October 2015 Groove Magazine Korea by Groove Korea

G roove G oes Back To The Futur e th Come to our 9 Anni v er sa ry Pa rt y

KOREA • Issue 108 / October 2015

HIgh Season:

Raising Koh Kood Expectations

The Return Of HBC Fest

From Apathy to Empathy? The uneven progress of Korea’s animal protection movement

Oak Tree Project Run: Racing Toward Scholarships

Which Brew is the TRUE YOU ? Take Our

Beer Personality Quiz !

Salut ing

The HiddenCraft Cirque Du Soleil say ‘Au Revoir’ to Quidam

Above the Rim with the SK Knights

Goes Back To The Future

r u o o t Come y t r a P y r a s th Anniver 9

Fancy Dress (any Back To The Future time) / Music Through The Decades / Charity Raffle Contributor's Corner / Mine In Nine and much, much more!

Oct. 22 7:28pm

1st round Platinum Beer Pub

345-24 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul Hongik Station (Line 2, exit 9)

2nd round Freebird

408-17 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

KRW 15,000

all-you-can-drink beer and snacks

KRW 20,000

all-you-can-drink beer and snacks and Entry to Freebird

Editorial

October 2015

ettling into the blessedly cooler Fall season, one might think there is no better way to relax than to sit down with a copy of Groove and a cold beer. With that in mind, we offer you the low-down on some of the best brews, breweries and bars in which to sample what is becoming one of the best things about Seoul. As Rob Thom takes a closer look at Platinum Brewery and Naheen Madarbakus-Ring scouts out some of the best places to sample a few pints, Liam Ring looks at some of the smaller companies making waves (and bubbles) in the industry. Our food section also goes for beer this month as Charlotte Hammond and Andy Hume search out the perfect nosh to go with your tipple (that’s food with beer). On a more sober point, Korea is not always the best place to be four-legged, and Eileen Cahill goes in-depth to discover the more unpleasant side of this country’s relationship with anything considered not cute and

C O V E R O n t h e

October 2015

Cover photo courtesy of Platinum Beer Cover design by Seong-eun Park For all connoisseurs of beer this month we offer a fantastic guide to some of the best Craft beer that Seoul can offer. Delve into a craft beer adventure with Platinum who offer a range of five crafts, a fully functioning brewery and a beer pub venue to enjoy the best that Seoul has to offer.

furry in Insight’s report this month. In travel, It’s all-Thailand this October as Barbara Bierbrauer goes island-hopping and Naheen Madarbakus-Ring takes a relatively slow train from Bangkok to Chang Mai before checking out one of the newest five star resorts on the island of Koh Kood. We get ready for Halloween with a choice of Zombie walks and Ghost tours or for a little culture, hit the festival circuit with the Jarasum Jazz Festival, HBC Fest or the Busan International Film Festival, (or get back to the tipple with the traditional and magical Makgeoli Festival). Sports visit the Seoul Gaels as the club prepares for the Asian Gaelic Games, while the Itaewon Pool League gears up for the second half of the season. Just want to watch or listen? SK Knights have a new basketball season starting up at Jamsil while 48 Shades of Football introduce us to their weekly K-League podcasts. So sit back, order a craft beer and take some time to go through this month’s issue. Enjoy!

ISSUE

108

O C TO B ER 2015

What’ s in thi s iss ue 04

EDITORIAL

Key People Meet Groove’s editorial team and a few of our talented contributors

What's on Festivals, concerts, happy hours, networking and events for every day of the month

The News Itaewon murder suspect back in Korea / ‘Arirang’ recognized as a Korean national treasure / Unfaithful spouses denied divorce rights

Community 20

The 2015 Makgeolli Festival at Jarusam The Makgeolli Festival has moved to Jarusam with more contests, tastings and brews than ever before

www.groovekorea.com October 2015

Unearthing The Hidden Treasures of Korea Get involved with this month’s Oak Tree run, helping the Oak Tree Project fund university scholarships for Korean orphans

The Walking dead of seoul / Seoul Players Enter The Time Warp For one night only (and without any questions asked), be a member of The Walking Dead at the 4th annual Zombie Walk

Tales from the Dark Side of Seoul Seoul has its own ghost storys to tell on this walk around the city

The Literary Collection The country’s pride and joy, Hanguel, celebrates with its own national holiday on the 9th and a selection of literary-related museum treats for one to enjoy

Varyd Style Rydia Kim shares her fashion vision just Around The Corner

Insight 30

From Apathy to Empathy? The uneven progress of Korea’s animal protection movement

FOOD&DRINK 38

La Planque An authentic quaint French bistro with decent prices

Mikkeller Bar Seoul’s world class beer bar has arrived.

THE Barrel Roll A bold fall cocktail featuring a mocha stout Han Tang Fish Soup Hearty seafood stew in the heart of Itaewon.

Gwangalli Beach Craft Scene is

Making Waves Busan’s Gwangalli Beach is a craft beer hub on the rise.

Critics’ Corner: Two Groove Critics Share Suggested Beer Pairings According to Their Tastes Two Groove critics pair beer with local food.

Pairing Beer and Food: A Crash Course Pairing food and beer: a beginners guide.

Take Groove’s Beer Personality Quiz! A highly unscientific personality quiz.

CRAFT BEER SPECIAL 46

The Platinum Collection A Platinum insight into craft beers

The Craft Beer Compass a craft beer place is only stone’s throw away, whatever part of the city you are in

Brewing it right a local craft brewery doing it the right way

Searching For The Hidden Track up and coming brewmaster steers Seongbuk taphouse to the mainstream track

“I don’t want to drink anything boring.” adding a different brew to craft beers

ISSUE

108

O C TO B ER 2015

What’ s in thi s iss ue

Entertainment 54

Jarasum’s Jazz-tastic! Jarasam brings their flavor of Jazz to Turtle Island this Fall

The Return 0f HBC Fest Free Live Music Invades Haebangchon This October

K-Film: Three By…Investigation K-Film goes all detective this month with a Three By Investigation selection

www.groovekorea.com October 2015

Watch this space Director/Producer Jake J Smith gives Groove Korea an exclusive insight into his journey into completing feature-length debut While They Watched

Busan International Film Festival Celebrates 20th Anniversary in Style The Busan International Film Festival (BIFF) celebrates its twentieth anniversary with a highly entertaining movie program to suit all tastes

Quidam Antics under the Big Top The circus is in town with the weird, wonderful and wacky Canadian-based troupe Cirque Du Soleil bringing their impressive theatrics to Seoul on the last world tour of Quidam

Travel 68

High Seasonal Expectations Enjoy a little luxury on the quieter island of Koh Kood as the High Season provides a five star service for all your relaxation needs

The (Thai) Orient Express When in Thailand, take the train to travel around the country with a distinct East Asian style

The three sister isles With so many to choose from, Thailand’s three main islands may be some top contenders for that next vacation

Sports 74

SK Knights Prepare For The Mobis Challenge Heading indoors for the Winter

Young And Old Turning Out For The Seoul Gaels Bringing Gaelic Games to the peninsula

48 Grounds, 3 Men, 1 Podcast, No Rounders 1 podcast with all your K-League needs

Racking Up With the Itaewon Pool League Big Breaks across Itaewon

A Touchdown Against The Odds Korea University Tiger’s Assistant Coach talks American football on the peninsula

Groove listings

Maps

Andy Hume comes from Glasgow,

KEY

Scotland. He has been living in Korea since 2009, mostly using the opportunity to eat and drink his way around Asia. When not eating or drinking beer, Andy teaches in Seoul, and coaches debate at Ewha University and for the Korean national team. He likes to introduce Korean friends to the best foreign food in Seoul – and vice versa – at his blog, sojusunrise.com

KOREA 5 floor, Shinwoo Bldg. 5-7 Yongsan 3-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul, Korea. th

Contact info (010) 5348-0212 / (02) 6925-5057 Advertising ads@groovekorea.com General inquiries info@groovekorea.com E DITORIAL DireCtor

naheen madarbakus naheen@groovekorea.com

Barbara Bierbrauer works as a

journalist and is a board member of the Songdo International Dog Club — that she founded — while raising two kids and two dogs. She holds a masters degree in political sciences and used to work as an executive headhunter in Germany. When not working, she enjoys running half marathons, training her dogs and practicing for triathlons

E DITORIAL

Community Insight FOOD & DRINK ENTERTAINMENT MUSIC TRAVEL SPORTS

naheen madarbakus naheen@groovekorea.com anita mckay anita@groovekorea.com joe mcpherson food@groovekorea.com naheen madarbakus naheen@groovekorea.com chance dorland chancedorland@gmail.com naheen madarbakus naheen@groovekorea.com liam ring liam@groovekorea.com Cop y E d itors

gil coombe, celeste maturen

Eileen Cahill

lives in Seoul with her three cats Phoenix, Gemma and Jellybean and her elderly dog, Bangsiri. She has more than 10 years’ experience in writing and editing and is also a longtime animal advocate.

Craig Stuart is a Scottish painter and illustrator residing in Cape Town, South Africa. Since graduating from Glasgow School of Art in 1995, he has been producing artwork in some shape or form. His work draws inspiration from the rugged beauty of Scotland, as well as the many other countries he has been lucky enough to visit — especially South Korea and New Zealand. You can view his artwork at www.craigrstuart.com A born-and-bred South Carolinian,

Jordan Redmond

Julia Mellor

10 www.groovekorea.com October 2015

is the director of the Makgeolli Mamas and Papas Korea, an organization that provides opportunities for English speakers to discover and experience Korean traditional alcohol. Originally from Brisbane, Australia, Julia enjoys exploring traditional Korean alcohol breweries and tasting and experimenting with various makgeolli brewing techniques and recipes.

has a deep appreciation for all things porcine and has fierce opinions about mustard-based BBQ sauce. Other perennial palate-based pursuits include all things Mexican and Japanese as well as the perfect preparation of various types of caffeinated beverages. You can follow his eating adventures on Instagram: @dwaegukin.

WRITE RS & CONTRIBUTORS

hallie bradley, naomi blenkinsop, simon mcenteggart, jake j. smith, barbara bierbrauer, rob shelley, julia mellor, eileen cahill, anita mckay, myra pearson jordan redmond, andy hume, charlotte hammond, joe mcpherson, robert kienzle, rob shelley simon slater, hannah green, minwoo kim, sk knights seoul gaels, nana kim, d.j. battistella, jae-suk koo seat61.com, high season, cirque du soleil biff, square eyed pictures, platinum hidden track, the hand and malt brewing company high street market, book museum, hanguel museum mmpk, turner hunt,steve sherk craig stuart, chung Jiyoung, hana jin, keum-seok kim ART & DE SI G N

ART DIRECTOR seong-eun park sam@groovekorea.com MARKE TING & AD MINISTRATION

CFO steve seung-jin lee MARKETING DIRECTOR peter chong ACCOUNTING yi-seul oh WE B & MOBIL E

himes design www.himesdesign.com finch professtional services www.finchproservices.com PUBLISHE R

Liam Ring has spent much of the last twelve years living in Japan and Korea, where he has divided his time between watching domestic and late-night EPL action most weekends while trying to get Leyton Orient into the Champions League on Football Manager. An avid Arsenal fan, he also enjoys the occasional tasty craft beverage, a quality meal and reading Haruki Murakami and David Mitchell. Liam is Groove Korea’s Sports editor.

sean choi sean@groovekorea.com

To contribute to Groove Korea, email submissions@groovekorea.com or the appropriate editor. To have Groove Korea delivered to your home or business, email subscribe@groovekorea.com. To contribute to groovekorea, promote an event or share your opinions, please email naheen@groovekorea.com or the appropriate editor. The articles are the sole property of GROOVE MEDIA CO. Ltd. No reproduction is permitted without the express written consent of GROOVE MEDIA CO. Ltd. The opinions expressed in the magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher.

W hat’ s O N MON

TUE

WED

THU

8 1

Games in OCTOBER KBO League game schedule

FRI

SAT

SUN

Seoul Int’l Fireworks Fes t ival @ Han River park (Yeuido zone)

1-2

Great Korean Beer Fes t ival @ Samseong subway station / 8-11

Daegu Int’l Opera Fes t ival Aida <G. Verdi> / 8-10

NC vs LG J a m si l

VS. Hanhwa vs Nexen Mo k d o n g

VS.

Jinju Namgang Yudeung Fes t ival

Doosan vs SK M un hak

Samsung vs KIA G w an g j u

VS.

9-11

KT vs Lotte S a j i k

Jarasum Int’l Jazz Fes t ival

Korea Int’l Ar t Fair ‘KIAF’ @ COEX / 7-11

VS.

Daegu Int’l Opera Fes t ival Lohengrin <W.R. Wagner> / 15 & 17

VS.

Daegu Int’l Opera Fes t ival Rigoletto <G. Verdi> / 21-23

12 www.groovekorea.com October 2015

VS. Samsung vs Nexen Mo k d o n g

VS. NC vs SK Mu n hak

VS. Doosan vs KIA G w an g j u

NC vs SK M un h a k

VS.

VS. Hanhwa vs KT S u w o n

KT vs Samsung Da e g u

Itaewon Global Village Fes t ival 2015 @ COEX / 17-18

VS. Doosan vs KIA G w an g j u

K League schedule

K League Challenge

K League Classic

Seongnam FC vs Incheon Utd / Tancheon

FC Seoul vs Jeonnam Dragons / Seoul

Seoul E-Land vs Chungju Hummel FC / Jamsil

Gwangju FC vs Suwon Bluewings / Gwangju

Jeju Utd vs Jeonbuk FC / Jeju

Pohang Steelers vs Busan IPark / Pohang

schedules for Jamsil, Suwon, Ansan, Anyang and Bucheon games only Bucheon FC vs Gyongnam FC / Bucheon FC Anyang vs Seoul E-Land / Anyang

2015 Gwanghwanmun Int’l Ar t Fes t ival ‘GIAF’ @ Sejong Art Center, Gwanghwamun plaza and Seoul City Hall / Oct. 21- Nov. 3

11t h Busan Fireworks Fes t ival @ Gwangalli beach Busan / 23-24

Suwon FC vs Ansan Police FC / Suwon Seoul E-Land vs Goyang Hi FC / Jamsil

Bucheon FC vs Gangwon FC / Bucheon

Daegu Int’l Opera Fes t ival Les Pecheurs de Perles <G. Bizet> / 30 & 31

Seoul E-Land vs Suwon FC / Jamsil

Ansan Police FC v Gyongnam FC / Ansan

T he Walk

Lotte vs LG J am s i l

Lotte vs Nexen M o k d o n g

2015 Beauty EXPO Korea @ COEX / 15-17

VS.

Hanhwa vs LG J a ms i l

VS.

Zandari Fes ta 2-4 @ Hongdae

VS.

Hongdae LIVE CLUB day!

FC Anyang vs Sangju Sangmu FC / Anyang

FC Anyang vs Chungju Hummel FC / Anyang

Suwon FC vs Daegu FC / Suwon Seoul E-Land vs Bucheon FC / Jamsil

Bucheon FC vs FC Anyang / Bucheon

schedules for Seoul,

Daejeon Citizen vs Ulsan Hyundai / Daejeon

N ati onal New s

All stories are culled with consent from Korea JoongAng Daily’s website and edited by Groove Korea for length and clarity. The opinions expressed here do not necessarily represent those of Groove Korea. — Ed.

In association with

This is the place where you can experience Korean culture and get information about travelling in Seoul.

October 2015 / www.koreajoongangdaily.com

Itaewon murder

suspect back in Korea weekend DIY

K-FOOD COOKING

K-POP Dance Class

Haechi Hall event

HANBOK (Korean Traditional Costume)

Korean Painting class

Email seoulcenter3789@gmail.com

EXIT

Euljiro 1-ga Station

Website www.seoulculturalcenter.com (English support) Facebook www.facebook.com/Seoulcenter3789

Myeong-dong Tourist Information Center

10 min. walk

Opening Hours 10:30am - 7:30pm open everyday except New Year’s Day & Chuseok

Myeong-dong Theater

Tel 02.3789.7961 Address 5th FL, M-Plaza, 27 Myeong-dong 8-gil, Junggu, Seoul 5 min. walk

Day in 1998. In 1999, Patterson left Korea, taking advantage of the prosecution’s failure to extend a ban on him leaving the country. It was after the success of the 2009 film “The Case of the Itaewon Homicide,” which prompted public outcry for punishment for the crime suspect, along with complaints from Cho’s family, that the Ministry of Justice reopened the case and requested Patterson’s extradition in 2010. The statute of limitations for the case was set to expire in April 2012, 15 years after the murder, so the prosecutors took action to indict Patterson before the date came. Prosecutors cited new evidence that they claimed could prove Patterson was actually the murderer. They said bloodstain pattern analysis technology that was not available in the initial investigation had been used to analyze blood patterns at the scene of the crime. In addition, prosecutors gathered additional testimony implicating Patterson, including his alleged admission of the murder to a friend. Patterson was arrested by U.S. authorities in May 2011, though he was able to delay his extradition to South Korea by submitting multiple habeas corpus petitions. Prosecutors now have to prove the murder charge, and time is against them. The police officer in charge of the case, who would be a key witness, died in an accident. One piece of evidence is a case report by the Crime Investigation Command of the U.S. Forces Korea, which conducted the initial investigation. It stated that Patterson was more likely the killer. The Supreme Court also pointed out that some of Patterson’s statements did not match the situation at the crime scene. Cho’s family welcomed the fact that the suspect is back for a trial. “We’ve prayed every day that Patterson is caught,” a relative of the victim said. “We are so relieved that the trial is to be held soon.”

EXIT

5 min. walk

14 www.groovekorea.com October 2015

he key suspect to the two men and was murdered randomly. in the notorious Both said the other had done the stabbing. The prosecution prosecuted Lee for murder Burger King murder in Itaewon and Patterson for possessing an illegal weapon, in 1997 was re- the knife used for the murder, and attempting turned to Korea to destroy evidence by throwing away the knife. on September 23 A forensic report said it was likely that the murafter being ex- derer was taller than the victim given the knife tradited from the United States. Arthur John Patterson, a 36-year-old American citizen, arrived at Incheon International Airport in handcuffs and escorted by investigators, 16 years after he fled to the United States. Patterson denied that he was responsible for the fatal stabbing of 22-year-old college student Cho Jung-pil on April 3, 1997, in a men’s room of a Burger King in Itaewon. “[For the] family of the victim, it’s not right that they have to keep going through this pain over and over,” Patterson said. “But it’s not right that I’m here, either. “I’m still shocked that I’m even here, and I’m still overwhelmed right now.” When asked who killed Cho, Patterson answered, “The same person I’ve always known as the killer.” Arthur John Patterson, He was immediately taken to Seoul Detention the key suspect in the so-called Itaewon homicide Center. case, arrives at Incheon The prosecution now believes Patterson killed International Airport on Cho with a knife in the men’s room of the fastWednesday, 16 years after food restaurant in Itaewon, the current site of he fled to the United States. By Shin In-seop an Olive Young store across the street from the Hamilton Hotel. Patterson was 18 at the time of the murder and the son of a U.S. Forces Korea civilian employee and a Korean mother. Cho wounds on the victim’s neck. Lee was taller was found dead after being stabbed nine times than Cho and Patterson was not. Lee was convicted, but the Supreme Court in his neck and chest. But years ago, they thought the killer was quashed the decision in 1998 due to lack of ev18-year-old Korean-American Edward Lee, idence. Patterson was also convicted of his charges who was studying in Seoul. Patterson and Lee were together at the Burg- and sentenced to 18 months in prison, although er King. The victim was apparently a stranger he was granted a special pardon on Liberation

EXIT

Myeong-dong Station

N ati onal New s

In association with

‘Arirang’ recognized as a Korean national treasure

orea’s most well-known traditional folk song, “Arirang,” finally became an official state treasure, two years and 10 months after it was added to Unesco’s List of Intangible Cultural Heritage. The Cultural Heritage Administration (CHA) announced on September 24 that the song has been designated as Important Intangible Cultural Heritage No. 129 after recent deliberation by the committee for cultural heritage. Intangible cultural heritage refers to things like drama, music, dance and craftsmanship that carry historic, artistic or academic significance. Despite the song - which almost all Koreans can hum - being a “second national anthem” and embodying the sorrow and joy of the Korean people,

the song had not been recognized as a national treasure for all these years. This was mainly because the law stipulates that for something to be an official piece of intangible cultural heritage, there must be an agreed-upon standard version with certain individuals or organizations qualified to perform it. But last year, the Korean government revised the law in order to recognize “Arirang” as a state treasure. Unlike other types of cultural heritage with fixed standards, there are numerous renditions of “Arirang” depending on the region. Experts say there are at least 60 versions of “Arirang” across the Korean Peninsula, and the origin of the song is elusive. Among the most famous are those of Jeongseon County, Gangwon; Jindo County, South Jeolla; and Miryang, South Gyeongsang. In

Unfaithful spouses denied divorce rights

16 www.groovekorea.com October 2015

he Supreme Court on September 15 ruled that the spouse directly responsible for ruining his or her marital relationship is ineligible to file for divorce, in accordance with no-fault regulations. The highest court’s decision upheld the ruling of a lower court, which dismissed a divorce suit brought by a 68-year-old plaintiff against his 66-year-old wife. The names of the two were not disclosed, however, according to court files, the plaintiff wed his wife in 1976 and the couple had three children together. The man then began an extra-marital affair in 1996 with another woman, with whom he had another child. In 2000, the plaintiff moved in with his mistress, though still continued to pay living and education expenses to his original children. He officially filed for divorce in 2011, after he

was diagnosed with kidney disease and his oldest children refused to donate. Among the 13-member panel of judges, six argued that divorce suits should be accepted in cases in which the marital relationship was undeniably ruined, while the remaining seven said it was still too premature to begin accepting divorce suits by unfaithful spouses given the parameters of current laws. However, an unfaithful spouse, the top court added, still has the option to divorce by consent. “In Korea, married couples may break up by filing for divorce but also by consent, which is not a broadly accepted concept in foreign countries,” the judges stated. “In 2014, 77.7 percent of all divorces were consensual.” “Given the situation, it is not considered necessary to see if the actual relationship is shattered, even in trials for divorces for the sake of the plaintiff’s right to pursue his happiness,” they continued.

particular, the Jeongseon version, observers say, is the most lyrical. “This marks the first case in which we didn’t designate a certain person or organization who possesses [the skill to present the song],” said Bang In-a of the CHA’s intangible cultural heritage department. “The ‘Arirang’ that’s now recognized as important intangible cultural heritage includes ... all versions of ‘Arirang’ sung across the country.” She added that different cities and provinces can designate their versions as their own treasures. “Arirang” was added to Unesco’s List of Intangible Cultural Heritage in December 2012, with Unesco officials noting how the song deals with diverse universal themes and how its simple musical and literary composition allows improvisation and singing along.

The judges also pointed out that Korea lacked legal devices to protect the other spouse if such suits were permissible. In countries in which divorces are not based on consent but on the status of the marital relationship, there are regulations in place to protect and support the livelihoods of the couple’s children and the defendant, the judges said. “The Supreme Court cannot fully protect the other spouse only based on precedent [without legislative action],” the panel said. “It may lead the other spouse to make sacrifices for the happiness of the person who actually ruined the relationship.” The judges also said that if the courts were to grant divorces based on the status of a married couple’s relationship, it could appear as though the judiciary was allowing bigamy, especially with adultery decriminalized in February. The ruling was considered a landmark decision, as the lower courts do not have clear guidelines on such suits. The Supreme Court first announced that it would not accept divorce suits from unfaithful spouses in September 1965. It made an exception in the 1980s, allowing divorces when it is objectively clear that a couple is unwilling to maintain the relationship but the other spouse is persisting for retaliation or emotional reasons. Following the change, lower courts granted divorces in some instances, determining the relationship officially ended, though such decisions essentially went against the principles suggested by the Supreme Court.

The 2015 Makgeolli Festival at Jarusam Join in the annual makgeolli festivities with Makgeolli Mamas and Papas Korea (MMPK)

Blue and White Porcelain Making Class

10am-12pm / Cost: KRW 5,000 Itaewon Global Village Center, 5f Hannam Building, 737-37 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-Gu, Seoul 140-893

Korean Calligraphy Class

1.30-3.30pm / Cost: KRW 15,000 Itaewon Global Village Center, 5f Hannam Building, 737-37 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-Gu, Seoul 140-893

Oct 3,4

lsan Makgeolli Festival The Events

Tastings

unning every year on the last Thursday of October since 2011, makgeolli is given its own righteous day. It’s a time when brewers, bar owners and makgeolli lovers alike are able to come together and toast Korea’s favorite rice brew. To celebrate Makgeolli Day, there is always a range of events and festivals, and in particular, the 2015 Makgeolli Festival at Jarasum is a great excuse to get tasting.

Probably the first thing that springs to mind when thinking of makgeolli is of course, the tastings. And as usual, there will be no shortage of tasting the brew at this year’s festival. However, for many drinkers who are not so familiar with makgeolli, all those green and white bottles can start to look the same after a while. Not only will there be unlimited free tastings of makgeolli at the festival, there will also be a special English guided tasting booth hosted by MMPK, where you can get all those burning, need-to-know makgeolli questions answered.

Makgeolli Brewing Experience

One of the best ways to get intimately acquainted with makgeolli is by learning how to brew it yourself. At the festival, there will be an opportunity to take an Introduction to Brewing Makgeolli class, taught by expat instructors from Makgeolli Makers and Susubori Academy. Not only will you learn the science behind the brewing, but participants can also take home their own brewed makgeolli. Classes will be held on the Saturday and Sunday of the festival.

Annual Expat Makgeolli Brewing Contest Tastings

If you’re more inclined to taste than brew, visitors will have the opportunity to sample this year’s Expat Makgeolli Brewing Contest entries. Over the last few years, a strong community of expat brewers of Korean traditional alcohol has been busy experimenting and perfecting their preferred recipes to enter the festival’s prestigious contest. At the festival, ten entrants will present their contest entries for an open tasting and a chance to take home the 2015 contest title.

Over the years, the festival has taken on different forms, and no two years have been the same. If you can stretch your memory back to 2012 and to the pathways of the World Cup Park in Sangam, you may remember the impressively lined scores of tents, each housing a different makgeolli brewer from around the country. Free tastings were had from each booth and the task of getting through the maze of marquees from start to finish (without getting a bit wobbly) became almost impossible. With the fresh fall air, the autumn leaves of the park as a backdrop, and as much makgeolli as your heart desired, this was a recipe for greatness. Fast forward to last year, and the festival was held in the cultural hub of Insadong, with some additional booths scattered across the city. A total of 70 tasting booths could be found for anyone looking to taste and experience a mouthful of makgeolli. As part of the festival, the Susubori Academy Expat Makgeolli Brewer’s Contest was a new addition, allowing members of the expat brewing community to show off their brewing wares to professionals in the industry.

Scavenger Hunt, Prizes and More…

There will be no shortage of things to see and do at the festival, and there will be opportunities to participate in other makgeolli-themed games and events for prizes. Check the website closer to the date for more details.

The 2015 Festival So here we are again. October is fast approaching and so too is the next installment of the Makgeolli Festival. Not to be outdone by previous years, 2015 is set to be the biggest yet, and will be held at the Jarasum Camping Ground. Jarasum has been made famous by the annual Jazz Festival, which will be held the week before this year’s Makgeolli Festival. So what’s in store this year? The organizers of the festival are teaming up with Makgeolli Mamas & Papas Korea (MMPK), Makgeolli Makers, and Susubori Academy to provide some special events for expats including tastings, brewing and competitions.

As the weather gets cooler, there’s nothing better than being out in the fresh air, camping under the stars, with all the makgeolli you could ever want. Venture outdoors for one last alfresco event this fall and make it one to remember with makgeolli.

It’s a time when brewers, bar owners and makgeolli lovers alike are able to come together and toast Korea’s favorite rice brew.

MORE INFO October 29 – Nov 1 2015 Jarasum Camping Grounds Public transport to Jarasum Camping grounds, camping available www.mmpkorea.wordpress.com/ www.facebook.com/mmpkorea mmpkorea@gmail.com To be Confirmed (under KRW 5,000)

Oct 3 and every Saturday

KISS Salsa Classes

7.30pm-8.30pm (beginner) 8.30pm-9.30pm (intermediate) Cost: 10,000 won non-band nights/ 15,000 won band nights SAMOS, Yonsero-5-dakil 22-3, 3rd floor, Chang Cheon-dong Sodemun-gu, Seoul

Oct 4

Stitch n Bitch Meet

2.30pm / Cost: Free De Lambre Coffee Shop Jongno-gu Jongno 2-ga 75-8

Oct 9-11

KOTESOL International Conference & English Expo From 10am Cost: KRW 45,000- KRW100,000 COEX Convention Center, Seoul www.kotesol.org

Oct 13

Korean Cooking Class: Tteokgalbi & Dubujorim

10am-12pm Cost: KRW 12,000 Itaewon Global Village Center, 5f Hannam Building, 737-37 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-Gu, Seoul 140-893

Volunteer Activity: Senior Welfare Center

1pm-2pm / Cost: Free but sign-up prior to the session http://global.seoul.go.kr/Itaewon Itaewon Global Village Center, 5f Hannam Building, 737-37 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-Gu, Seoul 140-893

Oct 15

Volunteer Activity: Young Nak Aenea’s Home

2pm-4pm / Cost: Free but sign-up prior to the session http://global.seoul.go.kr/Itaewon Itaewon Global Village Center, 5f Hannam Building, 737-37 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-Gu, Seoul 140-893

Oct 17

Oak Tree Run

From 9pm / Cost: KRW 33,000 (pre-registered runners), Free to watch / Yeouinaru Han River Park www.oaktreeproject.com for more info Register by October 8 at http://bit.do/OTR2015

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20 www.groovekorea.com October 2015

History

10am-6pm / Cost: Free Ilsan Lake Park, Goyang, Gyeonggi-do www.mmpkorea.wordpress.com/

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

Oct 2

C OMMUNI TY

Story by Julia Mellor / Photos by World Cup Festival by Jay Lim & MMPK, Insadong Festival by Staci Gray

C OMMUNI TY Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

Story by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring and John-Michael Becker / Photos by John-Michael Becker and Oak Tree Project

Oak Tree Project students are usually very distant when they first join the program, having already experienced the rejection of not being raised by their own family. With the only parental figures known being paid social workers who change every few years, students usually arrive with the fear that their mentor will police them or will abandon them, bringing further rejection in their lives. So the students reluctantly endure meetings with their mentors just to receive the living expense scholarship. The Oak Tree Project trains its mentors for this initial tough period of trying to connect with their student. As time passes, the students open up and learn what family is really about: trust, openness, support, discipline, safety, and freedom to be oneself. Students have transformed to become far more confident, see their grades improve and are constantly encouraged by their mentors. Oak Tree Project mentors are all fluent in Korean and committed to being in Korea until their student graduates (between 2-4 years depending on the students’ undergraduate program). All mentors and staff serve strictly as volunteers and must be college graduates themselves with a stable job so they can be an example to their student. Mentors must be Christian and a member of a local church. Mentors are definitely challenged in serving the students, but as time passes they have the great benefit of watching their student grow and develop. Oak Tree Project staff receive written applications and then proceed with an interview with each mentor applicant. After acceptance, all new mentors attend a training session with the staff to fully prepare for the program. Additional training is provided with the staff meeting mentors four times a year to support them and offer counsel. Mentors also are required to fill out online updates after each phone call and monthly meeting with their student, and through the online updates, the staff are able to keep connected with the mentors and offer them any necessary advice.

MMPK Regular Meeting 7pm-9.30pm Cost: KRW 10,000 (deposit towards the bill) Venue: TBC Sign up at mmpkorea@gmail.com

Oct 17

Zombie Walk

From 4pm Cost: Free (except for make-up/clothes) Meet at ChangCheon park in Sinchon near Hyundai department store (facebook.com/zombiewalkseoul for more info)

Oct 17,18

Itaewon Global Village Festival From 12pm / Cost: KRW TBC For further festival information, please visit www. facebook.com/ItaewonGF or call 02-797-7319.

Oct 18

Intro to Brewing Makegeolli Class

1pm-4pm / Cost: KRW 45,000 Susubori Academy, Chungjeongno Sign Up: www.facebook.com/makgeollimakers

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

0ak Tree Project helps Korea’s orphans succeed.

SCHOLARSHIPS AND BEYOND

Oct 17

C OMMUNI TY

Unearthing The Hidden Treasures of Korea

THE MENTORS:

Stitch n Bitch Meet

2.30pm / Cost: Free De Lambre Coffee Shop Jongno-gu Jongno 2-ga 75-8

Oct 23

THE CHARITY:

Imagine working at an orphanage in Korea where after so many years, you have seen the difficulties that the orphans have endured. It’s difficult enough growing up parentless in Korea and although the government offers some kind of support (funding for the homes they are placed in), it’s left up to the private sponsors and the homes themselves to provide decent facilities, food, clothing and supportive staff. Children, aged between elementary and high school senior age, have entered homes for reasons stemming from abuse, abandonment, poverty and neglect. With the government obliged only to help orphans until adulthood, high school graduates find themselves no longer eligible for places in these homes. Thus, these children are left vulnerable, alone and without role models around them. Many become depressed, taking jobs which take advantage of their situation, as employees discriminate against their backgrounds. After leaving the security of their orphanage (at the legal age of 18), the youngsters often fall into prostitution or join gangs, just to make ends meet. College is a struggle as juggling part-time jobs with their studies (to pay for tuition and living expenses) can result in the child being overworked in tandem with the emotional disconnection they experience from their communities, often meaning they give up on their studies – and sometimes on life itself.

Oak Tree Project was started in 2013 by John-Michael Becker and three others to provide students with funds for college and to give each student their own dedicated mentor until they’ve reached college graduation. John-Michael has worked in an orphanage in Seoul since December 2005 and saw much potential in the children he’d been serving. However, their potentials were never achieved due to the lack of encouragement, educational options, and wise counsel available to them. Leaving the home without support or guidance available, many of the children had to make decisions on their own, and would often become aimless or fall into certain struggles. Oak Tree Project serves this void, providing one mentor per student on the program. The mentor’s duties include calling their student once a week and meeting up (face to face) once a month. The mentor is meant to be the family member that the student has never had. Through their encouragement, support, and counsel, the students can find purpose and direction in their lives and truly succeed. Over the years, students have transformed through the mentoring and support of Oak Tree Project. The project’s desire is

22 www.groovekorea.com October 2015

AFTER THE ORPHANGE

OAK TREE PROJECT not to rescue the kids from their struggles and protect them from any harm, but rather to help them through their struggles so that they can overcome difficulties and be an example to their younger brothers and sisters still living in the orphanages. The program started with just four students in 2013 (with one graduating at the end of that year) and added another six in 2014 (joining the three returning students). In 2015, eleven new students joined the returning eight in the program. Oak Tree Project plans to bring the total scholarship recipients to 30 students by 2016. The program does not offer full tuition coverage to students, but rather a living expense stipend (KRW 500,000 a month). This scholarship requires its students to achieve a specific GPA and to budget their money. Living expense scholarships mean students no longer have to work part-time jobs during the semester and can instead focus on their studies to get better grades. For orphans in Korea, if they achieve decent enough grades, there are also special scholarships they can receive to cover tuition costs. Oak Tree Project has been able to help propel many students into these scholarships and into a much healthier state of mind.

0ak Tree Project serves this void, providing one mentor per student on the program.

10am-12pm Cost: Free Itaewon Global Village Center, 5f Hannam Building, 737-37 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-Gu, Seoul 140-893

THE EVENT: THE OAK TREE RUN

1.30pm-3.30pm Cost: KRW 20,000 Itaewon Global Village Center, 5f Hannam Building, 737-37 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-Gu, Seoul 140-893

The Oak Tree Project is a charity organization which raises the scholarship money needed for their students through fundraising. One of the biggest fundraisers is their annual Oak Tree Run. This organized race dually raises funds and awareness for the program. Last year alone, 275 people participated and a total $20,000 was collected for the project. This year’s race takes place on Saturday October 17th at Yeouinaru Hangang Park. Open to Koreans and expats, race options include a walk or run of 5k, 10k or half marathon. The route runs from Yeouinaru Park along the Han River toward Gimpo Airport. Race registration costs KRW 33,000 and the full registration fee goes directly to the Oak Tree Project’s scholarships. John-Michael encourages participants to also ask others to sponsor their run to raise more funds for the project. The Oak Tree Project is hoping 1000 runners can help raise the $90,000 needed to provide the scholarships for the current 15 students going into the 2016 program and some of the additional $90,000 required for 15 new students. MORE INFO To join the Oak Tree Run, please register through the Oak Tree Project Facebook page or www.oaktreeproject.com (under the Events tab). Saturday October 17, 2015 Starts at Yeouinaru Han River Park Transport: Yeouinaru Station (Line 5, Exit 2) www.facebook.com/oaktreeproject OTPKorea@gmail.com KRW 33,000 (register by October 8 at http://bit.do/OTR2015) Check out www.oaktreeproject.com for more information

Napkin Art: Clock

Oct 29-NOW

2015 Makgeolli Festival at Jarusam All Day / Cost: KRW 5000 (TBC) Jarusam Camping Ground www.mmpkorea.wordpress.com

Oct 30

Chocolate (Mendiant) Making Class

10am-12pm Cost: KRW 12,000 Itaewon Global Village Center, 5f Hannam Building, 737-37 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-Gu, Seoul 140-893

Natural Soap Making Class

1.30pm-3.30pm Cost: KRW 15,000 Itaewon Global Village Center, 5f Hannam Building, 737-37 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-Gu, Seoul 140-893

Nov 1

Stitch n Bitch Meet

2.30pm / Cost: Free De Lambre Coffee Shop Jongno-gu Jongno 2-ga 75-8

October 2015 www.groovekorea.com 23

THE CHILDREN:

Korean Traditional Percussion Quartet Class

Of Seoul Get in early on the festivities this Halloween

Story by Liam Ring / Photos By Zombie Walk Seoul,, Daniel O Brien, Kimchibite

Where Starts in Changcheon Park, Sinchon bring a similar experience to Seoul. “What I loved about the event,” he remembers, “is how the walk was truly for anyone. You didn’t need to be physically attractive, musically talented or be good at dancing to get involved.” The 2012 event was easy to organize, involving little more than roping some friends and some suitably attired zombie fans - around 70 to be exact - into a walk around Hongdae.

This year’s walk will take about an hour and a half to complete the 2.7 kilometer circuit which will end up at Hongdae Park. However, someone clearly liked what they saw with the event doubling in size for 2013 and attendances have continued to rise ever since with almost two thousand signed up for this year. This year’s walk will take about an hour and a half to complete the 2.7 kilometer circuit which will end up at Hongdae Park before festivities continue at an after-party

When October 17 (at 4pm) Cost Free (extra cost for costumes and make-up) Email minwookim@live.com Facebook facebook.com/zombiewalkseoul

Time Warp Story by Liam Ring Photos by Za’chary Westbrook of Edgebrook Images

Story by Joe McPherson

Welcome to the Game of Thrones in Asia

darkness lurks beneath the Seoul concrete. This bright neon-lit metropolis was borne from a violent scandalous history. Power struggles, of which there were many, regularly ended in bloodshed, right next to where currently stands a Face Shop. If you’ve never looked at Korean history, and I mean the deep stuff, you should grab yourself a book. It’s tumultuous, intriguing and tragic. It’s Game of Thrones in Asia. I personally lead Korea’s only ghost tour, The Dark Side of Seoul (www.koreafoodtours.com), and it covers the ghostly haunts, the massacres and the hidden sex scandals of the city. Here are a few stories to tell.

The Alley of Ashes

ntering its fifth year, the Seoul Player’s shadowcast production of The Rocky Horror Picture Show guarantees that your Halloween will go off with a bang. Boasting a brand new cast (a deliberate ploy as no two casts are ever the same), the show will be directed by Seoul theatrical stalwart Alex Sawyer – who played Riff Raff in a previous production – and promises a special blend of sexiness, outrageousness and schtick. Audience participation is pretty much a must, with all manner of outfits, dances and call backs to keep the pace of the show rollicking along. Christopher Zaczek, who played Brad in last year’s event, recalls how the stage got so packed by audience members last year that “there was barely room to breathe, let alone move.” So slap on your plastic gloves, foundation, corset ... whatever you are into... and get ready to be initiated.

When Friday, Oct 30 (10pm), Saturday October 31 (9pm & midnight) Where Bedrock in Haebangcheon (previously Dracula’s Lounge). Cost KRW10,000 (on door - no reservations). Website www.seoulplayers.org Facebook www.facebook.com/ SeoulPlayers

In the 1500s, a 12-year-old king was on the throne. Unfortunately he had a very ambitious uncle, Prince Suyang. One evening, King Tanjong and his entourage were progressing through an alleyway outside the palaces. Suyang and his men were waiting there in ambush. They struck, and there was a great battle in the streets. Tanjong escaped, but by the end of the battle, there were so many dead that they cowuldn’t count the bodies. The stench was so bad that they ended up burning the area to the ground. After that, the area was known as Jaegol, or the Alley of Ashes. Today, the area is officially called Jae-dong, or the Neighborhood of Ashes.

The Tomb Bridge

The founder of the Joseon dynasty, Yi Seong-gye, had two queens (hey, it’s good to be the king). He was very much in love with his second queen, Sindeok. However, the sons from the first queen didn’t like her so much, mostly because Sindeok kept trying to promote her sons ahead of them to be in line for the throne. Unfortunately, the king’s beloved Sindeok died and he was so broken-hearted that he built an elaborate tomb for her. While the king was in mourning, the prime minister hatched a plot with Sindeok’s sons to assassinate the first queen’s sons. The boys got wind of the plot and made a pre-emptive strike, killing Sindeok’s sons. This became known as First Strife of Princes (a very Game of Thrones name). The king was so distraught that he abdicated the throne and gave it to the first son from his first queen. Later, one of the younger sons, Yi Bang-won, convinced his brother to let him have the throne. Soon after Yi Bang-won took the throne, a flood came through the Cheonggyecheon River, washing out one of the bridges. This man hated Sindeok so much that one of his first acts as king was to dismantle her tomb and use the stones to rebuild the bridge so that people would always walk on top of her grave. It’s still there today. Lovers and tourists continue to obliviously walk on her grave. Most don’t notice the plaques in Korean and English that tell what they’re walking on, even though the plaques demote Sindeok to concubine.

The Bloody Hospital

The second half of the 19th century, when the Joseon dynasty was in decline, witnessed a lot of bloody revolts. One such rebellion was the Gapshin Revolt of 1884. Pro-Japanese collaborators, who wanted the Hermit Kingdom to open up and modernize, tried to strike a coup. This resulted in a three-day battle in the middle of Seoul, mostly in the area between the main palaces, where the yangban aristocracy lived. The powerful and very kick-ass Queen Min was prepared. Sensing this was coming, she secretly requested aid from Qing dynasty China, who sent troops down. When the revolt started, the Chinese troops quelled it. The next year, westerners were first being allowed in Korea. These were mostly diplomats and missionaries. They introduced themselves to King Kojong. The king greeted them but asked them to be patient because they had trouble finding proper housing for them. The king’s advisors reminded him that there were these newly empty houses from officials killed in the Gapshin Revolt. The king was appalled. He didn’t want to insult his guests by housing them in haunted houses. Yet when the westerners saw how cheap those houses were going for, they took them. Missionary doctor Horace B. Allen took over the house that belonged to a Korean official, who was killed along with his family in the revolt. Dr. Allen converted the house into Korea’s first modern hospital, which later became Severance Hospital, which we still have today. In his journals, Dr. Allen recorded that they had to scrub the place down because of all the blood and gore. Two people, who have taken our tour, have said that they saw the ghost of a little girl near the site. This is but one of many stories we tell on The Dark Side of Seoul Tour. It runs every Friday and Saturday until December, when it closes for the winter season. You can sign up at KoreaFoodTours.com. What The Dark Side Of Seoul Tour Where COEX Convention Center, Seoul When Every Friday and Saturday until December (then closed for winter) Cost Dark Side Of Seoul Regular Version: KRW 38,000 (single ticket), KRW 32,000 (group ticket of 4 or more) Extended Version: KRW 43,000 (single ticket), KRW 38,000 (group ticket of 4 or more) Website www.koreafoodtours.com Facebook www.facebook.com/KoreanFood

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24 www.groovekorea.com October 2015

ou don’t need to leave your zombie cravings to episodes of the new Walking Dead season (which premieres on October 11 by the way…) this Fall as for one night only, the zombies are coming to Seoul. If you fancy meeting some like-mindless people or shambling around Hongdae looking the worst for wear, then Changcheon Park in Sinchon next to the Hyundai department store U-plex building - is exactly where you need to be this October 17 for the fourth annual Zombie Walk Seoul. Zombie walks have gradually become a mainstay of Halloween festivities across the world since the turn of the millennium. Some events draw as many as 15,000 participants to them and have even attempted to break the previous numbers of zombie-esque gatherings as recorded in the Guinness Book of World Records. While organizer Minwoo Kim has rather more sober ambitions for this year’s festival, it definitely screams out a ‘more the merrier’ vibe as the Seoul event continues to thrive. Taking inspiration from the Toronto zombie-walk events of 2011, Kim returned from his year’s working holiday determined to

What The Zombie Walk 2015

Tales from Enter The the Dark Side of Seoul Seoul Players

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

Walking

at a yet-to-be-disclosed location in the area. For those who may be cosmetically-challenged (handsome or beautiful at this event), organizers have drafted in the assistance of some on-hand make-up artists who will be available at the starting point for a small fee. Reservations can be made through the Facebook page for make-up artists, who will be working from 3.30pm with appointments available for around one hundred people to spruce up their zombie – or other ghoulish - make-up. Although the official meeting time is 4pm, there will be some time for photos and to meet fellow zombies before the walk starts a little after 5pm. The after party’s venue will also be announced on Facebook nearer the date for the event (and Kim promises that it will be both ghoulish and apocalyptic) with drinks, raffles, and prizes for best male, female and family zombie group. Dress-code is of course “zombie”, although if you’ve always fancied yourself as a Rick Grimes, Michonne (best to leave the real Samurai sword at home though) or even the General that is great too. Indeed all costumes are welcome (in the past people have come as policemen and soldiers) and anyone who wants to just come along and see all the fun is also welcome. So put your best (or worst) glad-rags on and prepare to greet the Halloween season a little early. It promises to be an evening / night of zombie excitement and excess of all things ghoulish...

C OMMUNITY

The

C OMMUNI TY Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

Korea’s newest holiday on October 9, Hanguel Day, gives plenty of reasons to celebrate the national language Story by Naomi Blenkinsop / Photos courtesy of Hanguel Museum and the Book Museum

The revolutionary creation of Hangeul made reading and writing easier and more accessible to common people and women. The Early Printing Museum in Cheongju-si, Chungcheonbuk-do specializes in early Korean printings and displays the development of printing technology over the years. This museum is located at the Heungdeoksa Temple, a symbolic site where Jikji, the world’s oldest existing book, was printed. This book is especially significant since it was printed in 1377, 78 years earlier than Johann Gutenberg’s first printed metal types. Although the museum does not carry the first printed book (it’s currently on display at the National Library of France) a collection of 650 Jikji related artifacts are on exhibit including wooden print books from the Joseon and Goryeo period and a variety of printing tools. The Printing Culture room shows visitors the timeline of printing development in Korea up to the Joseon Dynasty and the Multimedia room holds examples from the Jikji manuscript and other older printings. Head to the simulation room where visitors can try Korean printing with metal types first hand. This museum is definitely a testimony to Korea’s contribution to print media not only in Korea but also internationally. Hangeul Day pays tribute to one of the most ingenious alphabets ever devised, making it a holiday for everyone. Celebrate the day by learning how to read Hangeul, visiting Sejong Village or exploring one of these specialized museums to get a taste of Hangeul’s rich and fascinating contribution to Korean culture and history.

Badugi and Cheol-su (Korean Textbook 1-1) This book is the Korean textbook for first grade, published in 1948 by the Korean government. This book is also the first Korean textbook ever published after the establishment of the Korean government. The textbook portrays a boy named Cheol-su and a girl named Yeong-hi who represent brave citizens of the new Korea after its independence from Japan.

National Hangeul Museum 139, Seobinggo-ro, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Ichon Station (Seoul Subway Line 4 & Jungang Line), Exit 2.Walk straight for about 725m. Bus: 400, 502 www.hangeul.go.kr/main.do Free 02-2124-6200 Tues/Thurs/Fri: 9am-6pm Wed/ Sat: 9am-9pm Sun/ hols: 9am–7pm Samrye Culture and Arts Village 247-1, Whojung-Ri, Samrye-Eup, Wanju, Jeonbuk, Korea www.bookmuseum.co.kr 070-8915-8121 10am-6pm (entry allowed until 5pm) Cheongju Early Printing Museum 713, Jikji-daero, Heungdeok-gu, Cheongju-si, Chungcheongbuk-do 043-269-0556 http://jikjiworld.cheongju.go.kr/ Directions: From Cheongju Bus Terminal: Bus # 691, 692, 693 (Get off at Uncheon-dong Early Printing Museum) Bus # 720, 728, 731, 734 at Express Bus Terminal (Get off at Uncheon-dong Early Printing Museum Admission: [Individuals] Adults KRW 800 / Group KRW 600 * Youths KRW 600 / Group KRW 400 * Children KRW 400 / Group Free

October 2015 www.groovekorea.com 27

26 www.groovekorea.com October 2015

angeul Day, the national holiday held annually on October 9, celebrates the creation of the Korean alphabet by King Sejong and a team of selected scholars in 1443. Prior to the creation of Hangeul, people read Hanja (Chinese characters) which were incredibly difficult to read. As a result, the literacy rate in South Korea was quite low, and learning to read was a costly venture that only a few could afford. The revolutionary creation of Hangeul made reading and writing easier and more accessible to common people and women. However, due to its relative ease, Hangeul was initially not well received and was distrusted by many. Eventually through time, novels, poetry and other written print media forms using the Korean script have become the norm. The creation of Hangeul has helped increase the national literacy rate and become a source of great national and cultural pride for all Koreans. Hangeul Day is a celebration for Koreans and non-Koreans alike. Expats can benefit from the simplicity of learning to read Hangeul, making Korean much more accessible to them. Learn more about the history of Hangeul and Hangeul in print throughout the ages at these three museums.

The Samrye Culture and Arts Village in Wanju, Jeollabuk-do was formerly a rice depot dating from the Japanese Colonial Era. A group of artists and the Wanju District Office transformed this sad reminder of colonialism into a vibrant cultural space to bring life – and hopefully more tourism – to the quiet city of Wanju. This village is now recognized as a cultural heritage site in South Korea with new additions including a book museum, cultural café, book art center, visual media art gallery, furniture museum and design museum. The book museum features Hangeul books collected by Director Park Dae-hoon over a time period of 40 years and gives visitors an opportunity to explore Hangeul books in print and to see how they have evolved. Other selections include cartoon journals by Song Gwang-Yong and renowned textbook illustrations by Kim Tae-Hyeong. Visitors can also take some books home as souvenirs from the Honesty Book Shop. The unmanned second-hand book store marks each book with a suggested donation and asks that visitors taking books leave the contribution on the counter. Over in the Book Art Center, visitors learn how to make their own book and see the technology involved in publishing and printing Hangeul texts in Korea. And once finished exploring the wonders of Hanguel, guests shouldn’t forget to explore the other wonderful facets of the creative cultural village grounds.

Yongbieocheonga <Yongbieocheonga> is the first epic poetry written in Hangeul in 1445. The poetry states the achievements of the six predecessors of King Sejong, records the founding history of Joseon, and wishes for the prosperity of the Joseon dynasty.

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

Collection

Hunminjeongeum Haeryebon <Hunminjeongeum> (or <Hunminjeongeum Haeryebon>) is the explanation book on the Korean written language, Hunminjeongeum, which King Sejong the Great created. The content of <Hunminjeongeum> consists of four subjects: the purpose of creating Hunminjeongeum, the phonetic value, the operation principle, and examples of usage of Hunminjeongeum.

C OMMUNI TY

The Literary

The National Hangeul Museum, conveniently located close to Yongsan in Seoul, actually opened on Hangeul Day on October 9, 2014. This museum showcases artifacts and artwork related to the history of the Korean alphabet in South Korea. The permanent exhibition on the second floor of the museum, “The Footprints of Hangeul”, takes visitors on a trip through Hangeul history with manuscripts and items such as the first Hangeul typewriter on display. Hunminjeongeum (the manuscript written by King Sejong explaining Korean consonants and vowels), is also displayed in chronological sequence to show visitors how Hangeul has changed since its initial inception to what it is today. The special exhibition on the third floor periodically changes and allows visitors to explore different facets of Hangeul related history and the on-site Korean learning center can also teach visitors a 101 lesson about Korean consonants, vowels and correct pronunciation.

C OMMUNITY Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

Bringing diversity and color to your wardrobe

aryd isn’t your typical fashion label. It doesn’t follow trends and that’s not a bad thing. From its patterns to its models this young brand is on a mission to inject more diversity and individuality into the Korean fashion industry. Like its name, the clothes in the latest collection, Vivid Funk, are varied — loud colors, cropped tops and quirky prints. Not wanting to blend in with the crowd, Rydia Kim created this street wear line for men and women who want to “rock it”. “I think Korea has a lot of black and gray, and I know they sell the best, but I really wanted to do shit with mixing colors that is fun, happy and warm and that is really good quality,” said Kim, who founded the label in 2013 with her now ex-business partner, Vanessa Sae-hee Burke. Vivid Funk is Varyd’s second collection, which sees the label move away from print t-shirts to a more confident and fashion-focused style. Kim draws inspiration for her designs from daily life, which are then made a reality by her pattern maker in Dongdaemun. “The tops are focused very much on the unisex idea, but that’s not androgynous … it’s

more super fun and colorful”. While Kim describes Koreans as “stylish” she says Varyd was born out of a frustration with the limited styles available. This lack of choice pushed Kim and her ex-business partner to create a label that allows people to have more fun with fashion rather than focus on what is in fashion. “Ten years ago maybe, there were one or two different styles, but now there’s maybe four or five different styles that are trendy so I feel like it’s still following the trend. Rarely do I see people rocking their own stuff,” she said. Kim isn’t only set on bringing diversity to the clothes people wear; she also wants to create a change in how Korea defines beauty by using models who exude confidence, whatever their shape or size. However, getting Korean models who are comfortable with this has proved to be difficult. “When I find some Korean people that I really want to shoot that have a quote/unquote not so socially acceptable body type, they are very unwilling to shoot with me. So that’s the thing I’m trying to push into, trying to get more Korean body types,” Kim said. While Varyd may be considered a bit loud in what Kim describes as a generally “conservative” Korean fashion industry, she says that a change is coming. “I feel like it’s like a divide right now. There

are people who are more comfortable showing their midriff and more cleavage … I do think people are still conservative in the mass sense, but are venturing more into showing more skin”. Whether this change comes sooner or later, Kim will continue to promote her body-positive message through Varyd: “That variety is a good thing. That we don’t have to become one of the same kind to fit in or be accepted to be considered beautiful. And that having individuality is something really beautiful”.

V a r y d ’ s

28 www.groovekorea.com October 2015

Must have item!

Varyd’s Vivid Funk collection is a great way to stay stylish and warm throughout fall and winter. The standout piece is the hoodie with print sleeves, which is available in black and blue. Whatever the item of clothing, Vivid Funk’s bright colors and unique patterns will instantly update any wardrobe. Hoodies are available from the store, priced KRW 189,000

MORE INFO Varyd is available at Around the Corner in Sinsa. Varyd is affiliated with Disruptive Voices, a community of people who desire, demand, and aim to speak for change and empowerment. 532-5, Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu Subway station: Sinsa station (Line 3, Exit 8) 02-545-5325 www.facebook.com/DisruptiveVoices www.varyd.com

Story by Anita McKay / photos by Hannah Green

Varyd Style

Ten years ago maybe, there were one or two different styles, but now there’s maybe four or five different styles that are trendy so I feel like it’s still following the trend. Rarely do I see people rocking their own stuff.

I N S I G H T Edited by Anita McKay (anita@groovekorea.com)

Edited by Anita McKay (anita@groovekorea.com)

The uneven progress of Korea’s animal protection movement Story by Eileen Cahill, with additional reporting by Chung Jiyoung and Hana Jin Photos by Turner Hunt / Illustration by Craig Stuart

he dog, a Jindo mix, was behind a low wall near a temple. First, the monk walked past the wall, drunkenly yelling at the dog. Then he came back with an axe. Angry with the dog for barking too much, the monk brought the axe down on the animal’s head. His crime was captured on CCTV. Yet the monk’s demeanor was perfectly normal when he spoke with AJ Garcia and Soyoun Park over lunch a few weeks later. They talked about Buddhism. Park is founder and president of Coexistence of Animal Rights on Earth. Garcia, her husband, was CARE’s director of investigations and international affairs for several years and now heads its U.S. affiliate. But on that day in 2012, the monk believed Garcia was a tourist with an in-

Crimes of intent: a weakness in the law terest in Buddhism. “Then my wife came out with it, saying, ‘Listen, this is why we’re here,” Garcia told Groove. “We’re here because you are responsible for this dog’s death. And you need to come to the police station with us.’” Park and Garcia had already submitted the footage to the local police. “The police went there and said, ‘Oh, he’s not there,’” Garcia told Groove. “And that was it. So we said, ‘Well, are you going to go try and look for him?’” The answer was no. Instead of giving up, Park and Garcia found the monk at the temple where he was staying. They videotaped his confession after confronting him over lunch. “My wife and I brought him to the police station,” Garcia recalled. “We told the police that we’d found him, and we told the police that we were bringing him to the police station. They didn’t like that very much.” The monk was convicted under the Animal Protection Act and went to prison for six months — an exceptionally harsh pen-

alty in Korea, which passed its first animal welfare legislation in 1991 and made extensive revisions in 2007 and 2011. The legislation addresses the treatment of animals in multiple contexts such as transportation, slaughter, vivisection, holding periods for lost pets, and the administration of homeless pet shelters. It addresses the responsibilities of pet guardians. In one section, it sets forth regulations on pet cremation businesses. Most non-institutionalized forms of animal abuse fall under Article 8, “Prohibition of Cruelty to Animals, etc.” Killing animals by hanging or starvation, abandoning animals, killing or injuring animals “without any justifiable grounds,” killing or injuring animals for gambling or entertainment (with a few exceptions), and killing animals in front of members of their own species violate Article 8 and constitute criminal offenses. These offenses and a few others are punishable by as much as a year in prison or a fine as high as 10 million won, but actual prison time is rare — usually, the penalty is a fine or a suspended sentence. Killing animals

to eat, wear, or experiment on do not violate Article 8 because other statutes authorize these activities. But violations routinely go unpunished, according to Garcia, who was born in Venezuela and moved to the United States with his family at age 10. Having worked in the animal protection field in the United States — as an undercover investigator for Mercy for Animals, he got an inside look at the animal agriculture industry — he has harsh words for the Korean system, saying police inaction is the norm and not the exception. Apathy, he said, is the common response from authorities responsible for enforcing cruelty legislation at all levels: police, prosecutors and government officials. Earlier this year, the killing of another dog — Haetari, also a Jindo mix cruelly attacked with an axe — almost went unpunished because the police didn’t think the abuser’s confession constituted strong enough evidence. But charges were laid and the abuser was convicted, Garcia said, after CARE supporters filed online petitions with the police agency. Pressure made a difference.

In 2012, the police drew condemnation when they decided not to pursue a suspect after the widely publicized “Devil Equus” incident. A man driving an Equus was videotaped dragging a beagle behind a car, causing the dog’s death. Many Koreans were outraged, but the police accepted the driver’s claim that it was an accident. In a 2013 blog post on KLawGuru.com, bilingual attorney Kang Ju-won offered a possible explanation for the authorities’ decision. Kang, who writes a blog in English to make Korean legal issues more accessible for non-Koreans, exposed a flaw that makes the Animal Protection Act very difficult to enforce. “Articles 8, 46, and 47 of the Animal Protection Act prohibit/punish only ‘crimes of intent,’” Kang wrote in his blog post. “In Korean criminal law, a person can be punished for a ‘crime of negligence’ only if/when the law specifically outlines such a crime.” Korea’s Animal Protection Act contains no such provision, Kang explained. “According to reports,” Kang wrote, “the owner of the beagle stated that he had placed the dog in the trunk because the dog’s feet smelled of manure, and he did not want to dirty the inside of his car.

The man also said he had deliberately left the trunk open because he feared the dog would suffocate. The man asserted he had no idea the dog had jumped out of the trunk (and was being dragged). In his mind, the man had made sure the dog could not jump out of the trunk.” When Groove asked Kang to elaborate, he conceded that a conviction under the Animal Protection Act might not have been impossible. “I think it would have been a toss-up,” he said. To convict the accused man, Kang explained, the prosecution would have had to prove that the Equus driver had foreseen the possibility of the dog being dragged to his death but was “OK” with it — and that would have been very difficult, for the same reason it is difficult to prove a doctor botched an operation on purpose. “I cannot imagine a doctor being ‘OK’ with a botched operation if he/she had a choice,” Kang said. In the Devil Equus case, Kang speculated that the accused man might have transported dogs in the same manner on many other occasions and been lucky. “Egregious, negligent, and culpable as his actions still were, the court might still have to think long and hard on whether he was ‘OK’ (in his mind) with the outcome,” he said. “In his mind, he might have thought/believed there was no way the dog could jump out. Under the negligence theory, we need not worry about that because we can punish him even if he was ‘not OK’ with what happened.” Kang’s solution: Add a clause to the Animal Protection Act specifically punishing criminal negligence.

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I N S I G H T

From Apathy to Empathy?

Visit to a dog farm The “farm” in Namyangju, Gyeonggi Province, consisted of crude shelters, wire cages raised off the ground, wheelbarrows, and piles of boards. Many dogs were barking and

some were whining. Most were in cages, but two beagles were tied up near the front of the property. They were wagging their tails. Garcia called out to the farmer, but no one answered. “He’s decontaminating food waste,” Garcia said, referring to the presence of an enormous black pot over a fire. It was difficult to hear over the barking, but Garcia said not all dog farmers were this concerned with sanitation — that many just fed food scraps as is. The kitchen waste that people put in yellow bags? “Yes,” said Garcia, who has traveled to dog farms all over Korea as an undercover investigator. “I don’t know where he [the farmer] kills them,” he said, “but he burns the hair off on the other side [of the farm].” Despite wording in Article 8 of the Animal Protection Act making it clear that hanging animals by the neck is an unacceptable method of slaughter, and that it is illegal to kill animals in front of members of their own species, Garcia said these practices are common on dog farms. There is a popular misconception that the industry is “illegal” — that it’s an underground industry like the drug trade — however, no law prohibits either the sale of dog meat or the practice of raising dogs for slaughter. It is more accurate to say the industry is unregulated. Discrepancies in different “livestock” laws fuel misunderstandings. Dogs are classified as livestock under the Livestock Industry Act but not the Livestock Products Sanitary Control Act. Changes to food sanitation laws over the years have confused matters further.

CARE campaigns against the dog meat industry, not because dogs are inherently more special than other animals but because the industry is already unpopular and seems headed for obsolescence. Because CARE is an animal rights organization, vegan advocacy is a central part of its mission. Garcia and Park both live vegan, rejecting the use of all animals for food and clothing, and their 1-year-old daughter is being raised vegan. Yet the NGO is not opposed to compromise when dealing with bureaucrats and decision makers — that’s why it takes part in negotiating changes to the Animal Protec-

“Articles 8, 46, and 47 of the Animal Protection Act prohibit/punish only ‘crimes of intent.’ In Korean criminal law, a person can be punished for a ‘crime of negligence’ only if/when the law specifically outlines such a crime.” – Kang Ju-won, attorney

tion Act every time it comes up for review, knowing that any reforms will fall far short of the results it would like to see. “Our goal is to stop the use of animals for any purpose,” Garcia said. “But because there are industries that are legal, like the farm industry, right? … We have to work together with them to make small changes [on the way to] ending those practices.” In CARE’s eyes, a step forward for dogs might involve a change to the Livestock Industry Act, removing dogs from the list of species that can be raised for consumption. Because the Animal Protection Act prohibits killing animals without justification, such a change could potentially leave dog farmers open to criminal prosecution. Considering the need to placate voters on both sides, Garcia believes the government is unlikely to either criminalize the dog meat industry or regulate it — if it were to happen, however, he would see criminalization as a huge step forward. Critics might say that singling out dogs for special protection is speciesism and therefore inconsistent with CARE’s mission. While acknowledging that a ban on dog meat would be speciesist, Garcia defends CARE’s stance. “I would say you have two choices: Keep all animals on the plate, or — for now, at this moment — save even one animal from being [food]. You choose.” The opposite perspective, one often iterated on message boards for English-speaking expats in Korea, is that the government should regulate the dog meat industry just like other “livestock” industries. According to this worldview, the dog meat industry can and should be made “humane.” Critics who hold this view

say CARE and other Korean animal advocacy groups are behaving inconsistently and that their position is ironic. “First of all,” Garcia responded, “I would just say that regulation is not going to happen.” Regulation, he argued, would legitimize the industry by legally authorizing dog farmers to continue their activities. He believes the Korean people might have accepted such a solution 20, 15 or even 10 years ago, but not today. “It’s not something that South Korea as a country wants to do,” he said. “South Korea does not want to be the first developed nation — the first and only developed nation in the world — to legalize dog meat. It’s just not going to happen. And then I would say, for those people who still want to play with the question, if — IF it’s possible — why not regulate it? I would say this is a hard question to answer.” The question reflects ignorance of the practical realities of enforcing regulations, Garcia argued. “Just because something is regulated in the books doesn’t mean that it actually gets regulated,” he said. “Even now, with other livestock, government officials don’t go to farms. They don’t go to check … slaughtering methods, and they don’t go check on the living conditions of the animals. They don’t check on the environmental impact that the farms are [having] … you know, do they have the proper disposal management equipment or not? They don’t do that.” That was in April. During a follow-up interview in July, Garcia said the Namyangju dog farm was still operating but the excess feces had been cleared away. The two friendly beagles were no longer there.

October 2015 www.groovekorea.com 33

In July 2014, CARE removed about 100 severely neglected dogs from a property in Gwangju, Gyeonggi Province. The situation was so extreme that liquid from the dogs’ body wastes was seeping through the floor into the apartment below. The dogs had to live in a temporary shelter for about two months because there wasn’t enough space at any of CARE’s centers; many of the dogs were so fearful that workers couldn’t touch them. More than a year later, about 50 of the dogs live at CARE’s shelter in Gimpo, Gyeonggi Province. It seems likely that some will be lifelong residents. Animal hoarding is a phenomenon associated with mental illness — cases like this occur throughout the world, and experts have offered different explanations for this bizarre and harmful behavior. Hoarders present significant challenges for law enforcement, social services agencies, and animal protection groups. In Korea, hoarding cases are especially difficult to address under the current legal framework. In the Gwangju case, Garcia said there was no way to prosecute the hoarder under Korea’s Animal Protection Act or to prevent him from acquiring more animals. “He’s back at it with other dogs,” Garcia told Groove in April.

In another case earlier this year, eight or nine puppies were left unattended for five days with no food or water after their lawful “owner” moved away and left them behind. Garcia said the authorities simply refused to exercise the power they already had under the law to remove the puppies and provide temporary shelter. Fortunately, CARE managed to contact the owner and negotiate a voluntary surrender. Part of the blame, Garcia said, lies with the appointment system for government officials, who are “thrown around to different departments” from year to year. In five years, he told Groove, none of the officers he’s dealt with has had any animal-related background or training — unlike the United States, where he said the people in charge of those areas of government tend to be people who make careers out of helping animals. In Korea, he said, “It’s just some random guy who doesn’t even know the Animal Protection Act.” In a statement posted to its website in January, the Ministry of Agriculture, Food and Rural Affairs said it was studying the problems caused by animal hoarders.

I N S I G H T Edited by Anita McKay (anita@groovekorea.com)

Edited by Anita McKay (anita@groovekorea.com)

– AJ Garcia, Coexistence of Animal Rights on Earth

Animal hoarders and how to deal with them

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I N S I G H T

“We told the police that we’d found him, and we told the police that we were bringing him to the police station. They didn’t like that very much.”

Edited by Anita McKay (anita@groovekorea.com)

I N S I G H T

Garcia sometimes suspects that government officials feel less pressure to do their jobs because they know CARE will step in. Its unofficial policing role extends even to the process of monitoring slaughter methods: Garcia has traveled to farms all over Korea where authorities killed animals in mass numbers to stamp out economic threats such as foot-and-mouth disease. “Just like three weeks ago I went to see pigs,” Garcia said in April, “and they were all gassed with CO2.” The Ministry of Agriculture, Food and Rural Affairs deemed it necessary after 30 pigs tested positive for foot-and-mouth disease. Workers put the 2,300 pig bodies in plastic containers and buried them. “You know, CO2 is supposed to be the most painless way,” he said. “But from what I saw it doesn’t seem like that … but at least they’re not burying them alive.” CARE was involved in exposing the cruel methods used to kill animals during the 20102011 outbreaks of avian influenza and foot and mouth disease. Mass live burials had been documented many times over the years but only captured the public’s attention in early 2011, when officials involved in the slaughter publicly admitted it on social media. Millions of animals were reportedly buried alive in late 2010 and early 2011 and many cows were reportedly injected, fully conscious, with a drug that paralyzed their lungs and caused them to die in a state of panic. But now Garcia says the government is

aware of the need to follow a protocol during disease outbreaks — that means killing animals with carbon dioxide in accordance with OIE (World Organization for Animal Health) guidelines. What he witnessed that day in March was the industry’s gold standard for mass slaughter. “I can’t say 100 percent it’s not happening anymore,” he said of live burial. “But the government officials know, and they understand, that burying animals alive is illegal. And that you — they — have to do it the way the manual says. … They know this now.” Garcia said his colleague, Lee Won-bok of the Korea Association for Animal Protection, had been especially active in monitoring the stamping-out incidents. “If he finds out about some outbreak, he’ll call,” Garcia said. “And he’ll call the office in charge of dealing with it and he’ll tell them, ‘You have to do this the way it’s written in the manual. You cannot bury them alive. It’s illegal. … If they don’t have [the right equipment], he’ll come up with ideas of how to make something so that they do it the proper way. So it’s changing. And it’s been a long time coming.” Like Garcia and Park, Lee Won-bok is a longtime vegan who opposes slaughtering animals on principle. Garcia questions what the idealistic, antispeciesist answer would be in a case like this — save a few animals and take them to safety? Any such rescue, small scale or otherwise, seems highly improbable given that stamping out is mandated by law. “Both avian influenza and foot and mouth disease are rampant,” he said. “Rampant. Both, still. Now it’s become like a year-round thing in this country. It’s so bad. It’s so bad.” That interview took place in April. In September, an animal health expert told Groove the diseases were no longer present in Korea but could be expected to return in the winter when wild birds migrate from China and Russia.

Stalled progress on moon bears In Korea and other parts of Asia, “farmed” bears are confined to cages and have bile extracted from their gall bladders through catheters or holes in their abdomens. The liquid is expensive and is widely used in traditional medicines and other products. Although the industry is on the verge of collapse, an estimated 970 bears remain confined in horrible conditions on the nation’s remaining bile farms, according to Gina Moon of moonbears. org. Bear farming has been the focus of international campaigns for years not only because of the extraction process but because the bears are confined to small cages and deprived of the chance to express normal behaviors (such as hibernating in winter). Conditions on bear farms cause extreme physical and psychological suffering. Asiatic black bears (also known as moon bears because of the markings on their chests) belong to an endangered species, and the Ministry of Environment oversees separate wildlife legislation affecting these animals; however, the “milking” of live bears for bile also violates the Animal Protection Act. This creates confusion as to which ministry is responsible for monitoring bear farms and prosecuting violations. Three years ago, when the International Union for Conservation of Nature adopted a resolution advocating that its member states take steps to end bear farming, many animal advocates celebrated. The IUCN World Conservation Congress took place on Jeju Island in 2012, and Korea signed the resolution. At the time, there was talk of the government buying out bear farm-

ers and building a sanctuary for the surviving bears. Talks, however, seem to have stalled and one of the major NGO partners — Green Korea United — seemed to believe the IUCN resolution did not apply in Korea because Korea has no wild population of moon bears. “As for the sanctuary for the surviving bears,” said Hwang In-cheol of Green Korea United in response to an inquiry, “the government is refusing to create it due to budget constraints, and there is a slim chance that the sanctuary will be established. … There is an ongoing discussion regarding measures to buy and protect bears for the purpose of research and education at state-run institutes, but nothing is concrete yet.”

plans every five years to address animal welfare concerns. CARE and other animal protection groups always negotiate for the strongest changes that have a chance of passing; as one might expect, MAFRA also considers the views of their adversaries. As of this writing, MAFRA had posted its plan for the years 2015 to 2019; the 2020 plan had not yet been released to the public and Groove was waiting for an email from a ministry spokesperson concerning its content. The email was submitted to MAFRA on August 28 and a Groove reporter followed up by phone to confirm that the official in charge had received it. The official promised to read the email and get back to us, but said he would not respond if the article included criticism of the government.

Animal welfare in Korea: the authorities’ response

“Five years ago, that wasn’t news”

Groove attempted to contact the National Police Agency for a response to Garcia’s comments. After making several phone calls to the agency and getting no answer, our Korean reporter was transferred to different divisions and finally instructed to request the information in writing. When asked how to file the request, the person in charge promised to get back to Groove but never did. An official with the Ministry of Environment could not immediately be reached for questioning about the surviving moon bears and whether a sanctuary would ever be built. The Ministry of Agriculture, Food and Rural Affairs — the body in charge of updating and enforcing the Animal Protection Act — devises

In February, the JTBC media network broadcast footage showing a man whipping, punching and kicking a 20-year-old horse as the animal struggled to pull a heavy carriage. The driver pulled violently on the reins and the horse collapsed, but the first man (the one standing outside the carriage) continued to beat him while he was on the ground. The abuser was convicted under the Animal Protection Act and fined 2 million won. With CARE’s help, Ggamdol spent his final months at an equestrian center in Namyangju. Sadly, Ggamdol died in August after losing the use of his back legs. But the case succeeded in raising awareness about the cruelty of the carriage horse indus-

try, said Garcia, judging from the response on social media as well as the mainstream media. “Public awareness of the horse carriage issue is at an all-time high,” he said. “That issue got the most media attention out of all the cases we have ever done.” Interest in Ggamdol’s case is part of a trend toward greater interest in animal issues overall, Garcia believes. For example, he sees the dog meat industry dying and the culture changing as the sons and daughters of dog farmers refuse to take over the family business. “Younger kids are not eating dog meat,” he said. “Younger kids are starting to see the importance and the value of animals — maybe not all animals, but dogs and cats.” He mentioned a case CARE dealt with in 2013, when a group of community cats (stray cats under the care of volunteer “cat moms”) were locked in a basement in an apartment complex in southern Seoul. “It’s news,” he said. “Five years ago, that wasn’t news. Who cares about cats? Right? But things are changing. And the Korean farming association, they know this.”

MORE INFO CARE www.careanimalrights.org www.facebook.com/groups/ careexpatvolunteers KARA www.facebook.com/kara.animal Other Resources www.Angel.or.kr.;animal.go.kr (lost and found animals) Rescue.org (adoption listings) moonbears.org

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Humane slaughter: an oxymoron?

Edited by Anita McKay (anita@groovekorea.com)

– AJ Garcia, Coexistence of Animal Rights on Earth

I N S I G H T

“Younger kids are not eating dog meat. Younger kids are starting to see the importance and the value of animals — maybe not all animals, but dogs and cats.”

Story by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring / Photos courtesy of High Street Market

Right Up

Your High Street Market

Familiar boxes of cereals, baking ingredients and packet sauces are all imported to offer expats a supermarket away from home.

Check out the expat export market and some of the new offerings it has in store

The selection of produce has also expanded with more meats, cheeses and products than ever before. HSM is popular for many items but is perhaps better known for their Authentic range of spices. The wire rack filled from top to bottom with spices of every color is reminiscent of any grocery aisle back home. Move over to the refrigerated Authentic deli meat section and over a dozen choices, including loin ham, pastrami, porchetta and in-house smoked maple syrup infused bacon (to name a few) await. Canned goods and popular brands that one may be missing from home are also usually in stock at High Street Market. Familiar boxes of cereals, baking ingredients and packet sauces are all imported to offer expats a supermarket away from home. Kip explains how HSM offers to provide for a wide swath of the expat population and do not discriminate. Searching for special niche items, the market carries food items from all around the world and even has vegan and gluten-free products in store. Another recent addition this year was the kitchen area that now offers fresh bread and cake daily. High Street Market has also added a café area where purchases can be enjoyed in-store or can be wrapped up for take-out. New from this month, HSM has also added a self-serve drinking area offering wine, beer and nitro coffee servings. Customers are now invited to pour their own drink with choices from red and chilled white wine, Heneiken and two types of Craftworks draft beer alongside dark and light nitro brew coffees. Over in the beverage aisle, a plethora of imported beers are also sold

The slogan “by expats for expats” strengthened the quartet’s initial concept further and focused more on improving the lives of expats in Korea

individually, by the six-pack or case and a wall of global wines sits next to a few of the spirits for home consumption. For those seeking home comforts, a selection of household goods - including deodorants, toothpaste, candles and kitchen utensils - endeavour to complete any shopping need of the customers. High Street Market has also successfully developed their online service where all in-store items can be ordered and delivered free nationwide (subject to a minimum order). HSM also delivers sandwiches and can organize outside catering for small and large events, and offer rental of a tent, catering equipment and beer taps for any party needs. With Thanksgiving and Christmas around the corner, HSM is also gearing up for a busy period, providing their usual holiday season full meal offerings. Whether in store or online, choose from turkey, duck, prime rib, pork roast, leg of lamb or ham which are available singly or as a dinner set. Orders can be delivered to any Korean address or picked up from the store and must be ordered at least 3 days in advance. The High Street Market has brought a little home cuisine to our expat lives in Korea. Continuing to source the best items and striving to cater for all those big holidays, HSM has its finger firmly on the grocery store pulse. Whether looking for a ginger ale, a slab of honey roasted ham or a packet of jelly beans, the High Street Market is right up your street for all your culinary needs.

MORE INFO High Street Market is open every day. 2F, 737-24, Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul, Korea Itaewon Station (Line 6, Exit 2). Five minutes walking distance from the station towards Hangangjin Station Open everyday from 10am-9pm 02-790-5450 (shop) / 02-2201-0652 (online) http://highstreet.co.kr hsmonline@authenticgroup.co.kr

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he High Street Market (HSM) sits in its familiar location in the middle of Itaewon-ro, having first opened its doors back in December 2010. Becoming one of the first centrally located stores where shopping for expats under one roof couldn’t get any easier, the High Street Market chain strives to become bigger and better. Five years on and with its own brand coined Authentic, an online ordering service and a café about to open, it seems that HSM cannot do any wrong. Well, people have to eat, don’t they? Kip Richardson is the owner and operator of the successful business. Coined from a simple concept (and bitching session with his three fellow founders - a wine connoisseur, cheese importer, meat expert and professional baker), they wanted to offer all of these foods in one place. Additionally, Kip also questioned the selection of imports from the local marts, which were selling salsa from Denmark and Spaghetti Sauce from the Philippines. Expats could benefit from some better choices, surely. The slogan “by expats for expats” strengthened the quartet’s initial concept further and focused more on improving the lives of expats in Korea. The established second floor location has recently been refurbished, renovating the kitchen to provide a larger area to produce fresh daily specials and its own café with seating for 24 people to eat or meet others.

Story by Joe McPherson / Photos by Peter Kim Photography

An authentic quaint French bistro with decent prices

Edited by Charlotte Hammond (charlotte.hammnd@gmail.com)

Where is it? We have so many Seoul restaurants driven more by trend chasing and fame hunting. I feel like puking these days whenever I see a restaurant bragging how the chef was on MasterChef Korea or received Michelin stars. Chefs don’t get Michelin stars. Restaurants do. Who knows if the chef was actually the one earning the stars or was just the one chopping the carrots? What we need is more passion. Young French chef Anton Lombard exudes it as he cooks for his little bistro La Planque. It’s a space with little seating. The menu constantly changes according to seasonality and the chef’s inspiration. Yet at its heart it is a classic neighborhood French bistro with no pretensions, just quality food made with devotion.

Ambience Food Service Value Score MORE INFO Itaewon-ro 26-gil 26, Yongsan-gu (Itaewon Station, exit 4. Head south and take the first right. Then take the first left. La Planque is on the right, below Maddux Pizzeria.) 070-7719-3010

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Passion.

Edited by Charlotte Hammond (charlotte.hammnd@gmail.com)

La Planque’s strength looks to be seafood and steak. Fresh shrimp come out simple: grilled with onions, scallions and parsley and served with crusty bread to sop up the juices. The cod filet is gently poached and served under a refreshing salsa of roasted peppers, tomatoes and olive oil. Steak is cooked medium rare with potatoes, onions and mushrooms. What shines at La Planque is the service, run by Yeji Pyo. It’s highly attentive, informative and shares that same passion Chef Anton exhibits. The menu is on a blackboard as it regularly shifts. Unless there is something you are dying to try, it’s best to ask Ms. Pyo for her recommendations. She’ll tell you what Chef Anton is excited about and then give you the lowdown on what she personally likes. The La Planque dining experience makes you feel like you’re part of an exclusive circle. The wine list is small but well curated, and wines by the glass are available.You may even feel up to trying a French concoction using absinthe. I was gravely mistaken earlier. La Planque’s strength is definitely the crème brûlée. It deserves to be ranked among the best in Seoul. It meets the challenge of being smooth, silky, custardy. The shell isn’t grainy. It’s that pure smoky caramel that makes shattering it such a pleasure. It’s such a sexy dessert that the Korea Communication Standards Commission would ban pics of it on the Internet. As the weather cools this will be the prime place for a date that won’t break the bank and a nice quiet hangout with a close friend. This isn’t a restaurant. It’s home.

FOOD & DRINK

La Planque

Story and photo by Robbie Nguyen Story by Jordan Redmond / Photos by Steve Sherk

M ik k eller B a r

THE Barrel Roll

Mikkeller Seoul maintains a tap list of 30 beers that are in constant rotation. The list is gloriously and somewhat intimidatingly itemized on a chalkboard above the bar. Mikkeller offers no menu or description for the draft beers. Do your homework or roll the dice. Taking a quick peek at a site like Beer Advocate can cut down on any ordering anxiety. Seeking advice from the dutiful and friendly staff, whose English is sound, should also do the trick. Beers come in two sizes: a standard pint or a flute-like tasting glass, measuring about 1/3 of a normal pint. The latter size invites you to choose your own beer adventure and take some risks. To start, dark beer lovers will want to dive into Mikkeller’s famed Beer Geek series. Taking either an oatmeal or imperial stout as its base, this collection of decadent drafts offers versions aged in bourbon or scotch barrels or that are spiked with espresso. The result is a velvety liquid with a malty character and a bit of whiskey’s signature burn. Sour beers, the recent darling of true rim-sniffing aficionados, are also present and numerous

Edited by Charlotte Hammond (charlotte.hammnd@gmail.com)

as a part of the Spontan series. High alcohol pours include the Spontan Cherry, Black Currant, and Lingonberry varieties. Offerings from like-minded breweries fill out the already dense beer menu. Fellow Danish brewery, To Øl’s newest number trumpets autumn’s arrival. Sai Kaki-Son is a persimmon saison, orange-gold in color and pleasantly yeasty. Also present is Evil Twin’s Yang, an imperial IPA typical of muscular, piney American ales. Not to be forgotten is Mikkeller’s Taedonggang, a collaboration with Seoul’s pizza-and-craft beer empire, The Booth. It’s a highly affordable and drinkable pale ale. Mikkeller entices you to linger and drink seriously, so fortunately the bar also makes an astounding grilled cheese sandwich. The sandwich comes classic (just cheese), or with house-cured bacon. Both are mountainous, prone to substantial cheese ooze. In addition, Mikkeller currently offers a fall special, a pastrami-and-brie sandwich. Mikkeller Bar is the beer temple where you want to be worshipping. The warm, open Scandinavian interior design lends itself to breezy spring meetups as much as wintertime huddling. The bar’s location, a couple of streets off of Garosugil, strangely makes for a more democratic, low-key location than the already craft saturated Itaewon. This is the world class beer bar Seoulites have been waiting for.

Ambience Food Service Value Score

MORE INFO 33 Dosan-Daero 17-gil Gangnam-gu, Seoul 070-4231-4723

75oz Kraken Rum 25oz Apple Juice 25oz Maesil 25oz Simple Syrup

25oz Lime Juice 12oz. Hand & Malt Barrel Aged Mocha Stout 4 Dried Apple Slices(For Garnish)

he Hand & Malt Brewing Company is a domestic brewery crafting unique and consistently delicious beers in Korea. To celebrate the limited release of their Barrel Aged Mocha Stout, which is the first of its kind in Korea, Southside Parlor teamed up for a beer cocktail collaboration. The apple and Maesil are nice fall flavors that complement the coffee notes of the milky and malty Mocha Stout. Cheers and Happy Imbibing!

Han Tang Fish Soup Story and photos by Robert Kienzle

A hidden hansik gem in the heart of Itaewon

taewon dining brings to mind hamburgers, burritos, barbeque and pasta. Fish soup isn’t usually on that list, but it is if you know where to look. Han Tang is a small restaurant serving authentic Korean hot pot soup in Seoul’s decidedly least Korean neighborhood. Situated on the second floor of a former villa apartment, Han Tang serves up daegu tang (cod soup), al tang (fish egg soup), udong tang (fish cake soup), among others. All soup is served with banchan at 6,000 to 8,000 won every day of the week from 10 a.m. to 9

p.m. Each hot pot has large tender strips of cod or bulbs of cod eggs, mellow string mushrooms, seasoning greens and mild peppers mixed in. Soups can be served spicy red or at a mild white, and either way it’s done right, bringing the tastes of the seaside to the heart of Yongsan-gu. The owner and sole restaurant operator, Ruyllok, has been in the fish business for years. He is known to offer up fried shrimp or cuts of raw tuna and assorted other specialty side dishes on a whim. The usual beer, soju and other Korean hard libations are on hand, but Han Tang also offers bottles and shots of Jameson whiskey for those wanting to enjoy a little western flavor at the dinner table. Special bottle requests are available by calling in advance. Itaewon doesn’t need to be famous for Korean fish hot pots, but it’s nice to have a quaint little house serving them up to warm the heart and soul.

MORE INFO 2nd floor, 63-42 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul (Down the alley from Braai Republic and Boiling Crab & Shrimp) 7 days a week, 10am to 9pm 010-7624-2722

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espite laws seemingly designed to do otherwise, Seoul’s craft beer scene is flourishing. Artisinal ales on tap or top notch imported bottles are never too far away. With this wild market upswing and a romantic passion for fine beer, local beer devotees Sunghoo Yang and Heeyoon Kim opened Mikkeller Seoul in June, becoming the fourth international outpost for Denmark’s trendsetting microbrewery. Renowned for its quality and mad-scientist penchant for experimentation, Mikkeller offers Seoul’s rabid beer enthusiasts an incomparable tasting experience.

a barrel-aged mocha stout

Edited by Joe McPherson (food@groovekorea.com) ENTERTAINMENT

FOOD & DRINK

Seoul’s World Class Beer Bar Has Arrived

A bold fall cocktail featuring

Story by Andy Hume and Charlotte Hammond

Story and photos by Rob Shelley

Beer-loving critics match local fare with carefully selected brews Critic: Charlotte Hammond Hails from: Northeastern United States Favorite beer types: Belgian trappist ales, pale ales, reds. Some All-Time Favorite Beers: Duvel, anything by Shipyard, Maloney’s Southie Irish Red Critic: Andy Hume Hails from: Glasgow, Scotland Favorite beer types: Lagers, IPAs, stout. Some All-Time Favorite Beers: Brewdog’s Punk IPA, Corsendonk Pater from Belgium, Guinness

Beef galbijjim

Busan’s craft hub has much to offer brew fiends

hile the craft beer revolution is well underway in Seoul, it might surprise people how much it is spreading to the other corners of South Korea. Led by Galmegi Brewery, one of the country’s finest beer producers, Busan is having its own craft beer revolution. As one of the nation’s top vacation destinations, it is no surprise Busan is dipping its toes into a seaside slice of the craft beer market. Similar to how the Itaewon area served as an incubator for Seoul craft beer experimentation, Busan’s craft scene finds its heartbeat near Gwangalli beach, or “Gwangan” as the area is often called for short. Galmegi leads the craft beer scene in Busan as the first and only North American-style brewpub in the area. Both the Gwangan Ta-

phouse and Galmegi Brewery serve delicious brews in the vicinity of Gwangalli beach. The Galmegi Brewery is gorgeous and offers food that’s as good as the beer. The pizza is a masterpiece, and the beers are all priced between 5,000-7,000 won, a reasonable price for a pint of craft in Korea. I fell in love with the Doljanchi IPA. It’s brewed with special yeast that gives off beautiful peach highlights. For such a strong IPA (9% ABV) it wasn’t too sweet or bitter. Galmegi does a great job of producing clean, drinkable beers. My travel companion tried his first sour beer there — the Hallabang Gose. Most people take time to warm up to sour beer, and some never take to them. However, Galmegi’s sour beer retains subtlety. It lacks the sting that drives many away from the style. Nearby Galmegi’s two locations one can find other great spots for enjoying craft beer. The cozy 6 Pack Taphouse and Bottle Shop offers a wide selection of imports. Their tap list is even better and features highly-regarded Dan-

Spicy beef galbijjim is pretty hard to match with any drink, but its less fiery soy-braised counterpart is perfect with the complementary flavors, and color, of a dark beer. Andy’s pick Stout is the obvious choice; a bowl of salty-sweet galbijjim with carrots and potatoes is the closest Korea has to Irish stew, and Guinness can be found in any convenience store. If you want to kick things up a notch, try to get hold of a dark Belgian Trappist ale like Westmalle Dubbel - or even Tripel – which has the alcohol content to stand up to the soy and garlic in the dish, if your wallet will stand up to the strain of the inflated price these imports command over here.

ish brewery To Øl. Similar to The Tasting Room in Seoul, 6 Pack serves small 200ml samples which allow the customer to sample lots of exotic and sometimes pricey beers without going bankrupt. The Gwangan area also has a homebrew supply shop larger than any in Seoul. The shop is called Craft Brewer, and it offers a brewing area that can be rented out. The space also serves as a bottle shop. The owner offers free samples of his own home brew for customers to taste while they browse. The bottle selection is fairly limited, but still a nice bonus. The Owl & Pussycat have two locations occupying the Gwangan area. Right next to the beach is The Owl and Pussycat Kitchen gastropub. The OPC Kitchen has a wide selection of craft beer on tap and wonderful food in its own right, as well as great views of the Diamond Bridge and ocean. Closer to Galmegi Brewery is the OPC bottle shop which offers a more limited and less exotic selection than 6 Pack. This neighborhood is certainly a place to keep your eye on as craft beer continues to take root all over the country and Busan emerges as another force in the budding Korean beer market.

Samgyeopsal

Fatty roasted pork is crying out for a more flamboyant dance partner than tasteless domestic lager. Any beer with a decent alcohol content will do, but ales and brown beers with nutty or sweet characteristics seem to complement chargrilled meat particularly well. Charlotte’s pick Samgyeopsal is mellow in taste, and its fat tends to soften the flavors of everything it touches. Even kimchi relaxes once it’s sizzled in bacon fat. I’d pick a lightish beer with a good amount of flavor. Craftworks’ Hallasan Golden Ale is one of my favorites in the city. It’s fruity but not without a bite. You have your morning bacon with orange juice, so why not pair a citrus-tinted beer with your “three layer fat” (literal meaning of samgyeopsal)?

Charlotte’s pick Like Andy, I would pick a stout. Stouts really have a way of stepping back and letting the meat stand in the spotlight. There’s so many great stouts out there now, but I think I’d pick Platinum’s Oatmeal Stout. Oatmeal and beef might sound gauche, but I find this stout to be super mellow and Guinness-like, not breakfast-y. To be sure, a Guinness or an Asahi Black would work well, too.

Andy’s pick Try an American amber ale, or a Hobgoblin Dark English Ale, whose chocolate, malty, caramel notes echo the flavors of grilled samgyeopsal almost to perfection. With its dark copper coloring and low carbonation, you can smuggle it into the restaurant and tell the ajumma it’s barley tea. Hey, it might work.

Korean pizza

Dakgalbi

Korean-style pizza is known to be a flavor circus, so beer suggestions are a bit of a gamble here. Standard advice is usually to match the beer to the primary flavor on the pizza, but with so much variety available, why not just go crazy on the wacky toppings and throw caution to the wind? Andy’s pick If your delivery pizza is loaded with sweet potato and cranberries, I’m not sure any beer will save it. A good cold lager or pilsner is a good choice, but if you want to get creative, a red ale like Brewdog’s 5 a.m. Saint goes well with sweet potato, or you could try an amber ale to match the sweetness of the average Korean pizza sauce. Or you could try ordering better pizza. Charlotte’s pick When I think Korean pizza, I think of of the sweet potato ring around the crust. Starch, starch, baby. Oddly enough, it only makes me crave more starch. I crave something tart and antidotal to Korean pizza which tends to be sweet. If your only options are a corner mart, go with Hoegaarden for its infamous sweet-tart flavor. Otherwise, I’d choose Kona Brewing Company’s Longboard Island Lager, which is getting easier and easier to buy in bottle shops around the country. It’s smooth and delicious, an upgrade from the watery national lagers we know and love/hate.

This is where things start to get tricky, as the raw heat of Korean food is what works against complex, flavorful beers and wines alike. In the heyday of their empire, the British shipped pale ale to India loaded with hops to survive the journey and found that it was just the thing to have with spicy Indian cuisine. Though American IPAs don’t taste much like their imperial ancestors, the same principle applies with hot Korean dishes like dakgalbi. Charlotte’s pick Here I would likely stick with an IPA, too, consciously avoiding one too sharp. Indica IPA from Lost Coast Brewery is pervasive around Seoul, and it has no reason not to be. It’s a tameyet-tart and very West Coast-typical IPA. It goes great with spicy food, which I think is why so many of Seoul’s Mexican places offer it. Andy’s pick The citrus notes of an IPA should play nice with the spice in your ood, but be careful. If it’s too bitter, or the chili factor just too high, the beer can intensify the heat to uncomfortable levels. Try Lagunitas IPA, which is a nice mellow India pale ale from California, or go down a different route and try a Hefeweizen from Germany, whose aromatic wheat flavors should be a safer choice.

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Share Suggested Beer Pairings According to Their Tastes

Edited by Joe McPherson (food@groovekorea.com)

Craft Scene is Making Waves

Critics’ Corner: Two Groove Critics

FOOD & DRINK

Gwangalli Beach

Pairing Beer and Food:

Edited by Joe McPherson (food@groovekorea.com)

Story and photos by Andy Hume

Get in touch with the brew inside you. With a whole earthy rainbow of beers out there, how to choose one that fits the real FollowHammond Groove’s highly unscientific questionnaire Storyyou? by Charlotte to find out the beer that best fits your personality. (Full disclosure: it’s very likely that none of these will fit your personality. But personifying beer types is fun!) by Charlotte Hammond

Choose one answer per question and add the number of each lettered response to match the beer type to your personality.

alcohol contents — this is why lager goes so well with sushi or pilsner with leftover chicken from the fridge. Conversely, a bold beer like stout goes with a heartier offering like barbecued beef or a meat stew. It’s no coincidence that restaurants like Linus’ BBQ in Itaewon carry big hitters like Heretic Brewing’s Shallow Grave Porter (7.0% ABV), the better to stand up to a tray of smoky, sweet and sticky ribs. Another principle to bear in mind is that beers can either complement foods or contrast with them. If you must eat a salad, a great accompaniment is the sweet, citrusy taste of Hoegaarden, a beer that’s been available in Korea for years. A delicate Thai curry, meanwhile, matches with an aromatic, hoppy IPA or the clove notes in a German hefeweizen. In the case of a spicy curry, however, tart beers can intensify the chili and lead to a sensory overload. This is where the idea of contrasting flavors kicks in. Something light, cold and fizzy may do a better job of cutting the spice. Similarly, the classic Irish pairing of oysters and stout works well. The sweet shellfish seem to love a silky pint of Guinness. But once again, don’t overdo it — a richer, fuller-bodied American stout may overwhelm the delicate flavor of the seafood. The only way you’ll know for sure is to open a bottle and see for yourself. Korean food presents its own challenges for any beer enthusiast, especially more fiery and unsubtle dishes like dakdoritang or galbijjim. Some people try matching these foods up with IPAs to complement the chili, particularly if it’s a more potent and high-ABV “double” IPA. Others prefer a good pilsner or bock, ice cold from the fridge. Or then again, if you’re like me, maybe you’ll just give in and chug a soju, straight from the bottle. It’s like we said, no-one will judge you.

A. A love story. Well, it was more about revenge, actually. B. A biography of a famous athlete. Or a glam rocker, can’t remember. C. Thick, hardcover, focused on the doomed global economy. D. Dystopian short stories. E. By an old, dead Irish guy.

2. I’m only happy when:

A. It rains. B. TOUCHDOWN!!!!! C. It isn’t healthy to have one’s happiness be contingent on one thing. It’s all about balance. D. I’m experiencing something good. Like art. Or sex. Or beer. E. The bar’s finally emptied out. It’s just me, the bartender, my pint and my thoughts. So, noon.

3. My fad diet of choice is:

A. It’s no coincidence “fad diet” rhymes with “bad diet.” Hard pass. B. Atkins C. I cut gluten in 2011, went paleo in February 2013 and have been low-fruit for about eight weeks now. Feelin’ great, but I still cheat every other weekend. Life’s gotta be lived! D. A diet where you only eat food the color of your mood that day. E. Grapefruit diet. Long story.

4. My relationship status:

A. Turnin’ em, burnin’ em. B. Actively single and down to mingle. Swipe right. ;) C. I’m a relationship girl/guy. I’m a committer. D. My life is a seemingly unending string of Jim/Pam situations. ;( E. On the rebound...for most of this decade.

5. You can sate your sweet tooth by ordering ANYTHING off the dessert menu. At an American chain restaurant. You choose:

A. Those cakes they douse in flaming alcohol. B. That’s tough, but you can’t go wrong with anything “Oreo Madness.” Classic. C. If they have plain cheesecake I’ll take a slice to go and freeze it for a rainy day. D. OBSESSED with salted caramel these days, but always willing to experiment. E. Beer float. It’s not on the menu, you just gotta ask.

Mostly A’s = Wheat Beer You’ve got bite to you. You are lovely and sunny in appearance, but acidic and a little sour on the inside. A cool, German, bristly temperament flows through your veins. Ironically, people tend to want to hang around you. You’re popular despite — or maybe because of — your inscrutably bitter disposition.

Mostly B’s = Pilsner People rely on you and you’re an agreeable creature about town. You seem at home in sports bars. You are eager to please and sometimes more popular than you want to be. Some people might argue you lack substance, but you know what you are and where you fit in. Cheers to confidence.

Mostly C’s = Lager You’re a practical soul. And most people will find you to be simple at first, but in time they will learn of your chameleon ways. People often uncover your tendencies for lightness and for darkness. You are, despite appearances, worldly. You can be smart and sexy and, at the same time, unassuming and modest.

Mostly D’s = Ambers/Reds A little spicy, a little mysterious, a little seductive. People don’t always know what to make of you at first. Some will love you, some will leave you. Not everyone will appreciate your complexities, but that’s on them. Moody with a flair for the dramatic, you thrive in the cold months.

Mostly E’s = Stout Your dark, shuttered exterior might scare people off before they get to know you. You’re surprisingly lucid and smooth on the inside. You’re the friend people turn to when the rain falls hard, figuratively and/or literally, you comfort those slumped in the back of the bar as much as the ones at the front still loosening up. It sounds weird to say, too, but trust me on this: chocolate and coffee taste great with you - er, I mean, for you, they’re good for your...personality type.

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he fine art of matching food and wine has spawned thousands of books, newspaper columns and blog posts, but until a few years ago, the idea of doing the same for beer seemed quixotic at best. It’s an especially new idea in Korea, where craft beer is growing rapidly and beer and food pairing is starting to become a more practical possibility. It’s no wonder that beer pairing is starting to catch up to wine. Top-quality beer is nearly always cheaper than a bottle of wine, giving the adventurous diner more scope for experimentation; if your quirky pairing of Leffe and Korean style “hamburg steak” didn’t go so well, at least you’re not saddled with a 30,000 won bottle of disappointment. Moreover, many people find beer a lot more approachable than wine. Even if you don’t know your porters from your pilsners, beer is more democratic, more demotic. A lot of wines seem to beg for admiration. Beer just wants you to get a move on and drink it. It follows from this that the first rule of matching food with beer is: if you like any given combination, go with it. There’s no “don’t drink red wine with fish” snobbery here. The best beer for any given food is whatever works for you. No one will judge you. If you’re looking for a good place to start, however, some guidelines can be applied. Very broadly speaking, beers fall into three basic categories: light beers, like lagers and pilsners, medium-bodied ales, IPAs and British-style bitters and dark, heavy stouts and porters. You can’t generally go too far wrong matching lighter beers with lighter foods and heavier foods with darker beers. Subtly flavored dishes may be drowned out by more exuberant beers, so try more restrained pale ales with lower

1. The last book I read was:

Edited by Joe McPherson (food@groovekorea.com)

44 www.groovekorea.com October 2015

When it comes to matching food and beer, follow a no-fear philosophy

Personality Quiz!

FOOD & DRINK

A Crash Course

Take Groove’s Beer

The Platinum

Collection Korea’s very first brewery, Platinum, reveals the secrets to their craft beer success

Around the time they started building their brewery in China back in 2010, Platinum found themselves a new brewmaster. “John” Junghoon Yoon is a rather tall man with a deep voice, easy smile, wavy hair, and an undeniable love of beer. He first encountered craft beer while studying in the US, and became so enamored that he enrolled at the UC Davis brewing school where he was classmates with Jeremy Marshell, now the brewmaster at Lagunitas. After graduation, John plied his trade at Pony Express Brewery in Kansas and then in several breweries in Korea before joining the Platinum team. After setting up shop in Korea for the better part of the 2000’s, Platinum had had enough

with the pugilistic Korean tax code that still pummels craft brewers today. So by taking the metaphorical slow boat to China and building a sizable production brewery to import the beer from, the company has managed to avoid Korea’s crazy government. This hasn’t stopped Platinum from keeping up with high international standards. As John explains, “We try to secure the best quality of raw ingredients from the whole world with the high-tech brewing equipment.” Stranger still, Platinum’s brewery was permitted to produce in China but not permitted to sell beer in China. Truly, a kind of bastard brewery was born that might be the first and only of its kind in the world. Despite the craziness, Platinum continued to do what they do best, even if they flew under the radar of some. With craft beer becoming a thriving sub-culture in Seoul, Platinum beers got their brewery running and, after a few years, started to deeply penetrate the Korean craft beer market. Since joining Platinum, John and his beer have both earned an impeccable pedigree with numerous awards and judging credits. “The quality of our beers is already proved by more than ten medals and trophies from many international beer competitions.” This year alone, Platinum has earned accolades at both the Asia Beer Cup in Tokyo and Australian International Beer Awards. John has also judged for international competitions in Europe and Japan, and even given his expertise judging

This might be because, unlike those standards of Korean craft beer, Platinum’s road has taken them on routes via China. Platinum’s main philosophy seems simple, yet is not often duplicated. They wish to serve the best quality beer at the most competitive price. Many craft brewers complicate this philosophy by also trying to brew beer that excites the brewers themselves. That’s great for passionate craft beer fans, but can sometimes prove too novel or advanced for many of the craft beer newbies like those in Korea. Platinum, meanwhile, covers most of the familiar and fundamental styles: pale ale, IPA, stout, weizen, and golden ale. Currently, more than 900 locations serve Platinum beer in Korea. Five years ago, few could expect even a hundred establishments offering craft beer at all. Although Platinum has a beautiful flagship pub in the hip neighborhood of Hongdae, it’s the greater market penetration and its focus on well-rounded, accessible beers that makes Platinum perhaps the most well suited Korean brewery to make a deep impact on domestic beer choices. Despite the tax codes remaining somewhat draconian for small-to-medium scale craft brewers, John points out that the Korean market and its demand for well-crafted pints is there. “[A] brand new craft brewery [has] appeared every single twelve hour[s] in the US now and you can see the popularity of craft beer… all over the world.” Many, and that’s John included, see this trend picking up so much steam that the Korean government will have to take notice. Platinum looks towards a brighter future as changes in the Korean tax code, which helped precipitate the current craft brewery boom, have drawn the company back to Korea. Within the year, they expect to start a major beer production for brewing and packaging in Jeongpyeong. This means Korea can expect to see a big push by Platinum to get its beers into more establishments and maybe even on some convenience store shelves. Regardless of what happens with the bureaucracy, Platinum’s reputation and focus combined with a new Korean brewery should ensure the bright future.

The Platinum Pale Ale, a Gold Medal Winner at the Australian International Beer Awards and Platinum’s most popular beer, is fantastically crafted. Mixing American hops with more moderate German ones, it offers citrus and floral notes while mellowing the bitterness. Moderately strong at 5% alcohol (abv), it is nonetheless an easy-drinking, full-bodied ale perfect for any level of beer lover. For more serious beer drinkers used to the flood of hoppy IPAs available these days, the I.P.A appeals to the more sophisticated palettes. It’s fairly malty, with an almost amber color, and beefed up to 6.8% abv. A complex mix of hops from the US, Germany, and the UK give it a well-rounded and satisfying hoppy finish. However, it’s not chasing customers who believe that pain is pleasure and the bitterer the better. Moderate beer drinkers may still be up for

tackling this beer, which was a Grand Prize Winner at this year’s Korea Drink Awards. The Platinum Oatmeal stout offers a slight variety of the classic dark beer, but remains easy for any beer drinker to enjoy. The oats don’t impart an oatmeal taste, but rather help make the beer smooth and creamy. Like all well-made stouts, this one has nice roasted coffee and dark chocolate notes. At 4.5% abv, this Gold Medal Winner from last year’s Asia Beer Cup is the perfect beer for any neophyte. A fantastic summer beer, the White Ale is light and fruity with a pale body and creamy head. This Belgian Witbier is the kind of style that became very popular during the German brewpub boom. Like a hefeweizen, this beer will be familiar to those who like Hoegaarden or Paulaner. Brewed with Valencia orange peel and coriander seed, this award winning beer weighs in at 5.3% abv. Interestingly, the world’s most popular beer style is missing from Platinum’s line-up. Platinum doesn’t brew the light lager. However, for fans of beers Max, Cass, and Hite, Platinum’s most similar offering is the Korea Drink Awards Grand Prize winning Gold Ale. This beer is made with much better ingredients than those other brands, and will offer a slightly more complex flavors while remaining very clean, crisp, and easy-drinking at 4.8% abv.

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orean craft beer company Platinum has travelled a very unique road these past 13 years. While they have been in Korea since the German-style brewpub boom in 2002, Platinum is perhaps the first Korean brewery to focus on American style craft beer. Yet, although they are perhaps the earliest craft beer pioneers in the country, they remain far more unheralded than Craftworks or Ka-Brew. This might be because, unlike those standards of Korean craft beer, Platinum’s road has taken them on routes via China.

credentials to the home-brewers of Korea in last year’s Fall Throwdown homebrew competition in Itaewon. There are many reasons to try Platinum’s beer selection. Even if you’re not familiar with craft beer, Platinum’s options are perhaps the most competitively priced in all Korea, often costing much less than other imported beers like Guinness or Corona. Furthermore, each beer style is a case study in its own restraint and balance. John doesn’t believe in making flashy beers just for the sake of standing out.

CRAFT BEER SPECIAL

Story by Rob Shelley / Photos courtesy of Platinum

Groove Korea ventures to every corner of the capital to bring a Seoul collection of Craft Beer establishments

N a i rob i Location: Anam Station:

Anam Station: Line 6, Exit 3

Craft Beer: Platinum, Maloneys, Hand & Malt Good for: A Local Experience

Nairobi may only be a year old, but is already establishing itself as a place to meet friends, banter with the locals and experience a number of breweries in just one spot. Opening last October, owner JinSung Park has brought inspiration from his two favorite things, his hometown Nairobi and love of craft beer, to this local tap house. With no less that seven regular brews (two Platinum, three Hand & Malt and two Maloneys) on offer, Nairobi also has five guest beers changing every fortnight to bring brew enthusiasts the best from the keg. Nairobi is nestled in the middle of Korea University’s Anam district, with an un-crowded and spacious main area seating eight groups comfortably and ceiling to floor bay-style doors which open up onto the street to offer patio-esque seating. The fridge is fully stocked with between 50-60 cans and bottle beers of every variety from every country and a big screen is available for some sporting events on request. Snacks include double-fried crispy chips and a small bowl of pretzels, puffs or chips on arrival, although adopting an Australian mindset that welcomes outdoor food if customers prefer to bring their own. Nairobi: The local experience with your favorite independent brewers

Alibi Location: Gangnam Station:

Location: Hongdae Station:

Hongik Station: Line 2, Exit 9

Craft Beer: Platinum Beers

Good for: A Luxury Experience

Alibi is Gangnam certainly oozes that luxurious style with its outdoor seating, elaborate fridge area and an open kitchen in view. The bar has two bars over two floors and with 18 different taps offering a mixture of light lager, weizen and wheat beer, medium flavoured ales and fuller flavoured IPAs, porters and stouts, there’s a brew to suit all tastes. The aligning fridges on the basement level offer a delectable 160 types of international bottles alongside a full pub grub menu with favorites fish and chips, authentic burgers and pizza. Seating for 120 people includes a patio area, which is also available for rental to host year-end company and New Year parties and more intimate seating available in the area downstairs. With chef Lee Jin-ho at the kitchen helm and experienced sommelier Suyeon Lee bringing the ultimate gastropub experience, there’s no reason to mix a little Gangnam-style with the traditional pub experience from back home. Alibi: The luxury pub experience with all your food favorites.

Platinum’s beer house, located in Hongdae, brings all the European fantasy of a pub to the middle of Seoul. From the European style décor of the pub’s exterior, the theme continues over the three floor establishment and even boasts a roof for special occasions. The first thing to note is the symbolic first keg that the brewery produced which sits above the door of the pub. Add to that the French-style windows that look out over the quiet alleyway of its entrance and any customer will see Platinum’s inviting retreat to escape the Hongdae Hub, just a couple of streets parallel. Platinum Beer Pub has all five of the brewery’s main tipples on tap and offers a fully fledged beer menu, channelling a pub grub menu with chicken and chips, chilli fries and pizza for the peckish. For those cooler evenings, head upstairs to the canopy-covered roof-top, which can be booked for special occasions. The roof has a great view of Seoul and seating for 25 people to while away an evening with pint in hand. Platinum: The Hongdae choice for the ultimate European pub experience.

C r a f t wor k s Location: Kyunglidan Station:

Noksapyeong Station: Line 6, Exit 2

Craft Beer: Craftworks

Good for: An Expat Experience

The familiar craftworks logo was perhaps one of the first to spring into the central Kyunglidan area and has become an established watering hole in the neighbourhood. Opening in November 2010, Craftworks Namsam continues to serve its seven signature memorably named brews (which take after Korean mountains) with Namsam Pilsner and Jirisan Moon Beer IPA the most popular choices. These beers alongside a tasty America dining menu and an expat theme remain admirable in the five-year-old establishment. All servers speak English and have some experience of living the expat life abroad, bringing that international atmosphere to Craftworks as soon as the threshold is crossed. An outdoor patio area with high and low tables coupled with a similar spaced indoor area is perfect for any reservation, random meet or quiet drink after work. Craftworks Namsam also offers daily weekday discounts with its popular happy hour in place between 4-6pm (KRW 2,000 off all craft beers) and a sampler set available for those who are simply spoilt for choice. The pub also has daily specials and invites expats of all nationalities to enjoy a weekend brunch, 11 for 11 (11 lunch choices for KRW 11,000, that is) and an evening Hweshik menu special for groups of 4, 6 and 8 to entertain their peers. Craftworks: The original expat experience in the heart of Seoul.

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Good for: A European Experience

Gangnam Station: Line 2, Exit 11

Craft Beer: Platinum, Maloneys, Hand & Malt

With a plethora of craft beers available around the city - and indeed all around the country – it can be difficult to weigh up where to find the best craft beer experience. A firm selection of beers from independent brewers have continued to proliferate around Korea, to offer craft beer brewers, craft beer houses and craft beer pubs (to name a few). However, with one main staple in common (that being craft beer, of course), Groove Korea took a little look around town to bring you a Craft Beer Compass of establishments.

P l at i n u m B e e r P u b

CRAFT BEER SPECIAL

The Craft Beer

Story by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring / Photos courtesy of Courtesy of Alibi, Nairobi, Platinum and Craftworks

Brewing It Right The Hand and Malt is focusing on quality over profits

attention because it’s Korea’s first commercially brewed beer made with locally grown hops.” The hops are harvested on the day of brewing to ensure as fresh a beer as possible – a feat not easy anywhere. The challenge of using locally produced ingredients is a tough one, but the bar is also promising a Belgian Dubbel in mid-October using Korean yeot (a traditional sweet) instead of Belgian candy. This work with traditional Korean produce doesn’t mean Bryan has forgotten his state-side knowledge, however, with the brewing company’s mocha stout barrel-aged using Woodford Reserve craft bourbon barrels. “I wanted one of my favourite Kentucky bourbons to line the taste of our beer with oak and vanilla flavours and a distinctive aroma. Fancy trying some of the product? The Hand and Malt have a taproom on-site so people can get up close to the beers during the tours.

Tours were limited over the summer due to the brewery being so busy – surely a good sign – but they have an unofficial taproom at Hopscotch in Gangnam and there are plans afoot to open a taproom up north exclusively for Hand and Malt beers in the near future. With so many other breweries working to bring craft to the Korean public, Bryan is confident that the future is bright for both the Hand and Malt and craft brewing in general. “More breweries will add to the increased quality of beers being made locally.” While the Korean market may not be educated enough to discern quality craft from bad, Bryan Do’s team is confident this will change in time. MORE INFO www.thehandandmalt.com www.facebook.com/thehandandmalt www.facebook.com/Hopscotch.kr

F0r

The Hidden Track

A small brewing company with big ideas Story by Liam Ring / Photos courtesy of Hidden Track

ntent on living up to their mot- tried a German Rauchbier but people didn’t to, “Life is too short to drink bad like the smoky aroma. They would ask why beer,” three friends set out on their it smelt like that.” Will they return to those beer journey in 2012 with the idea beers again? “We think so. We are planning a of creating drafts that would pro- Smoked Brown Ale later in the year.” Lee takes vide a unique taste at a reasonable a moment to contemplate the chalk board. price. Three years later, and despite “Yes, we will be better next time.” some bumps in the road, the trio are primed to deliver on their goal with their experiences home-brewing leading them to a range of beers that grace the taps of their own brew pub and beyond. Hidden Track the venue lives up to its name. Come out exit three of Anam Station, walk down the main street and beat a diagonal across the rotary. Guided by the light of the 59 Pizza joint, you walk to the right and behind. And there you are. The steps down lead to a high-ceilinged venue perhaps best described as minimalist. Chalk boards advertise the five beers on tap plus their up-and-coming concoctions. Bags of German malt are stacked close by, giving the unmistakable impression that this is an operation dedicated to the higher quality ingredients that go into their product. There I meet Lee HyunSeung, a former businessman Bags of German malt are who found inspiration on trips to Europe and stacked close by, giving the particularly the Czech Republic. unmistakable impression A lot of this inspiration, and something that will be returned to again and again, is the pride that this is an operation that Europeans take in their beer. Lee describes dedicated to the higher quality those initial trips to the Czech Republic – visingredients that go into iting towns and cities which produced eponytheir product. mous beers of high quality – before returning to a country immersed in low-quality lagers Hidden Track currently has five beers on and customers generally unaware of what was out there. Ambitions suitably fuelled, Lee and tap. Elise, an American pale ale which will enhis friends set off down the home-brewing ter competition later in the year, uses Amerpath, and by 2012 felt prepared enough to set ican hops and has a herbal, citrusy flavour. up their own BBB Brewing Company. Their The American porter uses roasted malt to give first beer? A roggenbier (roggen is German for the beer a stronger body while their Belgian rye) with a tart taste at 5% ABV. The response? white has a flavour with a hint of orange and Sadly for them a touch lukewarm. “Perhaps coriander. September saw the additions of the it was our brewing technique. Perhaps we Double IPA and Rye ESB to the taps, and altried something too abstruse initially. We also though both are a touch more expensive than

the KRW 5,000 for the previous three brews, the higher alcohol percentage means you are getting what you’ve paid for. As winter approaches, the brewers are also preparing for a German Bock-style lager. Planning ahead, Hidden Track hopes to scale their operations upwards over the next few years to take advantage of relaxations in Korean liquor laws. “Being allowed to sell our product to gastropubs like the Red Cottage in Hannam and 1,2,3,4,5 in Hapjeong is a big help for a small brewery like ours.” In addition to gastropubs, the sports pub Play Ball in Gangnam is also now offering Hidden Track’s brews. It will also allow them to get ingredients at a more affordable price. “Due to our size, we are often paying a higher price for ingredients such as malt – sometimes as much as twice as much. If we could buy in bulk, we would get a better deal.” It’s a challenge for all small brewers, but Lee doesn’t want to see overheads affect the price of the beer. “Craft beer doesn’t need to be expensive.” He bristles at my mention of a bar down south where a mid-level priced craft was available at over KRW 12,000. “This is exactly what I’m talking about. Some people think they need to pay for quality. With craft beer this is simply not the case.” A final word on Hidden Track? “We want to provide a local place for local people. We are proud of our customers and proud of what we provide them.” Remember those European beers and the pride the city took in them. Lee HyunSeung doesn’t see any reason why there can’t be similar pride in Anam.

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he old Lao Tsu saying about thousand-mile journeys beginning with the first step could certainly apply to Bryan Do; a man who began his beer journey with a Mr. Beer kit in 1997. Coining the name of his company based on his attention to detail allied with the ingredient that he feels is the backbone of many beers, Bryan researched American breweries extensively to try and discover what separated the best from the rest. “Dedication to the beer from the owner and the brewer.” That may sound simple, but can easily get lost in a world as confused by economies of scale and profit margins as any other. The company has worked hard to meet numerous manufacturing demands since the very beginning. While craft beer seems to be everywhere these days, and the temptation for some might be to cut corners in the search for profit, the demands for the right ingredients arriving at the right time, coupled with a rigorous manufacturing process, means that this is not an industry to enter into lightly. “Our motto is ‘Quality and Consistency’ and I demand and support that however which way I can.” Feeling that they should begin with a beer that would be easily drinkable, Bryan and his team settled on a Belgian Wit as the perfect choice. A “gateway” craft beer that many people could enjoy, it was a beer that customers could easily become accustomed to, thus introducing them to the brand. The dedication to bringing craft to the masses has led to other quality brews such as the Extra Special Ale (Bryan’s go-to beer) which comes with a malty taste combined with a bitterness derived from English hops and more recently their Chung Pyung Harvest pale ale. “This is getting a lot of

Searching

CRAFT BEER SPECIAL

Story by Liam Ring / Photos courtesy of The Hand and Malt Brewing Company

drink anything

boring.”

CRAFT BEER SPECIAL

“I don’t want to Story by Joe McPherson Photos courtesy of Maloney’s Brewing Co.

Why Maloney’s are brewing up

something different

When asked about the history of the brewing company, Maloney regaled a story of extra dimensions, dragons and Irish gods with a smattering of unicorns in his quest for a great brew. This writer is a bit on the slow and naive side, so it took a while to figure out that much of the story was not true. Yet, what an epic tale! The real story is that they had been talking about starting a brewery since 2013. When Bryan Do started Hand and Malt, they felt that they could confidently do contract brewing with him because of his passion and attention to detail. When Do’s brewery was built, they went ahead and contracted with him. Then they sent their recipes to the Korean Food and Drug Administration for approval. They were still not sure if it could fly, but they tried anyway. Now Maloney’s brews are one of the fastest growing players on the Korean craft beer scene.

The Maloney’s philosophy is to have “smash you in the mouth” beers. Big, strong, assertive. People would instantly know if they were drinking a Maloney’s beer. The Korean market has yet to really find those flavors. As of now, Bill worries that mostly beer geeks would go for their bold flavors. Yes that’s what people thought of Indica IPA back in 2011. At first, it was a bit too strong for the Korean palate. Now it’s everywhere. Currently there are two beers in the Maloney’s repertoire, Southie Irish Red Ale and the aforementioned Combat Zone IPA. The names are inside jokes meant for Bostonites. Southie definitely is red. The head is highly aromatic. The beer itself is deceptively smooth, deceptively in that its complexity takes form by the second sip. Coffee, hops, rich sweet malts. It has a roasted finish and a good balance in carbonation. The trouble with this one is that it goes down so smoothly that the glass is empty before you know it. “It’s an orgasm in the mouth,” says professional brewer Phil Lynch. “It’s a gargling beer. A perfect harmony between malt and hops. Strong malty caramelly dark red flavor…with notes of beer.” Bill describes it as “A competition between malt and hops. It’s hard to know which one wins.” What about the Combat Zone IPA? Why did it need a makeover? Bill says that the bittering hops were too strong for the local pal-

ate. It’s a balance between the beers he wants to drink and the beers that his drinkers want to imbibe. He softened the hops, shifting half of the 60-minute boiling hops to the flavoring, aroma, and dry-hopping areas. The hops should impart bitterness, flavor and aroma at just the right levels. “The second batch. You got it. Keep it like that,” piped in Leo Jehn, who is a legendary chef and restaurateur in the area. This is where Bill gets even more passionate. “My beers are gonna be out there. Unusual. I just don’t want to drink anything boring.” Others have agreed. The taste for beer has transformed dramatically in Seoul in a short time. Beers like the ones from Maloney’s Brewery would not have gone far five years ago. Yet they are popping up all over now with a dedicated fan base, donning black t-shirts with the beers logos on them. No one has gone as far as tattooing them yet, other than Brendan Maloney himself. When asked about if there were any new beers in the works, Bill got pleasantly evasive. He said they have something they’re thinking of for next year, but they want to see how sales of the other two go first. There are also issues of finding enough refrigeration space. It’s been fascinating to watch this legendary home brewer break out into success in the flowering Korean craft beer scene. Expect great things.

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atrons milled around Phillies pub in Haebangchon. This wasn’t a usual outing. It was the middle of the day. The event was the unveiling of the 2.0 version of an already talked-about beer - Combat Zone, an IPA created by the relatively new Maloney’s Brewing Co. Its head brewer, Bill Miller, stood proudly in his signature blonde buzzcut and ZZ Top beard. Beer nerds surrounded him like groupies on a rock god. Maloney’s brews may be new to the scene, but the name is not. Maloney’s Pub & Grill, owned by Boston native Brendan Maloney, has been around for years. It’s a mainstay watering hole of the long term expat crowd, known for its home cooked meals, quality beers and a truly finely curated playlist on the speakers. Miller and Maloney teamed up to form a powerhouse team. Miller himself has been a legend. Before the craft beer boom, the best beer one could hope to get was through home brewing. Home Brew Korea, started by Rob Titley, was the main force behind this, and Bill entered and won a couple of their home brewing contests. He has a palate that can detect in one sip not only the ingredients but what happens in each stage of the brewing process.

Jarasum’s Jazz-tastic!

ENTERTAINMENT

The Jarasum Jazz Festival returns for its 12 th year of sweet, soulful sounds Story by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring / Photos courtesy of Jarasum Jazz Festival

NikBaertschsRONIN ROBERTO FONSECA TRIO Richard Bona

54 www.groovekorea.com October 2015

LIONEL LOUEKE

Badi Assad TRIO PAOLO FRESU - OMAR SOSA - TRILOK GURTU

Jarasum:

The International Jazz Festival

Friday kicks off with Jeong Dong Hwan he 12th Jarasum International Jazz festival returns to Jara and Another Friends offering a little KoreIsland in Gapyeong-gun, an Jazz culture on the main stage. Opening Gyeonggi-do from October the festival, the performers were awarded 9 – 11 for a long weekend of the grand prize at the 7th biennial Jarasum International Jazz Concourse in 2014 for music in the great outdoors. Having received the Best Festival accolade their eclectic acoustic and electric jazz rock from the Ministry of Culture, Sports and style, bringing some 1970 influences to this Tourism some ten years into its impressive decade. Following the winners are Zurich’s run, Jarasum’s 12th outing promises to main- Nik Bärtsch’s Ronin. The zen-funk quartet’s tain the high levels they have set themselves. a deep sound based around a drum, bass and With audience numbers growing by the year, saxophone combination will offer a perfect more than 260,000 people are expected to sunset backdrop in the early evening. Spyro Gyra ends the opening day with their take on revel in this year’s festivities. A plethora of genres have been scheduled ‘70s smoking blues, soul, and jazz, rockabilly this year with a mix of swing, fusion, bossa style. With more than 30 albums, 40 years’ nova and bebop delights. Whether you are a experience as a band, and 5000 live shows, jazz novice or connoisseur, the stages offer this promises to be an unforgettable set. performances for every style.

KLAUS DOLDINGER

56 www.groovekorea.com October 2015

ENTERTAINMENT

The festival takes place annually on Jara Island, which has become affectionately known as the “Jarasum Campground.”

Saturday sees trio Paolo Fresu, Omar Korean jazz-ska outfit) ready for the more Sosa and Trilok Gurtu take to the stage. energetic revellers. The Festival Lounge Their three unique and distinctive styles and Acoustic Stage will host some more bring together sounds from India, Italy, experimental offerings, ranging between and Cuba to present jazz fusion. With Heo So Young’s attractive vocals and Tin Fresu on trumpet, Sosa on vocals, and Men and the Telephone’s eccentric comGurtu’s percussionist contributions, en- positions. This year’s festival has a special Europejoy an international party sound. Roberto Fonseca Trio follows with Cuban-in- an feel with a specific focus on German spired compositions from the pianist. Jazz at the Festival Lounge. Fresh from The second day ends with Richard Bona, Jarasum Jazz’s participation in the Jaza Cameroon guitarist, percussionist, and zahead Jazz Expo in Bremen earlier this drummer, the multi-talented musician year, the festival program reflects a Gerspecializes in African poly rhythms and man/Korean partnership of five specially harmonies which are popular and ac- invited performers. Special guests playing cessible for any listener. Be hypnotized the main stage and Party Stage over the by his selection of chords and harmonic festival weekend include Berliner vocalist Celine Rudolph, Mo’Blow’s heavy groove, vocals. Guitarist Juan Carmona, an influen- driving funk, and soul rhythms, and legtial flamenco figure from France, brings endary saxophonist Klaus Doldinger. The grounds will be divided between Juan Carmona Septet’s energetic style to the stage on Sunday. Brazilian Badi As- Welcome Post, Jazz Palatte, Jazz Cube, sad continues the passionate theme with and Pop-up Stage. Three Midnight Jazz her unique cross-cultural performances, cafes (hosted by Ediya Coffee, Twosome blending native Brazilian sounds with Place, and Twelve Month) will run an pop, jazz, and world combinations. Fin- extra session of performances between ishing off proceedings is the Igor Butman 9.30pm and 11.45pm on the Friday and and Moscow Jazz Orchestra who will end Saturday evening. Performers include the the festival with an energetic and magical Sam Sam Trio and Soul Expresso who journey into the jazz world by offering a will play their soul and funk sounds to sample of their 10 album back catalog ex- ease into the evening. Jarasum International Jazz Festival is a perimenting with American and Russian truly global gathering with more than 777 jazz. For some more up-tempo beats, the Par- artists visiting over its 12-year reign. This ty Stage has scheduled performances be- year’s event promises three days of music tween 9.20pm and 11.20pm with hipsters where visitors can lose themselves in the Farmers Market (a Bulgarian folk group sweet sounds of jazz in the beautiful surwho perform hilarious sketches between roundings of Jara Island. The performers songs) and Kingston Rudieska (a South are ready. Are you?

Jarasum: The Location

Away from the festival, a unique feature of Jarasum is its location. The festival takes place annually on Jara Island, which has become affectionately known as the “Jarasum Campground.” Back in 2004, the island was nothing more than a small island that would become waterlogged whenever it rained. Now, the grounds have become a nation-wide camping haven, where the environmentally-sound grounds offer the perfect relaxation space as the jazz plays in the open-air spaces. Jarasum aside, the grounds are also used by a number of other festival organizers who flock there for its wide open spaces, efficient camping facilities, (and with only 60,000 locals), its quaint countryside feel. No wonder it’s known as “an island of festivals.” Jarasum also provides a welcome weekend break from the festival with local town Jaramok – meaning Turtle’s Neck – offering visitors a popular sightseeing destination. Visitors can see the two distinctive parallel hills (one small and one big) which look similar to that of a turtle’s head and body. The lush green fields of the turtle’s neck is said to face toward a newly appeared island - which was recognized at around the time the festival was conceived and has since been named Jarasum, after the festival, by the Gapyeong Naming Committee. And Jarasum will bring that festival feeling back to the island again this year with a host of domestic and international names performing over the three-day weekend

Jarasum Creative Music Camp

Organizers are serious about promoting local talent, with continuing projects such as the Jarasum International Jazz Concourse and Jarasum Creative Music Camp, which runs in alternate years at the festival to support new and upcoming talent who are interested in the genre. This year, the Jarasum Creative Music Camp invites participants to enter their own compositions with the winner given the prestigious opportunity to perform on the main stage as the opening act at the 2016 festival.

MORE INFO The Jarasum Jazz Festival takes place at Jara Island in Gapyeong-gun, Gyeonggi-do from October 9 – 11. Tickets are priced between KRW 30,000KRW 90,000. Tickets can be reserved at http://bit.ly/1i9PvYy or at ticket.yes24. com or call 1544-6399 Jara Island, Gapyeong-gun, Gyeonggi-do www.jarasumjazz.com/the12th/home/ 031-581-2813 1-day: KRW 50,000, 2-day: KRW 70,000, 3-day: KRW 90,000 By subway: Sangbong Station – Gapyeong Station takes 50 minutes By train: Yongsan Station/ Cheongnyangni Station > Gapyeong takes 60 / 40 minutes.

ENTERTAINMENT Edited by chance dorland (chancedorland@gmail.com)

HBC organizer Lance Reegan-Diehl

6pm - 10pm / Cost: KRW 20,000 BLACK BIRD. B1 627-326, Yonghyeon-dong, Nam-gu, Incheon

Oct 4

Magna Fall [Zandari Festa showcase]

9pm / Cost: Multiple pricing options Didim Hall. Mapogu Wausanro 18 gil 30

Zandari Festa with Harry Big Button, Hallow Jan and more Harry Big Button, Hallow Jan and more 7pm - 8pm / Cost: KRW 15,000 Sangsang Madang. Mapogu Seogyodong 367-5

MAAN, 엘리자베스 타운, Les Sales, Max Reynolds, 넌 아만다, We hate JH 4pm - 10pm / Cost: KRW 25,000~100,000 Club BBANG. Mapogu Seogyodong 327-18

Zandari Festa: Love X Stereo

Seth Martin to name a few. Lots of acts with over 80 or so to choose from.

GK: How will this year’s HBC Fest be different from previous festivals? Lance: This fall I have new venues such as The Alley Bunker taking part. Not only is owner Jack a stand-up guy, he has a real cozy place. Check it out. Now we just need to have more music arrivals from other countries!

as a supporter of the music. There may be a chance for us to also find a way for fest goers to donate any funds to a charity. However it’s about finding the right one and keeping it local. HBC Fest did raise money for two families in Yongsan that were badly affected by the Sewol disaster.

GK: HBC Fest has used funds from the event to support the community in the past, even using some of the revenue to help families affected by the Sewol tragedy. This year, you’ve partnered with the Seoul Int’l Baptist Church (SIBC). How do they help the community and how did you get in touch with them? Lance: SIBC has been opening their doors and washrooms for HBC Fest patrons in order to help the community out. They also really like the music festival and I am glad to have such a charitable organization join in

GK: There are a lot of musicians involved in this year’s event. It could be difficult for first-time attendants to decide which venue to visit first. Do you have any personal band recommendations? Lance: I find it hard to recommend bands, as I never want to be biased. I even perform at the festival, too. I play along like everyone else. The music is for everyone. I guess I like Used Cassettes, and Sebastian from Grand Seoul Central, Earl has long been a favorite of mine, Danny Valliant, Kite Flying Robot, Gritty Kitty, Kimchi Cowboys, Randy Reno, and

GK: What have been some notable HBC Fest performances through the years? Lance: I remember Josh Roy setting up his one-man show at PITA TIME in 2011 I think. He was performing inside the place, but then pointed the speaker out into the street, climbed out on the balcony and cranked it up. He had about 300 people sitting in the road, some with lawn chairs and everything else. People were even sitting on plastic garbage bags, cheering him on. This lasted for about 30 minutes. Then the police showed up and unplugged Josh, forced people out of the street. Absolute mayhem. Also, in another fine moment that same festival, on the same day, I had a guitarist coming from Japan and a guitarist in from Italy: Andrea Quartarone, and Kenji Onizuka. We had a 3 guitar show all set with my band, L.R.D. Band. It was gonna blow the roof off Phillies. The Police came in and shut Phillies music down 30 minutes before my show was to go on. That was the HBC fest that marked the start of Police and Yongsan cooperation with the music festival. It has taken some time, and police officials become better acquainted with me now, as well as the fest activities.

HBC Fest invades Haebangchon on Friday, October 16 and runs through Sunday, October 18. For more information on this fall’s venues and artists, visit http://HBCFest.com

Oct 7

MUCON Showcase HarryBigButton, The Koxx, The Solutions and more

TBD / Cost: Free Application period for admission at http://www.mucon.kr/2015_en/gs_reg. php Dongdaemun Design Plaza. 281 Euljiro, Jungu, Seoul (100-197)

Oct 8

Mucon: Hyukoh, B1A4, Love X Stereo and more

7pm - 11pm / Cost: TBD Dongdaemun Design Plaza. Jung-gu Eulji-ro 281

Oct 11

2015 Jarasum International Jazz Festival with Messgram, Romance Tap, Nice Legs, N-Tree, Che Ji Ho Group, G’Mornin’Dali 12pm - 6pm / Cost: Free / WELCOME POST STAGE San 7, Daegok 4-ri, Gapyeong-eup, Gapyeong-gun, Gyeonggi-do

Oct 17

Genius, Say Sue Me, 3Volt, Classy Wallet 9pm-1am / Cost: Free Basement Pub. Busan Geumjeong-gu Jangjeon-dong 419-53

Oct 24

People and People, The March Kings, Genius, Donovan and the 3rd Planet, Dogstar, Drinking Boys and Girls Choir, November on Earth, Charlie Keaton, Picnic in the Rain, Geukryul, Massalina, YouAePo, Summer Coats, Jisim x Mailo 3pm - 10pm / Cost: KRW 25,000 Jeng-Yi. Jung-gu Dongseong-ro 4-gil 111, Daegu

Oct 31

Fright Night 2:Love X Stereo, Mountains, DTSQ, New Blue Death, Table People, Les Sales, Used Cassettes 8pm / Cost: KRW 10,000 Kimchi Sounds. Yongsan-gu Itaewon-dong 278-8 2F

October 2015 www.groovekorea.com 59

ow celebrating its 10th year, the bi-annual HBC Fest returns with free live performances at ten different venues on Friday, October 16 followed by a tidal wave of more than one hundred live performances on Saturday and Sunday. HBC Fest always successfully draws a wider range of expats to the Kyeongridan area to enjoy local music and is an economic boon to the community. As the weather becomes cooler, the autumn festival bids a fond farewell to summer as attendees and participants take to the streets to commiserate. Expect the audience to bring traffic to a standstill, in addition to an electric energy that is palpable. However, as in the past, police will be present to maintain order and festival-goers are asked to be respectful of those who live in the neighborhood by keeping all outdoor volume to a reasonable level. There are over 30 supporting venues for HBC Fest, including Jacoby’s Burgers, Casablanca Sandwiches, UnBuckle, Gogi Chip, Al Matto, and Fat Cat Deli. The festival is provided and paid for by these local businesses in order to provide independent artists with venues to perform in while rejuvenating the local economy of the area. Although not every business in the area is a venue for live music, there are many who openly encourage the festival and these businesses can be clearly recognized by both the support they give over the weekend and by the HBC Fest posters proudly displayed in their windows. HBC Fest is a DEELEEBOB Music production, with Lance Reegan-Diehl coordinating the collaboration between artists, venues, and business owners. Groove Korea spoke with the HBC Fest founder and long-time expat to find out more about Haebangchon’s impending rock invasion.

8pm - 9pm / Cost: KRW 45,000 Club Freebird2 (Big Bird). Mapo-gu Seogyo-dong 408-17 B1F

Edited by chance dorland (chancedorland@gmail.com)

58 www.groovekorea.com October 2015

Story by Myra Pearson / Photos by Lance Reegan-Diehl

There may be a chance for us to also find a way for fest goers to donate funds to a charity. However, it’s about finding the right one and keeping it local.

No Mercy Fest Vol.1 with Messgram, Hammering, R4-19, Midian, Manixive, Gwamegi

ENTERTAINMENT

The Return 0f HBC Fest Free Live Music Invades Haebangchon This October

Oct 3

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

Investigation

Circle of Atonement

The K-Film industry will release a selection of investigative thrillers to keep us on our toes this October

Release date: October 15 Directed by: Park Eun-kyung, Lee Dong-ha Starring: Kim Yoo-jeong, Seong Dong-il, Son Ho-joon, Seo Ye-ji Distributed by: CGV Arthouse

ctober is largely dominated by the 20th anniversary of the Busan International Film Festival (BIFF), but that doesn’t mean there aren’t some exciting new additions coming out of the Korean cinema industry this fall. While big-budget fare is generally absent due to BIFF and The Throne’s presumed dominance upon its September release, here are three exciting new projects set to debut this month.

The Phone Release date: October 22 Directed by: Kim Bong-joo Starring: Son Hyeon-joo, Eom Ji-won, Bae Seong-woo, No Jeong-ee Distributed by: Next Entertainment World

actors Kim Yoo-jeong and Seong Dong-il have collaborated since the impressive drama Thread of Lies. Although still young, Kim Yoo-jeong was worked solidly in both film and TV for years to cement herself as a household name, while Seong Dong-il has appeared in a great number of projects on the big and small screen to become one of the country’s most popular supporting actors.

Science-fiction is a genre that tends not to arise often in Korean film, yet it will make an appearance in director Kim Bong-joo’s debut thriller The Phone. When successful lawyer Dong-ho decides to take a position at a pharmaceutical company, his current firm hosts a grand farewell party in his honour. When he returns home from the festivities, Dong-ho is horrified to discover that his wife has been brutally murdered. One year later, the once-celebrated lawyer’s life is now in pieces, though even greater turmoil arrives when Dong-ho suddenly receives a phone call from his deceased wife in the past, and strives to change what once went so horribly wrong. Actor Son Hyeon-joo has established a reputation for detective-style roles following acclaimed performances in Hide and Seek

and Chronicles of Evil. The Phone appears to be continuing this trend as Son once again races against time to decipher clues and save his loved ones, with the sci-fi element adding a unique spin to keep the story novel and entertaining. Eom Ji-won is also enjoying something of a renaissance in her career after receiving a Best Actress award for her performance in Hope, as well as starring in high school horror The Silenced earlier this year.

Did you know? Circle of Atonement is set to make its world premiere at the Busan International Film Festival (BIFF) earlier this month in the Korean Cinema Today Panorama program.

Did you know? Highly regarded for years due his roles in TV dramas, Son Hyeon-joo finally became a breakout movie star in 2013 due to the success of sleeper hit Hide and Seek, in which he played a man struggling to solve his brother’s disappearance.

October 2015 www.groovekorea.com 61

60 www.groovekorea.com October 2015

Story by Simon McEnteggart / Photos courtesy of Hancinema

Directors Park Eun-kyung and Lee Dong-ha - both graduates of the prestigious Korean Academy of Film Arts (KAFA) - make their feature length debuts with Circle of Atonement, the quite poetic English title of the more literal Korean title Secret. Ten years earlier, high school teacher Chulwoong’s life was ripped apart when his fiancée was found murdered shortly before they were due to be married. The detective in charge of the case, Sang-won, was never able to catch the culprit and has since spent all his time solving crime instead of seeking promotion. Despite still being traumatised by the event, Chul-woong begins working at a new school and discovers that he’s teaching Sang-won’s only daughter, Jung-hyun, who is disturbingly drawn to him. Circle of Atonement is the second time

Did you know? Actor Lee Sun-kyun has become seriously hot property in Korean cinema following a string of big hits at the box office. Helpless, Everything about My Wife and, most recently, A Hard Day were enormous commercial successes, yet he’s also thrived in the independent realm by starring in festival hits Nobody’s Daughter Haewon and Our Sunhi.

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

Three By…

Release date: October 8 Directed by: Huh Jong-ho Starring: Lee Sun-kyun, Kim Go-eun, Jang Hyun-sung, Im Won-hee Distributed by: CJ Entertainment

variety of genres that have gone on to enjoy commercial success as well as festival accolades.

ENTERTAINMENT

K-Film:

The Advocate: A Missing Body

Director Huh Jong-ho returns with his second feature following his 2011 crimethriller Countdown, which starred A-listers Jeon Do-yeon and Jung Jae-young. The Advocate: A Missing Body - more literally translated as Angry Lawyer - depicts the story of arrogant hot-shot attorney Byeon Ho-sung, a legend in his field for his ability to win even the most difficult of cases and his 100% success rate. Yet when the morally dubious lawyer is tasked with a Sinchon murder case that doesn’t have any evidence or even a body, he is forced to team with idealistic prosecutor Jin Sun-mi. Through their investigation, however, the duo discover an insidious plot behind the murder. The crime/courtroom drama stars two of Korea’s hottest actors, Lee Sun-Kyun and Kim Go-eun, who have performed in a great

Story by Jake J. Smith and Naheen Madarbakus-Ring Photos courtesy of Square Eyed Pictures

Watch Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

The Filmmaker

ed to create a successful film. Now that his first feature film has wrapped, Jake has discovered that he has really found his calling in making films of all types but especially human-interest documentaries. He has many ideas for his next production, including some offshoots of While They Watched. The producer/director is also interested in exploring communism and historical elements in other countries like Cambodia and Cuba in perhaps an extension of the crew’s North Korean work. For the immediate future and with the release of the documentary imminent, Jake’s main actions will be of the vacation kind. Now, that’s a wrap.

The Film After proposing the making of his first feature-length documentary While They Watched, Jake was not fully aware of what he had just signed up to do. “I had never made a feature film before. I just thought some things will be more natural than others but you have to be pretty good at most things to get you through.” The producer/director recalls that there was rarely any shortcuts throughout the

MORE INFO Keep up to date with Jake’s movements on Twitter @jjsmithlondon or www.sqep.co whiletheywatched.com whiletheywatched@gmail.com Facebook: /whiletheywatched Twitter: @wtwdoc

8pmCost: KRW 3,000-KRW 7,000 Hahoe Village, Maskdance Park & Downtown Andong, Gyeongsangbuk-do www.maskdance.com

Sept 30 - Oct 18

Seoul International Dance Festival

From 2pm Cost: KRW 20,000 – KRW 100,000 Namsangol Hanok Village Guakdang, Seoul Arts Center, Gangdong Arts Center, Seogang University Mary Hall http://www.sidance.org

Oct 1

While They Watched

Check Movie Listings General release. www.whiletheywatched.com

Oct 1-10

Busan International Film Festival (BIFF)

All Day Cost: Varies between screenings Busan City (Haeundae, Centum City, Nampo-dong areas) www.biff.kr

Oct 7-11

Cheonan Dance Festival

Check websites Cost: Free 306 Samryong-dong, Dongnam-gu, Cheonan-si, Chungcheongnam-do http://cheonanfestival.com

Oct 8

The Advocate: A Missing Body Check Movie Listings General release around Korea

Oct 9-11

The 12th Jarusam International Jazz Festival

From 4.30pm Cost: KRW 30,000- KRW 50,000 Jaraseom Island, Gapyeong-eup, Gapyeong-gun, Gyeonggi-do www.jarasumjazz.com

Oct 15

Circle Of Atonement

Check Movie Listings eneral release around Korea

Oct 22

The Phone

Check Movie Listings eneral release around Korea

Sept 10 - Nov 1

Cirque De Soleil

7pm / Cost: KRW 60,000-KRW 250,000 Big Top Theater, Jamsil Sports Complex, 10 Jamsil-dong, Songpa-gu, Seoul, South Korea

October 2015 www.groovekorea.com 63

Jake J. Smith works proudly as a producer and director in Seoul and London. The expat, who was born and bred in the depths of Hackney in East London, had a childhood filled with multi-cultural memories which now influence his filmmaking. Jake, a young man in his 20s, reminisces about his East London days, describing how, “At a very early age, I was exposed to different kinds of people and their stories, or problems they faced within their own culture” – a view which he now tries to integrate into his own documentaries. Jake was always passionate about film and television. Quentin Tarantino famously said that he “didn’t go to film school, he went to films” and, although Jake went to Arts University Bournemouth (AUB), there was still a lot of watching movies before any of the students attempted to make any. After plenty of movie watching and experimenting with script-writing, it was only then that Jake tried his hand at films. A fan of sci-fi and horror, the filmmaker tried lots of different areas before actually discovering what he wanted to do. With an impressive resume including location stints on feature films Philomena (2013), I Give it a Year (2013) and Far from the Madding Crowd (2015) in the UK, Jake has also directed and produced music videos, including “The Love We Had” for Joss Stone. However, the most educational roles, he confesses, were the distribution jobs held at Revolver Entertainment and Metrodome working on films like Sleeping Beauty (2011) and Werner Herzog’s Cave of Forgotten Dreams (2010). Jake believes distribution is an important role for any potential moviemaker to understand in order to appreciate the ins and outs of the business.

As the producer/director explains, the landscape of distribution has changed so much in the last 5-10 years that some indie filmmakers have decided to self-distribute and, although it results in more work and risk, this approach does come with maximum rewards “not just financially - but also in understanding how to build your audience for your next film.” Aside from all the fame and glamour that the film world brings, Jake stresses that most of the jobs he has held done so whilst studying, combining interning with some paid positions. After working at Raindance in London as tech support for their evening classes, some more behind-the-camera experience was gained before going on to study documentary filmmaking. Jake’s first short production was actually his graduation film from two years ago, a 23-minute documentary called The People’s Kitchen. The production even ended up on National TV in the UK and was the only film at AUB to achieve a screening that year. Ultimately, it combined all the professional skills learnt at college and from his placements and was undoubtedly a satisfying moment for the producer/director. It wasn’t until this year that Jake achieved his first directing/producing debut in the feature film documentary While They Watched (2015). On the back of his graduation debut, the director emphasizes that this production was his biggest personal challenge. Jake reveals how having a combination of writing, producing, and directing skills were all need-

Andong Mask Dance Festival

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

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While They Watched director/ producer Jake J. Smith shares his experiences of being an expat filmmaker ahead of his debut nationwide release.

whole process and if things serendipitously went to plan, then that could just be called lucky. Jake believes filmmakers have to play to their strengths and also have a solid pre-production ritual. Having a plan efficient in terms of both time and money was as important as deciding upon the shooting style and different aesthetics used to accompany the varying narrative and the interviews, which were more like conversations. Jake believes pre-production, research, and knowing what you need from individual scenes is essential for a flawless production. Describing the process, Jake says, “There were many times it felt like an endurance race. You could compare it to a decathlon actually. You’re going to face many different challenges and, if you’re working on a documentary, new obstacles can appear at any time”. And appear they did, with many of the difficulties an intrinsic part of the subject matter. The people selected for interviews in the documentary were either very busy, unwilling to talk to the crew, or just not interested in making or appearing in a film. Jake and the team had to be persistent (which managed to get them some way toward getting interviews), but many of those they spoke to thought the film was too provocative and declined to be involved. The South Korean government, the Ministry of Unification, and the Chinese Embassy also didn’t want to participate and refused to speak to the production team. The language barrier was also another difficulty, almost insurmountable at times. As half of the film is in Korean, selling an idea about a collapsed North Korea to people who used to be North Korean soldiers with a suspect history wasn’t the easiest task for Jake to accomplish. Also, professionals and academics who showed some interest wanted to know how the filmmakers intended to end the documentary and wanted to leave no doubt in the audience’s mind that the problems discussed were current and not fictional. The time frame also caused more confusion for the director; setting the film in the future and asking people to speak in the past tense made it difficult for some people to digest as participants asked “So, this is a documentary or something else?” Jake reiterates that everything in the film is real - bar the news reports at the beginning; it’s just told in the past tense. Finance can also be a sticky point, with Jake recognizing that asking funders for money was a fairly uncomfortable experience. Between missing deadlines, not fitting into the eligibility criteria, or completing the never-ending application forms, the producer/director states, “It’s easier to just make it with no money, which seems impossible… So we crowd funded the money, which got the ball rolling. Also I had a full-time job at the time to pay for the film. We shot the film at weekends or the scarce day off.” This perhaps sounds ominous for the wannabe filmmaker in all of us. However, there’s a small group of expat filmmakers here in Seoul, with an even bigger expat community who are willing to help out with potential projects. For Jake’s documentary, editor Neil P. George approached him about making While They Watched a reality, after watching a smaller version of the style of film that Jake had posted on his fundraising page. Additionally, writer Hope Kim, whom Jake met at a networking event, helped get the ball rolling in the beginning, with many other translators and interpreters working on the production just out of the goodness of their hearts - which is a common occurrence here on the peninsula. However, the film has not put the producer/director off future filmmaking by any means. In fact, Jake’s advice for any aspiring filmmaker is to stay positive. He adds, “As I mentioned earlier, a good metaphor is a decathlon. I think it takes some sacrifice, a lot of dedication, time and passion to finish. I’d leave myself notes in places that kept me focused on what I needed to do.” Jake also believes that keeping a firm vision of the film close to you throughout the production helps so recordings don’t go off on a tangent, or let you become distracted. Ultimately, he states, there’s very little that beats hard work. Filmmaking is a collaborative process, no matter how experienced one is in this field. As Jake advises, “It’s the creative people I surround myself with constantly improve my ideas.”

ENTERTAINMENT

This Space

elebrating his feature film documentary debut While They Watched, producer/director Jake J. Smith is currently promoting his film around Korea. The documentary, which is set in the future in a fictional world where the Kim dictatorship has collapsed, mixes interviews and news footage to present first-hand witness reviews and provide tear-jerking testimonies on experiences with the regime. Groove Korea caught up with Smith as he takes some time out of his busy schedule to share his own experiences on being an expat filmmaker and making his first feature-length documentary.

Sept 25 - Oct 4

ENTERTAINMENT Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

Celebrates 20th Anniversary in Style BIFF brings together more than 20 years of movie expertise in an unmissable celebration of the domestic and international film industries. Story by Simon McEnteggart / Photos courtesy of BIFF

In addition, the festival will host an array of programming for cineastes of all tastes. In terms of Asian output, New Currents - which focuses on new trends and talent from the continent - will showcase eight premieres, while A Window on Asian Cinema intends to screen 52 films from 32 countries. Korean Cinema Today is divided into the more commercial Panorama fare and independent focused Vision categories, while Korean Cinema Retrospective: Hidden Masterpieces of the 1960s will screen eight lesser known works of the decade. Moving away from Asia, World Cinema will showcase 52 films from experienced professionals while Flash Forward will screen 30 helmed by novices attempting to hone their craft. One of the more recent additions to the festival is Open Cinema, an outdoor screening venue at the Busan Cinema Centre. To celebrate the 20th anniversary, some great films have been selected, including the classic Miyazaki animation My Neighbor Totoro and this year’s

An incredible 304 films from 75 countries are due to screened over the 10-day run, which will include 121 international premieres, audience meet-andgreets, open talks, master classes, and outdoor screenings. MORE INFO Busan City (Haeundae, Centum City, Nampo-dong areas) Shuttle buses transport visitors between locations. October 1-10, 2015 Screening times vary. Check the website for details. Ticket prices vary per screening. www.biff.kr/structure/eng/default.asp

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he Busan International woman. A hard-hitting take, the movie follows Film Festival (BIFF) cel- a woman living in a mountain community ebrates its 20th anniver- who, after she is suddenly widowed, is forced sary from October 1 to 10 to interact with the local community. Each year, Busan programmers select the key with a host of cinematic delights and special films to be screened within the Gala Presentation program, with six titles making the cut for events. An incredible 304 films the 20th anniversary celebrations. Taiwanese from 75 countries are due to screened over the director Hou Hsiao-hsien’s highly anticipat10-day run, which will include 121 internation- ed The Assassin, which received the award al premieres, audience meet-and-greets, open for Best Director at Cannes earlier this year, is undoubtedly the biggest film in the line-up, talks, master classes, and outdoor screenings. The festival opens with Zubaan, the feature though it is joined by other Cannes competition debut of Indian director Mozez Singh, which entries Our Little Sister (by Kore-eda Hirokazu) depicts the events in the life of a young Punjabi and Mountains May Depart (by Jia Zhangke). boy as he comes of age. Closing the ceremo- Rounding out the program are Luca Guadagniny will be China/US backed Mountain Cry by no’s Venice Competition entry A Bigger Splash, director Larry Yang, also marking his feature Claude Lelouch’s Un plus Une, and the omnidebut. The film is based on Ge Shuiping’s ac- bus collaborative effort Color of Asia - Masclaimed novel of the same name and recently ters by director’s Im Sang-soo (Korea), Naomi won the Best Artistic Potential prize at the Bei- Kawase (Japan), Xiaoshuai Wang (China), and jing Film Festival for its story involving a mute Apichatpong Weerasethakul (Thailand).

ENTERTAINMENT

Busan International Film Festival

Chinese smash hit sensation Monster Hunt. Two ex- reviews, and musings by prominent film experts about tremely popular Indian films, Baahubali: The Beginning the respective films, which are sure to become collector’s items. and Brother Bajrangi are also due to be screened. Every year, festival organisers select an individual who As part of the celebrations for its 20th edition, two new special programs will be introduced. Asian Cinema 100 has made a tremendous contribution to the promotion of is designed to celebrate the best filmic achievements in Korean film internationally to receive the Korean Film the continent’s cinematic history. From the votes of 73 Award. For its 20th edition, BIFF has chosen Wieland film professionals, the top 11 Asian films will be screened Speck, who for the past 22 years working as the curator of throughout the festival. (It was originally intended to be the Berlin Film Festival’s Panorama section has invited 10, but there was a tie.) Ozu Yashujiro’s 1953 classic To- 29 Korean films to be screened, dating back to 1994 with kyo Story took the top spot, while Kurosawa Akira’s Ra- director Im Kwon-taek’s Seopyonje. In a world first, BIFF 2015 will play host to an Entershomon and Wong Kar Wai’s In the Mood for Love took tainment Intellectual Property Market which is set to besecond and third place, respectively. Asian Cinema 100 is to become a permanent feature come a regular feature at the festival. With an increasing of the festival, and will be updated every five years. In a number of films finding their inspiration from the fertile similar manner, My French Cinema will showcase some source material of webtoons, comic books, web series, of the country’s most touching and personal films, com- and dramas, as well as books and plays, the market will memorating the 130th anniversary of diplomatic relations serve to bring together media professionals to negotiate between the two nations. For this program, French film intellectual property rights and spur future creativity. The professionals selected 9 of their favourites while the 10th first edition will focus exclusively on Korean EIP, while fucame from publication writers, with the screenings rang- ture editions will broaden to include other Asian nations. The Busan International Film Festival is set to celebrate ing from Duvivier’s classic Marianne of My Youth (1995) through to the contemporary fare of Carax’s Holy Mo- its 20th anniversary in phenomenal style, and appears tors (2012). For both Asian Cinema 100 and My French more than ready to cement its status as one of the preCinema, BIFF will publish a book, consisting of essays, miere cinematic events in Asia.

ENTERTAINMENT

Cirque Du Soleil returns to Korea with Quidam

Story by Hallie Bradley / Photos courtesy of Cirque Du Soleil

young, bored girl named Zoe. Rather than taking spectators to other worlds - as is common for Cirque du Soleil shows - this performance keeps people right here in this world with real people with real-life worries. Zoe does not know what her life is for anymore and she seeks to find answers to her questions by traveling to the imaginary world of Quidam. This imaginary world is like no other as it portrays the faceless people we pass by on the street when we walk to work or go shopping. It is the lone person that is sitting on the bench in the park or standing on the street corner. Undoubtedly, there is Quidam inside of all of us and Quidam could be anyone, anywhere. This show seeks to allow the Quidam in all of us to cry out; to sing, to dream and to promote genuine and close relationships between people. The characters Zoe meets embolden her to free herself, to be proud of her individuality, and to step out of the mundane life she is living. The award winning Banquine act are currently touring with the Korean troupe, where fifteen performers showcase the amazing agility of the human body in an exhilarating synchronized act of movement. Another act is the Aerial Contortion in Silk. Imagine climbing up a long silk band of fabric and then being asked to perform astounding acts of contortion and acrobatics. While most people would not

to tell its own tale in the overall performance. Benoit Jutras’ music is performed live at each show by six musicians playing everything from the violin, cello, and percussion to the saxophone, guitars, and keyboard to keep the audience riveted to each and every spectacular move the artists make while tapping their toes on the edge of their seats. The music provides a beat for the hearts of everyone there to thump along to as they watch with jaws dropped at the feats before them and follow along with Zoe on her ultimate journey. As Zoe learns to accept her individuality, so too does every audience member. This optimistic and moving performance has a message for everyone from the young child to the older theater lover. Quidam will astonish and awe even the most difficult to please. Circus acts from around the world have been incorporated into Quidam to give people the opportunity to learn about different cultures

COMPETITION! To win a pair of tickets

for Cirque du Soleil’s Quidam in Seoul this month, visit our facebook page www.facebook.com/GrooveKorea for a chance to see the action under the Big Top

while also enjoying the humorous, sensual, and inspiring movements from the mixture of arts included in the show. If these reasons aren’t numerous or compelling enough to see the show while it is in town, think again as this is the last chance to see this particular performance. Quidam will retire from the stage in February 2016 after completing this final tour in Australia and New Zealand. Adding to that, after being converted from a Big Top tent performance to an arena show for its tour in North America, Quidam will be shown in the Grand Chapiteau as it was originally choreographed for South Korea performances. Join a club containing 155 million others that has witnessed - and been enthralled by - a Cirque du Soleil show since 1984. It is not every day that a circus comes to town and when that circus is an award-winning one, the opportunity to partake in the fun should not be passed up.

MORE INFO: Cirque Du Soleil September 10-November 1 Tue-Fri 8pm / Sat 3pm and 7pm / Sun 2pm and 6pm (No performances on Mondays) KRW 60,000 – KRW 250,000 www.cirquedusoleil.com/en/shows/quidam/tickets/seoul.aspx Big Top Theater, Jamsil Sports Complex 10 (Olympic Road 29) Jamsil 1(il)-dong Songpa-gu Seoul Bus: 2225, 3217, 3218, 3411, 3412, 3414, 3415, 3417, 3422, 360, 361, 362, 363 Subway: Sports Complex station (Line 2, Exit 7) 02-2240-8809

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iven that they have the world when Cirque du Soleil comes to traveled across five town. It sounds basic enough, but the shows continents since their are anything but as they leave heads spinning debut in 1984, it is wherever they set-up their stripy big top tent. hard to find anyone What originally started as a 73-person troupe that has not heard of in Montreal, Canada has blossomed into a the thrilling perfor- company with around 4,000 employees workmance group Cirque ing all around the world, and from September du Soleil. Flying through the air, performing 10 to November 1 the Quidam ensemble will be feats that the eyes can see but the mind can- here in Seoul. Premiering in 1996, Quidam features acronot understand, artists dressed in a colorful wardrobe and matching make-up give vibrant batics and theater under the direction of Franperformances accompanied by compelling co Dragone. Fifty-two acrobats, musicians, music. This is what happens in arenas around singers, and characters present the story of a

even think of trying it themselves, witnessing such an act is daring enough. While the Skipping Ropes may remind visitors of their own childhood games, seeing 20 artists bring their trusty jump ropes to levels beyond the imagination is another thing entirely. Other visual stunts include the German Wheel, the Spanish Webs, Aerial Hoops, Juggling, and the Clowns, all staged to provide entertainment for the whole family and leaving the members of the audience ready to analyze what they saw over dinner. With these appealing acts aside, the music and costumes within the Cirque Du Soleil family tell their own story. With over 250 costumes used in Quidam alone, each one has been hand-dyed and custom fitted for each artist, who has between two and seven costume changes in the 85-minute performance. From wigs to accessories, nothing is left up to chance and everything has been included

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

Quidam Antics under the Big Top

High Seasonal Expectations

The High Season aims to perfect the paradise dream and go beyond it.

High Season Resort becomes the newest five star hotel to open on the idyllic island of Koh Kood

68 www.groovekorea.com October 2015

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

T R A V E L

Story by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring / Photos by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring and High Season Resort

he island of Koh Kood is fast becoming one of the more popular island destinations for backpackers and travelers alike. Sitting a mere 200 km away from the Thailand capital Bangkok, those wanting adventure, tranquility and naturalistic surroundings may choose the lesser-known island for an ideal retreat. So much so has the island become a booming industry for divers and those searching the non-party sandy shores of the likes of Koh Samui that Koh Kood has developed into a touch of paradise without even knowing it. Animals and insects with a multiple number of legs roam the streets - and beaches - as if they own they place, zigzagging around the handful of tourists that choose the island for a long weekend

getaway. The main express ferry terminal Ao Salad in the east connects with Tratâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s mainland port Laek Som, with a smattering of resorts firmly concentrated on the western side, certainly taking advantage of those stunning sunsets if nothing else. Walking around the main Khlongchao area, it seems that the locals and hoteliers alike have decided that this is the area that everyone wants to come to. And they wouldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be wrong. So a five-star resort may not be the first option to consider in Thailand, especially with the plethora of guesthouses and abodes available in any town at a fraction of the cost. But what about that slice of paradise that everyone yearns for on their vacation? What about the personal butler service and chocolates placed delicately on your pillow each night? Everyone deserves that once in a while, donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t they?

One of the five-star options on the island, the High Season aims to perfect the paradise dream and go beyond it. The personal service starts at the ferry port, being met by your own personal butler for the duration of your stay who, as your first port of call, is transport for you and your party to the hotel grounds. A mere 25 minute drive and complimentary bottle of water away, the welcome continues with a handmade flower and stem necklace placed carefully around your neck to the gentle and warming sounds of welcome in Thai. Check-in is completed in your room, with no time wasted in the reception area as the butler ferries the necessary paperwork to and from your room while you unpack those necessities and change out of those salty clothes from the ferry ride over.

The (Thai) Orient Express Thai smiles, couchettes and a night train await for an alternative way to travel around Thailand. Story by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring / Photos by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring and Seat61.com

residences can offer any privacy needed. The High Season’s concept is to go back and experience nature. Walking around the grounds, a traditional feel is apparent with the wooden-like appearance of the paths and the garden patches dotted around the grounds. Local produce is sourced for the catering needs of the hotel to support rather than compete with local businesses. Being an island, natural resources can be somewhat scarce and short power cuts are frequent but understandable. Ready for any situation, each room has been fitted with an emergency light which will be activated for the 5-10 seconds that the cuts last. The entrance even has an eye-catching water-well to symbolize the grounds the hotel has been built on, which provides guests with an abundant water supply that is generated through the re-filtering of used water to minimize waste and to economize infinity pool use. With newer amenities opening this November in time for the peak season, a local grocery store, pharmacy, and optician will endeavour to make the High Season a home away from home. Whether a one night or fortnight retreat, everyone needs a five stars sometimes.

•Photos are taken from Mark Smith’s website http:// www.seat61.com/. Mark travels around the world and writes a website dedicated to train travel. Mark asks that if you do find the website useful on your own travels, please help him raise money for his UNICEF Syria appeal by donating at www.justgiving.com/seatsixtyone.

October 2015 www.groovekorea.com 71

The High Season resort is located on Koh Kood Island. The nearest airport is Trat, 200km away from Bangkok. Contact the hotel for transportation options. * The High Season resort opens in November 2015. Special opening rates are available directly from their website www.highseasonresort.com or from www.expedia. com, www.booking.com and other hotel websites.

uated at the end of each carriage, the toilets themselves were in good nick and came in Western and squatting options. Coupled with a generous sink area, it was easy enough to get ready for a decent night’s sleep. With magazines, Kindles, and snacks at the ready, the beer is put to one side as the sign right above my head proudly displays that drinking alcohol is strictly prohibited. Train staff rally up and down the aisles with their packaged fruits and Pad Thai for those not wanting to venture to the restaurant car. With bags stowed away, the husband and I sit head to toe and stare at each other. I had planned the train ride and convinced him of its merits, but I had not really planned the journey. What would we do now? We stayed up for an hour, and although chatting away at the start, became more aware of the numerous people that had decided it was time for lights out. Not really hungry (as we had departed at 8pm) and a little tired (after waiting until 8pm), the gentle rocking of the train was slowly leading us to beddie byes. As I clamber up to the top bunk, a younger me feels twelve and the older me thinks, “Please don’t fall off this thing”. Although a broken night’s sleep is had - caused by the intermittent train stops and conductor announcements for each station – the gentle sway of the train and the noises behind my pulled curtain fuse together between dreams and reality. As the sun rises, I pull back the curtain and check on my husband. It seems he’s been awake for a while. Clambering back down to his bunk, I look out the window and note that we are deep in the northern countryside. A time check also confirms that we are running an hour late and are still an hour away. Still, feeling more refreshed than I would have if I had chosen a day train and excited about arriving in Chiang Mai at 9.15am, my husband looks over and smiles.

Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)

With the butler out of earshot, it’s time for a snoop around the huge 95 meter room which will be your abode for the next four days. The reception area has a chaise lounge style sofa and chairs, a welcome basket of fruit and a tea and coffee area to offer that reassurance of a proper living room. Up three small steps leads to the bedroom, complete with compulsory – and necessary – mosquito net and a huge flat-screen TV to boot. The bathroom offers a similar sized space to that of the bedroom with his and her sinks, a toilet and bathtub. A rain shower has also been created with an open-air ceiling – although the door will need to be watched to keep those creepy crawlies out in the evening. After freshening up – and snooping around – a look around the grounds suggests that there is no need to leave the complex for the stay. Afternoon tea is served at the Beach Front restaurant for those still peckish from lunch, with The Terrace (and coffee corner) also ready with snacks. Evening options include the authentic Thai Restaurant (which is also the venue over-looking the sea for breakfast in the morning) or the soon-to-be-launched Italian restaurant, which provides some European fare. For those relaxing evenings, the complex also has the High Spa, with four separate treatment rooms and couple facilities for the romantic in all of us. Choose from steam room, sauna, and massage treatments as the on-site masseurs can discuss the best treatment program with you. For those who prefer the water, the High Season complex opens out onto the public beach from the Beach Bar, although the hotel’s 450 squared meter Olympic-sized swimming pool or your own private infinity pools which accompany each of the 42

And his suitcase. I look in his direction and return a Thai smile. I am becoming cultured after all. After a 30 minute delay, pulling into Ayutthaya station made it clear that the shorter third-class trip has its advantages. It’s certainly made second-class look a lot more appealing as the general consensus is, “Well, it can’t get much worse than that, can it?” After a two-day break wandering the ruins in Thailand’s original capital, it’s time to head back to the station again and continue the journey up north. Booked onto Train Number 1, the more scenic (that means slower) overnight train to the northern city Chiang Mai, the platform is full of backpackers of all ages waiting to get on the train. A little confused by the fact that two trains come in at the same time, that our train is running 15 minutes late (perhaps a running theme at this point?), and that nobody is being told where we should line up for each car, the platform is a little frenetic. About five minutes before the train pulls in, half a dozen conductors are shuffling people into make-shift queues so the one-minute transition of people on and off the train can be conducted smoothly. Those in car numbers 10 and 11 look slightly more nervous than the rest of us, having been escorted off the platform and to the side of the tracks in order to board. Apparently, the night train has grown with demand these days. The train comes bombarding into the tiny station, 15 minutes late as promised, and it takes about five minutes to empty the platform; it seems as if this train is going to take a while longer than the scheduled twelve hours. Once on board, and with night having already fallen, the train staff have courteously pulled out and pre-made all the beds. A stern looking conductor comes marching down the aisle, instructing us to quickly place our belongings under the temporary couchettes. We, together with a French couple who (for one night only) have become our neighbors, take our time to prepare for the long journey ahead. The bed comes prepared with a packaged blanket and reading light, with the upper bunks smaller than the lower ones (which is reflected in the KRW 2,000 difference in train tickets). Clean and roomier than was imagined, this was certainly doable for a night. The conductor came around again about 20 minutes later to check tickets, which I found to be a prime opportunity to ask where the toilets were. Sit-

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t took a while to convince the other half that one of the best, cheapest, and certainly most convenient ways to travel between Bangkok and Chiang Mai is the overnight train. With a potentially busy weekend ahead - coinciding with the Queen’s birthday - an impromptu visit to the main Huamphalong train station in Bangkok two days prior to our departure date was called for. After intense discussions with my wary travel companion the night before, the pricier option – two first-class sleeper tickets – was requested. Back came the sympathetic Thai smile from the ticket attendant, together with the reply, “Only second-class sleeper available.” This prompted a quick grimace and then a fake Irish smile from my husband beside me, but no amount of raised eyebrows and tense, defeated looks prevented us from leaving with tickets for two bunk bed-style - albeit air-conditioned – compartments for the 12 hour journey ahead of us on a Saturday night. Always one for a challenge, I almost dare my husband to a third-class carriage ride to the first express stop Ayutthaya. Reluctantly agreeing to the 90-minute train ride, we arrive at Huamphalong 20 minutes before departure to purchase two third-class carriage tickets. As a local train, no other classes or indeed air-conditioning options - are available. We get on and find two seats opposite each other, surprised to find that each side is designed for two people. With our luggage and handbags in tow, we settle in for the ride. To the right of us, a group of three teenagers look like they are ready to cause damage – and then start frantically signing to each other in Thai once the train moves. Half-shaven/ half-Mohican styles aside, the only thing to fear is the fact that their Samsung phone batteries may run out. Seated behind them are four young ladies, with streaked red and blonde locks that look like a weekend experiment gone awry. Their innocence is even more apparent as the train pulls away from the station no more than five minutes into our journey when the shuddering sound of the stainless steel shutters plummeting down can be heard, missing red-streak’s elbow by inches, causing a chorus of shrieks to be heard all around the group. All shaken up, but one of those occurrences that brings the friends – and the carriage - closer together, she carefully re-sets the shutter to its open position and promptly falls asleep on blonde-streak until they reach their destination. No sooner do we arrive at the first stop, the small airport town of Don Mueng on the outskirts of Bangkok, the train is delayed by 20 minutes. The fan has stopped moving and the carriage is getting somewhat sticky in the midday heat. My husband is looking antsy now, raising those eyebrows again, silently asking, “What are we doing on this train?” via his powers of telepathy. Thinking that things can’t actually get any worse, an older gentleman of around 65 lets his curiosity get the better of him and, despite several empty seats around him, decides to sit right next to my husband. And his bag.

Story and photos by Barbara Bierbrauer

The people and atmosphere differ from island to island with each destination offering unique experiences compared to the next.

Dive into a trio of island delights off the Gulf of Thailand

T R A V E L

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motives behind your tattoos, or the name card with those Financial Analyst or Lawyer titles on it doesn’t really matter. Lose yourself on the island as you will feel that you belong to Koh Tao and Koh Tao belongs to you. Koh Phangan Second sister, Koh Phangan is twice as big as Koh Tao and has a longer history and a larger population. As much as Koh Tao is about escaping the world above water and discovering underwater life, Koh Phangan is about stepping out of a materialistic reality and finding our own spirituality, inner peace, and balance. Although a bigger retreat, you can get familiar with both the island and its people, and yet retain your anonymity. The roads are in better condition than Tao and offer a fantastic journey, even for those not yet-experienced bikers. A ride around the island can enable you to encounter working elephants, discover different beaches, or join up to 30,000 ravers for the legendary Full Moon Party on the shores of Hat Rin.

But what really makes the island incredibly interesting is its international population. Explore the beaches and it’s fascinating to learn everybody’s story. Meet the German girl who was a former clerk who emigrated to build a meditation and spirituality center while taking care of four abandoned puppies. Or converse with the Czech guy who sold his business in Prague to open a backpacker’s resort. Walk further down and try some Italian pasta made by the Italian guy who recently moved over or purchase a French baguette made by the French baker who calls Phangan home. In fact, probably every village has at least one business run by a Westerner. These people are all united by one life-changing decision – to leave their old life behind and start anew at the beach side surrounded by the jungle. Koh Phangan offers The Beach experience and you can certainly be Leonardo DiCaprio’s character forever. Or a week at least. The international community on Koh Phangan also adds to the island’s incredible atmo-

sphere, while the Thais continue to contribute their marvelous easy-going attitude and renowned friendliness. In addition, the Germans add their reliability, the Swedes their humor, and the Americans can offer a deliciously cooked steak. While the people are amazingly different, they are all joined together as one community, craving adventure and courage. Koh Samui Last, but not least, our trip brings us to our final island; the world-famous Koh Samui. Some 30 years ago, Koh Samui was what Koh Pangan is now - a paradise for backpackers, a destination for singles or young couples, not one for families with kids or for the older generation. That has changed over time as the popularity of the island has grown and accessibility has become easier. Direct flights from Samui’s own airport to Bangkok and many other Asian destinations are available hourly. However, tourists be warned that flight prices to Koh Samui airport can be up to four times more expensive

October 2015 www.groovekorea.com 73

Koh Tao The smallest and least developed island is also considered the “youngest” of the three. The islet is a complete paradise for divers and snorkelers, with international diving schools spread all over the island. Greeting the sharks amidst a morning dive is no problem as there are plenty of them guarding the house reefs. (Just remember, the snorkeling mask makes

them look twice as big and in reality they are a size of a kitten). Koh Tao has been populated for less than 70 years and houses around 3000 residents. There is a distinct feeling of visiting a little village; the type where everyone knows everyone else, and information will undoubtedly spread as quickly as news about Harry Styles’ new haircut. However, diving is the huge draw and social door opener in Koh Tao; irrespective of whether you are traveling alone or in a group, there are many diving groups where you can discover “your” people. Soon, you’ll have friends aplenty and may even find yourself sitting in the shade of patios, thumbing through marine life books with other fellow sun-bronzed and tattooed divers. As with any sub-culture, Koh Tao people have their own patterns and codes that establish their own open, egalitarian and sincere characteristics that may differ from your initial impressions. The number of dives and the numerous sites that frequent your log book, the

than the mainland airport of Surat Thani. Smaller towns on the island can offer a broad variety of what a tourist needs – coffee shops, bars, restaurants, food markets, bike rentals, dress shops and boutiques, selling fake Gucci and Prada. However, a major difference between Samui and its siblings is the broad variety of resorts. It is not all about the diving or chatting with backpackers from Europe. In a slightly more upmarket itinerary, enjoy relaxing at the infinity pool, dining at the resorts’ restaurants, or drinking a cocktail at a beach bar. The variety of comfort and moderate-to-expensively priced accommodation is incredibly broad, providing numerous hostel and five-star lodging options. Koh Samui is very much the right place for those who are allergic to making decisions. The stress levels remain low as choosing a meal from the menu or which pool that overlooks the sea to swim in remains high up on the agenda. You don´t have to leave your resort as you will probably have everything on your doorstep. Should you decide to make a journey behind the resort gates, the staff will arrange a comfortable tour in an air-conditioned vehicle for you. Although, be warned that the traffic is heavier than on the other two islands. So which island is right for you? Well, the choice of the “right” island boils down to your personality and preferences. Whether you like to go for a bit of diving, refuse to shave for the vacation period, or simply want to change your life completely, the islands have it all on offer. So take a seat on an elephant, a sip of that Pina Colada, and be a bit of a chameleon by traveling to all three beautiful islands in the Gulf of Thailand. The sisters are awaiting you with open arms.

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

The Three Sisters Think of island vacations and you probably think of resorts and beaches. Basically it’s the same any island you go to, right? Where there is a beach, there is water and sand, and sea all around. And then there’s that “going on vacation” feeling of not having to work. But all those preconceptions aside, what makes traveling really special is the people that you meet and the adventures you are bound to experience. Island hopping can be a serious alternative to experiencing all those predicted notions and more. Separated only by a few kilometers, three sister islands in the Gulf of Thailand – Tao, Phangan and Samui -- can offer the “basic package“ island hopping vacation with as many add-ons as needed. Guaranteed are the sandy or rocky beaches, clear water, jungles, sun and delicious food. And with easy accessibility via Bangkok to Koh Samui from Incheon Airport, or staying one night in the capital and then combining a comfortable night train with a bus and then a ferry to one of the islands makes Thailand’s beach jewel only a day away. But the basic package is the only similarity the sister islands have. It’s as if the siblings have only their mother in common, and the fathers belong to three different cultures and races. The people and atmosphere differ from island to island with each destination offering unique experiences compared to the next.

SK Knights star Kim Sun-hyung is coming off a bittersweet season of near misses. However, last year’s near successes with SK have only made him more determined to succeed this year.

SK Knights Prepare Story by Liam Ring / ranslation assistance by Keum-seok Kim/ Photos courtesy of SK Knights

For The Mobis Challenge

74 www.groovekorea.com October 2015

SK will look to shake off an embarrassing exit at last year’s quarter finals stage, when an injury to star forward Aaron Haynes contributed to a quarter-final exit against sixth-placed ET Land

the third tier sliding upwards on an increasing scale to a KRW 45,000 seat right next to the bench on courtside. This range guarantees fans all manner of seating for their buck and also gives the extra keen the chance to get closer to their basketball heroes. Fancy bringing a date to a game? The club even has couple-seating available; think cosy or creepy based on your mind-set for that one. While snack choices are limited to burger fare and only soft drinks are available, fans can readily bring in chicken and beer if worried about getting hungry or thirsty over the four quarters. For the extra-committed, autograph opportunities with players before and after games are also a boon, with the club insistent on players being respectful to fans at all times. In pre-season, the club organises an out-of-town trip where up to 200 fans can spend an evening with players. For season ticket holders, an end-of-season dinner with players regularly attracts up to 100 fans. It isn’t only about spending time with fans, however, with the SK Knights heavily in-

volved in community work and with schools throughout the region. The club regularly donates money to charities to help the needy and also helps with programs to aid student athletes. Players regularly visit schools to meet teenagers and offer extra coaching. In addition, thanks to the cooperation of Nike, promising youngsters can get the chance to attend a four-day training camp run by NBA coaches. With such community involvement, SK hopes to bring the game to more young people and ultimately help to improve the game on the peninsula. With the season well under way, it might just be time to start planning for an alternative Saturday/Sunday experience or for an evening game during the week. Tickets can be bought on-site, with an extra 1,000 tickets available for big matches to ensure no fan gets turned away. Perhaps it is time to invest in some Korean hoop dreams.

October 2015 www.groovekorea.com 75

year’s quarter finals stage, when an injury to star forward Aaron Haynes contributed to a quarter-final exit against sixth-placed ET Land (a team that had ended the regular season with a losing record). At the other end of the table, basement dwellers Samsung Thunder fans will be demanding improvement on a dismal 11-43 record; a season that at one point included a run of one win in fifteen games. Plenty to play for at both ends of the table then. Playing at the 6,200 plus capacity Jamsil Students’ Gymnasium, SK Knights’ continued quest for top spot in Korea will be led by former Dongbu forward David Simon and Korea national team member Kim Sun-hyung. Roster changes has meant regular followers of last season’s side will see some new faces on the court, with the recruitment of brothers Eric and Daniel Sandrin (known by their Korean names Lee Seung-jun and Lee Dong-jun), Oh Yoon-joon, and Lee Jung-suk in addition to draftees Simon and veteran point guard Dewarick Spencer strengthening a side that fell short last season. Fans will have a plethora of choice when it comes to seating, with tickets ranging from a KRW 10,000 perch on

Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)

he Korea Basketball League (KBL) sets off on a new season of three-pointers, rebounds, and fast plays, with all efforts focused on stopping Ulsan Mobis from making it four titles in a row. Played over a six-month regular season with playoffs to follow, it’s the sports fans next stop for live sport while baseball and soccer players are tucked up warm and cosy at home. The ten-team league offers 54 games split evenly into home and road ties over the season, with the top six heading into a quarter, semi and final play-off structure. Last season saw Ulsan sweep Dongbu in the best of seven final, with the Wonju-based side never really getting going against a side lead by national team stalwart Yang Donggeun. In fact, over the past three best-of-seven finals, Ulsan has only dropped two games, suggesting that the side that finished only two games clear at the end of the regular season is fully capable of blowing away most KBL sides when needed. Last season’s second placed Dongbu will still be smarting from that pasting at the hands of Ulsan, while Jamsil outfit SK will look to shake off an embarrassing exit at last

SPORTS

Jamsil’s finest look to set aside last season’s disappointments

Taking up basketball after his father’s encouragement in elementary school, Kim Sun-hyung’s pace and ability to get inside opposing defenses has seen him reach the South Korean national team as well as become one of the most high-profile players with SK over the past few seasons. A busy pre-season has seen him with the Knights for three weeks of skills training in California before playing for the national team against Taiwan. National team training for the Olympic squad followed before a return to Seoul for the September 12 tipoff for the new season. It’s been a busy last couple of months for the player who has identified a better shot percentage as the main thing he needs to work on for the coming season. Asked for the best moment of last season, he is quick to point to a late three pointer that tied a game against rivals Dongbu; a game SK won in overtime. The worst; “Aaron Haynes, our top scorer, getting injured. We then went out to ET Land in the first round of the playoffs.” It’s a disappointment that has made him hungrier than ever. “Since I’ve turned pro, we have never won a championship. That has to be the goal for this season.” Which brings us to Ulsan Mobis - the dominant club over the past three years in Korea. Three years ago SK lost the final series 4-0 against the Ulsan outfit, and the Jamsil side also lost out in the semi-finals the following year. Kim, while respectful of all the sides in the KBL, obviously sees them as the main challenge. “All the teams are very competitive, but we want to beat the Mobis the most.” Among those on the Mobis roster, Kim identifies fellow national team player Yang Dong-geun as his chief opponent in the division. “I would love to develop leadership skills like he has. He is also brilliant at managing games.” To overcome Yang and Ulsan, Kim believes that integrating SK Knights’ new players as quickly as possible will be crucial. “I’m already close to our new center Eric Sandrin (Lee Seung-joon) from our national team days, and will look to communicate well on the court with the other new players too.” With better roster depth, players and fans will be hoping that the club isn’t one injury away from another season ending in a disappointing whimper.

Oct 3 and each Saturday

Story by Liam Ring / Photos by Seoul Gaels and Nana Kim

Young And Old Turning Out

For The Seoul Gaels

Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)

76 www.groovekorea.com October 2015

Despite playing a sport with Irish roots, Seoul Gaels is very much an international club. With players hailing from Korea, France, Canada, the United States, and Australia just some of those turning out this season

Seoul Gaels GAA training

2pm to 6pm / Seoul Gaels Men’s and Ladies’ Gaelic Football teams / Hurling and Camogie teams Yongsan Army Base www.facebook.com/seoul.gaels a baseball mitt glued to their hand, it was seen as an opportunity for children to try something different. Training being conducted in English was probably a bonus for parents as well, and this year’s NAGs saw eight children’s teams compete in Gaelic Football – two of which were from Shanghai. In addition to developments in Gaelic football, there has also been an interest in hurling (often called the fastest game on grass) and the ladies version camogie. Hurling exhibition matches have been played at every round of the Korea League for the first time this season and both hurling and camogie players competed at the All-China Games in Hong Kong in June, with Natalia Hyland the MVP for the camogie tournament. Last month’s NAGs saw two sides assembled from players across the region compete, with hopes that full club sides may participate next year. Hurling brings many challenges, not least of all the fact that many hurlers at the club are dual players – a tremendous commitment – which complicates things as most hurling and football tournaments are held on the same day. Aside from the equipment challenges in hurling, the lack of similar sports that skills can be transferred from – aside possibly from elements of field hockey and lacrosse – mean that it is a more difficult sport to begin playing. A lot of credit must go to Neil Timmins and Kenny Griffin for promoting hurling this year and introducing it to so many new people. As well as players from traditional hurling strongholds, the club also has guys from non-hurling areas like Sligo, Kerry, Korea, France, and Canada playing the ancient game. Of course success on the pitch is also a significant factor in a club’s development, and both the men’s and ladies A teams remaining undefeated in Gaelic football on the peninsula this year. Overseas, the men’s A team also won the All-China Games Cup, a tournament which attracted more than 300 players to Hong Kong in June, with victory over Shanghai

particularly sweet after falling in the final to the same team in 2014. The Ladies A team also saw success, with a great run to the final before losing to the hosts. At the NAGs played last month, Seoul’s A team took home the top prizes in both the Men’s and Ladies Cup competitions while Eoin O’Sullivan of Seoul took the MVP award in the hurling competition. This month sees the Gaels head to Shanghai for the Asian Gaelic Games (AGG); the culmination of the Asian season. Between 600 and 700 players will descend on Shanghai for what is sure to be two days of full-blooded action. Regulars will be joined this year by clubs from Qatar, Kuwait, and Dubai among other Middle Eastern countries, with the quality of competition expected to be turned up a notch by what are extremely well-funded clubs. In football, the Gaels will be sending two men’s and two ladies’ teams while one hurling team will also be competing in an event that will be played over four pitches throughout the weekend of October 24 and 25. Over the last seven years, the club has also competed in Beijing, Tokyo, Kuala Lumpur, and Penang, meaning that members should always keep their passports handy. This urge to develop the game, coupled with the camaraderie that comes from playing with such a multinational group, are key reasons why the club has continued to develop over the years. With new recruits, able sponsorship, the assistance of Ambassador Aingeal O’Donoghue and the Irish Association of Korea, the club heads towards 2016 confident of even greater strides being made on and off the field. With thanks to Seoul Gaels Treasurer Brian Keane for his tireless work on the article. The club would like to thank sponsors Wolfhound, Route 66, Syntek Korea, Perfect Medium, and the Reach Education Organisation for their continued support. Check out Seoul Gaels’ Facebook page for how to get involved.

Oct 3

Korea Touch Association mini-tournament

www.facebook.com/koreatouch 11am start / Teams are made on the day with a KRW10,000 sign up fee. / Jamwon Pitch, Apgujeong

Oct 4

England vs. Australia at Sin Bin Bar

4am / Join the Seoul Survivors at Sin Bin / Sin Bin Bar

Oct 5 every Monday

Seoul International Darts League

www.seouldarts.net / 7.30pm to 10.30pm Sides from around Seoul / Bars around the Itaewon and HBC area (every Monday at Sin Bin Bar)

Oct 7 every Wednesday

Itaewon Pool League Rounds

www.itaewonpool.org / 7.30pm onwards Scrooge Pub Wonky Triangles, Shenanigans Boomtown Rats, Rising Stars, Dolce Vita Angry Birds and others Bars around the Itaewon area including Scrooge, Sin Bin, JR Pub, Dolce Vita and others.

Oct 8-11

President’s Cup Golf Tournament

All day / America vs. The Resk of the World (excluding Europe) / Jack Nicklaus Golf Club, Songdo.

Oct 9

Road FC

8pm / MMA fighters including the Flyweight Title Unification bout / Jangchung Gymnasium

Oct 11

Brazilian Jiu Jitsu Open Mat Rollathon www.seoulmartialarts.com / 3pm to 5pm Women’s open mat practice / Body and Seoul in Kyungridan

Oct 17

Korea Expat Rugby Association (KERA) Round

https://www.facebook.com/SeoulSurvivors?fref=ts All day / Seoul Survivors, Cheongju / Daejeon Knights, Busan Bandits, Geoje Rugby, Jeonnam Aliens, Barbarians, Military side from Yongsan and Pyontaek. Geoje Island

October 2015 www.groovekorea.com 77

Regular training sessions take place at the centrally located Yongsan army base. Turnout has been consistently high even throughout the summer heat. Keane gives a lot of credit for the year’s successes to coaches Sean Cummane and Neil Timmins for the men’s teams and Tom Gaughan and Ollie Cunningham for the ladies teams for the high quality sessions they put on every week. Beginning with warm-ups that often incorporate ball skills, turns are taken week by week with kicking, tackling, soloing, and shooting drills before teams go through game situations and then practice matches. It’s a high-intensity two- hour workout designed to augment the fitness work done during the week by each player. It isn’t only adults who are working hard this season though, with weekly Gaelic football training sessions for children made up almost entirely of Koreans. Development officer Conor Melvin’s achievements in bringing after-schools Gaelic Football programs to many schools across Seoul meant further exposure for the sport with the Gaels even running a kids season from April to July this year and last year saw Gaelic Games brought into four schools across Seoul. It all began three years ago with Melvin’s own students expressing an interest in the game he played and, in an environment where almost everyone seems to have

Oct 3 and every Saturday except

Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)

s the pre-eminent Gaelic Games club in the country, Seoul Gaels have been no strangers to success since establishment in 2002. A quick perusal of the club’s records sees regular victories in the Korea Gaelic Football League - where the club regularly competes against Loachra Busan and Daegu Fianna - along with successes in the North Asian Games (NAGs) and strong performances at the continental level. Continued Gaelic Games success this year has been allied to improvements in hurling, in camogie (the women’s version of hurling), and at the under-age level, making the Gaels one of the most active clubs in the Seoul region. The season began with the typical turnover in players seen by every expatriate club (with club treasurer Brain Keane attending one Wolfhound-hosted goodbye party for seven people), yet Gaels found their numbers increased from the previous season, as players from 32 countries and far beyond. Despite playing a sport with Irish roots, Seoul Gaels is very much an international club. With players hailing from Korea, France, Canada, the United States, and Australia just some of those turning out this season.

9am onwards / Route 66, Dillingers, Phillies, Wolfhound and Beer O’Clock Gwacheon Government Complex (Line 4)

SPORTS

Gaelic Games on the peninsula is going from strength to strength

Seoul Baseball League matches

48 Grounds, 3 Men, 1 Podcast, No Rounders.

Oct 24,25

Asian Gaelic Games

All day / Seoul Gaels head to China / Shanghai

Oct 24

KTA Final tournament of the year

Teams from across the country form three divisions (KRW120,000 team entry fee) Jamwon Pitch, Apgujeong

Nov 1

Rugby World Cup Final

1am / Join the Seoul Survivors at Sin Bin / Sin Bin

48 Shades Of Football Present The Ultimate Korean Football Podcast

Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)

78 www.groovekorea.com October 2015

K-League, information and opportunities to watch games can be relatively difficult to come by. With most TV channels obsessed with the notion that Koreans only - and will only ever - like baseball, most games are relegated to streaming sites while the print media offers only perfunctory accounts of games. A bugbear of the podders, this is unlikely to change the perception that the K-League is an inferior product, and that people should only attend games when an overseas side plays a friendly or when a K-pop outfit does the half time show. The average soccer fan unfortunately seems intent on eschewing domestic fare in favor of late night Barclays Premier League (BPL) viewing; showing the same baseball game on different channels isn’t the best way to make people think differently. That seeming disinterest from the locals shouldn’t put the curious off though, with the boys pointing out that most teams have at least a few hardcore foreign fans. A vibrant expatriate community partly based around the rokfootball. com forum also means that there will regularly be some friendly faces for matches around the capital and beyond. Mark recently joined Paul and about 10 Diablos on an away jaunt to Seogwipo to see Jeju United versus FC Seoul (a 2-1 defeat for Park Chu-young’s team); just another example of the regular pilgrimages available around the peninsula, so there is plenty for the novice fan to lend their voice to. Looking ahead, the lads will continue their quest to see recent drink driving exponent Kang Soo-il grow a moustache AND make the national team roster while Mark’s campaign for Seongnam FC to be taken seriously as an Asian Champions League (ACL) entrant sees no sign of abating following the southsiders run to the last sixteen. They will also be doing their best to keep the irascibility at an entertaining level following the loss of Steve Waddell as he heads to pastures new. A slot for a new host perhaps? Do you know a lot about Korean football? Can you string some coherent sentences together? Do you have a detailed knowledge of the beers on special at the local GS convenience store? Then an appearance on SoundCloud or iTunes might not be too far away.

The three regular hosts have had a long association with the Land of the Morning Calm, coupling their love of Sheffield Wednesday, Celtic, and Aberdeen with following FC Seoul, Seongnam FC and, in Steve’s case, the newly formed Seoul Eland With thanks to Paul Carver, Mark Kelly, and Steve Waddell for all their help. 48 Shades of Football is available through SoundCloud and iTunes. Follow Mark at The K-League Kilt for a Scottish take on the K-League. https://thekleaguekilt. wordpress.com Steve Waddell’s The 48 Club blog details his efforts to ground hop around South Korea. https:// the48club.wordpress.com/author/the48club Follow the Diablos Facebook page at https://www. facebook.com/groups/DiablosBlancos/?fref=ts You may also like: www.rokfootball.com for all things forum related. Check out www.kleaguefootball.com/ to keep up with the weekly cut and thrust of the league run-in as well as thoughts on Koreans overseas.

October 2015 www.groovekorea.com 79

Knowing plenty about the subject, but pretty much zip about the technology, the three have overcome low technology, GS beer specials, and high-pitched schoolgirl giggling to bring us a podcast that benefits hugely from the diverse allegiances and viewpoints of the hosts.

interest in FC Seoul has manifested itself in becoming leader of the Diablos (the FC Seoul foreign fan club) and treasurer of the Suhoshin (FC Seoul fan’s committee). He has also traveled to China, Japan, and as far afield as Australia. Mark has coupled his 35 years of supporting Celtic with 8 supporting Seongnam FC, as well as trips to FC Seoul, Bucheon, and Goyang. For Steve Waddell, who got in on the ground floor with Seoul Eland, he has seen the club develop from “a newspaper story to a fully-fledged club with a squad, staff, and team identity from nothing.” He has even had the chance to have dinner with Eland manager Martin Rennie and met Aberdeen legend Brian Irvine when the former Scottish international visited Rennie in Seoul. Asked for differences between supporting soccer here and at home, 48 Shades identifies how orchestrated the chanting can be. Like clockwork - and often irrelevant to what is happening on the pitch - fans will stick to their chants, thereby leaving few lulls in noise levels. Another thing to separate Korean fans is their relative positivity, with a Nicklas Bendtner-style shank over the crossbar likely to be only met with sounds of encouragement. Finally, the relative lack of banter between opposition fans is something that podcasters more used to Sheffield Steel derbies or an Old Firm clashes took some getting used to. For the expatriate fan hoping to get more involved in the

Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)

mbracing the possibly sado-masochistic elements that come from watching Korean soccer on a regular basis, Paul Carver, Mark Kelly, and Steve Waddell’s decision to bring their own ramblings to the podcast universe has borne fruit in previous months with more taking to SoundCloud or iTunes to listen to what the trio term “three slightly drunk guys recording our bar-room chat.” Knowing plenty about the subject, but pretty much zip about how to actually record it, the three have overcome low technology, GS beer specials, and highpitched schoolgirl-style giggling to bring us a podcast that benefits hugely from the diverse allegiances and viewpoints of the hosts. With the relative dearth of information available to expatriate fans of the beautiful game, some would say it has taken on increasingly essential listening. Basing the name on the 48 grounds used by the Korean football pyramid - and with a nod to their desire to cover as much about football on the peninsula as possible - the three regular hosts have had a long association with the Land of the Morning Calm coupling their love of Sheffield Wednesday, Celtic, and Aberdeen with following FC Seoul, Seongnam FC and, in Steve’s case, the newly formed Seoul Eland after a long dalliance with Suwon. In Paul’s case, this

SPORTS

Story by Liam Ring / Photos courtesy of 48 Shades of Football

Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)

the Itaewon Pool League Something for Wednesday nights?

he brainchild of long-time Korea resident Bob Denny, the Itaewon Pool League (IPL) recently entered its fifteenth year with Wednesday nights across Seoul dedicated to big breaks and a few beers around the pool table. With the main aim of promoting friendship and camaraderie through competition, the league brings a mix of expatriates and Koreans together of all ages and skill levels. Whether you can regularly run a table or have never potted off a break, there is plenty of opportunities to get involved. The league runs two seasons a year, with 20 weeks of regular season action followed by playoffs and an end-of-sea-

son banquet. These days, 24 teams (a big increase from the initial 8) compete across four divisions with matches evenly split between home and away ties. Names such as Hollywood Scandal, Scrooge Pub Wonky Triangles, and Shenanigans Boomtown Rats point to the bars which host and sponsor the teams with a lot of bars having more than one team; meaning some will host matches every week. Matches break off at 7.30pm every Wednesday night, with teams playing 15 frames – twelve singles matches and three doubles matches over the night. Captains hand over the order of play list before the match starts to try and avoid things getting too tactical, but with some teams sticking rigidly to their formation while others try to box clever, there is still the possibility of predicting who will

be playing when. Points are amassed for frame wins over the season before the top 16 sides enter the play-offs for end-ofseason glory. Scrooge Pub Wonky Triangles are the current champions, although until recently The Rising Stars (featuring 5 of the top 10 ranked players) had been on a fantastic run of fifty-plus victories in tournament play. Also expected to compete for top honors this year are sides with monikers as eclectic as Dolce Vita Angry Birds, Bulldog Estyle, and Sin Bin Potato. Finish outside the top 16? No problem – there is a Championship B division to keep everyone interested well into December. The individual player ranking system – set up and monitored by webmaster Bernard Condrau – adds further competitive spice to proceedings. The 302 play-

League Website: www.itaewonpool.org Dominic Johnson’s email: kwangwoondom@yahoo.com With thanks to Dominic Johnson for his help with the article.

With the main aim of promoting friendship and camaraderie through competition,

the league brings a mix of expatriates and Koreans together of all skill levels.

October 2015 www.groovekorea.com 81

80 www.groovekorea.com October 2015

With

league), most improved, best rookie and biggest giant-killing – a reward possibly already decided after an upset involving two players 500 points apart last month. It’s an evening that combines the serious and the humorous, allowing players to get their groove on, let their hair down, or whatever else takes their fancy. Spots are still available for anyone interested, and with teams across the ‘twon there is plenty of opportunity to get involved. Confident(ish) with a pool cue? Fancy spending Wednesday evenings with some like-minded people? The IPL knows just the place for you.

Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)

Racking Up

ers start out on 1,600 points each, with points added or deducted according to performances. The system seeks to award those who win against significantly higher ranked players, and with 700-plus points covering the top player to the basement dwellers, there is plenty of room for improvement. League president Dominic Johnson remembers his first night at the table, when a victory over one of the topranked players saw him gain 27 points (while the higher-ranked player lost the same amount). “I lost to the same player later in the night,” he remembers, but “I was expected to so only lost a couple of points.” Want to get involved? Johnson suggests contacting one of the league officials through the website (using the “Off the Break” section of the website) or just heading down to one of the participating bars. Team fees for the season are usual-

ly partly or fully covered by the sponsoring bars, with Johnson adamant that the league wouldn’t be in the healthy state it is without the bars’ involvement. Most teams have between 8 and 12 players, with a minimum of 6 required in order to compete, but with players required to play in 5 of the 20 rounds over the regular season in order to be eligible for the playoffs, budding pool players will need to get in touch soon in order to avoid being left out until the new season in January. The league also runs separate singles and doubles tournaments throughout the season meaning that players can get a (possibly much needed) break from their team if they wish. Sign-ups happen on the day with players then heading to whichever bar is hosting. Players can then meet up later in the evening to discuss giant-killings, big breaks, and the following week’s matches. Come December and all players congregate at the Crown Hotel for an endof-season banquet and awards evening where champions, division winners, and individual awards are handed out. Awards include best player awards for male and female competitors (25% of the

SPORTS

Story by Liam Ring / Photos by Jae-suk Koo

A Touchdown Against The Odds

An American (football coach) in Seoul is making a difference

We’ve been to the Seoul

Championship game four

years in a row. But if we can’t do it this year, we can never do it. D. J. Battistella Jr. – KU Tigers Assistant Coach

and execution, and it needs to be better for next week. But well done on a good win.” The twenty-odd players nod, cheer, and break. A lot of these players – many with their mandatory military service still to do – had not even seen American football beyond a brief encounter with the remote control and a TV before coming to Korea University. Yet, now they have just won their last divisional game of the Seoul American Football Association (SAFA) to secure their place in the playoffs, and if you listen to assistant coach D. J. Battistella Jr., there is plenty of success to come. The Monroe, Michigan native has been with the Korea University Tigers for two years. In his sixth year in Korea, he has divided his football time between the Seoul Vikings, the Golden Eagles, and most recently coaching with the Tigers. “I ran into a guy carrying pads one day on

the subway, and found out about the American football League here. I was playing soccer before. And I suck at soccer!” Getting involved with the Tigers through head coach Lawrence Bowlby allowed him to pass on some of what he had learned throughout a life in football. “I got a football scholarship at Tri-State in Indiana. It was a NAIA school but I got to play football, and that’s what mattered.” Has he been able to bring that experience to Korea? “Absolutely. Of course there are massive differences in the level of competition, but the diligence and heart that these players show makes a lot of things possible.” Battistella is frank about some of the challenges both the coaches and the players face. The club depends on a strong alumni network of support to keep going as there is zero university funding or scholarships and often parental or even girlfriend pressure can take its toll. “These players are being asked to perform on dirt pitches – all the way up until the championship game (the only time they’ll compete on turf all year). Parents get worried about injuries. Girlfriends and professors may have issues with the training schedules as well.” While many other athletes at top universities get to cut class, there is none of that for the Tigers. “We lose players on a regular basis – they need to study, their girlfriends want to spend time with them, their parents don’t want them getting injured. It’s all a challenge.” So how is it to train them? “Well... some kids don’t know much when they join. So certain things that

The club depends on

would be second nature for university athletes in America aren’t so here.” American football isn’t a big sport at high school in Korea, with only a few schools in Incheon offering programs beyond flag football near the capital. Without that background, things that can come naturally to an American just won’t over here. “The strength – that diligence – can also be a weakness. They are so focused on getting the play perfect that they don’t realise the need for flexibility. That creativity can take time to come that’s where coaching comes in to play.” Looking towards the end of the season and beyond, Battistella is convinced of the Tiger’s prospects. “We’ve been to the Championship game four years in a row. But

D. J. Battistella is a guest writer with American Football International www.americanfootballinternational.com

October 2015 www.groovekorea.com 83

82 www.groovekorea.com October 2015

a strong alumni network of support to keep going as there is zero university funding or scholarships

if we can’t do it this year, we can never do it.” Seniors fresh from military service will have a massive part in helping with the training. “Lawrence (Bowlby) trained those seniors three...four years ago. They will help us to train the younger players because they already know the plays, drills, and schemes. I think our consistency comes down to that better recruitment over the past four years. These players can coach themselves to become better at problem-solving in a game.” Football doesn’t stop with just SAFA and the Tigers, however, with both Battistella and Bowlby involved in sponsoring a Filipino team called the Manila Vanguards. “Last year we got them the equipment and started teaching clinics.” Battistella and Bowlby will both head to the Philippines in the coming months to help with clinics. The sport is getting bigger with television coverage and increased popularity for the six-team league the latest incentive – something that the Korea American Football Association (KAFA) can only dream of. And the connection to the Philippines is something that the young Tigers players benefit from as well, with the club getting to play a pre-season game against the Filipino national team each February. “Not many university teams in Asia can count a match against a national team as part of their pre-season ritual... in any sport. I’m proud of my part in that.” Looking ahead, Battistella is unsure about his next chapter but he knows that football will be a part of it somehow. “I played in Melbourne last summer in the Gridiron Victoria league, and I really loved it. I enjoyed playing at a high level as well as coaching the Australians next to me. I can be a solid semi-pro player back in the States so maybe I can get on with a team in Europe for a season or two, which would be a fantastic opportunity to share my passion for the sport.” Can some of the Korea University Tigers make the grade? “Sure. Depending on their career or their family situation but some of these guys should be on the national team in years to come – if they can stick with it.” Will he still be coaching next year? “No question about it. One of my coaches always said, “Love football and it’ll love you back.” If you put your passion and dedication into it, you’ll see the results. I love the game. And I want to help, wherever I am, and whether that’s coaching, playing, whatever...”

Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)

unday morning in North Seoul and two American football teams are hammering away at each other. The pitch is dirt, it is dusty, and the hits are uncompromising. The heat is frankly brutal. The final whistle blows and each team huddles up before going to the opposing sideline and bowing before the coaches. They trot back across the pitch and they do the same to their team’s coaches. From among the coaches, one American accent is heard shouting out congratulations to the players. Now it’s helmets off and the players go into a huddle where they hear further congratulations alongside a few home truths. “You didn’t always want it enough today. We talked about that during the week; we need more focus

SPORTS

Story by Liam Ring / Photos courtesy of D. J. Battistella

LISTINGS Edited by Sean Choi (sean@groovekorea.com)

EMBASSIES American Embassy (02) 397-4114 • 188 Sejong-daero, Jongno-gu, Seoul Canadian Embassy (02) 3783-6000 • (613) 996-8885 (Emergency Operations Center) Jeongdonggil (Jeong-dong) 21, Jung-gu, Seoul British Embassy (02) 3210-5500 • Sejong-daero 19-gil 24, Jung-gu, Seoul Australian Embassy (02) 2003-0100 • 19th fl, Kyobo bldg., 1 Jongno 1-ga, Jongno-gu, Seoul Philippine Embassy (02) 796-7387~9 • 5-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Spanish Embassy (02) 794-3581 • 726-52 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul French Embassy (02) 3149-4300 • 30 Hap-dong, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul

HOTELS & RESORTS Banyan Tree Club & Spa Seoul (02) 2250-8080 • San 5-5, Jangchung-dong 2-ga Jung-gu, Seoul

Novotel Ambassador Gangnam (02) 567-1101 • 603 Yeoksam 1-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

Seoul Samsung Hospital 1599-3114 • 50 Irwon-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

Grand Hilton Seoul (02) 3216-5656 • 353 Yeonhui-ro, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul

Asan Medical Center 1688-7575 • 88 Olympic-ro 43-gil, Songpa-gu, Seoul

Somerset Palace Seoul (02) 6730-8888 • 85 Susong-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul

Keimyung University Dongsan Medical Center (053) 250-7167 (7177 / 7187) • 56 Dalseong-ro, Jung-gu, Daegu

Park Hyatt Seoul (02) 2016-1234 • 606 Teheran-ro, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Lotte Hotel Busan (051) 810-1000 • 772 Gaya-daero, Busanjin-gu, Busan Park Hyatt Busan (051) 990-1234 • 51, Marine City 1-ro, Haeundae-gu, Busan 612-824, Korea

Airlines Korean Air 1588-2001 Asiana Airlines 1588-8000

FAMILY & KIDS INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS Yongsan Intl. School (02) 797-5104 • San 10-213 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Seoul Intl. School (031) 750-1200 • 388-14 Bokjeong-dong, Sujeong-gu, Seongnam, Gyeonggi-do Branksome Hall Asia (02) 6456-8405 • Daejung-eup, Seogipo-si, Jeju Island Daegu Intl. School (053) 980-2100 • 1555 Bongmu-dong, Dong-gu, Daegu

Lufthansa (02) 2019-0180

Dulwich College Seoul

Garuda Indonesia (02) 773-2092 • garuda-indonesia.co.kr

Dulwich College Seoul offers an exemplary British-style international education (including IGCSE and IBDP) for over 600 expatriate students aged 2 to 18 from over 40 different countries. 6 Sinbanpo-ro 15-gil, Seocho-gu, Seoul, Korea. www.dulwich-seoul.kr admissions@dulwich-seoul.kr 02-3015-8500

EMERGENCY MEDICAL CENTERS Jeju Air 1599-1500 Gangnam St-Mary’s Hospital 1588-1511 • 222 Banpo-daero, Seocho-gu, Seoul

T’way Air 1688-8686

Yonsei Severance Hospital (Sinchon) (02) 2227-7777 • 50 Yonsei-ro, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul

British Airways (02) 774-5511

Seoul National University Hospital 1339 • 28-2 Yeongeon-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul

Delta Airlines (02) 754-1921

Jin Air 1600-6200

Cathay Pacific Airways (02) 311-2700

Emirates Airlines (02) 2022-8400

D ETUR

PO NS MU

NDO

Eton House Prep (02) 749-8011 • 68-3 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul A unique British-style Prep School for children of all nationalities from 2-13 years of age. A broad, challenging and innovative curriculum preparing pupils for senior school and life beyond. / www.etonhouseprep.com AMUSEMENT PARKS Everland Resort (031) 320-5000 • 310 Jeondae-ri, Pogok-eup, Cheoin-gu, Yongin-si, Gyeonggi-do Lotte World (02) 411-2000 0 • 240 Olympic-ro, Songpa-gu, Seoul Pororo Park (D-Cube city) 1661-6340 • 360-51 Sindorim-dong, Guro-gu, Seoul Children’s Grand Park (zoo) (02) 450-9311 • 216 Neungdong-ro, Gwangjin-gu, Seoul Seoul Zoo (02) 500-7338 • 159-1 Makgye-dong, Gwacheon-si, Gyeonggi-do BOOKSTORES What the Book? (02) 797-2342 • 176-2, Itaewon 1-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul • whatthebook.com Located in Itaewon, this English bookstore has new books, used books and children’s books. Kim & Johnson 1566-0549 • B2 fl-1317-20 Seocho-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul

HEALTH ORIENTAL MEDICINE Lee Moon Won Korean Medicine Clinic (02) 511-1079 • 3rd fl., Lee&You bldg. 69-5 Chungdam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Specializes in hair loss and scalp problems and offers comprehensive treatments and services including aesthetic and hair care products. Soseng Clinic (02) 2253-8051 • 368-90 Sindang 3-dong, Jung-gu, Seoul Yaksan Obesity Clinic (02) 582-4246 • 1364-7, Seocho 2-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul • www.dryaksan.com FITNESS Exxl Fitness Gangnam Finance Center, 737 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul • www.exxl.co.kr Daily Morning Ashtanga Yoga Mysore Classes (English) Jivamukti, Forrest, Universal Yoga (Korean) Apgujeong Rodeo Stn, Exit 4 (02) 515-6011• www.taoyoga.kr UROLOGY & OB Tower Urology (02) 2277-6699 • 5th fl. 119 Jongno 3-ga, Jongno-gu, Seoul

Animal hospitals Chunghwa Animal Hospital / Korea Animal Transport (02) 792-7602 • 21-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul / www.cwhospital.com

Hair & Joy Served as Art Director at London’s Renowned RUSH SALON and nominated by the Guardian for “Best Hairdresser”

Woori Pet Hospital (02) 393-6675 • 299-1 Youngcheon-dong, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul

MUSEUM & GALLERIES National Museum of Korea (02) 2077-9000 • 168-6 Yongsandong 6-ga, Yongsan-gu, Seoul The NMK offers educational programs on Korean history and culture in English and Korean. National Palace Museum of Korea (02) 3701-7500 • 12 Hyoja-ro, Jongno-gu, Seoul This museum has a program called Experiencing Royal Culture designed for English teachers to help learn about Joseon royal culture. Seodaemun Museum of Natural History (02) 330-8899 • 141-52 Yeonhui-dong, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul Don’t know where to take your kids on weekends? This museum exhibits a snapshot of the world and animals. National Museum of Contemporary Art, Korea (02) 2188-6000 • 313 Gwangmyeong-ro, Gwacheon-si, Gyeonggi-do Leeum Samsung Museum of Art (02) 2014-6901• 747-18 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul 10:30 a.m.-6 p.m. Closed on Mondays, New Year’s Day, Lunar New Year and Chuseok holidays. Kumho Museum (02) 720-5114 • 78 Sagan-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul 10 a.m.-6 p.m. Closed on Mondays. Gallery Hyundai (02) 734-6111~3 • 22 Sagan-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul The first specialized art gallery in Korea and accommodates contemporary art. 10 a.m.-6 p.m. Closed on Mondays, New Year’s Day, Lunar New Year and Chuseok holidays. Plateau (02) 1577-7595 • 50 Taepyung-ro 2-ga, Jung-gu, Seoul 10 a.m.-6 p. m. Closed on Mondays. National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art, Seoul (MMCA SEOUL) (02) 3701-9500 • 30 Samcheong-ro, Sogyeok-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul Daegu Art Museum (053) 790-3000 • 374 Samdeok-dong, Suseong-gu, Daegu Art space for local culture presenting Daegu’s contemporary fine arts and internationally renowned artists.

Trained at Toni & Guy and Vidal Sassoon Academy in UK Color, Perm, Magic Straight, Treatment and more English Spoken For more info, call Johnny Phone 02.363.4253 Mobile 010.5586.0243

Hair&Joy

Mapo-gu Dong gyo-dong 168-3_ 3F Seven Uniqlo Springs

HonhIk Univ. Stn. Line2 Exit8

www.hairandjoy.com Gangnam Apgujeong Branch

Qunohair

Phone 02.549.0335 www.qunohair.com 10-6, Dosan-daero 45-gil, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

T-M-A-S Total Martial Arts System SPECIALIZING IN TRAINING MARTIAL ARTS FOR EXPAT Established in 2008, we are the first and only professional martial arts studio tailored toward the foreign adult and child community in Korea. Over the last 8 years we have trained 2000+ expat students from 32 countries in a traditional Korean syllabus. Our instructors are highly experienced in teaching both adults and children of all ages and levels, from toddler to professional fighter. All classes are conducted in English by certified Korean Masters! Total martial arts system www.t-m-a-s.com 02-796-7976/ 010-8944-2198 totalmartialartssystem@gmail.com TMAS

Hamilton Hotel

Itaewon Main St. Tom N Toms

Gecko’s

Olive Young

For free trail lesson please contact to totalmartialartssystem @gmail.com or 010-8944-2198

From exit 1 of itaewon Station, go straight towards Nosapyeong for 70 meters, We are on the third floor, directly across the street from Tom n Tom’s Coffee.

Itaewon (including Haebangchon and Gyeongnidan) Garosugil l Seochon l Hongdae Myeong-dong l Yeonnam-dong

The establishments on our maps are carefully selected and based solely on recommendations from our editors, foodies and readers. Groove strictly separates these pages from commercial advertisements. These maps are only intended to serve the interests and cravings of our readers

R1 Bao Asian A4 (02) 797-4769 • 658 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

지도상의 업장들은 Groove Korea의 기자, 음식 전문가, 독자들의 객관적인 의견을 반영하여 세심하게 선별된 곳들입니다. 대부분의 업장들은 Groove Korea가 직접 방문한 후 꼼꼼한 평가를 통해 독자들에게 자신있게 추천하는 소위 ‘HOT’ 한 곳들이며, 해당 지역을 연인, 가족 혹은 친구들과 방문할 때 기분좋은 경험을 하실 수 있도록 제작되었습니다. 지도상의 업장들은 매달 업데이트가 되며, 광고와는 무관합니다.

Pick up GROOVE at your local Over 570 locations throughout Korea

National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art, Grand Hilton Seoul Seoul branch H Samcheongdong / Gyeongbokgung Bukchon Gwanghwamun (Palace) Square Daehakro (Hyehwa-dong) Somerset Palace Seoul Insadong Sinchon (Yonsei Univ. & H Myeong Ewha Womans Univ.) H dong Dongdaemun Deoksugung Lotte Hotel Seoul Market Sheraton Grande Hongdae (Hongik Univ.) (Palace) H Walkerhill H Banyan Tree Seoul Esarang N Seoul Tower H Grand Hyatt Seoul Today Dental Clinic Itaewon Dental Lee Moon Won Korean Medicine Conrad Seoul H Olympic Park Clinic 63 City Building Garosugil National Museum COEX H Lotte World H H H H of Korea Sheraton Seoul D Cube Novotel Park Hyatt Seoul City Hotel H The Ambassador JW Marriott Ritz-Carlton Gangnam Grand Intercontinental Seoul Seoul Gangnam Seoul Seoul Parnas Bright Eye Clinic Gangnam Station Seoul Arts Center

Today Dental 3 Fl., 630-19 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul 1899-2854 Dental clinic specialized in cosmetic and general dentistry including dental implant and laminate.

RESTAURANT Shopping

R17 R5

We carry Platinum craft Beer

R5 Casablanca Moroccan A2 (02) 797-8367 • 44-8 Yongsan-dong 2-ga, Yongsan-gu, Seoul R8

R6 Pizzarium Pizza A5 (02) 312-7580 • 529 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

R18

Hanjin Villa

Hansin Apts.

R19

Buy the Way cvs

MG Community Credit Cooperatives

Wellbeing Mart Seoul Digitech High School

IBK R22 L9 L11 L10 R1

R8 HBC Gogitjib Korean bbq A2 (02) 796-5528 • 46-5 Yongsandong 2-ga, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

R23

C2 L1

GS25 cvs R3

R24

L7 Maloney’s Pub & Grill Pub b3 (02) 3785-1675 • 225-67 Itaewon 2-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

R13

Deoksugung (Palace) The changing of the Royal Guard and the patrol ritual take place here. The palace is unique for its modern seal engraving and a Western-style garden and fountain. N Seoul Tower Formerly known as Namsan Tower. Its main attractions include multicolored digital art projected onto the tower at night, a digital observatory and a roof terrace. Cheonggyecheon (stream) An 11-kilometer-long modern stream that runs through downtown Seoul, created as part of an urban renewal project. Cheonggyecheon is a restoration of the stream that existed during the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910). Myeongdong Cathedral Myeongdong Cathedral is the very first Roman Catholic parish church in Korea. It is also the first Gothic building ever built in Korea and was designated as Historic site No. 285 in Korea.

National Museum of Korea The six-story building of the National Museum of Korea is ranked as the sixth-largest museum in the world. 63 City Building The 63 City skyscraper is a Yeouido landmark commanding spectacular views of the city. Standing 249 meters high and comprising 60 floors and three basement levels, 63 City is one of Korea’s tallest and most recognized buildings. Dongdaemun Market It is Korea’s largest wholesale and retail shopping district featuring 26 shopping malls, 30,000 speciality shops and 50,000 manufacturers. All kinds of goods can be found here including silk and fabric, clothes, shoes and accessories, electronics, leather goods, sporting goods, office supplies, pet products and toys. Gwanghwamun Square Gwanghwamun Square is divided into six sections. At its center stands a statue of King Sejong the Great, the fourth and most respected king of the Joseon Dynasty and creator of Hangeul, the Korean alphabet; and a statue of Admiral Yi Sunshin, a naval commander noted for his victories against the Japanese navy during the Japanese invasions of Korea (1592-1598) and a national hero.

Lotte World Opened in 1989, Lotte World is a major recreation National Museum of Modern and complex in downtown Seoul. It consists of Indoor Contemporary Art, Seoul branch Adventure (the world’s largest indoor theme park), Opened in 2013, the MMCA consists of a small number an outdoor theme park called Magic Island, a luxury of separate national art museums focusing on different hotel, the Korean Folk Museum, shopping malls, aspects of post-19th-century art. The Seoul museum department stores, sports facilities and a movie spotlights “cutting-edge and international art.” theater, all in one place.

R12

Grand Hyatt Seoul 322 Sowol-ro, Yongsan-gu, Seoul / (02) 797-1234 The Ritz-Carlton Seoul 120 Bongeunsa-ro, Gangnam-gu, Seoul (02) 3451-8000

Itaewon Post Office

Conrad Seoul 23-1 Yeouido-dong, Youngdeungpo-gu, Seoul (02) 6137-7000 Park Hyatt Seoul 606 Teheran-ro, Gangnam-gu, Seoul (02) 2016-1234 Sheraton Grande Walkerhill 177 Walkerhill-ro, Gwangjin-gu, Seoul (02) 2022-0000 JW Marriott Seoul 176 Shinbanpo-ro, Seocho-gu, Seoul (02) 6282-6262 Grand Intercontinental Seoul Parnas 521 Teheran-go, Gangnam-gu, Seoul (02) 555-5656

Pacific Mansion Gold

R9 The Booth Pizza b3 (02) 1544-4723 • 705 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

CU cvs Rose Hill Villa

Itaewon Cheil Church

Itaewon Elementary School

Hyundai Villa

2 Itaewon Villa

Green Mart

ksa

pye

ong

R19 Kkaolli pochana Thai B3 (070) 8872-1995 • 706 Itaewon 2-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul A hole-in-the-wall Thai restaurant serving real Thai with generous portions at cheap price.

L6 Bonny’s Pizza & Pub Pub A2 (02) 792 0303 • 44-17 Yongsan-dong 2-ga, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

R15

Gyeongbokgung (Palace) Gyeongbokgung was the first royal palace built by the Joseon Dynasty in 1395, three years after the dynasty was founded. Gyeongbokgung served as the main palace of the Joseon Dynasty and represented its sovereignty. It is the largest of the Five Grand Palaces, the others being Gyeonghuigung, Deoksugung, Changgyeonggung and Changdeokgung.

C2 The Baker’s Table Bakery Cafe A3 070-7717-3501 • 691 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul R4 Burger Mine Burgers A2 070-8263-2034 • 45-9 Yongsan-dong 2-ga, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

Namsan Daerim Apts.

Dr.Kim’s Skin Laser & Esthetic Clinic (은피부과) 3 Fl., 85-2 Cheongdam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul (02) 546-3322 Offering a comprehensive dermatological services for all ages and skins Gangnam Seoul Bright Eye Clinic 18 & 19 Fl., Mijin Plaza, 390 Gangnam-daero, Gangnam-gu, Seoul / 1588-3882 Experienced staffs with 10.000+ operations of LASIK & LASEK.

R3 Buddha’s Belly Thai A4 (02) 793-2173 • 673 Itaewon 2-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

PUB / LOUNGE

Oracle Clinic (Chungdam branch) 333 Bongeunsa-ro, Gangnam-gu, Seoul 1800-7588 Dermatologic and plastic surgery clinic with the largest number of branches in Korea 70+ overseas and domestic. Esarang Dental Clinic 26-16 Singongdeok-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul (02) 701-2199 Its internationally trained staff welcomes patients with heartfelt smiles.

Hair salon / spa

R10

Hanjin Villa

Lee Moon Won Korean Medicine Clinic 3rd Fl., Lee & You Bldg., 69-5 Cheongdam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul / (02) 511-1079 Treatment for hair loss and scalp problems. One-stop services including aesthetic and hair care products.

Starbucks

Cafe / Bakery / DESSERT

L1 Magpie Brewing Microbrewery A3 (02) 742-2849 • 691 Itaewon 2-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

R10 Jacoby’s Burgers Burgers A1 (02) 3785-0433 • 45-6 Yongsan-dong 2-ga, Yongsan-gu, Seoul R12 Taco Chili Chili Mexican A5 (02) 797-7219 • 527 Itaewon 2-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul R13 Trevia Italian A4 (02) 794-6003• 557 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Their pizzas are Roman-style; the thin, crispy dough comes out of the oven literally smoking hot. R15 Mi Madre Spanish A4 (02) 790-7875 • 568 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

Stn

L9 Craftworks Taphouse Microbrewery A3 (02) 794-2537 • 238 Noksapyeong-daero, Yongsan-gu, Seoul The first expat-owned microbrewery in Korea still offers some of the best brews around. Try out their seasonal tastes in a warm and inviting ambience.

R17 Kusina Filipino A2 (02) 790-1826 • 44-7 Yongsan-dong 2-ga, Yongsan-gu, Seoul R18 Pizzaria Retro Italian B3 (02) 749-8947 • 712 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul L10 The Springs tap house craft beer A4 (02) 795-7732 • 238 Noksapyeong-daero, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

Somerset Palace Seoul 7 Yulgokro 2-gil, Jongro-gu, Seoul (02) 6730-8888

S1 The Nail Bar NAIL SHOP B4 (02) 794-8549 • Manicure, pedicure, tanning and waxing

L11 Pier 39 bar A4 (02) 749-0339 • 658 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

Novotel Ambassador Gangnam 130 Bongeunsa-ro, Gangnam-gu, Seoul (02) 567-1101

R23 MEATBALLISM Burger C3 (02) 792-5161 • 225-143 Itaewon 2-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

R22 Don Charly MEXICAN A4 (070) 8154-4475 • 250-12 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Authentic Mexican by Mexican chef

Banyan Tree Club & Spa Seoul San 5-5, Jangchung-dong 2-ga Jung-gu, Seoul (02) 2250-8080

L13 UPPER DECK Sports bar B3 (02) 749-1223 • 305-5 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul. American sports bar & Grill

R24 ROBOT kimbap Kimbap A4 (02) 794-9595 • 563 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

C3 Street Churros Dessert Café A4 (02) 792-1489 • 557 Itaewon 2-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

C4 Once Upon A Milkshake Dessert Café A3 (070) 7435-3513 • 638 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

ITAEWON (GYEOngnidan & HAEbangchon)

Maps

OCTOBER 2015

Yongsandong Apts.

Embassy of The Republic of the Philippines

2 1

Hangangjin Stn.

ITAEWON (GYEOngnidan & HAEbangchon)

Itaewon (OVERVIEW)

Grand Hyatt Seoul Hotel

R14

Leeum Museum

R15 F4

Itaewon Elementary School

ITAEWON (main)

R23

ksa

R11

pye 3 ong S

tn.

L10

R2 Linus BBQ SANDWICH B3 (02) 790-2920 • 56-20 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Pulled pork sandwich, Brisket sandwich, coleslaw, mac and cheese

R11 On The Border Mexican D3 (02) 792-0682 www.ontheborder.co.kr Authentic Mexican restaurant with homemade dishes and freshest ingredients with 25 margaritas to choose from.

L3 Reilly’s Taphouse bar C3 (02) 792-6590 • 3F. 123-32 Itaewon 1-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Reilly’s Taphouse boasts some 20 draft beers and is committed to carrying the best craft brews from Korea and around the world. R7 Joongsim Korean B3 (02) 2235-0707 • 34-39 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

RESTAURANT

We carry Platinum craft Beer

R19

R9 Le Saigon Vietnamese B3 (02) 792-0336 • 74-33 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

F1 What The Book English bookstore B3 (02) 797-4342 • 2F. 176-2 Itaewon 1-dong, Yongsan-gu,Seoul Located in Itaewon, this English bookstore has new books, used books and childrens’ books. www.whatthebook.com

Hair salon / spa

Shopping

L1 Craftworks Taphouse Microbrewery A1 (02) 794-2537 • 238 Noksapyeong-daero, Yongsan-gu, Seoul The first expat-owned microbrewery in Korea still offers some of the best brews around. Try out their seasonal tastes in a warm and inviting ambience. R1 HBC Gogitjib (Haebangchon branch) A1 Korean bbq (02) 796-5528 • 46-5 Yongsandong 2-ga, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

R4 Vatos Urban Tacos Mexican B3 (02) 797-8226 • 181-8 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul A unique ambience makes this upscale restaurant an ideal place to fill your stomach with authentic favorites.

R16

PUB / LOUNGE

R2 C2

Cheil L7

Cafe / Bakery / DESSERT

IP Boutique Hotel

L3 Hamilton Hotel 2 1 Itaewon Stn. 3 4

Hannam Foreigner’s Apts.

Bokwang Elementary School

L5 Wolfhound Irish pub C3 (02) 749-7971 • 128-6 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul L7 Rocky Mountain Tavern bar D3 010-6654-7202 • 736-12 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

C2 The Lab Store by STREET CHURROS CafE A3 • 34-42 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

R15 Nari Jib Korean bbq D2 (02) 793-4860 • 738-24 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Samgyupsal and Cheonggukjang (pork BBQ and soybean paste pot stew) C3 Richesse Velours Cafe D2 (02) 797-8878 • 741-17 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Try its signature dessert menu item, bottled cupcakes. S2 One Spa Therapy SPA & massage D2 (02) 749-0409 • 3rd fl., 124-7 Itaewon 1-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul, Spa and massage packages starts at 20,000w. R16 Gida Sushi Japanese D2 (02) 749-3558 • 683-125 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Sushi bar with reasonable prices. L8 Yuda Japanese bar D2 (02) 388-5081 • 683-126 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul L9 Muntaro Japanese bar D2 (02) 796-7232 • 683-124 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

F3 High Street Market Grocery shop for imported items D3 (02) 2201-0652 • 727-24 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul One-stop shop for imported groceries and coveted deli products.

L10 Bull & Barrel Sports bar B3 (010) 9982-2423 • 44-82, Itaewon 1-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul A new hybrid bar and restaurant with a huge terrace and roof top and a state-of-the-art Dart Bar to throw at.

F4 Beaker Shopping D2 (070) 4118-5216 • 738-36 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Discover a wide array of fashion items by the best international designers including James Perse, Aspesi, Rag&Bone, Vince, Jack Spade and more.

R19 Left Coast Artisan burgers BURGER C3 (02) 6248-2998 • 131-20 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu. Seoul

R14 Pizzeria D’Buzza Italian E1 (02) 794-9474 • 743-33 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul This trendy joint has a full range of Italian fare. Make sure to make a reservation.

Place to relax and unwind Oriental massage and Spa packages for couples available

R23 Miya Got The Balls Italian A3 (070) 4231-4346 • 549, Itaewon 2-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Korean-American chef from Master Chef Korea serving homemade meatballs, pasta and porchetta.

ONE SPA THERAPY

Foot massage 20,000w Full body massage starts at 30,000w

02-749-0409 (02) 793-2344

This tropical resort-themed lounge is a getaway from bustling city.

Seoul, Yongsan-gu, Itaewon-dong 112-3 Sun-Thu: 4:30 pm – 3 am Fri-Sat: 4:30 pm – 5 am

3rd fl. 124-7 Itaewon 1-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

(3 mins from Itaewon subway stn.)

10am – 5am

ITAEWON (MAIN)

Cafe / Bakery / DESSERT Hair salon / spa

RESTAURANT PUB / LOUNGE Shopping We carry Platinum craft Beer

L10 L19 L11

R14

R11

R16

D’oro Hotel

R6 L17

R10 L9 L8

R22 R2

R13

Hamilton Hotel L1

L16

Shinhan Bank

T-M-A-S

Itaewon Stn.

R20

Itaewon Fire Station

R17

L13

L18 R21

7-Eleven cvs

IBK

ITW Hotel

CU cvs CU cvs

R19

R1 Bulldogs HOTDOG D4 (02) 6248-2998 • 131-20 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu. Seoul R2 HBC Gogitjib (Itaewonbranch) Korean bbq A2 (02) 796-5528 • 118-9 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

L13 Dillinger’s pub B3 (02) 793-7232 • 72-32 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

R19 Marrakech Night Moroccan D4 (02) 795-9441 • 131-3 Itaewon-dong

R10 Maple Tree House Korean bbq C2 (02) 790-7977 • 116-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

L16 Reilly’s Taphouse bar D2 (02) 792-6590 • 3F. 123-32 Itaewon 1-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

R11 Ho Lee Chow Chinese C2 (02) 793-0802 • 119-25 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul L1

L10 All that Jazz Jazz club D2 (02) 795-5701 • 112-4 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

R21 Un Deux Trois French D2 (02) 796-1244 • 123-33 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul An authentic French brasserie where traditions and trends mix, symbolizing a Parisian way of life

R13 My Thai Asian D2 (02) 794-8090 • 123-20 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

L17

R14

L1 Rose & Crown pub A2 (02) 794-2555 • 118-23 Itaewon 1-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Classic British pub specializes in ales and carries 40+ draft and bottled beers R5 Zelen Bulgarian B2 (02) 749-0600 • 116-14 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul R6 Le saint EX French B2 (02) 795-2465 • 119-28 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul L5 Baby Guinness pub B2 (02) 792-2777 • 119-17 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul R7 Pattaya Thai B2 (02) 793-4888 • 116-14 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul L6 Gecko’s Avenue Lounge C2 (02) 790-0540 • 116-6 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

R14 Jonny Dumpling 2 Chinese D2 (02) 790-8839 • 123-5 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

L17 The Glamping Bar&Grill A2 (02) 792-3189 • 171-23 Itaewon-dong L11 Jeon Mandang Korean bar D2 Recreate the feel of outdoor camping (070) 8749-5004 • 118-18 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul and BBQ cuisine in the warm indoors. L9 Prost pub C2 (02) 796-6854 • 116-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

R18 Don Valley Korean bbq C3 (02) 796-2384 • 127-12 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul R22 Battered Sole Fish & Chips A2 (02) 749-6867• 2 fl., 118-9 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

L8 Glam Lounge C2 (010) 2657-6853 • 116-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul R17 Gecko’s Terrace American C3 (02) 749-9425128-5 • Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul L8

R17

L18 Hollywood Grill Bar&Grill D2 (02) 749-1659 • 123-33 Itaewon 1-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul One of Itaewon’s favorite expat haunts. A real sports bar famed for its burgers and its broad range of pub fare. L19 The Bungalow Bar D2 (02) 793-2344 • 112-3 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul This tropical resort-themed lounge is a getaway from bustling city. L19

GArosugil (sinsa-dong)

Cafe / Bakery / DESSERT Hair salon / spa

R1 Elbon the table Italian A1 (02) 547-4100 • 530-5 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

RESTAURANT PUB / LOUNGE 1

Shopping

cvs

Shingu

cvs

C1 La Eskimo Bakery B2 (02) 512-9244 • 546-3 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

Elementary School

7-Eleven

Starbucks

Imagestar

R4 Spain club Spanish A2 (02) 515-1118 • 524-30 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

C11

C12 C1

R6 The Original Pancake House Pancake A3 (02) 511-7481 • 523-20 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

C2 R6

R19

Hindol Villa

GS25 cvs

R10 R9 f3

C4 Godiva chocolate B3 (02) 517-3979 • 545-6 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

C8 C9

R11

R9 Sarubia Italian B4 (02) 540-7344 • 542-3 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

f2 f1

R10 Hansung Mungo B4

CU cvs

Japanese Ramyeon (02) 543-7901 • 2F. 542-3 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

L2 7-Eleven cvs

R11 Taco Chili Chili Mexican A4 (02) 545-1705 • 535-9 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

Starbucks R12

C2 Ikovox coffee Cafe A3 (02) 545-2010 • 534-10 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul R7 buccella sandwich B3 (02) 517-7339 • 534-22 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

R14

C6 Coffee Smith Cafe B5 (02) 3445-3372 • 536-12 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

IBK

GS25 cvs

R16

Sin

. Stn

R15

S-oil gas Station

Youngdong Hotel

R19 Ozit Gastro pub B3 • 544-5 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul New addition to Garosugil serving sandwich, burgers and salads with the finest craft beer.

R16 Songok Korean b5 (02) 545-3297 • 2 fl.537-7 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Since 1961, it’s been serving one of Korea’s best UDON, SOBA and DONKATSU. Strongly recommended for casual dining.

L5 De Chou Lounge C4 (02) 514-2014 • B1 fl. 540-19 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Carries unique Korean traditional soju not found in anywhere else. Pricey but absolutely worth exploring masterpieces by local brewers.

Hyundai Motors

Geumcheongyo Market

Kia Motors

2 CU cvs

3 Gyeongbokg

ung Stn. (Line3)

L2 Bob Dylan & The Band Pub C3 (02) 739-6565 • 90 Chebu-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul 8pm - 2am

R1 Chebudong Janchijib (체부동잔치집) Korean D3 (02) 730-5420 • 190 Chebu-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoula Perilla seed noodle, seafood and green onion jeon (pancake) and spicy noodle recommended. 9:30 am – 1 am L1 Seochon Kyedanjib (서촌계단집) Pub C3 (02) 737-8412 • 11-1 Naeja-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul Two thumbs up! The best seafood tent-bar in Seoul. Serves the freshest seafood of the season daily delivered directly from the local fishermen.

R4 JeoNDaegamdaek (전대감댁) Korean C3 (070) 4202-5170 • 184 Chebu-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul Serves unique and various kinds of Makeoli. Its menu items are perfect for meals as well. L3 Cheolpannam (철판남) Pub A2 (070) 8776-6001 • 155-2 Philun-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul Teppan Yaki bar with Wagyu (Kobe) beef steak Reasonable steak menu price starting at 15,000 won. L4 Philun Sanghye (필운상회) Pub A2 Opened by the same owner of Cheolpannam (iron-pan man), serves anju to go with soju. Customers can order from Cheolpannam menu as well.

L7 Hyoja Barbe (효자바베) Pub B2 (070) 8749-0019 • 210-3 Chebu-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul Pork bbq, chicken and grilled prawns starting at 25,000 won.

L5 Anju Maeul (안주마을)

C12 Mercy Juice JUICE B2 (02) 547-3595 • 551-11 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Cleanses using 100% supernatural cold-pressed juice

C11 Remicone ICECREAM B2 (02) 6207-1029 • 547-12 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Ice cream haven.

L4 Hanchu PUB B1 (02) 541-0969 • 549-9 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Awarded ‘The best crispy fried chicken in Seoul’ by Chowzter. Get a side of pork stuffed and fried chili peppers.

R15 Yum Thai Thai C5 (02) 594-7988 •5-4 Nonhyun-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

R4 R3

Dunkin Donuts

Paris Baguette

C9 Ben’s Cookies Cookies A4 (02) 514-0051 • 518-10 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

R14 March Rabbit Veggie C3 (02) 3444-4514 • 560 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

Starbucks

Church

f2 8 seconds Shopping B4 (070) 7090-1144 • 535-12 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

f3 Ralph Lauren POLO Shopping B4 • 535-18 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

C8 Tokyo Panya Bakery C4 (02) 547-7790 • 543-8 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul f1 Massimo Dutti Shopping B4 (02) 545-6172 • 541-7 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

L2 Wanso Izakaya C4 (02) 3444-2021 • 539-4 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

7-eleven cvs

R12 Bibigo Korean B5 (02) 544-7423 • 2F. 537-5 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

Seochon (서촌), located west of the Gyeongbokgung Palace, literally “West village” / “Western village”, is one of the oldest neighborhoods of Seoul, traditionally associated with Joseon era and Korean literature. Long neglected compared to the wealthier Bukchon (on the other side of the palace), Seochon has reclaimed part of its popularity, particularly following the protection of one of Seoul’s largest clusters of hanok (over 600), and the renovation of landmarks to host cultural venues. Experience the warm memories of the hidden old alleys of Seochon

R2 Vatos Urban Tacos Mexican A1 (02) 548-8226 • 532-11 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

We carry Platinum craft Beer

Seochon

R2 Tongyoung Sangsungui (통영생선구이) Korean C3 (02) 739-3322 • 20 Naeja-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul Grilled fish and seafood restaurant

R3 Simsanae (심산애) Korean B3 (02) 734-1112 • 205-1 Philun-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul Strongly recommended its Deodeok Makeoli made of mountain herb harvested be the owner a real ginseng digger.

Pub D3 (02) 723-3529 • 1-2 Naej a-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul Cooked octopus and boiled cockles

L6 Passion Potato (열정감자) Pub C3 (070) 7778-4676 • 24 Naeja-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul Fried potatoes with various seasonings and coffee draught beer and citrus draught beer.

L8 Seochon 181 (서촌181) JAPANESE PUB C2 (02) 733-0181 • 181 Chebu-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul Japanese casual pub with many sake menu.

L9 Killi BanBan (킬리뱅뱅) PUB C3 (010) 5737-0852 • 23 Naeja-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul Spanish Hipster pub carrying the finest Platinum beer.

HongDae (HongIK Univ.)

5 Ho ng

Cafe / Bakery / DESSERT

Hair salon / spa .

Stn

Lotte Cinema S1

n St ik ng 8

RESTAURANT

PUB / LOUNGE

Stn

DANCE CLUB

We carry Platinum craft Beer

KFC

Coffee Bean R4 R1

Seokyo Elementary School

V-HALL

R17

Seokyo Prugio Apts. C1

Bobo Hotel

Smoothie King

VELOSO D7

Halla Mansion

D12

R16

Lotte Cinema

9 8

KT&G SangsangMadang

D9 L1

R11 R8

7-Eleven cvs

C2 C3

5 Ha

o je

R12

R13

2 1

Wau Park

PRISM HALL

D11

Hongik University

CLUB GOGOS CLUB TA 打 D10 CLUB EVANS CLUB FF R2

Jungang heights Apts.

St 6 n. 7

Freebird2 EVANS LOUNGE

Wau Park

R10 R18 C5

1 Sangsu Stn. 4

2 3

C1 Paul & Paulina Bakery C2 (02) 333-0185 • 344-6 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

C3 Museum café aA Cafe b3 (02) 3143-7312 • 408-11 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

R1 Primo Baciobaci Italian C1 (02) 323-0098 • 346-47 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

C4 Okrumong Cafe b3 (02) 325-4040 • 402-18 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

D1 Club Freebird 2 (Big Bird) Club b3 (02) 335-4576 408-17 Seogyo-dong, mapo-gu, Seoul Club playing live music by local artists and bands facebook.com/clubfreebird2

C2 Peony Cafe b3 (02) 333-5325 • 403-15 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

R10 Pakumori Curry Japanese curry b3 (02) 322-5001 • 411-15 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

D2 Club NB Club / hip-hop C2 • 362-4 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoull

R2 Yoonsi Milbang Korean C3 (02) 3143-4116 • 411-6 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

C5 Kyo bakery Bakery b3 (02) 794-5090 • 317-7 Sangsoo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

D5 Club M2 Club / electronic b2 • 367-11 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

R3 Sunny the Grill Italian b3 (02) 337-8951 • 401-19 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

R11 Hongdae Jopok Dukpoki Korean b3 (02) 337-9933 • 407-21 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

D6 Club Mansion Club / electronic b2 • 368-22 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

R4 La Paella Spanish C1 (02) 322-8870 • 2F. 345-3 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

R12 Aloha Table Hawaiian b2 (02) 324-7718 • 364-14 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

D7 Club Freebird Club / live music b2 • 364-22 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

R5 Hakadabunko Japanese RAMEN c3 (02) 338-5536 • 93-28 Sangsoo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

R13 Agio Italian C2 (02) 322-8133 • 364-6 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

D9 Club DGBD Club / live music b3 • 395-17 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

S1 Hair & Joy Hair Salon C1 (02) 363-4253 • 3F. 168-3 Donggyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

R16 Yeonga Korean BBQ b2 (02) 336-9992 • 366-13 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

D10 Club Gogos Club / rock c3 • 407-8 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

L1 Castle Praha Pub b3 (02) 337-6644 • 395-19 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

R17 Gusto Taco Mexican C2 (02) 3142-8226 • 342-16 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul Mexican traditionalism done right: an efficient balance of flavor and texture.

D11 Club NB2 Club / hip-hop C2 • 361-10 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

R8 No Stress Kitchen Italian b3 (02) 6083-1252 • 404-8 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

L2 Platinum Beer Pub Pub with craft beer C1 (070) 4143-8081• 345-24 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

D12 Club Cocoon Club / hip-hop C2 • 364-26 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

#liveishere Every last Friday on the month! Get your pass at 20,000 won, Access 10 hottest and funkiest clubs in Hongdae!

Myeong-dong

R1 Yeonnam Blues Restaurant/bar B4 (02) 325-1478 • 150-6 Donggyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul Wines, cocktails, beer or even soju well go with its menu items. Groove recommends Halla tonic (Hallasan soju mixed with tonic) and spicy seafood stew.

Euljiro 1(il)-ga Stn. 8 7 1 Lotte Hotel

7-Eleven cvs

5 6

KEB

Seoul

Mr. Pizza

R8 Soiyeonnam 소이연남 THAI C2 (02) 323-5130 • 229-67 Yeonnam-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

Yeonnam-dong Community Service Center

R9 Lie Lie Lie Vietnamese C3 (010) 2880-7973 • 227-5 Yeonnam-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul BANH MI (Vietnamese sandwich)

Green House

Seoul YMCA

ABC Mart

Ibis Ambassador Hotel

Hadongkwan

Osulloc Tee house

Seoul Royal Hotel

Myeong-dong Kyoja Seoul lobal Cultural Center

Vips

GS25 cvs

Savoy Hotel

Starbucks

NineTree Hotel Shinhan Bank

Quicksilver & Roxi

CGV

The Grand Hotel

Skypark Hotel [III]

Sambuja Squid Bulgogi Jin House

Migliore

R1 Myeongdong Kyoja Korean D3 With more than 40 years of history, Myeongdong Kyoja has been loved by the locals for many years. The restaurant is popular for its Kalguksu, a Korean noodle dish that serves handmade noodles and other ingredients in a bowl of thick chicken broth. The mini dumpling toppings add a zesty touch while the crazy chili kimchi gives you garlic breath that may be hellish for your companion, but well worth it. The pork dumplings are also highly recommended. R2 Myeongdong Donkatsu Korean B2 Opened in 1983, this restaurant serves delicious donkatsu (Japanese pork cutlet). The secret is in aging thick slices of seasoned pork fillet (150kg total) for three to four days making the meat tenderer.

8 7 ng Stn. Myeong-do

R3 Andong Jjimdak Korean D2 Dak means chicken in Korean, and jjim means steamed, stewed or braised in a sauce. Andong Jjimdak, which originated from the city of Andong, is a spicy version that has become enormously popular since late 1990’s. Braised in a sweet and savory braising liquid, the dish gets its spiciness from dried whole red chili peppers and fresh fiery hot green peppers called Cheongyang gochu. R4 Hadongkwan Korean D2 Opened in 1939, it is the most representative gomtang (traditional Korean soup boiled with beef bone) restaurant in Seoul. With its long history, Hadongkwan provides an authentic taste of gomtang and it only opens its door until 4:30pm.

Yeonnam Police Box

C1 C4

R10

R2 Tuk Tuk Noodle Thai Thai D3 070-4407-5130 • 227-37 Yeonnam-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul Thai chef and Thai beer served in Thai interiors and music.

TOUSlesJOURS

L3 R5 C3 R7 R9 R2

Gyeongam little theater

Kyesung Girls’High School

CROCS

A-land

Demyung Vivaldi Park Apts.

Hamheung Myeonok

Chinese Embassy

roa

Frisbee

ail

Myeong-dong Catholic church

Olive young

rt R

Nanta Theater

Andong Jjimdak

홍어랑탁이랑

Jhill Hotel

Police Stn.

C1 Nakrangparang Cafe C4 (02) 6204-7888 • 148-3 Donggyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul Named after the first café in Korea opened in 1931. Rest your feet at this retrointerior café with a bowl of mango shaved ice. 12 pm – 10 pm. Closed on Mondays

Air

Olive young

Myeong-dong Shinhan Bank Burger King Theater

Lotte Young Plaza

Starbucks

Myeong-dong Donkatsu

L2 R6

Skypark Hotel [Central]

Lotte Duty Free

Lotte Cinema

Skypark Hotel [II]

7-Eleven cvs

Lotte Avenuel

Myeong-dong Tourist Information Center

Metro Hotel

L1 Dan Dan Japanese bar C2 (02) 6092-2298 • 228-9 Yeonnam-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul Izakaya serving various menu items at reasonable price starting at 4,000won. 5pm – 3 am. Closed on Tuesdays L2 228-9 Café / bar C2 070-4244-2289 • 228-9 Yeonnam-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul A cozy place to enjoy cocktails and live music. 2pm – 2am R3 Casa di Noa Italian B3 (02) 3142-1108 • 257-8 Yeonnam-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul Homemade Italian cuisine served by an Italian chef owner. R4 달빛부엌 Moonlight kitchen Asian cuisine C2 (02) 322-3559 • 227-13 Yeonnam-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul Thai, Chinese and Japanese dishes cooked with the freshest from market daily. 5:30 pm – 1:30 am. Closed on Sundays

C5 Travel Maker cafe B4 (02) 338-1545 • 152-7 Donggyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul American breakfast R10 SOUPMAN Restaurant C4 Serving chicken, brocoll, pumpkin, potato, gorgonzola and cacao soups starting from 5,600 won. R7 Assisi Italian D3 070-4114-0736 • 227-6 Yeonnam-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul Almost as if you’re dining at your friends’. This small but welcoming ambiance is recommended for dining with your friends. / 11:50 am – 11 pm. Closed on Mondays. C2 Viva Brasil Brazilian dessert cafe C2 070-8951-8282 • 255-25 Yeonnam-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul A dessert café serving Brazilian fruit bowl, smoothies and cheese breads. C3 Isim Coffee shop D3 070-4238-5050 • 227-5 Yeonnam-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul Just when you think you know about coffee, the barista owner will extend your knowledge. Just ask. You won’t regret C4 Tomi’s bakery Bakery C4 (02) 333-0608 • 148-4 Donggyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul A local bakery opened by a Japanese patissier Tomigawa. Vietnamese coffee is recommended to go with its breads. / 10 am – 9 pm

Donggyo-dong Samgeori

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홍대최대포

L3 Sisili Soju bar D2 (02) 334-8117 • 227-15 Yeonnam-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul Groove editors’ favorite spot. Seafood grilled or raw, beef grilled or raw and Hallasan soju. Soju lovers’ haven for sleepless nights. 6 pm – 5 am R6 Taiwanese Night Market 대만야시장 Taiwanese restaurant C2 (02) 322-3058 • 227-20 Yeonnam-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul Various Taiwanese dumplings, Paux mama, fried chicken/prawn/port/squid starting at 5,000won. The best spot for late night snacks in the area. 9 am – 2 am R5 Himeji Japanese curry D3 010-4743-1055 • 227-15 Yeonnam-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul Homemade curry at less than 5,500won. Its menu curry noodle is strongly recommended to first time visitors.

Yeonnam-dong

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