August 2015

Editorial

August 2015

S

o, school (or work in many of our cases) is finally out for the summer. It’s been a predictably hot, humid and rainy season so far and August is not going to let up. However, summer is here for at least another month and it’s time to make the most of the vacation period and have some time out.

With the holiday spirit in mind, traveling is perhaps on most agendas. With so many destinations to discover both home and abroad, it’s decision time: should we make that annual trip home? Is it feasible to have another regional trip, just because I am based in Korea? Or is the stay-cation not only more fashionable now but also better bang for my won?

The newly revamped travel section will hopefully bring some ideas on how to spend that longawaited free time. Luc Tremblay shares his cycling adventures around the peninsula and talks about this own experiences biking to the East Coast. Rob Shelley goes regional and toward the Philippines as he gets up close and personal with some creepy crawlies at the Kookoo’s Nest in a back to basics

O n

t h e

C O V E R

August 2015

Cover photocourtesy of Resorts World Sentosa, Singapore Tourism Board Cover design by Seong-eun Park This month sees the fiftieth anniversary of Singapore’s independence on August 9 with a host of events planned over the celebratory weekend.

vacation. In this month’s featured country, Singapore celebrates a half century of independence and everyone is invited to the party. With special events lined up over the weekend of August 9, be sure to partake in festivities, even if it just happens to be a stopover to somewhere else.

If the vacation period hasn’t quite started yet, then there are plenty of sports to get involved in this month. Become a team player for the Seoul International Darts League, the Korea Touch Association’s latest tournament or experience some exercise and spirituality with some yoga. If a spectator sport is more appealing, head to Jamsil for some soccer action with Seoul E-Land or see the Doosan Bears or LG Twins’s home fixtures in the Korean Baseball Organization. For those arriving new to the peninsula, the Seoul Global Center and Hallie Bradley’s Soul of Seoul provide advice and some sights away from the beaten track around the capital.

Whether starting a new era of your life in Korea or taking a break from the pali pali walks of our everyday routines, enjoy something new that summer has to offer, whether it be at home or abroad.

ISSUE

106

AUG UST 2015

What’ s in thi s iss ue FOOD AN D DRINK

WELCOME

04 EDITORIAL 10 KEY PEOPLE

Meet Groove’s editorial team and a few of our talented contributors

12 WHAT’S ON

Festivals, concerts, happy hours, networking and events for every day of the month

14 THE NEWS

24 Let’s do something about it

It’s time to PUSH sexual harassment out of our lives

26 Korea Gone Global

It’s not all about the locals as Naomi Blenkinsop discovers some museums with a western edge

28 Rocket X lunch goes to launch

Rocket X Lunch launch its Deep More Deep collection into our high street stores this season

Police rush to wrap up NIS suicide, Ex-first lady to go to Pyongyang on South’s airliner, Chamber head repeats plea for pardons of 2 chaebol leaders, Suspect in poisoncase, 83, denies murder charges

www.groovekorea.com August 2015 6

Hallie Bradley shares her journey in finding the best places around the capital

22 Hair and En-joy

Johnny Jung gives a lowdown on the Hongdae salon

38 Villa Guerrero

Seriously authentic regional tacos—Michoacan style

39 Maddux Pizza

Closer to New York Style than anything in Seoul

40 The Food Scene in Seoul is Rapidly Changing The Way We Write About it Needs To, Too

A southeast Asian drink for Doctor Tiki Restaurant Buzz Find out the restaurant everyone will be crowding for—before the crowds find out

18 The Seoul Global Center

20 Searching For The Seoul

Where do they eat after they feed you?

41 Koh Phi Kolada

COMMUNIT Y

Experience In Every Expat Encounter New to Korea or looking for some answers?

Visit the Seoul Global Center for some good advice

36 Chefs’ Late Night Eats

42 Grocery find

Sammies and coconut water conveniently found

INSIGHT

30 Korea’s Changing Identity

As Korea edges towards a multicultural society, it brings with it questions over identity

34 The 70th Anniversary of Korea’s Independence from Japan A historical look into how Korea got its independence

Recipe: Midnight Curry 5-minute easy recipe using items lying around your kitchen

43 Kimchi bus

Not the Electric Kool-Aid Acid Test bus—but just as well-traveled WTF: Lotte’s Chocolate Shrimp and Strawberry Shrimp Snacks Charlotte Hammond takes one for everyone and tries these Frankensnacks

ISSUE

106

AUG UST 2015

What’ s in thi s iss ue ENTERTAINMENT

TRAVEL

44 Jecheon’s Cultural Summer

56 Following The East Coast Trail

Affair The festival continues with Jeonju’s celebration of film and music

Cycle the summer away between the East Coast and Busan

The capital new boys look back on an intriguing first six months

58 When Two Flew into the

72 Home While Away

60 Singapore’s Golden Jubilee

The Art of the DIY Tour

Singapore’s half-century celebrations are not to be missed

74 Touching base with the KTA

50 Multi-award winning Pharrell

SPORTS

75 Darts of Pleasure

52 The Toasters: The story

Yoga Limits Anna Desmarais discusses the benefits of folding yourself into new and interesting shapes

46 Korean Summer Blockbusters

It’s a summer of Korean blockbusters and here’s three movies you won’t want to miss

48 Juck Juck Grunzie in Europe

Come to Seoul The ‘Happy’ singer arrives in Seoul this month

www.groovekorea.com August 2015

Groove Korea caught up with The Toasters for a chat about touring, life and Korean Cuisine

8

70 Up for the K-League Challenge?

53 Hiroshima’s Walking Ghosts L P Lee remembers the Korean lives that were lost 70 years ago in Hiroshima

54 Alleycon: A Geek Fest In Gwangju It’s time to get your Comic-Con on

Kookoo’s nest Get back to basics at the Kookoo’s Nest

64 Stretching Beyond Your

Being an expatriate K-League fan brings plenty to cheer about

Touch Rugby heads for a big weeknd in the heat of Busan

Fans of arrows cosy up for the Fall Season

66 A Kick, A Punch, and a Whole

Lot More Chung-ju hosts one of the biggest martial arts exhibitions in the world

68 KBO MID-SEASON Report – More

to Come from Seoul’s Teams The KBO season has been a mixed-bag for capital clubs thus far

76

GROOVE LISTINGS

78 MAPS

Blair Kitchener Blair Kitchener is a photographer from New Zealand currently working on a documentary-style project on the neighborhood and residents of Haebangchon in Seoul, as well as another project on contemporary Korea. He hopes to self-publish books on both of these in the not too distant future. To view Blair’s photos visit his website www.blairkitchener.com

Douglas Vautour Douglas Vautour is the scourge of the Hongdae indie scene having shot over 70 bands in the face, up close and personal. He also likes street and travel photography when time and money permit. You can follow up with him at Facebook.com/DouglasVautourPhotography

Joe McPherson Joe founded ZenKimchi, one of Korea’s first food blogs, in 2004. He recently published the best-selling Seoul Restaurant Expat Guide, which has over 400 restaurants inside and is available on Amazon. He also runs KoreaFoodTours.com, which includes the popular Dark Side of Seoul Tour, Korea’s only ghost tour. Joe is Groove Korea’s food & drink editor.

Guy Edward Larke Master Guy Edward Larke has dedicated his life to the pursuit of martial arts, Asian culture, and hoplology. It led him to Korea in 2000, and he now lives in Bundang with his wife, Gi-Ryung, and son, Alexander. He holds black belts in several martial arts including Tae Kwon Do, Hapkido, Taekgyeon, Bon Kuk Kumdo, Karate-do, and Wushu. Currently, he teaches a number of Korean disciplines and Kisa-Do Muye (his own art) in addition to writing for various magazines and running Kisa-Do Muye & Marketing.

He can be contacted at kisadomuye@gmail.com.

10 www.groovekorea.com August 2015

Steven Price Steven Price is the chief writer for kleaguefootball.com. He has lived in Korea for six years and has been watching K-League football since he first arrived, as well as playing football regularly himself. Having already extensively traveled around Korea watching football, Steven aims to visit every K-League ground in the country over the next two years.

Charlotte Hammond Charlotte Hammond is a Seoul-based copywriter for a Korean company. She has previously lived in New York, New Jersey and Trento, Italy.

She blogs about living abroad “etc.” at charlottehammond.net.

Moriah Russell Moriah Russell is a longterm American expat from Miami, Florida. She is a performer, a writer, and an artist of many trades, with a main focus on the connections between art, history, sex, and society. Currently an integral member of P.U.S.H (People Unite against Sexual Harassment), Moriah is helping to organize forthcoming events to promote further awareness of the campaign.

Chance Dorland Chance Dorland is a radio broadcaster and creator of KoreaFM.net, an online radio station for independent musicians and podcasters. Originally from a 1,000 person town in rural Iowa, Chance has embraced a nomadic media lifestyle while jumping from positions with Conan O’Brien, Jimmy Kimmel, Howard Stern, and Adam Carolla to two years in Colombia with the Peace Corps and a year in Berlin as a government fellow. In his spare time, Chance likes to work.

KOREA 5 floor, Shinwoo Bldg. 5-7 Yongsan 3-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul, Korea. th

Contact info (010) 5348-0212 / (02) 6925-5057 Advertising ads@groovekorea.com General inquiries info@groovekorea.com EDITORIAL Di r eC tor

naheen madarbakus naheen@groovekorea.com EDITORIAL

Community Insight FOOD & DRINK ENTERTAINMENT MUSIC TRAVEL SPORTS

naheen madarbakus naheen@groovekorea.com anita mckay anita@groovekorea.com joe mcpherson food@groovekorea.com naheen madarbakus naheen@groovekorea.com chance dorland chancedorland@gmail.com naheen madarbakus naheen@groovekorea.com liam ring liam@groovekorea.com C opy Edi tor s

gil coombe, celeste maturen WRITE RS & C ONTRIB U TORS

blair kitchener, walter stucke, craig stuart hallie bradley, naomi blenkinsop, moriah russell mary hickman, dave hazzan, simon mcenteggart l p lee, annie ridd, rob shelley, jen hisko, jamie koch james harris, luc tremblay, douglas vautour anna desmarais, guy larke, luke butcher david spendley, steve price, renee sarah, dain leathem world martial arts union, sk wyverns seoul international darts league, han cinema singapore tourism board, resorts world sentosa kookoo’s nest, edison museum teddy bear museum, hair & joy, p.u.s.h rocket x lunch, seoul global center, waygeek photography ART & DESIGN

ART DIRECTOR seong-eun park sam@groovekorea.com M ARKETING & AD MINISTRATION

CFO steve seung-jin lee MARKETING DIRECTOR peter chong ACCOUNTING yi-seul oh WEB & MOB ILE

himes design www.himesdesign.com finch professtional services www.finchproservices.com PU B LISH ER

sean choi sean@groovekorea.com

To contribute to Groove Korea, email submissions@groovekorea.com or the appropriate editor.

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To contribute to groovekorea, promote an event or share your opinions, please email naheen@groovekorea.com or the appropriate editor.

The articles are the sole property of GROOVE MEDIA CO. Ltd. No reproduction is permitted without the express written consent of GROOVE MEDIA CO. Ltd. The opinions expressed in the magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher.

Š

All rights reserved Groove Korea Magazine 2015

W hat’ s O N MON

T UE

q

WED

THU

FRI

ANDY WARHOL LIVE

@ Dongdaemun Design Plaza

8

Busan Sea Festival Aug 1-8

Esprit Dior exhibition

@ Dongdaemun Design Plaza until Aug 25

3

6 Appearance in NEPAL photo exhibition to aid NEPAL

@ Seoul Global Cultural Center in Myungdong / Aug 3-7

10

12

ZENA HOLLOWAY - the Fantasy exhibition @ Hangaram Art Museum in Seoul Arts Center

13

MAGIC! Live in Seoul @ AX Korea

17

Imagine Dragons live in Seoul @ Olympic Park

14

Pharrell Williams Live in Seoul @ Olympic Park

20

Antoni GAUDI Barcelona exhibition

@ Hangaram Art Museum in Seoul Arts Center

12 www.groovekorea.com August 2015

27

28 LENKA ‘The Bright Side’ concert @ YES24 MUV hall at Hongdae

26

Hongdae LIVE CLUB day!

Games in August KBO League game schedule

(schedules for Jamsil, Mokdong and Sajik only)

SAT

S UN

1

2

1-2

Samsung vs. Doosan

4-5

NC vs. LG

6-7

NEXEN vs. Doosan

8-9

LG vs. Doosan

11-12

J am si l

KIA vs. NEXEN

Doosan vs. Lotte

NC vs. NEXEN

SK vs. Lotte

M o k do n g

J am si l

Samsung vs. LG J am si l

M o k do n g

NC vs. Doosan

15-16

KIA vs. LG

Lotte vs. NEXEN

18-19

Samsung vs. Doosan

LG vs. Lotte

Incheon PENTAPORT Rock Festival 2015

20-21

LG vs. Doosan

@Songdo pentaport Park

22-23

@ Seoul Worldcup Stadium Aug 1-8

Peace minus one

by G-Dragon

@ Seoul Museum of Art

Aug 7-9

25-26

Sajik

J am si l

13-14

Seoul Fringe Festival

8

J am si l

J am si l

Sajik

Hanhwa vs. NEXEN

J am si l

J am si l

J am si l

M o k do n g

M o k do n g

Sajik

SK vs. NEXEN

KIA vs. Lotte

M o k do n g

Sajik

NEXEN vs. LG J am si l

Lotte vs. Doosan

KT vs. NEXEN

J am si l

M o k do n g

27-28

SK vs. LG

NEXEN vs. Lotte

29-30

Hanhwa vs. Doosan

J am si l

J am si l

Sajik

NC vs. Lotte Sajik

K League schedule

2015 BLEDISLOE CUP <WALLABIES vs ALL BLACKS>

15 21

@ JW Marriott hotel Seoul presented by ANZA, AustCham and KiwiCham /3:30-7:30 / 30,000-75,000w ticket includes buffet bbq, beer, wine and soft drinks

The 70th Anniversary of Liberation Day <NK PROJECT> @ Seoul Museum of Art

28

K League Challenge

K League Classic

1

12

(schedules for Jamsil, Suwon, Ansan, Anyang, Goyang and Bucheon games only)

3

Suwon FC vs. Bucheon FC S uwo n

(schedules for Seoul, Suwon and Jeonju stadiums games only)

Seoul E-Land vs. FC Anyang Suwon FC vs. Seoul E-Land

9

Bucheon FC vs. Ansan Police FC

12

FC Anyang vs. Goyang Hi FC

15

FC Anyang vs. Gyongnam FC

16

Bucheon FC vs. Seoul E-Land

17

Suwon FC vs. Gangwon FC

22

Seoul E-Land vs. Gangwon FC

S uwo n

Suwon

19

An y a n g

Buche o n S uwo n J am si l

23

Bucheon FC vs. Chung ju Hummel FC

26

Bucheon FC vs. Daegu FC

Buche o n Buche o n

29

Seoul E-Land vs. Ansan Police FC

30

Suwon FC vs. Goyang Hi FC

31

FC Anyang vs. Bucheon FC

J am si l

S uwo n

An y a n g

Jeonbuk FC vs. Jeonnam FC Jeonju

Suwon Bluewings vs. Sungnam FC

Buche o n An y a n g

Jeonju

Suwon Bluewings vs. Daejeon Citizen

J am si l

8

Jeonbuk FC vs. Busan

Suwon

22

Suwon Bluewings vs. Ulsan Hyundai Suwon

FC Seoul vs. Daejeon Citizen Seoul

Jeonbuk FC vs. Incheon Utd Jeonju

N ati onal New s

All stories are culled with consent from Korea JoongAng Daily’s website and edited by Groove Korea for length and clarity.

The opinions expressed here do not necessarily represent those of Groove Korea. — Ed.

In association with August 2015 / www.koreajoongangdaily.com

Police rush to wrap up

14 www.groovekorea.com August 2015

NIS suicide M uch mystery continues were deleted. Yim wrote in his suicide note that and operating remote control system (RCS) to surround the appar- he made the decision to delete the material to software that the NIS admitted last week to furtively purchasing from Italian surveillance ent suicide on July 18 of protect the NIS. Police said that according to CCTV footage, malware vendor Hacking Team in 2012. Based a National Intelligence Service (NIS) agent Yim left his house in Yongin at 4:52 a.m. Sunday on data leaked from Hacking Team earlier this involved with the pur- and was confirmed driving his car alone at 5:07 month, opposition lawmakers are accusing the chase and use of hacking programs from an a.m. Five minutes later, he bought one bottle of NIS of spying on voters during the campaigns soju, a pack of cigarettes and two foil barbecue for presidential and local elections in 2012. The Italian company.

The police are being accused of rushing to containers at a supermarket in Cheoin District NIS claimed the RCS programs were only used conclude their investigation, as questions re- in Yongin. At a different convenience store at to collect information on North Korean agents main about how and why the employee, sur- 5:30 a.m., he purchased charcoal in cash. At or for research purposes.

Yim’s grieving family members have told ponamed Yim, ended up taking his life in his car another store 18 minutes later, he bought five on an isolated hillside in Yongin, Gyeonggi. beongaetan, barbecue starters, with a credit lice he had been under stress at work.

There is also concern that he might have been Through preliminary forensic results, police card. At 6:22 a.m., Yim was captured on CCTV said the agent’s death resulted from inhaling footage driving up a road 1 kilometer (0.6 miles) pressured to commit suicide or insulted. But toxic fumes from a coal briquette burned in the from the hill in Idong-myeon, Cheoin District, there was no mention of that in his note.

Even officials from the NIS have said that where he was found dead at noon. car’s interior.

Yim was found in his parked car in an isolat- Yim’s death can’t be explained and that it “canYongin police officials on July 20 said that there were no unusual circumstances sur- ed location slumped over sideways from the not find an answer yet as to why he would have rounding Yim’s death and that their investiga- driver’s seat. The remains of two beongaetan done so.”

A group of bipartisan lawmakers on an inteltion will be concluded once final forensic re- burned in the foil containers were found on the sults come out. While the results may take one front and back seats. The soju bottle was found ligence committee held a meeting July 20 to discuss the case. to two weeks to be released, this signifies the outside the car, but its cap inside.

One ruling Saenuri Party official well-inA Gyeonggi Provincial Police Agency official investigation is, in effect, over.

Lawmakers, legal experts and the public have overseeing the investigation said, “The de- formed about NIS matters told the JoongAng suggested the police take more time for a thor- ceased’s movements that day were generally Ilbo, “As the problematic software dates back to ough examination into why 45-year-old Yim traced, and it is certain that he took his own the previous administration [under President life, so as soon as his final cause of death is Lee Myung-bak in 2012], the auditing team did would have committed suicide.

In a three-page note left in his car, described confirmed, we plan to close the investigation. not feel any pressure and could have investigated without holding back.” by the Yongin East Police on Sunday, Yim de- There is no point in drawing it out.”

The source said that Yim’s role was to plant The blue-inked pen that Yim used to write his nied that the NIS monitored ordinary South Koreans with the software he assisted in buy- final note has not been traced, and the record the malware in mobile devices of foreigners ing or used the programs for election-related of calls on his phone, connections with other who were suspected of terror or pro-North acspying in 2012. He went on to admit that he people and other details that might shed light tivities. “However, if the hacking results were deleted material from NIS records that could on his motive for suicide have not been inves- released, there would be logs traced to these “cause misunderstandings related to counterter- tigated. Thus, there are concerns that the police people, as well as of Koreans.

“It seems Yim was concerned that these mateare rushing to conclude the investigation into rorism and North Korea operations.” rials would be misunderstood as [the NIS] tapControversy is expected to arise over the de- Yim’s death.

Yim was said to be in charge of purchasing ping [regular] Korean citizens.” leted materials, what they were and why they

Keimyung University Dongsan Medical Center

계명대학교 동산의료원

116 years of history The first hospital in Daegu Established in 1899 by an American medical missionary Practicing domestic and international medical volunteer activities for over a Century. ● Leading hospital in attraction of international patients Best Institute Award for attracting International Patients from the Korean Ministry of Health and Welfare in 2010 ● Leading Medical Center in daegu medical tourism ● Specialized Medical Centers : Cardiovascular Center, Cerebrovascular Center, Cancer Center, Digestive System Center, Sleep Center, Obesity and metabolic Surgery Center.

New hospital under construction

Specialized International Healthcare Center ● Affiliated with International SOS ● Language services in English, Chinese, Japanese, and Russian ● Convenient and professional service with the following international insurance companies for direct billing system : Tricare Overseas Program, AETNA International, BlueCross Blueshield,CIGNA International, Foreign Service Benefit Plan, GeoBlue

56 Dalseong-Ro, Jung-Gu, Daegu TEL 053-250-7303 www.dsmc.or.kr

N ati onal New s

In association with

Ex-first lady to go to Pyongyang on South’s airliner

L

ee Hee-ho, widow of former President Kim Dae-jung, will use a South Korean airliner to travel to Pyongyang from Aug. 5 to 8.

“We are planning the visit with a chartered airplane from a South Korean airline,” said Kim Seong-jae, a former Culture Minister and board member of Lee’s nonprofit organization, the Kim Dae-jung Peace Center.

The government is also considering supporting Lee’s trip with funds from its inter-Korean Cooperation Fund.

“We haven’t been officially informed of any governmental support,” Kim said, “but we are still going to pay for a chartered plane even without the government’s help.”

The airline the 92-year-old former first lady will use has not been determined yet. North Korea offered an Air Koryo plane, but the center turned down the offer.

Lee is expected to depart from Incheon International Airport or Seoul Air Base in Seongnam, Gyeonggi, and land at the newly built Pyongyang Sunan International Airport. She will travel along

Chamber head repeats plea for pardons of 2 chaebol leaders

16 www.groovekorea.com August 2015

P

ark Yong-maan, chairman of the Korea Chamber of Commerce & Industry (KCCI), has publicly asked President Park Geun-hye to include two prominent business leaders in her list of pardons to be issued on Aug. 15, Korea’s Liberation Day holiday.

He asked for the pardons of SK Chairman Chey Tae-won, now imprisoned after being convicted of embezzlement, and Hanwha Chairman Kim Seung-youn, whose sentence for illegal intra-group financial transactions was reduced and then suspended after he spent time behind bars.

“Businessmen should be among the candidates for a special pardon for the sake of national harmony and the national interest,” he told reporters on Wednesday during an annual forum the chamber organizes in Jeju Island. “If [the two] are excluded because they are businessmen, that is reverse discrimination. I think the president will make a positive decision.”

This is the second public appeal by the cham-

the Yellow Sea. Lee’s visit sparked speculation that it would thaw frozen inter-Korean relations. It is her first visit to Pyongyang since 2011 when she expressed condolences over the death of Kim Jong-il.

At first, Lee was supposed to visit the North by car, but both sides agreed a flight to Pyongyang was more comfortable for the 92-year-old. The dates for the four-day trip were fixed earlier in July.

The center said that it is finalizing the itinerary with the North’s Korean Asia-Pacific Peace Committee. Who the former first lady will meet has not been decided.

“We haven’t received any message for First Secretary of the Workers’ Party Kim Jong-un from our government,” board member Kim said. “We are not in a position to request those messages and it is the government that decides whether to send a message based on the people’s sentiments on the inter-Korean relationship.”

Kim added, “The North didn’t give any conditions for the visit this time.”

Reporters are not likely to accompany Lee due to opposition by North Korea.

ber’s head, the chairman of Doosan Group, on behalf of the two tycoons. His first was during a press conference in January.

President Park suggested in June that she would consider issuing pardons “for the country’s development and national unity.” She has drawn the ire of the business community for her persistent refusal to go easy on business leaders who run afoul of the law. She made that comment at a meeting with leaders of her Saenuri Party in the National Assembly, where the legislative leaders also pressed her to pardon convicted politicians.

Chey, 54, was arrested in January 2013 for embezzling almost $47 million in corporate funds and began a four-year prison term in February 2014. SK is Korea’s third-largest conglomerate. Hanwha’s Kim, 62, was convicted of illegally diverting funds from healthy affiliates to weaker companies of his group. Despite his release, he remains barred, at least legally, from running his group.

In other comments to the press, the KCCI chairman also called for reflection about the factors that prompted a U.S. hedge fund, Elliott Associates, to mount a management challenge against Samsung C&T. “I wonder if we need to protect a hedge fund that only aims for a quick profit,” he said. “I think companies need a way to guard their management rights. But at the same time, we also should look back on whether we have left some room for such funds to feel tempted to launch an attack.”

Suspect in poisoncase, 83, denies murder charges

A

suspect in a case involving a pesticide-laced soda that led to two deaths and four hospitalizations in a village in Sangju, North Gyeongsang, was detained July 20, authorities said.

The Sangju branch of Daegu District Court in North Gyeongsang, has issued a detention warrant for the 83-year-old woman, surnamed Park, on one murder charge and one attempted murder charge.

“The secured evidence proves the charges are trustworthy, and there are concerns she may be a flight risk or destroy evidence,” the court said.

Park was arrested July 17 on suspicions that she poured pesticide into a soft drink placed in the village hall.

On July 14, six female residents were found unconscious and taken to nearby hospitals after having consumed the drink. Two later died.

So far, a health drink bottle with traces of the same pesticide found in the soft drink is one of the most damning pieces of evidence the police have found in the suspect’s home.

Police said that the top on the bottle of the pesticide-laced soda was the same as the one from the health drink.

A bottle of pesticide was also found in Park’s residence, while certain compounds found in the pesticide were also discovered on her motorized wheelchair and clothes.

Law enforcement has also secured video footage recorded from an ambulance to use as circumstantial evidence. An ambulance was dispatched to the scene after a local resident reported seeing one of the six victims lying outside the village hall. Park was there, but did not mention at the time that there were five more women unconscious inside.

Police said that in the footage, Park then just walked away. About 50 minutes later, the other victims were mobilized to hospitals.

After the six lost consciousness, Park was allegedly at the scene but did not report it.

When questioned, she reportedly said she thought the women were sleeping and cleared what appeared to be foam from around their mouths.

The suspect has continued to deny the charges against her through her lawyer, claiming that someone put the bottle containing traces of the pesticide in her home.

Authorities are currently looking into a statement alleging that Park had an argument on July 13, with one of the victims while playing the Korean card game hwatu in the village hall.

C omm u nit y Ch es t

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

C OMMUNI TY

Story by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring / Photos courtesy of Seoul Global Center

TH E

Global Center

Experience In Every

E x pat E n c o u n t e r

E 18 www.groovekorea.com August 2015

Se o u l

veryone remembers their first day in Korea. Surrounded by Hangeul, locals pushing past one another and not knowing whether cars drive on the left or the right. That new to town feeling, however distant it may be now, is never too far away. With the imminent arrival of new folks starting new contracts, and new lives on our Korean shores, it begs the question: what help is on offer?

The Seoul Global Center is synonymous with its location in Jonggak’s visa immigration building. However, the two should not be confused.

While the immigration office deals with everything visa related, a haven of information, education and expat friendly services awaits upstairs.

Four floors of services are available for all expats residing in Seoul and beyond. Starting on the 4th floor, some of the most popular services are the education classes offered by the center. Korean programs lasting 10 weeks are free for beginner, intermediate and advanced levels with TOPIK preparation classes also available. The next course starts on September 4 with a selection of Monday and

Wednesday or Tuesday and Thursday classes available.

Moving up to the 5th floor and the general consultation area is a free advice center for all expats. The open floor space could be described as a “one stop office service” with dedicated professionals available for those niggling queries. The center has general advisors in over

swer queries for free. Although queries can be passed on to the professionals any day of the week, the center should be called in advance to find out when the advisors will be on site.

The general section also helps with insurance queries and a designated driver’s license office can also help applicants with their renewal, obtaining their license and answering any other questions.

In addition, The Seoul Global Center is a valuable source for anybody wanting to start up a new business.

The 6th and 7th floors are dedicated to new start-ups and business services to encourage expats to try their hand at entrepreneurship. The 7th floor is a business consultation support space with drop-in sessions available for those who need to register a new company or simply seek advice. The six regular staff are trained in general business matters to answer all queries but also have niche experience to help with specific taxation, contract or financial problems. This is also the place to visit if new companies are interested in the center’s business start-up program.

Running for six months a year between January-June and July-December, an incubation office system allows for a total of 32 businesses to use the center’s facilities as temporary office

Specific consultation areas also offer advice in law, real estate and national pensions with working professionals available once a week to answer queries for free.

12 languages including English, Japanese and Chinese as well as Russian, Mongolian and Arabic. They can be contacted by phone or with no appointment in the walk-in center. Specific consultation areas also offer advice in law, real estate and national pensions with working professionals available once a week to an-

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The Seoul Global Center offers a myriad of services waiting to aid expat residents in whatever query they may have

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

space until they are able to run themselves. For a total of one year (so a maximum of one renewal), the incubation office allows for companies to get organized in a regular space and helps those who are mid-expansion or awaiting premises. With 24 “rooms” in the Jonggak office and another eight in Yeouido and Gangnam, the program is designed to help expat businesses get off the ground with expert advice on hand.

Away from the Jonggak offices, community events are also organized through the Seoul Global Center to capture an international community spirit. A flea market runs every third Sunday between April and October (with a rainy season break in August) outside the palace grounds of Gwanghamun. The pitch procedure is simple with applications accepted 2-3 weeks before the market and then an invitation to bring all goods to sell on the day. The center even provides tents to make things easier and sets up a road block on the day to encourage its popularity further. The market runs from 11am-4pm on the day but sellers are invited earlier to set up their stalls.

The Seoul Global Center offers a myriad of services waiting to aid expat residents in whatever query they may have. Information, housing, banking, financial, educational and social needs are all catered for here. So next time you need to renew your visa, pop upstairs and see how the Seoul Global Center can help you.

Services at a Glance… all available at the Seoul Global Center.

Educational Programs

Daily Services

Korean Language Program Starting September 4th (for 10 weeks Mon/Weds or Tues/Thurs) + TOPIK classes on Fridays Free (except textbook)

* Tax counseling * Banking * Insurance * Pension advisor * Driving license application * General advisors (in 12 languages)

Business Programs

Weekly Services

Business Start-Up Program * Apply in June for Jul-Dec * Apply in Dec for Jan-Jun Includes: incubation office, night classes, seminars and consultation sessions

* Lawyer consultation * Real Estate consultation * Labor Law consultation * Trade Union representation * Financial advice

August 2015 www.groovekorea.com 19

MORE INFO Details for Seoul Global Center events can be found on their website or Facebook page.

9am-6pm (lunch period 12pm-1pm). Open Monday to Friday, except Public Holidays. www.global.seoul.go.kr www.facebook.com/SeoulGlobalCenter/info?tab=overview 4f-7f Seoul Global Center Building (Seoring-Dong), Jongno, Jongno-Gu, Seoul, 110-110 Jonggak Station (Line 1, Exit 4).

02-2075-4180

C omm u nit y Ch es t Story and photos by Hallie Bradley

20 www.groovekorea.com August 2015

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

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Searching For

The Seoul

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Hallie Bradley shares the secrets to finding her touring business, the Soul of Seoul

rom time to time I’ve found myself in conversations with people where I have this business idea and later think “Darn, I wish I was some sort of entrepreneur who could just make this idea legit.” Although I have dismissed many of these notions before, my latest idea has come from one of my favorite pastimes and was too difficult to ignore.

I have been blogging on The Soul of Seoul for almost five years now and have included everything from culture (Korean family values and lifestyles), to history, and of course traveling around this beautiful country. As new people come to Korea - and subsequently into my life -, I realized that one of my side passions has been showing them around and not just pointing out the beautiful facades of temples and palaces, but actually showing them places that I, myself, didn’t even find until a year or so after I came to live in Seoul. Wanting to provide a unique bridge between the western world that I came from and the Korean world that I married into, I’ve tried to share what I’ve learned with others; not so much in an “in your face” kind of way, but a more “this is how I’ve managed to stay here for eight years and I’m still going” way.

About eighteen months ago, a new friend put forward an idea for us to team up and start The Soul of Seoul Tours. This was a great opportunity to take a passion that I had and offer it to tourists and newbies and anyone else that was interested in a budget friendly, easy access way that not many other tour groups in Korea were doing. After scoffing at my friend, (who was more of the entrepreneur while I am more of the creative type) I realized she was right. Why not?

Vanessa Easton and I decided to put our heads together and see how real this could become. While we weren’t quite sure where to start or how to become a business, we decided to tell people, friends, family and anyone that

would listen, about our idea. Just putting these notions into words and telling people about it made our ideas all the more real and before we had even made a website, a friend hooked us up with our first gig. This exciting assignment was to take new study abroad students around downtown to eat at a traditional market and to walk along the Cheonggyecheon Stream while introducing them to some of the Korean quirks they were bound to come upon during their stay.

While we were thrust into that tour a bit before we were really ready to launch ourselves, it was a great learning experience and the students gave back some great reviews. It gave us the confidence to spend the next few months building tours we could be proud of, including a set of walks through traditional markets downtown and eating some adventuresome (and not so adventuresome) dishes. The choice is ultimately up to the visitor although some of our walks include exploring the intricate alleys of Bukchon and taking people to our favorite (very) small tea houses and museums that they would probably not find themselves. Other popular routes have led us to lead people on hikes along the Seoul Fortress Wall or dining at restaurants where we help out with the ordering – perhaps a daunting task for anybody new to the peninsula. While Korea can be pretty “user friendly” in some ways, there are certainly aspects of the country that aren’t so easy to understand for newcomers or tourists - and that’s where we like to jump in and help. When people have just a few days to enjoy this city, it’s essential to give advice about good eats, good sights and the places worth visiting.

Another goal for each tour is to provide ample information along the routes on other locations nearby so that guests will want to go back after the tour and continue exploring the area on their own. For example, en route downtown, we point out the Dongdaemun alleys for shopping ventures and Heunginjimun Gate for an impromptu hike along the Seoul Fortress Wall. The Soul of Seoul Tours wants to promote constant adventure, education and cultural acceptance through such experiences.

While the ideas and the logo almost threw itself together, setting up a business in Korea wasn’t so easy. Places like the Yeouido Business Center provide useful information, but if you don’t have any assets or a large sum of cash on hand, there are many roadblocks to get through. However, it is by no means im-

possible. We started our tours with friends and friends of friends, and this past year, have included touring with people that have read the blog or found our tour site on search engines and that was a thrill. A study abroad counsellor even commented how students liked that they “were introduced to new parts of the city, were taught a little history and were given ideas on how to enjoy the areas on their own.” To see our ideas realized has been amazing.

The Soul of Seoul Tours currently offers seven different tours in Seoul and has recently started night options; taking people out to eat at restaurant favorites and teaching visitors some of the Korean cultural norms around the table during a meal. The tours cater to families and students and we will hopefully team up with other fellow expats soon to provide some fun hands-on events where visitors can make and learn about traditional crafts and have further adventures.

So far, visitors from the US, Europe and Australia have joined us and been introduced to Korean cuisine, history and traditions. One of the most memorable tours was with a recent family from Australia. The Soul of Seoul took them around for three days which was the first time the tour had engaged with the same group for multiple days. A mom, a dad, a teenage daughter and a 76-year-old grandmother made for some great adventures which culminated in a hike along the Seoul Fortress Wall. Making allowances to accommodate such a broad age group meant the tour wasn’t about watching the clock. If a solo traveler, family or student can walk away happy with their experience and feels as though they have learned something, then the job has been well done.

After almost nine years in Korea, I can say that this is a great place to take those ideas that are bouncing around in my head and make them real. The opportunities are almost endless and there are so many people that are willing and wanting to help. It’s time to grab your own opportunity.

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The Soul of Seoul Tours Mon-Fri (by reservation) Cost: KRW 40,000- KRW 80,000 (email for more information) www.thesoulofseoultours.com www.thesoulofseoul.net thesoulofseoultours@gmail.com

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MMPK Meeting 7pm / Cost: KRW 10, 000 Please check the website for the location www.mmpkorea.wordpress.com

KISS Salsa Classes 7.30pm-8.30pm (beginner) 8.30pm-9.30pm (intermediate) / Cost: 10,000 won non-band nights/ 15,000 won band nights SAMOS, Yonsero-5-dakil 22-3, 3rd floor, Chang Cheon-dong Sodemun-gu, Seoul EVERY TUES

A Traditional Market Food Adventure

KRW50,000, 2 hours: Get introduced to downtown Seoul with a walk that ends in a market full of authentic and rather adventuresome Korean cuisine.

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Prices vary depending on choice: Try three different restaurants with three different styles of cuisine and a spectrum of delicacies from meat and beer to makkoli and Korean style vegetable pancakes.

Wandering in Bukchon

KRW50,000, 2 hours: Find the old Hanoks, drinks tea in a traditional manner and even partake in some traditional crafts while learning about history and Buddhism in Korea.

Culture, History & Food ! Oh My !

KRW85,000, 3 hours: Popular with visitors who want a little of everything from food, history, Buddhism and a big cup of tea.

Hike Along Fortress Walls

Let’s Do Lunch !

KRW31,000 – KRW36,000, 1.5 hours: Learn about Korean eating and drinking etiquette over any fried food you could think of or delicious pig’s feet.

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Traditional Painting 2pm-3.30pm / Cost: Free Seoul Global Cultural Center 5th floor, M-Plaza Building, 27 Myeong-Dong 8-gil, Jung-gu, Seoul

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Taekkyeon Experience for Foreigners 10am-12pm / Cost: Free Itaewon Global Village Center, 5f Hannam Building, 737-37 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-Gu, Seoul 140-893

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Pottery Class: Grape Flowerpot 1pm-3pm / Cost: KRW 11,000 Itaewon Global Village Center, 5f Hannam Building, 737-37 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-Gu, Seoul 140-893

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Advanced Hanji Craft 2pm-3.30pm (Every Fri) Cost: KRW 10,000 per month Seoul Global Cultural Center 5th floor, M-Plaza Building, 27 MyeongDong 8-gil, Jung-gu, Seoul

August 2015 www.groovekorea.com 21

KRW40,000, 2 hours: Enjoy a guided tour along the Seoul Fortress Wall to learn about the history of the wall as well as tales of invasion and intrigue.

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Legal Consultation Itaewon Global Village Center, 5f Hannam Building, 737-37 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-Gu, Seoul 140-893

Hanji Craft 2pm-3.30pm / Cost: Free Seoul Global Cultural Center 5th floor, M-Plaza Building, 27 Myeong-Dong 8-gil, Jung-gu, Seoul EVERY THURS

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Food, Food & More Food !

weekdays

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Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

Tax Counseling/ Banking/ Insurance / Pension / Driving license advice Mon-Fri (drop-in center) / Cost: Free Seoul Global Center 4f-7f Seoul Global Center Building (Seoring-Dong), Jongno, Jongno-Gu, Seoul, 110-110

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MORE INFO The Soul of Seoul Tours are available Monday through Friday year-round by reservation only. Please contact us if you have any tour ideas or would like to work with us.

KRW 40,000 – KRW 80,000 for 2-3 hr tours.

Reservations can be made through email. www.thesoulofseoultours.com www.thesoulofseoul.net thesoulofseoultours@gmail.com

by reservation

TOUR

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

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Neig hb or hood Wat c h

Hair & Joy CEO Johnny Jung shares his views on hairdressing, styling and the enjoyable experience

N 22 www.groovekorea.com August 2015

Story by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring / Photos by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring

estled just behind Hongik Station’s exit 8, the third floor premises of the Hair & Joy salon is a welcoming break from the action-packed streets outside. The glass door opens into a cozy reception area, with familiar branded hair products carefully displayed on the shelves and a comfy couch area to wait in total relaxation. Country music plays in the background and another shelf, this time of the book variety, houses a mixture of literature and magazines while you await your consultation. And all this is before being seated with a stylist.

Hair & Joy has an antique feel to its surroundings with vintage framed mirrors and flowery designed paper lining the walls. The salon, which opened some six years ago, has recently been remodeled to have a bigger hair washing area and more stylist pods. The salon has an open space set-up with the mirrors lined in the middle of the floor to allow for a roomier feel.

With a maximum capacity of 11 customers at one time, it’s unsurprising that Friday and Sat-

urday appointments are valuable slots for those planning a big night out.

Founding CEO Johnny Jung has since added a number of services to the salon which has been the result of feedback from established customers. In addition to regular haircuts, coloring with low lights and highlights and a range

residents; however, with an impressive 60/40 ratio of expat customers compared to Korean visitors, Johnny is undoubtedly doing something right. His training in London’s Toni & Guy and Vidal Sassoon along with the fact that all of his stylists have some overseas training experience likely bolsters his reputation among

However, with an impressive

60/40 ratio of expat customers compared to Korean visitors, Johnny is undoubtedly doing something right of straightening options have become the most popular requests at the salon. Johnny believes that customer requests dictate the services that are offered and how Hair & Joy are adamant to provide what their clients want.

Moving on to the clients themselves, Hongik may not seem a predominantly expat abode for

the expat clientele who keep coming back.

Certainly, the fact that all stylists can speak English may put one’s thoughts and barnets at ease, reassured by the knowledge that you are not leaving through those glassy doors with a purple rinse (unless requested of course).

Hair & Joy pride themselves on their knowl-

Country music plays

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Stitch n Bitch Meet 2.30pm / Cost: Free De Lambre Coffee Shop Jongno-gu Jongno 2-ga 75-8

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Volunteer Activity

Yongsan Center for the Disabled 2pm-4pm / Cost: Free but sign-up prior to the session www.global.seoul.go.kr/Itaewon Itaewon Global Village Center, 5f Hannam Building, 737-37 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-Gu, Seoul 140-893

CLASS

Afterschool Art Class for Kids & Adults: Passport Case 3.30pm-5pm / Cost: KRW 6,000 Itaewon Global Village Center, 5f Hannam Building, 737-37 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-Gu, Seoul 140-893

Volunteer Activity

Senior Welfare Center 1pm-2pm / Cost: Free but sign-up prior to the session www.global.seoul.go.kr/Itaewon Itaewon Global Village Center, 5f Hannam Building, 737-37 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-Gu, Seoul 140-893 THURS

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20 edge and global knowledge at that. Products used are limited to familiar brands from most English-speaking countries including L’Oreal, Wella and Bedhead with Johnny recently taking advice from professionals in Japan too. A firm favorite with clients is the popular Moroccan hair treatment products; a range specializing in oil-based products which Johnny explains help individuals maintain healthy-looking, glossy hair that can be shaped into different styles more easily. The salon can help start treatments at the appointment on the premises and then clients can continue them at home.

It’s been a fruitful and successful six years and there’s no reason for it not to continue. A firm and creative team of five English-speaking stylists, a varied and popular program of styles and treatments and familiar branded products make the salon attractive, approachable and appealing. Offering a personal service all the time, communication is the key to a personal stylist-client relationship and a good haircut. Johnny is learning all the time by following his motto, “We listen, we open our minds.” It’s time to spread the word, it’s time to love your hair and it’s time to enjoy the experience. And that’s something that Hair & Joy can bring.

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Volunteer Activity

Young Nak Aenea’s Home 2pm-4pm / Cost: Free but sign-up prior to the session www.global.seoul.go.kr/Itaewon Itaewon Global Village Center, 5f Hannam Building, 737-37 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-Gu, Seoul 140-893

CLASS

Hanji Craft Class: Moon Lamp 10am-12pm / Cost: KRW 20,000 Itaewon Global Village Center, 5f Hannam Building, 737-37 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-Gu, Seoul 140-893

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Aroma Candle Making Class 1pm-3pm / Cost: KRW 15,000 Itaewon Global Village Center, 5f Hannam Building, 737-37 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-Gu, Seoul 140-893 FRI

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Korean Traditional Rice Wine: Magkeolli Making 3pm-5pm / Cost: KRW 10,000 Itaewon Global Village Center, 5f Hannam Building, 737-37 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-Gu, Seoul 140-893

FESTIVAL

August Salsa Beach Festival From 6pm / Cost: Various programs.

Please check website Miterre Hotel, Mervill Pension and Hamdeok Beach, Jeju. http://salsafestival.alltheway.kr/

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August 2015 www.groovekorea.com 23

MORE INFO Hair & Joy is a salon offering cuts, colors and treatments, six days a week.

Mapo-gu Donggyo-dong 168-3, Hongnam Building, 3rd Floor Hongik University Station (Line 2, Exit 8).

Two minutes walking distance from the station.

10am-8pm (Tuesday-Saturday) 10am-7.30pm (Sunday) Closed Mondays 02-363-4253 / 010-5586-0243 www.hairandjoy.com

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

K-Pop Dance Class 4.30pm-6pm / Cost: KRW 5,000 a class/ KRW 10,000 a month Seoul Global Cultural Center 5th floor, M-Plaza Building, 27 Myeong-Dong 8-gil, Jung-gu, Seoul

EVERY WEDS

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in the background and another shelf, this time of the book variety, houses a mixture of literature and magazines while you await your consultation.

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Story by Moriah Russell / Photos by P.U.S.H,Moriah Russell

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

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Neig hb or hood Wat c h

L e t’s

g n i h t e m

o S Do t I t Ab o u

ssment to PUSH People Unite Agains t St reet Hara t he s t reet s t hat uncom for table feeli ng off

24 www.groovekorea.com August 2015

“H

ey! How deep is your PUSSY?!” is all I hear en route to the gym as a carload of men roll down their windows to yell at me at the red light. I’m wearing a sports bra that made my breasts (dare I dream) perky under my shirt. Ughh. I shouldn’t have had my own car windows down anyway. Maybe if I sit a little lower in my driver’s seat and get car window tints, then I wouldn’t ‘attract so much attention.’ Whatever. It’s not a big deal.

I mean, it’s all just “part of living here.”

And I should’ve taken a different route.

Okay, so now my brain is working overtime. Is my bra showing? No, it’s not even showing. Am I overreacting?

Maybe he was just trying to be nice (while looking me up and down).

Forget the safety of the car; it’s no better when walking on the road.

“Look at the tits on that. Hey nice tits… Can’t you hear me? …SLUT.” “It’s none of your business where I live.” I told him repeatedly I’ve got a boyfriend. Why should I have to be nice or lie, walk with a purpose or not look in certain directions? Then I hear behind me, “I don’t

get why women [and maybe other oppressed minorities] have such bad self-esteem and can’t take a compliment.”

But you’ve heard all of this before. And if you feel stereotyped by my account, you deserve to be angry. Maybe their behavior is more often the acts of men but I refuse to forget the strong and respectful men who don’t do this.

Many of us have been brainwashed to automatically blame the victim. I, too, once blamed myself for the crimes committed against me. The day came when my shame, my anger, and my belief that I had no power to fix these issues became too painful. My life meant more. With honesty, awareness, and action, I can confidently say that I know how deep a pussy is. So deep, it housed each of us long enough to know working for kindness and freedom makes an incredible world.

Our generations have sung and danced together with Girl Power and an anthem led by a sweet and powerful man in Kurt Cobain who wailed “Rape Me, Rape Me. I’m not the only one!”

Some of our parents told us horror stories about “men who do bad things to little kids.” Oh geez. She can’t possibly be saying STREET HARASSMENT is the same as rape! So all men are bad, right?

Stop. Let’s look at the facts.

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make the streets a safer place.

August 2015 www.groovekorea.com 25

We are raised in societies that teach us not to get raped instead of not to rape. We are raised in societies that blame the victim, allow bullying, street harassment, and rape to be ignored, denied - silenced.

Questions antagonize the situation further: “What were you wearing?”

“How much did you drink?” As do the responses: “Well, I’m sorry but she was asking for it”. “She’s just easy anyway”.

The advice that follows is just as teeth grinding: “Always have your keys ready.” “Walk with a purpose.”

“Take self defense.” “Change routes.”

“Move.” “Just ignore them.” “Stand up for yourself.” “Don’t let yourself get hurt.”

Rarely do we hear: “I’m sorry.” “You don’t deserve that.” “It’s not your fault.” ”Let’s do something about it.” AND even if we do, it sounds just like lip service rather than being backed up by actual support.

We can no longer deny these offenses. And we can no longer wait for others to lead.

Street harassers intimidate to gain ego, power and control. Minorities are most often the victims. This is a human rights issue that reveals the discrimination. It is cross-cultural, and is happening daily, often escalating into harsher situations of violence.

It blurs the lines that separate right and wrong; compliments and harassment. Silencing harassment okays bad behavior and let s it get worse. Suddenly we ask, “How could this rape happen?

Why did they stay in an abusive relationship?” Ultimately, we are all humans who deserve equality, respect, kindness, and freedom from suffering.

And we all have the power to unite and fix these issues.

P.U.S.H. (People Unite against Street

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

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Labor Seminar for E-2 & E-7 Visa Holders Harassment), is an organi10am-12pm / Cost: Free zation that was formed in Itaewon Global Village Center, 5f Hannam April 2015, in HaebangcBuilding, 737-37 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-Gu, Seoul 140-893 heon, Seoul, in response to a large number of sexual FRI harassment cases. These CLASS cases have included verbal SE PT Korean Language Program sexual comments, gropMon/Weds or Tues/Thurs ing, stalking and physical (various classes over 10 weeks) Cost: Free (except textbook) violence towards women Seoul Global Center that have occurred in the 4f-7f Seoul Global Center Building (SeoringHBC/Noksapyeong/ItaeDong), Jongno, Jongno-Gu, Seoul, 110-110 won areas.

CLASS I joined P.U.S.H. for reaLiving in Seoul Orientation sons I won’t censor. The 10am-11.30am / Cost: Free harsh, disgusting and trauItaewon Global Village Center, 5f Hannam matic reality is my sexuBuilding, 737-37 Hannam-dong, al harassment and rape Yongsan-Gu, Seoul 140-893 cherries were popped long CLASS ago, and I’m a domestic violence “surNapkin Art: Hat Holder vivor.” Though I’m fed up, it makes 10am-11.30am / Cost: KRW 10,000 me smile to work with P.U.S.H., rise Itaewon Global Village Center, 5f Hannam against these stereotypes, and comBuilding, 737-37 Hannam-dong, mit to social responsibility.

Yongsan-Gu, Seoul 140-893 Even if we weren’t groped at the THURS HBC CU Mart. Even if we haven’t SEMINAR been stalked up the hill or the alleys SEPT Still Standing (PUSH) where we live. Even if you’re not do7pm / Cost: Free ing the harassing. Even men - espeBonny’s Pizza Basement, cially men - can and should help to Haebongcheon, Seoul stop street harassment. As a survivor www.facebook.com/PUSHKorea/ of domestic violence, I am forever grateful to the women who have helped me, but I cannot emphasize how important the men who helped me were too. They helped break my denial when they stood in stark contrast to my male abuser and called out the To stop harassment everywhere, and behaviors I was desensitized protect the members of our community to.

We can all be socially reby working closely with businesses, sponsible. Let’s be good individuals, and authorities to promote bystanders. Don’t wait for a safe and peaceful environment, someone else to get help. whereby everyone can feel free to walk Make that first move. As a outside without fear, nor hesitation for community, we can all work together on this. their dignity and integrity.

P.U.S.H. welcomes any P.U.S.H. volunteers that want to People Unite against Street Harassment be an active part in helping stop street harassment.

Help us talk about our cause, stop victim-blaming, be an effective bystander, get educated, educate others, post your stories, visit a meeting, volunteer, help organize future events, donate or Like our Facebook page: MORE INFO g” /PUSHKorea. One click can show “Still Standin s genres Next event from variou s ce you the details of our next meetings, an rm fo er p rk with f o w t a nigh sic) that o as well as more of what you can do n word, mu ke o ent sp m y, er ed w (com d Empo to help. f Survival an o es em th the People subjected to street harassul eptember 17 gcheon, Seo Thursday S ment aren’t asking for it, but we are ent, Haebon em as B za iz a/ Bonny’s P asking for your help. We are here to /PUSHKore ebook.com ac .f w w w spread the word, educate and to help

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

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The Edison Museum The Edison Museum in Gangwondo is hailed as the largest Edison Museum in the world. It draws in 500,000 domestic and foreign visitors annually, making it a tourist attraction for Edison aficionados around the world.

Originally opened in 1982 as Charmsoribang, the museum was used to display both Edison relics and inventions and more renowned gramophones from around the world. In 2007, the exhibition halls split into two different museums (The Charmsori Gramophone Museum and the Thomas Edison Museum) to accommodate an increased demand for more specialized museums in South Korea.

The president and founder, Son Sung-Mok, reveals that he became passionate about gramophones and all things Edison during his travels abroad. He traveled through 60 countries—in sometimes perilous conditions—in order to collect over 5000 gramophones. The enthusiast collected over 2000 Edison keepsakes alone including gramophones, light bulbs, and projectors, which couldn’t fit into his museum and are now, alongside an additional 3500 pieces, kept in storage to be displayed periodically in 3 to 4 year rotations. The Outdoor Automobile Pavilion displays Edison’s electric vehicle and several 1920’s Ford automobiles to also celebrate some of the world’s most important inventions.

Korea Gone Global

The museum experience goes beyond local to dabble in some international findings Story by Naomi Blenkinsop Photos courtesy of Edison Museum, The Chocolate Museum, Teddy Bear Museum

26 www.groovekorea.com August 2015

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esidents in South Korea do not have to look very far for ways to experience and learn more about the culture firsthand. With thousands of traditional Korean restaurants, scores of museums and galleries and plenty of outdoor sites to soak up the local customs, it’s surprising to see that more recently, South Korea has become more of a mecca of international culture.

Aside from the domestic offerings, international pop culture, cuisines and products are also trending like never before in South Korea. Additionally, museums have taken a turn, offering themed venues to educate and entertain curiosity further. Some of these museums have experienced tremendous success in South Korea and likewise, have actually been renowned as international attractions that visitors purposely add to their to-do list. Here are three of the top picks from around the country.

MORE INFO: Charmsori Gramophone and Thomas Edison Museum 36 Jeo-dong, Gangneung-city, Gangwon-do Province Take an intercity bus to Gangneung Intercity Bus Terminal.From Gangneung Terminal, take bus 202. Get off at Gyeongpodae and walk 200m to the museum.

033-655-1130 edisonlamp@hanmail.net www.edison.kr/english/contents/museum/ museum_01.php Adults: KRW 7,000 / High School: KRW 6,000 / Children: KRW 5,000 9am-5pm, 9am-6pm (summer season)

The Chocolate Museum on Jeju Island is a chocoholic’s dream come true. It is also an international attraction as the second largest chocolate museum in the world. The founder, Han Ya-Seok, became a certified chocoholic during his travels abroad. He actively sought the chocolate relics and delicacies from around the world to bring back to Jeju to start his own museum. Han’s hard work and passion has certainly paid off and made this particular museum an international attraction in its own right.

The museum looks like an ancient castle made of volcanic scoria – a substance that can only be found on Jeju - and is surrounded by an impressive European-style stone wall. Visitors are greeted by a cocoa god at the entrance of the museum and after paying an entrance fee of KRW 5,000, are given a complimentary cup of coffee to savor on a leisurely stroll. The three floors that make up this castle-like museum include a gallery, theater, café, workshop and chocolate store. In Collection Square, a wide array of chocolate cases from around the world and several vintage chocolate movie posters (such as Charlie and the Chocolate Factory) are on display. Secrets behind chocolate making, including the exact ingredients used to make it along with a matching choco kettle and manufacturing machine for inspiration, line a chocofest room which even has a chocolate waterfall centerpiece to marvel at.

Visitors are encouraged to make and enjoy their own chocolate in the Handmade Chocolate Room. Several samples of handmade chocolate are given to visitors, making this museum very delicious indeed. For those needing a break from all the choco-mania, a Christmas-themed café offers a different environment. Don’t forget to buy some handmade chocolate from the Chateau Chocolat as a delicious souvenir of your visit at one of the best chocolate museums in the world before you leave.

Teddy bears, which originally hail from the United States, have become a quite popular phenomenon in South Korea. The Teddy Bear Museum located on Jeju Island offers visitors an impressive international selection of teddy bears. The museum is so popular these days that a total of five teddy bear museums span the peninsula with each offering distinct and impressive exhibits to please teddy bear fans of all ages.

The halls of the Jeju museum are split into three sections: The History Hall, The Art Hall and The Project Exhibition Hall. The History Hall arranges the collection of bears by famous historical scenes, including the coronation of Queen Elizabeth, The Mona Lisa and the moon landing. The Art Hall offers more contemporary designs, displayed by world famous artists and The Project Exhibition Hall has the world’s smallest teddy bear – a highlight not to be missed. World famous and time honored teddy bears such as Paddington Bear, Winnie the Pooh and Rupert the Bear are also on permanent display.

MORE INFO: Teddy Bear Museum 31, Jungmungwangwang-ro 110beon-gil, Seogwipo-si, Jeju-do From Jeju-do International Airport, take an airport limousine 600. Get off at Yeomiji Botanical Garden in Jungmun sightseeing complex. (15 minute interval, 50 minute ride). Then walk for 5 mins.

064-738-7600 www.teddybearmuseum.com Fees: Adults: KRW 9,500 / Teenagers KRW 8,500 / Children KRW 7,500 won July to August 9am-10pm Non-peak season: 9am-8pm For information on other teddy bear museums in South Korea please visit www. teddybearmuseum.com.

These are only a few of the theme museums that have sprung up in recent years and celebrated great success. Several others which have imported brands, collections and relics are also experiencing great success in South Korea. These museums have become international attractions and attract thousands of foreign visitors and residents every year. Take a break from the hanguk traditions without even leaving the country and get back in touch with the West – even if it is for one afternoon only.

August 2015 www.groovekorea.com 27

MORE INFO: Chocolate Museum 551-18 Ilgwan-ri Daejeong-eup Seogwipo City, Jeju-do, South Korea Bus number 300 , Get off at Weolseongmaeul Village 1, transfer to Pyeonghwarobeon, get off at Boseong-ri, walk 30 meters 064-792-3121 www.chocolatemuseum.org (Korean only) KRW 5,000 (comes with a cup of coffee) March to June : 10am-6pm /July to August: 10am-7pm /September to October: 10am6pm / November to February: 10am-5pm

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

The Teddy Bear Museum C OMMUNI TY

The Chocolate Museum

C OMMUNI TY Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

Rocket

Lunch

Goes To Launch Jin Won Woo’s casual yet creative women’s collection l a u n c h e s o n t o t h e S e o u l m a r k e t

28 www.groovekorea.com August 2015

J

in Won Woo is no stranger to the fashion world. In fact, with three years of experience and eleven collections under his belt, some may say he is even a veteran. However, Jin Won’s career is only just starting and with a guy creating women’s collections year after year, it may sound like he has bitten off more than he can chew.

Well, the critics would be wrong there.

Fresh from a successful Seoul Fashion Week runway on the Generation Next catwalks, Jin Won’s latest 2015 collection has a firmly established contemporary casual women’s wear brand in Rocket X Lunch. Launching in 2012, the label has epitomized casual colors in loose fitting garments which have ranged

from shorts, dresses, skirts and culottes for every type of lady. Rocket X Lunch is a no fuss but sophisticated label with simple and minimalistic designs complete with unique details for each and every garment.

Rocket X Lunch is also no stranger to the high street, with the latest Deep More Deep collections stocked by A-Land stores up and down the country and more than 20 other retailers in the UK, Canada, Hong Kong, Singapore and China. Jin Won recalls how his first break into the high street came with his first taste of the fierce competition that the fashion industry brings. He entered – and won - a prize at the Doota Venture Designer contest in 2012 which awarded him and the label with the chance to open a store in Doota Shopping Center.

Story by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring / photos courtesy of Rocket X Lunch

As the designer explains, this was the perfect opportunity to launch Rocket X Lunch; although he admits it was the start of a big adventure as he didn’t have any idea about how to go about this kind of work.

Jin Won had previous aspirations to be an architect. He used to draw all day and then started to make models from his designs.

Soon after, he started to design and make clothes and found this to be more satisfying.

It wasn’t long after that he decided to change his career path from architecture to fashion, graduating from Kyung Hee University after majoring in Textiles and Apparel. And since 2012, he hasn’t looked back.

He admits that everything around him inspires his designs but find the arts, such as music and movies and the different experiences he gains from traveling are his main motivations. Within fashion itself, Jin Won identifies French designer Jacquemus as one of his biggest mentors, mirroring the European label’s own free and minimalistic designs reflecting the current trends in his own creations.

Depicting the Rocket X Lunch consumer as a lady in her 20s who has a strong personality and a sensitivity to new trends, Jin

Won foresees his own garments as the ones sought by the public. Describing the label’s style as wide, oversized, loose and baggy, natural colors are central to the casual theme of the label, as are the individual details used to portray the unique qualities of each and every customer. Jin Won explains further “the brand is simple and unique so you can’t find this look anywhere. It will be harmonized with your clothes in your wardrobe. If you want to be a hip girl, then this is the label for you.”

When asked of his biggest career highlight to date, Jin Won doesn’t choose his impressive Doota designing contest win. Or the fact that he currently distributes his lines in seven countries internationally. Much like his designs, he returns to his domestic roots and simply identifies Seoul Fashion Week’s Generation Next show as his biggest achievement. He says “every designer there has such brilliant talent. So somebody must have recognized me as a good designer”. His designs speak for themselves with simplicity yet unique styles that bring the latest women’s wear into contemporary fashion. Let the Rocket X Lunch launch into your fashionista world this summer.

Rocket X Lunch

More Info: Rocket X Lunch The 2015 collection is available directly from the showroom or from a number of A Land stockists around Korea. See the website for individual addresses. www.rocketxlunch.com rocketxlunch@gmail.com www.facebook.com/rocketxlunch rocketxlunch_official B1F, Cheongin bldg., 25-6, Ssangnim-dong, Jung-gu, Seoul, Korea Dongdaemun History & Culture Museum Station (Line 4 and 5, Exit 5 or 6) 02-2263-7389

The Rocket X Lunch Deep More Deep Fall/ Winter collection has the perfect overcoat for the change in season. Whether needing something for those pending cooler evenings or a bigger covering for the upcoming winter nights, the Pleats Piping Coat is a two-way coat which you can wear in any season.

Sold as a long coat, the garment can be transformed into a shorter, summer version because the pleats are detachable. Jin won describes the beauty in its movement, as the coat has been designed so the pleats move like water when walking. Available in blue and black, the KRW 289,000 price tag gets two coats for the price of one.

Edited by Anita McKay (anita@groovekorea.com)

I N S I G H T

Korea’s

Id e n t i t y As Korea edges towards a multicultural society,

it brings with it questions over identity

30 www.groovekorea.com August 2015

“I

think it’s positive,” Shauente Waters, an American English teacher, says of the multicultural label that is used to describe her family. “At the moment for Korean people, multicultural is OK,” Shin, Dong-beom (DB), her husband, offers. “Before [they would ask] ‘Why did you marry a foreigner?’ They thought that we had to marry a Korean person.”

Shauente came to Korea in 2008. Within four years she had met and married her now husband and they currently have two children, 3-year-old Kai and 8-month-old Casey. While their experience of being a multicultural, multiracial family in Korea has been positive, Shauente still feels more consideration needs to be given to the concept of who is considered Korean.

“The one question he always gets is ‘Oh, where are you from? At first my husband would always say ‘He’s from here,’ but now he just says, ‘Oh, he’s American,’ even though he’s speaking Korean,” she says about her 3-year-old son.

“They don’t see a Korean person, they see a foreigner.”

Korea’s social landscape is changing. Since 2006, there has been a steady increase in the population of foreign residents entering and settling on the southern peninsula. This in-

Story by Anita McKay / Photos by Blair Kitchener

flux of immigration, spurred by job opportunities and marriage, has brought with it new cultures, ethnicities, and lifestyles to a country that is considered one of the most homogenous in the world.

This has challenged the belief in Korea’s ethnocultural identity — a belief that is still widespread enough to push Shauente and DB to leave.

“I guess I just worry about my kids because [Kai] does look more American, more black American,” Shauente says. “I don’t want him to have a negative experience here. It’s ok in daycare — the kids are sweet. It’s once you get to elementary school.”

Shauente Waters, an English teacher from the US

I N S I G H T Edited by Anita McKay (anita@groovekorea.com)

Driving diversity an to be elected to government, having been selected as a proportional representative for the ruling Saenuri Party. Her appointment to date has been marred by controversy, and she has been the target of xenophobic comments decrying the idea of multiculturalism.

While efforts have been made to help Korea in its transition toward a multicultural society, changing the one bloodline mind-set that has been dominant for so long may require more time.

Brandan D’Amico, an English teacher from the US and his girlfriend, Sonja van den Berg, a Korean adoptee from the Netherlands who is a PhD candidate at Ewha Womans University, have an 18-month-old daughter. One of the reasons they have ruled out raising a family in Korea is because of the treatment their child could face in school from her peers.

After showing a student a photograph of his daughter, Brandan was told that she should expect some confrontation when she gets to middle school. “The first thing [the student] said is

‘She’s pretty, she looks healthy — you must be a proud dad.’ And then a couple of weeks later, he saw another photo that I just thought I would show at the end of class and he said ‘She’s not going to have a good time in school.’”

When Brandan asked why he was told its “because it’s very easy to see that she’s not 100 percent Korean.”

The idea of who is Korean is changing. In 2012 biracial babies accounted for 4.7 percent of all births — an increase from 2.9 percent in 2008 — signaling a change in the demographics. Still, cases of discrimination and xenophobia are not uncommon. Last year Mutuma Ruteere, the U.N. special rapporteur on racism, called on the government to develop anti-discrimination laws stating that multiculturalism is “not a one-way street.” He urged the government to “prevent the proliferation of racist and xenophobic movements” by dispelling claims made by groups which oppose multiculturalism that government policies on the issue discriminate against Koreans.

August 2015 www.groovekorea.com 31

Over the past 10 years, the number of foreign residents in Korea has more than tripled. The latest government figures show that the foreign population — which include naturalized Koreans and their children, those who acquired citizenship from marriage, as well as non-Korean passport holders who have been in the country for more than 90 days — account for 3.4 percent of the population. While international marriages have been decreasing since 2006, they still accounted for just over 7 percent of all marriages in 2014.

With this year-on-year increase in the foreign population, the government has developed and implemented new policies aimed at accommodating the demographic change. In 2006, it was announced that Korea’s ethics textbook would include the concept of a multicultural and multiethnic society, challenging the idea of the one bloodline nation. Four years later it became mandatory for sons from multicultural families to serve in the military. In 2012, Philippine-born Jasmine Lee became the first naturalized Kore-

I N S I G H T Edited by Anita McKay (anita@groovekorea.com)

Michael Cardoza, an English textbook writer from the US

32 www.groovekorea.com August 2015

C u lt u r a l d i ff e r e n c e s In 2008, the Multicultural Families Support Act — which defines a multicultural family as any foreigner in Korea who has or has had a marital relationship with a Korean national or a family which includes a naturalized Korean — was established to help multicultural families integrate into Korean society. According to the Ministry of Gender, Equality and Family, there are currently 159 multicultural family support centers nationwide providing language, employment, education, and family support. Even with this support available, there are some issues that government policies can’t help.

After the birth of their first child, Shauente and DB had to find a balance between what she describes as his “old-school Korean” view of running a household and her attitude that the responsibilities should be shared.

“Even though I work, he automatically thinks I should do more with the kids because I’m the mother,” she said.

“We had some problems with the first baby, but now with the second one he’s like ‘OK, I’ll help clean and I’ll help do this with the kids.’”

One of the biggest challenges Shauente faces with her 3-year-old son is the language.

“Even though I’ve been speaking to him in English since he was born, he just doesn’t hear it enough,” she says. “His English is quite limited.”

Shauente’s Korean is lacking. For now she feels her and her son have acquired their own

Shauente Waters, an English teacher from the US language that allows them to communicate, yet she is keen for it to develop into something more meaningful. “I am eager to have deeper conversations with him, especially at 3 years old and 4 years old kids start saying funny things and I don’t want to miss out on it.”

While differences are often highlighted, raising a multicultural family can bring with it new shared experiences. Michael Cardoza, an English textbook writer from LA, has a 3-monthold daughter with his Korean wife, Kim Hyunsoo. Since they married in 2013, both Michael and Hyun-soo have embraced each other’s traditions celebrating their daughters 100 days and having a western-style Christmas.

“Anybody who is married to someone who is not of your culture, just like anybody in another culture, you’re marrying into the culture just not into the person,” Michael says.

For him, this includes learning the language.

Even though he is working at improving his self-described “conversational” Korean, family gatherings can sometimes make for an uncomfortable situation.

“It’s frustrating when my wife’s father tries to say something to me and I don’t get it,” he says. “These people are my family and I want to be able to express myself to them and I want them to be able to freely express themselves to me.”

These frustrating situations are something that Michael tries to work through. As the couple plan on moving to the US in five years, he feels that he shouldn’t complain as his wife will likely go through a similar experience — a daunting prospect for Hyun-soo.

“I’m a little worried because I’m used to living with my family here and when we move there, definitely, I’m going to miss my family a lot.”

I N S I G H T Edited by Anita McKay (anita@groovekorea.com)

The decision to leave but the US education system isn’t exactly on the rise,” Michael says. “I’d rather have the more laid back lifestyle along with the opportunity to do more sports and have a backyard (for her) to run around in.”

Korea’s education system is known for its high performance high pressure environment. While Brandan and Sonja are undecided whether they will move to the US or the Netherlands, schooling is a main factor in their decision to go.

“It’s not particularly awful here, it’s not particularly great here. No, I don’t want her to be raised in the education system, but not because of the racism or whatever, it’s because the education system is an awful meat grinder,” Brandan says.

Shauente and DB share this sentiment about

the schooling system, but the main reason driving them to leave is what Shauente sees as the lack of acknowledgement surrounding the changing identity of what makes a person Korean — something she wants her children to be aware and proud of.

“I think kids who come from two cultures kind of always have to face these identity questions — ‘Who am I?’ Which side do I relate to more? Identify with more? I hope that we can give them equal parts with both.”

Special thanks to Blair Kitchener for facilitating the interviews. These photographs are part of his documentary-style project on the neighborhood and residents of Haebangchon in Seoul.

To view more of his work, visit www.blairkitchener.com.

August 2015 www.groovekorea.com 33

Moving thousands of miles away to raise your family in your spouse’s country is not an easy decision to make. As well as being separated from family, both traditions and heritage can become lost in the dominant culture of the new home country — something that Hyunsoo is preparing for.

“I’m going to try to let my children know the Korean traditions, like the Seollal meals,” she said.

“I don’t want them to forget anything about Korea so I will try to teach them as much as I can.”

One of the reasons Michael and Hyun-soo plan on leaving Korea is to be closer to Michael’s family, but there are other concerns pushing them to leave. “I don’t want the hagwon pressure kind of thing that you see here,

34 www.groovekorea.com August 2015

Edited by Anita McKay (anita@groovekorea.com)

I N S I G H T

th

The 70

Anni Koreaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Indep from Japan Story by Walter Stucke / Illustration by Craig stuart

August 2015 www.groovekorea.com 35

was scheduled for March 3, 1919. Secondly, the Japanese police had always closely watched the Korean people in order to prevent any sort of public protests or demonstrations against Japan. With Gojong’s upcoming funeral, the Japanese authorities would not think it strange that thousands upon thousands of Koreans descended upon Seoul assuming they were coming for their king’s funeral. The 33 signees of the Declaration knew that March 1 would be the perfect time to begin the nationwide demonstrations.

Beginning on March 1, 1919 and lasting for approximately a year, the Korean people held thousands of public demonstrations involving millions of participants. The Declaration of Independence was read by one of the signees at the Taehwagwan restaurant in Seoul on March 1 spurring the demonstrations. Koreans of all ages and statuses lined the streets waving Korean flags while shouting, “Long live Korean independence!” The Japanese police responded by arresting nearly 47,000 protesters, killing over 7,000, and wounding nearly 16,000. Additionally, many homes and other buildings were set on fire.

After the March First Movement died down, the new Governor-General of Korea, Saito Makoto, made outward changes to the governmental policies toward Korea. One author described this new leadership as an iron fist in a velvet glove. In reality, Japanese governmental policy became harsher, prompting more resistance from organizations on both sides of the political spectrum. Japan continued to plunder Korea for the benefit of the Japanese living there and for the Japanese mainland in general. The number of Korean-owned businesses declined and Korean salaries also fell far below those of the Japanese. The percentage of Japanese children enrolled in school far outpaced that of Koreans.

It was during the period where Japan pursued rapid militarization in order to prepare for war that Koreans suffered the worst oppression. By the early 1940s, Japan strove to eliminate all Korean identity. All forms of literature, religion and education that so much as hinted at Korean identification were suppressed in a fashion far more extreme than after the Korean annexation of 1910. The Japanese authorities also insisted that Koreans take Japanese names and required all people to worship at Shinto shrines regardless of their religious affiliation. Japan conscripted Korean men into their war machine and sexually exploited young Korean women and girls as young as 14, forcing them to work as “comfort women” (more bluntly, sex slaves) for Japanese soldiers.

The brutal Japanese imperialism came to an abrupt end on August 15, 1945 when the Emperor of Japan, Hirohito, unconditionally surrendered to the Allies after the atomic bombs had been dropped on Hiroshima and Nagasaki. Korea achieved its independence on the day that Japan surrendered.

Edited by Anita McKay (anita@groovekorea.com)

A

ugust 15 marks the 70th anniversary of Korea’s independence from Japan.

The country of Korea is thousands of years old, but Koreans hold August 15, 1945 in high regard because it represents the end of Japanese imperialism and the beginning of a better future. Korea has a history that stretches back to before 2000 BC, but the period between 1910-1945 is often remembered as a time of shame and humiliation. Japan’s domination of Korea began before 1910, but the Chosun dynasty (1392-1910) officially ceased with the forced abdication of Emperor Sunjong on August 29, 1910.

After Japan defeated Russia in the Russo-Japanese War (19041905), the takeover of Korea by the victor was able to commence.

Japan formed a protectorate over Korea in 1905, ostensibly for the betterment of the Korean people, claiming that the Koreans desired the Japan-Korea Treaty of 1905, which formally established the protectorate. Of course, nothing could be further from the truth. The situation in Korea went from bad to worse for the conquered nation, with the final act of betrayal coming at the hand of Prime Minister Lee Wan-yong. He signed the Japan-Korea Treaty of 1910, which formally annexed Korea on August 22 of that year at the urging of the Resident-General of Korea Terauchi Masatake (who became Governor-General when Korea was officially annexed). It took effect a week later.

Japan met steady Korean resistance before and after annexation. Thousands of Korean guerrillas, known as the righteous armies, bravely fought the imperialists in spite of overwhelming odds. By 1910, however, the righteous armies had dwindled and were no longer a major threat to Japan. In turn, Japan began to plunder Korean lands, natural resources, and money. Korean businesses began to suffer as Japanese-owned businesses blossomed on the back of aid from the Japanese government. Japan also forced schools to reduce their teaching of Korean history, religion, philosophy, or any other subject that might have stoked the fires of Korean nationalism. The teaching of hangul was discouraged in favor of Japanese writing, with Japanese becoming the official language.

The Korean people showed their solidarity with the March First Movement in 1919. Korean leaders had been engaging in nationalistic activities since the late 19th century. By 1919, the Korean Declaration of Independence had been written and 33 leaders, mostly Christian and Chondogyo (Religion of the Heavenly Way), signed the Declaration. The date of March 1 was selected for two primary reasons. First, Sunjong’s father, King Gojong (who reigned from 1863-1907) died on January 21, 1919 and his funeral

I N S I G H T

iversary of pendence

FOOD & DRINK Edited by Joe McPherson (food@groovekorea.com)

Late ’ s f e h C

Night Eat s

Where do these star chefs and restaurant professionals go?

T

here are two industries that know great places to eat at night, taxis and restaurants. We asked the chefs and managers of popular Seoul restaurants where they go after they are done feeding the city.

I’m going to have to go with Naju Gomtang 나주곰탕

in Hannam-dong near Soonchang Hospital.

Twenty-four hours and best late night kimchi and gomtang combination, in my opinion.

Kenneth Park (Vatos Urban Tacos, Sweet East Cafe)

심양 -양꼬치 Shimyang

36 www.groovekorea.com August 2015

Yanggochi on the Hannam side of Itaewon.

It’s on the way home for me, and the lamb skewers are good. Or if I’m alone… then the ramen joint Menya Sandaime near the fire station.

Linus Kim (Linus’ Bama BBQ)

For my late night snack in a pinch, it would be a double cheeseburger from McDonald’s.

People might wonder why would I eat McDonald’s if I own a burger place.

Simply said I need all kinds of burgers in my life.

McDonald’s is my childhood.

Those tastes have memories.

My second place would be 심양 Shimyang. I love those curry lamb skewers. Super addictive.

James Beckwith (Mi Cook Oppa)

Story by Joe McPherson

Kevin Cyr (Fat Cat Cafe & Diner)

Janey Park (Vatos Urban Tacos)

After hours I’m a sucker for Korean BBQ and soju! Go-to places are called gogijip 고기집, ironically, and are in HBC and behind Itaewon market.

Edited by Joe McPherson (food@groovekorea.com)

Most weekdays, we finish closing at about 11:30 p.m. and on weekends at 12:30 a.m. And more often than not, Vatos staff and I end up craving the ultimate Korean combination: chicken and beer. I have tried so many different kinds of chicken and beer, but now my goto place is a hof in Sinnonhyeon.

It is called Sinsa Hof 신사호프, and the reason I love it is the owner used to work at KFC for 16+ years before he started his company.

And when you order your chicken, you get totally taken care of with nachos and cheese dip, fruit, fish cakes, patbingsu, and then the chicken comes out... yummy, hot, perfectly fried, crispy chicken! I have yet to find a place that I like better than here.

FOOD & DRINK

There’s an old couple that runs a little shop at the top of Fish Alley, near Sultan Kebab, and they serve the best gamjatang with great side dishes. That was my go-to spot during my Chili King days. Not sure if they are still in operation, though.

Paul Jung (Lobster Bar)

12 grow (Wine & Dine). It is a new

Saebyeok Jip in Cheongdam is known for their haejanguk, hangover soup. A rich, spicy, brothy

soup that also works as a pre-emptive strike against hangovers. The secret is in the cake of congealed pig’s blood bobbing about like an iron-rich buoy. It’s a neighborhood institution. The place is enormous.

Even at three or four in the morning, they’ve got a full staff working. Feel like gogi (meat)? Done. Marinated crabs? You got it. Any time of the day.

Matthew Chung (The Beastro)

type of speakeasy in town, very snug and relaxed atmosphere to wine and dine (without whiskey). Getting off work late, and you just don’t want to go near your workplace, where they’re full of ajossis screaming with soju, and maybe your boss drinking at the next table. I go to 12 grow to have my glass of wine at a sensible price, and also the menu is packed with flavor. Gambas al ahio, pasta, jjamppong tteokbokki, anything that goes with wine until 2 a.m. Exactly the ambience that you want to have for night.

Lizzie Kim (Pierre Gagnaire a Seoul)

August 2015 www.groovekorea.com 37

FOOD & DRINK Edited by Joe McPherson (food@groovekorea.com)

Vill a Gue r r ero Authentic Michoacan style tacos Story and photos by Jordan Redmond

S

eoul’s tacos have evolved. On a Moore’s Law-like curve in recent years, we’ve gone from cabbage-crammed, meat-deficient, frisbee-like tortilla “tacos” to previously unimaginable riches of Ko-Mex, Cali-Mex and Mex-Mex variatiowwns. A few years back, this taco progression would’ve been less believable than a sighting of the Virgin de Guadalupe. Now, having materialized just a few months ago, Villa Guerrero is here with “authentic Michoacan style tacos,” which are an actual thing from a southwestern region of Mexico and not just some pretentious foodie fluff.

38 www.groovekorea.com August 2015

Michoacan’s most renowned food export is carnitas, which is pork usually taken from an unctuous cut such as the shoulder and then simmered in lard and spices for several hours until submissively tender. If this sounds tempting, you’re not the only one to think so.

Carnitas is as prominent in Mexican taco carts as it is at Chipotle franchises. Carnitas is not exactly a secret, and a few spots around Seoul have been offering up their own versions for quite some time. However, the reason to make the trek to Villa Guerrero is its singular focus on doing carnitas with the utmost hombrage.

The carnitas here, available in taco or quesadilla form, is absolutely fantastic and more revelatory than a DMT trip. You can order simply carnitas, nude and obscenely tender, which is the best way to truly get to meet your meat. Otherwise, go all-in with the mixture of

carnitas, tripas and creamy, velvety pork skin, all of which are chopped by the owner’s signature cleaver on an honest-to-God Mexican wooden chopping block, known as a tronco.

The tree trunk tronco is totemic in stature, front and center on the counter, with pig parts ceremonially given as an offering, and then a thick layer of salt applied to the wood as a cleansing agent. The placement of the tronco is a clever touch from the proprietor and says a great deal about the Villa Guerrero’s forthright ethos, which is especially refreshing in the faces of too many restaurants’ willingness to obscure their processes. If you want to get deeper into what makes the jovial owner tick, just ask him. Villa Guerrero is only a two-man operation. He is usually decked out in a camo apron and wielding the aforementioned cleaver, and his love of all things culinary really shines through in just a short chat.

One can choose to top off the carnitas taco with a deluxe scoop of guacamole and fresh cilantro. When fully loaded, the heft of the flour tortilla (necessary for it’s sturdiness) is not unlike a well-fitted firearm. Wash it all down with a Negra Modelo and contemplate aesthetics versus functionality or just stare blankly at your greasy, greasy fingers.

Almost apologetically, there is a mushroom quesadilla which is stuffed with baby king oyster mushrooms and dense and chewy white cheese. It’s fine but is seemingly just there to

placate people who don’t or can’t eat pork. In the autumn, the restaurant plans to add chorizo to the menu, and on evidence of the single-minded determination to do such brazenly sumptuous carnitas, the sausage will no doubt be just as properly done.

Tacos and quesadillas are 4-8,000 won.

Guacamole is 1,000 won extra. Cerveza (Negra Modelo and Corona) runs at 6,000 won. Open for lunch (12-2pm) and dinner (6-10pm) Monday-Friday only. Be wary. They run out of food often.

MORE INFO 118-21, Samseong-dong, Gangnam-gu Just a skip from COEX and the new Line 9 Samseongjungang Station, exit 7 02-538-8915

Ambience Food Service Value Score

Nostalgia-relief

M a dd u x Pi z za Story by Tom Birner / Photos by Steve Sherk

FOOD & DRINK Edited by Joe McPherson (food@groovekorea.com)

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It’s a small piece of real estate, with only a handful of tables and a counter with barstools overlooking the street. Go elsewhere if you want to discuss the bank you just robbed. An entire pie will set you back 30,000 to 49,000 won. To get there, go right out of Wolfhound and take the next left. You’ll see Maddux on your right on the second floor. Delivery from Bird Riders is also available.

MORE INFO 2fl. 129- 9 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu 02-792-2420

Ambience Food Service Value Score

August 2015 www.groovekorea.com 39

ucked back near the Wolfhound Pub, Maddux Pizza offers the weary expat a different, regionally specific brand of nostalgia-relief. Maddux specializes in hulking slices and pies of New York-style pizza; from the flavor and texture of the food to the unadorned, ramshackle cinder walls, it’s a successful replica of New York’s signature pizzerias.

On this blessedly cool night, a guest, my neighbor, accompanies me to Maddux. The slices, which range from 4,200 won for cheese to 6,700 won for spinach and artichoke or margherita, are narrow but outlandishly long and firm enough to double as a weapon. The cheese slice is more filling and more heavily toasted than your average NYC slice, but it’s certainly closer to New York style than anything else I’ve had in Seoul, or even Itaewon alone.

The pepperoni slice features so much smoky meat that it nearly conceals the cheese beneath it. Pools of grease tremble with reflected light, and my guest questions my manhood as I sop them up with a napkin. The cheese slice is good, the pepperoni is better, but the spinach-artichoke option, which is glutted with nearly an inch of white cheese, is much too rich, and good for only a bite or two before I can all but feel a tangle of white cheese knotting my stomach and squeezing my arteries.

The highlight for us both is the margherita slice, much lighter than the spinach-artichoke and with basil, tomatoes, and mozzarella that meld smoothly. Beer options include variations of canned Caldera out of Oregon (USA), and plastic cups of Miller: 16 ounces for 5,500 won or 12 ounces for 4,500 won. Non-beer options include... I don’t know.

Story by Charlotte Hammond

40 www.groovekorea.com August 2015

Edited by Joe McPherson (food@groovekorea.com)

FOOD & DRINK

The Food Scene in Seoul is Rapidly Changing The Way We Write About it Needs To, Too

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ne strange side effect of adopting an expat life is how it can bring out a stubborn streak of nationalism that was either latent or non-existent beforehand. In Korea, I’ve noticed how I, along with my fellow expats, tend to most openly unleash nationalistic whining when it comes to food. Rice and potato burritos. Crab stick cream spaghetti.

The local grocery store’s “foreign food” section consisting of off-brand peanut butter and some canned nacho cheese. The unpleasant surprise of sugary pickles on your BLT. But I’m going to say it here and include myself in addressing my fellow food-writing expats: our penchant for these laments is a habit we need to work on.

The Seoul foodies Facebook groups, started primarily by Groove Food Editor Joe McPherson, have been indispensible resources for me and many other dining-driven explorers — expats and Koreans alike. Seoul is sorely lacking an English-friendly version of Yelp and the food forums are a great pl ace for fresh updates about new places serving burgers, Mexican, pizza, brunch, etc. There’s happily a forum for discussing Korean food, too. However, these groups are also a haven for trolling and, most especially, kvetching.

See enough punchline posts about Korean-run Italian and Mexican joints whose arrows fly far from the sacred target of authenticity, or collective gross-out posts about latest honey-dairy product trotted out onto the shelves of 7/11 and you realize not all of this banter is in the name of good food. A great deal of these posts are really about venting indignant Westerner frustrations. Too often the tone

crosses from observational critiques of Korea’s food scene to unfettered mocking of the Korean palate.

From local publications (like this one) to the forums, to local bloggers and Instagrammers, I voraciously read as much as I can about Seoul’s food scene. It’s a really exciting time for eating in Seoul. In the nearly three years I’ve lived here, the options for foreign food — in restaurants and in stores — have ballooned. It shows through, too, in a great deal of Seoul’s food writing. Expats now have the luxury to cloister themselves in Itaewon and Yeonnamdong, eating the California shrimp tacos and drinking the cocktails and craft beers they already know home. They are able to curate Instagram accounts and blogs with hardly a trace of kimchi.

Too many reviews of new Mexican places begin with a derision of the way eating a burrito in Seoul used to be. There are too many Dear John letters aimed at the bumbling Mr. Pizza.

Altogether, there needs to be a shift away from ranting and rehashing of the way it was when you had to deign to go to the Wolfhound to get a freaking cheeseburger.

Seoul’s culinary scene has changed. It is time for the way we write about it to change, too.

Learning about Korea and its many cultural nuances is and should be one of the greatest joys of living here. What’s more, Korean food is now edging ever closer into the brightest spotlight on the world’s culinary stage. It’s something of a privilege, if you’re a food writer, to be at the true epicenter of that phenomenon. An open-minded attitude toward learning about and occasionally emulating how Koreans eat will enrich your time spent

here, it will enable you to write about Korea better. And, perhaps more importantly, it will yield more writing inclusive to Korean readers.

It’s their demand for gastropubs, tapas restaurants, Neapolitan style pizza, and other gems of the world’s tables that is fueling the fiery growth of international grub in Seoul.

Respect for palate diversity is, of course, a two-way street. A good way to earn respect for various Western cuisines in Korea to start by showing interest and understanding for Korean cuisine — traditional and contemporary, purist and otherwise.

On a June business trip to L.A. with my Korean colleagues, we tried out the Korean fusion restaurant attached to our hotel. “Pot” allegedly held a spot as one of L.A.’s top 100 restaurants in 2015 according to some list. Little on the menu was recognizable as Korean, but with our hipster server’s help we were able to identify and order a rendering of budae jjigae. All four of us recoiled upon the first taste. “This sauce is for tteokbokki,” one coworker said.

She was right. It was terribly sweet. Practically Spaghettio sauce.

My co-workers weren’t angry and didn’t question why the dish had been violated. They laughed, finding it amusing, if regrettable that it had cost them $21.00.

Koh Phi Kolada Story by Philip Abowd / Photos by Steve Sherk

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Edited by Joe McPherson (food@groovekorea.com)

1.5oz Lemongrass Infused Rum 1.25oz Fresh Pineapple 1.25oz House Coconut Syrup .25oz Lime .25oz Ginger Syrup tsp Kaffir Leaf Tincture Orange Zest (for garnish) Mint Sprig (for garnish)

ummer is in full swing, and there’s nothing more satisfying than an ice cold tiki cocktail to help keep the heat at bay. This Thai take on the tiki classic is a far cry from the sickly sweet cruise ship versions most people have grown accustomed to. Lemongrass and kaffir leaf imbue the drink with bright Asian aromatics. Fresh pineapple and housemade coconut syrup add tropical fruity notes without being overly sweet. Some tart lime and spicy ginger bring the whole cocktail into balance in signature southeast Asian fashion. It’s a getaway in a glass. No passport necessary.

Story by Joe McPherson

Restaurant Buzz

Jil’Hal Bros.

124-12 Cheongdam-dong, Gangnam-gu 02-542-1422

The folks from Left Coast Burgers have a new concept, 1981. Described as “Asian comfort food,” the menu includes names such as “OG KFC” and “Woka-flocka-beef.” Finish that with the classic shake-em-up dosirak lunch box. They also imbibe guests with watermelon soju and aspartame-free makgeolli. Give me some greasy sesame chicken, and I’ll never leave.

Legendary Seoul chef Jung Sik Yim has opened Bar Jungsik. He continues his philosophy that class isn’t just about the price tag—a concept that is a phantom in Gangnam. Glass wines come in a wide range of prices. For pub grub, how about some caviar, an order of foie gras and a “Jeju Paella?” Those dishes hit all the high and low price ranges as well.

1981 21 Itaewon-ro 19-gil, Yongsan-gu

Bar Jungsik 83-24 Cheongdam-dong, Gangnam-gu 02-517-4650

August 2015 www.groovekorea.com 41

Old faves start new ventures

Reasonably priced Middle Eastern influenced cuisine can be found at the recently opened Jil’Hal Bros in Cheongdam-dong. They sell chicken and lamb gyros and rice plates for 7,000 won and under. Supposedly they’re inspired by Halal Guys in New York, but they approve. This looks like it may be the new big thing—as in Manimal big.

I spy with my wandering eye

FOOD & DRINK

Story and photos by Natalie Ler-Davies

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y eyes lit up when I saw this on the shelf at my local GS25. Among the thick conventional egg mayo chicken sandwiches, triangle tuna round spam kimbaps and bento boxes I found a ham and egg croissant! Next to it were two other new sandwiches from a new company called Sand Farm. Scrolling down the aisle again, my eyebrows raised itself when I noticed single serving Coconut Water! Oh what joy tickled my heart, this is the stuff that we all know and love and definitely welcome.

This change or new outlook entering into the mono-gastronomical society of Korea is looking brighter and brighter! Oh life here can only get better it seems.

Recipe

Story and photos by Natalie Ler-Davies

Midnight Curry

Warm, salty, soft, gooey and crunchy all in a bowl, ultimate satisfaction for any midnight cravings in less than five minutes!

[What to do]

1.

2.

42 www.groovekorea.com August 2015

3.

Ingredients

1 packet instant noodles (any kind) 2 packets instant curry (liquid form) 1 packet instant sausage 2 soft boiled eggs 1 packet of beer snack, aka salted almonds and anchovies Sesame Oil

Bring two pots of water to a boil.

Place the two packets of instant curry into the first pot, and place the instant noodles in the second pot. Discard the instant flavorings.

Cook the noodles until al dente and turn off the heat. Pour the water out. By this time the curry sauce will also be done.

Turn the fire off, take the packs out and set aside to cool down.

the noodles and curries together 4. Mix gently until well combined. and slice the eggs and sausages, 5. Peel sprinkle some salty peanut and anchovies on the curry noodles and finish with a few rounds of sesame oil.

Story and Photos by Charlotte Hammond

Kimchi

Edited by Joe McPherson (food@groovekorea.com)

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he pumpkin-colored Kimchi Bus has traveled far and wide slinging its distinct brand of Ko Mex tacos, including a long traverse of South America last summer. It has repatriated to Seoul for now, semi-permanently parked at the new Common Ground space nearby Konkuk University Station.

It’s a part of a cluster of food trucks in Common Ground’s courtyard, affording you the casual experience of truck-side dining without the novelty of having to track one down.

Meat-based tacos with pork, beef or chicken are at the core of the Kimchi Bus’ menu, each featuring Korean-style meat prep and seasoning, uniquely dressed inside flour tortillas. Their chicken taco meat has the look and taste of dakgalbi, bedded on iceberg lettuce and taco cheese and smothered in mango salsa. It’s a summery taco, mostly sweet with a touch of peppery heat. Tacos are 2 for 6,000 won, 3 for 8,000 won. Adventurous fusion fans, try out the chapchae quesadilla. Domestic and imported beers (Sam Adams Summer Ale only 6,000 won) are available by the can/bottle.

FOOD & DRINK

Bus MORE INFO Konkuk University Station, exit 6.

Walk straight to the entrance of Common Ground, at left.

010.4807.3519

Lotte’s Chocolate Shrimp WT F and Strawberry Shrimp Snacks Story by Charlotte Ha

mmond

August 2015 www.groovekorea.com 43

avory and sweet as a treat concept has yielded many strokes of brilliance: balsamic strawberries, chocolate pretzels, cheddar cheese pie crusts. Get too lazy or weird with it, and you’ll wind up with Lotte’s Frankenstein edible: the Chocolate Shrimp and Strawberry Shrimp snacks. We are still in the throes of honey butter mania; it’s hard to blame snack makers for trying to churn out the next craze. “These were 1+1 last week,” the man at the 7/11 counter proclaimed. “But not this week.” The puffed snacks are coated with enough super-artificial, er, coating that there’s not really much shrimp flavor detectable. If forced to choose definitely opt for the chocolate.

Story by Simon McEnteggart / Photos courtesy of JIMFF ENTERTAINMENT Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

44 www.groovekorea.com August 2015

Jecheon’s Cultural Summer Affair

Enjoy an international celebration of music, film, and performance

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rom August 13-18, the Jecheon International Film and Music Festival (JIMFF) takes place in Jecheon City, Chungcheongbuk Province.

The festival, now in its 11th year, is unique in the peninsula as it celebrates the collaboration between film and music. The event is dedicated to screening productions that combine both artistic fields over the six-day period. Over 100 films from 25 countries are due to be screened, while 30 performance groups will hit the stage for audiences to enjoy, living up to the JIMFF catchphrase “Cinema on the Lake, Music on the Wind.”

JIMFF 2015 will open with the Korean music documentary Try to Remember by director Kim Dae-hyun.

The film follows singer Lee Nan-young who made her debut during the 1930s and achieved significant popularity across the peninsula alongside her husband and composer Kim Hae-song. Yet when Kim is abducted by North Korea and the country is later gripped by war, Lee sets up the girl group The Kim Sisters, whose fame reaches such heights that they perform in the USA. Every year the festival recognizes the musical talents of an artist operating in the film industry, and the recipient of the 2015 Jecheon Honorary Music Award is music director Lee Byeong-woo. Beginning his career in 1996 with Kill the Love, Lee Byeong-woo has gone on to work on over 30 productions in a wide array of genres, including such critically acclaimed works as the horror classic A Tale of Two Sisters, period dramas Untold Scandal and The King and the Clown, monster movie The Host, crime-thriller Mother, disaster movie Haeundae, and most recently last year’s box office smash Ode to My Father. Due to his musical contribution to Korean cinema, Lee Byeong-woo will also have a hand-printing ceremony in the city center in order to immortalize his achievements.

Jecheon is widely renowned for being a beautifully picturesque region and the live performances that occur during the festivities, chiefly at the Outdoor Stage situated on the stunning Cheongpung Lake, are a particular delight. Live music concerts featuring some of Korea’s top talent have appeared onstage at the venue during the warm summer evenings, with previous years welcoming celebrities in the form of Verbal Jint, Kingston Rudieska, Jay Park, and Dynamic Duo amongst others. For the 2015 edition of JIMFF, organizers have arranged special events for each night of the opening weekend. Friday (August 14) sees an assortment of rock music appear in Starry Night, with performances by Lee Seunghwan, The Solutions and hyukoh. Mellow Night, featuring Jung Yup, Belgian maestro Sioen alongside Ehyun and Julian Quintart from popular TV show Non-Fiction Summit, and Sunwoo Junga, will also present their musical talents. Sunday hosts “Party Night,” featuring lively hiphop and disco sounds from DJ DOC, boy band Norazo, and Sultan of the Disco.

There is further musical choice for attendees however, with a second arena held at the nearby Uirim stage providing entertainment in the form of King of the Blues (Friday), Rock, Tango and Film Music (Saturday), the street musician competition JIMFFesta – The Final (Sunday), and the tribute concert White Butterfly for Korean musician Kim Jung-ho (Monday).

The festival features a number of film programs for audiences including the international competition category World Music Film Today, which boasts seven films and

Thirty performance groups will hit the stage for audiences to enjoy, living up to the JIMFF catchphrase “ Cinema on the Lake, Music on the Wind.”

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Stream, Streaming Persona 10am-6pm / Cost: Free P K M Gallery, 32, Samcheong-ro 7-gil, Jongno-gu, Seoul, 110-230

Music

Tropkillaz @ Waterbomb Dance Music Festival From 12pm / Cost: KRW 55,000 Jamsil Sports Complex Battle Stage, 10 Jamsil-dong, Songpa-gu, Seoul

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AUG

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Music

Bang on the ear #2 57, Lay Bricks, Table People, Baekma From 10pm / Cost: KRW 10,000 Club FF, Mapogu Seogyodong 407-8 https://www.facebook.com/ events/497978980357054/

ENTERTAINMENT

Due to his musical contributions to Korean cinema, Lee Byeongwoo will also have a hand-printing ceremony in the city center in order to immortalize his achievements.

ART

Music

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a 10 million won prize for the winner. Furthermore, Cine Symphony (in which music is a fundamental element of the narrative), Music in Sight (dedicated to music documentary films), Korean Music Film Now (presenting stories from the peninsula), Theme & Variations (this year focusing on ballet), and Family Fest round out the programs to ensure that there is something for everyone at the event.

However, for pure cineastes, Cinema Concert is by far and away the biggest highlight of JIMFF. Every year, organizers select two classic black and white films produced in the pre-sound era to be screened at the Outdoor Stage accompanied by a live orchestra. The event is an absolute must for film fans, as the pleasure of experiencing cinematic works from the early masters in their truest form is a rare treat. Previous installments of JIMFF have featured Buster Keaton classics The Cameraman (1924) and The Navigator (1924), Harold Lloyd comedies The Kid Brother (1927) and Safety Last!

(1923), Ozu’s A Story of Floating Weeds (1934), and Shimizu’s Japanese Girls at the Harbor (1933). This year, American silent film musicians Donald Sosin and Joanna Seaton will provide live music for director Rupert Julian’s 1922 classic The Phantom of the Opera on Friday, and perform alongside director Fred C. Newmeyer’s comedy-drama Grandma’s Boy (1922), starring Harold Lloyd, the next day.

JIMFF is a true celebration of the arts and with its firm focus on music and film, audiences are sure to be entertained by the classics and innovative performances at this week-long festival.

MORE INFO

“Fascinating Everything” After-party with Lewtrakimou, Lee Han Joo, Henry Demos, and Myra Pearson 9:30 until forever / Cost: Free ShimTattooWorld aka Moonshine (above Reggae Chicken) Yongsangu Itaewonro 268-10 https://www.facebook.com/ events/1008472812518444/

ART

Nepal Photo Exhibition (for earthquake survivors) 11am-7pm / Cost: Free Seoul Global Cultural Center 5th floor, M-Plaza Building, 27 Myeong-Dong 8-gil, Jung-gu, Seoul FRI~SUN

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7-9

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Incheon Pentaport Rock Festival All day Cost: KRW 130,000-KRW 220,000 Incheon Songdo Free Economic Zone, Pentaport Park, Songdo, Incheon

Raise A Reader: Literacy for Laos Benefit Concert and Costume Party Yes YES, Magna Fall, Les Sales, and Post Panic, followed by live DJs 9:45 PM - 2 AM / Cost: 10,000 Won advance (jessica.samdong@gmail.com) / 15,000 Won at the door Club Freebird2. Mapogu Seogyodong 408-17 https://www.facebook.com/ events/817455498352695/

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FESTIVAL

MUSIC

WED

MON~Fri

MUSIC

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Magic!

7pm / Cost: KRW 69,000 AX-Korea, Gwangjang-dong, Gwangjin-gu, Seoul, South Korea

August 2015 www.groovekorea.com 45

Jecheon City, Chungcheongbuk Province August 13-18 Opening Ceremony KRW 10,000 General Screening KRW 6,000 / 3D Screening KRW 8,000 won / Midnight Screening KRW 12,000 / One Summer Night (Outdoor Screen and performance) – KRW 20,000 www.jimff.org/en/index Buses to Jecheon City center are available from most bus terminals (prices vary), and takes roughly one hour and thirty minutes from Seoul.

MUSIC

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

Pegurians EP release show featuring Look and Listen, Billy Carter, and Four Brothers From 9pm / Cost: Adv. 15,000 (+ 1 CD) Door 20,000 (+ 1 CD) Ruail Rock. Mapogu Seogyodong 402-3 https://www.facebook.com/ events/1635563666659606/

A look ahead at some of this month’s hot releases from the Korean film industry

Korean Summer

Blockbusters

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1

46 www.groovekorea.com August 2015

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

ENTERTAINMENT

Story by Simon McEnteggart

his August sees the release of three high profile Korean movies from some of the peninsula’s top cinematic talent. So far 2015 has been somewhat disappointing for Korean cinema, with revenue down from previous years and a slew of big Hollywood films vying for attention, but wwthe industry is poised to turn everything around with these three big releases.

1

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Veteran

Release date: August 5 Directed by: Ryoo Seung-wan Starring: Hwang Jung-min, Yoo Ah-in, Oh Dal-su Distributed by: CJ Entertainment

Director Ryoo Seung-wan has crafted a solid reputation for producing high-octane action-thrillers with the likes of The Berlin File and The Unjust, and August sees the adrenaline maestro make his return with Veteran.

The film follows relentless detective Seo Do-cheol who stops at nothing to solve his cases and halt crime in his district. Investigating a particularly high profile crime, Seo discovers that all clues point to the son of an extremely wealthy chaebol (conglomerate) family, yet no matter how hard the detective pursues his adversary, the young millionaire constantly uses his family’s power and influence to evade justice.

Veteran is likely to strike a chord with Korean audiences through the controversial subject matter, as news agencies regularly report instances of chaebol members behaving inappropriately and employing connections to escape punishment.

The action-thriller stars Hwang Jung-min as the tenacious detective.

Hwang saw his profile rise considerably following his performance in last year’s smash hit blockbuster Ode to My Father, and is no stranger to the physicality required for action sequences having displayed his prowess on several occasions, notably in gangster epic New World.

Yoo Ah-in takes the role of the corrupt chaebol heir, whose pretty boy appearance and bad boy image from prior films such as Punch and TV dramas will undoubtedly add to his appeal.

Did you know? It has been reported that in the finale around 100 extras were used in a battle royale of epic proportions between the rival factions, and with the experienced hands of director Ryoo helming the action, Veteran looks like a film not to be missed.

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THU~Tue

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Memories of the Sword

Release date: August 13 Directed by: Park Heung-sik Starring: Lee Byung-hun, Jeon Do-yeon, Kim Go-eun Distributed by: Lotte Entertainment

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Music

Pharrell Williams 8pm / Cost: KRW 99,000 – KRW132,000 Olympic Park Gymnastics Gymnasium, 424 Olympic-ro, Songpa-gu, Seoul SAT

Release date: August 20 Directed by: Baek Jong-yeo Starring: Han Hyo-joo, Cheon Woo-hee, Yoo Yeon-seok, Ko

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Alleycon from 9am / Cost: KRW 20,000- KRW 35,000 Gwangju Design Center, 1110-7 Oryong-dong, Buk-gu, Gwangju www.alleycon.com

ART

Jeremie Baldocchi (Korean/French Festival of Art) 10am-7pm / Cost: Free Namseoul University art Center Gallery Iang 8 Hyehwadong, Jongnogu, Seoul

Did you know? The Beauty Inside has already been sold to numerous international territories, which bodes well for the quirky romantic comedy.

It looks to be one of the few non-action orientated tentpoles available this summer.

WED~THU

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19-20 WED~TUE

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19-25

MUSIC

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Table People 10pm / Cost: Free Kimchi Sounds in Kyungridan

MUSIC

PSCORE Charity show with Magna Fall + more Cost: KRW 10,000 Thunderhorse. Noksapyeong 220 MON~SUN

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FILM

EBS International Documentary Festival (EIDF) Screenings all day Cost: Prices vary dependent on venue.

Select venues around Seoul.

Check www.eidf.org/en for details

MUSIC

Baekma’s second album release party with Nice legs and Silica Gel 10pm / Cost: KRW 10,000 Club DGBD. Mapo-gu Jandari-ro 23 https://www.facebook.com/ events/1625327754376356/

MUSIC

The New Generation of Ska festival featuring The Toasters, Beat Bahnhof, Skasucks, Burning Hepburn, Perugians, Johnstocktone + more!

From 2pm / Cost: KRW 30,000 in advance or KRW 40,000 at the door Club Emu in Gwanghwamun http://www.ngoskafest.com/ www.facebook.com/tngoska

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29 August 2015 www.groovekorea.com 47

The Beauty Inside is based on the acclaimed 2012 Intel/Toshiba episodic social film of the same name, in which every morning a man named Alex awakes to discover that, while his consciousness remains the same, his body has changed into a completely different person. The film was designed with Facebook in mind so that anyone could potentially be Alex and contribute to his surreal journey.

Director Baek Jong-yeol, in his first time in the director’s chair, has taken the concept and remolded it into a romantic melodrama. In the Korean version, The Beauty Inside follows Woo-jin who suffers from the bizarre ailment, and the woman he has fallen heads over heels for, Lee Soo. Unsurprisingly, Lee Soo has a difficult time understanding Woo-jin’s condition as he sets out each day to prove his love in a different form, with the narrative exploring the perils and pitfalls of love and the importance of appearance in contemporary Korea.

Han Hyo-joo takes the role of love interest and the one constant within the film, Lee Soo, while director Baek has impressively gathered an assortment of over twenty popular Korean stars to appear as a variation of Woo-jin. The list of actors includes stars such as Chun Woo-hee, who stunned audiences in Han Gong-ju, TV drama Answer Me 1994’s Yoo Yeon-seok, Boys over Flowers star Park Shin-hye, and many, many more.

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Table People, Love X Stereo, DTSQ, Post-Panic and Ludistello 8pm -12am / Cost: KRW 15,000 Prism Hall. Mapogu Seogyodong 395-152 https://www.facebook.com/ events/1595164944081083/

Event

Ah-seong, Park Shin-hye, Lee Hyun-woo, Lee Kyeong-yeong, Kim Dae-myung, Do Ji-han, Lee Beom-soo, Park Seo-joon, Kim Sang-ho Distributed by: Next Entertainment World (NEW)

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The Beauty Inside

FRI

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

Did you know? It has been reported that the film completed production quite some time ago yet was put on hiatus due to a blackmail scandal involving star Lee Byung-hun; however, as the case has now been resolved, the swordplay epic will finally hit cinemas in August.

Jecheon International Music & Film Festival (JIMFF) All Day / Cost: Check the website for different screenings Outdoor theater (Cheongpung Lake), megabox Jecheon and Uirimji Jecheon Culture Center Jecheon City, Chungcheonbuk-do

ENTERTAINMENT

Martial arts epic Memories of the Sword is a classic tale of love, betrayal, and revenge set in the Goryeo Dynasty.

Three legendary warriors, Yu-baek, Poong-chun, and Wol-so, work together to instigate an uprising against the corrupt king and to end the fascistic regime of the era. Yet when master swordsman Yu-baek betrays them for power, his misdeeds lead to Poong-chun’s death and a devastated Wol-so flees with her infant daughter Hong-e, vowing to return and exact revenge. Eighteen years later, Yu-baek is now one of the most powerful men in the country while Wol-so - now blind – trains her daughter in the ways of the sword, ready to spill blood in her quest for revenge.

Memories of the Sword features three of Korean cinema’s biggest stars. Lee Byung-hun, fresh from solidifying his reputation in Hollywood with Terminator: Genisys and Red 2, returns to Korean film for the first time since 2012’s Masquerade as the villainous swordsman Yu-baek. Cannes Film Festival favorite and Best Actress winner Jeon Do-yeon (The Shameless, Secret Sunshine) stars as blind betrayed warrior Wol-so, while rising star Kim Go-eun (Coin Locker Girl, A Muse) plays vengeful daughter Hong-e.

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Film

Story by Ethan Waddell photos by Adam Hickey and Vivian Lee

Edited by chance dorland (chancedorland@gmail.com)

ENTERTAINMENT

Juck Juck Grunzie in Europe

The Art of the D I Y T o u r

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uck Juck Grunzie—known in the indie tion of passers-bys.” By the end of the set, the scene for their explosive live shows and band found themselves in front of a soaked orchestral post-rock stylings—recently and sizable crowd of enthusiastic new fans. returned from a DIY tour of Europe, “For the next few days, people were coming up which included performances at to us telling us that we were amazing,” Jee-hye recalls.

Glastonbury and clubs in London and Berlin.

At the Windmill in London, the band could Far from the air-conditioned lounges of Glastonbury’s Pyramid stage (where the Dalai not even finish the title track of their album, Llama would celebrate his birthday with Patti “Psycho” as the accompanying cinematic Smith) Juck Juck stayed in a 5 meter-wide bell movement was cut short by a power failure. tent where they lived off instant noodles and Nonetheless, their performance was still valcorn flakes for 6 days. The band recalls their time in the muddy fields of Glastonbury with nostalgia, stating how they have come to even miss the smell of human excrement and cow manure.

Juck Juck Grunzie took the stage at Glastonbury for the first time in front of a crowd of hundreds of early-arrivals which singer/ keyboardist Ah-reum Lee says, “felt more like thousands”. They made an immediate impression with the opening number, “Methodd”—a sludgy, hard-hitting psychedelic stoner-rock jam—and although the show went off without a hitch, by the second show, the band would discover the true meaning of a DIY rock tour: the art of mastering Murphy’s law.

Guitarist Jee-hye Ham describes the second idated by an impressive sale of merchandise show at Glastonbury as “When we started, and the admiration of grizzled regulars to the there was a big crowd gathered in front. But club. Immediately following the show howevthen it started raining really hard and peo- er, Juck Juck would drive their rented van to ple strayed to the sheltered area at the back.” Heathrow Airport, where they would nearRather than letting the weather ruin the per- ly miss their 5am flight to Germany, and the formance, Ah-reum Lee says, “I played way band would perform an astonishing show to fiercer than I usually do. In the middle of the close out their tour with their most memorable set I screamed, ‘Glastonbury!’ to get the atten- performance to date.

In Berlin, the final show of the tour took place on the hottest day of the year. Ah-reum states how it was 100 degrees outside when Juck Juck took to the stage at an unventilated, stuffy venue named West Germany. Forced by unforeseen delays to blaze through the usual onehour set in a scorching 40 minutes, the band would put on their most energetic show of the tour. Jeehye remembers only that “I could hardly grip the neck of the guitar since there was so much sweat pouring off of me” while bassist Hyo-jeong “Boong” Shim states, “It was so hot that we sort of lost consciousness and just had fun.”

Despite such hardships, Juck Juck Grunzie recall back on their first European tour with a deep sense of gratitude, particularly toward all of the venues and bands, whose hospitality and generosity in providing meals, and equipment was based on a shared understanding of the unpredictability of DIY tours. Drummer Kyung-hyun Lee says, “We must have said thank you 1000 times.”

At the same time, the respect and admiration which the band felt during their tour likely reflects the recognition of European fans and musicians of both the universality of painstakingly crafted rock songs and the singularity of artistic direction.

Having returned to Korea, Juck Juck Grunzie will begin working on their second album soon, which is set to be released by spring 2016. Until then, you can check the band out at their next performance on August 30th at the 10th anniversary of café/cultural complex/live club Mu and on Facebook.com/juckjuckgrunzie

“…people were coming up to us [at Glastonbury] telling us that we were amazing”

48 www.groovekorea.com August 2015

Jeehye

Multi-award winning

50 www.groovekorea.com August 2015

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

ENTERTAINMENT

come to Seoul O lymp ic Par k p r e p a r e s for th e si ng e r’ s Se o u l c o n c e r t Story by Liam Ring / photos courtesy of ACCESS ENT

T

he Olympic Park’s Gymnastic Gymnasium “acting” on the small screen. Taking over from Cee Lo Green will play host to “Renaissance Man” Pharrell as a judge on the seventh season of The Voice, Pharrell also Williams’s particular brand of hip hop and made a cameo appearance in a recent Simpson’s episode R&B this August 14 in association with and recorded a song with Gwen Stefani for the movie PadAccess Entertainment and Audi Korea. The dington.

Now, Pharrell comes to Korea for one night only, before gosinger/songwriter will be making his first ever trip to Korea’s capital, giving fans on the peninsula a ing on to perform dates in Japan and Singapore. Fans can exchance to see an artist who has collected ten Grammys in a pect hits “Marilyn Monroe” and “Come Get it Bae” from his diverse music career spanning from making soundtracks to latest album, in addition to 2013 smashes “Get Lucky” and “Blurred Lines,” as well as previous collaborations and tracks producing albums.

Starting out in production, Pharrell and fellow Neptunes from N.E.R.D. A man this busy doesn’t tour often, so be sure collaborator Chad Hugo worked with the Backstreet Boys, to catch one of the world’s most creative musicians in action.

Britney Spears, and Kelis before striking out in their own group N.E.R.D. (No-one Ever Really Dies) in the early noughties. Branching out to become a performer in his own right, Pharrell combined vocals with piano and percussion and released his debut solo effort In My Mind to wide acclaim and U.S. Billboard success in 2006. Since then, he has continued to work with artists as diverse as Daft Punk, Madonna, and The Hives as well as releasing his own solo material, working with N.E.R.D., and act as a producer in collaborations such as 2013’s “Blurred Lines” with Robin Thicke.

Last year’s second solo album GIRL (with tracks featuring Mylie Cyrus and Alicia Keys) garnered six Grammy nominations and included the global hit “Happy,” which sold an impressive fourteen million copies worldwide to become one of the best selling singles ever. The song’s accompanying video, which included a plethora of celebrity cameos, also gave birth to a whole range of tribute videos (yes, including one based in Seoul) from across the world. The most famous of these, called “Happy in Tehran,” caused controversy in Iran when the director and performers in the video were arrested and given suspended sentences for vulgarity.

More recently, Pharrell has branched out into soundtracks MORE INFO: Pharrell Williams at Audi Live 2015 with his hit “Happy,” which featured on the Despicable Me 2 Pharrell Williams arrives on the Seoul leg of his Dear Girl tour at soundtrack. Although a widely acclaimed hit, it unfortunatethe Olympic Hall in Olympic Park on Saturday, August 14, 2015. ly ended up losing out in the Oscar race for Best Song to “Let Olympic Park Gymnastics Stadium, 424, Olympic-ro , Songpa-gu , Seoul It Go” from the movie Frozen.

Olympic Park Station (Line 5, Exit 3) Additionally, Pharrell has dabbled in other fields of enter02-410-1114 tainment, including fashion design, become a TV judge, and Tickets are available from Interpark www.ticket.interpark.com/global 1544-1555 / 02-3141-3488 KRW 99,000- KRW 132,000

Edited by chance dorland (chancedorland@gmail.com)

ENTERTAINMENT

Toaste rs an d Beat Ban h o f

The T o ast er s: The Story G ro o v e Kor e a ca u g h t u p wi t h T he T o as t er s fo r a c h a t a b ou t t ou r in g , li fe and K o r ean C u i s i ne

N

Story by Dave Hazzan / photos by Jon Dunbar / Band photo courtesy of The Toasters

ew York’s The Toasters debuted in 1981, as one of the original Third Wave ska bands, in a movement that included the Uptones, Operation Ivy, and the Mighty Mighty Bosstones. Songs like “Two Tone Army”, “Don’t Let the Bastards Grind You Down”, and “Weekend in L.A” are still classics of the genre.

Today, guitarist and singer Robert “Bucket” Hingley is the only surviving member of the band’s original line-up. He is thrilled to be bringing the Toasters to Korea for the eleventh annual New Generation of Ska Festival in Seoul. He talked to Groove Korea from Maribor, Slovenia, where the band is touring.

52 www.groovekorea.com August 2015

Groove (GK): Ever been to Korea before? Any plans besides playing the festival?

Hingley (H): The only time I was ever in Korea was to change planes back to the USA from China. I’m very stoked to come and check out the country. I’m a huge fan of the cuisine, and we had a couple of favourite BBQ restaurants back in NYC where there is a massive Korean population. No worries at all other than we won’t have enough time to take a good look around and go “in-country.” We will just have to land for a return visit with more club shows and some time to snoop around.

GK: How did you end up getting involved in the NGO Ska festival? Where will you be before Korea? You may have no idea about this, but I’ll ask anyway: got any opinions about the state of ska in Korea?

H: The New Generation of Ska contact was through our booking agent, however Mike Park (of the Bruce Lee Band and Asian Man Records) had given me the heads-up on the scene there. Some other players in our circle had been over there gigging with other bands.

Korea will be the first show and then after that

J i n s uk of S ka s ucks wi t h J a n g hy up t he i r n e w g ui t a r i s t t a ke n i n J un e a t Ba da bi e

we will go to Japan for some shows. I will be using the Japanese outfit Beat Bahnhof as a backing band. Looking forward to checking out the local bands with whom I am not familiar. I am sure it’s going to be a great time.

GK: How’s the state of ska in the world?

H: Ska music has its ups and downs, and after the great success in the 90’s, it’s natural that the tide should go out some. Having said that, there are signs that the scene is re-creating itself as it always seems to do, and a great part of that is the emergence of hotspots in places like Korea.

GK: What are The Toasters up to these days?

What does the future hold for the band?

H: At the moment lots and lots of touring since the market for recorded music is very weak these days.

GK: What can we expect from a Toasters show in 2015?

H: High energy and a set that will encompass a selection from the whole catalogue, “greatest hits” style.

The New Generation of Ska festival will kick off on Saturday, August 29, at 2pm, at Club Emu in Gwanghwamun. Tickets are KRW 30,000 in advance or KRW 40,000 at the door.

Along with the Toasters, you can see Japanese ska greats Beat Bahnhof, and a host of great Korean bands, including SKASUCKS, Burning Hepburn, Pegurians, and JohnStockTone.

Check out ngoskafest.com/ or Facebook.com/ tngoska for more info. To learn more about the Toasters, hit up Toasters.org or Facebook.com/ toasters.

No music fan will want to miss it.

L a s t y e a r ’s N G O S ka f e s t

Story by L.P. Lee / Photos by Annie Ridd

Hiroshima’s Walking Ghosts

L. P. Lee’s new short story draws attention to Hiroshima’s Korean victims ENTERTAINMENT

L.

Writing in the magical realism genre, Lee explores transformations of the body, the role of the outsider, and exorcisms of the past

MORE INFO You can read L. P. Lee’s short story, Hibakusha, on Eastlit: www.eastlit.com/eastlit-august-2015/eastlit-content-august-2015 For more information about the illustrator, Annie Ridd, go to www.annieridd.co.uk

August 2015 www.groovekorea.com 53

This August marks the 70th anniversary of the bombings of Hiroshima and Nagasaki. Over 100,000 people lost their lives instantly to “Little Boy” and “Fat Man,” as the bombs were affectionately nicknamed by their American harbingers. The gruesome tragedy that unfolded on the ground in Japan is well documented; so too is the decision making that led President Truman to authorize the strikes. But less well known – and all but forgotten – is that the bombing of Japan was also a Korean tragedy.

It has been estimated that anywhere between 14% and 25% of those killed in the Hiroshima and Nagasaki bombings were Korean. Many had been snatched from their homeland against their will, forced to work in the munitions factories fuelling Japan’s war effort. Korea had officially been a Japanese colony since 1910, and forced labor was one of the many colonial injustices that Koreans had to suffer.

Far from home and regarded as sub-human by their colonial masters, the Koreans who did not perish instantly when the bombs struck found themselves without easy access to rudimentary healthcare or the kindness of strangers. Even those that survived the aftermath would find themselves woefully under-supported by the Korean and Japanese governments alike.

To this day, Korean survivors of the bombs fight for their right of recognition and medical support. Many battle chronic ill health, their bodies changed forever by the exposure to radiation. While Japan admirably looks after Japanese bomb victims, supporting them with monthly allowances and medical care, non-Japanese victims are often left out in the cold. The picture in Korea does not get much better: This year saw a court reject the requests of Korean survivors for compensation from the South Korean government.

Korea’s bomb survivors have struggled not only against apparent government negligence but also against the debilitating presumptions of society at large. As survivors of the bomb, they have often faced discrimination in marriage and employment; seen as too risky to bear children and too weak to be of value in the labor market.

In their own homeland, they are overlooked. On the international stage, they are invisible.

When the world thinks of Hiroshima and Nagasaki, Koreans do not figure at all.

How has Korean suffering come to be so peripheral?

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

P. Lee’s new short story pays homage to the Korean victims of Hiroshima, drawing attention to a group that has long been ignored by the arts.

Set on a mysterious island, we follow an academic as she investigates the disappearance of a dancer after the greatest performance of his career. Drawn to stories that his ghost still haunts the island, she journeys deeper and deeper, unravelling some uncomfortable truths along the way.

Writing in the magical realism genre, Lee explores transformations of the body, the role of the outsider, and exorcisms of the past. Here, Lee introduces the plight of the Korean bomb victims.

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

ENTERTAINMENT

Alleycon: A Geek Fest In Gwangju Join the third annual comic-con celebrating all-things geek

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erhaps it’s become a cliché to say that geek is the new chic, but the numbers don’t lie.

The San Diego Comic-Con is one of the largest events in the world, with over 140,000 participants involved in recent years. Comic conventions are popping up all over the world, providing a place for fanboys and fangirls from every corner of the geek universe to come together and express themselves.

Now it’s South Korea’s turn.

In 2013, Alleycon started casting the same kind of magic in the ROK. Starting with just 20 participants, this homegrown Comic-Con now hosts hundreds – and it could soon become thousands – as the nation’s largest geek-culture event, held in the south-western bread-basket city of Gwangju.

Alleycon is described by general manager Jordan Van Hartingsveldt as a kind of geek utopia, a public space for people to feel at ease being themselves – playing, pretending, and plunging into pop-cultural mythos while meeting like-minded people in a friendly setting. He explains, “Alleycon provides a valuable insight into our [geeky] world. What you will find through conversation and observation is that we are a passionate sort who love to engage in lively debate.”

The event is the first one of its kind in Korea where participants from every corner of the country can join together in celebration of the subcultures they love the most. Jordan promises that new participants will discover “a creative, in-

54 www.groovekorea.com August 2015

This homegrown Comic-Con now hosts hundreds – and it could soon become thousands – as the nation’s largest geekculture event, held in the south-western bread-basket city of Gwangju.

sightful, welcoming group. The whole purpose of this event is to see the community thrive and for new friendships to form.

The reason we started Alleycon was to give the geek community an outlet to just be themselves. When you walk through those doors, you are a friend and we will treat you as such.”

Korea’s first Comic-Con started two years ago when a group of friends from Gwangju hosted International Tabletop Day (ITD) at local haunt The First Alleyway. The gastropub remains a haven for people who like craft beer, Western food, and games. In the middle of its spacious, wood-paneled interior lies a wide shelf of board games ranging from Cards Against Humanity to Settlers of Catan. It was the perfect venue for the first event, which attracted 20 people, mostly friends that still contribute to Alleycon today.

Felicia Day and Wil Whaton, geek moguls in their own right, created ITD because they simply wanted to socialize with other board game lovers. Alongside The First Alleyway co-owners Micheal Simning, Tim Whitman, and James Green, artist Jen Lee provided artwork and Brian Burgoyne tweeted about the events in what Tim recalls was “one crazy party… a blast.”

Later that year, the group – now dubbed The Grey Council – decided to run it again. One week after announcing it on Facebook, 50 people had already expressed interest in attending.

A quick name-change later and it was time for the Council to create the first Alleycon, an awesome event that would move beyond simple tabletop gaming.

The Grey Council settled on video game and board game tournaments, some author Q&A sessions, and a cosplay contest to encourage participants to dress up as their favorite characters. The First Alleyway even put together an array of foods and beverages inspired by geek culture.

The event was more successful than anyone imagined. With a 300% jump in attendance, and about 40 others turned away at the door, the Council knew right then that they had already outgrown The First Alleyway. Tim still remembers the chaos

Story by Rob Shelley / Photos by Waygeek Photography

Geek-issue discussion panels allow debate on topics like the Marvel Cinematic Universe, whether Game of Thrones is better than Lord of the Rings, or even which sci-fi space fleet is the greatest ENTERTAINMENT

This year the Alleycon group has prepared for 500 participants; a quantum leap for an event that started with just 20 people. Going forward, the group hopes to make this festival much bigger still, moving to the Gwangju Design Center, with its multiple open-concept floors, to further encourage socialization and camaraderie.

The 2015 convention will host a staggering number of events starting with casual gaming of all kinds to start each day. There will be a café run by Steve Ward, author of The Coffeeist Manifesto, and a “Fallout Restaurant” run by The First Alleyway. Each day will also feature several game tournaments including Halo 3, Super Smash Bros, Mortal Kombat X, Settlers of Catan, and many more. The highlight for many participants will be the cosplay contest and parade on Saturday, which participants can vote on. There will also be screenings for the 48-hour film challenge.

For more hands-on sessions, there are trivia competitions, geek-themed tutorials, and debates running each day. One can learn about things like game theory, cosplay, and making comic strips. Alternatively, geek-issue discussion panels allow debate on topics like the Marvel Cinematic Universe, whether Game of Thrones is better than Lord of the Rings, or even which sci-fi space fleet is the greatest.

The interactive role playing games (P2P RPG) will also provide a great opportunity to meet fellow geeks and encourage greater community through charitable donations to your favorite team.

An all-rounder of an event that helps charities, sees hundreds become part of the community, and encourages pure geekery, Alleycon 2015 will undoubtedly be a highlight for many this year. This unique festival is growing fast and, with more geeks coming out of the closet, there’s no reason not to join in this year’s fun.

August 2015 www.groovekorea.com 55

MORE INFO Check out their website for full event details. Registration is now open and passes cost KRW 20,000 for a one-day pass and KRW 35,000 for a two-day pass. The First Alleyway (5-4, Dong-gu, Gwangju) will be hosting an icebreaker on Friday, September 18 at 6:30pm.

September 19 – September 20, 2015 (starts at 9am) Gwangju Design Center, 1110-7 Oryong-dong, Buk-gu, Gwangju www.alleycon.com www.facebook.com/alleycon info@alleycon.com 1-day pass: KRW 20,000, 2-day pass: KRW 35,000

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

from that night. “The restaurant was full all day and all night. There was disappointment on both sides as regular customers couldn’t get their food fix while gamers and geeks who wanted to be involved in the event couldn’t get in.”

The Grey Council prepared a bigger venue with more festivities for the next event, yet were again caught off-guard by the overwhelming response. After preparing for around 150 participants, 240 attended the 2014 event.

Jordan was very happy, thinking “the response was incredible… While we were certainly ready for a larger number, to see our best estimates surpassed by such a huge margin was a good indication we were doing something right.”

Tim credits Gwangju’s tight-knit community for the huge appeal of such a niche event in the small city. “We seem to have a lot of gaming geek people of all stripes. It is the community that builds the network [that] makes things like this happen.”

The community spirit continues with a number of charities receiving contributions from the annual event. Jordan explains how “a portion of our proceeds are redirected into local charitable causes.” Last year’s Alleycon alone raised about KRW 3,000,000 for charities, including the Michael Simning Ndwara Scholarship Fund, which sends girls in Kenya to school, and the Adopt-a-Child for Christmas program which provides Christmas gifts for underprivileged children and orphans. Alleycon 2015 is no exception with more of the proceeds going to charity.

Story and photos by Luc Tremblay

56 www.groovekorea.com August 2015

G

etting on a bicycle in the city and riding the main paths can mean only one thing for a cyclist: loving every moment. However, it doesn’t need to stop there. As the humidity of the city makes us long once more for the cool mountain landscapes, the flowing waterways, and the rice fields safely stowed away in the memory banks, it’s time to set your trusty steed towards a new path. It’s time to explore some new places with sandy beaches, blue ocean waves, and delicious fresh seafood. That’s right, pack up your beach shorts, towels and sunscreen and head to the east coast of Korea for some beach hopping and cycling in the fresh marine air.

So, where to start? If you live far from the coast, the long cycle there and back – especially if you are an amateur cyclist – may be daunting, so the bus is the best option. Many routes make the east fairly accessible for both person and bike with sizeable luggage compartments available in the undercarriage to store your bike until you reach your final destination. Buses are relatively cheap and comfortable too, so whether you are based in Seoul

or around Gyeonggi-do, the coast is easily accessible. For Seoulites who feel extra motivated and comfortable riding on smaller highways, cycle towards Obin Station via the 4rivers path and then take Road 6 to 44 and 46 to 56 to Sokcho (a trip of around 149 km from Obin Station).

If you do choose to take a bus, there are many small cities and towns along the route that can provide suitable starting points for the trek. It all depends on whether you want a long ride or a chilled out one where you end up relaxing on a beach. A personal favorite route starts at the Unification Observatory by the DMZ and ends at Imwon at the top of the hill just past the town. The whole section near Imwon is a bit hilly but nothing too steep; however, it may be a good idea to have some fresh legs for this area.

There are little red booths that will pop up from time to time along the route. These booths provide stamps for cycle passport booklets as

part of the river guide cycling paths program.

There are 12 booths altogether covering around 242 kilometers from the first to the last booth.

These booths are a great place to stop and add stamps to your booklet as both proof of your exploits and a memorable keepsake. You can get these booklets online or at K-water offices found at various locations along certain cycle paths. In Seoul, the nearest one is near the Arra Lock near Incheon. On my last visit in June, I didn’t see any signs advertising the booths or informing riders of how close the main paths were at times, so it was a bit confusing; I had to double back a few times just to find these booths. Although not yet completed, the booth system is eventually planned to extend all the way down to Busan which will make the journey an impressive 633 kilometers, but as of May 2015, only a third of the booths were officially open. However, cycling all the way down to Busan from the East coast is still possible via

MORE INFO www.riverguide.go.kr (please note that the East Coast Trail information is only available in Korean) Seoul Cycle is a cycling club inviting you to enjoy the ride. Go to www. seoulcycle.com or www.facebook.com/ seoulcyclepage for more information.

August 2015 www.groovekorea.com 57

7, where some of the sights include a big military boat and sub at Gangneung Unification Park. A great spot for a break, the route continues before meeting more beaches. Next up is the Sun Cruise Resort, a huge ocean liner perched on land on top of a hill in an area called Jeongdongjin. The area also has a beach just before the hill and is a great spot to take a picture of the two boats, which have since been remodeled into a hotel and restaurant.

The east coast path continues through many small beach towns and skims across bigger cities too. These towns are a great place to check out some local markets and also to re-energize by getting a coffee or eating some fresh seafood. Cycling on boardwalks by the beach and also through rice fields near a fighter jet airport are also memorable experiences, made even more so by the sonic booms as the jets pass overhead.

The route still has a few spots under con-

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

bike lanes which follow a secondary roadway.

Riding along the east coast, there are numerous military posts and fenced areas. This stepped-up security is the result of past beach landings by the North. There are many beautiful spots to discover though, and the whole area is extremely safe. However, keep in mind that certain restricted zones and even closed zones are off limits, and although camping is an option in certain places, it is only permitted outside of these areas.

Some notable east coast beaches to check out are – from north to south – Sokcho, Gyeongpo, Mangsang, and Jeongdongjin. For something less touristy, there are plenty of smaller beaches to relax on. Few of the beaches come equipped with shower booths, paid or otherwise, so for those seeking home comforts, the area hosts plenty of cool pensions, hotels, and other places to bunk down at for the night.

Eventually the route will bring riders to Road

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struction, so keep an eye out for uneven surfaces and slow down on the unpaved sections. Most trails are paved and are in good working order, although some areas are not well signed and will make you second guess yourself. If you do take a wrong turn somewhere, just remember to keep the sea to the same side of you and you’ll know you are still going the right way. Most of all, enjoy the peaceful ride and the scenery that the east coast has to offer.

Story by Rob Shelley / Photos by Rob Shelley, Jen Hisko, Jamie Koch, Kookooâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Nest

TRA V E L Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)

MORE INFO info@kookoosnest.com.ph / kookoosnest2@yahoo.co.uk 063-919-695â&#x20AC;&#x201C;8085 www.kookoosnest.com.ph Bungalows range from KRW 25,000-40,000 per night.

Peak season runs from October to May. Most major currencies and Paypal are accepted.

60 www.groovekorea.com August 2015

Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

T R A V E L

Story by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring Photos by Resorts World Sentosa, Singapore Tourism Board

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ingapore celebrates 50 years as an independent state this year with a host of events leading birthday festivities. Taking place throughout the country, the Golden Jubilee is a national celebration, bringing both residents and tourists together to celebrate the transformation of Singapore into one of the leading economic powerhouses in the region.

Now for a short history lesson. Dating as far back as the third century, Singaporeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most renowned period in its history began in 1819 when Englishman Sir Stamford Raffles became the key figure in colonializing the port and the country. It soon grew into an important economic hub for trade between India and China and also became a major trade port within the Southeast Asia region.

World War II brought three years of Japanese occupation in 1945 and a return to British rule. This resulted in more stringent controls and self-government that saw a brief merger with their Malaysian neighbors in 1963, which was soon dissolved. Soon after, the countryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s independence was declared on August 9, 1965.

Singapore is most famed for the Raffles Hotel, which dates back to 1887. With a plethora of restaurants, bars and stores, this amazing structure is a must-see favorite, especially for first-time visitors. The rich and famous have frequently made use of the 103 suites, including the Queen and Elizabeth Taylor. However, a room reservation is not required for the Raffles Long Bar experience, where a Singapore Sling is almost mandatory (although a full drinks menu is available). As tradition has it, a bowl of peanuts will be provided with every order and a side show of customers throwing the open shells on the floor to boot.

Boasting numerous shopping malls, eateries, and a delightful riverside, Clarke Quay can lay claim to being the “in” place to meet in Singapore. Aimed at party goers with its stream of nightclubs, alfresco dining, and general entertainment atmosphere, it’s the place to have a good night out and could be likened to Garousil-gil for a higher end evening experience.

For high flying views of the city, the Singapore flyer is considered to be the world’s largest observation wheel. Located in the Marina Bay area, panoramic views of Singapore can be seen day or night in one of the less built up areas on the south side. There is also a beautiful view of the river, which has many outdoor dining options for before or after the ride.

August 2015 www.groovekorea.com 61

To celebrate its independence, a number of SG50 events are planned for August 9. The National Day Parade takes place at the Padang, which brings visitors back to the original site of Independence Day ceremonies half a century ago. The parade will be a huge affair, with over 200 people appearing from army, air force, police, and navy regiments to commemorate the big day. In addition to the vintage parade, which will showcase the changes in officials’ uniforms over the last 50 years, there will also be a spectacular aerial display, featuring 50 aircraft and breathtaking examples of precision flying and aerial finesse.

Over by Marina Bay, the National Day Parade continues with live screenings of the event in several locations to create spectator sites for the 200,000 visitors expected. Events from the Padang, including the presidential 21-gun salute, will be screened and the bay will also host its own celebratory events at the Esplanade and the Waterfront Promenade.

A huge fireworks display will also light up the night sky on August 7 and 8 with the 2015 theme of Majulah Singapura. The display will complement the end of the integrated parade and aerial show with no less than seven rooftop buildings involved in proceedings. Another display is also planned at Marina Basin for a more intimate fireworks celebration. Additionally, the Gardens by the Bay will present a special SG50 edition of their Garden Rhapsody music and light shows between August 7-10 at 7.45pm, 8.45pm, and 9.30pm.

Singapore displays its multi-cultural nature with a designated Chinatown and Little India. A stoneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s throw away from Clarkeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Quay is the hidden area of Chinatown and a bustling outdoor market full of trinkets, clothing, and food vendors. The centrally located Pagoda Street is also a great starting point for zigzagging the adjacent roads to see the sites in the area, including the oldest temple, Thian Hock Keng, and the Maxwell Road Food center.

Continue east of the river for the colorful surprises of Little India. The first thing to note is the distinct aromas, deepened further by the numerous restaurants lining the streets. Many eateries also sell Indian themed souvenirs, although the area is better known for its food joints.

Make time for a day trip to the island of Sentosa and more specifically, Universal Studios Singapore. Divided into seven different zones, there is a weekend parade and a fireworks show. The amusement park has all the

Universal favorites present, including Madagascar, Lost World, and even Shrekâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Far Far Away with water areas, roller coaster rides, and meet and greet sessions. One for all the family or the big kid in you, the studios also provide plentiful dining and accommodation options.

In the northern parts of Panjang, the Singapore Night Safari is an interesting excursion. The Wildlife Conservation and Research Center also doubles as a zoo, with a nocturnal collection of gazelles, rhinos, and wildebeests. Separate walking trails and tram safari routes are offered to suit all levels of adventure, with the first showing of Creatures of the Night, which gives the audience a taste of things that bump and screech in the night, starting at 7.30pm.

MORE INFO www.yoursingapore.com/en.html 02-734-5570 KRW 10,000 = SGD 11.92

T R A V E L Edited by Naheen Madarbakus-Ring (naheen@groovekorea.com)

August 2015 www.groovekorea.com 63

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Stretching Beyond

Your Yoga Limits Reaching for a new form of fitness

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hen Body & Seoul first opened, yoga classes were considered a must. Having practiced yoga on and off for ten years, I knew quite well the physical demands that positions like Downward Dog, Chaturanga, and Warrior required. I remember the initial mental challenges involved in trying to concentrate on the correct breathing and following instructions when all I could think of was breakfast, the laundry that I needed to do, and that spot on the wall. Why am I so sweaty? Why are they speaking in Sanskrit? The concept of the union of the body and the mind was entirely lost on me.

But having read about the supposed benefits of yoga, and knowing I wasn’t getting any other exercise at the time, I decided to give it a chance. It turned out to be one of the best decisions I’ve ever made. Besides making me stronger, more flexible, and more balanced, it provides relief for my chronic back pain while preventing injuries from all the other training I now do. It also helps to clear my mind and remain equanimous in challenging situations. Where before I got anxious or lost my temper,

now I just breathe through it.

My appreciation for yoga admittedly didn’t happen overnight. It took several DVDs, the patience of various instructors, and a trip to a detox center in Bali (where there was nothing to do EXCEPT yoga) to really cement it for me. When I realized how much I had improved and that this was something I could do for the rest of my life and continue to see improvement, I decided to keep at it.

Now that I’m older and wiser (ha!), I’m realizing more and more the physical and mental benefits of yoga. It truly is the “journey” that you hear many yogis refer to it as. Again, it’s not something a lot of people realize immediately, especially skeptics. As yoga instructor Euny Lee puts it, “Many initially look to yoga for health reasons, fitness and/or stress relief and find that it’s powerfully effective in all areas. Gradually you discover that it unexpectedly metamorphoses into this expansive practice of evolution and transcendence.” If that’s too much yoga-speak for you, she also adds, “And it’s fun!”

As the owner of a studio, I’ve heard (and empathized with) every reason possible for not doing yoga. I see a little bit of the old yoga me in most hesitant newcomers. Some of the most common reasons are:

Besides making me stronger, more flexible, and more balanced, it provides relief for my chronic back pain while preventing injuries from all the other training I now do.

Reason #1 I’m not flexible (or strong, patient, graceful, supple) enough.

This is the perfect candidate! Nobody becomes better at something unless they actually take steps to improve it. Flexibility means stretching the muscles; there is no other way. It’s a common misconception that people who do yoga are born super bendy and can fold themselves into pretzel-like contortions. This is only true for the most advanced yogis.

Many can barely touch their toes when they first start out, but regular classes will bring an improvement. It happens gradually, but it WILL happen. Marsha Taylor, co-owner of the restaurant Bào Stir-fry, who spends a lot of time on her feet in a high-stress environment, noticed a difference in only a couple of months. Citing improvements to her posture and flexibility, she’s also felt mental benefits which have transferred to her work and daily life.

Reason #2 It’s too slow, so I get really bored and my mind wanders.

Paul Thompson, MMA fighter and kickboxing coach

Wherever you decide to begin your yoga journey, we recommend taking some classes with an instructor present so they can correct your posture and alignment. DVDs or online classes may be convenient and cheap, but they cannot replace the personal instruction of a certified teacher. Doing the poses incorrectly not only cancels out the benefits you would receive, but could even cause injury. So be careful, enjoy yourself, and…BREATHE. MORE INFO Body & Seoul offers regular Yoga, Yogilates and Pilates classes in addition to a range of martial arts. www.seoulmartialarts.com seoulmartialarts@gmail.com 02-749-2485 Drishti Yoga (Hongdae) www.yogadrishti.co.kr/about_e.php JAI Yoga www.jaiyoga.co.kr Om Factory www.omfactory.co.kr

August 2015 www.groovekorea.com 65

It’s great for helping me stretch my muscles. I like it because after my MMA training the stretching helps to alleviate the soreness in my body.

Sometimes it’s the people who work out the most that need yoga the most.

Especially if you lift heavy weights or play a sport that can be a bit rough on your body, yoga can reverse, and in some cases, even prevent damage, since flexible bodies and supple muscles are less prone to injury. “There’s nothing like yoga to alleviate back pain for me. It relaxes my back since it’s so tight from training, and I feel like yoga takes the damage of a workout away,” says Michael Ahn, professional MMA fighter and coach. When asked where he thinks his back pain originated from, he adds, “It’s definitely strain-related, from lifting, wrestling, and fighting, and yoga does the exact opposite for it. It stretches and relaxes it.” Yoga is also great for people who use a lot of repetitive motions, such as running. Runners will find relief from lower back pain, knee pain, tight hips and hamstrings, and any number of ailments caused by repeated stress on the body.

Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)

Reason #4 I’m already in shape. I don’t need yoga.

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This is probably the toughest part for most people, especially those who live active, busy lives. Sometimes we rush into a class after traveling halfway across the city on public transportation, usually after a stressful day at work. Understandably it’s hard to slow down our thoughts. We’re either thinking about what happened at work that day, what’s going on in our personal relationships, or what we’re going to do with the rest of the evening. One of the great things about yoga is that it focuses on your breathing, and makes you pay attention to what’s going on with your body at that moment. When you focus on those Reason #3 Yoga is for girls! things rather than the past or future, you become more aware This couldn’t be further from the truth. Did you know that yoga was originally of the present, and time seems to almost stand still. This ability created and practiced by men? History aside, yoga is a great complement to is highly meditative and healing. It helps you let go of tension, weightlifting, sports, and other traditionally “manly” activities. It cuts stubborn stress, and worries. If your mind wanders, just come back to belly fat and creates a base for developing muscles by activating ignored areas of your breathing. With practice, this gets easier. Yoga instructor the body. “Yoga widens your range of motion and increases access to more musDawn Kang puts it this way: “A yoga practice gives us the traincle fibers, allowing for more substantial hypertrophy in any given muscle group,” ing to shift our focus from the chatter in our monkey minds says Kate Abate, a certified trainer and yoga teacher. That basically means that to a deeper awareness of experience which allows us to flow— yoga allows you to have bigger muscles! Even if weightlifting isn’t your thing, that Bruce Lee state of being like water, where the right action yoga is great for providing relief from sore muscles after playing sport and alcomes effortlessly.” Sounds cool, right? Who wouldn’t want to lowing the body to protect itself from future injuries. Paul Thompson, MMA be more like Bruce Lee? fighter and kickboxing coach, swears by it: “It’s great for helping me stretch my muscles. I like it because after my MMA training the stretching helps to alleviate the soreness in my body.”

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Kick, A Punch,

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Whole Lot More.

Fans flock to the Chungju Martial Arts Festival for a week-long series of events.

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Story by Master Guy Edward Larke / Photos courtesy of the World Martial Arts Union

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artial arts are as synonymous with Korea as baseball is with the USA or ice hockey is with Canada. Dating back thousands of years, historians have even found illustrations on cave walls of people performing what look like martial arts. During what many see as the golden age of the fighting arts - Korea’s Three Kingdom Era, consisting of the nations of Silla, Baekje, and Goguryeo - each nation boasted and developed their own indigenous arts and influenced each other through both co-operation and conflict. Developing in societies where their use was a matter of life and death, Korean martial arts eschewed the belt system, testing, and cute animated characters we see today. They developed in the fire of self-preservation and national security.

In addition to the many weapon-based techniques that were developed, a number of unarmed skills evolved as well.

Most disappeared over time or formed the basis of other martial arts. One of the disciplines was called Taekgyeon. Taekgyeon, once a military skill, became Korean’s folk martial art and helped protect the country of Goguryeo 2000 years ago.

It featured unique footwork, body mechanics, sweeps, grappling, and kicks. Such disciplines were almost destroyed by first the Joseon Dynasty and then the Japanese occupation, leaving the Taekgyeon grandmaster Shin Han-seong and his protégé Jeong Kyoung-hwa to preserve and reinvigorate the discipline. The headquarters for this new movement was the historic city of Chungju; exponents of Korea’s martial arts set up the Chungju Martial Arts Festival in 1998 to showcase myriad disciplines to the wider world. From there it blossomed into the World Martial Arts festival in 2002, which sought to bring an international flavor to the event.

The World Martial Arts Union (WoMAU) attracted 30 organizations from 28 countries to the inaugural event. As of 2015, this has increased to 47 member organizations from 39 countries, with eight associate members looking to attain full status in the future. Korean martial arts such as Taekgyeon, Teukgong Musul, and Bon Kuk Kumdo will walk shoulder to

shoulder with a plethora of disciplines, ranging from French Savate kickboxers to Filipino stick fighters, with more Korean and international teams than ever before. It’s fair to say that visitors will be hard-pressed to find Brazilian Capoeira, Malaysian Silat or Chinese Wing Chun anywhere else in the country, and is testament to how much the event has grown in the past twenty years.

In addition, visitors can tour the World Martial Arts Museum, which is the only hall dedicated to international martial arts in Korea. Using 3D technology to add a further dimension to its displays, it contains different exhibits including uniforms, weapons and information related to martial arts from all over the world across its three-storey space. It will be unusual for any visitor to find that their martial art is not featured here.

Running from August 21 to 30, the events are free to spectators, although a small fee will be required for a more interactive experience. New to the program this year includes the intriguingly named “Tricking” martial arts event, as well as a range of contests. There is also an extreme sports set donated by the KBS show KBS Start - Dream Team that people can try for a small fee. Boasting a number of exhibitions and opportunities, this event promises to dwarf other martial arts events in the nation and is a must for anyone interested in dipping into thousands of years of both Korean and international fighting history.

MORE INFO Inter-city buses go from Dong Seoul bus terminal to Chung-ju. From Chung-ju inter-city bus terminal it’s a five to ten minute taxi ride to the World Martial Park.

World Martial Arts Union http://womau.org.

Chungju World Martial Arts Festival http://www.martialarts.or.kr/index_eng.php

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Seoul Gaels GAA training

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Seoul Gaels Men’s and Ladies’ Gaelic Football teams / Hurling and Camogie teams 2pm to 6pm www.facebook.com/seoul.gaels Yongsan Army Base

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Touch rugby games

Korea Touch Rugby Association Check 11am start https://www.facebook.com/koreatouch Jamwon Pitch Apgujeong EVERY MON

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Sides from around Seoul 7.30pm to 10.30pm / www.seouldarts.net Bars around the Itaewon and HBC area (every Monday at Sin Bin Bar)

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Women’s open mat practice 3pm to 5pm / www.seoulmartialarts.com Body and Seoul in Kyungnidan

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The Knight’s Way Martial Arts

Ten teams from around the country All day/ www.facebook.com/koreatouch Haeundae, Busan

World Martial Arts Festival

Exponents from 55 countries exhibiting martial arts from around the world All day / World Martial Park, Chung-ju SUN

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29,30

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Triathletes from around the country (Closing date August 7) From 5.20am onwards / www.triathlon.or.kr Sejong City Lake Park and surrounding roads

Seoul Survivors, Cheongju / Daejeon Knights, Busan Bandits, Geoje Rugby, Jeonnam Aliens, Barbarians, Military side from Yongsan and Pyontaek. https://www.facebook.com/ SeoulSurvivors?fref=ts Daegu

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Mayor’s Cup Olympic Distance Triathlon

Korea Expat Rugby Association (KERA) Round

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Story and photos courtesy of Master Guy Edward Larke

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KUPA presents Pohang Six on the Beach

A HAT tournament where players sign up as individuals and teams are announced on the day of the event.

11am to 4.30pm Bukbu Beach. (영일대해수욕장) A short taxi ride from the KTX station, or bus station.

World Cup Qualifier South Korea vs. Laos T.B.C. / Hwaseong Stadium, Gyeonggi-do Province.

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August 2015 www.groovekorea.com 67

he concept of chivalry and knighthood is not limited to England alone. Several civilizations can boast of noble young men who learned literature, arts, and the disciplines of war, with myriad texts having captured the imaginations of countless young people. One of these people was Guy Edward Larke from Ontario, Canada. He was born in 1970; in many ways the end of the Golden Age of martial arts in North America. His obsession with fantasy literature, feudal history, and martial arts followed him throughout his developing years as he studied Japanese Karate, American Kenpo, and Olympic Taekwondo. Suitably inspired, he decided to relocate to South Korea - the land of the legendary Hwarang warriors - and where Chuck Norris began his studies.

Kisa-Do Muye Won, which Guy has developed and claims will continue evolving, is a synthesis of his experiences in studying with masters in Taekgyeon, Tang Soo Do, Hapkido, Teuk Gong Moo Sool, Bon Kuk Kum, and Wushu. On a practical level it utilizes a wide number of strikes, kicks, traps, and locks. This exposure to multiple disciplines will encourage the practitioner to, without bias, choose what works for them. Every individual is different and every adversary even more so. While universal truths such as anatomy, distancing, and timing exist, there are ten times more variables that cloud what is the truth and what is not. Many systems insist that their ideas are the best, but as Bruce Lee said, “Man, the creative individual, is more important than any style or system.”

His students, Korean or otherwise, are encouraged to not only research the fighting arts, but also the history, sociology, and folk lore of the society from which the fighting art that interests them originates. This develops a richer, much deeper appreciation of each discipline they experience.

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Korea Touch Association monthly tournament

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Story by Luke Butcher at waegukinsports.com / photos courtesy of SK Wyverns

KBO MID-SEASON Report

– More to Come from Seoul’s Teams

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The big four baseball teams in the capital are yet to fire on all cylinders, but expect them to come out swinging in the second half of the season.

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oing into the All-Star weekend, the Korean Baseball Organization (KBO) Tirebank League is certainly not short of talking points. The league is as tight as it’s ever been, and if you are living in Seoul there will be some exciting games coming up - as long as the weather allows it in the typically rainy months ahead. The capital’s four teams have had some wildly different fortunes so far, and for one set of fans in particular, it has been a particularly shocking start. However, the other three are well in the mix for a play-off spot.

SK Wyverns (Currently 6th Place) The furthest out of the four are the SK Wyverns, who play at the wonderfully named and high-tech Happy Dream Stadium (formally known as Munhak) in Incheon. SK was the genuine hipster’s pick at the start of the year; however, the club sits in sixth place, 1.5 wins behind the final wild card spot, and their start has been the definition of average.

Things on the pitching side have generally been very good.

They have technically the lowest earned run average (ERA) in the KBO, but most of this has come from starting ace Kim Kwang-hyun and a strong bullpen featuring Jung Woo-ram, one of the most reliable closers in Korea.

Kim did not escape controversy after he pulled a clever yet sneaky move against the Samsung Lions. After a few fielders came together to catch an infield fly, Kim’s teammate ended up with the ball after it bounced into his glove. However, realizing in a split second that the umpire thought he actually had the ball in hand, Kim tagged the Lions man rushing for home, ending the innings. There was heavy criticism from some fans but ultimately it was not Kim’s job to umpire the game.

The biggest disappointment so far has been the lack of offensive support. Lee Myung-ki has been the only really bright spark in an underperforming line-up with too many players not reaching their peak. To make a run for the play-offs, the bats have got to up their game and start getting on base. There have been a few recent signs of a possible run towards play-off contention with plenty of games still left to play.

Nexen Heroes (Currently 4th place) Last year’s runners-up, the Nexen Heroes, have barely been affected by the loss of big-hitting Kang Jung-ho to the MLB in the off-season. Pushing Samsung for the top team batting stats, Yoo Han-joon has stepped into Kang’s pirates-bound shoes by producing the season of his life from nowhere. Led by Park Byung-ho, who is being watched by just about every MLB scout in Korea, the offense has propelled Nexen to fourth in the standings after a slow beginning.

This season also looks like it will be the last one for Nexen in its current home at Mokdong stadium. The club’s new home next year may well be the Gocheok Dome in the southwest of the city; a sizeable move from its current location. The Seoul Metropolitan Government has virtually pushed through the move, so this season will be your last chance to catch the Heroes playing in the stadium famed for its short fence.

It would be a fitting send off to the old stadium for the Nexen to advance to the Korean Series. If the Heroes can find their pitching rhythm and the bats continue to swing as they are, it would be hard to bet against them making the play-offs and using the disappointment of last year to go all the way.

Doosan Bears (Currently 3rd place)

To put it bluntly for LG, it has been a disastrous first half of 2015. Widely tipped as outsiders for the top five, the Twins only avoid the ignomy of last place by the introduction of the Suwon-based KT Wiz. A few big losing streaks and a misfiring offence have left them wallowing near the basement of the KBO. No one represents the drop in form more than Bong Jung-keun, formally the most reliable closer out there, but now a shadow of his former self.

In the depths though there are some small signs of hope. Henry Sosa has pitched well enough after his move from the Nexen Heroes, and Sin Seung-hyoun has had a strong season in relief. If he had been given a bit more to hold on to, LG would have been in a loftier position.

But all is not lost just yet. Last year everybody wrote off LG after a first half of unrest and equally poor form, but it stormed back to reach fourth and nab the last play-off place. It would take an even more miraculous run this time out, but never rule anything out in the unpredictable world of the KBO.

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MORE INFO SK Wyverns eng.sksports.net/SK_Eng/index.asp Nexen Heroes www.heroes-baseball.co.kr Doosan Bears www.doosanbears.com/english/main.do LG Twins www.lgtwins.com Korean Baseball Organization eng.koreabaseball.com

Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)

LG Twins (Currently 9th place)

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Probably the most wild and dramatic team of the season so far, the Bears are capable of the sublime and the ridiculous. From scores in the teens and perfect games to blowing huge leads and conceding walk-off home runs, the Bears fans have seen it all this year.

Scoring and starting pitchers have certainly not been the problem. They have an impressive team average and continue to have a deep batting line-up that gives fans plenty of hits to cheer.

The addition of Chang Won-jun and the strong start of Olaf lookalike Yoo Hee-kwan has also shut the opposition out more often than not.

However, once again the main weakness has been the bullpen. Looking at the list of relief pitchers at the start of the season, the problem was as predictable as an Oasis song but the Bears have been unable to solve it. Big leads have been thrown away and the tension at games even when the score suggests the team is home and dry is palpable. One thing you know for sure, if you go to watch Doosan you don’t leave early - and expect the unexpected.

Story and photos by Steven Price of kleaguefootball.com

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Up for the K-League Challenge ?

Seoul’s new capital club gear up for a promotion push.

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he K-League second tier is at its halfway stage this month and the capital’s new-boys Seoul E-Land will consider themselves well-positioned for a spot in the top flight next season.

Fan expectation and pundit predictions had varied wildly in pre-season talk, with some expecting the club to stroll to victory whilst others were predicting a struggle. The club themselves seemed philosophical about their chances, with ex-Vancouver Whitecaps boss Martin Rennie apparently given a tangible two-season brief to achieve promotion.

With the club starting their season a week later than the rest due to the odd number of teams in the division, anticipation had built to the point that the first game - a draw at home to FC Anyang in front of a fledgling crowd - felt like an anti-climax. The next few games followed a similar vein as Seoul struggled to find their rhythm, with fans having to wait until their sixth league match before seeing a win. That first victory (a 5-1 hammering of Suwon City) seemed to help calm the team’s nerves and was the catalyst for an incredible run as E-Land shot up the ladder behind eight wins in

nine matches. At that time it looked as if the new club would achieve promotion at the first attempt, but a series of difficult fixtures in recent weeks has led to a run of three defeats in five games, hinting that promotion to the top flight may not be the foregone conclusion that some Jamsil devotees had hoped.

Martin Rennie has done his best to create a fluid attacking side, with its thirty-eight goals scored in nineteen matches the second highest in the league. During their winning run the Jamsil-based side were playing some very attractive football with the star of the season undoubtedly being striker Joo Min-Kyu. Rennie deserves a lot of credit for spotting his potential last season when Joo was a bit-part player at Goyang Hi. Since breaking into the first team, Joo has been on fire, scoring sixteen goals in his first nineteen games.

Goals such as the volley against Gyeongnam (which has been likened to James Rodriguez’s Puskas Award winning volley for Colombia at the last World Cup) have led to national team manager Uli Stielike watching him play, hinting that a call-up to the national side could be in the offing for the prolific striker.

Joo Min-Kyu plays at the tip of an

SPORTS Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)

home defeat earlier in the season were dashed when they conceded two early goals in the trip to Gangwon at the start of July, with Rennie’s charges eventually losing 3-1. The Seoul outfit will get another chance for revenge against Gangwon in mid-August. The recent drop in form may be due to fatigue, and indeed a number of regular starters were rested for the second Gangwon match, so hopefully the short break at the end of July can revitalise the team for a stronger run in the second half of the season.

MORE INFO Seoul Eland play at Jamsil’s Olympic Stadium and host three L-League Challenge matches in August: August 3 vs. FC Anyang; August 22 vs. Gangwon and August 29 vs. Ansan Police. Check the website or Facebook for kick-off times. www.seoulelandfc.com www.facebook.com/SeoulEland

August 2015 www.groovekorea.com 71

Manager Martin Rennie has done his best to create an attacking side, with the thirty-eight goals scored in nineteen matches the second highest in the league.

attacking trio who have all contributed to the goal glut. At the start of the season, fans may have been concerned whether Brazilian Tarabai Santos could make the step up from the Maltese league, but he has shown great form, hitting seven goals so far. On the other side of Joo Min-Kyu is Japanese striker Robert Cullen. Known as “Bobby” to Koreans, Cullen has picked up quite a following among the Japanese fans in Korea. Former Korean international midfielder Kim Jae-Sung has also had a very impressive start to the season and is often the driving force behind many of the team’s attacking moves.

With Seoul E-Land currently positioned in a play-off spot to determine which side will join the league winners in the top flight, there is still everything to play for this season. However, they will need to improve against the better teams in the league if they are to be successful, given that three of its five defeats have been to teams above them. The other two defeats were to Gangwon, which is quickly becoming Seoul’s bogie team. Hopes of avenging their 4-2

SPORTS Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)

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Home While Away A look into the life of a K-League ex-pat fan Story and photos by David Spendley

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ife for a foreigner in South Korea can be very confusing. This fascinating culture, with its different customs, unusual foods and an alphabet which appears more like a random amalgamation of symbols than words, can leave even the most adventurous traveler perplexed. Thank goodness then for the universal language of football. No introduction needed, translator not required.

Although attendances were up by almost 4% last year on the 2013 season, only three K-League sides maintained regular attendances of over 10,000 visitors per game, with two of those teams being capital giants Suwon Bluewings and FC Seoul. If you are an expat looking for a taste of the Beautiful Game in Korea, is it possible to enjoy a league which has a popularity that can best be described as lukewarm? Intent on battling local apathy and often sparsely inhabited World Cup stadia, the answer from many expats is a resounding “Yes!” “Look,” insists London-born Rob Ellis, “I’ve been a season-ticket holder at Arsenal and the enjoyment I’ve had following FC Seoul is equal.

The standard in play might be light-years apart but the entertainment is not. As long as you have 11 committed players on each side, the game will always appeal to me.” Rob touches on something that a number of K-League fans can agree with. Overseas visitors are given the

perfect excuse to travel to cities and increase their appreciation of the nation. “There are some terrific players at FC Seoul and I’ll follow them up and down the country. I always stay

There are some terrific players at FC Seoul and I’ll follow them up and down the country.

I always stay for the weekend when I travel to an away game and I’ve enjoyed mini-breaks in Busan, Daejeon, and even Jeju.

FC Seoul fan Rob Ellis

for the weekend when I travel to an away game and I’ve enjoyed mini-breaks in Busan, Daejeon, and even Jeju. The truth is, I could never afford to follow Arsenal around like this.”

New Yorker and baseball lover Liam Baukham has switched sports and adopted what has historically been the most successful team in the K-League. “I have been following Seongnam FC, who lifted the FA Cup last year, and I watched my team being crowned Asian Champions (in 2010); that’s my highlight. I still love baseball but I’ve never got into the Korean Baseball League. I’m not sure how it happened but out here I am a soccer guy.” Asked about what he enjoys most about the experience, he points to the little differences inside stadiums; squid instead of hot dogs, K-Pop half-time entertainment, and of course the feeling that he hasn’t been financially destroyed by the end of the game.

A season ticket represents incredible value at roughly KRW 100,000 and the majority of K-League teams offer an individual match ticket for around KRW 12,000. Many clubs often lay on a cheap supporters’ bus for the away fixtures to encourage a healthy following who can roar them to victory on their travels. Factor in a few beers and a snack and you are looking at an afternoon’s entertainment for about KRW 30,000.

“My Korean friends think I am crazy,” laughs Canadian Ray Shaw who refuses to commit to a Korean team. “They ask why I would find pleasure following Korean football.” Most Korean soccer fans divide their loyalties between die-hard support for the Taeguk Warriors (the

Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)

August 2015 www.groovekorea.com 73

MORE INFO FC Seoul www.fcseoul.com/en/main/main.jsp Suwon Bluewings www.bluewings.kr Incheon United www.incheonutd.com Seongnam Utd www.seongnamfc.com Seoul Eland FC www.seoulelandfc.com

A season ticket represents incredible value at roughly KRW 100,000 and the majority of K-League teams offer an individual match ticket for around KRW 12,000.

SPORTS

nickname for the national side) and an interest in one of the top teams in a European league. “They love the South Korean national team but apologize for the quality of their domestic game,” he continues. “The funny thing is they have never been to experience one themselves. In my opinion, the standard is high.”

Militantly choreographed banner displays, enthusiastic supporter groups who sing themselves hoarse from the first whistle to the last and, as a consequence of hosting the 2002 World Cup, unusual stadium designs, make games worth attending and with a mixture of all genders and ages in the crowd, everyone is welcome. All that’s left is to find a game.

There are a number of K-League teams in and around the capital region. FC Seoul boast large numbers of foreign supporters who are rewarded with a special foreigner day once a season, offering expatriates cheap tickets, cultural performances, and low priced food. Bitter rivals and 2014 K-League runners-up Suwon Bluewings, who have been threatening to return to their more successful years, have attracted the biggest crowds over the past two seasons at Big Bird stadium where the noise levels are fantastic. Incheon United, containing a team featuring 2002 World Cup veteran Lee Chun-soo, have seen an upturn in attendances this season whilst seven-time league champions Seongnam FC entertain small but vociferous crowds at Tancheon Stadium.

Another interesting proposition is a club in its infancy and lurking a division lower in the K-League Challenge, the newly formed Seoul E-Land FC. Using the historic Olympic Stadium as its home venue and funded by fashion and retail giant E-Land, they are looking to give fans a taste of success under Scottish manager Martin Rennie. Having assembled a mixture of promising youngsters, older pros, and exciting foreign exports, the fledgling club is well-placed to compete in the end of season promotion play-offs in its debut season.

Whichever club you follow and wherever your travels take you while following Korean football, you can be sure it will be an adventurous road of culture, curiosity, and entertainment. For both the committed and casual soccer fan, grab a scarf, buy a ticket, and prepare to feel at home.

Story by Dain Leathem and Liam Ring / photos courtesy of Dain Leathem and Renee Sarah

Touching base

74 www.groovekorea.com August 2015

Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)

SPORTS

with the KTA

The Korea Touch Association offers a physical workout with less of the tackling

F

resh from their third tournament of the season at the end of June, the Korea Touch Association (KTA) is limbering up for the heat of Haeundae in Busan for what the organization promises will be a fantastic weekend for the sport. Last year’s inaugural Busan tournament saw ten teams - including two from Hong Kong - make the trip to the south coast and a similar (if not larger) contingent is expected to hit Busan this time round.

Starting as a training game for rugby union, Touch has in recent years developed into a sport in its own right, with this year’s Touch Grand Final seeing host Australia fend off the New Zealand challenge for honors in eight of the nine categories.

Played by two teams of six players (with six reserves awaiting their place on the field), each side has six “touches” to get the ball over the other’s try line. Unlike rugby, one point is given for a score in men’s and two in the women’s and children’s games. Additionally, tackling involves simply touching the player, who then has to place the ball on the ground and step over it for a team-mate to take on possession – a move reminiscent of rugby league. Eschewing the physicality of the tackle from the union and league codes, Touch’s frenetic pace rewards strong ball handling skills and speed, and is fantastic for building up fitness levels.

Touch in Korea sees men’s, women’s, mixed, and children’s teams involved and competitions often feature teams from Busan, Anseong, Paju, and Seosan, in addition to the Seoul Survivors and Seoul Sister

Rugby clubs. The Busan tournament fees will be KRW 10,000 per person which will guarantee at least four games of Touch at the Busan International Foreign School in Haeundae. Additionally, all participants are invited to an after-party, which has a particularly exciting reputation.

Although a voluntary organization, the KTA is made up of people with a strong passion for the game who run the association’s five tournaments and weekly practices as well as socials. Like any voluntary group, support is vital, and the KTA would like to thank the Hollywood Grill in Itaewon, Hidden Cellar in Noksapyeong, and the Cheeky Kiwi bar in Sinchon for their assistance.

Practice is every Saturday at the Jamwon pitch in Apgujeong, where Touch devotees regularly mix it with players from the Survivors and Sisters clubs. The KTA welcomes any skill level, age or gender to play, with coaching and equipment on offer to assist those who have had no past rugby experience. To check out a practice before the Busan tournament, the KTA’s Facebook page has upto-date information for any changes from the usual 10am start in Jamwon. Great for all fitness levels, a trip down to Jamwon Rugby Field this Saturday could offer a whole lot more than just a work out in the sun.

Eschewing the physicality of the tackle from the union and league codes, touch’s frenetic pace rewards strong ball handling skills and speed, and is fantastic for building up fitness levels.

MORE INFO Contact the KTA at Koreatouch@gmail.com or check out its Facebook page for more details.

Edited by liam ring (liam@groovekorea.com)

August 2015 www.groovekorea.com 75

MORE INFO League matches are played across Seoul on Monday nights over a twenty-week season.

Speak to your friendly darts-obsessed barman, check the SIDL website for team details or contact club secretary Jason Braedon at seoulfootball@gmail.com to get involved.

Seoul International Darts League website: www.seouldarts.net/ Sin Bin Sports Bar: www.facebook.com/sinbin.sportspub

Away from the Monday night action, there are also monthly Saturday tournaments to give players a regular season break. Sin Bin Sports Bar also runs a Friday tournament for anyone thirsting for further action. Having regular events allows the SIDL to keep the sense of community among darts players strong – after all, some arrows fans will end up spending thirty six weeks a year together over spring and fall seasons - and offers regular competition and practice opportunities. If you are competing regularly, you are likely to improve.

It costs KRW 30,000 to register a team – done through the league’s president – and each player pays a game fee of KRW 5,000 to play. All monies go into running the league, the mid and end of season banquets and prize money for tournaments and end of season awards. These banquets also give players the chance to test their skills with players from other divisions, allowing relative rookies the chance to share the board with those who travel to tournaments across Asia (where they often place and sometimes win). It’s a league which thrives off not only competition but also the sense of community formed through their love of the oche, camaraderie and a couple of beers. With new players more than welcome, maybe what you need this fall is a reason to keep you in the pub?

SPORTS

Having started last July 20, a typical Monday night at one of several bars across Itaewon and Haebangcheon will involve everything from triple

twenties and bulls down to an Irish Ton (a score of five off three darts) and lower. Most teams have seven to eight players, of whom a minimum four play in a match on any given Monday, and sides compete in between 19 and 39 rounds on the night depending on their division. Starting at 7.30pm and usually lasting two to three hours, this is an evening spent in the company of both friends and friendly foes.

The season is played over twenty weeks, with fifteen weeks of regular season play followed by play-offs and a grand final. Promotion and relegation is also a factor, with a two up / two down system in place to help ensure that the standard across the divisions is consistent. Many bars have more than one team depending on the number of boards, giving players the chance to register in whichever division they think would suit. A good example of this is the Sin Bin Sports bar – with six boards and an equal number of teams, it has sides spread across the league. Having many teams, says SIDL secretary and Sin Bin owner Jason Braedon, allows up to three of the bar’s sides to play at home every Monday night while others compete elsewhere. All players have to take part in a minimum five weeks of regular season action to participate in the play-offs, with the over 3 million won in prize money given out at the end of season awards. These awards include team and individual presentations, ensuring that whatever level your team is at, there is a chance for group and personal glory.

Story by Liam Ring / Photos courtesy of The Seoul International Darts gue

L

ooking for a way to spend your Monday evenings with great camaraderie and a couple of bevies?

The SIDL has been bringing darts to Seoul since the beginning of the last decade, making it one of the longest standing expatriate leagues in the country.

With four divisions to cater for every level from semi-professional tournament players to those who can just about hit the boards, chances are high that even the most casual player can find a place on one of the almost thirty teams set up around Seoul.

The Seoul International Darts League (SIDL) sets off for another season on the oche

LISTINGS

Edited by Sean Choi (sean@groovekorea.com)

EMBASSIES American Embassy (02) 397-4114 • 188 Sejong-daero, Jongno-gu, Seoul Canadian Embassy (02) 3783-6000 • (613) 996-8885 (Emergency Operations Center) Jeongdonggil (Jeong-dong) 21, Jung-gu, Seoul British Embassy (02) 3210-5500 • Sejong-daero 19-gil 24, Jung-gu, Seoul Australian Embassy (02) 2003-0100 • 19th fl, Kyobo bldg., 1 Jongno 1-ga, Jongno-gu, Seoul Philippine Embassy (02) 796-7387~9 • 5-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

Novotel Ambassador Gangnam (02) 567-1101 • 603 Yeoksam 1-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

Seoul Samsung Hospital 1599-3114 • 50 Irwon-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

Grand Hilton Seoul (02) 3216-5656 • 353 Yeonhui-ro, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul

Asan Medical Center 1688-7575 • 88 Olympic-ro 43-gil, Songpa-gu, Seoul

Somerset Palace Seoul (02) 6730-8888 • 85 Susong-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul

Keimyung University Dongsan Medical Center (053) 250-7167 (7177 / 7187) • 56 Dalseong-ro, Jung-gu, Daegu

Park Hyatt Seoul (02) 2016-1234 • 606 Teheran-ro, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Lotte Hotel Busan (051) 810-1000 • 772 Gaya-daero, Busanjin-gu, Busan Park Hyatt Busan (051) 990-1234 • 51, Marine City 1-ro, Haeundae-gu, Busan 612-824, Korea

Airlines Korean Air 1588-2001 Asiana Airlines 1588-8000

Yongsan Intl. School (02) 797-5104 • San 10-213 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Seoul Intl. School (031) 750-1200 • 388-14 Bokjeong-dong, Sujeong-gu, Seongnam, Gyeonggi-do Branksome Hall Asia (02) 6456-8405 • Daejung-eup, Seogipo-si, Jeju Island Daegu Intl. School (053) 980-2100 • 1555 Bongmu-dong, Dong-gu, Daegu

Dulwich College Seoul

Garuda Indonesia (02) 773-2092 • garuda-indonesia.co.kr

Dulwich College Seoul offers an exemplary British-style international education (including IGCSE and IBDP) for over 600 expatriate students aged 2 to 18 from over 40 different countries.

6 Sinbanpo-ro 15-gil, Seocho-gu, Seoul, Korea. www.dulwich-seoul.kr admissions@dulwich-seoul.kr 02-3015-8500

EMERGENCY MEDICAL CENTERS Jeju Air 1599-1500

French Embassy (02) 3149-4300 • 30 Hap-dong, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul

Gangnam St-Mary’s Hospital 1588-1511 • 222 Banpo-daero, Seocho-gu, Seoul

T’way Air 1688-8686

Yonsei Severance Hospital (Sinchon) (02) 2227-7777 • 50 Yonsei-ro, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul

British Airways (02) 774-5511

Seoul National University Hospital 1339 • 28-2 Yeongeon-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul

Delta Airlines (02) 754-1921

Banyan Tree Club & Spa Seoul (02) 2250-8080 • San 5-5, Jangchung-dong 2-ga Jung-gu, Seoul

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS

Lufthansa (02) 2019-0180

Spanish Embassy (02) 794-3581 • 726-52 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

HOTELS & RESORTS

FAMILY & KIDS

Jin Air 1600-6200

Cathay Pacific Airways (02) 311-2700

Emirates Airlines (02) 2022-8400

D ETUR

PO NS MU

NDO

Eton House Prep (02) 749-8011 • 68-3 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul A unique British-style Prep School for children of all nationalities from 2-13 years of age.

A broad, challenging and innovative curriculum preparing pupils for senior school and life beyond. / www.etonhouseprep.com AMUSEMENT PARKS Everland Resort (031) 320-5000 • 310 Jeondae-ri, Pogok-eup, Cheoin-gu, Yongin-si, Gyeonggi-do Lotte World (02) 411-2000 0 • 240 Olympic-ro, Songpa-gu, Seoul Pororo Park (D-Cube city) 1661-6340 • 360-51 Sindorim-dong, Guro-gu, Seoul Children’s Grand Park (zoo) (02) 450-9311 • 216 Neungdong-ro, Gwangjin-gu, Seoul Seoul Zoo (02) 500-7338 • 159-1 Makgye-dong, Gwacheon-si, Gyeonggi-do BOOKSTORES What the Book?

(02) 797-2342 • 176-2, Itaewon 1-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul • whatthebook.com Located in Itaewon, this English bookstore has new books, used books and children’s books.

Kim & Johnson 1566-0549 • B2 fl-1317-20 Seocho-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul

HEALTH ORIENTAL MEDICINE Lee Moon Won Korean Medicine Clinic (02) 511-1079 • 3rd fl., Lee&You bldg. 69-5 Chungdam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Specializes in hair loss and scalp problems and offers comprehensive treatments and services including aesthetic and hair care products.

Soseng Clinic (02) 2253-8051 • 368-90 Sindang 3-dong, Jung-gu, Seoul Yaksan Obesity Clinic (02) 582-4246 • 1364-7, Seocho 2-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul • www.dryaksan.com FITNESS Exxl Fitness Gangnam Finance Center, 737 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul • www.exxl.co.kr Daily Morning Ashtanga Yoga Mysore Classes (English) Jivamukti, Forrest, Universal Yoga (Korean) Apgujeong Rodeo Stn, Exit 4 (02) 515-6011• www.taoyoga.kr

UROLOGY & OB Tower Urology (02) 2277-6699 • 5th fl. 119 Jongno 3-ga, Jongno-gu, Seoul

Animal hospitals Chunghwa Animal Hospital / Korea Animal Transport (02) 792-7602 • 21-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul / www.cwhospital.com

Hair & Joy Served as Art Director at London’s Renowned RUSH SALON and nominated by the Guardian for “Best Hairdresser”

Woori Pet Hospital (02) 393-6675 • 299-1 Youngcheon-dong, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul

MUSEUM & GALLERIES National Museum of Korea (02) 2077-9000 • 168-6 Yongsandong 6-ga, Yongsan-gu, Seoul The NMK offers educational programs on Korean history and culture in English and Korean.

National Palace Museum of Korea (02) 3701-7500 • 12 Hyoja-ro, Jongno-gu, Seoul This museum has a program called Experiencing Royal Culture designed for English teachers to help learn about Joseon royal culture.

Seodaemun Museum of Natural History (02) 330-8899 • 141-52 Yeonhui-dong, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul Don’t know where to take your kids on weekends? This museum exhibits a snapshot of the world and animals.

National Museum of Contemporary Art, Korea (02) 2188-6000 • 313 Gwangmyeong-ro, Gwacheon-si, Gyeonggi-do Leeum Samsung Museum of Art (02) 2014-6901• 747-18 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul 10:30 a.m.-6 p.m. Closed on Mondays, New Year’s Day, Lunar New Year and Chuseok holidays.

Kumho Museum (02) 720-5114 • 78 Sagan-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul 10 a.m.-6 p.m. Closed on Mondays.

Gallery Hyundai (02) 734-6111~3 • 22 Sagan-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul The first specialized art gallery in Korea and accommodates contemporary art.

10 a.m.-6 p.m. Closed on Mondays, New Year’s Day, Lunar New Year and Chuseok holidays.

Plateau (02) 1577-7595 • 50 Taepyung-ro 2-ga, Jung-gu, Seoul 10 a.m.-6 p. m. Closed on Mondays.

National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art, Seoul (MMCA SEOUL) (02) 3701-9500 • 30 Samcheong-ro, Sogyeok-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul Daegu Art Museum (053) 790-3000 • 374 Samdeok-dong, Suseong-gu, Daegu Art space for local culture presenting Daegu’s contemporary fine arts and internationally renowned artists.

Trained at Toni & Guy and Vidal Sassoon Academy in UK Color, Perm, Magic Straight, Treatment and more English Spoken For more info, call Johnny Phone 02.363.4253 Mobile 010.5586.0243

Hair&Joy

Mapo-gu Dong gyo-dong 168-3_ 3F Seven Uniqlo Springs

HonhIk Univ. Stn. Line2 Exit8

www.hairandjoy.com Gangnam Apgujeong Branch

Qunohair

Phone 02.549.0335 www.qunohair.com 10-6, Dosan-daero 45-gil, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

T-M-A-S Total Martial Arts System SPECIALIZING IN TRAINING MARTIAL ARTS FOR EXPAT Established in 2008, we are the first and only professional martial arts studio tailored toward the foreign adult and child community in Korea.

Over the last 8 years we have trained 2000+ expat students from 32 countries in a traditional Korean syllabus.

Our instructors are highly experienced in teaching both adults and children of all ages and levels, from toddler to professional fighter.

All classes are conducted in English by certified Korean Masters!

Total martial arts system www.t-m-a-s.com 02-796-7976​/ 010-8944-2198 totalmartialartssystem@gmail.com TMAS

Hamilton Hotel

Itaewon Main St. Tom N Toms

Gecko’s

Olive Young

For free trail lesson please contact to totalmartialartssystem @gmail.com or 010-8944-2198

From exit 1 of itaewon Station, go straight towards Nosapyeong for 70 meters, We are on the third floor, directly across the street from Tom n Tom’s Coffee.

Maps AUGUST 2015

Itaewon (including Haebangchon and Gyeongnidan) Garosugil l Gangnam Station l Samcheong-dong Seochon l Hongdae l Myeong-dong l Yeonnam-dong

The establishments on our maps are carefully selected and based solely on recommendations from our editors, foodies and readers. Groove strictly separates these pages from commercial advertisements. These maps are only intended to serve the interests and cravings of our readers

Pick up GROOVE at your local

Lee Moon Won Korean Medicine Clinic 3rd Fl., Lee & You Bldg., 69-5 Cheongdam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul / (02) 511-1079 Treatment for hair loss and scalp problems. One-stop services including aesthetic and hair care products.

Starbucks

Over 570 locations throughout Korea

National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art, Grand Hilton Seoul Seoul branch H Samcheongdong / Gyeongbokgung Bukchon Gwanghwamun (Palace) Square Daehakro (Hyehwa-dong) Somerset Palace Seoul Insadong Sinchon (Yonsei Univ. & H Myeong Ewha Womans Univ.)

H dong Dongdaemun Deoksugung Lotte Hotel Seoul Market Dr.Kim’s Skin Laser Sheraton Grande Hongdae (Hongik Univ.)

(Palace) & Esthetic Clinic H Walkerhill H Banyan Tree Seoul (은피부과) Esarang N Seoul Tower H Grand Hyatt Seoul Today Dental Clinic Itaewon Dental Lee Moon Won Korean Medicine Conrad Seoul H Olympic Park Oracle Clinic Clinic 63 City Building Garosugil National Museum H Lotte World COEX H H of Korea Sheraton Seoul D Cube Park Hyatt Seoul Novotel Ambassador H City Hotel JW Marriott Seoul Gangnam Gangnam Seoul Bright Eye Clinic Gangnam Station Seoul Arts Center

Gyeongbokgung (Palace) Gyeongbokgung was the first royal palace built by the Joseon Dynasty in 1395, three years after the dynasty was founded. Gyeongbokgung served as the main palace of the Joseon Dynasty and represented its sovereignty. It is the largest of the Five Grand Palaces, the others being Gyeonghuigung, Deoksugung, Changgyeonggung and Changdeokgung.

Deoksugung (Palace) The changing of the Royal Guard and the patrol ritual take place here. The palace is unique for its modern seal engraving and a Western-style garden and fountain.

N Seoul Tower Formerly known as Namsan Tower. Its main attractions include multicolored digital art projected onto the tower at night, a digital observatory and a roof terrace.

Cheonggyecheon (stream) An 11-kilometer-long modern stream that runs through downtown Seoul, created as part of an urban renewal project. Cheonggyecheon is a restoration of the stream that existed during the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910).

Myeongdong Cathedral Myeongdong Cathedral is the very first Roman Catholic parish church in Korea. It is also the first Gothic building ever built in Korea and was designated as Historic site No. 285 in Korea.

지도상의 업장들은 Groove Korea의 기자, 음식 전문가, 독자들의 객관적인 의견을 반영하여 세심하게 선별된 곳들입니다. 대부분의 업장들은 Groove Korea가 직접 방문한 후 꼼꼼한 평가를 통해 독자들에게 자신있게 추천하는 소위 ‘HOT’ 한 곳들이며, 해당 지역을 연인, 가족 혹은 친구들과 방문할 때 기분좋은 경험을 하실 수 있도록 제작되었습니다. 지도상의 업장들은 매달 업데이트가 되며, 광고와는 무관합니다.

National Museum of Korea The six-story building of the National Museum of Korea is ranked as the sixth-largest museum in the world.

63 City Building The 63 City skyscraper is a Yeouido landmark commanding spectacular views of the city. Standing 249 meters high and comprising 60 floors and three basement levels, 63 City is one of Korea’s tallest and most recognized buildings.

Dongdaemun Market It is Korea’s largest wholesale and retail shopping district featuring 26 shopping malls, 30,000 speciality shops and 50,000 manufacturers. All kinds of goods can be found here including silk and fabric, clothes, shoes and accessories, electronics, leather goods, sporting goods, office supplies, pet products and toys.

Gwanghwamun Square Gwanghwamun Square is divided into six sections.

At its center stands a statue of King Sejong the Great, the fourth and most respected king of the Joseon Dynasty and creator of Hangeul, the Korean alphabet; and a statue of Admiral Yi Sunshin, a naval commander noted for his victories against the Japanese navy during the Japanese invasions of Korea (1592-1598) and a national hero.

Lotte World Opened in 1989, Lotte World is a major recreation National Museum of Modern and complex in downtown Seoul. It consists of Indoor Contemporary Art, Seoul branch Adventure (the world’s largest indoor theme park), Opened in 2013, the MMCA consists of a small number an outdoor theme park called Magic Island, a luxury of separate national art museums focusing on different hotel, the Korean Folk Museum, shopping malls, aspects of post-19th-century art. The Seoul museum department stores, sports facilities and a movie spotlights “cutting-edge and international art.” theater, all in one place.

Today Dental 3 Fl., 630-19 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul 1899-2854 Dental clinic specialized in cosmetic and general dentistry including dental implant and laminate.

Oracle Clinic (Chungdam branch) 333 Bongeunsa-ro, Gangnam-gu, Seoul 1800-7588 Dermatologic and plastic surgery clinic with the largest number of branches in Korea 70+ overseas and domestic.

Esarang Dental Clinic 26-16 Singongdeok-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul (02) 701-2199 Its internationally trained staff welcomes patients with heartfelt smiles.

Dr.Kim’s Skin Laser & Esthetic Clinic (은피부과) 3 Fl., 85-2 Cheongdam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul (02) 546-3322 Offering a comprehensive dermatological services for all ages and skins Gangnam Seoul Bright Eye Clinic 18 & 19 Fl., Mijin Plaza, 390 Gangnam-daero, Gangnam-gu, Seoul / 1588-3882 Experienced staffs with 10.000+ operations of LASIK & LASEK.

Grand Hyatt Seoul 322 Sowol-ro, Yongsan-gu, Seoul / (02) 797-1234 Grand Hilton Seoul 353 Yeonhee-ro, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul (02) 3216-5656 Conrad Seoul 23-1 Yeouido-dong, Youngdeungpo-gu, Seoul (02) 6137-7000 Park Hyatt Seoul 606 Teheran-ro, Gangnam-gu, Seoul (02) 2016-1234 Sheraton Grande Walkerhill 177 Walkerhill-ro, Gwangjin-gu, Seoul (02) 2022-0000 JW Marriott Seoul 176 Shinbanpo-ro, Seocho-gu, Seoul (02) 6282-6262 Lotte Hotel Seoul 30 Eulji-ro, Jung-gu, Seoul / (02) 771-1000 Somerset Palace Seoul 7 Yulgokro 2-gil, Jongro-gu, Seoul (02) 6730-8888 Novotel Ambassador Gangnam 130 Bongeunsa-ro, Gangnam-gu, Seoul (02) 567-1101 Banyan Tree Club & Spa Seoul San 5-5, Jangchung-dong 2-ga Jung-gu, Seoul (02) 2250-8080

R1 Bao Asian A4 (02) 797-4769 • 658 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

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L1 Magpie Brewing Microbrewery A3 (02) 742-2849 • 691 Itaewon 2-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

Cafe / Bakery / DESSERT Hair salon / spa

R10

Hanjin Villa

RESTAURANT

R3 Buddha’s Belly Thai A4 (02) 793-2173 • 673 Itaewon 2-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

PUB / LOUNGE Shopping

R17 R5

We carry Platinum craft Beer

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L6

C2 The Baker’s Table Bakery Cafe A3 070-7717-3501 • 691 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul R4 Burger Mine Burgers A2 070-8263-2034 • 45-9 Yongsan-dong 2-ga, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

Namsan Daerim Apts.

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L2 Noxa Lounge LOUNGE A4 (02) 790-0776 • 671 Itaewon 2-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul This cozy neighborhood hangout in Itaewon specializes in cocktails and tapas. Check out DOJO, a downstairs bar with huge variety of alcohol on offer.

R5 Casablanca Moroccan A2 (02) 797-8367 • 44-8 Yongsan-dong 2-ga, Yongsan-gu, Seoul R8

R6 Pizzarium Pizza A5 (02) 312-7580 • 529 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

R18

Hanjin Villa

Hansin Apts.

3

C2 L1 R9

R19

L7

C4

Buy the Way cvs

MG Community Credit Cooperatives

Wellbeing Mart Seoul Digitech High School

IBK R22 L9 L11 L10 L2 R1

R8 HBC Gogitjib Korean bbq A2 (02) 796-5528 • 46-5 Yongsandong 2-ga, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

R23

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L6 Bonny’s Pizza & Pub Pub A2 (02) 792 0303 • 44-17 Yongsan-dong 2-ga, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

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L7 Maloney’s Pub & Grill Pub b3 (02) 3785-1675 • 225-67 Itaewon 2-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

R13 R12 R6

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Itaewon Post Office

Pacific Mansion Gold

R9 The Booth Pizza b3 (02) 1544-4723 • 705 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

CU cvs Rose Hill Villa

Itaewon Cheil Church

Itaewon Elementary School

Hyundai Villa

2 Itaewon Villa

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Green Mart

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R19 Kkaolli pochana Thai B3 (070) 8872-1995 • 706 Itaewon 2-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul A hole-in-the-wall Thai restaurant serving real Thai with generous portions at cheap price.

R10 Jacoby’s Burgers Burgers A1 (02) 3785-0433 • 45-6 Yongsan-dong 2-ga, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

R12 Taco Chili Chili Mexican A5 (02) 797-7219 • 527 Itaewon 2-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

R13 Trevia Italian A4 (02) 794-6003• 557 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Their pizzas are Roman-style; the thin, crispy dough comes out of the oven literally smoking hot.

R15 Mi Madre Spanish A4 (02) 790-7875 • 568 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

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L9 Craftworks Taphouse Microbrewery A3 (02) 794-2537 • 238 Noksapyeong-daero, Yongsan-gu, Seoul The first expat-owned microbrewery in Korea still offers some of the best brews around. Try out their seasonal tastes in a warm and inviting ambience.

R17 Kusina Filipino A2 (02) 790-1826 • 44-7 Yongsan-dong 2-ga, Yongsan-gu, Seoul R18 Pizzaria Retro Italian B3 (02) 749-8947 • 712 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul L10 The Springs tap house craft beer A4 (02) 795-7732 • 238 Noksapyeong-daero, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

S1 The Nail Bar NAIL SHOP B4 (02) 794-8549 • Manicure, pedicure, tanning and waxing

L11 Pier 39 bar A4 (02) 749-0339 • 658 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

R23 MEATBALLISM Burger C3 (02) 792-5161 • 225-143 Itaewon 2-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

R22 Don Charly MEXICAN A4 (070) 8154-4475 • 250-12 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Authentic Mexican by Mexican chef

L13 UPPER DECK Sports bar B3 (02) 749-1223 • 305-5 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul. American sports bar & Grill

R24 ROBOT kimbap Kimbap A4 (02) 794-9595 • 563 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

C3 Street Churros Dessert Café A4 (02) 792-1489 • 557 Itaewon 2-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

C4 Once Upon A Milkshake Dessert Café A3 (070) 7435-3513 • 638 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

ITAEWON (GYEOngnidan & HAEbangchon)

The establishments on our maps are carefully selected and based solely on recommendations from our editors, foodies and readers.

Groove strictly separates these pages from commercial advertisements. These maps are only intended to serve the interests and cravings of our readers

B

A

Yongsandong Apts.

L1

D

E

Embassy of The Republic of the Philippines

2 1

3

Hangangjin Stn.

R1

1

C

ITAEWON (GYEOngnidan & HAEbangchon)

Itaewon (OVERVIEW)

The establishments on our maps are carefully selected and based solely on recommendations from our editors, foodies and readers.

Groove strictly separates these pages from commercial advertisements. These maps are only intended to serve the interests and cravings of our readers

H

Grand Hyatt Seoul Hotel

R14

Leeum Museum

C3

2

R15 F4

Itaewon Elementary School

2

L9

ITAEWON (main)

S2

H

1

4

3

No

R23

ksa

pye 3 ong S

R4

tn.

L4

R7

L12

L7

L10

R2 Linus BBQ SANDWICH B3 (02) 790-2920 • 56-20 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Pulled pork sandwich, Brisket sandwich, coleslaw, mac and cheese

R11 On The Border Mexican D3 (02) 792-0682 www.ontheborder.co.kr Authentic Mexican restaurant with homemade dishes and freshest ingredients with 25 margaritas to choose from.

L3 Reilly’s Taphouse bar C3 (02) 792-6590 • 3F. 123-32 Itaewon 1-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Reilly’s Taphouse boasts some 20 draft beers and is committed to carrying the best craft brews from Korea and around the world.

R7 Joongsim Korean B3 (02) 2235-0707 • 34-39 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

RESTAURANT

We carry Platinum craft Beer

R19

R9 Le Saigon Vietnamese B3 (02) 792-0336 • 74-33 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

F1 What The Book English bookstore B3 (02) 797-4342 • 2F. 176-2 Itaewon 1-dong, Yongsan-gu,Seoul Located in Itaewon, this English bookstore has new books, used books and childrens’ books. www.whatthebook.com

Hair salon / spa

Shopping

L1 Craftworks Taphouse Microbrewery A1 (02) 794-2537 • 238 Noksapyeong-daero, Yongsan-gu, Seoul The first expat-owned microbrewery in Korea still offers some of the best brews around. Try out their seasonal tastes in a warm and inviting ambience.

R1 HBC Gogitjib (Haebangchon branch) A1 Korean bbq (02) 796-5528 • 46-5 Yongsandong 2-ga, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

R4 Vatos Urban Tacos Mexican B3 (02) 797-8226 • 181-8 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul A unique ambience makes this upscale restaurant an ideal place to fill your stomach with authentic favorites.

R16

PUB / LOUNGE

L5

R9

R2 C2

Cheil

L3 Hamilton Hotel 2 1 Itaewon Stn. 3 4

F1

L8

Cafe / Bakery / DESSERT

IP Boutique Hotel

R11

H

F3

Hannam Foreigner’s Apts.

Bokwang Elementary School

L5 Wolfhound Irish pub C3 (02) 749-7971 • 128-6 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul L7 Rocky Mountain Tavern bar D3 010-6654-7202 • 736-12 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

C2 The Lab Store by STREET CHURROS CafE A3 • 34-42 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

R15 Nari Jib Korean bbq D2 (02) 793-4860 • 738-24 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Samgyupsal and Cheonggukjang (pork BBQ and soybean paste pot stew) C3 Richesse Velours Cafe D2 (02) 797-8878 • 741-17 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Try its signature dessert menu item, bottled cupcakes.

S2 One Spa Therapy SPA & massage D2 (02) 749-0409 • 3rd fl., 124-7 Itaewon 1-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul, Spa and massage packages starts at 20,000w.

R16 Gida Sushi Japanese D2 (02) 749-3558 • 683-125 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Sushi bar with reasonable prices.

L8 Yuda Japanese bar D2 (02) 388-5081 • 683-126 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul L9 Muntaro Japanese bar D2 (02) 796-7232 • 683-124 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

F3 High Street Market Grocery shop for imported items D3 (02) 2201-0652 • 727-24 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul One-stop shop for imported groceries and coveted deli products.

L10 Bull & Barrel Sports bar B3 (010) 9982-2423 • 44-82, Itaewon 1-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul A new hybrid bar and restaurant with a huge terrace and roof top and a state-of-the-art Dart Bar to throw at.

F4 Beaker Shopping D2 (070) 4118-5216 • 738-36 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Discover a wide array of fashion items by the best international designers including James Perse, Aspesi, Rag&Bone, Vince, Jack Spade and more.

R19 Left Coast Artisan burgers BURGER C3 (02) 6248-2998 • 131-20 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu. Seoul

R14 Pizzeria D’Buzza Italian E1 (02) 794-9474 • 743-33 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul This trendy joint has a full range of Italian fare. Make sure to make a reservation.

R23 Miya Got The Balls Italian A3 (070) 4231-4346 • 549, Itaewon 2-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Korean-American chef from Master Chef Korea serving homemade meatballs, pasta and porchetta.

Place to relax and unwind Oriental massage and Spa packages for couples available

L12 Craftworks Taphouse Microbrewery D3 070-4131-5002• 736-9 Hannam-dong 2nd floor, Yongsan-gu

ONE SPA THERAPY

Foot massage 20,000w Full body massage starts at 30,000w

02-749-0409 (02) 793-2344

This tropical resort-themed lounge is a getaway from bustling city.

Seoul, Yongsan-gu, Itaewon-dong 112-3 Sun-Thu: 4:30 pm – 3 am Fri-Sat: 4:30 pm – 5 am

3rd fl. 124-7 Itaewon 1-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

(3 mins from Itaewon subway stn.)

10am – 5am

ITAEWON (MAIN)

The establishments on our maps are carefully selected and based solely on recommendations from our editors, foodies and readers.

Groove strictly separates these pages from commercial advertisements. These maps are only intended to serve the interests and cravings of our readers

A

B

C

D

E

Cafe / Bakery / DESSERT Hair salon / spa

1

RESTAURANT PUB / LOUNGE Shopping We carry Platinum craft Beer

L6

R9

R7

2

L10 L19 L11

R14

R11

H

R16

D’oro Hotel

L5

R6 L17

R10 L9 L8

R5

R22 R2

H

R13

Hamilton Hotel L1

L16

Shinhan Bank

T-M-A-S

2

1

3

Itaewon Stn.

3

4

R20

Itaewon Fire Station

KB

R17

L13

L18 R21

7-Eleven cvs

IBK

H

ITW Hotel

CU cvs CU cvs

R19

4

R1

R1 Bulldogs HOTDOG D4 (02) 6248-2998 • 131-20 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu. Seoul

R2 HBC Gogitjib (Itaewonbranch) Korean bbq A2 (02) 796-5528 • 118-9 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

L13 Dillinger’s pub B3 (02) 793-7232 • 72-32 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

R19 Marrakech Night Moroccan D4 (02) 795-9441 • 131-3 Itaewon-dong

R10 Maple Tree House Korean bbq C2 (02) 790-7977 • 116-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

L16 Reilly’s Taphouse bar D2 (02) 792-6590 • 3F. 123-32 Itaewon 1-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

R11 Ho Lee Chow Chinese C2 (02) 793-0802 • 119-25 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul L1

L10 All that Jazz Jazz club D2 (02) 795-5701 • 112-4 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

R21 Un Deux Trois French D2 (02) 796-1244 • 123-33 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul An authentic French brasserie where traditions and trends mix, symbolizing a Parisian way of life

R13 My Thai Asian D2 (02) 794-8090 • 123-20 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

L17

R14

L1 Rose & Crown pub A2 (02) 794-2555 • 118-23 Itaewon 1-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Classic British pub specializes in ales and carries 40+ draft and bottled beers R5 Zelen Bulgarian B2 (02) 749-0600 • 116-14 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul R6 Le saint EX French B2 (02) 795-2465 • 119-28 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul L5 Baby Guinness pub B2 (02) 792-2777 • 119-17 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul R7 Pattaya Thai B2 (02) 793-4888 • 116-14 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul L6 Gecko’s Avenue Lounge C2 (02) 790-0540 • 116-6 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

R14 Jonny Dumpling 2 Chinese D2 (02) 790-8839 • 123-5 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

L17 The Glamping Bar&Grill A2 (02) 792-3189 • 171-23 Itaewon-dong L11 Jeon Mandang Korean bar D2 Recreate the feel of outdoor camping (070) 8749-5004 • 118-18 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul and BBQ cuisine in the warm indoors.

L9 Prost pub C2 (02) 796-6854 • 116-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

R18 Don Valley Korean bbq C3 (02) 796-2384 • 127-12 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul R22 Battered Sole Fish & Chips A2 (02) 749-6867• 2 fl., 118-9 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

L8 Glam Lounge C2 (010) 2657-6853 • 116-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul R17 Gecko’s Terrace American C3 (02) 749-9425128-5 • Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul L8

R17

L18 Hollywood Grill Bar&Grill D2 (02) 749-1659 • 123-33 Itaewon 1-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul One of Itaewon’s favorite expat haunts. A real sports bar famed for its burgers and its broad range of pub fare.

L19 The Bungalow Bar D2 (02) 793-2344 • 112-3 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul This tropical resort-themed lounge is a getaway from bustling city.

L19

GArosugil (sinsa-dong)

The establishments on our maps are carefully selected and based solely on recommendations from our editors, foodies and readers.

Groove strictly separates these pages from commercial advertisements. These maps are only intended to serve the interests and cravings of our readers B

A

C

Cafe / Bakery / DESSERT Hair salon / spa

R1 Elbon the table Italian A1 (02) 547-4100 • 530-5 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

L4

RESTAURANT PUB / LOUNGE 1

Shopping

R2 Vatos Urban Tacos Mexican A1 (02) 548-8226 • 532-11 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

CU cvs

We carry Platinum craft Beer R1

Shingu

cvs

C1 La Eskimo Bakery B2 (02) 512-9244 • 546-3 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

Elementary School

7-Eleven

R2

Starbucks

Imagestar

R4 Spain club Spanish A2 (02) 515-1118 • 524-30 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

C11

2

C12 C1

R6 The Original Pancake House Pancake A3 (02) 511-7481 • 523-20 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

C2 R6

C4

R19

Hindol Villa

R7

GS25 cvs

R10 R9 f3

C4 Godiva chocolate B3 (02) 517-3979 • 545-6 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

C8 C9

R11

R9 Sarubia Italian B4 (02) 540-7344 • 542-3 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

f2 f1

R10 Hansung Mungo B4

L5

CU cvs

Japanese Ramyeon (02) 543-7901 • 2F. 542-3 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

L2 7-Eleven cvs

C6

R11 Taco Chili Chili Mexican A4 (02) 545-1705 • 535-9 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

KB

Starbucks R12

5

C2 Ikovox coffee Cafe A3 (02) 545-2010 • 534-10 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul R7 buccella sandwich B3 (02) 517-7339 • 534-22 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

R14

4

C6 Coffee Smith Cafe B5 (02) 3445-3372 • 536-12 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul L2 Wanso Izakaya C4 (02) 3444-2021 • 539-4 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

R4

3

R12 Bibigo Korean B5 (02) 544-7423 • 2F. 537-5 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

IBK

GS25 cvs

R16

sa

Sin

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Stn

H

R15

S-oil gas Station

Youngdong Hotel

R19 Ozit Gastro pub B3 • 544-5 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul New addition to Garosugil serving sandwich, burgers and salads with the finest craft beer.

f1 Massimo Dutti Shopping B4 (02) 545-6172 • 541-7 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul f2 8 seconds Shopping B4 (070) 7090-1144 • 535-12 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul C9 Ben’s Cookies Cookies A4 (02) 514-0051 • 518-10 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul f3 Ralph Lauren POLO Shopping B4 • 535-18 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul R14 March Rabbit Veggie C3 (02) 3444-4514 • 560 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul R15 Yum Thai Thai C5 (02) 594-7988 •5-4 Nonhyun-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul R16 Songok Korean b5 (02) 545-3297 • 2 fl.537-7 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Since 1961, it’s been serving one of Korea’s best UDON, SOBA and DONKATSU. Strongly recommended for casual dining.

C12 Mercy Juice JUICE B2 (02) 547-3595 • 551-11 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Cleanses using 100% supernatural cold-pressed juice

C11 Remicone ICECREAM B2 (02) 6207-1029 • 547-12 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Ice cream haven.

L4 Hanchu PUB B1 (02) 541-0969 • 549-9 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Awarded ‘The best crispy fried chicken in Seoul’ by Chowzter. Get a side of pork stuffed and fried chili peppers.

C8 Tokyo Panya Bakery C4 (02) 547-7790 • 543-8 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

L5 De Chou Lounge C4 (02) 514-2014 • B1 fl. 540-19 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Carries unique Korean traditional soju not found in anywhere else.

Pricey but absolutely worth exploring masterpieces by local brewers.

R1 Dos Tacos Mexican B2

R2 Mano di Chef Italian C2

(02) 561-7111 • B1 825-18 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

R3 O’yull Healthy Fusion B3

(02) 554-0511 • 820-9 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

R4 Seoga & Cook Italian C2

(02) 558-5263 • 618-18 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul All menu items are priced at 18,000won

R5 BOBIRED Korean Fusion C2

(02) 3452-1515 • 618-18 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

R6 Norita Garden Italian B3

(02) 596-5258 • 7F 1317-13 Seocho-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul Cream pasta is recommended.

R7 Steakholic Steakhouse C3

(02) 568-8768 • 817-8 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul All-you-can-eat steak for 28,000won

R8 Doni Burger Burger B3

(02) 534-6282 • 1317-31 Seocho-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul Operated by famous comedian Chung Hyung-don

R9 Primo BacioBaci Italian B3

(02) 501-0885 • 816-3 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul (02) 3453-7697 • B3. 821 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Italian restaurant with a stage for live music and private parties

R11 Bonguhwaro Korean BBQ C2

(02) 558-8452 • 619-14 Yeoksam 1-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

R12 Gatten Sushi sushi C3

(02) 2051-1477 • 822-4 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul A Japanese sushi franchise

R13 Dochi Pizzeria Pizza C2

(02) 556-8001 • 620-17 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Neapolitan pizza made in a forno oven

R14 General Banjum Chinese C2

(02) 553-1920 • 619-5 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Try various kinds of dimsum

(02) 539-6650 • 818-8 Yeoksam 1-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Serving 9 different kinds of Big Rock premium beers from Alberta, Canada

R17 Lawry’s The Prime Rib Steak A4

(02) 590-2800 • 3F. 1317-23 Seocho-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul

B

C Hair salon / spa

L2

Kyobo Tower

R19

1

Hollys

R1

R18 Sushino Baek Chef Sushi C2

(02) 565-0802 • 619-5 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

RESTAURANT PUB / LOUNGE

R20

R19 Genroku Udon

Japanese noodles A1 (02) 3481-8555 • 1302-50 Seocho-dong,Seocho-gu, Seoul All-you-can-eat Japanese noodles

Yeoksam Post Office

R26

CGV

R4

R15

R16

R18

R5

R14 R11

2

R20 Elkin the Black Italian B2

(02) 568-6987 • 813 Yeoksam 1-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Try the lunch special of cream sauce with Boston steak pasta at 25,300won, served for two people.

R27 R13

Giordano R24

Lotte Cinema

R21 Rabat Moroccan B3

(02) 561-3665 • B2. 821-1 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Beef tajine with couscous at 26,500won

R25

3

L3

R8 R3

(02) 599-1140 • 1317-14 Seocho-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul Popular Japanese burger franchise comes to Korea

R22 MegaBox R17

R10 R21

Starbucks

9

(02) 563-7977 • 822-1 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

R24 Chez Jin Italian C2

(02) 566-9079 • 817-35 Yeoksam 1-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Enjoy Italian cuisine with club music

L3 SOS Seafood Pub C3

(02) 508-0458 • 818-11 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Cajun seafood at its finest

R25 Johnny Rockets Burger B3

(02) 2051-1226 • 816-4 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

S1

R12

12 Gangnam Stn.

1

8

4

7

R23

Samsung Digital

6

L2 Kodachaya Bar B2

(02) 3453-6666 • 808-5 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul 7 different tent bars with a unique concept for each. Its motto is ‘be crazy enough to win and too tired to lose’

11

10

S1 Nova Skin Clinic Skin clinic C3

(02) 2055-3610 • B1. 1320-10 Seocho-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul

L1

R6

R22 Mos Burger Burger B3

R23 Ganga Indian A4

R7

R9

Gangnam Stn.

R10 I Have a Dream Italian B3

A

L1 Big Rock Brewery Pub C3

hyeon Stn. Line9. Sinnon

(02) 593-5904 • 1303-35 Seocho-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul Two thumbs up. Fresh ingredients and a reasonable price.

2

3

R15 Big Plato Italian C2

(02) 557-3442 • 619-2 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul A vintage interior and decent prices.

R16 Mies Container Italian C2

(02) 536-5786 • 1316-29 Seocho-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul Salad spaghetti and bulgogi cream cheese pasta are recommended.

R26 Julio Mexican C2

(02) 568-5324 • 619-1 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

R27 Uncle 29 Mexican A2

•1308-16 Seocho-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul

(02) 590-2800

j

3rd floor, GT Tower, 1317-23, Seocho-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul www.lawrys.kr lunch 11:30am-2:30pm Dinner 5:30 pm-9:30pm

GANGNAM STATION

The establishments on our maps are carefully selected and based solely on recommendations from our editors, foodies and readers.

Groove strictly separates these pages from commercial advertisements. These maps are only intended to serve the interests and cravings of our readers

HongDae (HongIK Univ.)

The establishments on our maps are carefully selected and based solely on recommendations from our editors, foodies and readers.

Groove strictly separates these pages from commercial advertisements. These maps are only intended to serve the interests and cravings of our readers

A

B

C

5 Ho ng

4

Cafe / Bakery / DESSERT

ik

Hair salon / spa .

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Stn

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Lotte Cinema S1

n St ik ng 8

RESTAURANT

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Ho

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Ho

PUB / LOUNGE

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Stn

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1

DANCE CLUB

9

We carry Platinum craft Beer

KFC

Coffee Bean R4 R1

Seokyo Elementary School

L2

V-HALL

R17

Seokyo Prugio Apts.

C1

2

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Bobo Hotel

Smoothie King

VELOSO D7

Halla Mansion

D12

R16

Lotte Cinema

9 8

n.

St

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KT&G SangsangMadang

D9 L1

4

R11 R8

7-Eleven cvs

C2 C3

5 Ha

pj

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p

Ha

10

ng

o je

R12

D2

R13

D5

2 1

Wau Park

D6

PRISM HALL

D11

Hongik University

D3

CLUB GOGOS CLUB TA 打 D10 CLUB EVANS CLUB FF R2

Jungang heights Apts.

D1

eo

ng

St 6 n.

7

Freebird2 EVANS LOUNGE

R3

R5

C4

Wau Park

R10 R18 C5

1 Sangsu Stn. 4

2 3

C1 Paul & Paulina Bakery C2 (02) 333-0185 • 344-6 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

C3 Museum café aA Cafe b3 (02) 3143-7312 • 408-11 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

R1 Primo Baciobaci Italian C1 (02) 323-0098 • 346-47 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

C4 Okrumong Cafe b3 (02) 325-4040 • 402-18 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

D1 Club Freebird 2 (Big Bird) Club b3 (02) 335-4576 408-17 Seogyo-dong, mapo-gu, Seoul Club playing live music by local artists and bands facebook.com/clubfreebird2

C2 Peony Cafe b3 (02) 333-5325 • 403-15 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

R10 Pakumori Curry Japanese curry b3 (02) 322-5001 • 411-15 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

D2 Club NB Club / hip-hop C2 • 362-4 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoull

R2 Yoonsi Milbang Korean C3 (02) 3143-4116 • 411-6 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

C5 Kyo bakery Bakery b3 (02) 794-5090 • 317-7 Sangsoo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

D5 Club M2 Club / electronic b2 • 367-11 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

R3 Sunny the Grill Italian b3 (02) 337-8951 • 401-19 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

R11 Hongdae Jopok Dukpoki Korean b3 (02) 337-9933 • 407-21 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

D6 Club Mansion Club / electronic b2 • 368-22 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

R4 La Paella Spanish C1 (02) 322-8870 • 2F. 345-3 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

R12 Aloha Table Hawaiian b2 (02) 324-7718 • 364-14 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

D7 Club Freebird Club / live music b2 • 364-22 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

R5 Hakadabunko Japanese RAMEN c3 (02) 338-5536 • 93-28 Sangsoo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

R13 Agio Italian C2 (02) 322-8133 • 364-6 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

D9 Club DGBD Club / live music b3 • 395-17 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

S1 Hair & Joy Hair Salon C1 (02) 363-4253 • 3F. 168-3 Donggyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

R16 Yeonga Korean BBQ b2 (02) 336-9992 • 366-13 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

D10 Club Gogos Club / rock c3 • 407-8 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

L1 Castle Praha Pub b3 (02) 337-6644 • 395-19 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

R17 Gusto Taco Mexican C2 (02) 3142-8226 • 342-16 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul Mexican traditionalism done right: an efficient balance of flavor and texture.

D11 Club NB2 Club / hip-hop C2 • 361-10 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

R8 No Stress Kitchen Italian b3 (02) 6083-1252 • 404-8 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

L2 Platinum Beer Pub Pub with craft beer C1 (070) 4143-8081• 345-24 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

D12 Club Cocoon Club / hip-hop C2 • 364-26 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

#liveishere Every last Friday on the month!

Get your pass at 20,000 won, Access 10 hottest and funkiest clubs in Hongdae!

E n j o y c o f f ee , e n j o y l if e . o r k , At h o m e , At w O n t h e way Model Quarza B · Italian fashion design · Intelligent one touch control · Full-automatic technology 6 different drinks including fancy coffee and milk with only one touch · Grinding fresh coffee at anytime, anywhere · The most advanced milk foam system

www.kalerm.com Customer service: Bean Choice 1661-3906

Yeonnam-dong

The establishments on our maps are carefully selected and based solely on recommendations from our editors, foodies and readers.

Groove strictly separates these pages from commercial advertisements. These maps are only intended to serve the interests and cravings of our readers

R1 Yeonnam Blues Restaurant/bar B4 (02) 325-1478 • 150-6 Donggyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul Wines, cocktails, beer or even soju well go with its menu items.

Groove recommends Halla tonic (Hallasan soju mixed with tonic) and spicy seafood stew.

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R8 Soiyeonnam 소이연남 THAI C2 (02) 323-5130 • 229-67 Yeonnam-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

Yeonnam-dong Community Service Center

R9 Lie Lie Lie Vietnamese C3 (010) 2880-7973 • 227-5 Yeonnam-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul BANH MI (Vietnamese sandwich)

R8 L1

Green House

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홍어랑탁이랑 R4

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C1 Nakrangparang Cafe C4 (02) 6204-7888 • 148-3 Donggyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul Named after the first café in Korea opened in 1931.

Rest your feet at this retrointerior café with a bowl of mango shaved ice.

12 pm – 10 pm.

Closed on Mondays

C2

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Demyung Vivaldi Park Apts.

Gyeongam little theater Sambuja Squid Bulgogi

Jin House

R1

Yeonnam Police Box

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C1 C4

C5

R10

R2 Tuk Tuk Noodle Thai Thai D3 070-4407-5130 • 227-37 Yeonnam-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul Thai chef and Thai beer served in Thai interiors and music.

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L1 Dan Dan Japanese bar C2 (02) 6092-2298 • 228-9 Yeonnam-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul Izakaya serving various menu items at reasonable price starting at 4,000won.

5pm – 3 am. Closed on Tuesdays L2 228-9 Café / bar C2 070-4244-2289 • 228-9 Yeonnam-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul A cozy place to enjoy cocktails and live music.

2pm – 2am R3 Casa di Noa Italian B3 (02) 3142-1108 • 257-8 Yeonnam-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul Homemade Italian cuisine served by an Italian chef owner.

R4 달빛부엌 Moonlight kitchen Asian cuisine C2 (02) 322-3559 • 227-13 Yeonnam-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul Thai, Chinese and Japanese dishes cooked with the freshest from market daily.

5:30 pm – 1:30 am. Closed on Sundays

C5 Travel Maker cafe B4 (02) 338-1545 • 152-7 Donggyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul American breakfast

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홍대최대포

R10 SOUPMAN Restaurant C4 Serving chicken, brocoll, pumpkin, potato, gorgonzola and cacao soups starting from 5,600 won.

R7 Assisi Italian D3 070-4114-0736 • 227-6 Yeonnam-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul Almost as if you’re dining at your friends’. This small but welcoming ambiance is recommended for dining with your friends. / 11:50 am – 11 pm.

Closed on Mondays.

C2 Viva Brasil Brazilian dessert cafe C2 070-8951-8282 • 255-25 Yeonnam-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul A dessert café serving Brazilian fruit bowl, smoothies and cheese breads.

C3 Isim Coffee shop D3 070-4238-5050 • 227-5 Yeonnam-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul Just when you think you know about coffee, the barista owner will extend your knowledge. Just ask. You won’t regret C4 Tomi’s bakery Bakery C4 (02) 333-0608 • 148-4 Donggyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul A local bakery opened by a Japanese patissier Tomigawa. Vietnamese coffee is recommended to go with its breads. / 10 am – 9 pm

Donggyo-dong Samgeori

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L3 Sisili Soju bar D2 (02) 334-8117 • 227-15 Yeonnam-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul Groove editors’ favorite spot.

Seafood grilled or raw, beef grilled or raw and Hallasan soju. Soju lovers’ haven for sleepless nights.

6 pm – 5 am R6 Taiwanese Night Market 대만야시장 Taiwanese restaurant C2 (02) 322-3058 • 227-20 Yeonnam-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul Various Taiwanese dumplings, Paux mama, fried chicken/prawn/port/squid starting at 5,000won. The best spot for late night snacks in the area.

9 am – 2 am R5 Himeji Japanese curry D3 010-4743-1055 • 227-15 Yeonnam-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul Homemade curry at less than 5,500won.

Its menu curry noodle is strongly recommended to first time visitors.

This is the place where you can experience Korean culture and get information about travelling in Seoul.

weekend DIY

K-FOOD COOKING

K-POP Dance Class

Haechi Hall event

HANBOK (Korean Traditional Costume)

Korean Painting class

Email seoulcenter3789@gmail.com

EXIT

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Euljiro 1-ga Station

Website www.seoulculturalcenter.com (English support) Facebook www.facebook.com/Seoulcenter3789

Myeong-dong Tourist Information Center

10 min. walk

Opening Hours 10:30am - 7:30pm open everyday except New Yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Day & Chuseok

Myeong-dong Theater

Tel 02.3789.7961

EXIT

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5F

5 min. walk

5 min. walk

Address 5th FL, M-Plaza, 27 Myeong-dong 8-gil, Junggu, Seoul

EXIT

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Myeong-dong Station

SAMCHEONG-DONG

The establishments on our maps are carefully selected and based solely on recommendations from our editors, foodies and readers.

Groove strictly separates these pages from commercial advertisements. These maps are only intended to serve the interests and cravings of our readers

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Silkroad Museum

R12 C1

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R3 R4

R1

Eros Museum LeeC Gallery

Bansuk Villa

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Café bene National Folklore Museum Samcheong Police Box Jinsun Book Café

R6

C2

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Jeongdok Public Library

CU cvs

R5

Bukchon Art&culture Museum

C4

Hakgojae Gallery

R11

KIEHL’S

C3

Seoul Education Museum

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R9

Art Sonjae Center R7

R10

National Museum of Contemporary Art, Seoul Branch

R8

Dam Gallery R13

R1

C1 Milk Bakery B1 (02) 735-7111 • 16-2 Palpan-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul

R7

R1 A table French B1 (02) 736-1048 • 104-8 Palpan-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul

R3

R3 Cheongsoojeong 청수정 Korean / Seafood C1 (02) 738-8288 • 88-23 Samcheong-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul R4 Chez simon French C1 (02) 730-1045 • 63-10 Samcheongdong, Jongro-gu, Seoul

C2 Café aA Cafe b3 (02) 722-1211 • 55 Sogyeok-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul

R12

R6 Agio Italian C3 (02) 720-1211 • 23-11 Hwa-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul

C3 Hit The Spot Cafe b3 (02) 739-5100 • 87 Sogyeok-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul

R8 Ramyeon Dangineunnal 라면땡기는날 Korean noodle C4 (02) 733-3330 • 138-21 Hwa-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul

R9 Dal Indian curry C4 (02) 736-4627 • 144-2 Sogyeok-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul R10 Satbyuldang Chicken C4 (070) 7773-4773 • 144-6 Sogyeok-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul Skewered chicken with soy sauce / spicy sauce at 2,000won. Just look for a long waiting line.

R5 The Restaurant French B3 (02) 735-8441 • 59-1 Sogyeok-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul C2

C4 Coffee Bangakgan 커피방앗간 Cafe b3 (02) 732-7656 • 102-1 Hwa-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul

R7 Cheonjin Poja 천진포자 Asian C4 (02) 739-6086 • 148-2 Sogyeok-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul

R5

R11 Samcheonghwa Korean C4 (02) 733-8273 • 112 Sogyeok-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul R12 Flora Pizza C1 (02) 732-7009 • 147-20 Samcheong-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul Forno-ovened pizza R13 Kongji Potji Italian D4 (02) 745-2203 • 34-1 Jae-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul

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Seochon (서촌), located west of the Gyeongbokgung Palace, literally “West village” / “Western village”, is one of the oldest neighborhoods of Seoul, traditionally associated with Joseon era and Korean literature.

Long neglected compared to the wealthier Bukchon (on the other side of the palace), Seochon has reclaimed part of its popularity, particularly following the protection of one of Seoul’s largest clusters of hanok (over 600), and the renovation of landmarks to host cultural venues.

Experience the warm memories of the hidden old alleys of Seochon

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Seochon

The establishments on our maps are carefully selected and based solely on recommendations from our editors, foodies and readers.

Groove strictly separates these pages from commercial advertisements. These maps are only intended to serve the interests and cravings of our readers

Starbucks

L8 L7 Church

R1

R4 R3 Hyundai Motors

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L9

Dunkin Donuts

Paris Baguette

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R2

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Geumcheongyo Market

Kia Motors

L5

2 CU cvs

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ung Stn. (Line3)

L2 Bob Dylan & The Band Pub C3 (02) 739-6565 • 90 Chebu-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul 8pm - 2am

R1 Chebudong Janchijib (체부동잔치집) Korean D3 (02) 730-5420 • 190 Chebu-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoula Perilla seed noodle, seafood and green onion jeon (pancake) and spicy noodle recommended.

9:30 am – 1 am L1 Seochon Kyedanjib (서촌계단집) Pub C3 (02) 737-8412 • 11-1 Naeja-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul Two thumbs up! The best seafood tent-bar in Seoul. Serves the freshest seafood of the season daily delivered directly from the local fishermen.

R4 JeoNDaegamdaek (전대감댁) Korean C3 (070) 4202-5170 • 184 Chebu-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul Serves unique and various kinds of Makeoli.

Its menu items are perfect for meals as well.

L3 Cheolpannam (철판남) Pub A2 (070) 8776-6001 • 155-2 Philun-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul Teppan Yaki bar with Wagyu (Kobe) beef steak Reasonable steak menu price starting at 15,000 won.

L4 Philun Sanghye (필운상회) Pub A2 Opened by the same owner of Cheolpannam (iron-pan man), serves anju to go with soju.

Customers can order from Cheolpannam menu as well.

L7 Hyoja Barbe (효자바베) Pub B2 (070) 8749-0019 • 210-3 Chebu-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul Pork bbq, chicken and grilled prawns starting at 25,000 won.

L5 Anju Maeul (안주마을)

R2 Tongyoung Sangsungui (통영생선구이) Korean C3 (02) 739-3322 • 20 Naeja-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul Grilled fish and seafood restaurant

R3 Simsanae (심산애) Korean B3 (02) 734-1112 • 205-1 Philun-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul Strongly recommended its Deodeok Makeoli made of mountain herb harvested be the owner a real ginseng digger.

Pub D3 (02) 723-3529 • 1-2 Naej a-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul Cooked octopus and boiled cockles

L6 Passion Potato (열정감자) Pub C3 (070) 7778-4676 • 24 Naeja-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul Fried potatoes with various seasonings and coffee draught beer and citrus draught beer.

L8 Seochon 181 (서촌181) JAPANESE PUB C2 (02) 733-0181 • 181 Chebu-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul Japanese casual pub with many sake menu.

L9 Killi BanBan (킬리뱅뱅) PUB C3 (010) 5737-0852 • 23 Naeja-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul Spanish Hipster pub carrying the finest Platinum beer.

Myeong-dong

The establishments on our maps are carefully selected and based solely on recommendations from our editors, foodies and readers.

Groove strictly separates these pages from commercial advertisements. These maps are only intended to serve the interests and cravings of our readers

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Euljiro 1(il)-ga Stn. 8 7 1 Lotte Hotel

7-Eleven cvs

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KEB

Seoul

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Mr. Pizza

Myeong-dong Tourist Information Center

Metro Hotel

Skypark Hotel [II]

7-Eleven cvs

Skypark Hotel [Central]

Lotte Duty Free

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Lotte Avenuel

Lotte Cinema

Seoul YMCA

ABC Mart

Ibis Ambassador Hotel

R4

Hadongkwan

Osulloc Tee house

Seoul Royal Hotel

Starbucks

R2

Myeong-dong Donkatsu

Olive young

Myeong-dong Shinhan Bank Burger King Theater

Lotte Young Plaza

Jhill Hotel

Police Stn.

Nanta Theater

R3

Andong Jjimdak Myeong-dong Catholic church

Olive young

Frisbee

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Hamheung Myeonok

R1

Chinese Embassy

Myeong-dong Kyoja Seoul lobal Cultural Center

Vips

Kyesung Girlsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;High School

CROCS

A-land

GS25 cvs

Savoy Hotel

Starbucks

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NineTree Hotel Shinhan Bank

Quicksilver & Roxi

CGV

The Grand Hotel

Skypark Hotel [III] TOUSlesJOURS

Migliore

R1 Myeongdong Kyoja Korean D3 With more than 40 years of history, Myeongdong Kyoja has been loved by the locals for many years. The restaurant is popular for its Kalguksu, a Korean noodle dish that serves handmade noodles and other ingredients in a bowl of thick chicken broth. The mini dumpling toppings add a zesty touch while the crazy chili kimchi gives you garlic breath that may be hellish for your companion, but well worth it. The pork dumplings are also highly recommended.

R2 Myeongdong Donkatsu Korean B2 Opened in 1983, this restaurant serves delicious donkatsu (Japanese pork cutlet).

The secret is in aging thick slices of seasoned pork fillet (150kg total) for three to four days making the meat tenderer.

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R3 Andong Jjimdak Korean D2 Dak means chicken in Korean, and jjim means steamed, stewed or braised in a sauce. Andong Jjimdak, which originated from the city of Andong, is a spicy version that has become enormously popular since late 1990â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s. Braised in a sweet and savory braising liquid, the dish gets its spiciness from dried whole red chili peppers and fresh fiery hot green peppers called Cheongyang gochu.

R4 Hadongkwan Korean D2 Opened in 1939, it is the most representative gomtang (traditional Korean soup boiled with beef bone) restaurant in Seoul.

With its long history, Hadongkwan provides an authentic taste of gomtang and it only opens its door until 4:30pm.

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