Groove Korea 2015 April by Groove Korea

Editorial

April 2015

A bittersweet time

t’s spring, and Groove is setting out on a new path. This month’s issue emphasizes fun, food, entertainment, and taking time to appreciate nature. There have been drastic changes to our editorial team, including the addition of well-known food blogger and author Joe McPherson. Under our new sports editor, Liam Ring, we’re substantially expanding our sports coverage. And we’re looking forward to Children’s Day and Buddha’s Birthday — to festivals, cherry blossoms, family outings and fun activities. But it’s a bittersweet time as we approach the anniversary of the Sewol ferry tragedy. It is heartbreaking that so many of the victims were high school students on a class trip. Even more heartbreaking is the knowledge that many of them died waiting patiently for help, trusting the adults in charge to rescue them. Our thoughts are with the bereaved families on this sad anniversary. May they find the answers they are seeking, and the strength to carry on their struggle and honor their children’s memories. This month we’re also taking on another serious subject. As part of a two-part series, we look into the lives of North

O n t h e C O V E R

April 2015

Cover photo by Dylan Goldby Cover design by Seong-eun Park This month’s Food and Drink section celebrates spring fever and Seoul’s bold new flavors

Korean refugees and the challenges they face adapting to their new life in the South. Insight editor Anita McKay sat down with a married couple who escaped from the North almost five years ago. We get a brief glimpse of the life that the couple left behind and a poignant sense of their attempts to integrate into South Korean society — a society that is foreign to them, and sometimes unwelcoming. But many questions remain. The subjects of this article were not political prisoners. They weren’t poor and starving. They were middle-class people — the husband was a successful businessman — and they describe their lives in North Korea as “ordinary” for the most part. Yet they risked their lives to escape, and they cherish their newfound freedom. The United Nations has documented grave human rights violations in North Korea. They include, among others, “torture and inhuman treatment,” “arbitrary arrest and detention,” and “violations of the right to life.” It may strike some readers as bizarre that defectors could express ambivalence about leaving — but reality does not always conform to our preconceptions.

ISSUE

102

APRIL 2015

What ’ s in thi s iss ue

WELCOME

COMMUNIT Y

06 EDITORIAL: A BITTERSWEET TIME

22 REMEMBERING LIVES LOST

Remembering a tragic anniversary

ON THE COVER This month’s Food and Drink section celebrates spring fever and Seoul’s bold new flavors

16 KEY PEOPLE

Meet Groove’s new editorial team and a few of our talented contributors

18 WHAT’S ON

www.groovekorea.com April 2015

Festivals, concerts, happy hours, networking and events for every day of the month

20 THE NEWS

A British expat artist pays tribute to the promising young lives lost in the Sewol ferry disaster on April 16, 2014.

24 CHILDREN’S DAY (INTER)ACTIVITY Activities for the whole family

25 THE BRIEF BEAUTY OF THE BLOSSOMS Korea’s cherry blossoms remind us of the impermanence of life.

26 THE CHERRY CHEST

Where to enjoy Korea’s beautiful spring blossoms

Korea’s Supreme Court overturns the nation’s LIFE’S JUST BOURIE adultery law; the Bar Association disallows a An interview with fashion designer former Supreme Court justice from practicing Jo Eun Hye as an attorney; a KAL flight attendant sues the airline as well as Cho Hyun-ah; a tent fire kills five and injures two.

30 SEOUL GLOBAL CULTURAL

CENTER Expats and visitors can experience Korean traditional “hanbok” (clothing), maskmaking, “samullori” (dance genre), and many more activities.

32 SALSA THAT ISN’T JUST

GOCHUJANG Koreans and expats share their passion for Latin dancing.

INSIGHT

34 DEFECTING FROM NORTH

KOREA’S MIDDLE CLASS Kim Young-ok and Kim Chul-soo weren’t political prisoners. They weren’t poor and starving. They were middle-class people, and Chul-soo was a successful businessman. Their lives in North Korea were “ordinary” for the most part, yet they risked everything to escape a dictatorship.

ISSUE

What ’ s in thi s iss ue

102

APRIL 2015

TRAVEL

54 NO EASY RIDE

The author explored Vietnam’s central highlands on the back of a motorcycle; one of her guides was a survivor of the country’s postwar ‘re-education’ camps. A thoughtful reflection on privilege and the lasting impact of war and political repression.

FOOD AND DRINK

ENTERTAINMENT

38 RESTAURANT COPYING

44 60 BERLIN’S PUNK DIVA DEBUTS IN SEOUL SURVIVING AND THRIVING

‘BENCHMARKING’ Is imitation really the sincerest form of flattery? When does it cross a line and become theft?

40 RESTAURANT REVIEWS

Mary Ocher is eccentric, confrontational, and rejects the conventions of pop music. She’s also coming to Seoul on April 18.

46 PAUL MCCARTNEY

The legendary ex-Beatle comes to Seoul on May 2. Brera (Italian), Belgrade (Baltic), Little Baja (Mexican), Doramu (Korean and international), American Smell (U.S. cuisine, as the name suggests), L’Espoir du Hibou, Hot Dog on a Stick, Mingles, OK Burger THE SCRIPT The Dublin music trio will play in Seoul on April 15.

42 RECIPES

Fuglies (ugly burgers), Strawberry Fields Forever (spring cocktail)

43 TIPS, TRENDS, AND

OTHER STRANGE NEWS Candied ‘beondegi’ (silkworm larvae)?

48 FEROCITY AND FRAGILITY FROM 9 TO 5 During this spring season, the Seoul Players will examine gender and power.

51 BEYOND THE BLURB

Exhibitions at Seoul’s Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art

10 www.groovekorea.com April 2015

52 THE BIG SCREEN

SPORTS

Expat rugby in Korea

62 GUNNING FOR GLORY

Arsenal fans will hold a charity marathon on April 11. Proceeds will support mentorship programs for young people.

63 IRONMAN TRIATHLETE

When Jesse bought a new bike three years ago, he didn’t know it would change his life.

64 SEOUL BASEBALL LEAGUE Expats play baseball

64 A NEW ERA FOR SEOUL FOOTBALL

Who are the change agents within FC Seoul?

65 SOUL OF SEOUL

What does the future hold for FC Seoul?

Box-office film reviews: ‘Furious 7’ and ‘A Most Violent Year’

53 THE SMALL SCREEN

DVD reviews: ‘2009: Lost Memories’ and ‘AM 11:00’

GROOVE LISTINGS

68 MAPS

KOREA 5th floor, Shinwoo Bldg. 5-7 Yongsan 3-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul, Korea.

Contact info (010) 5348-0212 / (02) 6925-5057 Advertising ads@groovekorea.com General inquiries info@groovekorea.com E D IT O RI A L

Community naheen madarbakus naheen@groovekorea.com Insight anita mckay anita@groovekorea.com FOOD & DRINK joe mcpherson food@groovekorea.com ENTERTAINMENT stewart mcfeat stewart@groovekorea.com TRAVEL eileen cahill eileen@groovekorea.com SPORTS liam ring liam@groovekorea.com A RT & D ESI G N

ART DIRECTOR seong-eun park sam@groovekorea.com PHOTO DIRECTOR dylan goldby photo@groovekorea.com WRITERS & C O NTRIBUT O RS

hallie bradley, simon slater, sam mardini, steve price, bourie, andy hume, tom birner, robbie nguyen, sue ahn, caroline mahon, christine pickering M A R K ETIN G & A D MINISTR A TI O N

CFO steve seung-jin lee MARKETING DIRECTOR peter chong ACCOUNTING yi-seul oh WEB & M O BI L E

himes design www.himesdesign.com finch professtional services www.finchproservices.com P UB L ISHER

sean choi sean@groovekorea.com Special thanks to Ms. Sophie Yang at Seoul Cultural Global Center

To contribute to Groove Korea, email submissions@groovekorea.com or the appropriate editor. To write a letter to the editor, email editor@groovekorea.com. To have Groove Korea delivered to your home or business, email subscribe@groovekorea.com. To promote your event, email events@groovekorea.com. To advertise, email ads@groovekorea.com. The articles are the sole property of GROOVE MEDIA CO. Ltd. No reproduction is permitted without the express written consent of GROOVE MEDIA CO. Ltd. The opinions expressed in the magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher.

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Stewart McFeat Stewart McFeat is from Glasgow, Scotland and has a background in radical European philosophy. He see-saws between the oddball and evenball parts of the culture industry. In the term “artsy-fartsy” he considers himself to be the letter “f.”

Naheen Madarbakus-Ring

Dylan Goldby Dylan is a full time photographer based in Seoul, and runs photography workshops both locally and internationally. He has a passion for travel and documenting the disappearing world. When he’s not photographing a family or story, you’ll more than likely find him having dinner at a market stall or watching the sun go down. Dylan is Groove Korea’s photo editor.

Joe McPherson Joe founded ZenKimchi, one of Korea’s first food blogs, in 2004. He recently published the best-selling Seoul Restaurant Expat Guide, which has over 400 restaurants inside and is available on Amazon. He also runs KoreaFoodTours.com, which includes the popular Dark Side of Seoul Tour, Korea’s only ghost tour. Joe is Groove Korea’s food & drink editor.

14 www.groovekorea.com April 2015

Christine Pickering Christine is a freelance writer and photographer based in her native Toronto. For the last four years, she taught English in Seoul, explored the nooks and crannies of Southeast Asia, and worked for various human rights organizations. She is now a graduate student in international development.

Naheen has divided the last 12 years between Japan, Korea and the United Kingdom and traveled to about 30 countries in between. When not on a beach, she enjoys discovering new restaurants around the city, walks by the stream or catching up on Gordon Ramsay cookery shows. Naheen is Groove Korea’s community editor.

Eileen Cahill Eileen is a longtime animal advocate who lives in Seoul with three cats named Phoenix, Gemma and Jellybean and a tiny elderly dog named Bangsiri. She has more than 10 years’ experience in writing and editing and is also the author of two blogs, purpleplushrunaway.com and beautifultinyprincess.com. Eileen is Groove Korea’s travel editor.

Liam Ring Liam has spent much of the last 12 years living in Japan and Korea, where he has divided his time between watching domestic and late-night EPL action most weekends. An avid Arsenal fan, he also enjoys the odd beverage, a quality meal and spending time reading Haruki Murakami. Liam is Groove Korea’s sports editor.

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Line Bundang

Galleria intersection

Apgujeong Rodeo Stn. EXIT 4

Cannon

Dr.Kim’s Skin Laser & Esthetic Clinic (은피부과)

Bluemoon jazz

Adidas SC Bank

Hak-dong intersection

SUN

MON

TUE

WED

Apr

W hat’ s O N

THU

The 53rd Jinhae Gunhangje

@ Changwon city. The Korea’s largest cherry blossom festival. April 1 – 10.

2015 Seoul Motor Show @ KINTEX

The Story of Bohemian Glass / Special exhibition

@ National Museum of Korea. Until April 26. An exhibition of exquisite Bohemian glass works, along with an introduction to Czech history and culture

8 2015 Gyeongju cherry blossom festival @ Gyeong ju, April 5 - 13

15 The SCRIPT live in Seoul @ Olympic Park

Illusion and Fantasy,

a thematic exhibition which exemplifies the diversity of contemporary art @ MMCA Seoul

16 www.groovekorea.com April 2015

Hanjin Shipping The Box Project 2014: Leandro Erlich @ National

Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art, Seoul (MMCA Seoul)

Great Korean Beer Festival with C-Festival @ COEX. Enjoy

100+ kinds of craft beer! Runs through May 3

G a m es i n A P RIL KBO League game schedule

(schedules for Jamsil, Mokdong and Sajik only) FRI

S AT

Lotte vs. LG (Jamsil)

A PRI L

Samsung vs. LG (Jamsil) SK vs. Nexen (Mokdong) Doosan vs. Lotte (Sajik)

A PRI L

7-9

Musical CATS original casts @ Sejong Grand Theater until May 10.

1-2 3-5

Noel Gallagher’s High Flying Birds live in Seoul @ Sheraton Grande Walkerhill

A PRI L

Kt vs. SK (Mokdong)

Nexen vs. Doosan (Jamsil)

Doosan vs. LG (Jamsil)

kt vs. Nexen (Mokdong) Hanwha vs. Lotte (Sajik)

KIA vs. LG (Jamsil)

NC vs. Lotte (Sajik)

A PRI L

10-12 A PRI L

14-16 A PRI L

17-19 2015 Yeouido Spring Flower Festival @ Yeouido, until April 15

Pinnacle TheHustler Sweatin’ MV Release Party @ Club Lucidream in Itaewon

Lotte vs. Doosan (Jamsil)

A PRI L

21-23

Hanwha vs. LG (Jamsil)

Doosan vs. Nexen (Mokdong)

KIA vs. Doosan (Jamsil)

Samsung vs. Lotte (Sajik)

kt vs. Doosan (Jamsil)

Lotte vs. Nexen (Mokdong)

A PRI L

24-26 Craft Beer and Camping Festival

Pinnacle TheHustler MC set at Club NB in Hongdae

@ Gapyeong, Gyeonggi-do / April 17-18 / 1st craft beer festival with live bands and DJs / Craftworks, Magpie, 7 Bräu, Ka-Brew, The Table, Galmegi, Maloney’s, Pogona, and many more will be on-hand at the event.

A PRI L

28-30

K League schedule K League Challenge

(schedules for Jamsil, Suwon, Ansan, Anyang, Goyang and Bucheon games only) APRI L

K League Classic

(schedules for Seoul, Suwon and Jeonju stadiums games only) APRI L

Seoul E-Land vs. Daegu FC (Jamsil)

FC Anyang vs. Goyang Hi FC (Anyang)

Hongdae LIVE CLUB day!

Suwon Bluewings FC vs. Busan IPark FC (Suwon)

APRI L

Suwon FC vs. Ansan Police FC (Suwon)

Jeonbuk FC vs. FC Pohang Steelers (Jeonju) APRI L

Bucheon FC vs. Chung ju Hummel FC (Bucheon)

Ansan Police FC vs. Seoul E-Land (Ansan Wa)

APRI L

For suggestions or comments, email events@groovekorea.com

Goyang Hi FC vs. Daegu FC (Goyang)

APRI L

Seoul E-Land vs. Bucheon FC (Jamsil)

APRI L

Suwon FC vs. Sang ju Sangmu FC (Suwon) FC Anyang vs. Kyeongnam FC (Anyang)

FC Seoul vs. Daejeon Citizen FC (Seoul)

APRI L

Bucheon FC vs. Sang ju Sangmu FC (Bucheon)

*All the events published in this calendar are subject to unforeseen changes by the promoters. Groove Korea does not take responsibility for any misunderstandings or third-party damage.

FC Seoul vs. Jeju United FC (Seoul)

Suwon Bluewings FC vs. FC Seoul (Suwon) Jeonbuk FC vs. Jeju United FC (Jeonju)

APRI L

Suwon Bluewings FC vs. Daejeon Citizen FC (Suwon)

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All stories are culled with consent from Korea JoongAng Daily’s website and edited by Groove Korea for length and clarity. The opinions expressed here do not necessarily represent those of Groove Korea. — Ed.

In association with April 2015 / www.koreajoongangdaily.com

Korean adultery decriminalized after 62 years

18 www.groovekorea.com April 2015

he Constitutional Court on February 26 struck down the long-standing adultery law that made Korea one of a very few non-Muslim countries that punish cheating husbands and wives with prison terms, reflecting changes in a culture that now stresses the importance of individuals’ rights over the state’s intervention in the name of common good. In a landmark seven-to-two decision, the court declared Article 241 of the criminal code, which was written in 1953, unconstitutional because it infringes upon people’s privacy rights and sexual freedom. Immediately after the ruling was announced, the anti-extramarital affair law lost any legal validity, freeing around 600 people being prosecuted for adultery. Under the 62-year-old law, a married husband or wife caught cheating faced up to two years in prison. A third person involved in an affair was also subject to legal punishment even if they were not married. In a joint statement of opinion, five justices said that because of changes in public attitudes about the state policing marriages, there was a mismatch between the law and a legal respect for individual rights. The five judges also said that the controversial law had strayed from its original intention of acting as a deterrent against extramarital affairs and was now misused by estranged spouses in divorce trials as a way of winning more assets in a settlement. “While it is now perceived that the law fails to achieve a public objective of protecting the integrity of marriage, it encroaches too much upon individuals’ basic rights of self-determination for sexual conduct, thus losing the right

support the anti-cheating law. The two judges said that because of its detrimental effect on families and the social order, an extramarital affair should not be viewed as a self-determination right for sexual conduct. With the law repealed, law enforcement officials will not be mobilized to collect evidence of marital infidelity, such as filming sexual contact between two parties. Such evidence was usually used to win greater divorce settlements. This was the fifth time in 25 years that a petition to abolish the controversial law was brought before the Constitutional Court. All four previous rulings maintained the law, saying the social order had to be maintained, a reflection of conservative Korean culture. But in a 2008 ruling on a motion put forward by actress Ok So-ri, who was indicted for adultery, five of nine judges supported the law’s abolishment, which was the first time that a majority called it unconstitutional. But six out of nine votes - or two-thirds - would have been needed to strike the law down, and Ok received an eight-month suspended on terms without taking into account different sentence as a result. With the court’s ruling Thursday, 2,973 men levels of infidelity. Two judges opposed repealing the law, say- and women convicted of adultery since the ing its eradication will lead to a downgrade in 2008 ruling, which was delivered on Oct. 30 ethics surrounding sex and cause more sexual that year, can appeal to overturn their convictions and claim compensation, including for misconduct. “Adultery is not only a personal or ethical mat- legal fees and any period of time they spent beter but is an issue that undermines the social hind bars. Only those who have been indicted order and violates the rights of others,” stated or convicted since the ruling seven years ago Justices Ahn Chang-ho and Lee Jung-mi, who are eligible for re-trials and compensation. As Korea moved to null the controversial was the only female judge on the nine-panel bench. To back up their position, the two cit- law, Taiwan and the Philippines are part of the ed a public poll of 2,000 adults conducted last handful non-Muslim countries that still have year that showed 60.4 percent of respondents anti-adultery laws on their books. legal balance,” ruled the five justices. They also cited a growing legal trend internationally that adultery is an outdated crime in an era of respect for individual choice and privacy. In his decision, Judge Kim Yi-su ruled that the adultery law was unconstitutional because it also penalizes unmarried people for having an affair with married people even though they were not bound by the code of conduct mandated by marriage. Judge Kang Il-won stated that even though he saw a social need to have such a law against extramarital affairs, it still conflicts with constitutional values because it subjects cheating husbands and wives to pris-

Keimyung University Dongsan Medical Center

계명대학교 동산의료원

116 years of history The first hospital in Daegu Established in 1899 by an American medical missionary Practicing domestic and international medical volunteer activities for over a Century. ● Leading hospital in attraction of international patients Best Institute Award for attracting International Patients from the Korean Ministry of Health and Welfare in 2010 ● Leading Medical Center in daegu medical tourism ● Specialized Medical Centers : Cardiovascular Center, Cerebrovascular Center, Cancer Center, Digestive System Center, Sleep Center, Obesity and metabolic Surgery Center.

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Nati onal Ne ws

In association with

Bar association rejects former justice’s plans

he Korean Bar Association has rejected a former Supreme Court justice’s announcement that he will begin practicing law as an attorney, part of its campaign to root out the long-held tradition of providing special treatment to former judges and prosecutors post-retirement. “In order to break down old customs and win public trust in the legal community, we inevitably turned down Cha Han-sung’s disclosure that he will practice law as an attorney,” the association said Monday. Cha served as a Supreme Court justice from 2008 to 2014, and worked as a judge since 1975, when he passed the bar exam. He completed his attorney registration in February, after which he was hired to serve at a nonprofit foundation operated by Bae, Kim & Lee LLC, one of the country’s largest law firms. In March, Cha submitted paperwork to the Korean Bar Association to formally announce that he would work as a practicing attorney. Afterward, the association recommended he reconsider his decision, citing its campaign to quell practices in Korea’s legal system whereby retired judges and prosecutors receive special

20 www.groovekorea.com April 2015

favor from former colleagues who are still serv- collect written pledges from all Supreme Court justice candidates that they not work as pracing. Providing honorable treatment to retired col- ticing attorneys after leaving the bench,” it said. It added that it will also open up a tip center leagues has long been seen as an evil in the to collect information about special treatment country’s judicial system. “A retired Supreme Court justice should serve afforded to former judges and prosecutors. The center as well as the association’s camthe people and devote himself to society rather than strive for personal gain by practicing law paign to eradicate special treatment are both the results of pledges made by Ha Chang-woo, as an attorney,” the association stated. “Lawyers who served on the Supreme Court’s the newly elected chairman of the Korean Bar bench have often embarrassed themselves by Association. Ha, who served as chairman of the Seoul monopolizing appeals to the Supreme Court in return for high retainer fees, or practically rent- Bar Association from 2007 to 2009, promised to end corrupt practices in the legal commuing out titles to their juniors.” While Cha has maintained that he will only nity during his campaign to become the head work as an attorney for the nonprofit group, of the association, which represents more than and not for personal gain, the bar has insisted 15,500 lawyers. He was elected to the post in February this that he relent on his plan, though it has no legal year. grounds to regulate his actions. However, some in the legal community still Current law governing lawyers allows the bar association to reject an attorney’s registration, expressed concern over the association’s move. “The National Assembly could create a law but there is no clause that enables it to reject an announcement by a registered attorney to start to regulate former judges practicing law after their retirement,” an incumbent judge said, “but his own practice. After turning down his paperwork, the asso- when a lawyers’ lobbying group starts regulating that practice, it will eventually have an inciation said it would take stronger action. “We will ask the National Assembly speaker to fluence on those judges.”

Five dead, two injured in tent fire

ive people were killed and two were injured in a fire that broke out at a campsite in Incheon on March 22, raising questions about the country’s safety infrastructure as authorities suspect that faulty electrical equipment was the chief cause of the blaze. Police officers investigating the incident said that the blaze affected one cone-shaped tent, about 16 square meters (172 square feet), at around 2:07 a.m. All five people inside were found dead when fire fighters arrived at the scene at 2:23 a.m. There were four other tents and three guesthouses at the same campground. Among the deceased was a 37-year-old man surnamed Lee and his two sons, ages 6 and 11. A 36-year-old man, only identified by his last name Cheon, and his 7-year-old son also died. Cheon and Lee were said to be close friends who took their two families on a camping trip.

The two injured were another of Lee’s sons, 8, and a 43-year-old man surnamed Park. The two were transported to a nearby hospital and are being treated for second-degree burns. Their injuries are not life-threatening, police said.

Park told officers that he was awakened by a raucous cry in the middle of the night and came to notice a large fire in the tent right next to his. The 8-year-old was standing near the entrance to the tepee-shaped tent and wailing when Park carried him out.

A college student who was near the burning tent was the first to call the fire department at around 2:13 a.m., roughly five minutes after the fire started. The first fire truck arrived 10 minutes later when the fire was still burning but the tent had collapsed. With the precise cause of the incident still unclear, officers from Incheon Ganghwa Police Precinct are examining CCTV footage from the scene, and have requested assistance from forensics officers for a deeper analysis. An electric panel used for heating is suspected to be the cause. A police officer who asked not to be named said the security coverage showed a flash inside the tent at 2:07 a.m. and that it flared up in just five minutes. Another fire fighter who also asked for anonymity said the material the tent was made of is highly flammable and that people staying at the campsite had told them that all five fire extinguishers stationed nearby did not work.

KAL flight attendant’s suit

targets airline, Cho

flight attendant who was harassed by a former Korean Air Lines vice president in what became known as the nut rage case filed a civil lawsuit against the airline and the executive. Kim Do-hee, the flight attendant, is seeking compensation through a trial in New York after she was verbally and physically attacked by Cho Hyun-ah, according to a statement on March 11 by two American law firms, the Weinstein Law Firm and Kobre & Kim. Cho, a vice president overseeing cabin service at the time of the Dec. 5 incident, was enraged that Kim served her macada-

mia nuts in a bag, not on a dish. After a heated confrontation with crew in the first class cabin, Cho ordered head flight attendant Park Chang-jin off the plane, forcing it to return to a gate at John F. Kennedy International Airport. It is the first civil lawsuit connected with the nut rage case, which infuriated South Koreans and hogged global headlines. Last month a Korean court sentenced Cho, 40, to one year in prison for violating aviation security laws, using violence against a flight attendant and other charges. The summons filed March 9 with the Supreme Court of the State of New York County of Queens said Cho screamed obscenities at Kim and hit and threatened

her. She was also pressured to lie to government investigators to cover up the incident, the summons said. Kim is seeking compensatory damages and punitive damages in an amount to be determined at the trial. Kim was unable to resolve the dispute privately, and both Korean Air and Cho did not engage in “any substantive” settlement discussions with Kim’s lawyers, the statement said. Cho will be held responsible for the damage that she has caused to Kim’s career, reputation, and emotional well-being, it said. Korean Air Lines did not respond to a request for comment.

Nati onal Ne ws

In association with

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

C OMMUNI TY

After death, a tiger’s skin remains;

a man leaves only his name

The Sewol Disaster: One Year On

am proud to be showing my fifth solo exhibition entitled “After death, a tiger’s skin remains; a man leaves only his name” which will be held at Gallery I in Insadong from 8th – 21st April 2015. This exhibition takes place over the oneyear anniversary period of the fatal Sewol accident. It investigates the media’s rendering of the incident through symbolic depictions of key characters’ roles that were reported on, as the timeline of events unraveled. The works pay tribute to the rise of heroes, who were hailed and honored for the parts they played in the story, juxtaposed against those the media malevolently portrayed and held responsible.

Expat artist Martyn Thompson shares his view on the ferry disaster that rocked the nation

22 www.groovekorea.com April 2015

The circumstances surrounding the disaster combined with a shocking death toll make it one of the worst maritime accidents of present day, and that alone struck something inside me. My wonderful wife and son form the motive as to why the Sewol accident prompted me to make this body of work: only three years prior, I had been on the same ship with my wife, for a cycling holiday around

Story and photos by Martyn Thompson

Jeju. It could have been us. The number of students killed in the accident left so many parents childless. In a morbid way of looking at things: we too could have been one of those parents. Combine these feelings with the fact that domestic authorities often overlook safety parameters, and perhaps you can begin to understand how I became somewhat fearful for the safety of my family while residing in Korea.

traying Yoo Byeung Eon ‘The Greed’, the value of the 10,000w bill is changed to the date of the accident, as are the GPS co-ordinates that replace the bill number. The death toll truly remained incomprehensible until I visited the memorial site in Ansan. I had seen many pictures, but seeing the scale of the place and how this continued to affect families from day to day was when it really sunk in. This prompted me to make the

Being a foreigner, even though married to a Korean and with permanent residency in the country, protesting or engaging in any form of political activity was, and still is, out of the question. Protests, demonstrations and petitions are still going on around us, today with the government still yet to make a clear plan on how they will find the corpses that remain submerged inside the sunken vessel. I began wondering how I could communicate this feeling in visual form as my thoughts still lingered over the students and their families as they tirelessly try and obtain closure in the form of answers. The media handling of the situation, without being too cynical was, at best, abysmal. Reports quickly flowed out that everyone had been saved, only for the harsh reality that hundreds were still trapped in the ship. I remember sitting in front of the TV day after day watching the number of dead rising. These numbers began to play a significant role I began developing visual representations of the tragedy. ‘The Ribbon’ is made up of 304 smaller ribbons with each one symbolizing a life lost where as in the image por-

final piece for this show, showing silhouetted figures passing by the flowered memorial wall. Traditionally in Korea, the dojang is given as a gift to signify reaching adulthood, a milestone that the majority of the casualties would not yet have arrived at. Historically, name stamps hold a permanence and dignity that I hope honor the lives of those that were unable to reach maturity. Both Korean and Chinese characters, as well as symbols, are carved into the dojang stamps. These carvings are relevant to each individual image and connect the media’s depiction of the individual picture to the physical delineation. The day I visited Ansan, I was given a tour of Danwon high school where the vast majority of the dead students received their education. The mother of the boy I depicted in ‘The Student’ was kind enough to show me around the eerily empty and lifeless second floor. I began to feel thankful. I was informed that I was sharing my birthday with one of the students, whose family had come to pay their respects. One of us was present. One was not.

MORE INFO: After Death, A Tiger’s Skin Remains: A Man Only Leaves His Name Gallery i, Insadong, 서울, 인사동, 갤러리 아이 Anguk Station (Line 3, Exit 6) / Jongak Station (Line 1 exit 11) 010-9891-3231 / martyn@m-art-yn.com www.egalleryi.co.kr / www.m-art-yn.com April 8th – 21st , 2015 between 11am-6pm (Closed on Tuesdays) Free

Anguk Station (line 3 exit 6) Insadong crossroad

Crown Bakery Sudo Pharmacy

Geongpyeong Dong

Deokwon Gallery

Geonguk carpark

Nakwon indoor music market

Starbucks Geumgang shoeshop Jonggak Station (line 1 exit 11)

Jongro 3 Ga

24 www.groovekorea.com April 2015

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

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Story by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring

Museums exhibiting a more practical experience this Children’s Day

Children’s Day (Inter)Activity

ne word synonymous with both Korean and Expat cultures is family. Annual celebrations are dedicated worldwide to Mothers, Fathers and even Grandparents with specific days to honour every family member equally. As summer quickly approaches, so does the return of arguably the most important celebratory family member; the Children. Celebrated in over 70 different countries annually, Children’s Day arrives in South Korea on May 5th. An official public holiday across the peninsula, the holiday was changed from its original name ‘Boy’s Day’ in 1970 to represent all children. The festival was first introduced for kids to express their independence and for parents to be honoured for the love, care and respect they offer their offspring unconditionally. Now, the event is firmly placed in the Korean festival calendar, guaranteeing that parents treat their children with gifts, excursions and specialty entertainment. Traditional games with other families can be seen in parks and parades with children dressed in hanbok are part of the street festivals that entire communities can get involved in. Celebrations are ubiquitous with many parks, zoos and movies waiving entrance fees or arranging special events, and museums are no exception. The Seoul Children’s Grand Park is a great place to start with a kids farm, a water playground and amusement park within the grounds. Admission to the park is free with the animal show costing 6,500 won for adults and 5,000 won for children. The park is also home to the newly opened Seoul Children’s Museum, offering cooking and performance workshops and a ‘Beyond Sensory’ play area at a cost of 4,000 won for those over 3 years old. Also in Seoul, The Children’s Museum is located in the National Museum compound and is billed as experience-centred. Highly interaction hands-on programs include a puzzle room, an energy playground and a library for kids to peruse. Out of the city, the Gyeonggi Children’s Museum is an independent offering, nestled in Suwon city. A firm focus on children, the museum brings together the family experience by operating a story section, a live vision and obligatory education area. Distinguished from other museums, the GCM is divided by four themes to expand young minds in the areas of Curious Children, Environmentally-Conscious Children, Global Minded Children and Healthy Children. Exploring the human body, eco-friendly solutions and an architectural construction zone, this guarantees to be an energetic yet educational day out. Further afield, the Busan Museum Of Art has a designated Children’s gallery aimed toward making art more accessible for children. A basement floor is dedicated to the younger generation, and brings an open-air sculpture park for sunnier days. In addition to the 16 gallery halls of work, educational rooms and interactive exhibitions (which include inviting children to draw their own offerings) continue to connect the community to art. Capture the energetic, interactive spirit of Children’s Day this year with a visit to one of the many cultural offerings across the country.

MORE INFO: Seoul Children’s Grand Park 216, Neungdong-ro, Gwangjin-gu, Seoul, Korea (Neung-dong) Subway: Konkuk University Station (line 2), Achasan Station (Line 5, Exit 4), Children’s Grand Park Station (Line 7, Exit 1) Bus: 302, 721 (blue bus), 2222, 3216, 3220, 4212 (green bus) and numerous other bus routes serve the park. See the website for more details. www.new.sisul.or.kr/global/main/en/sub/park.jsp 5am-10pm (park), 9am-5pm (zoo) Free (but some fees apply for animal show and museum) MORE INFO: The Children’s Museum (in the National Museum complex) 137, Seobinggo-ro (168-6, Yongsan-dong 6-ga), Yongsan-gu, Seoul, 140-797, Korea Subway: Ichon Station (Line 4 and Jungang Line, Exit 2) Bus: 502 or 0018 (For National Museum of Korea) www.museum.go.kr/site/homepage/menu/ viewMenu?menuid=007001001 02-2077-9000 9am-6pm Tuesday to Sunday Free MORE INFO: Gyeonggi Children’s Museum #6, Sanggal-dong, Giheung-gu, Yongin-si, Gyeonggi-do Bus: Alight at Gyeonggi Provincial Museum From Gangnam, take 1560 or 5001-1 bus. From Suwon Station, take10-5 or 37 bus. www.old.gcmuseum.or.kr/en/ 031-270-8600 10am-6pm Sunday to Friday, 10am-7pm on Saturdays Free (under 12 months), 4,000 won (over 12 months) MORE INFO: Children’s Gallery (in the Busan Museum of Art complex) 58, APEC-ro, Haeundae-gu, Busan Subway: Busan Museum Of Art (Line 2, Exit 5) Bus: 36, 39, 40, 63, 63-1, 139, 140, 141, 142, 235, 239, 320 (For Busan Museum of Art) www.art.busan.go.kr/eng/06_other/other01.jsp 082-41-740-2602 10am-8pm Tuesday to Friday Free

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The Brief Beauty Of The Blossoms

Story by Simon Slater

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

The Change In Season Brings A Changing View

“N

doesn’t possess the most fertile soil, Mother Nature is given a helping hand at the base of the mountain in the Yeonhui-dong neighbourhood. The artificial island has been sculpted to be a perfect leisure experience: classical music emanates from fake rocks, an impressive waterfall descends from great heights at designated times and every spring flower is planted in their right place. Between the spattering of numerous academies, themed entertainment venues and weekend activities, the emergence of young lives in Seoul seems much like the start of the

“Nothing is static. Everything is evolving. Everything is falling apart,” says fictitious character Tyler Durden in Chuck Palahniuk’s novel Fight Club. Cherry Blossom trail– too regimented, unnaturally engineered. Where are the groups of kids roaming around Seoul’s neighborhoods in their spare time? Unfortunately, study takes precedence over play. Still, when you see the happy families hanging out on the mountains or the park (sometimes literally), kids seem as happy as they would anywhere else in the world. The season brings the briefest of windows in which to experience the changes that occur. Be quick to appreciate the lessons in birth

and decay that the cherry blossoms teach us each year. As they descend as rapidly as they present themselves, the soft, snow white confetti sprinkles down onto the hard concrete and we’re reminded once again that nature can be the cruellest of mistresses. She offers us her most ornamental of charms for but a fleeting moment before returning to the familiar shades of green that take the reigns from there on in. In a country infatuated with anti-wrinkle creams and surgery procedures pursuing perfection, perhaps more people should look to the cherry blossom for beauty tips. Our own skin-deep beauty is as the rest of nature – transient, ephemeral, prone to displays of brief magnificence yet in a constant state of flux. Observing this in the natural world to reflect upon is a good reminder of our inevitable mortality. Although the physical transformations of Seoul’s citizens can be seen more in light of adaptation than vanity - Korea’s hiring practices are as unforgiving as nature itself. After all, “A moment was the most you could ever expect from perfection” says Fight Club’s Tyler. So don’t mourn the inevitable loss of such natural beauty, for it was it’s brevity that creates such a spectacle. Cherish the moment when you are in it, be it an engulfment of cherry blossoms or any other passing occurrence.

April 2015 www.groovekorea.com 25

othing is static. Everything is evolving. Everything is falling apart,” says fictitious character Tyler Durden in Chuck Palahniuk’s novel Fight Club. Certainly not in Seoul, a city whose internal cogs turn so quickly, it wouldn’t know how to slow down. So too for the country’s distinct seasons, which are vastly over-proportioned in the case of summer and winter. Spring’s salvation doesn’t last long. The first warm winds of the year in April allow many things to bloom in Korea, including the first empty rice wine bottles of the season sprouting all over the country’s convenience store patio ‘beer gardens’. The unveiling of the lower half of the nation’s young women contrasts with the covering of all things flesh-related in the old. Floral arrangements are furiously installed in any green space around the cities as the first buds begin to emerge. One flower then explodes into the urban scenery like a ticking time bomb of exquisite beauty the cherry blossom. The biggest celebrated event in the Spring calendar starts at Mount Ansan in the North East of Seoul, far from Yeouido’s madding crowds. The trees may be artificially clustered, but their concentration is so engulfing once in their midst that it only enhances the natural phenomenon. The celebrations don’t stop there. As Korea

C OMMUNITY OMMUNI TY Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

The Cherry Chest

With the cherry blossomâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fleeting visit this month, hereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a few places to catch the action.

26 www.groovekorea.com April 2015

Story and photos by Hallie Bradley

pring is gracing the country with mild winds and sunny blue skies. Everyone is ready to welcome the new season and the most anticipated event of spring will bloom forth any day now. Yes, the cherry blossoms that will be the talk of the town with their blushing pink and white hues will be blooming soon. Do you know where you will go to bask in their beauty and perhaps get out your selfie stick for a few photos? Check out these events for the top cherry blossom festivals around the country.

Jinhae Gunhangje Festival April 1, 2015 ~ April 10, 2015

This is the largest cherry blossom festival on the peninsula with more than 2 million visitors each year. This naval port city boasts flowering cherry blossom trees that have been growing for more than 100 years. Flowers bloom while a military band parades down the street and firework shows light up the sky at night all in commemoration of Admiral Yi Sun Shin. The flowering highlight of this festival is the 800 kilometer stretch of train tracks that are lined parallel with the trees as well as a 1.5 kilometer long stretch of stream that creates a blushing petal tunnel to walk through. Take an intercity bus to Jinhae and from the terminal, follow the millions of people. OR take a train to Jinhae Station and walk/ follow the people to the festival venue.

April 3, 2015 ~ April 5, 2015

Gyeongpo Cherry Blossom Festival April 5, 2015 ~ April 13, 2015

Take a walk along the 4.3 kilometer path lined with cherry blossom trees that circles Gyeongpo Lake. The trip to Gyeongpo will leave you feeling happy with spring and ready to jump into summer with the beautiful white sand beach that sits just beyond the lake. While in Gyeongpo, visit the kitschy gramophone museum and eat the saltwater tofu that this area is famous for. Take an intercity bus to Gangneung and outside the station catch bus 202 to Gyeongpodae.

Hangang Yeouido Spring Flower Festival April 3, 2015 – April 8, 2015

If you have no time to get out of the city, have no fear. You can still take part in the coming of spring with the 1,500 cherry blossom trees that line the roads of Yeouido island in Seoul. The roads are blocked off for pedestrians to roam freely from tree to tree and sidewalk to sidewalk. With sun shining down on the flowers by day and lights lighting up the place at night, the cherry blossoms will be ready and waiting whenever you do find the time to visit. Street performances and flower installations as well as cartoonists and street food vendors also join the crowds to add to the experience. Access via the Seoul Subway: Dangsan Station exit 4, Yeouinaru Station exit 1, Yeouido Station exit 5 or National Assembly Station exit 1 or 6. Visit one of these festivals or just find the nearest patch of gorgeous blossoming trees near you and enjoy them for the couple of weeks that they bloom this spring.

APRIL

CLASS

K-Pop Dance Class 4.30-6pm Cost: 5,000 won a class/10,000 a month 5th floor, M-Plaza Building, 27 Myeong-Dong 8-gil, Jung-gu, Seoul Basic Hanji Craft Class 2-3.30pm / Cost: Free 5th floor, M-Plaza Building, 27 Myeong-Dong 8-gil, Jung-gu, Seoul

FESTIVAL

Jinhae Gunhangje Festival Check with website gunhang.changwon.go.kr Tongsin-dong, Jinhae-gu, Changwon-si, Gyeongsangnam-do every Thursday

APRIL

3-8

5-13

APRIL

Festival

APRIL

Gyeongpo Cherry Blossom Festival Check with website: www.gntour.go.kr 365, Gyeongpo-ro, Gangneung-si, Gangwon-do

April 2015 www.groovekorea.com 27

APRIL

EVERY FRIday

KISS Salsa Classes 7.30-8.30pm (beginner) 8.30-9.30pm (intermediate) Cost: 10,000 won non-band nights/15,000 won band nights SAMOS, Yonsero-5-dakil 22-3, 3rd floor, Chang Cheon-dong Sodemun-gu, Seoul

Korean Movie Screening (with English Subtitles) 2-4pm / 4-6pm (Q&A) Free (5,000/7,000 fee for directors Q&A) 5th floor, M-Plaza Building, 27 Myeong-Dong 8-gil, Jung-gu, Seoul SUNday MONday

3-5

CLASS

Movie Screening

MORE INFO Hallie Bradley writes on her travels in Korea, daily life, the culture and traditions as well as on lessons learned from her Korean rock star husband and in-laws. Hallie started her blog The Soul of Seoul in 2010 to stay motivated to keep enjoying this country that she has been calling home since 2006 and so far the enjoyment hasn’t ceased www.thesoulofseoul.net.

APRIL

Hangang Yeouido Spring Flower Festival Check with website: www.ydp.go.kr Yeouido Park, Yeouido-dong, Yeongdeungpo-gu, Seoul-si

Advanced Hanji Craft Class (4 week program) 2-3.30pm / Cost: 10,000 per month 5th floor, M-Plaza Building, 27 Myeong-Dong 8-gil, Jung-gu, Seoul

APRIL

FRIday

Festival

CLASS

every Saturday

1-10

Samulnori Class (8 week program) 3-5pm / Cost: Free 5th floor, M-Plaza Building, 27 Myeong-Dong 8-gil, Jung-gu, Seoul

Hwagae Cherry Blossom Festival Check with website: toureng.hadong.go.kr Maekjeon-gil, Hwagae-myeon, Hadong-gun, Gyeongsangnam-do

APRIL

CLASS

FESTIVAL

FRiday Wednesday

Wednesday

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

In 1931, villagers planted 200 peach trees and 1,200 cherry blossom trees along what is now the “10ri Cherry Blossom Road”. It is said that if you walk along this 4 kilometer stretch holding hands with your lover, you will live happily together forever. If you don’t want to take a lover, grab a friend and maybe you’ll become best friends forever. Visitors to Hwagae can also visit Hwagae Market and try some delicious chamge-tang, or king crab soup. From Nambu Bus Terminal take a bus to Hadong at 6:30AM, 8:00AM, 9:30AM, 11:30AM, 1:30PM, 3:30PM, 5:30PM, 7:30PM or 10:00PM and get off at Hwagae Terminal.

every Wednesday

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Hwagae Cherry Blossom Festival

C OMMUNI TY Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

Life’s Just Bourie

Eun Hye Jo talks about Seoul Fashion Week, contrasts and Bourie

28 www.groovekorea.com April 2015

Story by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring / Photos courtesy of Bourie

eoul Fashion Week’s bi-annual show is an amazing opportunity for domestic designers to break into the fashion world. Alongside the established Seoul Collection artists, the event’s most niche and interesting addition is the Generation Next runway. Set aside in its own annex in the Dongdaemun Design Plaza, every March and October, an elite group of 21 young, new and aspiring designers are invited to showcase their work in the most important 15 minute show of their lives so far. Eun Hye Jo was selected from 80 potential labels to appear in a prestigious slot at last month’s show. Her label Bourie is still in its infancy but Eun Hye’s passion and vibrancy more than makes up for her new walk in the fashion world. Bourie itself consists of the Korean words ‘rich’ and ‘control’ to represent the quality and expression of the collection. The Fall/Winter 2015 line does just that with its rich monochrome composition using powerful contrasts to control Eun Hye’s opposite juxtaposition in her designs

The designer explains her creative direction further, likening herself to a vision of a girl lost between the worlds of reality and eroticism, bringing opposites together and recognizing taboo in spots of color such as the burnt orange contrasts in some of her work. Additionally, the designer often uses two lengths, two tones and two styles (flare and drainpipe) in her womenswear, menswear and accessories which to some may seem like a challenge, but the designer smiles modestly at this assumption explaining “I like experimenting with proportion”. All Bourie collections feature individual round cuts and two-length characteristics. Stemming from the first collection’s signature penguin coat, Eun Hye explains enthusiastically how the short front and round hem features are a favorite of hers with additional longer splits at the back designed for more flexibility for ladies (especially when sitting down). Fashionable yet practical, she agrees. Eun Hye has started in the fashion world with what she refers to as “a fun and serious” interpretation of clothes. Originally a classical music composition student

at Ewha Women’s University, it was when she studied English in New York in 2005 that the American city opened her eyes to design. She returned to Korea to study at the Samsung Art and Design Institute (SADI) in Nonhyeon where she met her mentor and friend Professor Seung-Hyun Kim. “She showed me that everything except nature starts from the human’s heart”, gushes Eun Hye proudly, admitting her mentor’s support has been invaluable throughout Bourie’s nurturing. Her current Spring/Summer Feutre collection was deeply inspired by her 18 month stint at the Academie Internationale Coup de Paris (AICP) where she studied about pattern design using felt. “I was fascinated by the fabric” she says, recognizing this as the turning point for Eun Hye to return to the peninsula to pursue her fashion dreams. This fun and serious interpretation of clothes has now materialized into a range of felt bags, printed cotton dresses and overcoats in pink, beige, white and black, which are all affordable at under $200. Eun Hye predicts this lighter, printed fabric to be all the range this summer and hopes she will be right.

SATURday

APRIL

Movie Screening

English Movie Screening (with Korean Subtitles) – Great Expectations 3-5pm / Cost: Free 5th floor, M-Plaza Building, 27 MyeongDong 8-gil, Jung-gu, Seoul

K-Food Cooking Class 11am-12.30pm / Cost: 10,000 per class 5th floor, M-Plaza Building, 27 MyeongDong 8-gil, Jung-gu, Seoul AND EVERYDAY~!

MAY

Bourie MUST HAVE item!

Bourie’s summer range has several Felt bags in the Feutre Par Bourie collection. The bags feature the signature light and dark theme with contrasting felt fabric interior and fake leather exterior selections. Available in a 2mm and 4mm fabric size, the clutch is for everyday items and the bigger tote and shoulder-sized bags are a practical yet stylish solution. Available at all Bourie stockists, the 2mm design is priced at $100-150 and the 4mm at a reasonable $40-70

GO TO WHERE

FRIday

APRIL

Seoul Children’s Grand Park 5am-10pm (park) 9am-5pm (zoo) Cost: Free (to park) + additional 216, Neungdong-ro, Gwangjin-gu, Seoul, Korea (Neung-dong) The Children’s Museum 9am-6pm (Tues-Sun) Cost: Free 137, Seobinggo-ro (168-6, Yongsan-dong 6-ga), Yongsan-gu, Seoul, 140-797, Korea Gyeonggi Children’s Museum 10am-6pm (Sun-Fri) 10am-7pm (Sat) Cost: 4,000 won over 12 months old #6, Sanggal-dong, Giheung-gu, Yongin-si, Gyeonggi-do Busan Museum of Art 10am-8pm (Tues-Fri) / Cost: Free 58, APEC-ro, Haeundae-gu, Busan

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

CLASS

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The future of Bourie looks rich and controlled with potential show slots in New York and Paris later this year and a fourth collection in the pipeline for Spring/Summer 16. Eun Hye’s creative visions don’t stop there with ideas for perfume, restaurants and fashion video aspirations. However, whatever her goals, the designer’s main passion will always be fashion; as Eun Hye says “Fashion is a play on the stage called the world”.

MORE INFO Bourie’s Feutre collection is available directly from the showroom or from the following stockists: AROUND THE CORNER - Garosugil: 532-2, Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-Gu, Seoul (02-545-5325) - A.T Corner: 1f, 21 Myeongdong 8Na-Gil, Jung-Gu, Seoul (02-775-6865) - Doota: B1 Doosan Tower, 275 Jangchungdan-Ro, Jung-gu, Seoul (02- 3398-5862) A LAND - Myeongdong: 53-6, 2ga Myeongdong, Jung-gu, Seoul (070-7820-7530) - Garosugil: 548-5 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul (070-7820-7545) - COEX: F113 B1, Live Plaza, COEX Mall, 513 Youngdongdaero, Gangnam-Gu, Seoul (02-7820-2259) - Online: www.a-land.co.kr SERIES - Itaewon: 683-141, Hannam-Dong, Yongsan-Gu, Seoul (02-797-0710) - Gwangbok: Series Corner, 7 Jungang-Ro, Gwangbok-Dong, Busan (051 -255-1218) - Online: www.byseries.com April 2015 www.groovekorea.com 29

2F 560-6, Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-Gu, Seoul Subway station: Sinsa station (Line 3, Exit 8) 02-2201-8321 www.bourie.com madame.bourie@gmail.com www.facebook.com/eunhye.jo.7731 MON-FRI / 10am – 7pm

30 www.groovekorea.com April 2015

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

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Neig hb o rhood Wat c h

Seoul Global Cultural Center

Unwrap a cultural gem of activities at the SGCC in Myeongdong

Story by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring / Photos courtesy of Seoul Global Cultural Center

outh Korea has always been welcoming toward the expat community so it comes as no surprise that the Seoul Metropolitan Government have pulled out all the stops to offer a myriad of support services. Dotted around the ever-growing capital, the Seoul Global Center, seven Global Village centers and a central Seoul Global Culture Center are all ready and waiting to bring visitors and expats alike that bit closer to Korea. The Seoul Global Center is geared toward newer residents who have just arrived on the peninsula. Situated in the same building as the Sejongro branch of the Seoul Immigration office (near Jonggak Station), further services include exchanging an overseas driver’s license for an international one, bank account and tax assistance, arranging a mobile phone contract and help with pursing insurance claims. Once all those basic necessities are taken care of, then individual Global Villages around the capital can help newer residents become more familiar with their local municipality. Divided between the Yeonnam, Yeoksam, Seorae, Itaewon, Ichon, Yeongdeungpo and Seongbuk centres, monthly events bring together local communities in areas which have attracted a mixture of French, Japanese, Chinese and other multi-cultural residents. However, nestled in the centre of Myeongdong’s tourist hub, the M-Plaza building’s fifth floor houses Seoul’s Global Cultural Center and is perhaps the most entertaining centre of all. Sophie Yang, the centre’s General Manager, speaks energetically of the cultural programs, special events and community opportunities that are available.

First, the center offers weekly cultural programs with Sophie’s aim to provide a different class each day of the week. Perhaps geared more toward tourists (although residents are more than welcome to try) is the daily Hanbok costume photo shoot. Available Mondays to Thursdays at 10.30am and 2pm for two hour periods, visitors can select, change into and take photos in the designated photo area in traditional Korean attire. Fridays to Sundays brings the D.I.Y Painting session where anyone of any age can design and decorate Korean traditional face masks or paper lamps to take home. For further personalised instruction, a weekly painting class is held on Thursdays for a more intimate and focused experience with a trained instructor. To complete the weekly program, those interested in Hanji have an option of a basic (Wednesdays) or Advanced (Fridays) class to hone their paper making artistic skills. Away from the staples, a schedule of special events have been organised based on feedback from residents and their interests. Currently, the Cultural Center offers a K-Pop dance class for all ages with a qualified instructor. Participants can learn a chosen pop song, watch the video and dance like the stars in routines which could double up as exercise classes in smaller groups. For the music enthusiast, the center’s current project is a 8-week samullori experience, leading up to a performance day at the National Folk Museum on May 20th. Sophie explains how those with any musical experience can learn the basic drumming techniques for the 30-strong person performance.

C OMMUNI TY Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

Nothing is more cultural than the monthly K-Food cooking class, taking place on April 17th with the cheapest overheads of 10,000 won for food costs and cooking facilities. Additionally, for the movie buff, bi-monthly movie screenings alternate a Korean movie (with English subtitles) and an English movie on the first and second Saturday of the month. April even brings Korean film director Park Kwang-Su to the Myeongdong grounds on the 4th with a directors Q&A available for 7,000 won (and 5,000 won for students) in a second session after the movie showing. A week later, on the 11th April, the classic Great Expectations will also be shown on the big screen. The Cultural Center is a hidden jewel of activity and most activities are offered for free. Sophie expresses the Government’s vision to provide non-profit educational and entertaining classes to the expat community to broaden interests and to help residents understand more about the community they are living in. Some programs do have a 5,000 or 10,000 won stipend to pay for rental, instructor or material fees with a majority of free classes supporting volunteers and promoting their services in the community. Most classes have expat exclusivity and guarantees to open socialising and educational opportunities for residents. The center has even offered their two seminar rooms and 150-person capacity Haechi Hall as suitable venues for one-off community gatherings or more established weekly social group meetings. Sophie explains the Center’s venues are open to anyone from the Expat community and are rental free (aside from additional charges for special equipment needed), providing there is a cultural element and community focus (such as welcoming newer residents or promoting an art from a specific country). Although the Cultural Center was created in 2009, the Center’s fifth floor M-Plaza home is only 12 months old and has that community feeling. Residents can drop by, meet friends and even take part in the multitude of programs that are offered. Registration is easy via email, Facebook or phone and Chinese, Japanese and English translators are available in the foyer. Although a fitting program exists already, more outdoor activities are planned for the summer and the centre is always open to requests. Sophie says “we want foreign residents to learn about and find out about our programs and for them to say what they want from us”. With a comprehensive program of events already available in downtown Seoul, it seems a shame to miss out on all the activities that the Seoul Global Cultural Center has to offer. Classes offered at the Seoul Global Cultural Center in Myeongdong Weekly Events (Free)

Special Events (Free)

Paid events

Hanbok Costume Photoshoot (Mon-Thurs: 10.30am-12.30pm and 2pm-4pm)

Samulnori Class (8-week program) (Thursdays until 14th May: 3pm-5pm)

K-Pop Dance Class (Wednesdays: 4.30pm-6pm) 5,000 won a class / 10,000 won a month

D.I.Y Painting (Fri-Sun: 10.30am-4.30pm)

Movie Screenings 4th April: 2pm-6pm Korean Movie (with English subtitles) 11th April: 3pm-5pm English Movie (With Korean subtitles)

Advanced Hanji Craft Class (4 week program) (Fridays: 2pm-3.30pm) 10,000 won a month

Korean Painting Class (Thursdays 2pm-3.30pm)

Basic Hanji Craft Class (Wednesdays: 2pm-3.30pm)

K-Food Cooking Class 17th April: 11am-12.30pm 10,000 won a class

April 2015 www.groovekorea.com 31

MORE INFO: Seoul Global Cultural Center 5th floor, M-Plaza Building, 27 Myeong-Dong 8-gil, Jung-gu, Seoul Subway: Myeong-dong Station (Line 4, Exit 6 or 8) 02-3789-7961 www.seoulculturalcenter.com seoulcenter3789@gmail.com www.facebook.com/Seoulcenter3789 10.30am-7.30pm (every day except New Year’s Day and Chuseok) Events are mainly free with some 5,000-10,000 won fees for some classes. Check the website or Facebook page for more details.

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

C OMMUNI TY

Neig hb o rhood Wat c h

SalsA

Salsa That Isn’t Just Gochujang

KISS brings the Latin dance experience to a weekend near you

Story by Sam Mardini / Photos by Sam Mardini

32 www.groovekorea.com April 2015

ourteen years ago when I started dancing Salsa, the idea that I’d one day be hosting a Salsa community in Korea would be as crazy as a man riding a horse singing about a ritzy neighborhood in Seoul. But here we are, the Korea International Salsa Site (KISS): a group that was created to bring Koreans and Expats together in their love of Salsa dancing. The popularity of Salsa dancing stems from its many benefits. It’s a great escape from our daily stresses and routine. A night of social dancing can also mean plenty of exercise while meeting lots of new people. It doesn’t require any fancy clothes, people dress casual and just want to have fun. Salsa can be romantic, playful, sexy, or full of attitude depending on the song. As a potential salsero or salsera (salsa dancer), you could

instantly connect with a salsa community in any city worldwide! Seoul has the biggest Salsa scene in Asia, far surpassing Tokyo, Shanghai, Hong Kong and not to mention most cities in Europe and North America. On any given weekend there are many Salsa clubs in Hongdae and Gangnam filled with Koreans dancing late into the early morning. On Saturdays alone, Club “Turn” in Gangnam averages over 500 salsa dancers throughout the night. On Fridays Club “Bonita” in Hongdae has around 400 dancers, and then there are the smaller clubs attracting 75-150 people each. These are all trained dancers, and this is happening in Korea of all places! This was quite a shocking find for me and as an avid Salsero I suddenly found myself in paradise! However, I would often be the only foreigner at these clubs; obviously still a hidden jewel from the Expat community with99

percent of participants being Korean dancers – but man can they dance! My salsa friends visiting from overseas were always shocked by this, often asking how the dance could be so popular in a city so far from the Caribbean and NYC where salsa dancing emerged. The answer to that could be explained in a whole other article but suffice to say the Korean work ethic carries over to their hobbies: when they learn something, they want to master it! In light of all this, the KISS initiative was put together by Sara Rose (USA), Willman Morcillo (USA), Miranda Michelle (Canada) and me, Sam Mardini (Canada). We all shared a passion for Salsa and wanted to host a night that would inform Expats and Koreans interested in this exciting, intricate, and energetic dance that it is thriving here. KISS started with dance classes 5 years ago at a small club in the back alleys of Itaewon,

university students to English teachers to businessmen and anything in between. Our classes always emphasize fun and enjoyment of the dance, and while at the beginning it might seem like a lot to take in, like all things it becomes easier the more it’s done. The Beginner 1 classes are open classes, meaning no registration is needed because each class covers the basics and one of the foundation salsa moves. Beginner 2 classes build on the foundation moves further, & our Intermediate classes take those foundation moves and shows more intricate patterns & steps. The classes usually have an even ratio of men and women, but if not, we have numerous partner changes so you’ll eventually have a partner. Salsa does take time to learn as it has a particular rhythm and is a partner rather than a solo dance, but with a little commitment and training anyone can pick up the dance steps and enjoy everything the Seoul salsa scene has to offer. We hope to see you on the dance floor, and as my salsa teacher used to say: live, laugh, love and dance!

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

(an even more sensual dance akin to Tango hailing from Angola). The group’s highlights include hosting the first Kizomba workshops in Korea by an international instructor in 2013 with the support of the Angola Embassy. In 2012, KISS hosted international Bachata superstars “Ataca y La Alemana” for a Bachata festival in Gangnam. The site’s biggest event to date was last year’s Mambo Dance Festival in Gangnam, featuring some of Korea’s top Salsa performers, and internationally renowned salsa group “Zafire” all the way from NYC. Hundreds of dancers from all over Korea were joined by enthusiasts from China, Taiwan, and Japan in an event that brought people together from all over the region to share their love of Salsa! KISS continues to help promote the scene in Seoul with our salsa classes to Expats & Koreans interested in learning. These classes are free with the club’s cover and anyone can join our Beginner 1 class (with no partner needed). Our students come from all walks of life; from

C OMMUNI TY

but the club owners had more interest in people drinking than dancing, so we had to move to another club that was more supportive of dancers. After a bit of club hopping, we eventually hosted our night at the biggest Latin bar this side of the Han River, Caliente, enjoying packed Salsa evenings every weekend. When the owner retired and moved back to the US, KISS moved to Somos in Sinchon. Alongside the supportive owner Miquel Gonzalel and his Spanish classes, KISS has established this place as our home, promoting numerous Latin events. Every Saturday at Somos brings live Latin bands, dance classes, and our community of expats and Koreans together to enjoy the sounds of Salsa, Bachata, Merengue and Raggaeton. Over the past 5 years, KISS has hosted numerous Latin dance events ranging from full on weekend festivals to dance workshops to promote our love of Salsa and other Latin dances. These dances range from different Bachata styles (a sensual Dominican dance), Salsa styles, and even the sexy new dance Kizomba

MORE INFO: KISS

Yonsei-ro-5-dakil 22-3, 3rd floor, Changcheon-dong Seodaemun-gu, Seoul 서울특별시 서대문구 연세로5다길 22-3, 3층 (창천동)

Somos’ is 02-322-0913. www.korealatinandsalsa.com koreasalsa@gmail.com

April 2015 www.groovekorea.com 33

· Drop by our site www.korealatinandsalsa.com or our facebook group: “korea intl salsa site” for maps to clubs, special events, Salsa festivals, where to get dance shoes, and our weekly classes · KISS weekly Saturday beginner & intermediate Salsa classes average 30-35 students at Somos in Sinchon. (15,000 won band nights twice a month and 10,000 won non band nights) · Bachata classes are bimonthly (next course begins in April, 10,000 won, check site for details), · Every few months, KISS hosts international guest instructors to share their passion for Latin dance. Check the website for updates & more details.

I N S I G H T Edited by Anita McKay (anita@groovekorea.com)

Defecting From

North Korea’s

Middle Class Freedom is worth the struggle Story by Anita McKay / Photos by Dylan Goldby Translation by Caroline Mahon

hen *Kim Chol-soo and his wife, *Kim Youngok, first arrived in South Korea they had doubts about their new life. It was not what they had expected. Worries over finances arose soon after their arrival, and the government-provided apartment failed to offer them the same comforts as their home back in North Korea. Their first few months living in the South were difficult — a far cry from the life they had just left behind. “At first I felt regret,” Chol-soo says, thinking back to when he first arrived in the South almost five years ago. “When I came to South Korea I was very worried about economics, and I wondered if I had done something I would regret. We lived in an apartment provided by the government, but it wasn’t a nice

apartment. At first I felt worried about the decision we had made.” Unlike many who have defected, Chol-soo and Young-ok did not experience the worst of North Korea. They lived a more privileged life — a middle-class existence. What they describe couldn’t be further from the stories of torture, enslavement and other inhumane acts recorded in a report by the UN Commission of Inquiry on human rights in the Democratic People’s Republic of Korea early last year. Their defection to the South in 2010 was driven by a desire for more freedom, to escape life under a dictator. “People in North Korea thought that Kim Jong-il was a very poisonous leader,” Chol-soo says. “He knew how bad the conditions were during the famine, but he didn’t do anything about it, and as a dictator he continually lied to

When I came to South Korea I was very worried about economics, and I wondered if I had done something I would regret. Kim Chol-soo, North Korean defector

the people. He was really a poison.” Despite their wealth in the North, living under a totalitarian regime that showed no signs of change pushed them to leave. After arriving in the South it took some time to adapt to their new life. “It took time to adjust to the change from a higher position in society to a much lower one,” Chol-soo adds.

Adapting to life in the South

Kim Chol-soo, North Korean defector

April 2015 www.groovekorea.com 35

“Sometimes, at work my co-workers won’t talk to me or treat me the same way as everyone else because I am North Korean,” she says. “Maybe some people are worried that because of my background I don’t have the right skills to work.” Young-ok has worked hard to prove herself and has since gained 12 certificates in her area of work. “Now, nobody doubts my skills, and everybody talks to me. I accept that I am from North Korea and so do my colleagues,” she says.

Edited by Anita McKay (anita@groovekorea.com)

It took time to adjust to going from a higher position in society to a much lower one.

I N S I G H T

As they settled into their new life it became apparent that some of the information they had received about life in the South wasn’t entirely true. “The lifestyle in South Korea I had previously imagined was very different from the reality,” Chol-soo says. “We had seen a lot of dramas and while we were watching them we thought, ‘Ah, Korea — this is what it will be like.’ ” Unfortunately, their new life did not resemble those of the characters in “Autumn in My Heart,” “Stairs to Heaven” or “The General’s Son.” Government housing failed to recreate the idyllic life they had envisioned, and their middle-class life ceased to exist. “In North Korea we were middle-class and very comfortable, but here we have less money,” Young-ok says. “The decision to come to South Korea was hard,” Chol-soo says. “We gave up everything we had, and when we first arrived our lives were difficult.” He describes the difficulties that they faced as subtle, rather than a great shock, although the sight of women in short skirts was something he didn’t expect. “You can almost see their panties,” he says. “It’s not really culture shock, but as a man I think, ‘Oh, what’s that?’” Along with their initial struggles over finances and the hardship that leaving family behind brings, they had difficulty understanding the South Korean accent and, in Young-ok’s case, building a career. “Developing my professional and technical skills in the workplace was difficult at first,” she says. “I had a hard time building a career.” In the North, Young-ok had quit her job as a librarian when she got married. Eager to begin working again, she enrolled in a threemonth certificate program when she arrived in the South. However, colleagues’ misperceptions about North Koreans created an uneasy working environment for her.

While the two countries share a language, To ensure that his business remained abovethe difference in accent is apparent. When board, he continually had to pay off the police they first arrived they found it difficult to — who, he says, happily accepted bribes. attune their ears to the different intonation “It is a system,” Young-ok says. “The goods and manner of speaking. Their own accents, from China come by car and the police both foreign to South Koreans, were met with cu- protect the cars and extort bribes from (the riosity when they engaged in conversation drivers).” The payoffs ranged from $20 to with locals. $30 (worth about 55,000 South Korean won “When people would hear me speak they today), which they say was “expensive” by would ask if I was really a Korean person,” North Korean standards. Chol-soo says. “Because of our accents, The practice of bribing police officers did where we are from always comes up imme- not only protect their business; it also guardiately in conversation. Sometimes people anteed their personal safety. think we are from China instead, or gyopos “If you paid bribes you would not need to be (ethnic Koreans raised abroad).” afraid,” Chol-soo explains. While neither of them shies away from tellTheir middle-class life, while ordinary to ing people where they are from, their answer them, differs greatly from the personal acusually elicits the same reaction. counts North Korea has become synony“‘Oh, wow, you are from North Korea,’ is mous with. Stories of prison camps and unwhat a lot of people say,” Chol-soo says. “Usu- bearably harsh living conditions are common ally, people have a lot of questions right away. among escapees. The gap between the rich A lot of North Koreans tell people that they and poor — the city and the countryside — is are from China instead, but we always say pre-prescribed by the “seongbun” (social stathat we are from North Korea.” tus) system, which determines where North Young-ok says that people they meet often Koreans will live, what occupations they can have misconceptions or make hasty judg- have and the level of education they receive, ments about them and their lives in the North. depending on the history of their families’ “Our lives are far more similar to theirs than loyalty to the regime. people realize,” she says. Young-ok explains that while they were aware of a gap between the rich and the poor, they were oblivious to the atrocities being committed in their country. Middle-class life “It was only when we came here that we in the North She describes a middle-class life in North heard stories about other people getting in Korea as a life not that different from what is trouble and being sent to jail,” Young-ok says. It wasn’t until Chol-soo and Young-ok were experienced in the South. “North Korea has a dictator and there is no getting acquainted with their new lives that free speech,” she says. “However, overall, life they learned of the full scope of the abuse is more or less just the same there as it is any- that was occurring in their homeland. “We watched a PowerPoint presentation where. People go to work, people date, people make friendships and go to school — it is a about pregnant women in prison camps in country of ordinary people, living ordinary North Korea who were forced to have abortions,” Young-ok says. “We couldn’t believe lives.” Their “ordinary” lives were filled with work this — we had never heard of this before. We that left them with little personal time at were close with many police officers and offiweekends. Chol-soo owned a private busi- cials and we would entertain them as guests ness selling household electronics from Chi- at our home sometimes. “The officers we were close with, they were na. He worked day and night to ensure his business remained successful, but had to be just our friends, it doesn’t seem like this cautious not to cross the line that separates would happen unless the people were very serious criminals and then treated as such. success and illegal activity. “If my business had grown too large it would We, and everybody else that we knew, were have become illegal,” he says. “People are just such ordinary people,” she says. Young-ok says that they were “perplexed” not allowed to earn a large personal income. Even though my business wasn’t necessarily when they first heard of the abuse. illegal, I always had to be careful in my trans- “The police are unjust,” she says. “There are no human rights.” actions not to earn too much.”

I N S I G H T Edited by Anita McKay (anita@groovekorea.com)

y m g and n i p nal ls in s o l ve ssio skil e wa e D ofe cal lac . pr chni rkp first te e wo lt at , or t c k u e h t ffic ng-o def di You orean Kim rth K No

Escaping to the South

I N S I G H T Edited by Anita McKay (anita@groovekorea.com)

No more regrets

The doubts that Chol-soo and Young-ok had when they arrived in the South have disappeared. While their time in the South has at times been trying, they no longer doubt the decision they made. Instead of regret, they have a desire to learn and speak out about their lives in the North. “When we think about and talk about North Korea, we need to see the divide between the people and the government,” Young-ok says. “When we first came to South Korea we were much worse off than when we were living in North Korea,” Chol-soo says. “But that’s not true anymore. Now, our lives are very happy, and we are happier in South Korea.” MORE INFO www.teachnorthkoreanrefugees.org/ www.facebook.com/groups/451294051613839/

*Pseudonyms have been used to protect their identity This interview was facilitated by Casey Lartigue and Lee Eunkoo, co-directors at Teach North Korean Refugees, a volunteer program that matches North Korean refugees with English teaching volunteers.

April 2015 www.groovekorea.com 37

As a businessman Chol-soo was afforded the luxury of owning a phone and the ability to communicate with China to arrange trade. While most people receive information from outside of North Korea through South Korean radio broadcasts, his unique status gave them access to a wider range of information from China, which proved crucial in helping them leave the North. Chol-soo had a friend with family in China whom he contacted on their behalf. His friend, who joined the military straight after high school and quickly became a devoted soldier, was initially not interested in visiting his mother in China, but Chol-soo was “instantly captivated” by the idea. “Most people are aware of the better living conditions in China and I wanted to go and, even though my friend was disinterested, his mother urged us to come and see the better living conditions in China,” he says. “The idea to go see his mother instantly captivated my heart.” It was only In 2009 rumors when we came began to circulate here that we about Kim Jongheard stories il’s bad health. The idea of power being about other transferred to his people getting son pushed them to in trouble and being sent to jail. leave North Korea. “The successor to Kim Young-ok, Kim Jong-il was go- North Korean defector ing to be another dictator and we realized that North Korea was not going to change,” Chol-soo says. “Since I was young it was my dream to leave, but I didn’t leave until then.” With help from their friend’s mother in China, Chol-soo and Young-ok were able to arrange for a broker to take them to the South. For a fee of $2,000, which was paid on arrival in South Korea, the broker took care of everything — transportation, housing, and everyone involved along the way. Packing only a small bag and leaving all their money with their family, they began their journey to the South. Traveling by boat, bus and car, they crossed the Amnok River to Dandong, China, a major trading city for the North. From there they spent the next three days traveling over 4,800 kilometers (3,000 miles) to the Chinese city of Kunming, which connected them to Laos and then to Thailand, where there is a South Korean embassy. While their journey was successful they traveled under the constant fear of being caught. “Until we reached Thailand, I was afraid and anxious,” Chol-soo says. “We were always so afraid until we were on the plane to South Korea,” Young-ok recalls. As the plane touched down at Incheon International Airport, their fear disappeared and excitement set in as they began their new life in the South.

Is stealing other people’s ideas ethical in Korea?

38 www.groovekorea.com April 2015

Edited by Joe McPherson (food@groovekorea.com)

FOOD & DRINK

Re staur a n t Co py i n g

“Benchmar k in g ”

Story by Joe McPherson / Photos by Cord Jarvis and Chris Lewis

was walking with some out-of-town friends in Hongdae when I came across a restaurant that spelled the word “bistro” as “Beastro.” We’ll call it “Beastro V.” Yet this wasn’t the popular Hongdae restaurant run by brother-sister team Matthew J. and Catherine Chung. I thought maybe they’d expanded, yet the food looked more like fake Western food than Matthew’s iconic American comfort dishes. When I asked about it, Matthew said it wasn’t connected to The Beastro at all. The practice of ripping off successful business ideas is not new in Korea. A lot of the famous neighborhoods selling a special dish became so because one restaurant got big, so other copycats opened next to it. Previously, I worked as a web designer and web marketer in Korea. I was regularly pulled into meetings and shown rival companies’ web designs. I wasn’t asked to use them for inspiration. I was asked to copy them down to the pixel, a practice known as benchmarking. With the explosive popularity of new types of restaurants in Seoul, and with a lot of rich kids with more money than creativity, examples of benchmarking have become hilariously obvious. It’s one thing to copy a dish. A restaurant could just claim that recipes are common and can’t be owned. Yet when every design down to the napkin holders is precisely the same as that of another unique restaurant, it’s hard to hide that the restaurant is stealing. With Korea’s draconian libel laws (I’ve been interrogated in a police station for libel), I have to be careful how I write this. A few years ago, a popular Vancouver restaurant, Meat & Bread, contacted me with photographic proof of a restaurant in Seoul copying its concept and design down to the smallest detail, including putting the restaurant’s name in its design elements. The owner of Meat & Bread didn’t want to sue the restaurant. He was more baffled than anything. He would rather have had the Seoul restaurant ask for his permission or give credit where credit was due. The lobster craze started early this year, ignited by Itaewon restaurant Lobster Bar. It wasn’t long before another restaurant we’ll call “Lobster S.” came up with a strikingly similar lobster roll concept, but turned it into a Frankenstein creation with canned corn and squid ink rolls. There were rumors that people were digging through Lobster Bar’s trash, trying to find out who their supplier was. I guess they found them. They even copied their use of Ballast Point beer cartons to hold silverware. No, not just any beer container, Ballast Point.

CANADA (VANCOuVER)

KOREA

Some claim that imitation is the highest form of flattery. Others claim that they’re paying tribute to the originals. No, they’re not. They are taking concepts that took time and money to create and riding on their success. Legally, it’s a gray area. Yet when they start causing actual confusion with the dining public, it becomes a problem. Let’s return to “Beastro V.” I had read one account of a diner making a reservation at the original Beastro. They accidentally ended up at Beastro V. After a while, the original Beastro called to ask where they were. They lost real business because of this confusion. My old business partner, who grew up here and is just as frustrated as many Koreans are about this practice, thinks that Koreans aren’t taught that this is wrong. They don’t want to do anything wrong. They are just ignorant that this is theft. When Beastro V. was confronted about this, they came up with a few excuses. They claimed they used the word “Beastro” because they had an all-male staff, i.e., “beasts.” They were only sexists, not plagiarists. Yet after more prodding, they decided it wasn’t worth the battle. They stopped using the name “Beastro.” In many cases, restaurateurs who rip off others just want to run a business like anyone else. They don’t want to be unethical. They must be called out when they cross that line.

FOOD & DRINK

Great for Dates and Third Wheels

B r er a

Edited by Joe McPherson (food@groovekorea.com)

Story by Andy Hume / Photos by Dylan Goldby

n Korea, for reasons which defy easy explanation, Italian food is date food. It’s the place you take a girl to impress her with your sophistication, your ability to eat pasta without spilling it down the front of your shirt, or just the size of your wallet. So when reviewing this new Italian bistro, it seemed natural to ask a girl along to try it out with me. Surely the candlelight and romantic music would distract her from the molten mozzarella dripping down both my chins, right? My nefarious plan quickly backfired as two of her friends invited themselves along, drawn like moths to a flame by the promise of pasta and prosciutto. My loss was their gain because Brera is a nice spot. Located at exit 1 of Beotigogae station on line 6, just a couple of stops from Itaewon, it’s not the most promising location, but owner Giovanni Tamburrini, who brought us a popular but sadly short-lived homey Italian restaurant in Haebangchon, has made a warm and welcoming space with not a candle in sight. The interior is spacious and roomy with a mix of table and funky bar-style seating. An open-plan kitchen showcases itself from just about all parts of the restaurant. On the evening we showed up, my attempts to take command of the ordering process for the table were quietly subverted by Giovanni, who asked us to put ourselves in his hands. Good decision. An eggplant parmigiana was a tasty opening shot from the kitchen, rich and oozing with cheese. Golden fried mozzarella in carrozza, the Italian answer to French toast, had me surreptitiously checking Naver for local cardiologists. What a way to go it would have been. I found it a tiny bit dry, but we paired it with little spoonfuls of the sweet chili jam that had been brought with bread as an appetizer. It worked like a treat.

The two stars were the slow-cooked beef ragu with pappardelle, brisket simmered for hours with carrot and onion and generously spooned over handmade, slightly chewy flat noodles, and a frankly fantastic bowl of gnocchi with gorgonzola and finely chopped walnuts. The softness of the potato and flour gnocchi with the sharp cheese was almost enough to convert me to vegetarianism, a perfect lunch dish for a spring day. There were small quibbles. The lasagna was good but warmed unevenly, so that alternate mouthfuls were hot and cold. I found the olive tapenade that came out with the chili jam and bread to be on the bland side. These were small details in an encouraging overall picture. Prices at Brera are reasonable, with pasta dishes priced at 14,900 won, other mains at 12,000 won and house wine at 25,000 won a bottle. This isn’t a place to bring someone to show off your paycheck. It’s a neighborhood eatery for people who like to eat. The old restaurant was a firm foreigner favorite, and I predict that Brera soon will be as well. Now, all I need is a date.

MORE INFO: Brera 295 Dongho-ro 17-gil, Jung-gu It’s right behind you as you emerge from exit 1 at Beotigogae station 010-8070-1982

April 2015 www.groovekorea.com 39

Ambience Food Service Value Score

40 www.groovekorea.com April 2015

Edited by Joe McPherson (food@groovekorea.com)

FOOD & DRINK

Serbian, the Other Barbecue

Belgrade Story by Tom Birner / Photos by Dylan Goldby

hen we think of Serbia, we should think first about what larger country it once was part of. That way, we present something less readily loathsome than a bumbling American stereotype to Marina, the pretty, charming, and, as it turns out, engaged owner of Belgrade, a three-story Baltic affair standing grandly but cozily a short distance up a hill behind the Hamilton Hotel in Itaewon. After doing this we mentally reassemble World Cup brackets, revisit old Netflix queues and stop ourselves from soliciting her opinions on Vlade Divac as we realize this chain-smoking NBA defensive stalwart—a tree amongst men who are trees amongst the rest of us—would surely fail as lubricant for passable conversation. So it is. Despite my socially bankrupt state, my mood is breezy. I’m a simple enough man that I can close my eyes and attune the rumbling in my stomach to the rioting of my taste buds to whatever base part of my brain controls my mood. Whether or not I open them, I can all but see Pavlov’s Bell waiting on the table to be rung by my own hand. Sitting by a window peering out from the second floor at a string of small dim bars, I note that it’s Friday night. Spring is about here. Life outside my most immediate carnal concerns does not seem too bad either. The carnal concerns do not wait long for satiation. Serbian food shares elements of Greek, Turkish and Hungarian cuisine. It is at times hearty, as seen in the pork sac, an unthinkably tender mélange of slow-cooked, beer-marinated meat and potato and the establishment’s best-known dish. It is at times dainty, as seen in the soft, succulent pile of razor-thin beef tenderloin listed on the menu as meze, served cold and flawlessly dry-smoked alongside a few olives and tomatoes with a couple of chunks of feta. These two items stood out from a menu of smoked sausage, stuffed chicken, and olive and pepper-laden Mediterranean-style salads. Also worth trying is the rolled chicken, a juicy fillet wrapped in bacon and served with bread, which comes with most dishes or on its own with a tangy red pepper sauce and a sort of half-buttermilk, half-yogurt sauce similar to Turkish ayran or 3,000 won. Another standout was Miki’s Tart, a decadent crumbed dessert of caramel and dark chocolate so rich you’ll want to marry it. As for the décor, the food takes a passenger seat rather than a backseat to the restaurant’s lovely interior — a wood-paneled terrace hosting an unironic accordion player belting out Baltic folk songs every Wednesday evening, lacquered oak table tops, hat racks, and high-backed stools at the bar. It retains an old-world charm, a European deliberateness furthered by the bossa nova and Spanish guitar floating dreamily from corner speakers on each of the three floors. The service and ambience are top-notch, and despite some humdrum pljeskavica, which is a beef patty fit for a microwave (but which, I should mention, is pretty authentic from what I recall of my travels in eastern Europe), the food is not far behind.

Ambience Food Service Value Score

MORE INFO: Belgrade 118-4 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu Take exit 1 from Itaewon station, walk a minute or two to Tabom Brazilian Steakhouse, and turn right. It’s up the hill on the right, just past Shenanigans. 02-796-6933

Story and photos by Joe McPherson

Authentic fish tacos from a SoCal native

Little Baja r Galbi and sangrias nea Mokdong Immigration

Doramu

s down. Now for Immigration? Hand ho goes to Mokdong food around t cen de ve found any how many of you ha there? lly is differjust opened that actua A new galbi place has pork galbi, . L.A ular pork galbi and ent. Doramu serves reg oals. What arc ch er ov and are cooked e ad rin ma ng azi am ssels as banchan, both of which have an ves European-style mu ser it t tha is t ine iqu un world, a ssamjang tha makes this place salts from around the e rar , . All les ad od he no ur d yo ille n habanero ch a bigger tha a glass of fruity sangri d an , iar cav ng rri he cludes osphere. , playfully industrial atm ette, and served in an intimate left at the Paris Bagu rn Tu 8. it ex n, tio Sta o gy ok Om Right outside you can see it.

Edited by Joe McPherson (food@groovekorea.com)

MORE INFO: Little Baja 74-18 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu facebook.com/LittleBajaSeoul

FOOD & DRINK

exican food continues to evolve in Seoul. Now we are getting shops specializing in specific dishes and regional cuisines. Little Baja was recently opened by a Korean-American restaurateur from California. He felt the time was right to bring authentic Baja fish tacos to Korea. As of this writing, the tacos come in three forms: fish, shrimp, and little octopus. All three are fried in the same batter and are served in warm corn tortillas with cabbage and Little Baja’s special sauces. The octopus is worth it alone for the texture. Speaking of worth, they do come at an affordable price for Mexican in Seoul. Their horchata drink is also becoming something of a legend.

ramu MORE INFO: Do Yangcheon-gu 405-151 Mok-dong, sh spoken) 02-2061-1292 (Engli

With a name like that...

American Smell

MORE INFO: American Smell Hongdae: 402-12 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, 2F 070-8868-2297 Suyu Station: 224-5 Suyu 3-dong, Gangbuk-gu 02-908-5238

April 2015 www.groovekorea.com 41

hese guys don’t win the award for oddest name in Seoul. That accolade belongs to the makgeolli bar Doodoo. Yet the name and sign, a slice of Swiss cheese with an American flag sticking out of it, gets people’s attention. Simply, this is a decent place for a burger and a beer. Their burgers aren’t crazy-go-nuts good, but they’re good. Diners can choose to have a regular bun or toast, like a patty melt. The signature American Smell burger is a monstrous triple-decker Big-Mac-like creation on toast. Their PHat Fries come with a myriad of addictive sauces. Down this with a good selection of imported craft beers at decent prices.

Story and photos by Joe McPherson

Edited by Joe McPherson (food@groovekorea.com)

FOOD & DRINK

Restaurant Buzz

Finds from the Restaurant Buzz Facebook group

WTF??

Candied silkworm Larvae

orndog sighting! Real corndogs made

with cornmeal, not sweetened flour dough.

Hot Dog on a Stick. It’s empty a lot, so

it needs some foot traffic to stay in biz. It’s an outpost from an American shop opened in 1946. There are a few locations around Seoul. Go to hotdogonastick. co.kr for locations. For fine dining, stalwart L’Espoir du Hibou has been getting some new love as one of the best French restaurants in Seoul. Mingles is killing it with its gentle pairing of French and Korean — but don’t call it fusion!

MORE INFO: L’espoir dU Hibou 90-20 Cheongdam-dong, Gangnam-gu 02-517-6034 MORE INFO: Mingles 1-23 Cheongdam-dong, Gangnam-gu 02-515-7306 MORE INFO: Restaurant Buzz facebook.com/groups/restaurantseoul

Recipe

Story and photos by Joe McPherson

e see a lot of WTF items in Seoul. This is one of the items that actually works. Seriously. The inventor of the candied beondegi (silkworm larvae) is OK Burger in Yeouido. These are the same geniuses behind the O Kitchen empire. This is beondegi for people who don’t like beondegi, which is everyone. They’re sweet, dried and shatter like glass as they pulverize into powder in the mouth. Only at the end does one get a sense of actual beondegi flavor but only when one is looking for it. Makes great beer food.

Fuglies Why go to White Castle? Bring it to you.

42 www.groovekorea.com April 2015

hey aren’t the prettiest burgers, but these are the kinds of sliders that Harold and Kumar crave. Since we talk about “benchmarking” this month, here’s a copycat recipe for White Castle/Krystal sliders. It’s not really a recipe, so much as it is a technique. The burgers aren’t grilled. They, along with the buns, are steamed

Ingredients

500g ground beef 3 onions, grated Dinner rolls, sliced in half Pickle or jalapeno slices Yellow mustard Salt Pepper

upon a bed of ground and chopped onions. The buns I find work best are these cheap buttery dinner rolls found in most supermarkets. There are a lot of tools for grating vegetables in Korea that work well. I use a slicer that can also shred. Since they’re steamed, they also freeze and microwave well.

1. Season the ground beef with salt and pepper and mix. 2. Form the ground beef into meatballs. 3. Gently toast a small handful of the onions in a dry pan until they’re semi-dry. 4. Add the grated onions and spread around. 5. Smash the meatballs into small patties and place on top of the onion mush. 6. Here’s the trick. Put the top part of the bun on the patty. Put the bottom of the bun on top of the top bun. 7. Let the burgers steam for five minutes. You can cover them to make them cook faster. 8. Using a spatula, scoop each burger, onions and all, out of the pan. Put the bottom bun on the bottom and slide the spatula out. 9. Toss in a pickle or jalapeno and a squirt of mustard. They’re messy, oniony, and satisfy those late-night cravings.

Story by Robbie Nguyen / Photos by Dylan Goldby

he arrival of spring gives bartenders a chance to showcase cocktails that are more fruity and floral in nature. Strawberry is the star of this Southside Parlor original, with rhubarb and lime adding brightness and tartness to balance out the sweetness of the strawberry-infused tequila and thyme syrup. The egg white gives the cocktail a rich and creamy texture and a protein boost for those who want to do push-ups while they drink. Finally, the rosewater provides floral accentuation. Happy imbibing!

What’s Trending

Spring Cleaning, Dirty Dishing Story by Sue Ahn (KimchiHangover.com)

T ip

Fresh Herbs Story by Joe McPherson Photos by Dylan Goldby

resh herbs make your cooking so much more enjoyable. Korean supermarkets supply more fresh herbs each year. Yet the concept still hasn’t caught on strongly with the Korean public. The herbs slowly die in their plastic, sitting next to their egregiously high price tags. The best place to get fresh herbs is your local flower shop. They’re usually 2,000-5,000 won ($1.80 to $4.50) per pot. The most common herbs are rosemary and mint. Basil can occasionally be found. The Yangjae Flower Market has the hard-to-find herbs, and it’s worth the trip. Go to Yangjae Citizen’s Forest Station, exit 4. It’s past the aT Center.

April 2015 www.groovekorea.com 43

hat’s the latest on the food trend sweeping across Seoul? Hint: disposable, seasonal, and convenient. You’re bound to have seen these in your local convenience stores as you cruise down the refrigerated aisle. With the weather warming up, lovers and friends flock to grab one on the go for a casual rendezvous or a picnic on the river. By now you’ve probably already guessed “dosirak,” or Korean bento boxes, where the mains, sides, and rice man their positions in a plastic container. Nowadays, franchises have upped the ante by incorporating gourmet seasoned “namul,” or wild herbs and sprouts, into the mix. Long gone are the days of monotonous platters. Long live heterogeneity! Happy eating, ya’ll.

Edited by Joe McPherson (food@groovekorea.com)

2oz strawberry-infused tequila .75oz thyme syrup .5oz rhubarb liqueur .5oz lime .75oz egg white 2 drops rosewater

FOOD & DRINK

Strawberry Fields Forever

Story by Eric Davis / Photos by Hadas Hinkis and Christoph Neumann for Mary Ocher

ENTERTAINMENT Edited by Stewart McFeat (stewart@groovekorea.com)

Berlin’s Punk Diva

debuts in Seoul

44 www.groovekorea.com April 2015

April 18th marks the remarkable Mary Ocher’s first gig in Korea.

born wanderer who left Russia for Israel and finally found her niche in Berlin, Mary Ocher’s been a fixture of the German underground for nearly 10 years. Ocher’s performance-art punk doesn’t feel out of place there, but this April marks her debut in Korea. She is what you might call a “punk diva”. A born performer, she takes the stage alone and keeps audiences rapt. Her music’s not for everyone though. That’s where the punk part comes in: she’s confrontational and refuses to play by pop music standards. The daughter of a puppeteer and an engineer, her music is playful, yet executed with economic precision. Her latest album “Eden” was produced by garage-rock visionary King Khan and contains fourteen songs that provoke the listener through their sparseness and gall. A true eccentric, she writes music that is impossible to classify and refuses to be played in the background. Ocher recently took the time to chat with Groove about her music and upcoming shows in Seoul.

“she writes music that is impossible to classify and refuses to be played in the background.”

Thursday

How did you start writing songs? Was playing music common in your family? Perhaps it started with recording songs onto cassette tapes at 11, then switched to playing keys and guitar at 14. I’d been taught the recorder for years with a private tutor who took the instrument very seriously and offered a very bright future playing all sorts of renaissance conventions and baroque music competitions in Switzerland. But I hated that damn thing, its sound, the stiffness of the music, and even more the conservatism of everyone involved and the competitiveness as a principle. So I quit and told them I’ll be doing pop or rock’n’roll - or however you want to call it - when I grow up. The tutor called whatever-it-is ‘’garbage’’ and hasn’t spoken to me since.

Your work gives off a very clever, wry sense of humor. Who are some other artists have inspired this approach to art? Why thank you! I tend to think of myself as awfully goofy, but never consciously funny. One of my absolutely favorite bands is Sparks. They’re quite goofily funny, sometimes even perhaps intentionally. I’ve recently discovered PG Woodhouse, but he has certainly not inspired any of the songs to date, though he might have inspired certain Brits I used to listen to a lot as a teenager. What can people expect when they come to see one of your shows? A very intense, confusingly bare experience.

A Most Violent Year Movie Theatres – General release

MOVIES

Furious 7 Movie Theatres-General Release Good Friday Wednesday

APRIL

MUSIC

SUNday

APRIL

19,25,26

Paul McCartney: Hyundai Card Super Concert 20 8pm / 55,000-300,000 won Jamsil Sports Complex (Main Stadium). Sports Complex Station (line 5)

April 2015 www.groovekorea.com 45

MAY

Wednesday

Mary Orcher Nice Legs Hidden Plastic Mountains 9pm / 10,000 won Strangefruit, Hongdae (Line 2) Toastmasters Division D Contest 2pm-5pm / free? POSCO Building, 440, Teheran-Ro, Gangnam-Gu, Seoul (Line 2)

Seoul Players: Top Girls 3pm (English with Korean Subtitles) 20,000 won Arts Tree Theater, Guro (Line 5) 501 Guro-gu, Guro 5-dong, (Basement) SATURDAY

8-21

MUSIC

Theatre

MORE INFO See Mary Ocher at Strange Fruit (Hongdae) on April 18. www.maryocher.com/ www.facebook.com/MaryOcherMusic For directions to Strange Fruit: www.facebook.com/strangefruit.seoul

APRIL

Hanjin Shipping: The Box Project 2014 Leondro Erlich Until Sept 13th 2015 Tues-Sun 10am-6pm 4,000 won (Weds & Sat 6-9pm is free) National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art 30 Samcheong-ro, Sogyeok-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul 110-200

The Script 8pm / 77,000-99,000 won Olympic Hall at Olympic Park 424, Olympic-ro , Songpa-gu , Seoul

APRIL

Wednesday

ART

MUSIC

SATURDAY

Illusion and Fantasy National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art Until May 6th 2015 / 4,000 won 30 Samcheong-ro, Sogyeok-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul 110-200

Martyn Thompson: After Death, A Tiger’s Skin Remains: A Man Leaves Only His Name 11am-6pm Wednesday- Monday (Closed Tuesday) Free Gallery i, Insadong www.egalleryi.co.kr www.m-art-yn.com

APRIL

ART

THURsday

FRIday

Edited by Stewart McFeat (stewart@groovekorea.com)

“I love new places, though wit h time a familiar feeling develops to the point that going back to older, familiar places is just as foreign.”

MOVIES

ENTERTAINMENT

Your bio says that you were born in Russia, raised in Tel-Aviv, and moved to Berlin at the age of 20. What effect have those places had on your art? You learn the faults of each place with time - start noticing this or that, but the first few years in Berlin were absolutely idyllic. It was paradise for outcasts, everything I’d never even dreamed a place can be. Now it’s just comfortable and familiar. Being an immigrant and a foreigner my entire life, I’m completely used to the austerity of not belonging. There’s a certain soothing calm in it which makes you fit everywhere you are. And I love new places, though with time a familiar feeling develops to the point that going back to older, familiar places is just as foreign. Places change so quickly and so much that we often forget to notice when staying in one place for too long. And of course the subjects of foreignness and ideological objection is present in almost every song. It’s almost impossible to separate the two.

APRIL

Story by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring ENTERTAINMENT Edited by Stewart McFeat (stewart@groovekorea.com)

Sir Paul plays his debut show in the Korean capital

Paul McCartney:

Hyundai Card Super Concert 20

ir Paul McCartney finally brings his “Out There” tour to Seoul, playing at the Jamsil Sports Complex (Main Stadium) venue on May 2nd in the Hyundai Card Super Concert

20. Dubbed The McCartney Live Experience, the three hour show will showcase 50 years of music, revisiting songs spanning his solo, Wings, and Beatle backlogs. The “Out There” tour will also revel in his latest release ‘NEW’, the most recent album to reach global success with the hit single title track. This is Paul McCartney’s first trip to South Korea, playing as a solo artist in Seoul. The show, which was unexpectedly postponed 12 months ago due to illness, made the musician adamant to reschedule the date for the end of the current tour. He says “I was really looking forward to visiting last year and (was) really touched by all the messages I received from my fans

when I was forced to move the show”. The “Out There” tour promises to be the king of concerts, having completed an incredible 82 shows on the road already. The performance sees lasers, video backdrops and fireworks used in addition to a platform that will hover McCartney over the audience to create anything but an ordinary concert experience. Appealing to multi-generational audiences, the 18-month tour has completed 13 legs and is ready to amaze Korea. However, the question on everyone’s lips has to be whether a certain collaboration with Kanye West will feature on those high tech screens. The “Only One” track which saw West fans dubbing McCartney as an talented newcomer may be best left in the archives. Seoul shall have to wait and see until the beginning of May. So the final words from McCartney? “It’s going to be an incredible night and I look forward to rocking with you all soon”. As do we Sir Paul, as do we.

I was really looking forward to visiting last year and (was) really touched by all the messages I received from my fans when I was forced to move the show

46 www.groovekorea.com April 2015

MORE INFO Paul McCartney brings his “Out There” tour to the Hyundai Card Super Concert 20, performing at Seoul’s Jamsil Sports Complex (Main Stadium) on Saturday May 2nd, 2015. Tickets are priced between 55,000-300,000 won. 10 (Olympic Road 29) Jamsil 1(il)-dong Songpa-gu Seoul Bus: 2225, 3217, 3218, 3411, 3412, 3414, 3415, 3417, 3422, 360, 361, 362, 363 Subway: Sports Complex station (Line 2, Exit 7) Tickets are available from YES24 (www.ticket.yes24.com/English), Interpark (www.ticket.interpark.com/global), and livenation.kr. 02-2240-8809

C o ncert Previews

ENTERTAINMENT

Dubl in Tr io Br ing Their Sound To Seoul

he Script arrive in Korea with their third live tour, playing Seoul’s Olympic Hall at the Olympic Park on April 15th 2015. Danny O’Donoghue, Mark Sheehan and Glen Power, who all hail from Ireland, bring their fourth album “No Sound Without Silence” to the road in their second trip to the peninsula. The album was released at the end of last year and has already produced three hit singles in “Superheroes”, “No Good In Goodbye” and “Man On A Wire”. The Script have been on the music scene since 2001, scoring four number one hit singles in the UK and Ireland and their highest charting at number 12 with “Breakeven” in the US. The band’s music is also recognised from hit TV shows “90210” and “Ghost Whisperer” and “The Man Who Can’t Be Moved” was even chosen as the Victoria’s Secret Annual Parade track in 2009.

Edited by Stewart McFeat (stewart@groovekorea.com)

The Script: No Sound Without Silence Tour Story by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring

No strangers to the live circuit, the current world tour has seen the trio play in over 20 countries. The 90 minute show brings a blend of all four albums with hit singles from previous LPs “The Script” and “Science And Faith” expected alongside the Will.I.Am “#3” collaboration “Hall Of Fame”. Frontman Danny is the most recognised member of the band. Appearing as a judge on The Voice UK, the lead vocalist and pianist left after two successful seasons to concentrate on the band. Since then, Danny has caused quite a stir with one of the band’s riskiest videos to date, when he successfully attempted to try his hand at tightrope walking for their latest hit single “Man On A Wire”. Who knows what other tricks the band may have up their sleeves for their Seoul offering.

424 , Olympic-ro , Songpa-gu , Seoul Subway: Olympic Park station (Line 5, Exit 3) Tickets are available from YES24 (www.ticket.yes24. com/English), Interpark (www.ticket.interpark.com/ global), and livenation.kr. 02-410-1114

April 2015 www.groovekorea.com 47

MORE INFO The Script bring their “No Sound Without Silence” tour to Seoul’s Olympic Hall at the Olympic Park on Wednesday April 15th, 2015. Tickets are priced between 77,000-99,000 won.

ENTERTAINMENT Edited by Stewart McFeat (stewart@groovekorea.com)

Story by Stewart McFeat / Photos by Robert Evans

Ferocity and Fragility from 9-5

Gender roles and boundaries are tested in Seoul Players thrilling new theatrical season titled ‘Glass Jaws / Glass Ceilings’ This April and May you will get a chance to see the Players first double-hander

‘Glass Jaws’

Glengarry Glen Ross by David Mamet and directed by Barri Tsavaris is set in a realty agency where employees are threatened with the sack if they can’t quickly raise sales. It explores what it is to be a man in the workplace and how far these characters will go to keep that identity.

‘Glass Ceilings’

In Top Girls by Caryl Churchill and directed by Siobhan Murphy we explore the fantasies and realities of protagonist Marlene as she confronts the limits faced by women in a society where the spectre of manhood dictates the rules.

48 www.groovekorea.com April 2015

I had the opportunity to sit in at the rehearsals and quiz the directors about their productions.

Glengarry Glen Ross Groove Korea ‘GK’) We’re currently sitting in a studio at Sungshin Woman’s University and in approximately 30 minutes I’m going to get a chance to see a rehearsal of David Mamet’s play Glengarry Glen Ross. You have been working with Seoul players for a while now... BT) I’ve been involved with the organization for four years and I’ve been the artistic director for a little over three.

GK) Which clearly ties in with Top Girls… BT) I came here from New York and got involved with Seoul Players. I started doing The Vagina Monologues again here and then I got the go-ahead to plan an entire season and to do two mainstage productions at once. This is the first time we’re ever doing something like that. I realized that this is my chance to go back to my roots and think about gender issues and I can do two shows. I just started thinking about what works well together and also you think about your dream shows; God what would I love to do?

GK) It’s got this primal feel. A lot of his work feels as though it’s about warring tribes. BT) That actually gave me an idea. I should have them do an exercise where they can’t use any words. They have to be like cavemen but in character. Maybe we’ll do that today! Mamet’s homebase is Chicago and its pretty much where most of his plays and screenplays take place so there is this urban element to everything that he writes, there’s a grittiness to it. Chicago in the early 1980s had some of the highest rates of crime and unemployment in the country.

GK) David Mamet: Pulitzer Prize winning playwright, filmscript writer and director. Mamet’s work always seems to be about masculinity-sometimes brutal masculinity. What was your experience directing it? BT) My first thing about David Mamet? I think about realism and dialogue - the way we actually speak as human beings. So that’s the first thing I think about but yes, also about this brutal masculinity. I have been lucky enough to perform Mamet. This was a couple of years back. I was in Sexual Perversity in Chicago and I played this horrible, horrible bitch of a character. Yeah, he doesn’t always paint women in the most attractive light or even show them at all. Like in Glengarry there

GK) Yet I know he’s also a keen hunter and no stranger to the wilderness… BT) What do humans do when they are stretched to that limit in a desperate situation, in a situation that you can only experience in the “concrete jungle”? He’s exploring the limits of what people do. I’m focusing so much on the negative… there is a humor in it and there are moments and glimpses of tenderness in these people. You can see the softness deep down inside where it once existed maybe twenty or thirty years before they came to the city and started doing this work. So I think he is not just trying to show how hard we are but he’s trying to show the places where we are still soft.

A lot of his work feels as though it’s about warring tribes. GK) This is a very interesting point. I remember a friend of mine who was working in a business here. The usual ways, the usual hierarchies were being dismantled so that almost everyone was made a manager. They were on an equal level. This really threw the older generation who were used to their status. Now they didn’t know what to do. They didn’t know where they were. BT) Yes, and that’s definitely happening in this play - especially when you have people who identify so strongly with their job. GK) It’s their identity. BT) Yes.

Edited by Stewart McFeat (stewart@groovekorea.com)

GK) All humans are misanthropes by nature? For me, from the various pieces I’ve seen, Oleanna certainly comes across as misogynistic. I would have said that of all the plays that he’s made, Glengarry Glen Ross is the least misogynistic because, as you said, there are no women in the play. BT) Because of lack of inclusion? It’s interesting when I’m doing character work with the actors there are a lot of questions: Am I married? Is there a woman in my life? Do I have kids? Do I go home to somebody? These are things we had to make up on our own because Mamet doesn’t give it to us in Glengarry. Domestic life? Women? It’s not even part of it. But I think it’s not because he’s making any statement on women. This is just a play about those characters, about their lives. It tells us about the way they push each other around.

GK) Fragility? So is there a certain nostalgia? A few of the men in the office are the older generation and are on their way out. There’s actually full speeches in the play where they talk about remembering that time when we did this deal, that was the way it was done and it was so good then. So yes, there is some nostalgia.

ENTERTAINMENT

GK) So what has lead you to this point and this current project? BT) I would say everything that I’ve done artistically since my university days has lead me to this point. I studied theatre and women’s studies at Boston University a very long time ago and started a women’s theatre group that’s actually still producing theatre at the school 15 years later. So I’m pretty proud of my legacy there. I had directed one of the first productions of The Vagina Monologues by Eve Ensler on a university campus and I was actually a part of an HBO special around the same time that followed three university directors and culminated in a talkback session with the author. So that’s sort of where I started with my theatre work.

are no women. But then when you think about it, does he paint men in an attractive light? And the answer is no. He doesn’t care. It’s not like he’s choosing to make women look like bitches or something. No, it’s just that this is the way he sees the human condition.

GK) Are there any other ways this play from the US applies to the Korean work ethic? BT) In Korea, they are still obligated to do so much of these drinking meetings. A lot of the scenes in Glengarry Glen Ross take place in bars and restaurants. There’s a lot of drinking going on. There are glass ceilings for women here. There is unequal pay. There are different expectations that are based on gender here that are unfair to both sexes. It’s not just things that are unfair to women. It’s very unfair all around and definitely gender-based. GK) The last thing I want to ask you is other than giving your audience thrilling entertainment experience, is there anything else you would like them to take away from watching Glengarry Glen Ross? BT) The reason why I do theatre and the thrill of the live performance is in getting to see a picture of the human condition and to be with all these people in the same room and you are sharing that together at the same time. April 2015 www.groovekorea.com 49

Edited by Stewart McFeat (stewart@groovekorea.com)

ENTERTAINMENT

Top Girls I first saw Top Girls ten years ago at The Citizen’s Theatre in Glasgow as a result of studying it in a feminist theory course. When I got to see the rehearsal of the famous dinner scene with the Seoul Players’ team I was thrown again into the squall of emotions: saddening, infuriating and often hilarious. Before me Director Siobhan Murphy and myself sit down in a café afterward and, to my surprise, she is the one who initiates the conversation. M) Top Girls is about the sacrifices women have made throughout time. The dinner scene at the start, with women from the east and the west, is showing the same issue over and over again throughout the centuries. So many of them struggled to have a family and be able to do what they want in their lives… so it’s trying to find a balance between what they want and family pressures. GK) International Women’s day was last week and gender equality is a problem which of course still exists. Do you think the play taps into something which is happening right now? In Korea? M) I think there are a lot of themes in the play that definitely ring true for women here. There’s a lot of statistics about how if a woman’s single or newly married there’s less likelihood she’ll be hired because she might need to leave. Employers don’t want to give maternity leave, so they are more likely to hire a man. And I think it’s true in Korea where having a baby out of wedlock is such an issue and causes so much strife in the lives of the woman and the baby. You have things like baby boxes coming up because a woman got pregnant out of wedlock. I think that theme is very prevalent within the play and the story of the main character Marlene. Her own family has their own opinion about what Marlene did wrong in her life. They have their own very strong beliefs of what she should have done with her life

50 www.groovekorea.com April 2015

GK) This brings me to the question I was going to ask you initially. ‘Glass Ceilings’. How does this specifically fit with Top Girls? M) There are a few scenes in the office where Marlene works and you can see that the women are all very upset that a woman

has taken rank over the man. You even have his wife coming in because he was also considered for promotion. There is this expectation that the men have to be at the top of the workplace. Usually women are expected to get married, have kids, be a mom. I mean that’s a generalization but that certainly seems very prevalent from the discussions I’ve had with adult Korean students. That’s usually the way a life plan goes. GK) I’m going to play devil’s advocate here a little bit…I mean there will be people who are brought to this play who are male and some of them may be somewhat reluctant at the prospect of going to see a ‘feminist’ play. M) I’ve encountered this too when I’ve been talking to guys. I’ve just been explaining the play to other men and I feel this need to make a disclaimer: ‘Oh, it’s not like it’s The Vagina Monologues.’ Why should I have to? Women’s stories can be interesting too you know. It’s important to remember that all the women in this play have very interesting and unique stories. It’s only women in the cast but in nearly every scene they’re talking about men. And then you have the Bechdel test in Hollywood. Does the movie have scenes where there are two women alone and they are discussing things that are not men or romance-related? If there are and they are talking about other things like their careers, then it can pass this Bechdel test. This play wouldn’t even pass this test because, as I said, in nearly every scene men come into the discussion. Just because there are no men on the stage doesn’t mean it’s not about men; they are just invisible. The men have dramatically shaped the lives of all the women. The women talk about men and they talk about their love lives. GK) At the Oscars this year people were complaining that it’s just a very white male business.

M) Yes, it is and I don’t think it needs to be that way. I think there are a lot of interesting and funny stories about women that men enjoy. There’s no reason why a man can’t enjoy the stories of any of the characters in the play or they can’t relate to them. I think there’s just this expectation that for something to be interesting it has to have a man in it and I don’t think that’s true.

They have their own very strong beliefs of what she should have done with her life The extent to which both plays are gender exclusive or critical of gender remains open to debate; a discussion best had after viewing. Whether we are local or expat we have a responsibility to consider exclusivity in order to engage with our current environment: Korea in 2015. Seoul Players new season may divide audiences in discussion of the issues but what is transparent is that each performance by turns profound and exciting, will throw that sucker punch of revelation –in the same room, at the same time.

MORE INFO Top Girls by Caryl Churchill Saturdays April 18 and 25 at 2:00 and 7:00pm Sundays April 19 and 26 at 3:00pm Glengarry Glenross by David Mamet Saturdays, May 9 and 16 at 2:00 and 7:00pm Sundays, May 10 and 17 at 3:00pm Arts Tree Theater, Guro, Seoul 501 Guro-gu, Guro 5-dong, Basement Level Tickets 20,000won seoulplayers@gmail.com www.seoulplayers.org

Be yo Th e Bl ur

National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art, Seoul

Art Exhibitions in Focus : Story by Doug Holden

ENTERTAINMENT

he following are brief explorations into the performative roles of art, galleries, museums, people, and society. Insert yourself here. Museums are places of cultural exchange, marketplaces of ideas, social spaces of interaction, participation, and reflection.

Garden

Edited by Stewart McFeat (stewart@groovekorea.com)

From Oct. 21, 2014 to April 26, 2015

Illusion and Fantasy From Feb. 10 to May 6

Hanjin Shipping The Box Project 2014: Leandro Erlich From Nov. 4, 2014 to Sep. 13, 2015 Leandro Erlich

The MMCA continues to grow into its new skin with a variety of programming and a reliable format of a Korean/Asian themed popular show, a quirky / alternative show, and a showcased artist, as well as film screenings, lectures, performances, talks, etc.

Garden takes its direction mostly from old Chinese philosophical treatises. Showcasing works from the museum’s collection – there are paintings with Oriental brushwork, but the show is never cliched, there were a few surprises for a public invited with a lovely gesture from such a culturally responsible institution: “Do you have a garden that is both useful and beautiful, that manifests and reflects your life, that facilitates you to ease your breath away from your frantic and exhausting daily routines, that lets you to discover your inner sublimity , that both makes you be brave and calm enough to confront the existential questions heard from your mind, and that gives you the answers to those questions so that you can lift your soul and mind and take a stroll in freedom with no burden on your shoulders? Garden is MMCA Seoul’s Answer to this question.”

Hyungkoo Kang ‘Gogh’

obsessive, aggressively pulled apart, and playful. Fake is the new real, artifice becomes reality. It is engaging to see young girls and boys tugging on parents’ arms, couples looking, and friends taking photos beside the art. Everyone hunting around snapping shots with their phones like wayward botanists collecting butterflies.

Kim Bohie ‘The Days’

MORE INFO: National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art, Seoul 30 Samcheong-ro, Sogyeok-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul 110-200 02-3701-9500 mmca.go.kr/eng/ Tuesday, Thursday, Friday, Sunday: 10:00~18:00. Closed Mondays Wednesday, Saturday: 10:00~21:00 (after 18:00 free) 4,000 Won

April 2015 www.groovekorea.com 51

Port of Reflections is by Leandro Erlich, The Seoul Box current resident. Immediately immersive and kind, guests remove their shoes and walk on the soft, black, absorbing carpet (wall-to-wall, floor-to-ceiling). Ah, but there is no ceiling, because we are in essence at the bottom of the sea. Looking up at comic book boats, lamp posts, and railings rippling down to the depths we quietly inhabit. It’s hard to contain the excitement of finding yourself within the pages of a Dr. Seuss book. Go top side, and look back down into the calming waters everyone is believing in. This piece is such a generous gift to a public often uncertain in its beliefs about the power of art.

Illusion and Fantasy. Things were out of scale,

Previews by Dean Crawford

Edited by Stewart McFeat (stewart@groovekorea.com)

ENTERTAINMENT

AT THE BOX OFFI CE T HE B IG S CRE E N

A Most Violent Year

52 www.groovekorea.com April 2015

Furious 7 If you’re a regular reader of this column, I’m guessing I’ve got a good idea what you think of me. You probably think that I’m some kind of turtle-neck wearing, red wine drinking film snob who only watches arthouse films that consist of a blue screen for 80 minutes - but you’d be wrong. I mean, sure, I have seen Derek Jarman’s Blue, and like, oh my god, it was so deep…or whatever, but I can’t deny that occasionally I like to switch off my brain and watch beautiful people drive fast cars. So you can imagine how excited I am with the news that the latest instalment of the Fast and Furious franchise is almost here! The oddly titled Furious 7, sees Dom (Vin Diesel) and his crew back in the U.S after defeating Owen Shaw. However, their enjoyment is short-lived as Shaw’s brother, Deckard (Jason Statham) is looking for vengeance and is hunting them down one by one. Statham is the only new major addition to the cast, but what an addition he is! Tell me you’re not excited to see him and Dwayne “The Rock” Johnson kick seven bells out of each other! However, an “aggressively accelerated timetable” meant that Justin Lin vacated the director’s chair and was replaced by Insidious director James Wan. Despite my excitement, the release of Furious 7 will definitely be a bittersweet moment; the untimely passing of Paul Walker meant that his scenes had to be completed using a mixture of VFX and his brothers acting as body doubles. Word on the street is that rather than kill his character, which, let’s face it, would be in incredibly poor taste, O’Connor will “retire,” which, in my opinion, is a much more fitting ending. I know these films are popcorn fodder, but for many people, there is bound to be some emotional attachment involved in watching Paul Walker’s last movie. The least they can do is give his character a happy ending of sorts. So if this is true, I think it’s a fitting conclusion to the film. Furious 7 is released April 2nd...which should give me more than enough time to get my turtle neck out of the dry cleaners.

2014 was undoubtedly a great year for us movie fans. The quality of independent films such as Boyhood and Birdman coupled with Hollywood blockbusters like Dawn of the Planet of the Apes and Edge of Tomorrow made it feel like we were spoilt for choice each and every week. However, this meant that certain movies that might have gained traction in other years simply fell by the wayside. One of those films was A Most Violent Year, which was nominated for countless awards and even got a nomination at the Golden Globes, but just fell short when it came to the Oscars. Which, let’s face it, is the one that really counts when you’re looking for promotion on your movie posters. Starring Oscar Isaac and Jessica Chastain, the film is set in 1981 New York, where immigrant businessman Abel Morales (Isaac) tries to keep his business and his family safe and legitimate during one of the most violent years in the city’s history. While the premise has potential, the film doesn’t strike me as a “must-see” movie and I can see why it might have been overlooked by the masses. One thing that does make me want to see it, however, is the small but impressive body of work from the film’s director, J.C. Chandor. Margin Call was a tense look at the financial crisis and All is Lost starring Robert Redford as a sailor stranded at sea was a real surprise. Containing practically no dialogue, Chandor guided Redford to one of his best performances in years as well as delivering a gorgeous yet gripping look at one man’s battle with the elements. Another reason to see the film is the versatile Oscar Isaac. I thought he was great in Inside Llewyn Davis and he put in another star turn in Alex Garland’s debut Ex Machina. We’ll see him next in what is quite possibly the most anticipated film ever, Star Wars: Episode VII - The Force Awakens. With a quality cast and a talented director, the film is currently sitting on a 90% certified fresh rating over at Rotten Tomatoes which means all signs are pointing towards another critical success for Chandor and Isaac. So if A Most Violent Year did escape your attention, like it did mine, luckily for us, it gets a Korean release on April 2nd

Previews by Dean Crawford

Korea DVD Corner T he S ma l l S creen

ENTERTAINMENT

열한시

2009 로스트 메모리즈

In 1909, a failed assassination attempt on Ito Hirobumi sets off an alternate timeline that includes Japan and the US fighting side by side during WWII, Japan taking over Manchuria and the atomic bomb being dropped on Berlin. But most shockingly, a history that involves Japan solely hosting the 2002 World Cup! Fast forward to Seoul in 2009 (which looks remarkably like Osaka in 2002), Japan is running the capital which means Koreans are second class citizens. However, a group of terrorists are looking to take back their land after learning about a mysterious artifact called “The Lunar Soul”, which can send one of them back in time to change these alternate set of events. It’s an interesting premise, reminiscent of the literary classic The Man in the High Castle by Philip K. Dick and most recently in Stephen Fry’s Making History, but I’ve never seen it done from a Korean point of view; so for that reason, 2009 is something of a unique film. The premise feels like an interesting way for the filmmakers to explore Koreas troubled history, reminding the nation of their never say die “fighting!” spirit. With lots of guns, dramatic operatic music and an over reliance on slow motion, the film at times resembles an old John Woo film. The similarities with Woo don’t end there, as Jong Dong-gun’s Sakamoto strongly resembles Chow Yun Fat in Hard Boiled and the two leads take part in a The Killer-esque Mexican stand off. All that was missing were the white doves! This isn’t necessarily a bad thing, it’s just felt like I wasn’t watching anything original; more a mish-mash of ideas and visuals from other sources. Like most time travel films, there are several questions that remain unanswered. Primarily, if Sakamoto were to go back in time, why then would he still exist in the future? In changing the past, wouldn’t that suggest that the initial time loop would never have existed? However, the plot holes aren’t so huge that they stop you enjoying the film, unlike Interstellar for example, because with the film seemingly focusing on action and national pride over science, you can simply sit back and enjoy 2009 for what it is – an action packed, if not slightly dated and unoriginal, science fiction ride.

April 2015 www.groovekorea.com 53

With the enforcement of a screen quota system, South Korea is somewhat of a powerhouse when it comes to film production. Revenge dramas and generic comedies get churned out like popcorn butter, but one genre that seems to be overlooked in Korean cinema is science-fiction, and in particular, time travel movies. Sure, there are several K-Dramas that use time travel as a narrative device, but it’s something of a rarity in film, so I was excited to see Kim Hyun-seok’s A.M. 11:00, starring Jeong Jae-yong and Kim Ok-bin. Backed by the Russian government and located in a secluded bunker under the sea, Woo-seok (Jeong Jae-yong) has successfully built a time machine and has travelled 24 hours into the future. However, all he saw was the death of his team and the destruction of the project. Back in the present, he now has 24 hours to work out what happened and stop those events from ever taking place. A.M. 11:00 gives you pretty much what you would expect from a situation where people find out information about their bleak futures; it focuses on the question “Are we in control of our destiny or are our fates predetermined?” If you see the events that lead to your death, can you make different choices to avoid that outcome? Or is knowing you are going to die and your attempt to avoid that outcome ultimately what leads to your death? Several characters deal with this exact problem, but A.M. 11:00 doesn’t go too far down that rabbit hole unlike Primer or Predestination, for example, which leave you needing a timeline chart to try and decipher what you just saw. Instead, the first time jump provides us with one possible outcome, the death of all involved with the project, and we watch the following 24 hours play out as they try to avoid their fate. It never really gets bogged down with theoretical physics or paradoxes, which may be a welcome relief to some. While the directing is competent and the premise interesting, the film ultimately feels like a well-made TV drama, which surprised me as I’m usually a fan of Jeong Jae-yong’s work. Simply put, A.M. 11:00 will be an intriguing prospect to fans of science fiction, but might leave others wanting.

2009: Lost Memories

Edited by Stewart McFeat (stewart@groovekorea.com)

A.M. 11:00

No Easy Exploring Vietnam’s Central Highlands

on the Back of a Motorcycle Story and photos by Christine Pickering

y motorcycle driver, Ha Van Binh, exits the sparsely populated highway, heading away from Nha Trang — one of Vietnam’s largest coastal cities. As we move from smooth asphalt to red dirt, dust flies up, blocking my view and clogging my throat. I’m new to motorcycles, and although Binh has been driving for decades and proudly reports no fatalities, I grip the back of the vehicle until my hands go numb. We continue to bounce along, approaching a narrow mountain pass at 50 kilometers an hour. The bike spits out dirt and chunks of rock as we cut new tracks into the road. I look back to see a red dust storm behind us.

sy Ride T R A V E L Edited by Eileen Cahill (eileen@groovekorea.com)

A view of the highlands, seen from the top of the road

April 2015 www.groovekorea.com 55

I decided to spend a month exploring Vietnam with a friend. We started our trip in the south, in Ho Chi Minh City. Several Saigon beers, bowls of pho, and lost laundry items later, we found ourselves in Nha Trang. Upon hearing of our interest in exploring the central highlands, the receptionist at our hostel set us up with Easy Riders, a motorcycle tour operator based in Nha Trang. The owner, Nguyen Duc Hai, met us in the hostel lobby. Tall and tanned from years spent outdoors, Hai came armed with printed copies of glowing testimonials and a photo book of the most scenic views in the area. Within 30 minutes, the manâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s confidence and unwavering passion for the Vietnamese countryside had us convinced. We were going to tie our backpacks onto his motorcycle and ride hundreds of kilometers across the central highlands with him and a colleague we had never met. Who could turn it down?

T R A V E L Edited by Eileen Cahill (eileen@groovekorea.com)

It’s our first day of riding. We stop for a roadside lunch of fried noodles and fresh veggies, and Hai tells us how the idea of becoming a motorcycle tour operator came to him. Working as a cyclo (three-wheeled cycle rickshaw) driver in Nha Trang for over a decade, Hai happened to meet an American couple in 1999 who were looking to travel to the central highlands. The narrow, unpaved roads would be problematic for a driver unfamiliar with the terrain, so Hai offered to take them up by motorcycle. After a three-day tour of the highlands, the Americans left, affirming that they would recommend him to their friends. Their only suggestion to him was to become more knowledgeable about the area. With this advice in mind, Hai proceeded to explore the nooks and crannies of the highlands, befriending locals and familiarizing himself with the vast area he would soon know better than his hometown. Easy Riders was the result of his solo wanderings. We finish our meal, which costs the equivalent of $3 (3,300 won or 65,000 Vietnamese dong), and get back on the road. After hours of flying down the highway, passing transport trucks and motorcycles laden with terrified goats and traumatized chickens, we make our first non-food-related stop at the village where the Rac Lay minority ethnic group lives. Our motorcycles pull up to a footbridge, although “bridge” is an overstatement. A narrow, rickety pathway made of loosely woven twigs held up by a fraying rope is what lies between us and death. My friend, a much braver adventurer than I, crosses first. Sidling along behind her, I hear the sound of twigs snapping under my feet and try not to look at the sharp rocks awaiting us in the muddy river below. We make it across and head into the village. Children run toward us and stop dead in their tracks, eyes full of fear and wonder at the sight of two large, pale women blocking their way. Hai gives us a quick tour of the village and introduces us to some of his friends. Two children follow, keeping a safe distance behind. As we push our way into a grove of cashew nut trees, Hai recounts his pre-Easy Rider days to us. He was born in Nha Trang in 1965, a decade before the fall of Saigon marked the end of the Vietnam War. Although the

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This suspension bridge, leading to the village where the Rac Lay ethnic minority group lives, is not the bridge described in the story. “That one would have been way too scary to take a photo of!” writes author Christine Pickering.

country was not economically stable at the time — it depended heavily on trade and aid from the United States — Hai remembers his childhood being relatively happy. He had eight brothers and sisters and received a good education, despite the backdrop of war that punctuated his early life. After the war, Hai says, the administration was intent on punishing citizens who had worked for the former government of South Vietnam: Public servants, soldiers, and suspected sympathizers were all targets. Hundreds of “re-education camps” were opened throughout the country — the harshest ones, known as level 4 and 5 camps, were reserved for educated people. Judges, writers and teachers were considered especially dangerous. According to some estimates, about 1 million Vietnamese ended up in the re-education camps. Roughly 165,000 succumbed to torture, starvation or disease. In 1983, Hai tells us, he became one of those million political prisoners. He was first sent to a prison and then moved to two different re-education camps, without a trial and without ever knowing why he was arrested. He survived five years in deplorable conditions. “During (my) time in the camp,” he says, “I (worked) very hard, but (the) food was not enough. (When we were sick, there) was not good medicine (or time off), so … many prisoners (died) in the camp. Because (there was) not enough food … we (had) to eat insect(s) and (other dirty things). We were not (strong enough, so) we got sick (easily) and malaria killed many of us.”

Hundreds of “reeducation camps” were opened throughout the country — the harshest ones, known as level 4 and 5 camps, were reserved for educated people. Judges, writers and teachers were considered especially dangerous.

Golden bodhisattva sculptures at the Linh Phuoc Pagoda, Dalat

T R A V E L TRA Edited by Eileen Cahill (eileen@groovekorea.com)

Mosaic sculptures outside of the Linh Phuoc Pagoda in Dalat

In 1983, Hai tells us, he became one of those million political prisoners. He was first sent to a prison and then moved to two different re-education camps, without a trial and without ever knowing why he was arrested.

April 2015 www.groovekorea.com 57

We arrive that night in Dalat, which is a cool 18 degrees Celsius (64.4 degrees Fahrenheit) â&#x20AC;&#x201D; a substantial drop from the 25-degree weather weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve become accustomed to. Hai and Binh take us through the Dalat Night Market for a dinner of steamy hot beef noodles and tea. Sitting outdoors on a balcony, we watch as vendors decked out in parkas and beanies attempt to sell winter clothing, balloons, and sizzling fried goods to passersby. For dessert, Binh orders us a sweetened soy milk beverage that is the color of overcooked porridge and the consistency of runny glue. It is surprisingly tasty and warm, perfect on this cool night after the salty meal. Hai continues his story of life in the re-education camps. In 1987, he tells us, as suddenly as he was imprisoned, he was freed and allowed to go back home. Impoverished and alone, he made his way back to his hometown. Although the experience left him angry and resentful, his first priority in those days was survival. Upon arriving in Nha Trang, Hai found work as a cyclo driver and learned some rudimentary English. He also trained as a tailor and earned a living making clothes. It was difficult work, but Hai took pride in it. Although it was challenging to make friends after his ordeal, he eventually made a few good ones, like Binh. During those years he worked hard to rebuild the life he had lost.

T R A V E L Edited by Eileen Cahill (eileen@groovekorea.com)

The bustling Dalat Night Market, where you can buy an assortment of food and clothing and try a cup of delicious warm soy milk tea

It’s the last day of our tour. We’re a few hours out of Buon Ma Thuot, where Binh and Hai will leave us for good. We sit by a window overlooking an enormous coffee plantation, the fields spreading out beneath us to the edge of the horizon. Hai shares with us some of the problems he’s facing: demanding customers, increased competition, the lack of a distinctive brand name. There are hundreds of “Easy Riders” tour operators all over Vietnam, making it difficult for any one of them to build a strong reputation. And although Hai is proficient in English, many of his motorcycle guides are not. The increasing demand by tourists for English-language information means that Hai is the main guide on all trips, and he feels immense pressure to improve his speaking abilities. And yet Hai enjoys his work as a tour operator. Through Easy Riders he’s seen more of his country, and he’s had a chance to interact with foreign travelers and learn about their cultures and customs. His fares also fill him in on politics, music and current events — things he missed hearing about in the years after the war ended, when the government maintained a tight grip and restricted access to information. Similar tour companies in Vietnam receive perks for taking visitors to specific commercial sites such as silk factories, restaurants and hotels. Unlike his competitors, Hai emphasizes those sites he considers the most beautiful, interesting

58 www.groovekorea.com April 2015

Nguyen Duc Hai of Easy Riders, pictured next to his motorcycle

or unique. One is the unassuming Jun village by Lak Lake, home to the M’nong ethnic minority group. The community is warm and generous, and the cuisine — traditional Vietnamese mountain food — is a refreshing change. “Lak Lake is my favorite place,” Hai says. “(The) people there (are) poor but still nice and friendly because they still (keep the traditions) of (the) mountain people.” Our last stop is a quick lunch in this village. Sitting in a simple outdoor restaurant, we take in the view of the muddy lake, nearly cloudless sky, and colorful fishing boats scattered haphazardly along the water’s surface. A view like this would be prime real estate in most parts of the world, but we have the luxury of enjoying it for the equivalent of $3.

The enthusiastic yet humble man chatting with the loading staff in front of me bears no obvious signs of the profound pain he suffered for five years. We only saw brief flashes, when he spoke of his life in the camps. After lunch, we take a walk around the village. A friend of the restaurant owner offers to show us around, and we follow him toward the lake. He is beckoned over by a group of locals, who offer us a cold drink. Without thinking, I accept. It tastes like sour juice squeezed from a sausage, and is most likely home-fermented. The group laughs as I try not to gag. This is the last thing I drink before we reach Buon Ma Thuot.

Edited by Eileen Cahill (eileen@groovekorea.com)

MORE INFO: Easy Riders www.motorcyclememory.jimdo.com +84-090-5116221

TRA V E L

We arrive at the bus terminal less than 30 minutes before departure. After Hai helps us purchase our tickets, we have a quick coffee in a dingy café at the back of the depot. There’s an awkward lull in the conversation before Hai clears his throat. “So,” he says. “About payment …” We take out our wallets and settle our bill with our two drivers, giving them each a $15 tip (16,600 won or 323,000 Vietnamese dong). This is about 15 percent of the cost of the entire trip, and each driver accepts it with a small bow. Hai will tell me later that it’s one of the most generous tips he has ever received. The two men insist on helping us with our backpacks, given our obvious fatigue. This feels wrong, too reminiscent of colonial times, but in my sleepy stupor I make no effort to stop them. As they carry our belongings across the terminal, I’m very aware of my privilege — we are boarding a deluxe bus, and the fare is roughly a week’s salary for someone earning the Vietnamese minimum wage. To save money on a night’s lodgings, Hai and Binh will depart immediately for Nha Trang after spending almost 10 hours with us. The trip is 184 kilometers, most of it along unpaved dirt roads and — because the sun is about to set — in the dark. Our guides drop the two 65-liter backpacks into the luggage compartment. I think about Hai after his release from the re-education camps. He journeyed back to Nha Trang with nothing, forced to start a new life from scratch. The enthusiastic yet humble man chatting with the loading staff in front of me bears no obvious signs of the profound pain he suffered for five years. We only saw brief flashes, when he spoke of his life in the camps. The bus is about to depart. We say our farewells, exchanging hugs and email addresses as the engine behind us shudders. We leave our two guides behind and board the bus, heading for the city of Hoi An. As we settle in our seats, we watch Hai and Binh drive out of the depot and disappear from view. While we continue our vacation, they’ll head back to work, running the same trip for others like us — other tourists privileged enough to visit one of the most stunning regions of Vietnam.

Linh Phuoc Pagoda, Dalat

Nguyen Duc Hai of Easy Riders gets ready for departure

SPO RT S Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)

Story by Liam Ring / Photos courtesy of Seoul Survivors

Surviving Thriving E x pat R u gby making inroads on the p enins u l a

ugby isn’t a sport we often associate with the Land of the Morning Calm. However, Seoul Survivor’s stalwart Joe Day, an ex-referee who has been on the peninsula since 1980, points out that South Korea usually held their own against East Sea rivals Japan until the Brave Blossom’s decision thirty years ago to enlist residential foreign players. Yet despite the Korea Rugby Union being well-established, with over 2,000 registered players and numerous University and Company teams, most expatriate’s experience of the sport here will be a trip to Incheon to cheer on South Korea as they try to avoid a shellacking at the hands of their

neighbours. Against that background there is a growing grass roots movement helping to give the sport a greater presence as South Korea attempts to qualify for the 2019 World Cup in Japan. This is typified by an organization that networks across the country, with one of the most dynamic sides around - the Seoul Survivors. The Survivors, as one of the leading members of the Korea Expat Rugby Association (KERA), have been scrumming down since 1978. They initially played sporadic 15-a-side matches against touring sides and Korean Old Boys teams, totalling only a handful of games a year. However, the growing interest of military sides such as Camp Casey and Humphries, allied with KERA

gradually focusing on playing the 10-a-side game, meant that more regular rugby could be played while not pressurizing squad sizes. Starting out as the only non-military side playing in the tournaments in the mid90’s, the Survivors have seen the mainly English Teacher expat sides increase while the military sides have reduced their involvement; until now when one combined military side plays in an eight team league and cup tournament that runs throughout the year. Regular Teacher teams are drawn from Seoul, Daejeon, Daegu , Jeonam, Geoje and Busan .Omitting the mid-season break in July / August and the close season in December / January, KERA sides are able to meet one weekend a month for an 8-game

60 www.groovekorea.com April 2015

Rugby players new to an area will always be on the lookout for games, and those new to Seoul who love the game are attracted to our club. event. These matches form part of a league structure which builds towards a 14-game season culminating in early November for the Kera League Cup . The season wraps up later in November with a one day knockout competition, with matches to crown the Kera Shield winner and ‘award’ the 8th side with a wooden spoon. Each side hosts

one round of the season’s fixtures, giving players plenty of opportunity to travel across the country and meet like-minded fans of the game. It’s this building of the rugby community that helps to continue KERA’s rise. Counting a squad membership in the mid-thirties, Seoul boasts a core group of players even as the expat lifestyle means a regular turnover in members. Day emphasises that the club rarely has problems in attracting members. “Rugby players new to an area will always be on the lookout for games, and those new to Seoul who love the game are attracted to our club,” he said.”. This is something echoed further south, as an increase in foreign employees has allowed clubs in Daejeon, Daegu and on the south coast to develop stronger playing squads and increase KERA’s infrastructure. Simon Walsh, Survivor’s captain and a veteran of eight years, believes that having well-developed sides across the country is key in creating a league format where the level of teams are equal as well as encouraging players competitively with dieting regimens and trips to the gym.

every SATURday

APRIL

Seoul Baseball League

Dillingers / Beer O’Clock / Sam Ryan’s / Route 66 9am and 12pm Gwacheon Government Complex (Line 4)

K-League Classic

FC Seoul vs. Jeju 2pm Sangam World Cup Stadium (Line 6)

K-League Challenge

* Expect earlier kick-off times for Seoul E-land games due to nearby baseball games.

APRIL

4,5

Korea Baseball Organization

Samsung vs. LG Twins April 4th @ 6.30pm / April 5th @ 2pm Jamsil Stadium (Line 2)

Korea Ultimate Players Association

SATURDAY

Korea Ex-pat Rugby Association Team tournament Daegu

Korea Baseball Organization

Doosan vs. LG Twins April 11th@ 5pm / April 12th @2pm Jamsil Stadium (line 2) wednesday

APRIL

15 18,19

18 TUESDAY

APRIL

Korea Baseball Organization

Kia vs. Doosan April 25th,26th @ 5pm / April 26th @ 2pm Jamsil Stadium (Line 2)

Korea Baseball Organization

Seoul Gaels GAA, Laochra Busan GAA and Daegu Fianna GAA. Venue: Busan

April 2015 www.groovekorea.com 61

APRIL

Lotte vs Doosan Bears April 18th @ 5pm / April 19th @ 2pm Jamsil Stadium (Line 2)

FC Seoul vs. Guangzhou Evergrande 7.30pm Sangam World Cup Stadium (line 6)

APRIL

SATURDAY

Korea Baseball Organization

Asian Champions League

WEEKEND

11-12 APRIL

FC Seoul vs. Daejeon 7.30pm Sangam World Cup Stadium (Line 6)

Suwon vs FC Seoul 2pm / Suwon Station (Line 1)

APRIL

WEEKEND

K-League Classic

WEEKEND

3-5 APRIL

Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)

APRIL

WEEKEND

S P O RTS

Jeju Fresh Fourteens featuring 22 Ultimate Clubs from around South Korea and Asia April 3rd – 7pm (welcome ceremony) Jeju Island

MORE INFO www.facebook.com/SeoulSurvivors/info?tab=page_info

APRIL

Seoul E-land vs. Daegu FC t.b.c.* Seoul (Jamsil) Olympic Stadium (Line 2) WEEKEND

The Survivors have also been able to build relationships overseas. The Yellow Sea Cup, co-founded by Survivor’s president Ted Gray, involves the Beijing Devils, the Shanghai Hairy Crabs and possibly in the near future the Taipei Baboons. Running for the past ten years, it gives the Survivors the chance to pitch their skills against 15s sides from overseas on a round-robin basis. Other touring sides this year include both male and female sides from Hong Kong University later this month. While the men of the Survivors and Daejeon Knights will square off against the Hong Kongers, HKU’s female side will play against the Seoul Sister’s club, who are celebrating their tenth successful year. All three games will take place at the Incheon Mechanical Engineering High School, a venue used in the past as finding appropriate pitches closer to home is a challenge. The club has also just returned from the international 10s tournament in Manila and is planning a trip in the near future to Cambodia. It’s building up to be a very busy season, and without both international and local support, the Survivors wouldn’t be having the successes they’ve had. Financial Sponsorship is provided by Savills Korea, Wilson’s Parking and the Hyatt Hotel and S.A.B. Miller the drinks giant also supply products such as VB and Kozel beer for fund-raising charity drives. With Seoul Survivors and KERA working to broaden the sport’s influence while having a presence in the community, there is still scope for what is already a success story. Upcoming events such as the Daegu 10s on April 11th and trips to Shanghai and Cambodia ensure that the Survivors will be kept busy, and as one of the most successful expatriate sports clubs in South Korea, there is no reason to think it can’t strengthen. Commitment to a cause is often half the battle, and the Survivors match that both on and off the pitch. With many thanks to KERA founder Joe Day, Seoul Survivors Manager Yoon Sok-Hee and Captain Simon Walsh for their time and help with the article.

SATURday

Story by Liam Ring and Sigue Lee / Photos courtesy of Seoul Arsenal Supporter’s Club

Gunning for Glory A rsena l fans in the F ar E ast

62 www.groovekorea.com April 2015

Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)

SPO RT S

ovelist and celebrity Arsenal fan Nick Hornby wouldn’t imagine being quoted in a bar in one of Seoul’s best known university districts. But when asked why he continued to support Arsenal even through the lean years, Gooner Na Eun-sa was quick to respond with a line from Hornby’s breakthrough work (and Arsenal fan memoir) Fever Pitch. “You divorce a wife; not a team.” It’s a comment echoed in spirit by fellow Arsenalite Lee Jae-sung, who says that while many overseas EPL fans are attracted to glory and trophies, loyalty is more important. At least the stylish play of the North London outfit has given him some succour during the perennial under-achievement in both domestic and European competition. Both members of the 2,000 strong Arsenal Korea supporters club, the two fans trace their allegiance back to the late 90’s, and Arsenal’s ice-cold Dutchman Dennis Bergkamp. A genius who Lee remembers terrorising South Korea during the ’98 World Cup, he’s the type of player that the North London side have long lacked and one who brought so many supporters into the fold during the early Arsene Wenger era. That era coincided with the arrival of the English Premier League on Korean television screens, and an opportunity for both men to see a side boasting legends like Thierry Henry, Marc Overmars and Robert Pires. Na talks of Henry giving him one of his most memorable experiences, when he found himself as as a raw recruit doing military service surrounded by Manchester United fans. He remembers inwardly celebrating a Henry last-minute headed winner surrounded by glum –faced red devils. “I couldn’t celebrate because I might make the higher-ranking soldiers angry,” he recounts, MORE INFO 모두들 사랑한다 말합니다 (Everyone Says I love you) Seoul Mapo-gu Sangsu-dong 317-8 ‘Everyone says I love you’ is 200 metres straight from Exit One of Sangsu station (line 6). Come out exit three and take the first right. It’s half-way down the street on the left hand side. 02-324-9478 www.ashburton.co.kr 010-9220-0204 - Arsenal Korea Chairperson In-beom Wang. 010-2523-2288 - Arsenal Korea Treasurer Jae-sung Lee. ask@arsenal.co.kr - official mail address.

I couldn’t celebrate because I might make the higher-ranking soldiers angry,” he recounts, “but we did the double over them that year, and it was my happiest time in the military.”

“but we did the double over them that year, and it was my happiest time in the military.” Last season’s FA Cup final win broke a trophy drought back to 2005. Lee watched the win over Hull, and watches other matches when time and Ki-Seung-yong obsessed TV schedules allow, at the lyrically monikered ‘Everyone Says I Love You’ near Sangsu station. “To be honest, it’s difficult for people to organize and watch games unless they are early kick-offs.” However, fans made such a racket at that game that the police came and told them to quieten down. Excitement at signings like Mesut Ozil and Alexis Sanchez has been tempered by some of Arsenal’s more questioned acquisitions or the inability to invest in defence. The jury is still very much out on Danny Welbeck as a striker, while a fair dose of eye-rolling and head –shaking greets the mention of Korean striker Park Chuyoung’s brief and painful time at the club. While both Na and Lee obviously wish for a return of the Invincibles era, Lee sees much of the under-dog in Arsenal’s battles against the fantastic riches of the Manchester clubs and Chelsea. And perhaps another FA Cup final in May can see Arsenal fans in Seoul raise the roof in support of their team again. Though another visit from the police may be not quite what the bar owners need. The ‘Be a runner, be a Gooner’ Charity Marathon (which is the equivalent length of ten circuits of Arsenal’s Emirates Stadium takes place on April 11 near Maebong Station on line 3. All fees collected will go to the Arsenal Foundation which runs mentoring charities to aid young people through education and sport. Register through the Korean Arsenal Supporters Website (Korean only) – http://ashburton.co.kr/

Story by Jesse Tyler Watt / Photos by Jesse Tyler Watt

Ironman Triathlete A three-year journey to Ironman Status

How I started

Triathlon’s history

Triathlon’s origins go back to San Diego and a handful of recreational athletes in the mid1970’s. At a time when even jogging was novel, these pioneers developed grassroots races involving swimming, biking, and running in various permutations. Events grew in number and legitimacy, and the first Ironman race - likely the most recognized flavor of triathlon among the general public - took place in Hawaii in 1978; basically the result of trashtalking about which sport created the best endurance athletes. The 2000 Sydney Summer Olympics held a shorter, punchier race (now aptly referred to as ‘Olympic Distance’ triathlon), which has continued in every summer games since, and the sport has grown as a hobby internationally all the while.

The physical requirements

Getting Involved

The other factor that keeps people from the sport is more pragmatic, and I’d say the biggest issue is accessibility. Equipment such as the bike and wetsuit can be costly, and it may seem difficult getting signed up for races, especially here in Korea. For gear, I would recommend getting a road bike - the kind with the U-shaped handlebars. While I have seen a handful of mountain bikes and road bikes used in Olympic-distance races, their riders usually seem to have trouble with them, as they will take quite a bit more energy to ride, even at a slower speed. A road bike means you do not need to break the bank. There is a lot of used road bike commerce going on through the internet in Korea, and with research a good used road bike can be found for a reasonable price. Also, remember that the bike

The benefits

To be honest, this hobby can be a pain. I’m so far down the rabbit hole that I wake up at 4:30am for Sunday rides, contend with the gong show of public swimming every other day, and always have a hamper full of smelly laundry. It has also changed my life. Not long ago, I was constantly bored and turning to either beers at the pub or comatose PlayStation sessions to pass the hours. I now always have a training session or a race to look forward to, goals to aim for (relatively insignificant as they may seem), and a great group of training and racing comrades. After a lifetime of sports, triathlon was finally the activity that helped me quit or curb many of my more ‘poisonous’ habits and thought patterns, and I foresee myself staying with it as long as my body (and wife!) allow it. There’s a joke about triathletes and their proclivity to blather on: “How can you spot the triathlete in a room? They’ll tell you.” While many may understandably attribute this to ego or pride, I like to think we can’t shut up about it because of the overwhelmingly positive changes the sport has made to our lives, and our desire to help others discover that change as well. For ways to get involved check out the Seoul Synergy page on Facebook. Jesse is happy to answer specific questions if you email wattytriathlon@gmail.com

April 2015 www.groovekorea.com 63

Physical fitness dissuades some people from trying a triathlon. I’ve often heard, “Man, you must be in great shape.” Thing is though, at every race there are participants of all sorts of body types and levels of fitness. When I started, I couldn’t swim 100 meters, had never run more than 5 kilometers at once, and the extent of my bike experience was taking my

When I started, I couldn’t swim 100 meters, had never run more than 5 kilometers at once, and the extent of my bike experience was taking my BMX off sweet jumps when I was ten.

doesn’t just have to be for triathlons. Even if triathlon ends up not being your thing, it’s easy to catch the cycling bug. The other initial expense is the wetsuit, which is a necessity because the swims in virtually every triathlon are in open water, and open water in Korea is cold. The other reason is buoyancy; a wetsuit gives that extra lift in the water which most of us who have never swum competitively need. Entry-level wetsuits are in Korean triathlon online stores for around $200, although you might want to go to a store in person to check the size first. I have had mine for three years now, and it will last a few more. Worst case: If you buy one and come to decide triathlon’s not for you, you can probably sell it used online.

Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)

Three years ago I bought a simple commuter bike. I was proud of that thing. It was the first “nice” bike I’d ever bought (meaning it cost more than a hundred bucks), and within my first hour of tearing around the neighborhood on it, it occurred to me that I should enter some kind of race. And hey, anybody can run, so if I could just learn how to swim, why not a triathlon? I knew nothing about triathlon then, other than it consisted of those three activities and that it looked kind of exotic.

BMX off sweet jumps when I was 10. Within three months I was ready for my first race. To newcomers I would say: “start small.” The shortest and most common distance for races available in Korea is Olympic, which is a 1.5km swim, a 40-km bike, and a 10-km run. The first time I saw this I was reeling. However, a few months of training - a 20-minute training run here, a weekend bike ride there, and a few swims a week - will get you the fitness you need. It’s just important to be consistent and committed. If you view the process as a journey and let the little achievements along the way spur you forward to race day and ultimately the finish line, everything will be that much more motivating and rewarding.

S P O RTS

esse has completed a dozen triathlons over the past three seasons including five at the Ironman distance. Although he accepts that he’s obsessive to the point of probably irritating on the subject, he also thinks that it has changed his life for the better.

Story by Liam Ring / Photos by Seoul Baseball League

Seoul Baseball League Expatriate baseball in Seoul

Story and photos by Steve Price from www.kleaguefootball.com

A New Era for Seoul Football

64 www.groovekorea.com April 2015

Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)

SPO RT S

The new capital side with a focus on the big time

ith the weather reaching into the heady teens it’s just about time to cast off your coats and think about all those healthy, outdoor weekend activities. Ryan Burda, who started the Seoul Baseball League with some like-minded friends four years ago, suggests making for the baseball diamond. Whether it’s learning a new sport or brushing up on some old skills, there’s a place on the pitch for you in a league that was at its best and most competitive over the last year and is looking to build on both its sporting and community links. The Seoul Baseball League is running a four team tournament with games Saturday mornings at nine and twelve. As with last year, the games will be played at Gwacheon Complex, with fourteen to fifteen players drafted into each league. Ryan describes games as fun and competitive, with the best players in the past even participating in the top amateur division in the country as part of the Seoul ex-patriots team. Even if you don’t think you can scale those heights, there is plenty of room for every baseball skill set, ranging from college players to those who haven’t picked up a bat since elementary school or have never taken to the mound. And if you only feel like watching, there can always be beer and barbecues to build up the camaraderie. All teams have sponsorship from affiliated bars in the Itaewon area, ensuring that the Seoul Baseball League offers entertainment in the evenings as well. The four bars spon-

soring this year are Dillingers, Beer O’Clock, Sam Ryan’s and Route 66, with these fine establishments also putting on special nights for players (and those player’s friends) during the season. The season culminates with the play-offs and an end-ofseason banquet to bring the curtain down on another successful season for an organisation dedicated to not just playing the sport and ex-pat fostering community spirit, but is also active in helping with local charities. One such lucky charity is the Shinmang Orphanage in Gapyeoung for whom the League has raised three million won for over the past few years. The League became involved with the orphanage through one of the player’s churches and members of the team have gone there in order to play and coach baseball with the children. It’s an opportunity to give something back to a community that has helped many non-Koreans feel welcome over the years, and shows that there is more to the SBL than just bases and beers. So whether your skills (if any) lie in pitching, batting or fielding, embrace the new season with a chance to meet a great bunch of people passionate about both their sport and the people who play it. League membership fees are 50,000 won for the season – end of March to late June. The season draft takes place on March 20th at Route 66 bar in Itaewon with all players drafted into teams based on their skills and past experience of the sport. Once the season starts, people are welcome to join but will be placed on a waiting list.

MORE INFO www.facebook.com/pages/Seoul-Baseball-League/ 114708321944503

hile some cities like London or Buenos Aires boast over a dozen professional football clubs each, Seoulites have had just one team, located in the far west of the city. For those who live on the eastern side of Seoul, trekking to the World Cup Stadium to watch FC Seoul can take longer than watching the game itself. This season is about change as Seoul gets a second club ready to challenge the hegemony of the west-siders. Seoul E-Land FC were formed last year by the E-Land group who have been busy preparing the team for the upcoming season. Playing in the Olympic stadium in Jamsil, the club have constructed new stands inside the stadium so that fans are closer to the action. As a new club, they will start in the second tier of Korean football, called the ‘K-league Challenge’, however, they have spent a considerable amount of money in building a backroom staff and squad capable of challenging for promotion at the first time of asking. While not Abu Dhabi money and the heady successes of Manchester City, many pundits expect the new Seoul club to be among the big boys next season. Here are some of the people instigating their promotion challenge.

Manager: Martin Rennie Scotsman Rennie has spent most of his management career in North America, managing teams such as the Carolina Railhawks and Cleveland City Stars in the US Minor leagues before his big break at Vancouver Whitecaps. He led the Whitecaps to the MLS playoffs in his first season in charge, no small feat as they were ranked as the worst franchise in the MLS before he took over. Narrowly missing out on the playoffs in the following season, he left the Whitecaps before being appointed as Seoul E-land’s Manager. He will be joined in the dug-out by former Glasgow Celtic fitness coach Dan Harris who has coached under Steve Bruce and Tony Mowbray.

Story by Liam Ring

Soul of Seoul Seoul’s Big Club faces a new and uncertain season

No. 9 Ryan Johnson Jamaican international Ryan Johnson will provide E-land’s main goal threat this season. He has spent most of his career in North America’s MLS, playing for five different clubs there. His most successful spell was at the San Jose Earthquakes where in one season he was the club’s top goal scorer and MVP. A well-travelled player, Johnson has played in Europe and China as well as North America. Seoul E-Land have also brought in other strong players: goalkeeper Kim Young Kwang (AKA Glory) has made seventeen international appearances for Korea, Brazilian forward Tarabai was the top scorer in the Maltese top flight last season, and former Japan youth international Robert Cullen, who has J-League and Dutch Eredivisie experience.

MORE INFO www.fcseoul.com/en/main/main.jsp FC Seoul have a full English website with recent match reports and ticketing prices.

April 2015 www.groovekorea.com 65

Seoul E-land have two home games in April, the first is on Saturday 4th at 1pm against Daegu, and the other fixture is on Saturday 25th April at 11am against Bucheon. Throughout the season Seoul E-land’s games will be earlier in order to avoid clashes with nearby baseball fixtures. This also allows sports fans to enjoy a football-baseball double-header for a whole day of sport. With the finances and squad to immediately push for K-League Classic status, don’t be surprised if the E-landers are in the top division next year.

Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)

Defensive Midfielder Cho Won-Hee has thirty-six caps for the Korean National Team and has played in the English Premier League with Wigan Athletic. In addition to winning the K-League with Suwon Bluewings, he has also collected honours in the Chinese Super League twice with Guangzhou Evergrande. Used to playing at a higher level, Cho should be able to comfortably dictate the flow of the games at the Olympic Stadium.

young could be seen as a statement of intent, if that intent was to score hat-fulls of goals as he did during his last K-League spell in the early noughties. Unfortunately, any formula involving a striker who has only scored three competitive goals in two years may not work. Park’s return from Saudi Arabia comes off a poor World Cup and getting pelted with toffee at Incheon airport by disgruntled Taeguk fans. This is a player who needs to rediscover his scoring touch as much as the club needs him too. Do so and trophies and glory for both player and employer come. Otherwise, a record that saw only one side in the top seven score less than them last season is set to continue. Which will mean once again depending on what was last season’s second best defence led by vice captain Osmar. Thus far, reasonable Asian champions league form has been accompanied by three consecutive league defeats, with Seoul only really looking good up front against minnows Hanoi in a 7-0 qualifier win. The balancing of ACL form with domestic duties can be a tough one, and Seoul will struggle to come through a group containing defending champions Western Sydney, free-spending and scoring Guangzhou and Japan’s Kashima Antlers. Seoul have a trip to Sydney on match-day four on April 7th followed by a home tie against Guangzhou on the 21st, two matches that will probably decide whether they continue in continental competition or get to focus all their energies on domestic form. With only four points from their first three games positive results in those matches are vital.

S P O RTS

No. 4 Cho Won Hee

ong unchallenged in the capital, FC Seoul won’t have its own way anymore when it comes to attracting football supporters in the Seoul capital. The development of Seoul E-land will offer a definite challenge to a side that it could be charity said has begun to lapse slightly in their performances. Whether or not another capital club will give the Sangam side a new impetus may take some time to be seen. What isn’t really in doubt is that something needs to happen for a side which has seen players leave for the ostensibly more cash-rich Chinese League as they failed to take advantage of being the only show in town. Since the start of the decade, FC Seoul have won the K-League Classic twice, with a record points total in 2012 (96 from 44 games and a full 20 points clear of second place). Continental glory almost followed in 2013, as the side, bolstered by top scorer Dejan Damjanovic, were beaten finalists in the Asian Champions League final. The loss of the prolific Dejan to Jiangsu Sainty of the Chinese League the following season saw a definite drop as last season the side just scraped into the Champions League places on goal difference and lost the FA Cup final in a penalty shoot-out after a scoreless 120 minutes to Seongnam FC. Goals (and the distinct lack thereof) are the issue. Present manager Choi Yongsoo, himself a striker in both the K-League and Japan’s J-League will hope he’s hit on the formula to right that offensive bluntness from last season. The signing of former Sangam favourite Park, Chu-

LISTINGS

Edited by Sean Choi (sean@groovekorea.com)

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American Embassy (02) 397-4114 • 188 Sejong-daero, Jongno-gu, Seoul

Asan Medical Center 1688-7575 • 88 Olympic-ro 43-gil, Songpa-gu, Seoul

Canadian Embassy (02) 3783-6000 • (613) 996-8885 (Emergency Operations Center) Jeongdonggil (Jeong-dong) 21, Jung-gu, Seoul

Keimyung University Dongsan Medical Center (053) 250-7167 (7177 / 7187) • 56 Dalseong-ro, Jung-gu, Daegu

British Embassy (02) 3210-5500 • Sejong-daero 19-gil 24, Jung-gu, Seoul

Airlines

Australian Embassy (02) 2003-0100 • 19th fl, Kyobo bldg., 1 Jongno 1-ga, Jongno-gu, Seoul

Asiana Airlines 1588-8000

Philippine Embassy (02) 796-7387~9 • 5-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

Garuda Indonesia (02) 773-2092 • garuda-indonesia.co.kr

Lufthansa (02) 2019-0180

Spanish Embassy (02) 794-3581 • 726-52 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

Jeju Air 1599-1500

French Embassy (02) 3149-4300 • 30 Hap-dong, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul

Jin Air 1600-6200

HOTELS & RESORTS Banyan Tree Club & Spa Seoul (02) 2250-8080 • San 5-5, Jangchung-dong 2-ga Jung-gu, Seoul Novotel Ambassador Gangnam (02) 567-1101 • 603 Yeoksam 1-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Grand Hilton Seoul (02) 3216-5656 • 353 Yeonhui-ro, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul Somerset Palace Seoul (02) 6730-8888 • 85 Susong-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul Park Hyatt Seoul (02) 2016-1234 • 606 Teheran-ro, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Lotte Hotel Busan (051) 810-1000 • 772 Gaya-daero, Busanjin-gu, Busan Park Hyatt Busan (051) 990-1234 • 51, Marine City 1-ro, Haeundae-gu, Busan 612-824, Korea

EMERGENCY MEDICAL CENTERS Gangnam St-Mary’s Hospital 1588-1511 • 222 Banpo-daero, Seocho-gu, Seoul Yonsei Severance Hospital (Sinchon) (02) 2227-7777 • 50 Yonsei-ro, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul

T’way Air 1688-8686

British Airways (02) 774-5511 Cathay Pacific Airways (02) 311-2700 Delta Airlines (02) 754-1921 Emirates Airlines (02) 2022-8400

FAMILY & KIDS INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS Yongsan Intl. School (02) 797-5104 • San 10-213 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Seoul Intl. School (031) 750-1200 • 388-14 Bokjeong-dong, Sujeong-gu, Seongnam, Gyeonggi-do Branksome Hall Asia (02) 6456-8405 • Daejung-eup, Seogipo-si, Jeju Island Daegu Intl. School (053) 980-2100 • 1555 Bongmu-dong, Dong-gu, Daegu

Dulwich College Seoul (02) 3015-8500 • 6 Sinbanpo-ro 15-gil, Seocho-gu, Seoul admissions@dulwich-seoul.kr www.dulwich-seoul.kr The curriculum from Toddler to IGCSE (ages 2 years to 16 years) follows the best practice of the Early Years Foundation Stage Framework and English National Curriculum enhanced for an international setting.

Seoul National University Hospital 1339 • 28-2 Yeongeon-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul Seoul Samsung Hospital 1599-3114 • 50 Irwon-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

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Eton House Prep (02) 749-8011 • 68-3 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul A unique British-style Prep School for children of all nationalities from 2-13 years of age. A broad, challenging and innovative curriculum preparing pupils for senior school and life beyond. / www.etonhouseprep.com AMUSEMENT PARKS Everland Resort (031) 320-5000 • 310 Jeondae-ri, Pogok-eup, Cheoin-gu, Yongin-si, Gyeonggi-do Lotte World (02) 411-2000 0 • 240 Olympic-ro, Songpa-gu, Seoul Pororo Park (D-Cube city) 1661-6340 • 360-51 Sindorim-dong, Guro-gu, Seoul Children’s Grand Park (zoo) (02) 450-9311 • 216 Neungdong-ro, Gwangjin-gu, Seoul Seoul Zoo (02) 500-7338 • 159-1 Makgye-dong, Gwacheon-si, Gyeonggi-do BOOKSTORES What the Book? (02) 797-2342 • 176-2, Itaewon 1-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul • whatthebook.com Located in Itaewon, this English bookstore has new books, used books and children’s books. Kim & Johnson 1566-0549 • B2 fl-1317-20 Seocho-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul

HEALTH ORIENTAL MEDICINE Lee Moon Won Korean Medicine Clinic (02) 511-1079 • 3rd fl., Lee&You bldg. 69-5 Chungdam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Specializes in hair loss and scalp problems and offers comprehensive treatments and services including aesthetic and hair care products. Soseng Clinic (02) 2253-8051 • 368-90 Sindang 3-dong, Jung-gu, Seoul Yaksan Obesity Clinic (02) 582-4246 • 1364-7, Seocho 2-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul • www.dryaksan.com FITNESS Exxl Fitness Gangnam Finance Center, 737 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul • www.exxl.co.kr Daily Morning Ashtanga Yoga Mysore Classes (English) Jivamukti, Forrest, Universal Yoga (Korean) Apgujeong Rodeo Stn, Exit 4 (02) 515-6011• www.taoyoga.kr UROLOGY & OB Tower Urology (02) 2277-6699 • 5th fl. 119 Jongno 3-ga, Jongno-gu, Seoul

Animal hospitals Chunghwa Animal Hospital / Korea Animal Transport (02) 792-7602 • 21-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul / www.cwhospital.com Woori Pet Hospital (02) 393-6675 • 299-1 Youngcheon-dong, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul

MUSEUM & GALLERIES National Museum of Korea (02) 2077-9000 • 168-6 Yongsandong 6-ga, Yongsan-gu, Seoul The NMK offers educational programs on Korean history and culture in English and Korean. National Palace Museum of Korea (02) 3701-7500 • 12 Hyoja-ro, Jongno-gu, Seoul This museum has a program called Experiencing Royal Culture designed for English teachers to help learn about Joseon royal culture. Seodaemun Museum of Natural History (02) 330-8899 • 141-52 Yeonhui-dong, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul Don’t know where to take your kids on weekends? This museum exhibits a snapshot of the world and animals. National Museum of Contemporary Art, Korea (02) 2188-6000 • 313 Gwangmyeong-ro, Gwacheon-si, Gyeonggi-do Leeum Samsung Museum of Art (02) 2014-6901• 747-18 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul 10:30 a.m.-6 p.m. Closed on Mondays, New Year’s Day, Lunar New Year and Chuseok holidays. Kumho Museum (02) 720-5114 • 78 Sagan-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul 10 a.m.-6 p.m. Closed on Mondays. Gallery Hyundai (02) 734-6111~3 • 22 Sagan-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul The first specialized art gallery in Korea and accommodates contemporary art. 10 a.m.-6 p.m. Closed on Mondays, New Year’s Day, Lunar New Year and Chuseok holidays. Plateau (02) 1577-7595 • 50 Taepyung-ro 2-ga, Jung-gu, Seoul 10 a.m.-6 p. m. Closed on Mondays. National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art, Seoul (MMCA SEOUL) (02) 3701-9500 • 30 Samcheong-ro, Sogyeok-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul Daegu Art Museum (053) 790-3000 • 374 Samdeok-dong, Suseong-gu, Daegu Art space for local culture presenting Daegu’s contemporary fine arts and internationally renowned artists.

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Gyeongbokgung (Palace) Gyeongbokgung was the first royal palace built by the Joseon Dynasty in 1395, three years after the dynasty was founded. Gyeongbokgung served as the main palace of the Joseon Dynasty and represented its sovereignty. It is the largest of the Five Grand Palaces, the others being Gyeonghuigung, Deoksugung, Changgyeonggung and Changdeokgung. Deoksugung (Palace) The changing of the Royal Guard and the patrol ritual take place here. The palace is unique for its modern seal engraving and a Western-style garden and fountain. N Seoul Tower Formerly known as Namsan Tower. Its main attractions include multicolored digital art projected onto the tower at night, a digital observatory and a roof terrace. Cheonggyecheon (stream) An 11-kilometer-long modern stream that runs through downtown Seoul, created as part of an urban renewal project. Cheonggyecheon is a restoration of the stream that existed during the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910). Myeongdong Cathedral Myeongdong Cathedral is the very first Roman Catholic parish church in Korea. It is also the first Gothic building ever built in Korea and was designated as Historic site No. 285 in Korea.

www.groovekorea.com Contact Info 010-5348-0212 / (02) 6925-5057 For Advertising ads@groovekorea.com

TODAY DENTAL 3 Fl., 630-19 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul 1899-2854 Dental clinic specialized in cosmetic and general dentistry including dental implant and laminate. Oracle Clinic (Chungdam branch) 333 Bongeunsa-ro, Gangnam-gu, Seoul 1800-7588 Dermatologic and plastic surgery clinic with the largest number of branches in Korea 70+ overseas and domestic. Esarang Dental Clinic 26-16 Singongdeok-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul (02) 701-2199 Its internationally trained staff welcomes patients with heartfelt smiles. Dr.Kim’s Skin Laser & Esthetic Clinic (은피부과) 3 Fl., 85-2 Cheongdam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul (02) 546-3322 Offering a comprehensive dermatological services for all ages and skins Gangnam Seoul Bright Eye Clinic 18 & 19 Fl., Mijin Plaza, 390 Gangnam-daero, Gangnam-gu, Seoul / 1588-3882 Experienced staffs with 10.000+ operations of LASIK & LASEK.

Grand Hyatt Seoul National Museum of Korea The six-story building of the National Museum of Korea 322 Sowol-ro, Yongsan-gu, Seoul / (02) 797-1234 is ranked as the sixth-largest museum in the world. Grand Hilton Seoul 353 Yeonhee-ro, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul 63 City Building (02) 3216-5656 The 63 City skyscraper is a Yeouido landmark commanding spectacular views of the city. Standing Conrad Seoul 249 meters high and comprising 60 floors and three 23-1 Yeouido-dong, Youngdeungpo-gu, Seoul basement levels, 63 City is one of Korea’s tallest and (02) 6137-7000 most recognized buildings. Dongdaemun Market It is Korea’s largest wholesale and retail shopping district featuring 26 shopping malls, 30,000 speciality shops and 50,000 manufacturers. All kinds of goods can be found here including silk and fabric, clothes, shoes and accessories, electronics, leather goods, sporting goods, office supplies, pet products and toys.

Park Hyatt Seoul 606 Teheran-ro, Gangnam-gu, Seoul (02) 2016-1234

Gwanghwamun Square Gwanghwamun Square is divided into six sections. At its center stands a statue of King Sejong the Great, the fourth and most respected king of the Joseon Dynasty and creator of Hangeul, the Korean alphabet; and a statue of Admiral Yi Sunshin, a naval commander noted for his victories against the Japanese navy during the Japanese invasions of Korea (1592-1598) and a national hero.

JW Marriott Seoul 176 Shinbanpo-ro, Seocho-gu, Seoul (02) 6282-6262

Lotte World Opened in 1989, Lotte World is a major recreation complex in downtown Seoul. It consists of Indoor Adventure (the world’s largest indoor theme park), an National Museum of Modern and outdoor theme park called Magic Island, a luxury hotel, Contemporary Art, Seoul branch Opened in 2013, the MMCA consists of a small number the Korean Folk Museum, shopping malls, department of separate national art museums focusing on different stores, sports facilities and a movie theater, all in one place. aspects of post-19th-century art. The Seoul museum spotlights “cutting-edge and international art.”

Sheraton Grande Walkerhill 177 Walkerhill-ro, Gwangjin-gu, Seoul (02) 2022-0000

Lotte Hotel Seoul 30 Eulji-ro, Jung-gu, Seoul / (02) 771-1000 Somerset Palace Seoul 7 Yulgokro 2-gil, Jongro-gu, Seoul (02) 6730-8888 Novotel Ambassador Gangnam 130 Bongeunsa-ro, Gangnam-gu, Seoul (02) 567-1101 Banyan Tree Club & Spa Seoul San 5-5, Jangchung-dong 2-ga Jung-gu, Seoul (02) 2250-8080

Yongsandong Apts.

Embassy of The Republic of the Philippines

2 1

Hangangjin Stn.

ITAEWON (GYEOngnidan & HAEbangchon)

Itaewon (OVERVIEW)

Grand Hyatt Seoul Hotel

R14

Leeum Museum

R15 F4

Itaewon Elementary School

ITAEWON (main)

ksa

pye 3 ong S

L3 Hamilton Hotel 2 1 Itaewon Stn. 3 4

tn.

R20

Cheil L12

R2 R7

R16

IP Boutique Hotel

R11

Hannam Foreigner’s Apts.

L10

L1 Craftworks Taphouse Microbrewery A1 (02) 794-2537 • 238 Noksapyeong-daero, Yongsan-gu, Seoul The first expat-owned microbrewery in Korea still offers some of the best brews around. Try out their seasonal tastes in a warm and inviting ambience. R1 HBC Gogitjib (Haebangchon branch) A1 Korean bbq (02) 796-5528 • 46-5 Yongsandong 2-ga, Yongsan-gu, Seoul R2 Linus BBQ SANDWICH B3 (02) 790-2920 • 56-20 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Pulled pork sandwich, Brisket sandwich, coleslaw, mac and cheese R4 Vatos Urban Tacos Mexican B3 (02) 797-8226 • 181-8 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul A unique ambience makes this upscale restaurant an ideal place to fill your stomach with authentic favorites. F1 What The Book English bookstore B3 (02) 797-4342 • 2F. 176-2 Itaewon 1-dong, Yongsan-gu,Seoul Located in Itaewon, this English bookstore has new books, used books and childrens’ books. www.whatthebook.com

L3 Reilly’s Taphouse bar C3 (02) 792-6590 • 3F. 123-32 Itaewon 1-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Reilly’s Taphouse boasts some 20 draft beers and is committed to carrying the best craft brews from Korea and around the world. R7 Joongsim Korean B3 (02) 2235-0707 • 34-39 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

R19

Bokwang R9 Le Saigon Vietnamese B3 Elementary School (02) 792-0336 • 74-33 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

L5 Wolfhound Irish pub C3 (02) 749-7971 • 128-6 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul L7 Rocky Mountain Tavern bar D3 010-6654-7202 • 736-12 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul R11 On The Border Mexican D3 (02) 792-0682 www.ontheborder.co.kr Authentic Mexican restaurant with homemade dishes and freshest ingredients with 25 margaritas to choose from. F3 High Street Market Grocery shop for imported items D3 (02) 2201-0652 • 727-24 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul One-stop shop for imported groceries and coveted deli products. F4 Beaker Shopping D2 (070) 4118-5216 • 738-36 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Discover a wide array of fashion items by the best international designers including James Perse, Aspesi, Rag&Bone, Vince, Jack Spade and more. R20 Sushi Way SUSHI RESTAURANT B3 (02) 794-3774 • 6 fl., 64-15 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Authentic Japanese Sushi restaurant with Fresh ingredients & Best price R14 Pizzeria D’Buzza Italian E1 (02) 794-9474 • 743-33 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul This trendy joint has a full range of Italian fare. Make sure to make a reservation.

Place to relax and unwind Oriental massage and Spa packages for couples available

R15 Nari Jib Korean bbq D2 (02) 793-4860 • 738-24 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Samgyupsal and Cheonggukjang (pork BBQ and soybean paste pot stew) C2 Richesse Velours Cafe D2 (02) 797-8878 • 741-17 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Try its signature dessert menu item, bottled cupcakes. S2 One Spa Therapy SPA & massage D2 (02) 749-0409 • 3rd fl., 124-7 Itaewon 1-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul, Spa and massage packages starts at 20,000w. R16 Gida Sushi Japanese D2 (02) 749-3558 • 683-125 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Sushi bar with reasonable prices. L8 Yuda Japanese bar D2 (02) 388-5081 • 683-126 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul L9 Muntaro Japanese bar D2 (02) 796-7232 • 683-124 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul L10 Bull & Barrel Sports bar B3 (010) 9982-2423 • 44-82, Itaewon 1-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul A new hybrid bar and restaurant with a huge terrace and roof top and a state-of-the-art Dart Bar to throw at. R19 Left Coast Artisan burgers BURGER C3 (02) 6248-2998 3 • 131-20 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu. Seoul L12 Craftworks Taphouse Microbrewery D3 070-4131-5002 • 736-9 Hannam-dong 2nd floor, Yongsan-gu, Seoul The first expat-owned microbrewery in Korea still offers some of the best brews around. Try out their seasonal tastes in a warm and inviting ambience.

ONE SPA THERAPY

Foot massage 20,000w Full body massage starts at 30,000w

02-749-0409 (02) 793-2344

This tropical resort-themed lounge is a getaway from bustling city.

Seoul, Yongsan-gu, Itaewon-dong 112-3 Sun-Thu: 4:30 pm – 3 am Fri-Sat: 4:30 pm – 5 am

3rd fl. 124-7 Itaewon 1-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

(3 mins from Itaewon subway stn.)

10am – 5am

ITAEWON (GYEOngnidan & HAEbangchon)

R1 Bao Asian A4 (02) 797-4769 • 658 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul C1 Brick Lane Cafe A5 (02) 749-1660 • 532 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

L1 Magpie Brewing Microbrewery A3 (02) 742-2849 • 691 Itaewon 2-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul R10

Hanjin Villa

L2 Noxa Lounge LOUNGE A4 (02) 790-0776 • 671 Itaewon 2-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul This cozy neighborhood hangout in Itaewon specializes in cocktails and tapas. Check out DOJO, a downstairs bar with huge variety of alcohol on offer.

R17 R5 L5 L8 L6

R16

R3 Buddha’s Belly Thai A4 (02) 793-2173 • 673 Itaewon 2-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

Namsan Daerim Apts.

C2 The Baker’s Table Bakery Cafe A3 070-7717-3501 • 691 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul R8

R4 Burger Mine Burgers A2 070-8263-2034 • 45-9 Yongsan-dong 2-ga, Yongsan-gu, Seoul R5 Casablanca Moroccan A2 (02) 797-8367 • 44-8 Yongsan-dong 2-ga, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

Hanjin Villa

Hansin Apts.

C2 L1 R9 L7

Buy the Way cvs

MG Community Credit Cooperatives

R6 Pizzarium Pizza A5 (02) 312-7580 • 529 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

Wellbeing Mart Seoul Digitech High School

IBK

L9 L2

L5 Phillies Pub Pub A2 (02) 793 2548 • 44-17 Yongsan-dong 2-ga, Yongsan-gu, Seoul R8 HBC Gogitjib Korean bbq A2 (02) 796-5528 • 46-5 Yongsandong 2-ga, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

L6 Bonny’s Pizza & Pub Pub A2 (02) 792 0303 • 44-17 Yongsan-dong 2-ga, Yongsan-gu, Seoul R15

L7 Maloney’s Pub & Grill Pub b3 (02) 3785-1675 • 225-67 Itaewon 2-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul R9 The Booth Pizza b3 (02) 1544-4723 • 705 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

R13 R12 R6

Itaewon Post Office

Pacific Mansion Gold

CU cvs Rose Hill Villa

Itaewon Cheil Church

Itaewon Elementary School

Hyundai Villa

2 Itaewon Villa

R15 Mi Madre Spanish A4 (02) 790-7875 • 568 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

Green Mart

ksa

pye

ong

R16 The Hungry Dog Sandwiches A2 070-7635-7516 • 45-13 Yongsan-dong 2-ga, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

Stn

L9 Craftworks Taphouse Microbrewery A3 (02) 794-2537 • 238 Noksapyeong-daero, Yongsan-gu, Seoul The first expat-owned microbrewery in Korea still offers some of the best brews around. Try out their seasonal tastes in a warm and inviting ambience.

Rib-eye night every 1st & 3rd Monday. Unlimited rib-eye steak at only 15,000won.

R10 Jacoby’s Burgers Burgers A1 (02) 3785-0433 • 45-6 Yongsan-dong 2-ga, Yongsan-gu, Seoul R12 Taco Chili Chili Mexican A5 (02) 797-7219 • 527 Itaewon 2-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul R13 Trevia Italian A4 (02) 794-6003• 557 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Their pizzas are Roman-style; the thin, crispy dough comes out of the oven literally smoking hot.

(02) 796-5528 46-5 Yongsandong 2-ga, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

Craftworks Taphouse Try out their seasonal tastes in a warm and inviting ambience.

R17 Kusina Filipino A2 (02) 790-1826 • 44-7 Yongsan-dong 2-ga, Yongsan-gu, Seoul L8 Phillies Pub A2 (02) 793-2548 • 44-17 Yongsandong 2-ga, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Come check out one of the most popular foreign pubs you’ll find in Seoul.

(02) 794-2537 238 Noksapyeong-daero, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

Phillies Pub

(02) 793-2548

44-17 Yongsan-dong 2-ga, Come check out one of Seoul, Korea 140-842 oldest and most popular foreign pubs you’ll find in Seoul.

ITAEWON (MAIN)

Cafe / Bakery / DESSERT Hair salon / spa

RESTAURANT PUB / LOUNGE Shopping

R10 L9 L8

R5 R2

L10 L19

L1 L16

Shinhan Bank ABC Mart

R16

D’oro Hotel

R13

Hamilton Hotel

L17

L11

R14

R11 L5

Concierge

Itaewon Stn.

R20

Starbucks

GS gas station

Itaewon Fire Station

R17

L13

L18 R21

7-Eleven cvs

IBK

ITW Hotel

CU cvs CU cvs

R19

R1 Bulldogs HOTDOG D4 (02) 6248-2998 • 131-20 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu. Seoul R2 HBC Gogitjib (Itaewonbranch) Korean bbq A2 (02) 796-5528 • 118-9 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

L9 Prost pub C2 (02) 796-6854 • 116-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

R19 Marrakech Night Moroccan D4 (02) 795-9441 • 131-3 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

R10 Maple Tree House Korean bbq C2 (02) 790-7977 • 116-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

L16 Reilly’s Taphouse bar D2 (02) 792-6590 • 3F. 123-32 Itaewon 1-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

R11 Ho Lee Chow Chinese C2 (02) 793-0802 • 119-25 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul L1

L10 All that Jazz Jazz club D2 (02) 795-5701 • 112-4 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul R13 My Thai Asian D2 (02) 794-8090 • 123-20 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul R14

R6 Le saint EX French B2 (02) 795-2465 • 119-28 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul L4 3 Alley pub pub B2 (02) 749-3336 • 116-15 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul L5 Baby Guinness pub B2 (02) 792-2777 • 119-17 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul R7 Pattaya Thai B2 (02) 793-4888 • 116-14 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul L6 Gecko’s Avenue Lounge C2 (02) 790-0540 • 116-6 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul L8 Glam Lounge C2 (010) 2657-6853 • 116-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul L8

R21 Un Deux Trois French D2 (02) 796-1244 • 123-33 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul An authentic French brasserie where traditions and trends mix, symbolizing a Parisian way of life L17

L1 Rose & Crown pub A2 (02) 794-2555 • 118-23 Itaewon 1-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Classic British pub specializes in ales and carries 40+ draft and bottled beers R5 Zelen Bulgarian B2 (02) 749-0600 • 116-14 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

F1 Botisto Shopping E2 (02) 749-1232 • 124-9 Itaewon 1-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Custom-made Italian shoes for men. Design your own shoes and have them made in Italy according to your feet measurements.

R14 Jonny Dumpling 2 Chinese D2 (02) 790-8839 • 123-5 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul L11 Jeon Mandang Korean bar D2 (070) 8749-5004 • 118-18 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul L13 Dillinger’s pub B3 (02) 793-7232 • 72-32 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul R18 Don Valley Korean bbq C3 (02) 796-2384 • 127-12 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul L15 Between bar E2 (02) 795-6164 • 124-7 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul R17 Gecko’s Terrace American C3 (02) 749-9425128-5 • Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul R17

L17 The Glamping Bar&Grill A2 (02) 792-3189 • 171-23 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Recreate the feel of outdoor camping and BBQ cuisine in the warm indoors. L18 Hollywood Grill Bar&Grill D2 (02) 749-1659 • 123-33 Itaewon 1-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul One of Itaewon’s favorite expat haunts. A real sports bar famed for its burgers and its broad range of pub fare. L19 The Bungalow Bar D2 (02) 793-2344 • 112-3 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul This tropical resort-themed lounge is a getaway from bustling city.

GArosugil (sinsa-dong)

R1 Elbon the table Italian A1 (02) 547-4100 • 530-5 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

Cafe / Bakery / DESSERT Hair salon / spa

RESTAURANT

R2 Vatos Urban Tacos Mexican A1 (02) 548-8226 • 532-11 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

PUB / LOUNGE 1

Shopping

CU cvs

R1 7-Eleven cvs

R3 Janes Picky Pizza Pizza B1 (02) 542-5354 • 547-5 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

Shingu Elementary School

Starbucks

L1 Sparkle Lounge A2 (02) 547-3001 • 532-4 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

Imagestar

C11

C1 La Eskimo Bakery B2 (02) 512-9244 • 546-3 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

C12

R4 Spain club Spanish A2 (02) 515-1118 • 524-30 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

R5 Deli Heinz Burg Burger A3 (02) 541-8780 • 534-1 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

R6 The Original Pancake House Pancake A3 (02) 511-7481 • 523-20 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

C4 Hindol

Villa

GS25 cvs

C2 Ikovox coffee Cafe A3 (02) 545-2010 • 534-10 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

R14

C3 Allo paper garden Cafe A3 (02) 541-6933 • 520-9 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

R10 R9 f3

Hanyoung House

R7 buccella sandwich B3 (02) 517-7339 • 534-22 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

R11 R13

C4 Godiva chocolate B3 (02) 517-3979 • 545-6 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

CU cvs

R9 Sarubia Italian B4 (02) 540-7344 • 542-3 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

L2 7-Eleven cvs

R10 Hansung Mungo B4

Starbucks

Japanese Ramyeon (02) 543-7901 • 2F. 542-3 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

R12

IBK

GS25 cvs

R16

tn.

S nsa

Youngdong

R15

S-oil gas Station

Hotel

R11 Taco Chili Chili Mexican A4 (02) 545-1705 • 535-9 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

C6 Coffee Smith Cafe B5 (02) 3445-3372 • 536-12 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul L2 Wanso Izakaya C4 (02) 3444-2021 • 539-4 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul R13 El Plato Spanish C4 (02) 325-3515 • 540-5 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul C8 Tokyo Panya Bakery C4 (02) 547-7790 • 543-8 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul f1 Massimo Dutti Shopping B4 (02) 545-6172 • 541-7 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul f2 8 seconds Shopping B4 (070) 7090-1144 • 535-12 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul C9 Ben’s Cookies Cookies A4 (02) 514-0051 • 518-10 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul f3 Marimekko Shopping B4 (02) 515-4757 • 535-18 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul R14 March Rabbit Veggie C3 (02) 3444-4514 • 560 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul R15 Yum Thai Thai C5 (02) 594-7988 •5-4 Nonhyun-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul R16 Songok Korean b5 (02) 545-3297 • 2 fl.537-7 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Since 1961, it’s been serving one of Korea’s best UDON, SOBA and DONKATSU. Strongly recommended for casual dining.

C12 Mercy Juice JUICE B2 (02) 547-3595 • 551-11 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Cleanses using 100% supernatural cold-pressed juice

C11 Remicone ICECREAM B2 (02) 6207-1029 • 547-12 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Ice cream haven.

L4 Hanchu PUB B1 (02) 541-0969 • 549-9 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Awarded ‘The best crispy fried chicken in Seoul’ by Chowzter. Get a side of pork stuffed and fried chili peppers.

R12 Bibigo Korean B5 (02) 544-7423 • 2F. 537-5 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

L5 De Chou Lounge C4 (02) 514-2014 • B1 fl. 540-19 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Carries unique Korean traditional soju not found in anywhere else. Pricey but absolutely worth exploring masterpieces by local brewers.

R2 Mano di Chef Italian C2

(02) 561-7111 • B1 825-18 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

R3 O’yull Healthy Fusion B3

(02) 554-0511 • 820-9 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

R4 Seoga & Cook Italian C2

(02) 558-5263 • 618-18 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul All menu items are priced at 18,000won

R5 BOBIRED Korean Fusion C2

(02) 3452-1515 • 618-18 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

R6 Norita Garden Italian B3

(02) 596-5258 • 7F 1317-13 Seocho-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul Cream pasta is recommended.

R7 Steakholic Steakhouse C3

(02) 568-8768 • 817-8 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul All-you-can-eat steak for 28,000won

R8 Doni Burger Burger B3

(02) 534-6282 • 1317-31 Seocho-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul Operated by famous comedian Chung Hyung-don

R9 Primo BacioBaci Italian B3

(02) 501-0885 • 816-3 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul (02) 3453-7697 • B3. 821 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Italian restaurant with a stage for live music and private parties

R11 Bonguhwaro Korean BBQ C2

(02) 558-8452 • 619-14 Yeoksam 1-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

R12 Gatten Sushi sushi C3

(02) 2051-1477 • 822-4 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul A Japanese sushi franchise

R13 Dochi Pizzeria Pizza C2

(02) 556-8001 • 620-17 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Neapolitan pizza made in a forno oven

R14 General Banjum Chinese C2

(02) 553-1920 • 619-5 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Try various kinds of dimsum

(02) 539-6650 • 818-8 Yeoksam 1-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Serving 9 different kinds of Big Rock premium beers from Alberta, Canada

R17 Lawry’s The Prime Rib Steak A4

(02) 590-2800 • 3F. 1317-23 Seocho-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul

C Hair salon / spa

Kyobo Tower

R19

Hollys

R18 Sushino Baek Chef Sushi C2

(02) 565-0802 • 619-5 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

RESTAURANT PUB / LOUNGE

R20

R19 Genroku Udon

Japanese noodles A1 (02) 3481-8555 • 1302-50 Seocho-dong,Seocho-gu, Seoul All-you-can-eat Japanese noodles

Yeoksam Post Office

R26

CGV

R15

R16

R18

R14 R11

R20 Elkin the Black Italian B2

(02) 568-6987 • 813 Yeoksam 1-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Try the lunch special of cream sauce with Boston steak pasta at 25,300won, served for two people.

R27 R13

Giordano R24

Lotte Cinema

R21 Rabat Moroccan B3

(02) 561-3665 • B2. 821-1 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Beef tajine with couscous at 26,500won

R25

R8 R3

(02) 599-1140 • 1317-14 Seocho-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul Popular Japanese burger franchise comes to Korea

R22 MegaBox R17

R10 R21

Starbucks

(02) 563-7977 • 822-1 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

R24 Chez Jin Italian C2

(02) 566-9079 • 817-35 Yeoksam 1-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Enjoy Italian cuisine with club music

L3 SOS Seafood Pub C3

(02) 508-0458 • 818-11 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Cajun seafood at its finest

R25 Johnny Rockets Burger B3

(02) 2051-1226 • 816-4 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

R12

12 Gangnam Stn.

R23

Samsung Digital

L2 Kodachaya Bar B2

(02) 3453-6666 • 808-5 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul 7 different tent bars with a unique concept for each. Its motto is ‘be crazy enough to win and too tired to lose’

S1 Nova Skin Clinic Skin clinic C3

(02) 2055-3610 • B1. 1320-10 Seocho-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul

R22 Mos Burger Burger B3

R23 Ganga Indian A4

Gangnam Stn.

R10 I Have a Dream Italian B3

L1 Big Rock Brewery Pub C3

hyeon Stn. Line9. Sinnon

(02) 593-5904 • 1303-35 Seocho-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul Two thumbs up. Fresh ingredients and a reasonable price.

R15 Big Plato Italian C2

(02) 557-3442 • 619-2 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul A vintage interior and decent prices.

R16 Mies Container Italian C2

(02) 536-5786 • 1316-29 Seocho-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul Salad spaghetti and bulgogi cream cheese pasta are recommended.

R26 Julio Mexican C2

(02) 568-5324 • 619-1 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

R27 Uncle 29 Mexican A2

•1308-16 Seocho-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul

(02) 590-2800

3rd floor, GT Tower, 1317-23, Seocho-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul www.lawrys.kr lunch 11:30am-2:30pm Dinner 5:30 pm-9:30pm

GANGNAM STATION

R1 Dos Tacos Mexican B2

HongDae (HongIK Univ.)

5 Ho ng

Cafe / Bakery / DESSERT

Hair salon / spa .

Stn

Lotte Cinema S1

n St ik ng 8

RESTAURANT

PUB / LOUNGE

Stn

DANCE CLUB

KFC

Coffee Bean R4 R1

Seokyo Elementary School

V-HALL R17

Seokyo Prugio Apts. C1

Bobo Hotel

Smoothie King

VELOSO D7

Halla Mansion

D12

R16

Lotte Cinema

9 8

KT&G SangsangMadang

D9 L1

R11 R8

7-Eleven cvs

C2 C3

5 Ha

o je

R12

R13

2 1

Wau Park

PRISM HALL

D11

Hongik University

CLUB GOGOS CLUB TA 打 D10 CLUB EVANS CLUB FF R2

Jungang heights Apts.

St 6 n. 7

Freebird2 EVANS LOUNGE

Wau Park

R10 R18 C5

1 Sangsu Stn. 4

2 3

C1 Paul & Paulina Bakery C2 (02) 333-0185 • 344-6 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

C3 Museum café aA Cafe b3 (02) 3143-7312 • 408-11 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

R1 Primo Baciobaci Italian C1 (02) 323-0098 • 346-47 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

C4 Okrumong Cafe b3 (02) 325-4040 • 402-18 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

D1 Club Freebird 2 (Big Bird) Club b3 (02) 335-4576 408-17 Seogyo-dong, mapo-gu, Seoul Club playing live music by local artists and bands facebook.com/clubfreebird2

C2 Peony Cafe b3 (02) 333-5325 • 403-15 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

R10 Pakumori Curry Japanese curry b3 (02) 322-5001 • 411-15 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

D2 Club NB Club / hip-hop C2 • 362-4 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoull

R2 Yoonsi Milbang Korean C3 (02) 3143-4116 • 411-6 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

C5 Kyo bakery Bakery b3 (02) 794-5090 • 317-7 Sangsoo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

D5 Club M2 Club / electronic b2 • 367-11 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

R3 Sunny the Grill Italian b3 (02) 337-8951 • 401-19 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

R11 Hongdae Jopok Dukpoki Korean b3 (02) 337-9933 • 407-21 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

D6 Club Mansion Club / electronic b2 • 368-22 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

R4 La Paella Spanish C1 (02) 322-8870 • 2F. 345-3 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

R12 Aloha Table Hawaiian b2 (02) 324-7718 • 364-14 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

D7 Club Freebird Club / live music b2 • 364-22 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

R5 Hakadabunko Japanese RAMEN c3 (02) 338-5536 • 93-28 Sangsoo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

R13 Agio Italian C2 (02) 322-8133 • 364-6 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

D9 Club DGBD Club / live music b3 • 395-17 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

S1 Hair & Joy Hair Salon C1 (02) 363-4253 • 3F. 168-3 Donggyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

R16 Yeonga Korean BBQ b2 (02) 336-9992 • 366-13 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

D10 Club Gogos Club / rock c3 • 407-8 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

L1 Castle Praha Pub b3 (02) 337-6644 • 395-19 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

R17 Gusto Taco Mexican C2 (02) 3142-8226 • 342-16 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul Mexican traditionalism done right: an efficient balance of flavor and texture.

D11 Club NB2 Club / hip-hop C2 • 361-10 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

R8 No Stress Kitchen Italian b3 (02) 6083-1252 • 404-8 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

R18 Gusto Taco Mexican C3 (02) 338-8226 • 146-6 Sangsu-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

D12 Club Cocoon Club / hip-hop C2 • 364-26 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

#liveishere Every last Friday on the month!

Get your pass at 20,000 won, Access 10 hottest and funkiest clubs in Hongdae!

SAMCHEONG-DONG

Silkroad Museum

R12 C1

R3 R4

Eros Museum

LeeC Gallery

Bansuk Villa

Café bene National Folklore Museum Samcheong Police Box Jinsun Book Café

Jeongdok Public Library

CU cvs

Bukchon Art&culture Museum

Hakgojae Gallery

R11

KIEHL’S

Seoul Education Museum

Art Sonjae Center R7

R10

National Museum of Contemporary Art, Seoul Branch

Dam Gallery R13

C1 Milk Bakery B1 (02) 735-7111 • 16-2 Palpan-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul

R1 A table French B1 (02) 736-1048 • 104-8 Palpan-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul R2 A table bis French B1 (02) 736-1049 • 100-2 Palpan-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul R3

R3 Cheongsoojeong 청수정 Korean / Seafood C1 (02) 738-8288 • 88-23 Samcheong-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul

R12

R5 The Restaurant French B3 (02) 735-8441 • 59-1 Sogyeok-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul R6 Agio Italian C3 (02) 720-1211 • 23-11 Hwa-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul C3 Hit The Spot Cafe b3 (02) 739-5100 • 87 Sogyeok-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul

R8 Ramyeon Dangineunnal 라면땡기는날 Korean noodle C4 (02) 733-3330 • 138-21 Hwa-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul R9 Dal Indian curry C4 (02) 736-4627 • 144-2 Sogyeok-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul R10 Satbyuldang Chicken C4 (070) 7773-4773 • 144-6 Sogyeok-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul Skewered chicken with soy sauce / spicy sauce at 2,000won. Just look for a long waiting line.

R4 Chez simon French C1 (02) 730-1045 • 63-10 Samcheongdong, Jongro-gu, Seoul C2 Café aA Cafe b3 (02) 722-1211 • 55 Sogyeok-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul C2

C4 Coffee Bangakgan 커피방앗간 Cafe b3 (02) 732-7656 • 102-1 Hwa-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul R7 Cheonjin Poja 천진포자 Asian C4 (02) 739-6086 • 148-2 Sogyeok-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul

R11 Samcheonghwa Korean C4 (02) 733-8273 • 112 Sogyeok-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul R12 Flora Pizza C1 (02) 732-7009 • 147-20 Samcheong-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul Forno-ovened pizza R13 Kongji Potji Italian D4 (02) 745-2203 • 34-1 Jae-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul

Myeong-dong

Euljiro 1(il)-ga Stn. 8

7-Eleven cvs

5 7

1 Lotte Hotel

KEB

Seoul

TGI

Mr. Pizza

Myeong-dong Tourist Information Center

Metro Hotel

Skypark Hotel [II]

7-Eleven cvs

Skypark Hotel [Central]

Lotte Duty Free

Lotte Avenuel

Seoul YMCA

ABC Mart

Ibis Ambassador Hotel

Lotte Cinema

Hadongkwan

Osulloc Tee house

Seoul Royal Hotel

Starbucks

Myeong-dong Donkatsu

Olive young

Myeong-dong Shinhan Bank Burger King Theater

Lotte Young Plaza

Nanta Theater CGV

Jhill Hotel

Police Eight Stn. SEconds

Andong Jjimdak Myeong-dong Catholic church

Olive young

Frisbee

Levis

Chinese Embassy

Lacoste Dunkin Donuts

Vips

Hamheung Myeonok

Myeong-dong Kyoja Seoul lobal Culture & Tourism Center

Kyesung Girlsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;High School

Nike Town Forever 21 American A-land apparel

New Balance

CROCS GS25 cvs

Savoy Hotel

Starbucks

NineTree Hotel Shinhan Bank

Quicksilver & Roxi

CGV

UNICLO

UNICLO Migliore

R1 Myeongdong Kyoja Korean D3 With more than 40 years of history, Myeongdong Kyoja has been loved by the locals for many years. The restaurant is popular for its Kalguksu, a Korean noodle dish that serves handmade noodles and other ingredients in a bowl of thick chicken broth. The mini dumpling toppings add a zesty touch while the crazy chili kimchi gives you garlic breath that may be hellish for your companion, but well worth it. The pork dumplings are also highly recommended. R2 Myeongdong Donkatsu Korean B2 Opened in 1983, this restaurant serves delicious donkatsu (Japanese pork cutlet). The secret is in aging thick slices of seasoned pork fillet (150kg total) for three to four days making the meat tenderer.

The Grand Hotel

Skypark Hotel [III] TOUSlesJOURS

8 7 ng Stn. Myeong-do

R3 Andong Jjimdak Korean D2 Dak means chicken in Korean, and jjim means steamed, stewed or braised in a sauce. Andong Jjimdak, which originated from the city of Andong, is a spicy version that has become enormously popular since late 1990â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s. Braised in a sweet and savory braising liquid, the dish gets its spiciness from dried whole red chili peppers and fresh fiery hot green peppers called Cheongyang gochu. R4 Hadongkwan Korean D2 Opened in 1939, it is the most representative gomtang (traditional Korean soup boiled with beef bone) restaurant in Seoul. With its long history, Hadongkwan provides an authentic taste of gomtang and it only opens its door until 4:30pm.

This is the place where you can experience Korean culture and get information about travelling in Seoul.

HANDICRAFT-MAKING

K-FOOD COOKING

K-DRUM samullori

K-POP DANCE

HANBOK(Korean Traditional Costume)

K-BEAUTY MAKE-UP

Opening Hours 10:30am - 7:30pm open everyday except New Yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Day & Chuseok Email seoulcenter3789@gmail.com

EXIT

Euljiro 1-ga Station

Myeong-dong Tourist Information Center 1F KEB

TEL 02.778.0333

Website www.seoulculturalcenter.com (English support) Facebook www.facebook.com/Seoulcenter3789

Myeong-dong Theater

Tel 02.3789.7961 Address 5th FL, M-Plaza, 27 Myeong-dong 8-gil, Junggu, Seoul

Front gate

Back gate

Seoul lobal Cultural Center

EXIT

Myeong-dong Kyoja

EXIT

Myeong-dong Station

Yeonnam-dong

R1 Yeonnam Blues Restaurant/bar B4 (02) 325-1478 • 150-6 Donggyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul Wines, cocktails, beer or even soju well go with its menu items. Groove recommends Halla tonic (Hallasan soju mixed with tonic) and spicy seafood stew.

Yeonnam-dong Community Service Center

Green House

L2 R6

R3 C2

Geumgang Villa

Dong-jin R7 Marketplace

Air

roa

ail

rt R d

C1 Nakrangparang Cafe C4 (02) 6204-7888 • 148-3 Donggyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul Named after the first café in Korea opened in 1931. Rest your feet at this retrointerior café with a bowl of mango shaved ice. 12 pm – 10 pm. Closed on Mondays

홍어랑탁이랑

Demyung Vivaldi Park Apts. Gyeongam little theater Sambuja Squid Bulgogi

Jin House Yeonnam Police Box

R1 C1 C4

마포곱창타운

R2 Tuk Tuk Noodle Thai Thai D3 070-4407-5130 • 227-37 Yeonnam-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul Thai chef and Thai beer served in Thai interiors and music.

Donggyo-dong Samgeori

L1 Dan Dan Japanese bar C2 (02) 6092-2298 • 228-9 Yeonnam-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul Izakaya serving various menu items at reasonable price starting at 4,000won. 5pm – 3 am. Closed on Tuesdays L2 228-9 Café / bar C2 070-4244-2289 • 228-9 Yeonnam-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul A cozy place to enjoy cocktails and live music. 2pm – 2am R3 Casa di Noa Italian B2 (02) 3142-1108 • 257-8 Yeonnam-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul Homemade Italian cuisine served by an Italian chef owner. R4 달빛부엌 Moonlight kitchen Asian cuisine C2 (02) 322-3559 • 227-13 Yeonnam-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul Thai, Chinese and Japanese dishes cooked with the freshest from market daily. 5:30 pm – 1:30 am. Closed on Sundays

홍대최대포

R7 Assisi Italian D3 070-4114-0736 • 227-6 Yeonnam-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul Almost as if you’re dining at your friends’. This small but welcoming ambiance is recommended for dining with your friends. / 11:50 am – 11 pm. Closed on Mondays. C2 Viva Brasil Brazilian dessert cafe B2 070-8951-8282 • 255-25 Yeonnam-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul A dessert café serving Brazilian fruit bowl, smoothies and cheese breads. C3 Isim Coffee shop D3 070-4238-5050 • 227-5 Yeonnam-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul Just when you think you know about coffee, the barista owner will extend your knowledge. Just ask. You won’t regret C4 Tomi’s bakery Bakery C4 (02) 333-0608 • 148-4 Donggyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul A local bakery opened by a Japanese patissier Tomigawa. Vietnamese coffee is recommended to go with its breads. / 10 am – 9 pm

L3 Sisili Soju bar D2 (02) 334-8117 • 227-15 Yeonnam-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul Groove editors’ favorite spot. Seafood grilled or raw, beef grilled or raw and Hallasan soju. Soju lovers’ haven for sleepless nights. 6 pm – 5 am R6 대만야시장 Taiwanese Night Market Taiwanese restaurant C2 (02) 322-3058 • 227-20 Yeonnam-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul Various Taiwanese dumplings, Paux mama, fried chicken/prawn/port/squid starting at 5,000won. The best spot for late night snacks in the area. 9 am – 2 am R5 Himeji Japanese curry D2 010-4743-1055 • 227-15 Yeonnam-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul Homemade curry at less than 5,500won. Its menu curry noodle is strongly recommended to first time visitors.

Subway map

Horoscope

April 2015

Gem i n i May 22 - June 21 A q u a r i u s January 20 - February 18

Not dealing with a problem won’t make it go away. It will only get worse. Face it head on and work to fix it. A disappointment later in the month will prove to be a blessing in disguise. You’ll feel that fate probably had something to do with it. A surprise comes through the mail.

ARI ES

March 20 - April 20

A misunderstanding between you and a family member could turn into a full-blown fight if you’re not careful. Explain yourself and make your intentions clear. If you’ve been feeling frustrated lately, you may want to take a closer look at your diet.

P i s ces February 19 - March 19

Instead of trying to relieve the symptoms of an ongoing problem, you’d be better off looking for a permanent cure. Try to give a loved one extra space if (s)he is in a crabby mood. This applies especially for the introspective Cancer. Beware of a Leo with bad intentions.

With all the changes you’ve been going through lately, you’ll be happy to find this to be a slow-paced month. A Taurus coworker may be the source of aggravation – especially if you’re in a management position. News of an engagement adds a bright note to the month.

C a n cer June 22 - July 22

You may have to do everything short of standing on your head if you want to cheer up a downand-out friend. Make the effort. It will go a very long way. A tough decision midmonth will take up much of your thoughts. Trust your instincts rather than logic to help you choose.

Ta u r u s April 21 - May 21

Reaching for the unreachable will only lead to disappointment. Sure, set your sights high, but keep in mind that there are some things in life you just can’t have! A change in the workplace may be a hard adjustment at first. But creative thinking will turn things to your favor.

Le o July 23 - August 23

Opportunity will come your way when you least expect it and you could find yourself in the express lane to success! Just remember, be sure to dress your best. A friend who’s moved away will move back into your area. Another reason to celebrate!

Vi r g o August 24 - September 23

L ib r a

Sco r p i o

S a g i t ta r i u s

Capricorn

An improvement in your work situation gives you reason to smile early in the month. You’ll feel a great weight off your shoulders. In matters of romance, too, there are happy times ahead. If traveling this month, be sure you’re packed in advance. Otherwise you could forget something important.

Tackle a large project with full force. Taking a half-hearted approach will only make things drag on. Use your Libran tenacity to get things done. A loved one’s kindness will give you reason to smile. A Cancer plays a major role this month. Romance looks promising.

A new Libra friend gives you valuable insight into a troubling situation. You’ll realize that there’s more than one way to skin a cat. If you’ve been feeling worn out lately, you may want to take note of your sleeping habits. Are you getting enough? If not, catch up on those zzz’s!

If you’re working on an important project now, be sure to stay focused on the job at hand. Letting little things distract you will only prolong the inevitable. Watch for investment opportunities later in the month. You could stumble upon a diamond in the rough.

What you think of as harmless teasing may come off as offensive or even hurtful to someone who doesn’t appreciate your sense of humor. Be especially cautious if you’re dealing with an extra-sensitive Pisces. Take the lead when planning a special event. Your creativity will add a lot.

September 24 - October 23

October 24 - November 22

November 23 - December 21

December 22 - January 19