Editorial
June 2015
T
Looking Beyond Stereotypes
o commemorate Pride Month, the June issue of Groove features Celeste Maturen’s discussion of the Korean LGBT movement and its fight for acceptance and equality. One of her sources, Korean-American expat vlogger Nick Neon, is making a film about an ordinary man in his 20s who also happens to be gay. Neon’s goal is to break down stereotypes. In what he calls his “gay rant” on YouTube, he says he’s proud of his sexuality but doesn’t want it to define him. He’s offended by the portrayals he’s used to seeing in the media, where so often the gay characters are eternally young and superficial. “Where are the gay doctors?” he asks. “Where is the visibility for, like, gay like teachers and, you know, gay families and gay parents …? When I see how I’m portrayed, I don’t see me looking back at me.”
O n
We at Groove are confident that Korea’s LGBT communities will overcome the challenges they are facing and hold the biggest Pride parade Seoul has ever seen. In 15 years, an event that began with just 50 people is expected to draw more than 25,000. That has to be an unparalleled success for a social justice movement. But as Neon’s videos show, there’s more work to do. Groove has always made it a point to look beyond stereotypes and feature issues that don’t get the mainstream media attention they deserve. Under the editorial direction of Elaine Ramirez and her dedicated team, Groove kept its focus on socially relevant content. As we finish the transition to our new editorial team, we want to thank them for making the magazine what it is today and we will continue to hold the magazine to the same high standards as our predecessors.
t h e
C O V E R
June 2015
Cover photo by Aleksandra Nems Cover design by Seong-eun Park A Balinese woman carries an offering to the spirits at the funeral of a local official. The flowers and food will be burned along with the body.
Correction The photos which appeared in the restaurant review for Lie Lie Lie in the May issue were taken by Peter Kim.
ISSUE
104
JU NE 2015
What’ s in thi s issue WE LCOME
COMMUNITY
FOOD AND DRINK
04 EDITORIAL
20 Canadaís Birthday
34 Manimal Smokehouse
Looking Beyond Stereotypes
12 KEY PEOPLE
Meet Groove’s editorial team and a few of our talented contributors
14 WHAT’S ON
Festivals, concerts, happy hours, networking and events for every day of the month
16 THE NEWS
Reservist runs amok killing two injuring two, QIA denies bidding for Landmark 72 3 indicted for plotting with Pyongyang to make drugs
Celebrations In Korea CanCham bring the Great White North’s celebrations to Seoul on June 27th.
22 Embracing the community
spirit, Gangnam Style Information, cultural activities and events at your fingertips as Yeoksam Global Village Center bring their own Gangnam Style to the capital.
24 Welcome to the Oddiverse
Step into Shawn Morrissey’s Oddiverse as the horror comic book author shares his secrets
A new neighborhood pub near Gyodae that will become your fave
37 Korean Chefs: Stop
Violating Our Cuisine! What compels some chefs to ruin a good thing?
38 PLANT
Vegetarian for the non-vegetarian in your life
26 Brewing up a Storm
28 Stay Amused This Summer
for a Dothraki Queen The Mother of Cocktails for the Mother of Dragons
5 men on a mission to bring the best in craft brews to Seoul
29 87MM: No Concept But Good www.groovekorea.com June 2015
36 Wink Kitchen & Taphouse
Cebu Grill and Live Bar A little Filipino fun
Spend the summer keeping cool and amused with this month’s look into the country’s Amusement Parks.
6
Smoke. Meat. Eat.
Fashion Sense Follow fashion brand 87MM founders Wonjoong Kim and Jiwoon Park’s journey from the catwalk to the designer boarda
IN SIGHT
30 Something to be Proud About Celebrating 16 years of Pride in Seoul
39 Khaleesi, A Drink
40 Grocery Find: Thirst
Quenching Beer Find Where to get the latest microbrews? Recipe: Grilled Beer Battered Ham & Cheese Sandwich Got leftover beer after that get together? Try this recipe.
41 Soda Ramyeon
Yes, kids are pouring soda in their ramyeon Restaurant Buzz Linus wins a competition. Some fine French dining. And more
ISSUE
104
JUNE 2015
What’ s in thi s issue
ENTERTAINMENT
TRAVEL
42 The Band that Loves Labels
52 Vibrant Colors Consumed by Fire
What’s in a name? Electro-rockers DTSQ get caught up in a storm of words with Groove.
44 Cinema UnLtd.
An exploration of a truly integral film project created by local and international talent.
46 KoreaFM.net
Chance Dorland’s new radio venture is ready to make airwaves.
47 V.O.G.U.E.
Dance sensation! Throwing shapes in Itaewon’s Cakeshop for Pride.
48 AT THE BOX OFFICE: THE BIG SCREEN
8
www.groovekorea.com June 2015
Jurassic World reviewed
A Bastion of Cinema It’s unique and it’s free! A look at what’s going on at Seoul’s cinematic gift.
49 Losers and Shakers
Both a review and a preview! Another opportunity to sample Jeonju’s film fare
In Bali, a funeral is cause for celebration: A loved one will soon be reborn
SPORTS
58 More than Just Grappling
Hitting the mat with a dynamic martial art
60 Soccer Saturday (and Sunday) There’s much more to soccer on the peninsula than just the K-League
66 One For The All-rounder
Going the half distance with Korea’s latest triathlon
68 Crossing Paths on
the 4River Bike Challenge Korea’s greatest cycling challenge
62 Seoul Sisters – A Decade On
Scrumming down with the Seoul Sister’s Rugby team
64 SAFE Campaign has no effect on the Joys of the KBO To beer or not to beer with the KBO’s new SAFE policy
65 The Beautiful Game
Canada prepares for one of the most exciting events in the soccer calendar
70
GROOVE LISTINGS
72 MAPS
KOREA 5th floor, Shinwoo Bldg. 5-7 Yongsan 3-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul, Korea.
Contact info (010) 5348-0212 / (02) 6925-5057 Advertising ads@groovekorea.com General inquiries info@groovekorea.com EDITORIAL
Community naheen madarbakus naheen@groovekorea.com Insight anita mckay anita@groovekorea.com FOOD & DRINK joe mcpherson food@groovekorea.com ENTERTAINMENT stewart mcfeat stewart@groovekorea.com TRAVEL eileen cahill eileen@groovekorea.com SPORTS liam ring liam@groovekorea.com ART & DESIGN
ART DIRECTOR seong-eun park sam@groovekorea.com PHOTO DIRECTOR dylan goldby photo@groovekorea.com W RITERS & CONTRIBUTORS
luke butcher, steve price, charlotte Hammond, luc tremblay, robbie nguyen, natalie ler-davies, jordan redmond, joe mcpherson, grace a lee, colleed chapco-wade, walter foreman, dave hazzan, naomi blenkinsop, celeste maturen, alexandra nems, liam ring, naheen madarbakus-ring, simon mcenteggart, kevin lambert, dean crawford, robert evans, stewart mcfeat, eric davis, dean Crawford, kevin lambert, peter kim, charlotte Hammond, joe mcpherson, amber sorensen (seoul sisters at 10 years), anna desmarais (brazilian jiu jitsu), johan stofberg, steve price (soccer saturday (and sunday), luc tremblay (seoul cycle), luke butcher, can cham korea, yeoksam global village center, martyn Thompson, seoulland, 87mm, maloney’s brewery, johannes hwang, dukhwa MARKETING & ADMINISTRATION
CFO steve seung-jin lee MARKETING DIRECTOR peter chong ACCOUNTING yi-seul oh W EB & MOBILE
himes design www.himesdesign.com finch professtional services www.finchproservices.com PUBLISHER
sean choi sean@groovekorea.com
To contribute to Groove Korea, email submissions@groovekorea.com or the appropriate editor. To write a letter to the editor, email editor@groovekorea.com. To have Groove Korea delivered to your home or business, email subscribe@groovekorea.com. To promote your event, email events@groovekorea.com. To advertise, email ads@groovekorea.com. The articles are the sole property of GROOVE MEDIA CO. Ltd. No reproduction is permitted without the express written consent of GROOVE MEDIA CO. Ltd. The opinions expressed in the magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher.
Š
All rights reserved Groove Korea Magazine 2015
Alexandra Nems
Celeste Maturen Celeste Maturen is a writer from a real place called Kalamazoo. Her true loves are New York City, fashion, everything Junot Diaz and Barbara Kingsolver and getting lost in new places. She teaches writing at a university in Ulsan and much to her surprise enjoys mountain living, aside from the wild boars. She blogs occasionally at celestematuren.com.
Luke Butcher
12 www.groovekorea.com June 2015
Author Luke Butcher is freelance sports journalist who works full time at the National Election Commission of South Korea. He has also worked as sports reporter for Arirang Radio’s morning show. Originally from the UK, he has taken interest in a wide variety of sports from football to baseball and tennis to racing. Luke provides English language analysis and features on Korean domestic sports and international sports of interest in Korea at waegukinsport.com.
Alexandra (Alex) Nems was raised in Poland, where she devoted herself to revitalizing the post-mining landscape. Later, she immersed herself in rural Ireland, where she earned an MBA in tourism. Alex lives in Gangwon Province, where she is enjoying a sort of a gap year.
Jordan Redmond A born-and-bred South Carolinian, Jordan has a deep appreciation for all things porcine and fierce opinions about mustard-based BBQ sauce. Other perennial palate-based pursuits include all things Mexican and Japanese as well as the perfect preparation of various types of caffeinated beverages. Follow him on Instagram @dwaegukin
Naomi Blenkinsop Naomi Blenkinsop lives in Seoul but originally hails from Quebec. After completing her degree, she lived in Montreal for many years before making the big move to South Korea. Now, she teaches EFL in Gangnam and loves working with children. When not in the classroom, she enjoys cooking, practising yoga or exploring new places around the peninsula.
MON
1
T UE
6
JUNE
W hat’ s ON WED
THU
q
FRI
9
4
12
Korea Queer Festival opening ceremony @ Seoul Plaza
ULTRA MUSIC FESTIVAL 2015 @ Olympic Stadium
18
15th Korea Queer Film Festival; 18-21
@ Lotte Cinema Broadway (Sinsa theater); www.kqff.co.kr
25
26
Musical
Music Show Wedding
@ Hongdae Music Show Wedding Theater; nanta.i-pmc.co.kr
Hongdae LIVE CLUB day!
14 www.groovekorea.com June 2015
CHICAGO
@ National Theater of Korea / Original casts / Jun 20 - Aug 8
Nanta
Musical @ Myeongdong or Chung jeongno Nanta Theaters; nanta.i-pmc.co.kr
FRIDA KAHLO
@ SOMA (Seoul Olympic Museum of Art) Jun 6-Sept 4
G am es i n J UNE KBO League game schedule
(schedules for Jamsil, Mokdong and Sajik only) J UNE
SAT
S UN
6
2-4
KIA vs. Doosan
Hanhwa vs. Nexen
LG vs. SK
Doosan vs. Nexen
LG vs. Doosan
KT vs. Lotte
Jamsil
Mokdong
J UNE
5-7
Jamsil
Mokdong
Kia vs. Lotte Saji k
J UNE
9-11
Jamsil
S aj ik
J UNE
12-14
MUSE IN CITY 2015 @ Olympic Park
Doosan vs. NC Jamsil
J UNE
16-18
LG vs. KIA
Lotte vs. Nexen
Lotte vs. Doosan
LG vs. Nexen
SK vs. Doosan
Samsung vs. Lotte
LG vs. NC
Nexen vs. Lotte
LG vs. Doosan
Samsung vs. Nexen
Jamsil
Mokdong
J UNE
19-21
Jamsil
Mokdong
J UNE
23-25
Jamsil
S aj ik
J UNE
26-28
Jamsil
S aj ik
J UNE
30-2
Jamsil
Mokdong
K League schedule K League Challenge
(schedules for Jamsil, Suwon, Ansan, Anyang, Goyang and Bucheon games only) J UNE
27
3
28
Seoul E-Land vs. Bucheon FC Bucheon
@ Seoul Plaza
Canada Day 2015
@ Changdeok Girls Middle School across from the Canadian Embassy. Canadian BBQ and lots of family friendly activities. www.canchamkorea.org
6 7
Ansan Police FC vs. Bucheon FC Ansan
13
FC Anyang vs. Sang ju Sangmu FC Anyang Suwon FC vs. Kyungnam FC Suwon
21
Seoul E-land vs. Sang ju Sangmu FC Jamsil
28
Ansan Police FC vs. Sang ju Sangmu FC Ansan Goyang Hi FC vs. Chung juHummel FC Goyang Goyang Hi FC vs. FC Anyang Jamsil
J UNE
28
Suwon Bluewings vs. Jeonbuk FC Suwon
J UNE
J UNE
27
Jeonbuk FC vs. Ulsan Hyundai Jeonju FC Seoul vs. Busan FC Seoul
Bucheon FC vs. Goyang FC Bucheon
J UNE
21
Suwon Bluewings vs. Seongnam FC Suwon
J UNE
J UNE
20
Suwon Bluewings vs. Gwang ju FC Suwon
J UNE
17
FC Anyang vs. Seoul E-land Anyang
J UNE
14
Jeonbuk FC vs. FC Seoul Jeonju
J UNE
J UNE
13
FC Seoul vs. Incheon Utd Seoul
J UNE
Goyang Hi FC vs. Suwon FC Goyang
J UNE
Korea Queer Festival Parade
3
J UNE
J UNE
10
(schedules for Seoul, Suwon and Jeonju stadiums games only) J UNE
Ansan Police FC vs. Gangwon FC Ansan Suwon FC vs. Chung ju Hummel FC Suwon
7
K League Classic
Seoul E-land vs. Ansan Police FC Ansan
Suwon Bluewings vs. FC Seoul Seoul Jeonbuk FC vs. Jeonnam FC Jeonju
N ati onal News
All stories are culled with consent from Korea JoongAng Daily’s website and edited by Groove Korea for length and clarity. The opinions expressed here do not necessarily represent those of Groove Korea. — Ed.
In association with June 2015 / www.koreajoongangdaily.com
Reservist runs amok killing two, injuring two
A
16 www.groovekorea.com June 2015
shooting spree during a Korean Army reserve forces training session in Seoul morning of May 13 killed three people and injured two others. One of the fatalities was the shooter,
who killed himself. During a shooting session on May 13 at a reserve forces training center in Seocho District, southeastern Seoul, a trainee named Choi was given a K-2 rifle with a magazine containing 10 bullets. After firing one round, Choi randomly fired seven times at fellow trainees standing in other firing lanes or waiting to shoot. Then he fatally shot himself, the Army explained. A trainee surnamed Park was shot in the head Philippines, decided to return after learning of the incident. The training center canceled its and pronounced dead on arrival at a hospital. Another trainee surnamed Yoon was shot in schedules for the day for the investigation. Investigators from the central investigative the neck and pronounced dead during the opunit of the Army and the National Forensic eration. Two people were injured in the shooting Service visited the base, and helicopters carspree. A reservist surnamed Hwang, who was rying general-level officers kept coming in and shot in the face, is unconscious. A reservist out of the base. Some parents of the trainees surnamed Ahn, shot in the chest, is reportedly who couldn’t determine if their sons were safe went to the base on the day. The trainees were conscious. The trainees were doing a three-day training ordered to call their family and let them know they were okay. session from May 12 and 14. K-pop singer Psy took part in the training The Ministry of National Defense subsequently held a press conference and apolo- session but later explained he left the base 20 minutes before the shooting spree because he gized for the incident. “We convey our sincerest condolences to had appointments in the afternoon. The Army those who died in the reserve forces training and Psy’s entertainment agency explained that session,” said Kim Min-seok, the ministry’s he will take part in another session to make up spokesman. “We will carry out a thorough in- for the session he missed. Criticism arose quickly that the training vestigation into the case and take measures to center did not have proper security measures. prevent similar cases.” Defense Minister Han Min-koo left the Na- “There was no such thing as security devictional Financial Strategy Meeting presided es such as chains securing the rifles,” said a over by President Park Geun-hye and came 28-year-old surnamed Kang, who took part in a three-day reserve forces training last year. “If back to the ministry to deal with the rampage. The Army added that the chief of staff, Kim a trainee wants to shoot others, they could do Yo-hwan, who was on a visit to China and the so even with instructors behind them.”
It was later disclosed that shooter Choi was once classified as a soldier who needed B-grade special attention, which means that he was considered mentally unstable. The scale is from A to C. Choi did his compulsory military duty from 2012 to 2014. Korean men are obliged to do reserve duty for seven years after finishing their time in the Army. They are trained once a year. Men who did their military duty with Choi said he did not adapt well. “Choi was often scolded by superiors because his performance wasn’t good enough while he was working at the guard observation post,” said one of his fellow soldiers. “He could not stand it well and complained about the situation from time to time.” “As he was often blamed by superiors, he was moved to another company and got a new job,” another person who served military duty with him said. “He often asked me to buy him drinks after finishing the military service, but we never met since. Whenever I asked if he had problems, he always said no.” Neighbors described Choi as introverted and quiet. A neighbor said, “He looked nice, but never said hello and did not make eye contact.”
Keimyung University Dongsan Medical Center
계명대학교 동산의료원
116 years of history The first hospital in Daegu Established in 1899 by an American medical missionary Practicing domestic and international medical volunteer activities for over a Century. ● Leading hospital in attraction of international patients Best Institute Award for attracting International Patients from the Korean Ministry of Health and Welfare in 2010 ● Leading Medical Center in daegu medical tourism ● Specialized Medical Centers : Cardiovascular Center, Cerebrovascular Center, Cancer Center, Digestive System Center, Sleep Center, Obesity and metabolic Surgery Center.
New hospital under construction
Specialized International Healthcare Center ● Affiliated with International SOS ● Language services in English, Chinese, Japanese, and Russian ● Convenient and professional service with the following international insurance companies for direct billing system : Tricare Overseas Program, AETNA International, BlueCross Blueshield,CIGNA International, Foreign Service Benefit Plan, GeoBlue
56 Dalseong-Ro, Jung-Gu, Daegu TEL 053-250-7303 www.dsmc.or.kr
N ati onal News
In association with
QIA denies bidding
for Landmark 72
A
nephew of UN Secretary General Ban Ki-moon lied when he said the Qatar Investment Authority (QIA) was interested in buying a building in Vietnam owned by Keangnam Enterprises, the company at the center of a major political corruption scandal in Korea. Ban’s nephew Bahn Joo-hyun claimed to have negotiated the sale of the Keangnam Landmark 72 in Hanoi with the QIA. But in an email sent to the Korea JoongAng Daily through its public relations agency on May 15, the QIA denied it was interested. “Qatar Investment Authority has not attempted to buy the Landmark 72 Tower in Hanoi, Vietnam,” the email read. “All reports to the contrary are false and are denied.” Bahn, managing director of the New York branch of real estate firm Colliers International, has reassured the construction company and its creditors that the deal was ongoing and on the verge of coming through. Ban Ki-sang, his father and younger brother of the UN secretary general, worked for Keangnam Enterprises as a senior adviser for seven years and is known to have recommended the construction company appoint Colliers International as the exclusive agency for the building’s sale in 2013. The suspicion is that Bahn and his father intentionally deceived the company and its cred-
Bahn submitted a document in March to Keangnam Enterprises showing that the QIA was willing to buy the building. That document was submitted to creditors. QIA later denied the validity of the document. Keangnam Enterprises is in the news because it and its former chairman, Sung Wan-jong, were investigated earlier this year for having fraudulently profited from the so-called resources diplomacy of the previous Lee Myung-bak administration. An outraged Sung protested his innocence in April shortly before hanging himself on a mountain in Seoul - but not before he claimed publicly to have made payoffs to the inner circle of current President Park Geun-hye. That started the biggest scandal of the Park administration, which is still growing. Managers of Keangnam Enterprises on Friday asked its court receivers to strip Bahn of his exclusive right to negotiate the sale of Landmark 72, saying, “Bahn did not properly fulfill Construction of the Landmark 72, Vietnam’s his duties as he did not answer the company’s tallest building, was completed in 2011 and cost inquiries over the process and possibility of the Keangnam Enterprises about 1.2 trillion won ($1.1 building’s sale.” The Seoul Central District Court billion). Subsequently, the company was strug- accepted the request later on Friday. Creditors and shareholders of Keangnam aren’t gling to repay its 530 billion won in debt. The company decided to be delisted and go happy with the news of the Landmark 72 ruse. “We have financially supported Keangnam Enunder debt receivership in March. Creditors to Keangnam are known to have terprises because we trusted that the sale proeased conditions for its debt workout because cess [of Landmark 72] was going well,” said a Bahn pretended that he was still negotiating creditor. “We will make some of them take legal with the QIA over the sale of the Landmark 72. liability [for our loss].” itors by pretending to be close to selling the building, so creditors would continue to support Keangnam, which was struggling financially.
3 indicted for plotting with Pyongyang to make drugs
18 www.groovekorea.com June 2015
S
outh Korean prosecutors said on May 17 that three of its citizens have been indicted for plotting with Pyongyang to smuggle methamphetamine into the South and attempting to assassinate a renowned defector critical of the North’s Communist regime. The Seoul Central District Prosecutors’ Office announced that a 62-year-old delivery person, a 68-year-old unemployed individual and a 56-year-old distribution industry worker were detained for allegedly violating the domestic Narcotics Control Act. The 62-year-old was additionally indicted for breaching the National Security Act by acting as a secret agent for the North. The names and genders of the suspects were withheld. The prosecution said over the weekend that
the group is suspected of funneling the raw materials and manufacturing equipment required for producing methamphetamine to North Korea via China in July 2000. They were then alleged to have illegally crossed borders into the North to produce 70 kilograms (154 pounds) of the drug before bringing it into South Korea. Evidence that the drugs were distributed throughout the South has yet to be found. One of the three suspects was further indicted for conspiracy to murder Hwang Jang-yop, the highest-ranking North Korean to defect to the South. Hwang was the chief ideologue of the North and a former teacher of Kim Jong-un’s father, Kim Jong-il, before his 1997 defection. Hwang, who was the former chairman of the Supreme People’s Assembly, North Ko-
rea’s parliament, died of a heart attack on Oct. 10, 2010, at the age of 87. Seoul prosecutors said the 62-year-old South Korean initially came into contact with a North Korean spy in September 2009 in Beijing and continued to meet that agent on 10 more occasions to discuss the homicide plan. The South Korean was said to have been offered $40,000 for the task. To prepare for the assassination, the 62-year-old is suspected to have handed over photographs he or she took of Hwang’s residence in Gangnam District, southern Seoul, to the North Korean spy. The person is also thought to have tried to hire criminal gang members for the actual murder. The entire plan fell through when Hwang died unexpectedly at his house.
Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)
C OMMUNI TY
C omm u nit y Ch es t
Story by Grace A. Lee, Colleen Chapco-Wade and Walter Foreman photos courtesy of Canadian Chamber of Commerce in Korea (CanCham Korea)
Canada’s Birthday Celebrations In Korea CanCha m Korea brings Canada Day festivities to Seoul on June 27th
P
utting the Eh! in Canada Day this year is the Canadian Chamber of Commerce in Korea (CanCham Korea). Canada’s birthday, which takes place annually on July 1st, is called Canada Day. The holiday marks the unofficial start of summer and seeing as it’s a touch too late to book a trip to Canada, the next best thing is right here in Seoul. For one afternoon only on Saturday, June 27th, 2015, the Chamber and a group of over 400 people will bring a bit of Canada to a small corner of downtown Seoul.
20 www.groovekorea.com June 2015
Traditions and a Short History Lesson - Canada Day: July 1 Canada was officially born on July 1st, 1867, when Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, and the area that is now Ontario and Quebec joined to become a single country. Canada Day was originally known as “Dominion Day,” as the Constitution Act stated that Canada would become an independent “dominion” of England. However, Canada was not completely independent of England until 1982. Before that date, many Canadians considered themselves British citizens, and there was little Canadian nationalism. However, Canada’s Centennial in 1967 saw an increase in Canadian patriotism and the holiday became increasingly popular. This led to a vote in Parliament in 1982 that removed any of Canada’s remaining dependence on Britain, and saw the name of the holiday changed officially to Canada Day. Now, Canadians all across the nation – and the world – come together to commemorate the country’s independence with great delight and pride. As one might expect, the nation’s capital, Ottawa, hosts the country’s largest Canada Day celebration. This year’s Seoul event brings many of the festival traditions to the peninsula such as live music, burgers and drinks, face painting, flag waving, children’s activities, games and sports.
About CanCha m Korea
Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)
This year’s festivities are a reason to celebrate Canada and a great way to show a love of Canada and why it’s great to be Canadian.
C OMMUNI TY
CanCham Korea, the organizers behind this year’s event, is a non-profit organization that provides an extensive networking platform for its members with business interests in Canada and Korea. The Chamber’s vision is to present and foster the Canadian community in Korea, as well as to promote trade and investment between the two countries. For more than two decades, the Chamber, its members, its sponsors, and its partners such as the Embassy of Canada, have been bringing people together to celebrate Canada Day. The event in 2015 marks the Chamber’s 20th anniversary and the recent signing of Canada’s first free trade agreement in the Asia-Pacific region: the Canada-Korea Free Trade Agreement (CKFTA). The Chamber is growing and expanding its role amid the buzz of trade activity and enquiries.
Canada Day in Seoul: Saturday June 27th, 2015 This year is Canada’s 148th Birthday Bash and everyone is welcome to the party. Held at Changdeok Girls Middle School, right across from the Embassy of Canada in Jeong-dong, the afternoon festivities will kick off from 12 pm. The Canadian community, friends of Canada, business people, entrepreneurs, students, and educators will all come together for one purpose: to celebrate The Great White North. The event starts off with a bagpipe performance followed by an official cake-cutting ceremony before some live music action provides the perfect backdrop for some traditional Canadian fare including sizzling barbecued burgers, pancakes, maple syrup, ice cream, snacks and beer. The afternoon also has a ton of lucky draws and a whole bunch of fun activities such as board games, big bubbles, a bouncy house, face painting, pet rocks and a mini pool for all family members to get involved in. Just imagine this: a bagpiper in full Highland dress that stirs memories of Canada; a live band rocking out some tunes; and Canadian flags everywhere; on face tattoos, T-shirts, banners, umbrellas; and even a great big birthday cake. The smell of charcoal grilled beef patties fills the air as the kids are splashing away and cooling off in the mini pool. Frisbees and footballs are flying everywhere. With a beer, soft drink, a burger or an ice cream in hand, everything is ready for a party. The event promises to be an afternoon full of activities and family-oriented entertainment.
June 2015 www.groovekorea.com 21
MORE INFO Anyone who is interested in taking part in or getting involved with this year’s CanCham Canada Day Party in Seoul can call CanCham at 02-554-0245 or visit online at: www.canchamkorea.org/ www.facebook.com/cancham.korea June 27th, 12pm-3pm Changdeok Girls Middle School, Jeongdong-gil 22, 100-120 (Across from the Embassy of Canada) Adults KRW 35,000 / Children (ages 4-13) KRW 20,000 www.canchamkorea.org www.facebook.com/cancham.korea Info@canchamkorea.org 02-554-0245 Subway Get off at City Hall Station (Line 1 or 2), take exit 2 and walk about 3~4 minutes
Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)
C OMMUNI TY
C omm u nit y Ch es t
Embracing the community spirit, Gangnam Style Enjoy a varied program of community activities with Yeoksam Global Village Center Story by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring Photos Courtesy of Yeoksam Global Village Center
T 22 www.groovekorea.com June 2015
he Yeoksam Global Village Center (YGVC) nestles comfortably above the Yeoksam 1-dong Community Service Center, neighbouring the Yeoksam 1-dong library, and opens its doors to expat residents
in Seoul. Center manager Eve Sinapi extends a huge welcome to any visitors, stressing that the YGVC is dedicated to helping foreign residents. The fifth floor location has a warm, inviting vibe and is a central fountain of information. The reception area alone has numerous leaflets informing about useful services available for those settling in Korea, including life in the capital, travelling around the peninsula and current cultural events to attend. YGVC is also building up its own library of books and magazines, kindly donated by other expats that frequent the center, which can be borrowed by visitors for free with only ARC and phone numbers required for the two-week lending period. Eve further explains how YGVC has organised lifestyle, cultural and even historical events. A popular session held by the center is a monthly tax counselling session, offering free advice to those who are completing tax returns, may have questions about their pay or just seek general information. Reservations are strongly suggested and can be made by emailing or phoning the center up to a day before the session to guarantee a private 15-20
a monthly tax counselling session, offering free advice to those who are completing tax returns, may have questions about their pay or just seek general information.
minute consultation by the on-site visiting English speaking advisor. For those who are unable to attend the monthly session, Eve suggests sending an email to YGVC to help obtain advice electronically instead. As with the other Global Villages around Seoul, YGVC offers quarterly Korean language classes for those expats registered as residents. The program is divided into beginner and intermediate levels and advanced TOPIK classes taking place in the afternoon and evening. Potential students can register by applying via the center’s website or Facebook page but as the program is free (with only a textbook cost involved), classes tend to fill up quickly so contact the YGVC about reserve lists if this is the case. Additionally, the center is also the venue for the Korean Immigration and Integration Program (KIIP) classes on Monday, Wednesday and Friday mornings and YGVC can offer advice about registering for this course as well. Another specialised class starting this month is for the Korean Written Driving Test. YGVC runs the four-week course twice a year in January and June and provides English and Korean guidance to help attendees to prepare, process and register for upcoming written driving tests. The bi-weekly course also offers an orientation of an official Korean Road Traffic Association test center in the final week sessions to complete the preparation course.
Educational Programs (Free)
Monthly Events
Korean Language Program Starting July (for 4 months Mon/Weds or Tues/Thurs + TOPIK classes on Fridays Free (except textbook) Application period : June 16th to 23rd Level test : June 24th to 29th
Tax Counseling Thurs 4th – 9.30am – 12pm Free
KIIP (Korean Immigration and Integration Program) Every Monday, Wednesday and Friday 10.00am-1.00pm - Free (YGVC is the venue and can offer registration advice)
K-Food Cooking Class Ugeoji Gamjatang (Spicy Pork Backbone stew) & Dubu Jeon (Pan-fried tofu) Fri 12th - 10.30am-12.30pm KRW10,000 a class
Korean Written Driving Test Preparation Class June 2nd – Jun 25th (twice a week) / Free
Volunteering at St Mary’s Hospital Sat 20th / 10.00am-12.00pm / Free
JUNE
01
CLASS
Korean Immigration and Integration Program (KIIP) 10.00am-1.00pm / Cost: Free Yeoksam Global Village Center 16, Yeoksam-ro 7-gil, Gangnam-Gu, Seoul
CLASS
Korean Written Driving Test 4.00pm-6.00pm / Cost: Free Yeoksam Global Village Center 16, Yeoksam-ro 7-gil, Gangnam-Gu, Seoul thu
04 JUNE
Tax Counseling 9.30am-11.30am – Reservation Recommended / Cost: Free Yeoksam Global Village Center 16, Yeoksam-ro 7-gil, Gangnam-Gu, Seoul
Korean Drawing Class 10.00am-12.00pm / Cost: 4,000 won Itaewon Global Village Center, 5f Hannam Building, 737-37 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-Gu, Seoul 140-893
JUNE
06
05 JUNE
KISS Salsa Classes 7.30pm-8.30pm (beginner) 8.30pm-9.30pm (intermediate) Cost: 10,000 won non-band nights/ 15,000 won band nights SAMOS, Yonsero-5-dakil 22-3, 3rd floor, Chang Cheon-dong Sodemun-gu, Seoul
K-Food Cooking Class: Ugeoji Gamjatang and Dubu Jeon 10.30am – 12.30pm / Cost: 10,000 won Ewha Women’s University. (Sign up with Yeoksam Global Village) yeoksam@sba.seoul.kr
Fri
JUNE
12
Afterschool Art Class for Kids 3.30pm-5.00pm / Cost: 6,000 won Itaewon Global Village Center, 5f Hannam Building, 737-37 Hannam-dong, YongsanGu, Seoul 140-893 Yongsan Center for the Disabled: Volunteer Session 2.00pm-4.00pm Cost: Free but sign-up prior to the session http://global.seoul.go.kr/Itaewon Itaewon Global Village Center at Yongsan Center for the Disabled SAT
JUNE
13
CLASS
The 3rd New Zealand Wine Festival 6.00pm-10.00pm Cost: 80,000-110,000 won email sunny@tiwitrade.com for event information Grand Ballroom, Grand Hyatt, Busan
CLASS
Stitch n Bitch Meet 2.30pm / Cost: Free De Lambre Coffee Shop Jongno-gu Jongno 2-ga 75-8
SAT
JUNE
14,28
June 2015 www.groovekorea.com 23
MORE INFO Events are mainly free. However fees for some classes range between 5,000-10,000 won. Check the website or Facebook page for more details. Every activity needs prior registration via e-mail or phone as the number of participants is limited. 9am-6pm. Open Monday to Friday, except Public Holidays. www.global.seoul.go.kr/yeoksam www.facebook.com/globalcenter.ys 16, Yeoksam-ro 7-gil, Gangnam-Gu, Seoul (5f, Yeoksam 1-dong Community Service Center) 02-3453-9038-9 yeoksam@sba.seoul.kr Subway: Gangnam Station (Line 2, Exit 1). Walk 200 meters towards Yeoksam Station. turn right at Gookgiwon intersection then walk about 400 meters.
Fri
CLASS
CLASS
Special event: Taekwondo Initiation (Fri 26th June, 4.00pm- 6.00pm: Free)
02~25
CLASS
CLASS
EVERY SAT
JUNE
Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)
Class at a Glance…(all taking place at the Yeoksam Global Village Center, (except for the cooking class (cooking academy near Ehwa Women’s University) and the Volunteering at St Mary’s hospital)
MON
C OMMUNI TY
The YGVC also brings together the local community through YGVC’s monthly hospital volunteering program. In conjunction with St Mary’s Hospital in Gangnam, up to 20 volunteers help with different duties. Separated into smaller teams over several floors, the group speak and participate in games with children in the playroom, help create medical kits or aid with general cleaning on the floor. The hospital also offers a volunteering certificate for individuals who participate. The session takes place between 10am-12pm on one designated Saturday a month with a central meeting point on the 1st floor of the hospital near the Express Bus Terminal station. Yeoksam’s Global Village Center is also a cultural hub with many speakers returning to present at the center about more recent projects. Past visitors have included an oriental doctor, a Korean cultural professor and even musicians speaking before performances or practical demonstrations to enhance the cultural link between Korean and expat communities. Eve says that many speakers contact the center to share their experiences and expertise with expat residents and it is a great way to meet others and learn about Korea’s culture and history. YGVC is also starting preparations for their two annual events on Hangul Day in October and their year-end Christmas party. Eve mentions these are two popular events, with details available on the center’s homepage and Facebook page nearer the time. The YGVC is a central point for information with many educational programs and residential help available for those expats settling into the district. Undoubtedly, Yeoksam Global Village Center’s offers its own varied program of events which certainly brings its own Gangnam style to the neighbourhood.
Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)
C OMMUNI TY
Neig hb o rhoo d Wat c h
Welcome to the Oddiverse
Shawn Morrissey offers an insight into his own weird world Story by Dave Hazzan / Photos by Martyn Thompson
24 www.groovekorea.com June 2015
I
n person, Shawn Morrissey, 36, is not particularly frightening. He’s thin and reedy, his hair thinning at the temples. He’s very funny and he likes to joke, listen to music, and drink beer. He is a passionate hiker and naturalist. From the small town of Victoria, Newfoundland, his Newfie accent has left him after 15 years in Goyang, just north of Seoul. But he must have some evil in him; look at what he writes. Morrissey is the co-creator of Worldwide Odd, a new horror comics anthology, and its publisher Short Box Comics (SBC). “Instead of self-publishing as a title, which is what a lot of indie comics do, we thought, well why don’t we do a bunch of titles under a company banner?” Morrissey explains. They are strictly digital – what Morrissey calls “digital exclusive” – and Worldwide Odd is so far their only title, although they’d like to have more. “Horror is a realization. It’s primal,” Morrissey says. “Horror is something all people of all ages feel. That’s why kids are afraid of the dark; we don’t know what’s in the dark.” The Canadian explains that horror can be divided into two key elements: terror, and the horror itself – or the anticipation and the fulfilment. “Terror is smelling a corpse, but horror is realizing you’re standing on top of it”, he says; and it has ever been thus, since the first ghost stories were told. Comics were a big part of Morrissey’s upbringing in Newfoundland. His father intro-
duced him to comics – they both shared a love for Superman in particular. “We shared a lot, experienced a lot. He took me to comic book shops (and) we always went to antique stores looking for old comics together.” Worldwide Odd is inspired by older horror comics. It features a man called The Blog Keeper – an obvious reference to the Tales from the Crypt’s Crypt Keeper – a disgraced academic, who believes the things that go bump in the night are not your imagination.
Something has happened in The Blog Keeper’s past that leads him to believe that supernatural events are real, that they’re happening all the time, and that they’ve always happened The Blog Keeper’s own story is told in the prologue and epilogue of every 40-45 page issue. “Something has happened in The Blog Keeper’s past that leads him to believe that supernatural events are real, that they’re happening all the time, and that they’ve always happened,” describes Morrissey. The Blog Keeper researches these events and publishes them on his blog, Worldwide Odd. These blog entries are then written and illus-
trated by a changing roster of artists and writers, and make up the two or three short stories in each comic. Some are self-contained, some continue through to other issues, but they are all interconnected, in what Morrissey calls “The Oddiverse”; the universe of Worldwide Odd. “His arc and his story will continue through the whole length of the total, for however long it goes,” Morrissey explains. “The core of the whole title will be him.” Worldwide Odd and SBC were co-created with Marc Pritchard, Morrissey’s partner in Calgary. A Chicago-based artist, Brittany Peer, provides the ghoulish prologues and epilogues, and a roster of artists, including several Koreans, produce the stories in between. It usually works like this: Morrissey will think up a story, and develop a script. He’ll then send that on to Pritchard in Calgary. When all the stories for a single issue are ready to go, they send the scripts to the illustrators. It takes a while. “We’re indie creators, so we all have day jobs, and interpreting a script as sequential art can take some time,” Morrissey says. The lettering comes next – Morrissey prefers the “richer, grittier organic charm” that comes with hand-lettering – and then they decide together what will go on the cover. The front page is then illustrated, the comic is scanned to a PDF format, and finally sold through their store.
WED
JUNE
17
CLASS
Senior Welfare Center: Volunteer 1pm-2pm / Cost: Free but sign-up prior to the session http://global.seoul.go.kr/Itaewon Itaewon Global Village Center at the Yongsan Senior Welfare
CLASS
Young Nak Aenea’s Home: Volunteer Session 2pm-4pm / Cost: Free but sign-up prior to the session http://global.seoul.go.kr/Itaewon Itaewon Global Village Center at Young Nak Aenea’s Home FRI
JUNE
19
THU
JUNE
18
CLASS
CPR (Cardiopulmonary Resuscitation) and First Aid Training 10.00am-12.00pm / Cost: Free but sign-up prior to the session http://global.seoul.go.kr/ Itaewon Itaewon Global Village Center, 5f Hannam Building, 737-37 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-Gu, Seoul 140-893 Napkin Art 12.30pm-2.00pm / Cost: 10,000 won Itaewon Global Village Center, 5f Hannam Building, 737-37 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-Gu, Seoul 140-893
CLASS
Volunteering at St Mary’s Hospital 10am-12pm / Cost: Free Yeoksam Global Village Center 16, Yeoksam-ro 7-gil, Gangnam-Gu, Seoul Tue
JUNE
23
Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)
but he knows what it will be when he thinks up the plot. “The art also has to sell the horror, you can’t rely on exposition. Poorly written comics rely on exposition. Well written comics don’t, they try to limit their exposition. So you have to use the art to sell it. It’s very integral,” he adds. The online comic book has also been given some serious endorsements. Sina Grace, the former editor of The Walking Dead, has contributed to the Kickstarter campaign and kept in touch. Jim Zub, the author of Skullkickers, has also “been giving (promotional) advice and stuff like that,” Morrissey adds. So far, SBC have managed to sell about 100 issues of the comic, including as part of a Kickstarter campaign they ran to raise money for promotional costs. They obviously hope to sell many more in the future, and are working on a mammoth promotional campaign, funded by Kickstarter. He feels strongly about what he’s doing and he’s proud of what comics can and have accomplished. “Humans have been making sequential art for millennia,” Morrissey says. “Cave paintings are sequential art – they’re not comics, but they show sequential art, (and) they tell stories.”
C OMMUNI TY
Morrissey and Pritchard do most of the writing. Artists are paid in royalties, but since they’re just beginning, royalties are thin. “Because we’re starting off purely indie, we’re looking for partners, not vendors,” Morrissey says. “We’re looking for people who want to share in the craft.” However, Morrissey admits, writing effective horror comics is not always easy. “The problem with comics is that it’s a visual medium, but it’s static,” he says. “So you can’t show graphic horror with the same effect as you can with film. A lot of the horror has to come from the story itself.” The plot twist is the main convention Morrissey uses to make an effective horror comic. “Writers of horror comics have to make use of literary devices to drive the narrative and present the horror to the reader,” Morrissey says. “Plot twists are essential and have been part of the genre since pretty much the beginning. A twist tends to reveal the horror or supernatural element of the story, and can be achieved through any of the classic techniques - unreliable narrator, anagnorisis, false protagonist, or what have you.” Morrissey doesn’t consciously decide which way he’ll reveal the twist,
SAT
JUNE
20
Seminar
Seminar on Oriental Medicine 10am-12pm / Cost: Free but sign-up prior to the session http://global.seoul.go.kr/Itaewon Itaewon Global Village Center, 5f Hannam Building, 737-37 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-Gu, Seoul 140-893
CLASS
Hanyang and Seoul Landmark class 10am-12pm / Cost: Free - for museum tour and Ecobag making class Itaewon Global Village Center at Seoul Museum Of History
FRI
JUNE
26
Taekwondo Initiation 4pm-6pm / Cost: Free Yeoksam Global Village Center 16, Yeoksam-ro 7-gil, Gangnam-Gu, Seoul SAT
JUNE
27
Canada Day CamCham Celebrations 12pm-3pm / Cost: KRW35,000 (adults), KRW20,000 (child) See www.canchamkorea.org for registration details Changdeok Girls Middle School, Jeong-Dong (opposite the Embassy of Canada in Jeong-dong)
CLASS
Korean Language Program Mon/Weds and Tues/ Thurs Afternoon and Evening classes Cost: Free (except textbook) Yeoksam Global Village Center 16, Yeoksam-ro 7-gil, Gangnam-Gu, Seoul
JUNE
From July
June 2015 www.groovekorea.com 25
MORE INFO For more information, or to buy a comic or subscription, please go to the Worldwide Odd website. How to subscribe: Visit worldwide-odd.com or www.sellfy.com/sbc. Next issue: July Subscription cost: $17.95 for six issues, plus the Annual. Individual issues are $2.99. www.worldwide-odd.com, or www.sellfy.com/sbc shawn@shortboxcomics.com, Twitter @SJMorrissey. Contributors: Worldwide Odd and SBC are always looking for contributors and ideas, so feel free to contact them.
FESTIVAL
Story by Liam Ring
photos by Maloney’s Brewery an
Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)
C OMMUNI TY
Neig hb o rhoo d Wat c h
d Joh
a nne sH wa ng
Brewing up a Storm
26 www.groovekorea.com June 2015
B
Five beer guys with inspiration for a finer product
eer drinking in South Korea has come a distance from the days of macro domination and choices limited to local brands or a trek to Itaewon for a Guinness. The softening of laws on contract brewing and the amount of product brewed has brought an upsurge in places around Seoul to enjoy a range of craft and micro brews. Catching up fast on the more established brands are the good people at Maloney’s Brewing Company, with William (Bill) M., Bryan K., Jim T., Joe M. and Brendan Maloney bringing two strongly flavoured (and strong in alcohol percentage) concoctions to inflame your palate. The friends all trace their love of beer back to craft beer discovered in the West, with names such as the Sierra Nevada’s iconic Pale Ale and Celebration Ale name-checked in their beer journey. Coming to Korea by separate routes, they initially met through an admiration for the product already hitting Korean bars. From there came the realization that each could
bring a piece of the puzzle to producing beers that nobody was doing. With friends at the Hand and Malt (who were setting up their own operation), they acquired the equipment and overseas ingredients necessary to make the first steps towards American styledbrews at Korean prices. Maloney’s initial success was the ultra-hoppy Southie Irish Red Ale, a big-flavored, Boston-inspired beverage that at 6% ABV (alcohol by volume) is about 2% ABV more than most beers in its class. A heady mix of extra hops and roasted barley, with a secret grain the knowledge of which few are privy to, it brings a beer brimming with unique character. Their latest venture is what Bill terms “a punch-tothe–face, no-holds barred, hop-assault Columbus colossus” of an India Pale Ale (IPA). Weighing in at a stonking 7.5% ABV, and with tap-handles moulded into fists
The Combat Zone IPA is a pure punch in the face, noholds barred, hop-assault Columbus colossus of an IPA.
It’s a tactic set to challenge long-standing behemoth breweries finally beginning to shift uncomfortably on their laurels. For years the only game in town, the emergence of craft breweries, has slowly made local macro breweries step up to the plate. An Economist article that claimed North Korean beer was better than the Southern variety ruffled some feathers, but a loss of face was never going to provide the motivation that a loss of profits would. Changing palates and a more level playing field will help smaller brewers to find a niche in the market, but as Jim points out, with the desire for good beer so huge, there is space for product outside of the Korean norm. Especially if a relatively low price point can be maintained. For that, the reduction in taxes brought in on raw ingredients from abroad has been fantastic. Those taxes, along with cascading alcohol and education taxes are, argues Bill, the biggest reason why local brews are similarly priced to imports. Nevertheless, the Maloney’s crew have ever-increasing confidence in their beverages as they target those who want bold, quality craft beer.
Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)
While we’d love everyone to be drinking Southie and Combat Zone we are more concerned with expanding the Korean craft beer market and knowledge of the really good beers being made locally.
Looking to the future, the crew are eager not to rest on past glories such as the Southie and the recently-unveiled Combat Zone. A third potential beer is a possibility, with seasonal offerings using local fruits a more likely development. Expansion for the brand is key at the moment, with the five keen to bring their brews to as wide a tasting audience as possible. The summer brings brewery tours through their associates at the Hand and Malt brewery and there are regular impromptu tasting sessions across the city courtesy of the Seoul Brew Club. For a few Southies or Combat Zones, Bill suggests Maloney’s Pub and Grill in Gyeongnidan while Joe recommends Craftworks in Itaewon, as well as the Three Manatee or Funky Taphouse in the south of the city. Nairobi bar in the Korea University district stocks both Maloney’s brews
C OMMUNI TY
that are impossible to avoid as you scan the bar, it is, as in Bill’s words, like no other IPA in Korea. With beers such as these, Maloney’s only needs the drinkers to savor them, and there’s a growing craft-savvy market in the capital and beyond to cater to. A recent, and in many opinions ill-advised, effort to foist Belgian-style sour beers on a market eager to make its own decisions has begun to wane, and there are plenty of craft places clogged with both the well-informed and the curious throughout the year. Interestingly, Bryan sees that despite large swathes of locals not being that knowledgeable, Korean women are leading the craft beer march as they swap the coffee cup for the pint glass. So although the macro breweries still dominate, there is an increasingly large slice of the market to aim for. In every new market challenges abound, and the Korean beer one is no exception. Recent changes to laws that lowered brewing volume requirements while also cutting tax rates mean that craft beer can be priced more effectively to snare the curious drinker.
while the brewery has also gone out of Seoul to supply TAB in Uijeongbu and DK’s in Daejeon. There is, however, a plethora of Craft choices to enjoy this summer, and Joe is keen to see the whole community benefit; both drinkers and brewers. “While we’d love everyone to be drinking Southie or Combat Zone, we are more concerned with expanding the Korean craft beer market and knowledge of the really good beers being made locally.” Theirs is a story that may have begun with wanting to take the consumer through a beer journey across the different parts of Boston, but they are keen to build on their knowledge and inspirations to make bigger and better brews in years to come. As a part of a vibrant community, and with a more sophisticated audience, there’s plenty of potential to build into the future.
With thanks to Bill, Bryan, Jim, Joe and Brendan for their help and knowledge.
MORE INFO www.facebook.com/MaloneysBrewingCompany info@maloneys.beer https://untappd.com/MaloneysBrewingCompany
Questions for the experts
June 2015 www.groovekorea.com 27
Groove found a budding home brewer keen to gain some insights from the Maloney’s brewers. Is there a common mistake among home brewers that you can Many home brewers struggle with raising the efficiency of their beer. Do you have any tips for raising this efficiency when give advice on? Bill: Cleanliness… yeast storage… fermentation temps… cleanli- brewing at home? Bill: Keep a sack or can of extract handy if you miss the efficienness… quality ingredients… cleanliness. Bryan: I think for new homebrewers the health of yeast and cy mark. Bryan: As an extract brewer I’ve never tried, but have heard the temperature control of the fermentation process is really a make or break part of the beer making process, sanitation is a close second. Brew In A Bag (BIAB) process can result in about 85-90% efficiency. You can make quality beer with fresh extract, but you need to keep It also allows you to not need to purchase a mash tun and manifold so it’s cheaper and less storage space is required. an eye on the temperature.
28 www.groovekorea.com June 2015
Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)
C OMMUNITY
Let off some steam at one of Korea’s Amusement Parks
Stay Amused This Summer
T
Story by Naomi Blenkinsop / photo courtesy of Seoul land
he summer season will soon be upon us, and for the peninsula, that means heat and humidity… and plenty of both. Although it might be tempting to stay indoors with the air conditioner on full blast, there are many fun amusement and water parks around the country that are worth visiting. Whether it’s to beat the sun or just to have fun, South Korea has many outdoor entertainment offerings on hand to help you let off some steam. Everland is South Korea’s largest amusement park, boasting its own attractions, the water park Caribbean Bay, and a zoo. There are five different theme zones at the park; Global Fair, American Adventure, Magic Land, European Adventure and Zootopia. For those with children, Magic Land has many fun rides such as Racing Coaster and Magic Swing and other attractions. Global Fair is a celebration of history and culture, showcasing architecture from as early as Mesopotamian times all the way up to the present. Over in the American Adventure zone, five hundred years of American history are explored through many thrilling rides such as the Rolling X Train. The European Adventure zone lets you imagine what it would be like to live in a quaint, historical European town where one can even experience a rose garden or Holland Village. There is also plenty of entertainment with frequent parades, light shows, fictional characters and performances throughout the day. The entrance fee is pricy but if you are an expat, you can get a ten dollar discount by printing off the coupon from the
Seoul Land
website and bringing it along on your next visit. For those more interested in cooling off this summer, water park Caribbean Bay has 5 different zones to suit any water fan. Fast and furious waterslides await eager thrill-seekers in the Bay Slide and Wild River areas. If you are a fan of waterfalls or just need to cool off, then head over to The Adventure Pool in Fortress Zone where 2.4 tons of extremely cold water descends from a skull just overhead. For a bit of luxury and relaxation, head over to the Aquatic Center to take time out from the thrills with spa treatments, a sauna and DIY Beauty Zone. Caribbean Bay also offers a similar discount for expats on their website. Jeju Island is a must during the summer season, especially if you’re newly arrived to South Korea. There are many gorgeous beaches, small islands and natural sites to take advantage of while you’re there. However, Jeju Island is also well-known for its abundance of museums- and Jeju Loveland is one venue that’s not to be missed. It is the only sexually themed park in South Korea and leaves visitors with a bizarre and unique museum experience. Expressed through 140 sculptures created by twenty artists from Honggik University, not much is left to the imagination. Not one for the more conservative mindsets or those traveling with children, this outdoor adventure explores every nook and cranny that the theme promises. In addition, permanent exhibits by different Korean artists are featured monthly in the exhibition halls, to complete a memorable experience to spend time with like-minded friends.
More conveniently located in the capital, Seoul Land is a fantastic way to enjoy a summer’s day. Also divided into five different theme zones, Fantasy Land has many rides and attractions for children. World Plaza sports architecture from around the world while Adventure Land transports you to the wild west. For science fiction lovers, Tomorrow Land is filled with futuristic offerings and even has a time machine to experience Back to the Future flashbacks. Apart from the rides, Seoul Land also has a shooting gallery, bumper boats, remote boats and a 3D Theater to complete a full family day out. Keeping to the discount theme, the amusement park also offers 25% off the full admission to expats via a coupon on their website. Whether for the thrill, the splash or the relaxation, enjoy the numerous theme and water parks that Korea has to offer this summer. Whatever your theme for amusement, don’t forget to bring sunscreen and drink lots of water. Summer’s here so enjoy a day out with friends, family or an afternoon on your own to get you outdoors this summer.
MORE INFO: Everland 199 Everland-ro, Pogog-eup, Cheoin-gu, Yongin-si, Gyeonggi-do, SK 031-320-5000 KRW48,000 (adults), KRW38,000 (children) discounts available and ticket prices change according to time of day, please check website for further details Directions: Jeondae Everland Station on Yongin Line (free shuttle bus to Everland from this station) Transport: 5002 from Sinnonhyeon Station (Line 9) Gangnam Station (Line 2), Yangjae Station (Line 3) and Shin Bundang line. 5700 from Gangbyeon Station (Line 2) Jamsil Station (Line 2 and 8), Suseo station (Line 3) www.everland.com 10.00 a.m. to 10.00 p.m. (Mon, Tue, Weds) 9:30 am to 10.00 pm (Thurs, Fri, Sat., Sun)
MORE INFO: Carribean Bay 199 Everland-ro, Pogog-eup, Cheoin-gu, Yongin-si, Gyeonggi-do, SK 031-320-5000 KRW40,000 (adults) KRW31,000 (children) (discounts are available, please check website for details) Directions: Jeondae Everland Station on Yongin Line (free shuttle bus to Everland from this station) Bus: 5002 from Sinnonhyeon Station (Line 9), Gangnam Station (Line 2), Yangjae Station (Line 3) and Shin Bundang line. #5700 from Gangbyeon Station (Line 2) Jamsil Station (Line 2 and 8), Suseo station (Line 3) www.everland.com Indoors: 10.00am to 5.00pm Outdoors: 11.00am-4.00pm
MORE INFO: Jeju Loveland 680-26 Yeon-dong, Jeju-si, Jeju-do 064-712-6988 KRW9,000. Must be 18 or older to enter park Directions: 10 minute taxi from Jeju International Airport Bus: Take bus bound for Chuksanjinheungwon and get off at Dokkabi Road www.jejuloveland.com 9.00am to 12.00am (ticket sales close at 11 pm)
MORE INFO: Seoul Land 181 Gwangmyeong-ro, Makgye-dong, Gwacheon-si, Gyeonggi-do, SK 02-509-6000 KRW36,000 (adults 19-64) KRW32,000 (youth aged 13 to 18), KRW29,000 (children aged 3 to 12) Free entrance for 36 months and under Directions: Seoul Grand Park (Line 4) www.seoulland.co.kr Sun to Fri: 9:30 a.m. to 9.00 p.m. Sat: 9:30 to 10.00 pm
87MM :
Story by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring / photos courtesy of 87MM
M
odeling duo Wonjoong Kim and Jiwoon Park are two lads that have successfully crossed over from the modeling world into the realms of fashion design. Having met at the rehearsal of a fashion show in 2010 and not being completely satisfied with such collections at that time, the pair started talking and decided to design. It’s taken much self-study and dedication to teach themselves the tricks of the trade but only two and half years later, 87MM is now presenting its fifth collection, has appeared on the prestigious Generation Next runway at Seoul Fashion Week and can be found in A-Land stockists around the country. Born in 1987, the pair created the 87MM brand in 2011, which is reflective of their own fashion perceptions. Their motto is “No Concept But Good Sense” which allows the designers the flexibility to add their own style, vigor and passion to each collection, giving the model/designers the opportunity to create exactly what they want to wear, when they want to wear it and how they want to wear it. Jiwoon and Wonjoong have learned about designing the hard way. With no formal training, they decided to study the patterns, learn from books and seek out the best fabrics in order to match them with the most suitable sewing techniques. However, making the transition from catwalk to drawing board has been a difficult decision at times. “The fact that we did not receive professional training (meant) that some critics didn’t see us as fashion designers… more just us selling our fame” says Wonjoon, perhaps referring to his own status as the first ever male model hired for a Prada show. A clear objective in their fashion sense is that they design for themselves. The happy-go-lucky pair enjoy wearing the clothes they design, and still get on to the catwalk to show their latest collections to the awaiting public.
Their motto is “No C oncept But Good Sense” which allows the designers the f lexibility to add their own style, vigor and passion to each collection Jiwoon and Wonjoong use many of the people around them as influences and even take heed from the books, movies and music they like to contribute to their work. Traveling has also played a part in their designs although vintage markets around nearby Dongmyo in the capital are also inspiring on a Sunday. Fresh from the success of their Seoul Fashion Week runway show, the duo hope their designs will continue to become better and better. “Things are getting more and more interesting in 87MM… Please stay tuned for that” hints Jiwoon. This is one success story that is set to continue.
87MM MUST HAVE item!
Dress for the summer in style with the 87MM basic T-shirt collection. Available in six colors, the 1987studio basic has short and long sleeve T-shirts with a mixture of styles including front pocket and short, mid to long sleeve designs. Garments which carry the 87MM slogan come with a choice of “Any Good Ideas”, “Vote For MM” and “Crazy About Him” phrases to suit both ladies and gentleman. A must for any summer outfit this season, t-shirts are priced between KRW33,000-KRW48,000.
June 2015 www.groovekorea.com 29
More Info: 87MM The NERD collection is available directly from the showroom or from A-Land stockists around Seoul. Office 3/F, Haedong BLD , 63-2 Jangchung-dong 1-ga, Jung-gu, Seoul Doota Shop D-10 ,B2/F, 275 Jangchungdan-ro, Jung-gu, Seoul Sun-Mon 10:30am-12:00am Fri-Sat 10:30am-05:00am Office 070-7657-8787 / Shop 02-3398-4487 www.87mm.co.kr www.facebook.com/eightysevenmm Weibo 87mmofficial / Instagram 87mm_offi
Indeed, 87MM has silenced the critics with its latest NERD collection at March’s Seoul Fashion Week. NERD shows 87MM’s fun and casual side with a mixture of men’s and women’s tailored suit items that are matched with looser, casual combinations. The collection plays with length, especially with a range of culottes, three-quarter length and just above the ankle pants paired together with tailored and often longer matching coats and jackets. The duo have also developed a range of hats, particularly borrowing from the French beret influence and have also incorporated their own sense of humor in their T-shirts branding the 87MM logo and even a ‘Vote for MM’ offering.
Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)
Wonjoong Kim and Jiwoon Park speak about their transition from the catwalk into the world of fashion design
C OMMUNI TY
No Concept But Good Fashion Sense
T
he 16th annual Pride parade is fighting to see the light of day — any day — in June. It’s just the latest obstacle in the fight Hahn Chae-yun leads in Korea, as she has for the past several decades. Hahn is a fierce advocate of LGBT rights. She has dedicated her life to the empowerment of sexual minorities in Korea and has witnessed the scattered and largely invisible LGBT community blossom. Her tireless efforts continue as she heads the Korean Queer Culture Festival’s parade planning team in its 16th year. As the community grew in size and stature, never-before-seen challenges emerged. In its nascent years, the then-obscure Seoul Pride parade made little impact on Korean media and the Korean public. In 2014, the parade stalled for hours as religious protesters harassed and assaulted its participants. It was an indication of both the movement’s impact and increased resistance from opponents of LGBT rights. Since then, the conservative force of traditionalists and Christians has only grown. In May 2015, conservative groups fabricated phony organizations to legally reserve Seoul’s prime venues on the parade’s scheduled date, June 13, and throughout the end of the Pride month. “Under the government policy, ‘first registered, first served’, there’s not much we can do about their ill-intended behaviors,” says Korea Queer Culture Festival Chairman Kang Myeong-jin. While the situation is very stressful and challenging, Kang promised that KQCF would find an alternative way to hold the event.
Story by
Cele
t u re n s t e Ma
y Dukhwa / Photos b
I N S I G H T Edited by Anita McKay (anita@groovekorea.com)
Hope for Change
June 2015 www.groovekorea.com 31
This year’s slogan — Love, Resist, Queer Revolution — is a response to Korea’s extreme shift toward conservatism. Korea’s publicly anti-gay groups are few, but their efforts have still had an impact. Since disrupting and delaying the legally licensed 2014 Pride parade, homophobic groups have lobbied for discriminatory policies against the LGBT community, including the successful cancellation of the December 2014 human rights charter, which included a clause prohibiting discrimination based on sexual identity. Most recently, they succeeded when the Korean Ministry of Education enforced new sexual education laws prohibiting public school teachers from teaching about homosexuality. Although the organizers would have preferred to establish the exact place and time of the parade much earlier in the planning process, opposition groups blocked the entrances of police stations, thwarting efforts to register permits there. Although the setback was stressful, the KQCF can celebrate a much bigger accomplishment. This year, after several unjustified rejections, the Korean Queer Culture Festival’s June 9 opening ceremony will take place at Seoul Plaza, marking the first LGBT event to be held at the city’s physical center and emotional heart. This landmark opportunity gives sexual minorities hope for progress in a country where they have no voice. “There is hope for change, though it seems that Korean society is turning further to the right, the sexual minority community has grown, pride has heightened, people’s interests in human rights have increased and we have more supporters now,” says Hahn.
32 www.groovekorea.com June 2015
the Chairman of Korea Queer Culture Festival committee.
Kang Myeong-jin,
Edited by Anita McKay (anita@groovekorea.com)
I N S I G H T
I N S I G H T Edited by Anita McKay (anita@groovekorea.com)
Awareness needed for acceptance
Just days after announcing that this year’s parade had no venue, the KQCF changed the Pride parade’s date to June 28. “We have secured the use of Seoul Plaza permitted by the Seoul Metropolitan Government,” says Kang. “Now we only need to report, not to obtain permission [from the police], this can not stop the [parade] from taking place.” The parade will run from 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. and start at Seoul Plaza in front of City Hall. “The oppressive forces are obstructing our event by reporting the use of multiple venues to the Police so that the parade will be stopped or paused,” says Kang. “We’re trying to figure out a route for the parade so that it will not be paused or stopped.” As with all of the planned Pride events this year the Korea Queer Culture Festival organizers expect protesters to show up. The lack of public regard for the LGBT community coupled with a history of hesitancy on part of the police tasked with guarding the procession almost certainly guarantees that participants will have face-to-face interactions with protesters. Last year, parade attendants reported physical abuse, from their hair being pulled to being doused in water. The KQCF advises its participants to report any incidents to the committee and not take the problem into their own hands. As the Pride parade grows, so does the number of spectators. It’s important that onlookers use discretion when posting pictures of the parade on social media sites. Many of the LGBT members participating in the parade have not come out to their friends, family or coworkers. The first Seoul Pride parade, held in 2000, had a meager 50 participants, a number that grew to 20,000 in 2014 and is expected to reach 25,000 this year. As allies, both native and foreign, emerge in support of the LGBT community in Seoul — and as pressures from international human rights groups increase — Hahn says sexual minorities look forward to the legislation of non-discrimination acts which will open the door for new policies to ensure protection for all Koreans, regardless of who they love. A special thanks to Candy Yun of the Korea Sexual-minority Culture and Rights Center.
June 2015 www.groovekorea.com 33
One of those supporters is director and producer Nick Neon, a Korean-American who moved to Korea several years ago from his native New York City. He is vlogging his way through production of his upcoming film Ultra Bleu, an autobiographical account of a gay 20-something year old finding his footing in life. His goal for the film is to go beyond the over-saturated themes of coming out and homosexual hyper-sexualization. “I’ve been out for 12 years and I’m still waiting for a shift in gay media to take hold,” Neon says. He’s found pinpointing a purpose beyond sexual identity very difficult under the current cultural LGBT climate. The message in his “gay rant” at nickyneon.com may come across somewhat anti-Pride-esque, but it’s not. “I think [the Pride parade] is a very necessary part of building awareness for our community,” says Neon. He knows first hand the stress of being openly gay in Korea. Since there are no enforced laws against discrimination based on sexual orientation, Neon has been fired from jobs for his sexual preference. “I learned very quickly upon arriving in 2008 that homosexuality was taboo and that I would have a hard time if I didn’t manage my identity strategically.” Through filmmaking he has found a safe haven within the arts community but says it’s still painful to accept the reality that having a boyfriend can cost him a job. According to KQCF Chairman Kang, the first step toward a productive conversation about sexual minorities is to acknowledge their existence as members of Korean society. A recent public poll by the Asan Institute found that the percentage of 20 and 30-something Koreans that support the legalization of same-sex marriage nearly doubled between 2010 and 2014, rising to 60.2 percent and 40.4 percent respectively. While the upward trend in acceptance inspires hope, Hahn says that in order for real change to take effect homosexuality must become a topic of mainstream discussion. While protesters are a significant nuisance to the Pride parade, their homophobic attack on the 2014 parade is, ironically, why Korean society and Korean media have finally taken notice.
Fighting for the future
FOOD & DRINK Edited by Joe McPherson (food@groovekorea.com)
Manimal Story by Joe McPherson / Photos by Peter Kim
Smokehouse B B Q
c o m p e t i t i o n
h e a t s
u p
“M 34 www.groovekorea.com June 2015
aster of the secret that divides man from animal, animal from man.” - Intro to the highly cheesy ‘80s TV show Manimal The line between animal and man breaks down at Manimal Smokehouse. Not only does the BBQ bring out people’s more carnal natures, the online vitriol comparing Manimal to other recent American BBQ joints has been savage. This is Korea, where ranking is embedded in the psyche, even among the expats. Formerly from Wildfire, the folks at Manimal have more of a Texan focus on BBQ, cold smoked over Korean oak wood. In general, regions west of the Mississippi River focus on beef while regions to the east focus on pork. That’s why you should expect a Texan restaurant to have great brisket. That’s the measure of the quality. Steven Raichlen’s Barbecue Bible states that brisket should be tender enough to cut with the side of a fork. Manimal’s is beyond that. You could cut it with the back of a spoon. Ice cream puts up more resistance. Mastering the tenderness is just the beginning of BBQ mastery. It takes years - decades - to get it right, which is something some of the local trend-jumping restaurants can’t respect. Manimal feels like a BBQ lab, a work in progress. They’re starting out well, but they’re tweaking and improving. The other available meats are pulled pork, dry rubbed pork spare ribs with a satisfyingly crystalized crust and boneless chicken leg quarters. The chicken is a slight bit rubbery, but it’s on the right track.
FOOD & DRINK Edited by Joe McPherson (food@groovekorea.com)
All the meats come with a small side of sauce. Any good BBQ should be perfectly fine minus the sauce, but it’s a nice addition, with a smoky flavor that hints at chipotle peppers. Sides are homey comfort food. There’s a simple cheddar cornbread that brings me back to soul food cafés in Alabama. The apple celery slaw is a bit on the creamy side and not as sweet as one would dread. Chipotle lime potato salad has to be one of the best side dishes in Itaewon and should just be sold by the container. It’s only upstaged by the green chile mac and cheese, which really is a simply classic macaroni and cheese with fresh chiles, giving it a southwestern cowboy kick. Only one dessert mans the menu, the “Bananimal,” which is soft serve ice cream with cake, vanilla wafer crumbles, and fresh bananas—an ice cream version of banana pudding. The beverage menu rounds it out with fresh squeezed lemonade, iced teas, a few themed cocktails, craft beers, whisky and tequila. The atmosphere feels like a wild west saloon but with a hillside view of the neighborhood. The speakers play a blend of classic and modern American rock, hip hop and pop. It gets packed at times, but some nights, like Thursdays, are quite manageable. There’s a bar facing the windows, so it’s flexible for single diners. It’s now the new darling of the expat foodie crowd, and they’re a fighting ornery bunch. Despite all pack brawls between diners, the folks at Manimal and other American BBQ joints welcome the competition. More BBQ — how can there be anything wrong with that?
Ambience Food Service Value Score
June 2015 www.groovekorea.com 35
MORE INFO: MANIMAL 455-33 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu Directions: Itaewon Station, exit 1. Walk past Vatos and go up the hill. It’s on the second floor across from Berlin and Coreanos. The entrance is hidden behind the left side of the building. Careful walking back down those stairs after a few drinks. 02-790-6788 (no reservations) facebook.com/manimal
FOOD & DRINK Edited by Joe McPherson (food@groovekorea.com)
36 www.groovekorea.com June 2015
Wink Kitchen & Taphouse C H E V I C H E , B U R R ITOS AN D B E A R , OH Y E S !
I
Story by Charlotte Hammond / Photos by Joe McPherson
t’s hard to have a true neighborhood haunt in Seoul, maybe outside of a trusty Kimbap Cheonguk, as the city is ever changing, ever seeming to swallow establishments and reproduce new ones in a blink. WinK Kitchen and Taphouse in Gangnam, near Seoul National University of Education station, is an attempt to erect a comfortable, reliable neighborhood grill and bar where Seoulites of all walks of life have a seat at the table. The stylization of the name stems from owner Willam Cho’s organization WinK Travels (WinK standing for “When in Korea”) that organizes trips encouraging expats and others to explore Korea. WinK Kitchen & Taphouse is Cho’s latest attempt to bring people together through an age-old method — feeding them. Along with Chef Ryan Phillips, the two have created an eatery focused on Tex-Mex and Korean fusion, comfort and a bit of booze, too. The clear highlight of the starters is the ceviche. A shrimp rendering anchors the ceviche on the menu, although it’s constantly getting a boost from the house’s fresh catch. This is not a hot and tangy ceviche but a cool, soft one the server described as “sour.” Jeju-caught snapper graced this one, and it was a real treat, soaked in cucumber, vinegar, tomatoes and lime and served with tortilla chips. The ceviche is market price. The Jeju snapper rendition was 13,000 won. Other parts of the menu include “Bowls,” meaning pretty much anything you can put in a bowl from their Ori Duck Confit salad to a Brazilian Burrito Bowl, rice topped with carnitas, black beans, corn tortilla chips and salsa. “Tortillas and Breads” are a variety of Tex-Mex, sandwiches and burgers. The El Burrito (11,000 won), which the server warned to only order if we’re hungry, comes filled with three cheeses, carnitas pork,
black beans and house-made chorizo. It is definitely a burrito for the meat-inclined. Rib-sticking and healthfully spicy, it could have done with another element, one of the earth, probably. The cheese was hard to detect. The Pulled Pork Sandwich (11,000 won) causes gasps when plunked in front of diners. Two massive triangles splayed open exposing a generous pork filling streaked with purple apple slaw, a bed of waffle fries before them. In a day and age where we often describe junk food as sexy, let’s go ahead and say the glistening Texas Toast binding this sandwich is something of a turn-on. The sandwich is certainly a step up from standard junk food. The pork perfectly soft and smoky, the sweetness the apple slaw lends is just right. Again, you hardly taste the cheese here, but that doesn’t change the sandwich’s excellence. WinK’s beers on tap are some of the best priced in town. KABREW Hefeweizen is 6,600 won and the most expensive on the menu. Blogger and cocktail connoisseur Gemma Wardle has touted their Cranberry Jackass, a remix of a Moscow Mule, as well as the rest of their colorful cocktail menu (5,600 -7,000 won). As new as WinK is, its potential as a south-of-the-river comfort food standby stands out even as it finds its stride. MORE INFO: WinK Kitchen & Taphouse 1576-6 Seocho-dong, Seocho-gu WinK Kitchen & Taphouse can be found about 100 meters outside of Seoul National University of Education station’s exit 14. 02-6053-3429 Facebook.com/winkkitchenandtaphouse
Ambience Food Service Value Score
Story and photos by Joe McPherson
Korean Chefs:
Stop Violating Our Cuisine! Why are expats so angry about foreign food in Seoul?
Edited by Joe McPherson (food@groovekorea.com)
June 2015 www.groovekorea.com 37
communities with thriving food scenes. The restaurants are owned and operated solely by expats. Most Mexican restaurants in the U.S. are run and staffed by Mexicans. Hardly any are in Seoul. A foreign restaurant owner I knew, who ran his restaurant on his own, regularly got harassed by local bureaucrats, asking, “Why don’t you have a Korean partner?” The message to Until Korean governmental Korean chefs attitudes and regulations catch up with equivalent world citis to please, ies in cutting down barriers for please respect foreigners to own restaurants, Seoul’s culinary scene will nevthe food er reach that international coscultures they mopolitan ideal that the government desires. are trying to The retort I get sometimes mimic. is that the restaurants are just giving Koreans what they want. Are they? What does it say about the maturity of the Korean palate when all foreign food has to be turned into candy for consumption? A coffee expert postured the hypothesis that cultures tend to sweeten foreign foods when they’re first introduced. Then they move on to the more authentic versions. Are restaurants really giving Koreans what they want, or are Koreans eating sweet pickles in their Cubanos because they don’t have a choice? In 2011 Daniel Tudor created a shitstorm in his Economist article on how better North Korean beer is compared to South Korean. The major beer chaebols threw up their hands and said they were giving Koreans what they wanted. But the netizens chose not to circle the wagons that time. Foreign beers had been a big trend that summer, and Korean consumers demanded better from domestic suppliers. The chaebols later relented and introduced better products. The same is true with pizza. Since Neopolitan and New York styles have gained a foothold here, more Koreans are turning to those than the overloaded 20-topping discs with stuffed cream cheese raisin cookie crusts and blueberry dipping sauce. This is a lesson the new Chicago pizza places haven’t caught on to yet, which is why they’ll fade faster than last year’s soft serve honeycomb ice cream fad. The message to Korean chefs is to please, please respect the food cultures they are trying to mimic. Have respect for their diners. They aren’t children. Don’t add sugar. When a chef respects the food, people respect the chef.
FOOD & DRINK
P
izza with corn. Kebabs slathered in honey mustard. Sweet garlic bread. Ham sandwiches with strawberry jam. Why are Korean interpretations of foreign food so random? A better question, why are foreigners so upset by this? One can’t expect to eat authentic cuisine from one country in another. That’s symptomatic of the over-entitled expat, which is all too common here. Yet there is legitimacy to this frustration. Many expats in Seoul come from cities with much more culinary diversity, including fairly authentic Korean restaurants. There comes an implied expectation of reciprocation. South Korea also has strong nationalistic and ethnic pride, which unsettles non-Koreans. There’s a lot of “our food culture is better and healthier than yours.” The big push to globalize Korean cuisine puts a heavy emphasis on keeping the recipes pure, whatever that means. If Koreans expect the world to respect their cuisine, why do they show such a lack of respect for world cuisines? Seoul has long had the reputation as the world’s largest small town. Strides have been It’s frustrating made to diversify in the last ten years, but it’s still culinarily when restaurants homogenous compared to any have sandwiches other global metropolis. So when an IV drip of another culture or pizzas that comes in, there’s a gut feeling that Korean cooks take it and look like they violate it accordingly. They crewere made by ate Frankenstein creations by five-year-olds in using cheap gimmicks, naively thinking they’re being creative. the kitchen Creativity should always be encouraged. Variety should always be praised. Yet a restaurant should at least master the original dish before throwing canned corn and honey mustard on it. It’s frustrating when restaurants have sandwiches or pizzas that look like they were made by five-year-olds in the kitchen, and they don’t have the basics, like pepperoni. Expats wouldn’t have a problem if there was a choice to have the originals alongside the honey buttered monstrosities. One of the problems is that it’s still difficult for foreigners to run businesses in Korea. In L.A., New York, Atlanta and London there are thriving ethnic
FOOD & DRINK
PLANT Vegan. Seriously good vegan.
B
Story and Photos by Charlotte Hammond
Edited by Joe McPherson (food@groovekorea.com)
eeline to PLANT for sweet or savory delights that also happen to be vegan. Seoul’s lady of the vegan scene Mipa Lee, who started out with her blog Alien’s Day Out and a baked goods company of the same name, has fashioned PLANT into a miniscule space where there’s hot and cold coffee, a packed bakery case of vegan sweet treats and a main meal that changes daily. The vegan burrito bowl (12,000 won) is an earthy beans-and-rice-heavy offering amplified with a vegan chipotle aioli dressing. The baked goods are PLANT’s forte. The blueberry coffee cake was a fantastic companion to PLANT’s drip coffee, and the pumpkin-gingerbread cake was spicy and rich enough to make you wish fall was just around the corner. Baked goods are 5,000-6,000 won each. MORE INFO: PLANT Yongsan-gu, Itaewon-dong 63-15 070-4115-8388 Facebook.com/STUDIOPLANT
Cebu Grill and Live Bar
Philippine dining is taking hold?
P
38 www.groovekorea.com June 2015
Story and Photos by Jordan Redmond
ork and karaoke may seem like strange bedfellows, but at Cebu Grill and Live Cafe, both of these unholy pursuits conspire to create a slightly askew, yet typically warm Filipino dining experience. Pork liempo (roasted pork belly with vinegar dipping sauce) represents the most welcoming dish for Filipino food virgins as well as demonstrating some interesting foodway connections to Carolina vinegar-based BBQ sauces. Sinigang Na Baboy (pork belly and tamarind soup) is uniquely sour yet meaty and represents a good refresher between belting-out ballads. Red Horse beer, native desserts and juices and live music (of the professional kind) are also on offer at this unassuming underground oasis. To get there: Walk out of Dongnimmun Station exit 4. Turn the corner at the overpass and take the 7737 bus one stop in front of a Starbucks. Walk 20 or so paces and Cebu Grill is underground on your right.
MORE INFO: Cebu Grill and Live Bar 115-7 Daesin-dong, Seodaemun-gu 010-7315-1877 / 010-7151-1981
Story by Robbie Nguyen / Photos by Peter Kim
Khaleesi,
A Drink for a Dothraki Queen Edited by Joe McPherson (food@groovekorea.com)
1.25oz Aperol .5oz House Pimm’s .25oz Lychee Liqueur .25oz Rosemary Syrup .5oz Lemon Juice Club Soda 2 sprigs of Rosemary (garnish) 4 sprigs of Mint (garnish) 2 Cucumber slices (garnish)
I
nspired by the Mother of Dra gons, Aperol is the foundation of this cocktail, the sweeter and less bitter sister of Campari. It is an aperitif made from bitter orange, gentian rhubarb and various other ingredients. By combing the hou se Pimm’s, rosemary, lychee, mint and cucumber, a light, bright, refreshing and herbaceous libation is born. Club soda is added for effervescence. After a hard day of ruling and taming dragons, it’s the perfect drink for Da enerys to have in hand, surveying the kingdom beneath her.
May 2015 www.groovekorea.com 39
FOOD & DRINK
Story by Natalie Ler-Davies
Thirst Quenching Beer Find
Recipe
Story and photos by Natalie Ler-Davies
T
here are countless types of beers out there; different tastes and textures, different ingredients and even gluten free beer. Yes, it is available! High Street Market in Itaewon stocks a healthy number of craft beers and well known interna-
tional beers. Ranging from deep thick brown ales to tan and golden beers that are crisp and refreshing, they are sure to quench all levels of thirst as we enter the summer season. The Rogue Hazelnut Brown Nectar Brown Ale pairs really well with savory dishes.
MORE INFO: High Street Market Itaewon 2F, 737-24, Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu 10:00 a.m. - 09:00 p.m. 02-790-5450 highstreet.co.kr
Grilled Beer Battered Ham
& Cheese Sandwich Method
1.
Beat together eggs, flour, smoked paprika, beer and salt and pepper until well combined.
2.
Slice the bread in half and soak in the egg mixture, pressing down to ensure full absorption.
3.
Heat the frying pan with 1 tbsp of butter and fry 1 piece until golden brown. Take out and set aside. Place the 2nd slice of sourdough onto the pan and lower the heat.
4.
Mix the cheeses well into any leftover egg mixture and gently place on top of the sourdough slice in the pan, cover with a glass lid, and leave until the cheese melts.
40 www.groovekorea.com June 2015
Ingredients
1 thick slice Sourdough Bread 1/4 cup Beer 3 Eggs 1 tbsp Flour 1 cup shredded of a mix of Sharp Cheddar, Mozzarella and Monterey Jack Cheeses Generous slices of Ham/Bacon or Tomatoes, Avocados, Sun-dried Tomatoes 1 tsp Smoked Paprika 2 tbsp Butter Salt and Pepper to taste
nal: Optio Hash y Curr e c u a S
5.
Remove and seriously layer plenty of ham, bacon or tomatoes and avocado on top and cover with the other warm slice of sourdough and enjoy it asap, with the rest of the beer of course. No wastage. Optional: Pour over warmed hash curry sauce and enjoy.
WTF FOOD & DRINK
Ki
m
Soda Ramyeon
nd /
Pho
W
hat would happen if Olive TV gave Korean children, a generation raised on blitzkrieg convenience store dining, their own test kitchen? The result would likely look something like soda ramyeon, a bubbling trend amongst school-aged Korean gastronomes to splice instant noodles and soft drinks. Looking to capture the spirit of the Marco-Pierre Whites of the mart, an experi-
Restaurant Buzz News and finds from the Restaurant Buzz Facebook group Linus’ Bama Style BBQ 56-20 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu 02-790-2920
ment was conducted with six different pairings. Winners included Orange Fanta-infused Nagasaki Jjambbong (just like orange chicken) and the feisty tropical combo of Bul-Dalk Bokkeum Myeon and Pineapple Fanta. Inevitably, the R&D was concluded by making a “suicide” bowl. The result? Like a bag of melted Jolly Ranchers. Pro tip: add Mentos, the truffle oil of this scene, for a chewy rice cake-like consistency.
C
ongratulations to Linus Kim of Linus’ Bama Style BBQ. He was part of a cooking team at the BBQ World Championship Memphis in May (the world’s most prestigious BBQ contest), and they won sixth place out of 119 in chicken and first place in wings. Il Gelato has created a stir. Run by a couple who met at Gelato University in Bologna Italy, it’s been getting the stamp of approval by the local Italian crowd as being the most authentic “Gelato Artigianale” in Seoul. For fine dining, Bistrot de Yountville in Cheongdam has been getting praise, even from highly finicky French residents, for its tasting menu, comparing it to a high end Parisian bistro. You can also get the latest restaurant reviews organized by location and cuisine in the Seoul Restaurant Expat Guide, available at Amazon.com. E-book and paperback.
Il Gelato 61 Nonhyeon-ro 175-gil, Gangnam-gu 010-5496-2309
Bistrot de Yountville 83-6 Cheongdam-dong, Gangnam-gu 02-541-1550
June 2015 www.groovekorea.com 41
Story by Joe McPherson
Edited by Joe McPherson (food@groovekorea.com)
Story by Jo
o edm rdan R
Pe by s to
r te
Band that Loves Labels
Edited by Stewart McFeat (stewart@groovekorea.com)
ENTERTAINMENT
The
We explore the words and noises of electro-rockers DTSQ
Story by Stewart McFeat with the assistance of Eric Davis / Photos by Robert Evans / Translation by Hwang Yoon-jae
42 www.groovekorea.com June 2015
‘Below the ’80s slasher movie-inspired font there was nothing attached: no Web address, Facebook page link, not even a nod to a Naver site.’
Words The letters DTSQ adhere to ATMs, lampposts and public toilet walls in Hongdae and Haebangchon. When you first saw the sticker, your mind produced a number of questions: Was it some civic-minded attempt to warn others of this season’s H1N1 plague? Was it guerrilla marketing for a new budget horror movie on at the expat movie festival? Perhaps you guessed it was a band; some kind of heavy metal. You then proceeded to toy with the possibilities of the name. Deranged Tarantulas Strumming Quirkily. Dissonant Tenebrous Syllable Quagmire. Divine Tetris Squalor. Below the ’80s slasher-movie-inspired font there was nothing attached: no Web address, Facebook page link, not even a nod to a Naver site. DTSQ or Delta Sequence, an allusion to the ’80s electro-rock band Depeche Mode, are entirely Korean, but any sense of uniformity ends there. Their influences are as scattered as the locations in which their name can be found. Dr. Who, Pink Floyd,
the movie Interstellar (when I read this now, I recall that Pink Floyd actually made a song titled “Interstellar Overdrive”) as well as ’80s slasher flicks and the band MGMT at least influenced their name. Which brings us back to DTSQ. This was not the original name of the band; they could have been “Private Human Insane.” They had gambled on an a band-naming application, which consumed words that had some appeal to them and spat out a name that clearly did not. “A truly stupid name” and “a horrible choice,” remarks Suhyun, the band’s lead singer. A YouTube video of Depeche Mode’s Delta Machine led to the name Delta Sequence, which in turn led fans to complain that it was impossible to pronounce. DTSQ was born, as was the sticker-bombing of all number of moving and stationary objects: a motorcycle, on a backpack of someone walking in front of them, on the Paul McCartney poster on the side of the bus for his performance in Korea, and on the back of a band member’s head.
WED
JUNE
Noise
Music
Colin Phils, Wasted Johnny’s, Love X Stereo, Magna Fall, Shelbyville 10:30pm / Cost: KRW 10,000 includes a free T-shirt Club Freebird 2 Basement 1st floor, 408-17 Seokyodong SAT
JUNE
06
THU
JUNE
05
Film
Frances Ha 2:00pm / Cost: Free Korean Film Archive 400 Worldcup buk-ro, Mapo-gu Seoul, 121-904 Korea www.koreafilm.org/main/main.asp
Theatre
Titus Andronicus 2:00pm & 7:00 pm Cost: KRW 20,000 online reservation KRW 25,000 (on the door) www.seoulshakespearecompany.org Theater Egg and Nucleus, Hyehwa Station(Line 4, Exit 2). 1-140 Dongsung-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul
Theatre
Titus Andronicus 2:00pm & 7:00 pm / Cost: KRW 20,000 online reservation KRW 25,000 (on the door) www.seoulshakespearecompany.org Theater Egg and Nucleus, Hyehwa Station(Line 4, Exit 2). 1-140 Dongsung-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul THU
JUNE
11
SUN
JUNE
07
Edited by Stewart McFeat (stewart@groovekorea.com)
‘Whether it’s Club FF with its sticky patina of punk-stank or the teacup-sized Railrock in which they deposit a storm, DTSQ throw a live performance that is enjoyably overwhelming.’
03
Labyrinth 7:00pm / Cost: Free Korean Film Archive 400 Worldcup buk-ro, Mapo-gu Seoul, 121-904 Korea www.koreafilm.org/main/main.asp
ENTERTAINMENT
Whether it’s Club FF with its sticky patina of punk-stank or the teacup-sized Railrock in which they deposit a storm, DTSQ throw a live performance that is enjoyably overwhelming. They all seem to be in different states of dealing with an imminent apocalyptic event. Su-hyun spends most of the show airborne, taking flight from the scene; bass player Sunhyung is perpetually hidden behind a mask of hair as he thrashes the guitar — what he can’t see won’t hurt him. Sun-pyung hunkers down among his drums like it’s a bunker; Jun-sup is frantically switching back and forth between a guitar, keyboard and a laptop like someone who is trying to keep control of everything while losing his mind. The thing is, they’re not hiding from an event. They are the event. Their best show, according to them, involved a drinking contest with their audience, one of their many proud moments of crowd interaction. Their worst show tells us more. DTSQ appeared at a wedding only to find there was no kick drum. An upturned metal bucket from a nearby toilet was used instead. The lyrics they had failed to memorize were written on a piece of paper, but a strong gust scattered the words to the wind. Desperation gave rise to resourcefulness and they made up the lyrics as the wedding unfurled. Some tracks inelegantly unraveled, but one kept its shape: “Your Meaning.”
Film
Film
The Life Aquatic with Steve Zissou 7:30pm / Cost: Free Korean Film Archive 400 Worldcup buk-ro, Mapo-gu Seoul, 121-904 Korea www.koreafilm.org/main/main.asp
Film
Jurassic World General Release Cost: From KRW 6,000 early bird price – KRW 30,000 (CGV Gold Class)
Labels
Music
Ultra Music Festival www.umfkorea.com/home Cost: KRW 110,000 (1 day) KRW 180,000 (2 day combo) Main stadium of Jamsil Sports Complex 29, Olympic-ro, Songpa-gu, Seoul http://u-ticket.co.kr/umfkorea/tickets/
DTSQ will be playing at Table People’s CD release party on June 19 at DGBD, Seoul Mapo-Gu Seogyo-Dong 395-17 from 7 pm -1 am Admission: 15,000 won, including a free CD
JUNE
Full lineup Table People, DTSQ, Les Sales, Cogason, Mountains, Vidulgi OoyoO
SAT
13
Music
JUNE
12,13
V.O.G.U.E. 10:00pm / Cost: Guestlist before 11pm: 10,000w + free drink No Guestlist or after 11pm: 20,000w + free drink Cakeshop, Itaewon B1 34-16 Itaewon, Yongsan-Gu, Seoul, Korea
June 2015 www.groovekorea.com 43
DTSQ, a group that struggles with words but has no problem with meaning; a band that loves labels yet can barely be categorized. When we asked them about their plans, they said “Today, London; tomorrow, New York; the day after tomorrow, Paris, then Spain!” Perhaps they won’t make it to those places soon and maybe you won’t want them to leave. Get them while they don’t have links to Facebook, a blog or the ultimately civilizing face of LinkedIn. Get them while they are on their own label, the only one with any meaning: DTSQ.
FRI, SAT
Story by Stewart McFeat / Photo stills courtesy of the film directors via KIXFF
44 www.groovekorea.com June 2015
Edited by Stewart McFeat (stewart@groovekorea.com)
ENTERTAINMENT
cinema unltd.
T
Kor ea Indie and Expat Movie Festiv al pushes boundaries and envelopes.
he sun is setting on Haebangchon’s boulevard and the last of the tourists are slipping into the incipient dusk; the locals lounge a little longer at the close of the holiday weekend. Kevin Lambert is sitting at a table opening out onto the street illuminated by the screen of his laptop while basking in the burnt umber of the sun. He’s poised to exchange information with anyone online or passing by with one foot in the analog world and the other in the digital domain. Lambert talks to me about the Jeonju Film Festival, using it as a pivot to make connections to other directors and movies and projects before looping back round to the event. He apologizes for the lack of focus in his chatter with the same baffling ingenuousness as the Northern European who asks forgiveness for speaking English “inelegantly.” Words come with a clarity and consistency that one rarely gets outside a textual format or from someone who is so familiar with a subject that any discussion on it becomes a motor skill. His latest film project is something of a social experiment; it’s as local as the little café in which he is perched and as global as the screen in front of him will allow. The Korea Indie and Expat Movie Festival will arrive on our doorstep June 18 with an array of films: 38 shorts and nine feature-length works by local and international filmmakers. The selection was made from over 150 submissions from over 20 countries including Tuvalu and Iran. Independent movies will be featured but more interestingly, movies by expats about expatriatism. Bookended by screenings at Indiespace at Seoul Cinema, all other screenings will be either indoor or outdoor and are planned to be in smaller, more intimate spaces, run by local businesses in Haebangchon, Gyeongnidan and Itaewon. This decision was as central to the ideological themes of the event as it was for convenience: viewers don’t need to taxi across town to catch another flick; being uprooted is limited to the films and the discussions. KIXFF originated as a grant proposal for $1,000 (USD) from Smplmchn.com, which the team didn’t win, but Lambert’s interest was undiminished. Originally anchored in the concept of movies about expat issues, it expanded to include low-budget independent films that demanded to be seen. As a film enthusiast, he has suitably looked at the project from multiple angles. For the audience, he offers an experience of intimacy and engagement. “If we can get people talking, even when they don’t like a film, perhaps we can encourage them to make their own. Everybody has a camera, thus everybody can make a film. We want to pull back the curtain and show how this machine works.” This transparency is not only for audience members and potential filmmakers but for those who submitted to the festival, too. Lambert’s team made sure the selection process was clear and gave each film constructive feedback. If it’s not completely unique, this is certainly a profound rarity on the festival scene. The governing body, at all stages, is empathy. What lies at its thematic core is the question of being an expat; not only concerned with what local expats are doing but what it means to be an expat anywhere in the world and an exploration of what it is to be “home.” MORE INFO KIXFF June 18- 21 at venues in and around Haebongchon Opening Night: Thursday June 18, 7-10 p.m. Cost: 10,000 won Indie Space at Seoul Cinema, 13, Donhwamun-ro, Jongno-gu, Seoul Opening Night: Local Expat Shorts [01:29:22] 1. Horla [00:11:00] / 2. One Minded [00:20:00] / 3. The Woman [00:06:01] 4. Bag of Bones [00:14:36] / 5. Battle of Wills [00:08:19] / 6. Herbie of Montlieu Goes to Distant Lands [00:29:27]
http://kixff.com/official-selections-features/
‘His latest film project is something of a social experiment; it’s as local as the little café in which he is perched and as global as the screen in front of him will allow.’
“Herbie of Montlieu Goes to Distant Lands” is a doc by a filmmaker looking to find his wayward Uncle Herb, whom he has only known through the wild dissimulated tales from his Grandpa, and who his family has known little about since he left for the Korean War.
SAT, SUN
JUNE
13,14
Music
Giraffage 9:00pm / Cost: KRW 50,000 (Advance) KRW (60,000 On the door.) Club Freebird 2 Basement 1st floor, 408-17 Seokyodong, Mapogu, Seoul. THU-SUN
JUNE
18-21
Art
FRI
19
Marc Rothko 11:00am-8:00pm (Mon-Sun) Cost: KRW 15,000 Seoul Arts Center 2406 Nambusunhwan-ro, Seocho
just redefine how expats engage with their (dis)position. That sense of isolation will be overcome through witnessing the same challenges in different countries. The feeling of powerlessness is overturned through creating new ways of expressing a problem, new pathways in finding solutions and a new sense of taking control. We all bear the responsibility of making the place in which we live our home. KIXFF encourages us to work together to form that community. It’s just beginning and Lambert isn’t promising the world; but he just might reinvent the neighborhood.
JUNE
June 2015 www.groovekorea.com 45
the world they take on new meaning, new responses, new uses. The day-trippers that we see disappearing back into environs more familiar to them are in fact Korean. Itaewon, Gyeongnidan and even Haebangchon have become popular spots for some light cultural tourism. Couples and groups cheerily take snaps of stores and locals, creating their own digital postcards to be uploaded to the ubiquitous world of the Internet. This has met with an occasionally insightful but often prickly discussion of what it means to be an expat in Korea. KIXFF might
18
Edited by Stewart McFeat (stewart@groovekorea.com)
20-28
JUNE
Korea Indie and Expat Movie Festival http://kixff.com/ Cost: KRW 10,000, TBA
Table People’s CD release party with DTSQ, Mountains, Les Sales, Vidulgi OoyoO, Cogason 7:00pm / Cost: KRW 15,000 DGBD 23, Jandari-ro, Mapo-gu, Seoul
JUNE
THU
Film
Music
SAT-SUN
“Home Movie,” a festival premiere and a favorite of Lambert’s, approaches themes of immigration and abandonment and plunges deep into the challenges of retrieval, leaving questions for the grander scope of filmmaking and photography in their pursuit of recording or even creating “home.” And as we watch them here in Seoul, there will be the chance to experience films beyond their geographic origins — in a second tier of displacement. It is a near-literal demonstration of the idea that things we create are like postcards; when we send them out into
Titus Andronicus 2:00pm & 7:00 pm / Cost: KRW 20,000 online reservation KRW 25,000 (on the door) www.seoulshakespearecompany.org Theater Egg and Nucleus, Hyehwa Station(Line 4, Exit 2). 1-140 Dongsung-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul
ENTERTAINMENT
“The Winds that Scatter” and “Self-Deportation: The Untold Tale of a Marginal Woman” both take wildly different approaches to the American dream and the risks of having to create a new home. In the “Winds that Scatter,” a Syrian man meets with the fiscal challenges of being an immigrant in America. “Self-Deportation: The Untold Tale of a Marginal Woman” explores America as a dream-like urban landscape peppered with archetypical versions of cheerleaders and firefighters and toying with psychoanalytic concepts of the “unhomely/uncanny.”
Theatre
Ko r eaFM. net
46 www.groovekorea.com June 2015
Edited by Stewart McFeat (stewart@groovekorea.com)
ENTERTAINMENT
Expat broadcaster creates Korea-centric online radio station for independent broadcasters and musicians
Korea FM
Story by Stewart McFeat with the assistance of Chance Dorland/ Photos courtesy of KoreaFM.net
Miguk media marauder Chance Dorland’s new venture is putting the programming where it should be: with those who create the content. He’s created a community-driven platform where listeners can get the latest on local bands, upcoming concerts and have a forum for the issues of the day. You, the listener, the music-maker, the news-maker or simply the opinion-maker will have an impact on what goes on this radio station. While there is rewarding English radio out there, Dorland feels many English-speaking expats and Koreans aren’t interested in much of the content that’s being produced.
Dorland has worked in TV and radio in major international markets with the likes of Jimmy Kimmel, Conan O’Brien, Howard Stern and even radio with the Peace Corps. The solution? Korea Fm. It has an entirely accountable bureaucracy of one, though Dorland would never regard himself as bureaucratic in any sense. A straight-talking, chops-busting upstart who calls it as it is or as he thinks it is
and provokes you to call him out on it. Dorland is a broadcaster, who’s worked in TV and radio in major international markets with the likes of Jimmy Kimmel, Conan O’Brien, Howard Stern and even radio with the Peace Corps. He’s seen how much can be accomplished with homegrown media — in this case he actually has his studio set up at home. And so he invites you the rocker, the talk radio host and the YouTube star to take advantage of his new platform and his expertise for making airwaves. KoreaFM.net is an online radio station that streamlines your favorite Korea-related podcasts and musicians, but also offers new, original content that focuses on areas Dorland feels are often underreported by Korean media entities. His team has already joined forces with a cacophony of independent broadcasters like Cafe Seoul, g1 pdcst, Korea and the World, The Korea Society, Korea Underground, Seoul Podcast, The Korea File, Notebook On Cities and Culture, Asia News Weekly, and even Groove Magazine’s audio podcast: The GrooveCast (which Dorland hosts). More than this, he has a thrill of local music at his disposal, including artists like Les Sales, Colin Phils, BaekMa, Nice Legs, Love X Stereo, Tierpark, Magna Fall, Shelbyville, New Blue Death, Table People, Used Cassettes and Wasted Johnny’s. Dorland is looking to bring new bands and independent broadcasters onboard as Korea FM continues to evolve.(Watch this space!)
To start things off right (and because he wanted to give away a ton of free Korea FM t-shirts), please join Chance and the rest of his band and podcast friends on Friday, June 5 at Freebird 2 (Big Bird) in Hongdae. 10,000 won gets you 5 bands, a Korea FM t-shirt, and a chance to meet and mingle with some of the top independent musicians and media creators in Korea. And if your band would like to have its music played, or if you’re interested in talking about issues that often go unreported by the Korean media, get in touch with his team on their website, KoreaFM.net.
HOW TO LISTEN
Visit KoreaFM.net to stream free music and talk radio stations through your web browser, iTunes, Windows Media Player, or Android/iOS Applications
CONCERT INFO
Friday, June 5th 10:30pm Freebird 2 (Big Bird) with Colin Phils, Wasted Johnny’s, Love X Stereo, Magna Fall & Shelbyville
C
akeshop’s V.O.G.U.E. invites people of all sartorial, sexual and gender dimensions to a night of sweat and sequins distinguished by a re-emerging dance trend. Begun a little over a year ago by Seb Rousset, Cakeshop sought an LGBT alternative to the K-Pop and house platitudes of “The Hill” in Itaewon. It also sought to be more open to all in its door policy. Now helmed by DJ’s Mike Hampton (Shins) Lindsay Ryklief (Ligrye) and Andrew Wood (Wood X) it plays a mix of ballroom house, jersey club, ‘90s house and some disco/RnB. It has boasted such international guests as Brenmar and Le1F. Even if these terms and names are unfamiliar to you, the musical talent involved is scaffolding for a much greater cultural structure: Voguing. The floor in front becomes the space where celebrities are made, and those behind the decks merely facilitate the parade. Voguing’s social currency is confirmed in Korea through its presence in K-Pop band Shinwa’s video for the track “This Love.” Its international relevance is supported by the moves of FKA Twigs, the UK’s refreshingly idiosyncratic new music sensation, who’ll be making her debut in Seoul in late July. As other clubs become more “open” it is this subcultural accent that marks out this party from others. Begun in the 1970’s by the gay black and Latino communities exemplified in the highly influential 1990s documentary on Harlem’s gay ballroom scene, “Paris is Burning,” Voguing was an element in these fantastic rituals that incorporated fashion stereotypes and extremes into a theatrical multi-layered competition. The dance, now synonymous with the broader context of the performance, is most commonly known through Madonna’s 1990s hit and the movements in her music video. Egyptian hieroglyphs, the geometric lines of catwalk poses, along with precise yet fluid transitions are typ-
With thanks to Mike Hampton and Lindsay Ryklief
ical of the “Old Way” of Vogue. In this and in the later style of “Vogue Fem,” a more physically athletic version that incorporates elements of ballet, modern and jazz dance forms, there is also the element of the dance face-off. Rivals are in the paradoxical relationship of having to collaborate while trying to outdo the other. In such a way, it has similarities to rap battles where contestants take turns to lyrically show disrespect to the other. According to Dorian Corey of “Paris is Burning,” the exchange of put-downs of varying degrees of wit is central to the origins of Vogue. The witty insult, or “throwing shade” as it is known in the gay community, is an attempt to challenge the other to a verbal contest. In all cases, there will be a winner but the performance is of much greater significance. In Itaewon’s Vogue party there are house dancers who initiate the floor play: a space emerges for two to compete before others take over. Rivals emerge, disappear and take on other partners in a loose free-for-all that finds its structure in these impromptu contests. As an interactive event, the extent of the dance will much depend on the audience. People can move in and out of their comfort zone as their feelings direct them. True to its origins, participants are encouraged to dress up but the dress code is an open code to be interpreted with imagination. Cakeshop offers an ideal taster of Vogue culture. Perhaps someday we’ll get a full banquet: the first supper of a new religion.
Edited by Stewart McFeat (stewart@groovekorea.com)
V.O.G.U.E.
ENTERTAINMENT
Story by Stewart McFeat / Photos by Chris Tzitzis
An urban dance ritual brings focus to Seoul’s anything goes party night in preparation for Gay Pride
Egyptian hieroglyphs, the geometric lines of catwalk poses along with precise yet fluid transitions are typical of the “Old Way” of Vogue.
June 2015 www.groovekorea.com 47
MORE INFO: V.O.G.U.E. Pride Party Cakeshop, 34-16 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul, Korea, B1, Seoul, Korea Guest list before 11 p.m.: 10,000 won + free drink No Guest list or after 11 p.m.: 20,000 won + free drink
Previews by Dean Crawford
AT THE BOX OFFICE THE BIG SCREEN
Previews by Simon McEnteggart
A Bastion of Cinema
The Korean Film Archive
Edited by Stewart McFeat (stewart@groovekorea.com)
ENTERTAINMENT
L
Jurassic World D i r .
48 www.groovekorea.com June 2015
H
C o l i n
T r e v o r r o w
old onto your butts, because it’s utive producer, which I’m guessing in time to revisit one of your fa- this instance means that his creative vorite movies from the ’90s and input is extremely limited. Colin Trevorrow, director of Indie favorite “Safety take a trip back to Jurassic Park! Jurassic World is set 22 years after the Not Guaranteed,” sits in the director’s original film and takes place on the is- chair. While his lack of big-budget film land of Nublar - a fully functioning tour- experience might seem like a cause for ist hot spot which attracts thousands of concern to some, you have to realize that people who want to see dinosaurs roam Marvel has been employing this strategy in their “natural” habitat. Or perform wa- for what seems like forever and look at ter tricks like a dino version of Shamu the the success the company has had. Who whale. To increase interest (as if seeing would have thought one of the directors frickin’ dinosaurs wouldn’t be interesting of Movie 43 and an episode of Humanenough!) scientists create a hybrid dino- zee! would have made a film as good a saur called the Indominous Rex, which “Guardians of the Galaxy”? And not to causes chaos after it escapes its confines. worry, even if Steven Spielberg isn’t reIt’s left to head of security Owen Grady turning, the good news is that the original (Chris Pratt) and his team to hunt down T-Rex is, and let’s be honest, he (she? it?) and stop the hybrid dinosaurs from run- was the real star of the first movie. The gates to Jurassic World open in regning wild. Steven Spielberg returns as an exec- ular and IMAX 3D screens on June 11.
ocated in the stylishly high-tech Digital Media City in Sangam, Seoul, The Korean Film Archive (KOFA) is a true bastion of Korean film and the cinema industry. Celebrating its 40th anniversary only last year, the nonprofit organization is dedicated to the preservation and restoration of Korea’s cinematic heritage through the collection of classic K-films, as well as screening them for the general public for free. Yet such a task often proves to be particularly difficult due to the peninsula’s fraught history. Through various colonization periods and more recently the Korean War, KOFA estimates that around 40 percent of the country’s filmic history is considered lost, stolen, or simply misplaced. There is hope however, as occasionally film aficionados discover troves of long-forgotten reels, as was the case earlier this year when an incredible 94 classic Korean films from celebrated masters were discovered and donated to the organization. Yet KOFA boasts more than simply archival skills as it has branched out online through the creation of a specialized YouTube channel. Featuring around 100 Korean titles, all with English subtitles, audiences with an interest in the country’s rich cinematic history have plenty of choice to view works of celebrated auteurs of old. The building also houses The Korean Film Museum, which features props and posters from productions ranging the 1900s through to more contemporary works, a film reference library containing a staggering array of titles, and The Cinematheque KOFA, which holds three screens — all of which are free to enter. In June, a large number of international productions are due to be screened alongside Korean fare. The lineup of films includes:
“Labyrinth” (1986), director Jim Henson. Starring David Bowie and Jennifer Connelly, the beloved fantasy adventure follows a young frustrated girl who must journey to a mysterious land to save her baby brother.
The other is that of Byeongman, who works at a gas station and repairs fire extinguishers. The film, which is screened in black and white, jostles around loosely or sits patiently as each of them struggles to accomplish much of anything. Byeongman stalks a young co-worker, Songi, and offers her a trinket, which she unsurprisingly rejects, before he’s accosted for cigarettes by a rascally gang of three high school girls. Jeongmi, meanwhile, suffers the brunt of her director’s ire while trying to avoid her landlord, to whom she owes rent. The film is charming and irreverent, wasting no opportunity to revel in the characters’ ineptitudes, all the while allowing the characters some degree of empathy, whether it be an improv. noraebang classic in the back of a taxi or relenting to the ridiculous demands of a hapless director. Park and Kimjung shot and released a two-hour version of “The Romance of a Mediocre Actress and Short Bald Man” in 2008, only completing the film at its current running time of 75 brisk minutes this past year. There’s a lot to be said for the perseverance of the directors to not give up and to find the diamond in the rough, polishing away 45 minutes from the prior finished cut. “The Romance of a Mediocre Actress and Short Bald Man” will be screening in Seoul at the end of June at the Korea Indie and Expat Film Festival (KIXFF).
June 2015 www.groovekorea.com 49
“Frances Ha” (2013), director Noah Baumbach. The highly acclaimed indie comedy-drama explores the life and relationships of a dancer in New York City. The Korean Film Archive is served by Digital Media City subway station, yet from there a bus or taxi is recommended. You can visit the official KOFA website here for directions and the full screening schedule at www. koreafilm.org
T
his May the 16th Jeonju International Film Festival hosted nearly 200 films from 47 countries, in six cinemas, on 17 screens, with about 90,000 seats. At that, you still had to buy tickets early. In previous years, the festival sold out in a similar fashion as the larger Busan IFF, leaving day-of ticket buyers to wake early and line up, cardboard mat in hand. While this year offered more in the way of seating, thanks to a new IMAX CGV across the river, much of the charm of Jeonju’s Cinema Street remains. Of the international films premiering at this year’s fest, some of the more notable include Noah Baumbach’s “While We’re Young” (reviewed in last month’s Groove) which feels as much classic Baumbach (think “Kicking and Screaming”) as it does Woody Allen (there’s a caper involved), as well as Pedro Costa’s “Horse Money,” which uses light as a more literal interpretation of Plato’s Cave while burrowing into a dying man’s life and his ghosts. In the Korean competition, there were 10 films shown of 118 entries, one of which was Park Youngim and Kimjung Minwoo’s charming story of starcrossed losers, “The Romance of a Mediocre Actress and a Short Bald Man.” The film traverses two narratives, one of the actress, Jeongmi, who takes a role on a low-budget indie film where she has a lead role.
Edited by Stewart McFeat (stewart@groovekorea.com)
16 th Jeonju International Film Festival
ENTERTAINMENT
“The Life Aquatic with Steve Zissou” (2003), director Wes Anderson. Bill Murray leads the star-studded cast as an eccentric oceanographer in search of the shark that ate his partner.
Previews by Kevin Lambert / Photos courtesy of Jeonju International Film Festival
Losers and Shakers
F R EE M AR K ET
Live Club Day Story and photos courtesy of Company F
T
here’s a reason music lovers flock to Hongdae every weekend. The diverse range of performances on offer can satisfy even the most unique tastes. Whether you’re looking for an intimate space to sit and relax while listening to an acoustic set or a packed venue where you can rock out, you’ll find it in Hongdae, Seoul’s music hub. But with so many great shows to choose from how do you pick just one? Easy, you don’t. You pick ten. Live Club Day offers the gig-goer a unique music experience. Each month Live Club Day takes over Hongdae to bring you the best acts across multiple venues. With the purchase of a single ticket you can get into the most exciting music spots in Hongdae. The event, which is quickly becoming a calendar fixture, gives you access to ten different clubs where you can see bands and musicians perform everything from rock, jazz and hip hop to electronic, crossover and more.
L E E s e un g - HWA N After a four-year hiatius Live Club Day made its return in March and has successfully delivered three nights of top-grade music, with many more to come. The consistently stellar line-ups have ensured packed-out venues that are rocked to their cores. Live Club Day gives everyone the chance to see some of the most exciting names in the indie scene as well as introducing some of the lesser known, but equally talented, up-and-coming artists. So don’t miss out on the next installment of this electric monthly event. Early-bird tickets for the first three events were snapped up quickly so be sure to get yours. Tickets can be purchased from the Groove Korea website every month and, when paid via Paypal, you receive a free drink. Tickets can also be purchased on the night.
CO R E M AG AZ I N E
50 www.groovekorea.com June 2015
P A r k Y oon - woo T R I O
A ZBUS
NEWTON
Vibrant Colors Consumed by Fire Reflections on a Balinese funeral Story and photos by Alex Nems
T R A V E L Edited by Eileen Cahill (eileen@groovekorea.com)
June 2015 www.groovekorea.com 53
54 www.groovekorea.com June 2015
Edited by Eileen Cahill (eileen@groovekorea.com)
T R A V E L
T
he day started with breakfast in bed: dragon fruit, “salak” (snakeskin fruit), nuts, toast and coffee. Little did I know that I would see a half-burned body before dinner. I had a few days off around the Lunar New Year and wanted to go some place warm. My husband was working in Congo at the time, so we picked a vacation spot that wasn’t too far for either one of us. Bali was his idea, but I’m glad he talked me into it. We rented a small villa close to Echo Beach, where surfers in their 40s went to bed at 10 p.m. No nightlife, no clubs — just a few restaurants, spas and rice paddies. We had a fantastic driver who spoke English, so we asked him to show us the real Bali: the foods that local people enjoyed, the markets where they shopped. Gunputra delivered it all — we were breakfasting at local cafés and dining in places we would have given a wide berth before.
On our way to see the Ubud village, north of the place where we were staying, by chance we happened to see a funeral procession passing by. It was probably the first time in my husband’s life that he did not complain about a traffic jam. It was his idea to jump out of the car and follow the procession on foot. Balinese funerals, or “ngaben,” are famous throughout the world; they are colorful events full of singing and celebration. The deceased are cremated outdoors in a daylong, picnic-like affair before their ashes are buried at sea. Close to 85 percent of Balinese identify as Hindu, yet the island’s indigenous animistic traditions have a strong influence on their beliefs and practices. As bizarre as it may seem to Westerners, Balinese have great fun during cremation ceremonies. It is a time for the whole family to gather and mingle with friends and neighbors.
T R A V E L Edited by Eileen Cahill (eileen@groovekorea.com)
Gunputra seemed to know everyone on the island, including some members of the deceased man’s family. We asked if it was OK to join in the ceremony, and to our surprise Gunputra said it was no problem.
mony I noticed two other foreign couples taking photos, but it didn’t seem to bother anyone. The atmosphere recalled weddings more than funerals — after all, the families were celebrating the fact that their loved ones would soon be reborn. Of course Balinese feel grief like anyone else, but they are taught to suppress it and focus on helping the soul cross over. What struck me the most was the barbecue stand peddling satay chicken, skewered on bamboo sticks, no more than 10 meters away from the burning bodies. It was almost surreal. All those vibrant colors being consumed by fire. It makes you realize that once you are dead, it’s all gone; your life will simply vanish. You can’t take any belongings with you to the afterlife. Somehow, it makes you understand that you must use every opportunity to live your life with no regrets — enjoy your time on Earth and never look back. MORE INFO To learn more about Balinese funerals and the beliefs behind the rituals, please see “Ngaben: emotion & restraint in a Balinese heart” (film guide), http://www.der.org/resources/studyguides/ngaben-study-guide.pdf.
June 2015 www.groovekorea.com 57
We found out that the dead man was one of the village elders. His family was carrying his shrouded remains to the cremation site on a
bamboo tower, together with a huge sarcophagus in the form of a black bull. The relatives twirled the body around during the procession to confuse the man’s spirit and prevent him from finding his way home. Once the procession reached the burial ground, in keeping with the local custom, the shrouded remains were placed in the sarcophagus and set on fire. Another person was being cremated nearby. It was a horrifying sight, from my perspective, yet the locals seemed relaxed and cheerful. No one stayed silent. Children were playing and hawkers were selling toys. Nobody was crying — people were sitting on the grass, chatting and laughing. On our way back, Gunputra answered our questions about the things we’d seen. Later, I did some research and learned that the rituals reflected Balinese beliefs surrounding karma and reincarnation. Balinese believe that cremating the body frees the soul, which can then ascend to heaven and be reborn. Before the cremation, family members wash and prepare the body — often after exhuming it from a temporary grave because funerals can cost thousands of dollars. We were the only foreigners to join the funeral procession early on, when the body had just left the house. During the cremation cere-
SPORTS Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)
More than Story by Liam Ring / Photo by Anna Desmarais
Just Grappling Brazilian Jiu-Jitsu is offering more to gyms than just weights and exercise machines.
58 www.groovekorea.com June 2015
B
razilian Jiu-Jitsu has built a staunch following over recent years. Having moved from the mixed martial arts (MMA) ring into gyms across the world, people have discovered a sport that offers fitness, increased self-confidence and self-defence. Numerous gyms across Seoul offer classes on a regular basis, with multiple ages and levels available, so the opportunity to grapple with new friends is just a quick Google away. It’s a world away from the monotony of the traditional gym experience, which is most likely to stop people from getting fit. Anna Desmarais, the founder and manager of Body & Seoul Martial Arts and Fitness Center, has always been interested and dabbled in BJJ and
is now committed to it. However, she wishes she had made that decision sooner. “I love the workout, the camaraderie, and the mental challenges among other things, and I plan on doing this for the rest of my life.” This is testimonial enough from someone who’s also trained in Taekwondo and Muay Thai. Sprouting from the Japanese Jiu-Jitsu, the sport focuses on moves from an established standing position in the late nineteenth century, Brazilian Jiu-Jitsu (BJJ) came to see an international prominence with the performances of UFC hall of famer Royce Gracie in the 1990s. His focus on floor-based grappling saw him win three UFC events as one fighter after another submitted. While many in the MMA fraternity saw Gracie’s victories as indicative of how BBJ could overcome other
I love the workout, the camaraderie, and the mental challenges among other things, and I plan on doing this for the rest of my life.
every WED
weather permitting
03 JUNE
Seoul Cycle From 8pm Check Seoul Cycle’s Facebook page or www.seoulcycle.com/ for further details.
Seoul Baseball League
Dillingers / Beer O’Clock / Sam Ryan’s / Route 66 9am and 12pm Gwacheon Government Complex (Line 4)
EVERY SAT
JUNE
06
Seoul Gaels GAA training Seoul Gaels Men’s and Ladies’ Gaelic Football teams / Hurling and Camogie teams 2pm to 4pm / Yongsan Army Base
SAT
JUNE
06
Korea Ex-pat Rugby Association
Seoul Survivors, Cheongju / Daejeon Knights, Busan Bandits, Geoje Rugby, Jeonnam Aliens, Barbarians, Military side from Yongsan and Pyontaek. 12pm / Busan @ Baek UnPO Sports Park.
Cycling the 4 Rivers Path stamp challenge
Seoul Cycle Check Seoul Cycle’s facebook for details Han River
JUNE
Most Wednesdays evenings / Sunday Mornings
JUNE
13,14
FRI
JUNE
12
Ultimate Frisbee players & sides from around Korea 9.30am until 5pm Dadaepo Beach – a taxi ride from Sinpyeong Station (Check the KUPA Facebook page for further details)
Women’s only open mat practice 3pm to 5pm Body and Seoul in Itaewon
China GAA Games
SUN
JUNE
14
Five teams from Seoul Gaels (including a hurling team) plus some members from Loachra Busan 9am to 6pm with an after party Hong Kong at Kings Park, Kowloon
June 2015 www.groovekorea.com 59
20
06,07
Korea Ultimate Players Association present Busan Bids on the Beach
Brazilian Jiu Jitsu Open Mat
JUNE
JUNE
Seoul Chiefs 9.30pm to 11pm (Wed.) and 10.30am ‘til 12pm (Sun.) Mokdong Ice rink (Ice-time permitting) Check Seoul Chief’s Facebook Page for more details
Triathletes across Asia 6pm / Check the Ironman 70.3 Incheon website for details
SAT & SUN
SAT & SUN
Ice Hockey Practice Matches
Closing date for registration for the Ironman 70.3 Incheon event
SAT
MORE INFO Body & Seoul Martial Arts and Fitness Center Itaewon-dong 225-1 #201, Yongsan-gu, Seoul 02-749-2485 seoulmartialarts@gmail.com www.seoulmartialarts.com
Cycle along the Han and other beauty spots.
Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)
the minute you lose your focus, you get passed or submitted.” A fantastic way to relieve stress at the end of a long day, training sessions are like therapy and exercise rolled into one and it’s rare to see anyone leave the mats in a negative mood. Standard Brazilian Jiu-Jitsu uniform is the ‘gi’; a heavy cotton jacket and trouser outfit. There is also a ‘no-gi’ style of Jiu-Jitsu class which doesn’t require a uniform. At the start, however, most gyms will allow people to wear regular workout clothes. Classes often begin with basic warmups, followed by solo or partner drills. From there on, you’ll be partnered up and learn the techniques of the day. Every class ends with a sparring session to practice the techniques you’ve learned in a live, more realistic situation. Sparring is completed in a controlled and supervised environment, with a set of rules to ensure the safety of you and your training partners. Desmarais underlines the fact that each training session is not a competition. “Your improvement depends on the improvement of your training partners, and we share knowledge and help each other out wherever possible.” For those seeking a more advanced program, step into the action with the International Brazilian Jiu-Jitsu Federation which has both Gi and no-Gi events scheduled on July 18th in Bupyeong-gu, Incheon. This will be one of the biggest, if not the most exciting BJJ event in Korea to date. Entry fee is $90 US and the closing date for registration is July 10th. All of the divisions are determined by gender, age, weight and belt level and matches will be decided using different criteria including submission, stoppage and points scoring, with rounds ranging from two to ten minutes in length, based on an individual’s belt level. A martial art, which is more dynamic than running or weight training, BJJ has a fantastic mental workout and is just a phone call or email away. The sport brings different goals for different people – but staying with it can be one of the best decisions you’ve ever made. Asked for a final thought, Desmarais takes a moment to mull over her ideas before smiling “Well, most importantly, it’s fun too, and I think everyone could use a little more fun in their life.”
SPORTS
fighting disciplines in the Octagon, there were also those who took on the sport with more down-to-earth motives than beating Ken Shamrock. Gyms, including ones owned by the Gracie family, shot up worldwide as people far beyond the steel cage took an interest. Part of what attracts people’s interest in BJJ is its focus on leverage and weight distribution that allows a smaller person to defeat a bigger opponent. With moves such as the Guillotine (a form of choke-hold) and the Kimura (which attacks the shoulder joints), these positions allow a smaller person to force a larger attacker to quickly submit. The martial art has become a staple of self-defence classes worldwide, and has made people feel both safer and more confident. Desmarais insists that she’s “never known anyone who has stuck with BJJ and not become a better person.” Fitness and strength, confidence and mental fortitude, problem-solving skills and the ability to protect yourself are all within reach. The road to becoming a black belt is steep (typically ten years), but although the journey can initially be frustrating the beginner will typically find themselves pinned and submitted until they are tapped out. All of these benefits along the way make the journey absolutely worth it. “If you keep at it,” Desmarais promises, “everything eventually starts to gel, and your first submission is like a major victory.” If you add to that the camaraderie that comes from developing the trust and respect of the people you train with, and you’ve got a martial art that can quickly become one of the most important parts of your life. The confidence that it can instil also comes from the physical benefits of looking after yourself. Typical training sessions involve one of the best all-round workouts available, and as your knowledge and comfort with the martial art grows, so does your muscle mass. Mentally, every sparring session is like a game that you play with your mind and your body. Desmarais describes it as the best meditation she knows of. “It’s the only activity that allows me to be completely mindful, even more so than yoga, for me personally. You can’t think of anything else when you’re in the middle of a roll, because
SPORTS Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)
60 www.groovekorea.com June 2015
by Steven Price
Soccer Saturday (and Sunday) Story and photos
Ex-pat weekend teams open their doors to male and female amateur players
A
mateur devotees of the beautiful game, both Korean and expatriate, regularly flock to the soccer pitches of Seoul on weekends to test their skills in a friendly but still highly competitive atmosphere. Both the Seoul Saturday Soccer League and Seoul Sunday Football League have been offering competitive action over three divisions for those seeking to get out onto the pitch and with clubs looking for players in the upcoming close season, there will be plenty of opportunities for those looking to get involved. Although the standard in the top division is high, almost anyone can find a team that matches their ability and personality. Jarred Pellat, the captain of Seoul Saturday Soccer League Division Two team Deportivo Seoul joined “because I was seeking an environment in which I could play soccer while not having to worry about my technical ability. Deportivo made me feel comfortable.” Deportivo’s inclusive nature – no rollicking each other over mistakes and no trials to test ability – was also a large part of his decision to join the team. Deportivo’s goals at the start of this season were modest, with Jarred being quite candid here; “the original objective was to simply do our best and not finish last.” In fact, it now looks likely that Deportivo will finish in the top half of the table and qualify for the league cup. Although most of the players in the week-
end leagues are male, there are also plenty of opportunities for female players to get involved. Sunday League Division Two side Seoul Fury took inspiration from an all-women’s soccer team which used to play in the league. Captain Angel Yon explains that “we wanted to continue to provide opportunities for anyone – male or female. I think most teams are open to new players regardless of their gender.”
While the leagues provide a chance for Seoulites to play soccer and get some much needed exercise, they are also a great opportunity to meet like-minded people. When asked about the other benefits of joining a team, Angel replied that “The Sunday League is a fantastic way to meet a community of good people. I think each team aims to offer support to their players, and not just via information pertaining to soccer. It’s a great
way for expats and Koreans to get involved and meet new people.” One of the biggest difficulties for teams is finding pitches locally as the demand is so high. Many teams have had to show real dedication to fulfil their fixture lists with some matches being played in Seoul’s satellite cities. Maintaining a team that can provide eleven players every weekend is a huge problem with people’s busy lifestyles. Jarred highlights the need for a core group of players as the key to doing well. “The biggest difficulty is being consistent. Sometimes teams fail because they lose a lot of players.” Two teams left Deportivo’s league at the start of the season, and one of the remaining six teams has struggled to put together a full team and complete its fixtures, leading to a plea from the league’s organizers for new players to join them and help them provide eleven players for one of their matches. Even teams like Deportivo, who have a large squad, can face sudden shortages in key positions. One of Deportivo’s matches against rivals Dreamfriendz took place when both goalkeepers were out of town so outfield players had to take turns in goal. “We went 1-0 up shortly after kick-off and everything seemed fine. Suddenly they figured out our keeper situation and we were down 4-1 after only 30 minutes. Our guys showed some real character and we used the final 60 minutes to claw our way back to 4-4.” This is a problem echoed in the Sunday league. While Angel can’t speak for other
SAT
JUNE
20
Seoul Saturday Soccer League Cup Teams from the Saturday Soccer League All day / Hanam (East Seoul) at the Misa-ri Chukujang
Seoul Saturday Soccer League Cup
Teams from the Saturday Soccer League All day Hanam (East Seoul) at the Misa-ri Chukujang
SAT
JUNE
27
S P ORT S
g an “I was seeeknint in which environm ay soccer I could pl having while not about my to worryl ability.” techniecllaat l Jarred P Deportivo Seou captain of
Thanks to Angel Yon of Seoul Fury and Jarred Pellat of Deportivo Seoul for taking the time to be interviewed for this article.
Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)
teams, she feels that finding players that can commit to an entire season is a team’s biggest challenge. “It’s especially difficult when players have families, jobs, business trips or other commitments. Many players are expats who want to travel and have limited vacation time. It’s definitely worth it though, and props to all the players who make the commitment.” Players who can manage that commitment will certainly enjoy the experience. Like many soccer teams going on tour, teams from the Saturday and Sunday leagues are invited to enter the Ulsan Cup, a competition held in the city every May, and includes teams from all over Korea. This year Seoul Fury is entering the competition along with fifteen other teams and Angel is very excited about their debut. “Basically it’s a long weekend with a lot of soccer… I’m excited to check out the teams from other areas.” Leagues run twice a year, in the spring and in the fall with teams playing between ten and fourteen league matches a season. Most teams are looking for players in the pre-season period (July/August and January/February). For more information, visit the league website at: http://seoulsaturdaysoccerleague.com/ sssl/scripts/ShowPage.php http://www.ssflkorea.org/ https://www.facebook.com/groups/footballinkorea/
ts a p x e for volved y a w at o get in e r g “It’s aKoreans t people.u”l Fury and meet newptain of Seo andgel Yon - ca An
Seoul Sisters –
Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)
SPORTS
Story by Liam Ring / Photos by Amber Sorensen
Sisters Keeping It Real Through the Rugby Wilderness
62 www.groovekorea.com June 2015
W
omen’s rugby on the peninsula marked an auspicious day on its calendar last May 1st as the Seoul Sisters’ side celebrated ten years since its first ever practice. From twenty-one players and three coaches at that initial practice, the club has worked tirelessly to push forward women’s rugby in Korea, playing regular touch rugby tournaments and taking on teams from across the continent in contact rugby 7s, 10s and 15s events. Most recently, the club hosted and was victorious in hard-fought contact rugby matches against the Hong Kong Cricket Club and Hong Kong University, and has tenuous plans for a Beijing trip over the coming months. The club play regularly against Ellis, a Korean girls contact rugby club, and hosts regular inter-squad matches to keep players sharp. It’s also heavily involved in touch rugby in Seoul, where it is regularly the only all-female squad in mixed gender tournaments. Natalie Hallemans, one of the club’s founders is a big believer in the fitness benefits of touch rugby, which has a huge emphasis on fast possession play and developing ball skills. It is here where many budding Sisters start out before moving onto the contact game.
Despite plans for the season, challenges are a constant part of the club’s existence, and perhaps the biggest is the sport having such a small presence on the peninsula. While improvements have been made (Korea didn’t even have a women’s national team ten years ago), there is huge room for expansion that can’t be implemented as the general apathy from the Korean Rugby Union Association continues. The women’s national team plays practice matches against male middle and high school sides, with Hallemans recalling that the national side used to play against the Sisters in the past. “If we beat them (the Korea women’s national team), we’d never hear from them again. If they beat us, they’d be back to arrange another match as soon as possible. Odd but whatever.” Perhaps not so strange where old thinking baulks at a national side being taught a lesson by an ex-pat club. Attempts to start a university league have generally been met with a shrug of the shoulders from a union that fails to see how a league would generate interest. Hallemans compares the present situation to that of her time studying in South Africa when she overcame initial indifference to start a rugby team at her university that’s still going strong today. South Africa, however, a rugby stronghold, is far different to the fallow ground
The club is regularly the only all-female squad playing in mixed gender touch rugby tournaments
– A Decade On of Korean women’s rugby. Improvements in a sport can never be made without regular competition, and the Korean Rugby Union’s intransigence on developing the sport beyond the men’s game makes true progress a long way off. Building a successful league structure in a country where organized sport for women post-university seems an after-thought will be slow-going. Interest among Koreans, low at present, is building, and with a higher profile the Sisters are poised to benefit from any upturn.
June 2015 www.groovekorea.com 63
With thanks to Natalie Hallemans for all her help with the article Contact the Seoul Sisters via their Facebook page. How to get involved? Show up!
Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)
Practices and touch matches regularly take place on Saturdays at the Jamwon pitch in Apgujeong with any change in venue announced on the club’s Facebook page. Seoul Sisters also have a fantastic social scene, with able support offered by Sin Bin Sports Pub in Itaewon. The venue for many a Sisters’ event, the bar often proves a focal point for the club’s socials, giving players the opportunity to be part of the camaraderie beyond the pitch. Hallemans emphasises that often the hardest thing for prospective members is showing up for that first training session. “Once people get the courage to give it a try, they continue to play at least the touch version of the sport.” With turnover one of every ex-pat club’s challenges, new players are needed and welcome to get in touch via the Seoul Sisters Facebook page. To echo former player Mary McNeill, “I can’t imagine what teaching would have been like without the Seoul Sisters.” With ten years of great memories and no sign of slowing down, Hallemans is hoping to share many more years with a new generation of players.
SPORTS
There is huge room for expansion that can’t be implemented as the general apathy from the Korean Rugby Union Association continues.
Story and Photos by Luke Butcher
SAFE Campaign has no effect on the Joys of the KBO Have the KBO stymied the average fan with new safety procedures?
64 www.groovekorea.com June 2015
Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)
SPORTS
W
atching baseball in Korea is guaranteed to have something for everyone from the seasoned fanatic to the casual first-timer. However, the start of this season saw fans and media alike incensed when the Korean Baseball Organisation (KBO) announced the SAFE campaign, which amongst stricter new rules banned alcohol being brought into the stadium. Some expected attendance figures to plummet and that going to the stadium would lose its novelty. Thankfully, the evidence so far suggests the campaign has done nothing detrimental to the atmosphere at matches. The SAFE campaign started from the opening game in March, and in theory made some pretty major alterations. Bags and boxes being brought in were now limited in size, any plastic bottles over a litre and smelly foods such as soup were banned and, in arguably the biggest move, fans were prohibited from bringing in their own alcohol. The KBO seemed set on putting an end to spectators lugging in huge pizza boxes, family ramen and liters of giant beer bottles.
The KBO seemed set on putting an end to spectators carrying huge pizza boxes, family ramen and liters of giant beer bottles. Opinion was immediately divided. Some thought it tampered with the baseball experience in Korea; others like myself argued it would end horrible games where you sat next to the group with a 15-inch pizza box stabbing
into your leg or the family sitting behind you spilling boiling hot soup on your back during a home run. Besides which, buying beer inside most stadiums in Korea is often below 4,000 won for a good-sized, cold beer. However, after all the debates, the SAFE campaign has had virtually no effect. The game I attended between Jamsil rivals Doosan Bears and LG Twins in early May seemed to prove it. Firstly, the rules are being generally ignored by fans and staff alike, and secondly, even where they were enforced, the experience inside was hardly being affected. En route to getting tickets at the collection point outside Jamsil stadium, the big SAFE signs posted everywhere can’t be missed. There are no problems with understanding the signage as the big crosses through pictures of plastic bottles and large cans make it pretty obvious what the dont’s are. Immediately this seems like a Korean safety campaign that is actually taken seriously. The first signs that the rules were ignored came from sellers outside the stadium. Alongside the traditional snacks, kimbap, and the enticing smell of fried chicken, remained huge buckets of ice water containing cans of beer. Why were they still selling this outside if people can’t take it in? The answer would soon become clear. Like many others, I was coming to the game straight from work and was carrying a small shoulder bag with me (adhering to the campaign’s bag size limit) as well as a box of chicken and some of the inflatable cheering tubes that are essentials to making yourself a real Korean baseball fan. As I presented my ticket and walked through the gates, no one even contemplated checking my bag. Or the next person. Or the person after. It would hardly have taken James Bond to have ‘snuck’ in some beer in. Indeed when I got in, there were plenty of people with 2-litre beer bottles at their seats. The whole point of the campaign is to get the sellers inside to put the beer into plastic cups, but these fans had all blatantly brought their own beer in, taken some of the cups (available at the stadium) and were sharing it out. I also saw soups and ramen, although admittedly not as much as I had before, but nobody was doing anything to stop them. The SAFE campaign has become one of those Korean rules we know so well; almost entirely ignored by both those subject to it and those enforcing it. Regardless of whether the rules were actu-
ally followed though, it would still probably take nothing away from the enjoyment for fans. The singing and dancing remains stronger than ever, and you can buy anything you want with your team’s logo printed on it (literally anything). Plus the breaks between innings still provides entertainment bordering on the ridiculous. At this game, women were encouraged to find the largest man they could and bring him to the stage, with the heaviest man winning a whole pack of six 2-litre beer bottles for both himself and the accompanying lady. The winner came out at an impressive yet disturbing 120kg. Those that claimed going to baseball stadiums would become a whole different experience this year have been proved wrong. Even if these rules were enforced, it would be easy to find decent, inexpensive draft beer, and plenty of cheap food to nibble on while you root for your favorites through nine innings. The quality of the baseball on the field remains not as good as many are used to watching even at the lower levels across the Pacific, but the enjoyment inherent in going to KBO remains. If you have never been to a game here, it has to be one of the things to do, even if you have no idea of the rules or the teams. I, myself, come from a country that pays virtually no attention to baseball and have taken many people to games that have never heard of a bunt of a fly-out. It is an insight into the country and its people you can get in just a few hours for a relatively small cost that makes it so interesting. The SAFE campaign has not changed Korea’s baseball culture, and thankfully will not in its current, moderate form. Check out the official Korea Baseball Organisation English website at http://eng.koreabaseball.com You can read more of Luke Butcher’s pieces at www.waegukinsport.com
Story by Liam Ring / Photos courtesy of Canada Soccer
The Beautiful Game
The women’s World Cup promises to be just as competitive as the men’s version
Bolstered by the goal-scoring exploits of striker Christine Sinclair, the eighthranked Canadians are confident of making a major showing as the host nation
Canada Soccer Website www.canadasoccer.com Rocky Mountain Tavern email info@rockymountaintavern.com Also check out their Facebook page www.facebook.com/rockymountaintavern for details.
June 2015 www.groovekorea.com 65
build on recent positive performances against Russia and the blooding of several players from the side that won a credible bronze in last year’s Asian Games. A front-line of Russian-based Park, Eun-sun and Chelsea’s Ji, So-yun will look to score the goals that will at least get them through a group containing 6-time Copa America winners Brazil, dark-horses Spain and Costa Rica. Many watchers are quietly confident of a successful tournament for the Koreans, and believe that a quarter-final spot is realistic. Any repeat of March’s Cyprus Cup, where South Korea suffered consecutive defeats to Italy, Cana-
da and Scotland (albeit narrow losses) before eventually finishing 11th out of the 12 competing sides will be seen as a failure. Hosts Canada kick off the tournament against China in Edmonton on June 6th (7am the following morning in Korea). Beaten 2011 finalists and women’s soccer power the United States start their competition against Asian Cup runners-up Australia, while Korea’s opening fixture against Brazil takes place at 8am Korea-time on the morning of June 10th. Matches will be played at six venues stretched across the country, with the Vancouver to Seoul time difference a heady 16 hours while the furthest East coast hosts Moncton stands at four hours closer. This will mean a mix of late night vigils and breakfast beers for the committed fan as they face a schedule of fifty-two matches over the month. With an expected 800,000 spectators attending matches and blanket coverage on Fox Sports, a successful tournament is set to further enhance the women’s game. The Rocky Mountain Tavern in Itaewon plan to show a mix of live fixtures and games on delay for fans with matches involving Canada, the United States, Australia, England and South Korea taking pride of schedule. Check out the bar’s Facebook page for updates on scheduled fixtures and special food and drink deals.
Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)
foresee this decision as likely to have a more adverse effect on the traditional powerhouses; at least in the early fixtures. South Korea’s place on the women’s map has developed slowly, with the side only playing its first matches in the early 1990s, but a bid to host the 2019 World Cup (which eventually went to France) and a growing domestic set up shows effort to redress past neglect. The peninsula’s women’s team takes to the biggest stage for only the second time, and will be aiming to better the 2003 event when results included heavy defeats to Brazil and Norway. Yoon, Dukyeo’s charges will look to
SPORTS
M
any Canadian fans will disagree with any notions of the Great White not being a ‘soccer country’, pointing to a level of spectator interest that regularly sees the Montreal Impact and Vancouver White Caps draw huge crowds to their Major League Soccer fixtures. These days though, the talk will be more of international fixtures; specifically the twenty-four nation Women’s World Cup that kicks off this June 6th in Vancouver. Following on from the German event in 2011, an understanding is emerging among the upper echelons in both football and the media of the strength and interest in the women’s involvement in the beautiful game. So just because there isn’t a men’s tournament in Brazil this summer doesn’t mean you can’t be up half the night watching top soccer action. Bolstered by the goal-scoring exploits of striker Christine Sinclair, the eighth-ranked Canadians are confident of making a major showing as the host nation take on China, New Zealand and the Netherlands in their group. Recent successes such as a bronze at the London Olympics in 2012 leaves many confident of the side’s ability to mix it with the best, and a repeat of at least their fourth place finish at the 2003 tournament looks tangible. Traditionally, Germany, the United States, France and Japan are the main sides to look at, but with so many professional leagues catering to the women’s game, don’t be surprised at a few shock results. Another factor will be that it’s the first time a FIFA sanctioned major tournament has been played on artificial turf, which is likely to affect those unfamiliar with the surface. Many pundits
One For The
66 www.groovekorea.com June 2015
Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)
SPORTS
All-rounder
Incheon follows Gurye triathlon in offering the half-distance Ironman event to budding competitors
K
orean Tri-athletes of all levels of experience will be heading to Incheon this July 5th to test their limits in singles and team competition as part of the latest Ironman 70.3 event. The Korean event is one of over sixty competitions spanning the globe and it will showcase a field of nationalities and age groups challenging their endurance in the sweltering Korean heat over the third longest of the four Ironman distances. Tracing its initial origins back to the 1920s, the three-pronged swimming / cycling / running event began to gain traction through endurance athlete’s interest in the late 1960s. Last year saw the first ever Ironman 70.3 event in idyllic Gurye, Jeollanam-do, as athletes across the country got a chance to test themselves at the Ironman half-distance. Although a qualified success, many pointed to Gurye’s distance from transport hubs as a major reason for the relative lack of participants. Suitably inspired, organizers have chosen the new event’s location partly for its proximity to Incheon airport and the capital, with expectations high that more people from across Asia will take part. Based in Songdo, which was previously the site of the
Story by Liam Ring / Photos courtesy of Johan Stofberg
Asian Games triathlon event, participants from age categories ranging 18 to 80 will face a 1.9 kilometer swim before taking to the bike for a 90 kilometer triple circuit of coastal roads. Competitors will then run just over 21 km through the bike lanes and walking paths of Songdo Central Park. Johan Stofberg of the Seoul Synergy Club will be one Korea-based athlete taking part this year, with plans to improve on last year’s personal Gurye-performance and possibly compete in next year’s World Championships in Australia. From not even owning a bike when he signed up with his wife for their first triathlon-style event last year, Stofberg has become hooked by a sport that attracts all ages, and has seen improvements in his races that leaves him very confident of surpassing the goals he’s set himself for coming events. “At the most recent race in Daegu, I went almost 30 minutes faster than eight months ago on my first triathlon and also claimed second place in my age group.” Such results show what massive improvements can be achieved with the proper training and experience that comes from working with a club that’s become one of the main-stays in the local athletics scene over the past ten years.
Participants from age categories of 18 to 80 will face a 1.9 kilometer swim before taking to the bike for a 90 kilometer triple circuit of coastal roads.
While triathletes from across the continent are expected, the field will suffer from a lack of female participants, with hopes that things in that regard will improve through the increase in events.
Views from an Ironman Johan Stofberg from Seoul Synergy speaks to GK about his own personal triathlon regime The background During high schooI, I completed a biathlon, played casual water polo, and some track running. That was as far as my experience went with any of the three disciplines. After signing up for the Gurye race, I started following a free training program online. That race led to training myself through the winter season and preparing for 10 triathlon races, including the two Half Ironmans in Korea, for 2015.
Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)
Up-coming targets For the Incheon race, I have only set a specific time in which I want to finish the race in. I have full confidence that everything will go as I have planned since I’ve sacrificed many hours for training. It’s predominantly about challenging myself and growing through learning from these races. Anything more than achieving my time goal will be a bonus at this stage. With every race I do, I’ll set myself a new and more challenging goal.
MORE INFO: Seoul Synergy club www.seoulsynergy.com www.facebook.com/groups/seoulsynergy/
June 2015 www.groovekorea.com 67
While triathletes from across the continent are expected, the field will suffer from a lack of female participants, with hopes that things in that regard will improve through an increase in events. A number of reasons are posited for this; from cultural factors, to a lack of knowledge as to the health benefits of the events, to the expense. Stofberg is convinced that younger generations are getting into the sport more, and that this dearth of female interest will change given time. This focus on youth can be found in the ‘Ironman Kids’ events, which sees three age groups racing, with one category allowing seven to 10-year-olds to race along with an adult. Running the day before the Ironman event, efforts have been made to recruit from several junior sports clubs in the region and as many as one thousand are pencilled in to take part in the underage events. There will also be a range of spectator-centered events, including an open water swim race to offer an element of competition while still keeping things fun. With internationally-renowned organization and triathlon veteran Park, Byung-hoon at the helm, there is plenty of confidence that teething problems will be at a minimum. For those with ambitions beyond personal goals, there is a $25,000 prize fund spread across age groups. In addition, there are thirty qualifying places for the Ironman 70.3 World Championships in Zell am See-Kaprun in Austria. Registration closes on June 12th at 6pm and can be completed at www.Ironman.com
Strengths and challenges I would say that at the moment, swimming is my strongest leg. This, I only realized, from being one of the fastest swimmers in my first triathlon. My running has improved a lot, and is beginning to build to become my strongest leg. Since cycling is a brand new sport for me, I have put a lot of time into that and it has improved immensely with my power interval sessions. Understanding that a triathlon is one sport which is a swim-bike-run helped me a lot mentally as to not focus only on improving my bike times. Only the top athletes can produce a good overall swim-bike-run result.
SPORTS
The training Since I am quite new to the sport, training can only go upwards. Although I will still do a couple of Olympic distance triathlons (roughly half the distance of a 70.3 event), Incheon 70.3 will be one of my two main races this year. For now I use the Olympic distance triathlons for preparation to track my fitness progress, and do not focus on specific training for the shorter distance. My training involves a lot of long distance sessions to build my endurance base. I need a lot of these, because of being new to this game. These longer distance sessions are key for a half Ironman, or longer races. I also do power and speed sessions, since those are the ones that really increase your limits of speed and strength. Much credit goes to running programs and advice I got from Kinetic Revolution (www.kinetic-revolution.com) and the half Ironman training program from ironguides.net websites.
m lcycle.co y at s e o u Trembla s by Luc d Photo Story an 68 www.groovekorea.com June 2015
Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)
SPORTS
Crossing Paths on the 4River Bike Challenge
I
t’s time to get acquainted with Korea’s “red Tardis.” This isn’t a regular Doctor Who sci-fi adventure but one made in real life by you and your bicycle. Get ready for arguably Korea’s greatest cycling challenge. The 4rivers system, which opened in 2011, began as a restoration project of the Han, Nakdong, Yeongsan, and Geum rivers to revitalize and make them safer from flooding. Today, it has grown to over 2,000 kilometers of cycling paths stretching all over South Korea. There is even a Jeju Fantasy and newly opened East coastal path. These paths have unmanned red booths, which look like the telephone ones, accessible 24/7. There are small brown signs that start appearing around three kilometers away and more signs will count down from 1000, 500, 100 and 50 meters till the red booth is clearly visible. Once there, you can stamp your 4rivers booklet with its corresponding location. Be sure to stamp the right spot (check twice, stamp once and bring your own ink pad).
Cy c l i n g t h e H a n a n d b e y o n d .
These booklets are a great keepsake and proof of the completion of your chosen path. At the end of each route, you can stop at a manned office where they’ll register your booklet and you can give them your mailing address too. Getting it recorded will help in case you lose your booklet. Once you’ve gotten the stamps of your desired course, submit your stamped booklet at a manned certification booth and/or mail it in to get a gold medal, stickers and/ or certificate depending on which category completed. There are four main course categories, including cross country from Ara sea lock to Nakdonggang estuary bank and the 4rivers path itself. The booklets can be purchased from various bike shops and cycling groups. The main website hasn’t been updated in a while and locations to buy these booklets are inaccurate. However a sure bet is to get them yourself at the beginning of the Ara path from the good people at K-water. They cost 4,000 won or 4,500 won with a map. While you are there, make sure to take the elevator to the top of the
Make sure to take the elevator to the top of the K-water building to catch the amazing sunsets overlooking the locks and mud-flats.
Hair & Joy Served as Art Director at London’s Renowned RUSH SALON and nominated by the Guardian for “Best Hairdresser”
Hair&Joy
Mapo-gu Dong gyo-dong 168-3_ 3F Seven Uniqlo Springs
HonhIk Univ. Stn. Line2 Exit8
www.hairandjoy.com
Qunohair
Phone 02.549.0335 www.qunohair.com 10-6, Dosan-daero 45-gil, Gangnam-gu, Seoul
range Cab
Travel In Comfort!
Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)
Gangnam Apgujeong Branch
SPORTS
K-water building to catch the amazing sunsets overlooking the locks and mud-flats. Stamping your booklets can be done as slow or as fast as you want. There is no time limit on completion. You can even do it over several weekends by taking the train or bus to a specific location and start from there. The next weekend go back to that location and start cycling from where you left off. If you are more of a road warrior, you can take time during your vacation and cycle over several days. There are lots of spots to buy food and snacks, water and find cheap shelter such as motels, hotels and there’s even some campsites to pop up your tent in. Keep in mind to be well prepared if you do longer trips so as not to get stranded in the middle of nowhere without food or water. Where to start? Anywhere! Everything from quiet mountains to serene ocean views and exciting festivals can be seen on this journey. The list is just too long. Start exploring because inspiration, happiness, challenges, beauty and discovery await. Get cycling, capture the moment and don’t forget your 4rivers stamp booklet as a reminder.
Trained at Toni & Guy and Vidal Sassoon Academy in UK Color, Perm, Magic Straight, Treatment and more English Spoken For more info, call Johnny Phone 02.363.4253 Mobile 010.5586.0243
Best taxi service to Incheon and Gimpo airports We charge by meter (toll fees subject to surcharge)
TAXI orangecabwork@gmail.com
010-5960-0679
June 2015 www.groovekorea.com 69
MORE INFO For more information, maps and guides, visit 4rivers guide website and the Seoul Cycle website or Facebook page. They are a group of mostly expats helping with ride meet-ups, finding the best places to check out and anything else that is related to cycling and exploring. www.seoulcycle.com 4rivers guide www.riverguide.go.kr/eng/
LISTINGS
Edited by Sean Choi (sean@groovekorea.com)
EMBASSIES American Embassy (02) 397-4114 • 188 Sejong-daero, Jongno-gu, Seoul Canadian Embassy (02) 3783-6000 • (613) 996-8885 (Emergency Operations Center) Jeongdonggil (Jeong-dong) 21, Jung-gu, Seoul British Embassy (02) 3210-5500 • Sejong-daero 19-gil 24, Jung-gu, Seoul Australian Embassy (02) 2003-0100 • 19th fl, Kyobo bldg., 1 Jongno 1-ga, Jongno-gu, Seoul Philippine Embassy (02) 796-7387~9 • 5-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul
Novotel Ambassador Gangnam (02) 567-1101 • 603 Yeoksam 1-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul
Seoul Samsung Hospital 1599-3114 • 50 Irwon-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul
Grand Hilton Seoul (02) 3216-5656 • 353 Yeonhui-ro, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul
Asan Medical Center 1688-7575 • 88 Olympic-ro 43-gil, Songpa-gu, Seoul
Somerset Palace Seoul (02) 6730-8888 • 85 Susong-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul
Keimyung University Dongsan Medical Center (053) 250-7167 (7177 / 7187) • 56 Dalseong-ro, Jung-gu, Daegu
Park Hyatt Seoul (02) 2016-1234 • 606 Teheran-ro, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Lotte Hotel Busan (051) 810-1000 • 772 Gaya-daero, Busanjin-gu, Busan Park Hyatt Busan (051) 990-1234 • 51, Marine City 1-ro, Haeundae-gu, Busan 612-824, Korea
Airlines Korean Air 1588-2001 Asiana Airlines 1588-8000 Lufthansa (02) 2019-0180 Garuda Indonesia (02) 773-2092 • garuda-indonesia.co.kr
Spanish Embassy (02) 794-3581 • 726-52 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul
EMERGENCY MEDICAL CENTERS Jeju Air 1599-1500
French Embassy (02) 3149-4300 • 30 Hap-dong, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul
Gangnam St-Mary’s Hospital 1588-1511 • 222 Banpo-daero, Seocho-gu, Seoul
T’way Air 1688-8686
Yonsei Severance Hospital (Sinchon) (02) 2227-7777 • 50 Yonsei-ro, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul
British Airways (02) 774-5511
Seoul National University Hospital 1339 • 28-2 Yeongeon-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul
Delta Airlines (02) 754-1921
HOTELS & RESORTS Banyan Tree Club & Spa Seoul (02) 2250-8080 • San 5-5, Jangchung-dong 2-ga Jung-gu, Seoul
Jin Air 1600-6200
Cathay Pacific Airways (02) 311-2700
Emirates Airlines (02) 2022-8400
FAMILY & KIDS INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS Yongsan Intl. School (02) 797-5104 • San 10-213 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Seoul Intl. School (031) 750-1200 • 388-14 Bokjeong-dong, Sujeong-gu, Seongnam, Gyeonggi-do Branksome Hall Asia (02) 6456-8405 • Daejung-eup, Seogipo-si, Jeju Island Daegu Intl. School (053) 980-2100 • 1555 Bongmu-dong, Dong-gu, Daegu
Dulwich College Seoul (02) 3015-8500 • 6 Sinbanpo-ro 15-gil, Seocho-gu, Seoul admissions@dulwich-seoul.kr www.dulwich-seoul.kr The curriculum from Toddler to IGCSE (ages 2 years to 16 years) follows the best practice of the Early Years Foundation Stage Framework and English National Curriculum enhanced for an international setting.
D ETUR
PO NS MU
NDO
Eton House Prep (02) 749-8011 • 68-3 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul A unique British-style Prep School for children of all nationalities from 2-13 years of age. A broad, challenging and innovative curriculum preparing pupils for senior school and life beyond. / www.etonhouseprep.com AMUSEMENT PARKS Everland Resort (031) 320-5000 • 310 Jeondae-ri, Pogok-eup, Cheoin-gu, Yongin-si, Gyeonggi-do Lotte World (02) 411-2000 0 • 240 Olympic-ro, Songpa-gu, Seoul Pororo Park (D-Cube city) 1661-6340 • 360-51 Sindorim-dong, Guro-gu, Seoul Children’s Grand Park (zoo) (02) 450-9311 • 216 Neungdong-ro, Gwangjin-gu, Seoul Seoul Zoo (02) 500-7338 • 159-1 Makgye-dong, Gwacheon-si, Gyeonggi-do BOOKSTORES What the Book? (02) 797-2342 • 176-2, Itaewon 1-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul • whatthebook.com Located in Itaewon, this English bookstore has new books, used books and children’s books. Kim & Johnson 1566-0549 • B2 fl-1317-20 Seocho-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul
HEALTH ORIENTAL MEDICINE Lee Moon Won Korean Medicine Clinic (02) 511-1079 • 3rd fl., Lee&You bldg. 69-5 Chungdam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Specializes in hair loss and scalp problems and offers comprehensive treatments and services including aesthetic and hair care products. Soseng Clinic (02) 2253-8051 • 368-90 Sindang 3-dong, Jung-gu, Seoul Yaksan Obesity Clinic (02) 582-4246 • 1364-7, Seocho 2-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul • www.dryaksan.com FITNESS Exxl Fitness Gangnam Finance Center, 737 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul • www.exxl.co.kr Daily Morning Ashtanga Yoga Mysore Classes (English) Jivamukti, Forrest, Universal Yoga (Korean) Apgujeong Rodeo Stn, Exit 4 (02) 515-6011• www.taoyoga.kr UROLOGY & OB Tower Urology (02) 2277-6699 • 5th fl. 119 Jongno 3-ga, Jongno-gu, Seoul
Animal hospitals Chunghwa Animal Hospital / Korea Animal Transport (02) 792-7602 • 21-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul / www.cwhospital.com Woori Pet Hospital (02) 393-6675 • 299-1 Youngcheon-dong, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul
MUSEUM & GALLERIES National Museum of Korea (02) 2077-9000 • 168-6 Yongsandong 6-ga, Yongsan-gu, Seoul The NMK offers educational programs on Korean history and culture in English and Korean. National Palace Museum of Korea (02) 3701-7500 • 12 Hyoja-ro, Jongno-gu, Seoul This museum has a program called Experiencing Royal Culture designed for English teachers to help learn about Joseon royal culture. Seodaemun Museum of Natural History (02) 330-8899 • 141-52 Yeonhui-dong, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul Don’t know where to take your kids on weekends? This museum exhibits a snapshot of the world and animals. National Museum of Contemporary Art, Korea (02) 2188-6000 • 313 Gwangmyeong-ro, Gwacheon-si, Gyeonggi-do Leeum Samsung Museum of Art (02) 2014-6901• 747-18 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul 10:30 a.m.-6 p.m. Closed on Mondays, New Year’s Day, Lunar New Year and Chuseok holidays. Kumho Museum (02) 720-5114 • 78 Sagan-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul 10 a.m.-6 p.m. Closed on Mondays. Gallery Hyundai (02) 734-6111~3 • 22 Sagan-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul The first specialized art gallery in Korea and accommodates contemporary art. 10 a.m.-6 p.m. Closed on Mondays, New Year’s Day, Lunar New Year and Chuseok holidays. Plateau (02) 1577-7595 • 50 Taepyung-ro 2-ga, Jung-gu, Seoul 10 a.m.-6 p. m. Closed on Mondays. National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art, Seoul (MMCA SEOUL) (02) 3701-9500 • 30 Samcheong-ro, Sogyeok-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul Daegu Art Museum (053) 790-3000 • 374 Samdeok-dong, Suseong-gu, Daegu Art space for local culture presenting Daegu’s contemporary fine arts and internationally renowned artists.
Maps JUNE 2015
Itaewon (including Haebangchon and Gyeongnidan) Garosugil l Gangnam Station l Samcheong-dong Seochon l Hongdae l Myeong-dong l Yeonnam-dong
The establishments on our maps are carefully selected and based solely on recommendations from our editors, foodies and readers. Groove strictly separates these pages from commercial advertisements. These maps are only intended to serve the interests and cravings of our readers
Pick up GROOVE at your local
Lee Moon Won Korean Medicine Clinic 3rd Fl., Lee & You Bldg., 69-5 Cheongdam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul / (02) 511-1079 Treatment for hair loss and scalp problems. One-stop services including aesthetic and hair care products.
Starbucks
Over 570 locations throughout Korea
National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art, Grand Hilton Seoul Seoul branch H Samcheongdong / Gyeongbokgung Bukchon Gwanghwamun (Palace) Square Daehakro (Hyehwa-dong) Somerset Palace Seoul Insadong Sinchon (Yonsei Univ. & H Myeong Ewha Womans Univ.) H dong Dongdaemun Deoksugung Lotte Hotel Seoul Market Dr.Kim’s Skin Laser Sheraton Grande Hongdae (Hongik Univ.) (Palace) & Esthetic Clinic H Walkerhill H Banyan Tree Seoul (은피부과) Esarang N Seoul Tower H Grand Hyatt Seoul Today Dental Clinic Itaewon Dental Lee Moon Won Korean Medicine Conrad Seoul H Olympic Park Oracle Clinic Clinic 63 City Building Garosugil National Museum H Lotte World COEX H H of Korea Sheraton Seoul D Cube Park Hyatt Seoul Novotel Ambassador H City Hotel JW Marriott Seoul Gangnam Gangnam Seoul Bright Eye Clinic Gangnam Station Seoul Arts Center
Gyeongbokgung (Palace) Gyeongbokgung was the first royal palace built by the Joseon Dynasty in 1395, three years after the dynasty was founded. Gyeongbokgung served as the main palace of the Joseon Dynasty and represented its sovereignty. It is the largest of the Five Grand Palaces, the others being Gyeonghuigung, Deoksugung, Changgyeonggung and Changdeokgung. Deoksugung (Palace) The changing of the Royal Guard and the patrol ritual take place here. The palace is unique for its modern seal engraving and a Western-style garden and fountain. N Seoul Tower Formerly known as Namsan Tower. Its main attractions include multicolored digital art projected onto the tower at night, a digital observatory and a roof terrace. Cheonggyecheon (stream) An 11-kilometer-long modern stream that runs through downtown Seoul, created as part of an urban renewal project. Cheonggyecheon is a restoration of the stream that existed during the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910). Myeongdong Cathedral Myeongdong Cathedral is the very first Roman Catholic parish church in Korea. It is also the first Gothic building ever built in Korea and was designated as Historic site No. 285 in Korea.
지도상의 업장들은 Groove Korea의 기자, 음식 전문가, 독자들의 객관적인 의견을 반영하여 세심하게 선별된 곳들입니다. 대부분의 업장들은 Groove Korea가 직접 방문한 후 꼼꼼한 평가를 통해 독자들에게 자신있게 추천하는 소위 ‘HOT’ 한 곳들이며, 해당 지역을 연인, 가족 혹은 친구들과 방문할 때 기분좋은 경험을 하실 수 있도록 제작되었습니다. 지도상의 업장들은 매달 업데이트가 되며, 광고와는 무관합니다.
TODAY DENTAL 3 Fl., 630-19 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul 1899-2854 Dental clinic specialized in cosmetic and general dentistry including dental implant and laminate. Oracle Clinic (Chungdam branch) 333 Bongeunsa-ro, Gangnam-gu, Seoul 1800-7588 Dermatologic and plastic surgery clinic with the largest number of branches in Korea 70+ overseas and domestic. Esarang Dental Clinic 26-16 Singongdeok-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul (02) 701-2199 Its internationally trained staff welcomes patients with heartfelt smiles. Dr.Kim’s Skin Laser & Esthetic Clinic (은피부과) 3 Fl., 85-2 Cheongdam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul (02) 546-3322 Offering a comprehensive dermatological services for all ages and skins Gangnam Seoul Bright Eye Clinic 18 & 19 Fl., Mijin Plaza, 390 Gangnam-daero, Gangnam-gu, Seoul / 1588-3882 Experienced staffs with 10.000+ operations of LASIK & LASEK.
Grand Hyatt Seoul National Museum of Korea The six-story building of the National Museum of Korea 322 Sowol-ro, Yongsan-gu, Seoul / (02) 797-1234 is ranked as the sixth-largest museum in the world. Grand Hilton Seoul 353 Yeonhee-ro, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul 63 City Building (02) 3216-5656 The 63 City skyscraper is a Yeouido landmark commanding spectacular views of the city. Standing Conrad Seoul 249 meters high and comprising 60 floors and three 23-1 Yeouido-dong, Youngdeungpo-gu, Seoul basement levels, 63 City is one of Korea’s tallest and (02) 6137-7000 most recognized buildings. Dongdaemun Market It is Korea’s largest wholesale and retail shopping district featuring 26 shopping malls, 30,000 speciality shops and 50,000 manufacturers. All kinds of goods can be found here including silk and fabric, clothes, shoes and accessories, electronics, leather goods, sporting goods, office supplies, pet products and toys.
Park Hyatt Seoul 606 Teheran-ro, Gangnam-gu, Seoul (02) 2016-1234
Gwanghwamun Square Gwanghwamun Square is divided into six sections. At its center stands a statue of King Sejong the Great, the fourth and most respected king of the Joseon Dynasty and creator of Hangeul, the Korean alphabet; and a statue of Admiral Yi Sunshin, a naval commander noted for his victories against the Japanese navy during the Japanese invasions of Korea (1592-1598) and a national hero.
JW Marriott Seoul 176 Shinbanpo-ro, Seocho-gu, Seoul (02) 6282-6262
Lotte World Opened in 1989, Lotte World is a major recreation complex in downtown Seoul. It consists of Indoor Adventure (the world’s largest indoor theme park), an National Museum of Modern and outdoor theme park called Magic Island, a luxury hotel, Contemporary Art, Seoul branch Opened in 2013, the MMCA consists of a small number the Korean Folk Museum, shopping malls, department of separate national art museums focusing on different stores, sports facilities and a movie theater, all in one place. aspects of post-19th-century art. The Seoul museum spotlights “cutting-edge and international art.”
Sheraton Grande Walkerhill 177 Walkerhill-ro, Gwangjin-gu, Seoul (02) 2022-0000
Lotte Hotel Seoul 30 Eulji-ro, Jung-gu, Seoul / (02) 771-1000 Somerset Palace Seoul 7 Yulgokro 2-gil, Jongro-gu, Seoul (02) 6730-8888 Novotel Ambassador Gangnam 130 Bongeunsa-ro, Gangnam-gu, Seoul (02) 567-1101 Banyan Tree Club & Spa Seoul San 5-5, Jangchung-dong 2-ga Jung-gu, Seoul (02) 2250-8080
The establishments on our maps are carefully selected and based solely on recommendations from our editors, foodies and readers. Groove strictly separates these pages from commercial advertisements. These maps are only intended to serve the interests and cravings of our readers
A
B
L1 Magpie Brewing Microbrewery A3 (02) 742-2849 • 691 Itaewon 2-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul
C
L2 Noxa Lounge LOUNGE A4 (02) 790-0776 • 671 Itaewon 2-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul This cozy neighborhood hangout in Itaewon specializes in cocktails and tapas. Check out DOJO, a downstairs bar with huge variety of alcohol on offer.
1 R10
Hanjin Villa
R3 Buddha’s Belly Thai A4 (02) 793-2173 • 673 Itaewon 2-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul C2 The Baker’s Table Bakery Cafe A3 070-7717-3501 • 691 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul
R17 R5 L5
R4
L6
R4 Burger Mine Burgers A2 070-8263-2034 • 45-9 Yongsan-dong 2-ga, Yongsan-gu, Seoul
Namsan Daerim Apts.
2
R5 Casablanca Moroccan A2 (02) 797-8367 • 44-8 Yongsan-dong 2-ga, Yongsan-gu, Seoul R8
R6 Pizzarium Pizza A5 (02) 312-7580 • 529 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul
R18
L5 Phillies Pub Pub A2 (02) 793 2548 • 44-17 Yongsan-dong 2-ga, Yongsan-gu, Seoul
Hanjin Villa
Hansin Apts.
3
C2 L1 R9
R19
L7
Buy the Way cvs
MG Community Credit Cooperatives
R8 HBC Gogitjib Korean bbq A2 (02) 796-5528 • 46-5 Yongsandong 2-ga, Yongsan-gu, Seoul
Wellbeing Mart Seoul Digitech High School
IBK R22 S1 L12 L9 L11 L10 L2 R1 R3
4
R19 Kkaolli pochana Thai B3 (070) 8872-1995 • 706 Itaewon 2-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul A hole-in-the-wall Thai restaurant serving real Thai with generous portions at cheap price.
R15
L6 Bonny’s Pizza & Pub Pub A2 (02) 792 0303 • 44-17 Yongsan-dong 2-ga, Yongsan-gu, Seoul
R13 R12 R6
5
Itaewon Post Office
Pacific Mansion Gold
L7 Maloney’s Pub & Grill Pub b3 (02) 3785-1675 • 225-67 Itaewon 2-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul
CU cvs Rose Hill Villa
Itaewon Cheil Church
Itaewon Elementary School
Hyundai Villa
2 Itaewon Villa
1
6
Green Mart
No
ksa
pye
ong
Stn
.
L9 Craftworks Taphouse Microbrewery A3 (02) 794-2537 • 238 Noksapyeong-daero, Yongsan-gu, Seoul The first expat-owned microbrewery in Korea still offers some of the best brews around. Try out their seasonal tastes in a warm and inviting ambience. S1 The Nail Bar NAIL SHOP B4 (02) 794-8549 • Manicure, pedicure, tanning and waxing R23 MEATBALLISM Burger C3 (02) 792-5161 • 225-143 Itaewon 2-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul L13 UPPER DECK Sports bar B3 (02) 749-1223 • 305-5 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul American sports bar & Grill
R9 The Booth Pizza b3 (02) 1544-4723 • 705 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul R10 Jacoby’s Burgers Burgers A1 (02) 3785-0433 • 45-6 Yongsan-dong 2-ga, Yongsan-gu, Seoul R12 Taco Chili Chili Mexican A5 (02) 797-7219 • 527 Itaewon 2-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul R13 Trevia Italian A4 (02) 794-6003• 557 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Their pizzas are Roman-style; the thin, crispy dough comes out of the oven literally smoking hot. R15 Mi Madre Spanish A4 (02) 790-7875 • 568 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul R17 Kusina Filipino A2 (02) 790-1826 • 44-7 Yongsan-dong 2-ga, Yongsan-gu, Seoul R18 Pizzaria Retro Italian B3 (02) 749-8947 • 712 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul L10 The Springs tap house craft beer A4 (02) 795-7732 • 238 Noksapyeong-daero, Yongsan-gu, Seoul L11 Pier 39 bar A4 (02) 749-0339 • 658 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul L12 Filament craft beer A4 (02) 749-0339 • 658 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul R22 Don Charly MEXICAN A4 (070) 8154-4475 • 250-12 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Authentic Mexican by Mexican chef
ITAEWON (GYEOngnidan & HAEbangchon)
R1 Bao Asian A4 (02) 797-4769 • 658 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul
B
A
Yongsandong Apts.
L1
D
E
Embassy of The Republic of the Philippines
2 1
3
Hangangjin Stn.
R1
1
C
ITAEWON (GYEOngnidan & HAEbangchon)
Itaewon (OVERVIEW)
The establishments on our maps are carefully selected and based solely on recommendations from our editors, foodies and readers. Groove strictly separates these pages from commercial advertisements. These maps are only intended to serve the interests and cravings of our readers
H
Grand Hyatt Seoul Hotel
R14
Leeum Museum
C2
2
R15 F4
Itaewon Elementary School
2
L9
ITAEWON (main)
S2
H
1
4
3
No
R23
ksa
pye 3 ong S
R4
L3 Hamilton Hotel 2 1 Itaewon Stn. 3 4
F1
tn.
L4
R20
Cheil L12
L7
L5
R9
R2 R7
R16
F3
IP Boutique Hotel
R11
H
L8
Hannam Foreigner’s Apts.
L10
L1 Craftworks Taphouse Microbrewery A1 (02) 794-2537 • 238 Noksapyeong-daero, Yongsan-gu, Seoul The first expat-owned microbrewery in Korea still offers some of the best brews around. Try out their seasonal tastes in a warm and inviting ambience. R1 HBC Gogitjib (Haebangchon branch) A1 Korean bbq (02) 796-5528 • 46-5 Yongsandong 2-ga, Yongsan-gu, Seoul R2 Linus BBQ SANDWICH B3 (02) 790-2920 • 56-20 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Pulled pork sandwich, Brisket sandwich, coleslaw, mac and cheese R4 Vatos Urban Tacos Mexican B3 (02) 797-8226 • 181-8 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul A unique ambience makes this upscale restaurant an ideal place to fill your stomach with authentic favorites. F1 What The Book English bookstore B3 (02) 797-4342 • 2F. 176-2 Itaewon 1-dong, Yongsan-gu,Seoul Located in Itaewon, this English bookstore has new books, used books and childrens’ books. www.whatthebook.com
L3 Reilly’s Taphouse bar C3 (02) 792-6590 • 3F. 123-32 Itaewon 1-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Reilly’s Taphouse boasts some 20 draft beers and is committed to carrying the best craft brews from Korea and around the world. R7 Joongsim Korean B3 (02) 2235-0707 • 34-39 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul
R19
Bokwang R9 Le Saigon Vietnamese B3 Elementary School (02) 792-0336 • 74-33 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul
L5 Wolfhound Irish pub C3 (02) 749-7971 • 128-6 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul L7 Rocky Mountain Tavern bar D3 010-6654-7202 • 736-12 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul R11 On The Border Mexican D3 (02) 792-0682 www.ontheborder.co.kr Authentic Mexican restaurant with homemade dishes and freshest ingredients with 25 margaritas to choose from. F3 High Street Market Grocery shop for imported items D3 (02) 2201-0652 • 727-24 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul One-stop shop for imported groceries and coveted deli products. F4 Beaker Shopping D2 (070) 4118-5216 • 738-36 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Discover a wide array of fashion items by the best international designers including James Perse, Aspesi, Rag&Bone, Vince, Jack Spade and more. R20 Sushi Way SUSHI RESTAURANT B3 (02) 794-3774 • 6 fl., 64-15 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Authentic Japanese Sushi restaurant with Fresh ingredients & Best price R14 Pizzeria D’Buzza Italian E1 (02) 794-9474 • 743-33 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul This trendy joint has a full range of Italian fare. Make sure to make a reservation.
Place to relax and unwind Oriental massage and Spa packages for couples available
R15 Nari Jib Korean bbq D2 (02) 793-4860 • 738-24 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Samgyupsal and Cheonggukjang (pork BBQ and soybean paste pot stew) C2 Richesse Velours Cafe D2 (02) 797-8878 • 741-17 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Try its signature dessert menu item, bottled cupcakes. S2 One Spa Therapy SPA & massage D2 (02) 749-0409 • 3rd fl., 124-7 Itaewon 1-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul, Spa and massage packages starts at 20,000w. R16 Gida Sushi Japanese D2 (02) 749-3558 • 683-125 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Sushi bar with reasonable prices. L8 Yuda Japanese bar D2 (02) 388-5081 • 683-126 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul L9 Muntaro Japanese bar D2 (02) 796-7232 • 683-124 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul L10 Bull & Barrel Sports bar B3 (010) 9982-2423 • 44-82, Itaewon 1-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul A new hybrid bar and restaurant with a huge terrace and roof top and a state-of-the-art Dart Bar to throw at. R19 Left Coast Artisan burgers BURGER C3 (02) 6248-2998 • 131-20 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu. Seoul L12 Craftworks Taphouse Microbrewery D3 070-4131-5002 • 736-9 Hannam-dong 2nd floor, Yongsan-gu, Seoul R23 Miya Got The Balls Italian A3 (070) 4231-4346 • 549, Itaewon 2-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Korean-American chef from Master Chef Korea serving homemade meatballs, pasta and porchetta.
ONE SPA THERAPY
Foot massage 20,000w Full body massage starts at 30,000w
02-749-0409 (02) 793-2344
This tropical resort-themed lounge is a getaway from bustling city.
Seoul, Yongsan-gu, Itaewon-dong 112-3 Sun-Thu: 4:30 pm – 3 am Fri-Sat: 4:30 pm – 5 am
3rd fl. 124-7 Itaewon 1-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul
(3 mins from Itaewon subway stn.)
10am – 5am
ITAEWON (MAIN)
The establishments on our maps are carefully selected and based solely on recommendations from our editors, foodies and readers. Groove strictly separates these pages from commercial advertisements. These maps are only intended to serve the interests and cravings of our readers
A
B
C
D
E
Cafe / Bakery / DESSERT Hair salon / spa
1
RESTAURANT PUB / LOUNGE Shopping
R10 L9 L8
R5 L6
R2
R9
R7
2
L10 L19
H
L1 L16
Shinhan Bank ABC Mart
H
R16
D’oro Hotel
R13
Hamilton Hotel
L17
L11
R14
R11 L5
R6
2
1
Concierge
3
Itaewon Stn.
3
4
R20
Starbucks
GS gas station
Itaewon Fire Station
KB
R17
L13
L18 R21
7-Eleven cvs
IBK
H
ITW Hotel
CU cvs CU cvs
R19
4
R1
R1 Bulldogs HOTDOG D4 (02) 6248-2998 • 131-20 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu. Seoul R2 HBC Gogitjib (Itaewonbranch) Korean bbq A2 (02) 796-5528 • 118-9 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul
L9 Prost pub C2 (02) 796-6854 • 116-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul
R19 Marrakech Night Moroccan D4 (02) 795-9441 • 131-3 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul
R10 Maple Tree House Korean bbq C2 (02) 790-7977 • 116-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul
L16 Reilly’s Taphouse bar D2 (02) 792-6590 • 3F. 123-32 Itaewon 1-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul
R11 Ho Lee Chow Chinese C2 (02) 793-0802 • 119-25 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul L1
L10 All that Jazz Jazz club D2 (02) 795-5701 • 112-4 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul R13 My Thai Asian D2 (02) 794-8090 • 123-20 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul
R21 Un Deux Trois French D2 (02) 796-1244 • 123-33 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul An authentic French brasserie where traditions and trends mix, symbolizing a Parisian way of life L17
R14
L1 Rose & Crown pub A2 (02) 794-2555 • 118-23 Itaewon 1-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Classic British pub specializes in ales and carries 40+ draft and bottled beers R5 Zelen Bulgarian B2 (02) 749-0600 • 116-14 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul R6 Le saint EX French B2 (02) 795-2465 • 119-28 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul L5 Baby Guinness pub B2 (02) 792-2777 • 119-17 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul R7 Pattaya Thai B2 (02) 793-4888 • 116-14 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul L6 Gecko’s Avenue Lounge C2 (02) 790-0540 • 116-6 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul
R14 Jonny Dumpling 2 Chinese D2 (02) 790-8839 • 123-5 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul
L17 The Glamping Bar&Grill A2 (02) 792-3189 • 171-23 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul L11 Jeon Mandang Korean bar D2 Recreate the feel of outdoor camping and BBQ cuisine in (070) 8749-5004 • 118-18 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul the warm indoors. L13 Dillinger’s pub B3 (02) 793-7232 • 72-32 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul
R18 Don Valley Korean bbq C3 (02) 796-2384 • 127-12 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul L15 Between bar E2 (02) 795-6164 • 124-7 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul
L8 Glam Lounge C2 (010) 2657-6853 • 116-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul R17 Gecko’s Terrace American C3 (02) 749-9425128-5 • Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul L8
R17
L18 Hollywood Grill Bar&Grill D2 (02) 749-1659 • 123-33 Itaewon 1-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul One of Itaewon’s favorite expat haunts. A real sports bar famed for its burgers and its broad range of pub fare. L19 The Bungalow Bar D2 (02) 793-2344 • 112-3 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul This tropical resort-themed lounge is a getaway from bustling city. L19
GArosugil (sinsa-dong)
The establishments on our maps are carefully selected and based solely on recommendations from our editors, foodies and readers. Groove strictly separates these pages from commercial advertisements. These maps are only intended to serve the interests and cravings of our readers B
A
C
Cafe / Bakery / DESSERT Hair salon / spa
L4
RESTAURANT
R1 Elbon the table Italian A1 (02) 547-4100 • 530-5 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul
PUB / LOUNGE 1
Shopping
CU cvs
R1
Elementary School
7-Eleven cvs
R2 Vatos Urban Tacos Mexican A1 (02) 548-8226 • 532-11 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul
Shingu
R2
Starbucks
C1 La Eskimo Bakery B2 (02) 512-9244 • 546-3 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul
Imagestar
C11
R4 Spain club Spanish A2 (02) 515-1118 • 524-30 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul
2
C12
R5 Deli Heinz Burg Burger A3 (02) 541-8780 • 534-1 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul
C1
R4
R5
C2
3
R6
C4
R19
Hindol Villa
R7
GS25 cvs
R14
R10 R9 f3
Hanyoung House
C8
4
C9
R11
f2
L5
CU cvs
L2 7-Eleven cvs
KB
Starbucks IBK
GS25 cvs
R16
sa
Sin
. Stn
C2 Ikovox coffee Cafe A3 (02) 545-2010 • 534-10 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul
f1 Massimo Dutti Shopping B4 (02) 545-6172 • 541-7 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul
R7 buccella sandwich B3 (02) 517-7339 • 534-22 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul
f2 8 seconds Shopping B4 (070) 7090-1144 • 535-12 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul
C4 Godiva chocolate B3 (02) 517-3979 • 545-6 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul
C9 Ben’s Cookies Cookies A4 (02) 514-0051 • 518-10 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul
R9 Sarubia Italian B4 (02) 540-7344 • 542-3 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul
f3 Marimekko Shopping B4 (02) 515-4757 • 535-18 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul
R10 Hansung Mungo B4
R14 March Rabbit Veggie C3 (02) 3444-4514 • 560 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul
R19 Ozit Gastro pub B3 • 544-5 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul New addition to Garosugil serving sandwich, burgers and salads with the finest craft beer.
R12
5
H
R15
S-oil gas Station
R15 Yum Thai Thai C5 (02) 594-7988 •5-4 Nonhyun-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul R16 Songok Korean b5 (02) 545-3297 • 2 fl.537-7 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Since 1961, it’s been serving one of Korea’s best UDON, SOBA and DONKATSU. Strongly recommended for casual dining.
Youngdong Hotel
C12 Mercy Juice JUICE B2 (02) 547-3595 • 551-11 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Cleanses using 100% supernatural cold-pressed juice
C11 Remicone ICECREAM B2 (02) 6207-1029 • 547-12 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Ice cream haven.
L4 Hanchu PUB B1 (02) 541-0969 • 549-9 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Awarded ‘The best crispy fried chicken in Seoul’ by Chowzter. Get a side of pork stuffed and fried chili peppers.
L2 Wanso Izakaya C4 (02) 3444-2021 • 539-4 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul C8 Tokyo Panya Bakery C4 (02) 547-7790 • 543-8 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul
R11 Taco Chili Chili Mexican A4 (02) 545-1705 • 535-9 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul
C6
C6 Coffee Smith Cafe B5 (02) 3445-3372 • 536-12 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul
R6 The Original Pancake House Pancake A3 (02) 511-7481 • 523-20 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul
Japanese Ramyeon (02) 543-7901 • 2F. 542-3 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul
f1
R12 Bibigo Korean B5 (02) 544-7423 • 2F. 537-5 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul
L5 De Chou Lounge C4 (02) 514-2014 • B1 fl. 540-19 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Carries unique Korean traditional soju not found in anywhere else. Pricey but absolutely worth exploring masterpieces by local brewers.
R1 Dos Tacos Mexican B2
R2 Mano di Chef Italian C2
(02) 561-7111 • B1 825-18 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul
R3 O’yull Healthy Fusion B3
(02) 554-0511 • 820-9 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul
R4 Seoga & Cook Italian C2
(02) 558-5263 • 618-18 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul All menu items are priced at 18,000won
R5 BOBIRED Korean Fusion C2
(02) 3452-1515 • 618-18 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul
R6 Norita Garden Italian B3
(02) 596-5258 • 7F 1317-13 Seocho-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul Cream pasta is recommended.
R7 Steakholic Steakhouse C3
(02) 568-8768 • 817-8 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul All-you-can-eat steak for 28,000won
R8 Doni Burger Burger B3
(02) 534-6282 • 1317-31 Seocho-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul Operated by famous comedian Chung Hyung-don
R9 Primo BacioBaci Italian B3
(02) 501-0885 • 816-3 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul (02) 3453-7697 • B3. 821 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Italian restaurant with a stage for live music and private parties
R11 Bonguhwaro Korean BBQ C2
(02) 558-8452 • 619-14 Yeoksam 1-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul
R12 Gatten Sushi sushi C3
(02) 2051-1477 • 822-4 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul A Japanese sushi franchise
R13 Dochi Pizzeria Pizza C2
(02) 556-8001 • 620-17 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Neapolitan pizza made in a forno oven
R14 General Banjum Chinese C2
(02) 553-1920 • 619-5 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Try various kinds of dimsum
(02) 539-6650 • 818-8 Yeoksam 1-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Serving 9 different kinds of Big Rock premium beers from Alberta, Canada
R17 Lawry’s The Prime Rib Steak A4
(02) 590-2800 • 3F. 1317-23 Seocho-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul
B
C Hair salon / spa
L2
Kyobo Tower
R19
1
Hollys
R1
R18 Sushino Baek Chef Sushi C2
(02) 565-0802 • 619-5 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul
RESTAURANT PUB / LOUNGE
R20
R19 Genroku Udon
Japanese noodles A1 (02) 3481-8555 • 1302-50 Seocho-dong,Seocho-gu, Seoul All-you-can-eat Japanese noodles
Yeoksam Post Office
R26
CGV
R4
R15
R16
R18
R5
R14 R11
2
R20 Elkin the Black Italian B2
(02) 568-6987 • 813 Yeoksam 1-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Try the lunch special of cream sauce with Boston steak pasta at 25,300won, served for two people.
R27 R13
Giordano R24
Lotte Cinema
R21 Rabat Moroccan B3
(02) 561-3665 • B2. 821-1 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Beef tajine with couscous at 26,500won
R25
3
L3
R8 R3
(02) 599-1140 • 1317-14 Seocho-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul Popular Japanese burger franchise comes to Korea
R22 MegaBox R17
R10 R21
Starbucks
9
(02) 563-7977 • 822-1 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul
R24 Chez Jin Italian C2
(02) 566-9079 • 817-35 Yeoksam 1-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Enjoy Italian cuisine with club music
L3 SOS Seafood Pub C3
(02) 508-0458 • 818-11 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Cajun seafood at its finest
R25 Johnny Rockets Burger B3
(02) 2051-1226 • 816-4 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul
S1
R12
12 Gangnam Stn.
1
8
4
7
R23
Samsung Digital
6
L2 Kodachaya Bar B2
(02) 3453-6666 • 808-5 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul 7 different tent bars with a unique concept for each. Its motto is ‘be crazy enough to win and too tired to lose’
11
10
S1 Nova Skin Clinic Skin clinic C3
(02) 2055-3610 • B1. 1320-10 Seocho-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul
L1
R6
R22 Mos Burger Burger B3
R23 Ganga Indian A4
R7
R9
Gangnam Stn.
R10 I Have a Dream Italian B3
A
L1 Big Rock Brewery Pub C3
hyeon Stn. Line9. Sinnon
(02) 593-5904 • 1303-35 Seocho-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul Two thumbs up. Fresh ingredients and a reasonable price.
2
3
R15 Big Plato Italian C2
(02) 557-3442 • 619-2 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul A vintage interior and decent prices.
R16 Mies Container Italian C2
(02) 536-5786 • 1316-29 Seocho-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul Salad spaghetti and bulgogi cream cheese pasta are recommended.
R26 Julio Mexican C2
(02) 568-5324 • 619-1 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul
R27 Uncle 29 Mexican A2
•1308-16 Seocho-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul
(02) 590-2800
j
3rd floor, GT Tower, 1317-23, Seocho-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul www.lawrys.kr lunch 11:30am-2:30pm Dinner 5:30 pm-9:30pm
GANGNAM STATION
The establishments on our maps are carefully selected and based solely on recommendations from our editors, foodies and readers. Groove strictly separates these pages from commercial advertisements. These maps are only intended to serve the interests and cravings of our readers
HongDae (HongIK Univ.)
The establishments on our maps are carefully selected and based solely on recommendations from our editors, foodies and readers. Groove strictly separates these pages from commercial advertisements. These maps are only intended to serve the interests and cravings of our readers
A
B
C
5 Ho ng
4
Cafe / Bakery / DESSERT
ik
Hair salon / spa .
2
Stn
.
Lotte Cinema S1
n St ik ng 8
RESTAURANT
7
Ho
ng
Ho
PUB / LOUNGE
1
D
3
ik
Stn
.
6
1
DANCE CLUB
9
KFC
Coffee Bean R4 R1
Seokyo Elementary School
V-HALL R17
Seokyo Prugio Apts. C1
2
H
Bobo Hotel
Smoothie King
VELOSO D7
Halla Mansion
D12
R16
Lotte Cinema
9 8
n.
St
3
KT&G SangsangMadang
D9 L1
4
R11 R8
7-Eleven cvs
C2 C3
5 Ha
pj
3
p
Ha
10
ng
o je
R12
D2
R13
D5
2 1
Wau Park
D6
PRISM HALL
D11
Hongik University
D3
CLUB GOGOS CLUB TA 打 D10 CLUB EVANS CLUB FF R2
Jungang heights Apts.
D1
eo
ng
St 6 n. 7
Freebird2 EVANS LOUNGE
R3
R5
C4
Wau Park
R10 R18 C5
1 Sangsu Stn. 4
2 3
C1 Paul & Paulina Bakery C2 (02) 333-0185 • 344-6 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul
C3 Museum café aA Cafe b3 (02) 3143-7312 • 408-11 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul
R1 Primo Baciobaci Italian C1 (02) 323-0098 • 346-47 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul
C4 Okrumong Cafe b3 (02) 325-4040 • 402-18 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul
D1 Club Freebird 2 (Big Bird) Club b3 (02) 335-4576 408-17 Seogyo-dong, mapo-gu, Seoul Club playing live music by local artists and bands facebook.com/clubfreebird2
C2 Peony Cafe b3 (02) 333-5325 • 403-15 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul
R10 Pakumori Curry Japanese curry b3 (02) 322-5001 • 411-15 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul
D2 Club NB Club / hip-hop C2 • 362-4 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoull
R2 Yoonsi Milbang Korean C3 (02) 3143-4116 • 411-6 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul
C5 Kyo bakery Bakery b3 (02) 794-5090 • 317-7 Sangsoo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul
D5 Club M2 Club / electronic b2 • 367-11 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul
R3 Sunny the Grill Italian b3 (02) 337-8951 • 401-19 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul
R11 Hongdae Jopok Dukpoki Korean b3 (02) 337-9933 • 407-21 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul
D6 Club Mansion Club / electronic b2 • 368-22 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul
R4 La Paella Spanish C1 (02) 322-8870 • 2F. 345-3 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul
R12 Aloha Table Hawaiian b2 (02) 324-7718 • 364-14 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul
D7 Club Freebird Club / live music b2 • 364-22 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul
R5 Hakadabunko Japanese RAMEN c3 (02) 338-5536 • 93-28 Sangsoo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul
R13 Agio Italian C2 (02) 322-8133 • 364-6 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul
D9 Club DGBD Club / live music b3 • 395-17 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul
S1 Hair & Joy Hair Salon C1 (02) 363-4253 • 3F. 168-3 Donggyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul
R16 Yeonga Korean BBQ b2 (02) 336-9992 • 366-13 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul
D10 Club Gogos Club / rock c3 • 407-8 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul
L1 Castle Praha Pub b3 (02) 337-6644 • 395-19 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul
R17 Gusto Taco Mexican C2 (02) 3142-8226 • 342-16 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul Mexican traditionalism done right: an efficient balance of flavor and texture.
D11 Club NB2 Club / hip-hop C2 • 361-10 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul
R8 No Stress Kitchen Italian b3 (02) 6083-1252 • 404-8 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul
R18 Gusto Taco Mexican C3 (02) 338-8226 • 146-6 Sangsu-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul
D12 Club Cocoon Club / hip-hop C2 • 364-26 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul
#liveishere Every last Friday on the month!
Get your pass at 20,000 won, Access 10 hottest and funkiest clubs in Hongdae!
R1 Yeonnam Blues Restaurant/bar B4 (02) 325-1478 • 150-6 Donggyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul Wines, cocktails, beer or even soju well go with its menu items. Groove recommends Halla tonic (Hallasan soju mixed with tonic) and spicy seafood stew.
A
1
B
C
D
R8 Soiyeonnam 소이연남 THAI C2 (02) 323-5130 • 229-67 Yeonnam-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul
Yeonnam-dong Community Service Center
R9 Lie Lie Lie Vietnamese C3 (010) 2880-7973 • 227-5 Yeonnam-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul BANH MI (Vietnamese sandwich)
R8 L1
Green House
2
L2 R6
R3
홍어랑탁이랑 R4
L3 R5 C3 R7 R9 R2
po
Air roa
ail
rt R d
C1 Nakrangparang Cafe C4 (02) 6204-7888 • 148-3 Donggyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul Named after the first café in Korea opened in 1931. Rest your feet at this retrointerior café with a bowl of mango shaved ice. 12 pm – 10 pm. Closed on Mondays
C2
3
Demyung Vivaldi Park Apts. Gyeongam little theater Sambuja Squid Bulgogi
Jin House
R1
Yeonnam Police Box
4
C1 C4
C5
R10
R2 Tuk Tuk Noodle Thai Thai D3 070-4407-5130 • 227-37 Yeonnam-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul Thai chef and Thai beer served in Thai interiors and music.
5
L1 Dan Dan Japanese bar C2 (02) 6092-2298 • 228-9 Yeonnam-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul Izakaya serving various menu items at reasonable price starting at 4,000won. 5pm – 3 am. Closed on Tuesdays L2 228-9 Café / bar C2 070-4244-2289 • 228-9 Yeonnam-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul A cozy place to enjoy cocktails and live music. 2pm – 2am R3 Casa di Noa Italian B3 (02) 3142-1108 • 257-8 Yeonnam-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul Homemade Italian cuisine served by an Italian chef owner. R4 달빛부엌 Moonlight kitchen Asian cuisine C2 (02) 322-3559 • 227-13 Yeonnam-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul Thai, Chinese and Japanese dishes cooked with the freshest from market daily. 5:30 pm – 1:30 am. Closed on Sundays
C5 Travel Maker cafe B4 (02) 338-1545 • 152-7 Donggyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul American breakfast
3 4
홍대최대포
R10 SOUPMAN Restaurant C4 Serving chicken, brocoll, pumpkin, potato, gorgonzola and cacao soups starting from 5,600 won. R7 Assisi Italian D3 070-4114-0736 • 227-6 Yeonnam-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul Almost as if you’re dining at your friends’. This small but welcoming ambiance is recommended for dining with your friends. / 11:50 am – 11 pm. Closed on Mondays. C2 Viva Brasil Brazilian dessert cafe C2 070-8951-8282 • 255-25 Yeonnam-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul A dessert café serving Brazilian fruit bowl, smoothies and cheese breads. C3 Isim Coffee shop D3 070-4238-5050 • 227-5 Yeonnam-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul Just when you think you know about coffee, the barista owner will extend your knowledge. Just ask. You won’t regret C4 Tomi’s bakery Bakery C4 (02) 333-0608 • 148-4 Donggyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul A local bakery opened by a Japanese patissier Tomigawa. Vietnamese coffee is recommended to go with its breads. / 10 am – 9 pm
Donggyo-dong Samgeori
Ho
ng
ik
St
n.
5
L3 Sisili Soju bar D2 (02) 334-8117 • 227-15 Yeonnam-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul Groove editors’ favorite spot. Seafood grilled or raw, beef grilled or raw and Hallasan soju. Soju lovers’ haven for sleepless nights. 6 pm – 5 am R6 Taiwanese Night Market 대만야시장 Taiwanese restaurant C2 (02) 322-3058 • 227-20 Yeonnam-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul Various Taiwanese dumplings, Paux mama, fried chicken/prawn/port/squid starting at 5,000won. The best spot for late night snacks in the area. 9 am – 2 am R5 Himeji Japanese curry D3 010-4743-1055 • 227-15 Yeonnam-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul Homemade curry at less than 5,500won. Its menu curry noodle is strongly recommended to first time visitors.
Yeonnam-dong
The establishments on our maps are carefully selected and based solely on recommendations from our editors, foodies and readers. Groove strictly separates these pages from commercial advertisements. These maps are only intended to serve the interests and cravings of our readers
SAMCHEONG-DONG
The establishments on our maps are carefully selected and based solely on recommendations from our editors, foodies and readers. Groove strictly separates these pages from commercial advertisements. These maps are only intended to serve the interests and cravings of our readers
A
B
C
D
Silkroad Museum
R12 C1
1
R3 R4
R1
Eros Museum
R2
LeeC Gallery
Bansuk Villa
2
Café bene National Folklore Museum Samcheong Police Box Jinsun Book Café
R6
C2
3
Jeongdok Public Library
CU cvs
R5
Bukchon Art&culture Museum
C4
Hakgojae Gallery
R11
KIEHL’S
C3
Seoul Education Museum
4
R9
Art Sonjae Center R7
R10
National Museum of Contemporary Art, Seoul Branch
R8
Dam Gallery R13
R1
C1 Milk Bakery B1 (02) 735-7111 • 16-2 Palpan-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul
R7
R1 A table French B1 (02) 736-1048 • 104-8 Palpan-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul R2 A table bis French B1 (02) 736-1049 • 100-2 Palpan-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul R3
R3 Cheongsoojeong 청수정 Korean / Seafood C1 (02) 738-8288 • 88-23 Samcheong-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul
R12
R5 The Restaurant French B3 (02) 735-8441 • 59-1 Sogyeok-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul R6 Agio Italian C3 (02) 720-1211 • 23-11 Hwa-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul C3 Hit The Spot Cafe b3 (02) 739-5100 • 87 Sogyeok-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul
R8 Ramyeon Dangineunnal 라면땡기는날 Korean noodle C4 (02) 733-3330 • 138-21 Hwa-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul R9 Dal Indian curry C4 (02) 736-4627 • 144-2 Sogyeok-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul R10 Satbyuldang Chicken C4 (070) 7773-4773 • 144-6 Sogyeok-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul Skewered chicken with soy sauce / spicy sauce at 2,000won. Just look for a long waiting line.
R4 Chez simon French C1 (02) 730-1045 • 63-10 Samcheongdong, Jongro-gu, Seoul C2 Café aA Cafe b3 (02) 722-1211 • 55 Sogyeok-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul C2
C4 Coffee Bangakgan 커피방앗간 Cafe b3 (02) 732-7656 • 102-1 Hwa-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul R7 Cheonjin Poja 천진포자 Asian C4 (02) 739-6086 • 148-2 Sogyeok-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul
R5
R11 Samcheonghwa Korean C4 (02) 733-8273 • 112 Sogyeok-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul R12 Flora Pizza C1 (02) 732-7009 • 147-20 Samcheong-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul Forno-ovened pizza R13 Kongji Potji Italian D4 (02) 745-2203 • 34-1 Jae-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul
A
7-eleven cvs
L3
C
D
E
Seochon (서촌), located west of the Gyeongbokgung Palace, literally “West village” / “Western village”, is one of the oldest neighborhoods of Seoul, traditionally associated with Joseon era and Korean literature. Long neglected compared to the wealthier Bukchon (on the other side of the palace), Seochon has reclaimed part of its popularity, particularly following the protection of one of Seoul’s largest clusters of hanok (over 600), and the renovation of landmarks to host cultural venues. Experience the warm memories of the hidden old alleys of Seochon
1
2
B
L4
Seochon
The establishments on our maps are carefully selected and based solely on recommendations from our editors, foodies and readers. Groove strictly separates these pages from commercial advertisements. These maps are only intended to serve the interests and cravings of our readers
Starbucks
L8 L7 Church
R1
R4 R3 Hyundai Motors
3
L6
L9
Dunkin Donuts
Paris Baguette
L2
R2
L1
Geumcheongyo Market
Kia Motors
L5
2 CU cvs
1
3 Gyeongbokg
ung Stn. (Line3)
L2 Bob Dylan & The Band Pub C3 (02) 739-6565 • 90 Chebu-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul 8pm - 2am
R1 Chebudong Janchijib (체부동잔치집) Korean D3 (02) 730-5420 • 190 Chebu-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoula Perilla seed noodle, seafood and green onion jeon (pancake) and spicy noodle recommended. 9:30 am – 1 am L1 Seochon Kyedanjib (서촌계단집) Pub C3 (02) 737-8412 • 11-1 Naeja-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul Two thumbs up! The best seafood tent-bar in Seoul. Serves the freshest seafood of the season daily delivered directly from the local fishermen.
R4 JeoNDaegamdaek (전대감댁) Korean C3 (070) 4202-5170 • 184 Chebu-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul Serves unique and various kinds of Makeoli. Its menu items are perfect for meals as well. L3 Cheolpannam (철판남) Pub A2 (070) 8776-6001 • 155-2 Philun-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul Teppan Yaki bar with Wagyu (Kobe) beef steak Reasonable steak menu price starting at 15,000 won. L4 Philun Sanghye (필운상회) Pub A2 Opened by the same owner of Cheolpannam (iron-pan man), serves anju to go with soju. Customers can order from Cheolpannam menu as well.
L7 Hyoja Barbe (효자바베) Pub B2 (070) 8749-0019 • 210-3 Chebu-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul Pork bbq, chicken and grilled prawns starting at 25,000 won.
L5 Anju Maeul (안주마을)
R2 Tongyoung Sangsungui (통영생선구이) Korean C3 (02) 739-3322 • 20 Naeja-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul Grilled fish and seafood restaurant
R3 Simsanae (심산애) Korean B3 (02) 734-1112 • 205-1 Philun-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul Strongly recommended its Deodeok Makeoli made of mountain herb harvested be the owner a real ginseng digger.
Pub D3 (02) 723-3529 • 1-2 Naej a-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul Cooked octopus and boiled cockles
L6 Passion Patato (열정감자) Pub C3 (070) 7778-4676 • 24 Naeja-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul Fried potatoes with various seasonings and coffee draught beer and citrus draught beer.
L8 Seochon 181 (서촌181) JAPANESE PUB C2 (02) 733-0181 • 181 Chebu-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul Japanese casual pub with many sake menu.
L9 Killi BanBan (킬리뱅뱅) PUB C3 (010) 5737-0852 • 23 Naeja-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul Spanish Hipster pub carrying the finest Platinum beer.
Myeong-dong
The establishments on our maps are carefully selected and based solely on recommendations from our editors, foodies and readers. Groove strictly separates these pages from commercial advertisements. These maps are only intended to serve the interests and cravings of our readers
A
B
C
D
E
Euljiro 1(il)-ga Stn. 8
7-Eleven cvs
5 7
6
1 Lotte Hotel
KEB
Seoul
TGI
i
Mr. Pizza
Myeong-dong Tourist Information Center
Metro Hotel
Skypark Hotel [II]
7-Eleven cvs
Skypark Hotel [Central]
Lotte Duty Free
2
Lotte Avenuel
Seoul YMCA
ABC Mart
Ibis Ambassador Hotel
Lotte Cinema
R4
Hadongkwan
Osulloc Tee house
Seoul Royal Hotel
Starbucks
R2
Myeong-dong Donkatsu
Olive young
Myeong-dong Shinhan Bank Burger King Theater
Lotte Young Plaza
Nanta Theater CGV
Jhill Hotel
Police Eight Stn. SEconds
R3
Andong Jjimdak Myeong-dong Catholic church
Olive young
Frisbee
Levis
Chinese Embassy
3
Lacoste Dunkin Donuts
Vips
Hamheung Myeonok
R1
Myeong-dong Kyoja Seoul lobal Cultural Center
Kyesung Girls’High School
Nike Town Forever 21 American A-land apparel
New Balance
CROCS GS25 cvs
Savoy Hotel
Starbucks
4
NineTree Hotel Shinhan Bank
Quicksilver & Roxi
CGV
UNICLO
UNICLO Migliore
R1 Myeongdong Kyoja Korean D3 With more than 40 years of history, Myeongdong Kyoja has been loved by the locals for many years. The restaurant is popular for its Kalguksu, a Korean noodle dish that serves handmade noodles and other ingredients in a bowl of thick chicken broth. The mini dumpling toppings add a zesty touch while the crazy chili kimchi gives you garlic breath that may be hellish for your companion, but well worth it. The pork dumplings are also highly recommended. R2 Myeongdong Donkatsu Korean B2 Opened in 1983, this restaurant serves delicious donkatsu (Japanese pork cutlet). The secret is in aging thick slices of seasoned pork fillet (150kg total) for three to four days making the meat tenderer.
5
6
The Grand Hotel
Skypark Hotel [III] TOUSlesJOURS
8 7 ng Stn. Myeong-do
R3 Andong Jjimdak Korean D2 Dak means chicken in Korean, and jjim means steamed, stewed or braised in a sauce. Andong Jjimdak, which originated from the city of Andong, is a spicy version that has become enormously popular since late 1990’s. Braised in a sweet and savory braising liquid, the dish gets its spiciness from dried whole red chili peppers and fresh fiery hot green peppers called Cheongyang gochu. R4 Hadongkwan Korean D2 Opened in 1939, it is the most representative gomtang (traditional Korean soup boiled with beef bone) restaurant in Seoul. With its long history, Hadongkwan provides an authentic taste of gomtang and it only opens its door until 4:30pm.
This is the place where you can experience Korean culture and get information about travelling in Seoul.
HANDICRAFT-MAKING
K-FOOD COOKING
K-DRUM samullori
K-POP DANCE
HANBOK(Korean Traditional Costume)
K-BEAUTY MAKE-UP
Email seoulcenter3789@gmail.com
EXIT
5
Euljiro 1-ga Station
Website www.seoulculturalcenter.com (English support) Facebook www.facebook.com/Seoulcenter3789
Myeong-dong Tourist Information Center
10 min. walk
Opening Hours 10:30am - 7:30pm open everyday except New Year’s Day & Chuseok
Myeong-dong Theater
Tel 02.3789.7961
EXIT
6
5F
5 min. walk
5 min. walk
Address 5th FL, M-Plaza, 27 Myeong-dong 8-gil, Junggu, Seoul
EXIT
8
Myeong-dong Station
Copyright (C) 2015 SEOULMETRO. All rights Reserved.
Subway map