summer 2012
what’s on in the Grivel World
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THE 9 MOST INFLUENTIAL GEAR OF ALL TIME TH
source: www.outsideonline.com/outdoor-gear/climbing-gear/The-Most-Influential-Gear-of-All-Time-Grivel-10-Point-Crampon.html
grivel.com
• This simple and effective idea combines an efficient rucksacks with a useful haul bag. • Made in heavy duty tarpaulin and strong tough Cordura nylon. • Waistband and shoulder straps are easily foldable for lift up.
climbing
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PHOTO: Marco Spataro
A COMMON SOUL SINCE 1818 GRIVEL’S SOLAR ENERGY VERTICALMENTE DEMODÉ GRIVEL&UIAA WORLD WIDE
grivel.com
PHOTO: Lorenzo Belfrond
A common soul TWO OF THE MOST ANCIENT ALPINE COMPANIES
IN THE WORLD SIGNED A PARTNERSHIP On arriving in Courmayeur from Chamonix the alpinist feels he’s discovered the other side of the moon. Even though the Italian and French Alps are part of the same mountain chain, the two sides appear completely different. Anyone used to the French side will find the other mysterious and unfamiliar. Initially it seems harsh and wild but on getting to know it better and adopting a cautious approach one falls under its influence and becomes totally bewitched! This is the home of Grivel. Created in 1818, by a family of blacksmiths with Walser origins, Grivel was a modest family affair that started to transform their production of agricultural tools to satisfy the rather peculiar demands
of a new breed of wealthy tourists who, for unfathomable reasons, wanted to climb the mountains! Today 180 years later, Grivel, still basically one large family, continues in its balancing act between tradition and progress, between forging and aerospace technology, between intuition and R&D. The 2nd of December 2011 at the Guide Society HQ’s, an official document was signed. An immense satisfaction emerged from the Ceo of Grivel, Gioachino Gobbi: “ It could have gone in no other way, we are both in Courma-
Società
Guide Alpine Courmayeur
1850 yeur, we both have a lot to do with Alpinism and we love the Mont Blanc and we are active part of it. Now it’s up to us, together, to write a brand new chapter” The President of the Guides Arrigo Gallizio adds “ It’s a great personal pleasure to
have reached this partnership, and our guides along with the Grivel equipment will surely bring with great honor the flag of Mont Blanc and of Valle d’Aosta around the mountains of the world!
www.guidecourmayeur.com
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grivel.com
TRADITIONALLY INNOVATIVE
Since 1818
Thomas Bubendorfer PHOTO: Guenter Goeberl
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9TH MOST INFLUENTIAL GEAR OF ALL TIME: GRIVEL 10-POINT CRAMPON Hunters and soldiers have used rudimentary crampons since the Roman Empire. But it was English engineer and mountaineer Oscar Eckenstein that made them what they are today. Starting in 1908 Eckstein published articles in Ostereich Alpenzeitung—the Austrian Alpine Journal—detailing the results of his research on the manufacture of crampons, their systematic use, and the incredible feats they could perform. He brought his plans for the first 10-point crampons to Henry Grivel, a blacksmith whose family had been producing equipment for alpinists since 1818. They gained a huge following. By June 1912 a competition for “cramponneurs” was organized on the Brenva glacier with Eckenstein judging. Grivel couldn’t patent the new designs because mice had eaten the original drawings, but the family company, Grivel, continued to improve upon the design. In 1932 Henry’s son, Laurent, added dual front points to the crampon, which has become standard for vertical ice climbing as well as mountaineering.
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grivel.com www.wallpaper.com
*DESIGNINTERIORSFASHIONARTLIFESTYLE
WE MANUFACTURE IN ITALY WITH SOLAR ENERGY Grivel’s passion for nature, that since 1818 is translated in the production of high quality products for those who choose the mountain, meets solar energy production, creating this an industry of excellence that truly thinks about the future. 7000 m2 of solar panels, cover the roof of the factory adding to an area equivalent to a football pitch, produce 516kWp : every year we avoid the production of 1.173 barrels of Oil in a process that safeguards the very same territory that we encourage to discover through the use of our products.
GRIVEL
manufactures in Italy with solar energy
Manolo VERTICALMENTE DEMODÉ Verticalmente Démodé by Davide Carrari with Maurizio Manolo Zanolla produced by L’Eubage Srl (Aosta), soundtrack & sound design by Enrico Montrosset has won the following prizes:
PRIZE CLUB ALPINO ITALIANO, GENZIANA D’ORO BEST ALPINISM OR MOUNTAIN CATEGORY
Although the very high standards and quality of the movies in this category, the Jury had no doubts, awarding the Genziana d’Oro in the alpinism category to a movie that incarnates the pure essence of free climbing. This movie demonstrates that climbing is not just a sport but also a creative form of art. Manolo constantly pushes himself beyond his limits in a masterpiece strongly bonded to the Dolomiti.
represented here by the Baule cliff and a man, Maurizio “Manolo” Zanolla, whom with his magic hands and penetrating eyes challenges a pitch that in all the past years he thought to be unchallengeable. Characteristic that makes it uncommon and vertically Demodè : it’s a “Plaque” route, quite the opposite to today’s negative climbing fashion. Up to the very beginning of the movie Manolo’s hands are the star of the show and are the
PRIZE “CITY OF IMOLA” This
short but intense short feature takes a great merit for the story telling, without any of a great tale, which has 2 main characters : the mountain,
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www.verticalmentedemode.com we manufactures in italy with solar energy
most substantial part of the show. Manolo in the last part of the movie tells us that, to make such project possible, a person must be conscious of the difficulty and needs to be ready to go beyond the limit...
PRIZE “MARIO BELLO” In this
feature film we have an extraordinary and emerging Maurizio”Manolo”Zanolla, an alpinist of rare talent and coherence with his philosophy in life. The black&white pho-
tography works very well in underlining a man’s progression in such extreme difficulties, accompanying Manolo throughout his own observations and afterthoughts right up to the triumphant conclusion with a great victory on the peak of that mountain yet small and “demodè” but infinitely packed with emotions and values. Translating in a great act of love for alpinism itself.
MAGO
the bag to climb with
PHOTO: Lorenzo Belfrond
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Master Alloy we manufactures in italy with solar energy
UIAA: International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation. His mission is to promote the growth and protection of mountaineering and climbing worldwide, advance safe and ethical mountain practices.
www.theuiaa.org
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A STRONG PARTNERSHIP Grivel, one of the world’s leading mountaineering equipment manufacturers, has become one of the sponsors of the UIAA (International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation). “Grivel and UIAA have the same environmental and ethical goals,” said Grivel’s owner Gioachino Gobbi about the sponsorship deal that was signed in March. “This is why Grivel made the decision to become partner of the worldwide UIAA program.” “We want to maintain our traditions, keeping in
touch with our mountains and the men who challenge them,” said Gobbi. Grivel is one of the oldest companies in the world to produce mountaineering equipment and was established in 1818 in Courmayeur at the foot of Mont Blanc, the highest mountain in the Alps. Athletes sponsored by Grivel include Angelika Rainer (Italy) and Maxim Tomilov (Russia), both overall champions in the Men and Women’s Lead discipline during the 2012 UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup tour. Grivel’s commitment to
environmental sustainability includes minimizing waste, choosing environmentally friendly technologies to manufacture its products and taking into account the life cycle of a product including recycling. Two years ago the company moved into a bigger facility that produces all it’s energy needs through solar energy. The UIAA was founded in 1932 and has 80 member associations in 50 countries representing about 1.3 million people. The organization’s mission is to promote the
growth and protection of mountaineering and climbing worldwide, advance safe and ethical mountain practices and promote responsible access, culture and environmental protection. The UIAA operates through the work of its commissions, which make recommendations, set policy and advocate on behalf of the mountaineering community. The UIAA is also recognized by the International Olympic Committee for mountaineering and natural surface climbing.
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Ranking women lead
Ranking men lead
1. Rainer Angelika 2. Tolokonina Maria 3. Gallyamova Anna 4. Hrozova Lucie 5. Shin Woon Seon
1. Tomilov Maxim 2. Tomilov Alexey 3. Park Heeyong 4. Sypavin Valentyn 5. Lyulyukin Ivan grivel.com
World wide EQUIPPING CHINA’S ASCENT A team of Alpinists chosen by the Chinese Government, trained by Thomas Bubendorfer and equipped by Grivel are to be the first “official” chinese Alpinists. For the first time the Government decides to officially invest in mountain Sport and begin a program that will give, young Chinese and young Tibetans,
a chance to become mountain guides. Two members have already been part of an expedition that in 2008 brought the Olimpic torch to the Everest, already back then they were equipped with Grivel equipment. Thomas Bubendorfer, one of the world’s best solo climbers. An Alpinist that made the ex-
treme his personal challenge. At the age of 21 he already completed 30 solos. Beginning with the Eiger in just 4h and 50 minutes and the North Face of the Matterhorn in 3h50.. It is fully endorsed by the China Mountain Association (CMA), the official authority of the People’s Republic of China mountaineers. It
is also backed by the embassies of Germany and Austria. Between Grivel and him there is a long running collaboration since many years, and he puts us as the leader in reliability of products for mountaineering.
2011. In Co-Op Lanxess, the German chemical Giant, six young and strong Chinese climbers were selected, they then spent 2 weeks in Austria to train for Ice Climbing. The youngsters arrived along a Government spokesman, a journalist and a filmer from
the Chinese Television. In autumn the team met up again in Tibet to learn and refine climbing techniques for altitude mountaineering. They achieved 2 routes, one to 6160mt and the other 6228mt, both very hard.
2012. The team led by Bubendorfer, along with government members and selected media partners has come to Mont Blanc to try out some very difficult ascent routes. Here the team has been a guest of the Regional regency of Valle d’Aosta, that said” It is very proud of hosting the training of a group that has a great potential and a good opportunity of a prolonged co-operation between the two
Countries. It is very important that the young Chinese Alpinists, along with the rest of the world, get to know the Italian side of Mont Blanc, not just the French side that is already common knowledge. Straight after this training session the team will try a 7500mt virgin peak in Tibet. In fall 2012 there will be conferences all over the east China, Korea, Japan and Singapore.
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we manufactures in italy with solar energy
PHOTO: Guenter Goeberl
3F GRIVEL’S CREATIVE TEAM: Betta Gobbi, Lorenzo Belfrond, Manuel Milliery, Filippo M. Gerundini Gherardi
PRINT: Tipografia Marcoz - Morgex
only copertina 4° GHOST 76 g
Printed on eco-friendly paper Fedrigoni symbol freelife
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