Name: Gregory Ball Degree Programme: BA(Hons) Graphic Design 2013/14 Title: Have independent press publications influenced Generation Y consumers over the past five to ten years? 
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8267 Words
Acknowledgements
! I would like to thank all of the BA (Hons) Graphic Design programme team for their time and effort in helping me to complete this extended piece of critical writing. With special thanks to my dissertation tutor Simon Jones.
! I would also like to thank my Mum, Dad and Sister for their support throughout the three years of my degree.
! And finally a thank you to my friends for their constant encouragement and help. With special mentions to: Andrew Foster, Injy Rawlings, Jasmine Bartlett, Rebecca Draper, Molly McLagan, Martin O’Dea and Karla Stevens. 
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Contents
! Title Page Acknowledgements Contents List of Illustrations
! Introduction - Page 5 Chapter One - Generation Y - Page 7 Chapter Two - Independent Press - Page 11 Chapter Three - The Influence of Independent Press on Generation Y consumers - Page 18 Conclusion - Page 27
! Images - Page 29 Bibliography - Page 33 Appendix - Page 37
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List of Illustrations
! Figure 1 - The Sartorialist Blog Thesartorialist.com. 2014. The Sartorialist. [online] Available at: http:// www.thesartorialist.com/?s=men [Accessed: 13 Jan 2014].
! Figure 2.1 - Kinfolk Issue Nine Kinfolk. 2013. Kinfolk Issue Nine - Kinfolk. [online] Available at: http:// www.kinfolk.com/shop/magazine/kinfolk-issue-nine/ [Accessed: 13 Jan 2014].
! Figure 2.2 - Kinfolk Issue Nine - Double Page Spread Kinfolk. 2013. Kinfolk Issue Nine - Kinfolk. [online] Available at: http:// www.kinfolk.com/shop/magazine/kinfolk-issue-nine/ [Accessed: 13 Jan 2014].
! Figure 3 - Inventory Inventorymagazine.com. 2013. Inventory Magazine - Magazine. [online] Available at: http://www.inventorymagazine.com/magazine/ [Accessed: 13 Jan 2014]
! Figure 4 - Esquire Esquire. Inside the December Issue of Esquire - Esquire. [online] Available at: http:// www.esquire.co.uk/magazine/article/5182/in-the-december-issue-of-esquire/ [Accessed: 13 Jan 2014].
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Introduction
! This paper aims to investigate the rise of independent press, specifically lifestyle and menswear journals/magazines, and the changes they have had on the male consumer of Generation Y. (Generation Y is the phrase used to describe the generation with birth dates between 1980 and early 2000’s).
! The focus will be on the Generation Y male that is already somewhat interested in menswear and lifestyle, and the idea of an alternative lifestyle ideal, that focuses around quality, experiences, style, community and a sense of wellbeing. But exploring what makes this type of consumer who they are, investigating the role of independent press and brands, and also drawing conclusion as to wether this group of consumers is growing and also become more discerning in its taste and choices of consumption.
! Using publications such as: Kinfolk, Fantastic Man, Proper, GQ, Esquire and Inventory as case studies and/or points of reference the paper will analyse their journalistic tactics, the style of their writing and the motive of their readership in order to give answers to the papers title. Also using brands that are common in most if not all of these publications such as: YMC, Norse Projects, Folk, Oliver Spencer, Albam, and Universal Works, as points of reference to gauge different consumer opinion, and to see how the brands and their products are used differently within the publications. Through primary research the paper will gain knowledge from a broad range of generation Y consumers as to their likes, dislikes, what they read and why, their motives for the purchase of a product and the influence that social media communities have.
! The paper will also use independent Liverpool clothing store Weavers Door as a point of reference for a retailers view and to see how they engage with consumers and how independent press, brands and retailers all complement each other to influence and persuade the consumer. The paper will also explore the validity of assumptions on the
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identity of Generation Y and whether the perception within popular media is correct. This is important to the writing of the paper because there is not much existing theoretical texts on the subject matter, which leaves the subject without bone-fide theoretical foundation and/or opinion. So the paper will use what does exist and also advertising theory of theorist such as Vance Packard to inform its view on traditional consumption theories.
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Chapter One – Generation Y
Generation Y refers broadly to the generation born between the 1980’s and the early 2000’s. The phrase is thought to first originate from an article in Advertising Age on August 30th 1993 in which they described teenagers of the day, defining them as different from the previous generation, Generation X and the then aged eleven years or younger, as well as the teenagers of the upcoming ten years. The company has since used 1982 as the birth year of the generation. This generation is also referred to as The Millennials, Generation We, Global Generation, Generation Next and the Net Generation, most of these referring to the generation being the first that was brought up with the constant presence of the internet.
! With a population of 71Million and the largest generation since the Baby Boomers of 1946 to 1954, the high numbers reflecting that of their parent generation coming of age. “Generation Y kids are known as incredibly sophisticated, technology wise, immune to most traditional marketing and sales pitches…as they not only grew up with it all, they’ve seen it all and been exposed to it all since early childhood” (Schroer, 2013.) This seems extremely distinctive about Generation Y as a whole, maybe there are many within the generation that are perceived this way, but it seems a stretch to describe the whole of a generation in such a blanketed manner. There will always be consumers that will not embrace new technology, trusting what has been tried and tested to work before and thus still prone to traditional marketing and sales pitches. What may be a more accurate would be to describe Generation Y consumers is being more fluid and changeable in their perception of new technology and needing to be stimulated by different ways of marketing to traditional methods. But the generation are the first that are more immune to traditional marketing methods and sales pitches than previous generation due to its ever presence in their lives from such an early age. Due to this it carves out consumers that do not crave mainstream things anymore but want their pursuit of originality encourages them to find new things and become the person they believe they are personally and socially. “Gen Y members are much more racially and ethnically diverse and they are much more
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segmented as an audience aided by the rapid expansion in Cable TV channels, satellite radio, the Internet, e-zines, etc. Gen Y are less brand loyal and the speed of the Internet has led the cohort to be similarly flexible and changing in its fashion, style consciousness and where and how it is communicated with.” (Schroer, 2013.) The above quote from the Social Librarian Newsletter further outlines the ability of Generation Y not to commit to certain brands and the social consciousness it has about how they are perceived and how they can change the perception they want to put out without them feeling any sort of brand loyalty or disconnection from society. They are also defined as ambitious, leaders and have a self-belief in their ability to achieve their goals. This shows as the generation is seen to be at the forefront of business, technology and innovation. David Gauntlett seems to echo this opinion, in his book Media, Gender & Identity An Introduction, where he writes, “People today see themselves as complex but unified identities, seeking to be recognised both as interestingly distinctive and yet also part of the social community. Stories and narratives from the media offer individuals ways of framing and understanding experience, but do not prescribe or set limits of ways of living.” (Gauntlett, 2008, p.277). The most interesting part of Gauntlett’s writing is he says people do not “set limits on ways of living” and this is what Schroer is saying when he says that the Generation Y group are flexible within how they are communicated with, by not setting limits on ways of living this allows members of Generation Y to fluidly move between brands, opinions and the products they purchase without feeling any brand affiliation; this is something that may not have happened in previous generations and of course some of Generation Y wont fall into that but as a majority the consensus is thus.
! “Gen Y represented a societal shift of seismic proportions--a group of individuals who want more from their jobs and their careers than sitting behind a desk doing mindless busy work eight hours a day for the next 30-40 years. When they found themselves unemployed in the aftermath of the recession or otherwise looking for something more meaningful out of work, many opted to start their own businesses” (Graham, 2011). The rise in independent business over the last 5 to 10 years is no coincidence,
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the generation is more concerned with being successful and independent themselves instead of relying on other people to shape their career and lifestyles. The full validity of this has to be questioned, whilst it is clear to see that their has been a rise of independent business due to the generations aptness with new technologies and the advent of the internet has given consumers more knowledge than they have ever had. There will still parts of the generation who do not want to do this and want to follow what previous generations have proven to be successful. It boils down to personal preference, and on the whole the majority of Generation Y’s preferences somewhat differ to older generations due to the access of more knowledge upon which to base their opinions.
! In 2013, Generation Y’s males present a new type of marketing image as one that is concerned with their appearance and the outward expression of themselves, The Guardian recently ran an article entitled “The neo dandies: what does it take to be a modern man about town?” The article was about the change in the male consumer within the fashion and grooming sectors, “Men's shopping habits are changing at a phenomenal rate," says Darren Skey, menswear buying and merchandising manager at Harvey Nichols. "Historically, women shopped for their partners, but high-profile men such as David Beckham have made it acceptable for guys to express themselves through clothes and grooming. They now shop like women do, as a leisure activity, browsing and experimenting with different labels. They come in with pictures from blogs such as Tommy Ton on style.com and The Sartorialist, using those as a reference point to put together looks…We're also seeing customers enjoying a newfound confidence in less established brands such as Oliver Spencer, Christopher Shannon, Norse Projects and Blk Dnm, which are enjoying the benefits of this neodandyism.” (Kay, 2013). It is this form of independent press such as blogs like The Sartorialist (fig.1) that allow the Generation Y consumer access to media that previous generations would not have had access too. The phenomena that is Street Style where people can see what other people of the generation are wearing and how they are expressing themselves is an example of this. The validity of this is also
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questionable because it is only a small percentage of people that are represented within the generation on blogs such as this and it cannot be taken as an accurate representation of the generation as a whole, but is certainly valid to examine the possibility of whether there is an existence of a new sub-culture or niche within the generation.
! Within the article Adam Brown, the man behind menswear brand Orlebar Brown says, "We are style-led rather than fashion-led, and we've remained focused on the concept of providing a carefully edited, intelligent wardrobe that will take our customers from sun lounger to sundown. Every piece we sell is manufactured in Britain or Portugal from quality fabrics, and everything has to be as relevant in five or ten years' time as it is now. We're a small business, but we are doubling in size every year and we're doing the same business in the US as in the UK now: whether it's a 25year-old going to Ibiza or a 45-year-old heading to Mauritius, our clients have an evolved sense of style and a willingness to spend on products that have a credible provenance.� Across the board, retailers are reaping the benefits of Generation Y's profligacy. Selfridges in London has recently opened what it says is the world's biggest men's shoe department, with 15,000 square feet of retail space.� (Kay, 2013.)
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Chapter 2 – Independent Press
! In this context the paper is defining independent press as any published media by an individual or independent company, this could take the form of independent journals/ magazines, social media e.g. Twitter, Instagram and Facebook, blogs or any other internet or print based form of independent expression. The reason for this is that focusing on mainstream media from big corporations such as Conde Nast would only yield mass media, mainstream and fabricated results. The aim of the paper is to examine if independent press has influenced or manufactured a new type of consumer that differs from that of mainstream media.
! There seems to be some discrepancies and differences between what independent press, commonly referred to as small press, actually is. “A small press is a publisher with annual sales below a certain level. Commonly, in the United States, this is set at $50 million, after returns and discounts. Small presses are also defined as those that publish an average of fewer than 10 titles per year, though there are a few who manage to do more.
! The terms "small press", "indie publisher", and "independent press" are often used interchangeably, with "independent press" defined as publishers that are not part of large conglomerates or multinational corporations. Defined this way, these presses make up approximately half of the market share of the book publishing industry. Many small presses rely on specialisation in genre fiction, poetry, or limited-edition books or magazines, but there are also thousands that focus on niche non-fiction markets.” (Herman, 2007, p.131). It is also referred to by the term “Independent Media” this is defined as: Free from control in its actions, judgment. Not dependent on anything else for function, not reliant on the financial support of others and capable of acting for itself or on its own. In some respects both of these definitions are right. The definition of small press the most accurate, it specifically states that the the focus of small press is on limited edition books or small run magazines. It is this kind of small or independent press that has the greatest effect on Generation Y male
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consumers and therefore the focus of the paper. The definition of independent media is somewhat up for debate. In essence it is correct that the vast majority of small independent publishers and the outputs they provide are free from government influence but whether they are free from corporate interest is the issue. They are less susceptible corporate influences than larger magazines such as GQ or Esquire but they are influenced by smaller independent companies, particularly independent menswear shops and labels. Additionally they are selling their product or output for a profit; which perpetuates company growth and monetary gain.
A far more accurate definition of independent press would be, “Any words, images, video or audio published into the public domain by an individual, collection of people or a independently run business (that is free from influences such as boards of directors, or investors)” if independent press is defined this way, the focus is on what independent press or media actually is. It means that an individuals opinion on user generated platform such as Twitter and Instagram can be viewed as independent press, which is exactly what it is. This allows the exploration of the independent influences on Generation Y consumers from a much wider stand point and promote a more complete look into how they all work together to manufacture and influence consumers.
! Kinfolk (Fig. 2.1 & 2.2) is a perfect example for this paper as it plays to a somewhat ideal lifestyle. Published in Canada and based in Portland, Oregon, they sum themselves up as “Kinfolk magazine is a quarterly, 144-page, ad-free print magazine that collects ideas from a growing international community of artists, writers, designers, photographers, cooks and others who are interested in creating small gatherings and finding new things to make and do.” (Kinfolk, 2014). This focus on good living is something that draws publications of this ilk together, it is something that appeals to the consumer and makes them want to read, it presents an alternative lifestyle that they try to obtain and draws them away from the distractions of their actual lives. This is like any other form of marketing the major difference is, it does this in a way that is different to mainstream marketing and mainstream publications
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because it is obtainable, you could effectively achieve the life they write about. It features what are considered to be real people doing real things such as jobs that are considered relatable like being a chef, a creative or restauranteur, again this is within a niche of a generation as it is too vast to pin down a whole generation in such a fashion when society is so diverse, but there needs to be some context to evaluate against and compare with what is considered an unobtainable style of live such as the mainstream medias focus on celebrities and their extravagant and fantastical lifestyles and jobs such as being a actor or famous footballer.
! There is also the design aspect of these publications, which are beautifully designed and present themselves as pieces of design as well as magazines, this also attracts a somewhat different consumer than a mainstream magazine would; a consumer that appreciates and notices that it has been consciously designed differently to what is already out there. This target market defines itself by possibly way of default because of what the publication looks like, twenty to thirty somethings within a creative background, with a good knowledge of popular culture, who enjoy socialising and living well. This profile is backed up by the editor of Kinfolk, Nathan Williams, when he says, "There seemed to be a gap in entertaining resources that resonated with us — that offered entertainment ideas that worked for us,” and “"We offer options of things to do on weekends, other than going to clubs and bars," he says. "There's a new domestication that is coming back. People [in Kinfolk's demographic] are forced to create family or community in a distant location. We are riding along with that.” (Warchol/Williams, 2012). The conclusion could be drawn that this demographic seem to be in opposition to mass culture and not in coexistence to it, but there are always different facets of society that view and believe in different ways of living but still manage to exist in a cohesive manner. It is societies openness and acceptance of difference that allows the existence of different sub-cultures and opinions. So it would be wrong to draw the conclusion that this demographic appears to be of an unequal standing to rest of society, more just believe in a different way of life, but in with condescension on others opinions.
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Another major point of difference between the independent press and mainstream media that the paper will discuss here is that they are mostly ‘eye-candy magazines’, that take away from the mainstream publications that tell you how to, what to, and when to do things. This is in the context of the mainstreams presentation of celebrity and what is presented in the mainstream media as normal sometimes making the reader think and feel somewhat inadequate. “The danger of such magazines is that their focus on shaving creams, sexual performance, and well-toned abs may create a men’s culture as warped and obsessive as women’s mass culture” (Fourie, 2008, p. 323). The independent press’ decision to not use these tactics is a intentional one, again looking at Kinfolk, contributor Sarah Winward says, “Kinfolk is about an "open-minded, effortless, easy life." "It promotes a lifestyle rather than being a decorating magazine,” (Sarah Winward, 2012). As far as the design is concerned she says, “Kinfolk” is about aesthetics and not about information.” (Warchol/Winward, 2012). Further Samir Husni, Director of the Magazine Innovation Centre at the University of Mississippi and a magazine consultant says of magazines such as Kinfolk these are, “eye candy magazines…We are seeing a slew of these visually driven kind of publications — they warm your heart and make you feel good,” (Warchol/Husni, 2012). “It’s fluffy, a marshmallow.” (Warchol/Husni, 2012). The marshmallow metaphor may not be as throwaway as intended, more the perfect way to describe publications like this. Opposed to mainstream magazines such as GQ and Esquire presenting a celebrity superstar in a suit that perfectly accentuates a muscular physique that is presented in the way that society is to take that as what everyone should look like, and often provides a negative feeling for the majority who are not like that nor want to be like that. A fluffy marshmallow evokes memories of friends, social gatherings, campfires, meaningful activities and general nice things, which is exactly what Kinfolk is and the sort of laid-back lifestyle that the target Generation Y consumers what and desire. Contributor Matt Walker says, “There is a younger generation that is looking for something," he says. "People want to slow down and find meaningful activities. You don't have to overdo parties, you just have to get together.” (Warchol/Walker, 2012).
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In contrast if you look at menswear and lifestyle magazine Esquire (Fig. 4), you see a totally different aspect on life and style of publication. Esquire is one of the most famous mainstream menswear publications, featuring articles on style, gear, food & drink, women and culture. While the articles within Esquire are now written in quite a tongue-in-cheek and light hearted manor, a change that has been welcomed since 2003 when Jeremy Langmead took over as editor at British Esquire, now Editor-InChief at luxe menswear retailer Mr.Porter and soon to be Head of Content at famous auction house Christies, it had brought the magazine away from archaic journalism that focused on the hard-nosed view of the passive woman and the active man. While some of this still remains the prime focus, Esquire has been re-aligned to a younger and different consumer the, Generation Y male.
! The publication still focuses on big celebrity features to pull in the mainstream crowd with previous cover stars including the likes of David Beckham, Andy Murray and Gerard Butler. And it still features a lot of mainstream advertising from brands such as Dolce and Gabbana, Emporio Armani and the likes of BMW and AUDI. It focuses more on the materialistic values of things and the perceived status this the consumer. It highlights how these things can improve lifestyle, and appeal to women, in many of the same ways mainstream advertising does. In comparison to the likes of Kinfolk who focus on the stories and memories that can be generated as a primary focus and then the goods or materialistic objects as a secondary focus. Independent menswear magazine Fantastic Man is the perfect example to compare with Esquire, described as “a semi-annual men's fashion magazine which was launched in 2005. It presents men's fashion by detailed interviews with male celebrities and intellectuals from many different backgrounds.” (Seidler, 2009). It primarily uses celebrities as the main focus for cover features, with past stars being David Beckham, Ewan McGregor and Tom Ford. But it pulls in a somewhat different audience to Esquire due to its design and writing style, “known for the quality of its writing and its arch, sometimes ironic, editorial voice.” (D&AD, 2008). In a review for the San Francisco Chronicle journalist Arron Britt described it as, “...the best fashion mag out there ... Fashionforward, clever, deeply engaged with the fashion world, ... Fantastic Man is better
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designed, better photographed and rafts more stylish than the competition.” (Britt, 2009).
! Whilst articles in Esquire now focus on more of a tongue-in-cheek style of writing, one of the stories in the most recent edition and online being defined as Culture News & Advice, the article titled “How to have sex at your in-laws - Graham Wray on how to have some festive fun without ruining Christmas for the family” (Wray, 2013). The article illustrates the tongue-in-cheek style of writing that is becoming widely adopted by likes of Esquire. For example snippets of advice within the article including, “DO check the proximity of the headboard to the wall…DO check for squeaky floorboards if forced to sleep in separate rooms, so as not to alert the in-laws to your furtive liaisons.” and “DON’T forget that, due to prostate conditions, men of a certain age make frequent trips to the toilet during the night.” (Wray, 2013). This is a very different style of writing to that seen in Kinfolk and independent menswear publication Fantastic Man.
! There are comparisons between the three to be drawn: they all aim at the same age range and target demographic, the topics covered do not differ that much at all, and they each have their place in the market. But the differences between the three are drastic and what set them apart and what appeals to the emerging Generation Y consumer. Esquire is a much more mainstream publication appealing to the consumer who is slightly concerned by their appearance but enjoys socialising in a more formal setting and is likely to have a career in office work. The target demographic for Fantastic Man may not differ so much from Esquire certainly the age range and careers of the demographic can be the same but it is the design, production and beauty of the physical publication that pulls in a new facet of the market the male that is concerned with appearance, but also a lot more engrained in culture and has an appreciation of design and art. This is also a reader that wants to better his intellect. The reader of Fantastic Man is the type of reader that would supplement his reading about menswear with an edition of Kinfolk to give him a well rounded lifestyle, food and drink and experiences.
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! Generation Y males are sometimes more immune to traditional marketing tactics than males in previous generations and this is because, “masculine ideals of absolute toughness, stubborn self-reliance and emotional silence have been shaken by a new emphasis on men’s emotion, need for advice and the problems of masculinity.” (Gauntlett, 2008, p. 279). This is a problem for traditional mainstream magazines such as Esquire because they still try to play somewhat to the idea of the toughness and traditional image of masculinity through the objectification of perceived male and female perfection and the normalisation of a look within the media that is perceived to be what everybody should be striving for. Whereas within independent publications such as Kinfolk and Fantastic Man they don't play to this perceived image of ‘normal’ but they focus on stories about the people they feature which creates a new type of marketing angle. Fantastic Man is particularly interesting in the way they do this because whilst they may sometimes feature the same persons as Esquire they do it in a way that wouldn't be focused on how good they look in this seasons Armarni tailoring range, but for example how they have progressed to where they are in their careers, this creates a different motivation for the reader. It could also be argued that it doesn't create a different motivation for the reader, it just directs the feeling of inadequacy or envy to a different part of their lives. It doesn't make them feel envious of a body image but of another aspect of this persons live. And thus uses exactly the same techniques as mass media but deployed in a different, in this case it is the readers choice which they feel more comfortable reading.
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Chapter 3 - The Influence of Independent Press on Generation Y consumers
! The relationship between a consumer and a product is viewed as an involvement of interaction between the individual and the product or object. The more involvement between the consumer and the product, the more a part of life it becomes and the higher the involvement the greater relevance to the consumer. Thus the more of a relationship marketeers, journalists or purveyors of product can conjure up and the more intense involvement for the consumer will effectively lead to more success for the product.
! This is where magazines like Inventory (fig. 3) market their product well by focusing on the lifestyle they create through the stories and content of their publication they convey a lifestyle and self-image that appeals to consumers, especially consumers that are after an alternate lifestyle or original identity, it taps into the psyche of people who aspire to be like that and can see some of themselves in the content of the magazine. This has been happening for decades, looking at media and advertising theorist Vance Packard you can see how this tactic is used for a whole range of different products, he writes about what he calls Self-Images for Everybody, in which he uses cigarette brand loyalty as an example but, the theory of this subconscious salesman can be applied to any situation, “The subconscious salesmen, in grouping for better hooks, deployed in several directions. One direction they began exploring in a really major way was the modelling of images; the creation of distinctive, highly appealing “personalities for products that were essentially indistinctive. The aim was to build images that would arise before our “inner eye” at the mere mention of the product’s name, once we had been properly conditioned. Thus they would trigger our action in a competitive sales situation.” (Packard, 2007). This is extremely interesting in regard to Generation Y consumers; because of the presence of mainstream marketing and media in there lives from the early stages they are more aware of the creation of these images and the conditioning they are being subjected to by mainstream media, this opinion is reflected in a research survey by Luxe Avenue, “Because they were hugely exposed to commercials during their childhood, Millennials are very familiar with
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marketing and branding and can detect ‘false’ marketing messages, namely global messages that are not directly connected with their experiences, their friends or anything touching or gratifying them instantly.” (Avenue, 2012, p.3). Referring to the first chapter of this paper, when talking about the generation in such a blanket way it is hard to take this as fully accurate to describe the generation as a whole, but what the quote tries to illustrate is the generations greater knowledge and inform about marketing messages and sales pitches oppose to older generations, perhaps not the generation immediately before them, but generations further back this almost certainly has relevance as a statement. This allows Generation Y consumers the opportunity to ignore or choose what they feel fits into who they are and what they are about; choosing what images and views they want to be subject to and believe in.
! Print advertising can be more significant on the human psyche because they are “repeatedly shown the same message.” (Fourie, 2008, p. 323). This means that the subconscious salesman as mentioned by Vance Packard earlier in the paper is engaged on many different levels and in many different places. “Most advertisements rely heavily on visual elements because they are easier to decode. Such images operate on a subliminal level.” (Fourie, 2008, p. 323). This use of visual elements is consistent across all aspects of mass media including independent press because it is the simplest form of creating a connection with the consumer. “Advertising is effective because individuals believe they are immune to the images shown in the media. Individuals may believe that they do not buy a specific brand because of advertisements, but research suggests that we buy not only the product but the image, too, regardless of our conviction that we are immune to advertising’s lure.” This is by far the most interesting aspect of examining mass marketing tactics in relation to Generation Y and previous Generations. It may be that the combination of traditional mass media tactics and the emerging tactics of new media (creating authenticity and trust within brands through stories) make Generation Y consumers the easiest to market to because of there concern, more than other generations, with the stories of brands, products and experiences, and also they subconsciously pick up on mass media marketing. It could also be argued that this just gives them more knowledge to decipher marketing ploys
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even more than they already could as a result of there subjection to them from the early stages of their lives.
! Consumers that are interested in an original identity or alternative lifestyle could be more susceptible to persuasion, as they are more immediately taken in by images and media that sells this difference as they stand out against the mainstream media. This is what has perpetuated the growth in independent publications especially within the lifestyle and menswear markets, because as Packard says its all about creating an image or lifestyle to believe in, and also because men are viewed as vulnerable consumers not able to make choices for themselves when it comes to fashion and image, but this allowance and the ability to figure out marketing ploys and choose what you want to listen to and align yourself with, gives the consumer a confidence in what they want to believe in. Then when you get more and more involved in reading for example, Inventory which is about menswear, lifestyle and brands, it focuses on the stories of these brands or the lifestyle of their owners, designers or creative directors, this creates a trust and a following within brands when a consumer knows there is substance and a truth to the brand. This focus on believability is crucial to loyal Gen Y consumers because there word of mouth, aptness and presence on social media platforms creates communities of like minded people and acts as marketing for these brands creating bigger and bigger communities. This new type of journalistic and marketing approach of focusing on stories has had a direct influence on creating these communities because of the publications themselves having a big presence on social media channels. This is reinforced by an article on psycologytoday.com by Nathalie Nahai whom writes, “The emerging Generation Y consumer comes in the consumer that is much more concerned with experience, values and personality‌ Perhaps unsurprisingly, this group are generally very distrustful of mainstream media, and cautious of their personal safety - which may explain why earned media such as word-of-mouth, peer reviews and testimonials, play such a large role in their purchasing process.â€? (Nahai, 2013).
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Now this consumer has been carved out by the publications, brands and communities on social media they want to have involvement with products. In relation to a Generation Y consumers interested in mens fashion the important factors can be the story of the brand, quality of the garment and the production of the garment. With Generation Y consumers wiling to spent more on product, these tend to be luxury brands and this also has the added feeling of well being for the consumer when they know they have purchased something thats not what you would find in a mainstream high street chain. “The millennial epoch, composed of those born between 1980 and 2000, is the fastest-growing demographic of those who purchase luxury goods. Consumers of this generation increased spending on premium fashion and services by 33% in 2011” (Krause, 2012).
! A prime example of retailers getting onto this point is Liberty of London, they pride themselves on the service and the feeling of the product being something special, manager of the store Lee says, “It needs to look nice, not like fish and chips…if somebody wants a ribbon then put a ribbon on”. He also speaks about service saying, “Its a service that you get from a person thats talking to you about it - does it look great? Do you feel great in it? Then when you've got the product its how its wrapped, you cant just throw it in a bag, you've got to wrap it to perfection and then you're walking out with pride.” This is again the feeling of well being about a product and the difference between the purchase of mundane high street clothing and something a bit more unique. The consumer now is willing to spend more for an added feeling other than just they've bought new things or they own something new. He adds, “When you get home, you open it again, you know. It’s all part of that experience, then you put it on.” This experiential experience is something that builds a trust between a consumer and a brand or retailer and as previously mentioned this is something that the Generation Y consumer really craves for.
! Consumer research also shows that 63% of Generation Y own or are willing to buy premium premium product, whilst only 36% stick to high street brands only, this confirms that there is an emerging and somewhat existing Generation Y consumer
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more concerned with the type of product they purchase. One Generation Y consumer when asked what makes him purchase these brands and shop at these shops says, “Quality of items. A feeling of ownership, you pay more because you see it as an investment that will last you for years, rather buying something for a third of the price that will only last a few months. You also pay for the brand protection, e.g Norse Projects will protect the brand as well as it's customers by only selling to shops like Weavers Door and Oi Polloi.” (MacBryde, 2014). In regard to why he is willing to pay more for these products he says, “I'd just say if you like to look after yourself you spend that extra bit of money. But most of all ownership, you can buy a pair of expensive boots or whatever for double/triple the price of mainstream high street shops like Topman, and they last you for years, so its an investment.” (MacBryde, 2014).
! 50% of the consumers surveyed also said that they read independent publications (such as Kinfolk and Fantastic Man) showing that there is certainly a growing interest in independent press, but the most interesting statistic is that 100% of the consumers that said they read these publications say that they influence the products they buy and where they buy them from. This is an outstandingly high number, which indefinitely shows that the influence of these independent publications on consumers purchasing habits is huge. Even more interesting is the 50% of consumers who said they read mainstream media (such as GQ and Esquire) only 50% said that they have an influence on the products they buy. This shows that the focus on experience, stories and trust that is built by the style and design of these independent publications is much more effective than the techniques used by mainstream media and advertising.
! Taking social media as a force, particularly Instagram, in the growth of the Generation Y menswear consumer you can see how the community grows by way of searching for things you like, you start to pick up on people and then you look at who they follow and look at; then friends join in and after a while you end up seeing that a lot of the same people follow each other and are talking about the same things and this is exactly what grows communities interested in the same things and has a direct
!22
influence on purchasing of certain products, the shopping at certain shops and the sometimes cult following of brands.
! Out of the consumers surveyed that said they follow premium or independent menswear brands, 57% of them had at least one retailer they shop at in common, with the most common retailers also being independent retailers. This is also a growing trend within this group of consumer, the supporting of independent retail as well as independent brands and press. This leads to a build local capitalism within certain areas, especially independent menswear retail in an interview with blogger Buckets and Spades manager of Weavers Door, an independent menswear and lifestyle store in Liverpool’s Cavern Walks, Lee Fleming says, “I definitely find men are more concerned about their appearance and clothing choices. Quality is always at the forefront for us, everyone is a lot more 'clued up' and therefore are careful and their decisions are well considered.” (Fleming, 2013). This shows again that there is a consumer that is becoming more concerned with quality and becoming more clued up and confident in what to buy and where to buy it. When asked about being so close to the main high street traders in Liverpool and the reaction from the public Lee says, “Weavers Door is tucked away on Harrington Street, it's not too far away from the main trading streets but we have definitely found we've become a destination store. Our customers enjoy the notion that our brand mix is unique to Weavers Door, every garment hanging on a rail is well considered. Our regulars are key to our business, we know everyone personally and appreciate their ongoing support since we opened. I believe they enjoy Weavers Door for more than the clothing, we work very hard as a small team to create a experience for our customers, from our customer service, product knowledge and in store events.” (Fleming, 2013). Here he talks about the considered nature of their product selection and how the consumer appreciates this, and this backs up what the paper has said throughout about the Generation Y consumer. But most importantly Lee says that his customers enjoy Weavers Door for more than just the clothing, they enjoy it for the experience, service and event the store puts on. As established previously in the paper it is known that experience and trust is crucial to the Generation Y consumer,
!23
and this further backs this up. The experience and events also help build a community of like minded people which adds to the growth in the support of independent retail and local capitalism. “Another indie capitalism characteristic is a heightened meaning embedded in materials and products. Sharing really good stuff is valued…The entire notion of brand is upended in indie capitalism, superseded by the community surrounding the creation of a product or service. Authenticity is the “brand” in many cases.” (Naussbaum, 2011).
! What is interesting about Weavers Door is that they have a massive focus on the community of their customers, they have links with other Liverpool independents within all types of industries, this again promotes local capitalism and allows independents to thrive, in a weakening economy that is seeing many mainstream retailers go out of business, based on community, honesty and authenticity. Weavers Door also have there own independent journal aptly named The Weavers Door Journal (fig. 3), when asked about the links to other independents Lee sights the journal as being a driving force behind the building of these links and expanding of the community they are creating, “Liverpool is definitely seeing a change in the city, where independents are realising they are unique, but by connecting with each other the independent way of living becomes more visible. We are fortunate to have close relationships with other independents such as Bold Street Coffee, Camp & Furnace, Santa Chupitos and Berry & Rye. The Weavers Door Journal has a direct influence to these formed relationships with the local community.” (Fleming, 2013). The Weavers Door Journal like many other independent publications it focuses on local happenings and stories about the brands and products that the store stocks. Produced by the Weavers Door team themselves, collaborating with other independent retailers and designers in the Liverpool area. The team is passionate about menswear and good quality related goods, they sum up the shop and the journal as,
! !24
“Weavers Door is a collective aim to promote freedom of mind, seeking style over fashion and quality over quantity. Every item is carefully considered, the cloth, the cut and the final stitch with each aspect is vital to each garment. A maverick approach to all things cool. Born from a desire to offer the finest menswear apparel and related products, our aim is to continue to strive for the best and nothing less. In a world swamped with poor quality goods, we can only survive if we seek to inspire and be inspired. Fashion is a fickle world and one we treat with an air of caution. A truly great item is beyond fashion it becomes part of you, a trusted friend. A great jacket is a comrade in arms for many years, a great pair of jeans a second skin, a fine pair of shoes will walk with you on many journeys. We Champion the “True Brands”, the Mavericks who lead the way and break the rules who lead not follow. Their authenticity and quality is sometimes overlooked but never diminished and continues to excite us long after the initial conception. So along with you we continue to search and discover, all which is truly great in menswear.” (Weavers Door, 2012).
! In this statement by Weavers Door they express the idea of everything being an extension of the self, and the community aspect of everyone being in together is a sort of quest to find the best and greatest brands and products. This is something that is extremely important to the Generation Y consumer, the idea that by supporting this store you are buying much more than a shirt or pair of jeans, you are buying into a philosophy, a community and a lifestyle. This added value is what appeals to todays consumer oppose to mainstream stores who focus on a quick turnover of product and don't place so much focus on customer, the following they gain is from the disposable often cheap nature of their product. The journal that they produce furthers this philosophy through its content and execution, from the art direction to the layout and design of the publication it is, along with many independent publications, effortlessly cool. Mathew Walkerdine, of independent bookshop Good Press Gallery in Glasgow, when asked about the rise in independent publications in recent years says, “We don't really stock that many at Good Press for a number of reasons. To me, many periodicals and magazines feel a little bit too style over substance and like a flash in
!25
the pan.� (Walkerdine, 2014). This is interesting and probably somewhat true as standalone items they are heavily focused on being stylish, but he fails to realise the significance of them in building a community and marketing products in a different way and this is where they gain their substance. One of the articles in the Weavers Door journal entitled “The History of the Shirt� on its own would not offer much substance and just be filling the pages within a stylish publication; but if factoring in the community readership and the ability to provide knowledge but then in turn market the product as well the substance is absolutely there, and the consumer can see that.
!
!26
Conclusion
! On conclusion the paper has drawn the view that there are three main factors in how independent press has influenced and ultimately manufactured a new form of Generation Y consumer. These being the production and rise in popularity of independent magazines and journals, the community these have produced and the influence of that community on the purchasing habits of a niche Generation Y male consumer.
! Some Generation Y males are now far more interested in the stories about people involved with brands and this has been projected by the independent publications. The authenticity of brand has become its most powerful marketing tool in relation to the Generation Y consumer. This has allowed certain brands to differentiate themselves from the mainstream by the focus on quality, origins of products and the promise of being involved in something bigger than just the purchasing of new products. This promise being the community the consumer now becomes a part of and the platform this gives to grow, share and talk about the interests that they have. Looking at social media platform, Instagram has an example, the allowance the consumer has to use such an immediate medium such as photography to share what they are into and discuss this with like minded people is a powerful thing. It grows the community of people from being a local community surrounding a shop like Weavers Door for example into a much bigger possibly global community of people all influenced and into the same things.
! The popularity of independent publications is the main influential factor, they have managed to utilise a niche within the publishing and consumer market to its fullest potential focusing on the idea of an alternative lifestyle, the production of a community of like minded people sharing and discussing these publications through new mediums such as social media. Particularly in the menswear consumer and the expression that social media allows them, as previously mentioned, using Instagram as an example where photography is used to share and show a group of people what
!27
they are interested in and purchasing, this has had a massive effect on growing the community of people interested in independent product.
! Weavers Door is the perfect example to illustrate this process of the niche Generation Y consumer. Setting themselves apart from the mainstream competition as a store that doesn't just focus on the providing of products but creates a community by the way they curate their products, put on events and have their own journal in which they can promote their products and that of other independent business. The Weavers Door journal uses the three main factors the paper has discovered are key to influencing the consumer: independent press, the manufacture of a community or sub-culture and then the consumer purchasing product. It uses the articles to explore the products and create trust within the brand of Weavers Door and also the brands that the store stocks, this then has a direct influence on the community by giving the consumer something to lock onto and interact with, increasing the involvement with the products and as explained in Chapter 3 this is a influential contributor to consumer purchasing.
! This quote from Nathalie Nahai surmises the papers opinion on influencing Generation Y consumers, “If you’re serious about engaging Gen Y consumers, you have to give them an experience they’ll want to share. By focusing your efforts on experiential marketing, and incorporating a sense of social responsibility and an incentive to share your content with their peers, you’ll be able to connect with these consumers more deeply and help win their trust.” (Nahai, 2013).
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Images
! Fig 1
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Fig 2.1
! Fig 2.2
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Fig 3
!
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Fig 4
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Bibliography Books, Journals and E-Books
! Avenue, L. 2012. Generation Y and Luxury Brands: A high stake rendez-vous. [ebook] Luxe Avenue. p. 3. http://luxeavenue.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/ Generation-Y-and-Luxury-Brands-Luxe-Avenue-Publication.pdf [Accessed: 10 Jan 2014].
! Fourie, P. J. 2008. Media studies. Cape Town: Juta.
! Gauntlett, D. 2008. Media, gender and identity. London: Routledge.
! Herman, J. 2007. Jeff Herman's guide to book publishers, editors & literary agents 2007. Stockbridge, MA: Three Dog Press.
! Packard, V. 2007. The hidden persuaders. Brooklyn, N.Y.: Ig Pub.
! Schroer, W. J. 2013. Generations X,Y, Z and the Others...Social Librarian Newsletter WJ Schroer Company. [online] Available at: http://www.socialmarketing.org/ newsletter/features/generation3.htm [Accessed: 10 Jan 2014].
! Articles
! Britt, A. 2009. A quick guide to men's fashion media. San Francisco Chronical, 15th Feburary.
! Kay, K. 2013. The neo dandies: what does it take to be a modern man about town?. [online] 6th January. Available at: http://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2013/jan/06/ new-dandies-mens-fashion [Accessed: 10 Jan 2014].
! !33
Nahai, N. 2014. 5 Things You Need To Know About Marketing To Gen Y. [online] Available at: http://www.psychologytoday.com/blog/webs-influence/201305/5-thingsyou-need-know-about-marketing-gen-y [Accessed: 10 Jan 2014].
! Pike, M. 2013. Store Visit... Weavers Door Liverpool. Buckets & Spades, [blog] 20th September, Available at: http://www.bucketsandspadesblog.com/2013/09/storevisitweavers-door-liverpool.html [Accessed: 10 Jan 2014].
! Siedler, B. 2009. Dutch magazine celebrates menswear. [online] 18th January. Available at: http://www.nytimes.com/2009/01/18/style/18iht-rmag.1.19450110.html? _r=0 [Accessed: 10 Jan 2014].
! Warchol, G. 2014. Kinfolk magazine and its Utah contributors offer food, community and style to a generation of connected loners. [online] 23rd March. Available at: http://www.sltrib.com/sltrib/entertainment/53685783-81/kinfolk-says-magazinedigital.html.csp?page=1 [Accessed: 10 Jan 2014].
! Wray, G. 2013. How To Have Sex At Your In-Laws - Esquire. [online] Available at: http://www.esquire.co.uk/culture/article/5124/manual-how-to-have-sex-at-the-inlaws/ [Accessed: 10 Jan 2014].
! Websites
! Esquire. Inside the December Issue of Esquire - Esquire. [online] Available at: http:// www.esquire.co.uk/magazine/article/5182/in-the-december-issue-of-esquire/ [Accessed: 13 Jan 2014].
! Gibson, R. 2013. Generation Y Characteristics & Traits of the Millennial Generation. [online] Available at: http://www.generationy.com/characteristics/ [Accessed: 10 Jan 2014].
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Graham, S. 2011. The Entrepreneurial Renaissance And The Rise Of The Independent Workforce. [online] Available at: http://www.fastcompany.com/1766679/ entrepreneurial-renaissance-and-rise-independent-workforce [Accessed: 10 Jan 2014].
! Inventorymagazine.com. 2013. Inventory Magazine - Magazine. [online] Available at: http://www.inventorymagazine.com/magazine/ [Accessed: 13 Jan 2014].
! Kinfolk. 2013. Kinfolk | About Us. [online] Available at: http://www.kinfolk.com/ about-us/ [Accessed: 10 Jan 2014].
! Kinfolk. 2013. Kinfolk Issue Nine - Kinfolk. [online] Available at: http:// www.kinfolk.com/shop/magazine/kinfolk-issue-nine/ [Accessed: 13 Jan 2014].
! Krause, R. 2012. The Millennial Generation Is Spending More Money Than Ever On Luxury Goods. [online] Available at: http://www.thefrisky.com/2012-05-17/themillennial-generation-is-spending-more-money-than-ever-on-luxury-goods/ [Accessed: 10 Jan 2014].
! Nussbaum, B. 2011. 4 Reasons Why The Future Of Capitalism Is Homegrown, Small Scale, And Independent. [online] Available at: http://www.fastcodesign.com/ 1665567/4-reasons-why-the-future-of-capitalism-is-homegrown-small-scale-andindependent [Accessed: 10 Jan 2014].
! Thesartorialist.com. 2014. men ÂŤ Search Results ÂŤ The Sartorialist. [online] Available at: http://www.thesartorialist.com/?s=men [Accessed: 13 Jan 2014].
! Widrich, L. 2013. Social Media in 2013: User Demographics For Twitter, Facebook, Pinterest And Instagram - - The Buffer Blog. [online] Available at: http:// blog.bufferapp.com/social-media-in-2013-user-demographics-for-twitter-facebookpinterest-and-instagram. [Accessed: 10 Jan 2014].
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Broadcasts
! Liberty of London. 2014. [TV programme] Channel 4, channel 4, 16th December.
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Appendix
! Matthew Walkerdine, Good Press Gallery, Glasgow - Questionnaire
! Q: In your opinion what does the term independent press mean? A: An imprint releasing publications independently.
! Q: In the past 5 to 10 years have you seen a rise in the number of people interested in independent magazines or journals? A: Definitely. My personal interest in magazines and journals has become more skeptical I think, but there definitely are more around and therefore, I would assume more people buying them. We don't really stock that many at Good Press for a number of reasons. To me, many periodicals and magazines feel a little bit too style over substance and like a flash in the pan. From as business stand point, I can see why more and more magazines are being stocked in bookshops now, the turnover and returns policy with them must be alluring to have them in.
! Q: And if so, from what type of person has this been from? A: Probably all kinds of people. If you mean who is interested in magazines now, I would suggest that its the same as it has always been. If you're interested in bikes, you get a bike magazine. I think there has been a big rise in the interest in counter-culture as opposed to actual journals, and having magazines giving you a brief surface opinion or a 'slice' of what is happening right now, that will be of interest to people.
! Q: Do you think people prefer to read independent publications oppose to mass media publications such as GQ or Esquire, and if so why? A: Not really, that has nothing to do with the magazine, its to do with the person. Like I mentioned before, there are a high number of magazines on the market offering you an alternative lifestyle. It is much the same as GQ or Esquire, but being alternative is much more mainstream now. Also, people are currently wanting to support local independent stores and publishers and magazines are an easy entry point to this.
!37
Again, we don't sell that many magazines, so I can only really answer in terms of opinion.
! Q: What is your typical customer profile? A: We're a different set-up to your typical bookstore in our location, so we don't have a typical customer profile. We don't think of customers as 'profiled'. A magazine like GQ or Esquire would do that for you, we won’t.
! *Consumer answers denoted in red*
! Consumer Response 1
!
Q: Which if any of these magazines do you read?
! - Inventory - Proper - GQ - Fantastic Man - Kinfolk - Esquire - The Travel Almanac - Apartamento - None
! ! Q: What makes you buy a magazine or publication?
! - Products in it - The lifestyle that publication promotes - Design or presentation of the publication
! !38
Q: Do any of these publications influence the things you buy and/or where you shop?
! - Yes - No
! Q: Which, if any, of these shops do you buy from (instore or online)?
! - Oi Polloi - Weavers Door - Topman - The Hip Store - ASOS - End Clothing - H&M - Fat Bhudda - Goodhood - Mr Porter
! Q: Which, if any, of these brands do you follow or buy?
! - Folk - Oliver Spencer - Albam - Topman - Norse Projects - YMC - Shore Leave - Universal Works - None
! Q: What, if any, of these social networks do you use?
!39
! - Twitter - Facebook - Instagram
! Consumer Response 2
! Q: Which if any of these magazines do you read?
! - Inventory - Proper - GQ - Fantastic Man - Kinfolk - Esquire - The Travel Almanac - Apartamento - None
! ! Q: What makes you buy a magazine or publication?
! - Products in it - The lifestyle that publication promotes - Design or presentation of the publication
! Q: Do any of these publications influence the things you buy and/or where you shop?
! - Yes - No
! !40
Q: Which, if any, of these shops do you buy from (instore or online)?
! - Oi Polloi - Weavers Door - Topman - The Hip Store - ASOS - End Clothing - H&M - Fat Bhudda - Goodhood - Mr Porter
! Q: Which, if any, of these brands do you follow or buy?
! - Folk - Oliver Spencer - Albam - Topman - Norse Projects - YMC - Shore Leave - Universal Works - None
! Q: What, if any, of these social networks do you use?
! - Twitter - Facebook - Instagram
! !41
Consumer Response 3
! Q: Which if any of these magazines do you read?
! - Inventory - Proper - GQ - Fantastic Man - Kinfolk - Esquire - The Travel Almanac - Apartamento - None
! ! Q: What makes you buy a magazine or publication?
! - Products in it - The lifestyle that publication promotes - Design or presentation of the publication
! Q: Do any of these publications influence the things you buy and/or where you shop?
! - Yes - No
! Q: Which, if any, of these shops do you buy from (instore or online)?
! - Oi Polloi - Weavers Door - Topman
!42
- The Hip Store - ASOS - End Clothing - H&M - Fat Bhudda - Goodhood - Mr Porter
! Q: Which, if any, of these brands do you follow or buy?
! - Folk - Oliver Spencer - Albam - Topman - Norse Projects - YMC - Shore Leave - Universal Works - None
! Q: What, if any, of these social networks do you use?
! - Twitter - Facebook - Instagram
! Consumer Response 4
! Q: Which if any of these magazines do you read?
! - Inventory
!43
- Proper - GQ - Fantastic Man - Kinfolk - Esquire - The Travel Almanac - Apartamento - None
! ! Q: What makes you buy a magazine or publication?
! - Products in it - The lifestyle that publication promotes - Design or presentation of the publication
! Q: Do any of these publications influence the things you buy and/or where you shop?
! - Yes - No
! Q: Which, if any, of these shops do you buy from (instore or online)?
! - Oi Polloi - Weavers Door - Topman - The Hip Store - ASOS - End Clothing - H&M - Fat Bhudda
!44
- Goodhood - Mr Porter
! Q: Which, if any, of these brands do you follow or buy?
! - Folk - Oliver Spencer - Albam - Topman - Norse Projects - YMC - Shore Leave - Universal Works - None
! Q: What, if any, of these social networks do you use?
! - Twitter - Facebook - Instagram
! Consumer Response 5
! Q: Which if any of these magazines do you read?
! - Inventory - Proper - GQ - Fantastic Man - Kinfolk - Esquire
!45
- The Travel Almanac - Apartamento - None
! ! Q: What makes you buy a magazine or publication?
! - Products in it - The lifestyle that publication promotes - Design or presentation of the publication
! Q: Do any of these publications influence the things you buy and/or where you shop?
! - Yes - No
! Q: Which, if any, of these shops do you buy from (instore or online)?
! - Oi Polloi - Weavers Door - Topman - The Hip Store - ASOS - End Clothing - H&M - Fat Bhudda - Goodhood - Mr Porter
! Q: Which, if any, of these brands do you follow or buy?
! !46
- Folk - Oliver Spencer - Albam - Topman - Norse Projects - YMC - Shore Leave - Universal Works - None
! Q: What, if any, of these social networks do you use?
! - Twitter - Facebook - Instagram
! Consumer Response 6
! Q: Which if any of these magazines do you read?
! - Inventory - Proper - GQ - Fantastic Man - Kinfolk - Esquire - The Travel Almanac - Apartamento - None
! ! !47
Q: What makes you buy a magazine or publication?
! - Products in it - The lifestyle that publication promotes - Design or presentation of the publication
! ! Q: Do any of these publications influence the things you buy and/or where you shop?
! - Yes - No
! Q: Which, if any, of these shops do you buy from (instore or online)?
! - Oi Polloi - Weavers Door - Topman - The Hip Store - ASOS - End Clothing - H&M - Fat Bhudda - Goodhood - Mr Porter
! Q: Which, if any, of these brands do you follow or buy?
! - Folk - Oliver Spencer - Albam - Topman
!48
- Norse Projects - YMC - Shore Leave - Universal Works - None
! Q: What, if any, of these social networks do you use?
! - Twitter - Facebook - Instagram
! Consumer Response 7
! Q: Which if any of these magazines do you read?
! - Inventory - Proper - GQ - Fantastic Man - Kinfolk - Esquire - The Travel Almanac - Apartamento - None
! ! Q: What makes you buy a magazine or publication?
! - Products in it - The lifestyle that publication promotes
!49
- Design or presentation of the publication
! Q: Do any of these publications influence the things you buy and/or where you shop?
! - Yes - No
! Q: Which, if any, of these shops do you buy from (instore or online)?
! - Oi Polloi - Weavers Door - Topman - The Hip Store - ASOS - End Clothing - H&M - Fat Bhudda - Goodhood - Mr Porter
! Q: Which, if any, of these brands do you follow or buy?
! - Folk - Oliver Spencer - Albam - Topman - Norse Projects - YMC - Shore Leave - Universal Works - None
!50
! Q: What, if any, of these social networks do you use?
! - Twitter - Facebook - Instagram
! Consumer Response 8
! Q: Which if any of these magazines do you read?
! - Inventory - Proper - GQ - Fantastic Man - Kinfolk - Esquire - The Travel Almanac - Apartamento - None
! ! Q: What makes you buy a magazine or publication?
! - Products in it - The lifestyle that publication promotes - Design or presentation of the publication
! Q: Do any of these publications influence the things you buy and/or where you shop?
! - Yes
!51
- No
! Q: Which, if any, of these shops do you buy from (instore or online)?
! - Oi Polloi - Weavers Door - Topman - The Hip Store - ASOS - End Clothing - H&M - Fat Bhudda - Goodhood - Mr Porter
! Q: Which, if any, of these brands do you follow or buy?
! - Folk - Oliver Spencer - Albam - Topman - Norse Projects - YMC - Shore Leave - Universal Works - None
! Q: What, if any, of these social networks do you use?
! - Twitter - Facebook
!52
! Consumer Response 9
! Q: Which if any of these magazines do you read?
! - Inventory - Proper - GQ - Fantastic Man - Kinfolk - Esquire - The Travel Almanac - Apartamento - None
! ! Q: What makes you buy a magazine or publication?
! - Products in it - The lifestyle that publication promotes - Design or presentation of the publication
! Q: Do any of these publications influence the things you buy and/or where you shop?
! - Yes - No
! Q: Which, if any, of these shops do you buy from (instore or online)?
! - Oi Polloi
!53
- Weavers Door - Topman - The Hip Store - ASOS - End Clothing - H&M - Fat Bhudda - Goodhood - Mr Porter
! Q: Which, if any, of these brands do you follow or buy?
! - Folk - Oliver Spencer - Albam - Topman - Norse Projects - YMC - Shore Leave - Universal Works - None
! Q: What, if any, of these social networks do you use?
! - Twitter - Facebook - Instagram
! ! ! ! !54
! Consumer Response 10
! Q: Which if any of these magazines do you read?
! - Inventory - Proper - GQ - Fantastic Man - Kinfolk - Esquire - The Travel Almanac - Apartamento - None
! ! Q: What makes you buy a magazine or publication?
! - Products in it - The lifestyle that publication promotes - Design or presentation of the publication
! Q: Do any of these publications influence the things you buy and/or where you shop?
! - Yes - No
! Q: Which, if any, of these shops do you buy from (instore or online)?
! - Oi Polloi - Weavers Door
!55
- Topman - The Hip Store - ASOS - End Clothing - H&M - Fat Bhudda - Goodhood - Mr Porter
! Q: Which, if any, of these brands do you follow or buy?
! - Folk - Oliver Spencer - Albam - Topman - Norse Projects - YMC - Shore Leave - Universal Works - None
! Q: What, if any, of these social networks do you use?
! - Twitter - Facebook - Instagram
! Consumer Response 11
! Q: Which if any of these magazines do you read?
! !56
- Inventory - Proper - GQ - Fantastic Man - Kinfolk - Esquire - The Travel Almanac - Apartamento - None
! ! Q: What makes you buy a magazine or publication?
! - Products in it - The lifestyle that publication promotes - Design or presentation of the publication
! Q: Do any of these publications influence the things you buy and/or where you shop?
! - Yes - No
! Q: Which, if any, of these shops do you buy from (instore or online)?
! - Oi Polloi - Weavers Door - Topman - The Hip Store - ASOS - End Clothing - H&M
!57
- Fat Bhudda - Goodhood - Mr Porter
! Q: Which, if any, of these brands do you follow or buy?
! - Folk - Oliver Spencer - Albam - Topman - Norse Projects - YMC - Shore Leave - Universal Works - None
! Q: What, if any, of these social networks do you use?
! - Twitter - Facebook - Instagram
! ! ! !
!58
Consumer Interview - Oliver MacBryde, Liverpool. 2014.
! Q: What is it that makes you buy these brands or shop at these shops?
! A: Quality of items. Yes for a feeling of ownership, you pay more because you see it as like an investment that will last you for years, rather buying something for a third of the price that will only last a few months. You also pay for the brand protection, e.g Norse Projects will protect the brand as well as it's customers by only selling to shops like Weavers Door and Oi Polloi
! Q: Are you willing to pay a bit more for quality and the added feeling of owning something that not everybody has, and why?
! A: I'd just say if you like to look after yourself you spend that extra bit of money. And ownership, you can buy a pair of expensive boots or whatever for double/triple the price of Topman or other high street brands, and they last you for years, so its an investment.
!59