Fast Forward Weekly and SEE Magazine’s
Road Trip Guide
More than 140 Alberta events and attractions
Summer 2010 | free
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Rocky Mountain House National Historical Site
contents The cowboy trail Scenic journey through the foothills highlights pioneer spirit of the West . . . . . . . . . . . 2
a work of art Art Gallery of Alberta’s summer exhibits appeal to art lovers and pop culture fans . . . . . . . . 6
vulcan voyage Look below the Star Trek surface for a taste of true small-town charm. . . . . . . . . . . . 10
a walk through history Iron Horse Trail combines recreation, prairie history and Métis culture. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
wet and wild A rafting trip down the Kicking Horse River is not for the faint of heart. . . . . . . . . 22
Photo: Travel Alberta
Publisher: Ian Chiclo Jeff Holubitsky Editor: Maureen McNamee Layout: Kris Twyman Michael Nunweiler Contributors: Drew Anderson Jessica Brisson Jenny Feniak Mark Hopkins Andrew Mah Josh Marcellin Rene Mauthe Maurice Tougas Kari Watson Produced by: See Magazine and Fast Forward Weekly www.seemagazine.com www.ffwdweekly.com
Road trip guide Highlighting Alberta’s attractions and events — from wildlife to wild festivals. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 www.seemagazine.com
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Bar U Ranch National Historical Site, Longview
Ranchland along Hwy 22, between Lundbreck and Longview
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The call of the West Scenic Cowboy Trail celebrates ranching past and present Andrew Mah • Photos: TRAVEL Alberta
S
outhern Alberta is still widely referred to as “cowboy country.” It’s a term of endearment that evokes a sense of this land’s history: men on horseback with wide-brimmed hats to keep off sun and rain, the wide-open range stretching endlessly to all horizons, the pioneer spirit necessary to conquer an untamed land. To a degree that might surprise some, that spirit still lives on today. You can relive much of it by traversing the 700-kilometre stretch of highway called the Cowboy Trail. The trail winds along Highway 22 from Mayerthorpe, northwest of Edmonton,
back riding followed by campfire songs with black coffee, bacon and beans sounds like fun, then the Cowboy Trail is simply yahoo nirvana. “It’s one of the most spectacular sceneries in the world. It’s pretty magnificent to take it all in on a drive,” says David Campbell, programs co-ordinator at the Bar U Ranch near Longview, 80 kilometres south of Calgary. “There’s a lot of history and heritage along the Cowboy Trail.” Much of this heritage is encapsulated within the Bar U itself. At one time, this was one of the largest and most prosperous ranches in the world, with as many
It’s one of the most spectacular sceneries in the world. It’s pretty magnificent to take it all in on a drive. — David Campbell, Bar U Ranch
down to Pincher Creek, south of Calgary. It continues south on Highway 6 and east on Highway 5, taking in Waterton Park and ending at Cardston, just north of the Canada-U.S. border. The main draw of the Cowboy Trail is the scenery — the journey evokes that Old West sentiment “this is God’s country,” as the road skirts along the foothills with the majestic Rockies to the west, and endless, ravishing green and gold prairie fields to the east. Numerous towns with western-themed attractions populate the route. You’ll find dude ranches operated by smiling locals, ghost towns and swinging-door saloons, ranch-style resorts and tidy little museums commemorating relics of a bygone age. For those looking to learn about the area’s proud western roots, or if a day of horsewww.seemagazine.com
as 40,000 head of cattle, supplying beef throughout North America and Great Britain. It was also a temporary home to some of the Old West’s greatest icons, including Harry Longabaugh (the Sundance Kid), American painter Charlie Russell, and Canada’s most celebrated black cowboy, John Ware. Today, the headquarters of the ranch are preserved as a National Historic Site, offering visitors what Campbell calls a chance to experience “living history.” Here you can tour heritage buildings while watching and even trying your hand at actual ranching skills, like cattle handling, roping, saddle-making and blacksmithing. A popular activity is the evening roundup camp by the creek, complete with campfire, cook tent and cowboy interpreters telling tales Continued on page 4 3
while you’re there
Other stops worth checking out along the Cowboy Trail (distances given from Calgary/Edmonton as starting point): ROCKY MOUNTAIN HOUSE NATIONAL HISTORIC SITE (200/230 km) — Witness the reenactment of the fur trade and rugged voyageur life that helped open up the West at the site where the North West and Hudson’s Bay companies set up rival posts in 1799. MILLARVILLE (50/350 km) — Popular for its sprawling Saturday morning Farmers’ Market during summer and early fall. Also check out the 105th annual Millarville Races, a historic horse derby and family fun event held Canada Day in true western tradition. BROWN CREEK RANCH (160/460 km) — Experience life living in a log cabin on a family-run working Angus cattle ranch tucked in the rugged Porcupine Hills. FORT MACLEOD (295/595 km) — Jog east from Pincher Creek and visit the Fort Museum to learn how the Northwest Mounted Police tamed American whiskey traders and brought order to the Wild West. Also, check out Head Smashed in Buffalo Jump, a UNESCO World Heritage Site documenting the buffalo hunting culture of Aboriginal peoples, complete with drum and dance performances and tipi camping. WATERTON LAKES NATIONAL PARK (275/575 km) — The pristine beauty of wildlife, mountains and lakes meets charming B&Bs, lodges and hotels. Need we say more? REMINGTON CARRIAGE MUSEUM (310/610 km) — Located at the southern tip of the Cowboy Trail, giddy on up to the home of the largest collection of horse-drawn vehicles in North America.
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of a simpler way of life. Yet beyond the threads of history and family-oriented activities, Campbell believes that people are drawn to the Bar U by the quiet, the solace offered by wideopen spaces and uncomplicated surroundings. “It is a spiritual place,” he says. This may help explain the attraction of a place like Em-Te Town, located southwest of Edmonton near Alder Flats at the junction of Highway 13 and 22. It appears as an abandoned western frontier town, complete with jailhouse, church and one-room school. Visitors can explore the town, grab a drink or hot meal at the “ol’ saloon” and diner, or spend the weekend in a rustic cabin with cookstove (there’s also a 20th century motel for the less rustically inclined). According to Jan Henderson, who has worked at Em-Te Town for more than five years, the place is popular for weddings, family reunions and corporate retreats. It’s the kind of place where you can expect to see a half-dozen groomsmen posing in western garb and six-guns, with the bride and groom riding in at high noon on horseback. Yet beyond the potential for kitsch, Henderson believes, like Campbell, that people are drawn by the “open spaces.” “It’s very quiet here. It’s peaceful,” she says. Interestingly, a retired building contractor, Len Mohr, built Em-Te town, which bills itself as an authentic western frontier town, in the 1980s. Mohr decided to build a new house when his own across the creek was flooded one spring, and then, apparently, just kept on building. In the course of a decade, he had constructed an entire western town out of hewn logs and elbow grease. Although the timeline of the town doesn’t go much further back than the first episode of Family Ties, there is something of the western spirit in the singular resolve and maverick inspiration that would drive a man to build an entire town in an empty field. As well, the building of the town itself embodies the kind of community and co-operation that knit togethwww.ffwdweekly.com
er many homesteads during the settling of the West. Showing that these values live on, both the town’s school and church were built by “raisings,” with 60 or 70 people showing up with their hammers, handsaws, log peelers and teams of mules. Their reward wasn’t a paycheque or corporate shares in Em-Te Town stock — just an evening of food, drink and dance with one’s neighbours. Herein is the intangible appeal of these moments and places. In many ways, rural Alberta continues to define itself by the western values it has inherited. Drive along the Cowboy Trail and you’ll see more than history — ranching continues to be a dominant way of life here. Although many have traded in horses and mules for tractors and cars, you’ll still meet people who love the open land, exuding that quiet calm, can-do independence and friendly charm that give us city folk a solid hankering for the simple life. thecowboytrail.com
In the beautiful Solomon Valley near Jasper
Enjoy spa weekends, art workshops, trail riding, hiking, family gatherings and much more. Bed and Breakfast or Bale and Breakfast offered www.blackcatguestranch.ca 1 800 859 6840
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ART GALLERY OF ALBERTA, EDMONTON
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Art inside and out Art Gallery of Alberta’s eclectic exhibits will keep crowds coming Maurice Tougas • Photo: Robert Lemermeyer, 2010
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he new Art Gallery of Alberta is more than just what’s on the inside — the building itself is a work of art. The dazzling, $88-million gallery has, in just a few short months, become one of Edmonton’s signature buildings. And judging from the 40,000 or so people who have flocked to the gallery since it opened in January of this year, the public likes what it sees on the inside, too. Located in the heart of the arts and government core downtown, the glowing (literally) new AGA replaces the concrete bunker that was the Edmonton Art Gallery, which was designed in what was
of Goya, Degas and photographer Yousuf Karsh, but the AGA seems to have put together an eclectic mix that will draw huge crowds during the summer season. Alberta’s top artists will get their moment in the sun with the seventh Alberta Biennial of Contemporary Art, showcasing a cross-generational selection of 24 artists chosen by curator Richard Rhodes, editor of Canadian Art magazine. The exhibit will occupy all 6,000 square feet of the third-floor gallery space, and will include sculpture, photography, film, music and textiles. Also opening will be new work by Alberta’s Sandra Bromley, titled FIRE, an
The more you come, the more there should be to do. — Gilles Hébert, AGA executive director
appropriately called the “Brutalist” style. There is no doubt its replacement is a stunning building, a triumph of architecture and engineering. But like a smoking hot actress, you can only get by for so long on your looks. Content is what keeps people coming back, and the AGA is confident that its second series of exhibits will provide a mix that will please serious art lovers and fans of pop culture art alike — what AGA executive director Gilles Hébert calls “multiple points of entry.” Keeping the AGA relevant and exciting is one of Hébert’s challenges, and he and the AGA are up to it. “The more you come, the more there should be to do,” he says. It won’t be easy to follow the AGA’s opening exhibits, which featured works www.seemagazine.com
antiwar exhibit focusing on victims of violence from the Sierra Leone conflict. The AGA has established a permanent relationship with the National Gallery of Canada and, as a result, will always feature exhibits from its collection. The summerfall exhibit features works by the renowned M.C. Escher, from his “impossible architecture” series, including some of his most recognizable images. It opens June 19, along with Giovanni Battista Piranesi’s haunting architectural fantasies dating back to the 1700s. Another certain crowd-pleaser, The Art of Warner Bros. Cartoons traces the development of the studio’s cartoon stars — Bugs Bunny, Daffy Duck and a host of others — providing a step-by-step breakdown of Continued on page 9 7
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planning your visit
how classic cel animation was produced by the studio from 1935 to 1964. The surefire hit exhibition runs June 19 to October 11. Rounding out the summer exhibitions is Reframing a Nation, running June 26 to November 7. The exhibition will feature works from some of Canada’s most famous artists that explore the myths about our country, chosen from the collections of Canadian museums and from the AGA’s own collection. The AGA will also offer a number of programs for art fans of all ages. During Animation Week, Emmy Award-winning Gary Panter, head set designer for the TV show Pee Wee’s Playhouse, will speak on July 8. Refinery, the second AGA latenight art party, will be held on July 10 and be themed around the Warner Bros. exhibition and feature a DJ, projections, an interactive photography project and other multidisciplinary projects involving Alberta artists. youraga.ca
Newcomers to the gallery or visitors to Edmonton will find the AGA easy to get to using the newly expanded LRT. Just hop on a train and get off at Churchill Station downtown; there’s an underground entrance to the AGA in the station. If you’ve got the time, and a few dollars in your pocket, Zinc is a gorgeous restaurant and lounge that focuses on fresh Alberta ingredients fused with local artisan food products. Zinc is closed Mondays, but open for lunch and dinner the rest of the week, and Sunday for brunch. Admission to the AGA is $12 for adults, $8 for seniors and students, free for children under 6, and $26 for families. The AGA is open Tuesday to Friday from 11 a.m. to 7 p.m., Saturday and Sunday from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. The gallery will be open on Canada Day, the August Civic Holiday, and Labour Day.
Art and Design is enlightening. Any way you look at it. The Works 2010 * June 25 - July 7 * Downtown Edmonton * theworks.ab.ca
www.seemagazine.com
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Vulcan Tourism & Trek Station
Starship Enterprise FX6-1995-A, Vulcan
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A Trek to Vulcan Weekend reveals small-town charm below Star Trek surface Mark Hopkins • Photo: TRAVEL Alberta
“E
veryone thinks we’re Trekkies,” complains the teenage girl behind the counter at A&W. “We’re not all Trekkies.” It’s Saturday night and I’m in Vulcan, Alberta, a town of about 2,000 people located a one-and-a-half-hour drive southeast of Calgary. I’m at A&W because it’s after 7 p.m. and there aren’t many food options at this time of night. It’s either this or Subway, and I had Subway for lunch. Across the highway, silhouetted in the twilight, is the Vulcan Starship FX61995-A, a 9.5-metre-long replica of the USS Enterprise. Right behind it is a giant white spaceship: the Vulcan Tourism and
she asks. “What brings you to Vulcan?” The place is a Trekkie’s wet dream, full to the brim with Star Trek memorabilia along with a replica holodeck and an interactive virtual reality game. Tricia can tell a story about every piece of Trekdom in the Station, about the man who donated his action figure collection after he died, about the time Gene Roddenberry’s son came to visit. Back in 2007, the town gained international attention when it launched a bid to host the world première of the new Star Trek film, despite the fact that Vulcan doesn’t have a movie theatre. (The plan
Actually, I’ll tell you the time I liked Trekkies. I hauled the materials to build that spaceship off the highway. Made some money off that one. — Jim, resident of Vulcan
Trek Station. Unfortunately for the teenagers of Vulcan — and fortunately for the local economy — Star Trek isn’t going away any time soon. If anything, its presence is now greater than ever. The town’s name has nothing to do with Spock’s home planet — it was named after the Roman god of fire — but in 1993, a savvy group of Trek fans capitalized on the coincidence and hosted the first VulCON Star Trek Convention (the 17th event takes place this year from June 11 to 13). The starship replica went up in 1995, and the tourism station appeared in 1998. Earlier in the day, I wandered into the Trek Station and was immediately greeted by Tricia, whose giddy enthusiasm for visitors is contagious. “Where are you from?” www.seemagazine.com
was to retro-fit the high school gymnasium.) The bid was unsuccessful, although Leonard Nimoy himself supported their efforts. This kick-started a relationship with the actor and, on April 23, 2010, Nimoy made a visit. He got a key to the town, and Vulcan became the official Star Trek capital of Canada. The town is saturated with Trek. There are Star Trek murals, a Star Trek cancellation stamp at the post office, even a Star Trek tombstone in the cemetery. But that’s just the surface, a tourist-y tinfoil layer over the town. Peel it back, and you’ll find Vulcan’s true charm. I’m staying at the Vulcan Hotel, built over a century ago in the town of Frank. After the Frank Slide of 1903, the owner Continued on page 12 11
while you’re there
Get The Gear Before You Go...
www.calgaryoutdoorcentre.ca (403) 220-5038 12 • 2010 Road Trip Guide
VULCAN TOURISM AND TREK STATION Follow the Vulcan Starship to the visitor information centre, which is a destination in itself. 403-4852994, vulcantourism.com THE VULCAN HOTEL The theme rooms aren’t as exotic as Edmonton’s Fantasyland Hotel, but they have plenty of character. 403-485-2386 VULCAN AND DISTRICT MUSEUM Learn about Vulcan’s history — as a town, not a planet. 403-485-2168 VULCON17 2010 VulCON17: Spock Days / Galaxyfest 2010, the town’s 17th annual Star Trek Convention from June 11 to 13, will bring Trekkies from far and wide to Vulcan. The event features celebrity guest Tim Russ, a community barbecue, a slo-pitch tournament, beer gardens, fireworks, a parade and more. vulcantourism.com
decided to have the building torn down and relocated. The hotel reopened in 1912 in its current Vulcan location, where it operates under the ownership of Faye Scheideman. Faye runs a tight ship. There’s no swearing in the hotel bar; if you can’t resist the urge to curse, substitute the naughty word with “strawberry.” “It all depends on the tone,” she explains. I give it a try, uttering “strawberry” with a nasty edge to my voice. “That’s getting pretty serious,” she says. When Faye took over the hotel several years ago, she decided to give it a hook: each room is decorated with a unique theme. Since I’m the only guest aside from a day-sleeping oil worker, Faye gives me the royal tour. “Once I got through all the provinces and territories, I still had a few rooms left,” says Faye, unlocking another door. “Everyone told me I needed a John Deere room, so here we are.” There’s a sports room, a www.ffwdweekly.com
Harley-Davidson room, two safari rooms and the pièce de résistance: a Star Trek room. I’m staying in the Alberta Room, covered in old Calgary Stampede posters and pictures of horses. Apparently, singer-songwriter Corb Lund and his entourage once stayed here. “He was a really nice man,” Faye remembers. The Vulcan Hotel is currently up for sale, so if you’re looking for a career change, give Faye a call. Aside from Faye’s bar, there are two places to grab a pint: the Vulcan County Inn and the Royal Canadian Legion Branch No. 21. On my way to the Legion I run into Jim, a self-described “son of a farmer, and cranky son of a bitch — but so what?” “Are you looking for the Elvis party?” he asks. “I’m looking for a beer,” I reply, and he decides to join me. Members of the nearby Siksika Nation have rented out the Legion’s hall for an Elvis-themed birthday party. From the other side of the wall, it sounds pretty rockin’, but we weren’t invited. Meanwhile, we’re the only drinkers in the bar. I grab a bottle of Big Rock and settle in for a conversation with Jim. For decades, Jim ran a freight business. These days, he’s retired and fills his days by “cutting the lawn for old ladies” and working on the Legion’s executive committee. He’s lived in Vulcan most of his life and raised his family here. He has strong opinions about Canada’s justice system, and dreams of “firing the taxman out of a cannon, as far away as possible.” With some trepidation, I raise the topic of Star Trek. He snorts. “Show me a Trekkie that makes me money,” he says. “Actually, I’ll tell you the one time I liked Trekkies. I hauled the materials to build that spaceship off the
highway. Made some money off that one.” The next day, I conclude my visit with the Vulcan Historic Walking Tour, a rambling path through town that hits a handful of milestone locations. Already, the pervasive presence of Star Trek has faded to background static, like fire hydrants or streetlamps. I visit the town bell, which used to toll for the nightly curfew. I visit the railroad tracks, where the town’s “Nine in a Line” grain elevators used to stand. It’s quiet, and the sky is huge. “Let us know when the article’s published,” says Faye when I return my key. “I’ll have someone pick up a copy. And come back soon, hey? We’re only an hour away.” Next time, maybe I’ll stay in the Star Trek room.
Blaze a trail
Located in downtown High River in the former CPR station **FREE ADMISSION** 403-652-7156
Dinner and drinks, you thinks? Devour Fast Forward’s delicious listings of Calgary restaurants and bars. ffwdweekly.com www.seemagazine.com
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Iron Horse Trail, near elk point
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Iron Horse Trail mixes recreation and culture Historic route was used by fur traders, Métis and gold miners Jenny Feniak • Photo: TRAVEL ALBERTA
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swath of rural land northeast of Edmonton offers more than just breathtaking vistas of the North Saskatchewan River. Visitors and residents alike can explore Alberta’s Iron Horse Trail and enjoy the natural wildlife, openair activities and sports, rich national and provincial history, a colourful tapestry of cultures and even a little excitement with the new Métis Crossing zip line. Starting at Waskatenau, just northeast of Edmonton, the Iron Horse Trail is guided by the North Saskatchewan River
The first explorers of Rupert’s Land (much of modern day Canada) and the early fur traders who made it this far west in the 1600s, did so by boat along various interconnecting waterways. But by the late 1700s, the surrounding terrain was being explored as a fur trading route and the Carlton Trail, leading from what is now Winnipeg’s Portage Avenue through to Fort Saskatchewan, Alberta, was officially declared in 1825 by Hudson’s Bay Company governor George Simpson. Over the next 185 years, this northern route to
In some places the deep ruts from the Métis Red River carts can still be seen, along with many other historic and modern points of interest.
as far as Heinsburg near the Saskatchewan border. The trail opened in June 2003, to coincide with International Trail Day, as a multi-use recreational corridor made possible through the joint effort of 10 rural municipalities. The trail follows the abandoned CN rail line, with a second arm branching north about halfway along the trail and culminating in Cold Lake. Although the trail was only recently established for recreational purposes, including hiking, cycling, cross-country skiing, horseback riding and more, it’s possibly the country’s oldest westward trail — at least by land. www.seemagazine.com
the west was traversed by fur traders, early settlers, missionaries, the NWMP, the Métis’ Red River wagons, gold miners and our early postal service. This historic route is criss-crossed by the Iron Horse Trail, and in some places the deep ruts from the Métis’ Red River carts can still be seen, along with many other historic and modern points of interest. As the Iron Horse Trail kicks off in Waskatenau, the old wooden rail trestle built in 1919 is worth a look. From there, the trail heads east to Smoky Lake, home of the famous Pumpkin FesContinued on page 17 15
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tival in October. A short detour from Smoky Lake along Victoria Trail, which is considered the oldest road in Alberta, brings you to Métis Crossing. Not only does it provide a fascinating spotlight on the culture and history of the prairies, but our government has declared 2010 the year of the Métis, inspiring an even bigger celebration during the annual Métis Crossing Voyage at the end of August. “We’re looking to extend [the Métis Crossing Voyage] by one day and making it a bit of a bigger celebration,” says Corrine Card, executive director of Métis Crossing. She says the weekend will be filled with dancing and jigging, bands on the openair stage, arts and crafts including porcupine quillwork, traditional food vendors and more. The huge site along the North Saskatchewan River was originally a collection of Métis homesteads and a valuable transportation stop for millennia. Archeological excavations at the site unearthed a campsite dating back 6,000 years. Open from the May to September long weekends, Métis Crossing has special events planned for National Aboriginal Day on June 19, as well as the Métis Crossing Music Jamboree on July 24 and 25. And any day you visit is a great opportunity to take a trip on their zip line, which reaches a height of more than 10 metres and soars over the plains along the river. “That’s the old highway, it is very important,” Card says of the North Saskatchewan River. “I’ve been [on the zip line] a couple of times. I’m afraid of heights, but it’s a lot of fun,” she says. “It’s incredible!” Further along the trail, visitors will go through the town of Vilna, where they can take a pit stop at the oldest operating pool hall in Alberta and check out the world’s largest mushrooms. And once past “Mile Zero,” where the three branches of the Iron Horse Trail intersect at Abilene Junction, the southern www.seemagazine.com
route passes through St. Paul — home to the world’s first UFO landing pad, a bizarre and unique site — en route to Elk Point. Just outside the town of Elk Point is the site of two historic fur trading posts from the 1790s. The Fort George Buckingham House Interpretive Centre offers visitors privileged insight into this rich history, and a walking path leads to the archeological sites of both forts. Nature lovers can follow the northern route, which is also steeped in history and offers endless scenery and wildlife. Passing through Glendon and Bonnyville, this leg of the Iron Horse Trail winds up in Cold Lake, where visitors can swim and scuba dive in one of the deepest and largest lakes in Alberta. All along the Iron Horse Trail, rests stops and campsites have been established to accommodate visitors looking for a leisurely and lengthy trip, or you can simply pick a section and spend an afternoon. ironhorsetrail.ca
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Willmore Wilderness Park, near Grande Cache
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Grande Cache a hidden gem of the Rockies Wilderness provides a playground for recreational opportunities Rene Mauthe • PHOTO: TRAVEL ALBERTA
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or many Rocky Mountain visitors, Grande Cache is an afterthought, a place many have heard about, but not visited. The town of 4,000 is off the beaten path; it doesn’t have the same cachet as Banff, Canmore and Jasper, yet that relative anonymity is part of its unique charm. Talk to anyone who has visited Grande Cache, and they’re likely to sprinkle terms like “hidden gem” and “best-kept secret” into the conversation. Built on a plateau above the Sulphur River in the Rocky Mountain foothills,
centre give visitors plenty of options for self-propelled recreation, guided tours and helter-skelter whitewater rafting thrills. Grande Cache is surrounded by mountains, and there are many options for exploring the hills on foot, bike and horseback. Local mountain biking trails range from flat tours around town to rugged tracks that climb up and down the hills ringing the community. The hiking opportunities are limited only by time and ambition; there are short walks around town, day trips to local
Grande Cache is the northern gateway to the Willmore Wilderness; a sprawling landscape of forest, open valleys, alpine meadows, soaring ridges and rugged peaks.
140 kms north of Hinton on Highway 40 (440 kms from Edmonton), Grande Cache is known to most for its coal-mining, and to select others as home of the Canadian Death Race. But Grande Cache offers a tantalizing range of activities and opportunities to discover the secrets to this “hidden gem” of the Rockies — one visit is enough to convince many travellers that a return trip is in order. For visitors approaching from the south, the Grande Cache Tourism and Interpretive Centre is their introduction to the town, and a one-stop shop for all the recreational opportunities it offers. The maps, brochures, guides and other info at the www.seemagazine.com
peaks, and extended trips to the backcountry. The Passport to the Peaks program is a unique way to explore the stunning scenery. The program booklet acts as a guide to 21 local peaks — rated Bronze, Silver or Gold depending upon the level of difficulty — that can be ascended without technical climbing gear. Grande Cache is also the northern gateway to the Willmore Wilderness; a sprawling landscape of forest, open valleys, alpine meadows, soaring ridges and rugged peaks. Anyone planning a trek in this region should get a map from the tourism centre that has trail maps on one side and backcountry travel advice on the other. Continued on page 21 19
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WHERE TO STAY
The earliest trappers and fur traders travelled through the Grande Cache area on horse, and a trail ride is an ideal introduction to the region’s spectacular mountain vistas. Anyone anxious to spot wildlife like mule deer, bighorn sheep, elk, moose and the elusive woodland caribou will want to saddle up and hit the trails, whether it’s a two-hour trip or a multi-day excursion into the Willmore Wilderness. The rivers and streams that are benign trickles in the Willmore Wilderness become foaming whitewater playgrounds by the time they hit town. Wild Blue Yonder Whitewater Rafting offers trips that give adrenaline seekers a full serving of thrills. These trips are no placid floats down a languid stream; raft riders are required to paddle hard when the guides call out instructions like “left forward,” “right back,” “all forward” to help steer the raft around obstacles. The Sulphur River Run, a Grade 2/3 run for whitewater veterans, goes down 11 km of the constricted Sulphur River canyon before entering the Smoky River at the Sulphur Gates. For elite athletes and weekend warriors, the August long weekend marks the annual pilgrimage to Grande Cache for the North Face Canadian Death Race (canadiandeathrace.com.) This 125-km foot race is a test of physical and mental endurance that follows a gruelling course through rugged mountain terrain. The Death Race has become an annual challenge for those who want to measure their capacity to survive the rigorous course and capricious weather. Finishing the 125-km course requires a mix of stamina, strategy, fitness and willpower; winners and finishers are often those who can balance energy conservation, all-out effort and mental mettle to persevere through summer heat, rain, wind, bog, slippery slopes and the dark of night. Whether you’re looking to explore one of the best-kept secrets in the Rockies, or seeking extreme thrills, Grande Cache delivers. grandecache.ca/tourism
Of course, once you get to Grande Cache, you’ll need a place to stay. Visitors who want all the comforts and amenities have their choice of the Grande Cache Hotel or the Best Western Grande Mountain Getaways & Hotel. The Grande Cache Hotel, located in the town centre, features clean, comfortable rooms with views of local mountains, as well as amenities like a 24-hour front desk service, wireless high-speed Internet, and a business centre in the front lobby. The hotel has three different dining options, including the Mountainview Family Restaurant, High Country Steak and Ale, and the Rockies Bar and Grill, which have slightly different menus. The Best Western Grande Mountain Getaways & Hotel, on Highway 40, includes amenities like a third-floor observation room to view the breathtaking scenery, in-room fridges and coffeemakers, an exercise room, jacuzzi and sauna, as well free high-speed Internet access, and fireplaces in some rooms. For travellers on a budget, or those who bring their home on wheels, the Grande Cache campground in the east end of town has 77 treed sites, including 55 with water power and sewage, as well as laundry facilities and showers. 21
Cold, wet and fun Kicking Horse River offers a wild adventure in the mountains DREW ANDERSON
F
ed by Wapta Lake and crashing through the Rocky Mountains on its way to Golden, B.C. and beyond, the Kicking Horse River is an often violent stretch of water, crashing over rocks and churning in forceful convulsions. Just the conditions you want to hurl yourself down in a raft. For 26 years, Alpine Rafting (alpinerafting.com) in Golden, B.C. has been taking everyone from hapless beginners to returning adrenaline junkies down some serious whitewater rapids located just three-anda-half hours west of Calgary on the TransCanada Highway. The adventure starts with a bus ride to the starting point, before everyone from the fittest of paddlers to the, um, less
ingrained and it seems perfectly reasonable. Once the rapids approach, having the willpower of a gopher is a godsend. We’re surrounded by soaring peaks and forests that have been spared the wrath of the pine beetle, but the river gets our full attention. At one point, our boat is headed toward a large rock protruding out of the water. Broomen continues to tell us to paddle forward. Straight for the rock. We all do what we’re told. One woman in the front of the boat plaintively asks why as she continues to paddle towards the rock, which, of course, we miss. But it’s no laughing matter once you hit the Class 4 rapids or higher. Unless you want to end up in the chaos of the cold
We’re surrounded by soaring peaks and forests that have been spared the wrath of the pine beetle, but the river gets our full attention.
physically chiselled, are squeezed into wetsuits. But don’t fret, that’s the only disheartening thing about going rafting down the Kicking Horse. After the less-than-flattering parking lot beauty show, groups of eight pile into solid inflatable rafts with experienced guides telling them to “listen carefully, do what you’re told when you’re told to do it, and you should be fine.” It’s a little unnerving. My guide for the day just happens to be the head guide, or river manager, Ryan Broomen. Before we hit the rapids, he has us practise jumping from one side of the boat to another on his command, paddling at his command, doing just about anything he says at his command. It’s 22 • 2010 Road Trip Guide
water without a boat to protect you, working as a team is essential. So is holding onto your paddle. After one section of rapids, a guide on a different raft loses his paddle. If another guide gets their hands on it, it will cost the offending river rat a case of beer. Sure enough, another guide gets the paddle and Broomen can’t hide his excitement. For the remainder of trip, he talks about the case of beer. On another set of rapids, Broomen explains that there are multiple little falls that feed into the river off the steep canyon walls, and he challenges anyone to count them all. I count two before we are engulfed in waves and knocked from side www.ffwdweekly.com
to side, all while trying to paddle in tandem. Apparently, I missed a few. As the trip comes to an end, we are offered the chance to get out of the boat and float down the river, which is a cold 4 C year-round. Despite the relative calm of the section, I still manage to swallow water and can only imagine what it would be like to be dumped in the harsh rapids. Shortly thereafter, Broomen asks if we would like to try flipping the boat. On purpose. We all agree. Heading straight for a large wave, Broomen orders everyone to one side of the raft as he pulls it on top of us with his paddle looped through a rope on the side. Nothing but water and darkness before I pop out of the swirling water right next to the now-upright raft. Someone’s lost paddle floats up between my legs. Not for the faint of heart, but not so aggressive as to ward off casual adventurers, a trip down the Kicking Horse River is a fantastic day in the mountains. There are a variety of tour operators offering rafting on the Kicking Horse, or closer to Calgary in Kananaskis Country. www.seemagazine.com
WHILE YOU’RE THERE
rafting on the kicking horse river, near golden, B.C.
Camping at Takakkaw Falls
If you’re heading out to take on the Kicking Horse River, why not camp near the source? Takakkaw Falls in Yoho National Park — Canada’s second highest waterfall — is a mere 45-minute drive from Alpine Rafting, and has a beautiful campground engulfed by the sound of water crashing from a height of 380 metres. It is a short walk to the site from an easily accessible parking lot, and carts are provided to carry all your goods. There is great hiking in the area that brings you to other falls and some backcountry camping spots. One thing to think about: Only some of the sites have firepits, so get there early or you’ll be out in the cold or cozying up at the communal firepit. 23
Ghosts of Alberta Digging up the past in the province’s abandoned towns Mark Hopkins • Photo: Travel Alberta
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otted across the map of Alberta, there are towns that didn’t make it. Early in the century, they were home to families and served as centres of commerce. Now, only a handful of buildings remain. When you run across them, they’re haunting fragments of a former life, a tiny glimpse into our province’s history — and, all in all, a pretty bitchin’ road trip. If you have the urge to dig up some old Alberta ghosts, here are just a few of your many options: BANKHEAD Located in Banff National Park, this former railway stop now hosts an interpretive trail, which identifies the former coal-mining buildings. You can learn about the Tipple, the Lamphouse, the compressed air engines and the Transformer Building (the last standing structure), and you may also find the Bankhead Cenotaph, a memorial to the town’s fallen war heroes. RETLAW Retlaw has one of the quirkiest names in Alberta – it’s “Walter” spelled backwards, after Walter R. Baker, a CPR official. In fact, if you continue down the railway line, the stops are named Retlaw, Enchant, Travers, Lomand, Armada… and you’ve got to assume, somewhere in the annals of history, the next stop started with a “W.” Narcissism at its finest! Several buildings in Retlaw are still standing, including the restored Retlaw church, which is used by local farmers for special events. ROWLEY Rowley was a train town that first dried up in the ’70s, after the railway station shut down and local farming became 24 • 2010 Road Trip Guide
Sam’s Saloon, Rowley
unprofitable. It had a resurgence in the ’80s, after the Genie Award-winning Bye Bye Blues filmed there and tourism started to flow, but visitors slowed to a trickle in the ’90s. Technically, Rowley is still holding the ghosts at bay: it has six residents and its own Facebook group, its grain elevators are still standing and it even reopens the old Sam’s Saloon on the last Saturday of every month for a pizza night. WHISKEY GAP This little valley community was part of a trade route in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, and during both the Canadian and the American Prohibitions it was a hotbed for smuggled alcohol. Before its abandonment, it had two brushes with the silver screen: a 1961 RCMP documentary called The Days of Whiskey Gap, and Days of Heaven, a 1978 film starring Richard Gere. There’s not much left of poor Whiskey Gap, except a historical marker on the side of the road and a few crumbling foundations in the fields. www.ffwdweekly.com
attractions and events Canoeing, Astotin Lake, Elk Island National Park
Calgary & Area — Events JUNE Calgary Jazz Festival June 21-28, Calgary Celebrating jazz for more than 30 years, the 2010 lineup includes artists such as Chick Corea, Poncho Sanchez, Toshi Reagon with The Budos Band, and more. Various venues, 403-802-4008, calgaryjazz.com Sled Island Film Festival June 24-29, Calgary Sled Island Film will host its inaugural www.seemagazine.com
Photo: TRAVEL ALBERTA
Festival of Festivals this year, with screenings from several film festivals and film presentation societies, as well as workshops and panel discussions focusing on media arts. If the film festival is as successful as the music festival that immediately follows it, the city will have a new summer event to brag about. Details TBA, 403-770-9698, sledisland.com Sled Island Music & Arts Festival June 30-July 3, Calgary A four-day festival showcasing a wide variety of emerging and established musicians playing bars throughout the city 25
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— Dinosaur Jr., Deerhoof, Jane Vain, Les Savy Fav, The Melvins, and the list goes on — as well as art shows and more. A great way to kick off the summer. Various venues, 403-770-9698, sledisland.com Canadian Rockies International Rodeo June 30-July 5, Calgary Hosted by the Alberta Rockies Gay Rodeo Association, this rodeo is a favourite destination for many GLBT competitors and spectators — and the result is one big party. The rodeo combines traditional events like steer wrestling with popular camp events like goat dressing and wild drag. Other highlights include live entertainment, carnival games, beer gardens, dance parties and more. Camping is available on-site. Strathmore Ag Society grounds, argra.org
JULY Canada Day Celebrations July 1 Head to Prince’s Island Park for free family entertainment from noon to 5 pm, or take in a pancake breakfast, live stage entertainment, carnival games and pony rides at Fort Calgary — or better yet, take a free shuttle bus from one location to the other. Stay at the Fort for a movie, or join the party at Olympic Plaza from 6 p.m. to midnight, followed by fireworks. Various venues, calgarycanadaday.ca and fortcalgary.com Shakespeare In The Park July 2-August 21, Calgary More than 750,000 visitors have enjoyed the works of the Bard at this popular outdoor summer festival. The 2010 summer program includes Othello, Much Ado About Nothing and the newly discovered Shakespeare play Double Falsehood. Prince’s Island Park, 403-440-6374, mtroyal.ca/conservatory/sitp Calgary Stampede July 9-18, Calgary A Calgary institution since 1912, this word-famous 10-day rodeo and midway www.seemagazine.com
event features live music and entertainment for the whole family. More than one million people take part in what’s billed as “The Greatest Outdoor Show on Earth.” Kicks off with a parade through downtown on July 9. Be sure to take in one of the many free pancake breakfasts held daily throughout the city. Calgary Stampede Grounds, 1-800-661-1260, calgarystampede.com Calgary Folk Music Festival July 22-25, Calgary Held the last weekend of July at Prince’s Island Park downtown, four days of music on six stages, bringing together acts from around the world and providing local talent a chance to strut their stuff. The 2010 lineup includes artists such as Ian Tyson, The Avett Brothers, St. Vincent, The Cat Empire, Natacha Atlas, Roberta Flack and Frank Turner. Prince’s Island Park, 403-233-0904, calgaryfolkfest.com Fiestaval Latin Festival July 24-25, Calgary A two-day, free, multicultural arts and entertainment festival highlighting Latin American culture. This family-oriented event has more than 240 vendors, 80 Latin shows and 10 international performers. Olympic Plaza, fiestaval.ca Calgary Fringe Festival July 30-August 7, Calgary Music, theatre, film and street performers merge to create an uncensored artistic event. Local, national and international artists present a multidisciplinary blend of fringe culture. Various venues in Inglewood, 403-451-9726, calgaryfringe.ca
AUGUST Calgary’s International Blues Festival August 5-8, Calgary Four days of the blues featuring acts from around the world, including Little Feat, The Holmes Brothers, Lester Quitzau, Mississippi Heat, Mike Reilly Band and others. Beer 27
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MOTION NOTION MUSIC FESTIVAL
July 15-19, Drayton Valley
Photo: Grant Buchwald
Motion Notion is a four-day electronic music festival described by founder James Katalyst as “an exploration of sound, nature and the infinite.” While there is camping onsite, with 50-plus DJs on the bill — including The Crystal Method — you won’t want to spend much time in your tent. 430-274-5978, motionnotion.com 28 • 2010 Road Trip Guide
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gardens, handicraft vendors and family area. Location TBA, calgarybluesfest.com Afrikadey! August 9-14, Calgary Afrikadey 2010 will focus on the creative development of young people in our midst, and feature K’Naan. The festival culminates with a day of music and entertainment at Prince’s Island Park. Various venues, 403-234-9110, afrikadey.com Globalfest August 20-28, Calgary An international Fireworks Festival combined with the OneWorld Festival, a celebration of diversity and multiculturalism. GlobalFest Cultural Pavilions showcase and celebrate over 60 unique cultures of Alberta’s ethnic communities, featuring dance, music, food and more. This popular event started in 2003 and won the city’s top tourism award in 2009. Elliston Park, 403-569-9679, globalfest.ca Calgary International Reggae Festival August 21, Calgary Gathering the best of international, national and local reggae talent for a celebration of music and culture. Mainstage, beer garden, food vendors, youth area, arts and crafts. Shaw Millennium Park, 403-355-5696, calgaryreggaefestival.com Expo Latino August 27-29, Calgary A diverse sampling of food, drink and performances from the city’s large Hispanic community. Prince’s Island Park, 403-271-2744, hispanicarts.com
SEPTEMBER BBQ On The Bow Festival September 4-5, Calgary A two-day, free, fun-filled family event featuring entertainment and a barbecue competition held on Labour Day weekend. Eau Claire Festival Market, bbqonthebow.com www.seemagazine.com
Calgary Highland Games Sept 4, Calgary Piping, drumming, Highland dancing and traditional Scottish competitions like hammer toss are highlights of this annual family-friendly event, which has been held in Calgary since 1913. Wear your kilt if you have one! Springbank Park for All Seasons, calgaryhighlandgames.org
Calgary & Area – Attractions Aero Space Museum Of Calgary Open year-round Features a wide variety of civilian and military aircraft that span the entire century of Canadian flight, and that have all been integral in Western Canadian aviation history. 4629 McCall Way NE, 403-250-3752, asmac.ab.ca Calaway Park May-October Amusement park west of the city on the TransCanada Highway with rides, stage shows and special events. Range Road 33, 403-240-3822, calawaypark.com Calgary Zoo Open year-round For more than 75 years, the Calgary Zoo, Botanical Garden and Prehistoric Park has offered visitors the opportunity to experience and interact with wildlife — right in the heart of the city. Western Canada’s largest accredited zoo has over 1,000 animals, six acres of botanical gardens (some areas closed due to construction), a prehistoric park and playgrounds. Dinosaurs Alive exhibit, featuring animatronic dinosaurs in the Prehistoric Park, on display until October 31. 1300 Zoo Rd NE, 1-800-588-9993, calgaryzoo.ca Cantos Music Foundation Open year-round The Cantos Music Foundation hous33
es some of the rarest instruments in the world, pays tribute to a century of music in Alberta, and is home to the Canadian Country Music Hall of Fame. General drop-in tours available Sundays at 1:30 p.m. and 3 p.m., and Thursdays at 6 p.m., or book a private tour at least two weeks in advance. 134-11 Ave SE, 403-543-5115, cantos.ca Chinese Cultural Centre Open year-round The completion of the $10-million Chinese Cultural Centre in 1992 marked a new era in promoting Chinese culture to mainstream society. The highlight is Dr. Henry Fok Cultural Hall and its 70-foot high ceiling, modelled after the Temple of Heaven in Beijing. The intricate designs on the ceiling include the paintings of 561 dragons and 40 phoenixes. The centre also houses the Chinese Artifacts Museum. 197-1 St SW, 403-262-5071, culturalcentre.ca Fish Creek Provincial Park Open year-round Canada’s largest provincial park located within a city, Fish Creek provides opportunities for walking, cycling, picnicking, birdwatching and more. Various access points, 403-297-7927, tpr.alberta.ca/parks/fishcreek/ Fort Calgary Open year-round Fort Calgary brings history to life by telling the stories of the Mounted Police site, the settlement and the people of Calgary. The site includes the reconstructed 1875 Fort site, exhibits depicting Calgary from 1875 to the1940s, a replica 1888 Barracks, The Deane House Historic Site and Restaurant, and a 40-acre riverside park with interpretive pathways. 750 9 Ave SE, 403-290-1875, fortcalgary.com 34 • 2010 Road Trip Guide
Glenbow Museum Open year-round Intriguing stories from Western Canada connect with extraordinary art and artifacts from around the world. Combining a museum, art gallery, library and archives all under one roof in downtown Calgary, the Glenbow is one of the largest museums in Canada. 130 9 Ave SE, 403-268-4100, glenbow.org Heritage Park Historical Village May-October (weekends only Sept. 7-Oct. 11) Discover the Old West at Canada’s largest living history museum and learn about fur traders, railway workers and prairie town folk. Features an authentic steam train, an antique midway and a paddlewheeler, all on 127 scenic acres. Includes access to the Gasoline Alley Museum. 1900 Heritage Dr SW, 403-268-8500, heritagepark.ca Inglewood Bird Sanctuary Open year-round (visitor centre closed Mondays and holidays) A 32-hectare federally designated bird reserve offering the public four kilometres of walking trails, natural history education courses and guided nature walks. Wildlife information available from staff. 9 Ave and Sanctuary Rd SE, bsc-eoc.org/national/ibs.html The Military Museums Open year-round Dedicated to representing Canada’s navy, army, and air force and educating the public about Canada’s military. Learn about the victories, tragedies, and sacrifices of the Canadian Forces. Experience life at the helm in a Second World War wheelhouse, walk through a First World War trench and witness a bomber squadron’s mission over enemy territory. 4520 Crowchild Tr SW, 403-974-2850, themilitarymuseums.ca www.ffwdweekly.com
PIT STOP
ELK ISLAND NATIONAL PARK
Open year-round
PHOTO: TRAVEL ALBERTA
This small national park is located just one hour outside of Edmonton. Within the aspen parkland, you’ll find more than 250 species of birds as well as grazing animals like bison, moose and deer. This is a destination for wildlife viewing, hiking, birdwatching, picnicking and camping. To reserve a campground call 1-877-RESERVE, or visit www.pc.gc.ca www.seemagazine.com
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ANIMETHON
August 6-8, Grant MacEwan University downtown campus, Edmonton
Hundreds of Japanese animation fans congregate every year at the downtown campus of Grant MacEwan University in Edmonton to attend Animethon, a three-day celebration of costumes, comic books and animation. animethon.org 36 • 2010 Road Trip Guide
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Shaw Millennium Park Open 24/7 North America’s largest free outdoor 24-hour skatepark, located on the west side of downtown. Amenities include 75,000 square feet of skating surface, basketball courts, four sand volleyball courts, family park with cascade fountain, Millennium clock, washrooms, laser lights, and seasonal skatepark monitors (mid June to mid September). 1220 9 Ave SW, 3-1-1 (within Calgary) or 403-268-2489, calgary.ca Spruce Meadows Open year-round This international show-horse jumping complex, in a scenic location on the south side of the city, has captivated a worldwide audience and attracted virtually every Olympic, World, European, and National Show Jumping Champion. There are many other events to take in as well. Major tournaments: National, June 9-13; North American, July 7-11; Masters, Sept. 8-12. 18011 Spruce Meadows Way SW, 403-974-4200, sprucemeadows.com Telus World Of Science – Calgary Open year-round Showing Body Worlds and the Brain until Sept. 6. The exhibit features more than 200 authentic specimens — including wholebody plastinates, individual organs and transparent body slices — and presents recent findings in neuroscience, information on brain development and function, brain disease and disorders, and brain performance and improvement. Also includes entry to the Creative Kids Museum. 701 11 St SW, 403-268-8300, calgaryscience.ca
Edmonton & Area – Events JUNE Northern Alberta International Children’s Festival June 1-5, St. Albert Inspiring and igniting the imaginations of www.seemagazine.com
the young and young at heart. Get ready to explore Taiwan, Vietnam, Belgium, Scotland and different parts of Canada at this year’s festival. Various venues and St. Alberta Place, 780-459-1542, childfest.com Edmonton Dreamspeakers Festival June 2-5, Edmonton Dreamspeakers Film Festival provides a venue for Dreamtalkers — filmmakers, performers and artists — and offers a unique exploration into aboriginal cultures from all parts of the globe. Edmonton, 780-378-9609, dreamspeakers.org/index.php Nextfest June 3-13, Edmonton An eclectic arts festival including theatre, dance, film, visual art and music, and highlighting original work from over 400 local, national and international artists. Various venues, 780-453-2440, nextfest.ca Edmonton Improvaganza Theatre Festival June 16-26, Edmonton Performers from the best improv companies around the world converge on Edmonton for 10 days of total unpredictability. Varscona Theatre, 780-448-0695, rapidfiretheatre.com The Edmonton Works Art Festival June 25-July 7, Edmonton The Works is a free event that attracts artists and patrons from around the world, and offers over 200 exciting exhibits and special events to the public. Various locations downtown, 780-426-2122, theworks.ab.ca Edmonton International Jazz Festival June 25-July 4, Edmonton Musicians from across Canada and the world gather for 10 days of performances, including headliners John Pizzarelli with Nikki Yanofsky, Carol Welsman with the 37
Sylvan Lake Alberta
a trip worth taking... ESCAPE RELAX BREATHE ESCAPE RELAX BREATHE
SL
laughing, SWIMMING, sliding, GOLFING, bonding, relaxing, tanning, CRUISING, playing, SHOPPING, lounging, dancing, EATING...
You’ll talk about it for YEARS. Visitor Information: Toll Free 1.866.887.5550
www.sylvanlake.ca 38 • 2010 Road Trip Guide
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Edmonton Jazz Orchestra, Ola Onabule with the Black Pioneer Heritage Singers, Joshua Redman’s James Farm Quartet, and the Bill Frisell Trio, among others. Various venues, 780-990-0222, edmontonjazz.com Freewill Shakespeare Festival June 29-July 25, Edmonton This outdoor Shakespeare festival celebrates why the Bard’s works are still relevant today. This year’s shows are Macbeth and Much Ado About Nothing. Hawrelak Park, 780-425-8086, rivercityshakespeare.com
PIT STOP ALBERTA OPEN SAND SCULPTURE CHAMPIONSHIPS July 17, Slave Lake
JULY Edmonton Street Performers Festival July 9-18, Edmonton Outdoor festival celebrates international street performers. Sir Winston Churchill Square, 780-425-5162, edmontonstreetfest.com Old Strathcona Street Fair And Fashion Extravaganza July 11, Edmonton The street fair features a fashion show along with entertainment in the middle of Whyte Avenue. 780-437-4182, oldstrathcona.ca Capital Ex Festival 2010 July 23-August 1, Edmonton One of Canada’s largest exhibitions, including a midway and shows such as Global Connections and Northwest Originals. Starts with a downtown parade on July 16. Northlands Park, 780-471-7210, northlands.com Honda Indy Edmonton July 23-25, Edmonton The Edmonton Indy is set to drive into high gear. The 11th stop in the 2010 IndyCar series, the open-wheel racing series bring high-speed thrills to the downtown airport. Centre City Airport, 780-451-8000, edmontonindy.com www.seemagazine.com
Giant sandcastles are the main attraction at this event, featuring oldfashioned family fun like the watermelon-eating contest, tug-of-war, music, beach volleyball and more. This event is open to anyone willing to participate; if you can pack sand, you can sign up! This year’s theme is the wonderful world of Disney. Devonshire Beach, 1-800-2674654, www.lesserslavelake.ca 39
PIT STOP
HONDA EDMONTON INDY July 23-25, Edmonton
PHOTO: PERRY Nelson
The 11th stop in the 2010 IndyCar series, the open-wheel racing series brings high-speed thrills to the downtown airport. With speeds over 300 km/h and a family-friendly atmosphere, there’s something for everyone at the sixth instalment of this exciting race in the heart of Edmonton. City Centre Airport, 780-451-8000, edmontonindy.com 40 • 2010 Road Trip Guide
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Edmonton Heritage Festival July 31-August 2, Edmonton A three-day showcase of Canada’s vibrant multicultural heritage. More than 60 pavilions representing over 75 cultures from all over the world. Sample culinary delicacies, see creative performances, shop for crafts, artwork, and clothing, or chat with people eager to tell you a little about their cultural roots and their present-day communities. Hawrelak Park, 780-488–3378, heritage-festival.com
AUGUST Edmonton Folk Music Festival August 5-8, Edmonton Staged in beautiful Gallagher Park in the River Valley, set against Edmonton’s city skyline, the folk fest is a highlight of the summer. The lineup for the 31st annual festival includes Ben Harper, John Prine, Jakob Dylan, Kate Rusby, Sarah Harmer, Levon Helm, Ian Tyson, Calexico, Brandi Carlile,
Toumani Diabate, Zachary Richard and others. Gallagher Park, 780-429-1999, efmf.ab.ca Animethon August 6-8, Edmonton Come dressed as your favourite comic character and indulge your love for Japanese animation at the 17th annual Animethon. Purchase comic books, merchandise, and movies at the huge trade show located in the university’s underground parking lot. Grant MacEwan University Downtown Campus, animethon.org Cariwest August 6-8, Edmonton A colourful costume extravaganza, calypso competition and a gala parade are part of this Caribbean festival that includes a dance, block party and steel band competition. Various venues, 780-421-7800, cariwestfestival.com
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PIT STOP GOPHER HOLE MUSEUM
Open year-round Torrington
Edmonton International Fringe Theatre Festival August 12-22, Edmonton North America’s largest and oldest Fringe festival sets the standard. The 2008 event included more than 1,200 shows and performances from 207 companies in 27 venues. Various venues, 780-448-9000, fringetheatreadventures.ca Edmonton Dragon Boat Festival August 20-22, Edmonton Races take place on the North Saskatchewan River just below Louise McKinney Riverfront Park, along with vendors, stage performances and a beer garden. Louise McKinney Park, 780-493-8158, edbfa.com Labatt Blues Festival August 20-22, Edmonton One of the Top 5 blues festivals in North America, winner of the 2008 “Keeping the Blues Alive Award” from the Blues Foundation, the only Canadian festival to be honoured in this fashion. Hawrelak Park, 780-708-7230, bluesinternationalltd.com
SEPTEMBER
PHOTO: TRAVEL ALBERTA
Sure you can see gophers almost anywhere on the prairies, but where else can you see them curling? The small town of Torrington has become a destination because of its worldfamous Gopher Hole Museum featuring stuffed gophers in various anthropomorphic scenes. Prairie pests become a screwball work of art. 403-631-3866 42 • 2010 Road Trip Guide
Sobey’s Symphony Under The Sky September 3-6, Edmonton Every Labour Day weekend, the Edmonton Symphony Orchestra and their fans take over Hawrelak Park to enjoy an amazing lineup of concerts. Hawrelak Park Amphitheatre, 780-428-1108, edmontonsymphony.com Harvest Of The Past And Taste Of Heritage Food Festival September 12, Edmonton A spectacular harvest and food extravaganza where you can feel the spirit of of the past and enjoy a taste of the present. Harvest activities, historic demonstrations, Alberta-produced food and entertainment. Ukrainian Cultural Heritage Village, 780-662-3640, culture.alberta.ca www.ffwdweekly.com
Edmonton & Area – Attractions ART GALLERY OF ALBERTA Open year-round A work of art — inside and out. The new Art Gallery of Alberta, designed by architect Randall Stout, has three floors of exhibition space, and is focused on the development and presentation of original exhibitions of contemporary and historical art from Alberta, Canada and around the world. 2 Sir Winston Churchill Square , 780-422-6223, youraga.ca Castrol Raceway Street Legal Drags April 30 - Oct 3 Friday night’s are for racing at the Castrol Raceway quarter-mile drag strip. It is open to the general public for anyone who wishes to race. You don’t need a race car; you can even race a mini-van, as long as your vehicle is registered you are good to go. Edmonton, 877-331-7223, castrolraceway.com Canadian Petroleum Discovery Centre Open year-round (hours vary) On February 13, 1947, a huge oil strike at Leduc #1 was the start of an oil boom that provided both growth and prosperity to Alberta and all of Canada. Located at the Leduc #1 Historical Site at the junction of the Devon and Nisku highways, indoor and outdoor exhibits reflect on the history, technology and progress of the oil patch. Nisku, 1-866-987-4323, leducnumber1.com Fort Edmonton Park May 23-Sept. 6 One of Edmonton’s premier attractions represents four distinct time periods, exploring Edmonton’s development from a fur trade post in the vast Northwest, to a booming metropolitan centre after the First World War. The park features over 75 structures many of which are the origiwww.seemagazine.com
nals. Costumed interpreters, free steam engine train rides from the park entrance, free streetcar rides and more. 7000 - 143 St, 780-496-8787, fortedmontonpark.ca Great Divide Waterfall Long weekends The Great Divide Waterfall was built in 1980 as an addition to Edmonton’s High Level Bridge. Designed by city artist Peter Lewis to mark the occasion of Alberta’s 75th anniversary, it’s 64 metres high and spans 91 metres along the expanse of the bridge. High Level Bridge, edmonton.ca/attractions John Janzen Nature Centre Open year round Located in the heart of Edmonton’s River Valley, this nature centre has a lot to offer for both kids and adults interested in how nature works. Programs, events, exhibits and information to encourage awareness and understanding of nature
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in an urban setting. 7000 143 St, 780-496-2910, edmonton.ca Old Strathcona Farmers’ Market Open Saturdays, year-round Discover “a touch of the farm in the heart of the city” where fresh vegetables, fruit, baking, preserves, meats, seafood, fresh eggs, cheese and ethnic foods are offered. Also, seasonal fresh flowers and plants, arts and crafts. 10310 83 Ave, 780-439-1844, osfm.ca Royal Alberta Museum Open year-round Set in a park just west of downtown, the museum offers some of the finest cultural and natural history collections in the country, featuring aboriginal history, wild Alberta, and rocks, minerals and fossils. 12845 102 Ave, 780-453-9100, royalalbertamuseum.ca Telus World Of Science – Edmonton Open year-round Permanent and temporary exhibits designed to inspire people to learn about, and contribute to, science and technology advances that strengthen themselves, their families, and their community. 11211 142 St, 780- 451-3344, odyssium.com Valley Zoo Open year-round Home to more than 350 animals and focused on conservation, the Valley Zoo is located in the heart of the city. 13315 Buena Vista Road, 780-496-8787, valleyzoo.ca
Southern Alberta – Events JUNE Vulcan Spock Days June 11-13, Vulcan This annual community celebration, combined with the Galaxyfest Star Trek Con44 • 2010 Road Trip Guide
vention, brings in Trekkies to see the Vulcan Starship, search for UFOs and more. Vulcan, 403-485-2994, vulcantourism.com The Gathering — Cowboy Poetry June 17-20, Pincher Creek A great western tradition in its 23rd year — hear about the old west through poetry, songs and stories. Pincher Creek, 1-888-298-5855, pincher-creek.com/agsociety World Chicken Dance Championships June 19-20, Siksika Reserve Overlooking the beautiful Bow River Valley, this event will attract the world’s best Chicken Dancers from around powwow country as they vie for the world title in tiny tot, junior, teen, adult and senior titles. Blackfoot Crossing Historical Park, 1-888-654-6274, blackfootcrossing.ca/chicken_dance.html Medicine Hat Jazz Festival June 19-28, Medicine Hat A world-class festival held at an eclectic mix of venues, running the gamut from the signature concert at the Downtown Bus Terminal Parkade to the intimate and quaint atmosphere of late-night clubs. Various venues, 403-502-8777, medicinehatjazzfest.com
JULY South Country Fair July 16-18, Fort Macleod An intimate, outdoor, camping-style folk and roots festival in Southern Alberta. Some of the artists on the bill include Chad VanGaalen, Delhi 2 Dublin and Wendy Mcneill. Fish and Game Park, scfair.ab.ca The Great Canadian Barn Dance Music Festival July 23-25, Hillspring Three days of music on the outdoor stage, in the parking lots and around the campfire. Workshops, open mic, arts and crafts, games for the kids at this event near www.ffwdweekly.com
Waterton Lakes National Park. Hillspring, 1-866-626-3407, gcbd.ca/blue-grass-festival Alberta International Air Show July 24-25, Lethbridge Marking 100 years of powered flight in Canada, this annual show features highflying action such as Tora Tora Tora, CF-18 Hornet, Hawk One & RV Top Landing. Lethbridge County Airport, 403-380-4245, albertaairshow.com
PIT STOP GLOBAL FEST
August 20-28, Calgary
AUGUST Whoop-Up Days August 24-28, Lethbridge Daily concerts, bull riding, pro rodeo, midway rides, entertainment on the free stage. Kicks off with a parade on August 24. Exhibition Park, 403-328-4491, exhibitionpark.ca/whoopup.htm
Southern Alberta – Attractions Alberta Birds Of Prey Foundation May-September Alberta’s first privately licensed raptor rescue and conservation organization. Located two hours south of Calgary in the heart of Canada’s wild prairies. Alberta Birds of Prey Foundation Coaldale, 403-345-4262, burrowingowl.com/index.php Bar U Ranch May-September Set in the rolling foothills south of Longview on the scenic Cowboy Trail (Hwy 22), this ranch commemorates the history and importance of ranching in Canada. A visitor orientation centre and a living history program interpret a time when the West was young. 1-888-773-8888, pc.gc.ca/eng/lhn-nhs/ab/baru/index.aspx www.seemagazine.com
PHOTOS: GLOBALFEST
This unique festival combines an international fireworks competition with a celebration of multiculturalism at Elliston Park. GlobalFest Cultural Pavilions showcase and celebrate over 60 unique cultures of Alberta’s ethnic communities, featuring dance, music, food and more. The day comes to a close with a dazzling fireworks display. 403-569-9679, globalfest.ca 45
Bellevue Underground Mine Tour May-September The only underground coal mine tour in Western Canada — put on an authentic miner’s helmet and carry a lamp through the corridors worked by miners in the Crowsnest Pass from 1903 to 1961. During the hour-long tour, interpreters show original artifacts and explain turn-of-the-century underground mining techniques. Bellevue, 403-564-4700, crowsnestguide.com/bellevuemine Blackfoot Crossing Historical Park Open year-round Located in the Canadian Badlands on the top of a hill overlooking a 6,000-acre site, the largest First Nations owned and operated museum in Canada features a heritage exhibition, contemporary and traditional dance in the theatre, and a tipi village where guests can camp overnight
46 • 2010 Road Trip Guide
and enjoy traditional Black foot cuisine. Hwy 842, 1-888-654-6274, blackfootcrossing.ca Cypress Hills Interprovincial Park Cypress Hills Interprovincial Park, located southeast of Medicine Hat, sits on a rise about 600 meters above the vast Great Plains between Saskatchewan and Alberta. The highest point between the Rocky Mountains and Labrador, the park has lodgepole pine forests and rugged mountain-like terrain. Boating, fishing, hiking, birding, swimming, camping. Annual History in the Hills festival celebrates First Nations and Métis culture, June 1 to 4. Elkwater, (403) 893-3835, tpr.alberta.ca/parks/cypresshills/findex.asp The Frank Slide Interpretive Centre Open year-round Highlighting the rich history of the Crowsnest Pass amid the breathtaking beauty
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of the Canadian Rockies, the centre features educational presentations on topics such as the 1903 Frank Slide, the Canadian Pacific Railway, European settlement, early underground coal mining and community life. Hwy 3, 403-562-7388, frankslide.com/home.html Fort Museum Of The North West Mounted Police May-October (hours vary) In 1873, the North West Mounted Police force was created to bring law and order to the Canadian northwest. This gallery explores some of the highlights of the Force’s history and development. Fort Macleod, nwmpmuseum.com Galt Museum & Archives Open year-round Engages and educates our communities in the human history of southwestern Alberta through collections, stories and memories. Discover aboriginal culture, soldiers, lawmakers and breakers. Lethbridge, 1-866-320-3898, galtmuseum.com Head-Smashed-In Buffalo Jump Open year-round Located northwest of Fort MacLeod, this is the site of the world’s oldest, largest and best preserved buffalo jump. Older than Stonehenge or the pyramids at Giza, the site provides a fascinating glimpse into the prehistoric life of the Blackfoot. Hwy 785, 403-553-2731 head-smashed-in.com/ Medicine Hat Clay Industries National Historic District Open year-round Set against the dramatic cliffs of the South Saskatchewan River, the 150-acre Historic Clay District was once home to some of Canada’s most important clay factories. The unique Medalta Potteries site, which once produced over 75 per cent of the pottery in Canada, provides the setting for a living, working museum. Enter a rare circular kiln, explore the original factory and learn about the many clay www.seemagazine.com
products that were once produced in the area. Medicine Hat, 403-529–1070, medalta.org Nikka Yuko Japanese Garden May-October Established during Canada’s Centennial in 1967, Nikka Yuko was built utilizing Japanese tradition to recognize contributions made by citizens of Japanese ancestry to the multicultural community of Lethbridge, and as a symbol of international friendship. Offering a full calendar of events throughout the season, including traditional tea ceremonies, moonlight strolls and art exhibits. 9 Ave S and Mayor Magrath Dr, 403-328-3511, nikkayuko.com Writing-On-Stone Provincial Park Open year-round One of the most important spiritual sites for the Niitsítapi or Blackfoot People, an archaeological preserve within the park, located 32 km east of Milk River, protects the largest concentration of rock art on the North American plains. The artists are thought to be the Blackfoot people who settled this area for at least 3,500 years. Guided interpretive walks and tours are available from mid-May until Labour Day. Hwy 500, 403-647-2364, albertaparks. ca/siteinformation.aspx?id=177
Central Alberta – Events JUNE Ponoka Stampede June 28-July 4, Ponoka This one-week stampede has been running for more than 70 years, including rodeo events, chuckwagon races and entertainment in this small faming town in central Alberta. Ponoka Stampede Grounds, 403-783-0100, ponokastampede.com 47
PIT STOP
SLED ISLAND MUSIC & ART FESTIVAL
June 30-July 3, Calgary
Monotonix at last year’s Sled Island Festival
Photo: Sled ISland
This rapidly growing festival takes over the city’s live music venues as well as Olympic Plaza for four days, showcasing a wide variety of more than 50 emerging and established indie musicians. This year’s lineup includes the likes of The Posies, Dinosaur Jr., Deerhoof, Jane Vain, Les Savy Fav, The Melvins, and more. 403-770-9698, sledisland.com 48 • 2010 Road Trip Guide
www.ffwdweekly.com
JULY Vegreville Pysanka Days July 2-4, Vegreville Enjoy song, dance, and musical entertainment, and check out the famous folk arts displays. Don’t miss the Yarmarok Tradeshow where you can find yourself next year’s Mother’s Day gift. Or you can drop by the petting farm to see the baby animals. Vegreville, 780-632-2777, pysankafestival.com Canadian Badlands Passion Play July 9-11, 16-18, Drumheller One of Canada’s largest outdoor theatrical events, hundreds of actors and musicians re-tell the story of the life, death and resurrection of Jesus, on a stage in a hidden valley. Drumheller, 403-823-2001, canadianpassionplay.com Motion Notion July 15-19, Drayton Valley Four days to experience mind-expanding music and art in a very natural environment. Bring your camping gear and get ready for a live music experience like no other. Drayton Valley, 403-274-5978, motionnotion.com Westerner Days Fair & Exposition July 21-25, Red Deer Midway rides, live entertainment, pony chuckwagon races, agricultural and arts shows, and more. Popular country music artist Johnny Reid will perform July 24. Red Deer, 403-343-7800, westerndays.ca Big Valley Jamboree July 29-August 1, Camrose Voted the Canadian Country Music Association’s Country Music Event of the Year in 2001, 2004, 2006 and 2009. The 2010 lineup includes Keith Urban, Kevin Costner, Jack Ingram and Miranda Lambert. A trade show will also be available. Camrose, 1-888-404-1234, www.seemagazine.com
bigvalleyjamboree.com Centrefest July 31-August 1, Red Deer Premium street performers and visual artists from around the world converge on downtown Red Deer for a show like no other. Gaetz Ave and Ross St, 403-340-8696, centrefest.ca
AUGUST Mountain View Music Festival August 6-8, Carstairs A three-day grassroots festival of music, dance, visual arts and crafts, with a focus on Alberta talent. Entry is by donation, and organizers have made a concerted effort to keep everything affordable, adding to the warm and friendly small-town vibe. The festival was founded in 2006 by brothers Jason and Sheldon Valleau of The Polyjesters. Carstairs, 403-998-8182, mvmf.ca Mukwah Jamboree August 13-15, Sundre This outdoor weekend festival is celebrating its fifth anniversary of combining happy campers and great music. The lineup for 2010 hasn’t been announced yet, but if past years are anything to go by, you won’t want to miss it. Add to the fun by calling ahead to book a whitewater rafting trip with the tour company that operates out of the same space. Southwest of Sundre, mukwahjamboree.com Jazz At The Lake Festival August 19-22, Sylvan Lake Sylvan Lake’s eighth annual jazz fest presents a variety of performers, from intimate jazz vocalists to big bands. Sylvan Lake, 403-887-5050, jazzatthelake.com
SEPTEMBER Thunder In The Valley Drag Race September 3-5, Drayton Valley The September long weekend will bring thrill-seekers to Drayton Valley, southwest 49
of Edmonton, for the sixth annual drag race. The only three rocket cars in Canada will compete. Drayton Valley Municipal Airport, thunderinthevalleydragrace.ca
Central Alberta – Attractions Alberta Prairie Railway Excursions May-December One-day adventures on board a real steam or diesel-powered train, complete with murder mysteries, dinner theatre, teddy bear specials and more. A five- to six-hour journey through Alberta’s Parkland, starting and ending in Stettler. Stettler, 1-800-282-3994, absteamtrain.com Atlas Coal Mine National Historic Site May-October Found in the community of East Coulee near Drumheller, this is one of the most
UKRAINIAN
PYSANKA FESTIVAL
3 Days of Music, Song, Dance, Folk Arts & Food Dance Competitions, Pioneer Demonstrations Cultural Showcase
Grandstand Show featuring Dauphin Riding Cossacks and Dancers, Millenia Band, Barvinok Band, Euphoria Band, Wishart Hopak Dancers and Viter Ukrainian Dancers July 2 – 4, 2010 Vegreville, Alberta
$20.00 for the Day FREE for children 12 & under.
phone/fax 780 632 2777 vegrevillefestival@telusplanet.net
www.vegpysankafestival.ca
50 • 2010 Road Trip Guide
complete coal mining museums in Canada. Wander a historic landscape in the badlands, climb the last wooden tipple in Canada, explore the underground, ride in a mine locomotive and hear the stories of the men who dug for coal. While in the region, be sure to drive across the 11 one-way bridges to the Last Chance Saloon in Wayne, and walk the suspension bridge in Rosedale. Drumheller, 403-822-2220 atlascoalmine.ab.ca/home.html Big Valley Creation Science Museum Check schedule prior to visiting Evolution? It’s a myth. Trace the British royal family to Adam and Eve. Learn how dinosaurs and humans co-existed. Find out what creation science is all about and make up your own mind. Big Valley, 403-876-2100, bvcsm.com Dinosaur Provincial Park About two hours east of Calgary, gently rolling prairie grasslands suddenly drop off, revealing hoodoos, pinnacles, coulees and buttes. A trip to Dinosaur Provincial Park is also a 75 million-year foray back in time — dinosaurs once lived here, leaving an amazingly rich fossil and bone record. Interpretive centre, hiking trails, camping. 403-378-4342, dinosaurpark.ca Gopher Hole Museum Open year-round Torrington is the home to the infamous Gopher Hole Museum, which showcases stuffed Richardson ground squirrels dressed up as people in everyday scenes, from hairdressers to preachers. Odd but intriguing. Hwy 27 east of Olds, 403-631-3866 Lacombe Corn Maze July 23-September 1 Alberta’s original corn maze just west of Lacombe is a family-friendly attraction with a 15-acre corn maze, mini-mazes, a picnic area, a hay jump, a corn cannon and more. Hwy 12, 403-782-4653, lacombecornmaze.com www.ffwdweekly.com
Reynolds Alberta Museum Open year-round Located just west of Wetaskiwin, Canada’s second largest transportation museum explores our mechanized history through four themes: transportation, agriculture, aviation and industry. Fly in an open-cockpit biplane, ride in a Model T, and check out the legendary Avro Arrow — all in one day. Wetaskiwin, 780-361-1351, machinemuseum.net Royal Tyrrell Museum Open year-round Named after Joseph Burr Tyrrell, who discovered the first dinosaur fossils in the Drumheller Valley, this internationally recognized palaeontology museum features a large display of complete dinosaur skeletons and a number of interactive exhibits as well as self-guided interpretive trails. Drumheller, 403-823-7707, tyrrellmuseum.com
Northern Alberta — Events JUNE North Country Fair June 18-20, Driftpile A weekend of music and camping in the beautiful Driftpile Valley to celebrate the summer solstice. Some of the artists on the bill include Alive and Wells, Maria in the Shower, Creaking Tree String Quartet, and The Swifty’s. Opening ceremonies: Friday, June 18, 5:30 p.m. Closing ceremonies: Sunday, June 20, 4:30 p.m. Driftpile Valley, lslncca.ca/current/index.php Boonstock June 24-26, Gibbons Matthew Good and The Offspring will headline this year’s edition of Boonstock, a three-day music festival near Gibbons. If you carpool to Boonstock and decorate your vehicle, you will be entered to win lifetime passes to the special VIP line. Bring your body paint and your camping gear. boonstock.ca www.seemagazine.com
JULY Astral Harvest July 1-4, Driftpile An eclectic mix of music including dubstep, psychedelic trance, ambient and electro. In between the beats, check out the workshops, presentations, live art and marketplace also featured during the festival. Lesser Slave Lake, astralharvest.com Athabasca Magnificent River Rats Festival July 1-2 The first night will be a mixture of country and classic rock with Canadian artists Shane Chisholm, High Valley, Aaron Lines and Deric Ruttan, followed by a day of family events and rocking bands like Joe Public, Andy Delorme and Rattlesnake Romeo. Athabasca, 1-877-211-8669, riverratsfestival.com Bud Country Fever Music Festival July 1-4, Grande Prairie The Peace Country comes alive with some of the biggest names in country music — George Canyon, Gretchen Wilson, Doc Walker, Shane Yellowbird and others. Grande Prairie, 780-518-8711, budcountryfever.com Peace Fest July 9-10, Peace River After a flood devastated Peace River in the early spring of 1997, a concert and party were planned to celebrate the rebuilding and resilience of the community. The tradition continues this year with a lineup including Jo Hikk Band, Prairie Oyster, C-Weed and The Irish Descendants. Twelve Foot Davis Ball Park, 780-624-2489, peacefest.com Alberta Open Sand Sculpture Championships July 17, Slave Lake Giant sandcastles are the main attraction 51
at this event, featuring old-fashioned family fun such as a watermelon-eating contest, tug-of-war, music, beach volleyball and more. Slave Lake, 1-800-661-2594, lesserslavelake.ca Blueberry Bluegrass And Country Music Festival July 30-August 1, Stony Plain Just west of Edmonton, this family-friendly celebration of music includes performances by Rhonda Vincent and The Rage, Dailey and Vincent and The Spinney Brothers. Jam sessions, lessons and demonstrations will also be available. Homecoming Park, 780-922-5527, blueberrybluegrass.com
AUGUST Stony Plain Cowboy Poetry And Country Music Festival August 13-15, Stony Plain A legendary historical tribute to cowboy poetry, music and art, featuring the finest
Summer is Here!
Devonian Botanic Garden 190 acres only minutes west of Edmonton Check the website to learn about our many summer events!
www.devonian.ualberta.ca | 780-987-3054 Located in Parkland County, 5 km north of Devon on Hwy. 60
52 • 2010 Road Trip Guide
artists from across Canada and the U.S. Homecoming Park, 780-668-5578, stonyplaincowboypoetry.com
SEPTEMBER Athabasca Country Harvest Gold Old Time Fiddlers Weekend September 4-5, Athabasca Marking 30 years of old-time fiddle competition. Athabasca, 780-675-9560, athabascacountry.com
Northern Alberta – Attractions Elk Island National Park Of Canada Open year-round Less than an hour away from Edmonton, this national park protects the wilderness of the aspen parkland, one of the most endangered habitats in Canada. Home to herds of free roaming plains bison, wood bison, moose, deer, and elk. Boasting over 250 species of birds, the park is a bird watcher’s paradise. Wildlife viewing, hiking and camping. Hwy 16 East, 780-922-5790, pc.gc.ca/pn-np/ab/elkisland/index_E.asp Lesser Slave Lake Bird Observatory Open year-round Northwest of Edmonton, on the east shoreline of Lesser Slave Lake, this observatory in Lesser Slave Lake Provincial Park is the second largest in Alberta. The lake and nearby Marten Mountain act as a natural barrier to migratory birds, funneling them along the shoreline. Annual Songbird Festival takes place June 6 and 7. 1-866-718-2473, lslbo.org/home.asp Métis Crossing May 22 - September 6 Located on the banks of the North Saskatchewan River in the historic Victoria District near Smoky Lake, Metis Crossing commemorates the site of a 6,000-yearwww.ffwdweekly.com
old campground and a major crossing point for fur traders on the North Saskatchewan River. A zipline was added in 2008. Special events include National Aboriginal Day (June 19), Métis Crossing Music Jamboree (July 24-25), and Métis Crossing Voyage (August 28-29). Hwy 855 and Victoria Trail, 780-656-2229, metiscrossing.com World’s First UFO Landing Pad Open year-round The world’s first and only UFO landing pad is located two-and-a-half hours east of Edmonton. Opened in 1967, the pad’s sign proclaims that all visitors “from Earth or otherwise” are welcome. Visit the spaceship-shaped tourist information booth and the UFO Interpretive Centre, where you can see photos of UFOs, cattle mutilations, crop circles and learn about sightings and ingenious hoaxes. St. Paul, 1-800-SEE-UFOS, town.stpaul.ab.ca
PIT STOP BANFF SUMMER ARTS FESTIVAL
May-September, Banff
Catch new work by choreographer Kevin O’Day, July 20-24.
Mountain Region – Events JUNE Banff Summer Arts Festival May-September, Banff Held from May to September in this inspiring mountain setting, this annual festival features music, dance, films, visual and literary arts, new media events and more. The Banff Centre, 1-800-413-8368, banffcentre.ca Grande Cache Wild River Rendezvous June 4-6, Grande Cache Paddler bring canoes and duckies (inflatable kayaks) for a wild ride on one of four major rivers. This family-friendly event offers free whitewater runs at varying levels of difficulty. Grande Cache, 1-780-827-3362, grandecache.ca Banff National Park Bike Fest June 17-20, Banff The third annual Banff National Park Bike Fest, sanctioned by the Alberta Bicycle www.seemagazine.com
PHOTO: BANFF CENTRE
Held from May to September amidst the inspiring scenery of the Rockies, this annual festival features music, dance, films, visual and literary arts, new media events and more. This is a great chance to see world-class artists pushing the boundaries in an intimate setting. 1-800-413-8368, banffcentre.ca 53
54 • 2010 Road Trip Guide
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Association (ABA), is a family-friendly event featuring seven road races through the streets of the town and throughout the park over the course of four days. Banff, 403-762-8421, banfflakelouise.com/events-and-festivals/ festivals/bike-fest Waterton Wildflower Festival June 19-26 Over 50 of Canada’s rare flowers grow in Waterton, 30 of which are only found in this park. From beargrass to orchids, this amazing diversity of wildflowers will be celebrated in the sixth annual Waterton Wildflower Festival. Guided flower walks, educational courses, art exhibits, workshops and entertainment. Waterton, 1-800-215-2395, watertonwildflowers.com
JULY Wild Mountain Music Festival July 16-18, Hinton This festival just north of Hinton, surrounded by the beauty of the Rockies, features two stages, beer gardens, food and art vendors, and children’s activities. This year’s headliners are Colin James and Wide Mouth Mason. Hinton, 780-865-0849, wildmountainmusicfest.ca Parks Day July 17 Parks Day is celebrated at national parks and historic sites across the country, and 2010 marks the International Year of Biodiversity, as well as the 125th anniversary of the creation of Banff, Canada’s first national park. Special events and programs will be held throughout the day. pc.gc.ca Pynestock July 22-23, Invermere A dozen local twentysomethings playing improvisational, creative music at Invermere’s Pynelogs Cultural Centre. An eclectic mix of rock, classical and “whothe-heck-knows-what.” Pynelogs Cultural Centre, www.seemagazine.com
250-342-4423, columbiavalleyarts.com Canadian Death Race July 30- August 2, Grande Cache For 10 years now, elite racers have come here to compete in one of the world’s toughest adventure races on foot. The 125 km course begins and ends on a plateau, passes over three mountain summits and includes a major river crossing at the spectacular Hell’s Gate canyon. Grande Cache, 1-888-827-3790, canadiandeathrace.com Canmore Folk Music Festival July 31-August 2, Canmore Alberta’s longest running folk festival is a family-oriented musical weekend held near the centre of this mountain town, just one hour west of Calgary. Performers include Ruthie Foster, Buffy Sainte-Marie, Le Vent du Nord, Vieux Farka Touré and Matt Andersen, among other. Centennial Park, 403-678-2524, canmorefolkfestival.com
What’s a road trip without music? Experience music in a completely new way with one of the world’s largest collections of keyboard instruments... right here in Alberta.
Tour times and more information online at:
www.cantos.ca
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AUGUST
SEPTEMBER
Banff National Park Dragon Boat Festival August 14-15, Banff More than 600 participants will row mythical Chinese dragon boats across the waters of scenic Lake Minnewanka near Banff for the third annual dragon boat festival. This event is also working to promote the Toward Zero Waste initiative to minimize its impact on the environment. Lake Minnewanka, 403-762-8421, banfflakelouise.com/events-and-festivals/ festivals/dragon-boat-festival
Canmore Highland Games September 5, Canmore The biggest Celtic Celebration in Alberta and the premier highland games in Western Canada, competitors come from all across Canada, the U.S. and Scotland to compete in their area of expertise, from highland dancing and drumming to heavy sports. Centennial Park, 403-678-9454, canmorehighlandgames.ca/index.html
Jasper Wildlife Festival August 28-29, Jasper National Park The sixth annual Wildlife Festival takes park visitors “behind the scenery” with demonstrations, guided hikes and tours, live interpretive theatre, an art project, storytelling, children’s nature activities and more. Various venues in Jasper National Park, pc.gc.ca/eng/pn-np/ab/jasper/index.aspx
Mountain Region – Attractions Banff National Park Canada’s first national park is worldfamous for its stunning scenery —valleys, mountains, glaciers, forests, meadows and rivers. Visit the Cave and Basin National Historic Site to learn about the origins of the park. Take a soak in the natural mineral waters of Banff Upper Hot
June 19 and 20, 2010
Swift Current, Saskatchewan
See fabulous art kites, giant creature kites, roaring stunt kites, battling fighter kites, soaring kite trains, and speeding kite buggies!
56 • 2010 Road Trip Guide
www.windscapekitefestival.ca www.ffwdweekly.com
Springs while enjoying the spectacular view of Mount Rundle. Activies include hiking, backpacking, canoeing, biking, fishing, climbing, etc. 403-762-1550, pc.gc.ca/pn-np/ab/banff/index_e.asp Fairmont Hot Springs Open year-round Explore the extensive resort with its hot pools or, for a more rustic experience without the admission fee, soak in the Historical Baths, an old stone bath house on a knoll above the resort’s main parking lot. A little farther up the hill are the “The Indian Baths,” a small pool where a spring emerges from the ground.
PIT STOP
Fairmont, 1-800-663-4979, bchotsprings.com/ Golden Museum Open year-round Stories, photographs & artifacts allow visitors to explore Kicking Horse Country from its early railway beginnings to its present mountain culture. Golden, (250) 344-5169, goldenbcmuseum.com Jasper National Park Known as the glacial jewel of the Rockies, this park offers cascading waterfalls, glaciers, alpine meadows, natural hot springs and more than 1,000 kilometres of hik-
WRITING-ON-STONE PROVINCIAL PARK Open year-round, Milk River
photo: Travel alberta
Just east of Milk River, this is one of the most important spiritual sites for the Niitsítapi or Blackfoot People. An archeological preserve within the park protects the largest concentration of rock art on the North American plains. Guided interpretive walks and tours are offered from mid-May until Labour Day, and camping is available. 403-647-2364, albertaparks.ca/siteinformation.aspx?id=177 www.seemagazine.com
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ing trails. This is one of the few remaining places in southern Canada that is home to a full range of carnivores, including grizzly bears, mountain lions, wolves and wolverines. Be sure to check out the townsite’s cemetery for an interesting read. Make your way to or from the park via the Icefields Parkway, is a 230-kilometre scenic drive between Jasper and Lake Louise alongside a chain of massive icefields, including North America’s most accessible glacier, the Athabasca. 780-852-6176, pc.gc.ca/pn-np/ab/jasper/index_e.asp Kananaskis Country Kananaskis Country is a 4,000 square kilometre multiple use area located in the foothills and mountains of the Canadian Rockies west of Calgary. It is a diverse landscape including provincial parks such as Peter Lougheed and the Canmore Nordic Centre, among others. Hiking, biking, horseback riding, birdwatching and camping. Barrier Lake, 403-673-3985; Canmore Nordic Centre, 403-678-2400; Peter Lougheed, 403-591-6322; tpr.alberta.ca/parks/kananaskis/ flashindex.asp Lussier Hot Springs Open year-round These natural hot springs are free of charge and popular with the locals. Take the Whiteswan forestry road off Hwy 93/95, then follow the maintained trail down to four rock pools alongside the Lussier River. The first pool is the hottest at 43C, and feeds down to the cooler lower pools. Whiteswan Lake Provincial Park, bchotsprings.com Northern Lights Wildlife Open year-round An educational centre offering interpretive talks about wolves and their role in a healthy ecosystem, as well as an opportunity to meet the pack. The wolves of Northern Lights were born and bred in captivity and have been adopted from various facilities, so they are not candidates 58 • 2010 Road Trip Guide
for release into the wild. Golden, 1-877-377-9653, northernlightswildlife.com Radium Hot Springs Open year-round Gaze up at the rock cliffs of Sinclair canyon from the spacious mineral hot pool and see if you can spot one of the bighorn sheep that make this canyon home. The hot mineral water here is odourless and clear — perfect for a relaxing soak. Radium, 1-800-767-1611, hotspring.ca Waterton Lakes National Park Mountains meet prairies and a chain of lakes, with plenty of opportunities for hiking, paddling and taking in the scenery. Waterton Lakes National Park, about three hours south of Calgary, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, an International Peace Park and a Biosphere Reserve — the only park in the world that has these three designations. watertonpark.com/index.htm Wolf Centre Open year-round An educational centre offering interpretive talks about wolves and their role in a healthy ecosystem, as well as an opportunity to meet the pack. The wolves of Northern Lights were born and bred in captivity and have been adopted from various facilities, so they are not candidates for release into the wild. Golden, 1-877-377-9653, northernlightswildlife.com Yoho National Park Named for a Cree word expressing awe, Yoho’s craggy peaks and steep rock faces posed an enormous challenge for Canada’s early explorers, and are responsible for the park’s many waterfalls, including the second highest in Canada, Takakkaw Falls. Other highlights are the turquoise-coloured Emerald Lake and Lake O’Hara, a natural rock bridge over the Kicking Horse River, hoodoos, and one of the world’s most important fossil finds, the Burgess Shale. 250-343-6783, pc.gc.ca/pn-np/bc/yoho/index_e.asp www.ffwdweekly.com
Calgary And Area – Attractions Aero Space Museum Of Calgary......................33 Calaway Park.........................................................33 Calgary Zoo............................................................33 Cantos Music Foundation...................................33 Chinese Cultural Centre.....................................34 Fish Creek Provincial Park..................................34 Fort Calgary............................................................34 Glenbow Museum................................................34 Heritage Park Historical Village.........................34 Inglewood Bird Sanctuary..................................34 Shaw Millennium Park..........................................37 Spruce Meadows..................................................37 Telus World Of Science – Calgary...................37 The Military Museums..........................................34 Calgary And Area – Events Afrikadey!................................................................27 BBQ on the Bow Festival...................................33 Calgary Folk Music Festival................................27 Calgary Fringe Festival........................................27 Calgary Highland Games....................................33 Calgary International Reggae Festival..............33 Calgary Jazz Festival............................................25 Calgary’s International Blues Festival...............27 Calgary Stampede................................................27 Canada Day Celebrations...................................27 Canadian Rockies International Rodeo...........27 Expo Latino.............................................................33 Fiestaval Latin Festival.........................................27 Globalfest...............................................................33 www.seemagazine.com
Listings Index
Hoodoos, Writing-on-Stone Provincial Park
Photo: Travel Alberta
Shakespeare In The Park....................................27 Sled Island Film Festival......................................25 Sled Island Music & Arts Festival......................25 Central Alberta – Attractions Alberta Prairie Railway Excursions....................50 Atlas Coal Mine National Historic Site.............50 Big Valley Creation Science Museum..............50 Dinosaur Provincial Park.....................................50 Gopher Hole Museum.........................................50 Lacombe Corn Maze............................................50 Reynolds Alberta Museum.................................. 51 Royal Tyrrell Museum........................................... 51 Central Alberta – Events Big Valley Jamboree.............................................49 Canadian Badlands Passion Play.....................49 Centrefest...............................................................49 Jazz at the Lake Festival......................................49 Motion Notion........................................................49 Mountain View Music Festival............................49 Mukwah Jamboree................................................49 Ponoka Stampede................................................ 47 Thunder in the Valley Drag Race.......................49 Vegreville Pysanka Days......................................49 Westerner Days Fair & Exposition.....................49 Edmonton And Area – Attractions Art Gallery of Alberta...........................................43 Canadian Petroleum Discovery Centre...........43 Castrol Raceway Street Legal Drags...............43 Fort Edmonton Park..............................................43
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Great Divide Waterfall.........................................43 John Janzen Nature Centre.................................43 Old Strathcona Farmers’ Market.......................44 Royal Alberta Museum.........................................44 Telus World Of Science – Edmonton..............44 Valley Zoo...............................................................44 Edmonton And Area – Events Animethon............................................................... 41 Capital Ex Festival 2010.....................................39 Cariwest.................................................................. 41 Edmonton Dragon Boat Festival.......................42 Edmonton Dreamspeakers Festival..................37 Edmonton Improvaganza Theatre Festival.......37 Edmonton International Fringe Theatre Festival....................................42 Edmonton International Jazz Festival.......................................................37 Edmonton Street Performers Festival..............39 Freewill Shakespeare Festival............................37 Harvest of the Past and Taste of Heritage Food Festival....................42 Honda Indy Edmonton.........................................39 Labatt Blues Festival............................................42 Nextfest...................................................................37 Northern Alberta International Children’s Festival............................................37 Old Strathcona Street Fair and Fashion Extravaganza......................................39 Sobey’s Symphony Under The Sky...................42 The Edmonton Works Art Festival.....................37 Mountain Region – Attractions Banff National Park...............................................56 Fairmont Hot Springs...........................................57 Golden Museum....................................................57 Jasper National Park.............................................57 Kananaskis Country..............................................58 Lussier Hot Springs..............................................58 Northern Lights Wildlife Wolf Centre...............58 Radium Hot Springs.............................................58 Waterton Lakes National Park...........................58 Yoho National Park...............................................58 Mountain Region – Events Banff National Park Bike Fest............................53 Banff National Park Dragon Boat Festival.......56 Banff Summer Arts Festival................................53 Canadian Death Race..........................................55 Canmore Folk Music Festival.............................55 Canmore Highland Games.................................56 Grande Cache Wild River Rendezvous...........53 Jasper Wildlife Festival........................................56
60 • 2010 Road Trip Guide
Parks Day................................................................55 Pynestock...............................................................55 Waterton Wildflower Festival.............................53 Wild Mountain Music Festival............................55 Northern Alberta – Attractions Elk Island National Park Of Canada.................52 Lesser Slave Lake Bird Observatory................52 Métis Crossing......................................................52 World’s First UFO Landing Pad........................53 Northern Alberta – Events Alberta Open Sand Sculpture Championships................................................. 51 Astral Harvest........................................................ 51 Athabasca Country Harvest Gold Old Time Fiddlers Weekend..........................52 Athabasca Magnificent River Rats Festival..... 51 Blueberry Bluegrass and Country Music Festival...................................52 Boonstock.............................................................. 51 Bud Country Fever Music Festival.................... 51 North Country Fair................................................ 51 Peace Fest.............................................................. 51 Stony Plain Cowboy Poetry and Country Music Festival...........................52 Southern Alberta – Attractions Alberta Birds of Prey Foundation......................45 Bar U Ranch...........................................................45 Bellevue Underground Mine Tour......................46 Blackfoot Crossing Historical Park...................46 Cypress Hills Interprovincial Park.....................46 Fort Museum of the North West Mounted Police.......................... 47 Galt Museum & Archives..................................... 47 Head-Smashed-In Buffalo Jump....................... 47 Medicine Hat Clay Industries National Historic District................................ 47 Nikka Yuko Japanese Garden............................ 47 The Frank Slide Interpretive Centre..................46 Writing-On-Stone Provincial Park.................... 47 Southern Alberta – Events Alberta International Air Show...........................45 Medicine Hat Jazz Festival..................................44 South Country Fair...............................................44 The Gathering — Cowboy Poetry.....................44 The Great Canadian Barn Dance Music Festival...................................................44 Vulcan Spock Days...............................................44 Whoop-Up Days...................................................45 World Chicken Dance Championships...........44 www.ffwdweekly.com
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