July 2015

Editorial

July 2015

U

nless you’ve been hiding under a rock for the last six weeks, you would have heard about a little something called Middle East Respiratory Syndrome (MERS).

Yes indeed, MERS has gripped the nation by informing us of the dangers of the virus and causing consternation every time somebody coughs or sneezes on the train.

This has resulted in canceled hospital appointments, avoidance of large crowds and has even reduced our contact time with camels.

Jokes aside, MERS has become a part of everyday life in Korea and in Seoul especially, with precautions still in place. Face masks and hand sanitizers are being offered freely by different organizations, and those experiencing the known symptoms of a fever, heavy breathing and coughs are encouraged to visit their local medical facility immediately. In fact, a designated MERS hotline (043 719 7777) is available 24/7 for those seeking advice.

MERS comes with certain repercussions, and away from the medical implications, the virus has caused havoc with Korea’s intended outdoor activities this season. However, with the correct precautions, many still feel Korea has lots to offer this summer.

Our July issue has plenty of suggestions, including a

O n

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C O V E R

July 2015

Cover photocourtesy of Yescom Cover design by Seong-eun Park This month we celebrate the ten year anniversary of one of the biggest outdoor music festivals in the country.

The Incheon Pentaport Rock Festival returns to Songdo for three days of music, five different themes and ten years of memories.

host of summer festivals. The tenth Incheon Pentaport Rock Festival brings The Scorpions, Seo Taiji and The Prodigy and their familiar sounds to Songdo at the start of August in what promises to be a huge celebration. At the end of July, Ansan M Valley Rock Festival offers a three-day camping spectacular with headliners Chemical Brothers, Foo Fighters and Noel Gallagher’s High Flying Birds providing some broader rock alternatives. Locally, Nice Legs talk about their three different approaches to the stage ahead of their July shows in Hongdae and Gwangju.

Away from the music, an alternative festival guide considers how to enjoy the summer season with mud, sunflowers and chicken. A number of sporting events also take us outside to experience the Student Olympics in the Gwangju Universiade, training with the Wolfhound Rovers or simply watching the forthcoming Asia Trophy competition in Singapore on one of the big screens in Seoul’s own sports bars.

Although precautions have been taken, it would be naïve to think that the MERS outbreak seems under control just yet. Events are still subject to change at any moment and it would be a good idea to check all the events listed carefully this month before making plans.

Despite the current situation, with a little precaution and forward planning, the Korean Summer still has plenty to offer. Get out there and enjoy the season.

ISSUE

105

JULY 2015

What’ s in thi s iss ue WELCOME

COMMUNIT Y

FOOD AN D DRINK

04 EDITORIAL

18 The Alternative

36 Summer Survival Guide

The MERS Effect

10 KEY PEOPLE

Meet Groove’s editorial team and a few of our talented contributors

12 WHAT’S ON

Festivals, concerts, happy hours, networking and events for every day of the month

14 THE NEWS

6

www.groovekorea.com July 2015

Former Seoul prosecutor hurt in knife attack, Professor slammed over test’s content, North sentences two Southerners to hard labor, North Korea pulls out of Gwangju games, blames UN office

Festival Selection Festivals span more than just music as Hallie Bradley talks about outdoor events with a difference

22 Makgeolli Magic

Discover the Korean alcoholic beverage which can help keep summer thirst at bay

24 Riding Against Traffick

Groove’s food team dishes out the spiciest, chilliest and the just plain chill for the summer

38 This Restaurant Should Be On Your List Myanmar refugees open a pop-up

39 Heuriger

Austrian in a hanok

The Race Against Traffick (RATF) are organizing their third annual charity bike ride from Busan to Seoul. Find out how to participate.

40 Merlion

26 From Coast To Coast

Il Gelato By Baik and Cavallaro Seriously authentic gelato

Singaporean treats

Whether heading north, south, east or west this summer, there’s a museum to enjoy in every corner of the country.

41 Pancho Sandia

28 Vlades: Bringing Chosun To

Restaurant Buzz Did someone say something about IHOP?

Spicy watermelon killer tequila cocktail

The Top Of The Fashion Dynasty Watch yester-year fashion revive as Moo Yeol Choi speaks about his current ‘Chosun’ collection from Vlades

42 Grocery Find: Papayas and Reese’s

INSIGHT

Recipe: Sweet Thai Chilli Bacon Rosettes with a Warm Pumpkin Mash This hits all your taste buds, including some you didn’t know you have.

30 Legal Overtones

A look inside Korea’s booming, yet illegal, tattoo industry

34 Breaking the Stereotype The meaning behind their tattoos and the people who wear them

Some classics are finding themselves on Korean grocery shelves

43 What does “craft beer” even mean?

New craft beer column explores the basics of brew

Deep-fried squid on a stick Hongdae is the king of weird—and that’s a good thing

ISSUE

105

JUly 2015

What’ s in thi s iss ue

ENTERTAINMENT

44 Pentaport: Solid

And Ready To Rock Enjoy a decade of rock music, activities and festivities at Pentaport’s tenth birthday bash

48 Squarepusher at SEMA

We speak to the prolific electronic music maestro Squarepusher at Seoul Museum of Art before his Korea debut concert.

52 The Many Faces of Nice Legs

The nicest legs you’ll ever find on the Hongdae stage

54 AT THE BOX OFFICE: THE BIG SCREEN Behind the scenes news on the upcoming “Ant-Man” and “Mission Impossible 5”

8

www.groovekorea.com July 2015

56 The Bucheon International

Fantastic Film Festival (BiFan) BiFan: Groove previews the exotic offerings of The Bucheon Fantastic Film Festival

57 Symbolic Exchange of The Sensuous Film critic Marc Raymond selects “The Tribe” from July’s schedule at Korean Film Archive, a controversial tale about the subculture of some deaf Ukrainian teens.

TRAVEL

58 The NGO-ization of

the Kingdom of Cambodia International development student and former Korea expat Christine Pickering spent four months as a human rights volunteer in Cambodia before returning to her native Canada. Now she looks back on her experience and asks who benefited more: Cambodians, or her?

SPORTS

62 Excitement Reaches its Peak

68 Come for the soccer,

stay for the people A women’s soccer team looks to build on the world cup

70 Barclays Asia Trophy Coming to Singapore A short plane ride offers Premier League soccer for the BPL-starved fan

for 2015 Gwangju Universiade A major step for young athlete’s considering the Rio Olympics in 2016 comes to South Korea

64 Something for the Spectators

Four bars to watch the summer’s sporting events

66 Building up to

the ultimate race An introduction to triathlon training for those eager for a new challenge

72

GROOVE LISTINGS

74 MAPS

Chance Dorland Chance Dorland is a radio broadcaster and creator of KoreaFM.net, an online radio station for independent musicians and podcasters. Originally from a 1,000 person town in rural Iowa, Chance has embraced a nomadic media lifestyle while jumping from positions with Conan O’Brien, Jimmy Kimmel, Howard Stern, and Adam Carolla to two years in Colombia with the Peace Corps and a year in Berlin as a government fellow. In his spare time, Chance likes to work.

Christine Pickering Charlotte Hammond Charlotte Hammond is a Seoul-based copywriter for a Korean company. She has previously lived in New York, New Jersey and Trento, Italy.

She blogs about living abroad “etc.” at charlottehammond.net.

Christine Pickering is a freelance writer and photographer based in her native Toronto. For four years she taught English in Seoul, explored the nooks and crannies of Southeast Asia, and worked for various human rights organizations. She is now a graduate student in International Development.

Dean Crawford Dean watches a lot of films, which roughly translated, means he’s a bit of a geek and spends a lot of time on his own in dark rooms. He’s from London, where he worked in the UK film industry spending time at Hogwarts and the X-Mansion working on Harry Potter and X-Men, amongst other films. Currently lives in Korea where he has been known to hang out in Seoul with The Avengers, but mostly stays in Jeonju eating bibimbap.

Johan Stofberg Starting off with his first triathlon race in August 2014, Johan has grown immensely in this sport and joined Seoul Synergy club at the start of 2015.

He has claimed a podium spot in several races and, for the near future, his goal is to qualify for the IM70.3 World Championships in Australia next year. Looking further down the road, Johan would like to race in Kona, Hawaii for the IM World Championships.

Marc Raymond Marc Raymond is an Associate Professor in the Department of Communications at Kwangwoon University in Seoul. He is the author of the book Hollywood’s New Yorker: The Making of Martin Scorsese (SUNY Press, 2013).

Ian Henderson Ian has been skulking around Korea for the better part of a decade. Sometimes writing or making documentaries, but always blowing all of his money on travel and adventure.

Julia Mellor Julia Mellor is the director of the Makgeolli Mamas and Papas Korea, an organization that provides opportunities for English speakers to discover and experience Korean traditional alcohol. Originally from Brisbane, Australia, Julia enjoys exploring traditional Korean alcohol breweries and tasting and experimenting with various makgeolli brewing techniques and recipes.

Simon McEnteggart Simon McEnteggart is a freelance film journalist specialising in Korean cinema. After completing a BA and MA in Film and Cultural Theory in the UK he moved to Ilsan, Korea where he founded Hanguk Yeonghwa (www.hangukyeonghwa.com) and reports on the latest developments from the Korean film industry.

10 www.groovekorea.com July 2015

Vanessa Sae-hee Burke You may see Vanessa Sae-hee wandering around Seoul with several dogs wrapped around her wrists but she’s up to more things when she isn’t with her four-legged friends. She co-hosts and co-organizes Wordsmiths and is always dreaming. With desires to constantly evolve, this womyn is sometimes thinking too much and eagerly learning and unlearning new things. She’s been here in Seoul for over five years and is still discovering more things about herself and her place in this universe.

KOREA 5th floor, Shinwoo Bldg. 5-7 Yongsan 3-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul, Korea.

Contact info (010) 5348-0212 / (02) 6925-5057 Advertising ads@groovekorea.com General inquiries info@groovekorea.com EDITORIAL Di r eC tor

naheen madarbakus naheen@groovekorea.com EDITORIAL

Community Insight FOOD & DRINK ENTERTAINMENT ENTERTAINMENT TRAVEL SPORTS

naheen madarbakus naheen@groovekorea.com anita mckay anita@groovekorea.com joe mcpherson food@groovekorea.com stewart mcfeat stewart@groovekorea.com chance dorland chancedorland@gmail.com eileen cahill eileen@groovekorea.com liam ring liam@groovekorea.com C opy Edi tor s

gil coombe, celeste maturen WRITE RS & C ONTRIB U TORS

ian Henderson, yuna lee, erica haldi, luke butcher johan stofberg, peter palma, hallie bradley, julia mellor naomi blenkinsop, dean crawford, simon mcenteggart marc raymond, douglas vautour, andy hume charlotte hammond, yoo jin oh, jordan redmond, robbie nguyen rob thom, natalia ler-davies, christine pickering, hana jin craig stuart, vanessa sae-hee burke, peter kim j. resto photography, 2015 gwangju universiade the busan sea festival, taebaek sunflower festival boryeong mud festival, daegu chimek festival makgeolli mamma and papas korea (mmpk), vlades jeonju national museum, chosun minhwa museum cj e&m, company f/hifi, bifan, fisu, beer o’clock, wolfhound sinbins, getty images, the premier league ART & DESIGN

ART DIRECTOR seong-eun park sam@groovekorea.com M ARKETING & AD MINISTRATION

CFO steve seung-jin lee MARKETING DIRECTOR peter chong ACCOUNTING yi-seul oh WEB & MOB ILE

himes design www.himesdesign.com finch professtional services www.finchproservices.com PU B LISH ER

sean choi sean@groovekorea.com

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All rights reserved Groove Korea Magazine 2015

MON

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W hat’ s O N WED

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2 3

AmedeoqModigliani: Legend of Montparnasse exhibition

@ Arts Center (Hangaram Art Museum) / Until October 4

Sandro Chia : Exquisite and Precious : Fantasy and Myths The Splendor of Korean Art artwork exhibition

@ LEEUM, Samsung Museum of Art / July 2 – September 13

9

8

13

@ Seoul Arts Center (Hangaram Art Museum) / July 3 – October 4

14

BASTILLE DAY

10

16

with FKCCI and French Embassy

@ Grand Ambassador Seoul / French food, music and all-you-can-drink cocktail.

Dark Places

16-26

23

22

Daegu Chimac Festival

@ Duryu Park / July 22 - 26

BiFan (Bucheon Int’l Fantastic Film Festival)

Laura Fygi & Jazz Park Big Band @ Sejong Center / July 22 & 23

12 www.groovekorea.com July 2015

@ July 16 - 26

Elmgreen & Dragset exhibition

30

31

@ PLATEAU near Seoul City Hall / July 23 – October 18

Hongdae LIVE CLUB day!

G am es i n J U LY KBO League game schedule

(schedules for Jamsil, Mokdong and Sajik only) J U LY

SAT

S UN

1-2

LG vs. Doosan

Samsung vs. Nexen

Nexen vs. Doosan

SK vs. Lotte

LG vs. Lotte

KIA vs. Nexen

Hanhwa vs. LG

NC vs. Nexen

Jamsil

Mokdong

J U LY

4

3-5

Jamsil

S aj ik

J U LY

7-9

Jamsil

Mokdong

J U LY

10-12

Jamsil

Mokdong

Doosan vs. Lotte Saji k

J U LY

14-16

11

KT vs. Doosan Jamsil

J U LY

18

All Star Game

SUW ON KT W IZ PA RK

J U LY

21-23 Sheraton Grande Walkerhill Bikini Pool Party

with ‘WE ARE LOUE’ and ‘Mitch Crown’

Nexen vs. LG

NC vs. Lotte

LG vs. KT

SK vs. Nexen

Hanhwa vs. Doosan

KT vs. Nexen

Jamsil

S aj ik

J U LY

24-26

Jamsil

Mokdong

J U LY

28-30

Jamsil

Mokdong

LG vs. Lotte Saji k

J U LY

18

KBO ALL STAR GAME 2 pm

24-26

31-2 Fernando Botero exhibition

@ Seoul Arts Center (Hangaram Art Museum) / July 11 – October 4

Samsung vs. Doosan Jamsil

K League schedule K League Challenge

(schedules for Jamsil, Suwon, Ansan, Anyang, Goyang and Bucheon games only)

2015

ANS AN M Val l ey Rock Festi va l

(schedules for Seoul, Suwon and Jeonju stadiums games only) J U LY

J U LY

1

K League Classic

Bucheon FC vs. Suwon FC Bucheon

1

FC Anyang vs. Gangwon FC Anyang FC Anyang vs. Suwon FC Suwon

J U LY

8

Suwon Bluewings vs. Ulsan Hyundai Suwon J U LY

J U LY

4

5

J U LY

11

8

@Songdo pentaport Park

J U LY

12

Seoul E-Land vs. Kyungnam FC Jamsil

J U LY

13

Bucheon FC vs. Gangwon FC Bucheon

J U LY

26

Jeonbuk FC vs. Gwang ju FC Jeonju Suwon Bluewings vs. Jeonnam FC Suwon

J U LY

Suwon FC vs. Daegu FC Suwon FC Anyang vs. Chung ju Hummel FC Anyang

Aug 7-9

FC Seoul vs. Gwang ju FC Seoul

J U LY

FC Anyang vs. Bucheon FC Bucheon Seoul E-Land vs. Goyang Hi FC Jamsil

Incheon PENTAPORT Rock Festival 2015

Jeonbuk FC vs. Busan Jeonju

FC Anyang vs. Ansan Police FC Anyang

11

FC Seoul vs. Pohang Steelers Seoul

J U LY

25

FC Seoul vs. Incheon Utd Seoul

J U LY

26

Jeonbuk FC vs. Suwon Bluewings Jeonju

N ati onal New s

All stories are culled with consent from Korea JoongAng Daily’s website and edited by Groove Korea for length and clarity.

The opinions expressed here do not necessarily represent those of Groove Korea. — Ed.

In association with July 2015 / www.koreajoongangdaily.com

Former Seoul prosecutor hurt

in knife attack

14 www.groovekorea.com July 2015

P

olice said June 18 that they were preparing to request a pre-trial arrest warrant for a man who wielded a knife against a former senior prosecutor.

Park Young-soo, who formerly headed the Seoul High Prosecutors’ Office, sustained a minor injury to his neck following a confrontation with the suspect shortly after midnight June 17 in front of his law office in Seocho District, southern Seoul.

The man in question, surnamed Lee, 64, who operates a construction firm, has been charged with attempted murder.

The former prosecutor, 63, received a cut on his neck about 10 centimeters (3.9 inches) long but is in stable condition, according to the police.

“Park could have been severely hurt; his life would have been at stake if the knife had hit his carotid artery,” said an investigator involved in the case.

Police said Lee waited for Park near the lawyer’s legal office for over three hours before spotting him on his way home.

The suspect turned himself in to police shortly after the attack at about 4 a.m. the following day.

According to authorities, Lee allegedly attacked Park due to his disgruntlement over a legal battle he lost a few years ago against the defendant, whom the former prosecutor represented in court.

Lee launched a suit against Jung Deok-jin, a mogul in Korea’s slot machine business, alleging that Jung had convinced witnesses from a separate court case the two were involved in to commit perjury.

During questioning, Lee said he believed that the court had favored Park’s side in the case and that the lawyer had used his connections as a former member of the prosecution.

He said his suspicions were bolstered after he saw Park testify on television as a witness in a parliamentary confirmation hearing earlier this month for newly appointed Prime Minister Hwang Kyo-ahn, which led him to believe that Park had received special treatment in his defense of Jung due to Park’s reputation in the legal community.

Park’s associates have refuted suspicions that he received any special favors, however, and said that Lee had also hired a lawyer with a prosecutorial background for his case.

“Lee didn’t even appeal his case after the defendant [Jung] was not found guilty,” said one associate, who spoke on the condition of anonymity.

Sources close to Park said that while he is expected to make a full recovery, the attack was traumatizing for him, and the lawyer has declined visitors to his hospital room.

The Korean Bar Association condemned the incident, calling it an act of terror.

“An act that attempts personal revenge against a lawyer from the other side in a legal case is a grave challenge to the foundation of the judiciary system,” the association said in a statement.

Park previously served in the Kim Dae-jung administration as the presidential secretary for inspection and audit and was appointed in 2007 as chief prosecutor at the Seoul High Prosecutors’ Office.

He retired in 2009.

Professor slammed over test’s content

A

professor at Seoul’s Hongik University has come under fire for writing exam questions that appear to demean Korea’s late Presidents Kim Dae-jung and Roh Moo-hyun.

The university’s student council, along with the support of 10 other Hongik University student organizations, released a statement June 11 demanding an honest, formal apology from the professor as well as his resignation from the institute.

According to the statement, the final exam on June 9 for American Contract Law, which the professor outlined and wrote in English, contained questions that apparently ridiculed the two former presidents.

“Roh was 17 years old and his I.Q of 69,” read the text for one of the exam questions, which were not grammatically sound.

“He suffered brain defective resulted from his jumping from Owl of Rock when he was six.”

Not only did the character in the exam question share the same name with late President Roh, but Owl Rock was where the late president fell to his death in 2009.

Another question states: “Dae-Jung Deadbeat open a small restaurant, ‘Black Mountain Isle’ to sell raja-kenojei (‘hang-o’) food.”

In this case, issue was taken with the use of the term “deadbeat,” which refers to an idle, incompetent individual, to describe a character that shared the same name with the late Kim. Black Mountain Isle, or Heuksan Island in Sinan County, South Jeolla, is the former president’s hometown, and the food mentioned in the question is a local delicacy on the island.

“Instead of evading [the issue] or making excuses, the professor must take responsibility for his remarks,” the council’s statement said. “School authorities must reprimand him and adopt preventive measures so this [sort of incident] does not happen again.”

According to the student council, in its third meeting with the professor to address the controversy, he maintained that he had not put the questions on the exam with the intention of debasing the former president.

“When I was lecturing, I was just giving examples,” he was quoted as saying. “The two presidents aren’t gods; it’s reasonable that they can receive historical criticism.”

The professor did not respond to multiple requests for comment.

Keimyung University Dongsan Medical Center

계명대학교 동산의료원

116 years of history The first hospital in Daegu Established in 1899 by an American medical missionary Practicing domestic and international medical volunteer activities for over a Century. ● Leading hospital in attraction of international patients Best Institute Award for attracting International Patients from the Korean Ministry of Health and Welfare in 2010 ● Leading Medical Center in daegu medical tourism ● Specialized Medical Centers : Cardiovascular Center, Cerebrovascular Center, Cancer Center, Digestive System Center, Sleep Center, Obesity and metabolic Surgery Center.

New hospital under construction

Specialized International Healthcare Center ● Affiliated with International SOS ● Language services in English, Chinese, Japanese, and Russian ● Convenient and professional service with the following international insurance companies for direct billing system : Tricare Overseas Program, AETNA International, BlueCross Blueshield,CIGNA International, Foreign Service Benefit Plan, GeoBlue

56 Dalseong-Ro, Jung-Gu, Daegu TEL 053-250-7303 www.dsmc.or.kr

N ati onal New s

In association with

North sentences two Southerners to hard labor

N

orth Korea sentenced two South Koreans June 23 to life in prison with hard labor for supposedly being spies for the United States and South Korea. It has refused demands from South Korea that the two men be released along with two other South Koreans in captivity.

According to the state-run Korean Central News Agency (KCNA), the North’s Supreme Court found Kim Kuk-gi and Choe Chun-gil guilty of “taking active part in state-sponsored political terrorism” guided by “hostility” from the U.S. and South Korea.

The court cited criminal activities allegedly committed by the defendants including “gathering of information on the supreme leadership of the DPRK and its party, state and military secrets and situation, and offering them to South Korea’s intelligence service.” DPRK is an acronym for North Korea’s official name, the Democratic People’s Republic of Korea.

The KCNA said the prosecution requested capital punishment for the two, arguing they had committed “hideous state-sponsored terrorism against the dignified supreme leadership of the DPRK.” But their state-designated lawyer asked the court to commute the sentence to hard labor so that they could “repent” for their wrongdoing, the state-controlled media said.

North Korea pulls out of Gwangju games, blames UN office

16 www.groovekorea.com July 2015

N

orth Korea cancelled an earlier plan to participate in the upcoming Gwangju Summer Universiade in protest of the opening of a Seoul office by the UN human rights high commissioner, the Universiade organizing committee said June 22.

Pyongyang’s notification to the organizing committee of the event, scheduled to run from July 3 to July 14, came on June 19 via email, according to Kim Yoon-suk, the committee’s secretary general.

“The North said that it could not take part in the event for political reasons because of the opening of the UN human rights office

A day after the ruling, North Korea released a hwan, a North Korean studies professor at Dongthree-minute clip on the Chinese video sharing guk University, told the Korea JoongAng Daily. site Youku showing the sentencing. In the video, “The North showed its intention to further add Kim and Choe accepted all charges of espionage pressure on the South Korean government by rewith the latter overwhelmed with emotion and vealing details of the trial when it could have just stated the sentence briefly.” crying.

On the possibility of the UN office having a neg“I apologize to the government of North Korea and its people,” said Choe, standing before two ative impact on inter-Korean relations, Koh said it depends on the scope of activities it will carry guards in military uniforms.

The North’s move is expected to further strain out and whether they will be done publicly or not.

While the two South Koreans were sentenced to already miserable bilateral ties.

There were hopes earlier that the frozen ties life with hard labor, two other South Koreans are could see some thaw as the countries mark the being held in Pyongyang without being indicted 15th anniversary of the first South-North summit for crimes. Pyongyang has held Christian misas well as the 70th anniversary of Korea’s liber- sionary Kim Jung-wook and Joo Won-moon, a 21ation from Japan’s occupation in 1945. But no year old enrolled at New York University.

Joo said in a May interview with CNN that he progress has been seen so far this year. The two sides failed to host a commemoration for the 15th entered the reclusive state illegally in hopes that anniversary of the joint declaration from the 2000 he “could have a good effect in the relationship.”

While calling the North’s ruling a violation of summit, which paved the way for inter-Korean cooperation and an easing of decades of tensions international norms and basic human rights, the South Korean government said June 24 it was on the peninsula.

The fact that the ruling was handed down on the working with various international governments same day the UN opened a field office in Seoul and groups to secure the release of all four South to monitor human rights violations in the North, Korean citizens.

Lim Byeong-cheol, spokesman of the Unificamost notably its operation of political prisons that are estimated to house up to 200,000 inmates, tion Ministry, said that although he could not resparked speculation that it was an act of retribu- veal whom the government has been consulting due to “diplomatic sensitivity,” the government tion by the North for the launch.

“The sentencing can be construed as its response has been in talks with various international partto the UN field office opening in Seoul,” Koh Yu- ners.

in Seoul,” said Kim during a press briefing in UN would set up a field office exclusively dedicated to collecting evidence of state-orchestratGwangju.

Speculation that the North may boycott the ed torture, imprisonment and executions in the event arose after it failed to meet the registra- North has raised the ire of Pyongyang. tion deadline on June 15. Some thought the In March, the North threatened that the site North had become hesitant because of the on- of the UN office would be the “first target of retgoing outbreak of Middle East respiratory syn- ribution” through the state-run Korean Central News Agency. drome (MERS).

The North, however, did not mention MERS Pyongyang also branded defectors who gave in its email but blamed the UN human rights testimony of suffering inside prison camps as “human scum.” field office for its change in plans.

In March, Pyongyang said it would send a While the North blamed the UN for its delegation of 75 athletes and 33 coaches and change of mind over participating in the games, officials to take part in the 12-day event.

Kim Keun-sik, professor of North Korean StudNorth Korea’s backtracking is a letdown for ies at Kyungnam University, told the Korea the government, which hoped its participation JoongAng Daily that it may have complained could serve as an informal catalyst for easing about the UN office as “a cover to hide its fears about its delegations bringing MERS across the tensions on the peninsula.

In October, North Korean leader Kim Jong- border into the North,” which lacks sufficient un sent three top officials to the Incheon Asian medical and quarantine systems.

“The opening of the UN field office will not Games closing ceremony to meet with senior presidential officials, including security adviser significantly affect inter-Korean relations as Pyongyang already issued a statement conKim Kwan-jin.

Their appearance was momentarily inter- demning the UN last year for its passage of a preted as a breakthrough in bilateral ties, which resolution on human rights violations in North deteriorated afterwards. News reports that the Korea,” said Kim.

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

C OMMUNITY

C omm u nit y Ch es t

The

Alternative

Festival

Selection

Music not your thing?

It’s not the only way to enjoy an outdoor festival this summer

18

Story by Hallie Bradley / photos courtesy of The Busan Sea Festival, Taebaek Sunflower Festival, Boryeong Mud Festival

F

or many, the summer signals an end to gloomy evenings and presents an open invitation to outdoor activity. Yes, it’s time to rummage through that wardrobe, dig out those brightly colored tank tops and seasonal shorts and head outdoors. Finally, balconies have been opened up for many to enjoy a huge helping of cold drinks and shelter from the sweltering heat. The outdoors also means a plethora of summer festivals are here too and if music isn’t your thing, then there’s still something to enjoy. This selection of alternative festivals caters to anyone from the nature lover to the chicken and beer enthusiast so find the one that is just right for whatever summer fun you’re into.

C OMMUNI TY

Boryeong Mud Festival -----------------------Best for Mud Fun In The Sun When July 17 ~ 26, 2015 Where Daecheon Beach, Boryeong, Chungcheongnam-do Website www.mudfestival.or.kr

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

-----------------------For some serious mud fun in the sun, everyone knows about the Boryeong Mud Festival. Now in its 18th year, the Mudfest has become one of the biggest events of the summer season. With 136 kilometers of coastline in Boryeong supplying seamud rich in minerals, germanium, natrium, magnesium and other vitamins, there is no shortage of the brown stuff that is said to aid in skin beauty. Locals believe the mud vitalizes skin elasticity, helps blood circulation, cleans out the pores and detoxifies among many other great benefits. However, while the main events of the fest originally started due to the purported benefits of a good soak in the murky stuff in the mud-rich area of Boryeong, it’s now become more infamous among visitors for the amount of mud-slinging, sliding, throwing and drenching opportunities that the festival brings. Although the mud is the biggest draw for this event, everything from a mud pit, slides covered in mud and even a mud jail keep visitors occupied while truly make that skin glow. There is also a rather good size beach on site to make the cleaning up part just as fun. Take a dip in the sea, enjoy the summer sun and take in some of the performances and concerts that are provided. The trip to Boryeong would make for a good weekend away with around 329 million visitors in 2014 and that number is sure to increase this year. Don’t be left out - get ready for a messy good time!

- Festival Hint ------------------Remember to put on sun screen because although you’ll be covered in mud, the sun can still penetrate to your skin and many people end up leaving the fest with some pretty rad sunburns (alas, thinking the mud was somehow protective). Don’t let the healthy skin glow you’ll surely gain from the massive mud fun be covered by a bright red layer of healing skin.

Taebaek Sunflower Festival -----------------------Best for Flower Power For The Nature Lover When July 24 ~ August 16, 2015 Where Taebaek, Gangwon-do Website www.sunflowerfestival.co.kr

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- Festival Hint --------places to enjoy the natural beauty of the area include the Alpine Botanical Garden, the Yongyeon Cave and numerous mountain trails. Take a weekend trip to Taebaek this summer and really embrace the simple and laid-back allure of country life amid a field of sunflowers.

July 2015 www.groovekorea.com 19

If you prefer some good clean fun and natural beauty, then the Taebaek Sunflower Festival might be just up your alley. Located in the laid back village of Guwau in Hwangyeon-dong, Taebaek is host to a 41 acre sunflower farm. Housing around 300 varieties of sunflowers and wildflowers, take a leisurely walk around the grounds in a vast land of tranquility and simply take in the fresh air around Taebaek.

Visitors can also enjoy classical music concerts in the evenings, try different foods and juices made from the sunflower seeds and flowers or peruse the market to purchase some of the naturally made products. While the summer away amid the big yellow bloomers that can’t help but make people smile and watch as, by day, the sunflowers light up the horizon for miles. By night, it’s a different story as there is a weekly bonfire on Saturdays and accompanying fireside concerts that give people ample time to gaze at the stars twinkling overhead while embracing a rare opportunity to experience the natural beauty of Korean summers.

C OMMUNI TY Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

Pohang International Fireworks Festival -----------------------Best for Bright Lights In The Night When July 24 ~ August 16, 2015 Where Yeongildae Beach, Pohang, Gyeongsangbuk-do Website http://piff.ipohang.org

-----------------------Pohang is known as the “City of Light and Fire” and their festival brings both of those things together in one beautiful location. Imagine sitting on a beach lounging with friends, having a swim and just enjoying the summer rays and breeze all day long. If a break is needed from the beach, the festival also organizes street performers, caricaturists, and a street parade to entertain visitors during the day. As night falls, what better way to wrap up that great day by returning to the beach at sunset?

Evening entertainment sees fireworks (or ‘fire flowers’ as they are more affectionately called by Koreans) fill the dark sky above with an amazing array of colors. The evening is completed with a sparkler in hand as everyone knows that no great trip to a beach in Korea can end without sparklers. Head to Pohang for fun in the sun and some light at night!

- Festival Hint ---------------To make it a full weekend in Pohang, enjoy the delights at the Jukdo Traditional Market which is known for seafood in the city center. Homigot is also the site where thousands head to welcome in the New Year sunrise each year and nearby Bogyeongsa, a beautiful Buddhist temple at the foot of Naeyeon Mountain, can be visited alongside the breathtaking Yeonsan waterfall. Plan your festival weekend away now!

Busan Sea Festival ---------------------Best for Let’s See The Sea With Glee When August 1 ~ 8, 2015 Where Haeundae, Gwangalli, Songdo and Songjeong Beach, Busan Website www.seafestival.co.kr

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In its 20th year, the Busan Sea Festival will once again take over the port city, bringing together some 30 different events and mini festivals to celebrate all things cultural. With one street party after another, this will be one week that the city of Busan will not sleep. Some bigger highlights include the Busan International Rock Festival and the Busan International Dance Festival which maintain a free of charge two-day festival menu full of great acts year after year for audiences of around 10,000. The Korean Sea Literature Festival and the Water Carnival also provide a mixture of sporting, music and beach events for visitors of all ages. Enter one of the windsurfing, volleyball or swimming tournaments aimed at the sports lover or enjoy a free lesson in rafting, canoeing or other water activities for those that wish they were more sports-able.

- Festival Hint -------------There is something for everyone at the main locations of Haeundae Beach, Gwangalli Beach, Songdo Beach to Songjeong Beach and the Samnak Ecological Park among many other venues. Head down to Busan and you’ll surely be able to find something you’re interested in to have additional fun on a day at the beach.

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Korean Language Program Mon/Weds and Tues/ Thurs Afternoon and Evening classes Cost: Free (except textbook) Itaewon Global Village Center, 5f Hannam Building, 737-37 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-Gu, Seoul 140-893

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EVERY SAT

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04 Daegu Chicken and Beer Festival ---------------------Best for The Chimaek Maniac When July 22 ~ 26, 2015 Where Duryu Park, Dalseo-gu, Daegu Website www.chimac.kr

---------------------Ask anyone what they’re favorite chicken abode is and they’re sure to have an opinion. Going out for some chicken and beer isn’t just a nonchalant activity in Korea. From fried to broiled, baked and sauced-up, there are numerous choices to be made after you’ve decided which place is the best.

The people of Daegu have decided that chimaek (chicken and maekju) is something to celebrate and the 620,000 people that attended in 2014 agreed.

This year the festival promoters are going to amp things up by adding a rock music and industrial culture festival to the mix. The festival mixes a youthful energy with all things chicken to offer a unique theme. Everything from chicken and beer tasting, chicken and beer sculptures and a chicken trick art zone will be open for ample enjoyment of all things chicken and beer.

Why shouldn’t the simpler things in life be celebrated?

- Festival Hint -------------Also make a stop at the Daegu Yangnyeongsi Oriental Medicine Market, the largest in the country, the Mabijeong Mural Village for a walk along little alleys with painted walls and don’t miss out on the Dalseong Dodongseowon Confucian Academy for some Korean history as well.

KISS Salsa Classes 7.30pm-8.30pm (beginner) 8.30pm-9.30pm (intermediate) Cost: 10,000 won non-band nights/ 15,000 won band nights SAMOS, Yonsero-5-dakil 22-3, 3rd floor, Chang Cheon-dong Sodemun-gu, Seoul

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Stitch n Bitch Meet 2.30pm / Cost: Free De Lambre Coffee Shop Jongno-gu Jongno 2-ga 75-8

Meditation 3.00pm-5.00pm / Cost: Free Yeoksam Global Village Center 16, Yeoksam-ro 7-gil, Gangnam-Gu, Seoul

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From July 6

Tax Counselling 9.30am-12.00pm / Cost: Free Yeoksam Global Village Center 16, Yeoksam-ro 7-gil, Gangnam-Gu, Seoul

Chinese Medicine Infusions 1.00pm-4.00pm Cost: KRW 45,000 Susubori Academy, Jinyang Building, 1903-3 Chungjeongno 2-ga, Seodaemun gu

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Korean Language Program Mon/Weds and Tues/ Thurs Afternoon and Evening classes Cost: Free (except textbook) Yeoksam Global Village Center 16, Yeoksam-ro 7-gil, Gangnam-Gu, Seoul THU

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Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

MMPK Meeting 7pm / Cost: KRW 10, 000 Please check the website for the location www.mmpkorea.wordpress.com

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From July

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Intro to Brewing Makgeolli 1.00pm-4.00pm / Cost: KRW 45,000 Susubori Academy, Jinyang Building, 1903-3 Chungjeongno 2-ga, Seodaemun gu

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July 2015 www.groovekorea.com 21

Boryeong Mud Festival Check website for activities schedule Cost: Free Daecheon Beach, Boryeong, Chuncheongnam-do www.mudfestival.co.kr

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

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Neig hb or hood Wat c h

Makgeolli Magic

Julia Mellor gives a masterclass in one of Korea’s most popular drinks

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Story by Julia Mellor / Photos by Makgeolli Mamas and Papas Korea

aced with a choice between a decent bottle of red, an ice cold pint of craft beer or a bottle of makgeolli, few people would fight tooth and nail in order to get to the latter. However there is an organization based here in Seoul that would not only choose the makgeolli, but would then ask for extra bottles.

Makgeolli Mamas & Papas Korea (affectionately referred to as MMPK) is an organization built on a community of people searching out and sharing knowledge about the traditional Korean alcohol and its industry. The story begins in 2012 when co-founders Monica Kluge (since repatriated to Canada) and I realized there was a complete vacuum of English information when it came to traditional Korean alcohol. We just wanted to know more. With only a few options available to learn that information, we embarked on a journey of self-discovery in the most enjoyable way, by putting out the call for like-minded people to taste, record and explore the industry as much as possible. This was the beginning of regular meet-ups in makgeolli bars to inform and share opinions about what we had learned, when we had learned it and most importantly, where we could find it.

Soon after, MMPK developed a website full of reviews and a comprehensive directory to include where to find makgeolli bars around the country for English speakers. Since then, we have continued to make contacts and relationships with bar owners, brewers and industry professionals who have imparted invaluable knowledge about all things related to this niche Korean alcohol. What unfolded before our eyes

was an entire world we had no idea existed and which, until now, had remained virtually inaccessible to the average expat. Our role became clear: this was a calamity that we had a great responsibility to rectify. MMPK would be the gateway for English speakers to learn, explore and experience traditional Korean alcohol.

When MMPK was born, the Korean alcohol industry itself was also undergoing a re-birth.

Throughout the past century, it has struggled through the Japanese occupation, the destruction of war, and a crippling rice brewing ban which lasted from the 1960s right up until the

Our passion for Korean alcohol has become all-consuming, and we now see the vital role that expats and non-Koreans can play in the development of the industry. late 20th Century. During this period brewers were forced to seek alternative practices, producing makgeolli with starches such as wheat flour and adding artificial sweeteners like aspartame. These practices have carried over into today’s market, and it has only been in the last ten years or so that it has seen a slow return toward hand crafted Korean alcohol. In fact, makgeolli’s reputation as a farmer’s drink that comes with a killer hangover has also begun to wane. Small scale brewers are learning techniques from lost recipes and perfecting their product without the need for added sweeten-

ers, as they ultimately strive to revive the tastes of makgeolli past.

MMPK has also assumed a role to connect craft brewers to their expat consumers, holding its first large scale event last January. Five of the industry’s top craft brewers that brew Samyangchoon, Mi-In, Domundaejak, Cheonbihyang, and Lee Sang Heon Takju attended a ‘Meet the Brewer’ event where they could greet like-minded expat and Korean enthusiasts of makgeolli. Over fifty eager visitors came to try the brews and enjoyed the evening celebrating with live music, specialty food including a makgeolli based pizza dough and alcoholic yoghurt dessert, and to share their appreciation of the drink between the brewers and a thirsty expat market.

The group then saw an opportunity to offer English speaking tours for enthusiasts to visit some of the industry’s breweries. Baesangmyeon Brewery’s Neurin Maeul makgeolli is one such inspiring leader, being a quality brand, committed to tradition, and attention to detail as one of the largest national distributors.

MMPK offers an independently designed, comprehensive English tour of their Sansawon brewery and museum which includes a historical and cultural lecture of the site and an insight into the scientific context of Korean alcohol, for those interested in learning more about the makgeolli brewing puzzle.

Of course, one of the best ways to gain a truly deep appreciation of Korean alcohol is by trying your hand at brewing it yourself.

The method is a charming aspect of the drink which uses a unique single fermentation process. In contrast to beer, brewing makgeolli is much more accessible to first time brewers as

MMPK Every three weeks on Saturday evenings 7pm – 9:30pm www.mmpkorea.wordpress.com Locations Vary (Contact MMPK for details) mmpkorea@gmail.com Makgeolli Makers www.facebook.com/makgeollimakers?fref=ts makgeollimakers@gmail.com

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SUMMER CAMP

Half Day Summer Camp (6-9 year olds) 9.30am-12.30pm / Cost: KRW 180,000 (nonrefundable registration fee for 2 weeks camp) Seorae Global Village Center 3rd floor, Jeon Building, Seorae-ro 28, Seocho-gu, Seoul

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K-Food Cooking Class: Ugeoji Gamjatang and Dubu Jeon 10.30am–12.30pm / Cost: KRW 10,000 Ewha Women’s University.

(Sign up with Yeoksam Global Village) yeoksam@sba.seoul.kr FRI

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Taebaek Sunflower Festival Check website for activities schedule Cost: Free Taebaek, Gangwon-do www.sunflowerfestival.co.kr

Volunteering at St Mary’s Hospital 10.00am-12.00pm / Cost: Free Yeoksam Global Village Center 16, Yeoksam-ro 7-gil, Gangnam-Gu, Seoul

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Intro to Tasting Makgeolli 1.00pm-4.00pm / Cost: KRW 45,000 Susubori Academy, Jinyang Building, 1903-3 Chungjeongno 2-ga, Seodaemun gu

Taekwondo Class 4.00pm-6.00pm / Cost: Free Yeoksam Global Village Center 16, Yeoksam-ro 7-gil, Gangnam-Gu, Seoul

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Volunteering

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Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

MORE INFO For Sansawon Brewery Tours, brewing classes or any other events offered

by MMPK, please check our website for more details. We also recommend catching up with us on Facebook at our page and group for up to date details on events and discoveries.

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it doesn’t necessarily require specialized equipment and can be brewed with relative ease in any kitchen.

For interested brewers, MMPK has teamed up with their sister consultancy and educational organization, Makgeolli Makers to offer guidance in crafting your own beverage. Dedicated to teaching and sharing knowledge about brewing the traditional Korean alcohol, Makgeolli Makers director, Becca Baldwin, shares her personally designed courses behind the Korean brewing practices, encapsulating her past five years of studying. The course at Susubori Brewing Academy provides knowledge in makgeolli brewing theory and techniques, to offer students the skills to tackle any recipe from historical literature and the expertise to experiment with ingredients and ratios to create novel recipes. The course is the first and only one of its kind available in English, and is a unique opportunity for expats to learn from western instructors dedicated to Korean traditional alcohol. The Introduction to Brewing classes held at Susubori several times a year also serve as the pre-requisite for joining the Intermediate rice technique classes.

Outside of the classroom, the Susubori Brewers Club is a Facebook group where all learners can seek advice, share their experiments and get advice on their projects directly from Becca and other qualified brewers. Additionally, for enthusiastic brewers, the Susubori Academy also hold an annual Expat Makgeolli Brewing Competition, which is open to anyone interested in putting their skills to the test. Evaluated by both a public vote, as well as by makgeolli industry professionals, the contest allows expat brewers to get valuable feedback about their brewing endeavors.

Whether a beginner, enthusiast, amateur or expert, it’s easy to become part of the makgeolli community. Regular MMPK bar meetings happen every three weeks, and are open to anyone who pre-registers within the10-15 people bar limit. Our passion for Korean alcohol has become all-consuming, and we now see the vital role that expats and non-Koreans can play in the development of the industry., An advantage of looking at Makgeolli and other alcohols from an international perspective is that they can been viewed with a fresh eye, free of the historical and cultural bias that often comes with it, and can be appreciated without being judged as a ‘farmer’s’ or ‘cheap’ drink. In turn, such demand means that this quality product can only grow.

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The Celadon Culture Festival From 9am / Cost: Various programs.

Please check website Gangjin Celadon Ware Museum 111 Tamjin-ro, Gangjin-eup, Gangjin-gun, Jeollanam-do www.gangjin.go.kr

RACE

Race Against Traffick (Final Registration) See website for details / Cost: KRW150,000 Join the race from Busan to Seoul www.RATK.org for Ride Info RATKKorea@gmail.com

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Sansawon Brewery Tours By appointment www.mmpkorea.wordpress.com Pocheon (Contact SBT for details) mmpkorea@gmail.com July 2015 www.groovekorea.com 23

Susubori Brewing Academy (SBT) English program classes are Sundays 1pm – 4pm www.facebook.com/groups/susubori.makgeolli.alums/ Seoul, Seodaemungu, Chungjeongno2ga 1903-3 Jinyang building Subway: Chungjeongno Station (Line 2 and 5, exit 7) mmpkorea@gmail.com

Story and photos by Peter Palma

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

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Riding Against Traffick Peter Palma talks about the annual ride of his life between Busan and Seoul to help stop human trafficking in Korea.

THE BACKGROUND:

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HUMAN TRAFFICKING Peter Palma has lived in Incheon for five years and during that time, has experienced a different side to Korea. When he began pastoring 4 years ago at the now renamed Restoration Community Church, the 15 minute walk through the city to his church would result in passing all kinds of love motels, sketchy norae clubs, and other sex-related businesses. The car windows were littered with calling cards for prostitutes, which would then later litter the streets themselves. Coincidentally, Palma happened to enroll in an ethics course at Torch Trinity Graduate University in Seoul, and was assigned the topic of Sex Trafficking for a group presentation. As he began to research, Palma was shocked by what he found. He read stories of girls from the Philippines being tricked into thinking they would work as singers at clubs, who would have their plans drastically change as they arrived in Korea, being forced into selling drinks as “juicy girls.” If they didn’t meet their quota they would be forced to prostitute themselves. And this is not the only case. Other articles tell of young mothers from Central Asia promised jobs in cell phone factories, only to be forced into prostitution upon their arrival here. Often, Korean women are trafficked to the US because of debt.

Palma found that the more he read, the more troubled he became. South Korea is a destination country for women trafficked from the Philippines, Thailand, Central Asia and Russia among other countries. More disturbingly, Korean women are trafficked to become prostitutes in Japan, Australia, and the US in the greatest numbers, more than women from any other country. This begs the question: How can we help?

It was one Sunday morning when Palma was walking his familiar route to church that things started to change. He passed a norae club with a sign showing that women trafficked from Vietnam worked there.

Palma recalls, “So I’m walking to my church to tell people how much Jesus loves them, and I’m passing by establishments where people are enslaved. The dissonance in my heart was so incredible, I began to feel that I could not authentically call people to follow Jesus if I continued to walk by and do nothing.”

It was a few months later that he came across a youtube video of a fundraising bike trip across America. Palma thought, “Hey, we could do that!” and the idea was conceived for a ride between Busan and Seoul to raise money for groups that are involved in the fight against human trafficking.

THE ORGANIZATION:

THE RIDE AGAINST TRAFFICK Palma didn’t know anything about cycling and didn’t even own a bike.

But in May 2012, he purchased his first bike for 60,000 won and the Ride Against Traffick (RATK) was born. Initially planning to ride with some friends, the summer was spent training and the first ride took place in August 2012. Twelve riders from four different churches took to the 4 Rivers Cycle Path (which had just opened) to cycle from Seoul to Busan. Considered crazy, the first year saw the group ride in monsoon rains for nearly the whole week. Despite the mishaps and challenges, the group reached Busan after six days and raised about 12 million won for the organization’s designated charities. Collectively, RATK events have now raised over 100 million won – an impressive figure for such a young organization.

Now in its third year, a leadership team consisting five of the original 12 members meet throughout the year to plan events. Other bike rides have taken place over the last three years: In 2013, RATK attracted over 600 cyclists to raise 25 million won in a one-day cycling event, and in 2014, a five-day bike ride for beginners and intermediate riders was organized alongside a three-day serious ride for advanced bikers. Each and every event shares the goal of changing Korea by inspiring people to help end human trafficking and to support care services for every orphan in the nation, who are among those most vulnerable to being trafficked.

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The ride follows the 4 Rivers Cycle Path from Busan to Seoul with distances between 100 km and 140 km or an average of 125 km per day.

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

Most participants are expats or Koreans who care about human trafficking and want to engage with the issue through cycling.

THE CHARITIES:

THE EVENT:

RIDING AGAINST TRAFFICK

RATK has chosen Hope Be Restored (an NGO that fights human trafficking in Korea), House of Hope (a recovery center for trafficking victims and women who are pregnant and have no one to help them), and the Oak Tree Project as the main benefactors of their charity rides.

Money raised each year is divided and the charities receive 50% of the total proceeds.

Hope Be Restored has used the funds in support of House of Hope, to cover operation costs for the recovery center. Oak Tree Project uses their allocation to fund scholarships for orphans. Palma comments how orphans in Korea have it so tough and often work full-time while they study at university. This can often lead to girls only getting jobs at shady establishments. The director of Oak Tree Project, John-Michael Becker, recently wrote about an orphan who works for an NGO in Korea who had shared that all her friends are either dead or had been forced into prostitution. Every scholarship that RATK funds means an orphan can make it through college and will have a mentor throughout the journey.

Last year, RATK helped Oak Tree Project offer five scholarships – that means five lives that will forever be changed.

MORE INFO To join the Ride Against Traffick, please register through the RATK website by August 1st. The organization also has a Facebook group to support and encourage new and returning participants.

September 25th – September 30th, 2015 Busan to Seoul Transport: Provided from Seoul to Busan www.RATK.org for ride info Equipment: Check out www.ratk.org FAQ for specific information Ride Against Traffick RATKKorea@gmail.com KRW 150,000 (Register by August 1st)

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This year’s Ride Against Traffick takes place from Busan to Seoul, riding a total of 480 km over a period of six days. Most participants are expats or Koreans who care about human trafficking and want to engage with the issue through cycling. Some people are serious cyclists and invest in a quality bicycle, especially for the ride. Others come along for part of the way and provide moral support for the cyclists. The ride follows the 4 Rivers Cycle Path from Busan to Seoul with daily distances averaging 125 km per day.

In addition to raising money for charities, the ride provides opportunities to see the breathtaking beauty of Korea and travel with a group across the country for a week. The participation fee includes initial transportation from Seoul to Busan, shared accommodation each night, most meals and snacks, a great support crew, and a team jersey/shirt.

In preparation for the ride, group training rides take place one or two times during the week. Participants should buy a decent hybrid or road bike and be willing to put the training in prior to the ride. Palma suggests that people who cycle 20-30 km four or five times a week, and do a long ride on the weekend with some hills thrown in, should be able to complete the ride. Without committed training, he says, it’s pretty tough.

During the actual ride, support vehicles drive alongside the group to carry the supplies and provide refreshment stations throughout the day.

Cyclists ride in different groups according to ability, with each one having a designated leader to navigate and oversee their general safety. If the ride becomes too difficult, cyclists get picked up by a support vehicle and are taken to the RATK destination for the night.

Palma does point out that this is an all-volunteer program and is not a polished tour. Imagine a group of friends cycling and trying to make a difference in the nation. Although participants of all experience are encouraged to join, Palma also reminds those considering the ride that it is physically strenuous and requires great stamina, and that food and accommodation will be basic. However, this can also be an adventure of a lifetime, a chance to meet new people and an incredible personal, physical challenge.

HOPE BE RESTORED, HOUSE OF HOPE and OAK TREE PROJECT

From Coast

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

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To Coast

Head out of the city for a historical and cultural experience in any part of the country Story by Naomi Blenkinsop / photos courtesy of Jeonju National Museum, Chosun Minhwa Museum

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Jeonju National Museum

lanning outdoor summer activities usually leads us to predictable choices in Korea: festival, beach or hiking options are aplenty.

But what about museum hopping? Museums typically focus on themes of history, culture and art, but in South Korea, the collections can take on a whole new meaning with almost any theme imaginable on offer.

From kimchi to Pinocchio or even teddy bears, there is a museum for every taste, however niche it may be. There are over 500 museums around this small country, with many located in Seoul or Jeju Island (which is renowned for its own strange and eccentric selection of museums). However, about 300 museums are scattered throughout the peninsula and although not as unconventional as the capital’s offerings, they do offer visitors a unique taste of Korea’s regional history and culture, from coast to coast. Learn from the historic and cultural collections and carefully designed exhibitions that make up some fascinating museum choices around the country. Get out this summer and enjoy an extremely educational and entertaining afternoon.

In the north, Gangwondo, is a Korean province boasting stunning landscapes and sights such as the renowned Seorak mountains and the famous fishing town of Sokcho. The area is perfect to unravel any artistic roots, as pre-

sented at the Minhwa Chosun Museum in Yeongwol. “Minhwa” means folk paintings and “Chosun” refers to the 500 year Joseon dynasty which lasted from 1392 to 1910. This museum includes a permanent display of roughly 3000 paintings from the Joseon era, exhibiting contemporary folk paintings and furniture from the period. Keeping up with modern times, the museum also recently added a 4D center where you can watch a reenactment of a Chinese literary classic “The Battle of Red Cliffs”

the past submissions displayed in the special exhibition room as a prize.

Heading west, the Jeonju National Museum is located in Jeollabuk Province’s Jeonju city. In contrast to the National Museum of Korea’s historical, cultural and artistic focus, the Jeonju National Museum presents the historical and cultural heritage of the local Jeollobuk Province. On the first floor, the Ancient Culture rooms offer archaeological history of Jeollobuk displaying relics that date all the way back to the Bronze and Iron Age. Up on the second floor, the Fine Arts room has Buddhist and ceramic art, and the History room displays furniture and daily objects made from wood and Korean paper to offer a glimpse into how these people lived long ago. The Seokjeon Memorial room, dedicated to renowned calligrapher Seokjeon Hwang Uk, contains over 5000 works including example handwriting, his family relics, ancient books and letters. A leisurely exit stroll through the Outdoor Exhibition Area provides a final tour of ancient tombs, Buddhist stone lanterns and a standing stone Buddha with stonework that will amaze.

Next, down South in Jeollanam Province is an area renowned for its untouched natural beauty and famous sites such as the Boseong Green Tea Fields. This region has a rich history dating back through the Shilla period to the early Koryo Period (between the 10th and 14th century). More notably the city of Gangjin, is also very well known for its production

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Museums typically focus on themes of history, culture and art, but in South Korea, the collections can take on a whole new meaning with almost any theme imaginable on offer. or go virtual paragliding through the Wolchul Mountains. For a taste of an erotic theme, an adult-only room houses several ‘chunhwa’ or more obscene paintings from the collection.

For those creative enough to make their own artwork, a designated program hall instructs visitors on how to make their own folk paintings on wooden plates. These designs are highly encouraged, with even a folk painting competition held every September and many of

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MORE INFO: Jeonju National Museum Ssukgogae-ro 249, Wansan-gu, Jeonju-si, Jeollabuk-do, Korea http://jeonju.museum.go.kr 63-223-5651 ext.2 9:00am-6:00pm (Tuesday to Friday), 9:00am-7:00pm (Saturday, Sunday) 9:00am-9:00pm (Saturday, March to October) Free Local Bus: 9,31,49,62, 354, 554, 559, 684, 685, 814 Taxi: 30 minutes from Jeonju Station MORE INFO: Gangjin Celadon Ware Museum 111 Tamjin-ro, Gangjin-eup, Gangjin-gun, Jeollanam-do http://gangjin.go.kr 082-61-430-3114 9:00am-6:00pm (March to October) 9:00am-5:00pm (November to February) Children aged 7 to 12: 400 won, Teenager (13 to 20) : KRW 500 Adult (21 to 64): KRW 1000 Bus: Take the local bus towards Maryang in Gangjin-eup. Get off at Sadang-ri, Daegu-myeon. (First bus: 6:00, Last bus: 20:40) MORE INFO: Gangjin Celadon Ware Museum 111 Tamjin-ro, Gangjin-eup, Gangjin-gun, Jeollanam-do http://gangjin.go.kr 082-61-430-3114 9:00am-6:00pm (March to October) 9:00am-5:00pm (November to February) Children aged 7 to 12: 400 won, Teenager (13 to 20) : KRW 500 Adult (21 to 64): KRW 1000 Bus: Take the local bus towards Maryang in Gangjin-eup.

Get off at Sadang-ri, Daegu-myeon. (First bus: 6:00, Last bus: 20:40)

July 2015 www.groovekorea.com 27

of celadon ceramics, attracting many tourists every year as the only place nationwide to find celadon kiln production sites. The Gangjin Celadon Ware Museum itself is built around an actual celadon kiln site and contains hundreds of celadon ceramic relics. The museum also gives visitors an interactive chance to produce their own celadon work of art, with choices from simply carving letters on a watercup to sculpting and shaping your own clay on a spinning wheel. Additionally, the Celadon Culture Festival takes place from August 1st to August 9th with over 80 programs for visitors to participate in, including an oxcart train trip and a Koryo celadon mystery sound tunnel for enthusiasts.

Finally, Gyeongbuk Province on Korea’s east coast is considered the home of Buddhist culture and contains many UNESCO culture heritage sites. The country’s east coast is also famous for seaports and seafood markets and the main city Pohang attracts many visitors as a popular weekend getaway. Learn all about the fascinating history of sea navigation and lighthouses at the Pohang Lighthouse Museum. Indoor exhibition zones include the Lighthouse Hall, providing a history of lighthouses through pictures and relics of lighthouse keepers, past and present. The Experience Hall has both an analog and digital space, offering visitors a hands-on opportunity to empathize what it would be like to be a lighthouse keeper or sea captain. Experience being a lighthouse keeper at night, steering your own ship or even control your own lighthouse. Outdoors, the Exhibition on the Water area is a chance to marvel at miniature of South Korean ports and lighthouses. Yeongil Bay and Pohang Port can be found alongside miniature Dokdo and Mokpogu lighthouses. Outdoor Exhibition zones also display a variety of lighthouse equipment such as a lighted buoy, a solar power generator and an air siren to complete the experience.

Explore the many facets of Korean culture and history this summer. Whether you’re planning on travelling north, west, south or east, South Korea has literally hundreds of educational and entertaining museums to enjoy.

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

Chosun Minhwa Museum

MORE INFO: Chosun Minhwa Museum 432-10 Gimsatgat-ro, Hadong-myeon, Yeongwol-gun, Gangwon-do www.minhwa.co.kr 033-375-6100 9:00am ~ 6:00pm (March to October) 9:00am-5:00pm (November to February) Adult/University Student: KRW5,000, Elementary/High school student: KRW4,000 Kindergarten student: KRW3,000 Senior citizen (65+): Free From Yeongwol Intercity Bus Terminal catch the Nongeochon Bus until you reach Gimsatgat. Catch the local bus and get off at Minhwa Museum (26 stops)

C OMMUNI TY Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

Vlades: Bringing Chosun To The Top Of The Fashion Dynasty Moo Yeol Choi turns the old into new with his Chosun vision

28 www.groovekorea.com July 2015

M

oo Yeol Choi has a story to tell. An original Seoulite who’s first passion was in music, he made a beeline for the world of fashion as a teen. Starting out as a hobby, the younger Moo Yeol made a cap, just for fun, at 15 and after its success with both his friends and the local community, a decision was made: fashion would have to triumph over music school.

Vlades is not a spelling mistake.

Having launched in 2012, the name was inspired by Vlad Dracula as Moo Yeol felt a connection between the darker mood that the character manifests and the clothes he produces. Vlades focuses on the finer details in their garments, using avant-garde silhouette tailoring techniques to reinvent gothic, edgier looks and catapult these

styles from the 90s into 21st Century fashion.

The brand has already completed five collections and has received high acclaim on catwalks in both Paris and Vancouver. The designer has established a strong international connection with buyers on other continents, proudly flying the Korean flag for his domestic fashion counterparts. A difficult market to crack, Moo Yeol observes how Korean fashion is developing very fast to attract a European fan base. ”It was hard to find Paris designers and Korean designers that are carried (together) by oversea stores but now Korean designer’s credibility is very positive and this awareness is increasing every season”.

However, Moo Yeol’s loyalties remain close to home, claiming his career highlight as being chosen for this year’s Seoul Fashion Week. Recalling the moment he received

Vlades plays around with the established couple look that Korea is so fond of, creating garments of similar styles for both genders.

Story by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring / photos courtesy of Vlades

plays around with the established ‘couple look’ that Korea is so fond of, creating garments of similar styles for both genders.

Moo Yeol mixes materials that are not usually matched together to provide a mixture of classic and modern with a touch of abstract in practical clothing.

The ‘Chosun’ collection itself was inspired by the historical Korean period, chiefly encapsulated by using fabrics similar to those

Vlades MUST HAVE item !

The Vlades summer collection leather jacket is perfect for any occasion. The leather garment matches any outfit to help make you stand out from the rest of the party. Made of high quality leather, the material is easily maintained by hand-washing. Encapsulating past Bohemian styles to modernize the ninja look for the 21st Century, the black finish has a side style zipper to offer a contemporary look while staying stylishly cool. priced between USD900 and USD1300, call the showroom for more details.

July 2015 www.groovekorea.com 29

More Info: Vlades The Chosun collection is available directly from the showroom or email for stockists details. http://vlades.kr marc@stealthprojekt.com mooyoel@naver.com So-am Building, 11th Floor, Bangbae-Dong, Seocho-Gu, Seoul, South Korea 010-9242-3913

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

Vlades focuses on the finer details in their garments, using avant-garde silhouette tailoring techniques to reinvent gothic, edgier looks from the 90 s into 21 s t Century fashion.

of the Hanbok and creating styles reminiscent of the looser fittings of 14th Century Korea. Black, gray and red garments also aspire to represent the deeper meanings of yester-year Korea, representing the elements to create a perfect harmony of clothing. Moo Yeol explains how the ‘Chosun’ collection is modernized by using two-length designs on sleeves and legs and two types of materials to show the connection between the two periods. The concept is close to the designer’s heart as he feels the stitching of the two periods and two materials is a metaphor to ‘stitch’ the divide of the two countries that he himself lives in.

Currently working on the next collection for Spring/Summer 16, the designer is excited about developments in fashion in Korea, commenting that it’s just the beginning of a very bright future. “I usually shop around Dosan Park intersection in Korea because there are lots of High Fashion stores and designer boutiques which I can check out” he says. Moo Yeol also likens the area to Japan’s Harajuku district, as a great place to pick up a designer bargain.

Vlades is not only thriving in Korea but has international acclaim which is developing the country’s credibility worldwide.

Five years may seem like a long way away but Moo Yeol has his eyes firmly on the prize: to have a full Paris-based collection.

The brand recycles old styles into new and sends a strong message to its potential customers: as the designer turns “weaknesses into strength to help build self-confidence in your appearance”. The Count has spoken.

Watch Vlades revive the past this summer.

C OMMUNI TY

the news, he says “I was on my way to a festival in Korea and I got the phone call from Generation Next. I was so happy that I could introduce my collection in Korea”.

The fashion show resulted in an exclusive opportunity to showcase the latest ‘Chosun’ collection. Focusing on the label’s vision of “to change existing forms into other ways”, the experimental selection brings a mixture of heavy wools and different leathers into both women’s and men’s clothing. Vlades

I N S I G H T Edited by Anita McKay (anita@groovekorea.com)

Legal Overtones The ongoing struggle to legalize the tattoo industry Story by Ian Henderson / Photos by Peter Kim / Translation by Hana Jin

30 www.groovekorea.com July 2015

I

n the summer of 2014, tattoo enthusiasts endured the merciless Korean heat for over two hours in order to gain entrance to INKBOMB, a tattoo convention featuring both domestic and international artists. Soon after the needles started to buzz, however, a handful of cops showed up to shut the whole thing down, demanding the removal of equipment and visible ink and leaving many of the patrons and visiting artists baffled. Turns out, even though hordes of young, freshly inked Koreans and numerous parlors can be found throughout Seoul, tattooing is actually illegal in Korea when not performed by a doctor.

Tattooing exists at the nexus of culture and economics. At the heart of this nexus is probably the person who personifies the struggle more than anyone else in Korea, Hernan Chang, owner of Tattooism studio and the head of the Korean Tattoo Association. Coming from an artistically inclined family, he and his friends began DIY tattooing, using nothing more than a simple needle and an ink pot. “Korea didn’t really have needle guns or equipment then, most of us hadn’t even heard of all of that.” Without the Internet or a domestic support network to learn his trade, Hernan lined up an apprenticeship in Mexico City under the tutelage of Tony Serrano. He found a niche market designing the classic “Oriental” dragons popular among his clientele, honing his skills in the very beginning by giving away free tattoos to the homeless population there.

I N S I G H T

The entrance of the tattoo into the Korean mainstream can perhaps be traced back to a soccer game between Korea and Japan in 2003, a moment that many artists view as the precise moment they knew the zeitgeist had changed for the younger population.

After scoring, Korean player Ahn Jeong-hwan removed his shirt and proudly displayed a tattoo on his shoulder. Matz, a tattoo artist and co-owner of Carpet Bombing Ink, relates how this impacted the collective psyche. “Celebrities having tattoos, like Ahn Jeong-hwan and Yoon Do-yun (of hard rock band YB) changed the concept that Koreans have about tattoos a lot.”

Hernan recognized it as a sign that he should open up shop in Korea and founded Tattooism at an old location in Yongsan-gu. However, though high-profile tattoo-bearers had served to broaden public perception of body art, some of the old stereotypes concerning the practice held true. “Most of my customers were thugs who wanted yakuza-style work done,” he complains.

“They didn’t care about art at all, they just wanted it cheap and quick.” After finally having grown disgruntled fulfilling self-defeating stereotypes, he took off for a brief stint in Japan before doing a three-year stay in Bangkok.

Hernan Chang, owner of Tattooism and head of the Korean Tattoo Association

Bomi, owner and artist of Badass Tattoos

Snubbing tradition The long association in the Far East between tattoos and organized crime is one aspect of the long and mostly negative cultural history surrounding the issue. Hardline Confucianism, much like Rastafarianism, strictly forbids any body modifications, even extending to the custom in the Joseon period of wearing the hair long in a top knot under a hat.

During the Japanese occupation, one of the main strategies used to destroy the Confucian system was cutting off the top knot, which caused many scholars to disembowel themselves in protest. Likewise, those with an iconoclastic bent or anti-authoritarian stance in later generations would get tattoos as a way to thumb their nose at tradition.

Before 2001, tattoos weren’t officially illegal in Korea or regulated in any way, but most people self-regulated and shunned them, so there was no need for the law to be involved. It also helped that tattooed individuals were often hassled by the authorities on the assumption that they were up to no good during the military dictatorships of the past. The government finally took an official stance on the matter in 2001, and ruled that any procedure involving a needle had to be performed by a licensed medical professional. As a result, the only legal ink one can get here is in the form of permanent makeup.

Hernan formed the Korean Tattoo Association in response to this peculiar law and began holding TATTOO VIRUS conventions. Along with Taerem, the owner of Sunrat Studios which organizes INKBOMB, they hold conventions and contact legislators to help raise awareness of the issue. Being involved in an illegal industry — let alone the activist face of it — is bound to cause some logistical problems. Most shops don’t have signs out front, and Hernan even goes as far as to move his shop every so often to stay ahead of the police should they come looking. Bomi, owner and artist of Badass Tattoos says she’s often paranoid but has never had a problem. “The cops actually eat at a restaurant next door and we turn the music down and try to be low key, but I don’t think they really care.”

July 2015 www.groovekorea.com 31

“We have until September — after that the National Assembly is out of session. We’ll lose all this momentum we’ve got going at the moment. If not now, then it’ll be a long time until we get the chance again.”

“I think the wealthy people will buy up independent artists and studios and turn it into just massproduced crap.”

Edited by Anita McKay (anita@groovekorea.com)

Going Mainstream

32 www.groovekorea.com July 2015

Edited by Anita McKay (anita@groovekorea.com)

I N S I G H T

I N S I G H T

Moving forward While legalization would obviously remedy many of these problems, the Korean business world would present a new set of challenges. Bomi thinks her life will be different if her profession is legalized, but not necessarily for the better. “It will just be new problems to deal with. Primarily I think the wealthy people will buy up independent artists and studios and turn it into just mass-produced crap. They’ve got the advertising budget to crush all the low level competition as well.”

Hernan, on the other hand, sees nothing but positives coming out of it. “If the chaebols (large Korean business conglomerates) do that, then fine. It will increase the quality of the artists through competition, as well as making a tattoo artist someone young people can look up to as something cool and respectable to do with your life.”

There are mixed feelings regarding the legalization of tattooing, but the consensus is that if it’s going to happen, it will happen soon. Hernan explained, “I thought in 2003 that it would be done by this point. I really think this is one thing that Park Geun-hye could use to her advantage and pass. We have until September — after that the National Assembly is out of session. We’ll lose all this momentum we’ve got going at the moment.

If not now, then it’ll be a long time until we get the chance again.”

MORE INFO Badass Tattoo www.facebook.com/badasstattookorea Tattooism www.facebook.com/ta2ism Inked Korea — an English service for tattoo bookings and shop information www.facebook.com/groups/inkedkorea Instagram: inked_korea Kakao: eatmorepickles

July 2015 www.groovekorea.com 33

Most police crackdowns on the industry are the result of tip-offs.

Though there is no shortage of groups opposed to the legalization of the tattoo industry, Hernan thinks the most influential are medical organizations, who have a vested interest in maintaining the status quo.

The Korean Medical Association supports the illegality of non-medical professions performing tattoos on the grounds that there are too many side-effects, such as hepatitis B and C, syphilis and AIDS due to use of unsanitary tattoo equipment. However, Hernan suggests that these organizations, in addition to not particularly trusting the professionalism of tattooists, have a deep-seated fear that, if traditional tattooing is legalized, it could be competition — an idea he deems absurd. “I don’t give a shit about permanent make-up. I’m an artist, we care about art.”

Hernan and Bomi both speculate that one of these groups may have been responsible for the bust at last year’s INKBOMB convention. The police admitted they were there because of a call from the public, but did not disclose who it came from.

Not everyone is against them however, and tattooists have allies in some very unlikely places. Case in point: The normally ultra-conservative Park Geun-hye administration is one of the main supporters of legalization, seeing it as a great job creation program for youth that wouldn’t necessitate more years of expensive schooling. Bomi at Badass points out that she originally got into tattooing because she had majored in design; faced with a weak job market upon graduation, tattooing became an attractive option, something in which she could use her skills and knowledge. Bomi can also see another simple economic factor behind the unexpected support of the government: “They’re really desperate for tax money wherever they can get it.”

As with most forms of prohibition, black market economies will arise, and with them the negative consequences typical of an unregulated industry. For tattooing, these consequences include money-grabbing opportunist artists, the tattooing of young teenagers, low-quality ink from China, and a general air of fear that real artists have to live under day in, day out. It seems a roll of the die decides who gets pinched, and often the person holding that die is an informant. And when the cops make a show of cracking down, they do so with gusto. Fines can be up to 10 million won (US $9,000), property can be seized, and prison time is not unheard of. Hernan has been escorted to the police station several times and knows of another artist who has served time. Bomi related a story she heard secondhand about an artist who committed suicide when the hammer finally came down.

Edited by Anita McKay (anita@groovekorea.com)

Competition and crackdowns

I N S I G H T Edited by Anita McKay (anita@groovekorea.com)

The meaning behind their tattoos and the people who wear them

34 www.groovekorea.com July 2015

“I love Jesus,”

Yun Young-kwon says as he points to his first tattoo — a cross that covers the top of his right arm. “My mother thought it was a sticker so she tried to remove it,” he recalls, laughing while imitating her attempt at erasing it.

“When I got my second tattoo she was like, ‘sigh, OK.’ I am in the fashion industry and I have my own characteristics. I think she believes in what I do and what I pursue regarding my fashion style.”

Yun, like many Koreans has embraced tattoos. He got his first piece of body art after his conscription and in the decade that has passed, the musician, fashion brand director and father of two has added quotes, cartoon characters and musical influences to his body. He describes this artwork as an extension of his personality — a representation of his passions, creativity and life accomplishments.

“It kind of represents who I am and what I am doing.”

Story by Anita McKay / Photos by Peter Kim / Translation by Hana Jin

Breaking the Stereotype

Doing it for the kids

Covering up and confrontation

Edited by Anita McKay (anita@groovekorea.com)

their way to make their body art familiar to their 6-yearold son. In celebration of his birth they both got matching tattoos and don’t hesitate to point it out when asked about their favorite piece. Still, some of their tattoos, like the bleeding Jesus-like figure Matz has on his left forearm, aren’t so child friendly.

“I name each of my tattoos. Especially for scary ones I give them cute names like ‘Mimi’ and ‘Jujubobby’,” Matz says. The couple, who have been in business for eight years, say that there are more Koreans visiting their store — a sign that Korea is becoming more open to the culture. While the desire to get a tattoo may still be repressed by the strict Confucianism mindset, Nadi says that Korea is beginning to view tattoos, and the work that she does, in a more positive way.

“More and more people are becoming open-minded toward tattoos and I think they treat me as an artist.”

I N S I G H T

For some, tattoos still symbolize a life involving crime but the association is beginning to fade. As the weather heats up and hemlines get shorter more and more Koreans are putting their body art on display, bringing a sense of normalcy to an underground culture that is still considered taboo. Some may view it as a fad or fashion accessory, but for Yun the meanings of his tattoos carry a more personal note.

“I like to let my sons know that tattoos are not bad,” he says. The Homer Simpson and Iron Man portraits on his upper right arm are testament this. “He (Homer Simpson) also has a tattoo but at the same time he is also praying.”

Showing tattoos in a positive light is important to dispel old stereotypes, particularly for parents who are partial to getting inked. Nadi and Matz, tattoo artists and owners of Carpeting Bombing Ink in Hongdae, go out of

Even with tattoos being featured in the mainstream media the idea that they must be covered up out of respect is prevalent.

In general, Matz says he never feels the need to cover his tattoos, however Nadi insists that there is still a need to wear longer sleeves for certain occasions.

“When we go to the wedding of our friends, we should (cover up our tattoos) because their parents or older people in their family (are there).”

Kim Sung-hwan, a musician and clothing brand director, who has tattoos on his legs, arms chest and back, covers his ink “out of courtesy” when he visits his grandparents. “Korean culture,” he explains.

Not covering tattoos in public can still lead to negative attention — something Yun has become familiar with. In Korean bathhouses he says that there is a tendency for some to conform to the idea that people with tattoos are lawbreakers.

“First when the older people in public baths saw me, I felt that they saw me not as an ordinary person, even children. I thought I was considered a kind of unique person, not a normal person and I didn’t like it,” he says.

Not a fashion statement While Yun says negative experiences still occur he is happy more Koreans are embracing tattoos. His only worry is that it will be viewed as a fashion accessory rather than represent the personality of the person it is attached to.

“I hope (people) don’t pursue tattoos just as fashion. I want them to accept this as a culture and I want them to love it.”

Special thanks to Chelsea Votel of Inked Korea for facilitating the interviews.

MORE INFO

Moriah www.moriah-x.com

July 2015 www.groovekorea.com 35

Carpet Bombing Ink www.facebook.com/pages/ CarpetBombing-ink/589423307832052?fref=ts

r e m Sum

Edited by Joe McPherson (food@groovekorea.com)

FOOD & DRINK

Story and

photos by

Survival Guide Don’t fight it. Savor it.

G

uess what?! Korea has four seasons. We know you’ve heard that many times and think, “So what? So does much of the rest of the world.”

A better way to phrase it is that Korea is highly seasonal. The seasons are more intense, especially when it comes to food. There is produce that only exists in stores for a couple of weeks a year. There are foods that are designed for the seasons.

Seoul summers start off pleasant then rainy then sticky hot. Rather than complain about what you can’t control, embrace these times with consumables. Make these moments crystallize. Grab some spicy food to sweat the heat, some icy noodles to quench the fire and some sizzling jeon and makgeolli for the rainy days. The Groove food team has put together some ideal ways for surviving the Seoul summer.

Story and photos by Andy Hume

Spicy Galbi Jjim

Dongin Dong 동인동 511-5 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu 02-516-5765

36 www.groovekorea.com July 2015

e, Cha Andy Hum

Jin Oh, Jo mond, Yu rlotte Ham

“Mepgae hae juseyo,” I asked, “Make it spicy.”

The ajumma arched her eyebrow but said nothing. I’m no masochist, but I’ve had too many “foreigner specials,” where restaurants dial things down. Not Dongin Dong in Sinsa, where such requests are taken seriously. The star here is the modeum jeon, the best and juiciest Korean pancake I’ve had anywhere in the city. Still, don’t dare think of heading to Dongin Dong without trying their spicy beef galbi jjim as well. Arriving at the table in a battered metal bowl, the radioactive red tint of the sauce makes good on its threats of serious spice. You’ll suck down makgeolli by the kettleful, but it won’t help. Nothing can help. Eat through the pain. Welcome the cleansing fire. Then order more makgeolli.

n e McPherso

Chilly Naengmyeon

Story and photos by Charlotte Hammond

Bongpiyang 봉피양 1F, Coatel, 1330 Seocho-dong, Gangnam-gu (Gangnam Station, exit 5) Other locations around Seoul and Gyeonggi-do 02-587-7018 ibjgalbi.com

Story and photos by Yoo Jin Oh

Want More Spicy Ribs?

Myeong-dong Shin Shin 95-1 Myeong-dong 2-ga, Jung-gu 02-773-4842 “You sure? Number three is really spicy,” she asked, quickly glancing at my admittedly very pale boyfriend, whilst taking our orders for level three spicy galbi jjim (mae-un galbi jjim 매 운갈비찜). Tucked away in a basement in Myeong-dong, ShinShin (신신) is renowned for its spicy galbi jjim, ranging from spice level one (moderate) to five (suicidal). Unlike other specialty spicy food restaurants that leave only the sensation of your tongue burning, the beef galbi jjim here has a bal-

Edited by Joe McPherson (food@groovekorea.com)

domestic beef. Bongpiyang’s mul naengmyeon broth is a masterful blend of beef stock and vinegar, their noodles — you can order 80 percent or 100 percent buckwheat — are dense and earthy with lovely flecks of black in their muddy color. Their bibim naengmyeon is a less-rich option, the sauce much denser and spicier than a sikdang rendering.

Be prepared to sacrifice sikdang prices for the quality upgrade. Price per bowl is between 12,000 and 16,000 won.

FOOD & DRINK

Naengmyeon is a dish nearly as polarizing as the Korean summer, you either relish it or grimace upon its arrival. Those who embrace naengmyeon’s swirled noodle island steeped in an icy swimming pool of vinegary broth know its refreshing power.

Sikdangs all over offer it as a seasonal special, but if you’re a naengmyeon partisan it’s worthwhile to seek out the good stuff.

Bongpiyang is one such family of restaurants specializing in naengmyeon and fine

anced mix of flavors, and the owners are generous with vegetables and beef.

There are two sizes available, medium (35,000 won) for 2-3 persons and large (45,000 won) for 4-5 people. Don’t fill up completely, as you can always ask for fried rice (1,000 won per bowl) to be made with the leftover sauce. They are also famous for their bulgogi (25,000 won for 300g). It’s the perfect place to sweat out your stress or simply enjoy watching your friends fight through the tears with each bite.

Story and photos by Joe McPherson

Rainy Day Jeon and Makgeolli

Weonjo Mapo Halmeoni Bindaetteok 256-12 Gongdeok-dong, Mapo-gu 02-715-3775

buy what you want a la carte or just go upstairs to the traditional pub. Get the jeon variety plate (modeum jeon 모듬전) or the tempura variety plate (modeum twigim 모듬튀김). They serve something different each time, so it’s like a treasure chest of greasy yummies. Match that with a fizzy makgeolli rice beer. They have a nice variety. Faves are the chestnut (al bam 알밤) and the pine nut (jat 잣) flavors. Or just get an ice-crusted bowl of dong dong ju 동동주 (rustic rice beer). I’ve eaten here on stormy days, and I can’t think of a better place.

July 2015 www.groovekorea.com 37

Jeon and makgeolli are the perfect friends for a steamy rainy day. The sound of the pancakes sizzling mimics the tempest outside. It always brings me back to the Korean countryside. There is the popular Gwangjang Market for bindaetteok (mung bean pancake), which is fine if you like suffocating crowds. I’m more partial to the jeon market outside Gongdeok Station, between exits five and six. They have most anything you want in pancake and fried form. I’d bet they’d deep fry your phone if you left it lying around. You can

Myanmar pop-up has great food and story Story and photos by Jordan Redmond

38 www.groovekorea.com July 2015

Edited by Joe McPherson (food@groovekorea.com)

FOOD & DRINK

W

Thi

t n a

s Restaur Should Be t On Yo r Lis u

In place of returning home, Kyaw Kyaw U, with the help of his wife, Oh Ma Kyaw, opened Amieran near Myeongji University a few years ago.

Earlier this year, he was approached by the owner of Gyeongnidan’s design-centric cafe, Take Out Drawing, who, after a few visits to Amieran, was hooked on Myanmarese cooking and offered Kyaw Kyaw U a pop-up space in the cafe’s courtyard.

It’s here, amongst trendier, more recognizable Western food options and seemingly irresistible craft beer spots, that one can find Kyaw Kyaw U slinging the most beloved dishes of his homeland, many of which he learned to cook as a teenager from his mother.

Leading off the menu is arguably the national breakfast dish, mohinga, which is like a twangier cousin of Southern American catfish stew. Silky rice vermicelli lurks under a slightly murky golden-bronze fish paste-based broth that is speckled with shreds of Spanish mackerel. The mohinga is topped off with patches of fried chickpeas, chili powder, and cilantro for a powerfully varied taste.

Lephet is a salad of fermented tea leaves and another uniquely Myanmarese dish. The leaves form an earthy confetti highlighted by feisty red chilis and various fried legumes. The salad is light yet packs a decidedly garlicky punch.

Other small plates can be thought of as Myanmarese anju, one of which features three kinds of fried crackers whose saltiness screams to be paired with a can of the Myanmar beer on offer. Also, the spicy root vegetable salad is revelatory. Made of knobby, almost insectile-looking roots which burst

hat does it mean to be an expat restaurant owner? On one hand, it’s just an honest way to make a living by sharing the food culture that one knows and loves. But there’s also necessarily a component of memory and nostalgia that drives someone to recreate the foods of their homeland.

Such is the case for Kyaw Kyaw U, political asylum seeker and proprietor of Korea’s only Myanmarese restaurant. After having come to Korea as a laborer in 1999, Kyaw Kyaw U protested in front of the Myanmar embassy and fell afoul of his country’s then-ruling military junta. Although the political climate in his home country is brightening, he still considers it too dangerous to return home, joking that now there are only two countries in the world he cannot visit: Myanmar and North Korea.

with a decided nuttiness, it’s a refreshing spicysour accompaniment to the heavier soups and stews.

Additional mains on offer are fine but fail to stand out. There is ametahing, a chunky beef stew that demonstrates the Indian influence in Myanmar’s cuisine with its spicy-sweet garam marsala notes. It comes with a piece of rosemary ciabatta for sopping. In addition, there are a couple of noodle dishes: one a spicy stir fry with seafood and another in a coconut broth that are both a bit reminiscent of Thai food and represent a safe if uninspired bet for more finicky diners.

Rather than diving into yet another slice of pizza predictability when at Gyeongnidan, diners who dare to drop into Amieran will be rewarded with a small but intriguing menu of very affordable Myanmar home-style cooking, and most importantly, a bit of irreplaceable food nostalgia for themselves.

Main dishes: 8,000 won, Side dishes: 5,500 for the Gyeongnidan location.

MORE INFO: Amieran @ Myeongji University 324-44 Namgajwa-dong, Seodaemun-gu 11-3 p.m.

070-8958-6943 MORE INFO: Amieran @ Take-out Drawing 637-5 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu 5-9 p.m.

02 790 2637

H e u r i g e r

Story by Yoo Jin Oh / Photos by Peter Kim

Austrian in a hanok

FOOD & DRINK

The second dish was the traditional Roast Pork Neck (Schweinebraten) served with dumplings (Servittenknödel) and Sauerkraut for 25,000 won. The pork was roasted perfectly without being dry and went well with the soft and hearty bread dumplings. We found the sauce a little bland, which sadly undermined the actual dish itself, as we were hoping for something with as much punch as the Goulash. Surprisingly, one of our favorite parts of the meal was the home-made pickles with chili peppers they served with the main dishes. I’ve never been a fan of pickles, but these were just spicy and sour enough to really bring forward the different meat flavors of the dishes.

We had just enough room to share a dessert between us, and we opted to try what was

labelled as Austrian King Pancake (Kaiserchmarnn Klein) for 7,000 won, which turned out to be Austrian torn pancakes with raisins covered with powdered sugar. This was definitely our favorite dish of the day, as the fluffy raisin-studded pancakes with hints of rum went so well with the espresso we got.

Their lunch sets (both weekdays and weekends) is a great deal. For 15,000 won, it includes appetizer, main with salad, espresso or Vienna coffee. I’d recommend going for the lunch sets and definitely ordering extra dessert and sifting through their wine list for a perfectly relaxed lunch complemented by some soothing German yodeling.

MORE INFO: Heuriger 7 Sajik-ro 10-gil, Jongno-gu 070-4231-4232 heuringer.co.kr

Ambience Food Service Value Score

July 2015 www.groovekorea.com 39

However the bread basket and the green-salad was rather surprisingly and disappointingly Korean. Simple lettuce salad with yogurt dressing and toasted white bread was not what I had expected from an Austrian restaurant, as we were earnestly looking forward to having proper bread. It didn’t really help that the hostess strongly recommended serving the house white with ice. We reluctantly agreed to give it a try, and soon thanked ourselves for a rather “watery wine.” Their wine list is actually

well-stocked, so I think next time we’ll definitely spend more time looking through it than following through with our waiter’s suggestion.

Just as my hopes were beginning to falter, our main dishes arrived, and they deliciously met our expectations. The Beef Goulash with Noodles or Bread Dumplings for 22,000 won (Rindgulasch mit Nudeln oder Servitten-knödel). The goulash was excellent, with just the right blend of the rich flavors of paprika and tomato and surprisingly without it being overpowering. The dish went really well with the pasta, but I would’ve liked the pasta to be served warmer.

Edited by Joe McPherson (food@groovekorea.com)

W

hen we walked into the deceptively old-fashioned hanok, the last thing we expected was to be greeted with yodeling and a vine-draped garden courtyard. Heuriger, open now for six months, is an Austrian Restaurant tucked away in Gyeongbokgung, serving traditional Austrian cuisine.

Heuriger, the traditional Austrian name for a wine tavern, definitely has one of the most eclectic blends of cultures I’ve ever seen in Seoul.

We started our meal off with an appetizer of Mussels with Bread (Cozze di Mare mit Brot), a salad resembling ceviche with plenty of mussels, squids, shrimps in tangy dressing. The salad was well-balanced, and the fresh ingredients dressed in lemon definitely refreshed our appetite.

FOOD & DRINK Edited by Joe McPherson (food@groovekorea.com)

Merlion M

Singaporean dessert land

Story and Photos by Jordan Redmond

erlion is a new entrant into Hongdae’s already incredibly adventurous and dense dessert scene. But unlike liquid nitrogen ice cream, churros and macarons, don’t expect to see their concept of housemade, time-intensive traditional Singaporean desserts being replicated on neighborhood street corners around the city. All ingredients are imported for irreplaceable authenticity. It shows in Merlion’s kaya toast (3,500 won), a Singaporean staple breakfast sandwich of silky coconut milk based jam and pats of supple butter. Also of note is their sesame rice ball dessert (6,000 won), which is four amorphous, gossamery orbs filled with molten granular sesame paste. These should be eaten with ninja-like precision, much like a soup dumpling, or else the black sesame filling will leak out like the ink of some extra-dimensional cephalopod. A black glutinous rice dessert, like a more effete red bean porridge, several other toasts, rice puddings and drinks (4,0006,000 won) including special “cloth sock” coffee beckon for one of the most unique and high quality dessert experiences in an area already brimming with them.

MORE INFO: Merlion 346-20 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu Make a right just out of Hongik University Station, exit 8. Walk two blocks then hang another right and then your first left. Merlion will be on the righthand side on the second floor about 50 meters down.

Mon-Sun noon-11pm

Il Gelato

By Baik and Cavallaro Try it all! Go for it.

40 www.groovekorea.com July 2015

A

Story and Photos by Ged Hughes

warm welcome was offered by the owner as we entered, insisting we try all the flavors before we made our choice. Not one to refuse free ice cream, we did as instructed. From the Stracciatella with generous chunks of top quality chocolate, past the incredibly fruity mango, slipping by the divine black sesame seed, I nearly settled on

the pistachio, one of the best I’ve ever tried, but I had to go with the salted caramel.

I struggle to describe just how good this was, but imagine a fairy fell into a tub of cream, stumbled into a cup of caramel and proceeded to dance on your tongue whilst simultaneously lightly scattering tiny handfuls of salt.

Sublime!

MORE INFO: Il Gelato 550-9 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu

02-511-1177

Story by Robbie Nguyen / Photos by Joe McPherson

Pancho Sandia

Watermelon with some heat

The perfect counter against the unyielding heat and perpetual perspiration that is summertime Sol, Pancho Sandia is a devilish blend of refreshing and spicy. Watermelon is the anchor of this margarita variant, blending seamlessly with the fresh lime, mint and sweet agave to deliver an invigorating cocktail worthy of the beach.

The Tres G Plata holds its own, and the gochu pepper is the fiery dagger that drives the point home. Salud!

Restaurant Buzz

News and finds from the Restaurant Buzz Facebook group Story by Joe McPherson

Aloi in Gwanghwamun has been getting raves for its

Thai cuisine and great service.

The nice French places keep popping up. Comme Moa in Haebangchon has gotten praise for some quality food at better prices than most French restaurants in Seoul. Try the lamb “French style” (medium).

Sid Kim, one of the owners of Vatos Urban Tacos and famous for the Sid Burger on their menu, has opened, well, Sid Burger at the Over the Dish food court near City Hall Station, exit 10. It took only thirty days from concept to open.

Some fine looking burgers are coming out of there—crispy pork belly with egg, bacon guacamole with cheese, sliders.

Now, this is a seriously unverified rumor, but IHOP (formerly International House of Pancakes) may be looking into coming to Korea. Even if they are checking into it, it doesn’t mean they will be here. I’ve seen a handful of foreign franchises make public overtures to the Korean market but never go through with their plans. Stay tuned.

Comme Moa 26-10 Yongsan-dong 2-ga, Yongsan-gu 02-6217-5252 commemoa.com

Sid Burger 19 Seosomun-ro 11-gil, Jung-gu

July 2015 www.groovekorea.com 41

Aloi Thai Restaurant 아로이 타레스토랑 223 Naeja-dong, Jongno-gu 02-738-0107

Edited by Joe McPherson (food@groovekorea.com)

2oz Sauza Tres Generaciones Plata 0.5oz Cointreau 1oz Fresh Lime 0.05 Agave Nectar 4 Chunks Watermelon 1/2 Gochu Pepper 4 Mint Springs (for muddling) 1 Mint Sprig (for garnish) Salt (to rim glass)

FOOD & DRINK

Story by Natalie Ler-Davies and Joe McPherson

s a y a p a P and s ’ e s Ree

Recipe

Story and photos by Natalie Ler-Davies

T

rack down to your local E-Mart, and you’ll be surprised with some interesting new finds that will make foreigners and expats living in Korea jump for joy.

From the produce aisle, items that caught our eyes are tropical fruits such as fresh papayas and limes from the Philippines, just in time for the summer season! Can’t beat a nice cold papaya showered with squeezes of lime juice — a match made in heaven! A ripe papaya should be orange in colour and not too soft to the touch. Another interesting find is the ready-to-eat Super Grain Quinoa and Rice by Dong Won, alongside other interesting blends such as E-Mart’s own exclusive brand Peacock’s Fresh Ginseng Rice. Keeping up with the local food trends and the increasing interest of tropical fruits in Korea, we are hoping that these new finds are here to stay.

It’s rare that we would talk about Costo, since it’s not always accessible by our readers. Yet Reese’s Peanut Butter Cups have recently been sighted there. The RPBC has been an underground treat for American expats that could only be found in black markets, the USO Cantina when it existed, and High Street Market. Having them at Costco gives the hope that this elusive fave may go more mainstream.

Sweet Thai Chilli Bacon Rosettes

with a Warm Pumpkin Mash What to do:

1.

Roast the kabocha whole for 45 minutes in a preheated oven (180°C/350°F) or cube and boil/ steam until al dente. Set aside to cool.

2.

Dunk each bacon strip into the sweet thai chilli sauce, place on a baking pan lined with a baking sheet. Bake for 15 minutes on (180°C/350°F).

Alternatively pan fry them on a low heat over the stove. Set aside to cool down. **Keep the liquid gold that excreted from the bacon that is now left in your baking/fry pan. DO NOT THROW AWAY** otherwise you’re going to kick yourself stupid.

3.

42 www.groovekorea.com July 2015

Slice the kabocha in half, clean out the seeds and scoop out the flesh in a bowl. Save the skin to serve (if baked).

Ingredients 5 bacon strips

1/2 cup sweet thai chilli sauce 1 whole kabocha

2 stalks of fresh coriander, chopped 1 handful roasted walnuts, roughly chopped

4.

5.

Add the walnuts and coriander to the kabocha, mash and mix well.

Now, drizzle half of that delicious, fragrant, intoxicating oily heavenly bacon goodness all over your mash.

6.

7.

Scoop the mash back into the kabocha or leave in the bowl to serve.

Twirl the bacon over the top of the mash and lightly press down. Drizzle the rest of the liquid gold over the top. You’ll thank me for that. I’ll be waiting for my fruit baskets!

Story and photo by Rob Shelley

What does “craft beer” even mean?

The wide variety of choices in craft beer can also be daunting at first, but it doesn’t take a snob to learn what’s what. Pilsners are light, clean and crisp. Ales are less clean and crisp but with more flavors. Porters and stouts are both dark ales that have roasty flavors like chocolate or coffee. Pale ales are bitter with exotic flavors and aromas. India pale ales, or IPAs, increase the bitterness and flavor. IPAs especially require you to try them a few times to adjust to the hit of dryness, bitterness, and intense flavor — but it becomes well worth it.

There are tons of other styles and versions, but that doesn’t have to be a problem. Just go into a craft beer establishment and talk to the bartender. Or use Google. It’s easy to find something you like while supporting small and local businesses that craft their beer with quality and care.

Edited by Joe McPherson (food@groovekorea.com)

different kinds before you find one you love or taste one kind several times before you start to love it.

Indeed, craft beer can be expensive. Yet much of that added expense goes towards supporting local and small-scale businesses that really care about making a quality product with quality ingredients.

FOOD & DRINK

T

he term has become inescapable — craft beer. For some people the words represent hipster snobbery and overpriced trendiness. For others the words bring a rush of excitement. So what does the term “craft beer” even mean?

At its heart craft beer simply means quality and craftsmanship.

Craft beer is most often made by small or medium-sized companies who care more about making good beer than good money. For breweries here in Korea, the taxman takes up to half of what you pay when you fill your glass with craft beer and uses it to fill the government coffers. Local craft brewers are left with only beer to pay themselves, so they have to make it delicious.

Quality also makes craft beer a little more expensive. Corporate beer is made with corn, rice and who knows what else. Craft beer is made with high-quality ingredients, even if those ingredients may be a little wacky sometimes.

That wackiness gives you a wide variety of choice. There’s nothing wrong with enjoying a glass of Hite, OB, Max or Cass. But all those beers are of the same style. Most beer we drink is a light pilsner, which is actually a great beer style.

But it’s just one style. And the ones we usually drink are made as industrially efficient as the human taste bud will allow.

On the other hand, craft beer can give you sweet or dry, bitter, sour or smooth, chocolaty, spicy, citrusy, floral, bready, nutty or almost any flavor you can imagine! You might taste several

Story and photo by Andrew Hume

Deep-fried squid WTF

on a stick

squid on a stick like it’s the most normal thing in the world. Juicy and a little spicy, it tastes a lot better than it looks, though that may seem like faint praise. The extreme fritters franchise started out in department stores, but with stalls now popping up all over the city, including Hongdae and Noksapyeong, Ozzang can bring your horrifying snack food nightmares to life in a Seoul neighborhood near you.

July 2015 www.groovekorea.com 43

I

remember as a kid watching Alien’s titular monster burst out of John Hurt’s stomach, and I nearly died of fright. Little did I imagine that three decades later I’d be eating one of the damn things.

The latest trending food chain to hit the streets is Ozzang, which will sell you a massive deep-fried

Pentaport: Story by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring / Photos courtesy of Yescom

Solid And Ready To Rock

ENTERTAINMENT

Celebrating an amazing ten years, it’s no wonder the Incheon Pentaport Rock Festival 2015 is now the biggest outdoor festival in Korea

T he Festi val

P

entaport Rock Festival celebrates its tenth birthday this year with a three day music extravaganza in Songdo, Incheon from August 7 to 9. It’s been a rollercoaster ride of events as the festival has experimented with a change of venue, stage names and even music genre to become one of the biggest and brightest outdoor music festivals in Korea.

Back in 1999, the festival’s predecessor went by the name of ‘Tri-port’. This smaller, startup music event was held at the in-place of Songdo where it was all the rage to have an outdoor rave in this trendy area. Unfortunately, the festival didn’t get very far and, having gotten cancelled due to extreme weather con-

44 www.groovekorea.com July 2015

In its biggest ever celebration, with another 50,000 expected this year and more than 100 bands will perform. ditions, it wasn’t revived the following year.

Fast-forward 7 years and a name change to Pentaport saw a similar festival mould using Songdo’s renowned events space to start up festivities again.

The name Pentaport focuses heavily on the word part ‘penta’ to symbolize the five running themes of the festival each year. Annu-

ally, the ideas of music, passion, eco-friend- est outdoor venue in Korea. Learning from liness, DIY and friendship are designated previous experiences at Triport, Pentaport returning themes to help establish familiarity now boasts an original mega-sized built-in to every one of its visitors. Music performed venue with a carefully designed 3 sided panel between the two stages encapsulates the structure to protect revelers from the natural rock and dance genres that the event stands elements.

The action continues away from the stage for. Passion represents the people that attend who make the festival what it is every year with a ‘contents zone’ providing a complete while eco-friendliness refers to the Songdo outdoor program. Divided into four sections, grounds that have been specially designed cultural activities in a Super Mix Lounge, Cool and developed using recyclable materials to Zone, Food Zone and Camping Zone provide make Pentaport a greener festival. DIY makes more festivity if needed or a relaxing space the weekend your own with the camping fa- if preferred. The newer venue’s impressively cilities on offer for all visitors to enjoy events sized outdoor camping area is an opportunity more comfortably and friendship within the to get an up-close and personal experience festival communities means there will be of the festival. Of course if camping doesn’t more people to Kakao chat by the festival’s hold any attraction, then the proximity of the grounds to local pensions and hotels makes end.

Another important part of the festival’s title it possible to head for some home comforts.

Accessibility is a huge part of the festival’s is the word ‘Rock’, which Pentaport has firmly held onto to as a concept over the years. A appeal, located near Incheon Business Dissolid move forward has seen organizers veer trict Station, right in the middle of the city. away from western-only acts, using the plat- Festival-goers can make the approxaimate form as a way to promote domestic talent. 30km journey from Seoul quite easily without Indeed, organizers awarded Korean rock leg- having to endure a two-hour bus ride or the ends Deulgukhwa the headliner slot in 2013 need for shuttle buses. In fact, the past nine which was met with much positive acclaim years have seen more than 500,000 visitors and even garnered the event a ‘Best Festival’ to Pentaport festivals at their three different venues collectively. In its biggest ever celebraaccolade.

Since 2014, Pentaport has moved closer to tion this year, another 50,000 are expected to its original venue in Songdo. New grounds enjoy festivities with more than 100 bands at the Incheon Songdo Free Economic Zone performing. Don’t miss out – Incheon’s Penspan 106 acres of parkland, to house the larg- taport Rock Festival hospitality awaits.

T he Ameni ties M o onlig ht Pa rk ENTERTAINMENT

The main stage goes by the name Moonlight Park, perhaps due to the revelers reputation for dancing in the eponymous.

This covered stadium comes complete with a roof to guarantee live shows without getting rained on.

The Drea m Stage The second biggest stage, the Dream stage, will be designed with a temporary marquee to handle all weathers. Smaller than the main stage, this is a more typical festival affair with an outdoor area toward the back of the arena for a traditional al-fresco experience. With capacity for 7,000 people, enjoy the smaller crowd that focuses more on the music.

Specia lly Th e m e d Stage Although at the time of printing the theme had not been confirmed, success from previous years experimenting with reggae, African and soul healing zones strongly hints an alternative to rock is in store. Last year’s Playground Reggae stage provided a welcome break from the main stages with an amusement theme and music from different genres to offer a more laid back environment.

S u p e r M i x Lo u n g e The lounge runs late into the early morning, bringing a similar club vibe akin to Hongdae or Gangnam. The DJ Club Lounge is where the after party takes place once the main stages have finished and definitely a place where one can party until the sun comes up.

Co o l Zo n e It’s summer time so it’s only natural to have a Cool Zone. Inspired by water theme parks, the area features an outdoor pool, fountain and a program of aqua-related games and competitions to battle the hot summer rays.

F o o d Zo n e The Food zone provides an international menu, with a plethora of stalls offering Asian and European food alongside American fare.

Revelers have often commended traders for their fair prices and high sanitation standards – a must at any festival this season.

The camping area is open to those who have purchased a two-day or three-day ticket. Free camping spots are available to those who bring their own tents and equipment, although stalls on the festival grounds will also be renting out the essentials for a comfortable night under the stars. Ticket holders are offered bathroom and shower booth facilities and should take note to bring (or rent) all other provisions needed for their stay.

July 2015 www.groovekorea.com 45

Campi n g Zo n e

7 th

ENTERTAINMENT

T he Musi c The 10th year anniversary line-up includes a mixture of bands old and new for a fascinating celebration of music. The stages have been arranged this year to include the usual main Moonlight Park stage, the Dream stage and the specially themed stage (to be announced).

The 100 invited artists are a firm mixture of classic and contemporary talent and are sure to get those energy levels rising in the heart of Songdo.

Scorpions

8 th

46 www.groovekorea.com July 2015

The Hea d l in e rs Friday sees German rockers The Scorpions fresh in from Hannover to play tracks from their 19th studio album ‘Return To Forever’. The five piece, who have changed their line up several times since their beginnings in 1965, have remained fairly steady with the current members playing together since 2005. The Scorpions, who are most famed for their timely release of ‘Wind Of Change’ which became a symbolic theme tune at the time of the fall of the Berlin Wall in 1990, will undoubtedly be showing their softer side with some ballads. American outfit The Used will play from latest offering ‘Imaginary Enemy’ as well as tracks from their five previous albums to showcase their many sub-genre facets of rock including post-hardcore, scream and alternative metal.

Saturday brings British rock band the Kooks. Influenced by the sounds of British pop from the 1960s, the band may initially seem out of place at Pentaport with their uplifting pop sounds. However, their often experimental albums featuring more prominent punk rifts, ska sounds, Britpop and even reggae mean the band are sometimes even likened to the Arctic Monkeys. Expect fourth album ‘Listen’ to take center stage in their performance.

Sunday closes with the mighty Prodigy for a rock/ dance/pop amalgamation spanning their 25 years in the music business. Since their journey began in 1990, 6 studio albums, 25 million record sales, and only two changes to the line-up bring original members Liam Howlett, Keith Flint and Maxim to see out Pentaport’s decade of celebrations. It’s been six years between the release of ‘Invaders Must Die’ and new album ‘The Day Is My Enemy’. However with the top bill slot on the closing day, favorites from ‘Fat Of The Land’ and ‘Music For The Jilted Generation’ are a sure expectation.

Mew, who hail from Denmark, also perform from their latest album ‘+’ on the final day. The progressive, experimental rockers will play singles ‘Satellites’, ‘Water Slides’ and ‘Witness’ from their latest offering. London-based Mamas Gun, who have a huge fan-base in Asia, perform from their third album ‘Cheap Hotel’ which mixes a retro style with soul sounds to offer an alternative from the traditional rock outfits scheduled on the last day.

SEOTAIJI

9 th

The Prodigy

Ko r e an A rt i st s Aside from these acts, also look out for an amazing bill of Korean rockers. The Kim Chang Wan Band, which has made music since the 1970s, originally featured the well-known musician and actor Kim Chang Wan and his two brothers.

Unfortunately, tragedy struck in 2008 with the death of the younger brother, Chang Ik which led to the band’s hiatus. However, Chang Wan has since created his new band with comeback single ‘Darn It’ sure to be performed.

Seoulite Seo Taeji headlines the Saturday bill with his take on heavy metal and alternative rock. The singer, musician and songwriter has been performing since he dropped out of high school in a route which has seen him play in bands, as a solo artist and even becoming known as ‘the President of Culture’ amongst his adoring fans. Seo is also renowned for being one of the first to develop Korean pop culture in America in the 1990s and brings his latest collection ‘9th: Quiet Night’ to Incheon.

G r e at R o o k i e In addition to the billed program of music, Pentaport also supports local and new talent through their audition program ‘Great Rookie’. From auditions in May, thirty-two bands have been whittled down to one winner which will be showcased on one of the festival’s established stages. A competition not limited to only Korean artists, the last five years have also helped the winning bands with catapulting their careers both on and off the stage. The competition has run since the festival’s genesis in 2006 with past discoveries including Gukkasten, Jang Khia, Apolo 18, eastern Sidekick and Gogostar.

F e a r a nd L o a th ing in L a s V e ga s

Kim Changwan BAND

13steps

The Used

10CM

J Rabbit

MAMAS GUN

ENTERTAINMENT

Jannavi

EGO-Wrapping

The Kooks

MEW

Windy City

No.1 Korea and South Carnival

Pentaport spans ten years and there have been a few changes, outstanding names and some great times had in Incheon.

The Incheon Pentaport Rock Festival promises more of the same this August.

Venue

Stage

Songdo Fields

Dream Park, Incheon

2006

2007

Big Top, Mnet, Groove Session

Big Top, Pentaport, Groove Session

Headliners The Strokes,

Placebo, Franz Ferdinand

The Chemical Brothers, L’Arc en ciel. Muse

2008

Elle Garden, Trans, Underworld

2009

2010

2011

Pentaport, Dream, Groove Session No Brain, Deftones, Galaxy Express

Stereophonics, Hoobastank, Ian Brown

B.O.B, Korn, Simple Plan

Songdo International City 2012

2013

Pentaport, Dream, Lakeside

Pentaport, Dream, Moonlight

Baekousan, Snow Patrol, Manic Street Preachers

Deulgukhwa, Suede, Fall Out Boy

2015 Moonlight, Dream,

(specially theme stage)

Lee Seung Hwan, Kasabian, Travis

The Scorpions, Seo Taiji, The Prodigy

July 2015 www.groovekorea.com 47

MORE INFO The Incheon Pentaport Rock Festival takes place at the Incheon Songdo Free Economic Zone, Pentaport Park grounds between Friday 7th and Sunday 9th August.

Tickets are priced between 130,000-220,000 won.

Tickets: 1-day: KRW130,000, 2-day: KRW180,000, 3-day: KRW220,000 Tickets are available from Interpark (www.ticket.interpark.com/global), www.enticket.com (for Incheon citizens and soldiers) and www.doindie.co.kr Incheon Songdo Free Economic Zone, Pentaport Park, Incheon Transport: Incheon Business District Station (Incheon Subway Line 1) http://pentaportrock.com/#main www.facebook.com/pentaport/timeline?ref=page_internal

2014

48 www.groovekorea.com July 2015

Edited by Stewart McFeat (stewart@groovekorea.com)

ENTERTAINMENT

Sq u ar epusher W e m e et S q u a r e p u s h er , one of th e m o st i n n o v a t i v e el ec t r oni c m u sic p r o d u c e r s o f t h e p as t 2 0 y e a r s, a t S e o u l M u s eum of Ar t a nd w e t a l k a b o u t p r oc es s and performance.

Edited by Stewart McFeat (stewart@groovekorea.com)

T

July 2015 www.groovekorea.com 49

om Jenkinson, aka Squarepusher, has been a central figure in electronic music for the last two decades. Having produced over 15 albums and delivered radical changes between and within each work, Jenkinson’s preceding reputation for defying easy categorization is consolidated by a refusal to engage in the whims of others.

He is about to play upstairs in Seoul Museum of Art. Before I enter the basement room to meet him, I have a brief encounter with a staff member with “You always remember your first Doctor” emblazoned across his chest. The T-shirt alludes to the long-standing cult TV series Dr. Who, which was as much part of my early youth in the UK as Warp records, Squarepusher’s label, was part of my later youth. The comforting stasis of nostalgia is interrupted by thoughts on the TV hero’s wild trajectories across time and space; it’s some kind of dissonant repetition of the past. After a short, light exchange with Jenkinson about the series, we move into the rather more serious present.

ENTERTAINMENT

Story by Stewart McFeat Photos courtesy of Company F/HiFi

a t S E MA

50 www.groovekorea.com July 2015

Edited by Stewart McFeat (stewart@groovekorea.com)

ENTERTAINMENT

Groove Korea ‘GK’: This is your first time in Korea.

What did you anticipate?

SP: I didn’t anticipate anything. In the same way as I want people to approach my music, I don’t want people to come at it with preconceptions. I try to approach most things like that. I feel it’s the best way to apprehend what you’ve got in front of you rather than dealing with the conjunction of your preconception and the experience.

GK: So you would welcome people who don’t know anything about your music.

SP: Yes, I don’t see any reason to favor one over the other. I quite like the idea of someone coming to it for the first time — something that is obviously absolutely impossible for myself.

When I write music I sometimes fantasize about how it might sound as a first-time listener.

GK: On that point, are you slightly nostalgic? Do you find yourself going back to that time, to some of your earlier albums and thinking, “I like that.

I’m going to use that again.” Is there one that interests you right now?

SP: Nostalgia as a whole … I have to say, if anything, I’m against it. Retro music … I really don’t like it. I try not to get too hard and fast about any given approach because doubtless any approach can give rise to something interesting. I do feel that we are drowning in this rearview focus and it’s something that I wholeheartedly try to fight against.

GK: Some people talk about the jungle-heavy album “Hard Normal Daddy” as a benchmark in your work. Do you feel under pressure by fans and critics to return to an earlier stage in your career?

SP: From a listener’s point of view I understand all those desires and fantasies about what an artist might do next, but when it comes down to it, when I’m in the studio, all those concerns evaporate. I’m not interested in conforming to them. It sounds arrogant. I think it’s actually just honest. It’s straightforward I’m just doing what I think I should do.

of glory.

For me it’s abandoning the essence of what I take to be the fundamental things about human beings. Fluidity, change, spontaneity.

These are the things that make it quite special.

All I’m trying to do is do something with those attributes that I think are worthwhile.

GK: The new album “Damogen Furies” — that was recorded in one take without edits?

With the software system I’ve made myself … I could take the equipment which I use to write the music and the equipment that I use to record it and take it to the stage and it’s an identical set-up. There’s no compromise, there’s no cutting of corners. There’s no change at all in the tools from what you see in the studio to what you see on stage.

So I’m trying to move away from this horrible process of shaving bits off and removing degrees of freedom just in order to produce a live show.

GK: So it’s a live album?

SP: It is, yes. But think of it this way: the album is a product of the show rather than the other way around. This music for me was born out of the excitement of doing some-

thing at a show. The album is really a record of it. Quite literally “a record” and that’s how it stands. The point of this stuff for me was something to go out and do in a live context.

In all truth, when I was making all these pieces I had no thoughts about an album whatsoever in terms of a release. There was no focus on that. My plan was making music to go and play live. But conversations with other people and sitting back from it once a load of it was done I thought “Why not?” Let’s do it. But I try to release records only when it feels relevant. I’ve actually released a massive amount of records but I can honestly say I’ve only done it when I thought it was something that would contribute to culture as a whole and not be a repetition.

Wild white schisms of sound and 8-bit references work amid an anthemic phrase or two before anything discernable as crowd-pleasing collapses upon itself into another sonic provocation. In the frame of this concert, the lines keep being crossed and the limits keep shifting. Squarepusher has never produced music for people. He has always created music for what people have yet to become. It is a repetition, but it’s a repetition of the future.

“Damogen Furies” is out now on Warp records.

Groove thanks Company F for their help in arranging the interview and for a tremendous audio-visual show at SEMA on May 18.

July 2015 www.groovekorea.com 51

GK: We’ve been talking about the idea of looking back, but also this idea of consistency as an artist — as any kind of artist.

It’s that double-edged sword. If you have consistency you become predictable but you also become branded and marketable.

It seems to me that the pressure is not only commercial but also from within the artistic community.

SP: Yes. But I don’t … Those things don’t affect me. I don’t care about any of them. If anything, when I hear of a brand I just want to explode it. When I make a new record …

OK, in no genuine sense is there a clean slate.

I’ve always got the knowledge of things I’ve done before. I’ve always got that experience informing what I do next but I try as much as I can to approach it as a clean slate. That for me ties into trying to get away from branding.

It’s a straitjacket. It’s convenient for others, not just — as you say — from a commercial perspective. It lends a uniformity to what you’ve done. Personally, I see no value in that.

Given that it ties into a completely poisonous commercial process of boiling down a musician into a few prescriptive lines — which are supposed to encapsulate them — and then fed back into that artist to make that person regurgitate and keep repeating their moment

Edited by Stewart McFeat (stewart@groovekorea.com)

My idea of an artist is someone w h o ex p l o r es t h i ng s a nd r e a c he s o u t a nd b o r r o w s t h i ng s fr o m t he f u t u r e . SP

ENTERTAINMENT

GK: You can’t motivate yourself unless you are doing something that excites you?

SP: Precisely, the energy and enthusiasm quickly drains out of it and it feels like I’m wasting everyone’s time.

I don’t see the point.

The idea … I don’t wholeheartedly agree with the idea of an artist but that’s an approximation of the capacity in which I am presented to the public. My idea of an artist is someone who explores things and reaches out and borrows things from the future. I try to keep facing forward. That rear focus feels poisonous because it’s not only just regurgitating things from the past. That in itself has no harm associated with it, but it feeds into a mentality which is less able to face challenges.

It seems to me that the concept of the future is out of fashion and that’s quite a dangerous mentality for me. Given the challenges we are facing as a species, looking backward is not going to solve them.

The

Many Faces

Stree t, St age, St udio, or St ardom?

N

52 www.groovekorea.com July 2015

Edited EditedbybyChance StewartDorland McFeat(chancedorland@gmail.com) (stewart@groovekorea.com)

ENTERTAINMENT

Story and photos by Douglas Vautour

ice Legs, the golden gams of the Yogiga family and the indie junket, were made for walking. Heliac vocalist Lauren Walker (often known by her onstage persona, Lewtrakimou) and her partner-in-consonant-grime, the lo-fi mod-bassist Mark Lentz (who also has a strong presence under the stage name Henry Demos) originally came together about a year back while improv busking in the streets and parks of Hongdae.

While patting down strangers with their own improv skills and trademark slow and low sound (punctuated with the occasional riotous barrage), the duo were further fueled by ramen from their skill-gotten gains and started lugging their gear to the numerous stages around Hongdae.

It was there, while still largely an improv creation, that they unveiled a more polished repertoire of their pre-established sound. The reciprocal nature of their performances (actively feeding on the vitality of the crowd and releasing it back in a blaze of unaccustomed tempos and wildly thrown shapes) brought forth a progression into a newer, more energetic sound. This dichotomy then gained a sister when Nice Legs released their EP Lullaby Land in April 2014, blending together the stage and the street, planned and polished for the world to see. Busking, live or in the studio, this is a band with three different identities and three different sounds.

This is Nice Legs.

While also featuring session drummer Jonathan Jacobson, the creative force behind Nice Leg’s signature sound is its original two members. Groove Korea sat down with Lauren and Mark to learn more about these multiple personalities, how the location of a performance affects their sound, and the wonders of a spicy jalapeno pretzel. Which was delicious. And Nice Legs agreed.

“When you’re p erf orming on the stree t i t’s very raw and soul-bearing. I t’s st ill very much about exp ression and about that feeling of being almost like out in the w ild” (Lew ).

Groove Korea ‘GK’: What does performing on the street mean to you? What have those experiences been like?

L (Lauren): It was incredibly organic, and at that time, we always said it was us against the world. We didn’t know anything. We didn’t have any friends out there on the street, except for the people we met. We tried to live off the land sometimes, which was really fun. The other cool part was that when you’re performing on the street it’s very raw and soul-bearing. It’s still very much about expression and about that feeling of being almost like out in the wild.

M (Mark): I feel like when we’re playing on the street and there’s a full moon out, we become like werewolves.

L: Yeah, I really do feel like we’re different people up there.

M: We just really like to perform. And that’s almost the best place because, even if your sound isn’t very good, and no one really cares for your music, whether at first, or ever, who cares… it’s like playing to a club, where no one has heard of you and they don’t want to listen to you.

L: And then sometimes, little fairies come along and give you like, 10 bucks, or a coca-cola, and tell you they love you.

GK: Watching you perform on the street, it’s as if your emotions are right on your sleeve. Everything is close to the surface, like you’re on the verge of something…

M: It’s like you’re telling someone you love them for the first time, but you don’t even know them.

L: It is really emotional. Like we said, those are just strangers passing through, and they don’t like owe you anything and I really feel like Mark and I have to support each other because we are bearing it all; we’re naked.

“I w ouldn’t ever want t o list en t o some of our imp ro vs on rec ord, but live they’re p henomenal. And i t’s great that they exist, but only in that one small moment ” (Mark).

GK: You feel like three different bands. So, how do you bring that all together?

M: I don’t want to. I mean, I like recording in the lo-fi fashion, and we’ll never be able to capture that improv sound. And until we meet a producer who is willing to take the time to capture our live aesthetic, then it’s just kinda lost forever. That’s neat to me. It’s a lot like wearing costumes and we can be different people, and that’s pretty cool. I’m actually more comfortable knowing that we’re different because Lauren and I are different day to day.

One day she’s cranky and angry and another day she’s a blast. And one day I’m depressed and then the next… We have different people inside of us, and we can express that musically.

L: And it’s a blessing that we understand that about each other. He puts up with me and I put the f**k up with him.

MORE INFO www.facebook.com/wearenicelegs @wearenicelegs

Art

Gabriel Kuri Mon–Sat 10.00am–6.00pm; Sun, holidays 10.00am–5.00pm / Cost: Free Kukje Gallery 54, Samcheong-ro Jongno-gu Seoul 110-200 http://www.kukje.org

JULY

1-5

Kyungha Ham Mon–Sat 10.00am–6.00pm; Sun, holidays 10.00am –5.00pm / Cost: Free Kukje Gallery 54, Samcheong-ro Jongno-gu Seoul 110-200 http://www.kukje.org THU

JULY

2

Film

Tabu 7.00pm / Cost: Free Korean Film Archive 400 Worldcup buk-ro, Mapo-gu Seoul, 121-904 Korea http://www.koreafilm.org

MUSIC

Wated Johnny’s, Red Dot, Boys In The Kitchen, Sons of Tiger, The Veggers, DTSQ 7.00pm / Cost: KRW 10,000 Freebird 2, Mapogu Seogyodong 408-17, Hongdae

FRI

3

JULY

Film

Mouchette (English subtitles) 7.00pm / Cost: Free Korean Film Archive 400 Worldcup buk-ro, Mapo-gu Seoul, 121-904 Korea http://www.koreafilm.org SAT

JULY

4

Event

“Dog Bless America” dog pageant fundraiser followed by music from Shelbyville, Les Sales, Jesper, Dirty Work and Baekma 7.00pm / Cost: KRW 10,000 donation to Yangju Animal Shelter + free jello shot Phillies Basement 44-17 Yongsan-dong, 2 ga

Music

Genius, Say Sue Me, Kim & Lee, and AV 7.00pm / Cost: KRW 20,000 Gwangju, (https://www.facebook.com/pages/ 청년-문화-공감-부드러운-직선/103574016464661)

Film

High Anxiety 6.00pm / Cost: Free Korean Film Archive 400 Worldcup buk-ro, Mapo-gu Seoul, 121-904 Korea http://www.koreafilm.org TUE

JULY

7

Film

SUN

5

JULY

Foxcatcher 2.00pm / Cost: Free Korean Film Archive 400 Worldcup buk-ro, Mapo-gu Seoul, 121-904 Korea http://www.koreafilm.org/ma

July 2015 www.groovekorea.com 53

Coming up…

Gwangju Show: Nice Legs play with LoFiVision at the Salt Art Gallery in Gwangju on July 11th.

Seoul Show: Nice Legs play alongside Mineri, The Essence and Vidulgi Ooyoo at Club Bbang in Hongdae on July 18th.

Ant-Man General Release Cost: From KRW 6000 early bird price – KRW 30 000 (CGV Gold Class) General Release

Edited by Stewart McFeat (stewart@groovekorea.com)

GK: You mentioned your recordings. How would you describe the relationship between live and recorded?

M: It’s like having sex. Umm..yeah it’s like having sex.

L: Period.

M: It’s like having sex with someone because when we do improv, it’s a new thing. It’s unexplored territory and sometimes it’s good and sometimes it’s a win. And the other stuff… well, we know it and it works every single time. Live vs recorded… I wouldn’t ever want to listen to some of our improvs on record, but live they’re phenomenal. And it’s great that they exist, but only in that one small moment.

L: That’s my favourite part of being in a show because what we want to do is create an experience for people, create a memory. Also it’s fun for us, but that’s why we have costumes because everyone sees bands all the time, and I want to remember that moment, and I know other people do too. You’re here with your friends, and whatever happens to be playing, it’s unique to that moment. That’s very f**king cool to me and I hope it is to other people.

L: Also, I don’t like to overplay. For many reasons, I’d like to go short and sweet. People are happy, maybe they’re mad, but most people are happy.

M: Just as long as people don’t leave bored. They can leave angry for all I care…, just not bored.

TBA

Film

ENTERTAINMENT

GK: How does the performing on-stage differ from busking on the street?

L: I want to play like we’re busking, I love playing slow stuff. But at a show people expect us to be this ball of wild, crazy energy. And not to say we play to people’s expectations, but to some extent I think we do. And, the other reason we play slower and quieter when we’re busking is, because, it’s easier for me to come up with stuff if it’s slower. Unless I’m drunk…

M: Well, when we write music, it’s slow and methodical. It’s less about the moment and it’s more about what the moment could be later on. But when we’re playing improv, it is about right then and the emotion you have and that you have to spit it out. But I do think our recordings are just as raw. Like, emotionally. But they’re a different kind of emotion.

L: Yeah, there are some times where we play something that I think is just beautiful, and maybe I have said some lyrics that I liked, and that’s a blessing and a curse because it’ll never happen again. But then again, we will never be bored playing because every time it’s something new and (Mark) always surprises me and somehow we find new ways to do it every time.

JULY

Previews by Dean Crawford

54 www.groovekorea.com July 2015

Edited by Stewart McFeat (stewart@groovekorea.com)

ENTERTAINMENT

AT THE BOX OFFICE T H E B IG S C R E EN

Ant-Man

A

Dir. Peyton Reed

July TBA

side from the lukewarm critical reception to “Avengers: Age of Ultron,” Marvel’s output keeps getting better with each film. Phase 2 movies “The Winter Soldier” and “Guardians of the Galaxy” are arguably the best of the bunch.

“Guardians” in particular was a risky move by the studio as it contained lesser known characters and a relative unknown behind the camera. But it was funny, exciting and somehow made you care about a talking raccoon. With the success of “Guardians,” one might presume that it has paved the way for Marvel’s next risky project to succeed, which is “Ant-Man”.

The film follows petty thief Scott Lang (Paul Rudd) who, following the guidance of Hank Pym (Michael Douglas), must become the newest hero in the Marvel Cinematic Universe — the Ant-Man. With the aid of a special suit created by Pym, Scott is able to decrease in size but become as powerful as a speeding bullet. Using this technology, he must pull off a robbery that will save mankind from the villainous Yellowjacket (Corey Stoll from “House of Cards”).

With a premise this crazy, you would think that Marvel would enlist the services of a young director renowned for his exciting visuals and witty sense of humor — which they did in the shape of Edgar Wright (“Shaun of The Dead”) who had been working on the project in some capacity since 2003. Yet with the shoot months away, director Wright and co-writer Joe Cornish departed from the project due to “differences in their vision of the film.”

If the rumors are to be believed, Wright’s departure from “Ant-Man” was due to Marvel demanding several key changes to the premise and script that were at odds to the film Wright had been preparing for over eight years. With Marvel becoming the supernova it is, each film needs to be a product of its larger, connected universe and not stand out on its own. In came Peyton Reed (“Yes Man” and “Bring it On”) to take over from Wright with Anchorman’s Adam McKay handing in a new draft of the script. Stable names for a steady course, but I can’t help but feel deflated knowing that we may have gotten something truly special from Wright, rather than a safe introduction of Marvel’s newest Avenger.

WED, FRI

JULY

8,10

Film

The Tribe 8th: 2.30pm / 10th: 7pm / Cost: Free Korean Film Archive 400 Worldcup buk-ro, Mapo-gu Seoul, 121-904 Korea http://www.koreafilm.org

Music

City Beat Jeju - 1 Ticket 7:00 PM / Cost: KRW 30,000 Advance Ticket (5 Clubs, 24 Artists) Multiple locations in Jeju http://getcompany.kr/ticket/ticket_order. asp?search_idx=1097 SAT

11

JULY

10

Music

Shelbyville, Boys in the Kitchen, Les Sales, and Silica Gel 9:00 PM / Cost: KRW 10,000 Thunderhorse, Noksapyeong 220, HBC

“Second Saturdays” punk music show with The Kitsches, 57, Whatever That Means, Animal Anthem and Full Garage 9:30 PM / Cost: KRW 15,000 Club Ruailrock Mapogu Seogyodong 402-3

ART

Mission: Impossible - Rogue Nation

I

Dir. Christopher McQuarrie

Fernando Botero Mon-Sun: 11.00am-8.00pm Closed on the last Monday of the month.

Cost: Adults(Age 19~64) : KRW13 000 / Youth(Age 13~18) : KRW10 000 Kids(Age 6~12) : KRW8000 Kids(Age 36months-preschoolers) : KRW5000won Hangaram Art Museum at Seoul Art Centre 2406 Nambusunhwan-ro, Seocho http://www.sac.or.kr/eng/ SUN

JULY

12

Film

18

JULY

16-26

Music

Nice Legs with Mineri, The Essence & Vidulgi Ooyoo 7:00 PM / Cost: KRW 15,000 Club Bbang Mapogu Seogyodong 327-18 Hongdae Magna Fall + More 11:00 PM / Cost: KRW15,000 + 1 Hour Of Free Mixed Drinks FF, Mapogu Seogyodong 407-8 Hongdae

July 2015 www.groovekorea.com 55

JULY

11~

Genius and Lowdown 30 Double Release Show 6:00 PM / Cost: KRW 29,000 Advance Ticket Hyundai Card live at Understage

Bucheon International Fantastic Film Festival Cost: General Screening – KRW 6000 3D Screening – KRW 8000 Opening/Closing Ceremony : Midnight Screening – KRW 12 000 Bucheon City, Gyeonggi http://www.bifan.kr/eng/index.asp SAT

JULY

Music

J u l y 3 0 th

know a lot of people might look at Tom Cruise and only see a sofa jumping, Scientologist nut — an accusation which gained traction after the release of this year’s excellent HBO documentary “Going Clear” -— but to you, the good reader, I say “ignore the haters!” When I look at Tom Cruise, all I see is one of the few remaining bona fide movie stars who is committed to his craft and has time for his fans. An actor’s personal life shouldn’t affect your judgment of them. Unless that actor is Jaden Smith. Hate on him all you want.

After the poor box office returns of his last outing, “Edge of Tomorrow”, (which is a travesty considering it was one of the best films of last year) Cruise returns to safer pastures with the fifth installment of the ‘Mission: Impossible’ franchise, which sees the IMF face off against The Syndicate — a crooked organization hell bent on taking them down. Whether I’ve converted you to the Church of Tom Cruise or not, hopefully you can admire his dedication to his films and in particular his stunts. I thought the Burj Khalifa sequence from M:I-4 couldn’t be topped, but all signs are pointing to this being the biggest film in the franchise to date.

~Oct.4th

Edited by Stewart McFeat (stewart@groovekorea.com)

Pentasonic, Josh Rose and Phillip Balistriere 9:00 PM / Cost: KRW 5,000 Won Rocky Mountain Tavern 210 Itaewon-ro, Yongsan-gu

ENTERTAINMENT

JULY

FRI

56 www.groovekorea.com July 2015

Edited by Stewart McFeat (stewart@groovekorea.com)

ENTERTAINMENT

The

Bucheon International Fantastic Film Festival (BiFan)

Running for ten days from the 16th — 26th of July, Asia’s biggest genre film fest returns for its 19th edition.

Story by Simon McEnteggart Photos courtesy of BiFan

P

The festival will take place across five cinClosing the extravaganza will be the world premiere of Korean shamanist horror “The emas along the main strip of downtown BuChosen: Forbidden Cave”. Director Kim Hui’s cheon, with shuttle buses running regularly to macabre tale explores the world of psychol- transport cineastes between locations during ogist Jin Myeong, who is tasked with uncov- the scorching July heat. There will also be speering a long-held secret in order to exorcise a cial outdoor screenings taking place on the Grass Square arena adjacent to Bucheon City malevolent spirit from a client.

BiFan 2015 features a particularly large set Hall, as well as concerts and exhibitions.

Each year BiFan selects popular stars to beof programs for genre film enthusiasts. Competition category “Bucheon Choice: Feature” come a BiFan Lady and Guy to act as ambasshowing 12 films while the eclectic “World sadors for the festival. For its 19th edition acFantastic Cinema” is to screen a whopping tress Oh Yeon-seo (“A Blood Pledge”, “Shine or Promoting the themes of 52 titles, alongside “Vision Express, The Mas- Go Crazy”) and actor Gwon Yool (“Pieta”, “The ‘Love, Fantasy, Adventure,’ ters” which features work from Takeshi Miike, Admiral: Roaring Currents”) have been chosen BiFan 2015 boasts a larger Sono Sion and Kevin Smith, “Forbidden Zone” and will make appearances at various events selection of movies than through the festivities to meet with audiences. and the animation-orientated “Ani-Fanta”. ever before, through a On a more serious note however, BiFan Special programs include “I’m (not) Sono line-up of 235 films (145 Sion”, highlighting the Japanese maestro’s organisers have been forced to acknowledge features and 90 shorts) work by featuring classics including “Suicide that the recent outbreak of the MERS virus from 45 countries Club” (2002), “Love Exposure” (2009), and in Korea could affect the festival. While it is around the world, all his latest film “Tag” (2015). Meanwhile “K-in- extremely unlikely that the genre fest will be in celebration of genre die Genre Strikes!” and “Mexico Genre Film cancelled altogether, events could potentially films that audiences Showcase” will emphasize productions from be scaled down following a government antypically find difficult their respective industries, while the Korean nouncement due to take place in late June. to access.

For updates regarding the situation, it is Film Academy will explore the possibilities of 3D filmmaking in “KAFA+ Next D: 3D Once advised that cinema-goers check the official The festival will open with the come- Again.” A special retrospective on the films of website for information. dy “Moonwalkers” by director Antoine Bar- Hong Kong actor Simon Yam will also feature, MORE INFO dou-Jaquet. Set in London during swinging with the filmmaker personally selecting five Bucheon City, Gyeonggi sixties, the film follows the unlikely team-up titles along with one of his latest offerings.

General Screening – KRW6000 Science fiction films are the subject of “Bibetween a CIA agent (Ron Perlman) and a 3D Screening – KRW 8000 rock manager (Rupert Grint) sent to recruit Fan Classic,” allowing audiences to capture Opening/Closing Ceremony legendary director Stanley Kubrick in an at- the magic of Stanley Kubrick’s “2001: A Space Midnight Screening – KRW12 000 tempt to fabricate moon landing footage of the Odyssey” on the big screen as well as “Barwww.bifan.kr barella”, “Mad Max 2”, and “Contact”.

Apollo 11. romoting the themes of ‘Love, Fantasy, Adventure,’ BiFan 2015 boasts a larger selection of movies than ever before through a lineup of 235 films (145 features and 90 shorts) from 45 countries around the world, all in celebration of genre films that audiences typically find difficult to access.

Story by Marc Raymond

SAT

Symbolic Exchange of The Sensuous

JULY

25

Boys in the kitchen, Lay bricks, Mineri, Shelbyville, Teddy Boys 10:00 PM / Cost: KRW 10,000 + free drink Freebird2 Mapogu Seogyodong 408-17 Hongdae FRI-SUN

Music FESTIVAL

Ansan M Valley Rock Festival All day / Cost: KRW 150,000-KRW 260,000 Daebu Sea Breeze Theme Park, Daebu

Korean Film Archive Selection: “The Tribe”

WED

JULY

29

Music

FKA Twigs 9:00 PM / Cost: KRW85 000 Advance KRW95 000 on the door Yes24 MUV Hall, 1F 368-22 Seokyo-dong, Mapo-gu,121-893, Seoul http://www.fakevirgin.com/

Film

Mission: Impossible 5 General Release / Cost: From KRW 6000 early bird price – KRW 30 000 (CGV Gold Class) General Release FRI-SUN

AUGUST

7-9

24-26

THU

JULY

30

Festival

Incheon Pentaport Rock Festival All day / Cost: KRW 130,000-KRW 220,000 Incheon Songdo Free Economic Zone, Pentaport Park, Songdo, Incheon

MORE INFO July 8 at 2:30 pm & July 10 at 7:00 pm Notes – latecomers may not be permitted entry Korean Film Archive, 400 Worldcup buk-ro, Mapo-gu Seoul, 121-904 Korea Free www.koreafilm.org/main/main.asp

July 2015 www.groovekorea.com 57

This unusual stylistic approach is combined with a harsh and unsentimental view of this sub-culture, which is built on violence and exploitation (especially of women and their sexuality). There is certainly a temptation, especially given the title, to see this society as primitive, even closer to primate society (an early scene involving a fight between two characters, watched by a hooting crowd perched on bars, quite purposefully brings this to mind), and there are clichés about the innate violence of man that are gratuitously palpable. However, as different as this society is, it is still recognizably connected to our own world.

Furthermore, this world is hardly pure from outside influence, and one can equally read the film as being about the corrupting forces of society (for example, the treatment of money would not displease a Marxist).

In watching — or perhaps more accurately — experiencing the film, I was reminded of Andrew Solomon’s chapter on the deaf in his book “Far from the Tree”: “I always felt there was something about the signing deaf community that encourages a prolonged adolescence. It’s powerful as a way of experiencing yourself, but ultimately without power in the outside world.” In this way, “The Tribe” evokes other films about teenage subcultures, especially violent, male-dominated ones, such as “A Clockwork Orange” (which similarly uses a language we cannot always understand). What is most striking about the lack of subtitles is that it never becomes simply a gimmick. It also makes one wonder that if “The Tribe” does not need subtitles to communicate its meaning, do other foreign films not need them as well? By focusing on the subtitles, are we missing out on other types of meaning that are equally if not more important?

Edited by Stewart McFeat (stewart@groovekorea.com)

any films have been praised as being “unique” or even “one of a kind” but I can think of none that truly deserve this description like “The Tribe”. The film centers on a community of deaf teenagers living together at a boarding school in the Ukraine, and the first notable aspect is that the sign language in which they communicate is not subtitled, leaving the viewer to attempt to comprehend the film without the benefit of the symbolic dimension (unless you happen to understand Ukrainian sign language). The film is also a part of the recent “slow cinema” movement, with the average shot lasting over ‘Many films three and a half minutes in length, albeit with have been a number of elaborately staged tracking shots praised as that would be the envy of Martin Scorsese or being “unique” Paul Thomas Anderson. or even “one Despite this extremely deliberate editing style, “The Tribe” is dramatic and riveting and of a kind” certainly among the most exciting in the oeu- but I can vre of slow cinema. (The only film within this think of none grouping that compares in narrative tension that truly is the Romanian drama “Four Months, Three Weeks, Two Days”.). This is clearly connected deserve this to the strangeness of this world that may bor- description der on the voyeuristic. Yet I think the film is like “The successful overall in negotiating this very dif- Tribe”.’ ficult territory.

JULY

ENTERTAINMENT

M

Music

The NGO-ization

of the Kingdom of Cambodia

Story and photos by Christine Pickering Illustration by Vanessa Sae-hee Burke

I

Edited by Eileen Cahill (eileen@groovekorea.com)

I had the preconception that human rights work would be a lifestyle, a commitment that doesn’t end when you finish work at the office at 5 or 6 p.m.

T R A V E L

t’s May 30, 2014, and I’m facing a black metal barricade. Behind it, officers with riot shields are decked out in helmets and bullet-proof vests. On our side are monks in traditional saffron robes and human rights activists with megaphones. Journalists crouch down behind their cameras. International observers like me — recognizable by our blue vests and the identity cards hanging from our necks — monitor the protest on behalf of nongovernmental organizations and act as witnesses in case of police violence.

It’s the “Free the 23” protest in Phnom Penh. Back in January, 23 demonstrators were arrested in a crackdown against striking garment workers. The detainees are being denied medical care and access to legal aid. As well, there are serious concerns about due process and bias in the court proceedings.

All of a sudden the crowd cheers and protesters shout triumphantly into their megaphones. They share hugs and tears. I don’t need to understand Khmer to know what has happened: The 23 have been released.

As the victory march begins, a few of the activists take my hand and smile.

“Aw-koon,” one says to me in earnest, grabbing my hand tightly and looking into my eyes: “Thank you.” I am uncomfortable, and not just because of the heat. This isn’t my struggle; her gratitude is undeserved.

It was the second month of my four-month internship at a local human rights organization, the Cambodian Center for Human Rights based in Phnom Penh. Although the organization does good work and my overall experience there was very rewarding, the internship left me conflicted over the role of NGOs in Cambodia. I don’t question the importance of human rights work in general.

Rather, I question who benefited more from my work, Cambodians or me?

Lale Kuzu, former human rights intern

July 2015 www.groovekorea.com 59

As of 2015, there were almost 3,500 registered NGOs in Cambodia — the second-highest number per capita in the world. The list of problems facing the country is extensive: corruption, human rights and land rights violations, illiteracy, sexual exploitation. Accordingly, there has been a massive influx of short- and long-term NGO workers who aim to address these problems. NGOs operating in Cambodia, both international and local, offer a wealth of volunteer opportunities, internships, paid permanent positions and consultancies.

As a result, international workers enjoy unparalleled opportunities to tackle Cambodia’s economic and social problems and assist the local people, with varying degrees of effectiveness. They also enjoy better opportunities and a higher standard of living than they would have at home. High-level NGO positions are easier to obtain here than in New York, Geneva or London — these are attractive stepping stones for mid-level professionals trying to build up their CVs.

60 www.groovekorea.com July 2015

Edited by Eileen Cahill (eileen@groovekorea.com)

T R A V E L

Certain areas of Phnom Penh are especially attractive to NGO workers, including the strip south of Sihanouk Boulevard known as ‘NGO Alley.’ The cost of accommodations there is much higher than in other neighborhoods, and few Cambodians live in this area.

My fellow intern, Lale Kuzu, a British law student with a background in human rights activism, went to Phnom Penh with high ideals but left disillusioned. In the four months she spent in Cambodia, she met four NGO workers who had found work in other countries through contacts they had met in Phnom Penh. But professional advancement wasn’t our principal reason for going to Cambodia; both Kuzu and I had the naive hope that we could actually make a difference in four short months. We both found the NGO worker lifestyle off-putting.

“I had the preconception that human rights work would be a lifestyle, a commitment that doesn’t end when you finish work at the office at 5 or 6 p.m.,” Kuzu told me in an email after we had both returned to our respective countries. “(But) I found the expat bubble toxic,” she says. “Of course it shouldn’t be a case of not enjoying yourself at all if you’re working in this sector, but the (way) in which you enjoy yourself should align itself with the issues you are working for. It was very easy — and cheap — to go to an expat bar and forget the troubles and human rights abuses that you had encountered that day.”

Kuzu emphasized, despite everything else, how much she enjoyed working with and learning from Cambodian activists.

“To work in a country really gives you a real glimpse of the culture that you wouldn’t see as a tourist,” she said. But while she appreciated the chance to experience the inner workings of a grassroots NGO, Kuzu felt that she was not a human rights activist in Cambodia. She was a privileged Westerner, and that affected her working relationships. She now believes her internship did not serve its intended purpose: to improve the lives of Cambodians.

“I almost felt as if I was detrimental to that process,” she said.

The work she did — assessing how criminal trial proceedings measured up to international standards — could have been done remotely from the United Kingdom, she now believes. And her

presence in Cambodia may have inadvertently harmed the local people by driving up prices and creating demand for expat-oriented housing and entertainment facilities.

To attract experienced professionals, NGOs need to offer salaries that are competitive from a Western standpoint, but absurdly luxurious from a local standpoint.

The average annual income for Cambodians is approximately $750 (U.S. dollar equivalent); a paid international NGO worker will make at least this much, if not significantly more, per month. Indeed, the prevalence of international NGO workers has created demand for high-end expat establishments: There are restaurants, shops, clubs and bars frequented almost exclusively by internationals.

Certain areas of Phnom Penh are especially attractive to NGO workers, including the strip south of Sihanouk Boulevard known as “NGO Alley.” The cost of accommodations there is much higher than in other neighborhoods, and few Cambodians live in this area. Landowners realize that prices can be increased regularly, as expats will still be willing to pay, and locals are pushed out in what amounts to international gentrification.

Language is another barrier that separates average Cambodians from international NGO staff members. While plenty of local NGOs use Khmer as their official operating language, most NGOs require their staff members to have a working knowledge of English. This exacerbates class divides, as the majority of locals who can speak English are young, educated and middle-class. Expats and welloff Cambodians therefore fill the majority of highly coveted office staff positions; working-class Cambodians can perhaps aspire to lower-paid positions as drivers and security guards.

This is not to say that international NGO workers are not having any positive influence. Lawyers, doctors and human rights experts offer indispensable knowledge and experience; many also work in training contexts so that locals can improve

their skills. Many Cambodians appreciate the work of NGOs — often they are among the first responders in disasters, and the most vocal critics of government corruption. Notably, NGOs were instrumental in the reconstruction and development of the country after Pol Pot and the Khmer Rouge murdered roughly 2 million of the nation’s 8 million citizens in the 70s. The Cooperation Committee for Cambodia, a grassroots organization focusing on NGO

It seems obvious that centers staffed by transients — who are often untrained in child care, and rarely subject to criminal background checks — can’t meet children’s needs nearly as well as their own families. What if the funds funneled into Cambodian NGOs through voluntourism initiatives were instead spent on projects to help low-income families stay together? governance, reports that between 20 and 30 percent of the population benefits directly from the work of NGOs. But there’s an uglier side to the story, particularly in relation to certain NGO volunteer programs. “Voluntourism” is a $2 billion dollar industry whereby commercial organizations place well-meaning but usually unskilled individuals into volunteer positions — most commonly in orphanages or child care centers. Reports suggest that the steady influx of voluntourists is encouraging poor families to give up their children.

It seems obvious that centers staffed by transients — who are often untrained in child care, and rarely subject to criminal background checks — can’t meet children’s needs nearly as well as their own families. What if the funds funneled into Cambodian NGOs through voluntourism initiatives were instead spent on projects to help low-income families stay together?

And some children’s charities in Cambodia are little more than havens for abus-

July 2015 www.groovekorea.com 61

women, mainly in their 20s and 30s. Some are in casual wear and others are in suits or evening dresses. Many of the women wear high heels, an impractical option for a city with uncovered potholes and mostly unpaved roads — that is, unless you can afford to take a tuk-tuk (motorized rickshaw) or taxi everywhere.

Looking around the dimly lit room, the only Cambodians I see are the wait staff carrying trays of cocktails, wine and shots to booths filled with indifferent Westerners. Dozens of tuk-tuk drivers are parked outside, waiting to chauffeur Bouchon’s clientele home after a night of drinking.

A trip home for those living within a 10-minute drive costs the equivalent of $2 in U.S. currency; the drivers will likely try to charge $4, but will settle for $3 after a few minutes of heated bartering. Depending on the sector, that could equal a day’s salary for a local worker earning the minimum wage.

Bouchon’s clientele does not consist solely of NGO workers, but most of the people around me likely are NGO workers. After all, NGOs in Cambodia still represent one of the most lucrative and personally rewarding options for professionals and volunteers from all over the world.

Are Cambodia’s NGOs effective? For the amount of money spent — and the amount over the past few decades has been astronomical — are NGOs truly bettering the communities in which they work?

The answer to that question depends on whom you ask. Some will argue that NGOs have been incredibly successful in removing landmines, implementing sound HIV/AIDS prevention programs, and exposing high-level corruption. Others will point to the allegations of fraud, abuse, failure to protect beneficiaries, and a lack of accountability, or claim that they are simply not effective.

Either way, NGOs will continue to play a large role in Cambodian society. And for better or for worse, the affluent internationals they attract are here to stay.

Edited by Eileen Cahill (eileen@groovekorea.com)

completely change how they live their life because of their experiences,” she says.

Although Johnson remains conflicted about her two short-term stints in Cambodia, even likening voluntourism to a form of neo-colonialism, she speaks positively about one of her trips.

“We helped with a community library project doing some basic construction work,” she says. “They hired local staff to do the labor and we essentially were their assistants, making concrete, fetching bricks and getting water. We spent a lot of time with the founder of the organization, learning about the community and Buddhism, as he is a Buddhist monk.”

In that instance, Johnson believes that interaction with foreign volunteers helped the local people indirectly through relationship building.

“A disease broke out in (the) community a year after I first went, and my team was able to raise enough money to send the community members who needed it to the hospital,” she says. “While this is obviously not a sustainable solution, it was able to provide temporary aid until (the founder) was able to fill this need himself with a medical clinic.”

Vichheka Sok, a former communications officer with World Vision Cambodia, assesses the impact of expat staff members on her organization as both good and bad. She describes the expats she worked with as committed and open-minded — most, she says, treated local staff members well and contributed valuable knowledge and skills. She is more skeptical of short-term volunteer programs, however, saying expat volunteers should have clear objectives and those who want to work with children should undergo criminal background checks.

I am sitting in Bouchon, a French wine bar in the heart of Phnom Penh, after a long day at work. A few other interns are with me and are arguing heatedly over whether NGO work should focus primarily on securing human rights or on meeting basic needs. My attention wanes, and I stare at the clientele — Western men and

T R A V E L

ers and predators: Two well-known orphanages were recently shut down when it was discovered that they were purposely keeping children in pitiful conditions in order to garner more tourist dollars. Even more reprehensibly, the Phnom Penh Municipal Court sentenced the American director of one such orphanage to a year in prison for sexually abusing five Cambodian boys in 2014.

Other short-term volunteer opportunities in Cambodia involve such work as building schools and houses, teaching adults, or caring for elephants. But these volunteer programs can harm the communities they are supposed to help by taking much-needed jobs away from local people. And if a volunteer is not qualified to work in construction or education in her home country, why does she suddenly feel qualified to do so in Cambodia?

One argument for these programs is that they bring money into the local economy and make Western participants more aware of their privilege. The flipside is that they also involve flaunting privilege: Some international volunteers pay thousands of dollars for a weeklong trip. They work in these communities for recreation — perhaps as a short stopover on a vacation to visit the famed temples of Angkor Wat — but for the local residents, this is life. Locals are acutely aware that they will never have comparable opportunities in the visitors’ countries, and this reinforces a dynamic of benevolent “haves” vs. hapless “have-nots.”

Sarah Johnson, a former trip leader for the Global Youth Volunteer Network, which places volunteers with NGOs in Cambodia, acknowledges feelings of guilt over her privileged status when she was in Cambodia. Looking back, Johnson says in an email interview that she’d like to see a transformation of the voluntourism industry, with two-sided programs that focus more on cultural exchange. Despite that, she says existing programs differ widely and critics shouldn’t paint them with a broad brush.

“I have seen team members on my trips

Excitement reaches its peak for 2015 Gwangju Universiade The World Student Games comes to South Korea for the THird time and it promises to be bigger and better than ever.

Story by Luke Butcher at waegukinsports.com / Photos courtesy of FISU

62 www.groovekorea.com July 2015

Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)

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wangju plays host to over ten thousand of the best student athletes from around the world starting July 3rd in the 2015 Summer Universiade. From athletics to golf, football to water polo, the very best young talent will gather for 21 sports in Jeonnam province’s largest city. The 28th Universiade will take advantage of Gwangju’s rich history and updated facilities to produce what promises to be one of the biggest and most successful gathering to date.

For sports fans, the Universiades (also called the World Student Games) usually provide an excellent barometer of how the young athletes are progressing. Incredibly, 48% of all Olympic medallists are also Universiade medallists, and at the last Olympics in London, 154 former Universiade medallists won 174 Olympic medals in 21 sports. They included Cullen Jones, the first African-American swimmer to win a Universiade medal in swimming and one of the stars of the all-conquering American 4x100-meter relay team in the pool in Beijing and London. For South Korea, badminton hero Lee Yong-dae returns having already medaled in both the student and the main Olympics. If you want to know who the stars of Rio and beyond will be, Gwangju is the place to be this month.

But it is not only future stars in action. A number of already notable athletes are participating, and no-one will please the local crowd more than Gwangju native “god of

the vault” Yang Hak-seon, the first South Korean gymnast to win an Olympic gold. Other top athletes carrying the weight of expectation from the home crowd will be gymnast Son Yeon-jae, who won gold at the Asian Games last year and archery queen Ki Bo-bae. The organizing committee has promised that the games will feature “next-generation athletes, many of whom are expected to compete at the 2016 Rio Olympics.”

Thousands of athletes from far and wide will be flying in with the rules allowing 17 to 28 year olds who have not been out of university for more than a year to compete. Both the USA and Canada are sending record numbers, including the basketball team from the University of Kansas, also known as the Jayhawks. One country which will be missed from the events will be North Korea, which decided to renege on its planned participation late in the day. Having won as many golds as the United Kingdom in the last games in Kazan, the absence of the isolated nation will be as keenly felt on the podium as in the political realm.

This will be the second time that South Korea has hosted the summer games, the last being in Daegu 12 years ago.

This time out, the games will be even bigger than before.

“The games will feature nextgeneration athletes, many of whom are expected to go and compete at the 2016 Rio Olympics” Gwangju Universiade Organizing Committee

July 2015 www.groovekorea.com 63

MORE INFO http://www.gwangju2015.com/ Tickets available from: www.gwangju2015.com/ticket/ 1670-2015 (The call center will have English, Chinese, Japanese, Spanish, and German services available from June 26) You can read more of Luke Butcher at www.waegukinsport.com

Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)

effect on the host city as well as the athletes. Around 95% of the facilities used this month are existing ones that have been upgraded to meet international standards. For example, the Nambu University swimming pool has been refurbed to be the most advanced in the country. But nothing looks more impressive on paper than the athlete’s village.

Situated within a stone’s throw of the World Cup stadium, where most of the main events will take place, it will be the high-tech home of the athletes for the duration of their stay and will be returned to green private housing when the Games are over.

The opening ceremony takes place on Friday, July 3, with actor Joo Won, singer U-Know Yunho from TVXQ, and popera singer Lim Hyung-joo leading a line-up that celebrates the theme “Light Up Tomorrow.” The two week event will conclude with a Super Sunday on the last weekend, when 14 athletics medals will be awarded alongside the badminton golds. That weekend will also see the conclusion of the big team sports such as football, baseball, and basketball before the closing ceremony on Tuesday, July 14.

By the time the closing ceremony rolls round, 272 gold medals will have been awarded and many athletes will have tested themselves against the best in the world. The road to Rio for some reaches a significant marker point on July 3 in Jeonnam province. Head on down for some of the best summer action.

SPORTS

In terms of scale, Gwangju’s Universiade will be five times the size of the Sochi Winter Olympics, with 14,000 athletes from 152 countries performing in 69 venues across the province. This is no small operation.

However, one of the unique elements of these games is their cost effectiveness. Gwangju will host the games at the fraction of the cost compared to Sochi or the Incheon Asian Games. But don’t expect the competition to be any less fierce. Expect the athletics and basketball to be the most hotly contested, in addition to archery, badminton and taekwondo, where the hosts are likely to be most successful.

The favorites on paper will be Russia and China, who have effectively alternated first place in the medal table over the past decade. The 2013 games, hosted in Kazan, saw the Russians delight the home crowd by eclipsing their rivals, scoring as many medals as the next five countries combined. South Korea usually also places in the top five and sits seventh in the historical medal table, but Western European nations and the USA have rarely threatened the top of the leader board. The increased American presence could see that balance shift.

Hosting the Universiade has historically had a long-term

Something for the

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Spectators

uly can be a touch quieter for sports on the peninsula as many take a breather due to the summer heat (or the MERS outbreak). However, there are still plenty of events for the dedicated spectator to enjoy on the big screen. Groove Korea got in touch with some of the finest sports bars in Seoul to find out where you can quench your thirst, quell your hunger, and get a close view of the summer sports action from both home and abroad.

Beer O’Clock

Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)

SPORTS

Story by Chuck Rudderham / Photos courtesy of Beer O’Clock

B

eer O’Clock (BOC) in Shinchon has been a neighborhood favorite hangout for watching sports since opening in 2009. Multiple games are shown every night, with hockey (NHL), football (NFL), and baseball (MLB) being the most popular. BOC also has nightly deals throughout the week on food and drink with seating for 60 people. There are two screens that are always on, and a larger screen is available for major events. At certain times, the bar will show two different games at once. English commentary is usually played during the NFL season and can also be requested for bigger events. BOC also shows the previous nights’ games, so please DO NOT spoil the results if coming to watch a replay; even better, stay away from the internet and Facebook to enjoy the games as if they were live.

Major events shown live include the Superbowl, the Olympics (mostly hockey), NCAA football and basketball, the Rugby World Cup, and weekly EPL games. It is best to ask at the bar if it will definitely be open for a specific sporting event. BOC has shown cricket, women’s soccer, boxing, tennis, Korean baseball and basketball, among many others. Don’t be afraid to ask; if we can get it, we will show it.

MORE INFO www.beeroclock.ca beeroclockkorea (02) 333-9733 Monday to Friday, 6:00pm until late Weekends, 5:00pm until later Subway: Shinchon Station (Line 2 exit 1)

Wolfhound Bar

64 www.groovekorea.com July 2015

T MORE INFO wolfhoundpub.com facebook.com/WolfhoundPub wolfhoundpub@gmail.com Monday to Friday 4pm to 1:30pm Weekends 11am to 2:30am Subway: Itaewon Station (Line 6, Exit 4).

Story by Ciaran Doherty / Photos courtesy of the Wolfhound

he Wolfhound Bar has been a mainstay of the Irish community since 2006 and has recently undergone refurbishment to allow for even more space to watch your sporting heroes. The newly kitted out second floor now has more seating and six screens to watch live events, replays, and highlights packages.

Our new satellite box package can show every Sky Sports channel, as well as all Irish channels like RTE and TG4, meaning Wolfhound can screen almost every hurling and Gaelic football game. If there are two games on at the same time or another sport, one can be shown through the satellite box and the other using a stream. We are especially looking forward to showing live Barclays Premier League games once the season starts again in August and the Rugby World Cup in September.

Every Sunday we have Cider Sunday special offers, with KRW 1,000 off all cider. During the big G.A.A matches, other promotions are also available. Check out our Facebook page for further details such as discounted Guinness, our two-for-one Tuesday Fish and Chips or house doubles. With the Gaelic Games season in full swing, it’s a great time to head down for a pint and take a look at the action.

Beer O’Clock (BOC) in Shinchon has been a neighborhood favorite hangout for watching sports since opening in 2009.

Sin Bins offer 11 LED full HD TV’s and a full HD box (which transmits a full HD signal).

The Wolfhound Bar has been a mainstay of the Irish community since 2006 and has recently undergone refurbishment to allow for even more space to watch your sporting heroes.

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Gwangju Universiade

3-14

14,000 student athletes from around the World All day Gwangju and surrounding locations

Seoul Gaels GAA training

Seoul Gaels Men’s and Ladies’ Gaelic Football teams / Hurling and Camogie teams 2pm to 6pm Yongsan Army Base SAT

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5

2015 Sorak National Triathlon

Individual triathletes up to 70 plus years old 7am start Sokcho Cheongchoho Amusement Park

IFAF World Cup (International American Football)

Australia vs. South Korea 12pm local time/ Canton, Ohio. United States http://ifafworldchampionship.org/schedule SAT

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Seoul Gaels / Daegu Fianna / Loachra Busan.

Start Time 10am- Finish 5pm with an after-party from 8pm ‘til late Namyangju Sports Center (Near Donong Station, Jungnang Line + Route 66/ Wolfhound, Itaewon)

Women’s open mat practice 3pm to 5pm Body and Seoul in Itaewon

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9-18

3rd Round of the GAA Championship + Hurling exhibition and under-age games

Brazilian Jiu Jitsu Open Mat

WED

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Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)

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Barclays Asia Trophy Semi-finals Everton vs. Stoke / Arsenal vs. Singapore Select XI 6pm and 8.30pm local time Singapore National Stadium

Barclays Asia Trophy Third / Fourth place play-off and Final Everton / Stoke / Arsenal / Singapore Select XI 6pm and 8.30pm local time Singapore National Stadium

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July 2015 www.groovekorea.com 65

MORE INFO https://www.facebook.com/sinbin.sportspub sinbinsportspub@gmail.com Varies but Monday to Friday 5pm to 1am Weekends 1:30pm to 2-3am.

Subway: Itaewon Station (Line 6, Exit 4).

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EVERY SAT

SAT & SUN

SUN

t Sin Bins, we try to focus on promoting the big events, such as the World Cups, The Rugby Championship, the Super 15, playoff games and the State of Origin series. Rugby is a big draw for us at the moment with the State of Origin and the Southern Hemisphere Rugby Championship coming up. Of course, we also focus a lot on North American sports when their seasons start. For example, we typically open for the Super Bowl at 6am on Monday morning, and stay open for 24 hours straight that day.

There are also numerous food specials on during the week. On Mondays, enjoy some half price chicken wings and boneless wings.

Tuesday’s KRW 5000-8000 personal pizzas (11-12 inches each) are good for sharers or for the whole game. Wednesday’s half price burgers and Thursday’s half price meatball platters and 4-cheese spinach dip complete the special’s list; the perfect accompaniment for any evening viewing. Premium singles are also specially priced at KRW 3000 from 5pm-7pm Monday-Thursday. We also do other promotions for different events: for instance, a couple of weeks ago, KRW 5,000 won VB bottles were on special for the first State of Origin game.

There are 11 LED full HD TV’s and a full HD box (which transmits a full HD signal). Commentary for the games is never a problem, and can be played for sports enthusiasts. Expect multiple games or events on different screens around the stadium-style seating that holds approximately 120 patrons and provides a comfortable viewing experience.

except the 11

T.B.C. T.B.C. Sin Bin Sports Bar Itaewon

Korea Touch Association Check for details 11am start Jamwon Pitch Apgujeong https://www.facebook.com/koreatouch

Story by Jason Braedon / Photos courtesy of Sin Bins

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JULY

Watch the Super 15 Grand Final

Touch rugby games

Sin Bins Sports Bar

EVERY SAT

Building up to the ultimate race

A triathlete’s guide to getting started

66 www.groovekorea.com July 2015

Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)

SPORTS

Story and photos by Johan Stofberg

The Set-up

The Swim

The thinking behind committing to triathlons isn’t much different to any other challenge; set a goal and stick to it. Registering and paying for a race forces you to get outside and train - even if it’s just going for a run every day. It is also a good idea to keep it simple equipment-wise in the beginning. The cost of new gear can seem daunting, but you don’t need the best equipment to finish a race. Either borrow from a friend or rent from a shop for your first triathlon. As you grow into the sport, you can buy what’s needed. This also gives you time to research the products available and avoid buyer’s remorse from too hastily picking up your first branded wetsuit or cycling shoes.

Training-wise, numerous plans can be found free online on various triathlon websites.

Printing out a plan means knowing what to do each day and how to fit it around your daily schedule. I had a goal for every training session, whether it be swimming, cycling or running. Start short and easy and build every week. You can also consider joining a club to get more support, training tips, and help with race registration. Being part of a club can also make the triathlon journey much more fun. The cycling and triathlon club Seoul Synergy offers a lot of assistance, especially in terms of race administration, which allows me to focus on training and the racing itself.

The usual swim distance for triathlon races ranges from 750 m for the sprint to 3,800 m for a full Ironman. Get used to swimming longer distances without resting and try to get out in the open water. This might be difficult in most areas, but a swimming pool at a gym will be sufficient for training. However, it is best to get some coaching when you’re part of a club. Seoul Synergy has sessions almost every weekend where members train together and get a lot of advice and coaching. Races are usually in a lake or in the sea and so are totally different from the pool environment. When training in a pool, if you find lots of people in your lane, see it as an advantage. In a triathlon, there’s usually quite a crowd and it’s easy to get scared at first if you are not used to people accidentally hitting, pulling, or swimming over you. It’s all part of the fun of the sport.

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When training in a pool, if you find lots of people in your lane, see it as an advantage.

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21st Seolbong Triathlon Championships

Individual triathletes (Closing date for application is July 7).

7.30am start Icheon, Gyeonggi Seolbong Amusement Park

ROAD Fighting Championship 024

MMA and former Pride fighters including Riki Fukuda and Choi, Hong-man.

From 7pm Ariake Colliseum, Tokyo.

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On your bike

The run Start off with easy runs - a maximum of 40 minutes - especially if you’re starting from scratch, and add only 10% to your effort or run time every week of training. Doing too much too soon can easily lead to injuries. This happened to me when I started off. I was eager, and this led to a lot of injuries in my knees and feet. I learned my lesson the hard way and had to take a break from running to recover and start again building slowly. Do some brick sessions (meaning going for a run immediately after a cycling session) at least once a week. The run does not need to be long: 20 to 30 min after cycling is enough. This will help with getting used to running on tired legs. Since the run is the last leg of the three in a race, these brick sessions play a key part in building strength for the run as starters may need to get used to their legs feeling a bit like jelly for the first 1-2 km of a run.

If you feel sick or extremely tired, take some rest. Rest is the most essential part of recovery. Going into a training session too tired can do more harm than good. This is important especially for a hard working professional. Balancing work, family, friends and then training on top of that creates a lot of physical and emotional stress which can negatively affect the entire body. Going back to what I mentioned earlier, good planning will help you get proper rest. Recovery should not be something that you do if you have time; it is an essential part of your training plan. Put it in your diary and follow it.

The most important point of all of this is to have fun. This is a sport that can change your life for the better by allowing you to become healthy, learn about yourself, and make new friends.

It’s not only about the end result or reaching your goals, but also about the journey and adventure you have in doing so. So, get out there and enjoy!

MORE INFO: Seoul Synergy www.seoulsynergy.com www.facebook.com/groups/seoulsynergy.fb/ Johan is happy to answer any triathlon-related questions.

His email is stofbergtri@gmail.com

Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)

Pacing Yourself

SPORTS

The bike is the longest and most important leg in a race and frequent training increases endurance and fitness quickly. Cycling is a great way of building that fitness without putting too much physical stress on the body.

Buying a new bike can be a challenging affair because there are so many options. Do some research on the internet and go to local cycling shops to know what to look for in a bike. Get one that’s right for you because you may be keeping it for a very long time. A proper pair of cycling shorts is also vital to help with cushioning on the hard saddle. Sitting on such a small seat for hours while cycling can mean a lot of pain the next day, but it’s something to get used to. Buy a helmet that fits comfortably and not the first or cheapest one available. As it’s going to be worn for hours on the bike, you don’t want the helmet to irritate you the whole ride just because the fit is not right.

Pedaling with cycling shoes is more effective because you can also pull with your cleats. Be sure, of course, to get shoes that fit you correctly. Practice clipping in and out before cycling as it’s easy (and embarrassing) to fall over if you forget to clip out before stopping. Ultimately, it’s all about cycling with as much comfort as possible. Every cycle session teaches the triathlete something new - learning by doing is usually the best way to develop on the bike.

68 www.groovekorea.com July 2015

Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)

SPORTS

Story by Erica Haldi / photos by J. Resto Photography

Come for the soccer, stay for the people Wolf hound Rove r s g i ve the l a d i e s so m et h i n g to p l ay fo r

W

hen current Wolfhound Rovers assistant manager AJ Specht moved to Seoul in 2013, she was on the lookout for a recreational women’s soccer league.

Having played in high school in Ontario, Canada, she was eager to get back onto the field and meet other women with similar interests.

Searching online and asking friends yielded nothing; for women looking to play soccer just for the love of it, the options were limited. As a result, Specht was inspired to turn to Facebook and – along with two other founding members, Maegan Fontyn (Canadian) and Sena Bak (Korean) – get to work organizing and promoting Korea’s only international women’s recreational soccer team.

It was important to the team’s founders that the club’s name reflect the spirit of the team’s creation. “Rovers” was thus chosen to represent not only the adventurous traveler in each of the players, but also their ability to play anywhere on the field. The objective of the team was not only to have fun, but also to continue developing on the pitch. The team quickly found an enthusiastic sponsor in the Wolfhound Irish Pub, and embarked on its first season in the spring of 2014.

With three successful seasons now under its

belt, the team is still growing and is as diverse in nationality as it is in age. Players ranging from ages fifteen to forty-five from the United States, Canada, France, New Zealand, the UK, Korea, Indonesia, and Singapore have called the Rovers their team since its inception. Their

“People ask me how competitive we are as a team and I tell them this: The team is as competitive as the players are committed.”

Assistant manager, team captain, and goalkeeper Jessica Bremer, English teacher from the USA.

reasons for getting involved are many: to stay in shape, to meet other like-minded people, to practice English, or to explore different parts of Seoul. For most, a simple love of soccer has built the friendships and camaraderie that has brought many back each season. Agnes

Natalia, a graduate student from Indonesia, talks about the feeling of family when playing against other sides, while Cheryl Halverson from Canada explains how playing for the club last season “was truly the highlight of my week.” Many of last year’s group can’t wait to get back out on the pitch.

Wolfhound Rovers FC also seeks to provide a healthy outlet where players both old and new to the sport are encouraged to get physically fit together. Though playing in a Korean women’s league is an option not yet available to them, the Rovers pride themselves on the fact that they have made contact and built relationships with Korean teams in and around Seoul. Many of these match-ups have been made possible through the work of dedicated member Isak Hwang, who has reached out to teams throughout Seoul to organize matches.

Regular fixtures mean consistent opponents and provide opportunities for meaningful cultural exchange while reinforcing a positive and healthy international sports community.

Collaboration with other women’s teams has increased the visibility of women’s soccer in a country where it has an incredibly low profile.

With the Korean women’s national team currently playing in the 2015 Women’s World Cup in Canada, the team feels that the promotion of female soccer in Korea is now more important than ever.

The fall 2015 season begins in late August and will run through to November. For those arriving in Korea in September and looking to connect with a soccer club, it won’t be too late to get involved. The Rovers are always looking for new players and volunteers to assist the team in various roles (coach, media director, social outreach, equipment manager, and “liaison to Korean teams,” to name a few).

Do you know of a team that the Rovers could play? They want to hear about it. Teams from all over Korea are encouraged to make contact; as the Rovers label implies, proximity to Seoul is not essential. The small and mighty stature of the team allows for plenty of creativity and flexibility when it comes to activities and team travel. Being flexible is one aspect of the team that makes a commitment of 12 weeks or more possible for its diverse set of players and their busy lives. As coach Erica Haldi likes to say, “Come for the soccer, stay for the people.”

SPORTS

You’ll find the Rovers on the field on Saturday afternoons at various locations throughout Seoul. Catch up with them post-game at the Wolfhound in Itaewon, where they draw up battle plans for the following weeks, celebrate special occasions, and track individual progress in the season-long exercise competition.

Assistant team manager and captain Jessica Bremer believes that the team “is as competitive as the players are committed.” Realizing they will only get out of the season what they put into it, dedication is key to fostering the spirit that encapsulates any successful side.

Cheryl Halverson, English teacher from Canada.

July 2015 www.groovekorea.com 69

“Playing for the Wolfhound Rovers each Sunday was truly the highlight of my week. Thank you ladies for a wonderful season!”

Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)

MORE INFO wolfhoundrovers@gmail.com www.facebook.com/groups/wolfhoundrovers

Barclays Asia Trophy Coming to Singapore

Three Premier League sides head east for pre-season kicks

Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)

SPORTS

Story by Liam Ring / Photos courtesy of Getty Images and The Premier League

70 www.groovekorea.com July 2015

S

ummer holidays typically bring the opportunity to head for beaches, music festivals, and culture. For the committed football fan though, a sixhour flight to Singapore can offer far more than just trips to the Raffles bar and over-priced hotel rooms this summer. With Arsenal, Everton and Stoke bringing their squads to Asia for the biennial Barclays Asia Trophy, it’s an ideal opportunity for Premier League watchers to catch the very best as Mesut Ozil, Romelu Lukaku and … err… Peter Crouch limber up for another BPL season.

The seventh edition of the tournament hits Singapore for the first time, after half of the previous editions were held in Hong Kong. As the only Premier League sanctioned tournament outside England, the competition seeks to take advantage of

the huge interest in the league from Asian fans. Previous winners include Chelsea and Manchester City, showing that there is an eagerness among the Premier League’s heads to see major clubs take part. Played over two days, Wednesday the 15th sees semi-finals followed by the third/fourth placed play-off and final on Saturday the 18th. Both are evening kickoffs timed for 6pm and 8.30pm local time for a double-header of football. The venue will be the newly built, 55,000 seater National Stadium which only opened last year, with double-header tickets priced from S$105 for Wednesday matches and S$115 for Saturday games (approximately 90,000 won). A steep cost for the casual fan, but with plenty of interest across the continent a near sell-out is expected considering the near capacity crowd at the last event in Hong Kong.

For the committed football fan though, a six-hour flight to Singapore can offer far more than just trips to Raffles bar and over-priced hotel rooms this summer.

SPORTS

Getting there China Eastern and Air Asia both fly to Singapore and offer reasonably priced tickets though there is a stopover in Kuala Lumpur. Korean Air and Asiana both fly direct, with many websites and travel operators offering flight and hotel package deals.Your football fix doesn’t need to be limited to television or domestic action this summer. Maybe it’s time to grab your passport?

July 2015 www.groovekorea.com 71

A Singaporean Select XI made up of players largely from a national team ranked by FIFA in the mid-hundreds round out the tournament and will no doubt be thrilled at the chance to face some of the best in the game. History isn’t siding with the Singaporeans as a local outfit hasn’t beaten a Premier League club in the tournament since the Thai national team edged out Everton on penalties in the 2005 edition.

In addition to being Arsenal’s debut in the tournament, it is the club’s first time in Singapore since the early 1990s. The FA Cup winners are planning a quiet pre-season travel-wise with the Singapore trip their only matches outside the United Kingdom as they prepare for their own Emirates Cup tournament the following weekend. This is a decision echoed by fellow debutants Everton, who will be hoping a much-vaunted new pre-season fitness plan set out by manager Roberto Martinez will help avoid the slow start to last season which even had whispers of relegation before the side got their form together after the New Year. Stoke will be the busiest travelers this summer with the Singapore tournament followed by a trip to Cologne for the Colonia Cup pre-season competition in early August.

Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)

In addition to being Arsenal’s first time in the tournament, it is the club’s first time in Singapore since the early 1990s.

LISTINGS

Edited by Sean Choi (sean@groovekorea.com)

EMBASSIES American Embassy (02) 397-4114 • 188 Sejong-daero, Jongno-gu, Seoul Canadian Embassy (02) 3783-6000 • (613) 996-8885 (Emergency Operations Center) Jeongdonggil (Jeong-dong) 21, Jung-gu, Seoul British Embassy (02) 3210-5500 • Sejong-daero 19-gil 24, Jung-gu, Seoul Australian Embassy (02) 2003-0100 • 19th fl, Kyobo bldg., 1 Jongno 1-ga, Jongno-gu, Seoul Philippine Embassy (02) 796-7387~9 • 5-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

Novotel Ambassador Gangnam (02) 567-1101 • 603 Yeoksam 1-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

Seoul Samsung Hospital 1599-3114 • 50 Irwon-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

Grand Hilton Seoul (02) 3216-5656 • 353 Yeonhui-ro, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul

Asan Medical Center 1688-7575 • 88 Olympic-ro 43-gil, Songpa-gu, Seoul

Somerset Palace Seoul (02) 6730-8888 • 85 Susong-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul

Keimyung University Dongsan Medical Center (053) 250-7167 (7177 / 7187) • 56 Dalseong-ro, Jung-gu, Daegu

Park Hyatt Seoul (02) 2016-1234 • 606 Teheran-ro, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Lotte Hotel Busan (051) 810-1000 • 772 Gaya-daero, Busanjin-gu, Busan Park Hyatt Busan (051) 990-1234 • 51, Marine City 1-ro, Haeundae-gu, Busan 612-824, Korea

Airlines Korean Air 1588-2001 Asiana Airlines 1588-8000

Yongsan Intl. School (02) 797-5104 • San 10-213 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Seoul Intl. School (031) 750-1200 • 388-14 Bokjeong-dong, Sujeong-gu, Seongnam, Gyeonggi-do Branksome Hall Asia (02) 6456-8405 • Daejung-eup, Seogipo-si, Jeju Island Daegu Intl. School (053) 980-2100 • 1555 Bongmu-dong, Dong-gu, Daegu

Dulwich College Seoul

Garuda Indonesia (02) 773-2092 • garuda-indonesia.co.kr

Dulwich College Seoul offers an exemplary British-style international education (including IGCSE and IBDP) for over 600 expatriate students aged 2 to 18 from over 40 different countries.

6 Sinbanpo-ro 15-gil, Seocho-gu, Seoul, Korea. www.dulwich-seoul.kr admissions@dulwich-seoul.kr 02-3015-8500

EMERGENCY MEDICAL CENTERS Jeju Air 1599-1500

French Embassy (02) 3149-4300 • 30 Hap-dong, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul

Gangnam St-Mary’s Hospital 1588-1511 • 222 Banpo-daero, Seocho-gu, Seoul

T’way Air 1688-8686

Yonsei Severance Hospital (Sinchon) (02) 2227-7777 • 50 Yonsei-ro, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul

British Airways (02) 774-5511

Seoul National University Hospital 1339 • 28-2 Yeongeon-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul

Delta Airlines (02) 754-1921

Banyan Tree Club & Spa Seoul (02) 2250-8080 • San 5-5, Jangchung-dong 2-ga Jung-gu, Seoul

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS

Lufthansa (02) 2019-0180

Spanish Embassy (02) 794-3581 • 726-52 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

HOTELS & RESORTS

FAMILY & KIDS

Jin Air 1600-6200

Cathay Pacific Airways (02) 311-2700

Emirates Airlines (02) 2022-8400

D ETUR

PO NS MU

NDO

Eton House Prep (02) 749-8011 • 68-3 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul A unique British-style Prep School for children of all nationalities from 2-13 years of age.

A broad, challenging and innovative curriculum preparing pupils for senior school and life beyond. / www.etonhouseprep.com AMUSEMENT PARKS Everland Resort (031) 320-5000 • 310 Jeondae-ri, Pogok-eup, Cheoin-gu, Yongin-si, Gyeonggi-do Lotte World (02) 411-2000 0 • 240 Olympic-ro, Songpa-gu, Seoul Pororo Park (D-Cube city) 1661-6340 • 360-51 Sindorim-dong, Guro-gu, Seoul Children’s Grand Park (zoo) (02) 450-9311 • 216 Neungdong-ro, Gwangjin-gu, Seoul Seoul Zoo (02) 500-7338 • 159-1 Makgye-dong, Gwacheon-si, Gyeonggi-do BOOKSTORES What the Book?

(02) 797-2342 • 176-2, Itaewon 1-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul • whatthebook.com Located in Itaewon, this English bookstore has new books, used books and children’s books.

Kim & Johnson 1566-0549 • B2 fl-1317-20 Seocho-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul

HEALTH ORIENTAL MEDICINE Lee Moon Won Korean Medicine Clinic (02) 511-1079 • 3rd fl., Lee&You bldg. 69-5 Chungdam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Specializes in hair loss and scalp problems and offers comprehensive treatments and services including aesthetic and hair care products.

Soseng Clinic (02) 2253-8051 • 368-90 Sindang 3-dong, Jung-gu, Seoul Yaksan Obesity Clinic (02) 582-4246 • 1364-7, Seocho 2-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul • www.dryaksan.com FITNESS Exxl Fitness Gangnam Finance Center, 737 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul • www.exxl.co.kr Daily Morning Ashtanga Yoga Mysore Classes (English) Jivamukti, Forrest, Universal Yoga (Korean) Apgujeong Rodeo Stn, Exit 4 (02) 515-6011• www.taoyoga.kr

UROLOGY & OB Tower Urology (02) 2277-6699 • 5th fl. 119 Jongno 3-ga, Jongno-gu, Seoul

Animal hospitals Chunghwa Animal Hospital / Korea Animal Transport (02) 792-7602 • 21-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul / www.cwhospital.com

Hair & Joy Served as Art Director at London’s Renowned RUSH SALON and nominated by the Guardian for “Best Hairdresser”

Woori Pet Hospital (02) 393-6675 • 299-1 Youngcheon-dong, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul

MUSEUM & GALLERIES National Museum of Korea (02) 2077-9000 • 168-6 Yongsandong 6-ga, Yongsan-gu, Seoul The NMK offers educational programs on Korean history and culture in English and Korean.

National Palace Museum of Korea (02) 3701-7500 • 12 Hyoja-ro, Jongno-gu, Seoul This museum has a program called Experiencing Royal Culture designed for English teachers to help learn about Joseon royal culture.

Seodaemun Museum of Natural History (02) 330-8899 • 141-52 Yeonhui-dong, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul Don’t know where to take your kids on weekends? This museum exhibits a snapshot of the world and animals.

National Museum of Contemporary Art, Korea (02) 2188-6000 • 313 Gwangmyeong-ro, Gwacheon-si, Gyeonggi-do Leeum Samsung Museum of Art (02) 2014-6901• 747-18 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul 10:30 a.m.-6 p.m. Closed on Mondays, New Year’s Day, Lunar New Year and Chuseok holidays.

Kumho Museum (02) 720-5114 • 78 Sagan-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul 10 a.m.-6 p.m. Closed on Mondays.

Gallery Hyundai (02) 734-6111~3 • 22 Sagan-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul The first specialized art gallery in Korea and accommodates contemporary art.

10 a.m.-6 p.m. Closed on Mondays, New Year’s Day, Lunar New Year and Chuseok holidays.

Plateau (02) 1577-7595 • 50 Taepyung-ro 2-ga, Jung-gu, Seoul 10 a.m.-6 p. m. Closed on Mondays.

National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art, Seoul (MMCA SEOUL) (02) 3701-9500 • 30 Samcheong-ro, Sogyeok-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul

Trained at Toni & Guy and Vidal Sassoon Academy in UK Color, Perm, Magic Straight, Treatment and more English Spoken For more info, call Johnny Phone 02.363.4253 Mobile 010.5586.0243

Hair&Joy

Mapo-gu Dong gyo-dong 168-3_ 3F Seven Uniqlo Springs

HonhIk Univ. Stn. Line2 Exit8

www.hairandjoy.com Gangnam Apgujeong Branch

Qunohair

Phone 02.549.0335 www.qunohair.com 10-6, Dosan-daero 45-gil, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

range Cab

Travel In Comfort!

Best taxi service to Incheon and Gimpo airports We charge by meter (toll fees subject to surcharge)

TAXI orangecabwork@gmail.com

Daegu Art Museum (053) 790-3000 • 374 Samdeok-dong, Suseong-gu, Daegu Art space for local culture presenting Daegu’s contemporary fine arts and internationally renowned artists.

010-5960-0679

Maps JULY 2015

Itaewon (including Haebangchon and Gyeongnidan) Garosugil l Gangnam Station l Samcheong-dong Seochon l Hongdae l Myeong-dong l Yeonnam-dong

The establishments on our maps are carefully selected and based solely on recommendations from our editors, foodies and readers. Groove strictly separates these pages from commercial advertisements. These maps are only intended to serve the interests and cravings of our readers

Pick up GROOVE at your local

Lee Moon Won Korean Medicine Clinic 3rd Fl., Lee & You Bldg., 69-5 Cheongdam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul / (02) 511-1079 Treatment for hair loss and scalp problems. One-stop services including aesthetic and hair care products.

Starbucks

Over 570 locations throughout Korea

National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art, Grand Hilton Seoul Seoul branch H Samcheongdong / Gyeongbokgung Bukchon Gwanghwamun (Palace) Square Daehakro (Hyehwa-dong) Somerset Palace Seoul Insadong Sinchon (Yonsei Univ. & H Myeong Ewha Womans Univ.)

H dong Dongdaemun Deoksugung Lotte Hotel Seoul Market Dr.Kim’s Skin Laser Sheraton Grande Hongdae (Hongik Univ.)

(Palace) & Esthetic Clinic H Walkerhill H Banyan Tree Seoul (은피부과) Esarang N Seoul Tower H Grand Hyatt Seoul Today Dental Clinic Itaewon Dental Lee Moon Won Korean Medicine Conrad Seoul H Olympic Park Oracle Clinic Clinic 63 City Building Garosugil National Museum H Lotte World COEX H H of Korea Sheraton Seoul D Cube Park Hyatt Seoul Novotel Ambassador H City Hotel JW Marriott Seoul Gangnam Gangnam Seoul Bright Eye Clinic Gangnam Station Seoul Arts Center

Gyeongbokgung (Palace) Gyeongbokgung was the first royal palace built by the Joseon Dynasty in 1395, three years after the dynasty was founded. Gyeongbokgung served as the main palace of the Joseon Dynasty and represented its sovereignty. It is the largest of the Five Grand Palaces, the others being Gyeonghuigung, Deoksugung, Changgyeonggung and Changdeokgung.

Deoksugung (Palace) The changing of the Royal Guard and the patrol ritual take place here. The palace is unique for its modern seal engraving and a Western-style garden and fountain.

N Seoul Tower Formerly known as Namsan Tower. Its main attractions include multicolored digital art projected onto the tower at night, a digital observatory and a roof terrace.

Cheonggyecheon (stream) An 11-kilometer-long modern stream that runs through downtown Seoul, created as part of an urban renewal project. Cheonggyecheon is a restoration of the stream that existed during the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910).

Myeongdong Cathedral Myeongdong Cathedral is the very first Roman Catholic parish church in Korea. It is also the first Gothic building ever built in Korea and was designated as Historic site No. 285 in Korea.

지도상의 업장들은 Groove Korea의 기자, 음식 전문가, 독자들의 객관적인 의견을 반영하여 세심하게 선별된 곳들입니다. 대부분의 업장들은 Groove Korea가 직접 방문한 후 꼼꼼한 평가를 통해 독자들에게 자신있게 추천하는 소위 ‘HOT’ 한 곳들이며, 해당 지역을 연인, 가족 혹은 친구들과 방문할 때 기분좋은 경험을 하실 수 있도록 제작되었습니다. 지도상의 업장들은 매달 업데이트가 되며, 광고와는 무관합니다.

National Museum of Korea The six-story building of the National Museum of Korea is ranked as the sixth-largest museum in the world.

63 City Building The 63 City skyscraper is a Yeouido landmark commanding spectacular views of the city. Standing 249 meters high and comprising 60 floors and three basement levels, 63 City is one of Korea’s tallest and most recognized buildings.

Dongdaemun Market It is Korea’s largest wholesale and retail shopping district featuring 26 shopping malls, 30,000 speciality shops and 50,000 manufacturers. All kinds of goods can be found here including silk and fabric, clothes, shoes and accessories, electronics, leather goods, sporting goods, office supplies, pet products and toys.

Gwanghwamun Square Gwanghwamun Square is divided into six sections.

At its center stands a statue of King Sejong the Great, the fourth and most respected king of the Joseon Dynasty and creator of Hangeul, the Korean alphabet; and a statue of Admiral Yi Sunshin, a naval commander noted for his victories against the Japanese navy during the Japanese invasions of Korea (1592-1598) and a national hero.

Lotte World Opened in 1989, Lotte World is a major recreation National Museum of Modern and complex in downtown Seoul. It consists of Indoor Contemporary Art, Seoul branch Adventure (the world’s largest indoor theme park), Opened in 2013, the MMCA consists of a small number an outdoor theme park called Magic Island, a luxury of separate national art museums focusing on different hotel, the Korean Folk Museum, shopping malls, aspects of post-19th-century art. The Seoul museum department stores, sports facilities and a movie spotlights “cutting-edge and international art.” theater, all in one place.

Today Dental 3 Fl., 630-19 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul 1899-2854 Dental clinic specialized in cosmetic and general dentistry including dental implant and laminate.

Oracle Clinic (Chungdam branch) 333 Bongeunsa-ro, Gangnam-gu, Seoul 1800-7588 Dermatologic and plastic surgery clinic with the largest number of branches in Korea 70+ overseas and domestic.

Esarang Dental Clinic 26-16 Singongdeok-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul (02) 701-2199 Its internationally trained staff welcomes patients with heartfelt smiles.

Dr.Kim’s Skin Laser & Esthetic Clinic (은피부과) 3 Fl., 85-2 Cheongdam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul (02) 546-3322 Offering a comprehensive dermatological services for all ages and skins Gangnam Seoul Bright Eye Clinic 18 & 19 Fl., Mijin Plaza, 390 Gangnam-daero, Gangnam-gu, Seoul / 1588-3882 Experienced staffs with 10.000+ operations of LASIK & LASEK.

Grand Hyatt Seoul 322 Sowol-ro, Yongsan-gu, Seoul / (02) 797-1234 Grand Hilton Seoul 353 Yeonhee-ro, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul (02) 3216-5656 Conrad Seoul 23-1 Yeouido-dong, Youngdeungpo-gu, Seoul (02) 6137-7000 Park Hyatt Seoul 606 Teheran-ro, Gangnam-gu, Seoul (02) 2016-1234 Sheraton Grande Walkerhill 177 Walkerhill-ro, Gwangjin-gu, Seoul (02) 2022-0000 JW Marriott Seoul 176 Shinbanpo-ro, Seocho-gu, Seoul (02) 6282-6262 Lotte Hotel Seoul 30 Eulji-ro, Jung-gu, Seoul / (02) 771-1000 Somerset Palace Seoul 7 Yulgokro 2-gil, Jongro-gu, Seoul (02) 6730-8888 Novotel Ambassador Gangnam 130 Bongeunsa-ro, Gangnam-gu, Seoul (02) 567-1101 Banyan Tree Club & Spa Seoul San 5-5, Jangchung-dong 2-ga Jung-gu, Seoul (02) 2250-8080

The establishments on our maps are carefully selected and based solely on recommendations from our editors, foodies and readers.

Groove strictly separates these pages from commercial advertisements. These maps are only intended to serve the interests and cravings of our readers

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L1 Magpie Brewing Microbrewery A3 (02) 742-2849 • 691 Itaewon 2-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

Cafe / Bakery / DESSERT Hair salon / spa

R10

Hanjin Villa

RESTAURANT

R3 Buddha’s Belly Thai A4 (02) 793-2173 • 673 Itaewon 2-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

PUB / LOUNGE Shopping

R17 R5

We carry Platinum craft Beer

R4

L6

C2 The Baker’s Table Bakery Cafe A3 070-7717-3501 • 691 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul R4 Burger Mine Burgers A2 070-8263-2034 • 45-9 Yongsan-dong 2-ga, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

Namsan Daerim Apts.

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L2 Noxa Lounge LOUNGE A4 (02) 790-0776 • 671 Itaewon 2-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul This cozy neighborhood hangout in Itaewon specializes in cocktails and tapas. Check out DOJO, a downstairs bar with huge variety of alcohol on offer.

R5 Casablanca Moroccan A2 (02) 797-8367 • 44-8 Yongsan-dong 2-ga, Yongsan-gu, Seoul R8

R6 Pizzarium Pizza A5 (02) 312-7580 • 529 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

R18

Hanjin Villa

Hansin Apts.

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C2 L1 R9

R19

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Buy the Way cvs

MG Community Credit Cooperatives

Wellbeing Mart Seoul Digitech High School

IBK R22 L9 L11 L10 L2 R1

R8 HBC Gogitjib Korean bbq A2 (02) 796-5528 • 46-5 Yongsandong 2-ga, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

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L6 Bonny’s Pizza & Pub Pub A2 (02) 792 0303 • 44-17 Yongsan-dong 2-ga, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

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L7 Maloney’s Pub & Grill Pub b3 (02) 3785-1675 • 225-67 Itaewon 2-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

R13 R12 R6

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Itaewon Post Office

Pacific Mansion Gold

R9 The Booth Pizza b3 (02) 1544-4723 • 705 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

CU cvs Rose Hill Villa

Itaewon Cheil Church

Itaewon Elementary School

Hyundai Villa

2 Itaewon Villa

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Green Mart

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R19 Kkaolli pochana Thai B3 (070) 8872-1995 • 706 Itaewon 2-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul A hole-in-the-wall Thai restaurant serving real Thai with generous portions at cheap price.

R10 Jacoby’s Burgers Burgers A1 (02) 3785-0433 • 45-6 Yongsan-dong 2-ga, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

R12 Taco Chili Chili Mexican A5 (02) 797-7219 • 527 Itaewon 2-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

R13 Trevia Italian A4 (02) 794-6003• 557 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Their pizzas are Roman-style; the thin, crispy dough comes out of the oven literally smoking hot.

R15 Mi Madre Spanish A4 (02) 790-7875 • 568 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

Stn

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L9 Craftworks Taphouse Microbrewery A3 (02) 794-2537 • 238 Noksapyeong-daero, Yongsan-gu, Seoul The first expat-owned microbrewery in Korea still offers some of the best brews around. Try out their seasonal tastes in a warm and inviting ambience.

R17 Kusina Filipino A2 (02) 790-1826 • 44-7 Yongsan-dong 2-ga, Yongsan-gu, Seoul R18 Pizzaria Retro Italian B3 (02) 749-8947 • 712 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul L10 The Springs tap house craft beer A4 (02) 795-7732 • 238 Noksapyeong-daero, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

S1 The Nail Bar NAIL SHOP B4 (02) 794-8549 • Manicure, pedicure, tanning and waxing

L11 Pier 39 bar A4 (02) 749-0339 • 658 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

R23 MEATBALLISM Burger C3 (02) 792-5161 • 225-143 Itaewon 2-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

R22 Don Charly MEXICAN A4 (070) 8154-4475 • 250-12 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Authentic Mexican by Mexican chef

L13 UPPER DECK Sports bar B3 (02) 749-1223 • 305-5 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul. American sports bar & Grill

R24 ROBOT kimbap Kimbap A4 (02) 794-9595 • 563 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

C3 Street Churros Dessert Café A4 (02) 792-1489 • 557 Itaewon 2-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

C4 Once Upon A Milkshake Dessert Café A3 (070) 7435-3513 • 638 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

ITAEWON (GYEOngnidan & HAEbangchon)

R1 Bao Asian A4 (02) 797-4769 • 658 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

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D

E

Embassy of The Republic of the Philippines

2 1

3

Hangangjin Stn.

R1

1

C

ITAEWON (GYEOngnidan & HAEbangchon)

Itaewon (OVERVIEW)

The establishments on our maps are carefully selected and based solely on recommendations from our editors, foodies and readers.

Groove strictly separates these pages from commercial advertisements. These maps are only intended to serve the interests and cravings of our readers

H

Grand Hyatt Seoul Hotel

R14

Leeum Museum

C2

2

R15 F4

Itaewon Elementary School

2

L9

ITAEWON (main)

S2

H

1

4

3

No

R23

ksa

pye 3 ong S

R4

tn.

L4

R20

L12

L7

L10

R2 Linus BBQ SANDWICH B3 (02) 790-2920 • 56-20 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Pulled pork sandwich, Brisket sandwich, coleslaw, mac and cheese

R11 On The Border Mexican D3 (02) 792-0682 www.ontheborder.co.kr Authentic Mexican restaurant with homemade dishes and freshest ingredients with 25 margaritas to choose from.

L3 Reilly’s Taphouse bar C3 (02) 792-6590 • 3F. 123-32 Itaewon 1-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Reilly’s Taphouse boasts some 20 draft beers and is committed to carrying the best craft brews from Korea and around the world.

R7 Joongsim Korean B3 (02) 2235-0707 • 34-39 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

RESTAURANT

We carry Platinum craft Beer

R19

R9 Le Saigon Vietnamese B3 (02) 792-0336 • 74-33 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

F1 What The Book English bookstore B3 (02) 797-4342 • 2F. 176-2 Itaewon 1-dong, Yongsan-gu,Seoul Located in Itaewon, this English bookstore has new books, used books and childrens’ books. www.whatthebook.com

Hair salon / spa

Shopping

L1 Craftworks Taphouse Microbrewery A1 (02) 794-2537 • 238 Noksapyeong-daero, Yongsan-gu, Seoul The first expat-owned microbrewery in Korea still offers some of the best brews around. Try out their seasonal tastes in a warm and inviting ambience.

R1 HBC Gogitjib (Haebangchon branch) A1 Korean bbq (02) 796-5528 • 46-5 Yongsandong 2-ga, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

R4 Vatos Urban Tacos Mexican B3 (02) 797-8226 • 181-8 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul A unique ambience makes this upscale restaurant an ideal place to fill your stomach with authentic favorites.

R16

PUB / LOUNGE

L5

R9

R2 R7

Cheil

L3 Hamilton Hotel 2 1 Itaewon Stn. 3 4

F1

L8

Cafe / Bakery / DESSERT

IP Boutique Hotel

R11

H

F3

Hannam Foreigner’s Apts.

Bokwang Elementary School

L5 Wolfhound Irish pub C3 (02) 749-7971 • 128-6 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul L7 Rocky Mountain Tavern bar D3 010-6654-7202 • 736-12 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

F3 High Street Market Grocery shop for imported items D3 (02) 2201-0652 • 727-24 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul One-stop shop for imported groceries and coveted deli products.

F4 Beaker Shopping D2 (070) 4118-5216 • 738-36 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Discover a wide array of fashion items by the best international designers including James Perse, Aspesi, Rag&Bone, Vince, Jack Spade and more.

R20 Sushi Way SUSHI RESTAURANT B3 (02) 794-3774 • 6 fl., 64-15 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Authentic Japanese Sushi restaurant with Fresh ingredients & Best price R14 Pizzeria D’Buzza Italian E1 (02) 794-9474 • 743-33 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul This trendy joint has a full range of Italian fare. Make sure to make a reservation.

Place to relax and unwind Oriental massage and Spa packages for couples available

R15 Nari Jib Korean bbq D2 (02) 793-4860 • 738-24 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Samgyupsal and Cheonggukjang (pork BBQ and soybean paste pot stew) C2 Richesse Velours Cafe D2 (02) 797-8878 • 741-17 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Try its signature dessert menu item, bottled cupcakes.

S2 One Spa Therapy SPA & massage D2 (02) 749-0409 • 3rd fl., 124-7 Itaewon 1-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul, Spa and massage packages starts at 20,000w.

R16 Gida Sushi Japanese D2 (02) 749-3558 • 683-125 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Sushi bar with reasonable prices.

L8 Yuda Japanese bar D2 (02) 388-5081 • 683-126 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul L9 Muntaro Japanese bar D2 (02) 796-7232 • 683-124 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul L10 Bull & Barrel Sports bar B3 (010) 9982-2423 • 44-82, Itaewon 1-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul A new hybrid bar and restaurant with a huge terrace and roof top and a state-of-the-art Dart Bar to throw at.

R19 Left Coast Artisan burgers BURGER C3 (02) 6248-2998 • 131-20 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu. Seoul L12 Craftworks Taphouse Microbrewery D3 070-4131-5002• 736-9 Hannam-dong 2nd floor, Yongsan-gu R23 Miya Got The Balls Italian A3 (070) 4231-4346 • 549, Itaewon 2-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Korean-American chef from Master Chef Korea serving homemade meatballs, pasta and porchetta.

ONE SPA THERAPY

Foot massage 20,000w Full body massage starts at 30,000w

02-749-0409 (02) 793-2344

This tropical resort-themed lounge is a getaway from bustling city.

Seoul, Yongsan-gu, Itaewon-dong 112-3 Sun-Thu: 4:30 pm – 3 am Fri-Sat: 4:30 pm – 5 am

3rd fl. 124-7 Itaewon 1-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

(3 mins from Itaewon subway stn.)

10am – 5am

ITAEWON (MAIN)

The establishments on our maps are carefully selected and based solely on recommendations from our editors, foodies and readers.

Groove strictly separates these pages from commercial advertisements. These maps are only intended to serve the interests and cravings of our readers

A

B

C

D

E

Cafe / Bakery / DESSERT Hair salon / spa

1

RESTAURANT PUB / LOUNGE Shopping We carry Platinum craft Beer R10 L9 L8

R5

R22 R2

L6

R9

R7

2

L10 L19

H

L1 L16

Shinhan Bank ABC Mart

H

R16

D’oro Hotel

R13

Hamilton Hotel

L17

L11

R14

R11 L5

R6

2

1

Concierge

3

Itaewon Stn.

3

4

R20

Starbucks

GS gas station

Itaewon Fire Station

KB

R17

L13

L18 R21

7-Eleven cvs

IBK

H

ITW Hotel

CU cvs CU cvs

R19

4

R1

R1 Bulldogs HOTDOG D4 (02) 6248-2998 • 131-20 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu. Seoul

R2 HBC Gogitjib (Itaewonbranch) Korean bbq A2 (02) 796-5528 • 118-9 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

L13 Dillinger’s pub B3 (02) 793-7232 • 72-32 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

R19 Marrakech Night Moroccan D4 (02) 795-9441 • 131-3 Itaewon-dong

R10 Maple Tree House Korean bbq C2 (02) 790-7977 • 116-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

L16 Reilly’s Taphouse bar D2 (02) 792-6590 • 3F. 123-32 Itaewon 1-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

R11 Ho Lee Chow Chinese C2 (02) 793-0802 • 119-25 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul L1

L10 All that Jazz Jazz club D2 (02) 795-5701 • 112-4 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

R21 Un Deux Trois French D2 (02) 796-1244 • 123-33 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul An authentic French brasserie where traditions and trends mix, symbolizing a Parisian way of life

R13 My Thai Asian D2 (02) 794-8090 • 123-20 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

L17

R14

L1 Rose & Crown pub A2 (02) 794-2555 • 118-23 Itaewon 1-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Classic British pub specializes in ales and carries 40+ draft and bottled beers R5 Zelen Bulgarian B2 (02) 749-0600 • 116-14 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul R6 Le saint EX French B2 (02) 795-2465 • 119-28 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul L5 Baby Guinness pub B2 (02) 792-2777 • 119-17 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul R7 Pattaya Thai B2 (02) 793-4888 • 116-14 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul L6 Gecko’s Avenue Lounge C2 (02) 790-0540 • 116-6 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

R14 Jonny Dumpling 2 Chinese D2 (02) 790-8839 • 123-5 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

L17 The Glamping Bar&Grill A2 (02) 792-3189 • 171-23 Itaewon-dong L11 Jeon Mandang Korean bar D2 Recreate the feel of outdoor camping (070) 8749-5004 • 118-18 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul and BBQ cuisine in the warm indoors.

L9 Prost pub C2 (02) 796-6854 • 116-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

R18 Don Valley Korean bbq C3 (02) 796-2384 • 127-12 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul R22 Battered Sole Fish & Chips A2 (02) 749-6867• 2 fl., 118-9 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

L8 Glam Lounge C2 (010) 2657-6853 • 116-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul R17 Gecko’s Terrace American C3 (02) 749-9425128-5 • Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul L8

R17

L18 Hollywood Grill Bar&Grill D2 (02) 749-1659 • 123-33 Itaewon 1-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul One of Itaewon’s favorite expat haunts. A real sports bar famed for its burgers and its broad range of pub fare.

L19 The Bungalow Bar D2 (02) 793-2344 • 112-3 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul This tropical resort-themed lounge is a getaway from bustling city.

L19

GArosugil (sinsa-dong)

The establishments on our maps are carefully selected and based solely on recommendations from our editors, foodies and readers.

Groove strictly separates these pages from commercial advertisements. These maps are only intended to serve the interests and cravings of our readers B

A

C

Cafe / Bakery / DESSERT Hair salon / spa

R1 Elbon the table Italian A1 (02) 547-4100 • 530-5 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

L4

RESTAURANT PUB / LOUNGE 1

Shopping

R2 Vatos Urban Tacos Mexican A1 (02) 548-8226 • 532-11 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

CU cvs

We carry Platinum craft Beer R1

Shingu

cvs

C1 La Eskimo Bakery B2 (02) 512-9244 • 546-3 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

Elementary School

7-Eleven

R2

Starbucks

Imagestar

R4 Spain club Spanish A2 (02) 515-1118 • 524-30 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

C11

2

C12 C1

R6 The Original Pancake House Pancake A3 (02) 511-7481 • 523-20 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

C2 R6

C4

R19

Hindol Villa

R7

GS25 cvs

R10 R9 f3

C4 Godiva chocolate B3 (02) 517-3979 • 545-6 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

C8 C9

R11

R9 Sarubia Italian B4 (02) 540-7344 • 542-3 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

f2 f1

R10 Hansung Mungo B4

L5

CU cvs

Japanese Ramyeon (02) 543-7901 • 2F. 542-3 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

L2 7-Eleven cvs

C6

R11 Taco Chili Chili Mexican A4 (02) 545-1705 • 535-9 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

KB

Starbucks R12

5

C2 Ikovox coffee Cafe A3 (02) 545-2010 • 534-10 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul R7 buccella sandwich B3 (02) 517-7339 • 534-22 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

R14

4

C6 Coffee Smith Cafe B5 (02) 3445-3372 • 536-12 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul L2 Wanso Izakaya C4 (02) 3444-2021 • 539-4 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

R4

3

R12 Bibigo Korean B5 (02) 544-7423 • 2F. 537-5 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

IBK

GS25 cvs

R16

sa

Sin

.

Stn

H

R15

S-oil gas Station

Youngdong Hotel

R19 Ozit Gastro pub B3 • 544-5 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul New addition to Garosugil serving sandwich, burgers and salads with the finest craft beer.

f1 Massimo Dutti Shopping B4 (02) 545-6172 • 541-7 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul f2 8 seconds Shopping B4 (070) 7090-1144 • 535-12 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul C9 Ben’s Cookies Cookies A4 (02) 514-0051 • 518-10 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul f3 Ralph Lauren POLO Shopping B4 • 535-18 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul R14 March Rabbit Veggie C3 (02) 3444-4514 • 560 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul R15 Yum Thai Thai C5 (02) 594-7988 •5-4 Nonhyun-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul R16 Songok Korean b5 (02) 545-3297 • 2 fl.537-7 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Since 1961, it’s been serving one of Korea’s best UDON, SOBA and DONKATSU. Strongly recommended for casual dining.

C12 Mercy Juice JUICE B2 (02) 547-3595 • 551-11 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Cleanses using 100% supernatural cold-pressed juice

C11 Remicone ICECREAM B2 (02) 6207-1029 • 547-12 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Ice cream haven.

L4 Hanchu PUB B1 (02) 541-0969 • 549-9 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Awarded ‘The best crispy fried chicken in Seoul’ by Chowzter. Get a side of pork stuffed and fried chili peppers.

C8 Tokyo Panya Bakery C4 (02) 547-7790 • 543-8 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

L5 De Chou Lounge C4 (02) 514-2014 • B1 fl. 540-19 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Carries unique Korean traditional soju not found in anywhere else.

Pricey but absolutely worth exploring masterpieces by local brewers.

R1 Dos Tacos Mexican B2

R2 Mano di Chef Italian C2

(02) 561-7111 • B1 825-18 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

R3 O’yull Healthy Fusion B3

(02) 554-0511 • 820-9 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

R4 Seoga & Cook Italian C2

(02) 558-5263 • 618-18 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul All menu items are priced at 18,000won

R5 BOBIRED Korean Fusion C2

(02) 3452-1515 • 618-18 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

R6 Norita Garden Italian B3

(02) 596-5258 • 7F 1317-13 Seocho-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul Cream pasta is recommended.

R7 Steakholic Steakhouse C3

(02) 568-8768 • 817-8 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul All-you-can-eat steak for 28,000won

R8 Doni Burger Burger B3

(02) 534-6282 • 1317-31 Seocho-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul Operated by famous comedian Chung Hyung-don

R9 Primo BacioBaci Italian B3

(02) 501-0885 • 816-3 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul (02) 3453-7697 • B3. 821 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Italian restaurant with a stage for live music and private parties

R11 Bonguhwaro Korean BBQ C2

(02) 558-8452 • 619-14 Yeoksam 1-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

R12 Gatten Sushi sushi C3

(02) 2051-1477 • 822-4 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul A Japanese sushi franchise

R13 Dochi Pizzeria Pizza C2

(02) 556-8001 • 620-17 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Neapolitan pizza made in a forno oven

R14 General Banjum Chinese C2

(02) 553-1920 • 619-5 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Try various kinds of dimsum

(02) 539-6650 • 818-8 Yeoksam 1-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Serving 9 different kinds of Big Rock premium beers from Alberta, Canada

R17 Lawry’s The Prime Rib Steak A4

(02) 590-2800 • 3F. 1317-23 Seocho-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul

B

C Hair salon / spa

L2

Kyobo Tower

R19

1

Hollys

R1

R18 Sushino Baek Chef Sushi C2

(02) 565-0802 • 619-5 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

RESTAURANT PUB / LOUNGE

R20

R19 Genroku Udon

Japanese noodles A1 (02) 3481-8555 • 1302-50 Seocho-dong,Seocho-gu, Seoul All-you-can-eat Japanese noodles

Yeoksam Post Office

R26

CGV

R4

R15

R16

R18

R5

R14 R11

2

R20 Elkin the Black Italian B2

(02) 568-6987 • 813 Yeoksam 1-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Try the lunch special of cream sauce with Boston steak pasta at 25,300won, served for two people.

R27 R13

Giordano R24

Lotte Cinema

R21 Rabat Moroccan B3

(02) 561-3665 • B2. 821-1 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Beef tajine with couscous at 26,500won

R25

3

L3

R8 R3

(02) 599-1140 • 1317-14 Seocho-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul Popular Japanese burger franchise comes to Korea

R22 MegaBox R17

R10 R21

Starbucks

9

(02) 563-7977 • 822-1 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

R24 Chez Jin Italian C2

(02) 566-9079 • 817-35 Yeoksam 1-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Enjoy Italian cuisine with club music

L3 SOS Seafood Pub C3

(02) 508-0458 • 818-11 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Cajun seafood at its finest

R25 Johnny Rockets Burger B3

(02) 2051-1226 • 816-4 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

S1

R12

12 Gangnam Stn.

1

8

4

7

R23

Samsung Digital

6

L2 Kodachaya Bar B2

(02) 3453-6666 • 808-5 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul 7 different tent bars with a unique concept for each. Its motto is ‘be crazy enough to win and too tired to lose’

11

10

S1 Nova Skin Clinic Skin clinic C3

(02) 2055-3610 • B1. 1320-10 Seocho-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul

L1

R6

R22 Mos Burger Burger B3

R23 Ganga Indian A4

R7

R9

Gangnam Stn.

R10 I Have a Dream Italian B3

A

L1 Big Rock Brewery Pub C3

hyeon Stn. Line9. Sinnon

(02) 593-5904 • 1303-35 Seocho-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul Two thumbs up. Fresh ingredients and a reasonable price.

2

3

R15 Big Plato Italian C2

(02) 557-3442 • 619-2 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul A vintage interior and decent prices.

R16 Mies Container Italian C2

(02) 536-5786 • 1316-29 Seocho-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul Salad spaghetti and bulgogi cream cheese pasta are recommended.

R26 Julio Mexican C2

(02) 568-5324 • 619-1 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

R27 Uncle 29 Mexican A2

•1308-16 Seocho-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul

(02) 590-2800

j

3rd floor, GT Tower, 1317-23, Seocho-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul www.lawrys.kr lunch 11:30am-2:30pm Dinner 5:30 pm-9:30pm

GANGNAM STATION

The establishments on our maps are carefully selected and based solely on recommendations from our editors, foodies and readers.

Groove strictly separates these pages from commercial advertisements. These maps are only intended to serve the interests and cravings of our readers

HongDae (HongIK Univ.)

The establishments on our maps are carefully selected and based solely on recommendations from our editors, foodies and readers.

Groove strictly separates these pages from commercial advertisements. These maps are only intended to serve the interests and cravings of our readers

A

B

C

5 Ho ng

4

Cafe / Bakery / DESSERT

ik

Hair salon / spa .

2

Stn

.

Lotte Cinema S1

n St ik ng 8

RESTAURANT

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Ho

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Ho

PUB / LOUNGE

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3

ik

Stn

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1

DANCE CLUB

9

We carry Platinum craft Beer

KFC

Coffee Bean R4 R1

Seokyo Elementary School

L2

V-HALL

R17

Seokyo Prugio Apts.

C1

2

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Bobo Hotel

Smoothie King

VELOSO D7

Halla Mansion

D12

R16

Lotte Cinema

9 8

n.

St

3

KT&G SangsangMadang

D9 L1

4

R11 R8

7-Eleven cvs

C2 C3

5 Ha

pj

3

p

Ha

10

ng

o je

R12

D2

R13

D5

2 1

Wau Park

D6

PRISM HALL

D11

Hongik University

D3

CLUB GOGOS CLUB TA 打 D10 CLUB EVANS CLUB FF R2

Jungang heights Apts.

D1

eo

ng

St 6 n.

7

Freebird2 EVANS LOUNGE

R3

R5

C4

Wau Park

R10 R18 C5

1 Sangsu Stn. 4

2 3

C1 Paul & Paulina Bakery C2 (02) 333-0185 • 344-6 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

C3 Museum café aA Cafe b3 (02) 3143-7312 • 408-11 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

R1 Primo Baciobaci Italian C1 (02) 323-0098 • 346-47 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

C4 Okrumong Cafe b3 (02) 325-4040 • 402-18 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

D1 Club Freebird 2 (Big Bird) Club b3 (02) 335-4576 408-17 Seogyo-dong, mapo-gu, Seoul Club playing live music by local artists and bands facebook.com/clubfreebird2

C2 Peony Cafe b3 (02) 333-5325 • 403-15 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

R10 Pakumori Curry Japanese curry b3 (02) 322-5001 • 411-15 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

D2 Club NB Club / hip-hop C2 • 362-4 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoull

R2 Yoonsi Milbang Korean C3 (02) 3143-4116 • 411-6 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

C5 Kyo bakery Bakery b3 (02) 794-5090 • 317-7 Sangsoo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

D5 Club M2 Club / electronic b2 • 367-11 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

R3 Sunny the Grill Italian b3 (02) 337-8951 • 401-19 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

R11 Hongdae Jopok Dukpoki Korean b3 (02) 337-9933 • 407-21 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

D6 Club Mansion Club / electronic b2 • 368-22 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

R4 La Paella Spanish C1 (02) 322-8870 • 2F. 345-3 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

R12 Aloha Table Hawaiian b2 (02) 324-7718 • 364-14 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

D7 Club Freebird Club / live music b2 • 364-22 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

R5 Hakadabunko Japanese RAMEN c3 (02) 338-5536 • 93-28 Sangsoo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

R13 Agio Italian C2 (02) 322-8133 • 364-6 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

D9 Club DGBD Club / live music b3 • 395-17 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

S1 Hair & Joy Hair Salon C1 (02) 363-4253 • 3F. 168-3 Donggyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

R16 Yeonga Korean BBQ b2 (02) 336-9992 • 366-13 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

D10 Club Gogos Club / rock c3 • 407-8 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

L1 Castle Praha Pub b3 (02) 337-6644 • 395-19 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

R17 Gusto Taco Mexican C2 (02) 3142-8226 • 342-16 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul Mexican traditionalism done right: an efficient balance of flavor and texture.

D11 Club NB2 Club / hip-hop C2 • 361-10 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

R8 No Stress Kitchen Italian b3 (02) 6083-1252 • 404-8 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

L2 Platinum Beer Pub Pub with craft beer C1 (070) 4143-8081• 345-24 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

D12 Club Cocoon Club / hip-hop C2 • 364-26 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

#liveishere Every last Friday on the month!

Get your pass at 20,000 won, Access 10 hottest and funkiest clubs in Hongdae!

R1 Yeonnam Blues Restaurant/bar B4 (02) 325-1478 • 150-6 Donggyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul Wines, cocktails, beer or even soju well go with its menu items.

Groove recommends Halla tonic (Hallasan soju mixed with tonic) and spicy seafood stew.

A

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B

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R8 Soiyeonnam 소이연남 THAI C2 (02) 323-5130 • 229-67 Yeonnam-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

Yeonnam-dong Community Service Center

R9 Lie Lie Lie Vietnamese C3 (010) 2880-7973 • 227-5 Yeonnam-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul BANH MI (Vietnamese sandwich)

R8 L1

Green House

2

L2 R6

R3

홍어랑탁이랑 R4

L3 R5 C3 R7 R9 R2

po

Air roa

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C1 Nakrangparang Cafe C4 (02) 6204-7888 • 148-3 Donggyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul Named after the first café in Korea opened in 1931.

Rest your feet at this retrointerior café with a bowl of mango shaved ice.

12 pm – 10 pm.

Closed on Mondays

C2

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Demyung Vivaldi Park Apts.

Gyeongam little theater Sambuja Squid Bulgogi

Jin House

R1

Yeonnam Police Box

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C1 C4

C5

R10

R2 Tuk Tuk Noodle Thai Thai D3 070-4407-5130 • 227-37 Yeonnam-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul Thai chef and Thai beer served in Thai interiors and music.

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L1 Dan Dan Japanese bar C2 (02) 6092-2298 • 228-9 Yeonnam-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul Izakaya serving various menu items at reasonable price starting at 4,000won.

5pm – 3 am. Closed on Tuesdays L2 228-9 Café / bar C2 070-4244-2289 • 228-9 Yeonnam-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul A cozy place to enjoy cocktails and live music.

2pm – 2am R3 Casa di Noa Italian B3 (02) 3142-1108 • 257-8 Yeonnam-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul Homemade Italian cuisine served by an Italian chef owner.

R4 달빛부엌 Moonlight kitchen Asian cuisine C2 (02) 322-3559 • 227-13 Yeonnam-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul Thai, Chinese and Japanese dishes cooked with the freshest from market daily.

5:30 pm – 1:30 am. Closed on Sundays

C5 Travel Maker cafe B4 (02) 338-1545 • 152-7 Donggyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul American breakfast

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홍대최대포

R10 SOUPMAN Restaurant C4 Serving chicken, brocoll, pumpkin, potato, gorgonzola and cacao soups starting from 5,600 won.

R7 Assisi Italian D3 070-4114-0736 • 227-6 Yeonnam-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul Almost as if you’re dining at your friends’. This small but welcoming ambiance is recommended for dining with your friends. / 11:50 am – 11 pm.

Closed on Mondays.

C2 Viva Brasil Brazilian dessert cafe C2 070-8951-8282 • 255-25 Yeonnam-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul A dessert café serving Brazilian fruit bowl, smoothies and cheese breads.

C3 Isim Coffee shop D3 070-4238-5050 • 227-5 Yeonnam-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul Just when you think you know about coffee, the barista owner will extend your knowledge. Just ask. You won’t regret C4 Tomi’s bakery Bakery C4 (02) 333-0608 • 148-4 Donggyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul A local bakery opened by a Japanese patissier Tomigawa. Vietnamese coffee is recommended to go with its breads. / 10 am – 9 pm

Donggyo-dong Samgeori

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L3 Sisili Soju bar D2 (02) 334-8117 • 227-15 Yeonnam-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul Groove editors’ favorite spot.

Seafood grilled or raw, beef grilled or raw and Hallasan soju. Soju lovers’ haven for sleepless nights.

6 pm – 5 am R6 Taiwanese Night Market 대만야시장 Taiwanese restaurant C2 (02) 322-3058 • 227-20 Yeonnam-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul Various Taiwanese dumplings, Paux mama, fried chicken/prawn/port/squid starting at 5,000won. The best spot for late night snacks in the area.

9 am – 2 am R5 Himeji Japanese curry D3 010-4743-1055 • 227-15 Yeonnam-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul Homemade curry at less than 5,500won.

Its menu curry noodle is strongly recommended to first time visitors.

Yeonnam-dong

The establishments on our maps are carefully selected and based solely on recommendations from our editors, foodies and readers.

Groove strictly separates these pages from commercial advertisements. These maps are only intended to serve the interests and cravings of our readers

SAMCHEONG-DONG

The establishments on our maps are carefully selected and based solely on recommendations from our editors, foodies and readers.

Groove strictly separates these pages from commercial advertisements. These maps are only intended to serve the interests and cravings of our readers

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Silkroad Museum

R12 C1

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R3 R4

R1

Eros Museum LeeC Gallery

Bansuk Villa

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Café bene National Folklore Museum Samcheong Police Box Jinsun Book Café

R6

C2

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Jeongdok Public Library

CU cvs

R5

Bukchon Art&culture Museum

C4

Hakgojae Gallery

R11

KIEHL’S

C3

Seoul Education Museum

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R9

Art Sonjae Center R7

R10

National Museum of Contemporary Art, Seoul Branch

R8

Dam Gallery R13

R1

C1 Milk Bakery B1 (02) 735-7111 • 16-2 Palpan-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul

R7

R1 A table French B1 (02) 736-1048 • 104-8 Palpan-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul

R3

R3 Cheongsoojeong 청수정 Korean / Seafood C1 (02) 738-8288 • 88-23 Samcheong-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul R4 Chez simon French C1 (02) 730-1045 • 63-10 Samcheongdong, Jongro-gu, Seoul

C2 Café aA Cafe b3 (02) 722-1211 • 55 Sogyeok-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul

R12

R6 Agio Italian C3 (02) 720-1211 • 23-11 Hwa-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul

C3 Hit The Spot Cafe b3 (02) 739-5100 • 87 Sogyeok-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul

R8 Ramyeon Dangineunnal 라면땡기는날 Korean noodle C4 (02) 733-3330 • 138-21 Hwa-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul

R9 Dal Indian curry C4 (02) 736-4627 • 144-2 Sogyeok-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul R10 Satbyuldang Chicken C4 (070) 7773-4773 • 144-6 Sogyeok-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul Skewered chicken with soy sauce / spicy sauce at 2,000won. Just look for a long waiting line.

R5 The Restaurant French B3 (02) 735-8441 • 59-1 Sogyeok-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul C2

C4 Coffee Bangakgan 커피방앗간 Cafe b3 (02) 732-7656 • 102-1 Hwa-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul

R7 Cheonjin Poja 천진포자 Asian C4 (02) 739-6086 • 148-2 Sogyeok-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul

R5

R11 Samcheonghwa Korean C4 (02) 733-8273 • 112 Sogyeok-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul R12 Flora Pizza C1 (02) 732-7009 • 147-20 Samcheong-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul Forno-ovened pizza R13 Kongji Potji Italian D4 (02) 745-2203 • 34-1 Jae-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul

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7-eleven cvs

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Seochon (서촌), located west of the Gyeongbokgung Palace, literally “West village” / “Western village”, is one of the oldest neighborhoods of Seoul, traditionally associated with Joseon era and Korean literature.

Long neglected compared to the wealthier Bukchon (on the other side of the palace), Seochon has reclaimed part of its popularity, particularly following the protection of one of Seoul’s largest clusters of hanok (over 600), and the renovation of landmarks to host cultural venues.

Experience the warm memories of the hidden old alleys of Seochon

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L4

Seochon

The establishments on our maps are carefully selected and based solely on recommendations from our editors, foodies and readers.

Groove strictly separates these pages from commercial advertisements. These maps are only intended to serve the interests and cravings of our readers

Starbucks

L8 L7 Church

R1

R4 R3 Hyundai Motors

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L6

L9

Dunkin Donuts

Paris Baguette

L2

R2

L1

Geumcheongyo Market

Kia Motors

L5

2 CU cvs

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ung Stn. (Line3)

L2 Bob Dylan & The Band Pub C3 (02) 739-6565 • 90 Chebu-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul 8pm - 2am

R1 Chebudong Janchijib (체부동잔치집) Korean D3 (02) 730-5420 • 190 Chebu-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoula Perilla seed noodle, seafood and green onion jeon (pancake) and spicy noodle recommended.

9:30 am – 1 am L1 Seochon Kyedanjib (서촌계단집) Pub C3 (02) 737-8412 • 11-1 Naeja-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul Two thumbs up! The best seafood tent-bar in Seoul. Serves the freshest seafood of the season daily delivered directly from the local fishermen.

R4 JeoNDaegamdaek (전대감댁) Korean C3 (070) 4202-5170 • 184 Chebu-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul Serves unique and various kinds of Makeoli.

Its menu items are perfect for meals as well.

L3 Cheolpannam (철판남) Pub A2 (070) 8776-6001 • 155-2 Philun-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul Teppan Yaki bar with Wagyu (Kobe) beef steak Reasonable steak menu price starting at 15,000 won.

L4 Philun Sanghye (필운상회) Pub A2 Opened by the same owner of Cheolpannam (iron-pan man), serves anju to go with soju.

Customers can order from Cheolpannam menu as well.

L7 Hyoja Barbe (효자바베) Pub B2 (070) 8749-0019 • 210-3 Chebu-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul Pork bbq, chicken and grilled prawns starting at 25,000 won.

L5 Anju Maeul (안주마을)

R2 Tongyoung Sangsungui (통영생선구이) Korean C3 (02) 739-3322 • 20 Naeja-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul Grilled fish and seafood restaurant

R3 Simsanae (심산애) Korean B3 (02) 734-1112 • 205-1 Philun-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul Strongly recommended its Deodeok Makeoli made of mountain herb harvested be the owner a real ginseng digger.

Pub D3 (02) 723-3529 • 1-2 Naej a-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul Cooked octopus and boiled cockles

L6 Passion Potato (열정감자) Pub C3 (070) 7778-4676 • 24 Naeja-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul Fried potatoes with various seasonings and coffee draught beer and citrus draught beer.

L8 Seochon 181 (서촌181) JAPANESE PUB C2 (02) 733-0181 • 181 Chebu-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul Japanese casual pub with many sake menu.

L9 Killi BanBan (킬리뱅뱅) PUB C3 (010) 5737-0852 • 23 Naeja-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul Spanish Hipster pub carrying the finest Platinum beer.

Myeong-dong

The establishments on our maps are carefully selected and based solely on recommendations from our editors, foodies and readers.

Groove strictly separates these pages from commercial advertisements. These maps are only intended to serve the interests and cravings of our readers

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Euljiro 1(il)-ga Stn. 8 7 1 Lotte Hotel

7-Eleven cvs

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KEB

Seoul

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Mr. Pizza

Myeong-dong Tourist Information Center

Metro Hotel

Skypark Hotel [II]

7-Eleven cvs

Skypark Hotel [Central]

Lotte Duty Free

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Lotte Avenuel

Lotte Cinema

Seoul YMCA

ABC Mart

Ibis Ambassador Hotel

R4

Hadongkwan

Osulloc Tee house

Seoul Royal Hotel

Starbucks

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Myeong-dong Donkatsu

Olive young

Myeong-dong Shinhan Bank Burger King Theater

Lotte Young Plaza

Jhill Hotel

Police Stn.

Nanta Theater

R3

Andong Jjimdak Myeong-dong Catholic church

Olive young

Frisbee

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Hamheung Myeonok

R1

Chinese Embassy

Myeong-dong Kyoja Seoul lobal Cultural Center

Vips

Kyesung Girls’High School

CROCS

A-land

GS25 cvs

Savoy Hotel

Starbucks

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NineTree Hotel Shinhan Bank

Quicksilver & Roxi

CGV

The Grand Hotel

Skypark Hotel [III] TOUSlesJOURS

Migliore

R1 Myeongdong Kyoja Korean D3 With more than 40 years of history, Myeongdong Kyoja has been loved by the locals for many years. The restaurant is popular for its Kalguksu, a Korean noodle dish that serves handmade noodles and other ingredients in a bowl of thick chicken broth. The mini dumpling toppings add a zesty touch while the crazy chili kimchi gives you garlic breath that may be hellish for your companion, but well worth it. The pork dumplings are also highly recommended.

R2 Myeongdong Donkatsu Korean B2 Opened in 1983, this restaurant serves delicious donkatsu (Japanese pork cutlet).

The secret is in aging thick slices of seasoned pork fillet (150kg total) for three to four days making the meat tenderer.

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8 7 ng Stn. Myeong-do

R3 Andong Jjimdak Korean D2 Dak means chicken in Korean, and jjim means steamed, stewed or braised in a sauce. Andong Jjimdak, which originated from the city of Andong, is a spicy version that has become enormously popular since late 1990’s. Braised in a sweet and savory braising liquid, the dish gets its spiciness from dried whole red chili peppers and fresh fiery hot green peppers called Cheongyang gochu.

R4 Hadongkwan Korean D2 Opened in 1939, it is the most representative gomtang (traditional Korean soup boiled with beef bone) restaurant in Seoul.

With its long history, Hadongkwan provides an authentic taste of gomtang and it only opens its door until 4:30pm.

This is the place where you can experience Korean culture and get information about travelling in Seoul.

weekend DIY

K-FOOD COOKING

K-POP Dance Class

Haechi Hall event

HANBOK (Korean Traditional Costume)

Korean Painting class

Email seoulcenter3789@gmail.com

EXIT

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Euljiro 1-ga Station

Website www.seoulculturalcenter.com (English support) Facebook www.facebook.com/Seoulcenter3789

Myeong-dong Tourist Information Center

10 min. walk

Opening Hours 10:30am - 7:30pm open everyday except New Year’s Day & Chuseok

Myeong-dong Theater

Tel 02.3789.7961

EXIT

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5F

5 min. walk

5 min. walk

Address 5th FL, M-Plaza, 27 Myeong-dong 8-gil, Junggu, Seoul

EXIT

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Myeong-dong Station

Copyright (C) 2015 SEOULMETRO. All rights Reserved.

Subway map

A n s a n

Rocks A welcome return to a three-day circle of music festivities Story by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring / Photos courtesy of CJ E&M

A

On the stage this year are three renowned headlinnsan M Valley Rock Festival returns after a year’s ers certain to turn any heads. Noel Gallagher’s High hiatus for three days of Flying Birds return to Korea for the second time in music madness from July 2015 to bring their second album ‘Chasing Yesterday’ 24 to 26. Now with an add- live to the stage. Following a successful headlined ‘M’ in the title, organiz- er show at the Sheraton Walkerhill Theater in May, ers CJ E&M have empha- expect hits ‘Riverman’ and ‘Ballad of The Mighty I’ sized the music side of to kick off Friday’s festivities. Canadian Joel Thomthe event with even more as Zimmerman, better known as Deadmau5 (pronounced ‘Deadmouse’), brings his variety of house outdoor facilities and sassy sound systems to match.

The festival brings over 80 bands back to the Dae- and electronica to the stage beforehand. No strangbu Sea Breeze Theme Park; Ansan’s new home since er to the World Music and DJ awards, Deadmau5’s 2013. Since the move from the Jisan Valley Ski Resort, live performance is sure to get visitors into the party (which is now home to the Jisan World Rock Festival), mood. Back to rock and Benjamin Booker performs over 100,000 people have celebrated rock music at its his own style of guitar sounds in the early evening, best with a mixed events schedule combining music, with an influential blues and boogie sound from his home town of New Orleans. camping and a party spirit all in one.

The Ansan Rock Festival is here to put the into Music

Saturday’s main draw The Chemical Brothers celebrate over 25 years in the music business with ninth album ‘Born In The Echoes’. The ‘Brothers’, who originally met at the University of Manchester, head a dance-themed Saturday with their selection of Block Rocking Beats and rock/dance fusion.

The final day expects nothing less than a rock filled jaunt as Foo Fighters bring an impressive backlog spanning three decades to the Ansan stage. The rock gods, who released ‘Sonic Highways’ last year, close events on Sunday after a Rudimental live experience to round up a headliner list with many familiar outfits. The afternoon promises to be legendary with eternal rockers Motorhead leading the way for the kids, showing them how music should really be performed. The outfit, which started out in England back in 1975, have sold more than 15 million albums and are still rocking hard. Ranked number 26 of VH1’s all time top 100 Hard Rock bands, definitely a classic act not to be missed.

Ansan has also billed a selection of Korea rock outfits to celebrate some local talent alongside some of these western rock legends. Idiotape are no strangers to the stage, known around Seoul for their loud and live electronic sound which will be sure to take speakers to their limits. Quartet Gogostar, who have a distinct disco punk rock style, are also renowned for their unique mix of circus, carnival and goth image. Worth a look in for their performances alone, expect theatrical back flips and climbing on the stage by frontman Lee Tae Sun while a soundtrack of electronica beats pounds through the speakers. For some Korean fusion, Peppertones add a little electronica and house in the mix as duo Jae Pyung Shin (aka Sayo) and Jang Won Lee (aka Noshel) bring their five studio albums, including latest ‘High Five’ to the music celebrations.

Away from the stages, outdoor essentials are provided to ensure that the festival period is a comfortable one.

Numerous vendors will provide international fare to keep hunger at bay and energy levels rising high. A truly Korean festival, the food choices bring Asian and Western fusions together, in the same way it has its performers. The outdoor experience doesn’t stop there with stalls on offer for those wishing to take a break from the music as hairstylists and massage therapists wait on hand for a relaxing interlude.

Saturday’s main draw The Chemical Brothers celebrate over 25 years in the music business with ninth album ‘Born In The Echoes’.

Make a weekend out of Ansan and take advantage of the festival site’s camping facilities, available at a small pitching price for three-day ticket holders. The grounds will also have stalls renting tents and camping equipment for any last minute change of plans.

However, for those who prefer a bed, local pensions and hotels are available, although as with any festival, reservations should be made in advance to guarantee a room.

Ansan M Valley Rock Festival promises to bring an outdoor mix of indie, mainstream and classic artists together for the three-day hard rock festival. Although the word ‘rock’ may be off-putting, alternative house and electronica offer an eclectic affair. Whether a day trip, camping night or a three-day outdoor party, the Ansan Rock Festival is definitely here to put the ‘M’ into Music. * While going to print Dave Grohl fell off a stage in Sweden and has had to cancel some tour dates. Check listings nearer the time to see if this will affect the line-up.

MORE INFO The Ansan M Valley Rock festival takes place at the Daebu Sea Breeze Theme Park grounds between Friday 24th and Sunday 26th July.

Tickets: 1-day: KRW150,000, 2-day: KRW220,000, 3-day: KRW260,00 Tickets are available from Interpark (http://ticket.interpark.com/Global) and Yes24 (http://ticket.yes24.com/English) Daebu Sea Breeze Theme Park, Ansan Ansan Station (Line 4) then take bus 123 to Daebu (approx. two hours).

Direct shuttle buses also run from Seoul.

Check the website for details. www.valleyrockfestival.com www.facebook.com/valleyrockfestival