2015 November by Groove Korea

Movember Moustaches:

T he Seoul Survivors' Hair-Raising Venture

KOREA â&#x20AC;˘ Issue 109 / November 2015

Seoul Players:

Ten Minute Plays

UFC Big Gun Benson Henderson talks to Groove

in g ht a g i F or f ir fa l! dea

Get cozy with fabulous and hearty Spanish fare from Alma.

Rugby Returns With Hong Kong Sevens

Substandard housing, harsh working conditions and pay disputes: migrant workers fighting for their right s

Editorial

November 2015

s winter settles in over the peninsula, there’s a lot to think about this month. Certainly, as the cold kicks in and we wonder whether to meet up with friends or stay at home for yet another deliciously-cooked meal, some are not so fortunate. Dave Hazzan uncovers the atrocities of unpaid and late wages, dangerous working conditions, tyrannical bosses, and gruelling hours which are common for Korea’s more than half a million migrant workers. There are few people to complain to, and it can be difficult to get help when trouble arises. For those of legal status, the EPS is heavily stacked against them and in favor of their bosses. For those working illegally, it’s a constant game of cat and mouse with Immigration. However, we are a giving community and home (or the peninsula) is certainly where it starts. Celeste Maturen finds out about the expat members at the T-Hope orphanage which sees between 15-20 teachers volunteering their services for free at the Ulsan center. Similarly, Kristen Hendricks share her pain, endurance and anguish in the Ride Against Traffick to raise money for the the Oak Tree Project orphans to provide them with University scholarships and support. The Seoul Survivors are adding some fun into their

C n O Vt Eh R O e

November 2015

Cover illustration by Craig Stuart Cover design by Seong-eun Park The work is known as dirty, dangerous and demeaning, yet the number of migrant workers entering Korea to do it is increasing. This month Dave Hazzan takes an in-depth look into the the work they do and the rights many are fighting for.

charity fundraising this month with hair-raising antics expected in their annual Movember and Shave-AThon. Support a Survivor with a donation and watch the hair come off at Sinbin at the end of the month. It’s also a month of firsts with the UFC championship arriving in town and Groove Korea speaks to fighter Benson Henderson ahead of his big match on November 28. Locally, we keep it MMA with interviews with ROAD FC commentator Daehwan Kim and head of Global Development Officer Lee Li. If looking to get out of town, the Rugby Hong Kong Sevens have their packages available for the Rugby tournament if you didn’t get enough of a fill from the World Cup. If looking for a non-sporting affair, Vivian Chan has a trip to Beijing planned around the narrow streets of the hidden Hutongs. In entertainment, the Soeul Players bring their 10 minute plays to the stage and White Lies will open Pandora’s Box for a weekend in Hongdae. If looking for some comfort and comfort, then do it through your stomach with South American Da Komer and Spanish eatery Alma bringing some warm flavors to your plate. Winter is falling but before the cold sets in, get out and about and enjoy what Korea has to offer. Whether it’s getting involved with the local community, supporting a great cause or simply appreciating your friendship group, have a great November.

ISSUE

Wh at’ s in thi s is sue 04

EDITORIAL

Key People Meet Groove’s editorial team and a few of our talented contributors

What's on Festivals, concerts, happy hours, networking and events for every day of the month

The News Cat Mom’s killer is a fourth grader / School uniform ad raises worries Parents fear posters for slim-fit attire may give teens the wrong idea / Owner puts price on ‘Hunminjeongum’

Community 20

Moustache Magic this Movember The Seoul Survivors share their shaving antics as they raise money in the annual Movember challenge

Bridging Cultures Through Volunteerism Teachers giving children their time and raising cash for T-Hope

www.groovekorea.com November 2015

Is It Really Gluten Free? No bread? No meat? No beer? Hannah Green gets down the Gluten-free basics

A Feast For Knowledge A feast for the eyes and serving a thirst for knowledge with our food museum guide

Jewelry With 21 Grams Of Soul Megan Carapezza looks ahead at her end of year exhibition at COEX next month

Insight 30

Fighting for a Fair Deal Substandard housing, harsh working conditions and pay disputes: migrant workers fighting for their rights

The Yangban Class and the CSAT Exams

FOOD&DRINK 38

Serious Spanish Wining and Dining Await at Alma The city's best new place for paella and tapas.

Building Busan BBQ at Haeundae Smokehouse Southern-style BBQ in South Korea’s second city

Following a Taste for Romance Food Editor Charlotte Hammond's love note to the flavorful city of Seoul

Restaurant buzz: Adjust your November dining plans accordingly November Recipe: Sriracha Pickled Mushrooms, Preserved Lemon Peel, Black Cherry Mostarda Matthew Chung of The BEASTRO Shares Seasonal Recipes

Naughty Toddy Da Korner’s Empanadas: Get ‘em while they’re hot! A corner of Itaewon imbued with South American flavor

109

NO V EMB ER 2015

ISSUE

Wh at’ s in thi s is sue Entertainment 44

Darkness, Mannequins & Funereal The British-based writer recaptures his first memories of Seoul in this haunting new novel

10-Minute Plays Bring Comedy & Drama To The Stage Ten-minute plays return for two weekends in Guro to showcase the best entries from the popular competition

Opening Pandora’s Box Are you ready to open Pandora's Box?

Korindie Brings Korea’s Underground Music to the Web with Photography, Video & On-Demand Concert Audio If you are doing something worthwhile or creative, Douglas Vautour will probably be there to capture it.

www.groovekorea.com November 2015

Part Time Cooks take a mystical trip in “Se0ul Summer” New music video "Seoul Summer" has set a new standard for the already well-established hip-hop group

Old Beijing In The New Era Exploring one of Beijng's lesser known sites

Cathay Pacific HSBC Hong Kong Sevens Prepare for the biggest rugby event in Asia - the Sevens are back

Sports 64

ROAD Gears Up FOR A Big Future The Ultimate Fighting Championship takes its Korean bow

The Fighting Commentator Korea's number one MMA promotion sets its sights on bigger prizes

The Once And Future King Comes To Seoul The Fighting Commentator talks to Groove Korea

Entering The Cage

K-Film: Three By… Adaptation K-Film releases three adaptations guranteed to thrill film enthusiasts of any genre

New Premier 12 Tournament to Ignite Passions in International Baseball Korea's baseball pride goes on the line

Korea Inspired: xpat Filmmaking at BIFF 2015 Kevin Lambert shares his thoughts on why expats should consider filmmaking in Korea

Travel~ 58

Riding Against Traffick – and Against All Odds Kristen Hendricks shares her sweat, tears and joy from the recent RATF Race

The Art Of Eight Limbs A new reason to head to the gym

Winding Down The K-League Season K-League reaches the home strait

Groove listings

Maps

109

NO V EMB ER 2015

Celeste Maturen

is a writer from a real place called Kalamazoo. Her true loves are New York City, fashion, everything Junot Diaz and Barbara Kingsolver and getting lost in new places. She teaches writing at a university in Ulsan and much to her surprise enjoys mountain living, aside from the wild boars. She blogs occasionally at celestematuren.com.

KEY

Dave Hazzan

lives, writes, and drinks in Ilsan. He has written extensively about Korean society and culture for VICE, Xtra, Outpost, Modern Drunkard Magazine, Tablet, and many other fine publications, both in Korea and around the world. Last year he was voted Groove's Writer of the Year. This is his fourth cover story for Groove. Check out his website at www.davehazzan.com and on Twitter at @DaveHazzan.

Charlotte Hammond is

a writer, passionate Seoulite and GROOVE’s Food Editor. She also contributes regularly to Amy Poehler’s Smart Girls, swing dances and dreams about retiring in the south of Italy.

Matthew J Chung,

10 www.groovekorea.com November 2015

author of this month’s recipe, is the executive chef of The Beastro which he co-owns with his sister, Catherine Chung. He currently has three Michelin tires.

From the -30 degree days of Northern Greenland, to +52 degree days of the Middle East, and now in mild and

beautiful Korea, Steve Smith has been an expat for over 12 years. His spare time is dedicated to family, photography, and adventure motorcycling, and loves to share his experiences with friends both new and old. Visit his website www.compassheadingphotography.com

KOREA 5 floor, Shinwoo Bldg. 5-7 Yongsan 3-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul, Korea. th

Contact info (010) 5348-0212 / (02) 6925-5057 Advertising ads@groovekorea.com General inquiries info@groovekorea.com EDITORIAL Di r eC tor

naheen madarbakus naheen@groovekorea.com EDITORIAL

Community Insight FOOD & DRINK ENTERTAINMENT MUSIC TRAVEL SPORTS

naheen madarbakus naheen@groovekorea.com anita mckay anita@groovekorea.com joe mcpherson food@groovekorea.com naheen madarbakus naheen@groovekorea.com chance dorland chancedorland@gmail.com naheen madarbakus naheen@groovekorea.com liam ring liam@groovekorea.com C opy Edi tor s

gil coombe, celeste maturen WRITE RS & C ONTRIB U TORS

dave hazzan, walter stucke , charlotte hammond jordan redmond, andy hume, robert kienzle, yoo jin oh robbie ngyuen , anna desmarais, luke butcher steven price, rob shelley, celeste maturen hannah green, naomi blenkinsop, zanda litvina simon mcenteggart, kevin lambert, giacomo lee, hallie bradley, s. c. clarke, vivian chan, steven waddell kristen Hendricks, steve smith, jo turner, steve sherk mma-in-asia, korea baseball organisation world baseball softball confederation, simon slater getty images, zuffa llc, dieter harms, cathay pacific korea elizabeth hogsten, seoul players, robert michael evans han cinema, seoul survivors, t-hope, megan carapezza rachel mcdonald, craig stuart, sy park, keum-seok kim matthew j chung, joe mcpherson, alison hyejung yoon ART & DESIGN

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CFO steve seung-jin lee MARKETING DIRECTOR peter chong ACCOUNTING yi-seul oh WEB & MOB ILE

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To contribute to Groove Korea, email submissions@groovekorea.com or the appropriate editor. To have Groove Korea delivered to your home or business, email subscribe@groovekorea.com. To contribute to groovekorea, promote an event or share your opinions, please email naheen@groovekorea.com or the appropriate editor. The articles are the sole property of GROOVE MEDIA CO. Ltd. No reproduction is permitted without the express written consent of GROOVE MEDIA CO. Ltd. The opinions expressed in the magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher.

ÂŠ

W hat’ s O N MON

TUE

WED

THU

5 t hu

FRI

5 t hu 5 t hu Seoul Lantern Fes t ival @ Cheonggyecheon / 6-22

Hampyeong Grand Chrysant hemum Fes t ival @ EXPO Park / Oct 23 – Nov 8

Cheongsong Apple Fes t ival @ Cheongsong Theme Park / 6-9

12 t hu

G-STAR 2015 @BEXCO, Busan / 12-15 Global Game Exhibition

12 www.groovekorea.com November 2015

Camerata RCO (Royal Concer tgebouw Orches t ra) @ Goyang Aramnuri Arts Center / 7:30pm

Berlin Ensemble dei Berliner Philarmoniker @Seoul Arts Center / 8pm

27 fri 19 t hu

T he Hunger Games: Mocking jay Par t 2

Hongdae LIVE CLUB day!

5 t hu

SAT

11 SUN

Suncheon Bay Reeds Fes t ival @ Suncheon bay / 6-8

UFC Fight Night 79

@ Olmpic Park Gymnastics Arena Henderson vs Alves Cro Cop vs Hamilton Kim vs Masvidal Choo ‘Akiyama’ vs Mina

N ati onal New s

All stories are culled with consent from Korea JoongAng Daily’s website and edited by Groove Korea for length and clarity. The opinions expressed here do not necessarily represent those of Groove Korea. — Ed.

In association with November 2015 / www.koreajoongangdaily.com

Cat Mom’s killer is

a fourth grader

14 www.groovekorea.com November 2015

9-year-old fourth grader confessed to dropping a brick that killed a 55-year-old cat lover, nicknamed “Cat Mom” by the online community and press, and wounded her friend. But police said the boy and two friends dropped the brick off the roof of an apartment building in Yongin, Gyeonggi, without knowing there were any people on the ground below. Tree branches obscured their view. Police investigating the “Cat Mom” case were without suspects or clues Oct. 15, a week after the fatal Oct. 8 accident, which occurred when the victim and her 29-year old friend were building a makeshift shelter for stray cats outside the apartment building. The Yongin Seobu Police Precinct said Oct. 16 that they secured security video footage showing three elementary school students going up to the roof. Police also found footprints on the roof. “After identifying the suspect and another 11-year-old boy, we visited the suspect’s apartment and confirmed that the suspect’s footprint matches the ones on the roof,” said Choi Gwan-seok, head of the precinct’s criminal department. “The suspect confessed that he threw the brick.” They were not found in the initial investigation because the police concentrated on security camera footage from the side of the apartment where the victims were found. In fact, the three boys went up to the roof of the apartment building using an elevator on the other side. The 9-year-old suspect said they were practicing a law of physics that they learned in school that says objects of different masses fall at the same speed. “For the experiment, the suspect said that he dropped the brick and timed its descent in seconds,” Choi said. “It turned out that the suspect went up to roofs of other apartment buildings three times for the same experiment.”

The view from the rooftop of an apartment building in Yongin, Gyeonggi, where a woman was killed by a thrown brick. Trees obscure the view of the pavement.

The police identified the suspect and one of The police believe the suspect met the two other boys at a playground and brought them the boys at the scene on Oct. 15. The other boy up to the roof. They dropped small stones and was identified on the next day. “We are continuing our investigation because tree branches before the suspect threw the brick 20 centimeters (8 inches) in length and 10 the statements of the two boys are not identical,” said Koh Gi-cheol, criminal division chief centimeters in width, the police said. According to police, the suspect claimed he of the Gyeonggi Provincial Police Agency. “We did not know people were hit by the brick, but found the other boy today and he is believed to the police believe he was aware. The 11-year- have met the two other boys for the first time old who was at the scene told police he heard a on the day of the incident.” After the police made the case public on Oct. shriek and told the suspect about it. The boys saw on TV that the police had 12, it was believed to be a hate crime by a perlaunched an investigation, but they did not tell son who dislikes stray cats and people who try their parents about their involvement, the po- to help them. Neighbors told the police that the victims lice said. The 9-year-old suspect, however, isn’t ex- used to feed stray cats from time to time and pected to be charged. Criminal law stipulates had no problem with residents. But the case that minors under 14 have no criminal respon- started an online debate between cat-lovers and people who dislike stray cats. sibility.

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N ati onal New s

In association with

School uniform ad raises worries Parents fear posters for slim-fit attire may give teens the wrong idea

major school uniform brand has come under fire over its advertisements, which some parents and educators have claimed are potentially damaging to impressionable teens. The advertisements, released by Skoolooks earlier this month, feature JYP Entertainment CEO Park Jin-young and the female idol group TWICE modeling slim-fitting jackets and skirts. The uniform, branded as a “corset jacket” and “shading skirt,” emphasize a thin female silhouette. At the bottom of the poster, the slogan reads, “Let’s get it on with slim fit.” Parents have denounced the advertisement as a sales gimmick that is potentially threatening to the health of adolescents. The brand, however, said that it was merely emphasizing its comfortable and well-fitting school uniform and promised to withdraw the posters, while the Ministry of Health and Welfare announced it would advise Skoolooks to change the content of its advertisements and marketing concept.

School in Uijeongbu, Gyeonggi, added that many students in the normal weight range come by to check their weight, only to then complain that they are fat. “I’m worried that the poster may encourage female students to try to imitate idol stars’ thin physiques. Middle and high schoolers tend to look up to celebrities they admire; the brand appears to be misleading students with a sales gimmick,” Park added. Choi Mi-suk, who leads a parents’ association, said the group had outlined a joint resolution with four major school uniform companies including Skoolooks in April 2010, asking them not to highlight celebrities in their advertising, though so far none had kept their word. Health experts agree that such advertisements could threaten student health. “Many Korean girls and women tend to have distorted body images and believe they’re overweight even though they’re not,” said Kang Jae-heon, a family medicine doctor at Inje University Paik Hospital in Seoul. “Because teenagers are experiencing so many

16 www.groovekorea.com November 2015

Singer Park Jin-young and members of the female idol group TWICE feature in a controversial school uniform ad by Skoolooks.

Still, the advertisements have spread online and the posters have been taped up in middle and high schools as well as school uniform stores, with the reception among students mostly positive. “When I saw the poster, I thought the models’ uniforms looked lovely,” said Ji Seung-yeon, a 16-year-old high school student. “I know the bodies of the models are unrealistic, but I still wanted to take after them because they looked pretty.” Teachers and parents, by contrast, have been critical. “Students cannot go on excessive diets to wear slim-fit uniforms,” said Kim Ji-in, the mother of two teenage daughters. “It’s already worrying that some students skip meals to diet. Advertisements like that should be regulated.” Park You-sun, a nurse at Gumo Middle

physical changes, they’re vulnerable to eating disorders like anorexia and bulimia, osteoporosis, menstrual irregularities and depression if they go on excessive diets,” Kang added. According to the local Health Insurance Review & Assessment Service, the number of female patients who visited the hospital due to eating disorders increased by 22 percent, from 5,064 in 2010, to 6,184 in 2014. In some countries, certain legal moves have prevented underweight models from appearing in mass media or fashion shows. Olivier Veran, a member of the French Socialist Party, spearheaded a law in April making it illegal for agencies to hire excessively thin women as models. By law, anyone who employs underweight models will be fined 75,000 euros ($85,000) or sentenced to up to six months in prison.

Owner puts price on ‘Hunminjeongum’

fter years of obstinately refusing to give up the “Hunminjeongum,” a nationally treasured document describing the Korean alphabet system, its owner finally gave in and decided to sell the centuries’ old document to the local government. His asking price was 100 billion won ($87.2 million). “When I discovered the ‘Hunminjeongum,’ the Cultural Heritage Administration announced that it was valued over 1 trillion won,” said Bae Ik-gi, 52, who resides in Sangju, North Gyeongsang. “I think the government should pay me at least 10 percent [of the estimated amount]: 100 billion won,” the ancient artifact collector continued. “If the country offers me 100 billion won, I’m willing to donate it.” Bae, who in 2008 reported to the state-run Cultural Heritage Administration (CHA) that he had the sacred documents in his possession, was adamant that the country did not have the right to push him to give up his “personal property, which was rightfully claimed.” Bae said he reported his latest decision to the CHA in July but has yet to receive a reply. Written by court scholars during the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910), the “Hunminjeongum” was published in the same year King Sejong (1397-1450) proclaimed the creation of the Hangul, the Korean alphabet system. Roughly translated to “The Proper Sounds for the Instruction of the People,” the book is a guideline for the Hangul and contains two parts: the Yeui section, which explains why the Hangul was created, and the Haerye section, which details its principles, usage and examples. The Yeui is replicated in several other ancient documents, but the Haerye is considered extremely rare. Bae’s document features the Haerye. Another art collector discovered a copy of “Hunminjeongum” in 1940 and kept it in the Kansong Art Museum in Seoul, which he founded. The document was designated National Treasure No. 70 and registered on Unesco’s Memory of the World List. After Bae came into possession of the document, he kept its whereabouts a secret due to pressure from the government. He said he decided to finally give it up because he feared for its condition. His house was partly burned down in a fire in March, during which he said the document had been affected.

C OMMUNI TY Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

Story by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring / Photos courtesy of Seoul Survivors

Moustache Magic

this Movember

Seoul Survivors shave it all off for charity

18 www.groovekorea.com November 2015

he annual Movember-thon is always a memorable event in the Seoul Survivors rugby club calendar. Taking place this year at Sinbin Itaewon on Saturday November 28, the players will participate in an annual shave-off to raise money for the Seondeokwon Girls Orphanage. A staple calendar date for the Survivors for years, this is one of four regular annual charity events for the club. Movember – and its play on the word November - is a well-known annual global tradition where men all around the world grow their facial hair (usually for charity) over the 30 days of the winter month. Usually with sponsors in hand, and for one month only, the friends, partners, or love of your life will grow some shocking, standard or sultry-looking stubble over the course of the four weeks. The players at Seoul Survivors are no exception as the team egg each other on to grow some fairly spectacular facial hair for charity. The month is itchy, scratchy and a little unkempt (perhaps with food from the day before making an appearance somewhere in there…) before the growth culminates in a group shave-off event at Itaewon Sinbin. In exchange for bids, some lucky lasses (or lads)

can get the opportunity to shave off the hair under the hammer (or blade in this case). If donating is where you draw the line, than contributions are accepted and a charity raffle (with exquisite prizes courtesy of Sinbin, Wolfhound, Hidden Cellar, Braai Republic Diner and South Trade) are also up for grabs. Raffle tickets are available on the night for your chance to win a KRW 50,000 Braai voucher, a KRW 30,000 Wolfhound voucher (and bottle of Jameson), or a Sinbin gift voucher, amongst many other prizes. The event promises to be entertaining and result in some great photos and memories of the shave-off itself as well as raising funds for the Seondeokwon Girls Orphanage. Join in the fun or simply donate – and experience some hairy memories in the process. MORE INFO ? Seoul Survivors Rugby Club will be growing moustaches to raise money for a good cause. Watch the Annual Shave Off take place… Sinbin (Itaewon) Saturday, November 28 Your choice of donation or Shave-Off sponsor…

The Seondeokwon Girls Orphanage has been the chosen charity of the Seoul Survivors annual fundraising events since 2010. The rugby team decided to help out the orphanage as they wanted to use their position in the expat community to contribute toward a good cause. The Survivors don’t only fundraise for the charity but have also become friends of the orphanage and have even helped provide for them. One main event, a one-day English Camp presented by the players, is run four times a year to help the girls become more involved in activities and also encourage a day of using English Seondeokwon Girls Orphanage are positive about the connections they have made with the local community and intend to continue building these lasting relationships with both expats and other organizations. Although the Survivors have brought new events and fundraising schemes to the orphanage, this has not been without the usual challenges. The all-girl orphanage was delighted when the players approached them about different community programs; however, the first planned activity, a rugby day, was found to be too physically demanding for the girls and was constrained by these limits. Plans soon changed and other activities have brought the girls to a day out at 63 Building’s aquarium before a delicious dinner and also a BBQ party on a rooftop in Itaewon. More

recently, lunch at TGIF was coupled with a 4D movie before an evening meal to complete the day out. All the volunteers are members of the Seoul Survivors rugby team, who hail from all over the globe. In addition to their daily jobs and their rugby commitments, the players are also intent on building relationships with the girls at Seondeokwon Orphanage. Those Survivors who join the program are asked to make a regular commitment as familiarity and routine for the girls is essential in building ties between the rugby team and the orphanage. With the annual shave-off just weeks away, it’s easy to get involved and watch your favorite Survivor face the blade. Last year’s event raised around KRW 4,000,000, which was all spent on the girls at the orphanage. Although no specific targets have been set this year, all funds will be used by for day activities, lunch and dinner gatherings and could even fund items like computers or tablets for the girls to use on a daily basis. The Seondeokwon Girls Orphanage is grateful to the Seoul Survivors for their constant input, support and participation with the charity and look forward to the annual shave-off this year. Head to Sinbin Itaewon on November 28 to find out more about how to get involved, the charity itself or simply to watch the hair-raising antics that will take place.

Nov 3 ANZA Melbourne Cup Charity Luncheon

11am-4pm / KRW 125,000 – KRW 145,000 Register at membership@anzakorea.com Four Seasons Hotel Seoul, 97 Saemunan-ro, Jongno-gu, Seoul http://www.anzakorea.com

Nov 6-8 Seoul Kimchi Making and Sharing Festival

Free Gwanghwamun Square, City Hall (Seoul Plaza), Sejongno Park and Cheonggye Plaza

Nov 7 (and every Saturday) KISS Salsa Classes

7.30pm-8.30pm (beginner) 8.30pm-9.30pm (intermediate) 10,000 won non-band nights/15,000 won band nights SAMOS, Yonsero-5-dakil 22-3, 3rd floor, Chang Cheondong Sodemun-gu, Seoul

Nov 9 SIWA & Diplomatic Community 53rd Annual International Bazaar 10am-3pm Free Lotte Hotel, Seoul siwapage.com/bazaar

Nov 11 Korean Spirit and Culture

10am-12pm Free Itaewon Global Village Center, 5f Hannam Building, 737-37 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-Gu, Seoul 140-893

Nov 13 Volunteer Activity: Yongsan Center For The Disabled

2pm-4pm Free but sign-up prior to the session http://global.seoul. go.kr/Itaewon Itaewon Global Village Center, 5f Hannam Building, 737-37 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-Gu, Seoul 140-893

Leather Craft Class: Pencil Case Making

1.30pm-3.30pm KRW 11,000 Itaewon Global Village Center, 5f Hannam Building, 737-37 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-Gu, Seoul 140-893

Nov 17 Volunteer Activity: Senior Welfare Center

1pm-2pm Free but sign-up prior to the session http://global.seoul. go.kr/Itaewon Itaewon Global Village Center, 5f Hannam Building, 737-37 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-Gu, Seoul 140-893

November 2015 www.groovekorea.com 19

MORE INFO ? For more information on how to volunteer or participate in the events with the Seondeokwon Girls Orphanage, contact Lee Dae Jin at eico@eicohr.com Volunteering: To find out how to volunteer, send your name, phone number, and age to eico@eicohr.com for updates www.facebook.com/SeoulSurvivors?fref=ts 010-9023-3955

2.30pm / Free De Lambre Coffee Shop Jongno-gu Jongno 2-ga 75-8

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

The Charity: Seondeokwon Girls Orphanage and the Seoul Survivors

Nov 1,15,29 Stitch n Bitch Meet

C OMMUNI TY

The players at Seoul Survivors are no exception as the team egg each other on to grow some fairly spectacular facial hair for charity.

C OMMUNI TY Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

Bridging Cultures Through Volunteerism T-Hope brings teachers closer together at the orphanage of Hope

Story by Celeste Maturen / Photos courtesy of T-Hope

20 www.groovekorea.com November 2015

ifteen years ago, Dan Gauthier moved to Korea to teach English. He was placed at a hagwon in a small village on the outskirts of Ulsan, an industrial city on the southeast shores of the peninsula. Standing just across from his after-school academy, the Ulsan Orphanage housed nearly 100 children, from newborns to 18-year-olds - many of whom loved soccer. In his free time, Dan started impromptu pick-up games on the orphanage lawn. His one-man team eventually grew into a community of volunteers that came to be known as T-Hope; the “T” standing for “teachers” and the latter syllable is shared by many non-profit organizations worldwide owing to its altruistic message - Helping Other People Everywhere. Fast forward to 2015, and under new leadership, with a new name intended to be inclusive of all volunteers, We-Hope is on its way to becoming an official NGO, with plans to expand its volunteerism from Ulsan to the world at large. The organization hit its groove in 2011 with its very first Christmas party at the Ulsan orphanage. Donations and foreign volunteers flooded in from neighboring areas to help wish the children good tidings. Unlike many non-profits in Korea, We-Hope is not religiously affiliated in any way. Gaining NGO status will also allow the organization to stand on its own, without the assistance of a Korean organization to back its events and fundrais-

ing efforts. In years past, We-Hope has partnered with the Ulsan International Volunteer Center (UIVC), but on occasion their visions have clashed, sometimes perpetuating misunderstandings between the foreign and Korean communities in Ulsan. Jazzie Choi, a native Ulsanite, envisions the organization moving forward as a single community, uniting Koreans and foreigners in the name of volunteerism. “In the past, my Korean friends didn’t really seem interested in volunteering with T-Hope,” says Choi. “But, since they found out that we’re becoming an NGO, they’ve been asking me about getting involved.” Choi is a lifelong volunteer, having helped at a home for the blind since before the age of 10, but she doesn’t know many other Koreans in the same boat. “I get a sense that volunteering is very natural for foreigners, but it’s not the same for Koreans.” Choi hopes that more local natives will join We-Hope to experience the fulfilment she has gained through volunteering. With the new demographic of volunteers, We-Hope organizers expect volunteer numbers to surpass the usual 15 to 20 per

We-Hope is on its way to becoming an official NGO, with plans to expand its volunteerism from Ulsan to the world at large.

to expand its efforts to other needy organizations within the community. In addition to the Ulsan Orphanage, We-Hope volunteers work with the Lotus Center, a socializing space for autistic children, and Mandigo is sketching out plans to put volunteers at a center for the blind and perhaps one day even organize an Ulsan Special Olympics.

Nov 19 Korean Kimchi Making (for Charity)

9am-12pm / Free Itaewon Global Village Center, 5f Hannam Building, 737-37 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-Gu, Seoul 140-893

Korean Kimchi Making (for Charity)

9am-12pm Free Itaewon Global Village Center, 5f Hannam Building, 737-37 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-Gu, Seoul 140-893

Nov 20 Korean Drawing Class

10am-12pm KRW 4,000 Itaewon Global Village Center, 5f Hannam Building, 737-37 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-Gu, Seoul 140-893

Afterschool class: Belly Dancing 4pm-5.30pm / KRW 5,000 Itaewon Global Village Center, 5f Hannam Building, 737-37 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-Gu, Seoul 140-893

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

We-Hope organizers expect volunteer numbers to surpass the usual 15 to 20 per monthly visit to the Ulsan orphanage and Lotus Center.

Choi and Mandigo have been patiently waiting for the approval of their application, submitted in May of this year. All necessary paperwork, including a petition with more than 100 signatures from We-Hope volunteers, has been submitted. The duo expect official approval to come any day now, just in time for the first of their major fall fundraising efforts to support Christmas parties for the Ulsan Orphanage and Lotus Center. The organization hosted a tent, selling pulled pork, burgers and pierogies at the World Music Fest in Ulsan in early October and held their own charity bar crawl, known as the Poker Run, a couple of weeks later. For Gauthier, volunteering is just a way of life, but he knew that his organization could offer support to more than just the children. Donating hours of play to the orphanage and organizing fundraising efforts gives young ESL teachers something else to do besides drink—and at the same time enhances their relatively blank resumes. “What’s better: a recommendation from your hagwon owner or a recommendation from the head of a non-profit?” asks Gauthier rhetorically. Mandigo and Choi are hoping, whatever the motivation, that more expats and natives will come out to volunteer and in doing so, likely bridge some of the gaps between the two communities. “After all,” Choi says, “whether or not you notice, you get a lot from the community and you should give back if you have a chance.”

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monthly visit to the Ulsan orphanage and Lotus Center. Nate Mandigo, a permanent resident of Ulsan from Canada, is assuming the reigns of We-Hope along with Jazzie Choi. A former UN employee and community organizer, Mandigo says that becoming a recognized NGO opens doors financially for the organization. As a non-profit, We-Hope can accept donations with transparency, which Mandigo hopes will encourage people to donate more (and more often) as We-Hope wishes

Nov 24 Korean Oriental Therapy Seminar 4.30pm-6pm / Free Itaewon Global Village Center, 5f Hannam Building, 737-37 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-Gu, Seoul 140-893

Nov 24 AMCHAM NovemBEER Networking Night

6.30pm-9pm KRW 65,000 – KRW 75,000 Register at amchamrsvp@amchamkorea.org Grand InterContinental Seoul PARNAS, Table 34, 34th Fl, 521 Teheran-ro, Gangnam-gu, Seoul http://www.amchamkorea.org

Nov 26 Volunteer Activity: Young Nak Aenea’s Home

2pm-4pm Free but sign-up prior to the session http://global.seoul. go.kr/Itaewon Itaewon Global Village Center, 5f Hannam Building, 737-37 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-Gu, Seoul 140-893

Nov 27 Danchong Accessory Making Class 10am-12pm / KRW 15,000 Itaewon Global Village Center, 5f Hannam Building, 737-37 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-Gu, Seoul 140-893

Pottery Making Class: Bucheong Ware

MORE INFO For more information, or to become a volunteer, visit https://www.facebook.com/thopekorea www.wehopekorea.com wehopekorea@gmail.com

Nov 28 Seminar on Korean Law for Foreigners

10am-12pm / Free Itaewon Global Village Center, 5f Hannam Building, 737-37 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-Gu, Seoul 140-893

November 2015 www.groovekorea.com 21

1.30pm-3.30pm / KRW 8,000 Itaewon Global Village Center, 5f Hannam Building, 737-37 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-Gu, Seoul 140-893

Story and photos by Hannah Green

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Is It

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

Really

Gluten Free? Hannah Green talks about the difficulties of being a gluten-free eater on the Galbi-loving peninsula

22 www.groovekorea.com November 2015

or almost five years I was a vegetarian. Well, I was a vegan, then a vegetarian, and then a pescatarian; most often simplified as “vegetarian”. I have always been interested in making conscious health choices and understanding where our food comes from and its effects. Up until eight months ago, my food choices were simply that, choices. However, after a series of simple and outlandishly expensive medical tests last spring, I was diagnosed with celiac disease - an autoimmune disorder triggered by a protein called gluten. Gluten is naturally occurring in wheat, rye, barley, and various other grains, and the only known treatment for celiac disease is to adhere to a strict gluten-free diet. This means no bread, pasta, crackers, cake, pizza crust or breaded anything, and NO BEER. Although celiac disease affects between 0.51% of the world's population, most people still have little or no knowledge of the disease or even what gluten is. My own family still questions what I can and cannot eat. “You can eat cheese, right?”. Simply put, gluten is comprised of two proteins found together in wheat. These proteins

nourish the wheat seeds as embryos which later creates the elasticity in bread products that make them chewy and delicious. These proteins are not considered harmful, except for those who have sensitivities and intolerances to them. Reactions to gluten can begin at any age as our bodies and digestive bacteria change over time, and some people are genetically predisposed to celiac. The biggest difference between having celiac and having an intolerance is intestinal damage; when celiacs consume gluten their body attacks and strips down the small intestines, which is the body's primary source for nutrient absorption. Gluten issues can cause a laundry list of symptoms like chronic headaches, brain fog, fatigue, joint pain, digestive issues, weight gain or loss, and more. If gone undiagnosed, it could lead to more serious concerns, including malnutrition, infertility, arthritis, and depression. The only treatment for celiac disease is a gluten-free diet for life, so keeping a positive attitude and focusing on the endless foods I can eat is key. Since altering my diet, nearly all of my previous ailments have faded away, and that is the best motivation to resist that warm flaky bread I see in the windows of bakeries

on every street corner. In the U.S., where the awareness of gluten sensitivity is higher, there are plenty of safe places to eat, along with endless gluten-free food substitutes stocked in grocery stores. Although eating out was sometimes less convenient, it was never an issue. Fast forward to living in Seoul, South Korea. One would think a country with a traditionally gluten-free history of foods and a minimal amount of grain production would be a food haven for someone like me. This might have been the case if South Korea’s unofficial national cuisine wasn’t fried chicken and beer. Though there are innumerable dishes that are perfectly safe for celiacs, Korea’s focus on westernization is causing a surge in the importation of wheat, and more and more restaurants want to feature international cuisine. Where I live in Haebongchon, it’s challenging to find a traditional Korean restaurant hidden between the pizza and burger joints, and while these establishments do have delicious food, there seems to be a deficit of gluten-free options. Furthermore, as many of us have found out the hard way, asking to customize a menu item here will only be met with an aggressive hand wave and a contemptuous aniyo.

of understanding the local language increases that risk. Though I feel I have found my groove here in Korea, only two days ago I had my most intense gluten reaction since my diagnosis eight months ago. What was the culprit of my pain and suffering? A small unlabeled package of insidious colorful peanut M&M knockoffs from a food stand in the underground. They have a layer of crunchy cookie shell (and were delicious, in case anyone was wondering) but for me caused days of suffering. Every day is a learning experience in this new life I am building with an autoimmune disorder, but aside from occasional slip-ups, I feel 150% better than last year. The inconveniences I face now are completely worth saying farewell to my previous two years of feeling physically and mentally deficient. And, when I feel overwhelmed with restrictions and curse the name of small chocolate candies like they’re conscious beings out to destroy me, I stop and remember the most important silver lining of this situation: I can still drink wine. For more information about Gluten foods, visit http://glutenfreeeasily.com/gluten-free-korea-trip-report-angela-sommers-tutorial-korean-dishes/

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

November 2015 www.groovekorea.com 23

So, how does a celiac survive in an Eastern country with a massive language barrier and an infatuation for Western glutinous foods? It’s not easy, but I’m managing to make it possible with a mix of diligence, craftiness, and a lot of help from locals. I’ve quickly learned some essential Korean vocabulary to convey my needs, including gluten, flour, and allergy. Though I’m not allergic to flour, the understanding of an intolerance is limited. Saying “flour allergy” does the job and is completely understandable when I’m fumbling with my limited Korean. When conversing doesn’t get very far, I have a translation card explaining celiac diet restrictions in detail that I carry around with me almost everywhere. For traveling purposes I have them in six different languages, and anyone with a food restriction can attest to the helpfulness of those little cards available at www.celiactravel.com As most would assume, due to my limited restaurant selections, there’s a great deal of cooking happening in my house. Contrary to what it may feel like, the variety of meals that can be made completely gluten-free is endless and delicious. When people ask me what I can eat, I internally roll my eyes and list all of the amazing fruits, veggies, meats, cheeses, nuts, herbs, and other non-gluten grains that are perfectly safe. Even though wheat has gluten, grains like rice, quinoa, rolled oats, corn, and buckwheat do not contain the protein naturally. In Korea I’ve enjoyed some amazing homecooked meals like shrimp fried rice, chilli and baked potatoes, chicken curry, fried egg hash brown breakfast “sandwiches”, stuffed baked red peppers, and a corn-flour “breaded” chicken parmesan. Plus, many meals end with some

homemade banana blueberry coconut milk ice cream. The most difficult part of being a celiac living anywhere, not just Korea, is making plans with friends to go out to eat or grab something to drink. I’ve often sat and watched my company eat and drink in a place that has nothing safe for me on the menu. Luckily, the people I spend time with are incredibly understanding and let me choose locations based on my needs. In Seoul, and especially here in HBC, there are a plethora of bars with wine and delicious hard cider that I can drink all night (hypothetically speaking of course). Restaurants here can be more accommodating with changing orders or excluding the bread from my plate, and after some time, I’ve built a list of places where I can safely eat. Korean foods like bibimbap, buckwheat noodles, kimbap, and barbeque are also totally on-limits, as long as I leave the side dishes marinated in soy sauce alone. Did I mention one of the main 4 ingredients in soy sauce is wheat? Despite all of the knowledge and careful planning, it is inevitable that I will be “glutened”. Unlabeled or improperly labeled foods can be deceiving, and not having the capability

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This means no bread, pasta, crackers, cake, pizza crust or breaded anything, and NO BEER.

C OMMUNI TY Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

Feast For Knowledge A

With the holiday period soon upon us, here’s some of the finest traditional food museums around the capital to keep our hunger knowledge at bay Story by Naomi Blenkinsop / Photos courtesy of www.englishvisitkorea.or.kr and www.kfr.or.kr

24 www.groovekorea.com November 2015

urkey, mashed potatoes, and cranberry sauce are just a few of the dishes you will see in a typical Thanksgiving or Christmas meal. Many expats in South Korea crave these delicious comfort foods during the holidays and are reminded of special times with friends and family. Although quite different from traditional foods back home, South Korea has its own diverse range of traditional foods and dishes they enjoy not only during holidays but which are prepared as part of everyday life. Every province in South Korea has its own set of traditional foods and their own unique ways of serving them. Traditional cuisine plays a huge role in Korean culture and history which might explain why there are several food museums around the country. South Korea may be small in size but their traditional cuisine—and appetite—is anything but. One food museum is simply not enough to cover the entirety of Korean cuisine, with collections focusing solely on single dishes or on foods from a particular region. However, visit one of your choice to see the dishes on show and you may even be inspired to

make your own Korean side dishes to accompany this year’s Christmas or Thanksgiving meal. The Institute of Traditional Korean Food is located in the artsy, tourist area of Insadong, which is popular for its teahouses and traditional Korean restaurants. The Jisilru Café on the first floor of the museum specializes in rice cakes and serves over 30 different kinds of tea. Learn how to match your rice cake with the correct tea or even enjoy a rice cake dinner, and add a blend of savory and sweet rice cakes to end the meal. If rice cakes aren’t your thing, you can head straight up to the second and third floors where the permanent exhibits display rice cakes that are traditionally eaten on Korean holidays and the utensils used to make them. Another display shows traditional foods used during rituals and the clothes that were worn during these rituals while the rooftop boasts cooking classrooms. Here, instruction on how to make rice cakes, kimchi, and many well-loved Korean main dishes such as bibimbap or japchae are conducted. The museum offers up to 3-month certificate programs to become a Korean cuisine aficionado with some courses specializing in tradi-

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

Institute of Traditional Korean Food Address: 164-2 Waryong-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul Phone number: 02-741-5447 Website: www.kfr.or.kr/eng/index.htm Opening Hours: Monday to Saturday 10pm -5pm / Sunday 12pm to 5pm Admission: adults : KRW 3000 / students: KRW 2,000 Directions: Jongno 3-ga Station (Line 3 and 5, Exit 1) Namdo Traditional Food Museum Adddress: 477, Seoljuk-ro, Buk-gu, Gwangju Hours: 9am – 6pm Admission: Free Website: namdofoodmuseum.go.kr (Korean only) Phone number 062-575-8883 Directions: From Gwanju, take Bus 30, 56 or 57 and get off at Namdo Folk Food Museum or take Bus 07, 15, 26, 29, 38 and get off at Ilgok Sageori Bus Stop Kimchikan Address: 35-4 Insadong-gil, Jongno-gu, Seoul-si Insadong maru Level 4-6 Opening hours: 10am to 6pm Phone number: 02-6002-6456 Website: www.kimchimuseum.co.kr Admission: Adults KRW 5000 won / Children and teens KRW 3,000 won / Children under 6 KRW 2,000 Directions: Subway: Jonggak Subway (Line 1, Exit 3) or Anguk Station (Line 3, Exit 6) Bus: From Jongak Station, take bus 0015, 7022, 7023, 401, 406, 704, 5500, 9400, 9402. From Anguk Station, take bus 1012, 7025, 109, 151, 162, 171, 272, 601, 6011

November 2015 www.groovekorea.com 25

tional wedding and gift foods, royal cuisines, and medicinal foods. Aside from South Korea’s well-loved traditional foods, each region also focuses on its own unique ways of serving them. The Namdo Traditional Food Museum in Gwangju showcases traditional foods from the Namdo region, including charcoal broiled meat, ddeokgalbi and mulberry leaves and fried kelp. There is an experience hall where you can learn how to make these unique dishes and listen to lectures about the foods special to this region. There is also a multimedia exhibit where information about Korean eating habits dating back to the New Stone Age is shared. The museum shop also stocks home brewed liquor made in this region, including Namdo folk wine - a very popular selection for visitors to take home as a souvenir. And of course, no Korean meal would be complete without Kimchi: the one side dish you will see without fail in each and every Korean restaurant. Unsurprisingly, a museum all about kimchi, Kimchikan, is billed as one of the world’s top 11 food museums, which is also located in Insadong. The museum is fully equipped for visitors from all around the world and it is advised to pick up an audio guide in English before heading in to see the exhibits. Prepare to have your mind blown away by all the kimchi knowledge ahead. For gamers, the fourth floor has interactive digital games that teach about the process of making kimchi and for the pickled food fanatic amongst us, the fifth floor not only displays a wide variety of different kinds of kimchi but also all those familiar pickled foods that end up on our table as side dishes. What better way to end your visit to Kimchikan than by making your very own kimchi? On the 6th floor, classes to make your own kimchi are given and you can even take the finished product home with you. However, don’t forget to book a class at least 3 days in advance as a minimum of 5 other people are needed for the class to run. The peninsula’s traditional cuisine is without a doubt one of the most important parts of South Korean culture. It is also one of the only things that remain largely unchanged in a country where everything seems to be changing at the speed of light. Learn more about South Korea’s traditional foods at one of their fascinating food museums and who knows, you may be inspired to add some of these traditional dishes to your own Thanksgiving or Christmas meal this festive season.

You may be inspired to add some of these traditional dishes to your own Thanksgiving or Christmas meal this festive season.

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classes to make your own kimchi are given and you can even take the finished product home with you

C OMMUNITY Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

Jewelry

With 21 Grams Of Soul

26 www.groovekorea.com November 2015

Megan Carapezza looks ahead to her exhibition, graduation and capturing a brand new art.

Megan does not have a particular favourite artist as she thinks that it is possible to find uniqueness in everything that is observable. She believes that inspiration can be found everywhere around us. Megan praises the countless art galleries here in Seoul that have helped her generate distinctive ideas for her jewelry and other artworks. She says, she believes the market is growing in Seoul which allows for artists to be supported in their work. However, it’s not only art galleries and world-renowned artists that can inspire and lead to something extraordinary and beautifully haunting. Megan has found her motivation in nature and seasons. The first time she saw cherry blossoms was when she arrived to Seoul five years ago and the artist thought that the blossoming trees were one of the most beautiful natural miracles that she had ever seen. Megan tried to think of a way to preserve the beauty of these fragile and lingering blossoms and decided to collect the fallen blossoms and bring them home. After putting them in between paper sheets to dry them, she failed to see how the newly dried collection resembled the lively scenery that she had seen before. This led her to maintain the beauty of the blos-

soms by making a necklace, which took her a month to sketch and design. Megan admits that the most difficult part was understanding how an object could contain attributes of something that is alive. Her interest in combining unusual materials and elements played a big role in creating a piece that mirrors the uniqueness of her creations and incorporating the power of nature. The designer’s eye for exceptional concepts and courage to experiment with materials and ideas might not seem obvious to an average jewellery lover but she has received praise and recognition from a Japanese art museum - her original cherry blossom necklace will be on display at the 2015 Itami International Jewellery Exhibition at The Museum of Arts and Crafts ITAMI in Hyogo, Japan. Megan comes from Korea but grew up in the US. She decided to move to Seoul in 2011 to pursue her deep interest in art and design. “In school I was never really interested in engineering or natural sciences. My passion was always in design. I see art everywhere. It’s not just jewelry that has design, it’s also a chair or a table. Design is in architecture, it is in jewelry.” After graduating from high school, Megan enrolled at the Rochester Institute of Technology’s School for American Crafts in New York where she obtained a Bachelor’s Degree of Fine Arts with an emphasis on Metalsmithing and Jewelry Design and a minor in Communications. After graduation, the designer worked as a jeweler, designer and quality controller at Jared Galleria of Jewelry and also at the Barbara Heinrich Studio LLC in New York. There, Megan reveals with a secretive grimace on her face, she gained the experience that helped her grow and develop her character and designing style into what she has achieved today. Additionally, she was the recipient of the Korean Government Student Program (KGSP) Scholarship, which allows her to complete her current Master’s degree in Seoul. Megan is now in her final year at Kookmin University studying Fine Arts and is working on her thesis while also preparing for the final design exhibition. Every year, Kookmin University, students and professors have an opportunity to participate in an exhibition to display their jewelry based on a particular theme. This year’s event takes place at the COEX Grand Exhibition Hall in December with all participants work-

ing around the main concepts of seasons and patterns. Called The Alchemist, jewelry and tableware representing spring, summer, autumn and winter. Each season has a different theme and Megan has been given winter and pattern to characterize the season. Megan has chosen to represent winter in her work and plans to embody winter in a tea drinking habit. “All the other participants are planning to exhibit jewelry. I am the only one who decided to make something different. My plan is to exhibit a cup with a cozy. I guess it will let me stand out from the crowd.” The cup that’s inside the cozy doesn’t have a stable bottom which prevents it from fulfilling its functions without adequate support. Megan aims to portray how the cozy does not have a value unless it can keep the cup - and the tea inside - warm. Getting her inspiration from observing relationships between people, Megan explains, “We all are dependent from each other and we want to receive some support. Sometimes without each other we are nothing. That’s what the cup and the cozy represent.” Megan is planning to exhibit two Cozies. One will be white in color and the other, in gray. Both representing winter, snow and the sometimes dark ambience, the cozies will be made from hard woollen balls making the pattern look soft and light as snow, but at the same time, as an indestructible ice ball, aptly named “Symbosis”. Moreover, Megan is also working on her thesis that partly focuses on sake drinking culture and its specific techniques. To demonstrate, she picks up a tea cup gently and strokes the bottom of it saying, “When you drink sake, you are supposed to touch the cup’s bottom and the side. The bottom is flat without any pattern that would make the person connect to the cup. I decided to change it.” The artist chose to add bumps to the bottom of her cup, enabling the consumer to feel the shape. The concept is to make the person sense a more intimate connection to the cup and the sake drinking process itself, Megan explains. Megan’s general philosophy is to show how the small and simple things can be turned into art that can be admired by everyone; Art and jewelry that make the viewer think and appreciate what we have around us and what is important in our lives. As she describes, anything can be jewelry with 21 grams of soul.

MORE INFO Craft Trend Fair is the only Korean fair that specializes in craft. The Fair is dedicated to jewelry, pottery, metal, textile, wood and various other areas of craftsmanship. The fair is aiming to introduce craft as an everyday tool, object and something that everybody can enjoy in their daily activities. December 17-20, 2015 COEX Hall A, 58, Teheran-ro 87-gil, Gangnam-gu, Seoul www.kcdf.kr/craftfair2015 / www.megancarapezza.com www.facebook.com/CoexKorea craftfair@kcdf.kr or carapezza@gmail.com Free

Story by Zanda Litvina / photos by Megan Carapezza

he metallic, zigzag-shaped earrings hanging from the ears of this passionate and youthfully extravagant lady are seemingly making the dim room much more colorful. She has three massive rings on her fingers that somewhat resemble a tendril that is wrapped around a slim dowel. She says with a smile on her face: “This is probably the most jewelry you will ever see me wearing. I am actually a really simple person. This seemed like a good occasion.” Megan Carapezza is an aspiring jewelry designer and artist. She believes that her pieces tell stories taken from our daily lives and surroundings. Megan’s ambition to capture beauty and preserve it has led to numerous successful artworks that will be displayed in exhibitions here in Asia. Additionally, Megan’s philosophical view on art and the world will be observable at Seoul’s COEX Exhibition Hall this December 17- 20.

I N S I G H T Edited by Anita McKay (anita@groovekorea.com)

28 www.groovekorea.com November 2015

Fighting for a Fair Deal Substandard housing, harsh working conditions and pay disputes: migrant workers fighting for their rights

Story by Dave Hazzan / Translation by Sy Park Photos by Steve Smith. Additional photos by Jo Turner Illustration by Craig Stuart

Rath Mony Muth, ex-migrant worker

Poor working condition

Unpaid and late wages, dangerous working conditions, tyrannical bosses, and gruelling hours are common for Korea’s more than half million migrant workers. There are few people to complain to, and it can be difficult to get help when trouble arises. For those with legal status, the EPS is heavily stacked against them and in favor of their bosses. For those working illegally, it’s a constant game of cat and mouse with Immigration. At People of Earth’s Station, an NGO in Ansan, dozens of Cambodian workers come to get help. It was from here that Amnesty International got the raw material for its 2014 report “Bitter Harvest,” an 87-page takedown of the brutal conditions, forced labor, and trafficking faced by migrant laborers on Korea’s farms. In a press release, Norma Kang Muico, an Asia-Pacific Migrant Rights Researcher at Amnesty International, described the exploitation of migrant farm workers in South Korea as a “stain on the country” created by the authorities, who have allowed trafficking for exploitation and forced labour “to flourish.” Amnesty detailed beatings, verbal abuse, unsafe conditions (such as having to spray pesticides without protective equipment), cramped and unpleasant quarters, broken contracts, bad food and filthy water, and above all else, extremely long working hours without breaks. On the Saturday we visited the NGO, Va Savy, 26, and Chhuet Samnang, 24, both from Cambodia, were there to discuss filing a claim against their boss, whom they say mistreats them. “I have to work Saturdays,” Savy says. “It’s supposed to be a day off, but I have to do the morning shift before I get the rest of the day [off].” Sundays are regular, full workdays. They say it is “very hard” work, emphasizing the word “very.” From 6:00am to 6:00pm they work, with a lunch hour that is often cut short. “The contract says 226 hours per month, but we are working up to 310 hours,” Savy says. “When I’m working slowly, [my boss] says some things to me that are no good,” Savy says. She says her boss calls her an “idiot,” “bitch,” and other Korean swear words. “Verbal abuse is often.” They are paid 1.3 million won per month for their labor, but during the winter this is usu-

November 2015 www.groovekorea.com 29

I often had a nosebleed when I was at work. There was a large possibility of getting crushed by the heavy machines.

recalls. “He really suffered from severe acid burns. He really, really suffered for about 10 days.” The worker walked to the hospital himself, was treated, and was back at work a few days later. According to Rath, he was never compensated.

Edited by Anita McKay (anita@groovekorea.com)

After his shift ended, he would shower, eat dinner, study Korean, and then go to bed at 1:30am, only to wake up in six hours for work. He did this six days a week, with Sundays off. Rath had trouble describing exactly what his factory made — it was unclear even to him — but it seemed to involve chemicals and the recycling of aluminum cans. He described the work as “very dangerous.” “I often had a nosebleed when I was at work. There was a large possibility of getting crushed by the heavy machines,” he says. Rath and the people he worked with were not given any helmets or masks. Once a year, they would buy their own boots. They lived in tiny dorms above the factories, which were unheated in the winter. He didn’t mind the tight quarters, but remembers that it was “really cold.” Apart from the nosebleeds, Rath would get minor cuts and scratches from the machinery. But he saw others suffer much worse. “One of my fellow workers was fixing a machine up high, and he fell into a drum of acid,” Rath

I N S I G H T

ath Mony Muth, 28, is from the Cambodian countryside. Ten years ago he came to Ansan, just south of Seoul, to work in a factory. His parents took out a 5 million won loan to buy a plane ticket, pay the immigration fees, and secure the Korean lessons necessary to qualify Rath for Korea’s Employment Permit System (EPS) — the visa scheme under which many migrant workers come to South Korea. His days at the factory in Ansan were straight out of Charles Dickens. “I would usually wake up at 7:30 in the morning and get to work by 8,” Rath says. “I’d start work right away and have lunch time from 11:30am to 12:30pm. Then I would work again until 11pm or midnight. If there was a lot of work, 12pm. If [there was less work], then 11pm.” There was no break after lunch, which meant 10 to 11 hours without a meal. If he got hungry, he would pick at the pieces of fruit or sweet potatoes that he hid in his pockets from lunch.

30 www.groovekorea.com November 2015

Edited by Anita McKay (anita@groovekorea.com)

I N S I G H T

There is lots of substandard housing. No toilets, or no partitions between the men and women. Bosses will often just come in at night, to tell them to work harder or work more. Choi Jeong-mon, CEO of People’s Earth Station

ally cut to 1 million won as there is less work. Savy and Samnang want to change jobs, but their boss refuses to give them the permission they need under the EPS. “When I ask if I can go, he says, ‘No, you cannot do it,’” Savy says. Instead their boss tells them to “Go to Cambodia!” Choi Jong-man, 35, is the CEO of People of Earth’s Station. They provide education and training for migrant workers, including the dozen or so Cambodians we met when we visited. He works closely with the Association for Khmer Workers’ Rights, who run two shelters — one for men and one for women — a few doors down. “There are two kinds of people staying in the shelter,” Choi says. “Forty percent of them have been through some kind of workplace abuse, so they stay there for a short time. The other 60 percent are given three months to find a job at other workplaces, after they quit a job or are fired.” Choi says people usually stay at the shelter for an average of two months, though some have stayed up to six. “There are a few cases of people running away from abuse,” he says. “But most of them are just collecting files for their cases, and they stay there for the process.” The biggest problem, Choi says, is unpaid wages. He estimates that about 70 percent of those who come to the shelter have not been paid a basic salary with overtime. Other prob-

lems include the verbal, physical, and sexual abuse of workers. Sometimes they are forced to hand over their passports or other personal property, and there have been accidents. “They live in a dorm beside the workplace,” Choi says. “There is lots of substandard housing. No toilets, or no partitions between the men and women. Bosses will often just come in at night, to tell them to work harder or work more.” They can sometimes enter the women’s dorms drunk, and sexually harass the workers. The minimum wage this year is just under 1.1 million won for 226 hours per month, Choi says, “but actually they work almost 300 hours per month and are not paid overtime.” During the winter months, they’ll often be paid less or nothing at all if they’re not illegally subcontracted to work on southern farms. They will also often take out loans to pay for the tickets to Korea and the Korean lessons they need to qualify for the EPS. “Since they live in a dorm and the factory provides the food, they can live on [the salary], but it’s really, really hard to save out of it,” Choi says.

Labor rights: a two-tiered system?

The EPS, also called the E-9 visa, is valid for a maximum period of 4 years and 10 months. (It takes five years to qualify for permanent

residency.) In 2014, there were 270, 563 E-9 visa holders, representing just under half of the unskilled labor force, with the largest share coming from Vietnam, followed by Indonesia, Cambodia and the Philippines, according to statistics from the Ministry of Justice. The EPS has been in place since 2004, when it replaced the old labor apprenticeship program, which was also highly exploitative. Though the EPS technically protects workers, advocates say these protections are not serious and are out of reach for most laborers. The Labor Human Rights Center (LHRC), formerly The Association of Migrant Human Rights, is located in a small office near Sookdae Station. Its shelves are stacked with Mongolian handicrafts and there is a basket of free condoms by the front door. A small woman, Seok Won-jeong, 57, runs the center. “I’ve been doing legal counselling since 1991,” Seok says (though she is not an actual lawyer). “I’ve been working with foreign workers here since 2000.” She says the difference between her and the lawyers is empathy. “I do care,” she says “and I do actual work to…get the money the laborers haven’t received.” According to their literature, the LHRC “deals with cases of delayed payment, industrial disasters, international marriage, passport problems, problems regarding return to home country, and other civil and criminal cases.” They also pursue education-culture activities, research and publishing, and they focus on getting the children of undocumented migrants registered for school. She says she is about to break the story of an underground sweatshop where the workers receive no rights or care. The biggest problem Seok encounters is that migrants need permission, or a letter of release, to change jobs from their employers. The most common reason laborers request a letter of release is because the boss has abused the laborer’s rights, but Seok says this is difficult to prove.

Name of the report

220,319 in 2010 270,563 in 2014

Country of origin of E-9 visa holders

in 2014 Vietnam

49,404

44,425 m / 4,979 f

Indonesia 33,283

31,777 m / 1,506 f

Country of origin of E-9 visa holders in 2010 Vietnam 20,319 18,253 m / 2,066 f Philippines 11,093 10,000 m / 1,093 f Thailand 9,406 8,339 m / 1,067 f Indonesia 7,720 7,337 m / 383 f Sri Lanka 7,230 7,095 m / 135 f

Number of people considered illegal in 2014 by expired visa type 52,760 E-9

Cambodia 31,056

Edited by Anita McKay (anita@groovekorea.com)

The number of E-9 visa holders is

I N S I G H T

Korea Immigration Service Statistics 2010 (2014)

Publishing date July 20, 2011 (June 30, 2015) Publishing organization Korea Immigration Service under Ministry of Justice

25,382 m / 5,674 f

Philippines 23,948 20,438 m

/ 3,510 f

Sri Lanka 23,618 23,278 m / 340 f

Number of people considered illegal

168,515 in 2010 208,778 in 2014

non-professional employment visa

short-term visa

15,899 B-2

Tourist/Transit visa

7,838 F-2

Long-Term Resident

Of these, how many had E-9 visas?

42,773 in 2010 52,760 in 2014

takes up 25.3%, the largest portion, for illegal stays

November 2015 www.groovekorea.com 31

46,117 B-1 Visa Exempt 45,746 C-3

I N S I G H T Edited by Anita McKay (anita@groovekorea.com)

“For 10 years there has been no protection for the laborers,” Seok explains. “It has been almost impossible for them to use [EPS protections]. They need actual proof [that] they have been injured severely, which is almost impossible for them [to get]. They need to prove they are severely injured or [have] serious problems in their workplace to get their release forms from the employer.” Under EPS, you can only change jobs a maximum of four times. “The government wants to control the supply [of workers] from abroad, not [protect] their rights,” she says. There is also the problem of contract length. Commonly, migrant workers sign the contract back in their home countries, without knowing where they are going to work. “The contract is commonly for three years, so the owners of the factories and farms think the [workers belong to them] no matter what,” Seok says. “So the labor groups are arguing for a reduction of the length of the contract, like one year, so they can finish up their contracts and move along.” This virtual indentured servitude is usually a one-way street. Seok tells the story of a Mongolian construction worker who was abandoned by his workplace after an accident. “There was one guy who was [sawing wood] and he injured his eye and almost lost his sight,” she says. “At first, the supervisor took him to the hospital and paid for it. But then the laborer immediately lost contact with him.” He never heard from the man again. “So he was forced to pay the rest of it. He was abandoned.” Seok explains that both illegal and legal workers are entitled to the same workplace protections, but illegal workers rarely get any protection at all. And those who have legal status face bureaucratic hurdles thrown up by the EPS when they try to use these protections. “The [EPS] does not back up the welfare of the laborers. It just goes for the factory owners. It is encouraging the owners to cheat,” she says. In terms of changing the system, Seok’s request is simple: she would like migrant workers treated the same as Koreans. No more, no less.

32 www.groovekorea.com November 2015

Fear of being caught

Gupta* and Sharma* are illegal migrant workers. They have long overstayed the tourist visas that first got them into the country. “Our boss is fair with us,” Gupta says. “Compared to India, the pay is fair.” There is, however, one problem they cannot avoid. “We want to see Korea but we can’t. The only place we can go is to some mart to buy groceries,” Sharma says. Since they have no visas they are forever looking over their shoulders for immigration officers. “For now it’s OK, [there is] not much fear,” Sharma says. “We stay in [our area], and stay

away from places where there are lots of immigration officers.” But he knows that at any moment, they could be asked for papers, cuffed, put in prison, and deported. “There is no solution,” Sharma says. Roughly half of the laborers who are not on the EPS are on other visas — student, marriage, or otherwise — or are illegal. Last year there were just under 209,000 illegal migrant workers in Korea, with expired E-9 visa holders accounting for just over 25 percent, according to government statistics. Unlike most other countries, there is no route to residency for the long-term undocumented migrant. But they come anyway, and for some, life is pretty good, or at least good enough. Everything, the Indian workers are keen to stress, is “fair.” Patel* explains how he has no real Korean friends, only Indian friends. “And a Vietnamese girlfriend!” his friends pipe up, in Hindi, Punjabi, and English. They all roar with laughter as Patel blushes. When I ask him if he really has a Vietnamese girlfriend, he nods shyly. “Right now I’m not employed. I’m looking for a job,” he says. “I will do anything.” He says he needs to only save for one more year before he has enough money to return home. He is always afraid Immigration will catch him. He says that he is worried about the visa situation, but overall things “are OK.”

Small problems for good pay

The Indian workers I met are happy, if insecure in their employment. At Hyehwa Filipino market, most people insist things are good, and they are happy to be in Korea. On the same stifling Sunday afternoon that I met with the Indian workers, I visited the packed Hyehwa Catholic Church. It’s 4:00pm, and Father Alfredo Africa is winding up the service. In a mix of Tagalog and English, he delivers the final announcements. “Please,” he implores, “wear very nice clothes to church.” He specifically asks for shirts to descend “no more than two inches” from the neckline, and that “skirts should reach the knee.” He then dismisses everyone from mass, and the parishioners stream out into the afternoon sun, to shop and eat in the Filipino market. “Sunday after Sunday you can see a lot of people flocking to the church,” Fr. Africa says in an interview later. “And afterward they can eat the Filipino food and go around to the different stalls outside the church and so on. And have some clean fun.” Manning a stall at the market is Monina Tangan, 41, from the north of Luzon. She works full-time as a nanny for a German-Italian couple. “I am treated very well,” Tangan says. “I feel like I’m a member of the family.” This is the third family she’s worked for in the country. “I was able to adjust,” she says. “I could send my kids to a good school. But being away from the family, the homesickness

kills me. Every day.” Jumbo Madrigal, 37, sits outside a Filipino food stall, and explains his work in an Incheon furniture factory. “It’s difficult, working in a factory,” he says. “There’s dust, it’s heavy.” But he says his pay is fair and on-time, and he wears a mask for the dust. “It’s very hard to find work in our country, even if you graduate from university,” Madrigal says. So he came here. “Korea has the highest salary, especially in Asia.” Outside the church, a dozen or so Filipinos sit by the bicycle racks, waiting for mass to finish. Lloyd Gabriel, 35, talks about his simple, eight-hour, Monday-to-Friday shift at a plastic moulding company. “Sometimes [my coworkers] don’t understand me,” he says, shrugging. “But my work is very good. There are little problems but that’s OK.” He has a wife and two children in the Philippines, and he misses them dearly. But he likes working in Korea, and in any case, he needs the money. “In the Philippines it’s hard to find work,” he says. “It’s very good to stay here.”

Organizing for change

For those who don’t think “it’s very good to stay here,” unionization is now becoming an option. A major victory for migrant workers’ rights was won on June 25, when the Supreme Court ruled that undocumented migrant workers had the right to organize with the Migrants’ Trade Union (MTU), which represents over 1,000 migrant workers and is under the umbrella of the Korean Confederation of Trade Unions (KCTU). However, when the MTU filed their paperwork to be registered as a legal union, it was sent back to them on July 2, with the claim that their demands were too political. On July 19, the MTU filed again, with several clauses removed. And again it was returned, this time with a request for a full membership list. This list has been submitted, and to ensure the application goes through this time, the MTU is sleeping on the Ministry of Labor’s lawn. “We’ve been camping out since July 27,” says Udaya Rai, 44, president of the MTU. “There have been many difficulties because we’re small and they’re big. The government is forcing their side. There have been many, many difficulties.” Originally from Nepal, Rai says the police keep asking them to move to the street, but they refuse. “We have a strong will to achieve our goals, so that keeps us strong.” When I visited on August 4, there were about a dozen workers at the protest site in front of the Department of Labour, which is located in a big glass building near the City Hall subway station. There were boxes of instant noodles, coolers full of bottled water, drums, and a few bottles of beer which went untouched. Most of the workers were from Southern Asia,

The MTU is now trying to cancel the EPS system. We’re aiming for a labor permission system like Koreans have.

I N S I G H T Edited by Anita McKay (anita@groovekorea.com)

Udaya Rai, president of the Migrants’ Trade Union

permission system like Koreans have.” They’re fighting for a better welfare system for laborers here. “We want freedom of movement, choice of workplace, choice of contract length,” Rai says. The MTU also employs lawyers, and they will often call workplaces — literally call them on the phone — and tell them to treat their workers fairly, or face legal consequences. “We educate people to know they have the right to form a trade union and be a member of it,” Rai says. Rai came over illegally at first, and worked in a miserable factory where he was twice physically assaulted by the boss. Pay was often late, and complaining to the Ministry of Labor was impossible given the language differences. Now he’s legal, his Korean is fluent, and he is on the EPS, keyed up for the long-haul. “[The government] keeps saying they’re political demands but they are not,” Rai says. He insists they will win. “We will do this even if it takes 10 years.” On August 20, the union was finally recognized by the Department of Labor.

Institutional changes needed to curb abuse

Despite all the horrors he went through, Rath Mony Muth worked the standard 4 years and 10 months before he went back to Cambodia. He swore he would never return to Korea, but today he studies sociology at Sungkonghoe University in Seoul. “I try to be positive, to get better by study-

ing hard, and Korea has a better environment for study,” he says. When he isn’t studying, he volunteers to help others like him. With his fluent Korean and Cambodian, he provides vital translation services for those who have had their rights abused and need to seek redress. Rath has no problem with Koreans outside of work. Every migrant worker I spoke to said that the problems were with their workplaces, and that they found the Korean people themselves to be perfectly accommodating (if a bit stand-offish). The issue, it appears, isn’t cultural but economic and regulatory. At the LHRC, the People of Earth’s Station, the MTU, and at similar organizations throughout the country, Koreans and foreigners are rallying to repeal the EPS and change the way migrant workers are treated. Whether it will work or not remains to be seen — what is clear is that thousands are trying. *Names have been changed to protect identity

MORE INFO Migrants’ Trade Union www.migrant.nodong.net Korean Confederation of Trade Union www.kctu.org For information on Korean labor laws and practices contact the Korean Labor Board on 1305 ext. 5

November 2015 www.groovekorea.com 33

though there were a few Koreans and one person from New Zealand. Banners across the sidewalk read, “MTU’s claims are legit,” “The government shall accept MTU right away,” “We have waited 10 years. The Ministry of Employment and Labor must recognize the registration and establishment of MTU,” and “Labor is one!” The workers wore blue vests which had similar slogans in English and Korean. Minsu, 40, is a Nepali worker who didn’t want his full Nepali name used. He’s now married to a Korean and owns a small business, but when he first came over in 1997, he was undocumented. Minsu worked in a factory, which he said was very unsafe. “There were all the machines which we were not trained properly for at all,” he says. “I saw a Nepali guy in my own factory using a press machine,” like a compactor. Minsu explains how the boss turned off the sensor, a piece of safety equipment, to increase productivity. “It makes more accidents. He put his hand in and-” Minsu claps his hands together. The worker’s hand was chopped off. Three weeks later, the boss gave the injured man a broom and a new job sweeping up. The injured worker was afraid to go to the police, and got just the most basic medical care. “These days the system is better, we can go to the police, we can complain and make a statement,” Minsu says. He praises the shelters and the human rights organizations migrants can use to make complaints to the police. But even though it’s better than before, “It’s still bad,” he says. The MTU’s constitution had six clear goals when it was first submitted to the Ministry of Labor: cancel the industrial trainee system (an older work system for training migrant workers), cancel the EPS, introduce a work permit system (WPS), introduce basic free labor rights, stop deportations, and legalize unregistered laborers. The government demanded all six clauses be removed. The MTU agreed to remove three of them: cancelling the trainee system and the EPS, and stopping deportations. The rest, they’re going to fight for. “We will never take those out,” Rai says. “We will fight for this. This is our main purpose of the MTU.” Oh Young-min, head of the Department of Labor’s legal affairs division for labor and management relations, told the Korea Times in July that the clauses had to be removed because they were political. Oh was quoted as saying, “Some of the rules say the union will pursue legalizing illegal foreign workers and abolishing the employment permit system. Such rules will jeopardize law and order if we allowed their application.” The Korea Times also noted that since the MTU began in 2005, five senior officials have been deported, including two presidents. “The MTU is now trying to cancel the EPS system,” Rai says. “We’re aiming for a labor

34 www.groovekorea.com November 2015

Edited by Anita McKay (anita@groovekorea.com)

I N S I G H T

Story by Walter Stucke / Illustration by Rachel McDonald

Yangban Class

The

CSAT Exams and the

Edited by Anita McKay (anita@groovekorea.com)

class. However, preparation and study for the civil service exams were both time-consuming and costly â&#x20AC;&#x201D; a luxury that the lower classes could not afford. There are certainly similarities to the way things operate in Korea today. Children from wealthier families have more resources for private education and generally have parents who are better educated. The legacy of passing an all-encompassing exam that will secure a person's future also remains in place. Instead of mastering the Chinese classics and becoming a member of the yangban class, students strive for mastery in all of the subjects they have studied throughout elementary, middle, and high school, though an option for the Chinese classics still remains on the CSAT. By excelling on the CSAT, students are in a much better position to be accepted into Korea's elite schools, such as Seoul National University, Korea University, and Yonsei University. By being an alumnus of an elite school, the graduate gains a higher social status and network opportunities that are out of reach for most Koreans. Through these network opportunities, the graduates of elite universities are far more likely to serve in high-level government positions or obtain employment in one of the powerful chaebols such as Samsung, Hyundai, or LG. Once there, promotion opportunities are more forthcoming for the graduates of elite universities, paving the way for higher-paying positions. In Korea, the importance of succeeding on a test that requires several years of preparation is a reflection of the Confucian underpinnings of Korean society. Just as their score on the civil service exams of Chosun Korea determined whether or not an aspiring scholar would enter the yangban class, so too does a student's score on the CSAT determine whether or not they will enter a prestigious university and enjoy a life of higher status. So, if you are a teacher in Korea, do not be surprised if the obsession with grades and test scores continues with an intensity not generally found on a national scale in your home country.

I N S I G H T

very November for the past twenty years, hundreds of thousands of high school students across Korea take the most important test of their lives. It does not take long for expats living in Korea to become aware of the College Scholastic Ability Test (CSAT). I first heard of it as a middle school teacher in Daegu when I was told to come to school two hours later than my normally scheduled time. After inquiring as to the reason why, I was told that the roads needed to be empty so that the high school students who were taking the college entrance exam could get to school on time. Later that night, I saw on the news a video of a student on the back of a police motorcycle being rushed to his school, as well as younger students positioned near the school entrance cheering on the test takers. As a teacher in Korea, I noticed that my students seemed to practically worship test scores, even in middle school, and my observations from the day of the CSAT had me wondering why. To be sure, test scores are important in every country, but I had never observed anything near this level of intensity. The title of this column may sound foreign to readers who are not familiar with the Korean term yangban. During the Chosun Dynasty (1392-1910), the ruling class in Korea was known as the yangban. The yangban were similar to the literati of China, and no doubt, the former were inspired by the latter. Simply put, both the yangban and the literati were the scholarly officials. In order to become a scholarly official, which allowed for a comfortable life and a high-paying government job, a person needed to pass the extraordinarily difficult civil service exam, which tested one's knowledge of the Chinese classics, including many of Confucius's (551-479 BC) teachings and those of the great scholar Mencius (372-289 BC), among others. Together, these works are known as the Four Books and Five Classics. Technically, most people were allowed to take the exams, so a person could move from a lower class into the yangban

November 2015 www.groovekorea.com 35

36 www.groovekorea.com November 2015

Edited by Charlotte Hammond (charlotte.hammnd@gmail.com)

FOOD & DRINK

Serious Spanish Wining

and Dining Await

Story by Jordan Redmond / Photos by Steve Sherk

rience, and here, sliced fresh off the shank, its as lardacious and salty as you'd want. The panceta al vacio plays the straightman. Essentially pork belly done sous vide with a sweet marmalade and flanked by piquant fresh vegetables, it acts as a filling counterpoint to the stately jamón. Ultimately, there is the paella, in this case dubbed “arroz negro,” rice dyed with squid ink and dotted with mussels, cockles, and two massive prawns. Arroz negro and paella in general are of the Valencian region, Pretel’s original home. Black as moonless midnight, it's a logical end point. Currently constructed with Korean rice, inoffensive to those not familiar with authentic paella, Pretel hopes to procure the more porous Spanish Bomba rice variety in the near future. If you can still stomach more, the set meal concludes with a mango ice cream. As a locale to woo potential romance, investigate culinary curiosities, or simply scratch an itch for Spanish treats in a snug environment, Alma is a sure-fire destination for quenching a variety of thirsts.

Ambience Food Service Value Score

MORE INFO Mapo-gu, Sangsu-dong, 143-29, 2F 02-338-9025

November 2015 www.groovekorea.com 37

he restaurant's interior aids the pursuit of carnal achievements or merely cozy vibes. Tables are wellspaced, the music warm and propulsive, and Pretel's front-of-the-house role indispensible. The menu offers a balance of paellas and tapas, and while the wine menu is exclusively Spanish, it's well-chosen and offers up outstanding value. The draw for couples will be Alma's set menus ranging from 75,000 won total, for a necessarily belt-loosening experience, down to 50,000 won for a more lithe meal. Those who wish to perform any manner of physical activity after dinner should shoot for the latter. This reviewer and his dining partner chose the former which proved to be a quixotic choice. Lightly toasted and oiled Spanish bread with aioli and a light tomato purée commence this set. Reviewer’s suggestion: a few olives or slices of manchego cheese on the side would be a very welcome addition to this starter. Gambas ajillo follows but not as oily or as punchy as one would like, perhaps to please the typical Korean palette, notoriously spiteful of “oily” food. From here, the set menu seems much more sure of itself. A decadent and highly Instagrammable bombeta de Barceloneta, basically a dense fried ball, not dissimilar to an arrancini in crispiness except minus the rissoto, begs to be cracked open, after which it spills its minced beef and mashed potato secrets. Next comes a porky double dropkick. The aforementioned jamón de recebo, cured ham made from acorn-fed Iberian hog, is a requisite for any real Spanish dining expe-

Edited by Charlotte Hammond (charlotte.hammnd@gmail.com)

Tapas, paella and more from the proprietor of Mi Casa

FOOD & DRINK

at A l m a

Story and photos by Robert "Bob" Kienzle

Building Busan BBQ at Haeundae S mokehouse

38 www.groovekorea.com November 2015

Edited by Joe McPherson (food@groovekorea.com)

FOOD & DRINK

Southern-style BBQ in South Korea’s second city

hree years ago, an expat said, "Why is there no southern USA-style BBQ in Korea?" Another said, "There's a place on base that sells a basic pulled pork sandwich, but I can't get on base and my soldier buddy said it's not worth it." Three years later, Seoul is home to a handful of BBQ restaurants, some being just as good if not better than most places south of the Mason-Dixon Line. It was only a matter of time before Busan, Seoul's smaller sibling city got some brisket and pork to call it's own. Two BBQ joints have opened up recently: one near PNU and Haeundae Smokehouse right next to the beach. Haeundae Smokehouse is a small establishment with about 30 seats in the Pale de CZ complex. They've got their big black smoker right out front. As a part of their opening, the menu has, for the moment, a four-meat sampler for two people 38,000 won, a three side dish sampler for 12,000 won, a four-craft-beer sampler for 15,000, à la carte options including salads with extra meat options, and a variety of whiskeys and scotches. The sides arrived first and the sides came alone, meaning without anything else: no forks, no napkins, nada. They were quite busy and it was only their second weekend of business, so these things will happen. The meats finally arrived. The moment of truth arrived too, but sometimes the truth hurts. It seemed that everything on the table fell into 3 categories: trying too hard, not trying enough, and spot on.

Let's look at the "trying too hard" side first. The baked beans had some kind of meat in them, which I appreciate, but the chef may have spilled the entire bottle of spices in the mix and decided that would be good. They required half the amount. The BBQ sauce had the same issue and proves that all BBQ joints should have at least two options if only a mild and a hot. What was spiced correctly was the jalapeño sausage. The flavor was spot on, but it was unfortunately cooked too long or was left out too long after cooking and was overly dry. Now the "not trying enough" group. Some items just lacked flavor. Coleslaw doesn't have to pack much taste to be good, yet something was missing. Ditto for the potato salad. Was there a hint of dill? Possibly, but the seasoning must have been used up in the baked beans. Was the potato not cooked through long enough, or was it left in the fridge overnight? Possibly. The few slices of bread felt like the kind that comes out of a bag from the local corner store. Those who know anything about slow cooking BBQ knows it takes more than hours to cook correctly: it takes years of practice. Even experienced chefs spend months fine tuning their art in new locations and with new equipment, and this is likely what is happening at Haeundae Smokehouse. The meats tasted like fine quality cuts, but the craft of smoking at the right heat and for the right time could use some attention. The brisket was smoky in the right places, but not as tender as it could be. The pork was the similar, and though it says it comes as a

certain amount in grams, one platter had far less than the other. The final category, "spot on," saved us from overall lackluster. Haeundae Smokehouse’s chicken was the right texture, the right temperature, allowed the meat itself to come through on flavor, and if I went back I'd just skip everything else and load up on that. The mac and cheese had a lot of cheddar and bacon baked on top, and that recipe should never change. The best food we ate the entire night was the mashed potatoes. It actually evokes an "Oh my god, try this right now. It melts in your mouth." It definitely was the fluffiest mash I've ever eaten and the garlic infusion was spot on. Haeundae Smokehouse could operate successfully with just their chicken, mac and cheese, and mashed potatoes, but I'm guessing over time they will continue to experiment with their other items.

Ambience Food Service Value Score

MORE INFO 1124-2 Jung-dong, Haeundae-gu, Busan (inside the Pale de CZ complex) 051-746-9669

Story by Charlotte Hammond

Following a Taste

Romance

A love note to the flavorful city of Seoul dine alone. Chilly bowls of naengmyeon in the late summer, conveyor belt sushi on damp Sunday nights in Hongdae, a hot and yogurt-y Moroccan sandwich at three in the afternoon in HBC. I roosted in corners of the city, not wanting or needing to say a word, preoccupied with a book in my lap or just the life that moved around me. Each meal unfolded as slowly as I liked. Afterwards I took long postmeal walks as the sun dipped toward the mountains. This is the peaceful ease with which we fall in love. Spring is the season of eager lust, autumn is the season of romance. The passionate, slow-burning kind. The kind that evokes the Korean phrase gaeul ta da, which can be translated as the wistful moodiness one feels in autumn. In Seoul, autumn is the season we dash for the fleeting chance to commune with nature. With mountains and with makgeolli. We socialize with fervor anticipating an impending hibernation. We grab heotteok to warm our hands and insides with their sticky comfort. We cuddle up, we get cozy, we crave comfort in all forms. Savor Seoul this time of year. If you look past the commodified couple culture Seoul is a terrifically romantic place‑whether or not you are attached to someone. It is a romantic city that glimmers rather than glitzes, that offers an understated, warm romance you can find in the brushy overgrowth along the Cheonggyecheon,

or wandering a Korean market as it opens or closes. It’s in those cafes and bakeries you stumble on every now and then, those places filled with more doodads than people: little temples of coffee and peace. Seoul is a romantic place to live as well as a romantic place to eat and drink, and that’s what this issue of the food section focuses on. In Gangnam, where I live, pomp reigns. Still, I have an all-wood interior shikdang where I can get kimchi jeon, bossam and dong-dong ju. No longer single, I can take the man in my life there on a weeknight, ladle his drink for him, and stare at him lovingly while he unloads his daily stresses between bites of buttery steamed pork. We reconfigure the sidedishes on the table so we each have room to reach across to the other’s arm. With this issue I invite you to look beyond the obvious and find organic romance in eating in the city. Roam for humble and proverbial holes in the walls as opposed to the grandiose and sleek. Meat pies. Tapas. Spicy hot toddies. Busan BBQ. Soak up last of autumn like the leftover juices of a perfect stew.

Edited by Joe McPherson (food@groovekorea.com)

here are great cities of the world that are famously romantic. I hardly have to name them; they’re already flying through your mind in vignettes of rain slicked sidewalks and amber twilight: Paris, Rome, New York, Buenos Aires. Seoul doesn’t typically comes to mind. When I first came here, I didn’t find it that romantic either. Instead, I felt bombarded by the ubiquitousness of commercialized romance: the country’s staid, uberheteronormative couple culture that trafficks in too many Valentine’s days, steak-and-pasta “Italian” sets for two, the shameful feeling of sitting down at a cafe to enjoy coffee alone and being literally surrounded by tables of couples purring at one another. My first year in Korea rounded out a third straight year in my life of being single. At times the Korean Cult of Coupledom threatened to swallow me whole, but I resisted. Instead (Carrie Bradshaw evocation ahead: don’t shoot!) I dated my city for awhile. I took Seoul as my significant other. We embarked on the exciting phase of getting to know one another, me with my subway map at the ready, constantly scouring the web for creative dates: museums, parks, urban markets. As we got comfortable with one another I hunted down restaurants where I would

FOOD & DRINK

for

November 2015 www.groovekorea.com 39

Story by Joe McPherson

FOOD & DRINK

Adjust your November dining plans accordingly

here has been a lot of buzz about Santino Sortino's triumphant return to Itaewon. The original Santino's was a pioneering restaurant in Itaewon in 2002. After opening successful ventures south of the river, Chef Sortino has opened Scopa the Chef on the hill near Manimal and Coreanos. â&#x20AC;&#x192; The new D-Tower in Gwanghwamun is quickly becoming the gourmand's place to stop in northern downtown. Already inhabited by the much-raved Paulie's Brick Oven Pizzeria as well as new branches of Coreanos, Gilbert Burger, and Isabelle's

Scopa the Chef 57-19 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu

Recipe

Storyand andphotos photosbybyMatthew Joe McPherson Story J Chung

the Butcher. Barbeque favorite Manimal is opening a new fast casual concept, as is Pizzeria d'Buzza with Buzza Pizza Express. Be advised to steer clear of Lobster Shack unless you prefer corn and other random ingredients in your fake-authentic lobster rolls. â&#x20AC;&#x192; Some bad news. Reliable wings and pizza stalwart Hollywood Grill has closed its doors for good. It will be missed. For some good news, Maloney's Bar & Grill is now open for lunch, for those of you who enjoy their burgers and cubanos with some of the best craft beer in town.

D-Tower Gwanghwamun Station, exit 3 or 4. Walk east one block.

Maloney's Bar & Grill 225-67 Itaewon 2-dong, Yongsan-gu

November Recipe: Sriracha Pickled Mushrooms, Preserved Lemon Peel, Black Cherry Mostarda Matthew Chung of The BEASTRO Shares Seasonal Recipes

Autumn, hands down, is my favorite time of the year to cook through. Sitting right between the bright, sunny flavors of summer and the deep full bodiness of winter, this is when food starts getting richer without being too heavy. Here's a trio of pickles and preserves we use here and there at The Beastro to add a little brightness to otherwise heavy dishes.

PRESERVED LEMON PEEL

5 whole lemons 200g salt 200g white sugar

SRIRACHA PICKLED MUSHROOMS

450 g white button mushrooms 2 tbs canola oil 3 tbs salt 60 ml red wine vinegar 60 ml sriracha 2 cloves garlic, minced 2 tbs smoked paprika 1 tbs fish sauce 1 tbs brown sugar 2 tbs onion powder 1 tbs garlic powder 1 tbs freshly ground black pepper Picked fresh thyme

1. Trim and peel mushrooms. Slice into quarters 2. Roast mushrooms in a pan until tender 3. Combine remaining ingredients in a bowl and deglaze hot pan with mixture. Chill and store for up to a month.

1. Scrub outsides of lemon lightly under running water to remove wax coating. 2. Slice lemons in half, and then cut the halves into quarters while still keeping the ends attached. 3. Pack lemon halves in salt and sugar mix in a tall lidded container, and weigh everything down with a small plate. 4. Place in refrigerator. Lemon peels will be ready to use in about a month.

BLACK CHERRY MOSTARDA

500g fresh cherries 100 ml sherry vinegar 30 ml water 50 ml acacia honey 30 ml mustard oil 5 ml almond extract 1 bay leaf 5 peppercorns

Combine all ingredients into a plastic or glass container. Cherries are ready to use after 72 hours.

Story and photo by Robbie Nguyen

Naughty Toddy

Warm up with an especially spicy rendition of a classic: the Hot Toddy

s the weather turns chilly in Seoul, it’s good to have a hot libation in hand to keep the innards warm. The Naughty Toddy pairs classic fall flavors with maesil, a Korean favorite. The apple, cinnamon, and maesil harkens back to family gatherings and leaves turning and the spice of the fireball is a nice kick to the back of the throat. Happy imbibing! Naughty Toddy’s are available now at Southside Parlor for 10,000 won.

Edited by Joe McPherson (food@groovekorea.com) ENTERTAINMENT

1.5 oz. House Fireball 1.5 oz. Apple-Maesil Juice / Hot water 2 Lemon wheels (One for muddling and one for garnish) 1 Cinnamon Stick( For Garnish)

Story and photos by Andy Hume

Da Korner’s Empanadas: Get ‘em while they’re hot!

A co r ne r o f I t a e w o n i m bu e d wit h S out h America n f la v or early weeks of operation, the small kitchen offers a choice of fillings including beef with potato or tomato, and shrimp, as well as a cherry flavor for the more intrepid. The pastry is top notch, firm but not too dry. These empanadas may not have the authentic flavor of South America but they are worth seeking out nonetheless, especially washed down with something from the small but solid beer selection. Pastries can be purchased to go, but there’s a nice garden and outside seating area where gringos can eke out the last feeble rays of autumn. A good spot to fuel up before a night out, or while away a lazy lunch hour taking an impromptu siesta.

MORE INFO: Da Korner 142-1 Itaewon-ro, Yongsan-gu, Seoul From McDonald’s in Itaewon, walk into the small arcade just to the left. Da Korner is at the back. Opening hours 11am-11pm, though times may vary. 02-792-6013

November 2015 www.groovekorea.com 41

mpanadas are small pastries stuffed with savory (or occasionally sweet fillings) from chicken and pork to corn, shrimp or even shredded shark meat, big or small, baked or fried. Arguably the classic South American snack food, they are found in every street, fast food joint, bus station, gas station, farmhouse and doghouse from Panama to Patagonia, and now they have come to Seoul. Itaewon newcomer Da Korner — yes, the name has us stumped as well — is a delightful oasis of hidden calm that’s definitely worth hunting down. Still in its

Story by Giacomo Lee / Photos by Simon Slater

Darkness, Mannequins

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

ENTERTAINMENT

& Funereal

Giacomo Leeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s new novel Funereal explores sadness and staged funerals in Seoul. But what were the British authorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s first impressions of the city?

ere you there for the Korean winter of 2013? The cold was particularly harsh and brittle. I'd landed in snowy Seoul with a manuscript of Funereal up my sleeve, having finished it back home in the UK. The morning after landing in the city, I braved the cold regardless, wanting to explore the northern Sungshin area that I was staying in. The Lunar New Year had arrived, and Seoul was quieter than expected. At the traffic lights I spotted a large mall on the opposite side of the road, and behind me a smiley young woman in a hooded top. I looked back at the mall, realizing there was a cinema on its top floor, when the girl started to cry, with the smile from her face now gone.

42 www.groovekorea.com November 2015

Seoul is a secret to many outside the peninsula after all, and these kinds of stories, city stories, can say a lot about the human condition. The traffic lights changed, and she began to cross the road ahead of a few other Koreans, all of whom were as too confused as I was to check if the woman was OK, crying as she walked beside me. I may have asked her anyway once we reached the other side of the street, asking how she was in my own language, but she was already marching up past the shops and towards the mall, still teary as

You can read Giacomo Lee’s novel Funereal now in paperback and e-book on Signal 8 Press. http://typhoon-media.com/funereal/ Read more on the novel at www.giacomolee.com.

November 2015 www.groovekorea.com 43

None of the steps were moving as I spiraled up into the darkness, shuttered up shops and ghostly mannequins all around me.

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

she went on into the distance. Perturbed, I went into the mall for a bit of normality. Far from it - the place was closed for New Year, of course - and strangely dark because of it. A few people were coming in though, taking the lift upwards to what must have been the only open enterprise in the building; the CGV cinema on its uppermost level. I walked up the escalators anyhow, curious to see if anything else was open. None of the steps were moving as I spiralled up into the darkness, shuttered up shops and ghostly mannequins all around me. From that point on I began to rework Funereal into the novel it is today, and not a day went by when that first brittle impression of Seoul didn't color my writing, with its coldness and confusion, and that dark lifelessness of a temple of commerce, made a hollowed-out shell without the usual hustle and bustle that defines South Korea. The country's always on its feet, ever present like the neon lights that stay on even when sleep has taken hold of the land, and there is nothing to warm those who walk along its pavements alone by night. This was the secret atmosphere I wanted to capture in Funereal. Seoul is a secret to many outside the peninsula after all, and these kinds of stories, city stories, can say a lot about the human condition. From the Tokyo of the Murakamis, to the LA of Ellroy, readers allow themselves to walk into the darkness of these urban shadows. But in Funereal, there is still a glimpse of light in all the noir. After all, the thing I remember the most from that first morning in Seoul is not the crying, nor the darkness and mannequins of the mall. It's the smile of that girl which I can’t forget, that brave face she put on for the world out of trying. It reminded everyone around her that it was a new morning. It reminded everyone that a new year had come.

Moon still in the sky, sunlight spread slowly across Seoul through a front of haze and dust. Dressed in her regular interview suit, piebald and matched to dark heels, Soobin Shin surveyed the mountain-cradled Nowon district from the window of her seventh floor apartment. No one yet stirred in the street, but the roads were already rolling with waves of cars and delivery bikes, and neon signs were alive with words: Singing Room! Sauna! Church! Soobin wondered if any of these establishments had even closed shop the night before. Probably not. Rooms upon rooms, 24/7, she thought. Welcome to Seoul. Soobin turned and sprayed perfume into

ENTERTAINMENT

Here’s a small taster from the first chapter of Funereal:

the air, lingering beneath the cloud of aroma for a moment. Content that enough had fallen upon her, Soobin then left for the station, gasping at the cold before blending into the sea of whites, greys, and blues streaming both ways on the road outside. Only a yellow van stood out from the bland wishwash, parked up on the kerb. Kindergarteners were bundled into it, one by one, by a college girl Soobin had seen before, a drowsy-looking young woman in a military cap and parka. Even younger women dragged their feet from the opposite direction, high school girls trailed by middle school boys respectfully keeping their distance. Sleepy herself, Soobin wondered how many of them had gotten any rest the night before. Searching at the traffic lights for a glimpse of sky, all she could see with her weary eyes were windows and air-con units, ugly dust-battered boxes scattered across the faces of apartments in a tic-tac-toe fashion. Electricity lines trailed from rusting and weathered poles. On ground level, the same store names repeated up and down both sides of the road, and stamped on the cargo of numerous delivery bikes, whose hell-bent couriers sped through the red light and buzzed between lanes, their takeaways tilting them perilously askew as they disappeared into the horizon at either end of the road. As Soobin watched the influx of drowsy commuters streaming onto the escalator down into the underground station, she wondered if she should be trying for an island living, not this city one.

10-Minute Plays Bring Comedy & Drama To The Stage

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

ENTERTAINMENT

The Seoul Players bring their 10-minute plays to town for a thespian weekend of entertainment Story by Hallie Bradley / Photos courtesy of Seoul Players

hile many expats in Korea seek out different cultural festivals, events and shows when they first come to the Land of the Morning Calm, inevitably there comes a time when one appreciates a good ‘ole play in English. If you haven’t heard of the Seoul Players yet, then why haven’t you? Seoul Players are a non-profit English speaking theater company that was formed at the end of 2001 by Roman Zolnierczyk, an Australian thespian seeking to fill a void. The group are currently – and constantly - accepting anyone interested in performing, volunteering and producing and of course they are always hoping to expand their audience and welcome more viewers to check them out. Seoul Players aims to stage one to two main productions each year and since 2011, the group have held an annual shadow cast production of Rocky Horror which is usually showcased around (you guessed it) Halloween. They have also organized a 10 Minute Play Festival each fall since their conception, which has become more popular as the years

have gone by - and it’s arriving on stage this month. The annual 10 Minute Play Festival features veteran actors as well as those new to the stage in Korea. They compete for glory and to be able to say they outlasted on stage some of the best in town. This year, 16 plays have been chosen from over 200 submissions. Once the scripts have been set, the Seoul

44 www.groovekorea.com November 2015

The annual 10 Minute Play Festival features veteran actors as well as those new to the stage in Korea. Players put out an open call for directors who are chosen not only by their experience but more importantly their enthusiasm for a piece. This is closely followed by open auditions for aspiring actors and, after availability has been established for both actors and directors, the grueling work to bring the whole event together really just gets started. On November 13 and 14, 16 short plays will

be pitted against each other, ending in a battle to choose four winners by the end of the night. Certainly, one appealing thing about this festival is that due to the short 10-minute duration of the plays, audience members can view eight fun plays in one night, keeping them enticed and stimulated. Winners from this first weekend will compete in a final stage-off a week later on November 21, with this year’s selections covering everything from dark and light comedies to hard-hitting dramas. If you want a night (or a couple of evenings) of laughter, awe, or maybe a little sadness and romance, the Seoul Players are waiting for you. This year’s line-up includes “Sinners on a Southbound Bus,” a drama with a McCarthy-like scenario, while another group will present “Michael Prince’s Capstone Performance,” a comedy making fun of pretentious theatre. This year 30 members of the cast are new to the festival and two directors are bringing seven actors up from Daejeon. Enjoy a November weekend of entertainment and head out to support the 55 directors and actors that have put so much time and effort into what will likely be an inspiring, humorous and satisfying selection of productions.

Behind the scenes...

Nov K-Movie: Inside Men Check Movie Listings General release around Korea

Nov K-Movie: You Call It Passion Check Movie Listings General release around Korea

Nov 5 K-Movie: The Priests Check Movie Listings General release around Korea

Nov 13-14 Event: 10-Minute Play Festival

9pm KRW 10,000-KRW 15,000 Arts Tree Theater, 501 Guro-gu Guro 5-dong, Basement Level, Seoul https://www.facebook.com/SeoulPlayers

Nov 20-21 Theater: Pandora’s Box 10pm KRW 15,000 – KRW 30,000 Freebird 2

Nov 21 Event: 10-Minute Plays Festival

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

10 Minute Play Festival and what she thinks people should look forward to… I started collaborating with Seoul Players in November 2014. This is my second production with them, my first show being "Glengarry Glen Ross." This is my first time stage managing Seoul Player's 10-minute play festival. My favorite part is helping everyone collaborate and see their vision come to life on stage. Pre-production through to the production of a show is a long term commitment. Sometimes it takes years of training, rehearsing, rewriting before you can finish something and get it up on its feet. The 10 Minute Play Festival is a shortcut, a steroid shot to your longer term goal. Writers have a chance to see their work put on its feet and have a chance to be a finalist and win some cash! It gives theater artists a chance to work on new material and for the audience to see something entirely new. The exciting part about 10 Minute Plays is to see which plays will make the final cut and be chosen to perform again on Saturday the 21st. And then of course, to see who is the winner. I would tell people to come one of the days the first weekend and then come to the Finals to see which plays made it. Who will you root for?

ENTERTAINMENT

Sarah Grover, the Administrative Director who has been working with Seoul Players for the past three years, shares her thoughts on Seoul Players and the festival… Though I have not acted or directed in this festival, last year I was the stage manager and this year I am the producer. Working on a show of this size has been quite rewarding. It has been fun being able to meet so many new directors and actors from both last year’s and this year’s festivals. It has given me a great feeling being able to give both new directors and new actors a chance to participate and perform in our festival when they might not have another option. It’s been most rewarding seeing the process all the way through, from auditions to performances and seeing how much actors and directors, new and old, change and grow in their craft. We are excited to be able to give new actors and directors another go. Having so many participants is a fantastic way to appeal not only to patrons of theatre, but to individuals outside of the theatre community. We have an exciting two weekends coming up this November that will be filled with lots of tears and laughter. Erica Gambino, a stage manager that has been working with Seoul Players, answered some questions on her experience with the

8pm KRW 10,000 – KRW 15,000 Arts Tree Theater, 501 Guro-gu Guro 5-dong, Basement Level, Seoul https://www.facebook.com/SeoulPlayers

Nov 28 Event: Rubber Seoul

8pm KRW 10,000 Noksapyeong/Itaewon: Kimchi Sounds, Thunderhouse Tavern and a secret 3rd location

November 2015 www.groovekorea.com 45

MORE INFO: Seoul Players ? 10 Minute Play Festival November 13, 2015 at 9PM Finals: November 21, 2015 8:00pm The Arts Tree Theatre, Guro, 501 Guro-gu Guro 5-dong, Basement Level seoulplayers@gmail.com www.seoulplayers.org www.facebook.com/SeoulPlayers twitter.com/SeoulPlayers Adults KRW 15,000; Students KRW 10,000 (ID necessary)

ENTERTAINMENT

An ambitious new direction for the Seoul burlesque scene

Opening Pandora’s Box

Story by S. C. Clarke / Photos by Robert Michael Evans

WhiteLies Burlesque

46 www.groovekorea.com November 2015

has big plans this November. After catching a sneak peak of the trailer for their upcoming production of Pandora’s Box, Groove Korea sat down with writer, producer, director and performer Heather Moore to discuss the troupe’s enticing new project. GK: While the Seoul burlesque scene has been running hot for a few years now, this upcoming show seems a bit more elaborate than anything we’ve seen before. How did the project come about? Heather Moore (HM): Inspired by the performers in WhiteLies Burlesque, I wanted to use my background in theater to write and direct a show specifically tailored to showcase our talents. Unlike previous WhiteLies shows, Pandora’s Box is a scripted production. Theatrically, it has both Greek and Shakespearean theatre influences. Greek theater is designed to relate to an audience ready for a cathartic experience. Burlesque is designed for an audience ready to engage in visual stimuli. Our show is geared to marry the two; to encourage elevated thinking in a viscerally . . . stimulating setting. GK: Why do you think the tale of Pandora’s box is such an enduring one? How is

it relevant to us today? HM: It's the tango between good and evil, innocence and worldliness, and the balancing game we humans play between the two. This notion of balance permeates all aspects of our daily lives. If our version of Pandora's Box is to carry through only one message to our audience, I would hope it were this: control your evils, balance your yin and your yang. GK: Much like the Biblical Eve, the myth of Pandora is quite often considered to be an anti-feminist fable, in which a woman is deemed responsible for unleashing a wealth of horrors into a previously innocent world. How does this play into the ideals of contemporary burlesque, a style of performance focused on not only celebrating, but also empowering the female form? HM: Because our cast is entirely female, this version of Pandora's Box puts something of a different spin on the mythology, presenting a reality in which women [dominate] worldly affairs. Also, our Pandora invites both the men and women in our audience to question the morality of certain acts that society typically deems taboo. Like being nude, for example. I took my first breath on this earth while naked, I make love

naked, and I have modelled naked. Being born, having sex and artistically expressing myself with my body are not evil acts. Burlesque, however, although it is a lesser degree of nudity, can face scrutiny when it comes to being partially naked on stage. I choose to embrace my body and use it to create art. Right now, at age 26, I am choosing to perform in burlesque shows. And that choice is empowering.

Right now, at age 26, I am choosing to perform in burlesque shows. And that choice is empowering. GK: What can your audience expect to see at next month’s performance? HM: Our audience for Pandora's Box can expect to see a new caliber of spectacle in

ENTERTAINMENT Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

the production. If you’d prefer a more visual preview of what we have in store, we also have an official trailer up on Vimeo and the WhiteLies Facebook page. GK: What would you like to see come out of this production? HM: I hope this production resonates with my audience's deepest fantasies and desires. I want it to be the kind of theatre that connects us; reminds us of our humanity and in turn unites us. Even though the burlesque scene is growing in Korea, at this early stage it is still primarily supported by expats. This show has the potential to reach a Korean audience and expat audience alike, as it is telling a story with a universal theme in a very visual way. Our production will also be subtitled for any Korean speaking members of the audience. On a more personal note, I see this production as means for WhiteLies to create and collaborate with local artists of different backgrounds, coming together to produce art on a multimedia level. Burlesque can come in many different forms. I’d love to work further with the creative community here in Seoul, striving ever forward to discover something new.

MORE INFO November 20-21, (Doors open 10pm. Show starts 10.30pm, running time is 2 hours with intermission). Freebird 2, Hongdae KRW 20,000 won General Admission KRW 30,000 VIP tickets (including opportunity to be used in the audience participation aspect of the show). KRW 15,000 Discounted Tickets to those who bring a ticket supporting the arts during the month of November (e.g., Cirque du Soleil, art exhibits and galleries, and the 10-minute plays from Seoul Players) Information on purchasing tickets can be found on WhiteLies Burlesque Facebook (https://www.facebook.com/pages/WhiteLiesBurlesque-Revue) For those interested in further supporting the project or for those who cannot attend, Pandora’s Box will launch an Indiegogo campaign that will run through mid-November.

November 2015 www.groovekorea.com 47

terms of burlesque here in Korea. Kite Flying Robot is our live band and will be featured along side WhiteLies Burlesque. Nellwyn Fox (manager of WhiteLies Burlesque) is cast as Hera the Greek goddess that curses Pandora with curiosity. Nell harnesses the strength and majestic nature of Hera with her fire-spinning skills and haunting vocals. Lila Belle performs belly dances, contemporary dances, and on aerial silks. She personifies envy, greed and twofaced practices. Vanitas Pomf brings her experience as an actor to her chair dance performance, while engaging the crowd in a sequence of events that is fueled by audience participation. She is every evil associated with lust, passion and insanity. Sacre Bléu plays the most evil of them all. She is war, pain and death, all while safely spinning above the chaos in a dynamic pole-dance performance. I play Pandora, the first human woman; draped in white flowers, innocent and pure. She performs alongside The Evils in our group acts, utilizing aerial silks and taking part in pole duets whilst engaging in elevated language on the stage. You're going to see a lot of different elements in this show, from both the performance and technical side of

Story by Ali Safavi / Photos by Douglas Vautour

48 www.groovekorea.com November 2015

Edited by chance dorland (chancedorland@gmail.com)

ENTERTAINMENT

f you have attended any show in Hongdae, Itaewon or Haebangchon in the last year or so, you may have noticed a tall, bearded fellow with a camera eternally hanging from his neck, snapping pictures of some of the wonderful indie music talent we currently have in Seoul. That man is Douglas Vautour, a 38-year-old Canadian who’s spent the last fifteen years in Asia, twelve of which have been in South Korea. He is the brains and sole operator behind Korindie, a content portal for photos, video and now live concert audio of bands and gigs in Seoul. Korindie is a composite of a number of different elements, but the bulk of what makes up the service are photographs taken by Douglas under his catchall photography name Douglas Vautour Photography. Alongside gig shots, you’ll also find portraiture work, snaps from indie gaming conferences, art exhibits, charity events and even larger festivals. For the bands, these photos can be a great reminder of a fun night. For Douglas, who only started taking pictures seriously last summer, it’s a chance to build a portfolio of work and improve his skills to where he might be on people’s mind as a professional photographer. “The goal is to get to the stage where people trust me as a photographer,” he explains, “so that eventually people will think to call me…whether that’s paid or unpaid, it would be nice to be known for that skill.” Korindie also offers a wealth of video, and more recently on-demand live concert audio. A recent addition, audio capture of this nature is a unique service not offered by anyone else in Seoul, and it is especially great for bands who have not had the chance to make studio recordings. So far, live sets from Daegu-based band Mountains, Baekma’s final gig and an improv filled Club

FF show from Seoul dream-pop band Nice Legs have appeared on Korindie’s Bandcamp page, but the man behind Korindie teases, “I must have around 100 sets to work through.” Douglas is quick to enthuse he is simply providing this audio for the musicians to use as they see fit, though he also admits it’s a nice way for him to remember shows that he enjoyed. Roughly two years ago, a chance meeting with Mark Lentz (of Nice Legs) lead to the formation in Doug’s mind of what is now Korindie. He remembers, “I was working for

second official show at Hodge Podge… later I noticed ‘Hey! The quality is crap’ so I went and bought a DSLR and started taking photos.” Through Mark’s friendship, Douglas started to meet more bands and people in the scene, which allowed for more chances to test and improve his photography skills as well as develop new friendships. “Everything goes back to Mark…he was very encouraging [with my work] and I would follow him around and that’s how I met bands like Baekma and New Blue Death. I didn’t know anyone else at first.”

It took me a long time to realise that musicians are people, too… Douglas Vautour

a media company, and there was a constant flow of creative people around and I got it into my head that I could be creative as well... before then that thought had never crossed my mind.” Deciding he wanted to make videos for YouTube and take pictures seriously, Douglas used the newly formed Nice Legs as his muse, following them around and documenting their beginnings with a Sony Handicam. “I filmed him (Mark) and Lew (Lauren Walker – Nice Legs vocalist) at their

Those who have pursued creative ventures in Korea may have noticed how easy it is to get involved and start something. Whether it’s the smaller scenes, or the transient nature of foreigners, it seems easier to go in headfirst and not be fantastic at it right away, but to improve as you enter the public eye. Douglas notes that, “Korea is a large incubator for everything creative…because you have time to do whatever you want to and it gives you a chance, an extra chance you

ENTERTAINMENT Edited by chance dorland (chancedorland@gmail.com)

wouldn’t get anywhere else. For better, for worse…” In the few months that Korindie has existed, Douglas’ work has provided people with valuable and pleasing evidence of their endeavours every weekend. Recent ventures into writing have appeared on the Korindie

linkable so that everything that falls under the Korindie marker can be shared and used by bands he captures and their fans. While there are a number of places dealing with the indie music scene in Seoul, they are often either very exclusive in what they consider to be “Korean” indie, or too broad.

There’s a lot going on and a lot of talent in Korea right now. Facebook page that take a personal route, talking about Douglas’s experiences around a particular show or interactions with the band members, rather than writing about the music itself. The recently launched Korindie website will house more of Douglas’ writings in the future; it is fully indexed and

Perhaps not by design, Douglas looks at non-Koreans active in indie music in Korea as much as he does Koreans, where the balance of attention is rather one-sided. “Generally [foreigners] are such a small market that it’s not worth catering to sometimes, though the reason I do the foreign bands is because

To find Douglas’ work, visit www.korindie.com or www.douglasvautourphotography.com

November 2015 www.groovekorea.com 49

Douglas Vautour

I’m friends with most of them…I do want to make sure I cover Korean bands as well but the foreign bands don’t get a lot of coverage.” Regardless of a band’s background, the material he gathers is important. For many of those weekend rock-stars, that return to normality on the Monday can seem an anti-climax given how much practice and preparation went into their performance. That ping which announces the arrival of a photo Douglas took reminds them that the gig really did happen. And that someone was paying attention. Especially with audio capture and more new live sets appearing, it is rather exciting to have someone collecting this content, even if it’s mostly for the bands and their friends. It’s a most precious service for us to have. “I’m happy doing what I’m doing and if someone watches it somewhere it’s served its purpose…it’s easy for me to be there and press a button, so I might as well press that button but I don’t view it as special necessarily. There’s a lot going on and a lot of talent in Korea right now.”

ENTERTAINMENT Edited by chance dorland (chancedorland@gmail.com)

Story by Emma Kalka / Photos by Alison Hyejung Yoon

Part Time Cooks take a mystical trip in

“Se0ul Summer”

New music video has set a new standard for the already well-established hip-hop group

50 www.groovekorea.com November 2015

t’s obvious from watching the latest music video from expat hip-hop duo Part Time Cooks, “Seoul Summer,” that a lot of time and effort went into making the final product. Not only that, but it is truly a collaboration. Full of high-quality visual effects set against the backdrop of the beach and forest, the video takes viewers on a fantastical journey through nature while Part Time Cooks rap about good times spent in Seoul. From bottles of beer disintegrating into sand, to dancing giants and mini Part Time Cooks in a box, the video contains all the elements

of a modern-day fairy tale. It is artistic, yet whimsical and comedic in a way that only Part Time Cooks can be. But the journey to a mystical island full of magic and voodoo all started last summer when video director Thomas Maitland approached Blessing at a roof-top party hosted by his PTC partner Saul Goode. Both Maitland and Blessing hail from South Africa and had met previously on a flight back to Seoul. “One day he approached me and said, ‘You know, I like what you guys are doing. I like your originality. I’d like to shoot a video for you,” Blessing remembers.

According to Maitland, he liked that Saul and Blessing were open to experimentation and didn’t take themselves too seriously. Originally the duo had intended to have Maitland make a video for them for a completely different track, “Necktie,” which had a more dramatic tone with ideas that would have involved a bigger budget. But one Sunday morning, Maitland woke up to a phone call from an excited Blessing, raving about a new song they had recorded the night before. “This is the one, man. We’ve gotta do this track… Listen but we’ve gotta shoot it on an island. In two weeks and we need a new concept,” he said. Maitland delivered, and called in his friend Will Preston to help him further develop the idea. After putting together a team, he began “testing the waters” for what they could achieve in terms of visual effects. Filming took a total of eight days between the initial shoot – a couple days – and reshoots. Half of that, according to Maitland, was devoted to the effects shots. Post-production took another month with the team from Something in a Bottle productions working eight to 10 hours a day. While PTC were the masterminds behind the song and came up with the location, the concept behind the video fell completely to Maitland. “I have always enjoyed the visuals of voo-

ENTERTAINMENT Edited by chance dorland (chancedorland@gmail.com)

“Everyone was just super professional. I felt comfortable. I felt cared for,” Saul said. “It was just so cool. Just felt like, it felt like we’re working the way we’re supposed to be working. People are excited about it because we’re excited about it.” For the rapper from North Carolina, the most memorable day of filming was a scene that didn’t even take up a large spot in the video. They met to film a night scene with people dancing by a bonfire. The initial shot didn’t work out well, so they were forced to re-film it later. A friend showed up with a choreographed dance and everyone was rehearsed by the time they got there. The filmmakers also brought a drone to film the scene with. For Saul, one of the things that impressed him most was how everyone had done so much work to find everything. “I felt so blessed to have all these people who I’m now consulting with, who I didn’t even know before coming to shoot with us. It was just so cool.” Blessing added that it was working with such creative people that really made the project come together. “Working with people that you know are doing what they’re passionate about… everybody kind of put their own creative input into it, which was a lot of fun.” Maitland believes he was lucky to be work-

ing with a great team – Preston, art director and SFX artist Maria Eugenia Burger Perez, Euny Lee and Alison Yoon. “There’s always a moment when you are shooting in the middle of nowhere, on a beach with white sand, with the sun setting behind you that you realize that these are pretty much the best working conditions you could possibly have.” Maitland, Saul and Blessing all plan to work together again in the future. According to Blessing, “If we get a big budget to work on a video, we’re going to work with him. Because it’s nice to grow with people,” with Maitland and the PTCs already having ideas for future videos in the works. You can catch a live performance from Part Time Cooks at 10:30pm on Saturday, November 7 at Secret Society in Hongdae. For more information on their upcoming shows, and to watch the new “Seoul Summer” music video, like them on Facebook.com/PartTimeCooksPage

November 2015 www.groovekorea.com 51

doo and sangoma magic and felt this would be a fitting location to introduce a witch doctor,” Maitland said. “I wanted the PTC to have been locked away as if they were these powerful genies, but I needed a reason for their imprisonment. I listened to the song again and decided they must have been locked away for using their magic to have too good a time.” Making the video didn’t come without its challenges. The biggest challenges were working on location in and around Seoul and Incheon, which was logistically difficult with all the equipment and extras, not to mention the fact the special effects often required three to four shots in tandem to create a single shot. And then there was dealing with the public while trying to get some of the footage. “Shooting green screen in a Banpo swimming pool resulted in an angry swimmer getting us kicked out of the adult pool,” Maitland said. “We were relegated to the kids pool with concerned parents wondering what three grown men were doing with a sand-filled vodka bottle, a green screen, an inflatable mattress and waterproof cameras.” But despite all the issues, Blessing and Saul agree it was an exciting experience and fun working with a great group of creative people.

52 www.groovekorea.com November 2015

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

ENTERTAINMENT

K-Film:

Three Byâ&#x20AC;Ś Adaptation Novemberâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s K-Film releases offer a cinematic spin on ripe source material

The Priests Release date: November 5th Directed by: Jang Jae-hyun Starring: Kim Yun-seok, Gang Dong-won, Park So-dam, Jo Su-hyang Distributed by: CJ Entertainment

You Call It Passion Release date: November Directed by: Jung Ki-hun Starring: Park Bo-young, Jung Jae-young, Oh Dal-su, Bae Sung-woo Distributed by: Next World Entertainment

Story by Simon McEnteggart / Photos courtesy of Hancinema

s 2015 begins to come to a close, the Korean film industry shows no sign of slowing down thanks to a number of high profile releases. Interestingly, the biggest films this month are adaptations of three very different sources - a short film, a webtoon, and a novel. All the productions emerge from a variety of genres, guaranteeing something for everyone as the weather becomes increasingly chilly and audiences start to flock to local cinemas for some big screen comfort.

Inside Men Release date: November Directed by: Woo Min-ho Starring: Lee Byun-hung, Cho Seung-woo, Baek Yoon-sik, Lee El Distributed by: Showbox/Mediaplex

cently appeared in hits The Throne and Veteran, while Jo Su-hyang gained recognition with her powerful turn in indie drama Wild Flowers, which earned her the Actress of the Year award at the 2014 Busan International Film Festival. The Priests will be helmed by director Jang Jae-hyun, who makes his feature film debut after years working within the industry helming shorts as well as operating as an assistant director.

gate the corruption behind the power play, determined to expose the truth to the public. Inside Men has been adapted for the big screen by director Woo Min-ho, who previously helmed Spy (2012) and Man of Vendetta (2010), and is no stranger to tales of suspense and violence. The film stars superstar actor Lee Byung-hun

Did you know? Oh Dal-su is arguably the most successful actor in Korean cinematic history. Best known for his supporting roles and great comedic timing, Oh has appeared in so many hit films that he recently became the first actor to pass over the 100 million admissions mark at the box office.

as the gangster seeking revenge against the corrupt political figures, while Cho Seung-woo features as the prosecutor desperate to forge a reputation. Celebrated veteran actor Baek Yoon-sik, who has appeared in a number of films exploring the amorality of the social elite, such as The Taste of Money, Park Chung-hee assassination comedy The President’s Last Bang, and cult classic Save the Green Planet, takes the role of the unethical newspaper editor.

Did you know? Inside Men is based on an as-yet-unfinished webtoon by renowned manhwa creator Yoon Tae-oh, whose most famous works include Moss - later turned into a hit film starring Park Hae-il - and Misaeng (Incomplete Life), which became a TV sensation last year for its frank portrayals of the lives of office workers in contemporary Korea.

November 2015 www.groovekorea.com 53

Political thriller Inside Men deals with a particularly controversial subject, namely the connection between the press and political figures in the manipulation of the general public. The story follows shady political gangster Ahn Sang-goo, a man who sets up clandestine relationships between the social elite in order to secure them power across the peninsula. His latest job involves the collaboration between a presidential candidate and the editor of a prominent conservative newspaper, resulting in a media frenzy that positions the congressman in a prime position to rule the country. Yet after the deal, Sang-goo is viciously betrayed and cast out, and begins to plot his revenge. Meanwhile ambitious prosecutor Woo Jang-hoon starts to investi-

entertainment section of a newspaper. Left with little other option, Ra-hee accepts and quickly discovers that the harsh realities of working in the field under a manic boss are far removed from the fantasy she imagined. The comedy-drama stars Park Bo-young as the naive intern learning the inner workings of the industry, with the film promising to explore the more chaotic and scandalous issues in contemporary journalism. This is Park’s third film to be released this year following horror The Silenced and quirky drama Collective Invention, which, along with TV drama Oh My Ghostess, cements her emergence as one of the hardest working young performers in showbiz. The story has been adapted for the big screen by director Jung Ki-hun, who was previously responsible for romantic comedy Love 911 and drama Ae-ja.

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

Based on Lee Hye-rin’s novel of the same name, You Call It Passion is informed by the author's fraught experiences as an entertainment journalist. Having recently graduated from a reputable university, Ra-hee excitedly applies to several agencies to fulfil her dream of becoming a journalist. Disappointingly, however, she is rejected at every turn until she receives a surprise phone call offering her an internship with the

Did you know? The Priests was developed from director Jang Jae-hyun’s 26-minute short film 12th Assistant Deacon. The short won the Best Director accolade at last year’s Jeonju International Film Festival within the Korean Competition for Shorts program, and was also awarded Best Film in the Extreme Nightmare category during the 2014 Mise-en-scène Short Film Festival.

ENTERTAINMENT

When a young girl is involved in a tragic hitand-run incident that leaves her in a coma, the story tells of how her symptoms become increasingly odd and mysterious. Two Catholic priests, Father Kim and Deacon Choi, become involved and, as they take note of the patient’s illness, they begin to suspect that the girl may be suffering from demonic possession. The Priests stars heavyweight actors Kim Yunseok and Gang Dong-won, who previously appeared together in box office hit Jeon Woochi: The Taoist Wizard, as the titular clergy. Kim has appeared in some of the Korean cinema industry’s biggest films over the past decade including The Thieves and Sea Fog, while Gang is a household name due to roles in Secret Reunion and classic melodrama Maundy Thursday. While the film has cast notable and established male leads, the female roles have been allocated to young rising stars. Park So-dam has re-

Korea Inspired:

Expat Filmmaking at BIFF 2015

54 www.groovekorea.com November 2015

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

ENTERTAINMENT

Story and photos by Kevin Lambert

Kevin Lambert brings us behind the scenes at the Busan International Film Festival (BIFF) and lends an insight into why we should consider making our own films

n the second weekend of the Busan International Film Fest (BIFF), the Korea International Expat Film Festival (KIXFF) team, with the participation of K-Movie Love, a non-profit community group which screens Korean films for international audiences, presented at BIFF Conference and Forum (BCNF) on expat filmmaking. Invited by Mr. Jeon Chan-il, the Director of the BIFF Research Institute (the organizing body of the conference), I jumped at the opportunity (and the challenge) alongside my co-conspirator, Kim Hyun Suk (creator of K-Movie Love). We planned a series of lectures and a screening event, not unlike the K-Movie Love events we run monthly. While most people are gnawing the bony popcorn kernels stuck in their molars into pulp, we arranged a dozen plus short films by expat artists, from music videos to documentaries, teasers and BIFF-competing shorts. The whole point of the event was to convince anyone who might care to show up why expat filmmaking deserved to be represented at (and represent) Korean film fests. Below is an excerpt of my seminar titled, “Korea-Inspired: The Growing Expatriate Film and Arts Movement and Why It Matters". I made a note of where you’d see slides (just pretend they’re there.)

SLIDE: What is Expat Art? spent much of his life as an expat, and Well, it’s not exactly a thing. At least, Louise Bourgeois, whose spider graces the there’s no Wikipedia page for it. I thought entrance of Itaewon’s Leeum Museum, there was a defunct website for virtual expatriated from France to the US when migrants and a book on Migrants in art. she married an American art historian. There’s a NYT slideshow, which is nice Among others, Paul Klee, Francis Bacon, and some blog posts, but that’s really the Edvard Munch and even Vincent Van extent of it. Gogh spent time as expats. I often like to make the mental connecIn the US there are a number of filmtion between Paris and Seoul. I won’t harp makers and artists who have immigrated on it, but I believe for the most part this to the US, to the point where it felt like analogy is relevant. The conditions that every major comedian was Canadian. Bigexisted in 1920’s Paris allowed for the ger names like Inarritu and Peter Jackson writing community to live and play and are fairly obvious ones. Outside of Hollywork in conditions conducive to art. Seoul, wood there are fewer examples of popular for all of it’s ‘Bali Bali’ work hard ethos, filmmakers who have succeeded substanalso allows certain expats a similar oppor- tially… there’s Christopher Doyle, but also tunity. Granted this is mostly for the for- Tsai Ming Liang. There’s also Korea’s own eign students, English teachers and white Nam Jun Paik. collar working population. You would think for all the notoriety of SLIDE: But this isn’t Paris. And you are the Paris expatriates, they were the first NOT Hemingway. expat artists in the world, but did you I tend to talk about Hemingway a lot, as know that expat art is a long standing tra- I’m fascinated by the hive created in Paris dition? For example: Leonardo Da Vinci, in the 20’s. There lived in few not too diswas born in Tuscany Italy, but moved to tant neighborhoods, writers like Gertrude France on commission from the French Stein, James Joyce, Ford Madox Ford, Ezra king and stayed there for the rest of his Pound, F. Scott Fitzgerald. They managed life. to inspire and support each other in subSalvador Dali, left Spain for the US. Kan- stantial ways. dinsky took his geometrics first to GerFor all the things I could say to convince many, and later to France, where he be- you that what we’re doing here is of value, came a French citizen. Marc Chagall, from maybe it’s just as important to point out Belarus settled in France. Paul Gauguin, just how… not valuable it is.

The whole point of the event was to convince anyone who might care to show up why expat filmmaking deserved to be represented at (and represent) Korean film fests

ENTERTAINMENT Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

This is why it’s also necessary to take up the cause of immigrants, emigrants, refugees, third world kids, adoptees, and others who are on the borders, or without nations. It’s not just because we’re privileged or because it’s the right thing to do. It’s also because in some selfish way, we’re too smart to be on the wrong side of history. We’re the borderless wanderers. We’re the existential migrants, the cosmopolitans, or as Nam Jun Paik would say, we’re all a part of the Global Village. Kevin presented his seminar Korea Inspired: Expat Filmmaking at BIFF 2015 last month. For more information about expat filmmaking, visit the Korea International Expat Film Festival (KIXFF) website at http://kixff.com/

November 2015 www.groovekorea.com 55

After all, it’s just movies. Zombies, guns, festival views, but it’s not the Oscars. That’s drugs, murder, adultery, sex, even rape. And not happening. For me the most damning part of calling this lots of bad words. Why in the world would we think that this somehow makes our world an Expat film movement, is the term expat. better? The movies we make are low-budget. Some people have no interest in being called Even the most successful expat films are at an expat. One person went so far as to say budgets that Hollywood would reserve for ca- they avoided the festival because they felt expat connoted a sense of hating the countering. Let’s not kid ourselves. While Benson Lee try you came from. In the end, It’s not some scored a Sundance screening with Seoul beacon of light that all travellers care seek out. Searching, a film that he shot about Kore- Also a convincing argument has been made an-American kids visiting Korea in the 80’s, that it’s really only for the privileged. This, for for every Seoul Searching, there are dozens me is the most significant problem. As long of films that will never get a festival screen- as Expats are considered white and European, ing. Does that make expat film anything more as long as a large swath of the world is called than white noise? Expat film will surely grow migrants and not expats, then what we do is as the expats in Seoul continue as profession- at best hypocritical, and at worst vain and exals, and their films will continue to get more ploitative.

Riding Against Traffick

– and Against All Odds

56 www.groovekorea.com November 2015

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

T R A V E L

Kristen Hendricks, one of the cyclists who rode from Busan to Seoul in four days to raise money for the Oak Tree Project, Hope Be Restored and House of Hope charities, wrote a daily diary to share her pain, anguish and triumph. Story by Kristen Hendricks / Photos by Elizabeth Hogsten

Day 1

I stumbled off the 6am bus after the long overnight trip from Seoul to Busan and splashed water on my face, threw on my bright yellow jersey, and devoured a cream-cheese bagel. Biking shoes and helmet at the ready, I got the thumbs up from my team members. And off we went - the first day of the Ride. This is the fourth Ride Against Traffick, and my second time participating. Even after hitting a tree last year, I signed up for the Ride again. Friends think I’m crazy and co-workers respond with a confounded “Oh….” when I reveal my plans to ride 600km across Korea for the Chuseok holiday. Perhaps I like the challenge or the surge of adrenaline when riding down mountain trails; however, the Ride isn’t all fun. There are tough stretches where I feel myself hitting a mental or physical wall, asking myself, “Why am I doing this?” I’m riding for others. The Ride raises money for people who have names, dreams, interests, personalities…for those who deserve to be treated with dignity and be given equal opportunities for education and a normal life. And so during the tough days of the Ride, I remember who I’m riding for. And today was a hard day. Despite being Day 1, my body was weary from the long working week and lack of sleep from the overnight bus ride…so when feeling discouraged and weary, I remembered those people, the people I’m fighting for. And that gave me the strength I needed to finish the day.

Day 2

After a good night’s sleep, I felt ready to ride this morning. At 4:45am, the women in my

There are tough stretches on the Ride, and when I feel myself hitting a wall mentally or physically, I ask myself this question, “Why am I doing this?”

room were up, braiding their hair, slathering on sunscreen, and gearing up for the long day ahead. The total riding distance for the day was a daunting 145km. “Let’s go! You have five minutes to be ready!” Peter Palma, the director of the Ride Against Traffick, yelled enthusiastically at the riders. Since we had such a long distance ahead, we had to stick to a strict schedule or we wouldn’t make it to the last checkpoint before sunset. At 5:45am, all the riders were ready at the starting point, pushing off down the long rolling hills, one team at a time, speeding off into the misty Korean coun-

tryside. Today had its share of challenges. One bike path was partly blocked off due to construction, diverting us round a longer bike path route which included a small mountain we had originally planned to avoid. It was a difficult day but I am so proud of the riders and support crew. Nobody even complained about the mountain route – in fact, almost everyone raced to get to the base of the mountain! After reaching the top, the support crew gave us peanut butter bagels and water before finishing Chuseok day with an amazing Korean meal

and ice cream. The final distance for the day was a total of 162.7 km. We’re about halfway there!

Day 3

Day 4

Today was the last day, and I crashed. The morning started with a few hills. One of the downhills was steeper than I anticipated, and my front wheel hit what looked like a stone monument. My bike flipped, me along with it, and we both slammed onto the pavement. For about three seconds, I couldn’t feel my left side. Panic set in, and I started screaming hysterically. I didn’t know what was going on. John-Michael Becker, one of the staff of Oak Tree Project and a member of my team, hopped off his bike, ran over, and started calming me down. He cradled me like a child and

November 2015 www.groovekorea.com 57

Read Kristen’s original story at https://rat2015blog.wordpress.com

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

If I get back on the bike, it will be a miracle. And it will be for them and not for me, I thought.

kept telling me, “It’s ok, it’s ok.” I looked at my left leg and thick streams of blood ran off my leg and onto the pavement. My left hip was still numb and my lower back ached. My team called Sky Becker, John-Michael’s wife and an Oak Tree Project staff member, and her mother to come pick me up. As we waited, my team prayed for me. The Ride Against Traffick is an openly Christian organization, and we prayed regularly. Sky, her mother, and another rider’s mother cleaned up my leg and helped me stand up. I could barely walk. I laid down in the car as my team members got back on their bikes and rode away. At that moment, tears began streaming down my face. I’m done, I thought. I can’t finish the ride. I couldn’t help but grieve over the fact that I couldn’t finish the ride I had trained months for. It hurt my pride. I lay in the car and thought about how my own ego was mixed up with this desire to help the poor and the orphaned. If I didn’t finish the ride, would it reflect badly on me? Isn’t this supposed to be about them and not about me? It was a humbling realization. It was no longer about them – it was just about me. If I get back on the bike, it will be a miracle. And it will be for them and not for me, I thought. After a precautionary visit to the local ER, the doctor told me I had no fractures, breaks, or damage to my organs. My leg was bandaged up and I was sent on my way with some pain killers. But, I still couldn’t walk. Peter prayed for me and helped me walk around the hospital parking lot. I felt my left hip begin to loosen up and eventually, I could walk without assistance. After lunch, I got back on the bike to see how it felt. My body, particularly my hip, was still sore and numb from the accident, but I decided to rejoin the race. The support crew drove me to meet my team, and thankfully I finished the last 25 km of the Ride Against Traffick into Seoul, riding with my team at 24 km/hr. When we crossed the finish line at Torch Trinity Seminary, a wave of relief swept over me. It was such a trying day, but ultimately the Ride was not defined by my bike accident but with a greater vision and purpose to see sex trafficking put to an end and to see the orphans in Korea supported and loved. Support the Kristen’s Ride for the Oak Tree Project, Hope Be Restored, and House of Hope charities at http://www.rideagainsttraffick. org/en/fundraisers/Ride-Against-TraffickKristen-Hend

T R A V E L

Today was “Big Mountain” day – a personal challenge where last year’s six kilometer-long track pushed me to the limits of mental and physical endurance and I had to walk most of it. Having prepared by training on mountain ranges, I stayed relaxed, comfortable and started pacing myself. I biked at least three-fourths and stopped only twice to walk. All the other riders also came within about half an hour to the top of the mountain - an amazing feat! We celebrated with mandu, curry, and big bowls of hot soup. Riding down the mountain was my reward for the grueling mountain climb. I admired the beautiful scenery around me. Korea is so beautiful. The crisp, fall air whipped across my face with the red trees and lush green rice fields on my left and the craggy, jagged side of the mountain on my right. There are so many things to love about this nation. I know for-

eigners who moan and groan about the cultural differences. I’m also aware that there are some serious injustices within Korean society – particularly the proliferation of the sex industry and the lack of support for college-aged orphans – which will hopefully become a thing of the past. But, complaining blinds us to how beautiful Korea and its people are. It’s moments like these that make me fall in love with Korea more.

Old Beijing In The New Era

58 www.groovekorea.com November 2015

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

T R A V E L

Take a time machine back to China’s dynastic period Story and photos by Vivian Chan

ost tourists to China choose Beijing as their first stop where they can be dazzled by the marvellous architecture of the Forbidden City, the Great Wall and the Temple of Heaven. However, the capital has many hidden gems to offer, with the experience of old hutongs – a Mongolian word meaning “water well” - ideal for any seasoned traveler slightly jaded by typical travel book fare. Prevalent throughout northern Chinese cities, in recent years many have been demolished to make way for new buildings – to the point where some of those remaining have been given protective status in an attempt to preserve some Chinese history against this march of progress. On my first day, my rickshaw took me to the entrance of the hutongs because the alleyways were too narrow to go further. Strolling among them brought me back to a simpler time. Following the map for the hutongs, I came to Nanluoguxiang, a tourist hotspot which contains shops and restaurants of different characteristics. One of the most memorable experi-

ences here was visiting Lusongyuan Hotel. A part of the former mansion of Prince Sengge Rinchen, an eminent Mongol General in the Qing Dynasty, it is a cultural hotel that represents a typical Beijing siheyuan (a traditional quadrangle courtyard). I enjoyed my stay at this hotel as every nook and cranny contained a rich cultural aura. Enjoying my breakfast and tea in the courtyard, I felt transported back to the Ming and Qing dynasties. The hotel, now a municipal cultural protection relic, is conveniently located in the city center, within walking distance of the Forbidden City. As it is near Nanluoguxiang, it left me advantageously placed to visit nearby attractions within the hutongs. Away from the relative frivolity of Nanluoguxiang, the hutongs on the other side offer budding historians the opportunity to see the former residences of many famous people. Since Nanluoguxiang is near the Forbidden City, many government generals and officers, writers and painters lived here in the old days and thus it became a well-known residential area. Each hutong is dotted with the former residences of historical figures,

The former residence of Mao Dun, a famous contemporary Chinese writer, gives literature lovers a glimpse of life for a writer in 1920s Beijing.

TRA V E L

It was like travelling back to the Ming and Qing dynasties as I enjoyed my breakfast and tea in the courtyard.

ally means contradiction in Chinese, was in fact a pen name used to express the tension and unstable situation in China at that time. This house has retained the traditional architectural style and preserved treasures such as hand-written texts from Mao’s later years. The hutongs offer not just a hide-away from the hustle and bustle of the city, but also much to explore and experience. There is an old Chinese saying, “By learning from history, one can recognise successes and failures.” This is very true; different hutongs and old buildings tell us different stories. If you want to explore the old Beijing stories up close, head out to these narrow lanes. Or to just unwind, stroll through Nanluoguxiang and grab a beer or coffee, and enjoy the rest of your Beijing trip your way. You can contact Vivian for more information via her email: vivian.chan0726@gmail.com

Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)

MORE INFO Transportation Tips: 1: To get to Nanluoguxiang from the airport, take the Airport Express train to the final station Dongzhimen. Change to Beijing Subway Line 2 to Chaoyangmen and change to Line 6 to Nanluoguxiang. 2. To get to Lusongyuan Hotel from the subway train station Nanluoguxiang, take Exit E. Take a two-minute walk to Nanluoguxiang and then turn right to Banchang Hutong and keep going for another three minutes. Lusongyuan Hotel Website: www.the-silk-road.com

November 2015 www.groovekorea.com 59

such as the brother of the last Qing emperor Puren, writer Maodun, painter Qi Baishi, and the Republic of China political and military leader Chiang Kai-shek. On the second day, after a seven-minute walk from my hotel, I arrived at Maozi Hutong, where I found the former home of the Empress Wanrong, who was the wife of Emperor Puyi, the last emperor of the Qing Dynasty. In 1922, Emperor Puyi married Wanrong here. She left the Forbidden City in the final years of the Qing Dynasty, forced after Japan’s invasion to be an empress of the puppet state of Manchuko, where she became addicted to opium and ultimately died in prison. Today, the crumbling traces of the glorious history in the residence can barely be seen; the color has faded from the building, leaving behind silence and gloom. Only a six-minute walk to the Houyuanensi Hutong from the former residence of Wanrong is the former home of Mao Dun, a famous contemporary Chinese writer. This place offers literature lovers a glimpse of life for a writer in 1920s Beijing. The then Minister of Culture, Mao Dun, which liter-

Cathay Pacific

HSBC Hong Kong Sevens Three days of top-class rugby

60 www.groovekorea.com November 2015

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

T R A V E L

in the Pearl of the Orient Story by Liam Ring and Naheen Madarbakus Photos by Dieter Harms and Cathay Pacific Korea

o the Rugby World Cup may be over but the sport continues to be alive and well in Asia. The Cathay Pacific/HSBC Hong Kong Sevens 2016 returns in April to kick start the sporting season in style. Although sporting excellence might not necessarily be something you consider, the Seven’s weekend is seen by many as just about the best festival on the calendar.

This year marks 40 years since 12 Asiabased teams played in front of a paltry 3,000 spectators at the Hong Kong football club. The 2015 event – played at the 40,000 seater Hong Kong Stadium – attracted a full house for three days of action involving 28 countries as far flung as New Zealand, England, Russia and Mexico. Past alumni of the event include rugby legends such as David Campese and Jonah Lomu, and with the Rio Olympics months away, there are likely to be even more stars than usual competing. Hong Kong is one of the most bustling and vibrant hubs on the continent; a place that conjures images of bright lights, excitement and fun, and the Sevens is no different. The event itself attracts everyone, from those who just want to wear wacky costumes and fit as much beer in as possible to committed rugby fans for whom the Hong Kong Sevens is a bucket-list event. One of the biggest costume events in the world, it offers one of the most

electric atmospheres available with wall-to- Sevens website. At just over a three-hour flight away, now wall rugby blended in with all the singing, camaraderie and excitement that a three-day might be the best time to hop over for one of festival can conjure. Beer is plentiful, with the biggest sporting events the rugby world wine and spirits also on offer at certain desig- has to offer. Those who have been say they nated points, although as with all such events, wouldn’t miss it for the world. Those who don’t like rugby can be converted. All agree prices can be a little steep. There are a number of ways to obtain tick- – it is definitely one of the best things about ets, although competition can be fierce with Hong Kong, and a guaranteed good time. many hospitality packages and prime seating going to Hong Kong-based businesses With thanks to Dieter Harms of Seoul for the event. For locals, there is an online Survivors and Richard Goss for their insights. lottery process available which allows people the chance to buy tickets. Cathay Pacific What and Dragon Air both offer packages includ- Cathay Pacific/HSBC Hong Kong Sevens ing match-day tickets and hotels, and though When separate flights can be a little more expensive April 8-10, 2016 than usual for the weekend, local hostels are Where available if all you need is a place to rest your Hong Kong Stadium, Causeway Bay head between match days. The official ticket partner of the event is Viagogo, allowing you Website to sign up for ticket alerts on the Hong Kong www.hksevens.com

T R A V E L

Cathay Pacific are proud partners of the Cathay Pacific/HSBC Hong Kong Sevens 2016 tournament. With the upcoming event taking place next April, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s time to start making preparations for a three-day weekend of rugby action. As the official airline to the tournament, Cathay Pacific have designed a package to bring sporting enthusiasts together for this long established and much-loved sporting event. To celebrate one of the most famous sevens destinations in the world, Cathay Pacific have combined a round-trip flight between Korea and Hong Kong together with a three-day ticket for the Sevens. Flights come with economy and business class options and the Sevens ticket offers entry to the Hong Kong Stadium in Causeway Bay for the duration of the tournament weekend. What Package prices start at around KRW 752,000 for Cathay Pacific/HSBC Hong Kong Sevens Packeconomy flights and KRW 1,243,500 for business age seats (price includes all applicable taxes and surWhen charges). The Cathay Pacific/HSBC Hong Kong April 1-10, 2016 but book by November 26 Sevens Package is only available until November 26, but as tickets are limited, seats could be sold Website www.cathaypacific.com out before the end of the month.

November 2015 www.groovekorea.com 61

With the upcoming event taking place next April, its time to start making preparations for a threeday weekend of rugby action.

The package is perfect for any a weekend away to enjoy one of the biggest rugby tournaments in Asia while visiting the sights of vibrant Hong Kong. Flights are available between April 1 and 8 as visitors must arrive in Hong Kong before the tournament commences. Although accommodation is not included, many hotels, hostels and pensions are suitably located within easy reach of the stadium. Cathay Pacific Korea serves six daily flights between Incheon and Hong Kong. With a flight time of just over three hours, Cathay Pacific offers the most direct link between Korea and Hong Kong at the most convenient times. With a total of 189 other destinations linking Hong Kong International Airport to the world, Cathay Pacific can offer a weekend - or a world - away from Seoul.

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

Cathay Pacific/ HSBC Hong Konwg Sevens 2016 Package

The Korean MMA organization has no intention of resting on its laurels

ROAD Gears Up FOR

62 www.groovekorea.com November 2015

ith MMA becoming one of THE growth sports worldwide, Groove Korea spoke to new ROAD FC Global Development Officer Lee Li about the organization and its plans for the future. Groove Korea(GK): From the early shows, was there any fight/show where you thought “these guys are onto something here”? LL: ROAD FC secured a tertiary broadcast almost immediately, which was remarkable. They were promoting a mix of Korean MMA stars who’d been champs in Spirit MC and overseas promotions, with recognizable foreign talent. High-level production, lighting, pyrotechnics and seamless scheduling made the show as enjoyable and exciting as the fights. It really tapped into what could be the future of MMA as a sport and a show in Asia. GK: What are ROAD FC looking to develop with the Young Guns undercards? Who do you see as more likely to make the step up in the future? LL: ROAD FC has a great amateur set up that holds monthly competitions, and winners move up to the Young Guns live events. So, fighters go from gym environments to the bright lights and big audiences as they prove their abilities. This is the ideal way to build any athlete, and MMA is no exception. Kim Min-Woo has already begun making his mark, and at just 22 will improve. Kwak Jong-

Hyun is a really fun fighter who is just beginning to put all the pieces together to become a real threat. Grappler Cho Young-Seung is now 5-0 and had his debut on a main card, and I expect we'll see more of him now. GK: How is the women’s division looking at the moment? Can Ronda Rousey help to inspire more Korean fighters? LL: The women's division in MMA is notoriously small in this region, so matchmaking is difficult. However, the new female Korean fighters are remarkable! Kim Ji-Yeon is unstoppable. Park Jeong-Eun and Lee Ye-Ji have put on some surprisingly competitive performances with far more experienced opponents. Rather than Rousey inspiring more women to be in MMA, her larger impact has been to broaden the appreciation for women's MMA. GK: Who are the biggest fighters in the or-

ganization at the moment aside from Riki Fukuda? LL: A kid who gets a lot of buzz is Kim SooChul, who shares the number one bantamweight spotlight with current ROAD FC Champion Lee Yun-Jun. Soo-Chul is a phenom. He went from a lopsided losing record to going on a win streak over famous and talented fighters. By now, he is recognized as one of the best fighters in Korea. Superstars making their resurgence are Judoka Yoon Dong-Sik, wrestler Choi Mu-Bae, and the “Techno Goliath” Choi Hong-Man. Lightweight Champ Kwon A-Sol and contender Lee Kwang-Hee are “original” Korean MMA fighters still going strong and drawing fans. Inaugural Flyweight Champ Jo Nam-Jin has also done the international circuit and has mixed it up with titled competition.

A Big Future " Story by Liam Ring / Photos courtesy of MMA-in-ASIA

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With thanks to ROAD FC announcer Anna Desmarais for all her help with the article. For more ROAD information, check out http://www.roadfc.com/

November 2015 www.groovekorea.com 63

versus expectations. Choi ended up on the wrong side of a punch. He's got a multi-fight contract, so let's see how he comes back from this. GK: What effect do you think Road FC’s Tokyo show will have on the likelihood of their returning to Japan? LL: ROAD FC's Tokyo show was a success. The follow up from the local press was extremely favorable. I believe ROAD FC will return to Japan once, if not twice, in 2016. GK: Is there an organization in Asia that Road FC could look to as a model for future success? LL: I would say ROAD FC itself is the model for success. In five years, their growth has been methodical, steady and positive. ROAD FC knows its market and how to reach it, and the fighters are treated with respect and gratitude. GK: What do you think is Road FC’s biggest challenge to come? LL: Building a roster of talent to match Korea's as ROAD FC expands into new markets. Korean MMA fighters have jumped to the top of the list of talent in Asia in the last couple of years, almost exclusively because of ROAD FC. Going forward, increasing the market fighter roster will be as important as increasing the market audience.

Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)

ROAD FC has a great amateur set up that holds monthly competitions, and winners move up to the Young Guns live events. Lee Li

GK: A number of titles seem to be vacant at the moment. Do you happen to know the reasons for this? LL: They haven't been fought for yet! Welterweight, Light Heavyweight and Heavyweight are uncontested because they are hard weights to find in Asia. But look at the Heavyweight division growing now! ROAD FC CEO Jung Moon-Hong once explained to me that he was more interested in exciting matches than having fighters contesting belts. Each division had to be built up slowly to make a title something valuable. For example, the Lightweight Championship conquest spawned some of the most exciting matches in ROAD FC - between top fighters Nam Yui-Chul, Kume Takasuke, Vuyisile Colossa, and current title holder Kwon A-Sol with long-time rival Lee Kwang-Hee. GK: Was Choi Hong-man’s performance a missed opportunity? Was it a risk worth taking? LL: Choi Hong-Man was a superstar on the world stage of MMA. He wanted a second chance, and ROAD FC gave it to him. It was ideal to have him on their first card in Japan, since he has legendary status there. Some distracting press and “ring rust” after his lay-off probably affected him. It would have been a remarkable story line for Choi to earn a win straight away, but ROAD FC doesn't provide easy matches. Carlos Toyota was a real threat, and he proved it. Any legend returning after a lengthy absence is a risky proposition in terms of performance

Story by Liam Ring / Translation assistance by Keum-seok Kim Photos courtesy of MMA-in-ASIA

The Fighting Commentator

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MMA veteran Daehwan Kim on Korea’s Premier Promotion

long-time supporter and commentator on MMA in Asia, not many will forget his punch that laid out Douglas Kobayashi at ROAD 20. Groove Korea got the chance to ask the Fighting Commentator about all things MMA. Groove Korea(GK): How long have you been involved in mixed martial arts? Why did you get involved initially? DK: I started to learn MMA around 2007-8. I was already commentating on television and had been training in kickboxing and boxing for a long time, so it wasn’t 100% new to me. I just wanted to learn it. I always thought learning MMA would be so cool because it is the closest form of martial arts to a real fight. GK: What do you remember about your first MMA match? DK: I had my first MMA fight in England in March of 2012. Even though I won it by decision, I wasn’t happy at all; everything was wrong. I couldn’t get the timing of my striking, my nose got broken by my opponent’s jab, and I was completely exhausted by the end of the fight. But after that somehow I had some more chances to fight and eventually started to get better as a fighter. GK: What do you remember about your first Road FC match? DK: Fighting at Road FC was a very special moment for me; one of the things on my bucket list. But at the same time, I was super nervous since that was my first time fighting in front of the members of my gym. Plus I had to juggle commentating and fighting. After the weigh in, I rushed over to the broadcast station to call the UFC event and even on the fight day I had to commentate on another UFC event before

Fighting at Road FC was a very special moment for me; one of the things on my bucket list

my fight. After my fight I took a shower, got dressed, went back to the booth and called the rest of the show. It was a pretty hectic schedule but I was happy anyway. GK: How would you describe your fighting style? DK: I have a really pure, basic style. Since I am unbelievably lacking in flexibility, what I can do technique-wise is very limited. I like punching and clinch fighting. My kicks are horrible. My 9-year-old son is already so much better than me when it comes to kicks. GK: What was it about you that meant you made the grade as an MMA fighter? DK: I think it is the most open, realistic way of combat so automatically you end up asking yourself a lot of questions, finding out so much about your strengths and weaknesses. Also, I never imagined MMA could give me this level of satisfaction and gratification. If I hadn’t tried it (fighting inside the cage), I would have regretted it forever. GK: What do you see as your greatest expe-

Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)

November 2015 www.groovekorea.com 65

rience with Road FC? DK: Everything. Everything has been a huge honor for me. Calling the great fights, meeting with the fighters and building up great friendship with many of them, and having the chance to fight there too. I appreciate everything. GK: How has the promotion developed since it was established in 2010? DK: The development is surreal. The Korean market is so different from the U.S. market because it is extremely hard for any sport to survive professionally in Korea. It seems that baseball and soccer are so popular here but people don’t know how much support from the government and the big companies those sports got when they started a long time ago. Road hasn’t got any of that. Road has developed purely on its own. That is why I respect every single member of Road FC. GK: What can people expect from a Road FC event? DK: Excitement, passion, and true sportsmanship between fighters.

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GK: What was the best fight you witnessed at a Road FC event recently? DK: The bantamweight title fight between Yun-joon Lee and Jae-hoon Moon. That was one of the greatest fights in Korean MMA history. GK: Are there any new fighters you are really excited about? DK: My boy Hyung-soo Kim and Oka from Mongolia, who are training at Team Fighter. GK: Does the Road promotion expect to return to Japan in the near future? Would it consider putting on a show in China? DK: They already held the first show in Japan last July. And as far as I know, they are preparing for their debut in China within this year. That is going to be exciting! GK: What kind of people come to the gym you own with Hyung-soo “The Immortal Wrestler” Kim? Are there any up-and-coming fighters at your gym we should look out for at future Road events? DK: Well, I own the gym and Hyungsoo and I work together there. Most of the members are not pro fighters. But they love combat sports and they are as passionate as the pro fighters. I have some guys who are trying their best to get the chance to fight in Road FC, but first they have to go through the Central League, which is the gateway to the big league. I can’t say everyone from my gym, including myself, has the ability to become a champion, but we truly love MMA and Road FC. We are just ready to rock there!

The Once And Future King Comes To Seoul Story by Rob Shelley / Photos by Getty Images / Zuffa LLC

66 www.groovekorea.com November 2015

Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)

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Benson “Smooth” Henderson Flies the Korean /American Flag at UFC Fight Night in Seoul

n 2006, a young man named Benson Henderson postponed his life as a police officer to make his professional MMA debut. The son of an African-American father and Korean mother, Henderson found that his decision wasn’t so popular at home. “My mom wasn’t too happy at first,” he laughs. “She thought, ‘Oh it’s not safe. You can’t fight or you’ll get beat up every day.’ And I was like, ‘You know that if I’m a police officer, I could get shot at. It’s not really that safe [either].’” The badge appealed to him because he always dreamed of helping people. He just liked MMA a little more. “I took a leap of faith and have been doing it ever since. And it’s worked out pretty well for me.” Winning seven of his first eight fights, Henderson joined World Extreme Cagefighting. After rolling through his first two opponents, he got a shot at the Interim WEC Lightweight Champion, Donald “Cowboy” Cerrone, on Oct 10th, 2009. Henderson won a decision in a thriller that was named Fight of the Year. After unifying the title, he tasted his first defeat in several years at the hands of Anthony “Showtime” Pettis, another Fight of the Year. Around this time, the WEC was bought up by the giant Ultimate Fighting Championship. Out of all the fighters to join the UFC from outside promotions, few have soared as high or as fast as Benson “Smooth” Henderson. Almost literally wearing his faith on his sleeve, Henderson sports angel wing tattoos on his shoulder blades and back. He considers himself lucky that at age eleven or twelve his two older cousins started taking him and his brother to church functions four times a week. “Right during those 3-4 years when you decide who you wanna be, I was taken to church all the time. I hung out with a lot of good people. A lot of positive influences. It helped me a

Out of all the fighters to join the UFC from outside promotions, few have soared as high or as fast as Benson “Smooth” Henderson.

“UFC Fight Night Seoul: Henderson vs. Alves presented by Bodyfriend” comes to the Olympic Park Gymnastics Arena on November 28 with a 6:45pm start. http://ufc-seoul.com/

November 2015 www.groovekorea.com 67

Shortly after his loss, Henderson bounced back with two wins before suffering a first round knockout loss to current lightweight champion Rafael Dos Anjos and an extremely controversial decision loss to Donald “Cowboy” Cerrone. Losing 3 out of 5−more losses than he suffered in his previous twenty-one fights combined−Henderson found himself in very unfamiliar territory. So, like Frankie Edger did after Henderson beat him twice, “Smooth” decided it was time for a change. This month, the former lightweight champion fights his second fight at welterweight against Thiago “Pitbull” Alves in Seoul. Moving from 155lbs to 170lbs presents a unique set of pros and cons. Although he will be giving up his strength advantage, he will be gaining an advantage in speed, agility, and endurance. When asked about his legacy up to this point, the 31-year-old former champion puts it succinctly: “Not done.” Still in fantastic shape, still growing, and still hungry, Benson Henderson is not ready to look backwards. “I’m trying to break records and set records higher. When you’re doing that you don’t have time to reflect back. I do know, conceptually in my head, that I’ve done a lot of things. But for me this is, say, Chapter 3 or Chapter 4 in a 20-chapter book. So I feel like I’m just getting started, always trying to grow and improve myself. So stay tuned. Man, give me another year, another two years, another three years. I’ll open some eyes up.”

Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)

derson can get around better than most. “I can walk around downtown Seoul and be just fine on my own. Explain myself. Asking for this or asking for that. Getting around. I have no problem with that.” He watches some Korean dramas and films on Netflix but really loves Korean cuisine. “I was stoked the first time [my wife] cooked [Korean BBQ] for me.” Henderson beat Edgar again at UFC 150 and followed that up with two more successful title defenses, tying the legend BJ Penn with the most defenses in UFC lightweight history. In six years, he had only lost to one man, Anthony Pettis. And at UFC 164, he lost to “Showtime” again and, once more, lost a lightweight championship in the process. For the second time, “Smooth” had to look at himself in the mirror as a former champion. Often in Korea, those who are born overseas or of mixed race have trouble being accepted as Korean and ask themselves “Who am I?” Not Benson Henderson. “I never had a hard time understanding who I was. I’m American. My ethnicity is half-American, half-Korean. I never had a hard time or a problem with that. It might be because of who I am personally. I never tried to fit into anybody’s mold. I do understand that some people have a hard time with that. But for me the biggest thing was realizing that everybody is different: the entire world over.” Henderson sees Korea soon becoming more comfortable with its changing identity. “As Korea gets more diversified and more global, you can either try to stay the same or embrace the change. And there’s one constant in life, one thing that always stays the same, and that’s change. So you have to learn to grow with change.”

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lot during my life.” Upon entering the UFC, Henderson rattled off three straight wins to earn himself a title shot at one of the UFC’s toughest and most popular fighters, Frankie “The Answer” Edgar. The two met in the main event of UFC 144 on February 26th, 2012 in Saitama, Japan. Henderson’s rise to a UFC championship fight came as a result of a lot of hard work and he knows he owes a great debt to his mother. “The biggest example she set is hard work. She’s the hardest working person I’ve ever seen.” Clearly the fighter took the lesson to heart. Always in fight shape and always improving, “Smooth” has consistently been one of the best and classiest fighters in the world. “[My mom] helped set the course for the man I became.” Ironically, she too was the one to encourage him to take up the Korean martial art taekwondo, as a way to keep some of his Korean heritage while living his American life. Henderson won a hard fought decision victory against Edgar and became the new UFC Lightweight Champion of the world and ESPN’s Fighter of the Year; the first and only fighter of Korean ancestry to win a UFC title. Long eager to fight in his homeland, Henderson asked the UFC to schedule him for this event. But he denies that fighting in Korea will affect his performance. “Being in Korea is awesome, it’s great, it’s cool. But it doesn’t matter. There’s always extra stipulations on fights. First time in Korea. First time in the UFC. First main event. First fight for a world title. There will always be a new first. It’s definitely a historic moment, but you have to approach it the same.” Although he doesn’t speak fluently, Hen-

The Cage MMA’s number one promotion comes to Seoul

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Story by Rob Shelley / Photos courtesy of Ultimate Fighting Championship

ore than any other sport, Mixed Martial Arts (MMA) reveals a kind of truth. While most spectator sports showcase amazing feats of athleticism and skill, these feats are somewhat arbitrary. Who can best bounce a ball and shoot it through a hoop? Who can dangle a puck on a sheet of ice using a wooden stick? These are somewhat frivolous questions. Fighting, however, along with sports like running and swimming, answer fundamental questions that have mattered in the real world since there have been humans on the planet. If there were no sports and no spectators, the question of who is the greatest fighter would still be, well, fought over. The Ultimate Fighting Championship (UFC)’s unfair reputation for brutality and barbarism was likely formed during the UFC’s early years. The original incarnation of the UFC cage fighting event was devoid of many rules or conventions; consequently, matches were often truly brutal. The sport of MMA as it exists today is highly evolved. All fighters are trained in multiple martial art disciplines. Many rules and practices have been adapted to protect combatants from unnecessary damage. Accordingly, the number of injuries and incidences of head trauma in MMA actually compares favorably to the NHL or NFL. In addition, fighters in the UFC show an astonishing degree of respect and sportsmanship, often giving high fives and sometimes even hugging in the middle of fights. And now the UFC has finally come to Korea. MMA is not new here, with several local

fighters and gyms as well as Road FC. As expected, Korea’s first ever UFC Event, Fight Night 79, will feature local fighters such as Dong Hyun Kim, Doo Ho Choi, and half-Korean half-Japanese fighter Yoshihiro Akiyama. Korean-American Benson Henderson, the former lightweight champion, will headline the event. The preliminary fights will feature several more local fighters. Former lightweight champion Benson “Smooth" Henderson lobbied the UFC to

let him compete in Seoul. This is his second fight since moving up in weight class and he fights the 13th ranked welterweight fighter Thiago "Pitbull" Alves. Alves, who once challenged George St. Pierre for the welterweight championship, is looking to move back into the top ten. Meanwhile, Henderson has suffered some recent losses since losing his belt, but if he wins in convincing fashion against Alves, he should leapfrog into the top ten of the welterweight division.

The co-main event is a match-up between former Croatian Special Forces officer Mirko “Cro Cop” Filipovic and American fighter Anthony “Freight Train” Hamilton. Cro Cop was once one of the most feared heavyweights on the planet. Although now past his prime, Cro Cop is still a dangerous veteran known for his brutal head kicks; his right leg is known as “hospital” and his left leg as “cemetery.” Both fighters have aggressive and active styles which promise to make for some fireworks. Busan native Dong Hyun “The Stun Gun” Kim is arguably the most successful Korean-born MMA fighter, currently ranked 7th in the welterweight division. Kim is fighting unranked Jorge “Gamebred” Masvidal. Clearly a match-up for Kim to show his stuff in front of the home crowd, anything less than a convincing victory would be devastating for The Stun Gun considering all three of his losses have come against highly ranked fighters. As the UFC continues its global expansion, a successful event here in Seoul could be the beginning of many events in the ROK. Considering all the young talent, the growing popularity of Road FC, and the emergence of MMA gyms across the country, Korea is ready to be a big player in the MMA game. “UFC Fight Night Seoul: Henderson vs. Alves presented by Bodyfriend” is in Seoul on November 28 at 6:45pm Location: Olympic Park Gymnastics Arena, Olympic Park Station, Exit 3 Cost: KRW 15,000 for the 5 hour show http://ufc-seoul.com/

New Premier 12 Tournament to Ignite Passions in International Baseball

Baseball’s newest tournament promises to produce some scintillating match-ups, and there is no better way to begin than South Korea vs. Japan. Story by Luke Butcher / Photos courtesy of Korea Baseball Organisation and World Baseball Softball Confederation

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Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)

Dome. It has been drawn in Group B, the most exciting of the two by far, alongside baseball power houses the USA, the Dominican Republic and arch-rivals Korea. The opening match is certainly the one whetting the appetite of fans across the country here. The opportunity to beat host Japan in the Rising Sun’s favorite sport will give Koreans added impetus. The squad tasked with defending national pride is certainly not a weak one. Lee Dae-ho, currently a major star in the Japanese league with Fukuoka Softbank Hawks, and America-bound Park Byung-ho will provide considerable power in a strong batting line-up. Other players hunting for a move to the big leagues like SK Wyverns’s left-arm ace Kim Kwang-hyun and Doosan Bear’s outfielder Kim Hyun-soo will also be looking to use the tournament as a chance to impress any watching scouts. Group A mainly consists of some decent outside shots for the tournament, including Cuba, Canada, co-hosts Taiwan and the top-ranked European team the Netherlands. Those four teams are likely to make it to the

all-or-nothing quarter finals where things really heat up, and the chicken and beer consumption in Seoul will go into overdrive if the South Korean team makes it anywhere near the final. A revenge match against the Netherlands, who shocked the Koreans at the last World Baseball Classic (WBC), will certainly be in the back of some player’s minds should they progress to the knockout phase. The tournament potentially has a bright future ahead of it. Currently, the governing authorities, this time including the MLB, are pushing hard for baseball to be reintroduced onto the Olympic list for Tokyo 2020, and if the sport is included, then the 2019 Premier 12 tournament has been picked as a likely qualifying tournament. The MLB in particular, aware of the huge financial possibilities of raising baseball’s popularity worldwide, claims to be very keen to see the sport return to the Olympics and promises to pay more attention to international baseball in the future. This year could only be the start. Contact details: lbutcher1109@gmail.com

November 2015 www.groovekorea.com 69

nternational tournaments in baseball rarely get the hearts of baseball fanatics racing, particularly in baseball’s homelands. However, a brand new iteration – the Premier 12 – opens this month and in Seoul you will likely see it in every chicken and beer place in town, not least because the opening game throws together Korea and their fiercest rival, and tournament co-hosts, Japan. Running over nine match days from November 8 to 21, the Premier 12 is organized on the premise that simple is better. The tournament will be co-hosted by Japan and Taiwan and features the 12 highest-ranked international teams in the world in two groups of six. They play a round robin, with the top four teams of each group advancing to the knockout rounds. No complicated format, no long series’, just do-or-die baseball. All group stage matches bar that opening Japan versus Korea game (set for the Sapporo Dome) plus the quarter finals will be played in Taiwan, while the semi-finals, and medal matches will be played at the Tokyo Dome, meaning for once an international event will be kind to those of us with regular sleeping patterns. Baseball purists may dismiss the tournament as more of a gimmick than a serious competition. Indeed, no Major League Baseball (MLB) player will be allowed to join the tournament after the governing authorities failed to strike a deal to allow the biggest names to join. The ruling means that the USA will bring a team of minor league players just as they have done for other international events, and teams like South Korea, Japan and the Dominican Republic will be missing some key players like Choo Shin-Soo, the Korean who has lit up the MLB in the second half of the season with his exploits for the Texas Rangers. However, that is unlikely to deter teams and fans from East Asia and the Caribbean taking this tournament very seriously indeed. Japan in particular has been vocal in their desire to regain their number one world ranking and will be aiming to go all the way to the Tokyo

The Art Of Eight Limbs

Let Body & Seoul guide you through the Muay Thai universe

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Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)

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Story by Anna Desmarais, owner of Body & Seoul / Photos courtesy of Body & Seoul Gym

uay Thai, the national sport of Thailand, is nicknamed the “Art of Eight Limbs” because it makes use of not only the hands and feet, but also the knees and elbows to create arguably the most devastating striking-based martial art in the world. For many people, it is synonymous with kickboxing, which neglects some fundamental differences in technique, history, and competition rules. Muay Thai is the traditional Thai form, making unlimited use of elbows and knees and also the full clinch: two fighters basically grapple while standing up. It has more of an emphasis on kicking than the modern kickboxing styles, which make heavy use of the hands by incorporating a lot of Western boxing and head movement. With advantages to both styles, many gyms, including Body & Seoul, offer a hybrid of traditional Muay Thai and modern kickboxing. Modern kickboxing is a combination of American kickboxing (with its roots in full contact karate), Japanese K-1, and Dutch kickboxing. The latter is a form which exponents such as Ramon “The Diamond” Dekkers have proven time and time again to be a superior form of fighting. Blend them together and you have quite the armory – not to mention a workout. I personally have trained in Thailand and the Netherlands, among other countries, and while the styles are markedly different, I have found a way to attune myself to all the different styles. Even among the different Muay Thai camps in Thailand, you’ll find numerous variations in technique, which can be a bit confusing, especially for beginners. However, eventually you figure out how your personal preferences work best for you. These may reflect your personality, fighting style, or body type. That’s one of the things to love about this art: it can be very personal and a way to express yourself - almost like a dance that has its own rhythm. That’s why all of the coaches at Body & Seoul hail from different backgrounds and have something unique to offer. For example, my

All that punching, kicking, kneeing, and elbowing is a fantastic way to let off steam. All your troubles seem to disappear in one three-minute round on the pads. successes of proponents of Muay Thai Kickboxing in events such as the Ultimate Fighting Championship (UFC) have brought its obvious competitive benefits to the masses. Besides competition, people get into Muay Thai Kickboxing for a variety of reasons. Undoubtedly, most people are just looking for a new form of exercise, and the workout you get from training is incredible, even if you never spar or fight. The cardio is intense, and all the while you’re working your arms, legs, and core by punching and kicking pads or a heavy bag. By the time the training session is over, you’re dripping with sweat and your hands are shaking, but the time absolutely flies by because you never actually feel like you are “exercising.” Plus, all that punching, kicking, knee-

MORE INFO: Body & Seoul 225-1 Itaewon-dong #201, Yongsan-gu, Seoul www.seoulmartialarts.com

SPORTS

background in taekwondo means I tend to incorporate some of the fancier kicks you don’t often see in Muay Thai, such as the spinning back kick. However, it’s important not to forget that, despite stylistic differences, some things are indisputable when it comes to technique, such as relaxing your shoulders and pivoting your hips to generate maximum power. For simplicity’s sake, Body & Seoul refers to this modern day hybrid form as Muay Thai Kickboxing. One of the main reasons why many gyms these days are leaning towards this style (whatever the moniker) is because you get the best of both worlds and it most adequately prepares fighters for mixed martial arts (MMA) competitions. MMA has emerged as one of the fastest growing sports in the world, and the

ing, and elbowing is a fantastic way to let off steam. All your troubles seem to disappear in one three-minute round on the pads. Another obvious benefit of training in Muay Thai Kickboxing is the self-defense aspect. Proper technique allows one to deliver devastating blows, with a single kick able to generate around 480 pounds (218 kg) of force; like getting clubbed with a baseball bat. Even at close range, Muay Thai Kickboxing training is useful since the knees and elbows are the strongest points of the body. Using these “limbs” could effectively get you out of a potentially nasty situation. While the ability to turn your body into a deadly weapon is a skill that hopefully you’ll never need, the sense of security and confidence you feel just from knowing what your body can do is invaluable and worth the time you put into training. If your interest has been piqued, we invite you to join us for a free Muay Thai Kickboxing trial class at Body & Seoul. Just send an email to seoulmartialarts@gmail.com mentioning this article in Groove Magazine and we’ll book you in for a lesson!

Winding Down The K-League Season The domestic season winds down with little still to play for

Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)

SPORTS

Story by Steven Price at kleaguefootball.com / Photos by Steven Price and Stephen Waddell

ith just under a month remaining, most of the final K-League standings have already been wrapped up. While there is still an outside possibility of Suwon Bluewings winning the title, Jeonbuk Motors are still massive favorites short of a 2004 New York Yankees-style collapse. Elsewhere, the relegated Daejeon Citizens never really got started, and the club could be joined in the K-League Challenge next season by Busan I’Park.

72 www.groovekorea.com November 2015

K-League Title Race

Jeonbuk started out of the blocks quickly, going unbeaten until the end of April, which gave them a sizeable lead at the top. Bolstered by strong attendances, last year’s K-League champions have managed to keep hold of the top spot ever since. There were concerns that their season might unravel in the summer when star striker Edu was sold to Hebei China Fortune. However, Jeonbuk replaced him with not one, but three strikers, bringing in Korean national team (KNT) star Lee Geun-Ho, and Spanish forward Urko Vera, with former Jeonbuk player Luiz Henrique also returning to the club. With such strength in depth, Jeonbuk has held on to the top spot despite Edu’s sale. Its nearest rival, Suwon Bluewings, has kept up the pace, and would have been closer if not for Jeonbuk’s electric

start to the campaign. Suwon also lost a key player in the summer, selling North Korean striker Jeong Tae-Se to J-League side Shimizu S-Pulse. However, Tae-Se’s replacement, Bulgarian international Ilijan Micanski, hasn’t set the K-League alight. On a somewhat positive note, Suwon midfielder Kwon Chang-Hoon’s great form has seen him break into the Korean national team, with the twenty-one year old’s future looking bright as he ponders the possibility of a move to a large European club.

The Race for Third

Unbeaten since July, Pohang is the league’s form team and could yet grab the runner up spot from Suwon. The team, based around young Korean talent like Son Joon-Ho and Kim Seung-Dae, has played some of the more attractive football in the league this season. Along with Pohang, both Seongnam FC and FC Seoul are battling it out for the final Asian Champions’ League place. Both sides started the season poorly before good runs allowed them to climb the table. Finally showing some consistency for the first time in his career, Seongnam’s Hwang Ui-Jo has scored thirteen times this season and has earned himself a call-up to the Korean national team. Seoul brought in two strikers to try and pull themselves out of their early season slump, the first being former Arsenal reserve and Monaco striker Park Chu-Young, who is looking to resurrect his career back at the club where he made his name after a nightmare few seasons

Jeonbuk started out of the blocks quickly, going unbeaten until the end of April, which gave them a sizeable lead at the top.

Former Arsenal reserve and Monaco striker Park Chu-Young is looking to resurrect his career back at the club where he made his name after a nightmare few seasons abroad. abroad. The club also brought in Daejeon forward Adriano, whose arrival, coinciding with a good run of form, gave FC Seoul fans hope, albeit brief, that they could push on and win the title.

Relegation Battle

Asian Champions’ League

K-League Challenge (second tier)

Korean football’s second tier has been spiced up this year with the formation of a second club in the capital. Seoul Eland, playing at the Jamsil Olympic Stadium, started the campaign with a stutter before finally finding form in the early summer. Eland striker Joo Min-Kyu has been the revelation of the season having spent last season as a midfielder before being converted into a striker by Eland boss Martin Rennie. Since then, his good form has led to calls for him to be brought into the national set-up and his wonder strike against Gyeongnam was almost a carbon copy of James Rodriguez’s Puskas Award winning volley for Colombia in the 2014 World Cup.

Steven Price is the chief writer for http://www.kleaguefootball.com/

http://www.seouldarts.net/ 7.30pm to 10.30pm Bars from around Seoul including SinBin, Scrooges, Wolfhound and others Bars around the Itaewon and HBC area (every Monday at Sin Bin Bar)

Nov 4 / every Wednesday Itaewon Pool League Rounds http://www.itaewonpool.org/ 7.30pm onwards Scrooge Pub Wonky Triangles, Shenanigans Boomtown Rats, Rising Stars, Dolce Vita Angry Birds and others Bars around the Itaewon area including Scrooge, Sin Bin, JR Pub, Dolce Vita and others.

Nov 4,5 2015 Seoul Super Series Baseball Friendlies 6.30pm Korea vs Cuba Gocheok Sky Dome

Nov 7 and each Saturday Seoul Baseball League matches 9am onwards Route 66, Dillingers, Phillies, Wolfhound and Beer O’Clock Gwacheon Government Complex (Line 4)

Nov 7 and every Saturday Seoul Gaels GAA training

https://www.facebook.com/ seoul.gaels 2pm to 6pm Seoul Gaels Men’s and Ladies’ Gaelic Football teams / Hurling and Camogie teams Yongsan Army Base

Nov 8 Premier 12 Baseball Tournament Curtain raiser 7pm Japan vs. Korea Sapporo Dome, Japan

Nov 8 to Sat. 21 Premier 12 Baseball Tournament

Different Times 12 countries from around the world including Korea, Japan, Cuba. Taiwan and Japan

Nov 14 Korea Expat Rugby Association

All day with a 10am start Expatriate rugby teams from around Korea including Seoul Survivors, Jeonnam, and Busan Bandits Daegu https://www.facebook.com/ SeoulSurvivors

Nov 28 Seoul Survivors Movember Shave-off

6pm start but a bbq is planned for earlier in the day SinBin Sports Bar https://www.facebook.com/ SeoulSurvivors

Nov 28 UFC – Fight Night Seoul

6.45pm Benson Henderson vs Thiago Alves / Dong-hyun Kim vs. Jorge Masvidal and more Olympic Park Gymnasium Arena Exit 3.

Nov 29 Itaewon Pool League

4pm start Locations around Itaewon http://www.itaewonpool.org/

November 2015 www.groovekorea.com 73

Army side Sangju Sangmu led the table for most of the season before a collapse left them struggling for even a play-off spot. Daegu’s impressive form in September has given them a good chance of returning to the K-League Challenge either as champions or via play-offs where second to fourth compete against the second bottom team in the K-League Classic (that’s you, Busan I’Park). Former top-flight sides Gangwon and Gyeongnam have both been disappointments scrapping near the foot of the table while FC Seoul fan side FC Anyang has been unable to replicate the form that almost brought it to the play-offs in its debut season by managing a little over a point a game.

Nov 2 / every Monday Seoul International Darts League

www.seoulmartialarts.com/ 3pm to 5pm Women’s open mat practice Body and Seoul in Kyungridan

Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)

Despite all four Korean teams getting through the group stages, this season has been a disappointment in continental competition. Japanese side Gamba Osaka comfortably dispatched FC Seoul in the first knockout round before eliminating Jeonbuk Motors with a last minute goal in the quarter finals. Seongnam couldn’t get past a strong Guangzhou Evergrande side, and Suwon was knocked out after losing on away goals to another J-League side in Kashiwa Reysol.

Time: TBC Seoul Golden Eagles vs. Samsung Blue Storm Geoje Island https://www.facebook.com/ groups/184238701623158/

Nov 8 Brazilian Jiu Jitsu Open Mat Rollathon

SPORTS

With only 13 points after 33 games, newly promoted Daejeon barely registered a fight and will be returning to the K-League Challenge next season. Busan hasn’t been a lot better, and will be hoping that a change of manager can give them the boost needed for the end of season relegation play-off. Ulsan and Jeonnam’s starts to the campaign could hardly have been more different, with Jeonnam in contention for the title at one point before a collapse in form left them stranded in the bottom half of the league. Ulsan started the season poorly but has picked up a lot of points recently with star striker Kim Shin-Wook finding his scoring boots and looking a good bet for this season’s golden boot award.

Nov 1 1st play-off round for the Gwanggaeto Bowl

LISTINGS Edited by Sean Choi (sean@groovekorea.com)

EMBASSIES American Embassy (02) 397-4114 • 188 Sejong-daero, Jongno-gu, Seoul Canadian Embassy (02) 3783-6000 • (613) 996-8885 (Emergency Operations Center) Jeongdonggil (Jeong-dong) 21, Jung-gu, Seoul British Embassy (02) 3210-5500 • Sejong-daero 19-gil 24, Jung-gu, Seoul Australian Embassy (02) 2003-0100 • 19th fl, Kyobo bldg., 1 Jongno 1-ga, Jongno-gu, Seoul Philippine Embassy (02) 796-7387~9 • 5-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

Novotel Ambassador Gangnam (02) 567-1101 • 603 Yeoksam 1-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

Seoul Samsung Hospital 1599-3114 • 50 Irwon-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

Grand Hilton Seoul (02) 3216-5656 • 353 Yeonhui-ro, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul

Asan Medical Center 1688-7575 • 88 Olympic-ro 43-gil, Songpa-gu, Seoul

Somerset Palace Seoul (02) 6730-8888 • 85 Susong-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul

Keimyung University Dongsan Medical Center (053) 250-7167 (7177 / 7187) • 56 Dalseong-ro, Jung-gu, Daegu

Park Hyatt Seoul (02) 2016-1234 • 606 Teheran-ro, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Lotte Hotel Busan (051) 810-1000 • 772 Gaya-daero, Busanjin-gu, Busan Park Hyatt Busan (051) 990-1234 • 51, Marine City 1-ro, Haeundae-gu, Busan 612-824, Korea

Airlines Korean Air 1588-2001 Asiana Airlines 1588-8000

Yongsan Intl. School (02) 797-5104 • San 10-213 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Seoul Intl. School (031) 750-1200 • 388-14 Bokjeong-dong, Sujeong-gu, Seongnam, Gyeonggi-do Branksome Hall Asia (02) 6456-8405 • Daejung-eup, Seogipo-si, Jeju Island Daegu Intl. School (053) 980-2100 • 1555 Bongmu-dong, Dong-gu, Daegu

Dulwich College Seoul

Garuda Indonesia (02) 773-2092 • garuda-indonesia.co.kr

Dulwich College Seoul offers an exemplary British-style international education (including IGCSE and IBDP) for over 600 expatriate students aged 2 to 18 from over 40 different countries. 6 Sinbanpo-ro 15-gil, Seocho-gu, Seoul, Korea. www.dulwich-seoul.kr admissions@dulwich-seoul.kr 02-3015-8500

EMERGENCY MEDICAL CENTERS Jeju Air 1599-1500

French Embassy (02) 3149-4300 • 30 Hap-dong, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul

Gangnam St-Mary’s Hospital 1588-1511 • 222 Banpo-daero, Seocho-gu, Seoul

T’way Air 1688-8686

Yonsei Severance Hospital (Sinchon) (02) 2227-7777 • 50 Yonsei-ro, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul

British Airways (02) 774-5511

Seoul National University Hospital 1339 • 28-2 Yeongeon-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul

Delta Airlines (02) 754-1921

Banyan Tree Club & Spa Seoul (02) 2250-8080 • San 5-5, Jangchung-dong 2-ga Jung-gu, Seoul

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS

Lufthansa (02) 2019-0180

Spanish Embassy (02) 794-3581 • 726-52 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

HOTELS & RESORTS

FAMILY & KIDS

Jin Air 1600-6200

Cathay Pacific Airways (02) 311-2700

Emirates Airlines (02) 2022-8400

D ETUR

PO NS MU

NDO

Eton House Prep (02) 749-8011 • 68-3 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul A unique British-style Prep School for children of all nationalities from 2-13 years of age. A broad, challenging and innovative curriculum preparing pupils for senior school and life beyond. / www.etonhouseprep.com AMUSEMENT PARKS Everland Resort (031) 320-5000 • 310 Jeondae-ri, Pogok-eup, Cheoin-gu, Yongin-si, Gyeonggi-do Lotte World (02) 411-2000 0 • 240 Olympic-ro, Songpa-gu, Seoul Pororo Park (D-Cube city) 1661-6340 • 360-51 Sindorim-dong, Guro-gu, Seoul Children’s Grand Park (zoo) (02) 450-9311 • 216 Neungdong-ro, Gwangjin-gu, Seoul Seoul Zoo (02) 500-7338 • 159-1 Makgye-dong, Gwacheon-si, Gyeonggi-do BOOKSTORES What the Book? (02) 797-2342 • 176-2, Itaewon 1-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul • whatthebook.com Located in Itaewon, this English bookstore has new books, used books and children’s books. Kim & Johnson 1566-0549 • B2 fl-1317-20 Seocho-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul

HEALTH ORIENTAL MEDICINE Lee Moon Won Korean Medicine Clinic (02) 511-1079 • 3rd fl., Lee&You bldg. 69-5 Chungdam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Specializes in hair loss and scalp problems and offers comprehensive treatments and services including aesthetic and hair care products. Soseng Clinic (02) 2253-8051 • 368-90 Sindang 3-dong, Jung-gu, Seoul Yaksan Obesity Clinic (02) 582-4246 • 1364-7, Seocho 2-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul • www.dryaksan.com FITNESS Exxl Fitness Gangnam Finance Center, 737 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul • www.exxl.co.kr Daily Morning Ashtanga Yoga Mysore Classes (English) Jivamukti, Forrest, Universal Yoga (Korean) Apgujeong Rodeo Stn, Exit 4 (02) 515-6011• www.taoyoga.kr UROLOGY & OB Tower Urology (02) 2277-6699 • 5th fl. 119 Jongno 3-ga, Jongno-gu, Seoul

Animal hospitals Chunghwa Animal Hospital / Korea Animal Transport (02) 792-7602 • 21-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul / www.cwhospital.com

Hair & Joy Served as Art Director at London’s Renowned RUSH SALON and nominated by the Guardian for “Best Hairdresser”

Woori Pet Hospital (02) 393-6675 • 299-1 Youngcheon-dong, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul

MUSEUM & GALLERIES National Museum of Korea (02) 2077-9000 • 168-6 Yongsandong 6-ga, Yongsan-gu, Seoul The NMK offers educational programs on Korean history and culture in English and Korean. National Palace Museum of Korea (02) 3701-7500 • 12 Hyoja-ro, Jongno-gu, Seoul This museum has a program called Experiencing Royal Culture designed for English teachers to help learn about Joseon royal culture. Seodaemun Museum of Natural History (02) 330-8899 • 141-52 Yeonhui-dong, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul Don’t know where to take your kids on weekends? This museum exhibits a snapshot of the world and animals. National Museum of Contemporary Art, Korea (02) 2188-6000 • 313 Gwangmyeong-ro, Gwacheon-si, Gyeonggi-do Leeum Samsung Museum of Art (02) 2014-6901• 747-18 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul 10:30 a.m.-6 p.m. Closed on Mondays, New Year’s Day, Lunar New Year and Chuseok holidays. Kumho Museum (02) 720-5114 • 78 Sagan-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul 10 a.m.-6 p.m. Closed on Mondays. Gallery Hyundai (02) 734-6111~3 • 22 Sagan-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul The first specialized art gallery in Korea and accommodates contemporary art. 10 a.m.-6 p.m. Closed on Mondays, New Year’s Day, Lunar New Year and Chuseok holidays. Plateau (02) 1577-7595 • 50 Taepyung-ro 2-ga, Jung-gu, Seoul 10 a.m.-6 p. m. Closed on Mondays. National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art, Seoul (MMCA SEOUL) (02) 3701-9500 • 30 Samcheong-ro, Sogyeok-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul Daegu Art Museum (053) 790-3000 • 374 Samdeok-dong, Suseong-gu, Daegu Art space for local culture presenting Daegu’s contemporary fine arts and internationally renowned artists.

Trained at Toni & Guy and Vidal Sassoon Academy in UK Color, Perm, Magic Straight, Treatment and more English Spoken For more info, call Johnny Phone 02.363.4253 Mobile 010.5586.0243

Hair&Joy

Mapo-gu Dong gyo-dong 168-3_ 3F Seven Uniqlo Springs

HonhIk Univ. Stn. Line2 Exit8

www.hairandjoy.com Gangnam Apgujeong Branch

Qunohair

Phone 02.549.0335 www.qunohair.com 10-6, Dosan-daero 45-gil, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

T-M-A-S Total Martial Arts System SPECIALIZING IN TRAINING MARTIAL ARTS FOR EXPAT Established in 2008, we are the first and only professional martial arts studio tailored toward the foreign adult and child community in Korea. Over the last 8 years we have trained 2000+ expat students from 32 countries in a traditional Korean syllabus. Our instructors are highly experienced in teaching both adults and children of all ages and levels, from toddler to professional fighter. All classes are conducted in English by certified Korean Masters! Total martial arts system www.t-m-a-s.com 02-796-7976/ 010-8944-2198 totalmartialartssystem@gmail.com TMAS

Hamilton Hotel

Itaewon Main St. Tom N Toms

Gecko’s

Olive Young

For free trail lesson please contact to totalmartialartssystem @gmail.com or 010-8944-2198

From exit 1 of itaewon Station, go straight towards Nosapyeong for 70 meters, We are on the third floor, directly across the street from Tom n Tom’s Coffee.

NOVEMBER 2015

Maps

Itaewon (including Haebangchon and Gyeongnidan) Garosugil l Seochon l Hongdae l Myeong-dong

The establishments on our maps are carefully selected and based solely on recommendations from our editors, foodies and readers. Groove strictly separates these pages from commercial advertisements. These maps are only intended to serve the interests and cravings of our readers

Pick up GROOVE at your local

Lee Moon Won Korean Medicine Clinic 3rd Fl., Lee & You Bldg., 69-5 Cheongdam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul / (02) 511-1079 Treatment for hair loss and scalp problems. One-stop services including aesthetic and hair care products.

Starbucks

Over 570 locations throughout Korea

National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art, Grand Hilton Seoul Seoul branch H Samcheongdong / Gyeongbokgung Bukchon Gwanghwamun (Palace) Square Daehakro (Hyehwa-dong) Somerset Palace Seoul Insadong Sinchon (Yonsei Univ. & H Myeong Ewha Womans Univ.) Dongdaemun H dong Deoksugung Lotte Hotel Seoul Market Sheraton Grande Hongdae (Hongik Univ.) H Grand Ambassador Seoul (Palace) H Walkerhill H Banyan Tree Seoul Esarang N Seoul Tower H Grand Hyatt Seoul Today Dental Clinic Itaewon Dental Lee Moon Won Korean Medicine Conrad Seoul H Olympic Park Clinic 63 City Building Garosugil National Museum COEX H Lotte World H H H H of Korea Sheraton Seoul D Cube Novotel Park Hyatt Seoul City Hotel H The Ambassador JW Marriott Ritz-Carlton Gangnam Grand Intercontinental Seoul Seoul Gangnam Seoul Seoul Parnas Bright Eye Clinic Gangnam Station Seoul Arts Center

Gyeongbokgung (Palace) Gyeongbokgung was the first royal palace built by the Joseon Dynasty in 1395, three years after the dynasty was founded. Gyeongbokgung served as the main palace of the Joseon Dynasty and represented its sovereignty. It is the largest of the Five Grand Palaces, the others being Gyeonghuigung, Deoksugung, Changgyeonggung and Changdeokgung. Deoksugung (Palace) The changing of the Royal Guard and the patrol ritual take place here. The palace is unique for its modern seal engraving and a Western-style garden and fountain. N Seoul Tower Formerly known as Namsan Tower. Its main attractions include multicolored digital art projected onto the tower at night, a digital observatory and a roof terrace. Cheonggyecheon (stream) An 11-kilometer-long modern stream that runs through downtown Seoul, created as part of an urban renewal project. Cheonggyecheon is a restoration of the stream that existed during the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910). Myeongdong Cathedral Myeongdong Cathedral is the very first Roman Catholic parish church in Korea. It is also the first Gothic building ever built in Korea and was designated as Historic site No. 285 in Korea.

지도상의 업장들은 Groove Korea의 기자, 음식 전문가, 독자들의 객관적인 의견을 반영하여 세심하게 선별된 곳들입니다. 대부분의 업장들은 Groove Korea가 직접 방문한 후 꼼꼼한 평가를 통해 독자들에게 자신있게 추천하는 소위 ‘HOT’ 한 곳들이며, 해당 지역을 연인, 가족 혹은 친구들과 방문할 때 기분좋은 경험을 하실 수 있도록 제작되었습니다. 지도상의 업장들은 매달 업데이트가 되며, 광고와는 무관합니다.

National Museum of Korea The six-story building of the National Museum of Korea is ranked as the sixth-largest museum in the world. 63 City Building The 63 City skyscraper is a Yeouido landmark commanding spectacular views of the city. Standing 249 meters high and comprising 60 floors and three basement levels, 63 City is one of Korea’s tallest and most recognized buildings. Dongdaemun Market It is Korea’s largest wholesale and retail shopping district featuring 26 shopping malls, 30,000 speciality shops and 50,000 manufacturers. All kinds of goods can be found here including silk and fabric, clothes, shoes and accessories, electronics, leather goods, sporting goods, office supplies, pet products and toys. Gwanghwamun Square Gwanghwamun Square is divided into six sections. At its center stands a statue of King Sejong the Great, the fourth and most respected king of the Joseon Dynasty and creator of Hangeul, the Korean alphabet; and a statue of Admiral Yi Sunshin, a naval commander noted for his victories against the Japanese navy during the Japanese invasions of Korea (1592-1598) and a national hero.

Lotte World Opened in 1989, Lotte World is a major recreation National Museum of Modern and complex in downtown Seoul. It consists of Indoor Contemporary Art, Seoul branch Adventure (the world’s largest indoor theme park), Opened in 2013, the MMCA consists of a small number an outdoor theme park called Magic Island, a luxury of separate national art museums focusing on different hotel, the Korean Folk Museum, shopping malls, aspects of post-19th-century art. The Seoul museum department stores, sports facilities and a movie spotlights “cutting-edge and international art.” theater, all in one place.

Today Dental 3 Fl., 630-19 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul 1899-2854 Dental clinic specialized in cosmetic and general dentistry including dental implant and laminate. Oracle Clinic (Chungdam branch) 333 Bongeunsa-ro, Gangnam-gu, Seoul 1800-7588 Dermatologic and plastic surgery clinic with the largest number of branches in Korea 70+ overseas and domestic. Esarang Dental Clinic 26-16 Singongdeok-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul (02) 701-2199 Its internationally trained staff welcomes patients with heartfelt smiles. Dr.Kim’s Skin Laser & Esthetic Clinic (은피부과) 3 Fl., 85-2 Cheongdam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul (02) 546-3322 Offering a comprehensive dermatological services for all ages and skins Gangnam Seoul Bright Eye Clinic 18 & 19 Fl., Mijin Plaza, 390 Gangnam-daero, Gangnam-gu, Seoul / 1588-3882 Experienced staffs with 10.000+ operations of LASIK & LASEK.

Grand Hyatt Seoul 322 Sowol-ro, Yongsan-gu, Seoul (02) 797-1234 The Ritz-Carlton Seoul 120 Bongeunsa-ro, Gangnam-gu, Seoul (02) 3451-8000 Conrad Seoul 23-1 Yeouido-dong, Youngdeungpo-gu, Seoul (02) 6137-7000 Park Hyatt Seoul 606 Teheran-ro, Gangnam-gu, Seoul (02) 2016-1234 Sheraton Grande Walkerhill 177 Walkerhill-ro, Gwangjin-gu, Seoul (02) 2022-0000 JW Marriott Seoul 176 Shinbanpo-ro, Seocho-gu, Seoul (02) 6282-6262 Grand Intercontinental Seoul Parnas 521 Teheran-go, Gangnam-gu, Seoul (02) 555-5656 Somerset Palace Seoul 7 Yulgokro 2-gil, Jongro-gu, Seoul (02) 6730-8888 Novotel Ambassador Gangnam 130 Bongeunsa-ro, Gangnam-gu, Seoul (02) 567-1101 Banyan Tree Club & Spa Seoul San 5-5, Jangchung-dong 2-ga Jung-gu, Seoul (02) 2250-8080 Grand Ambassador Seoul 287 Dongho-ro, Jung-gu, Seoul (02) 2275-1101

R1 Bao Asian A4 (02) 797-4769 • 658 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

Cafe / Bakery / DESSERT Hair salon / spa

R10

Hanjin Villa

RESTAURANT

R3 Buddha’s Belly Thai A4 (02) 793-2173 • 673 Itaewon 2-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

PUB / LOUNGE Shopping

R17 R5

L1 Magpie Brewing Microbrewery A3 (02) 742-2849 • 691 Itaewon 2-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

We carry Platinum craft Beer

R4 Burger Mine Burgers A2 070-8263-2034 • 45-9 Yongsan-dong 2-ga, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

Namsan Daerim Apts.

C2 The Baker’s Table Bakery Cafe A3 070-7717-3501 • 691 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

R5 Casablanca Moroccan A2 (02) 797-8367 • 44-8 Yongsan-dong 2-ga, Yongsan-gu, Seoul R8

R6 Pizzarium Pizza A5 (02) 312-7580 • 529 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

R18

Hanjin Villa

Hansin Apts.

C2 L1 R9

R19

Buy the Way cvs

MG Community Credit Cooperatives

Wellbeing Mart Seoul Digitech High School

IBK R22 L9 L11 L10 R1

R8 HBC Gogitjib Korean bbq A2 (02) 796-5528 • 46-5 Yongsandong 2-ga, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

R23

GS25 cvs R3

L6 Bonny’s Pizza & Pub Pub A2 (02) 792 0303 • 44-17 Yongsan-dong 2-ga, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

R15

R24

L7 Maloney’s Pub & Grill Pub b3 (02) 3785-1675 • 225-67 Itaewon 2-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

R13 R12 R6

Itaewon Post Office

Pacific Mansion Gold

R9 The Booth Pizza b3 (02) 1544-4723 • 705 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

CU cvs Rose Hill Villa

Itaewon Cheil Church

Itaewon Elementary School

Hyundai Villa

2 Itaewon Villa

Green Mart

ksa

pye

ong

R19 Kkaolli pochana Thai B3 (070) 8872-1995 • 706 Itaewon 2-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul A hole-in-the-wall Thai restaurant serving real Thai with generous portions at cheap price.

R10 Jacoby’s Burgers Burgers A1 (02) 3785-0433 • 45-6 Yongsan-dong 2-ga, Yongsan-gu, Seoul R12 Taco Chili Chili Mexican A5 (02) 797-7219 • 527 Itaewon 2-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul R13 Trevia Italian A4 (02) 794-6003• 557 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Their pizzas are Roman-style; the thin, crispy dough comes out of the oven literally smoking hot. R15 Mi Madre Spanish A4 (02) 790-7875 • 568 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

Stn

L9 Craftworks Taphouse Microbrewery A3 (02) 794-2537 • 238 Noksapyeong-daero, Yongsan-gu, Seoul The first expat-owned microbrewery in Korea still offers some of the best brews around. Try out their seasonal tastes in a warm and inviting ambience.

R17 Kusina Filipino A2 (02) 790-1826 • 44-7 Yongsan-dong 2-ga, Yongsan-gu, Seoul R18 Pizzaria Retro Italian B3 (02) 749-8947 • 712 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul L10 The Springs tap house craft beer A4 (02) 795-7732 • 238 Noksapyeong-daero, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

S1 The Nail Bar NAIL SHOP B4 (02) 794-8549 • Manicure, pedicure, tanning and waxing

L11 Pier 39 bar A4 (02) 749-0339 • 658 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

R23 MEATBALLISM Burger C3 (02) 792-5161 • 225-143 Itaewon 2-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

R22 Don Charly MEXICAN A4 (070) 8154-4475 • 250-12 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Authentic Mexican by Mexican chef

L13 UPPER DECK Sports bar B3 (02) 749-1223 • 305-5 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul. American sports bar & Grill

R24 ROBOT kimbap Kimbap A4 (02) 794-9595 • 563 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

C3 Street Churros Dessert Café A4 (02) 792-1489 • 557 Itaewon 2-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

C4 Once Upon A Milkshake Dessert Café A3 (070) 7435-3513 • 638 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

ITAEWON (GYEOngnidan & HAEbangchon)

Yongsandong Apts.

Embassy of The Republic of the Philippines

2 1

Hangangjin Stn.

ITAEWON (GYEOngnidan & HAEbangchon)

Itaewon (OVERVIEW)

Grand Hyatt Seoul Hotel

R14

Leeum Museum

R15 F4

Itaewon Elementary School

ITAEWON (main)

R23

ksa

R11

pye 3 ong S

tn.

L10

R2 Linus BBQ SANDWICH B3 (02) 790-2920 • 56-20 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Pulled pork sandwich, Brisket sandwich, coleslaw, mac and cheese

R11 On The Border Mexican D3 (02) 792-0682 www.ontheborder.co.kr Authentic Mexican restaurant with homemade dishes and freshest ingredients with 25 margaritas to choose from.

L3 Reilly’s Taphouse bar C3 (02) 792-6590 • 3F. 123-32 Itaewon 1-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Reilly’s Taphouse boasts some 20 draft beers and is committed to carrying the best craft brews from Korea and around the world. R7 Joongsim Korean B3 (02) 2235-0707 • 34-39 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

RESTAURANT

We carry Platinum craft Beer

R19

R9 Le Saigon Vietnamese B3 (02) 792-0336 • 74-33 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

F1 What The Book English bookstore B3 (02) 797-4342 • 2F. 176-2 Itaewon 1-dong, Yongsan-gu,Seoul Located in Itaewon, this English bookstore has new books, used books and childrens’ books. www.whatthebook.com

Hair salon / spa

Shopping

L1 Craftworks Taphouse Microbrewery A1 (02) 794-2537 • 238 Noksapyeong-daero, Yongsan-gu, Seoul The first expat-owned microbrewery in Korea still offers some of the best brews around. Try out their seasonal tastes in a warm and inviting ambience. R1 HBC Gogitjib (Haebangchon branch) A1 Korean bbq (02) 796-5528 • 46-5 Yongsandong 2-ga, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

R4 Vatos Urban Tacos Mexican B3 (02) 797-8226 • 181-8 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul A unique ambience makes this upscale restaurant an ideal place to fill your stomach with authentic favorites.

R16

PUB / LOUNGE

R2 C2

Cheil L7

Cafe / Bakery / DESSERT

IP Boutique Hotel

L3 Hamilton Hotel 2 1 Itaewon Stn. 3 4

Hannam Foreigner’s Apts.

Bokwang Elementary School

L5 Wolfhound Irish pub C3 (02) 749-7971 • 128-6 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul L7 Rocky Mountain Tavern bar D3 010-6654-7202 • 736-12 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

C2 The Lab Store by STREET CHURROS CafE A3 • 34-42 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

R15 Nari Jib Korean bbq D2 (02) 793-4860 • 738-24 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Samgyupsal and Cheonggukjang (pork BBQ and soybean paste pot stew) C3 Richesse Velours Cafe D2 (02) 797-8878 • 741-17 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Try its signature dessert menu item, bottled cupcakes. S2 One Spa Therapy SPA & massage D2 (02) 749-0409 • 3rd fl., 124-7 Itaewon 1-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul, Spa and massage packages starts at 20,000w. R16 Gida Sushi Japanese D2 (02) 749-3558 • 683-125 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Sushi bar with reasonable prices. L8 Yuda Japanese bar D2 (02) 388-5081 • 683-126 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul L9 Muntaro Japanese bar D2 (02) 796-7232 • 683-124 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

F3 High Street Market Grocery shop for imported items D3 (02) 2201-0652 • 727-24 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul One-stop shop for imported groceries and coveted deli products.

L10 Bull & Barrel Sports bar B3 (010) 9982-2423 • 44-82, Itaewon 1-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul A new hybrid bar and restaurant with a huge terrace and roof top and a state-of-the-art Dart Bar to throw at.

F4 Beaker Shopping D2 (070) 4118-5216 • 738-36 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Discover a wide array of fashion items by the best international designers including James Perse, Aspesi, Rag&Bone, Vince, Jack Spade and more.

R19 Left Coast Artisan burgers BURGER C3 (02) 6248-2998 • 131-20 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu. Seoul

R14 Pizzeria D’Buzza Italian E1 (02) 794-9474 • 743-33 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul This trendy joint has a full range of Italian fare. Make sure to make a reservation.

Place to relax and unwind Oriental massage and Spa packages for couples available

R23 Miya Got The Balls Italian A3 (070) 4231-4346 • 549, Itaewon 2-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Korean-American chef from Master Chef Korea serving homemade meatballs, pasta and porchetta.

ONE SPA THERAPY

Foot massage 20,000w Full body massage starts at 30,000w

02-749-0409 (02) 793-2344

This tropical resort-themed lounge is a getaway from bustling city.

Seoul, Yongsan-gu, Itaewon-dong 112-3 Sun-Thu: 4:30 pm – 3 am Fri-Sat: 4:30 pm – 5 am

3rd fl. 124-7 Itaewon 1-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

(3 mins from Itaewon subway stn.)

10am – 5am

ITAEWON (MAIN)

Cafe / Bakery / DESSERT Hair salon / spa

RESTAURANT PUB / LOUNGE Shopping We carry Platinum craft Beer

L10 L19 L11

R14

R11

R16

D’oro Hotel

R6 L17

R10 L9 L8

R22 R2

R13

Hamilton Hotel L1

L16

Shinhan Bank

T-M-A-S

Itaewon Stn.

R20

Itaewon Fire Station

R17

L13

L18 R21

7-Eleven cvs

IBK

ITW Hotel

CU cvs CU cvs

R19

R1 Bulldogs HOTDOG D4 (02) 6248-2998 • 131-20 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu. Seoul R2 HBC Gogitjib (Itaewonbranch) Korean bbq A2 (02) 796-5528 • 118-9 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

L13 Dillinger’s pub B3 (02) 793-7232 • 72-32 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

R19 Marrakech Night Moroccan D4 (02) 795-9441 • 131-3 Itaewon-dong

R10 Maple Tree House Korean bbq C2 (02) 790-7977 • 116-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

L16 Reilly’s Taphouse bar D2 (02) 792-6590 • 3F. 123-32 Itaewon 1-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

R11 Ho Lee Chow Chinese C2 (02) 793-0802 • 119-25 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul L1

L10 All that Jazz Jazz club D2 (02) 795-5701 • 112-4 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

R21 Un Deux Trois French D2 (02) 796-1244 • 123-33 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul An authentic French brasserie where traditions and trends mix, symbolizing a Parisian way of life

R13 My Thai Asian D2 (02) 794-8090 • 123-20 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

L17

R14

L1 Rose & Crown pub A2 (02) 794-2555 • 118-23 Itaewon 1-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Classic British pub specializes in ales and carries 40+ draft and bottled beers R5 Zelen Bulgarian B2 (02) 749-0600 • 116-14 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul R6 Le saint EX French B2 (02) 795-2465 • 119-28 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul L5 Baby Guinness pub B2 (02) 792-2777 • 119-17 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul R7 Pattaya Thai B2 (02) 793-4888 • 116-14 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul L6 Gecko’s Avenue Lounge C2 (02) 790-0540 • 116-6 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

R14 Jonny Dumpling 2 Chinese D2 (02) 790-8839 • 123-5 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

L17 The Glamping Bar&Grill A2 (02) 792-3189 • 171-23 Itaewon-dong L11 Jeon Mandang Korean bar D2 Recreate the feel of outdoor camping (070) 8749-5004 • 118-18 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul and BBQ cuisine in the warm indoors. L9 Prost pub C2 (02) 796-6854 • 116-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

R18 Don Valley Korean bbq C3 (02) 796-2384 • 127-12 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul R22 Battered Sole Fish & Chips A2 (02) 749-6867• 2 fl., 118-9 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

L8 Glam Lounge C2 (010) 2657-6853 • 116-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul R17 Gecko’s Terrace American C3 (02) 749-9425128-5 • Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul L8

R17

L18 Hollywood Grill Bar&Grill D2 (02) 749-1659 • 123-33 Itaewon 1-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul One of Itaewon’s favorite expat haunts. A real sports bar famed for its burgers and its broad range of pub fare. L19 The Bungalow Bar D2 (02) 793-2344 • 112-3 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul This tropical resort-themed lounge is a getaway from bustling city. L19

GArosugil (sinsa-dong)

Cafe / Bakery / DESSERT Hair salon / spa

R1 Elbon the table Italian A1 (02) 547-4100 • 530-5 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

RESTAURANT PUB / LOUNGE 1

Shopping

R2 Vatos Urban Tacos Mexican A1 (02) 548-8226 • 532-11 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

CU cvs

We carry Platinum craft Beer R1

Shingu

cvs

C1 La Eskimo Bakery B2 (02) 512-9244 • 546-3 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

Elementary School

7-Eleven

Starbucks

Imagestar

R4 Spain club Spanish A2 (02) 515-1118 • 524-30 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

C11

C12 C1

R6 The Original Pancake House Pancake A3 (02) 511-7481 • 523-20 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

C2 R6

R19

Hindol Villa

GS25 cvs

R10 R9 f3

C4 Godiva chocolate B3 (02) 517-3979 • 545-6 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

C8 C9

R11

R9 Sarubia Italian B4 (02) 540-7344 • 542-3 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

f2 f1

R10 Hansung Mungo B4

CU cvs

Japanese Ramyeon (02) 543-7901 • 2F. 542-3 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

L2 7-Eleven cvs

R11 Taco Chili Chili Mexican A4 (02) 545-1705 • 535-9 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

Starbucks R12

C2 Ikovox coffee Cafe A3 (02) 545-2010 • 534-10 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul R7 buccella sandwich B3 (02) 517-7339 • 534-22 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

R14

C6 Coffee Smith Cafe B5 (02) 3445-3372 • 536-12 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul L2 Wanso Izakaya C4 (02) 3444-2021 • 539-4 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

R12 Bibigo Korean B5 (02) 544-7423 • 2F. 537-5 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

IBK

GS25 cvs

R16

Sin

. Stn

R15

S-oil gas Station

Youngdong Hotel

R19 Ozit Gastro pub B3 • 544-5 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul New addition to Garosugil serving sandwich, burgers and salads with the finest craft beer.

f1 Massimo Dutti Shopping B4 (02) 545-6172 • 541-7 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul f2 8 seconds Shopping B4 (070) 7090-1144 • 535-12 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul C9 Ben’s Cookies Cookies A4 (02) 514-0051 • 518-10 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul f3 Ralph Lauren POLO Shopping B4 • 535-18 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul R14 March Rabbit Veggie C3 (02) 3444-4514 • 560 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul R15 Yum Thai Thai C5 (02) 594-7988 •5-4 Nonhyun-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul R16 Songok Korean b5 (02) 545-3297 • 2 fl.537-7 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Since 1961, it’s been serving one of Korea’s best UDON, SOBA and DONKATSU. Strongly recommended for casual dining.

C12 Mercy Juice JUICE B2 (02) 547-3595 • 551-11 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Cleanses using 100% supernatural cold-pressed juice

C11 Remicone ICECREAM B2 (02) 6207-1029 • 547-12 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Ice cream haven.

L4 Hanchu PUB B1 (02) 541-0969 • 549-9 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Awarded ‘The best crispy fried chicken in Seoul’ by Chowzter. Get a side of pork stuffed and fried chili peppers.

C8 Tokyo Panya Bakery C4 (02) 547-7790 • 543-8 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

L5 De Chou Lounge C4 (02) 514-2014 • B1 fl. 540-19 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Carries unique Korean traditional soju not found in anywhere else. Pricey but absolutely worth exploring masterpieces by local brewers.

7-eleven cvs

Seochon (서촌), located west of the Gyeongbokgung Palace, literally “West village” / “Western village”, is one of the oldest neighborhoods of Seoul, traditionally associated with Joseon era and Korean literature. Long neglected compared to the wealthier Bukchon (on the other side of the palace), Seochon has reclaimed part of its popularity, particularly following the protection of one of Seoul’s largest clusters of hanok (over 600), and the renovation of landmarks to host cultural venues. Experience the warm memories of the hidden old alleys of Seochon

Seochon

Starbucks

L8 L7 Church

R4 R3 Hyundai Motors

Dunkin Donuts

Paris Baguette

Geumcheongyo Market

Kia Motors

2 CU cvs

3 Gyeongbokg

ung Stn. (Line3)

L2 Bob Dylan & The Band Pub C3 (02) 739-6565 • 90 Chebu-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul 8pm - 2am

R1 Chebudong Janchijib (체부동잔치집) Korean D3 (02) 730-5420 • 190 Chebu-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoula Perilla seed noodle, seafood and green onion jeon (pancake) and spicy noodle recommended. 9:30 am – 1 am L1 Seochon Kyedanjib (서촌계단집) Pub C3 (02) 737-8412 • 11-1 Naeja-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul Two thumbs up! The best seafood tent-bar in Seoul. Serves the freshest seafood of the season daily delivered directly from the local fishermen.

R4 JeoNDaegamdaek (전대감댁) Korean C3 (070) 4202-5170 • 184 Chebu-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul Serves unique and various kinds of Makeoli. Its menu items are perfect for meals as well. L3 Cheolpannam (철판남) Pub A2 (070) 8776-6001 • 155-2 Philun-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul Teppan Yaki bar with Wagyu (Kobe) beef steak Reasonable steak menu price starting at 15,000 won. L4 Philun Sanghye (필운상회) Pub A2 Opened by the same owner of Cheolpannam (iron-pan man), serves anju to go with soju. Customers can order from Cheolpannam menu as well.

L7 Hyoja Barbe (효자바베) Pub B2 (070) 8749-0019 • 210-3 Chebu-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul Pork bbq, chicken and grilled prawns starting at 25,000 won.

L5 Anju Maeul (안주마을)

R2 Tongyoung Sangsungui (통영생선구이) Korean C3 (02) 739-3322 • 20 Naeja-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul Grilled fish and seafood restaurant

R3 Simsanae (심산애) Korean B3 (02) 734-1112 • 205-1 Philun-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul Strongly recommended its Deodeok Makeoli made of mountain herb harvested be the owner a real ginseng digger.

Pub D3 (02) 723-3529 • 1-2 Naej a-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul Cooked octopus and boiled cockles

L6 Passion Potato (열정감자) Pub C3 (070) 7778-4676 • 24 Naeja-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul Fried potatoes with various seasonings and coffee draught beer and citrus draught beer.

L8 Seochon 181 (서촌181) JAPANESE PUB C2 (02) 733-0181 • 181 Chebu-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul Japanese casual pub with many sake menu.

L9 Killi BanBan (킬리뱅뱅) PUB C3 (010) 5737-0852 • 23 Naeja-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul Spanish Hipster pub carrying the finest Platinum beer.

HongDae (HongIK Univ.)

5 Ho ng

Cafe / Bakery / DESSERT

Hair salon / spa .

Stn

Lotte Cinema S1

n St ik ng 8

RESTAURANT

PUB / LOUNGE

Stn

DANCE CLUB

We carry Platinum craft Beer

KFC

Coffee Bean R4 R1

Seokyo Elementary School

V-HALL

R17

Seokyo Prugio Apts. C1

Bobo Hotel

Smoothie King

VELOSO D7

Halla Mansion

D12

R16

Lotte Cinema

9 8

KT&G SangsangMadang

D9 L1

R11 R8

7-Eleven cvs

C2 C3

5 Ha

o je

R12

R13

2 1

Wau Park

PRISM HALL

D11

Hongik University

CLUB GOGOS CLUB TA 打 D10 CLUB EVANS CLUB FF R2

Jungang heights Apts.

St 6 n. 7

Freebird2 EVANS LOUNGE

Wau Park

R10 R18 C5

1 Sangsu Stn. 4

2 3

C1 Paul & Paulina Bakery C2 (02) 333-0185 • 344-6 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

C3 Museum café aA Cafe b3 (02) 3143-7312 • 408-11 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

R1 Primo Baciobaci Italian C1 (02) 323-0098 • 346-47 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

C4 Okrumong Cafe b3 (02) 325-4040 • 402-18 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

D1 Club Freebird 2 (Big Bird) Club b3 (02) 335-4576 408-17 Seogyo-dong, mapo-gu, Seoul Club playing live music by local artists and bands facebook.com/clubfreebird2

C2 Peony Cafe b3 (02) 333-5325 • 403-15 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

R10 Pakumori Curry Japanese curry b3 (02) 322-5001 • 411-15 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

D2 Club NB Club / hip-hop C2 • 362-4 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoull

R2 Yoonsi Milbang Korean C3 (02) 3143-4116 • 411-6 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

C5 Kyo bakery Bakery b3 (02) 794-5090 • 317-7 Sangsoo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

D5 Club M2 Club / electronic b2 • 367-11 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

R3 Sunny the Grill Italian b3 (02) 337-8951 • 401-19 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

R11 Hongdae Jopok Dukpoki Korean b3 (02) 337-9933 • 407-21 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

D6 Club Mansion Club / electronic b2 • 368-22 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

R4 La Paella Spanish C1 (02) 322-8870 • 2F. 345-3 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

R12 Aloha Table Hawaiian b2 (02) 324-7718 • 364-14 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

D7 Club Freebird Club / live music b2 • 364-22 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

R5 Hakadabunko Japanese RAMEN c3 (02) 338-5536 • 93-28 Sangsoo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

R13 Agio Italian C2 (02) 322-8133 • 364-6 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

D9 Club DGBD Club / live music b3 • 395-17 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

S1 Hair & Joy Hair Salon C1 (02) 363-4253 • 3F. 168-3 Donggyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

R16 Yeonga Korean BBQ b2 (02) 336-9992 • 366-13 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

D10 Club Gogos Club / rock c3 • 407-8 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

L1 Castle Praha Pub b3 (02) 337-6644 • 395-19 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

R17 Gusto Taco Mexican C2 (02) 3142-8226 • 342-16 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul Mexican traditionalism done right: an efficient balance of flavor and texture.

D11 Club NB2 Club / hip-hop C2 • 361-10 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

R8 No Stress Kitchen Italian b3 (02) 6083-1252 • 404-8 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

L2 Platinum Beer Pub Pub with craft beer C1 (070) 4143-8081• 345-24 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

D12 Club Cocoon Club / hip-hop C2 • 364-26 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

#liveishere Every last Friday on the month! Get your pass at 20,000 won, Access 10 hottest and funkiest clubs in Hongdae!

Euljiro 1(il)-ga Stn. 8 7 1 Lotte Hotel

7-Eleven cvs

5 6

KEB

Seoul

Mr. Pizza

Myeong-dong Tourist Information Center

Metro Hotel

Skypark Hotel [II]

7-Eleven cvs

Skypark Hotel [Central]

Lotte Duty Free

Lotte Avenuel

Lotte Cinema

Seoul YMCA

ABC Mart

Ibis Ambassador Hotel

Hadongkwan

Osulloc Tee house

Seoul Royal Hotel

Starbucks

Myeong-dong Donkatsu

Olive young

Myeong-dong Shinhan Bank Burger King Theater

Lotte Young Plaza

Jhill Hotel

Police Stn.

Nanta Theater

Andong Jjimdak Myeong-dong Catholic church

Olive young

Frisbee

Hamheung Myeonok

Chinese Embassy

Myeong-dong Kyoja Seoul lobal Cultural Center

Vips

Kyesung Girlsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;High School

CROCS

A-land

GS25 cvs

Savoy Hotel

Starbucks

NineTree Hotel Shinhan Bank

Quicksilver & Roxi

CGV

The Grand Hotel

Skypark Hotel [III] TOUSlesJOURS

Migliore

R1 Myeongdong Kyoja Korean D3 With more than 40 years of history, Myeongdong Kyoja has been loved by the locals for many years. The restaurant is popular for its Kalguksu, a Korean noodle dish that serves handmade noodles and other ingredients in a bowl of thick chicken broth. The mini dumpling toppings add a zesty touch while the crazy chili kimchi gives you garlic breath that may be hellish for your companion, but well worth it. The pork dumplings are also highly recommended. R2 Myeongdong Donkatsu Korean B2 Opened in 1983, this restaurant serves delicious donkatsu (Japanese pork cutlet). The secret is in aging thick slices of seasoned pork fillet (150kg total) for three to four days making the meat tenderer.

8 7 ng Stn. Myeong-do

R3 Andong Jjimdak Korean D2 Dak means chicken in Korean, and jjim means steamed, stewed or braised in a sauce. Andong Jjimdak, which originated from the city of Andong, is a spicy version that has become enormously popular since late 1990â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s. Braised in a sweet and savory braising liquid, the dish gets its spiciness from dried whole red chili peppers and fresh fiery hot green peppers called Cheongyang gochu. R4 Hadongkwan Korean D2 Opened in 1939, it is the most representative gomtang (traditional Korean soup boiled with beef bone) restaurant in Seoul. With its long history, Hadongkwan provides an authentic taste of gomtang and it only opens its door until 4:30pm.

Myeong-dong

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