SYNOPTIC TABLES
WINTER 2013 grivel.com
S • HIGHLIGHTS • HIGHLIGHTS • HIGHL 1. ANTIBOTT
2. LIGHTNESS
When using crampons on step taken and it springs back snowy terrain an anti-balling when the foot is raised. device is absolutely essential As the alpinist walks the snow as it stops the snow building up that has built up between the between the crampons’ points points is simply ejected, with no that would otherwise increase extra effort and it works every the risk of slipping. time in all situations. GRIVEL was the first company No other system works in any in the world to supply all their way as efficiently as GRIVEL’s. crampons with an anti-balling device, convinced that it is an indispensable safety factor. This new pro-active dynamic system was invented and WITHOUT patented by GRIVEL in 2003. The alpinist’s weight puts a downward pressure on the device with every
Lightness is the ultimate challenge. It’s not just a question of the laws of gravity. Everybody would love to shrug off the weight of daily life, reducing its burden. It’s Man’s ultimate aspiration. Hearts beat faster on hearing the word. Inhaling it makes heads spin. This breath of freedom makes life appear more “up there” than “down here”. GRIVEL has always followed the holy grail of lightness according to the philosophy: lighter means faster means safer. Our composite Quantum ice axes are the lightest in the world, lighter than those in carbon fibre,
lighter than those made with any other material. Our new Air Tech helmet is the best compromise between weight, safety and aeration.
WITH
3. HOT DROP FORGING The fibres in steel are internally aligned in a random sequence, these can be re-aligned in which ever direction we want when the steel is heated to a certain temperature and then “ironed out” by beating it and forcing it into the desired alignment. This operation, followed up by heat treatment (what was once
_2
4. COMPOSITE MATERIALS known as “tempering” that fixed permanently the internal structure), is precisely known as “hot forging”. It is how the best characteristics and the desired form are obtained from steel. No other process has ever, and ever will, better this one: quiz a specialist in metallurgy and he’ll confirm it.
made in italy with solar energy
Composite materials (or composites for short) are engineered materials made from two or more constituent materials with significantly different physical or chemical properties. These materials do not occur in nature, but are the result of a three dimensional combination of at least two chemically diverse materials with a separate interface. The new combination has physical/chemical properties not found in the original materials. This technology is used to produce the Quantum range of ice axes combining light alloy with carbon fibre. The combination represents the cutting edge today in the manufacture of mountaineering equipment.
The same philosophy, also used in sails technology, is applied in the VX21 material utilized for manufacturing our Alpine range of rucksacks where the Cordura fabric used for the basic structure is reinforced with netting in Dacron, increasing the material’s mechanics without making it heavier.
LIGHTS • HIGHLI FOCUS
Product images are indicative and not binding. All the published specifications are subject to change without notice.
ON
VIA FERRATA SET NEW PROTECTION SYSTEM FOR VIA FERRATA
SHUTTLE VERSATILE PLATE WITH MULTIPLE CONNECTING OPTIONS
• Safe carabiners with back protection to avoid accidental opening • Energy absorption system to limit impact in case of fall • Extendable lanyards with separate elastic inside • Extra central loop for resting
• Belay device for all rope diameters, even for frozen ones • Rappelling device with thin-rope and single-rope options • Multiple purpose anchor point • Anchor device for rescue
TRADITIONALLY INNOVATIVE SINCE 1818
Twistlock version (3 movements) of our Omega carabiner, ideal for belay and rappel.
K6T
MAGO TRAIL the bag to RUN with
MAGO FREERIDE the bag to SKIING with
Single shoulder strap allowing maximum freedom of movement while running Easy to turn it around your shoulders to access load Possibility to use it as a hip belt Concealable pocket for water bottle
Single shoulder strap allowing maximum freedom of movement while skiing Easy to turn it around your shoulders to go on chairlifts or to access load Possibility to carry skis Concealable pocket for probe Grivel Steel Blade shovel included
Compact and symmetrical swivel to avoid tangling up the ropes. Smooth turning and versatile use.
www.grivel.com
ROLL 3_
INNOVATION TIMELINE 1929
1909
Henry’s son Laurent came up with the brilliant invention of the two front points, allowing climbers to stand face on whilst attacking the steep ice and snow gradients.
The English engineer Oscar Eckenstein was received with similar scepticism when he asked Henry Grivel to manufacture the first modern crampon in history.
1936
Amato Grivel, Laurent’s younger brother, using the Chromolly alloy (Nickel-ChromeMolybdenum), created a really strong crampon, thinner and lighter than the others: 360 grams a pair. These crampons, the Super Leggero Grivel, have been used to conquer the 3 highest peaks in the world, the Everest, the K2, and the Kangchenjunga.
Everest
1982
The Grivel family of blacksmiths, started to transform their production of agricultural tools in what would later become mountain equipment. So in a sea of scepticism the first ice axe was born.
1986
Kanchenjionga
New management led by Gioachino Gobbi was convinced that over a hundred years of tradition and conquests, the brand name and the company’s location were a recipe for future success.
Grivel’s Super Courmayeur system, with its spare and interchangeable picks and shovels, established itself as market leader.
ONCE UPON A TIME IN 1818 _4
K2
made in italy with solar energy
1994
Grivel presented it different bindin all types of boot The use of plasti find m
1993
Rambo c crampon platform Forged fr added for the imp
1986
GRIVE fiber sha
Grivel introduces X-BLADE the first one piece ice axe specifically designed for ice climbing.
2012 Flat, one piece, specifically designed for ice climbing.
2010
.
ts new crampons with four ng systems, suitable for ts and different functions. ic for the first time would many imitators!
1996
2007
1998
crampon: a rigid n with a stable and no vibrations. ront points were e first time, a huge provement.
EL first carbon aft in the world!
The Machine: the ice axe that revolutionised the design of technical tools. From now on this was the shape that set the standard for everyone!.
2003
In 1998 experience gained from competitions spread the idea of climbing without leashes, Grivel was the first to present an ice axe with a crook in it aiding leashless climbing: top machine.
2006 GRIVEL resolves the problem of snow build up under crampons with the first pro-active anti-balling plate. This gets rid of the snow with every step taken, using its flexibility and the alpinist’s movement. Other manufacturers have tried to find an alternative to this Grivel patent but the truth is that no other real alternative exists!
www.grivel.com
2004
GRIVEL installs a solar paneled roof and starts to produce its goods with solar energy.
The new Quantum ice axe range continues this cutting edge tradition introducing a carbon composite material used in the aerospace industry. Our composite Quantum ice axes are the lightest in the world, lighter than those in carbon fibre, lighter than those made with any other material. The ultra lightweight Matrix ice axes and Rambo evolution 4 crampons: easier to fit, lighter and better for the latest generation’s new posturing. Monster and its flexible shaft appears in. Manic competitioners, boulderers, dry toolers and total-dry fanatics all adopt Monster that isn’t just a step forward in ice axes but an extremely efficient extension of hands for anchoring on the most difficult terrains.
5_
BLADE
SHOVEL HAMMER
CE-SHAFT RESISTANCE KG
SHAF
HAUTE ROUTE
Carbon Steel
Classical negative
Small Shovel
280 Kg b
-
NEPAL S.A. NEPAL S.A. PLUS
Carbon Steel
Classical negative
Shovel
280 Kg b
Rubb Nepa S.A. pl
G1 G1 PLUS
Carbon Steel
Classical neutral
Shovel
280 Kg b
Rubb G1 plu
AIR TECH RACING S.A.
Chromoly Steel
Classical positive
Shovel
280 Kg b
-
AIR TECH evo AIR TECH hammer
Chromoly Steel
Classical positive
Hammer
AIR TECH CARBON
Chromoly Steel
JORASSES 2.0
ICE AXES
MADE FROM HOT FORGED
T
Rubb
Classical positive
Shovel
400 Kg
Rubb
Chromoly Steel
Classical positive
Shovel
400 Kg
Rubb
MONTE BIANCO
Chromoly Steel
Classical negative
Shovel
280 Kg b
carbo wood
MATRIX LIGHT MATRIX TECH
Chromoly Steel
Changeable + Reverse positive
Hammer
400 Kg
Shovel
T
Rubb
QUANTUM LIGHT QUANTUM TECH
Chromoly Steel
Changeable + Reverse positive
Hammer
280 Kg b
Carbo compos + rubb
X-MONSTER
Chromoly Steel
Changeable + Reverse positive
Hammer Shovel
CE PPE 2
Plast + rubb
X-BLADE
Chromoly Steel
Reverse positive
-
CE PPE 2
Plast + rubb
SPECIAL
400 Kg
Shovel
_6
made in italy with solar energy
Shovel
T
T
FT
WEIGHT
SIZE CM
318 g 11,2 oz
53-58
ber al lus
480 g 16,9 oz
58-66-74
ber us
475 g 16,7 oz
58-66-74
400 g 14,1 oz
48-53-58 66-74
ber
473 g 16,6 oz
48-53 58-66 48-53
ber
473 g 16,6 oz
48-53 58-66
ber
495 g 17,4 oz
48-53 58-66
on d
602 g 21,2 oz
65-75
ber
560 g 19,7 oz
50
on site ber
518 g 18,3 oz
50
tic ber
695 g 24,5 oz
47
tic ber
595 g 20,98 oz
47
RANGE OF USE
ICE AXES RANGE OF USE In the past ice axes and crampons had to be very versatile: there was only one type, used for everything. Now there’s a different model for every sub-discipline: for beginners and for experts, for ski touring and snowboarding, for high altitude and for the high stresses of “dry tooling” and competition. The diagram below illustrates the different requirements: from the easiest at the bottom to the most technical at the top (the letters are repeated in the description of every product). This is so that everyone can choose the product that is most appropriate: yellow denotes the suggested use and green the perfect one. A for ski touring, B and C for traverses and easy climbs, D and E for classical and technical alpinism, F and G for ice falls and goulottes, G and H for modern mixed, dry tooling and competition.
Master Alloy
Force Carbon
Grivel has for nearly 200 years led the development of Ice Climbing equipment, but to move ahead in this rapidly changing “fast &furious” new age of technology and materials, we decided to make a radical improvement in our approach to development. This is the reason we decided to create a new dept. a real Laboratory for Development, a place where we can explore the possible and beyond. With all these recent changes in materials and design we chose to invest in this bright future, brought about by mixed climbing, competition and rising standards. www.grivel.com
Force Alloy To head this new department we have brought in a new face, Stefano Azzali a man devoted to climbing and climbing equipment, no stranger to high tech radical materials. Stefano’s work in this field of new technologies and avantgarde design qualifies him to lead “Grivel’s Racing Development” (Grivel Reparto Corse). It’s almost second nature to a man coming from Modena, the home of design, engineering and above all “Speed”. We look forward to the future as we are proud of our past. 7_
CRAMPONS
MADE FROM
3D STAMP
FRONT POINTS
RIGID
SEMI RIGID
G1
10
Carbon Steel
2
G10
10
Chromoly Steel
2
G10 WIDE
10
Chromoly Steel
2
AIR TECH
10 + 2
Chromoly Steel
2
AIR TECH LIGHT
10 + 2
Light Alloy
2
G12
12
Chromoly Steel
2
G14
11 - 12
Chromoly Steel
forged 1-2
G22
12
Chromoly Steel
forged 2
11 - 12
Chromoly Steel
forged 1-2
11
Chromoly Steel
forged 1
HAUTE ROUTE
10
Front: carbon steel Rear: light alloy
2
Flex
RACE
10
Light Alloy
2
Flex
RAMBO 4 G 20
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NUMBER POINTS
made in italy with solar energy
Flex
ASYMMETRIC
WEIGHT
730 g 25,7 oz w/antibott
820 g 28,9 oz w/antibott
820 g 28,9 ozs w/antibott
RANGE BOOT SIZE
36 44
New-matic New-classic
35 46
New-matic New-classic
35 46
New-classic
35 46
Cramp-o-matic New-matic New-classic
35 46
New-matic New-classic
36 47
Cramp-o-matic New-matic New-classic
36 47
Cramp-o-matic New matic
790 g
(w/antibott 920)
27,8 oz
BINDING SYSTEM
(w/antibott 32,4)
ANTIBOTT
TUV-CE
RANGE OF USE
A well known system which relies on a nylon speed lever at the rear and a stainless steel front bale to hold the boot. Quick to put on, these bindings are perfect for plastic mountaineering boots that have a rigid sole and substantial heel and toe welts. The stainless steel safety strap, which was invented by Grivel, is permanently mounted on the front bale and prevents total loss of the crampon should it be forced off of the boot.
CRAMP-O-MATIC An evolution of the Cramp-O-Matic system which utilizes the C-O-M rear bale and lever. The plastic harness system is hinged from two front posts which retain the boot securely even if it has a shallow, worn front welt or overboots are being used. It is a simple and efficient binding, which is far more versatile than the original Cramp-O-Matic style. The harness is made from the strongest, most durable plastic available, which was developed for the manufacture of alpine ski bindings. Obviously it cannot last forever, so please, after long and severe use replace the harness the same way you would resole trekking boots or rock climbing shoes.
455 g
(w/antibott 590)
16 oz
NEW-MATIC An evolution of the Classic binding. Both front and rear plastic harnesses are hinged from their respective retention posts and may be “opened” to facilitate attachment to the boot, then closed securely once the boot is inside. The single strap closure system is so simple we may not need to provide instructions; the New Classic is therefore ideal for rental programs and fi rst time users. This system is simple and reliable, quick and easy, but it does take up a bit more space in the rucksack.
(w/antibott 20,8)
900 g
(w/antibott 1040)
31,7 oz
(w/antibott 36,7)
1095 g
(w/antibott 1240)
38,6 oz
NEW-CLASSIC
(w/antibott 43,7)
925 g 32,6 oz
38 48
Cramp-o-matic New matic
1165 g 41 oz
38 48
Cramp-o-matic
794 g 28 oz
37 48
Cramp-o-matic
558 g 19,7 oz
35 46
Ski-matic
373 g 13,2 oz
35 45
Ski-race
w/antibott
BINDINGS
Totally new binding system specific for ski touring. It considers the technical needs of users together with the search of simplicity and lightness. The new front bail is “bomb proof” because it adapts easily and perfectly to the modern ski touring boots. Compact storage and minimum weight for transportation. Warning: the front binding fi ts modern plastic ski touring boots and it is not guaranteed for traditional mountain boots.
SKI-MATIC
RANGE OF USE
Competition
www.grivel.com
9_
ACCESSORIES VALTER BAR
16cm 19cm LONG LEASH
AXE GUARD
FLEX BAR
SHOVEL
TWIN BAR
16cm or 19cm EASY SLIDER 2.0
TRIGGER
SINGLE SPRING 2.0
DOUBLE SPRING
DOUBLE SPRING 2.0
CRAMPONS SAFE
CRAMPONS CROWN
ANTIBOTT
COVER BLADE
SPIDER
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made in italy with solar energy
ROCK ACCESSORIES 2x8
SHUTTLE
MASTER
MASTER PRO
ROLL
EASY CLIP
VIA FERRATA SET
CHALK BAG
LOVE 01
BOULDER CHALK BAG
CRASH PAD
open size: 125x90cm folded size: 2,5x90cm
www.grivel.com
3500 g 123,4 oz
nylon
11 _
GRIVEL live on the field
TOR DES GEANTS The
Tor des Géants is the first and only race to combine long distance with the individual style of runners: the organisation does not impose any compulsory stages, and the winner will be the runner who completes the race in the shortest time, making his or her own decisions on when and how long to stop for rest and refreshment. The Tor des Géants is the first race of this kind to cover an entire region, running along its spectacular paths at the foot of the highest Four-Thousanders in the Alps and through the Gran Paradiso Natural Park and the Mont Avic Regional Park. All of these particular features help make this such a unique, inimitable race.
The route will run along the Alta Via 1 and Alta Via 2 of the Valle d’Aosta, with the start and finishing line in Courmayeur, and will cover a total of around 336km (200 miles), with a positive altitude range of 24,000 metres. The landscape at the foot of the region’s Four-Thousanders makes the route especially spectacular.
GRIVEL team before race start - PH: Lorenzo Belfrond
As a company born in this same region on the feet of Mont Blanc, with so much care for our surroundings and environment that we have gone to the extent of producing with solar energy, it is with great pleasure to promote and support such event.
www.tordesgeants.it
2012 TDG start - PH: Lorenzo Belfrond
THE TRACK Along the trail there will be a number of rest, rescue and refreshment points, as well as seven larger bases that will divide the route up into seven sectors: • Courmayeur – Valgrisenche • Valgrisenche-Cogne • Cogne-Donnas • Donnas Gressoney-St Jean • Gressoney St Jean-Valtournenche
49 km 3996 D+ 56 km 4141 D+ 44 km 3348 D+ 53 km 4107 D+ 39 km 2601 D+
• Valtournenche-Ollomont • Ollomont – Courmayeur
44 km 2702 D+ 48 km 2880 D+
Davide Manolino and Paolo Vezzaro at Arpettaz (Courmayeur) - PH: Lorenzo Belfrond
_ 12
made in italy with solar energy
Virgin® founder on top of Mont Blanc equipped by GRIVEL
THE BIG CHANGE
The
Branson family are well known for their daring exploits, and close friend Princess Beatrice of York, daughter of Prince Andrew and Sarah Ferguson, isn’t one to shy away from a challenge either. So the idea of climbing Mont Blanc, Europe’s highest mountain, to launch Big Change Charitable Trust, a startup charity that supports young people, was clearly one they couldn’t resist.
The six friends are not strangers to this kind of event and in 2010 they roped 34 friends together and successfully completed the London Marathon all tied together as a giant caterpillar.
They were so inspired by the event that they decided to do something about it and Big Change was born.
After months of preparation and training on a climbing wall in London the expedition was up and running and so was the team of climbers: Holly and Sam Branson, their Dad, Virgin boss Sir Richard Branson, Sam’s fiancee Isabella Calthorpe, Sam Richardson and Phil Nevin. Negotiating the effects of altitude was never easy and even though none of the group are experienced alpinists, on Friday September 7th all but one of the team made www.grivel.com
the summit!
Grivel was technical supplier for the
Big Climb and is proud to have been part of such an incredible challenge – helping young people achieve their
potential is a worthy cause that we are delighted to support.
To find out more about Big Change:
www.bigchangecharitabletrust.org
13 _
The common history of man and energy
YES, IT CAN BE DONE We are facing a crucial moment in history where humanity has to decide for its future. As the world becomes more fragile and independent at the same time, future faces both great risks and great promises. In order to properly move forward we have to take into account that, within a marvelous difference of cultures and forms, we are a big human family and a single terrestrial community with a common destiny. We have to stand together to bring forward a unified sustainable society, based on respect for nature, universal
The
history of man and energy on this planet are the same. For thousands of years humanity didn’t realize that it was energy, and especially solar energy, allowing life on our planet: warmth and photosynthesis that allowed grass, fruits and animal life to grow.
Then fossil energy came along: carbon, petrol, crude oil replaced the sun with the same functions but with two major drawbacks: these sources of energy aren’t limitless and they produce a big amount of pollution.
and common peace.. Leonardo Boff
Today, for the first time, humanity is conscious of these problems and yet again, for the first time, it has a choice.
With a heart beating for the mountains and the environment, named best entrepreneur in Val d’Aosta in 2009,
GIOACHINO GOBBI
runs Grivel, the oldest Italian manufacturer of mountaineering, climbing and outdoor equipment.
_ 14
human rights, economical justice
made in italy with solar energy
Grivel asked itself the right questions and, as a result, it accepted to condition its development within the maximum possible respect of what we see every morning on our way to work: the Mont Blanc, the Jorasses, the “Dente del Gigante” (the Giant’s tooth). We are aware of being very privileged and therefore we try to give back a part of what we received.
We’d like to define our choices as a stool with 3 legs. The three legs of equilibrium.
1 The first leg: The choice of energy sources
We were already more than happy for the Hydro-Electrical energy plan that our Valley had put in place, which we were using for our production process. We then decided to go one step further and start producing clean energy exceeding our needs, in order to also sell the same clean energy. Why Photovoltaic?
First, because it uses an unlimited energy source and it does not produce waste.
Second, because hosting the solar panels on the roof of our factory avoids the usage of other natural ground as the factory is already up and running. We have impeccably isolated the 7,000 sqm roof to achieve a very high thermal efficiency of the whole building, then we have covered it with solar panels. Each one perfectly integrated with the structure to limit visual impact on the surroundings. The Sun has now been active for a few billion years and each day it sends to the Earth enough energy to fulfill a year’s demand of the whole planet. Photovoltaic technology transforms sunlight into
electrical energy through the use of semiconductor materials, such as silicon. These materials generate electricity when hit by sunlight.
2 The second leg: save up on land usage, a very limited resource in mountain areas The available land on high grounds is actually much less than people think when they look from the peak of a mountain where sight runs wild through endless landscapes. Usable space for agriculture, human settlements and production activities is very scarce and it should be looked after by any means possible. Past generations were much more aware of this and built their settlements in very little communities (the little mountain villages we all love so much) and they had an incredible respect for orography and nature. Our generation at the moment is using up more space than the sum of all the ones before... For our panels, we used up space that was already taken, our roof. Not a single inch of field was taken from agriculture, stock and to the eye pleasure of the travelers that each year visit our beautiful valley. Recycle and re-usage will be the laws of the future, not consumption nor occupation.
3 The third leg: MADE IN ITALY.
We want to keep alive and respect our roots, because just like a plant dries out and die without roots, we could end up the same way.... The third leg of our program comes from our will to continue a tradition that is born along with Alpinism itself. In 1818, once
SOME NUMBERS
The roof of the factory is around 7000 square meters, and the solar panels are 3656. Our solar panels generate around 516 Kwp
They produce the equivalent of the energy consumption of 194 families
They save the planet ‘s air of 806 Kg of CO2, in the atmosphere is the equivalent of a car traveling 5.800Km
During their 25-year lifecycle, they will produce around 12.000.000 KWh, which would cover the needs of one family for 4.200 years Every year they will save 1.173 barrels of oil
www.grivel.com
over with the Napoleonic madness that ravaged Europe, Grivel blacksmiths started modifying their production of agricultural tools into a new direction, the same that drove a new type of tourists to climb the mountains. From that moment onward, the metal heated and forged at the feet of Mont Blanc was transformed into Ice Axes, Crampons and pitons. This know how should never be lost, as it was born when life in the mountains wasn’t as easy as today, and people had to emigrate to easier environments. Many in the past have believed in our potential for alpinism, skiing and tourism. That same generation of people is the one behind the birth of Courmayeur and its treasure. We have done so much because so much was left to us. It is common to say: if we have seen further it is only by standing on the shoulders of giants. A better economical condition should never justify destroying a know how, born step after step and fueled by snow covered peaks, that has conditioned the mind and body of people for many generations, whose last thought at night was of the mountains and on how to reach their top. We are very well aware of the fact that our essence can never be in a place where Mont Blanc cannot be admired and where the people do not understand the difficulty of the mountains and on the other hand find climbing a waste of time. From this exact and eradicated belief comes our philosophy of: Made in Italy Furthermore, we have always been conscious that road transportation is responsible for a significant part of the world pollution. Air transport plays a big part on it too, but we have also learned that sea transport (which we normally see as an acceptable solution) is responsible for the 18-30% of the worldwide pollution of nitrogen oxide and of 9% of the sulphur oxide levels.
Conclusion: We’d like to show the way to the many that are uncertain. These choices come from our internal belief that better economic conditions should never justify destroying know how and experience, and that there are no better places to be inspired in improving mountain equipment.
We have to respect our Earth and the best message we can leave for the future generations and for the whole world is: yes, it can be done. Being competitive while respecting the environment can be done. Therefore it must be done!
15 _
GRIVEL WINS UIAA ICE WORLD CUP
Tomilov
Ranking women lead
Ranking men lead
1. Rainer Angelika 2. Tolokonina Maria 3. Gallyamova Anna 4. Hrozova Lucie 5. Shin Woon Seon
1. Tomilov Maxim 2. Tomilov Alexey 3. Park Heeyong 4. Sypavin Valentyn 5. Lyulyukin Ivan
Rainer
IWC...Ice World Cup signatured by Grivel, again!
This year Grivel’s Ice team has gained the first place in both men&women lead disciplines of the Ice World Cup, the Formula 1 of Ice has yet been won by Grivel again! Races started in Cheongsong,Korea the 1415th of January, a quick headstart for our athletes saw
_ 16
Tomilov
them in first place from day one. Saas Fee,Switzerland (19-21 Jan), Champagny en Vanoise, France, (2-4 Feb), Busteni, Romania. (9-11 Feb) and the big final this weekend in Kirov! Throughout the circuit all the structures were unbelievable ranging from Urban to deep Forest Ice Monsters (Champagny en Vanoise), and a 100something athletes batt-
ling out on these Ice Beasts!
From day one Maxim Tomilov showed to be in great shape resulting in crushing victories and a firm World Title, between the women Maria Tolokonina and Angelika Reiner were great favorites from the start, just yesterday the title was battled out on the Ice of Kirov, where Angelika Proved to be in better shape and brought home the title!
made in italy with solar energy
Rainer
A mention of great merit also goes to Alexey Tomilov 2nd Overall Lead, Maria Tolokonina 2nd overall Lead.
Grivel is very proud of all its athletes and of its weapons made available to win these monstrous ice battles!
GRIVEL BECOMES UIAA SPONSOR G
rivel, one of the world’s leading mountaineering equipment manufacturers, has become one of the sponsors of the UIAA (International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation). “Grivel and UIAA have the same environmental and ethical goals,” said Grivel’s owner Gioachino Gobbi about the sponsorship deal that was signed in March. “This is why Grivel made the decision to become partner of the worldwide UIAA program.” “We want to maintain our traditions, keeping in touch with our mountains and the men who challenge them,” said
Gobbi. Grivel is one of the oldest companies in the world to produce mountaineering equipment and was established in 1818 in Courmayeur at the foot of Mont Blanc, the highest mountain in the Alps. Athletes sponsored by Grivel include Angelika Rainer (Italy) and Maxim Tomilov (Russia), both overall champions in the Men and Women’s Lead discipline during the 2012 UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup tour. Grivel’s commitment to environmental sustainability includes minimizing waste, choosing environmentally friendly technologies to manufacture its products and
taking into account the life cycle of a product including recycling. Two years ago the company moved into a bigger facility that produces all it’s energy needs through solar energy. The UIAA was founded in 1932 and has 80 member associations in 50 countries representing about 1.3 million people. The organization’s mission is to promote the growth and protection of mountaineering and climbing worldwide, advance safe and ethical mountain practices and promote responsible access, culture and environmental protection.
the work of its commissions, which make recommendations, set policy and advocate on behalf of the mountaineering community. The UIAA is also recognized by the International Olympic Committee for mountaineering and natural surface climbing.
UIAA: International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation. His mission is to promote the growth and protection of mountaineering and climbing worldwide, advance safe and ethical mountain practices.
The UIAA operates through
REPARTO CORSE With a strong double take in the IWC 2012 Grivel gives birth to it’s official Ice Climbing Team “Reaparto Corse”
Angelika Rainer (ITA) Maxim Tomilov(RUS) both 2012 Iwc Lead world champions, Maria Tolokonina , Alexey Tomilov and Nikolay Kuzovley all from Russia, the swiss Petra Klinger and the other Italian Mauro Dorigatti The main aim of the team, is putting together a group of top athletes to train compete and have serious fun... Team manager is Marco Servalli from Bergamo. A guy full of pas-
sion for the ice world, here’s his intro: I am Marco Servalli, I am the service and aftermarket operations manager for a company that produces machinery for the gas industry. Because of my great passion for Ice Climbing and Drytooling I decided to enter, The Italian Cup “Coppa Italia” and the Alpin Cup, with some interesting results” . At the moment I accompany my girlfriend, Angelika Rainer, in all her Ice World Cup stops and along her expeditions. It has been a few years now , that my dream is working in the ice climbing/ rock climbing sector. Grivel has
www.grivel.com
now given me the possibility to form and follow close , the first International Team “Reparto Corse” I am very happy that this project has been given the green light and I am even more happy to make it happen with all of you. The outcome of this epic team choice is all in his hands! To each and every one of our Athletes and to Marco, Grivel wishes all the best! Hoping for a season of success, knowing as a fact that, the best adventures are born from mutual friendship an passions.
17 _
Courmayeur alpine guide, Mont Blanc - PH: Lorenzo Belfrond
ALPINE RUCKSACKS FRENEY 40 FRENEY 30
ALPINE RUCKSACKS - LIGHTEST SERIES
VOLUME WEIGHT FABRIC BACK PANEL SKI HOLDER ICE AXE HOLDER POLES HOLDER
_ 18
VOLUME WEIGHT FABRIC BACK PANEL SKI HOLDER ICE AXE HOLDER POLES HOLDER
L 40 1695g - 59,7oz
ALPINE 45 ALPINE 35
ECCLES 38
L 30 1385g . 48,8oz
L 45 1695g . 69,87oz
L 38 1290g . 45,5oz
L 35 1385g . 48,8oz
eco fabric ergonomic butterlfy
eco fabric ergonomic butterlfy
polyant vx21 + carbon composite
2 lateral
2 lateral
2 lateral
2 sheath system
2 sheath system
2+2 on waistbelt
1 frontal + 1 lateral
1 frontal + 1 lateral
ergonomic Butterfly
TOFANE 45
LAVAREDO 35
BRENTA 30
L 45 1340g - 47,3oz
L 35 1260g - 44,4oz
L 30 1130g - 39,9oz
L 28 730g - 25,7oz
light eco fabric
light eco fabric
light eco fabric
light eco fabric
ventilated AirTech
ventilated AirTech
ventilated AirTech
Padded
2 lateral 2 classic + 2 tech
2 lateral 2 classic + 2 tech
2 classic + 2 tech
light eco fabric 1 classic + 2 tech
1 frontal
1 frontal
1 frontal
1 frontal
made in italy with solar energy
MARMOLADA
ALPINE RUCKSACKS - WOMEN LINE
FRENEY 30 W
ECCLES 28 W
SKI RUCKSACK MARBREES 20 MARBREES 30 L 20 L 30 VOLUME 1187g 41,8 oz 1233g - 43,4 oz WEIGHT eco fabric FABRIC front cushion BACK PANEL 1 frontal . 2 lateral SKI HOLDER 1 frontal SURF SLOT 1 frontal ICE AXE HOLDER 1 frontal POLES HOLDER
higher chest strap above the breast area
cm 48
cm 45
shorter and slimmer shoulders above breast
Man
shorter back shorter belt with conical trunk to fit feminine pelvis
Woman
1 17
19
16 18
2
4
3
15 5
MADE FROM 100% recycled materials
6 14
7
8
• Conserves petroleum resources • Significant reduce of CO2 emissions • Reduces energy consumption • Identical quality as regular polyester yarn made from petroleum
13
10
12
4
Mechanical recycling
Ski renforcement
• More environmental friendly method • Limited in waste resources • Law material quality issue is the key of fiber quality
11
9
Padded removable or fix cover or mesh ventilated belt
Ice axe holder
(PET bottles & fiber products) Features
ventilatedpadded shoulders
chest strap
helmet holder pocket
Ice axe blocking straps
compression adjustable side Textile or Belt pocket straps pole-holder aperture to elastic fabric equipment buckle inner volume side pocket holder
Front pocket opening
www.grivel.com
Buckles helmet holder
100% recycled fabric
Inner Document Hydration Load compression storage system adjustment straps pouch compartment straps
19 _
Marco Camandona in Planaval, TDG 2012 - PH: Lorenzo Belfrond
TREKKING & TRAIL RUCKSACKS GAMBA 30
CHECROUIT 38
L 38 1150g - 40,6oz
L 35 1180g - 41,6oz
eco fabric
eco fabric
eco fabric
ergonomic Butterfly
ventilated Air tech
2 lateral
2 lateral
ventilated Air tech 2 lateral
2 classic 1 frontal + 1 lateral
2 sheath system 1 frontal
1 classic 1 frontal
OUR BACK PANEL TYPES
GAMBA 30 W
_ 20
MONZINO 25 W
AIR TECH
higher chest strap above the breast area
made in italy with solar energy
shorter and slimmer shoulders above breast cm 45
WOMEN LINE
BUTTERFLY
L 30 1110g - 39,2oz
cm 48
VOLUME WEIGHT FABRIC BACK PANEL SKI HOLDER ICE AXE HOLDER POLES HOLDER
MONZINO 25
Man
Woman
shorter back shorter belt with conical trunk to fit feminine pelvis
Anna Torretta climbing, Arvier 2012 - PH: Lorenzo Belfrond
CLIMBING RUCKSACKS LYNX
VOLUME WEIGHT FABRIC BACK PANEL ICE AXE HOLDER
VOLUME WEIGHT FABRIC BACK PANEL
HAUL BAG
13 L
L 30
L 60
L 90
555g - 19,57oz
990g - 34,9oz
1990g - 70,2oz
2985g - 105,3oz
nylon ripstop
tarpaulin
tarpaulin
tarpaulin
gear carrier detachable
detachable
detachable
detachable
1
ROCKER
HAUL PACK
L 45 2130g - 75,13oz
L 25 1450g - 51,1oz
nylon + tarpaulin
nylon + tarpaulin
padded
foldable
www.grivel.com
21 _
GRIVEL INTRODUCES MAGO MAGO 12
MAGO 14
12 liters - 252g . 8,88oz - eco fabric
14 liters - 298g . 10,5oz - eco fabric
FOR CLIMBING
MAGO FREERIDE
MAGO TRAIL
A
1
16 liters - 346g . 12,2oz - eco fabric - padded back panel - Steel Blade shovel included - ski holder concealable pocket for probe
FOR SKIING
B
2
3
15 liters - 270g . 9,5oz - eco fabric - padded back panel - possibility to use it as a hip belt concealable pocket for water bottle
FOR TRAIL RUNNING
HELMETS
WEIGHT
SIZE
MADE FROM INNER LAYER
abs 385g 13,58oz
adjustable 54-62
USE
Rock Ice Alpine
polystirene foam
FRONT LAMP
INFORMATIONS
i
Designed for alpine, rock, and ice climbing. Outer shell in ABS protects against penetration, inner layer in shock absorbing polystyrene foam. One size 54/62 that can be regulated to fi t once the helmet is on. Extremely effi cient air circulation. Colours: Yellow, black, white, red. - UIAA
SALAMANDER abs
SALAMANDER SMALL
315g 11,1oz
Rock Ice Alpine
adjustable 50-58 polystirene foam
abs
SALAMANDER XL
380g 13,4oz
Rock Ice Alpine
adjustable 58-66 polystirene foam
policarbonate
AIR TECH
264g 9,4oz
Rock Ice adjustable Alpine 54-62 Competition polystirene Dry tooling
foam
policarbonate
RACE
A smaller size Salamander helmet for women, young people and children. Exactly the same as its bigger brother, same characteristics, same standard of protection, will fit 50 to 58.
238g 8,4oz
adjustable 54-62 polystirene foam www.grivel.com
Ski Touring & Ski Touring Competition
Helmet designed for expeditions to colder regions where a warm hat can be worn underneath. Also good for bigger heads. Designed for alpine, rock, and ice climbing. Outer shell in ABS protects against penetration, inner layer in shock absorbing polystyrene foam. One size (58/66) that can be regulated to fit once the helmet is on. Extremely efficient air circulation. Colour: metallic titanium. Hyper-light and hyper-ventilated. The poly-carbonate shell is co-moulded to a layer of expandable injected foam that absorbs the force of impact. aThe upper ventilation area is reinforced with metal mesh as protection against the penetration of sharp objects. Fresh air fl ows through the helmet from the ventilation aperture on the front, speeding up along the aeration channel while absorbing humidity and heat, before exiting at the back aperture: the best ventilation system ever! One size 54-62. Colour: yellow. Specific model designed to respect the needs of weight and comfort of ski tourers. Three main openings on the front part allow an easier elimination of sweat during hard climbs and a better ventilation of the whole head. Simplified and lighter regulation system. One size, adjustable. Specific for ski tourers Multi-opening aeration flow system One size fits all Colour: yellow.
23 _
ICE SCREWS
LENGTH
WEIGHT
120 mm
156g 5,5oz
160 mm
179g 3,3oz
200 mm
203g 7,1oz
HELIX SMALL
120 mm
145g 5,1oz
HELIX MEDIUM
160 mm
168g 5,9oz
HELIX LONG
200 mm
191g 6,7oz
360 SMALL 360 MID 360 LONG
PLACEABLE INVERTED FOLDABLE ANYWHERE THREAD
HYDRODINAMIC THREAD
CERTIFIED
SPEEDY • Faster as it’s ready to thread the rope. • Lighter than a traditional quickdraw. • Compact on harness • Safer as you can’t lose the ice screw
10cm 20cm 30cm
_ 24
made in italy with solar energy
SPEEDY 360
EASY RACKING SYSTEM
ACCESSORIES PAN PIPE
ESPRESSO
360
CANDELA
HELIX BLACK HOLE
GEAR SAFE
SPEEDY
www.grivel.com
25 _
CARABINERS ROTOR ALPHA K1S
BETA K1B
GAMMA K2W
PLUME K3W
PLUME K3S STRAIGHT ALPHA K1N
DELTA K5N
PLUME NUT K3N
OMEGA K6N
OMEGA K6T
G-MAILLON
OPEN
GATE CLOSE
GATE OPEN
MINOR AXIS
46
13
6 kN
-
-
99
60
18,7
27 kN
8 kN
8 kN
49 g 1,7oz
99
60
21
27 kN
8 kN
8 kN
36 g 1,2 oz
95
56,5
24
27 kN
8 kN
8 kN
28 g 0,9 oz
90
53,5
25,8
22 kN
7 kN
7 kN
33 g 1,1 oz
90
53,5
21
22 kN
7 kN
7 kN
55 g 1,9 oz
99
60
15,5
27 kN
8 kN
8 kN
65 g 2,3 oz
100
70,2
20
27 kN
8 kN
8 kN
37 g 1,3 oz
90
53,5
19
22 kN
7 kN
7 kN
78 g 2,7 oz
110
72
22
21 kN
6 kN
10 kN
84 g 2,9 oz
110
72
22
21 kN
6 kN
10 kN
76 g 2,7 oz
74
34
ø 8mm
33 kN
-
10 kN
WEIGHT
LENGTH
WIDTH
54 g 1,9 oz
115
48 g 1,6 oz
DAISY CHAIN We all love the comfort and versatility of the Daisy-chain. But in its traditional version it can lead to wrong uses and become therefore dangerous. In fact no DC on the market is guaranteed to the CE values of 22kN, like the quick draws or the carabiners.
_ 26
find the weak link
Therefore it can be the “weak ring” of the system, mainly when used in belaying. The pockets of a classical daisy chain have a very low loading strength which never exceeds the 2kN because they are designed for static load only, and consequently the only safe way to use a daisy chain as a sling is between the two end loops. The Dyne-
made in italy with solar energy
ema sling is so thin that can cut itself when in traction. Grivel has studied the problem over a long period of time, and has come up with the problem solving GDC. Today Grivel can offer a chain guaranteed to 22kN in every loop and every point! No more possibility of error, and no risk of mistake or dangerous maneuvers.
QUICKDRAWS ALPHA alpha
BETA alpha
BETA LIGHT
11, 18, 25cm . 103g . 3,6oz
11cm . 91g . 3,2oz
beta
gamma
11cm . 65g . 2,3oz
plume
gamma
11cm . 78g . 2,7oz
gamma
plume
11cm . 62g . 2,1oz
plume
plume straight
GAMMA PLUME
3F GHOST DRAWS
QUICK EASY • ergonomic grip • protect your sling • choose your own colour:
alpha
alpha
plume straight
13cm . 119g . 4,19oz
13cm . 107g . 3,77oz
13cm . 80g . 2,8oz
ALPHA beta
BETA gamma
plume
BETA LIGHT GAMMA
gamma
plume
maillon rapide www.grivel.com
13cm . 94g . 3,31oz
13cm . 78g . 2,75oz
13cm . 142g . 5oz
gamma
PLUME plume
SPORT gamma 27 _
Italy France
n arriving in Courmayeur from Chamonix the alpinist feels he’s discovered the other side of the moon. Even though the Italian and French Alps are part of the same mountain chain, the two sides appear completely different. Anyone used to the French side will find the other mysterious and unfamiliar. Initially it seems harsh and wild but on getting to know it better and adopting a cautious approach one falls under its influence and becomes totally bewitched!
G
rivel Mont-Blanc has achieved all possible certifications: from TUV GS (Sichereit Gepruft) for product quality to ISO 9001-Vision 2000 for our management system and even the ISO 14001 environmental Certification for environmental compatibility.
I
n May 2009 the company opened a new production unit in a much bigger space where it is easier to manage the different lines of production. This will help our flexibility in the face of the new demands that come in daily from around the world. This new set up means that we can widen our range of products and maintain our avant-garde position in the marketplace.
T
he new location has allowed us to change to solar energy making our production cleaner and more eco-friendly. Since 2010 all the energy needs are produced by our photovoltaic panels.
PRINT: Tipografia Marcoz - Morgex
T
oday 180 years later, Grivel, still basically one large family, continues in its balancing act between tradition and progress, between forging and aerospace technology, between intuition and R&D.
Printed on eco-friendly paper Fedrigoni symbol freelife
T
his is the home of Grivel. Created in 1818, by a family of blacksmiths with Walser origins, Grivel was a modest family affair that started to transform their production of agricultural tools to satisfy the rather peculiar demands of a new breed of wealthy tourists who, for unfathomable reasons, wanted to climb the mountains!
Società
Guide Alpine Courmayeur
1850
WE ARE HERE
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11013 Courmayeur (Aosta) phone: +39 0165 84 37 14 . Loc. Champagne, 19 - 11020 Verrayes - Aosta phone: +39 0166 54 62 87 . 264 Avenue Ravanel Le Rouge - 74400 Chamonix phone: +33 450530 743 . Partita I.V.A. IT 00139110076
fax: +39 0165 84 48 00 fax: +39 0166 54 66 85 fax: +33 450532751
GRIVEL’S CREATIVE TEAM: Betta Gobbi, Lorenzo Belfrond, Manuel Milliery, Filippo M. Gerundini Gherardi
Climbing ice, snow or rock can result in severe injury or death. Whoever uses GRIVEL products must be technically competent and possess appropriate precautionary know-how. Each climber must personally assume responsibility for risks resulting from improper use of GRIVEL products. The materials do not last forever. They will deteriorate with use and abuse. Check your tools before every use. Do not hesitate to replace worn or broken equipment.
WARNING COVER: Giulia Monego climbs out of a crevasse in Chamonix’s Mer de Glace. PH Alexandre Buisse BACK COVER: Günther Göberl
GRIVEL srl
O