Groove Korea September 2015

KOTESOL

Your EFL Conference Call

LUXURY

In The City A Seoul Hotels Special

Unmasking festivities in Andong

Unsung Cuisines

Try something new with restaurants off the beaten path.

Bar Screening

Where to watch the Rugby World Cup

Rugby World Cup

Ruck into the action

Editorial

September 2015

T

his month brings us the Rugby World Cup - one of the biggest competitions in world sport - and Groove Korea’s sport section has all the information you need to make your tournament. Luke Butcher previews the Rugby World Cup 2015 while Liam Ring reviews Graham Henry’s visit to Yonsei University and meets members of the Seoul Survivors for their half-season report on what has been a busy period for the club. Freshman student Ho-jun Jung talks about playing for one of the top university sides in Korea while we also consider the Korea Rugby Association and whether or not they have taken their eye off the ball completely. Groove Korea also bring you six bars around Seoul who are fully prepped for the September 18 kick-off. Not excited yet? We certainly are.

Away from men with oddly shaped balls, travel destinations this month include a short trip across the water to Osaka. George Kalli shares his experiences

after attending a Vietnamese engagement party and Naheen Madarbakus-Ring finds out about what kinds of deals the top hotels in Seoul are offering this Chuseok and beyond. If looking to escape the capital this vacation, Naomi Blenkinsop provides information about a few folk museums – or Hanoks – to get in touch with your cultural side.

Musically, we have news on the Zandari Festa in Hongdae, a review of Table People’s new album, and preview the upcoming visit of British rockers Muse.

Simon McEnteggart prepares us for BIFF (the Busan International Film Festival) in the first of his two stories celebrating twenty years of the film festival and Rob Shelley heads to Dongdaemun Design Plaza to talk about the Affordable Art Fair while catching up with attending French artist Jeremie Baldocchi.

We also have regular reads in the Community, Food and Insight sections, so grab a coffee, a tea or a pint, and settle in with this month’s magazine. Fall has arrived and with lots to see and do, it’s going to be a busy month.

C O V E R O n t h e

September 2015

Cover photo courtesy of Getty Images and Press Association Cover design by Seong-eun Park This month we celebrate one of the biggest sporting events of the year. The Rugby World Cup, which takes place in England between September 18-October 31 is sure to entertain many over the next six weeks with all the major nations (England, Ireland, Wales, Australia, New Zealand, America, Canada, South Africa) involved. Ruck into the fall with this global celebration of sport.

Correction The photos which appeared in the Alleycon article in the August issue were taken by Waygook Photography.

ISSUE

107

SE PTEMBER 2015

What ’ s in this iss ue WELCOME

04 EDITORIAL 10 KEY PEOPLE

Meet Groove’s editorial team and a few of our talented contributors

12 WHAT’S ON

Festivals, concerts, happy hours, networking and events for every day of the month

14 THE NEWS

Tensions subside after deal finally struck: Propaganda campaign halted and Pyongyang pulls soldiers off alert / Ministers’ remarks on election come under fire / Woman who was indicted for attempted rape cleared / Prosecutors indict illegal broker over refugee scam

6

www.groovekorea.com September 2015

COMMUNIT Y

20 Bittersweet Baldocchi

French artist Jeremie Baldocchi shares his unique approach to art and reflects on his first visit to Korea.

22 Bangers and Gav

Bangers and pie maker Gavin Mackay, talks about Scotland, Seoul, and Sausages

FOOD AN D DRINK

24 The happy

Hanok Villages Celebrating Chuseok with a little culture from a choice of Hanok Villages around the country

26 Conference Call

Whether a year out or in for the long haul, let KOTESOL refresh and innovate your EFL teaching

28 Seoraeís European

Gateway A French community in the heart of the capital, Seorae Global Village Center invites you to a slice of European culture

29 Kimmy J:

Discovering a Seoul Collection Designer Hee Jin Kim brings her Seoul collection - and fashion success - to Gangnam

INSIGHT

30 Whose business

is it anyway?

Short-Term Commercial Leases, Goodwill, and the Gwalligum Problem

34 Less Popular Cuisines

Chang up your dining routine with restaurants on the cuisine paths less traveled.

37 Prost

This sleek Itaewon watering hole gets a second look.

38 Star Chef is Back

A legendary fave returns and is better than ever

39 Kiwi Herman

Savor the last sips of summer with cool kiwi.

Restaurant Buzz Autumn meats for the inner carnivore

40 Grocery find

Where to find okra, cilantro and other rarities Recipe: Southern Raspberry Fried Chicken Tangy fried chicken with the added kick of raspberry vinegar, southern style.

41 Brewing More Than Beer

The Korean homebrewing and beer loving scene finds an online nest.

WTF: Mexicana’s fruit-flavored chicken is as awful as it sounds

ISSUE

107

SE PTEMBER 2015

What ’ s in this iss ue ENTERTAINMENT

42 Andong Unmasked

It’s party time in Andong with masks, dance and a weekend of festivities

44 Affordable art fair stops

in seoul Making art accessible to the eye (and the pocket) at the AAF’s Dongdaemun Design Plaza

46 The K-Film Fall Season

The Korean Movie scene prepares for Chuseok with three choice offerings

48 BIFF’s Retrospective Insight

8

www.groovekorea.com September 2015

Into Korean Cinema: Hidden Masterpieces’ BIFF (Busan International Film Festival) 20th anniversary celebrations begin with a look at some 1960s classic movie masterpieces

54 All Heart and No Drones A-muse-ment for the ears as the UK trio return to Seoul for two dates this month

An Uncertain Future Is rugby on the peninsula in crisis?

TRAVEL

66 Rugby At The Ivy League

56 Luxury at Your Fingertips Chuseok celebrations can now come with a touch of luxury, courtesy of Seoul’s top hotels this holiday

58 A Hop, A Skip (and plane ride) Across The Water Take a break in Japan’s Second City

60 Thursday Morning in Vietnam An Engagement Experience with a Vietnamese twist.

49 It’s Time To Watch

SPORTS

50 Zandari Festa Returns To Hongdae

England for Showcase World Cup Time to get set for one of the biggest tournaments on the planet

Expat director Jake J. Smith offers a sneak peek into the anticipated release of documentary ‘While They Watched’

Zandari Festa invades Hongdae

52 Riding with Table People Table People bring their “A” game with new release

64 Korean Rugby Faces

62 Rugby’s Best Descend on

64 Taking A Much Needed Breather For The Rugby World Cup Find out why the Survivors have had a busier season than most

Life as a Korea University rugby player

67 In The Presence Of A Rugby Legend A rugby legend comes to Seoul

68 Big Drinks, Big Screens, Big Action.

Bars and big screens for the Rugby World Cup

70 Back into action

Didn’t the season just finish? The Barclays Premier League (BPL) set off on another marathon at sprint pace.

72 Football for The Masses

Seoul’s new boys offer fans a big day out

74

GROOVE LISTINGS

76 MAPS

KEY

George Kalli

George Kalli arrived in Seoul from Anchorage, Alaska in September 2012 to work as an engineer. While in Korea, his two main goals are to travel throughout Asia as much as possible and to convince more drinking establishments to offer his favorite buzz-inducing substance, Fernet. So far, he has been to many more countries than bars that serve Fernet in Seoul.

Myra Pearson

Myra Pearson is a freelance writer, poet and a self-proclaimed groupie of the Seoul indie music scene. Her poetry chapbook is available at MyraPearson.com, and you can also find her articles about film & music at PopMythology.com.

Gil Coombe Gil Coombe is an instructor at a private university in Seoul, who likes to mess around with copy editing and proof-reading in his spare time (and even occasionally convincing people to pay him for it). A keen interest in hiking and cycling around Korea has helped extend what was originally intended to be a one-year post-university, pre-working overseas sojourn into a completely different career. A current member of KOTESOL, he has just started to inflict his views on teaching on others via conference presentations.

Liam Ring

Liam has spent much of the last twelve years living in Japan and Korea, where he has divided his time between watching domestic and latenight EPL action most weekends. An avid Arsenal fan, he also enjoys the odd beverage, a quality meal and spending time with reading Haruki Murakami.

Liam is Groove Korea’s Sports editor.

Steve Sherk

10 www.groovekorea.com September 2015

Yoo Jin 0h Having left Korea at age of three, Yoo Jin Oh is a young fearless eater that returned to Korea two years ago to live on her own. In exchange for being a third culture kid without a clear home, she’s gained a relentless appetite for travelling, eating and cooking, which clearly doesn’t help her wallet but makes both her boyfriend and her incredibly happy. She loves this vibrant city with its unique and surprising cuisines and can’t wait to try out all that it has to offer during her time here.

Steve Sherk is an experienced freelance photographer from Minneapolis, Minnesota. He offers versatile photography services to Seoul and surrounding areas. Among his passions are travel, anthropology, and making music. For portfolio and contact, visit www.sherksteve.wix. com/photography

Legal Advice

KOREA 5 floor, Shinwoo Bldg. 5-7 Yongsan 3-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul, Korea. th

Contact info (010) 5348-0212 / (02) 6925-5057 Advertising ads@groovekorea.com General inquiries info@groovekorea.com EDITORIAL Di r eC tor

naheen madarbakus naheen@groovekorea.com EDITORIAL

Community Insight FOOD & DRINK ENTERTAINMENT MUSIC TRAVEL SPORTS

naheen madarbakus naheen@groovekorea.com anita mckay anita@groovekorea.com joe mcpherson food@groovekorea.com naheen madarbakus naheen@groovekorea.com chance dorland chancedorland@gmail.com naheen madarbakus naheen@groovekorea.com liam ring liam@groovekorea.com C opy Edi tor s

gil coombe, celeste maturen WRITE RS & C ONTRIB U TORS

luke butcher, steven price, gil coombe, rob shelley, dara fox naomi blenkinsop, simon mcenteggart, hallie bradley george kalli, tenzing norgey, myra pearson, rob thom, natalie ler-davies, robbie nguyen, dukhwa, charlotte hammond, jordan redmond, yoo jin oh, andy hume, tom birner, yuna lee, darren bean, elaine ramirez, nora mackenzie, craig stuart, david wellbaum, jake j. smith, jeremie baldocchi, steve sherk, sang-gun lee, kyung jin yoo, mark hughes, douglas vautour asia records, tai kim jungles, lolita no. 18, kimmy j, gavin’s sausages, kotesol, seorae global village center, jeonju hanok village andong city council, the press association, seoul eland getty images, premier league, affordable art fair andong festival tourism foundation, biff, hancinema intercontinental parnas seoul, ritz-carlton, seoul jw marriott seoul, conrad seoul, grand hyatt seoul scrooges, upper deck, wolfhound, shenanigans sin bin, cheeky kiwi, st mary’s clinic ART & DESIGN

ART DIRECTOR seong-eun park sam@groovekorea.com M ARKETING & AD MINISTRATION

CFO steve seung-jin lee MARKETING DIRECTOR peter chong ACCOUNTING yi-seul oh WEB & MOB ILE

himes design www.himesdesign.com finch professtional services www.finchproservices.com PU B LISH ER

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The articles are the sole property of GROOVE MEDIA CO. Ltd. No reproduction is permitted without the express written consent of GROOVE MEDIA CO. Ltd. The opinions expressed in the magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher.

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All rights reserved Groove Korea Magazine 2015

Tips

for Expatriates Under Criminal Investigation in Korea

By Jaechang Oh, Lawyer at Haemaru LawFirm

General Precautions Korean investigators are sometimes driven to elicit confessions from suspects, and tend to force admissions even when there appears to be sufficient evidence of guilt. Moreover, in some crimes (i.e, serious felonies, drug cases or illegal visa related crimes) where expatriates are often implicated, investigators often suggest plea bargaining (which does not exist in Korea) or deceive suspects into admissions or confessions by falsely guaranteeing innocence or diminished penalties. In these situations, it is important not to accept the investigator’s misleading offers.

Even Koreans are often hard-pressed to defend themselves against investigators. This, of course, goes double for expatriates who are already linguistically and culturally disadvantaged. Therefore, for expatriates, it is of the utmost importance to muster their courage and defend their case with confidence.

Additional Tips A. Bring your own translator

Though Korean investigators provide official translators, they are not always well qualified and might not be neutral. Thus, it is imperative for expatriates to communicate well with investigators and to be accompanied by their own translators if they can.

B. Never sign the interrogation record without confirming the truth of its contents

When an interrogation is over, the person interrogated will be asked to sign the record of the interrogation. DO NOT rubber-stamp this document—you should sign only after you verify or confirm that your answers and the investigators’ questions are truly and accurately represented.

C. Retain a lawyer!

Despite the financial burden, it is essential for expatriates to retain lawyers who can communicate well with foreign clients and are experts in criminal procedure. Thus, having a lawyer by your side is one of the most efficient and effective ways to vindicate your rights.

MORE INFO: Haemaru LawFirm www.Haemarulaw.com jcoh@haemarulaw.com 070-8200-6070 / 02-536-5437 Seoul office 8th fl., 148 Seocho Joongang-ro, Seocho-gu, Seoul

W hat ’ s O N MON

T UE

q

WED

THU

9 FRI

1

4

ANSEL ADAMS photos @ Sejong Center until Oct. 19

The Forger

3

MAROON5 live in Korea

7 14

10

@ Olympic Park on 7th & 9th

17 18 Maze Runner: Scorch Trials

MAGNUM “Brilliant Korea” photo exhibition

Survivor

@ Sejong Center / until Oct. 3

BON JOVI live in Seoul

22

25

@ Jamsil Stadium

12 www.groovekorea.com September 2015

Hongdae LIVE CLUB day!

Chuseok

Korean Thanksgiving Day

30 MUSE live @ Olympic Park

26

Seoul International Dance Festival @ Sept. 30 – Oct. 18 www.sidance.org

Games in SEPTEMBER KBO League game schedule

(schedules for Jamsil, Mokdong and Sajik only)

1-2 SAT

VS. SK vs Doosan Jams il

S UN

6

VS. LG vs NEXEN Mokdong

MAROON5 live in Korea

VS.

@ DAEGU Stadium

KT vs Lotte S ajik

3-4

VS.

10-11

KT vs LG Jams il

VS. KIA vs Doosan J a m si l

5-6 Cirque du Soleil “Quidam”

@ Jamsil Stadium / Sept. 10 – Nov. 1

VS.

8-9

20

VS.

Lotte vs LG Jams il

Samsung vs Lotte S a j i k

12-13

VS. Hanhwa vs LG Jams il

VS.

VS.

KT vs Doosan Ja m si l

Doosan vs NEXEN Mokdong

VS. Samsung vs NEXEN M o kd o n g

VS. Hanhwa vs Lotte S a j i k

Incheon 70.3 Ironman Triathlon

26

K League schedule K League Challenge

K League Classic

5

Ansan Police FC vs. Sang ju Sangmu FC

9

Bucheon FC vs. Gyongnam FC

12

(schedules for Jamsil, Suwon, Ansan, Anyang, Goyang and Bucheon games only)

Chuseok

Korean Thanksgiving Day

An san

Buche o n

9

Daegu FC vs. Seoul E-Land

An san

13 19

2015 ANDONG Maskdance Festival

20

Ansan Police FC vs. Gangwon FC An san

Seoul E-Land vs. Sang ju Sangmu FC J am si l

FC Anyang vs. Daegu FC

Sept. 25 – Oct. 4

An y a n g

23

20

Suwon FC vs. Chung ju Hummel FC S uwo n

Seoul E-Land vs. Ansan Police FC J am si l

Jeonbuk FC vs. FC Seoul Jeonju

Suwon Bluewings vs. FC Seoul Suwon

Jeonbuk FC vs. Daejeon Citizen

Buche o n An y a n g

Seoul

Suwon

Bucheon FC vs. Sang ju Sangmu FC FC Anyang vs. Suwon FC

FC Seoul vs. Pohang Steelers

Suwon Bluewings vs. Incheon Utd

J am si l

Suwon FC vs. Ansan Police FC

12

(schedules for Seoul, Suwon and Jeonju stadiums games only)

Jeonju

23

FC Seoul vs. Seongnam FC

28

FC Seoul vs. Gwang ju FC

Seoul Seoul

N ati onal New s

All stories are culled with consent from Korea JoongAng Daily’s website and edited by Groove Korea for length and clarity.

The opinions expressed here do not necessarily represent those of Groove Korea. — Ed.

In association with September 2015 / www.koreajoongangdaily.com

Tensions subside after deal finally struck Propaganda campaign halted and Pyongyang pulls soldiers off alert

14 www.groovekorea.com September 2015

S

outh Korea pulled the plug on its pared for firing. But ministry spokesman Kim propaganda broadcasts via loud- Min-seok said the military couldn’t confirm if speakers in the demilitarized zone the North had retracted all its war preparations.

“It takes time to assess the movement of North August 25, in accordance with an agreement drawn up with North Ko- Korean military units before we decide they ended their quasi-state of war readiness,” Kim rea in the early hours of the day.

Following through on its side of the agree- told the Korea JoongAng Daily.

The official added that South Korea’s military ment, the military halted the broadcasts at noon, putting an end to a 15-day psychological remained at its highest alert level.

Tensions on the peninsula subsided August warfare campaign that it resumed in retaliation for land mines planted near one of its bases 25 following the announcement of a six-point that blew up on August 4, maiming two soldiers. agreement drawn up by the two Koreas after 43 North Korea showed signs of complying hours of talks.

The two sides wrapped up discussions around with its promise to end a “quasi-state of war” declared last week, with frontline soldiers re- 1 a.m. August 25 after Pyongyang agreed to exturning to their units from underground shel- press regret over the land mine blasts on Auters, where they were positioned to fire artillery gust 4. In return, South Korea agreed to stop the propaganda broadcasts. shells across the border.

The North expressed “regret over recent land The Ministry of National Defense in Seoul reported that fully armed North Korean gunners mine blasts that occurred on the southern side were seen returning to their units and artillery of the demilitarized zone, which maimed two bunkers facing the South were no longer pre- South Korean soldiers.” Getting some kind of

acknowledgment of the North’s responsibility for the land mine blasts was the top goal of the South during the talks.

The four-day talks involved Kim Kwan-jin, South Korea’s director of National Security; Unification Minister Hong Yong-pyo; and their North Korean counterparts, Hwang Pyongso, director of the General Political Bureau of the North Korean Army, and Kim Yang-gon, the secretary of the Central Committee of the Workers’ Party who oversees inter-Korean relations for Pyongyang.

While Pyongyang stopped short of expressing a direct apology, Seoul decided it had effectively conceded responsibility for the land mines.

The agreement is also thought to have saved face for Pyongyang because it could assert otherwise domestically.

The South Korean government stressed that it is very rare for Pyongyang to use the term “regret” in an official joint statement with South Korea. Such an interpretation was underscored in President Park Geun-hye’s remarks on the outcome of the talks. She said she “hoped the North’s regret over its provocation and promise that it would not recur” could help the two Koreas “resolve other [inter-Korean] issues on a basis of trust,” according to Blue House spokesman Min Kyung-wook Tuesday.

The agreement leaves open the possibility for Seoul to resume its anti-Pyongyang broadcasts.

The pact states that the South would stop the campaign in the absence of any exceptional situations along the border, such as the land mine blasts.

An official at the Ministry of Unification, which oversees inter-Korean relations, said that point in the agreement provides compelling deterrence against further attacks along the border.

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16 www.groovekorea.com September 2015

N ati onal New s

In association with

The reunions have been sought by the Park “We would have no leverage to prevent another provocation if we had merely stated the Geun-hye government for months. Such reuntwo sides would work together against the re- ions are indicators of how warm or chilly ties currence of provocations,” said the official, who between the two Koreas are.

While the four negotiators did not discuss spoke on the condition of anonymity. “But by stating the punitive measure would be reinstat- lifting the so-called May 24 economic sanced in case another provocation occurs, we now tions, imposed in retaliation for the sinking of the Cheonan warship in 2010, which killed 46 have stronger deterrence and leverage.”

According to the official, the two top officials sailors, the prospect of Seoul moving to remove from Pyongyang wanted to focus on thawing the sanctions could materialize, as the two frosty inter-Korean relations instead of ad- sides have agreed to facilitate “multi-faceted” dressing the issue of the land mine detona- dialogue. tions during the talks. The North Korean offi- “This six-point agreement carries significance, cials stressed that talking about the future was as it sets new momentum for improvement in more important than harping about the past, a Seoul-Pyongyang ties after years of strained reremark the official said had apparently upset lations dating back to the Lee Myung-bak govnational security adviser and former Defense ernment,” said Lim Eul-chul, professor of North Korean studies at Kyungnam University.

Minister Kim. Lim noted that the agreement was possible “We assured the North Korean counterparts that no progress could be made unless the is- partly due to President Park’s strong stance that sue of the land mine blasts was resolved,” the North Korea must apologize for the land mine incident if it wanted the broadcast campaign to ministry official said.

Chief national security adviser Kim was re- stop.

“North Korea must have felt a much stronger ported to have mentioned his career as head of the South Korean military before taking his position from our side compared to the past by current position to stress how important it was previous governments,” Lim added.

The six-point pact was the culmination of a for him on a personal level to settle the issue.

Under the six-point deal, the two Koreas also six-day drama in which the two rivals braced agreed to hold talks either in Seoul or Pyong- for a direct military clash at one of the most yang to improve inter-Korean relations on mul- heavily armed zones in the world. The crisis tiple fronts, including in business cooperation began August 20 when the North Korean army along the DMZ fired artillery shells across the and cultural exchanges.

One Defense Ministry official told the Joon- border into the South, apparently as threats to gAng Ilbo, an affiliate of the Korea JoongAng the loudspeakers blaring propaganda.

The South fired back, although it did not lead Daily, that a large number of North Korean submarines that had embarked on operations over to a wider conflict.

On the same day, North Korean leader Kim the weekend were confirmed to have returned to their stations. These movements were also Jong-un ordered his troops to prepare for a thought to have been part of the North’s “qua- “quasi-state of war” and delivered a 48-hour ultimatum to the South to stop the broadcasts, si-state of war.”

The four-member panel also agreed to ar- warning of dire consequences.

Unbowed by the threat, the South Korean milrange working-level talks on reunions for families separated by the 1950-53 Korean War on itary vowed to strike back at any attacks in colthe occasion of the Chuseok holiday in Sep- laboration with United States forces. Just hours before the 48-hour deadline, the first round of tember.

The agreement also calls for renewing civilian talks was held at the border village of Panmunexchanges via nongovernmental organizations jom on August 22, which stretched to 12:55 a.m.

August 25. across different fields.

People whose relatives still live in North Korea fill out applications at a Korea Red Cross office in Seoul on Tuesday, after the two Koreas agreed to hold reunions for families separated by the 1950-53 Korean War on the occasion of the upcoming Chuseok holiday in September.

By Park Jong-keun

Ministers’ remarks on election come under fire

T

he home affairs minister and finance minister within the Park Geun-hye administration are set to be investigated by the National Election Commission (NEC) for controversial remarks they made wishing the ruling party victory in the next general election.

The opposition New Politics Alliance for Democracy (NPAD) on August 27 filed a complaint to the NEC requesting an investigation into Minister of Government Administration and Home Affairs Chong Jong-sup on charges that he violated his duty in maintaining political neutrality as a public servant.

The NPAD also asked the election watchdog to investigate Choi Kyung-hwan, the deputy prime minister for the economy and the minister of strategy and finance, for remarks he made stating that he would assist the ruling party in the general elections by accomplishing the government’s goal of economic growth. The next general election will take place in April 2016.

Minister Chong reportedly made those comments August 25 during a dinner meeting with Saenuri Party lawmakers, where he proposed a toast, prompting representatives to repeat “wish for victory,” as he finished with, “general elections,” according to multiple participants. The main opposition called Chong’s action outrageous, as the minister of government administration and home affairs is responsible for overseeing a free and fair election and preventing public servants from intervening in the polls.

The NPAD demanded President Park fire Chong for his remarks, adding that the government’s devotion to a fair election would be questioned if the minister remained in his post.

The opposition also criticized Deputy Prime Minister Choi over comments he made during the dinner.

“We were told that Choi stated he would improve the economic growth rate to 3 percent next year so that it would help [the ruling party] in the general elections,” Rep. Yoo Eun-hae, an NPAD spokeswoman, said on Wednesday.

“We will take action against him as well.”

Opposition floor leader Rep. Lee Jong-kul pressured the president to sack both ministers and said on August 27that the party would start reviewing legal steps to oust them, including drawing up a resolution recommending dismissal, impeachment and a complaint with the prosecution.

Keimyung University Dongsan Medical Center

계명대학교 동산의료원

116 years of history The first hospital in Daegu Established in 1899 by an American medical missionary Practicing domestic and international medical volunteer activities for over a Century. ● Leading hospital in attraction of international patients Best Institute Award for attracting International Patients from the Korean Ministry of Health and Welfare in 2010 ● Leading Medical Center in daegu medical tourism ● Specialized Medical Centers : Cardiovascular Center, Cerebrovascular Center, Cancer Center, Digestive System Center, Sleep Center, Obesity and metabolic Surgery Center.

New hospital under construction

Specialized International Healthcare Center ● Affiliated with International SOS ● Language services in English, Chinese, Japanese, and Russian ● Convenient and professional service with the following international insurance companies for direct billing system : Tricare Overseas Program, AETNA International, BlueCross Blueshield,CIGNA International, Foreign Service Benefit Plan, GeoBlue

56 Dalseong-Ro, Jung-Gu, Daegu TEL 053-250-7303 www.dsmc.or.kr

N ati onal New s

In association with

Woman who was indicted for attempted rape cleared

T

he Seoul Central District Court on August 22 acquitted a 45-year-old woman indicted for attempted rape, citing a lack of evidence that the divorcee had allegedly doped her older paramour and attempted to have sex with him after he told her he wanted to break up.

The ruling was the first time a Korean woman was indicted for attempted rape since the law was revised in June 2013 to extend prosecution to male rape victims.

Current law stipulates that a person convicted of rape must be sentenced to at least three years in prison. The previous version of the law was only applicable to female victims.

A woman who tries to force a man into having sex can be indicted for an “indecent act by force,” which is punishable by less than 10 years in prison or a fine of 15 million won ($12,540) or less.

The revised law also covers transgender people

who identify themselves as women but are legally registered as men.

In handing down the verdict, the judges said they respected the jury’s decision, which unanimously found the defendant not guilty. Five of the nine-person panel were men.

The pair involved in the case reportedly met at a bicycle club in 2011 and started dating, even though the man, 51, was married and had children.

According to prosecutors, the man told the woman, only identified by her surname Jeon, in July 2014 that he wanted to end the affair.

When the two met at her house after his announcement, the defendant offered him a drink spiked with sleeping pills, claiming it would help heal a bone fracture in his hand, prosecutors said.

After he fell asleep, Jeon bound his hands and feet and attempted to have sex with him, but the victim suddenly woke up and tried to flee, prosecutors said.

The prosecution also believes Jeon struck him in the head with a hammer she set aside in advance

Prosecutors indict illegal broker over refugee scam

18 www.groovekorea.com September 2015

A

uthorities have indicted a broker for illegally assisting a group of Egyptians seeking employment in Korea in entering the country via a shell company and falsely applying for refugee status for them, Seoul prosecutors said August 26.

The Seoul Central District Prosecutors’ Office said that a 28-year-old Egyptian man was charged with violating the immigration control law for bringing more than a dozen Egyptians into Korea earlier this year.

The man found the Egyptians in March - collecting an average of $5,000 from each - set up a shell company and arranged for the company to invite them to the country under the pretense that it was for business purposes.

He arranged for nine of the Egyptians to apply for asylum status with the Korean government, providing accommodation and training them to act like refugees who had faced persecution in their home country, according to prosecutors.

They added that he took advantage of the fact that refugees could evade forced deportation from Korea.

This is the first time a person has been charged for brokering refugee applications.

The broker himself entered the country as a tourist last year and is also an illegal immigrant.

The crime came to light when the Seoul Immigration Office got wind of the situation after some of the Egyptians tried to apply for refugee status there.

The Egyptians explained to officials that the man had promised to help them get employ-

as she screamed, “Everything is over. I’m going to kill you!”

The defendant was also indicted for battery.

Prosecutors had sought a year and a half prison term for the defendant, along with medical treatment while in custody.

The court, however, said it was “hard to believe” the man’s testimony that he woke up in the middle of the night, noticed he was tied up and then tried to flee, only to fall back sleep and wake up again, this time remembering Jeon had smacked him in the head.

“It is logical that when a person [is affected by] zolpidem, the loss of consciousness would hold out,” the verdict read.

The judicial authority added that the argument

by Jeon’s lawyer was more convincing.

According to the defense, Jeon had been given consent to tie up her lover and struck him with a hammer in self-defense after he tried to strangle her when she told him she had called his wife. The man was also believed to be sadistic in bed.

ment but did not follow up on his word.

Prosecutors are currently searching for the man’s accomplices, his older cousin and a Korean man surnamed Ahn, who forged company invitations.

The number of asylum seekers in Korea has increased over recent years, with 423 applying for refugee status in 2010; 1,011 in 2012 and 1,143 in 2012, according to the Ministry of Justice.

The Korean National Assembly passed a refugee law, the first for an East Asian country, which was implemented in July 2013. There were 1,574 refugee applications in 2013, of which 57 were accepted.

In 2014, there were 2,896 applications, of which 94, or 3.2 percent, were accepted. Between January and May this year, 1,633 people sought asylum.

The refugee law enables asylum seekers to submit applications at international Korean airports and ports of entry. Recognized refugees are eligible to receive government benefits and opportunities for vocational training. It also allows them to get jobs six months after gaining asylum status.

According to the Korea Immigration Service, between 1994 and 2013, there were 121 Egyptian refugee status applications.

But as of August 2015, there were more than 400 refugee applications, indicating there are likely other similar cases out there.

Officials say they are in the process of conducting further investigations to crack down on other brokers bringing in illegal immigrants and abusing the country’s refugee system.

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

C OMMUNI TY

Nei g h b o rhoo d Watch

Bittersweet

Baldocchi Story by Rob Shelley Photos Courtesy of Jeremie Baldocchi

20 www.groovekorea.com September 2015

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eremie Baldocchi is an accomplished artist who describes his paintings as “unusual, original, disturbing, poetic and fairy tale-like.” He has won numerous awards in France and the USA, published two books, and has been exhibited all over the world. This year alone, his works will have been in Paris, Brussels, Singapore, Hong Kong, and London. Additionally, Jeremie’s art will be on display in Seoul at the Affordable Art Fair from September 11-13.

His paintings look like graphic novel art at first glance; but with a playful, twisted, abstract quality. Additionally, if one looks closer, they notice that Jeremie has a real flare for color, lighting, and texture. The patterns and lighting in the background of his artwork simply pop and memorize the imagination. The bright, friendly colors make you smile. The shapes may first evoke cute, Korean and Japanese cartoon characters; but on second glance, are juxtaposed onto his own style of characters with the shapes representing estrangement and discomfort. Yet, his concrete references to pop-culture make the work familiar and accessible.

His paintings often feature familiar facets such as superheroes, beauty pageant contestants, and everyday home living; yet there’s a common theme throughout most of them. The

Jeremie Baldocchi shares his vision and views on the art world ahead of his debut at Seoul’s Affordable art Fair

figures are often missing their heads and have bloated, misshapen bodies. Not entertaining the morbid, Jeremie states there’s a reason for that.

Raised in Toulons, France, Jeremie came from an artistic family but never really fit in at school. “I didn’t like school, I felt excluded, I used to stay (there) alone, and I didn’t like being

with the other kids. I spent more time distracting other students than study.” Additionally, his teachers were often trying to get him to learn and practice more conventional styles of art.

Feeling estranged, Jeremie was lucky to have one teacher who inspired him.

On one fateful assignment, Jeremie couldn’t think of what the figure’s face should look like

so he decided to submit his work without a head. His teacher loved it and Jeremie’s signature style was set. Since then, most of Jeremie’s work has featured headless figures, which he feels “adds an element of interactivity to the image (as) the viewer can give free rein to his imagination.”

His fascination with malleable, misshapen bodies comes from a series of childhood experiences. Jeremie says he grew up fat and unhappy with his body. In a short period, around the age of 18, the artist had three medical conditions that changed his body and, thus, his art work. The most influential of these was a dental operation that caused him to lose 40kg in two months. “I didn’t recognize myself in the mirror; this new body was not mine. After this event, all the changes and deformities in my body became a real obsession. The bodies that I design are very influenced by this new “vision” of the body.”

This vision of the body isn’t the only thing that drives Jeremie’s unique artistic style.

He also has a fascination with the ordinary, everyday minutiae of life. “People’s everyday life interests me. The foibles and habits of people and sometimes the absurdity of certain situations are my main source of inspiration.” Many of Jeremie’s art work are set in the kitchen or living room, depicting everyday scenes—albeit

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MORE INFO: Jeremie Baldocchi will be exhibiting at the Affordable Art Fair Seoul this month.

British Chamber Garden Party 6.30pm-8.30pm Cost: KRW 68,000 (members) KRW 78,000 (non-members) The British Embassy Garden, 4, Jeong-dong Jung-gu, Seoul every Thurs

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Korean Crafts Class 1.30pm-3pm / Cost: Material Fee Seorae Global Village Center, 3rd floor, Jeon Building, Seorae-ro 28, Seocho-gu, (90-12 Banpo 4-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul) FRI

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Every Fri

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Free Speaking Class 10am-11.30am / Cost: Free Seorae Global Village Center, 3rd floor, Jeon Building, Seorae-ro 28, Seocho-gu, Seoul, (90-12 Banpo 4-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul) After School Program: Art for Kids 4.15pm-5pm / Cost: KRW 5,000 Seorae Global Village Center, 3rd floor, Jeon Building, Seorae-ro 28, Seocho-gu, Seoul, (90-12 Banpo 4-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul) every Sat

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KISS Salsa Classes 7.30pm-8.30pm (beginner) 8.30pm-9.30pm (intermediate) Cost: 10,000 won non-band nights/ 15,000 won band nights SAMOS, Yonsero-5-dakil 22-3, 3rd floor, Chang Cheon-dong Sodemun-gu, Seoul SUN

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Stitch n Bitch Meet 2.30pm / Cost: Free De Lambre Coffee Shop Jongno-gu Jongno 2-ga 75-8

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Korean Language Program Mon/Weds or Tues/Thurs (various classes over 10 weeks) Cost: Free (except textbook) Seorae Global Village Center, 3rd floor, Jeon Building, Seorae-ro 28, Seocho-gu (90-12 Banpo 4-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul)

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Korean Cooking Class 1.30pm-3pm / Cost: KRW 20,000 Seorae Global Village Center, 3rd floor, Jeon Building, Seorae-ro 28, Seocho-gu (90-12 Banpo 4-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul) WED

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Living in Seoul Orientation 10am-11.30am / Cost: Free Itaewon Global Village Center, 5f Hannam Building, 737-37 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-Gu, Seoul

September 2015 www.groovekorea.com 21

DDP (Dongdaemun Design Plaza), 281 Euljiro, Jung-Gu, Seoul Dongdaemun History and Culture Park Station (Lines 2, 4, and 5, exit 1) For the second floor basement entrance to Oullim Square, the Design Market, the Design Lab, and the Museum.

September 11-13, 2015 11am-6pm (and late opening until 8pm on Friday 12 September) KRW 10,000 (adults), KRW 8,000 (12-18 year olds), Free (under 12/over 65s) http://www.jeremiebaldocchi.com/ http://affordableartfair.com/seoul/?lang=en

PARTY

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

in a very strange way.

This strangeness also drives Jeremie’s vision. He has been attracted to “bad taste” and why something that’s ugly for one person can be fascinating for another. In fact, Jeremie isn’t at all snobbish about his art because he really loves the idea that people have completely different reactions to the same painting or experience. One of his artistic goals is to try and accurately represent, not what he sees in real life, but what is in his head—his personal reaction to the ugly or the ordinary. He hopes that people will connect with it by recognizing something from their own lives or dreams.

Another of Jeremie’s artistic goals is to show something awkward and terrible but to make it beautiful. “I like the fact that the butcher wraps his piece of meat—dripping with blood and full of fat—in a pretty, rosy paper. How to make something “appetizing” which at first sight is not. This is what I try to recreate in my paintings.”

Ironically, although his paintings look bright and cheery, and he wants to make us smile, he also wonders if people will see the darkness that lies underneath. “How many of them will notice that the characters are not that happy, that they live in their body like they would in jail? Despite the colorful scenes, they are suffering, they are in pain.”

Jeremie doesn’t connect with all art, however. “I don’t really like performances or installations such as, for example, a TV set showing the same picture, with an object just besides, in an empty room. I don’t understand the artistic approach of these artists.” Jeremie thinks these artworks are profitable, but only because they’re fashionable and not because they are good. On the other hand, Jeremie loves photography and film. In fact, he considers his process to be similar to a filmmaker trying to find the right way to frame and color a scene.

For the Affordable Art Fair in Seoul, Jeremie is working on some new paintings that will show a different side of his work as they all feature animals. His work will be represented by the Be & Art Gallery of Paris. Although this will be his first exhibit in Korea, he isn’t a stranger to Asian art and has great things to say about Korean artists. “Traditional [Korean] art is a gold mine. The contemporary artists are very innovative. Korean art is always progressing. It is an important source of inspiration.”

As for aspiring artists, he advises that one must “be courageous and extremely motivated.” The hardest part of being an artist, for him, is the tedium of the logistical and business side of things: marketing, promoting, administration, and so forth. Also, lacking inspiration but having to carry on with your work anyway. Jeremie says that only about one-third of his work actually involved creating the art itself. On top of that, there is an emotional cost as well: “The life of an artist is of doubt and questions and lots of work. It’s also a real debate against others and yourself.” But seeing yourself exhibited, seeing your name in front of a venue, and talking with admirers all help make it worthwhile.

Jeremie’s not sure why his chose art as his profession, but thinks it probably has to do with all the bad and good things in his head: The experiences that tarnished his childhood as well as all the little things that delight him. And, like most of us, to leave a marker proving that he was here.

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He considers his process to be similar to a filmmaker trying to find the right way to frame and color a scene.

every Weds

Afterclass Activity (Storytelling, board games & Janggu) 1pm-3.50pm / Cost: Free Seorae Global Village Center, 3rd floor, Jeon Building, Seorae-ro 28, Seocho-gu, Seoul, (90-12 Banpo 4-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul)

Bangers Gav Story by Dara Fox / Photos courtesy of Gavin’s Sausages

and

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

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Nei g h b o rhoo d Watch

A former British soldier turned headhunter turned gourmet sausage maker brings a little bit of Scotland to Korea

22 www.groovekorea.com September 2015

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ow does a medium-sized family business get into the pages of the New York Times, the UK’s Daily Telegraph and various Korean newspapers?

As if that wasn’t enough, garnering TV time aplenty has even made its owner a mini-celebrity. Meet Scotsman Gavin Mackay, who runs Gavin’s Sausages just north of the Han in Pyeongchangdong, Jongro-gu, offering gourmet sausages and pies (and haggis) to expats and curious Koreans alike.

When he started Gavin’s Sausages in 2000, foreign businesses were entering the Korean market with a vengeance, but mostly in the form of identikit franchises or generic multinationals. Gavin, who has been living in Korea since 1984, hit the sweet spot of bringing some much-needed cosmopolitanism to the peninsula, while staying very true to his Scottish culinary roots. The trick, as Gavin tells it, has been to keep it modest, personal, and real.

Since the company’s inception it has be-

come a growing, successful sausage business.

There was no plan for world domination, just Gavin’s realization that there was something culinary missing in his life. “In the early 90s I was making regular trips to Japan, Hong Kong and Taiwan for my work, so I was used to Asian food. I probably missed sausages even then but I didn’t realize it. I went to the Rugby Sevens in Hong Kong every year, and one year the hotel served great sausages for breakfast. I’d been five years without one, and it was wonderful. I went to Marks & Spencers in Hong Kong and filled my suitcase with them, and had to work hard with the customs guy when I was returning to Korea.”

There was no going back for the ravenous Gavin and when M&S discontinued their sausages, he started making them for himself. A few years later, he upgraded to a bigger sausage gun, and at the turn of the century, he took the brave leap to become a fully commercial operation by opening a factory.

On first glance, this seems like a real departure for a career military man who then started working in the corporate world, with no history

of entrepreneurship or experience in the food industry. But Gavin saw it as a natural evolution.

“I’d been making more and more sausages throughout the 90s for friends and family. I’d also been experimenting with seasonings, and had found the perfect one. We went with the one Simon Howie Butchers uses in Scotland, the Asohar supreme white seasoning for pork, which we get from Glasgow”. He says becoming a bona fide business “didn’t feel so bold” at the time; “I had to invest a lot in property and machinery, but I had a reasonable military pension as a fallback.”

Personal doubts aside, there were a lot of hurdles to overcome, including the language barrier of course. “I have a broad vocabulary, so people would think I could speak the language.

But I was going in to meetings with broken Korean and I’d get lost.”

Sourcing suitable meat produce was another problem. “Korean black pigs are delicious and taste very similar to British pork, but they cost twice as much, so we import. Over time we’ve sourced meat from other countries”. There

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Napkin Art: Hat Holder 1.30pm-3.30pm / Cost: KRW 10,000 Itaewon Global Village Center, 5f Hannam Building, 737-37 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-Gu, Seoul 140-893

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What all of these Korean and foreign customers get is something quintessentially British, a result not just of the seasoning. It’s hard to avoid the conclusion that his immersion in the world of bangers isn’t part of his abiding love of home, which also shines through in his connection with the British community in Seoul. His website says that “We proudly represent the United Kingdom with our tasty bangers”, and he puts his sausages where his mouth is, as he’s involved with the British Chamber of Commerce in a range of events like food fairs. Gavin also puts together an annual daytime ‘mini-ball’ at the Seoul British Foreign School, consisting of lunch and dancing. He’s a Scot first and foremost though, so working with the St. Andrew’s Society, a Scottish expat club, he helps promotes Scottish dancing through the ‘Muckleshunter’ event, held every May 1.

Obviously the upcoming Rugby World Cup in late September and October is in his thoughts, when Scotland will be competing in a tough first-round group with South Africa, Samoa, Japan and the US. “We failed at the last World Cup, but I’m an ever-hopeful Scot. We beat each of those teams the last time we played them, including South Africa who had an off day. Anything’s possible.”

Gavin wouldn’t be Gavin if he was content to just quietly watch the games without involving the expat community, so although there are no firm plans yet, he thinks he’ll work with the British Chamber to organize an informal event, probably for the first game.

As for the future, at some point he’ll hand the business off to his son Ranald, who will have plans of his own, but in the meantime he’s wary of becoming too big or going the franchise route. He knows he’s carved out a niche, and what better way to continue expanding Korea’s appetites than by going with his gut.

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Afterschool Art Class for Kids & Adults 3.30pm-5pm / Cost: KRW 8,000 Itaewon Global Village Center, 5f Hannam Building, 737-37 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-Gu, Seoul 140-893

ART FAIR

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Affordable Art Fair: Jeremie Baldocchi 11am-6pm (and late until 8pm on Fri Sept 12) Cost: KRW 10,000 (adults), KRW 8,000 (12-18 year olds), Free (under 12/over 65s) DDP (Dongdaemun Design Plaza), 281 Euljiro, Jung-Gu, Seoul TUE

Volunteer Activity

Senior Welfare Center 1pm-2pm Cost: Free but sign-up prior to the session http://global.seoul.go.kr/Itaewon Itaewon Global Village Center, 5f Hannam Building, 737-37 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-Gu, Seoul THU

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Volunteer Activity

Young Nak Aenea’s Home 2pm-4pm Cost: Free but sign-up prior to the session http://global.seoul.go.kr/Itaewon Itaewon Global Village Center, 5f Hannam Building, 737-37 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-Gu, Seoul 140-893

Meeting

Still Standing (PUSH) 7pm / Cost: Free Bonny’s Pizza Basement, Haebongcheon, Seoul www.facebook.com/PUSHKorea

Seminar

TEDxSeoul: Inspired by Canada 7pm-10pm / Cost: KRW TBC Canadian Embassy, Scofield Hall, 16-1 Jeong-dong, Jung-gu, Seoul

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Satang Jeolpyeon Rice Cake Making Class 2pm-4pm / Cost: KRW 10,000 Itaewon Global Village Center, 5f Hannam Building, 737-37 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-Gu

Seminar

Travel Seminar 10am-12pm / Cost: Free Itaewon Global Village Center, 5f Hannam Building, 737-37 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-Gu, Seoul

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September 2015 www.groovekorea.com 23

MORE INFO www.gavin.co.kr gsausage@naver.com (for enquiries, orders and deliveries) 010-2744-6569 64-3 Pyeongchangdong, Jongno-Gu, Seoul 110-846.

Located near Bugak tunnel. There is a Woori Bank 800m before the tunnel, where you should take a right turn towards Kumgang heights, where you will see Gavin’s factory and store.

How to order Bank transfer to Woori bank 1005-001-187959 / Kookmin bank 490701-01-155367

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Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

Yongsan Center for the Disabled 2pm-4pm Cost: Free but sign-up prior to the session http://global.seoul.go.kr/Itaewon Itaewon Global Village Center, 5f Hannam Building, 737-37 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-Gu, Seoul

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Gavin hit the sweet spot of bringing cosmopolitanism to Korea while staying true to his roots

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were a lot of hoops to go through, since the country didn’t make it easy at that time for a new foreign startup. “Korea was over-bureaucratic, and there were a hair-pulling couple of years of box-ticking, getting the labeling right, sell-by dates, you name it. There was suspicion about foreign businesses, and you had to tread carefully. My late father-in-law was named the original chairman of company, so theoretically, we were Korean-owned. And we also knew that Lotte or Samsung could have chopped us off at the knees if they’d seen me as a threat, so over the years we kept ourselves small. It’s all much better now.”

So what made him take on all these hurdles? Ironically, it was a sausage neophyte, Gavin’s Korean wife Maria, who saw the potential and urged him on. Her hunch about the new openness to experiment in Korea was borne out when the business quickly gained newspaper coverage, and Shinsegae came calling. “Sausages in Korea grew out of the war. They’re essentially hot dog sausages, which are seen as a low form of food. But a young guy in Shinsegae saw the article and wanted to spice up their offering.” As a result, he still has a high-profile store in Shinsegae, and as well as stocking gourmet shelves, there’s a brisk online trade and Gavin also supplies several hotels and restaurants, including a couple of eateries on the south coast where a lot of British workers are involved in the ship-building industry.

C OMMUNI TY Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

Hanok Villages With the notable Chuseok holiday marked off in our calendars this month, experience Korean life with a day at a traditional Hanok Village

C 24 www.groovekorea.com September 2015

Story by Naomi Blenkinsop / Photos courtesy of Jeonju Hanok Folk Village, Andong City Council and Sang-gun Lee

huseok is one of the most important holidays on the South Korean lunar calendar. This year, the holiday to mark the beginning of autumn falls in the middle of September, and gives Koreans and expats alike a much needed rest from their typically busy lives. Chuseok, or Korean Thanksgiving, is a time when Koreans travel great distances to their hometowns to gather with relatives to give thanks and perform ceremonies for their ancestors. However, the holiday is aimed at non-Koreans too with visitors highly encouraged to participate in Chuseok festivities and enjoy a traditionally cultural Korean experience. There will be many free events across the peninsula such as songpyeon (rice cake) making, folk games and tight rope dancing, and several palaces, shrines and Joseon royal tombs will offer free admission during the Chuseok holiday to those wearing hanboks.

Another way to get a true cultural experience is by visiting Hanoks - traditional Korean houses that date back to the Joseon Dynasty. Several hanok folk villages have been maintained and preserved to allow visitors a glimpse into Korean life hundreds of years ago and are an ideal mini-break during the Chuseok holiday weekend.

Conveniently located in Seoul, the Bukchon Hanok Village is an ideal day trip during the Chuseok holiday weekend. Divided between three villages, the majority of hanoks are located in Gahoe-dong and have been very well preserved – certainly as people still live in the hanok alleys (where visitors are reminded by signs to keep the noise down).

Other historical spots include Paik Inje’s house, a former women’s residence in the late Joseon Dynasty, and other houses that invite guests to participate in traditional Korean folk painting, embroidery and hanji (Korean paper) courses.

Over in Gyedong-gil, visitors can catch a glimpse of everyday life around Bukchon in their grocery stores, hair shops and public sau-

nas. At the Bukchon Traditional Cultural Center, try your hand at calligraphy or traditional knotting or witness a tea ceremony. Take a step outside and the popular Samcheongdong-gil area, which starts at Gyeongbokgung Palace, is famous for its cafes, museums, art galleries and upscale boutiques. Nature lovers will find one-hundred-year old pine trees and scenic views in Samcheong Park located past Samcheong Tunnel. The interactive Bukchon Museum, also showcases modern Korean goods and commodities that are no longer in use and visitors can use these objects in activities and games before they leave.

Over in Jeonju, which is located in North Jeolla Province, one of South Korea’s oldest cities and most popular tourist destinations boasts the Jeonju Hanok Village. The largest cluster of hanoks in South Korea, Jeonju has over 700 traditional houses where people still reside. The slightly upturned roof edges are a distinct architectural feature of the hanoks which never fails to impress. The streets of this hanok village are lined with gorgeous

Korean Language Program Mon/Weds or Tues/Thurs (various classes over 10 weeks) Cost: Free (except textbook) Itaewon Global Village Center, 5f Hannam Building, 737-37 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-Gu, Seoul FRI-SUN

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(Sept 22-23: registration)

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KOTESOL International Conference & English Expo From 10am Cost: KRW 45,000- KRW100,000 COEX Convention Center, Seoul www.kotesol.org

MORE INFO: Andong Hahoe Folk Village 40, Jongga-gil, Pungcheon-myeon, Andong-si, Gyeongsangbuk-do From Andong Bus Terminal, take bus 46 to Hahoe Village * Bus 46 (Info: 6.20am-6:20pm. Runs 10 times a day) 054-854-3669, 054-852-3588 / 054-840-6974 www.hahoe.or.kr Adults KRW 3,900 / Teenagers KRW 1,500 / Children KRW 1,000

take a boat to the Buyeongdae Cliffs and enjoy a gorgeous panoramic view of the city, which includes a 600-year old zelkova tree dedicated to the goddess Samsin. The village is also renowned for being one of the largest and most famous Confucian academies whose founder graces the KRW 1000 note. Best of all, this village is not overly crowded with tourists, and allows visitors to get away from the hustle and bustle of their everyday lives.

South Korea’s hanok villages are considered by many to be urban street museums that give living examples of what life was like during the Joseon Dynasty. The fall season is also an ideal time to visit these outdoor villages because the temperature is perfect for long walks and the fall colors are breathtaking. If you’re staying in South Korea during the Chuseok holiday weekend, book your ticket early and avoid the crowds for the perfect holiday break. With several cultural events to commemorate the holiday at hanok villages throughout the country, find your cultural side and your own way to give thanks to Korea this vacation.

September 2015 www.groovekorea.com 25

traditional housing while intertwined with many historical sites such as the Gyeonggijeon Shrine, Jeonju Hyanggyo (Confucian School), Omokdae and Imokdae Historical Pavillion.

Of special note is the Hagindang, which is the largest hanok in the village and was historically a residence for high ranking officials from the

late Joseon Dynasty. Jeonju is not only popular for its hanok village but is also the birthplace of many Korean dishes including bibimbap. The hanoks also offer a traditional Korean experience with a Jeonju twist as visitors can watch a traditional wedding ceremony, create their own soju concoction at the alcohol museum or make their own hanji.

Andong Hahoe Folk Village in Northern Gyeongsang Province is a Unesco World Heritage site and is a perfect weekend getaway for nature lovers and history buffs.

Previously home to the Ryu Family of Pungsan for 600 years, the village is an impressive example of extremely well-preserved hanok structures. The hanoks themselves are unlike any other as these traditional houses have not been altered in any way and still retain their original architectural features of tiled and thatched roofs. At the hanok village entrance stands several Jangseung which are wooden statues believed to guard against misfortune.

Also boasting exquisite scenic sites such as the Nakdong River which encircles the village,

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

MORE INFO: Jeonju Hanok Village 15-11 Pungnamdong 3(sam)-ga, Wansan-gu, Jeonju-si, Jeollabuk-do From Jeonju Station: Depart: Opposite of Wedding Hall- Stop at Jeondong Catholic Church(Hanok Village) Bus Number: 12,60,79,109,119,142,508,513,536,542,546 (25 min) From Express Bus Terminal: Bus #5-1: Opposite of Taxi Stop, walk 150 m toward Inter-City Bus Terminal Direction,interval 15 min Bus#79: Bus stop in front of Terminal Front Gate (interval: 25 min)Bus Number 5-1, 79, 15 min http://tour-eng.jeonju.go.kr/ 063-281-2114 Free

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MORE INFO: Bukchon Hanok Village 37, Gyedong-gil, Jongno-gu, Seoul Subway: Anguk station (line 3, exit 2) Go straight for about 300 m to arrive at Bukchon Hanok Village. http://bukchon.seoul.go.kr/eng/index.jsp 02-2148-4160 / 02-2148-4161 Free

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

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C omm u nit y Chest

Looking to lay the foundation for a professional English-teaching community in Korea, KOTESOL readies for its international conference Story by Gil Coombe Photos courtesy of KOTESOL

I 26 www.groovekorea.com September 2015

n Korea, English language teaching (ELT) at any level – elementary, secondary, tertiary, or adult – has its share of rewards and frustrations. The balance between the two really depends on the individual teacher, the school, and the particular group of students that are looking to that educator to lead them to a brighter, English-fuelled future.

Native English teachers have traditionally had little influence on school curriculum, policies, and administration and, while classroom management is a vital component of the interaction with (and the taming of) the students, most teachers are still at the mercy of administrators in terms of which students actually walk through the classroom door to begin with. That leaves the typical teacher in Korea with one undisputed way to control their work environment – improve themselves.

MORE INFO KOTESOL International Conference & English Expo COEX Convention Center, Seoul October 10-11 (Pre-conference workshops: October 9) Pre-Registration (online before Sept.

30): 2-Day Pass (Sat. 10 and Sun. 11) Members KRW 50,000, Non-members KRW 75,000; Workshops (Fri. 9) – Members KRW 45,000, Non-members KRW 100,000 Onsite Registration: 2-Day Pass (Sat. 10 and Sun. 11) - Members KRW 60,000, Non-members KRW 85,000; Workshops (Fri. 9) – Members KRW 45,000, Non-members KRW 100,000 (Annual membership: KRW 50,000) www.kotesol.org www.facebook.com/groups/kotesol

September 2015 www.groovekorea.com 27

However, the general assumption held by many native English-speaking teachers in Korea is that KOTESOL primarily targets university instructors, even though there has been great efforts to encourage the participation of teachers from all age levels. Add to this the transient nature of the expat teaching community – and a general cynicism regard-

your choice and have a greater chance to network with like-minded individuals in the same boat as yourself.

Book stalls from major publishers offer a significant chance to see what books your school should be using but aren’t – ask for a free inspection copy, and many of the publishers will send you one – and if you are looking to pursue higher education, drop by one of the university stalls to see the options with regards to distance learning, scholarships, and other important considerations.

Of course, while the IC is the undeniable centrepiece of the KOTESOL brand, it would be a bit much to expect teachers to pay for the annual membership simply for a once-ayear event. Fortunately, there are several other events throughout the year that provide further PD and networking opportunities. This includes the National Conference, which was held in Seoul on May 30 this year, and conferences for several of the regional KOTESOL chapters. Some regional chapters also offer end-of-year symposiums and Thanksgiving dinner’s to cement the sense of community and bolster networking opportunities. Other benefits of membership include the monthly magazine The English Connection, access to the latest versions of the research publications Korea TESOL Journal and The International Conference Proceedings, and of course discounts to the conferences.

For some, there is a general feeling that teaching is Korea is not real, like we are all playing dress-up waiting for our real careers to begin. The fact is, Korea has numerous talented teachers who should be encouraged to make a go of it, to view teaching as a genuine career option. Professional bodies like KOTESOL play a vital role in legitimizing an industry that has always struggled to escape the stereotypes that have arisen around it (many perpetuated by the teachers themselves). Here’s hoping that several new faces walk through the door of the International Conference this year, ready to take the leap into teaching as a professional career.

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

It brings together both international and domestic presenters, universities looking to sell their programmes, and a number of publishers eager to demonstrate the utility of their latest books.

ing the stability and professionalism of expat volunteer organizations – and KOTESOL has struggled to gain a significant foothold in the minds of those teachers hungry for professional development, or even just hoping to pick up enough tips to survive.

Which is why the International Conference (IC), held this year on October 10-11 at COEX Convention Center, should be a priority for those interested in joining a professional English teaching community but wary of whether that community will truly meet their needs. It provides a neat snapshot of the organization in action as it brings together both international and domestic presenters, universities looking to sell their programmes, and a number of publishers eager to demonstrate the utility of their latest books. And more importantly, it brings together enthusiastic teachers from all around Korea (and overseas).

The IC is centered around presentations on a variety of topics, with the many concurrent sessions allowing attendees to pick and choose those topics most interesting or relevant to them. This year, the overall theme of the conference is “Transitions in Education, Transitions in ELT.” The call was for presentations that focused particularly on the following areas: inquiry approaches to teaching, promoting creativity, and “101” sessions for basic classroom skills. The latter is a clear indication of KOTESOL’s desire to reach out to beginning teachers at all levels by providing sessions that are likely to direct impact their teaching. All that it needs now is for those beginning teachers to come and engage with the ELT community. At the time of writing this article, the proposals that had been accepted had just been announced, though the schedule and details have not yet been released (information will be updated at http://koreatesol.org/ic2015).

Probably the most important element in any conference is networking. As an attendee at the previous three international conferences, I have witnessed some great presentations and some weak ones (welcome to world of conferences!), but the one constant is the consistent enthusiasm of those in the audience, and the sheer variety of backgrounds represented. Talk to the person next to you and discover someone who is facing similar headaches at their work as you are. Talk to the person behind you and find out they are high up at a school you’ve always wanted to apply to. Talk to the person in front of you and find out they have this intriguing sounding classroom management technique that you are so going to steal.

Traditionally, this annual event has been a two-day weekend affair only, but as with last year (to coincide with the national holiday), a pre-conference workshop day has been added on the Friday (October 9) that runs independently of the other two days. This year the four main workshops are Media & Technology, Young Learners & Teens, Professional Development (PD), Teaching & Learning. Run and paid for separately from the main conference, the main advantage of the workshop day is that you can go into more detail in the subject of

C OMMUNI TY

So how much room for improvement is there in ELT? Though Korea has sought to heighten the qualifications required for native English speakers seeking employment at public schools and universities, the fact remains that currently a number of teachers in Korea arrive lacking teaching experience and subsequently undergo a baptism of fire, expected to quickly master content, classroom management, cultural expectations, and good old-fashioned office politics with minimal training and little further professional development.

The flip side of this is the group of teachers that come out of this fire singed but hardened, and find themselves building an actual teaching career in Korea - planned or otherwise.

Some get bitten by the teaching bug, some get bitten by the Korean lifestyle, some get bitten by love and everything else just tags along for the ride. Whatever the primary motivation, it is not uncommon to see these teachers a few years down the line standing in front of yet another class, delivering yet another lesson they could do in their sleep, and wondering, “Is this really the best I can do?”

Ideally, an organization like Korea Teachers of English to Speakers of Other Languages (KOTESOL) would be one of the first ports of call for members of either of these groups. Established in October 1992 with the purpose of promoting teaching in Korea as an established field that requires professional development, research, and cross-cultural understanding, this non-profit organization consists of 10 regional chapters (including Seoul, Busan-Gyeongnam, Suwon-Gyeonggi and even Jeju) and opens membership to any English teacher regardless of level or nationality (with the website even stating that 40% of KOTESOL members are Korean).

C OMMUNI TY Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

Seorae’s European Gateway

S

eorae is a little part of Seoul that has a certain je nais sais quoi. Famed for being that little part of the capital that brings the French quarter to Korea, experience some European culture, for an afternoon at the very least.

Located about ten minutes away from the busy Express Bus Terminal, Seorae-ro has for many years been a heavily French populated area with many expats gravitating towards this South-eastern area of Seoul. The streets are quaint with a mixture of European architecture and French style boutiques and bakeries, with Korea’s very own Paris Croissant sitting proudly in the middle of the street with a specialised French bakery style menu. Restaurants with French inspired cuisine abound, and French and other foreign kids animate the streets after a school day at the Lycée Français de Séoul. and signage is shared between French and Korean.

The Seorae Global Village Center (SGVC) is central to this special societal feeling, encapsulating that French feeling with services for the local community spanning Korean, French and English. The third floor premises of this cozy yet inviting center is geared toward the local mothers and children, although anybody is

C omm u nit y Chest

Strengthening Korean and French relations, the Seorae Global Village Center also extends a warm welcome to the whole expat community.

Story by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring Photos courtesy of Seorae Global Village Center

welcome through their doors.

The SGVC is very community focused providing morning Korean language programs for both beginners and advanced levels. A free speaking afternoon session on Fridays also encourages the groups to mix and practice the language from the week. The next program starts on September 7, although the center will continue to accept registration for courses until all places are filled.

Traditionally, the center has been - and continues - to be very active within the local community, arranging volunteering programs.

Currently, Wednesday afternoons are dedicated to encouraging the local expat residents to volunteer a service of the choice. The volunteers, who are mainly foreign adults, offer their language skills and their time to provide reading sessions in both English and French, play board games and participate in different arts and craft classes. Children of all ages up to nine are invited to join in the sessions which doubles up as a local playgroup for the kids once school is out at midday.

The Seorae Global Village Center is also interested in repeating its previous success of volunteering with a local school or charity and are currently in talks to arrange a new program starting this fall. Previous sessions have included bringing a group of volunteers to a hospital to read and chat to patients and keep them company. The center currently has many people who would be interested in volunteering and would love to hear from local organisations in the Banpo area to arrange their next exciting project.

Seorae also arranged many cultural events for the local community to experience any-

28 www.groovekorea.com September 2015

Class at a Glance… all taking place at the Seorae Global Village Center

Wednesday Events

After Class Activity Weds – 1pm-1.50pm Storytelling in French Free

After Class Activity Weds – 2pm-2.50pm Board Games in French Free

After Class Activity Weds – 3pm-3.50pm Janggu for Kids Free

Weekly Events

After School Program Fri – 4:15pm-5pm Art for Kids KRW 5,000/child

Korean Crafts Class Thurs -1:30pm-3pm Plus material Fee

Korean Cooking Class Monday September 7th 1:30pm to 3pm KRW 20,000

Educational Programs

Korean Language Program Starting September 7th (for 12 weeks) Mon/Weds or Tues/ Thurs Free (except textbook)

Free Talking Class Fridays – 10:00-11:30 Free

thing and everything from Hanji paper craft to Korean cooking. September brings a program of Korean craft classes every Thursday to try a hand at the detailed art with participants bring home all of their creations. There will also be a Korean cooking class on Monday September 7, inviting cuisine enthusiasts to make the all-time Korean favorite bibimbap. September also sees the Chuseok holiday at the end of the month, and a special theme day program will provide an occasion to make Korean sweets and share with the less fortunate in the neighbourhood.

The volunteers, who are mainly foreign adults, offer their language skills and their time to provife reading sessions in both English and French, play board games and participate in different arts and craft classes.

Seorae has a strong link with the local community so it comes to no surprise that are working closely and in conjunction with CFC (Cercle Franco-Coréen) as a community partner. Supporting each other’s events and volunteering needs allows expats - of any nationality - to get involved. If you are in the Banpo area, drop into the center, bring the kids and experience something Korean, European and global.

MORE INFO Events are mainly free. However fees for some classes range between KRW5,000KRW20,000 won. Check the website or Facebook page for more details.

9am-6pm (lunch break 12pm-1pm).

Open Monday to Friday, except Public Holidays. http://global.seoul.go.kr/seorae/ 3rd floor, Jeon Building, Seorae-ro 28, Seocho-gu, Seoul (90-12 Banpo 4-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul) Subway: Express Bus Terminal Station (Line 3 or 7, Exit 6).

02-2155-8915~6 seorae@sba.seoul.kr www.facebook.com/seoraegvc

Hee Jin Kim shares her views on fashion design, the Korean market and her own success

H

ee Jin Kim has a story to tell.

Every young designer has a dream to hit the big global catwalks and Hee Jin is no exception. Having now successfully launched her label Kimmy J in 2013, the designer couldn’t be more optimistic about the brand’s future.

A line in womenswear, Kimmy J is a brand that communicates a natural beauty, which the designer describes as “awakening a new thinking rather than trying to force it”. Refreshing for some, Hee Jin reveals an innovative approach to female fashion, stating how the brand hopes to be a place where clothing design, quality and detail can meet.

Hee Jin Kim shares her views on fashion design, the Korean market and her own success Hee Jin is a prestigious Yonsei University graduate, having completed a human environmental design degree in 2009. She explains how she initially wanted to be an installation artist, first through dance but then looked at art on the human body - or clothes. It was then that she started designing clothes and cemented her passion - and credentials - by going to study fashion design at St Martin’s College in London. After completing a course in Fashion Design for Graduates and Professionals in 2012

and a stint at the Cheil Industry Shanghai Design Team & Shinsegae Armani Merchandise team, Kimmy J was launched.

Of the brand, she explains “I interpret what I see in my own way and that’s the source of my inspiration. I’m always thinking and dreaming about things at night and I constantly write notes and draw”. However, she quickly clarifies that her inspirations come from all walks of life, stating “there isn’t really one person that is leading me”.

Four collections on and the brand has certainly developed its own unique style and detail. Additionally, the brand has an eye catching and somewhat intriguing motto - ‘the light shines into the darkness’ -to recognise two sides, two moods and two concepts that are reflective of the clothes and the people that wear them. Hee Jin likes to perceive her target lady as, perhaps on first impression, a small and fragile girl but one that has a soulful charisma.

The latest collection, The Crimson Hearts (Kimmy’s Seoul), certainly fulfils its expectations with a charismatic but casual selection.

Ranging jackets, t shirts, and loose fitting trousers, the styles are not only fashionable but expressive too. The colors, design, and detail have been developed with love and harmony.

Hee Jin explains “we offer high quality clothes which follows the deep living philosophy in the world around us”.

Aimed at the grungier fashionista, the collection boasts many monochrome colors, fixating black with a lighter combination. Cou-

K i m m y

J

Must have item!

More Info: KIMMY.J The Crimson Hearts collection is available directly from the showroom or email for stockists details.

1F,19, Bongeunsaro 34 Gil, Gangnamgu, Seoul, Subway station: Eonju Station (Line 9, Exit 5) Bus: 147, 141, 3412, 643, 4211, 241, 242 070-7582-7871 www.kimmyj.com 10am-8pm Instagram ID : KIMMYJ_OFFICIAL

pled with block boots, side zips and rips and tears in pantyhose; a look aimed at somebody who considers being stared at as out of sheer curiosity rather than a sign of rudeness. And no doubt, be a person who appreciates these intrinsic offerings as well.

The future of fashion looks bright as this young lady sees Korea as an ample starting point for Asian designers. She notes how Korea’s high street series have continued to strengthen in style and popularity and is now encouraging younger start-ups within the domestic fashion world. Hee Jin believes the key is knowing your home market, explaining “if we know the characteristic of the nation and take advantage of these benefits, we can experiment with a new type of fashion market”.

And after just two years of experimenting, it seems that Hee Jin knows the fashion market well. With a showroom in Gangnam, international stockists in the UK, France, Singapore, Ukraine and China and a shop opening planned in the next five years in Paris, Hee Jin is no stranger to success. A well-received catwalk at this year’s Seoul Fashion Week, a bronze award at the Design For Asia awards and continuous support from the Seoul Design Foundation can only mean bigger and brighter things for Kimmy J. Hee Jin captures the moment as she reminisces about her recent Seoul Fashion Week success, saying, “I was very happy. I think we have a future to create more stunning collections”. And with a resume boasting so many successes so far, it’s only a matter of time before her dreams materialize.

Kimmy J’s The Crimson Hearts collection is perfect for the changing season.

The popular high leather biker jacket is a stylish yet practical addition to anyone’s wardrobe with a number of zips and pockets suitable for any event, meet up or appointment. Whether loose fitting or figure hugging, there’s a style for all shapes. Team up the jacket with some fashionable t-shirts from the collection, with a jacket that can be used to dress up – or casual down – any outfit. Available at $713.

Story by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring / photos courtesy of Kimmy J

Kimmy J Discovering a Seoul Collection

I N S I G H T Edited by Anita McKay (anita@groovekorea.com)

Whose

Business is it Anyway?

Story by Yuna Lee and Darren Bean / Illustration by Craig stuart

H 30 www.groovekorea.com September 2015

as your favorite restaurant or bar changed slightly, but you just can’t put your finger on how or why? The reason may be a combination of economics and law, and if you are thinking about leasing commercial property to start a business, this column will warn you of a danger you may not have anticipated.

The gwalligum issue arises when a commercial tenant operating a successful business is forced out of a lease, owing to short commercial leases with large deposits. Though the same term is used to refer to apartment control costs (such as the maintenance of public areas and security), it has a much broader meaning in a commercial context, almost the same as “goodwill.” Essentially, it’s the value of the business beyond what can be tangibly valued — the value of reputation, customer loyalty, and other similar intangibles.

I N S I G H T Edited by Anita McKay (anita@groovekorea.com)

So what’s the problem?

Commercial leases are typically for a very short term, one to two years. But remodeling the interior, advertising, and building a client base all cost tremendous sums of money and time, and involve substantial risk. Hence, by law, even when a lease term is less than five years, the tenant can elect to extend the lease up to a maximum of five years. This is still much shorter than the 10, 20 or even 100-year commercial year leases often seen in other nations.

So what happens after five years?

Yuna Lee is a Korean attorney practicing in Seoul. In 2015, working with the Ministry of Justice, Professor Kim Jae Hwan (Korea University, and the Korean Federation of Small and Medium Businesses), she researched and published legal and economic analysis of the gwalligum and other commercial tenancy issues and suggested revisions to applicable Korean law.

Darren Bean is a California attorney living in Seoul who lectures in international law and practices international IP and international commercial transaction law.

September 2015 www.groovekorea.com 31

Well, if the landlord so chooses, the tenant has to leave, which would then allow the landlord (or a new tenant) to take over the business. And while customers may know the location, they will probably not notice if the owner of the business changes hands. Though it’s true the original business owner may hold some trademarks or other IP (rarely is that IP registered, and even if it is, the new storefront could be “just different enough” to avoid liability), the business under new ownership will often appear almost the same to customers.

At this point in time, the goodwill, the reputation of the business, essentially transfers to the landlord (or the new tenant, likely a close friend or relative) for free. So maybe what you, the customer, notice is that the chairs seem a bit different, the menu is a bit different, the staff are new, but

what has happened is much more sinister.

Some assert this theft of goodwill was a major factor propelling the growth of Sangsu as a café and art area.

Some business owners who helped build reputations in Hongdae were forced out and went around the corner to try again, while previous landlords enjoyed the windfall.

Of course, from the landlord’s perspective, the tenant got what they bargained for — five years in one place, and any other guarantees (non-competition, etc.) should have been negotiated separately.

But this fails to consider the reality of a commercial tenant. Are leases really negotiable? Will a tenant who insists on adding clauses protecting their name be given those clauses or just be passed over? And what more can the tenant be expected to pay? The market already sees deposits exceeding a year’s rent and jeonsae at nearly 80 percent of purchase price — were tenants to pay more, they would expect to be owners. It seems like economically there is no room to inject extra money into a commercial lease.

There are numerous other issues in commercial tenancy as well, including the ability to transfer a lease when needed. While legislation offers some certainty, more recent proposals to the legislature have suggested a specialized mediation committee for resolving these disputes without the expense of suit. Whether this committee is created and what powers it would have are not certain.

In the meantime, remember that leases aren’t forever, but expenditures are.

Story by Elaine Ramirez / Photos by Dukhwa

ENJOY

the

light show St. Mary’s Clinic in Gangnam offers a foreigner-friendly laser eye surgery experience

Dr.Sung-hwan Kim Dr.Hwee-jong Lee

LASIK VS

LASEK

32 www.groovekorea.com September 2015

T

here are three things I recommend every expat to do during their stay in Korea: hike a mountain, drink with the locals, and get LASIK surgery.

Korea prides itself not only on its natural beauty and, um, social culture, but also its world-class health care industry, which produces $64 billion I dollars in revenue every year. Known to be safe and efficient, LASIK and LASEK procedures in Korea are also incredibly cheap, costing between KRW 1.2 million and 2.4 million versus the $6,000$10,000 that patients in developed countries might pay. After five years of putting it off, I decided to tackle the final challenge on my bucket list and go under the laser.

At Gangnam St. Mary’s Clinic, near the razzle dazzle of Gangnam Station’s Exit 10 in southern Seoul, the founding doctors Kim Sung-hwan and Lee Hwee-jong have been offering LASIK, LASEK, and other treatments for 15 years. They named the clinic after their alma mater, the prestigious St. Mary’s Hospital in southern Seoul, famous in Korea for pioneering cataract treatment and cornea transplants.

Dana Lee, the English liaison, says there are plenty of reasons an expat might be scared of getting LASIK or LASEK in a foreign country.

“I think first reason is the communication problem, and the second is if something happens in the future and you have a problem

with your eyes and you need to see the doctor who did the operation,” which might be difficult once they leave the country, she tells me during my pre-surgery consultation.

But she says they do not have to worry at Gangnam St. Mary’s, which provides lifetime insurance to all patients, who can meet the same doctor who did the operation every time they visit.

“We are really proud that the doctors are still here. They have been here for 15 years,” she says. ‘‘We have insurance for every patient who had their surgery done here, and this applies to foreigners. So if you have problems, we’ll be responsible for that.”

The clinic also provides expat patients with an English-language version of their records after six months for their future medical needs.

It keeps the records forever, and still has the files of the first foreigners who were treated 12 years ago.

Dana ensures that all English-speaking patients get their questions answered, relays all their concerns to the doctor, provides the all-important forms, prescription directions, and liability contracts in English, and stands by their side from beginning to end.

“I’ll be here all the time and they have my cell number, and we have our English website … and if they want to make an appointment, they can just call me,” she says. “I follow them all the way, even to the operation room so they can talk during the operation.”

The clinic performs both LASIK and LASEK procedures, which both take 15 minutes. So how do you choose which one is right for you?

With LASIK, the doctor carves a flap into the cornea, flips it up, does the job and seals it back down. The cornea heals in a day or two. With LASEK, the doctor creates a hole, usually with an electric brush, does the job, and patches it up with a transparent bandage contact thinner than a prescription lens. The patients wear bandages for 4-5 days as the cells grow back.

While both procedures themselves are painless, Dana explains, the days immediately following LASEK are more painful as it has a longer recovery time. LASEK patients also experience dry eyes for 6 to 12 months and halo or glare, and cloudy or blurred vision when exposed to sunlight in the first few days or weeks.

It is important to keep the eyes moist during this time to prevent the bandage from falling out — a painful experience that requires immediate treatment at the nearest optometrist or urgent care facility.

On the other hand, because the LASIK scar leaves a small line where the flap healed, there is a very, very small risk of damaging the cornea in an impact injury. “If that happens, it’s really easy for us to fix it. However, if you lose your flap, then it’s a major problem. It’s very rare,” Dana explains. That’s why clinic advises those who play contact sports or practice martial arts to choose LASEK instead.

Another reason people choose LASEK is because there is a 5 percent chance of regression (though Gangnam St. Mary’s claims to have this down to 2 percent) after laser eye treatment, whether it be LASIK or LASEK. If that happens, the clinic can operate again, but

LASIK patients have less cornea to work with, meaning they have only one chance to get it right.

In fact, because of that, 80 percent of patients will choose LASEK even if they qualify for the fast-healing LASIK, Dana says. Due to the thinness of my corneas, I went with LASEK. The clinic boasts a lower-than-average regression rate because of its strict follow-ups and prescriptions. Check-ups and eye drops are especially important 2-3 weeks after the procedure, so the clinic will even monitor the expats’ progress and prescription through their home-country optometrist if they leave Korea after the surgery.

They keep patients on a strict daily eye drop regimen and follow-up visitations after one day, five days, one week, two weeks, three months, six months, and yearly thereafter.

“That’s why we call if the patients don’t come in for follow-ups. We make sure that they come in. That’s why we have a very low failure rate,” she says.

THE EXPERIENCE

I was advised not to use water on my face (wash with a wet nap) or hair for a week. Patients should also not wear makeup or exercise for a week (powder or sweat might enter the eye), and no heavy exercise such as ball or contact sports and swimming for one month.

Patients should also not drink or smoke for one week, and be careful around barbecues.

After four days I had to return to work, but my vision was still distorted — double vision with different depths made it a pain to look at a monitor, but my work-phobic eyes found it easy to watch a TV show that night with no problem.

By the fifth day, my daytime vision was fine, the pain was gone, and I could run and jump with the other kids. Blurry or cloudy vision at night subsided day by day. Dry eyes would also lead to blurry vision, so it was important to keep applying eye drops every two hours.

The doctor then prescribed me mega-hydrating hyaluronic eye drops — the liquid, thick and cooling, provides long-lasting, soothing relief for dry eyes, making it a pleasure to follow the prescription.

It took about two months for my night vision to clear up, although dry eyes brought back some blurriness if I skipped a dose.

Now I see Dr. Lee once a month for five-minute check-ups, and can safely recommend my painless, stress-free experience with Gangnam St. Mary’s Clinic. Don’t forget to enjoy the light show.

MORE INFO: Gangnam St. Mary’s Eye Center Seoul, Seocho-gu, Seocho 4-dong 1306-8, Daedong Building, 5th floor (Gangnam Station, Exit 10) Open every day from 10am to 7pm. (Monday-Wednesday), 9pm. (Thursday-Friday), 5pm (Saturday) and 1pm. (Sunday, for Saturday procedure follow-ups) 02-3481-9977 or 010-9078-9975 for Dana Lee www.perfectvision.co.kr

September 2015 www.groovekorea.com 33

The clinic’s general waiting room has a relaxed atmosphere. There are lockers for patients to keep their stuff, water, coffee, and tea, and fun, non-K-pop music like Sam Smith and Maroon 5 playing in the background.

During the consultation, an attendant guides you through five easy eye tests, including a vision test, an eye dryness test, and a cornea measurement test, which take 10-15 minutes altogether. The doctor — I had Dr. Lee – then performs a final test to inspect your retina.

To prepare for the consultation and procedure, patients cannot wear contacts for one week prior, and should not wear makeup, perfume, or scented body products on the day of the operation because the laser machine is very sensitive to smell. After the procedure, they can walk out wearing sunglasses and a baseball cap to their new, glasses-free life.

On surgery day, I read and signed liability papers and headed to the back of the clinic, where a smaller waiting room with lush chairs was playing soothing orchestra music. After flipping through the illustrated booklet detailing the procedure, I put on the blue surgery gown and cap, left my glasses on the table and headed into the operating room. It was finally go time.

With Dana by my side, I scooted onto the operating bed and under the laser machine.

Dr. Lee started by wiping any residue from my eyelids and taping my right eye shut. After my left eye was numbed with eye drops, then came the freaky part — a nurse came at me with a clamp not much different from ones seen in Eternal Sunshine of the Spotless Mind or A Clockwork Orange to force my eye open, as I fought the urge to squint. Inserting it was quick and easy, and another nurse kept the eyeball moist with an irrigator, which kept me calm and dulled the need to blink. I focused on the green beam of light ahead as the doctor brushed down my cornea. Then he adjusted the machine to fit over my eye, and I concen-

trated on not moving as the laser blocked all my peripheral sight. The procedure — and the real fun — began.

My vision exploded into a kaleidoscopic light show of red and gold rings that danced as the laser beamed. It was over in moments. They treated my second eye, with the laser show being the reward for enduring the clamp, and we were done. The doctor lifted the machine away, and for the first time, with perfectly clear vision, I saw a sign they had posted on the ceiling: “Thank you!”

I walked out of the clinic with my sunglasses, perfect eyes, and a strange sense of invincibility. Carrying my old prescription glasses, I asked my friend if he wanted to run over them with his Jeep. (He declined.)

At home, I had thrown a sheet over the window as ordered, creating a cool, dark cave where I was to hibernate for the next four days. Every two hours after the surgery, I went through the eye drop regimen: steroid, antibiotics, and tears 15 minutes apart, meaning an hour between rounds for the whole day and the next morning for as long as I was awake.

The clinic gives you an iced eye mask for the pain, a compact zipper bag for the eye drops, and goggles to wear in case you turn in your sleep. Don’t sleep on your side or face for a few days. (Mysteriously, I woke up with the goggles in my hand.)

The following day, I returned to the clinic for a check-up, and the eye drop regimen was reduced to 4-6 times a day. It was on my way home when the pain started to kick in.

Twenty-four hours after the surgery, my eyes began to burn as the cells regrew. They felt dry and light-sensitive, with my vision cloudy and blurred. Fluorescent lights are terrible things.

You shouldn’t look at any TV, computer, or smartphone during the recovery period, either.

I cheated a glance at my smartphone to play some podcasts, but even with a screen-tinting app, the pain was enough to keep me away from long-term use.

The pain subsided quickly, but with the light sensitivity and cloudy vision, the next few days became a great opportunity to catch up on rest in my awesome cave — the best excuse yet not to check Facebook or email, and friends would visit with food and audiobooks.

34 www.groovekorea.com September 2015

Edited by Charlotte Hammond (charlotte.hammnd@gmail.com)

FOOD & DRINK

Less Popular

Cuisines Take a Diners’ Detour with Eateries in a Different Vein

W

ith these restaurant selections, we invite you to figuratively take a seat with the unpopular kids in the cafeteria. This is not a list of what’s up and coming or what’s hot, it’s not a list of joints that are about to go boom. These are solid, hard-working establishments slinging national cuisines that are underrepresented in Seoul. A change of scenery and culinary adventure could be yours without ever leaving the city. So get out there, branch out, and “aproveite sua refeição,” which is bon appetit in Portuguese.

gu Portu

ese

Taverna de Portugal Story by Charlotte Hammond Photos by Charlotte Hammond & Steve Sherk

Ambience Food Service Value Score

When it comes to food and wine, Portugal remains unsung compared to its romantic cousins France, Spain and Italy. Portuguese food bears a definite resemblance to its southern European family — heavy on the olive oil, colorful, beautifully paired with wine—­but holds its own levels of heat, its own style of presentation and gustation.

Whether or not you’re familiar with Portuguese food and flavors, it is absolutely a cuisine worth exploring. Taverna de Portugal, a family-style Portuguese restaurant owned and operated by a Portugese/Korean couple, is arguably Seoul’s best place to start.

Taverna de Portugal’s Hongdae space is small and sparse with an open kitchen. The menu is encouraging of platters piled with protein and bookended by rice and vegetables. The “Piri grilled chicken combo” (32,000 won) with pork belly and sausage offers a generous amount of food for two.

There’s salad and a mix of fried and roasted potatoes wedged in between the rest, too. The chili-encrusted Piri chicken is the platter’s standout. It’s a moist, flavorful, roasted whole chicken dabbed with fresh lemon. Taverna will cut the bird apart for you with scissors, Korean style. The chicken’s chili stained juices wet the rice and potatoes and make those a delight, too.

Other popular menu items are the pork and beef Franceshina: heart-stopping bricks of layered ham, sausage and steak, blanketed in cheese and surrounded by gravy. (19,000 won and 17,000 won respectively.)

Portuguese wine is a rare find in Korea, but here you can try a glass of Barco Negro (8,000 won), an uber-dark and full-bodied red that will complement anything on the menu.

Getting there From Sangsu Station (line 6) take exit 1. Do an abrupt u-turn and head toward Hongik University. Take the second left turn. Taverna de Portugal is around the corner on the right side.

90-8 Seogang-dongMapo-gu, Seoul 02-3144-4819

Ethiop

ian

Sinbad’s Kitchen Story and photo by Yoo Jin Oh

Service Value Score

Haegyeong Building 3F, 127-12 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

Hemlagat

Swed

ish

Edited by Charlotte Hammond (charlotte.hammnd@gmail.com)

Food

FOOD & DRINK

Ambience

Enjoy authentic Ethiopian food from Itaewon without traveling the 9,106 km to Africa. Originally known for their equally delicious Moroccan food, Sinbad’s Kitchen now serves three national Ethiopian dishes relatively unknown to most people. We ordered Beyaynetu and Tibse, which both include Injera, Ethiopian spongy pancake made from Teff flour, served with beef and a platter of vegetables respectively.

The two dishes (15,000 won and 16,000 won) can easily satisfy two or three people and are both convenient and appropriate to share as the dishes are traditionally eaten by hand. The Injera had a very distinct spongy texture and an addictive, slightly sour taste that went beautifully with the assorted sides of of lentil, potato, beans in the Beyaynetu. The spicy beef of the Tibse was definitely the highlight of the meal.

Without being overly spicy or salty, the beef was juicy and imbued with an intricate flavorsome mixture of herbs and seasoning. Together with the dangerously spicy chili powder and the sour Injera, both the Tibse and Beyaynetu were delicious and entirely singular in taste. No scraps were left behind. Sinbad’s staff were wonderful and provided cheerful service and much-needed guidance on how to tackle the food. Sinbad’s comes highly recommend to anyone in need of a change from your usual dinner dates or simply a deliciously affordable meal guaranteed to please and satisfy.

Story and photos by Andy Hume

Ambience Food Service Value Score

Getting there From Hoehyeon station exit 1, walk up the side street directly towards Namsan until you reach the tall Lotte Castle towers behind the Woori Bank building.

Hemlagat is on the ground floor. #123 Namsan Lotte Castle 35 Sogong -ro, Jung-gu, Seoul 02-318-3335 http://hemlagatseoul.com/

September 2015 www.groovekorea.com 35

Hemlagat, which means “home-cooked” in Swedish, occupies the groundfloor premises in the Lotte Castle complex near Namdaemun market. It’s a warm and softly lit space with a clean, modern look. So far so Scandinavian, and the complimentary complementary shot of schnapps — from a house selection of some two-dozen varieties — infuses a pleasant buzz as we surveyed the menu.

Many of the dishes revolve around pork and potato, although fish and cheese are also prominent. We started with the tongue-twisting Avsmakningsmeny, an appetizer platter featuring fish, eggs, shrimp and some gorgeous brown bread, as well as the salad and cheese plate that accompanies all mains. My Äpplefläsk, fried pork belly with caraway seeds, caramelized apples and herby mashed potato, was tasty but the thin sliced samgyeopsal meat made for an underwhelming dish. Much better was the salmon fillet served with dill-stewed potatoes. The fish was well seared on the outside and fell open perfectly on the fork.

The expected Swedish meatballs were paired with more mashed potatoes, gravy and a tart lingonberry jam. My Finnish friend pronounced these authentic, and those of us who have endured endless Saturdays in IKEA enthusiastically agreed. The star dish, though, was the Skånska Revben, a generous helping of slow-cooked pork chops served up in a creamy sauce with fried — you guessed it — potatoes. We washed everything down with a reasonably-priced bottle of white wine. Hemlagat also stocks a selection of Danish beers including offerings from Mikkeller and Evil Twin, or of course there’s always the pitchers of schnapps.

Hemlagat’s food is a great introduction to a cuisine that has not yet taken the international stage, and although the prices are on the high side — main dishes range from 28,000 won to 35,000 won — it’s well worth checking out, and there’s a cheaper brunch menu to explore as well. If you’re not from northern Europe, you may find that the combination of meat, potato and creamy sauces is too heavy. But winter will arrive, and I’ll soon be back to lay away more calories for the long hibernation ahead.

an

36 www.groovekorea.com September 2015

Edited by Charlotte Hammond (charlotte.hammnd@gmail.com)

FOOD & DRINK

Serbi

Belgrade Bar & Grill Story and photos by Jordan Redmond

Ever wanted to experience true Serbian food without the fear of getting shivved or shaken down for a bribe by corrupt cops? Belgrade Bar & Grill in Itaewon is the perfect place to dive two-footed into this mostly meaty Eastern European cuisine. True to its name, the place is very accessible, both in terms of taste and location. Belgrade strikes a fine balance between being solidly representing everyman Serbian dishes (made by a Serbian national to boot) and creating a rustic yet stylish nook from which to imbibe adult beverages with a date or a band of buddies.

A must-order is ćevapi (14,000 won), torpedo-shaped skinless beef sausages which are slathered in a twangy sour cream sauce. Traditionally referred to as “the maiden’s dream”, this dish, warmed on its heated platter, will stay juicy and pliant, allowing liberal amounts of chatter and drinking without any worry of cold meat.

Another national go-to is pljeskavica, an all-beef patty, served up on either hearty Serbian bread (W12,000 won), or stuffed with smoked pork (15,000 won) resting on a pile of fries.

Cutting open the stuffed version is a real treat as it initially deflates with a hiss like some fleshy football, leaking juice all over the receptive bed of crinkle-cut fries. In addition, a few dipping sauces are provided, the best of which is a spicy-sweet red pepper puddle — great for your meats or the dense Serbian rolls which seem to come with the ćevapi.

Chicken dishes are also available, both stuffed and rolled (14-15,000 won) and seem fine, but as Anthony Bourdain once quipped, “Chicken is for people who don’t know what they want.” For the truly undecided, you can order a massive platter of all of Belgrade’s featured meats (40,000 won).

Ambience Regrettably for this reviewer, the restaurant’s smoked meat offerings, known as meze, are winter only, so if the idea of a platter of cured pork neck, belly and Food tenderloin tickles your gullet, check back around November.

Service Belgrade’s interior setup evokes an imagined Eastern Europe, all wooden and appropriately shadowy, lending itself well to intimate, bleary-eyed encounters, Value the kind that can only happen after heavy meat and wine consumption. As Score much bar as bistro, this is a great place to induce a meat coma or power up for the long, heedless night ahead.

118-4 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu 02-796-6933

Story by Tom Birner / Photos by Steve Sherk, Dukhwa

FOOD & DRINK

Prost

Edited by Joe McPherson (food@groovekorea.com)

An earnest dirtbag magnet

H Ambience

Value Score

Getting there Prost is located directly behind the Hamilton, between Sam Ryan’s and Thursday Party.

September 2015 www.groovekorea.com 37

Food Service

ow to define Prost: an upscale yet boisterous drinking establishment, which sits behind the Hamilton Hotel in the Itaewon district of Seoul. Prost is ostensibly your typical Itaewon dirtbag magnet, but as more and more faux slick joints pop up in the area, it merits credit for a positive degree of earnestness and upkeep. The interior is aesthetically pleasing, acoustically challenging, an Okay place to bring a date if conversation isn’t your first priority.

The jams are of varying intensity, from Babyface to Marley, and while the fare of burgers, salads, and curries, served up by men in kilts, no less, says “pub,” the rest of it — the dim lighting and well-to-do clientele — clearly says “lounge.” The food and drinks are not unfairly priced, considering what Itaewon’s become, and 7,000 won will get you a microbrew. The Prost Ale is overly citrusy and hoppy, but the Prost Pilsner is clean and refreshing.

I order a burger while surrounded by sandal-clad selfie-takers and groups of men sipping cocktails that may or may not prepare them for the meat market Prost becomes at night. It’s Wednesday, and yet nearly every table is occupied. On weekends, the floor, which separates the bar from a stretch of booths and tables, is usually full by ten or eleven.

As for the food, I’d rate the burger (16,000 won) somewhere between decent and good.

The tomato chutney they slather on the patty does not blend well with the American cheese (the menu listed “bleu cheese”). It doesn’t fall apart, at least, and the mushrooms and onions do complement the chutney so that the sludgy, processed taste of the cheese is sufficiently smothered. The thick-cut fries are cooked perfectly, crisp on the outside, hot and fluffy on the inside. The salads are worthwhile. The olive-laced Caesar salad is pleasing (15,000 won) while the Cobb comes with the usual egg and cheese plus a nicely lemon-flavored chicken breast.

On a later visit I try the half roasted chicken (20,000 won), which comes with subtly apple-flavored gravy, sautéed vegetables (beans) and a modest square of potato gratin that tastes better than the airline food it resembles. The chicken is tender and juicy, nearly identical to what is sold on the back of a truck every Tuesday in Haebangchon. The last I heard, that isn’t a bad thing.

Ultimately, the food and the atmosphere are just good enough to remind me of why I love eating dinner at bars. Some places can’t decide whether they’re restaurants or nightspots and so fail as either, and though Prost will always draw a certain brand of night owl, the chefs do a decent job in the kitchen.

Story and photos by Joe McPherson

Star Chef

Edited by Joe McPherson (food@groovekorea.com)

FOOD & DRINK

is Back

A legendary fave returns and is better than ever

T

he year was 2008. The trendy Seoul culinary scene was still years away.

The first Vatos taco hadn’t been made. Linus and his famous BBQ hadn’t even arrived in Korea yet. Not a churro or honey butter chip to be seen. There was one restaurant tucked in an alley in Dogok-dong that people raved about. It went by the odd name of “Star Chef” and was run by a young chef, Hunam Kim. A veteran of the hotel restaurant scene, Chef Kim had traveled to America and created a menu inspired by his work learning different world cuisines. He made a salad with charcoal grilled beef galbi that even salad haters had to order. He made a sweet and sour wagyu beef that stayed crispy no matter how long it had been sitting in its tangy sauce. His signature dish was jokingly called “The Amazing Fish.”

It was a fresh whole mullet-yes, a humble mullet-deep fried Chinese style, ladled with

a sweet and vinegary soy sauce and topped with a cilantro and pickled ginger salad. It was deboned tableside by the server before a half lemon was squeezed on top. This food and restaurant were legendary in the Korean and expat crowds. Young Korean hipsters rubbed shoulders with Swedish car execs. It was dark, surreal and exciting.

Then it was no more.

Chef Kim moved his family to America for his daughter’s education. This nighttime fave was no more.

Last year, Chef Kim returned, and he reopened basically a Star Chef 2.0 next to Olympic Park in southeast Seoul. It’s bigger, nicer, and it still has the classic Hunam Kim flavors and sense of humor.

The classics are still there. They’re complemented by an array of dishes inspired by his more recent multi-year sojourn to America.

One of the new stars is a Beef Short Rib with Mashed Potatoes. Simple classic French braise, but this rib portion is huge, as if it was cut from

a dinosaur. Fork tender with a delectable rich sauce.

A new abalone dish for the fall menu crowns three islands of mashed potatoes with perfectly cooked abalone. The potatoes themselves were cooked with the abalone, and it’s sauced with a bisque made from the shellfish. It’s a play on textures and flavor that truly feels like fall.

The BulGalbi Salad is basically a full galbi dinner in salad form. Smoky chunks of beef go into a blend of greens with grilled mushrooms and a Parmesan oriental dressing. Beef flank steak, which we don’t see much in Seoul, comes with chimichurri and Thai salad. And then there’s the famous friend, the Amazing Fish. It can be mullet, sea bass or snapper. The mullet is the best because its humble muddiness complements the other strong flavors.

Tender with crispy skin. Topped with a bright cilantro and pickled ginger salad.

For dessert, one must try the cheesecake. It’s not the typical bland Seoul cakey cheesecake.

It’s dense, more like Cheesecake Factory, made with an Oreo crust.

The wine list is fine but could use an update.

There are some good beers on tap. Patrons can buy and reserve their own bottles of Blue Sapphire gin. This is more of a gastropub with dishes designed for sharing, with an average price of 25-35,000 won per dish. It’s great for dates or getting together with the best of friends.

38 www.groovekorea.com September 2015

MORE INFO 134 Wiryeseong-dae-ro, Songpa-gu, 5F 02-425-6565

Ambience Food Service Value Score

Story and photo by Robbie Nguyen

Kiwi Herman 2.5oz Kiwi Vodka 2oz Kiwi Juice 1oz Dragon Fruit Juice .5oz Pineapple Juice

ombating the last heat wave before Autumn, the Kiwi Herman assembles fruit juices not often utilized in Seoul. As the name suggests, the Kiwi fruit is the main star of the cocktail, with a kiwi infusion brightening up the most vanilla of spirits. The dragon fruit is an exotic modifier, most commonly seen and eaten in Southeast Asia. Combined with the pineapple and lime juice, this is a tart and sweet cocktail hanging on to the last vestiges of summer. Happy imbibing!

Story by Joe McPherson

Autumn meats for the inner carnivore

Edited by Joe McPherson (food@groovekorea.com)

C

.75oz Lime Juice .75oz Simple Syrup 1 sprig of mint (muddling) 1 red ribbon bow tie (garnish)

Reputable Brazilian in Bangbae-dong at Casa Brasil Grill. Brazilian owned. It has a lot of dishes that Brazilian food fans crave. Menu starts around 12,000 won. Get the caipirinha.

Zion Boat in Hongdae has gotten some love for a while for its authentic jerk chicken. We definitely need to give it a proper review, but check it out on your own and tell us about it.

The renowned owners of Bakers Table have opened The Lamb, which promises our yang delicacy cooked beautifully and at reasonable prices.

With autumn and winter coming, warm up with some of the best seolleongtang in town at Lee Nam Jang Seolleongtang. Giant portions of beef in that amazing long boiled beef stock. Steam up your glasses goodness.

Zion Boat 102-ho, 396-24 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu The Lamb 278-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu Lee Nam Jang Seolleongtang 165-12 Seomseong 1(il)-dong, Gangnam-gu

September 2015 www.groovekorea.com 39

Casa Brasil Grill 83-9 Dongha Building, Bangbae-ro, Seocho-gu

Story and photos by Joe McPherson

FOOD & DRINK

Where to find okra, cilantro and other rarities

S

ome items are easier to find than you think. Cilantro is much more plentiful than it used to be. Big box supermarkets tend to carry them with the other Korean herbs on a wall. You can also find them easily in Chinese grocery stores.

Try to find if a farmers’ co-op is nearby. Nonghyup usually runs these. They’re the types of places that have pics of the farmers next to their produce. I’ve found locally grown okra, eggplant chilies and even bags of beets for 2,000 won.

One of the most fun places for hard-to-find items is the Filipino market outside Hyehwa Station, exit 1, which is only open on Sundays. Longanisa sausages are a must, but they also have okra and even cans of corned beef hash. I know there are some corned beef hash fans out there. Go out and support these unique markets.

Recipe Story and photos by Joe McPherson

Southern Raspberry Fried Chicken

A few months ago, I opened a soul food themed pop-up restaurant to see how Seoulites would like the food. One of the mains was a fried chicken inspired by the chicken at the famous Buckhead Diner in Atlanta. Many southern fried chickens are brined to make them moist and to keep the breast meat from being stringy. The Buckhead Diner brined theirs in a mixture that included raspberry vinegar. In Korea, we have drinking vinegars, libations you mix with water and drink. I use a combination of raspberry drinking vinegar and raspberry juice for this one. The aroma is heavenly.

the Drinking Vinegar, Raspberry Juice, Salt and Sugar in 1. Combine a large zipper bag. Shake until everything is dissolved.

the chicken parts, seal the bag, put it in a big bowl and let it 2. Add brine in the refrigerator for at least three hours or overnight.

the flour in a large bowl and season with salt and pepper.

3. Put I like to use a lot of pepper.

40 www.groovekorea.com September 2015

Remove the chicken from the brine and discard the liquid. Let the 4.chickens drain.

5. Dredge the chicken in the flour and put them on a tray or plate.

Cover the floured chickens and let them sit in the 6. refrigerator for 15 minutes. This lets the flour soak in Ingredients

1 Chicken, cut up 2 cups Raspberry Drinking Vinegar 1 cup Raspberry Juice 1/2 cup Salt 1/2 cup Sugar Flour, for breading Salt and pepper to taste Oil for frying (not olive oil)

7.

the chicken juices, making a smooth flavorful coating.

Heat oil to 176 degrees Celsius in a deep pot half way or one-third way in a pan. Don’t overfill.

Fry chicken pieces, at most four at a time, for around five minutes or until there is no pink in the center when you cut into it. Thighs take the longest to cook.

Drain on paper towels or in a colander. Serve with 8. your favorite hot sauce.

Brewing More Than

Seoul Brew Club is making a community out of maekju

Beer

biggest reasons why the scene has grown so quickly. Homebrewers like Zitzelsberger were driven by necessity to make their own beer and connect with like-minded people if they were to drink any quality beer at all. The SBC provided the perfect space for such beer lovers to network, talk homebrewing and learn about the best new beers. Troy says that it really helped bring the community together. “It helped to foster a small community of beer geeks into what is now a 2,000+ powerhouse craft beer community.”

The group began as a social beer nexus for Seoul but has rippled outward on the peninsula. Although the group is in English and largely fueled by expats, it is also shared by many craft beer fans in the Korean community as well. Zitzelsberger says he always intended it to be this way. “I wanted the group to include everyone, locals and foreigners, which it does a good job of. Everyone contributes, and that’s what makes it a community.”

In fact, the SBC is such a proud and tight community that you may be able to recognize its members on the street. Zitzelsberger went

fruit-flavored chicken is as awful as it sounds

T

WT F

his monstrosity has been making the rounds on the internet. My guess is that the honey butter crazy has given the impression that anything sweet is what the Korean public wants. Mexicana has come out with flavored chicken that tastes like a box of Trix cereal.

They come in strawberry, banana, and melon flavors. Even fans of the honey butter craze went “WTF” over these. Mexicana, if you have a sec, before you come out with something else, how about we discuss this lovely business concept called “market testing?”

September 2015 www.groovekorea.com 41

Story by Joe McPherson / Photo courtesy of Mexicana

Mexicana’s

out of his way to print t-shirts for members who were interested. He also printed SBC Membership cards that offered discounts at Reilly’s Taphouse.

These days the group often organizes beer outings and events, like brewery tours, and promotes special events at craft beer pubs. Oftentimes restaurants and pubs will advertise special discounts for members—advertising is not allowed under membership rules unless it’s accompanied by some promotional special.

Yet, for all the promotion and socialization, the SBC still does what it was originally meant to—provide an invaluable resource for anyone who wants to learn about craft beer or homebrewing in Korea. The main difference is that in 2015 the SBC supports a much bigger community. As Zitzelsberger claims, “There’s enough collective knowledge behind the members in the SBC to answer any questions on brewing or just craft beer in general that one might have during their tenure here in the ROK.” Find them on Facebook — search ‘Seoul Brew Club’

Edited by Joe McPherson (food@groovekorea.com)

T

he craft beer scene continues to grow quickly in Korea and attracts new converts all the time. However, with such quick expansion, there’s a dire need for online information that’s updated in real-time and in English. The first place any new craft beer fan should look is on Facebook, where they can search for an open group called the Seoul Brew Club (SBC).

The SBC is a place where homebrewers and “beervangelists” routinely share reviews on beers and where to drink them, not to mention anything else worthwhile. It’s where most of the brewers, pub owners, homebrewers, and beer geeks in Korea go to gab.

Troy Zitzelsberger of Reilly’s Taphouse in Itaewon, founded SBC because “nothing like it existed on Facebook for homebrewers and craft beer fans living in Seoul and in South Korea.”

Just four years ago craft beer was still something akin to buried treasure in Korea, existing in very few places. Ironically, this is one of the

FOOD & DRINK

Story and Photo by Rob Thom

ENTERTAINMENT Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

42 www.groovekorea.com September 2015

Andong Unmasked

Andong’s annual festival brings masks and dance to the city.

Story by Hallie Bradley / Photos courtesy of Andong Festival Tourism Foundation

A

ndong was once the center of Confucianism dae Mask Dance from Goseong, alongside many other performancin Korea, but these days the city is most fa- es from around the country and abroad. Presenting local traditions, mous for the Mask Dance Festival. Taking the festival showcases numerous historical Korean mask dances for place for ten days each autumn, the tradi- tourists and residents alike. Additionally, foreign dance troupes from tion of the mask dance goes back centuries 11 countries, including China, Russia, India, Israel, Malaysia, and Taito when they were used in shamanistic rit- wan, have also joined in over the years to portray their cultures’ own uals. It was said that the spirits were restless unique use of masks and dance customs.

The dances often tell stories of love, loss, and social inequality and, one night, a daring soul entered the through masks that are used to depict differdreams of a sleeping member of the Ho clan ent characters. A famous tale performed once and requested that he make a wooden mask every three to five years is the Hahoe Byeolto be used in a ritual dance to please the othshin-gut Tal-nori, which was one of the biger spirits. In fulfilling the request, the chosen gest local events, worshipping a local god. The member was forbidden to let anyone else in dance is made up of seven acts and was used the clan know what he was doing and so he by commoners to represent the disparity and slipped away to the nearby mountains to make discrimination they felt existed between the sothe mask in solitude. On the hundredth day cial classes. In this particular tale, a fool, a hasty of his work, his lover came searching for him scatterbrained meddler, a bride, a lion, a butchand when she found him, he immediately died. er, an old widow, a depraved Buddhist monk, Thus the masks became used to ward off evil spirits and the dances performed were to ask for health and wealth, an aristocrat, a scholar, and a flirtatious young woman come together to weave a tale of intrigue. While watching, don’t be surprised if you among other things.

One of the biggest events during the festival is Seonyujulbulnori, a are drawn into the dance as spectators are invited to become particifireworks display that takes place over the Nakdong River. Blazing pants and add their own variations and energy to many of the shows.

The Andong Mask Dance Festival is a must see for anyone interpine needles are said to fall to the earth like fire rain making for a romantically beautiful scene memorable for any spectator. Popular ested in Korean history, culture, and beliefs and the city itself has mask dances include the Hahoe Byeolshin-gut Tal-nori from An- so much to see, eat, and enjoy so make a weekend of it and unmask dong, the Gwanno Mask Dance from Gangneung, and the Ogwang- Andong this autumn.

Taking place for ten days each autumn, the tradition of the mask dance goes back centuries to when they were used in shamanistic rituals

K-Movie What else to see in Andong

The Throne Right Here, Wrong Then Sunshine General release around Korea

SEP

Bongjeongsa Temple: The largest temple in Andong and the

site of the oldest wooden building in Korea, Geuknakjeon. The temple is unique in that visitors can see architecture representative of the Goryeo Dynasty next to architecture from the Joseon Dynasty.

Byeongsanseowon Confucian Academy: This Confucian school was established in 1572. The school is located a hike away from Hahoe Village and provides a peaceful respite in the mountains.

Jangseung Park:

This park, located on Chilgapsan Mountain, houses the largest collection of preserved jangseung – ancient wooden and stone totem poles that were traditionally placed outside of villages to ward off evil spirits.

Music

Drinking Boys and Girls Choir, Summer Coats, Classy Wallet, Baekma 10pm / Cost: Free Communes in Daegu SAT

SEP

4

MUSIC

SEP

Violet Lea and Night Lights, 3Volt, Baekma 10pm / Cost: Free The Basement in Busan

5

MUSIC

Heotjesabap:

a kind of bibimbap that substitutes soy sauce for gochujang.

MUSIC

Ladies’ Night Vol 3: Make Some Noise (Charity Gig) 7.30pm- Midnight Cost: KRW 10,000 (in advance) KRW 15,000 (Ladies on the door) KRW 20,000 (Males on the door) Gogos2 Mapogu Seogyodong 407-3 Basement floor https://www.facebook.com/ events/445210729014964/

chicken, noodles, and vegetables marinated in soy sauce

Andong soju:

a traditional soju with a higher alcohol content than regular soju

Music

Maroon 5 From 8pm Cost: KRW 99,000-KRW 132,000 Seoul Olympic Gymnasium, 424 Olympic-ro, Songpa-gu, Seoul ~NOV.1

SEP

10~

FRI-SUN

SEP

11-13

MUSIC

Hainu (from Japan), Vidulgi OoyoO, Juck Juck GRUNZIE, Table People, Baekma 8pm-midnight Cost: KRW 15,000 (+ free drink) Strange Fruit. Mapogu Seokgyodong 330-15 https://www.facebook.com/ events/797844903666288/

MUSIC

Summersend: Hongdaerock Showcase 10.30pm / Cost: KRW 10,000 Club DGBD. Mapo-gu Jandari-ro 23 https://www.facebook.com/ events/408700089327199/

September 2015 www.groovekorea.com 43

12

7,9

Cirque De Soleil 7pm / Cost: KRW 60,000-KRW 250,000 Big Top Theater, Jamsil Sports Complex, 10 Jamsil-dong, Songpa-gu, Seoul

Affordable Art Fair 11am-6pm (and late until 8pm on Fri Sept 12) Cost: KRW 10,000 (adults), KRW 8,000 (12-18 year olds), Free (under 12/over 65s) DDP (Dongdaemun Design Plaza), 281 Euljiro, Jung-Gu, Seoul

SEP

SEP

EVENT

Music

SAT

MON,WED

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

Andong jjimdak:

ENTERTAINMENT

Shindig Live 9pm / Cost: KRW 15,000 + Free Drink Club Freebird 2 Mapogu Seogyodong 408-17 https://www.facebook.com/ events/1640324746224917/

Local food specialties to try

MORE INFO September 25, 2015 - October 4, 2015 Hahoe Village, Maskdance Park & Downtown Andong, Gyeongsangbuk-do www.maskdance.com Mask Dance Theater: KRW 7,000 Hahoe Folk Village: KRW 3,000 (ticket includes a round-trip bus ride from the festival to the village) Bus: Take an intercity bus from Dong Seoul Bus Terminal to Andong Bus Terminal. Buses run every 30 minutes. From there, get bus 0, 0-1 or 1 and get off at the Kyobo Life Insurance bus stop. Or catch a taxi to Maskdance Park (costs more than KRW 10,000). The journey from Seoul takes a total of about 4 hours.

Train: Take a train from Cheongnyangni Station to Andong Station.

Runs 8 times a day at 6:40am, 8:25am, 10:40am, 1:05pm, 3:10pm, 5:10pm, 7:07pm, and 9:13pm. The journey takes 3 hours and 40 minutes.

FRI

Story by Rob Shelley Photos courtesy of Affordable Art Fair

Affordable

ART FAIR 1

Aimed at the art novice, the first ever Affordable Art Fair brings to the capital art that won’t break the bank.

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

ENTERTAINMENT

Stops In Seoul

3

5

2

44 www.groovekorea.com September 2015

4

1. Manifold Editions, Damien Hirst, It’s A Beautiful Day, Polymer gravure block print 2. Contempop Expression Gallery Klaus Leidorf Remember Summertime 2014 photography 3. Artered Gallery-Niemand-Photocomposition-The Diary of a Band 4. Sol Art Gallery-Light Reading-Acrylic On Board 5. Envie d’Art, Kwang-Bum Jang, Goute III, Acrylic on canvas, sanding, 2014

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18

Music

Used Cassettes, Elizabeth Town, Nimbus, 891 9pm / Cost: KRW 15,000 Club Lilac, Mapo-gu Seogyo-dong 402-3

Music

Final Straw (Baekma’s last show) with Shelbyville, Les Sales, DTSQ 9pm / Cost: KRW 5,000 Club Freebird 2 Mapogu Seogyodong 408-17

Event

Alleycon from 9am / Cost: KRW 20,000- KRW 35,000 Gwangju Design Center, 1110-7 Oryong-dong, Buk-gu, Gwangju www.alleycon.com TUE

SEP

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30

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FEstival

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1-10

Zandari Festa 2015 Cost: KRW 25,000 in advance and KRW 30,000 at the door and two-day tickets (valid October 3 or 4) are KRW 45,000 in advance and KRW 50,000 at the door. Three-day delegate passes cost KRW 100,000. www.zfesta.com

September 2015 www.groovekorea.com 45

2-4

~OcT.18

While They Watched General release. www.whiletheywatched.com

Busan International Film Festival (BIFF) All Day / Cost: Varies between screenings Busan City (Haeundae, Centum City, Nampo-dong areas) www.biff.kr

OCT

25~

Film

Festival

FRI-SUN

SEP

Muse 8pm / Cost: KRW 99,000-KRW 110,000 Seoul Olympic Gymnasium, 424 Olympic-ro, Songpa-gu, Seoul

Seoul International Dance Festival From 2pm Cost: KRW 20,000 – KRW 100,000 Namsangol Hanok Village Guakdang, Seoul Arts Center, Gangdong Arts Center, Seogang University Mary Hall http://www.sidance.org

OCT

~OcT.4

Music

EVENT

THU

19,20

Bon Jovi 8pm / Cost: KRW 99,000 – KRW165,000 Jamsil Sports Complex, 10 Jamsil-dong, Songpa-gu, Seoul

Andong Mask Dance Festival 8pm / Cost: KRW 3,000-KRW 7,000 Hahoe Village, Maskdance Park & Downtown Andong, Gyeongsangbuk-do www.maskdance.com

SEP

SEP

Music

Festival

WED

SAT,SUN

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

MORE INFO The Affordable Art Fair Seoul runs for three days at the Dongdaemun Design Plaza. An Art Breaking Evening Party will take place on Friday, September 12 (KRW 20,000).

DDP (Dongdaemun Design Plaza), 281 Euljiro, Jung-Gu, Seoul September 11-13, 2015 11am-6pm (and late opening until 8pm on Friday, September 12) KRW 10,000 (adults), KRW 8,000 (12-18 year olds), Free (under 12/over 65s) http://affordableartfair.com/seoul/?lang=en Dongdaemun History and Culture Park Station (Lines 2, 4, and 5, exit 1) For the second floor basement entrance to Oullim Square, the Design Market, the Design Lab, and the Museum.

Dongdaemun History and Culture Park Station (Lines 2, 4, and 5, exit 2) For entrance to the first floor of the Design Lab and the Dongdaemun History and Culture Park (near the Gallery and basement parking lot)

SEP

ENTERTAINMENT

oming to Seoul this September for one weekend only, the Affordable Art Fair (AAF) is a global festival that spreads the idea that art is for everybody. The fair’s website quotes artist William Morris, “I do not want art for a few any more than I want education for a few, or freedom for a few,” which perfectly captures that artistic spirit.

T he Affordable Art Fair promises to be an out standing event designed to bring art out of the st uffy foyers of the rich and famous and make pieces accessible for everyone. This novel idea was started by Will Ramsay, who opened Will’s Art Warehouse in southwest London in 1996. The art gallery focused on new and unestablished artists who sold their work at affordable prices. It was a success, and three years later, Will hosted 10,000 guests at the first Affordable Art Fair in London. The appeal of Will’s idea is that it makes buying art simple, affordable, and user-friendly. As the founder says himself, “Whether you’re seven or seventy, know nothing about art or know more about art than what’s good for you, it doesn’t matter.

It’s a great day out, so come along!”

Like many of the finer things in society, art seems to belong to the realm of the rich or the cultured few. Yet, art is everywhere we turn: buildings, café décor, superhero films, coffee mugs, and even the design of our laptops. Any decision in style is a judgment in art. We encounter art all the time. So what’s all the fuss about?

Anyone can give their opinion on which smart phone looks the sleekest or whether the latest Taylor Swift single is a masterpiece or a misstep. But ask someone about an abstract or impressionistic painting and they clam up. People think they need to say something intelligent or insightful about fine art. You don’t need to be a music historian to comment on Taylor Swift, so why feel the need to be an expert before you can comment on art?

That’s the attitude the Affordable Art Fair wants to erase. It is not an exhibit just for experts - it’s for everybody. It’s a place where you don’t have to feel intimidated or pressured. You don’t even have to buy any art. The AAF insists, “There will be fun, free, creative and informative activities for everyone to take part in – from workshops and talks, to tours of the fair.” The AAF is also a social event where visitors can chill at the café or bar with friends and mingle with the showcased artists.

If you are looking for something to buy, you don’t need to be a curator. Individual art works generally start under KRW 100,000, while more expensive pieces may be available on payment plans. If in doubt, the gallery owners are there to help you. The AAF recommends that people take a look around and follow their instincts about any art that appeals to them. You’re probably not investing in art, so don’t worry about its value to anyone but yourself. Also, ask questions. Perhaps you’ll get a chance to talk to the artist, or at least the gallery owner. Learning more about the piece can help you connect with it.

Now with the AAF showing in cities like Seoul, New York, Hong Kong, Amsterdam, and Toronto, it has sold over $367 million in art to over 1.6 million happy customers. The showing in Seoul will be the very first art show of its kind in South Korea’s history. Hosted at the beautiful Dongdaemun Design Plaza, itself a piece of art, the event promises to be fun for everyone: children, art neophytes, cheap-skates, and serious art collectors.

Buy a piece, talk with some art lovers, or simply sip some red wine while silently taking in the colors and shapes of art that you could never dream of putting into words – but could be putting up on your walls.

FRI

The Throne Release date: September

46 www.groovekorea.com September 2015

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

ENTERTAINMENT

The

Directed by: Lee Joon-ik

K-Film Story by Simon McEnteggart Photos courtesy of Hancinema

Fall FALL Season

As fall sweeps in, here are a few tasty selections from the Korean movie world to keep you entertained this Chuseok.

S

eptember is always an interesting month for the Korean cinema industry. Due to the Chuseok (Thanksgiving) holiday, films typically target family audiences as they vie for the greatest market share to emerge as the dominant cinematic force.

Last year saw gambling flick Tazza 2, melodrama My Brilliant Life, and summer tentpoles The Admiral and The Pirates battle for supremacy.

This year, Chuseok is a much more muted affair, with only one major release alongside some mid-level counter-programming and a host of independent offerings.

Starring: Song Kang-ho, Yoo Ah-in, Moon Geun-young, Kim Hae-sook Distributed by: Showbox

Right Now, Wrong Then Release date: September

Directed by: Hong Sang-soo

Starring: Kim Min-hee, Jung Jae-young, Yoo Jun-sang, Ko Ah-song, Yoon Yeo-jeong Distributed by: Finecut

Sunshine Release date: September

Directed by: Park Jin-soon

Starring: Dana, Kang Eun-tak, Lee Mi-so

Distributed by: Mirovision

Song Kang-ho will take on the role of King Yeongjo, while popular young actor Yoo Ah-in has been cast as Prince Sado. The story is one of the most widely known historical tales in contemporary Korea, yet according to director Lee Joon-ik, The Throne will focus primarily on the relationships between the characters to unveil a new perspective on the events leading to the Prince’s tragic demise.

Director Lee is no stranger to period dramas, having helmed box office smash The King and the Clown in 2005, while his previous film Hope earned a Best Director nomination at the Blue Dragon and Grand Bell Awards last year.

Did you know?: The shocking story of King Yeongjo and Crown Prince Sado has been the subject of a great many Korean books, plays, TV dramas, and films - including last year’s The Fatal Encounter, which starred Hyun Bin as King Jeongjo, Prince Sado’s son.

September 2015 www.groovekorea.com 47

Sunshine is notable for its quirky and whimsical Sunshine made its world premiere at the 19th take on the romantic-drama genre, tinged with Bucheon Fantastic Film Festival last month a political dimension due to issues involving in the Vision Express program, a category North Korean refugees. Visually, the film is also dedicated to showcasing new voices in genre a treat as much of the filming took place on the filmmaking. incredibly scenic Jeju Island.

The film follows North Korean defector Sul-ji, Director Park Jin-soon was educated in Tokyo a propaganda artist for the Dear Leader before and has been responsible for a number of her escape across the border into the South. documentary and music productions prior to Now residing in Seoul, she makes a humble Sunshine, including his second feature film living delivering flowers and messages for Beethoven following last year’s See. amorous customers, sharing an apartment with fellow escapee Soon-yeong. However Sul-ji’s Did you know? Lead actress Dana is also passion for art never died, and she continues a famous and award-winning K-pop star, who to draw and paint charming images on store was initially heralded as “the next BoA” upon walls for local residents. Her talent is such that her debut. Since then she has gone on to documentary producer Sin-woong, desperate for join girl group The Grace and sub-group The a new hit project, pursues Sul-ji to be his latest Grace - Dana and Sunday, as well as starring in subject, despite her reluctance. Yet, after much a number of musicals, TV dramas/shows, and encouragement, Sul-ji finally agrees but on one films. condition - her identity must be kept secret.

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

Jun-sang, and Gi Joo-bong.

Celebrated auteur Hong Sang-soo returns Director Hong is renowned for his sincerity in with his latest project Right Now, Wrong Then, depicting human relationships, taking seemingly following a staggeringly impressive run of films everyday situations and exploring them from that have all been highly successful on the multiple angles with slight variations. His strong international festival circuit. female protagonists and intelligent yet bumbling Right Now, Wrong Then follows film director male characters are a refreshing change from Chun-su, who arrives in Suwon earlier than expected. As he wanders around the city seeking the gendered tropes so often witnessed in contemporary cinema. something to do until his next appointment, Chun-su encounters beautiful artist Hee-jung Did you know? Director Hong Sang-soo and the duo strike up a relationship as they is one of the most critically acclaimed and view paintings and visit cafes and restaurants highly regarded Korean directors in the history together. Yet their attitude towards each other of K-cinema. Yet despite his films consistently changes when certain revelations aspects are screening at Cannes, Berlin, and Venice (among revealed. many other film festivals), and with numerous The film stars Jun Jae-young - who previously international accolades to his name, Hong has collaborated with the director on Our Sunhi bizarrely often struggled to achieve the same - and Kim Min-hee as the central couple, level of recognition in his native country. alongside regular stalwarts Yoon Yeo-jeong, Yoo

ENTERTAINMENT

Period drama The Throne is undoubtedly the biggest commercial release of the month. The film features the return of wildly successful actor Song Kang-ho after a string of hits including Snowpiercer, The Face Reader, and The Attorney, and seems likely to dominate the box office.

The Throne is set in the Joseon Dynasty during the reign of King Yeongjo, a popular and deeply Confucian ruler who spent much of his time attempting to rebuild the economy following years of war and unrest both within and outside the palace. Yet during this time of recovery, the King’s heir, Crown Prince Sado - allegedly suffering from a psychological illness according to historical tomes - committed a series of shocking crimes. The King, unable to kill the Prince directly, ordered Sado to be sealed within a rice chest on a hot summer’s day, where he died eight days later.

Story by Simon McEnteggart / Photos courtesy of BIFF

48 www.groovekorea.com September 2015

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

ENTERTAINMENT

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BIFF’s Retrospective Insight Into Korean Cinema:

Hidden Masterpieces’

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A Bloodthirsty Killer (dir. Lee Yong-min, 1965)

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The Body Confession (dir. Jo Keung-ha, 1964)

To coincide with the 20th anniversary of the Busan International Film Festival, the Hidden Masterpieces retrospective has been revealed

O

ne of the largest and most significant film events in Asia, the Busan International Film Festival (BIFF) celebrates its 20th anniversary this year from October 1-10, 2015.

The cinematic extravaganza looks set to be the biggest instalment in the festival’s history, with an exciting and memorable program planned. While organisers have yet to announce the full line-up of films to be screened, BIFF has disclosed details of one interesting program for all film enthusiasts – Korean Cinema Retrospective: Hidden Masterpieces of the 1960s.

The program showcases eight films that have been selected to represent the decade, which is considered a period of burgeoning modernisation in Korean cinematic history. A staggering number of films were produced throughout the era - averaging around 200 a year - as companies strived to create a quantifiable industry and cinematic heritage, with many directors helming multiple projects each year. As the emphasis was placed on speedy production, artistic vision was often limited and, due to the loss of so many prints in during the war, only a select group of auteurs have been studied and celebrated.

The retrospective program seeks to change that, however, with the chosen films showcasing some of the lesser known yet highly sophisticated works to emerge from the 1960s. One of these films, Trees Stand on Slope, was one of the 450 that had previously been considered lost titles and that were donated earlier this year to the Korean Film Archive; it will be screened for the first time following its restoration.

The films to be screened for Korean Cinema Retrospective: Hidden Masterpieces of the 1960s are as follows:

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This early horror uses the genre to great effect by mixing spirituality and the social anxiety of the time. When a content wife is murdered by those jealous of her happiness, her soul returns from beyond to exact bloody vengeance on those who wronged her.

Masterpiece credentials Combines Eastern and Western ghost stories and folklore while exploring the class inequality of the era.

Working as a madam in a hostess bar in Busan, a mother uses any and all means possible to support her three daughters who are all attending university. Desperate for the girls to achieve their dreams and a bright future, the madam makes all manner of sacrifices yet conceals from them the truth of her occupation. However as time passes the four women fall victim to many of the societal issues of the time, yet they refuse to give up.

Masterpiece credentials While last year’s box office hit Ode to My Father relayed the problems of the era from a male perspective, The Body Confession reflects the struggles facing women and the inequality of the time.

The Cash is Mine (dir. Lee Sang-eon, 1965)

This gangster noir depicts a criminal who feels extreme guilt for murdering an old man, and begins taking care of the victim’s daughter as recompense. The killer does whatever he can to protect his new charge, yet when the police come looking for him, the situation spirals out of control.

Masterpiece credentials One of the earliest attempts at the gangster genre, The Cash is Mine is uniquely Korean for infusing issues of jeong with the criminal underworld of the period.

The Door of the Body

(dir. Lee Bong-rae, 1965)

Country girl Eun-sook arrives in Seoul with dreams of opening her own beauty parlour, working as a prostitute and masseuse while investing her money in stocks in order to do so. However when her lover cheats Eun-sook out of all her earnings, she must find another path.

Masterpiece credentials Director Lee typically focused on stories of salarymen, yet The Door of the Body displayed the tenacity and growing social power of women, and is quite a feminist piece considering the era.

The DMZ (dir. Park Sang-ho, 1965)

Considered lost until 2005, The DMZ was filmed on location in the area at a time when the region was still highly volatile. Set in 1953, when constant attacks by the North and the South resulted in the DMZ being pushed back and forth across the 38th parallel, the film follows two children who become lost due to the conflict and wander around the DMZ surviving on whatever they can find. The film examines their experiences as lost innocents in a dangerous land.

Masterpiece credentials The DMZ received the Best Tragedy Award at the 13th Asia Film Festival for its depiction of the harsh realities of war.

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This crime thriller follows two detectives as they attempt to solve the mysterious death of a young photographer. Examining the clues leads the duo to a novelist, who tells them of a story the deceased wrote called “The General’s Mustache,” which may have a bearing on the case.

Masterpiece credentials The film includes an animated section, which was a rarity in the era, and displays the technological strides being made in the industry at the time.

Trees Stand on Slope (dir. Choi Ha-won, 1968)

Based on Hwang Sun-won’s novel, this drama depicts a man’s descent into madness following his role in the death of his best friend.

When the deceased’s girlfriend arrives and begins asking questions, the story takes a sad and shocking turn.

Masterpiece credentials Considered a lost masterpiece, the film was donated by a businessman who operated a traveling film business during the era, who stored the film in a warehouse for safekeeping until its discovery.

When Night Falls at Myeongdong (dir. Lee Hyung-pyo, 1964)

Working the nightclubs in Myeongdong is tough for the young women employed there as they try to retain their dignity while hoping a rich man will save them from their existence. One such woman, an incredible beauty, befriends a bank manager and may have found a way to escape her lifestyle.

Masterpiece credentials The roles occupied by women in Seoul during the 1960s are explored throughout the film from a female perspective, providing keen insight into the extremely tough issues they faced.

MORE INFO Korean Film Archive - www.koreafilm.org October 1-10, 2015 Screening times vary. Check the website for details.

Busan City (Haeundae, Centum City, Nampo-dong areas) Shuttle buses transport visitors between locations.

Ticket prices vary per screening. www.biff.kr/structure/eng/default.asp

Watch A North Korean documentary from the future, While They Watched truly catches the imagination.

Story by Tenzing Norgey / Photos by Jake J. Smith

W

hile They Watched (방관자) is a 90-minute feature documentary about North Korea set in the future, that looks back at the collapse of the Kim dictatorship.

Using a mix of interviews, archival material, and observational footage, While They Watched draws on the power of hindsight. After hearing the tragic back-stories of defectors who have been firsthand witnesses to the brutality of the regime, the film questions the morality of the current inaction by regional and global powers with regards to the North Korean dictatorship.

Expat director Jake J. Smith compiles a collection of testimonies from former North Korean gulag soldiers and propaganda agents, ex-leaders of the “underground railroad” through China, professors of Korean history, hardened activists, NGO leaders, and defectors who have all risked their lives to tell their stories - hoping to free the minds of North Koreans.

The testimonies are given in the past tense from the context of an imaginary future after the collapse of the regime. This gives the interviews a unique quality, allowing contributors some distance and clarity to better reveal key local and international players in the unfolding disaster, and the nations, institutions, and individuals have tried in this brave attempt to change the fate of the country.

The film carefully highlights the activities of certain defectors and activists, revealing many underground activities largely unknown to the outside world. Their stories tell of the direct action used to impact the regime, and the threats they face, which paint a frightening picture of current life in North Korea.

While they Watched has just completed its post-production phase with UK-based production companies Square Eyed Pictures (SQEP) and Sliced Pictures. The film is expected to be released in October and with all eyes on this moving documentary, it’s almost time for everybody to watch.

For more information about where to see the film, check www.whiletheywatched.com

September 2015 www.groovekorea.com 49

The 1960s were a turbulent time for Korea as the nation strived to develop after the war; the films selected for the Korean Cinema Retrospective: Hidden Masterpieces of the 1960s represent the array of economic, social, and gender issues affecting people during this era.

This is a great opportunity to witness the great strides, as well as the growing pains, the peninsula experienced on the path to becoming the country it is today.

To celebrate BIFF’s 20th anniversary, a preview of the full line-up of films to be screened and events taking place will be in the next edition of Groove Korea.

It’s Time To

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

7

The General’s Mustache (dir. Lee Seong-gu, 1968)

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ENTERTAINMENT

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ENTERTAINMENT Edited by chance dorland (chancedorland@gmail.com)

50 www.groovekorea.com September 2015

Zandari Festa Returns To Hongdae More bands than you could possibly see, though you’re encouraged to try

Story by Nora Mackenzie Photos by Kyung Jin Yoo, Mark Hughes, ASIArecords, Tai Kimm Jungles!!!, and Lolita No. 18

T

he fourth edition of Zandari Festa – Korea’s largest annual music showcase festival – is coming to Hongdae October 2-4 with more than 200 Korean, expat, and overseas touring acts performing all styles of music on two outdoor stages and in 20 some odd live clubs scattered across Seoul’s indie music district.

Fest-goers are issued wristbands that allow them to hop between all of the event’s different venues. With no shortage of acclaimed acts SXSW, Canada’s CMW, Russia’s V-Rox, and present, festival CEO and co-founder Yoon- Focus Wales and Liverpool Sound City in the Young Kong (better known in music circles by UK. Currently gigging in support of their Sun his nickname Dalse) hopes attendees will take Power full-length that was issued in July – and a few gambles over the course of the weekend. was lauded by the website koreanindie.com as “My advice is to not just check out the groups “one of the best albums of the year” – October you already know,” he shares. “Instead watch will mark their fourth straight appearance at at least a few bands you’re completely unfa- Zandari Festa. And you can likely bank on the miliar with. I’m confident everyone who does band continuing to return for as long as the this will discover some new favorites during event will have them.

“We’ve been together with Zandari Festa from Zandari Festa.”

Seoul rock group New Blue Death are excited the very start,” bassist Byung-hak Eem proudly states. “We like that when it comes to music, to make their Zandari Festa debut this year.

“We really dig the setup and vibe of the festi- Zandari values substance over appearance. We val,” says guitarist and vocalist Adam Brennan. also love that it takes place in Hongdae. For “It seems akin to festivals like Sled Island in most Korean indie musicians, that’s our neighCalgary and the early days of SXSW in Austin. borhood. So we feel like hosts all weekend long It’s nice that it’s more than a traditional festival and it feels like all of us make this festival toshow in that the venues are varied and spread gether!”

Monoban’s unique makeup of guitar, cello, across a whole neighborhood rather than a giand cajon helped the local folk act stand out at ant field.”

Korean psychedelic pop/soul quartet Goo- last year’s Zandari Festa, and the trio are very nam have played at a number of show- happy to be a part of this year’s festivities as case-style festivals around the globe including well. Cello player George Durham says that the

New Blue Death

Jon Byrne band will preview new material during their showcase slot.

“At Zandari Festa 2014, we played at a venue that was new to us for a really enthusiastic audience,” offers Durham. “It was great to be part of a festival which we really want to help keep growing. Seoul has tons of small clubs, so the Zandari concept fits perfectly here. And it draws attention to these small clubs and the indie bands that play them.”

When asked to recommend other groups people should catch at Zandari Festa 2015, New Blue Death’s Brennan suggests Ludistelo, DTSQ, Love X Stereo, and Magna Fall while Monoban’s Durham adds Dead Buttons, Nice Legs, and Emon to the list before saying, “Also definitely go check out any visiting acts from outside of Korea – they came a long way to be here!”

Since its 2012 inception, Zandari Festa has strived to feature more and more international talent every year. To date, the fest has seen artists traveling from a dozen plus countries to perform – and 2015’s edition will see more

“My advice is to not just check out the groups you already know. Instead watch at least a few bands you’re completely unfamiliar with. I’m confident everyone who does this will discover some new favorites during Zandari Festa.”

Goonam

fe st i va l C EO a n d co - fo u n d e r Yoon-Young Kong ENTERTAINMENT

Monoban

Edited by chance dorland (chancedorland@gmail.com)

September 2015 www.groovekorea.com 51

everyone everywhere happy,” says drummer Jasmine. “It doesn’t matter what language we speak, music is universal. We’re really excited about seeing as many bands as possible during Zandari Festa and eating lots of Korean food!”

Zandari Festa will be British folk singer Jon Byrne’s first Seoul visit, too. Festival organizers came across him at Liverpool Sound City in May. Blown away by his set, they invited him to Zandari Festa on the spot.

“I hadn’t heard of the festival prior to that, but have heard a lot about it since,” he says. “You Jungles!!! can see it is really growing with popularity in the UK. The festival looks amazing and I’m looking forward to learning more about Korean music while I’m there. I have always wanted “I’m so excited I can’t sleep,” she says. “The to visit Korea, and I feel truly blessed to have great bands flying to Seoul, which is something last time we performed in Korea, a big speaker been given this opportunity.” that Brennan likes.

And what can those attending Zandari Festa “Zandari Festa gives international bands a feel fell into the crowd, but no one was injured. I for what the independent underground music learned from that experience that Korean au- expect from Byrne?

“I have a massive amount of passion for what scene is like in Korea,” he says. “It also gives diences are very strong! Our show this time is fans of international bands a chance to see going to be the biggest punk party you’ve ever I do, and I’m told by people who have watched me that it really comes across in my perforthem in a more intimate setting. There is more experienced. Don’t miss Lolita No. 18!”

Also making the flight from Japan are punk-y mances,” he says. “I have a stomp box which I opportunity for shared cultural experiences garage rockers Jungles!!!, who will be playing made myself so there is a nice steady beat gothan at some of the big fests.”

Amongst the overseas acts scheduled to per- here for the first time at Zandari Festa 2015. ing throughout the fast-moving numbers along form is long-running Japanese punk band Loli- Previously known as Red Bacteria Vacuum, with guitar and harmonica. I also play piano to ta No.18. Formed back in 1989, the group’s 1998 the group has done a few US tours – including mellow things out creating what I believe to be Fubo Love NY album was produced by punk a stint opening for chart-topping supergroup A different lights and shades of emotion. I work icon Joey Ramone. Lolita No. 18 previously Perfect Circle – and gigged at SXSW in the past. very hard to make my one-man show as enter“From playing at showcase festivals like taining and as spiritually enriching as possible.” toured Korea in 2001 and frontwoman Masayo Zandari Festa 2015 takes place from October SXSW, we’ve learned that our music can make Ishizaka is eager to return.

2 - 4 at various live music venues in Hongdae.

One-day tickets (valid October 3 or 4) cost “We like that when it comes to music, Zandari KRW 25,000 in advance and KRW 30,000 at values substance over appearance. We also love the door and two-day tickets (valid October 3 that it takes place in Hongdae. For most Korean or 4) are KRW 45,000 in advance and KRW 50,000 at the door. Three-day delegate passes indie musicians, that’s our neighborhood.” cost KRW 100,000. For more information, visit http://www.zfesta.com/ Go o na m bassi st Byung - h a k Ee m

Lolita No. 18

Story by Myra Pearson / photos by Douglas Vautour ENTERTAINMENT Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

Riding with Table People Ride With Me is the veteran Hongdae band’s

first full-length album release

Table People rocking out at their album release, June 19 at DGBD in Hongdae

52 www.groovekorea.com September 2015

Table People are capable people.

Not table sheeple.

And like a table, they’re a little bit square, with four legs to stand on, generally sturdy and solid.

No, really solid. Table People are mahogany. They’re like that thrift store find, handcrafted and polished, that when you see you think, “What are you doing here? You aren’t plywood!” and even though you weren’t looking for it, you decide you can’t pass it up.

In the November of 2012, the band released their debut EP. Since then, they’ve played all over the peninsula and recorded a split EP with the Korean band Les Sales, but Ride With Me is their first full-length album. Before you roll your eyes and say to yourself, “Great, another album review by a groupie who’s just going to tell me why this album is like, the best EVER,” let me put this out there: Ride with Me is not the album for you if you are feeling blue. Not even close.

The album opens up with a cheerful plucking of a major chord that, if looped, would make for a sunny alarm ring, something you could wake up to and manage to feel okay before you’ve had coffee. It then jumps headfirst into an eager rock anthem which is felt through the whole album.

The lyrics are often indiscernible during the verses, and if you try to sing along you’ll probably end up inventing them. But hey, so what? Eric Davis’ vocal melodies are more of an accompaniment to the catchy guitar strains. The way a white wine is supposed to compliment a light summer dish.

And when you pay closer attention to the lyrics, you are pleasantly surprised with lines like, “Just because you don’t have a million dollar nose / Doesn’t mean you’ll never have a feminine sneeze.”

Ride with Me is just the sort of energetic, upbeat album you’d want to blast from an old 90’s Volvo hatchback while driving down a highway on a summer afternoon. I caught up with original Table People guitarists/vocalists Eric Davis and Ethan Waddell and recent addition Myoung Shin to talk about their latest release.

Groove (GK): First of all, congratulations on your new album! Ride with Me is a catchy summer album. It’s not possible to be bummed out when listening to it. What were some of the most enjoyable aspects of working on this album, and what challenges did you encounter along the way?

Eric: Most enjoyable was probably that we ran a successful crowdfunding campaign and were able to avoid going into debt making it.

We seriously owe a big thanks to our friends and family for spotting us the cash to live out our rock n roll fantasy. That took a lot of stress off, so now we can play the shows we want to play instead of worrying about which ones will allow us to pay our bills. Challenges would include finding a new bass player and drummer halfway through the album. But it all worked out because now we’re a happy band and really solid live.

E t han: For me the most enjoyable aspect of working on the album was the recording process itself. We put so much thought into our parts, so to finally hear all the pieces come together, I found, was incredibly rewarding. We recorded the album during two separate time periods. So the first six songs were recorded in the spring of 2015 while the last five were recorded from the summer to the winter of 2014.

For the spring 2015 session, especially, I believe we found the sound that we were looking for.

In that respect, recording the first five songs during the summer-fall of 2014 was a challenge in that we were still discovering what styles worked for us.

Myoung: I am very satisfied with the tone of my bass that our recording engineer Brad was able to record. We’ve also had a lot of challenges, like how to market the album.

Since we put lots of effort into the writing and recording songs, I think we couldn’t put much effort into promotion.

GK: How did Table People meet each other? And how has the band changed over the years?

Eric: We met the way most great songwriting partnerships meet: craigslist. But I was a pretty crappy guitar player and singer back then, which is funny considering I’m just barely passable now. How has TP changed? I’d say we’ve gotten a lot more polished and ornate.

The first EP is pretty primitive and punk. That has its charm but we’ve kept adding members that are more technical and add more wrinkles to each song. Personally I like both sounds. If we ever get to sounding proggy and jockular we try to reign it, try to pretend you only have 2 fingers or your guitar is missing strings.

E t han: I think in terms of artistic taste, Eric and I have a lot of similarities. So when we first met through craigslist, that made a strong impression on me. He sent me some demos, “Different Places” and “Saving Up” (which are on the first EP), both of which have lyrics that I liked a lot--both sad and funny at the same time. So I thought if this dude could work on his singing and guitar playing then we could start a cool band. I think Eric’s come a long way since then, and it definitely reflects in the music. The changes that the band has gone through have also been dependent on the members we’ve had. Up until now, we’ve changed both our bassist and drummer four times, all of our past member have all had an impact on the way the music sounds now and how it’s changed. With Soyoung on drums and Myoung on bass, I think both Eric and I feel way more comfortable developing a style that fits the mood and content of the lyrics. When Soyoung first auditioned, it seemed clear that her natural rhythm would be perfect for Eric’s guitar playing. And Myoung’s bass playing is really melodic and he plays right in the pocket with Soyoung, so it’s given me a lot of space to experiment with guitar/bass interaction. While in the past, we experimented a lot with punk, rock and roll and noise rock, with Ride with Me, I think we realized that poppier stuff suits us better.

Myoung: When I met Ethan and Eric last year, they had lots of rock ‘n’ roll songs

like “Dirty Wedding” or “Chiko.” I really loved listening to these songs, but I was not comfortable with playing those heavy songs because I’m not the kind of bassist who shreds. So I’ve been secretly pushing these guys to write more mellow songs, but it doesn’t seem like this plan works. Anyways, I can definitely say we are developing our style toward somewhere fitter for us.

GK: Can you talk about your creative process? What is your personal favorite song that you’ve written or worked on?

Eric: I’ll usually make a chord progression that I’ve been playing for a while. Then I have a couple sets of verses and choruses sitting around needing music. I’ll see if any of those jive with the progression. If not, then I’ll write new lyrics. Once I get a rough sketch of something I like, I take it to Ethan. He often changes it a lot. Writing vocal melodies is especially hard for me, so Ethan makes a lot of them. Then after we’ve jammed it for a night we’ll bring it to Seoyoung and Myoung at the practice studio. That’s where we arrange it and tinker with it. Personal favorite would probably

“We seriously owe a big thanks to our friends and family for spotting us the cash to live out our rock n roll fantasy.”

54 www.groovekorea.com September 2015

Edited by chance dorland (chancedorland@gmail.com)

ENTERTAINMENT

Eric Davis

be either “Call Me” or “Ride with Me.” It think those are the closest we’ve come to perfecting our sound.

E t han: When Eric brings a song to us, first, I try to find a melody that works. Then often times, we’ll change the chords accordingly.

The process of arrangement entails constant alterations to either the chords or the melody and continues until the two are as close to perfectly balanced as possible. Myoung is really quick with learning and making parts. He’ll also make riffs that I base my own parts on.

Soyoung has perfect pitch, so when something is off, she’ll tell us. I think that the first five songs on Ride with Me are my favorites.

Myoung: Eric mostly writes lyrics with his guitar. Ethan knows how to write good melody, so Eric brings lyrics and chords, and Ethan arranges the song with us. For me, when there’s good chords, good rhythm and good composition, I know right away if I can write good bass phrases or not. I was able to put lots of good bass phrases in our song “Ride with Me.”

GK: Is there a musician that you’re really digging right now, and can you recommend an album and/or a book we should check out that our readers may not be familiar with?

Eric: I just got Apple Music so I’ve been downloading stuff like crazy. A lot of old albums that I miss from college. Kingsbury Manx, Holopaw, Sportsguitar, Love of Laughter. Stuff from 10 years ago. As for current artists, I like Parquet Courts, Say Sue Me. Grey from the Killer Drones turned me on to Through the Sparks. He used to play with them back in Alabama. Also, about a month ago I saw a Korean band called Silica Gel and they were amazing.

I bought the CD at the show and it rules too.

E t han: I’m listening to electronically influenced music these days: Daft Punk, LCD Soundsystem, and Porter Robinson. I’d recommend Baekma’s new album. Its gonna be really good. I could also recommend a Korean acoustic singer named, 셀린셀리셀리느 (SellinSellySelline). His music is dark and kind of haunting. I’ve been meaning to see him live for years, but I still haven’t.

Myoung: I’m listening to Real Estate, Posse, Beach Fossils, Mac Demarco, Wavves, Public Service Broadcasting, Manchester Orchestra, and Beach House these days. I’d like to recommend a Japanese anime though. The anime is called Ping Pong and this anime’s soundtrack has its’ own unique style.

GK: What is your spirit animal?

Eric: Koala Bear drinking a white russian on the 18th green of Pebble Beach at sunset to celebrate selling his robotics start-up to Google.

E t han: A combination of a penguin and a raccoon.

Myoung: I think all the cats are really nice to me. Just to me.

“I’ve been secretly pushing these guys to write more mellow songs, but it doesn’t seem like this plan works.”

Myoung Shin

Check out Table People on Saturday, September 12 at Strange Fruit in Hongdae from 8pm to midnight with Vidulgi Ooyoo, Juck Juck Grunzie, Baekma, and visiting Japanese band Hainu. Tickets are 15,000 won, and for more info on the band’s upcoming shows, visit Facebook.com/TablePeople .

Story by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring / Photos courtesy of ACCESS ENT.

No Drones

Muse return to Seoul w ith seventh offering Drones

a new musical direction and the definition of drones portraying a more brainwashing and loss of empathy metaphor for the new album.

Despite all this musical success spanning two decades that anybody would love to emulate, Muse still enjoy taking their music on to the road.

Labelling their 2004 Glastonbury performance as one of the group’s highlights, Muse have gone on to headline festivals in the UK, the Australian Big Day Out and head to Lollapalooza Berlin on September 13 before arriving in Seoul.

The live stage is a place where Muse thrive, having been the recipients of the BRIT Awards best live act for two times. The live show brings a mixture of vibrant energy, an exciting playlist and influences in Radiohead and Nirvana that come to life on the stage.

Following their successful Seoul show in 2013, Muse are here to wow the crowds in a stunning performance that’s sure to be all heart and no drones.

MORE INFO Muse arrive on the Seoul leg of the Drones World Tour at the Olympic Park Gymnastics Gymnasium on Wednesday, September 30, 2015. Tickets are priced between KRW 99,000 and KRW 132,000.

September 30 at 8pm KRW 99,000-KRW 132,000 Tickets are available from YES24 (www.ticket.yes24.com/ English), Interpark (www.ticket.interpark.com/global), and livenation.kr.

Seoul Olympic Park Gymnastics Gymnasium, 424 Olympic-ro, Songpa-gu, Seoul, South Korea Subway: Olympic Park Station (Line 5, Exit 3) 02-410-1114

September 2015 www.groovekorea.com 55

use return to Seoul for their second headline show at the Olympic Park Gymnastics Gymnasium on September 30.

The Drones World Tour brings a seven album backlog of the British rock bands bass guitar rifts and electronic sounds. Muse lead vocalist, Matthew Bellamy has even been likened to Jeff Buckley in a musical mix that offers classical, melodically and heavier influenced rock tracks.

The three piece, who hail from Devon in the UK are no stranger to the stage with more than twenty years showbiz experience behind them.

Latest studio album, Drones, is the seventh offering which has even seen the trio surpass an impressive 17 million album sales worldwide.

The band formed back in 1994, although all three members played for different groups in the beginning. Back in their college days, the bands original muse was Carnage Mayhem, a brainchild of drummer Dominic Howard whom had already auditioned Matthew Bellamy as lead vocalist before recruiting Christopher Wolstenholme as bass guitarist.

Later that year, under their second name Rocket Baby Dolls, the trio won the local battle of the bands and decided to get serious. After quitting university, their jobs and Devon, The band traveled far and wide to create a fan base, secure a recording deal and a new name - Muse.

After the release of two EPs, first album Showbiz cemented their musical stature, with hits Unintended and Muscle Museum the first in a line of hits. Third album Absolution featured the band’s first top ten hit Time Is Running Out and fourth offerings The Resistance hugely popular Uprising.

The band’s career has also spurned a number of soundtracks, including the highly acclaimed re-worked version of Anthony Newly and Leslie Bricusse’s Feeling Good which accompanied the infamous Virgin Atlantic TV adverts in the early noughties. A decade later, Exogenesis: Part 1 was used in the Guy Ritchie directed, Jude Law advert for Dior Homme which also followed the bands success of having one of their songs featured on each of the three Twilight trilogy soundtracks.

Latest album Drones was released in June this year and has already reached the top of the charts in the UK, US and Australia. Singles Psycho and Mercy have already caused quite a stir with the band playing with

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

M

and

ENTERTAINMENT

All Heart

Luxury

A

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

T R A V E L

s Chuseok Thanksgiving approaches this September 26-29, there are a few options on offer for those residing in Korea.

Whether you have relatives over the peninsula, are planning a weekend away with friends or simply looking forward to a retreat on your own, Seoul offers plentiful options with a touch of luxury this holiday. Here, The Ritz-Carlton Seoul, JW Marriott Seoul, the Grand Intercontinental Seoul Parnas, Grand Hyatt Seoul and Conrad Seoul share a few luxurious yet affordable options for the holiday period.

Conrad Seoul Thanksgiving Treat Chuseok gift sets Cost KRW 120,000 - 250,000 Website www.conradseoul.co.kr Tel 02-6137-7000

The Conrad Seoul has carefully selected a customised range of Chuseok gift sets, fit for any family gathering. A total of eight different premium gift sets have been tailored for every member of the family to offer thanks in style. The signature Hot Chocolate gift set is one for the kids – or any member of the family - to enjoy in the comfort of their own home. Complete with a glass and wooden tray, four delectable servings of the richest - and luxurious - French brand Valrhona Chocolate are included for the ultimate hot drink experience. For a picnic to remember, the gourmet Taste Of Abruzzo set includes wine, pasta, olive oil and even a champagne offering with cheese, salami and jam for a more exquisite hamper of goodies. If sipping a Sauvignon is more your cup of tea, then the Old-New World Wine Set offers a 2010 Chianti and 2012 Australian Shiraz to accompany any family meal. For an extra special celebration, the French Premium Champagne & Wine Set provides two sparkling French offerings to complete celebrations in style.

The Ritz-Carlton, Seoul Thanksgiving Treat Balcony Delights Cost KRW 300,000 - 352,000 (exclusive taxes and service charge) Website www.ritzcarlton.com Tel 02-3451-8114

56 www.groovekorea.com September 2015

Story by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring Photos courtesy of The Ritz-Carlton Seoul, Conrad Seoul, JW Marriott Seoul and Grand Intercontinental Seoul Parnas, Grand Hyatt Seoul

A treat for those dating, the married couple or families, balcony delights brings the party to Chuseok without the need for any preparation or washing up. The Ritz-Carlton, Seoul are combining accommodation and their party expertise to provide a package with a difference. Enjoy a small-scale party in one of the hotel’s private balcony rooms as between three to six people can enjoy accommodation for one night, a finger food menu and a house bottle of wine in the comfort of their own room. In this intimate yet social gathering, enjoy a night with close family members or a small group of friends and take the stress out of making Thanksgiving food or finding a restaurant that will be open over the holiday period. To say an extra little thanks, thanks, the Balcony Delights package also comes with an extra 25% discount, courtesy of the Chuseok holiday. Also available for small groups of friends, enjoy a refined holiday period at the The Ritz-Carlton, Seoul.

Grand Hyatt Seoul Thanksgiving Treat Never Ending Summer Package Cost KRW 222,000 - 266,000 Website www.seoul.grand.hyatt.kr Tel 02-797-1234

For couples, enjoy the more intimate surroundings at the Grand Hyatt Seoul with their special overnight deal. Escape the heat – and the crowds - and treat you and a loved one to a romantic weekend away during the holiday period. For the month of September only, enjoy a one night stay in a Grand Room, which includes access to the indoor and outdoor swimming pools and 24-hour gym - and be spoilt with free Wi-Fi, a chicken and beer set and a gift beach towel

by Grand Hyatt Seoul. Choose to have a workout, do a few laps of the Olympic-sized pool or simply lounge on the sunbed for the afternoon. With sublime landscaped grounds amidst a backdrop of the capital, a mini-break without even leaving the city awaits.

Grand Intercontinental Seoul Parnas Thanksgiving Treat Grand Happy Hour (6.30pm-9pm; Live Music 7.30pm-11.10pm)

Cost KRW 53,000 (10% service charge and 10% VAT inclusive) Website www.grandicparnas.com Tel 02-559-7603

Although not available on weekends and national holidays, head to Lobby Lounge & Bar situated in the lobby of the Grand Intercontinental Seoul Parnas for a delightful evening. Running indefinitely throughout the Fall season, this is a great option for those just wanting to spend some time with friends. The hotel grounds, which is located in the newly refurbished COEX Shopping Center in Gangnam, have a plethora of different deals to choose from. However, during September, the Grand Happy Hour stands out as a definite option to give a group of friends. From 6pm, enjoy two and a half hours of tranquil relaxation with a pre-paid all-you-caneat-and-drink buffet. Enjoy one of the many premium wines and beers on offer and sample the delights of the kitchen with a range of cheese, deli meats and patisserie pastries. A live jazz band will accompany the evening from 7.30pm and play on until past 11pm to ensure a pleasant evening all round. The Happy Hour is a great way to ease into the long weekend so make a reservation now.

JW Marriott Seoul Thanksgiving Treat My Body Bible Package Cost KRW 302,000 (plus tax plus service charge) Website www.marriott.co.kr Tel 02-6282-6282

Summer is out and you now find that you somehow have been given a long-weekend, courtesy of Chuseok. Consider the Body Bible package, as offered by the JW Marriott Seoul this holiday season. Putting the R&R into relaxation and revitalization, enjoy a one-to-one personal training session - and even a glass of freshly squeezed orange juice to refresh yourself. The offer includes one night accommodation in a superior room at the JW Marriott Seoul, a 50-minute training session at the Marquis Thermal Spa and Fitness Club and a choice of one personal lesson from Pilates, squash or golf. Body Bible guests will also have full access to the swimming pool complex and fitness club for the duration of their stay. Take the day to revitalise and the evening to relax with this perfect antidote to post-summer stress and fatigue.

A Hop, A Skip

(and plane ride)

Across The Water

There’s more to Japan’s second largest city than just a visa run

S

Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)

TRA V E L

Story by Liam Ring / Photos by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring

ituated strategically between the historical capitals of Kyoto and Nara, Osaka is a fantastic location to set up your Kansai adventure. However, there is a lot more to this city than just the trains that go out of it.

A busy business center and shopping mecca during the day, the night-time sees the Kansai region’s capital clothe itself in garb of the brightest neon lights, with both locals and visitors heading out to party in one of the most dynamic cities in Asia. Osakans are rightly famous for their gregariousness compared to other Japanese, and this city has a personality in keeping with the millions that inhabit it.

58 www.groovekorea.com September 2015

The Sights Architecturally more functional than attractive, the city nevertheless boasts plenty for a camera-happy tourist to enjoy. For many travelers, the famous ‘Glico Man’ neon billboard on the Dotonbori is a quintessential image of the city, and the bridge below is regularly jammed with people looking up at and snapping the famous sign.

Head to Umeda and the famous Floating Garden Observatory atop the two-towered Umeda Sky Building awaits for a panoramic view of the city. It costs JPY800 (KRW8,000) to access the garden where couples have taken to fastening locks to the safety bars as a symbol of their love (the garden is a regular St. Valentine’s Day spot), and the basement of the building offers Showa-era style restaurants where you can enjoy traditional Japanese culinary fare. Over the river and the HEP Five shopping complex’s ferris wheel also offers spectacular views of Osaka’s concrete jungle – especially at night – costing JPY500 (KRW5,000) with last boarding at 10.45pm.

For those more historically minded, Osaka Castle, one of the most famous landmarks in Japan, can be accessed from Osakajokoen train station on the Osaka Loop Line. A ten minute walk from the station brings a walking adventure around a castle that has been restored numerous times since first being built at the end of the sixteenth century.

The park in which it is situated covers two square kilometres and is an extremely popular spot for Cherry Blossom parties in April or regular escapes from city life at the weekends for locals.

The Culinary delights Not many foodies will be able to leave the city before trying the city’s famous octopus dumplings (tako-yaki). Made in a special ball-shaped pan to mould the egg and flour-based batter around the octopus, the popular street food is then smothered in special takoyaki sauce and mayonnaise for a delicious and impromptu snack. The most famous spot for some octopus balls is behind Abenobashi station where family-run kiosk Yamachan regularly has queues of hungry office workers and shoppers awaiting their take-out. Other delicious treats include Japanese pancake (okonomiyaki) which is fried on a hot plate in front of the customer and is made with cabbage, a flour-based batter, and a choice of seafood or meat. Teppanyaki and Udon are also other examples of standard Osaka fare as is, of course, sushi itself. Although Dontonbori is the best strip to find a cosmopolitan offering of cuisine both Japanese and international, for those tiring of the sights and sounds of the area, head to neighboring Dobutsuenmae. District Shinsekai, may be labelled by the Lonely Planet as one of the seedier areas in Osaka, but it is also famous for a range of restaurants offering traditional eats at local prices for anyone seeking some traditional Osakan delicacies to savor.

The Entertainment

The Festivals

Only a three minute-walk across the impressive shopping street of the central Midosuji avenue (which runs parallel to the Dotonbori bridge) is the famous Amerika-mura entertainment district. Wander the streets where trendy bars stand shoulder to shoulder with music venues, clubs, and restaurants, but more famously, check out the stalls for some boutique shopping. The kids of Osaka tend to visit the area to find their unique fashion, which although not quite Harajuku, does entertain to help youngsters find their inner goth, kitsch or anything in-between.

Alongside the evening’s exploration, take a well-earned Asahi break at Balabushka which is popular with the locals for its free pool and darts facilities and numerous screens showing weekend sports. Down the road, Rock Rock is regularly frequented by artists performing in the city, attracting well-known acts from adjacent music venues Osaka Dome, Osaka Festival Hall and Zepp Namba. Japan’s second biggest city has a thriving restaurant, bar and club culture, and with only a few of the main spots mentioned, undoubtedly, entertainment is never a problem in this 24-hour city.

Mid-September sees the famous Kishiwada Danjiri Matsuri when volunteers pull (and race) four ton floats through the city of Kishiwada.

Created over three hundred years ago as a way to pray for a successful harvest, the festival has become famous for its garish traditional costumes, voluminous shouting, high speed races and occasional collisions.

Other similar festivals include the Shitennoji Wasso Festival in early November which takes place at Japan’s oldest Buddhist shrine in the south of the city. Also of note at the end of the year is the New Year’s Eve bell-ringing at Todaiji shrine in neighboring Nara, where battling the cold will give you the chance to see a shrine illuminated in lanterns with the doors opened to allow watchers to view the face of the giant Buddha from outside the building – one of only two times of the year that this is possible.

The Sports

Bar Zerro near Dotonbori offers special offers on drinks, excitable bar staff and a fantastic atmosphere on Friday to Sunday nights. Get there early to grab a seat at the bar and an evening not to be missed.

Address: 542-0085 Osaka Prefecture, Osaka, Chuo Ward, Shinsaibashisuji, 2 Chome−3−2,

Craft Beer House Molto is situated on the 31st floor of the Hankyu Grand Building in Umeda and offers a fantastic view of the city to go along with your bites and beverage. Check out the all you can drink (nomihodai deals) for the committed beer drinker.

Address: 8-47 Kakudacho, Kita Ward, Osaka, Osaka Prefecture 5300017, Japan

Three To Try (Food) Yamachan outside Abeno Station is rightly famous for its tako-yaki.

Get in a queue, make your choice and perhaps even buy a drink by the nearby convenience store before enjoying some real Osaka street food.

Careful, it take a few minutes to cool down.

Directions: From Abenobashi station, head for the Hoop shopping center exit and turn left El Panchos is an expatriate mainstay of Osaka, with afternoon Marguerita Happy Hours alongside some of the best Mexican food you’ll eat outside Mexico. The service can be a little slow at times but the food is fantastic and the atmosphere is just the right side of casual. The restaurant often has a guitarist playing in the evenings to add to the ambiance.

Truly not to be missed.

Directions: Shinsaibashi Station, Exit 10 A number of JPY280 (KRW 2,800) Torikizoku izakayas are centrally located across Osaka, and indeed the whole country to invite both visitors and locals to a traditional Japanese cuisine experience. Having attracted the hungry through its doors with the bright yellow signs festooned with a clear Y280 (and Y294 after tax) price on all drink and food items, all items are listed on an equally inviting picture menu. Enjoy a range of yakitori – or grilled – meats, simple sides (such as French fries, cheese balls or pickle) alongside any shochu, beer or soft drink beverage.

A great night out, whoever you are with.

Directions: Look out anywhere for the Y280 red on yellow sign around the country.

September 2015 www.groovekorea.com 59

Tin’s Hall in Tennoji offers one of the best burger and beer deals in Osaka (JPY1,000 or KRW10,000) and a range of beverages to keep the evening lively. The staff are super friendly with owner Nori regularly getting behind the microphone on live music nights to belt out some Bon Jovi covers.

Address: 543-0054, Osaka-Shi, Tennoji-ku, Minamikawahori-cho 10-3

Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)

Three To Try (Drinks)

Several airlines fly daily from Seoul to Osaka, with Eastar, Jin Air and Japanese budget airline Peach among the cheapest options. Approximately half of all flights leave in the morning, meaning that you can be in Osaka for lunch if you get your bookings right. While some fly from Gimpo, the majority leave from Incheon. All fly into Kansai airport, leaving you about a fifty-minute train ride from central Tennoji or Namba Stations in the middle of the city.

TRA V E L

With two J-League teams and two baseball sides in the area, it’s never a problem getting your sporting fix. The more successful of the soccer sides is Gamba Osaka, who play at the 20,000 capacity Bunpaku Stadium in the city’s north and in the past has won the Asian Champions League in addition to numerous league titles and Emperors Cups. Less successful, gutsy underdog Cerezo Osaka is playing in the second tier this year, but in Diego Forlan nevertheless has one of the most high-profile stars in the J-League. For baseball, the Hanshin Tigers is one of the most famous baseball sides in Japan. Despite only having limited success over the years, the Koshien Stadium outfit has a fanatical support, with fans even traditionally diving into the Dotonbori river after a rare title win. Head to the south of the city, and Kintetsu Buffaloes regularly play matches at Osaka Dome – one of a number of indoor venues across the country – so weather needn’t be an issue. For something more traditional, Osaka hosts the Spring Sumo tournament in March of each year. Running over a two-week period, events start at 10am with lower stable fighters competing before the main division bouts begin from about 4pm.

How to get there

Story and photos by George Kalli

Thursday Morning

in

Vietnam

B 60 www.groovekorea.com September 2015

A Crash Course in Vietnamese Courtship

oarding the plane to travel to Bruce’s le dinh hon (engagement ceremony) in Hoi An, Vietnam, it was evident that his courtship was being conducted according to rules which were unfamiliar to me. While a Westerner marrying a local Vietnamese woman isn’t unique, typically she would accompany him back to his homeland. This was not to be for Bruce. He packed what he could carry, sold his house and remaining belongings, tearily entrusted his two canine best friends to others, and relocated to Vietnam – all to date the woman he hoped someday to marry. From the very first dates through to his eventual marriage proposal, he had to ensure that his relationship with Huong complied fully with local Vietnamese customs and expectations. This explained my departure from Seoul on a Wednesday evening: a family monk, based upon the birthdays of the couple, determined that the most auspicious time for the ceremony was to be at 8.30 the following morning.

Bruce’s wooing of Huong did not get off to a stellar start. They made tentative plans to trav-

el north to Hanoi and Ha Long Bay. Since this would be their first formal date, Bruce needed the approval of Huong’s mother. He alone requesting such a privilege wasn’t sufficient, as tradition calls for parents of both parties to convene to determine if the couple will reflect favorably upon each family. Accordingly, Bruce’s mother made her first ever trip to Vietnam to play her part in traditional Vietnamese matchmaking. Huong’s family hosted a festive welcome lunch. All was cheery until Bruce broached the topic of taking Huong north.

Smiles evaporated and an immediate hush fell over the feast. Huong’s mother stared intently at the ground and Bruce’s mother began to cry.

For Huong’s mother, the suggestion triggered many misgivings. Sure that Bruce had many girlfriends in America, she was suspicious of his interest in her small-town Vietnamese daughter. She explained how much Huong meant to her and the family and stressed that she did not want her daughter to become “a material girl” or live far from Hoi An, the family’s home for over 300 years. After copious praise of the family, in particular to the mother for raising such a fine daughter, and assurances that no single women lived on his home island of Molokai, Hawaii, permission was granted.

During their trip, Mama called twice a day to ensure Huong’s well-being and that Bruce was being the gentleman he assured her he was.

The trip was a smashing success. Bruce decided to continue his pursuit of Huong in earnest. He rented an apartment in nearby Danang, got settled, and shortly thereafter invited Huong’s mother over to request her daughter’s hand in marriage. Following the ordeal of asking permission to travel together, her acquiescence to this request was surprisingly anti-climactic. Once the date was set by the family monk, preparations for the celebration began.

No small matter, as in Vietnam, the engagement ceremony is considered more important than the actual wedding. Luckily for me, I could join Bruce on his big day, exactly doubling the number of non-Vietnamese guests.

On the big morning, Bruce and I set out for Huong’s family home along with his mother, eleven groomsmen, and a substantial number of gifts. Before the engagement, the bride’s

From the very first dates through to his eventual marriage proposal, he had to ensure that his relations with Huong complied fully with local Vietnamese customs and expectations. family requests items of their choosing, in essence a dowry, from the groom’s family. While a variety of lavish materials may be requested, there are several traditional gifts that are included to ensure good luck. These include betel leaves, areca nuts, cakes, gold, jewelry, money, and brandy. These items were all placed in red lacquer boxes and presented to Huong’s family upon an odd number of red trays, since red is

by the low plastic stools ubiquitous to outdoor dining in Vietnam. Multiple cases of the local beer, Larue, were stashed beneath each table.

The centerpiece, however, was the colorful ancestral altar located just inside the porch. It was upon this altar that the many gifts were placed following their acceptance by Huong’s family.

Most importantly, it was here that the couple burned agarwood incense, bowed their heads, and prayed to their ancestors for approval of their union. Once ancestral blessings were bestowed upon the couple and engagement jewelry was presented to Huong, it was time to partake in celebratory gluttony.

I could not fathom a kitchen within that modest home capable of producing such culinary extravagance. Cuisine sampled included the

September 2015 www.groovekorea.com 61

Hoi An specialty white rose shrimp dumplings, whole chickens with their wattles still intact, Vietnamese sausage (chả lụa), platters of pork accompanied by fresh lettuce wraps, egg drop soup, plates of large prawns, shrimp chips with dipping sauces, spring rolls, and so much more.

I was the lone foreigner seated at a table of Vietnamese coeds. All the females were classmates of Huong in the English program at the local university. Although very shy, they all the spoke passable levels of English. On the other hand, the males at the table spoke no English save for the expression “ONE SHOT!” which they commanded of me repeatedly. As the pile of empty Larue cans at my feet formed a small gleaming aluminum hillock, my trips to the adjacent fields to urinate became increasingly frequent. It was ultimately my need to vomit in the nearby maize, well before noon, which became worrisome. To the dismay of the beer guzzling males, I refused to “one shot” any additional beers. No grasp of each other’s language was required to express their disappointment in me. Conveniently though, it was soon time to leave.

Accepting Bruce’s invitation wasn’t an easy decision for me. We had been introduced less than a year prior by mutual friends while in Vietnam. The superstitiously selected Thursday morning start time, meanwhile, meant extra days off from work. I was unsure if the travel expenses and time off were justified for somebody I hardly knew. I’m glad my sense of adventure prevailed. Not only did I enjoy the most memorable Thursday morning I can remember, we have since become close friends, keeping in daily contact. Although I will be returning to live in Alaska soon, I know when I will be back – January – for that is when the family monk has determined the most auspicious time for the wedding. I can’t wait.

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

the color of love and odd numbers are considered lucky. The betel leaves and areca nuts are of particular significance, as the act of chewing the intoxicating and mouth-staining combination symbolically initiates dialogue between the two families.

Lacking vehicular access, we hand-carried the gifts for the last portion of the journey to Huong’s family home. The bridesmaids, lithe and glimmering in their elegant pink ao dai dresses, graciously led us along dirt paths beside palm tree-lined crops to a gate vibrantly adorned with red and white fabric flowers proclaiming “Happy Wedding.” The humble abode beyond the gate had obviously been prepared for an extravagant feast. Its small courtyard was packed full of plastic tables, each ringed

T R A V E L

All was cheery until Bruce broached the topic of taking Huong north. Smiles evaporated and an immediate hush fell over the feast.

Huong’s mother stared intently at the ground and Bruce’s mother began to cry.

Rugby’s Best Descend Story by Luke Butcher / Photos courtesy of Getty Images and The Press Association

62 www.groovekorea.com September 2015

Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)

SPORTS

on England for Showcase World Cup

Rugby returns to its

spiritual home for the hotly anticipated World Cup, but can anybody stop New Zealand?

F

or rugby fans, this summer has been a long build-up to one of the most hotly anticipated sporting events of the year. If you like your beer alongside some bruising, uncompromising, and non-stop sport there is only one thing you should be watching from September 18: the 2015 Rugby World Cup. This year’s edition promises to be a barnstormer as the sport returns to its spiritual home in England with 20 nations competing for glory, pride, and the William Webb Ellis Trophy. Even if you don’t know your Richie McCaws from your Quade Coopers (don’t worry; someone will set you right), there’s still a mountain of enjoyment to be had from six weeks of rugby brilliance.

First held amid mild disinterest (aside from then hosts New Zealand) in 1987, the tournament has grown both in stature and size every year and reached its current format of 20 sides in 2003. The increased competitiveness of the Six Nations Championship in Europe, the Southern Hemisphere’s Rugby Championship plus top club rugby tournaments has increased the quality of the sport since the amateur days of the first few tournaments. Historically Australia, New Zealand, and South Africa have dominat-

ed, with England’s solitary success coming in 2003, and this year the Kiwis, known as the All Blacks, come in as holders and strong favorites.

The tournament begins with four groups of five nations who play each other to determine the top two in the group to qualify for the quarter finals. From then on the competition hits top gear, with a straight knockout all the way to the final on October 31. The final stages rarely see any surprise teams, but they are the most tense, aggressive, and passionate games between the best nations in the world.

Every major tournament seems to offer a Group of Death nowadays, but with Australia, England, and Wales fighting for two quarter final spots, the math is indisputable; one of the big guns will be gone before the quarters. England and Wales are both coming off successful Six Nations tournaments, when both countries only lost one match, and England in particular has had a solid warm up to the tournament. Michael Cheika’s Australia side won a truncated Southern Hemisphere Rugby Championship over the summer where the Aussies beat New Zealand 27-19 to record its first win

Historically Australia, New Zealand, and South Africa have dominated, and this year the Kiwis, known as the All Blacks, come in as holders and overwhelming favourites.

Group

A

Group

B

Group

C

Group

D

Australia England Wales Fiji Uruguay

The final stages rarely see any surprise teams, but they are the most tense, aggressive, and passionate games between the best nations in the world you will see.

September 2015 www.groovekorea.com 63

Read more from Luke Butcher at his blog waegukinsport.com Contact details: lbutcher1109@gmail.com

Pool stage Saturday 19 September (all times Korea Time) Pool A: England v Fiji 4am Saturday 19 / Sunday 20 September Pool C: Tonga v Georgia (8pm) Pool D: Ireland v Canada (10.30pm) Pool B: South Africa v Japan (12.45am) Pool D: France v Italy (4am) Sunday 20 / Monday 21 September Pool B: Samoa v USA (8pm) Pool A: Wales v Uruguay (10.30pm) Pool C: New Zealand v Argentina (12.45am) Wednesday 23 / Thursday 24 September Pool B: Scotland v Japan (10.30pm) Pool A: Australia v Fiji (12.45am) Pool D: France v Romania (4am) Thursday 24 / Friday 25 September Pool C: New Zealand v Namibia (4am) Saturday 26 September Pool C: Argentina v Georgia (12.45am) Saturday 26 / Sunday 27 September Pool D: Italy v Canada (10.30pm) Pool B: South Africa v Samoa (12.45am) Pool A: England v Wales (4am) Sunday 27 / Monday 28 September Pool A: Australia v Uruguay (8pm) Pool B: Scotland v United States (10.30pm) Pool D: Ireland v Romania (12.45am) Wednesday 30 September Pool C: Tonga v Namibia (12.45am) Thursday 1 / Friday 2 October Pool A: Wales v Fiji (12.45am) Pool D: France v Canada (4am, Milton Keynes) Friday 2 / Saturday 3 October Pool C: New Zealand v Georgia (4am) Saturday 3 / Sunday 4 October Pool B: Samoa v Japan (10.30pm) Pool B: South Africa v Scotland (12.45am) Pool A: England v Australia (4am) Sunday 4 / Monday 5 October Pool C: Argentina v Tonga (10.30pm) Pool D: Ireland v Italy (12.45am) Tuesday 6 / Wednesday 7 October Pool D: Canada v Romania (12.45am) Pool A: Uruguay v Fiji (4am) Wednesday 7 / Thursday 8 October Pool B: South Africa v United States (12.45am) Pool C: Namibia v Georgia (4am) Friday 9 / Saturday 10 October Pool C: New Zealand v Tonga (4am) Saturday 10 / Sunday 11 October Pool B: Samoa v Scotland (10.30pm) Pool A: Australia v Wales (12.45am) Pool A: England v Uruguay (4am) Sunday 11 / Monday 12 October Pool C: Argentina v Namibia (8pm) Pool D: Italy v Romania (10.30pm) Pool D: France v Ireland (12.45am) Pool B: United States v Japan (4am) Quarter-finals Saturday 17 / Sunday 18 October Winner Pool B v Runner-up Pool A (12am) Winner Pool C v Runner-up Pool D (4am) Sunday 18 / Monday 19 October Winner Pool D v Runner-up Pool C (9pm) Winner Pool A v Runner-up Pool B (12am) Semi-finals Saturday25 / Sunday 26 October Winner QF1 v Winner QF2 (12am) Sunday 26 / Monday 27 October Winner QF3 v Winner QF4 (12am) Third place play-off Saturday 31 October (4am) Final Sunday November 1 (12am)

Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)

their light has faded significantly in the last four years (only registering two wins in the last Six Nations), and Italy has not really progressed over the past decade unless you count regularly beating Scotland. Ranked second in the world, Ireland will feel quietly confident after they won the Six Nations tournament earlier in the year, but Joe Schmidt’s charges will be wary of having regularly flattered to deceive on the biggest stage in the past.

France, despite winning 29-0 against the Italians earlier in the year, will want to be careful of not being upset by an Italian side that probably see this as its best ever chance to go beyond the group stages. For those on minnow watch, Canada’s match against Romania will mean 80 minutes of bone-crunching action, although both sides may fancy themselves against the Italians.

For everyone living in South Korea, following your team will mean some late nights. The action kicks off on Saturday September 18 (Sunday at 4am Korean time) with England against Fiji. The full list of fixtures has four main time slots during the group stage, which translate to 8pm, 10:30pm, 12:45am, and 4am Korean time. The group games go until October 11, with the pick of the games probably England against Australia, a repeat of the 2003 final, on Sunday morning 4am Korean time. The quarters, semis, and final (mercifully for us all working) will all be played on the last three weekends of October, with the final at 1am Seoul time on Sunday, November 1. By then, 48 gruelling matches in what could be anything from glorious sunshine to autumn drizzle will have decided which nation gets bragging rights for the next four years. It’s time to set those alarm clocks and get really bloody excited. It’s time for one of the greatest shows on Earth.

France Ireland Italy Canada Romania

SPORTS

over its traditional foe in ten matches. Unfortunately, the Aussies then got trounced

by New Zealand in the annual Bledisloe Cup match, leaving more known unknowns about the Wallabies than an evening with Donald Rumsfeld. Adding extra spice to the contest will be that the runners-up in the group are likely to face a strong South Africa side in the quarter-finals. Roared on by a raucous home support in the 82,000 seater Twickenham stadium, England’s matches against the old enemies of Wales and Australia will be the absolute pick of the group games.

South Africa and New Zealand are expected to walk groups B and C respectively, with Scotland fancying its chances of progressing alongside the Springboks from a group that also contains Samoa, Japan, and the United States. The Japanese will be desperate to make a splash in this tournament as the country prepares for hosting duties in 2019, and could spring a surprise. Expect the battle for second to be one of the more interesting subplots of the tournament.

Group C is the place to be for high-scoring try fests as the All Blacks encounter minnows Georgia and Namibia. The All Blacks enter the tournament with iconic captain Richie McCaw and kicker Dan Carter both facing retirement and will be even more focused than usual on bringing a third title back to Auckland. Argentina, fresh from a first-ever win over South Africa, will expect to overcome Tonga for second place in the group. For most of the less rugby-focused nations like the USA, Romania, and Canada, registering a decent performance and maybe snatching a win will be the most they can hope for, meaning that matches such as Namibia vs Georgia might not mean a lot for the major nations but will mean everything for countries hoping to spark an interest in the sport back home.

Group D sees Ireland, France, and Italy mashed together in a group. France surprised many by reaching the final last time out but

Rugby World Cup Fixtures

New Zealand Argentina Tonga Georgia Namibia

South Africa Scotland Samoa Japan United States

Story by Liam Ring / Photos courtesy of Seoul Survivors

Taking A Much Needed Breather For The Rugby World Cup Seoul Survivors reach the half-way point in a hectic season with plenty still to come

64 www.groovekorea.com September 2015

Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)

SPORTS

O

ne club with a committed interest in this month’s Rugby World Cup (RWC) in England will be expatriate side Seoul Survivors, who have plans for the opening match on September 18 between England and Fiji and beyond. “Almost all of us,” confirms committed Survivor Thorne Laudy, “will be at Sin Bin Sports Bar in Itaewon every Saturday, with a scattering of lads there for games during the week as well.” One assumes the sports bar will have made significant preparations for Survivor and non-Survivor alike in what is guaranteed to be one of the biggest tournaments in world sports this fall.

Boasting members from across the major and minor rugby powers, the club brings together everyone from the committed to the novice, with upwards of forty squad members. The club undergoes the same regular turnover in players that any expatriate club experiences given the sometimes transient nature of living overseas.

Nevertheless, through the efforts of 12 to 15 stalwart members such as New Zealand Chamber of Commerce chair and club captain Simon Walsh and club manager Yoon Sok-hee, new members are integrated as quickly as possible into the game and the social aspects of being a Survivor. Landy, himself only a member for a little over a year, knew nothing of the sport when he joined the club.

“I was welcomed into the team and learned a sport that I hadn’t even watched on TV before quite quickly – all thanks to the help of my friends.”

Currently having just finished their summer break, the Survivors traveled to Daegu for the latest round of the eight-team Korea Expatriate Rugby Association (KERA) Championship on August 29. The season started out with KERA championship rounds and a trip to the Philippines for the Manila 10s tournament. The Survivors won their first match against INSEAD Rugby Club, but then dropped the following 3 matches to be eliminated in the quarter-finals for the bowl championship.

Competition in the Yellow Sea Cup came courtesy of matches against the Shanghai Hairy Crabs (lost 60-20) and the Beijing Devils (lost 23-19 in a very close tie). Throw in exhibition matches against University Club Hong Kong (won 68-5) and South-

ampton Law School Centurions (won 60-7) and it’s fair to say that the Survivors have had what any expatriate club would term a busy season. All of this would not be possible without the help of local restaurants and with Vatos and SAB Miller supplying food and beverages at Seoul’s home games, you are never likely to be hungry or thirsty for long. The club is also indebted to Savills, Wilson Parking, and the Seoul Grand Hyatt for their assistance this season.

Looking ahead, the club is planning a trip to Cambodia for the Phnom Penh 10s tournament in November in addition to further rounds of the KERA championship as the race heats up for bragging rights on the peninsula. The club will also be committed participants in the Movember Charity event before rounding off its season with a formal end-of-year banquet for club members. Hosted last year by Zelens in Hannam-dong, the final event has become one of the social mainstays of the year, and all club members will be looking forward to capping off what has been an especially busy season before looking forward to an equally action-packed 2016. In addition to taking charity bids for the Movember “shave off,” the club will also be giving out awards of both the fun and serious variety, with players either hiding from or jostling for titles such as most useless player, most valuable player, and best back and forward, among others.

Always on the look-out for recruits, September offers the perfect opportunity for prospective players to meet new people either in front of an LED full HD TV or in a scrum. Training is every Saturday at the Jamwon Rugby pitch near Apgujeong Station with a 10am start, and the club has regular events at Sin Bin Sports Bar in Itaewon.

Grab your gear or your beer and see you there. It’s rucking brilliant.

With thanks to Thorne Landy and Joshua Haney for their help with the article.

MORE INFO Check out the Seoul Survivors Facebook page.

Contact Info: Email Yoon Sok-hee at yscott0207@gmail.com

T

he recent visit by World Cup winning coach Graham Henry should have been a boon for an association largely unable to attract either the funding or interest necessary to improve the domestic rugby player’s lot in Korea. During a speech before an audience including Korea Rugby Union (KRU) representatives, Henry pointed to Korea’s position in the International Rugby Board (IRB) rankings and how theoretically close Korea was to World Cup qualification. With the 2019 tournament coming to Japan, one would expect the KRU to see an opportunity to develop the sport and build towards qualification. Unfortunately for the rugby fraternity on the peninsula, and with Hong Kong showing definitive improvement over the past few seasons, it looks more likely that the Hong Kongers will be the next Asian side to make a solid breakthrough.

Both financially and competitively, the sport is facing a period of uncertainty on the peninsula.

Domestic competition overall suffered a blow earlier this year when Samsung Heavy Industries withdrew funding from its side after twenty years in the game citing financial considerations.

Domestic competition suffered a blow earlier this year when Samsung Heavy Industries withdrew funding from its side after twenty years in the game citing financial considerations. Speaking at a press conference in Seoul earlier in the year, KRU vice-president Won Jeong-chon stopped short of begging Samsung to re-consider, but questioned how a do-

Story and photos by Liam Ring

Korean Rugby Faces An Uncertain Future The Korea Rugby Union has struggled to develop the game on the peninsula and now manages a game in danger of stagnation.

WED

Seoul Pool League

SEP

2

every Wednesday

Sides from around Seoul including Sin Bin, Shenanigans and Scrooges 7.30pm onwards Bars around the Itaewon and HBC area (every Wednesday at Scrooge) THUrs

World Cup Qualifier

SEP

South Korea vs. Laos 8pm Hwaseong Stadium, Gyeonggi-do Province.

SAT

3

each Saturday

SEP

Seoul Baseball League matches

5

Route 66, Dillingers, Phillies, Wolfhound and Beer O’Clock 9am onwards Gwacheon Government Complex (Line 4) every Saturday, except 12

Seoul Gaels GAA training

Seoul Gaels Men’s and Ladies’ Gaelic Football teams / Hurling and Camogie teams 2pm to 6pm / Yongsan Army Base www.facebook.com/seoul.gaels every Saturday

Touch rugby games

Korea Touch Rugby Association Check 11am start / Jamwon Pitch Apgujeong www.facebook.com/koreatouch

FAT BOYS 10s Charity Tournament Rugby sides from across Asia including the Seoul Survivors Angels City, Philippines

Seoul International Darts League

Sides from around Seoul including Sin Bin, Shenanigans and Scrooges 7.30pm to 10.30pm Bars around the Itaewon and HBC area (every Monday at Sin Bin Bar) www.seouldarts.net SAT

SEP

12

(Sat.19 Korea Time) Final on November 1st

Rugby World Cup opener England vs. Fiji 4am Korea Time Live at Sin Bin Bar

SUN

SEP

13

September 2015 www.groovekorea.com 65

19

7

every Monday

Seoul Gaels, Loachra Busan, Daegu Fianna, Shanghai GAA, Teams from Japan and Hong Kong (T.B.C.) 10.30am to 5pm with an after-party at Wolfhound Bar afterwards Namdong Asiad Rugby Field Stadium. Take Seoul Subway Line One to Songnae Station and it’s a short cab ride from there. www.facebook.com/ northasiangaelicgames?fref=ts

Women’s open mat practice 3pm to 5pm www.seoulmartialarts.com Body and Seoul in Kyungnidan

SEP

SEP

North Asian GAA Games

Brazilian Jiu Jitsu Open Mat Rollathon

SAT

MON

Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)

ticity; not to mention the problems players will encounter due to the non-renewal of contracts. Overall, the presence of major company sponsorship is integral, resulting in difficulties for Korean clubs (and this applies to other sports aside from baseball on the peninsula) if one is not secured.

Sponsorship is necessary to build a sustainable model when fans don’t watch what they see as a lower quality product and players lack the opportunity to properly develop their skills.

Another issue is the relative lack of player availability as only the very best university players harbour much ambition of continuing the game after their studies. The KRU may point to a vibrant high school program, but with nowhere to go from there, it takes a lot of commitment to put in the hours necessary to compete at the highest level. There simply isn’t a liveable wage in the sport.

The KRU had hoped to focus on the 2016 and 2020 Olympics (where the Sevens form of the sport will be played) as possibilities for success, but recent events coupled with the overall structure of the game on the peninsula make this dream little more than that. Where in the past Korea won gold medals at Asian games events and proved competitive in matches against Japan’s Brave Blossoms, a lack of development has seen the sport stagnate to the detriment of players and fans. Whether Korea can prepare sufficiently to have a realistic shot at coming through the first round of the Olympic qualification tournament in Hong Kong in November may well depend on limiting the damage that Samsung’s decision has brought, but the fact the KRU has had to depend so heavily on chaebol support for the game to survive suggests that Korea’s place at the begging table of international rugby is assured.

SPORTS

mestic league could continue to operate with only two semi-professional sides. That the KRU felt Samsung’s program, which cost a reputed KRW 2 billion a year to maintain, was so vital to the game’s continued survival suggests that funding and support is pretty thin on the ground.

Results on the pitch haven’t been any better. Taking its place in the top tier of the reformatted Asian Rugby Championship, Korea put in a stellar performance against old enemy Japan in front of a sparse crowd at the Namdong Asiad Rugby Stadium before going down 56-30. If this had been seen as a positive omen, then what followed next suggests that someone at the KRU tripped over – or possibly kicked - a black cat. A narrow win over hosts Hong Kong was then followed by a 66-10 shellacking to Japan in Fukuoka before Korea lost at the death in its final game to Hong Kong at Namdong. Needing Japan to administer a heavy defeat to Hong Kong to avoid the wooden spoon, the match was abandoned due to torrential rain, meaning that Hong Kong got three points for a draw and left Korea adrift at the bottom of the table and facing a promotion/relegation playoff against Sri Lanka. Korea was then denied the chance to save its blushes via a convincing victory as the Sri Lankans withdrew from the match, citing (ironically enough) financial reasons. Fortunately, Korea remained in the top tier – some might argue by default.

Domestically, the sport suffers with the best of the Korea national team plying their trade in the better funded and watched Japanese league.

Electricity giant KEPCO and POSCO Engineering and Construction fund semi-professional sides, but Samsung’s decision leaves the domestic league severely lacking in authen-

Rugby At The Ivy League Rugby at the university level has the desire but questions remain over the infrastructure

66 www.groovekorea.com September 2015

Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)

SPORTS

Story by Liam Ring Photos by David Wellbaum

W

alking into a coffee shop near Korea University, it isn’t too difficult to spot Ho-jun Jung.

Rugby players tend to have a certain physique, and although his height is nothing to be commented on, the guy has clearly been in the weights room. He will later tell me that he trains for four hours a day, six days a week, with one hour a day dedicated to the weights room. That would explain the arms then. Coffees secured, we head for a table near the back of the shop where we can talk in relative quiet. I raise an eyebrow at his dessert-like concoction compared to my black Americano. He shrugs his shoulders.

“The coaches don’t mind this too much. Their number one mantra is not to lose weight.” Fair enough then.

Getting into the sport at high school after being spotted playing basketball by one of the rugby coaches, the possibility of his catching ability being suited for the rugby line-out is briefly pondered. Yet Ho-jun quickly found himself sent to the flank position, which meant focusing as much on speed as on ball handling. He occasionally plays center as well, meaning that he needs strength as well as pace in order to increase his chances of getting on the pitch. As a freshman, his chances of getting match time this season may be limited, although he hopes for minutes in annual games against either Japan’s Waseda University or local rivals Yonsei. His ultimate goal over the next two seasons is to simply get better at

the sport and hopefully carry some of his high school success into his university career. “If we can win all our games this and next season then I’ll be happy.”

While Korea University only play Waseda once a season, they play Yonsei four times a year, with the main match during the Koyeonjeon (Yeonkojeon if you are of a Yonsei affiliation) university tournament. Playing five different sports over a September weekend, the two SKY universities vie for local bragging rights by playing soccer, ice hockey, basketball, baseball, and of course rugby. Is the

As a freshman, his chances of getting match time this season may be limited, although he hopes for minutes in annual games against either Japan’s Waseda University

or local rivals Yonsei. pressure on for September? “Absolutely,” nods Ho-jun. “We beat them in all five games last year; the first whitewash in the history of the tournament.” So plenty to live up to then.

Training involves work on team and combination skills, with coaches focusing on building the players’ ability to find quick solutions to high pressure situations in matches. “We do a lot of set-piece work and focus on building team skills. We have a forty-man squad so do a lot of inter-squad matches as well.” While high school rugby offers regular fixtures for developing players, university rugby struggles

to provide this regular competition. “There are really only about ten university sides in the country.” Ho-jun takes a moment to count off the names – for me only the Yonsei and Kyung-hee sides register. “But then again, the matches we do play don’t get a huge amount of interest anyway – with the exception of the Koyeonjeon game, of course.” It’s a problem that becomes even more pronounced once university ends and players seek to bring their skills to the professional sphere. “Very few people will really see this as a career. The ambition for a typical high school rugby player is to get into a good physical education program at a top university. Very few see the game as a chance for a full-time job in the sport.”

We are reaching the dregs of our coffees now. I ask him what he thinks is needed to improve rugby in Korea. His answer follows the thread of both this and many other conversations I’ve had with rugby people in Korea.

“We need game time. For the national team, we need regular matches against Hong Kong and Japan. Of course the dream would be to play against bigger nations like the All Blacks.”

I mention Korea’s recent defeat to Hong Kong which saw them finish last of the three teams in the top tier of the Asian Championship.

“Yeah, but we need the experience of playing better sides. Regular challenges make you better in anything.” He swirls his straw around the remnants of his coffee before giving me his final thought. “Rugby is certainly no different.”

Korea University and Yonsei University face off as part of their three-day sports festival between September 18-20.

Story by Liam Ring / Photos by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring

In The Presence Of A Rugby Legend Graham Henry visits Yonsei University to talk management, coaching, and tactics.

SAT

Korea Expat Rugby Association

SEP

Expatriate sides from across Korea including the Seoul Survivors.

All Day / Jeonnam

19

Incheon 70.3 Ironman Triathlon

Triathletes from across Korea and overseas From 6am/ Songdo Central Park and Lake

Rugby World Cup

SUN

SEP

20

New Zealand vs. Argentina 12.45am Korea time / Live at Sin Bin Bar MON-SUN

KIA Korea Tennis Open

SEP

The writer attended the session at the kind invitation of Edge Communications.

Yonsei University Rugby team take on their Korea University rivals in the Koyeonjeon Tournament in September at Olympic Park in Seoul.

September 2015 www.groovekorea.com 67

that has received the most attention so far) to illustrate different attacking moves. In all of this there is still the question of what you should do with lesser players. “The same.” A few laugh, but Henry sticks to his mantra. “Do the simple things well.” He goes through three line-out set-ups and three scrum set-ups. The board is now a tapestry of numbers, arrows, crosses, and shapes. Photos are being taken.

Henry, a former schoolmaster and World Cup winning coach almost literally owns both the whiteboard and the room. It has taken time, but by the end of his talk – he speaks for 90 minutes – most of the coaches will have taken something from the experience. He finishes by returning to his off-field concerns – and every player having their own development plan and of the importance of coaches touching base with their players, if even for only a minute, as often as possible. “I used to keep a register,” he recalls, “of who I had and hadn’t talked to.” He emphasizes how it was vital in keeping players and coaches connected. A player who feels valued, much like in any walk of life, will be a better player.

The session ends with a group photo and a reminder of the importance of simplicity in play. Nothing discussed today has been outside of the reach of the assembled coaches and their charges. It is simply a matter of applying it effectively. Henry shakes hands with some of those assembled and leaves for another appointment. His whirlwind trip to Seoul will also include the aforementioned charity dinner and a quick trip to the DMZ. How much he will remember of his morning in room 202 of the Yonsei Sports Science building can’t be speculated on. However, what the Yonsei coaches remember will probably be seen in their matches against Korea University in September.

Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)

ice. He continues, discussing the necessity of fitness and diet in coaches and how preparing yourself first will lead to your being able to prepare your players. “If you aren’t serious every day,” Graham Henry tells the assembled players and coaches, “you’ve lost that day.” You do, unfortunately, get the feeling that his audience is out of tune with the message. While management styles and healthy living are all well and good, this is perhaps not quite what they had in mind when they imagined a session with a former World Cup winning coach.

A question emerges from the crowd – What is the process you go through to set up a strategy? It’s more in line with what the coaches want to hear, and Henry, pausing for a moment, calls for a whiteboard marker from the audience. Item secured, he turns to the board and begins speaking more quickly as he writes.

The roles of the managers, coaches, fitness and diet staff, and players are explained. The need for leadership and responsibility within the squad is highlighted. Former All Blacks are named and their places within the structure explained. Henry tries to engage with his audience again. “Is this done at national level?”

Murmurs and nods of assent are given. “What about at the lower levels?” Silence again. A few shakes of the head. One coach comments that this can’t be done with players of lower ability but is quietly admonished by one of the head coaches. Nothing that Henry has said so far is ability-dependent. Structurally, Henry emphasizes, uniformity is vital so that every player at every level can step into their role.

“The era of the coach as dictator is dead.” He pauses here and looks around the room before continuing. “A coaches’ job is to develop better players. And player empowerment is part of that.”

We have moved onto tactics now, and here is where the Yonsei coaches pay the most attention. Henry discusses the importance of a good line-out and scrum, the need for good ball retention, and three ways in which to get over the game line. Cameras are held aloft by three different coaches. Names of former All Black greats and their positions and numbers are mentioned again (a move by Henry

SPORTS

G

raham Henry is not a man for silly talk or for taking things lightly. In seven years as All Blacks coach, he presided over 88 wins in 103 tests, including most importantly the 8-7 win over France in the 2011 Rugby World Cup final. It is this kind of record that brings people flocking to hear him speak as an after-dinner speaker. Later he will address luminaries such as the New Zealand and UK ambassadors at an charity dinner organized jointly by the New Zealand, Australian, South African, and British chambers of commerce.

However, now he stands in a classroom in Yonsei University’s Sports Science building, discussing his beliefs of the rugby field. It is here, amongst fellow coaches rather than business people, that he may well feel at his most comfortable.

Having spent the previous day overseeing a training session at the university training ground, he isn’t one to mince his words. Asked for his opinion on the players, he has very positive things to say about the high school and university squads where he sees lots of potential. He is less enamoured with the professional players who attended and only offers a raised eyebrow when told that some of them are internationals. Still, Korea ranks 22nd in the world – only two places off a World Cup place - and this position is something that Henry will refer to again and again during his time on the peninsula.

It’s just after 9am, and some audience members are clearly feeling the worse for it. As Henry talks about the need for professionalism and communication between coaches, – pausing only while his able translator Richard explains - one coach scribbles furiously while the others sit with arms folded or heads bowed towards their phones. “How many of you are serious about being rugby coaches?” the former head-master asks the room. Question translated, two raise their hands. The others look mildly uncomfortable and there is more muttering. Henry has clearly never been in a Korean classroom, where these types of ice-breakers aren’t going to break too much

21-27

Female tennis players from across the globe Seoul Olympic Park Tennis Center

Scrooge

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e-located to the more convenient main Itaewon street (above the ABC shoe store on the same side as the Hamilton Hotel) two years ago, Scrooge has been a mainstay of the sporting community in Seoul for a decade now. The bar focuses not only on local events – it sponsors darts and pool teams in their respective leagues – but also focuses on bringing international events to Itaewon, with everything from rugby and cricket to American football and Formula 1. Recent major events included the Mayweather/Pacquiao fight with a full Scrooge breakfast menu and the Super Bowl (the last few minutes of which are likely to be remembered for some time to come).

With five large flat-screen TVs and a 100inch HD projector screen, you will be hardpressed NOT to have a clear view of the action. The bar has even set up one screen so

Big

Drinks, Screens, Acti0n.

Six bars is all you need for the Rugby World Cup

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orried about fiddling about with streams? Not sure if you can handle Australia vs England on a small screen at home? Why not head to one of these venues for a hasslefree evening (or early morning) with your rugby heroes. There’ll be plenty to eat and drink and loads of like-minded sporting people to meet too. Check out Groove’s selection of the six top places to enjoy Rugby this Fall.

Photos courtesy of Scrooge

that smokers can still keep an eye on the action while having a puff. With so many screens, almost any sports event can be shown live and staff take requests where possible. The bar fits 80 people comfortably, with the pool table sacrificed when busy to allow for more spectators, and with opening times from 4pm ‘til late on weekdays and 2pm ‘til late on weekends, there is plenty of opportunity to watch Rugby World Cup games either live or on replay. And fans of any team will be able to get a slice of the action; as owner Mark Jones points out, “We are an equal opportunity rugby supporter.”

Sport can only offer so much sustenance without the right kind of food and beverage, meaning that Western-style pub grub including pizzas, burgers, chicken wings (which take on an “insane” element on a Tuesday night), ribs, and chili cheese fries are among the favorites. Featured drinks such as Friday’s Four Horsemen shots special go hand in hand with the bar’s other famous concoctions and, with over ten beers on tap including Guinness, Erdinger, Ark, and Kilkenny and special shots planned for the Rugby World Cup, there is sure to be plenty of life in whichever game you head to Scrooge for.

Shenanigans Pub

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henanigans Pub prides itself on reminding its regulars of their favorite watering holes from Europe or North America. Well-known for barbeques, going-away parties, and other celebrations, the bar is gearing up for six weeks of frenetic rugby action with a focus on two of the Northern Hemisphere favorites.

The bar started out as Bless You in 2002, but took its more playful moniker three years ago courtesy of owner Willy Watson from Dublin. Only closed two days a year, the bar is open from 4pm until late Monday to Thursday and from 3pm on Friday and

weekends so anyone needing a beer and a game of darts or pool won’t have far to travel. As a bar with two teams in both the darts and pool leagues as well as having regulars in local rugby and soccer teams, it’s a venue well-used to sports action.

For the spectator, the bar plays regular Premier League games, rugby, boxing, and UFC. It also plans to start showing American football this season. For the Rugby World Cup, owner Willy Watson’s native isle will be one of the main features, although the bar promises that England matches will also be a regular fixture during the tournament.

That is not to say that other teams will not be featured however, with any game available

Cheeky Kiwi

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Sin Bin Itaewon Photos courtesy of Sin Bin

home and an international selection, there is no need to stick to Cass or OB. Tui, NZ Pure, and a number of beers from the Monteith Brewing Company jostle with overseas offerings such as Corona, VB, and Somersby. Mixed drinks and cocktails are also available, but the bar’s specialty drink is the “kettle” – served in a tea kettle, patrons can choose between Kiwi Smash, Long Island, and Heisenberg for 10 to 12 shots at KRW 15,000. For those of a more sophisticated persuasion, the bar also offers New Zealand white and red wines.

Check out the Cheeky Kiwi’s Facebook page for details on what the staff promise will be a month of full-blooded action.

Someone might even do a haka!

Be there for New Zealand vs. Argentina (Monday, Sept. 21 at 12.45am)

Matches vs. Namibia, Georgia, and Tonga are at 4am Korea time (check the Facebook page for details). If you want a game that the bar isn’t open for, contact the bar to make booking arrangements.

Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)

Photos courtesy of Shenanigans Pub

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ne of the major sports bars in Seoul, Sin Bin supports expatriate rugby clubs Seoul Survivors and Seoul Sisters throughout the season and shows rugby events such as the State of Origin series, the Southern Hemisphere Rugby Championship, and the European Six Nations. With the bar also regularly hosting both darts and pool league matches, it’s fair to say that it has its finger on the sporting pulse. Food offerings include wings, personalised pizzas, burgers, and platters, with regular discounts on different nights so sports fan won’t be hungry either. With 11 LED full HD televisions, the bar expects to be exceptionally busy over a month which will balance the rugby with American sports such as the NFL. Already with plans in place for a big event for the opening match between England and Fiji on the first Friday night/ Saturday morning of the tournament, expect plenty of the regular rugby stalwarts to be in situ throughout the month. Play a game of darts or shuffleboard, or practise your pool skills in between games, always confident of never missing a scrum or line out.

Be there for

SPORTS

he Cheeky Kiwi has nailed its colors to the mast for this tournament, with changed opening hours one way to ensure fans of the All Blacks can get their fill of the action.

Chosen as the New Zealand Chamber of Commerce’s official bar for the Rugby World Cup, there are likely to be plenty of All Black supporters making their way to Sinchon.

The bar is also involved in rugby at the local level, with its sponsorship of the Korea Touch Association Open since last September, the bar utilises two screens to show major sports events including rugby, cricket, and soccer within the forty plus seat venue.

For the thirsty and hungry fan, the bar furnishes top quality grub including fish and chips at KRW 15,000 and plenty of burger options. Just to add that air of authenticity, all fish is sourced from New Zealand, while the beef is either from New Zealand or Australia. All to bring a taste of home.

Drinks-wise, local beers are on tap but with a range of bottled offerings from back

Photos courtesy of Cheeky Kiwi

England vs. Fiji (Saturday, Sept. 19 at 4am) New Zealand vs. Argentina, (Sept. 21 at 12.45am )

September 2015 www.groovekorea.com 69

upon request. The bar comfortably fits 70 people with one large projector screen, one large HD screen and two smaller screens. It offers a traditional western pub menu including burgers, wings, and quesadillas, in addition to new UK pub-style dishes such as chips and curry, chicken tikka masala skewers, and a weekly Indian curry special.

Beers on tap include Guinness, Carlsberg at a very respectable KRW 6,000, local brews such as Red Rock and OB and craft beers Be High IPA and Hug Me White Ale. With screens, drinks, food, and even an outside garden patio with BBQ grills, there are plenty of reasons to head to Shenanigans this September.

Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)

SPORTS

Upper Deck

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pen since mid-January 2014, the Upper Deck has dedicated itself to the goal of bringing top quality sport to Kyungnidan, with American-style bar food and a variety of beverages to keep the locals happy. The bar offers 12 beers on tap, a variety of bottled beer, liquors, and cocktails, and competitively priced food. All set then to keep the hungry and thirsty satisfied.

The venue offers three floors of entertainment, with six 50- to 70-inch screens in addition to two three-meter HD projection TVs, so fans will have no problem

Wolfhound

getting a panoramic view of their sporting heroes. In addition to showing major UFC events (the bar sponsors a local MMA fighter), it has in the past also shown major championships such as the Super Bowl, World Series, NBA finals and World Cups, meaning that the upcoming Rugby World Cup will be little different.

Upper Deck opens from 5pm until around 2am on weekdays, and 11am until the intriguingly termed “late” on weekends, meaning that the rugby-obsessed Kyungnidan resident has every chance of getting late games, particularly on the weekend. Promising to focus on what the customer wants, Upper Deck is well-situated to offer plenty in September and beyond. www.upperdeckkorea.com

he bar synonymous with all things Irish, fans won’t have had the chance to draw breath with the ending of the GAA hurling and football championships before the rugby kicks in. The bar’s upstairs section offers six screens for a view from wherever you’re seated, so no matter how packed it gets, you’ll still be able to see a Johnny Sexton penalty or a Paul O’Connell leap. With full access to channels from the British Isles and Ireland, expect plenty of fans to be heading there as Ireland kick off its tournament against Canada on the first Saturday.

From there, the Irish move to a Sunday night slot with games being played just after midnight Korean time. With six screens and the ability to show different sports on the recently renovated second floor, the bar is ready to flow seamlessly from live GAA matches to hosting Bar-

A

Title Contenders > Chelsea

Photos courtesy of Wolfhound

Itaewon

T 70 www.groovekorea.com September 2015

Photos courtesy of Upper Deck

fter a blessedly short summer bereft of football, the Barclays Premier League (BPL) is back. While Chelsea sauntered to the last title, there has been significant strengthening among its rivals for this season. Manchester City spent the highest ever transfer fee of £49 million (over $75 million) for an English player on Raheem Stirling, Arsenal finally have a (mostly) reliable goalkeeper in Petr Cech, and Dutch maestro Louis van Gaal has spent the equivalent of a small country’s GDP to improve Manchester United. Factor in that a different team has won each of the last three Premier League titles and most pundits agree that last year’s procession has little chance of being repeated. So who are this year’s contenders?

clays Premier League soccer and the very best that the Rugby World Cup has to offer. Regular discounts on cider and other promotions add to the atmosphere. Hopefully, there will be plenty of opportunities for renditions of “Ireland’s Call” during the tournament.

Be there for Ireland vs. Canada (Saturday, Sept. 19 at 10.30pm) Ireland vs. Romania (Monday, Sept. 28 at 12.45am) Ireland vs. Italy (Monday, 0ct. 5 at 12.45am) Ireland vs. France (Monday, 0ct. 12 at 12.45am)

Chelsea easily won the league last season, but a stuttering start has seen arguments over handshakes and team doctors used by Jose Mourinho as a way to take the attention off a side looking a year older and low on ideas.

While its rivals have been splashing the cash, the London club has had a relatively quiet summer, with early results an indication of the surgery needed to keep the west Londoners on top.

Few who watched Radamel Falcao last season would argue that Chelsea’s front-line has been strengthened. However, manager Jose Mourinho seems on a mission to re-ignite the former Atletico Madrid striker’s career, and having him as cover for the increasingly hamstrung Diego Costa seems part of his plan. Should Falcao rediscover his Spanish form the club may well be onto something - particularly when you add in the team’s parsimonious defense, which kept seventeen clean sheets last season.

Key Player Eden Hazard The Belgian midfielder was last year’s Player of the Season, and at only 24 is still improving.

Mourinho claims that Hazard is alongside Messi and Ronaldo as one of the top three footballers in the world, and while that might still be all hyperbole at present, this season may catapult the player into that truly world class bracket.

> Manchester City

City has started well, with a 3-0 success over Chelsea an early marker of what it can do when Sergio Aguero, David Silva, Raheem Sterling, and Yaya Toure are on song. Sterling’s £49 mil-

Story by Steven Price Photos courtesy of Getty Images and The Barclays Premier League

Back Into Action The Barclays Premier League gears up for a genuine title race The New Boys > Bournemouth

> Watford

> Manchester United

Not many managers lose their job after winning promotion, but that is what happened to Slavisa Jokanovic. Quique Flores replaced Jokanovic this summer as Watford’s owners – the Pozzo family who also own Italian side Udinese and Spanish side Granada – continued to swap players from club to club whenever they saw it fit. This makes it hard to judge how Watford will perform; they could finish anywhere between rock-bottom and mid-table. Add in a management hierarchy that went through four skippers last season, and stability is unlikely to be the watchword around Vicarage Road.

> Arsenal

> Norwich

The signing of goalkeeper Petr Cech, and the emergence of defensive midfielder Francis Coquelin has helped Arsenal address two of its long-standing Achilles’ heels even if an opening-day embarrassment at home to West Ham played like a well-known Bill Murray comedy.

The team boast an array of offensive options, and Theo Walcott’s recovery from injury gives Arsenal’s attack another dimension. Arsenal finished strongly last season, gaining an automatic Champion’s league qualification spot and retaining the FA Cup, so consistency throughout the season could make the Gooners a good outside bet for the title.

Key Player Alexis Sanchez Sanchez capped an impressive debut season at Arsenal by winning the Copa America with Chile, after scoring the winning penalty in the final against Lionel Messi’s Argentina. The former Barcelona player’s energy helped Arsenal win games when the rest of the team were underperforming, but a long summer of football brings concerns about whether Sanchez can maintain his intense playing style over a likely fifty-plus game season.

Like Eddie Howe, Norwich manager Alex Neil is a rising star in English football. Before his arrival midway through last season, Norwich looked like mid-table also-rans, but an amazing turnaround ended with them winning promotion via the playoffs. A bit light on the goal-scoring front, any team depending on Cameron Jerome and Lewis Grabban for goals will struggle this season.

> Korean Connection

The big Korea news of the summer is the arrival of Son, Heung-min to Tottenham from Bayer Leverkusen, with Korea’s satellite providers furiously rechecking their match schedules for the coming season. Ki Sung-Yeung was Swansea City’s player of the season last time around and with goals added to his game, he could see himself moving to a bigger club in the near future. Yohan Cabaye’s signing for Crystal Palace means that we are unlikely to see too much of Ki’s former FC Seoul teammate Lee Chung-Yong this season. Lee joined Palace last winter but an injury sustained in the Asian Cup meant he only made three appearances and he will struggle to displace Palace’s marquee signing from the center of the pitch.

September 2015 www.groovekorea.com 71

The opening of the season may not have been pretty, but the red side of Manchester will have been buoyed by early victories and Champions League progress. The Old Trafford faithful have had a difficult time since talismanic boss Alex Ferguson retired; however, it has addressed midfield weaknesses by bringing in Morgan Schneiderlin from Southampton and Bastian Schweinsteiger from Bayern Munich. Previous captain of the current world champions, Schweinsteiger won almost every trophy possible while at Bayern Munich, but concerns have yet to be addressed over his fitness. If he can avoid injury then United have arguably turned their

weakest link into their strongest position. Next up will be to address an attack overly-dependent on a possibly waning Rooney.

Key Player Memphis Depay Having joined United over the summer after topping the Dutch scoring charts, a lot is expected of the pacey Depay. He impressed at last summer’s World Cup and is a favourite of manager Louis van Gaal. If he can adapt quickly to England then he could give United the cutting edge in attack that was missing at times last season.

Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)

lion move from Liverpool has got locals salivating over Manchester City’s attacking options, although some concern persists over whether the 20-year-old can handle the pressure of such a price tag. City’s title bid may be let down by their defense, with the previously reliable captain Vincent Kompany having looked error-prone last season, and the £32 million acquisition Eliaquim Mangala already rumored to be worth half that valuation. Unless manager Manuel Pellegrini can fix the central defense, it’ll be a frustrating season for the nouveau riche of Manchester City.

Key Player Yaya Toure The former Barcelona star was a phenomenon two seasons ago as City romped to the title. Last season the tragic death of sibling Ibrahim allied to childish arguments over birthday cake and money left the Ivorian often looking a disinterested figure on the pitch. If Toure can regain his form, then he can orchestrate a City attack capable of destroying any defense in the league.

SPORTS

In 2009, manager Eddie Howe took over Bournemouth when they were at the bottom of the fourth tier of English football. Since then (apart from a short spell in charge of Burnley), he has taken the south coast club on an upwards trajectory all the way to its first ever season in the top flight, playing attractive, attacking football along the way. Its ground might be the smallest in the league by some margin, but the squad is competitive and likely to become many people’s second favorite team this season.

SPORTS Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)

72 www.groovekorea.com September 2015

Football for The Masses Seoul’s newest club offers something different for the fans Story by Liam Ring / photos courtesy of Seoul Eland

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or a city of 20 million people who at least ostensibly love sports, the lack of a realistic alternative to the FC Seoul hegemony seemed indicative of the after-thought the K-League was in danger of becoming as money poured into domestic leagues in other countries. The announcement last year of a second capital club went some way to changing that, and Seoul Eland is certainly looking to bring soccer to the south of the city. With crowds hovering around the 2000 mark at the moment, there is still a long way to go to reach the attendance figures that FC Seoul and Suwon Bluewings attract, but the club has lofty ambitions; from being in the top flight within two seasons to winning the Asian Champions League within ten.

Acutely aware of the sterility that can affect some K-League grounds on match days, there is a determination to focus on bringing the entertainment to all elements of the Seoul Eland experience. Taking inspiration from Major League Soccer and clubs such as Borussia Dortmund in Germany, Seoul is eager to engage with the fans at every given opportunity, giving them a reason to attend games beyond the time between the referee’s first and final whistle. With a growing fan base and a community-based structure that seeks to bring both club and players closer to the fans, the new Seoul side is hoping to make their games more than just a match.

The Pre-Game Experience

Seoul has sought to combat the atmosphere generated by being at the cavernous Olympic Park venue by putting up temporary stands on the running track to bring fans closer to the action. Permanent seating areas are still available for fans behind the goals or on the opposite side line – something important during the downpours typical of the Korean summer. With a cheering section guaranteed to get louder as the popularity of the club grows, there is plenty of noise to keep the players pushing for that final strike. Game over, and there are regular chances for fans to get autographs and talk to the players. It’s another thing that the club believes is important in order to foster better relations with its supporters.

MORE INFO September 9 Seoul Eland FC vs. Daegu September 20 Seoul Eland vs. Sangju Pheonix September 23 Seoul Eland vs. Ansan www.facebook.com/SeoulEland?fref=ts (Korean only) www.seoulelandfc.com

September 2015 www.groovekorea.com 73

The club has lofty ambitions; from being in the top flight within two seasons to winning the Asian Champions League within ten.

The latest K-League outfit is clearly out to put the entertainment back into football. The club plays three home games in September, giving fans plenty of opportunity to check out the Seoul Eland experience. Tickets are available on match days or can be bought via the Seoul Eland website and picked up on the day.

Get to the ground in plenty of time, grab a beer and a bite, and sit back to enjoy Jamsil’s finest.

Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)

In The Stands

For fans of goals, there aren’t many better places to be than at Jamsil this season. The second-highest scorers in the division, Seoul’s focus on attacking football has seen action at both ends of the pitch, with former national team custodian Kim Young-kwang (AKA Glory) seeing plenty of the action. Former Vancouver Whitecap’s manager Martin Rennie was recruited deliberately by club officials based on his MLS team’s swashbuckling nature, and his belief in creative, attacking football means that his side will rarely settle for a safe 1-0 home win. That chase for a second or third goal means few fans leave before the 90 minute mark. Even when losing heavily, such as in the three goal loss to Gangwon, the team still searches for a way back into the match, with the free-scoring Joo Min-kyu spearheading the club’s attack. With its debut season likely to at least bring an end of season promotion play-off position, there is plenty to compete for over the coming months.

SPORTS

With fans encouraged to arrive up to two hours before kick-off, the club is bringing fan engagement to the fore. Mascots outside the ground welcome fans, dance music – a nod to the club’s largely 20 to 30 year-old fan base thumps through the air, staff smile and hand out free water or snacks as they check your tickets. Inside, fans queue to get merchandise signed by the players, browse around the club shop, and stand for poses with players, in front of team murals, and at pitch side. Others are more focused on savoring the culinary delights on offer, with affordable craft beers, pizza, and sandwich pop-ups to keep hunger and thirst satiated until the action starts. The club has worked hard to build a festival atmosphere for its games, attempting to step away from the staid experiences and routine food and drink options that characterise many games in Korea – although there is a convenience store popup if chips and OB is your thing. By making the match experience more attractive, Seoul hopes to create a space where people will get enjoyment from more than just the players and the result.

On The Pitch

LISTINGS

Edited by Sean Choi (sean@groovekorea.com)

EMBASSIES American Embassy (02) 397-4114 • 188 Sejong-daero, Jongno-gu, Seoul Canadian Embassy (02) 3783-6000 • (613) 996-8885 (Emergency Operations Center) Jeongdonggil (Jeong-dong) 21, Jung-gu, Seoul British Embassy (02) 3210-5500 • Sejong-daero 19-gil 24, Jung-gu, Seoul Australian Embassy (02) 2003-0100 • 19th fl, Kyobo bldg., 1 Jongno 1-ga, Jongno-gu, Seoul Philippine Embassy (02) 796-7387~9 • 5-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

Novotel Ambassador Gangnam (02) 567-1101 • 603 Yeoksam 1-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

Seoul Samsung Hospital 1599-3114 • 50 Irwon-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

Grand Hilton Seoul (02) 3216-5656 • 353 Yeonhui-ro, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul

Asan Medical Center 1688-7575 • 88 Olympic-ro 43-gil, Songpa-gu, Seoul

Somerset Palace Seoul (02) 6730-8888 • 85 Susong-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul

Keimyung University Dongsan Medical Center (053) 250-7167 (7177 / 7187) • 56 Dalseong-ro, Jung-gu, Daegu

Park Hyatt Seoul (02) 2016-1234 • 606 Teheran-ro, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Lotte Hotel Busan (051) 810-1000 • 772 Gaya-daero, Busanjin-gu, Busan Park Hyatt Busan (051) 990-1234 • 51, Marine City 1-ro, Haeundae-gu, Busan 612-824, Korea

Airlines Korean Air 1588-2001 Asiana Airlines 1588-8000

Yongsan Intl. School (02) 797-5104 • San 10-213 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Seoul Intl. School (031) 750-1200 • 388-14 Bokjeong-dong, Sujeong-gu, Seongnam, Gyeonggi-do Branksome Hall Asia (02) 6456-8405 • Daejung-eup, Seogipo-si, Jeju Island Daegu Intl. School (053) 980-2100 • 1555 Bongmu-dong, Dong-gu, Daegu

Dulwich College Seoul

Garuda Indonesia (02) 773-2092 • garuda-indonesia.co.kr

Dulwich College Seoul offers an exemplary British-style international education (including IGCSE and IBDP) for over 600 expatriate students aged 2 to 18 from over 40 different countries.

6 Sinbanpo-ro 15-gil, Seocho-gu, Seoul, Korea. www.dulwich-seoul.kr admissions@dulwich-seoul.kr 02-3015-8500

EMERGENCY MEDICAL CENTERS Jeju Air 1599-1500

French Embassy (02) 3149-4300 • 30 Hap-dong, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul

Gangnam St-Mary’s Hospital 1588-1511 • 222 Banpo-daero, Seocho-gu, Seoul

T’way Air 1688-8686

Yonsei Severance Hospital (Sinchon) (02) 2227-7777 • 50 Yonsei-ro, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul

British Airways (02) 774-5511

Seoul National University Hospital 1339 • 28-2 Yeongeon-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul

Delta Airlines (02) 754-1921

Banyan Tree Club & Spa Seoul (02) 2250-8080 • San 5-5, Jangchung-dong 2-ga Jung-gu, Seoul

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS

Lufthansa (02) 2019-0180

Spanish Embassy (02) 794-3581 • 726-52 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

HOTELS & RESORTS

FAMILY & KIDS

Jin Air 1600-6200

Cathay Pacific Airways (02) 311-2700

Emirates Airlines (02) 2022-8400

D ETUR

PO NS MU

NDO

Eton House Prep (02) 749-8011 • 68-3 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul A unique British-style Prep School for children of all nationalities from 2-13 years of age.

A broad, challenging and innovative curriculum preparing pupils for senior school and life beyond. / www.etonhouseprep.com AMUSEMENT PARKS Everland Resort (031) 320-5000 • 310 Jeondae-ri, Pogok-eup, Cheoin-gu, Yongin-si, Gyeonggi-do Lotte World (02) 411-2000 0 • 240 Olympic-ro, Songpa-gu, Seoul Pororo Park (D-Cube city) 1661-6340 • 360-51 Sindorim-dong, Guro-gu, Seoul Children’s Grand Park (zoo) (02) 450-9311 • 216 Neungdong-ro, Gwangjin-gu, Seoul Seoul Zoo (02) 500-7338 • 159-1 Makgye-dong, Gwacheon-si, Gyeonggi-do BOOKSTORES What the Book?

(02) 797-2342 • 176-2, Itaewon 1-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul • whatthebook.com Located in Itaewon, this English bookstore has new books, used books and children’s books.

Kim & Johnson 1566-0549 • B2 fl-1317-20 Seocho-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul

HEALTH ORIENTAL MEDICINE Lee Moon Won Korean Medicine Clinic (02) 511-1079 • 3rd fl., Lee&You bldg. 69-5 Chungdam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Specializes in hair loss and scalp problems and offers comprehensive treatments and services including aesthetic and hair care products.

Soseng Clinic (02) 2253-8051 • 368-90 Sindang 3-dong, Jung-gu, Seoul Yaksan Obesity Clinic (02) 582-4246 • 1364-7, Seocho 2-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul • www.dryaksan.com FITNESS Exxl Fitness Gangnam Finance Center, 737 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul • www.exxl.co.kr Daily Morning Ashtanga Yoga Mysore Classes (English) Jivamukti, Forrest, Universal Yoga (Korean) Apgujeong Rodeo Stn, Exit 4 (02) 515-6011• www.taoyoga.kr

UROLOGY & OB Tower Urology (02) 2277-6699 • 5th fl. 119 Jongno 3-ga, Jongno-gu, Seoul

Animal hospitals Chunghwa Animal Hospital / Korea Animal Transport (02) 792-7602 • 21-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul / www.cwhospital.com

Hair & Joy Served as Art Director at London’s Renowned RUSH SALON and nominated by the Guardian for “Best Hairdresser”

Woori Pet Hospital (02) 393-6675 • 299-1 Youngcheon-dong, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul

MUSEUM & GALLERIES National Museum of Korea (02) 2077-9000 • 168-6 Yongsandong 6-ga, Yongsan-gu, Seoul The NMK offers educational programs on Korean history and culture in English and Korean.

National Palace Museum of Korea (02) 3701-7500 • 12 Hyoja-ro, Jongno-gu, Seoul This museum has a program called Experiencing Royal Culture designed for English teachers to help learn about Joseon royal culture.

Seodaemun Museum of Natural History (02) 330-8899 • 141-52 Yeonhui-dong, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul Don’t know where to take your kids on weekends? This museum exhibits a snapshot of the world and animals.

National Museum of Contemporary Art, Korea (02) 2188-6000 • 313 Gwangmyeong-ro, Gwacheon-si, Gyeonggi-do Leeum Samsung Museum of Art (02) 2014-6901• 747-18 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul 10:30 a.m.-6 p.m. Closed on Mondays, New Year’s Day, Lunar New Year and Chuseok holidays.

Kumho Museum (02) 720-5114 • 78 Sagan-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul 10 a.m.-6 p.m. Closed on Mondays.

Gallery Hyundai (02) 734-6111~3 • 22 Sagan-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul The first specialized art gallery in Korea and accommodates contemporary art.

10 a.m.-6 p.m. Closed on Mondays, New Year’s Day, Lunar New Year and Chuseok holidays.

Plateau (02) 1577-7595 • 50 Taepyung-ro 2-ga, Jung-gu, Seoul 10 a.m.-6 p. m. Closed on Mondays.

National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art, Seoul (MMCA SEOUL) (02) 3701-9500 • 30 Samcheong-ro, Sogyeok-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul Daegu Art Museum (053) 790-3000 • 374 Samdeok-dong, Suseong-gu, Daegu Art space for local culture presenting Daegu’s contemporary fine arts and internationally renowned artists.

Trained at Toni & Guy and Vidal Sassoon Academy in UK Color, Perm, Magic Straight, Treatment and more English Spoken For more info, call Johnny Phone 02.363.4253 Mobile 010.5586.0243

Hair&Joy

Mapo-gu Dong gyo-dong 168-3_ 3F Seven Uniqlo Springs

HonhIk Univ. Stn. Line2 Exit8

www.hairandjoy.com Gangnam Apgujeong Branch

Qunohair

Phone 02.549.0335 www.qunohair.com 10-6, Dosan-daero 45-gil, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

T-M-A-S Total Martial Arts System SPECIALIZING IN TRAINING MARTIAL ARTS FOR EXPAT Established in 2008, we are the first and only professional martial arts studio tailored toward the foreign adult and child community in Korea.

Over the last 8 years we have trained 2000+ expat students from 32 countries in a traditional Korean syllabus.

Our instructors are highly experienced in teaching both adults and children of all ages and levels, from toddler to professional fighter.

All classes are conducted in English by certified Korean Masters!

Total martial arts system www.t-m-a-s.com 02-796-7976​/ 010-8944-2198 totalmartialartssystem@gmail.com TMAS

Hamilton Hotel

Itaewon Main St. Tom N Toms

Gecko’s

Olive Young

For free trail lesson please contact to totalmartialartssystem @gmail.com or 010-8944-2198

From exit 1 of itaewon Station, go straight towards Nosapyeong for 70 meters, We are on the third floor, directly across the street from Tom n Tom’s Coffee.

Maps SEPTEMBER 2015

Itaewon (including Haebangchon and Gyeongnidan) Garosugil l Gangnam Station l Samcheong-dong Seochon l Hongdae l Myeong-dong l Yeonnam-dong

The establishments on our maps are carefully selected and based solely on recommendations from our editors, foodies and readers. Groove strictly separates these pages from commercial advertisements. These maps are only intended to serve the interests and cravings of our readers

Pick up GROOVE at your local

Lee Moon Won Korean Medicine Clinic 3rd Fl., Lee & You Bldg., 69-5 Cheongdam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul / (02) 511-1079 Treatment for hair loss and scalp problems. One-stop services including aesthetic and hair care products.

Starbucks

Over 570 locations throughout Korea

National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art, Grand Hilton Seoul Seoul branch H Samcheongdong / Gyeongbokgung Bukchon Gwanghwamun (Palace) Square Daehakro (Hyehwa-dong) Somerset Palace Seoul Insadong Sinchon (Yonsei Univ. & H Myeong Ewha Womans Univ.)

H dong Dongdaemun Deoksugung Lotte Hotel Seoul Market Sheraton Grande Hongdae (Hongik Univ.)

(Palace) H Walkerhill H Banyan Tree Seoul Esarang N Seoul Tower H Grand Hyatt Seoul Today Dental Clinic Itaewon Dental Lee Moon Won Korean Medicine Conrad Seoul H Olympic Park Clinic 63 City Building Garosugil National Museum COEX H Lotte World H H H H of Korea Sheraton Seoul D Cube Novotel Park Hyatt Seoul City Hotel H The Ambassador JW Marriott Ritz-Carlton Gangnam Grand Intercontinental Seoul Seoul Gangnam Seoul Seoul Parnas Bright Eye Clinic Gangnam Station Seoul Arts Center

Gyeongbokgung (Palace) Gyeongbokgung was the first royal palace built by the Joseon Dynasty in 1395, three years after the dynasty was founded. Gyeongbokgung served as the main palace of the Joseon Dynasty and represented its sovereignty. It is the largest of the Five Grand Palaces, the others being Gyeonghuigung, Deoksugung, Changgyeonggung and Changdeokgung.

Deoksugung (Palace) The changing of the Royal Guard and the patrol ritual take place here. The palace is unique for its modern seal engraving and a Western-style garden and fountain.

N Seoul Tower Formerly known as Namsan Tower. Its main attractions include multicolored digital art projected onto the tower at night, a digital observatory and a roof terrace.

Cheonggyecheon (stream) An 11-kilometer-long modern stream that runs through downtown Seoul, created as part of an urban renewal project. Cheonggyecheon is a restoration of the stream that existed during the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910).

Myeongdong Cathedral Myeongdong Cathedral is the very first Roman Catholic parish church in Korea. It is also the first Gothic building ever built in Korea and was designated as Historic site No. 285 in Korea.

지도상의 업장들은 Groove Korea의 기자, 음식 전문가, 독자들의 객관적인 의견을 반영하여 세심하게 선별된 곳들입니다. 대부분의 업장들은 Groove Korea가 직접 방문한 후 꼼꼼한 평가를 통해 독자들에게 자신있게 추천하는 소위 ‘HOT’ 한 곳들이며, 해당 지역을 연인, 가족 혹은 친구들과 방문할 때 기분좋은 경험을 하실 수 있도록 제작되었습니다. 지도상의 업장들은 매달 업데이트가 되며, 광고와는 무관합니다.

National Museum of Korea The six-story building of the National Museum of Korea is ranked as the sixth-largest museum in the world.

63 City Building The 63 City skyscraper is a Yeouido landmark commanding spectacular views of the city. Standing 249 meters high and comprising 60 floors and three basement levels, 63 City is one of Korea’s tallest and most recognized buildings.

Dongdaemun Market It is Korea’s largest wholesale and retail shopping district featuring 26 shopping malls, 30,000 speciality shops and 50,000 manufacturers. All kinds of goods can be found here including silk and fabric, clothes, shoes and accessories, electronics, leather goods, sporting goods, office supplies, pet products and toys.

Gwanghwamun Square Gwanghwamun Square is divided into six sections.

At its center stands a statue of King Sejong the Great, the fourth and most respected king of the Joseon Dynasty and creator of Hangeul, the Korean alphabet; and a statue of Admiral Yi Sunshin, a naval commander noted for his victories against the Japanese navy during the Japanese invasions of Korea (1592-1598) and a national hero.

Lotte World Opened in 1989, Lotte World is a major recreation National Museum of Modern and complex in downtown Seoul. It consists of Indoor Contemporary Art, Seoul branch Adventure (the world’s largest indoor theme park), Opened in 2013, the MMCA consists of a small number an outdoor theme park called Magic Island, a luxury of separate national art museums focusing on different hotel, the Korean Folk Museum, shopping malls, aspects of post-19th-century art. The Seoul museum department stores, sports facilities and a movie spotlights “cutting-edge and international art.” theater, all in one place.

Today Dental 3 Fl., 630-19 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul 1899-2854 Dental clinic specialized in cosmetic and general dentistry including dental implant and laminate.

Oracle Clinic (Chungdam branch) 333 Bongeunsa-ro, Gangnam-gu, Seoul 1800-7588 Dermatologic and plastic surgery clinic with the largest number of branches in Korea 70+ overseas and domestic.

Esarang Dental Clinic 26-16 Singongdeok-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul (02) 701-2199 Its internationally trained staff welcomes patients with heartfelt smiles.

Dr.Kim’s Skin Laser & Esthetic Clinic (은피부과) 3 Fl., 85-2 Cheongdam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul (02) 546-3322 Offering a comprehensive dermatological services for all ages and skins Gangnam Seoul Bright Eye Clinic 18 & 19 Fl., Mijin Plaza, 390 Gangnam-daero, Gangnam-gu, Seoul / 1588-3882 Experienced staffs with 10.000+ operations of LASIK & LASEK.

See pages 56 and 57 for the special promotions Grand Hyatt Seoul 322 Sowol-ro, Yongsan-gu, Seoul / (02) 797-1234 The Ritz-Carlton Seoul 120 Bongeunsa-ro, Gangnam-gu, Seoul (02) 3451-8000 Conrad Seoul 23-1 Yeouido-dong, Youngdeungpo-gu, Seoul (02) 6137-7000 Park Hyatt Seoul 606 Teheran-ro, Gangnam-gu, Seoul (02) 2016-1234 Sheraton Grande Walkerhill 177 Walkerhill-ro, Gwangjin-gu, Seoul (02) 2022-0000 JW Marriott Seoul 176 Shinbanpo-ro, Seocho-gu, Seoul (02) 6282-6262 Grand Intercontinental Seoul Parnas 521 Teheran-go, Gangnam-gu, Seoul (02) 555-5656 Somerset Palace Seoul 7 Yulgokro 2-gil, Jongro-gu, Seoul (02) 6730-8888 Novotel Ambassador Gangnam 130 Bongeunsa-ro, Gangnam-gu, Seoul (02) 567-1101 Banyan Tree Club & Spa Seoul San 5-5, Jangchung-dong 2-ga Jung-gu, Seoul (02) 2250-8080

R1 Bao Asian A4 (02) 797-4769 • 658 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

A

B

C

1

Cafe / Bakery / DESSERT Hair salon / spa

R10

Hanjin Villa

RESTAURANT

R3 Buddha’s Belly Thai A4 (02) 793-2173 • 673 Itaewon 2-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

PUB / LOUNGE Shopping

R17 R5

L1 Magpie Brewing Microbrewery A3 (02) 742-2849 • 691 Itaewon 2-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

We carry Platinum craft Beer

R4

L6

R4 Burger Mine Burgers A2 070-8263-2034 • 45-9 Yongsan-dong 2-ga, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

Namsan Daerim Apts.

2

C2 The Baker’s Table Bakery Cafe A3 070-7717-3501 • 691 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

R5 Casablanca Moroccan A2 (02) 797-8367 • 44-8 Yongsan-dong 2-ga, Yongsan-gu, Seoul R8

R6 Pizzarium Pizza A5 (02) 312-7580 • 529 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

R18

Hanjin Villa

Hansin Apts.

3

C2 L1 R9

R19

L7

C4

Buy the Way cvs

MG Community Credit Cooperatives

Wellbeing Mart Seoul Digitech High School

IBK R22 L9 L11 L10 R1

R8 HBC Gogitjib Korean bbq A2 (02) 796-5528 • 46-5 Yongsandong 2-ga, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

R23

S1

GS25 cvs R3

4

L6 Bonny’s Pizza & Pub Pub A2 (02) 792 0303 • 44-17 Yongsan-dong 2-ga, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

R15

R24

C3

L7 Maloney’s Pub & Grill Pub b3 (02) 3785-1675 • 225-67 Itaewon 2-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

R13 R12 R6

5

Itaewon Post Office

Pacific Mansion Gold

R9 The Booth Pizza b3 (02) 1544-4723 • 705 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

CU cvs Rose Hill Villa

Itaewon Cheil Church

Itaewon Elementary School

Hyundai Villa

2 Itaewon Villa

1

6

Green Mart

No

ksa

pye

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R19 Kkaolli pochana Thai B3 (070) 8872-1995 • 706 Itaewon 2-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul A hole-in-the-wall Thai restaurant serving real Thai with generous portions at cheap price.

R10 Jacoby’s Burgers Burgers A1 (02) 3785-0433 • 45-6 Yongsan-dong 2-ga, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

R12 Taco Chili Chili Mexican A5 (02) 797-7219 • 527 Itaewon 2-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

R13 Trevia Italian A4 (02) 794-6003• 557 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Their pizzas are Roman-style; the thin, crispy dough comes out of the oven literally smoking hot.

R15 Mi Madre Spanish A4 (02) 790-7875 • 568 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

Stn

.

L9 Craftworks Taphouse Microbrewery A3 (02) 794-2537 • 238 Noksapyeong-daero, Yongsan-gu, Seoul The first expat-owned microbrewery in Korea still offers some of the best brews around. Try out their seasonal tastes in a warm and inviting ambience.

R17 Kusina Filipino A2 (02) 790-1826 • 44-7 Yongsan-dong 2-ga, Yongsan-gu, Seoul R18 Pizzaria Retro Italian B3 (02) 749-8947 • 712 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul L10 The Springs tap house craft beer A4 (02) 795-7732 • 238 Noksapyeong-daero, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

S1 The Nail Bar NAIL SHOP B4 (02) 794-8549 • Manicure, pedicure, tanning and waxing

L11 Pier 39 bar A4 (02) 749-0339 • 658 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

R23 MEATBALLISM Burger C3 (02) 792-5161 • 225-143 Itaewon 2-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

R22 Don Charly MEXICAN A4 (070) 8154-4475 • 250-12 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Authentic Mexican by Mexican chef

L13 UPPER DECK Sports bar B3 (02) 749-1223 • 305-5 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul. American sports bar & Grill

R24 ROBOT kimbap Kimbap A4 (02) 794-9595 • 563 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

C3 Street Churros Dessert Café A4 (02) 792-1489 • 557 Itaewon 2-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

C4 Once Upon A Milkshake Dessert Café A3 (070) 7435-3513 • 638 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

ITAEWON (GYEOngnidan & HAEbangchon)

The establishments on our maps are carefully selected and based solely on recommendations from our editors, foodies and readers.

Groove strictly separates these pages from commercial advertisements. These maps are only intended to serve the interests and cravings of our readers

B

A

Yongsandong Apts.

L1

D

E

Embassy of The Republic of the Philippines

2 1

3

Hangangjin Stn.

R1

1

C

ITAEWON (GYEOngnidan & HAEbangchon)

Itaewon (OVERVIEW)

The establishments on our maps are carefully selected and based solely on recommendations from our editors, foodies and readers.

Groove strictly separates these pages from commercial advertisements. These maps are only intended to serve the interests and cravings of our readers

H

Grand Hyatt Seoul Hotel

R14

Leeum Museum

C3

2

R15 F4

Itaewon Elementary School

2

L9

ITAEWON (main)

S2

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pye 3 ong S

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R2 Linus BBQ SANDWICH B3 (02) 790-2920 • 56-20 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Pulled pork sandwich, Brisket sandwich, coleslaw, mac and cheese

R11 On The Border Mexican D3 (02) 792-0682 www.ontheborder.co.kr Authentic Mexican restaurant with homemade dishes and freshest ingredients with 25 margaritas to choose from.

L3 Reilly’s Taphouse bar C3 (02) 792-6590 • 3F. 123-32 Itaewon 1-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Reilly’s Taphouse boasts some 20 draft beers and is committed to carrying the best craft brews from Korea and around the world.

R7 Joongsim Korean B3 (02) 2235-0707 • 34-39 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

RESTAURANT

We carry Platinum craft Beer

R19

R9 Le Saigon Vietnamese B3 (02) 792-0336 • 74-33 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

F1 What The Book English bookstore B3 (02) 797-4342 • 2F. 176-2 Itaewon 1-dong, Yongsan-gu,Seoul Located in Itaewon, this English bookstore has new books, used books and childrens’ books. www.whatthebook.com

Hair salon / spa

Shopping

L1 Craftworks Taphouse Microbrewery A1 (02) 794-2537 • 238 Noksapyeong-daero, Yongsan-gu, Seoul The first expat-owned microbrewery in Korea still offers some of the best brews around. Try out their seasonal tastes in a warm and inviting ambience.

R1 HBC Gogitjib (Haebangchon branch) A1 Korean bbq (02) 796-5528 • 46-5 Yongsandong 2-ga, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

R4 Vatos Urban Tacos Mexican B3 (02) 797-8226 • 181-8 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul A unique ambience makes this upscale restaurant an ideal place to fill your stomach with authentic favorites.

R16

PUB / LOUNGE

L5

R9

R2 C2

Cheil L7

L8

Cafe / Bakery / DESSERT

IP Boutique Hotel

L3 Hamilton Hotel 2 1 Itaewon Stn. 3 4

F1

F3

Hannam Foreigner’s Apts.

Bokwang Elementary School

L5 Wolfhound Irish pub C3 (02) 749-7971 • 128-6 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul L7 Rocky Mountain Tavern bar D3 010-6654-7202 • 736-12 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

C2 The Lab Store by STREET CHURROS CafE A3 • 34-42 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

R15 Nari Jib Korean bbq D2 (02) 793-4860 • 738-24 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Samgyupsal and Cheonggukjang (pork BBQ and soybean paste pot stew) C3 Richesse Velours Cafe D2 (02) 797-8878 • 741-17 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Try its signature dessert menu item, bottled cupcakes.

S2 One Spa Therapy SPA & massage D2 (02) 749-0409 • 3rd fl., 124-7 Itaewon 1-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul, Spa and massage packages starts at 20,000w.

R16 Gida Sushi Japanese D2 (02) 749-3558 • 683-125 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Sushi bar with reasonable prices.

L8 Yuda Japanese bar D2 (02) 388-5081 • 683-126 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul L9 Muntaro Japanese bar D2 (02) 796-7232 • 683-124 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

F3 High Street Market Grocery shop for imported items D3 (02) 2201-0652 • 727-24 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul One-stop shop for imported groceries and coveted deli products.

L10 Bull & Barrel Sports bar B3 (010) 9982-2423 • 44-82, Itaewon 1-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul A new hybrid bar and restaurant with a huge terrace and roof top and a state-of-the-art Dart Bar to throw at.

F4 Beaker Shopping D2 (070) 4118-5216 • 738-36 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Discover a wide array of fashion items by the best international designers including James Perse, Aspesi, Rag&Bone, Vince, Jack Spade and more.

R19 Left Coast Artisan burgers BURGER C3 (02) 6248-2998 • 131-20 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu. Seoul

R14 Pizzeria D’Buzza Italian E1 (02) 794-9474 • 743-33 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul This trendy joint has a full range of Italian fare. Make sure to make a reservation.

Place to relax and unwind Oriental massage and Spa packages for couples available

R23 Miya Got The Balls Italian A3 (070) 4231-4346 • 549, Itaewon 2-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Korean-American chef from Master Chef Korea serving homemade meatballs, pasta and porchetta.

ONE SPA THERAPY

Foot massage 20,000w Full body massage starts at 30,000w

02-749-0409 (02) 793-2344

This tropical resort-themed lounge is a getaway from bustling city.

Seoul, Yongsan-gu, Itaewon-dong 112-3 Sun-Thu: 4:30 pm – 3 am Fri-Sat: 4:30 pm – 5 am

3rd fl. 124-7 Itaewon 1-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

(3 mins from Itaewon subway stn.)

10am – 5am

ITAEWON (MAIN)

The establishments on our maps are carefully selected and based solely on recommendations from our editors, foodies and readers.

Groove strictly separates these pages from commercial advertisements. These maps are only intended to serve the interests and cravings of our readers

A

B

C

D

E

Cafe / Bakery / DESSERT Hair salon / spa

1

RESTAURANT PUB / LOUNGE Shopping We carry Platinum craft Beer

L6

R9

R7

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L10 L19 L11

R14

R11

H

R16

D’oro Hotel

L5

R6 L17

R10 L9 L8

R5

R22 R2

H

R13

Hamilton Hotel L1

L16

Shinhan Bank

T-M-A-S

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Itaewon Stn.

3

4

R20

Itaewon Fire Station

KB

R17

L13

L18 R21

7-Eleven cvs

IBK

H

ITW Hotel

CU cvs CU cvs

R19

4

R1

R1 Bulldogs HOTDOG D4 (02) 6248-2998 • 131-20 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu. Seoul

R2 HBC Gogitjib (Itaewonbranch) Korean bbq A2 (02) 796-5528 • 118-9 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

L13 Dillinger’s pub B3 (02) 793-7232 • 72-32 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

R19 Marrakech Night Moroccan D4 (02) 795-9441 • 131-3 Itaewon-dong

R10 Maple Tree House Korean bbq C2 (02) 790-7977 • 116-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

L16 Reilly’s Taphouse bar D2 (02) 792-6590 • 3F. 123-32 Itaewon 1-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

R11 Ho Lee Chow Chinese C2 (02) 793-0802 • 119-25 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul L1

L10 All that Jazz Jazz club D2 (02) 795-5701 • 112-4 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

R21 Un Deux Trois French D2 (02) 796-1244 • 123-33 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul An authentic French brasserie where traditions and trends mix, symbolizing a Parisian way of life

R13 My Thai Asian D2 (02) 794-8090 • 123-20 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

L17

R14

L1 Rose & Crown pub A2 (02) 794-2555 • 118-23 Itaewon 1-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Classic British pub specializes in ales and carries 40+ draft and bottled beers R5 Zelen Bulgarian B2 (02) 749-0600 • 116-14 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul R6 Le saint EX French B2 (02) 795-2465 • 119-28 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul L5 Baby Guinness pub B2 (02) 792-2777 • 119-17 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul R7 Pattaya Thai B2 (02) 793-4888 • 116-14 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul L6 Gecko’s Avenue Lounge C2 (02) 790-0540 • 116-6 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

R14 Jonny Dumpling 2 Chinese D2 (02) 790-8839 • 123-5 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

L17 The Glamping Bar&Grill A2 (02) 792-3189 • 171-23 Itaewon-dong L11 Jeon Mandang Korean bar D2 Recreate the feel of outdoor camping (070) 8749-5004 • 118-18 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul and BBQ cuisine in the warm indoors.

L9 Prost pub C2 (02) 796-6854 • 116-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

R18 Don Valley Korean bbq C3 (02) 796-2384 • 127-12 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul R22 Battered Sole Fish & Chips A2 (02) 749-6867• 2 fl., 118-9 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

L8 Glam Lounge C2 (010) 2657-6853 • 116-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul R17 Gecko’s Terrace American C3 (02) 749-9425128-5 • Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul L8

R17

L18 Hollywood Grill Bar&Grill D2 (02) 749-1659 • 123-33 Itaewon 1-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul One of Itaewon’s favorite expat haunts. A real sports bar famed for its burgers and its broad range of pub fare.

L19 The Bungalow Bar D2 (02) 793-2344 • 112-3 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul This tropical resort-themed lounge is a getaway from bustling city.

L19

GArosugil (sinsa-dong)

The establishments on our maps are carefully selected and based solely on recommendations from our editors, foodies and readers.

Groove strictly separates these pages from commercial advertisements. These maps are only intended to serve the interests and cravings of our readers B

A

C

Cafe / Bakery / DESSERT Hair salon / spa

R1 Elbon the table Italian A1 (02) 547-4100 • 530-5 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

L4

RESTAURANT PUB / LOUNGE 1

Shopping

R2 Vatos Urban Tacos Mexican A1 (02) 548-8226 • 532-11 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

CU cvs

We carry Platinum craft Beer R1

Shingu

cvs

C1 La Eskimo Bakery B2 (02) 512-9244 • 546-3 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

Elementary School

7-Eleven

R2

Starbucks

Imagestar

R4 Spain club Spanish A2 (02) 515-1118 • 524-30 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

C11

2

C12 C1

R6 The Original Pancake House Pancake A3 (02) 511-7481 • 523-20 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

C2 R6

C4

R19

Hindol Villa

R7

GS25 cvs

R10 R9 f3

C4 Godiva chocolate B3 (02) 517-3979 • 545-6 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

C8 C9

R11

R9 Sarubia Italian B4 (02) 540-7344 • 542-3 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

f2 f1

R10 Hansung Mungo B4

L5

CU cvs

Japanese Ramyeon (02) 543-7901 • 2F. 542-3 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

L2 7-Eleven cvs

C6

R11 Taco Chili Chili Mexican A4 (02) 545-1705 • 535-9 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

KB

Starbucks R12

5

C2 Ikovox coffee Cafe A3 (02) 545-2010 • 534-10 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul R7 buccella sandwich B3 (02) 517-7339 • 534-22 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

R14

4

C6 Coffee Smith Cafe B5 (02) 3445-3372 • 536-12 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul L2 Wanso Izakaya C4 (02) 3444-2021 • 539-4 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

R4

3

R12 Bibigo Korean B5 (02) 544-7423 • 2F. 537-5 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

IBK

GS25 cvs

R16

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S-oil gas Station

Youngdong Hotel

R19 Ozit Gastro pub B3 • 544-5 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul New addition to Garosugil serving sandwich, burgers and salads with the finest craft beer.

f1 Massimo Dutti Shopping B4 (02) 545-6172 • 541-7 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul f2 8 seconds Shopping B4 (070) 7090-1144 • 535-12 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul C9 Ben’s Cookies Cookies A4 (02) 514-0051 • 518-10 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul f3 Ralph Lauren POLO Shopping B4 • 535-18 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul R14 March Rabbit Veggie C3 (02) 3444-4514 • 560 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul R15 Yum Thai Thai C5 (02) 594-7988 •5-4 Nonhyun-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul R16 Songok Korean b5 (02) 545-3297 • 2 fl.537-7 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Since 1961, it’s been serving one of Korea’s best UDON, SOBA and DONKATSU. Strongly recommended for casual dining.

C12 Mercy Juice JUICE B2 (02) 547-3595 • 551-11 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Cleanses using 100% supernatural cold-pressed juice

C11 Remicone ICECREAM B2 (02) 6207-1029 • 547-12 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Ice cream haven.

L4 Hanchu PUB B1 (02) 541-0969 • 549-9 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Awarded ‘The best crispy fried chicken in Seoul’ by Chowzter. Get a side of pork stuffed and fried chili peppers.

C8 Tokyo Panya Bakery C4 (02) 547-7790 • 543-8 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

L5 De Chou Lounge C4 (02) 514-2014 • B1 fl. 540-19 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Carries unique Korean traditional soju not found in anywhere else.

Pricey but absolutely worth exploring masterpieces by local brewers.

R1 Dos Tacos Mexican B2

R2 Mano di Chef Italian C2

(02) 561-7111 • B1 825-18 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

R3 O’yull Healthy Fusion B3

(02) 554-0511 • 820-9 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

R4 Seoga & Cook Italian C2

(02) 558-5263 • 618-18 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul All menu items are priced at 18,000won

R5 BOBIRED Korean Fusion C2

(02) 3452-1515 • 618-18 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

R6 Norita Garden Italian B3

(02) 596-5258 • 7F 1317-13 Seocho-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul Cream pasta is recommended.

R7 Steakholic Steakhouse C3

(02) 568-8768 • 817-8 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul All-you-can-eat steak for 28,000won

R8 Doni Burger Burger B3

(02) 534-6282 • 1317-31 Seocho-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul Operated by famous comedian Chung Hyung-don

R9 Primo BacioBaci Italian B3

(02) 501-0885 • 816-3 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul (02) 3453-7697 • B3. 821 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Italian restaurant with a stage for live music and private parties

R11 Bonguhwaro Korean BBQ C2

(02) 558-8452 • 619-14 Yeoksam 1-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

R12 Gatten Sushi sushi C3

(02) 2051-1477 • 822-4 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul A Japanese sushi franchise

R13 Dochi Pizzeria Pizza C2

(02) 556-8001 • 620-17 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Neapolitan pizza made in a forno oven

R14 General Banjum Chinese C2

(02) 553-1920 • 619-5 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Try various kinds of dimsum

(02) 539-6650 • 818-8 Yeoksam 1-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Serving 9 different kinds of Big Rock premium beers from Alberta, Canada

R17 Lawry’s The Prime Rib Steak A4

(02) 590-2800 • 3F. 1317-23 Seocho-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul

B

C Hair salon / spa

L2

Kyobo Tower

R19

1

Hollys

R1

R18 Sushino Baek Chef Sushi C2

(02) 565-0802 • 619-5 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

RESTAURANT PUB / LOUNGE

R20

R19 Genroku Udon

Japanese noodles A1 (02) 3481-8555 • 1302-50 Seocho-dong,Seocho-gu, Seoul All-you-can-eat Japanese noodles

Yeoksam Post Office

R26

CGV

R4

R15

R16

R18

R5

R14 R11

2

R20 Elkin the Black Italian B2

(02) 568-6987 • 813 Yeoksam 1-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Try the lunch special of cream sauce with Boston steak pasta at 25,300won, served for two people.

R27 R13

Giordano R24

Lotte Cinema

R21 Rabat Moroccan B3

(02) 561-3665 • B2. 821-1 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Beef tajine with couscous at 26,500won

R25

3

L3

R8 R3

(02) 599-1140 • 1317-14 Seocho-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul Popular Japanese burger franchise comes to Korea

R22 MegaBox R17

R10 R21

9

(02) 566-9079 • 817-35 Yeoksam 1-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Enjoy Italian cuisine with club music

L3 SOS Seafood Pub C3

(02) 508-0458 • 818-11 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Cajun seafood at its finest

R25 Johnny Rockets Burger B3

(02) 2051-1226 • 816-4 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

S1

R12

12 Gangnam Stn.

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8

4

7

R23

Samsung Digital

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L2 Kodachaya Bar B2

R24 Chez Jin Italian C2

SKIN & HAIR CLINIC

Starbucks

(02) 563-7977 • 822-1 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

(02) 3453-6666 • 808-5 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul 7 different tent bars with a unique concept for each. Its motto is ‘be crazy enough to win and too tired to lose’

11

10

S1 Nova Skin Clinic Skin clinic C3

(02) 2055-3610 • B1. 1320-10 Seocho-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul

L1

R6

R22 Mos Burger Burger B3

R23 Ganga Indian A4

R7

R9

Gangnam Stn.

R10 I Have a Dream Italian B3

A

L1 Big Rock Brewery Pub C3

hyeon Stn. Line9. Sinnon

(02) 593-5904 • 1303-35 Seocho-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul Two thumbs up. Fresh ingredients and a reasonable price.

2

3

R15 Big Plato Italian C2

(02) 557-3442 • 619-2 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul A vintage interior and decent prices.

R16 Mies Container Italian C2

(02) 536-5786 • 1316-29 Seocho-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul Salad spaghetti and bulgogi cream cheese pasta are recommended.

R26 Julio Mexican C2

(02) 568-5324 • 619-1 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

R27 Uncle 29 Mexican A2

•1308-16 Seocho-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul

(02) 590-2800

j

3rd floor, GT Tower, 1317-23, Seocho-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul www.lawrys.kr lunch 11:30am-2:30pm Dinner 5:30 pm-9:30pm

GANGNAM STATION

The establishments on our maps are carefully selected and based solely on recommendations from our editors, foodies and readers.

Groove strictly separates these pages from commercial advertisements. These maps are only intended to serve the interests and cravings of our readers

HongDae (HongIK Univ.)

The establishments on our maps are carefully selected and based solely on recommendations from our editors, foodies and readers.

Groove strictly separates these pages from commercial advertisements. These maps are only intended to serve the interests and cravings of our readers

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Hair salon / spa .

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Lotte Cinema S1

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RESTAURANT

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PUB / LOUNGE

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DANCE CLUB

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We carry Platinum craft Beer

KFC

Coffee Bean R4 R1

Seokyo Elementary School

L2

V-HALL

R17

Seokyo Prugio Apts.

C1

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Bobo Hotel

Smoothie King

VELOSO D7

Halla Mansion

D12

R16

Lotte Cinema

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KT&G SangsangMadang

D9 L1

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R11 R8

7-Eleven cvs

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pj

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R12

D2

R13

D5

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Wau Park

D6

PRISM HALL

D11

Hongik University

D3

CLUB GOGOS CLUB TA 打 D10 CLUB EVANS CLUB FF R2

Jungang heights Apts.

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eo

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St 6 n.

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Freebird2 EVANS LOUNGE

R3

R5

C4

Wau Park

R10 R18 C5

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C1 Paul & Paulina Bakery C2 (02) 333-0185 • 344-6 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

C3 Museum café aA Cafe b3 (02) 3143-7312 • 408-11 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

R1 Primo Baciobaci Italian C1 (02) 323-0098 • 346-47 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

C4 Okrumong Cafe b3 (02) 325-4040 • 402-18 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

D1 Club Freebird 2 (Big Bird) Club b3 (02) 335-4576 408-17 Seogyo-dong, mapo-gu, Seoul Club playing live music by local artists and bands facebook.com/clubfreebird2

C2 Peony Cafe b3 (02) 333-5325 • 403-15 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

R10 Pakumori Curry Japanese curry b3 (02) 322-5001 • 411-15 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

D2 Club NB Club / hip-hop C2 • 362-4 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoull

R2 Yoonsi Milbang Korean C3 (02) 3143-4116 • 411-6 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

C5 Kyo bakery Bakery b3 (02) 794-5090 • 317-7 Sangsoo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

D5 Club M2 Club / electronic b2 • 367-11 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

R3 Sunny the Grill Italian b3 (02) 337-8951 • 401-19 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

R11 Hongdae Jopok Dukpoki Korean b3 (02) 337-9933 • 407-21 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

D6 Club Mansion Club / electronic b2 • 368-22 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

R4 La Paella Spanish C1 (02) 322-8870 • 2F. 345-3 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

R12 Aloha Table Hawaiian b2 (02) 324-7718 • 364-14 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

D7 Club Freebird Club / live music b2 • 364-22 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

R5 Hakadabunko Japanese RAMEN c3 (02) 338-5536 • 93-28 Sangsoo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

R13 Agio Italian C2 (02) 322-8133 • 364-6 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

D9 Club DGBD Club / live music b3 • 395-17 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

S1 Hair & Joy Hair Salon C1 (02) 363-4253 • 3F. 168-3 Donggyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

R16 Yeonga Korean BBQ b2 (02) 336-9992 • 366-13 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

D10 Club Gogos Club / rock c3 • 407-8 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

L1 Castle Praha Pub b3 (02) 337-6644 • 395-19 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

R17 Gusto Taco Mexican C2 (02) 3142-8226 • 342-16 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul Mexican traditionalism done right: an efficient balance of flavor and texture.

D11 Club NB2 Club / hip-hop C2 • 361-10 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

R8 No Stress Kitchen Italian b3 (02) 6083-1252 • 404-8 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

L2 Platinum Beer Pub Pub with craft beer C1 (070) 4143-8081• 345-24 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

D12 Club Cocoon Club / hip-hop C2 • 364-26 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

#liveishere Every last Friday on the month!

Get your pass at 20,000 won, Access 10 hottest and funkiest clubs in Hongdae!

SAMCHEONG-DONG

The establishments on our maps are carefully selected and based solely on recommendations from our editors, foodies and readers.

Groove strictly separates these pages from commercial advertisements. These maps are only intended to serve the interests and cravings of our readers

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Silkroad Museum

R12 C1

1

R3 R4

R1

Eros Museum LeeC Gallery

Bansuk Villa

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Café bene National Folklore Museum Samcheong Police Box Jinsun Book Café

R6

C2

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Jeongdok Public Library

CU cvs

R5

Bukchon Art&culture Museum

C4

Hakgojae Gallery

R11

KIEHL’S

C3

Seoul Education Museum

4

R9

Art Sonjae Center R7

R10

National Museum of Contemporary Art, Seoul Branch

R8

Dam Gallery R13

R1

C1 Milk Bakery B1 (02) 735-7111 • 16-2 Palpan-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul

R7

R1 A table French B1 (02) 736-1048 • 104-8 Palpan-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul

R3

R3 Cheongsoojeong 청수정 Korean / Seafood C1 (02) 738-8288 • 88-23 Samcheong-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul R4 Chez simon French C1 (02) 730-1045 • 63-10 Samcheongdong, Jongro-gu, Seoul

C2 Café aA Cafe b3 (02) 722-1211 • 55 Sogyeok-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul

R12

R6 Agio Italian C3 (02) 720-1211 • 23-11 Hwa-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul

C3 Hit The Spot Cafe b3 (02) 739-5100 • 87 Sogyeok-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul

R8 Ramyeon Dangineunnal 라면땡기는날 Korean noodle C4 (02) 733-3330 • 138-21 Hwa-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul

R9 Dal Indian curry C4 (02) 736-4627 • 144-2 Sogyeok-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul R10 Satbyuldang Chicken C4 (070) 7773-4773 • 144-6 Sogyeok-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul Skewered chicken with soy sauce / spicy sauce at 2,000won. Just look for a long waiting line.

R5 The Restaurant French B3 (02) 735-8441 • 59-1 Sogyeok-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul C2

C4 Coffee Bangakgan 커피방앗간 Cafe b3 (02) 732-7656 • 102-1 Hwa-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul

R7 Cheonjin Poja 천진포자 Asian C4 (02) 739-6086 • 148-2 Sogyeok-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul

R5

R11 Samcheonghwa Korean C4 (02) 733-8273 • 112 Sogyeok-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul R12 Flora Pizza C1 (02) 732-7009 • 147-20 Samcheong-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul Forno-ovened pizza R13 Kongji Potji Italian D4 (02) 745-2203 • 34-1 Jae-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul

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7-eleven cvs

L3

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E

Seochon (서촌), located west of the Gyeongbokgung Palace, literally “West village” / “Western village”, is one of the oldest neighborhoods of Seoul, traditionally associated with Joseon era and Korean literature.

Long neglected compared to the wealthier Bukchon (on the other side of the palace), Seochon has reclaimed part of its popularity, particularly following the protection of one of Seoul’s largest clusters of hanok (over 600), and the renovation of landmarks to host cultural venues.

Experience the warm memories of the hidden old alleys of Seochon

1

2

B

L4

Seochon

The establishments on our maps are carefully selected and based solely on recommendations from our editors, foodies and readers.

Groove strictly separates these pages from commercial advertisements. These maps are only intended to serve the interests and cravings of our readers

Starbucks

L8 L7 Church

R1

R4 R3 Hyundai Motors

3

L6

L9

Dunkin Donuts

Paris Baguette

L2

R2

L1

Geumcheongyo Market

Kia Motors

L5

2 CU cvs

1

3 Gyeongbokg

ung Stn. (Line3)

L2 Bob Dylan & The Band Pub C3 (02) 739-6565 • 90 Chebu-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul 8pm - 2am

R1 Chebudong Janchijib (체부동잔치집) Korean D3 (02) 730-5420 • 190 Chebu-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoula Perilla seed noodle, seafood and green onion jeon (pancake) and spicy noodle recommended.

9:30 am – 1 am L1 Seochon Kyedanjib (서촌계단집) Pub C3 (02) 737-8412 • 11-1 Naeja-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul Two thumbs up! The best seafood tent-bar in Seoul. Serves the freshest seafood of the season daily delivered directly from the local fishermen.

R4 JeoNDaegamdaek (전대감댁) Korean C3 (070) 4202-5170 • 184 Chebu-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul Serves unique and various kinds of Makeoli.

Its menu items are perfect for meals as well.

L3 Cheolpannam (철판남) Pub A2 (070) 8776-6001 • 155-2 Philun-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul Teppan Yaki bar with Wagyu (Kobe) beef steak Reasonable steak menu price starting at 15,000 won.

L4 Philun Sanghye (필운상회) Pub A2 Opened by the same owner of Cheolpannam (iron-pan man), serves anju to go with soju.

Customers can order from Cheolpannam menu as well.

L7 Hyoja Barbe (효자바베) Pub B2 (070) 8749-0019 • 210-3 Chebu-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul Pork bbq, chicken and grilled prawns starting at 25,000 won.

L5 Anju Maeul (안주마을)

R2 Tongyoung Sangsungui (통영생선구이) Korean C3 (02) 739-3322 • 20 Naeja-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul Grilled fish and seafood restaurant

R3 Simsanae (심산애) Korean B3 (02) 734-1112 • 205-1 Philun-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul Strongly recommended its Deodeok Makeoli made of mountain herb harvested be the owner a real ginseng digger.

Pub D3 (02) 723-3529 • 1-2 Naej a-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul Cooked octopus and boiled cockles

L6 Passion Potato (열정감자) Pub C3 (070) 7778-4676 • 24 Naeja-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul Fried potatoes with various seasonings and coffee draught beer and citrus draught beer.

L8 Seochon 181 (서촌181) JAPANESE PUB C2 (02) 733-0181 • 181 Chebu-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul Japanese casual pub with many sake menu.

L9 Killi BanBan (킬리뱅뱅) PUB C3 (010) 5737-0852 • 23 Naeja-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul Spanish Hipster pub carrying the finest Platinum beer.

Myeong-dong

The establishments on our maps are carefully selected and based solely on recommendations from our editors, foodies and readers.

Groove strictly separates these pages from commercial advertisements. These maps are only intended to serve the interests and cravings of our readers

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Euljiro 1(il)-ga Stn. 8 7 1 Lotte Hotel

7-Eleven cvs

5 6

KEB

Seoul

i

Mr. Pizza

Myeong-dong Tourist Information Center

Metro Hotel

Skypark Hotel [II]

7-Eleven cvs

Skypark Hotel [Central]

Lotte Duty Free

2

Lotte Avenuel

Lotte Cinema

Seoul YMCA

ABC Mart

Ibis Ambassador Hotel

R4

Hadongkwan

Osulloc Tee house

Seoul Royal Hotel

Starbucks

R2

Myeong-dong Donkatsu

Olive young

Myeong-dong Shinhan Bank Burger King Theater

Lotte Young Plaza

Jhill Hotel

Police Stn.

Nanta Theater

R3

Andong Jjimdak Myeong-dong Catholic church

Olive young

Frisbee

3

Hamheung Myeonok

R1

Chinese Embassy

Myeong-dong Kyoja Seoul lobal Cultural Center

Vips

Kyesung Girls’High School

CROCS

A-land

GS25 cvs

Savoy Hotel

Starbucks

4

NineTree Hotel Shinhan Bank

Quicksilver & Roxi

CGV

The Grand Hotel

Skypark Hotel [III] TOUSlesJOURS

Migliore

R1 Myeongdong Kyoja Korean D3 With more than 40 years of history, Myeongdong Kyoja has been loved by the locals for many years. The restaurant is popular for its Kalguksu, a Korean noodle dish that serves handmade noodles and other ingredients in a bowl of thick chicken broth. The mini dumpling toppings add a zesty touch while the crazy chili kimchi gives you garlic breath that may be hellish for your companion, but well worth it. The pork dumplings are also highly recommended.

R2 Myeongdong Donkatsu Korean B2 Opened in 1983, this restaurant serves delicious donkatsu (Japanese pork cutlet).

The secret is in aging thick slices of seasoned pork fillet (150kg total) for three to four days making the meat tenderer.

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8 7 ng Stn. Myeong-do

R3 Andong Jjimdak Korean D2 Dak means chicken in Korean, and jjim means steamed, stewed or braised in a sauce. Andong Jjimdak, which originated from the city of Andong, is a spicy version that has become enormously popular since late 1990’s. Braised in a sweet and savory braising liquid, the dish gets its spiciness from dried whole red chili peppers and fresh fiery hot green peppers called Cheongyang gochu.

R4 Hadongkwan Korean D2 Opened in 1939, it is the most representative gomtang (traditional Korean soup boiled with beef bone) restaurant in Seoul.

With its long history, Hadongkwan provides an authentic taste of gomtang and it only opens its door until 4:30pm.

R1 Yeonnam Blues Restaurant/bar B4 (02) 325-1478 • 150-6 Donggyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul Wines, cocktails, beer or even soju well go with its menu items.

Groove recommends Halla tonic (Hallasan soju mixed with tonic) and spicy seafood stew.

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R8 Soiyeonnam 소이연남 THAI C2 (02) 323-5130 • 229-67 Yeonnam-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

Yeonnam-dong Community Service Center

R9 Lie Lie Lie Vietnamese C3 (010) 2880-7973 • 227-5 Yeonnam-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul BANH MI (Vietnamese sandwich)

R8 L1

Green House

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L2 R6

R3

홍어랑탁이랑 R4

L3 R5 C3 R7 R9 R2

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C1 Nakrangparang Cafe C4 (02) 6204-7888 • 148-3 Donggyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul Named after the first café in Korea opened in 1931.

Rest your feet at this retrointerior café with a bowl of mango shaved ice.

12 pm – 10 pm.

Closed on Mondays

C2

3

Demyung Vivaldi Park Apts.

Gyeongam little theater Sambuja Squid Bulgogi

Jin House

R1

Yeonnam Police Box

4

C1 C4

C5

R10

R2 Tuk Tuk Noodle Thai Thai D3 070-4407-5130 • 227-37 Yeonnam-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul Thai chef and Thai beer served in Thai interiors and music.

5

L1 Dan Dan Japanese bar C2 (02) 6092-2298 • 228-9 Yeonnam-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul Izakaya serving various menu items at reasonable price starting at 4,000won.

5pm – 3 am. Closed on Tuesdays L2 228-9 Café / bar C2 070-4244-2289 • 228-9 Yeonnam-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul A cozy place to enjoy cocktails and live music.

2pm – 2am R3 Casa di Noa Italian B3 (02) 3142-1108 • 257-8 Yeonnam-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul Homemade Italian cuisine served by an Italian chef owner.

R4 달빛부엌 Moonlight kitchen Asian cuisine C2 (02) 322-3559 • 227-13 Yeonnam-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul Thai, Chinese and Japanese dishes cooked with the freshest from market daily.

5:30 pm – 1:30 am. Closed on Sundays

C5 Travel Maker cafe B4 (02) 338-1545 • 152-7 Donggyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul American breakfast

3 4

홍대최대포

R10 SOUPMAN Restaurant C4 Serving chicken, brocoll, pumpkin, potato, gorgonzola and cacao soups starting from 5,600 won.

R7 Assisi Italian D3 070-4114-0736 • 227-6 Yeonnam-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul Almost as if you’re dining at your friends’. This small but welcoming ambiance is recommended for dining with your friends. / 11:50 am – 11 pm.

Closed on Mondays.

C2 Viva Brasil Brazilian dessert cafe C2 070-8951-8282 • 255-25 Yeonnam-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul A dessert café serving Brazilian fruit bowl, smoothies and cheese breads.

C3 Isim Coffee shop D3 070-4238-5050 • 227-5 Yeonnam-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul Just when you think you know about coffee, the barista owner will extend your knowledge. Just ask. You won’t regret C4 Tomi’s bakery Bakery C4 (02) 333-0608 • 148-4 Donggyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul A local bakery opened by a Japanese patissier Tomigawa. Vietnamese coffee is recommended to go with its breads. / 10 am – 9 pm

Donggyo-dong Samgeori

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L3 Sisili Soju bar D2 (02) 334-8117 • 227-15 Yeonnam-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul Groove editors’ favorite spot.

Seafood grilled or raw, beef grilled or raw and Hallasan soju. Soju lovers’ haven for sleepless nights.

6 pm – 5 am R6 Taiwanese Night Market 대만야시장 Taiwanese restaurant C2 (02) 322-3058 • 227-20 Yeonnam-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul Various Taiwanese dumplings, Paux mama, fried chicken/prawn/port/squid starting at 5,000won. The best spot for late night snacks in the area.

9 am – 2 am R5 Himeji Japanese curry D3 010-4743-1055 • 227-15 Yeonnam-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul Homemade curry at less than 5,500won.

Its menu curry noodle is strongly recommended to first time visitors.

Yeonnam-dong

The establishments on our maps are carefully selected and based solely on recommendations from our editors, foodies and readers.

Groove strictly separates these pages from commercial advertisements. These maps are only intended to serve the interests and cravings of our readers

Copyright (C) 2015 SEOULMETRO. All rights Reserved.

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