Groove Korea April 2014 by Groove Korea

At Pyongyang Restaurant, it’s not about the food North Korean restaurant in Phnom Penh is eerily enchanting www.groovekorea.com

KOREA • Issue 90 / April 2014

The rise of

the Sandwich A handful of restaurants are leading a resistance against bad bread and sweet pickles

Only in dreams

The ghosts of Seoul

Channeling Korea

Lee Jee-young builds her dreams with her own two hands — and no Photoshop

The capital’s gruesome history comes back to haunt it

YouTube channel Sweet and Tasty makes learning Korean fun

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EDITORIAL

To comment, email editor@groovekorea.com

Thank you and good-bye to the restaurants I’ve enjoyed over the years

A farewell, and the food editor’s favorites Editorial

By Josh Foreman, Food and Destinations Editor

used to read a book to second graders called “Better Move on, Frog.” A frog would go to different animals’ homes. At each home a different animal would say, “Better move on Frog.” A bee, a badger – they all told him the same thing. Eventually he ended up at a pond, where he was welcomed by other frogs. Now I am the frog, and it is time to move on. But before I do, I want to recognize some of the restaurants that have sustained me through seven years in Korea. What follows is a list of my favorite restaurants in Seoul and why I love them. 1. OKitchen: OKitchen is the best restaurant I have ever eaten at, anywhere. When I visited in 2008 my palate was forever changed for the better. Chef Susumu Yongari is the man responsible. The sashimi plate there is the most interesting plate of food I’ve ever had, a nine-bite masterpiece of raw seafood and acidity. I had my first taste of truffle at OKitchen, my first lamb ragù and my first terrine. My first visit there was with my wife, long before either of us thought we’d get married some day. I will be forever grateful to Yongari for enriching my life. 2. Everest: The Indian Subcontinent is my favorite place to travel because of the colors, the smells, the general liveliness and above all, the bold, spicy, textured, unique cuisine. I love Everest because it embodies all that. The food is expertly made, from the fiery hot vindaloo to the thin, chewy naan to the dense and crumbly samosas. But eating there is about more than food. Try it and you’ll see – with its mint green walls, prayer flags, nooks, knickknacks, Bollywood movies, crowds, incense and cold beer, eating at Everest is just fun. 3. Trevia Pizza di Roma: In Seoul, it is imminently possible to pay a little money for poor food. It is also possible to pay a lot of money for good food. And sadly, it is possible to pay a lot of money for poor food. It is the rare restaurant that manages to serve good

food for little money. Trevia is one of those places. Their pizza is thin and chewy, with a crisp crust. Their toppings are high quality – buffalo mozzarella, chorizo, fresh basil, kabocha squash. The atmosphere is comfortable and refined without being pretentious. It’s my favorite pizza place on earth, and dinner for my wife and I is always around 30,000 won. 4. Casablanca: Wahid and Karim Naciri made a contribution to Seoul’s expat community when they opened their sandwich shop in Haebangcheon in 2011. They gave us some insanely good sandwiches – the best in the city, in my opinion. Who knew chicken breast, fried potatoes and French bread could be so good? But they also became part of expat culture: A place that everyone visits. A place where people run into each other. A place people talk about. They helped create something that can be difficult to find when you’re a stranger in a strange land: a sense of community. 5. Zelen: Before first eating at Mihal Ashminov’s restaurant in 2008, I had never had Bulgarian food. I knew nothing about Bulgarian food. Or Bulgaria. Now I know: It is all about roasted meats and vegetables, smoked cheese, pickles and yogurt. Bulgarian food is simple and hearty and charred and grilled and rich and saucy. For years Zelen has been my go-to recommendation for expats looking for a nice dinner out. I’ve yet to meet the person who didn’t like their honest, filling and tasty food. With their lively décor, deep and interesting wine list, and group-friendly menu options, Zelen is a satisfying restaurant for a date, a meal out with friends or a celebration. Missing from this list are the many dozens of Korean restaurants I have relished eating at over the years. There are too many to list. Suffice it to say that Korean cuisine remains one of my favorites in the world, and I am grateful to all the cooks throughout the peninsula who have introduced me to hansik’s wonderful complexity over the years.

Hot on: www.groovekorea.com Music & Arts

Insight

Into the mind of Martyn Thompson

The big bucks in beauty

Korea looks different through the eyes of Martyn Thompson. Its animals are encased in Perspex. Its people are blotted with stamps. Its mountains are shattered, its bachelors naked and forced into stress positions. Since 2008, Thompson has sought to show Korea back to itself in his own peculiar way. Thompson always drew and he was influenced by his parents’ artistic endeavors. His grandmother gave him coloring books as Christmas and birthday presents “until the age of 14, when she had no idea I was far too old to be getting coloring books.” At 15 he had himself excluded from religious studies class, so he could focus on his art. All he did was draw pictures then, anyway.

“The more you spend in Korea, the more beautiful you will be,” says Kim Hye-ra, a 28-year-old office worker from Seoul, as she peers at her perfectly manicured nails. “I haven’t had surgery, but that’s just because I haven’t had the money to do it yet. I guess I should save, but I’m always spending my money on my hair and nails and makeup.” Kim says she’s been keeping up with Korean beauty ideals since she was a teenager. She visits the nail salon every week to get a manicure, gel color and nail art, and has her hair colored or restyled bimonthly, though she declined to disclose her spending. “I do it to keep up with my friends and coworkers. … I don’t want to be the ugly duck. No one does.” It’s no secret that beauty is big business in the country nicknamed “the republic of plastic surgery.” But women in Korea aren’t just digging deep to go under the knife. They are also shelling out for non-evasive procedures, regular beauty treatments, cosmetics and makeup.

Story by Dave Hazzan Read it online in April or in print in May

Story by Remy Raitt Read it online in April or in print in May

www.groovekorea.com / April 2014

CONTENTS

What’s in this issue

ISSUE 90

April 2014

FOOD

46 SEOUL VEGGIE KITCHEN Rice + stuff + stirring = You can totally make this and it’s more nutritious than ramen.

THE RISE OF THE SANDWICH We’ve all had a Korean sandwich experience that we’d rather not repeat. Here we offer a list of impressive alternatives, all waiting to be enjoyed.

WELCOME

INSIGHT

06 - Editorial Food and destinations editor Josh Foreman bids farewell to Groove Korea and gives a nod to some of his favorite eateries in the city.

20 - On the Cover

14 - Key people Introducing some of the editors, writers and photographers behind April’s issue

30 - the news Attempted suicide, rich man murdered, obesity doubles, soldiers freer

22 - What’s on Festivals, concerts, happy hours, networking and events for every day of the month

32 - THE PENSION DEALS Find out about the National Pension Service’s exclusions and what they might mean for you.

FOOD 44 - A VEGAN LEADER BRANCHES OUT If you live in Seoul and are avoiding animal products, PLANT is your new oasis in the sea of galbi restaurants.

34 - Skiing to success in North Korea It takes more than propaganda to breed Olympians.

17 - The inbox Opinions and feedback from readers 18 - Must reads A selection of our editors’ favorite articles

Destinations

www.groovekorea.com / April 2014

48 - THE GHOSTS OF SEOUL Joe McPherson leads the way with Seoul’s one and only ghost walk, the Dark Side of Seoul Tour.

CONTENTS

What’s in this issue

ISSUE 90

April 2014

MUSIC & ARTS

64 THE ANDONG MASK MAKER A craftsman from North Gyeongsang Province is reviving the art of shaman mask-making.

58 DESTINATIONS 52 - FAST-TRACKING IN TOKYO There and back again: A Gyeongsangbased expat’s tour of the Tokyo Basin 56 - AT PYONGYANG RESTAURANT, IT’S NOT ABOUT THE FOOD North Korea’s exported restaurants offer mediocre fare with a side of bizarre cultural experience.

ONLY IN DREAMS If you have an eye for the ethereal and an appreciation for the un-Photoshopped, Lee Jee-young’s images are sure to captivate.

MUSIC & ARTS 62 - MICHAEL ROY The globetrotting artist gives his thoughts on irony, conformity and the street art community.

70 - ARTIST’S JOURNEY Yvette Cruz’s blog, District Gal, is helping expats navigate the hive of fashion that is the Korean capital.

74 - CHANNELING KOREA With 140,000 subscribers and 1.5 million views, Mina Oh’s Sweet And Tasty YouTube channel has got what you’re craving.

66 - YUKARI Groove sat down with the multitalented purveyor of “dream pop,” whose new album is written, arranged, mixed and mastered by the artist herself.

72 - AT THE BOX OFFICE “The Amazing Spider-Man 2” (April 24) “Divergent” (April 17)

76 - KICK ASS AND MELT THE PUDGE AWAY Martial arts gym Body & Seoul expands to offer more space and improved facilities in Gyeongnidan.

68 - John Mayer hits Seoul The acoustic legend is making his Seoul debut on May 6.

CAPTURING KOREA

Community

73 - DVD CORNER “New World (신세계)” “The City of Violence (짝패)”

78 - BRINGING OUT THE COLOR IN AN ANCIENT FORTRESS From the golden hour to the blue hour, a structural engineer heads to Suwon to shoot the perfect time of day.

DISTRACTIONS 84 - GROOVE LISTINGS Doctors, travel agencies, restaurants, hotels, airlines, nightclubs and more 88 - COMICS 89 - GAMES 90 - HOROSCOPES 92 - PROMOTIONS A selection of deals around Korea

10 www.groovekorea.com / April 2014

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Credits - Contributors

KOREA 4th floor, Shinwoo Bldg. 5-7 Yongsan 3-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul, Korea.

KEY PEOPLE

Some of the editors, writers and photographers behind this month’s issue

Albert Kim Contact Info (010) 5348-0212 / (02) 6925-5057 For Advertising ads@groovekorea.com For General Inquiries info@groovekorea.com EDITORIAL Editorial Director Elaine Ramirez elaine@groovekorea.com Insight Editor Matthew Lamers mattlamers@groovekorea.com Food & Destinations Editor Josh Foreman joshforeman@groovekorea.com Community Editor Jenny Na jenny@groovekorea.com Music & Arts Editor Emilee Jennings emilee@groovekorea.com Associate Editor Shelley DeWees shelley@groovekorea.com Editor-at-large John M. Rodgers jmrseoul@gmail.com Copy Editors Jaime Stief, Albert Kim, Daniel Deacon, Karie Schulenburg, Kevin Lee Selzer GrooveCast Host Chance Dorland chancedorland@seoulitup.com ART & DESIGN Art Director Park Seong-eun sam@groovekorea.com Illustration Director Wilfred Lee Design Adviser Prof. Kim Duck-mo MARKETING & ADMINISTRATION CFO Steve Seung-Jin Lee steve.lee@groovekorea.com Marketing Executive Jay Park jpark@groovemedia.co.kr Manager Peter Chong yschong@groovekorea.com Accounting Choi Hye-won Web, I.T. Dan Himes danhimes@groovekorea.com WRITERS & PROOFREADERS Alejandro Callirgos, Alexander Hall, Anita McKay, Anna Schlotjes, Anthony Levero, Christine Pickering, Christopher Green, Conor O’Reilly, Conrad Hughes, Daniel Deacon, Daniel Kang, Dave Hazzan, Dean Crawford, Deva Lee, Eileen Cahill, Elaine Knight, Felix Im, George Kalli, Hyunwoo Sun, Ian Henderson, Ian McClellan, Jamie Keener, Jean Poulot, Jenny Clemo, Jonathan Aichele, Justin Chapura, Ken Fibbe, Ken Hall, Leslie Finlay, Liam Mitchinson, Matt VanVolkenburg, Paul Sharkie, Rajnesh Sharma, Rebekah McNay, Remy Raitt, Ron Roman, Ryan Ritter, Sean Maylone, Shireen Tofig, Sophie Boladeras, Stephanie Anglemyer, Stephanie McDonald, Timothy Cushing, Walter Stucke, Wilfred Lee

PHOTOGRAPHERS & ILLUSTRATORS Colin Dabbs, Craig Stuart, Dirk Schlottman, Don Sin, Dylan Goldby, Fergus Scott, James Kim, Jen Lee, Jon Linke, Jungeun Jang, Kevin Kilgore, Matt Treager, Merissa Quek, Michael Hurt, Michael Roy, Min Pang, Nicholas Stonehouse, Nina Sawyer, Pat Volz, Peter DeMarco, Sabrina Hill, Sacha Treager, Samantha Whittaker

Executive Director Craig White craig@groovekorea.com Publisher Sean Choi sean@groovekorea.com * The photos that accompanied the story “Get Lucky” in the March issue were incorrectly attributed to Michelle Murphy. They were taken by Michele Farley. To contribute to Groove Korea, email submissions@groovekorea.com or the appropriate editor. To write a letter to the editor, email editor@groovekorea.com. To have Groove Korea delivered to your home or business, email subscribe@groovekorea.com. To promote your event, email events@groovekorea.com. To advertise, email ads@groovekorea.com. The articles are the sole property of GROOVE MEDIA CO. Ltd. No reproduction is permitted without the express written consent of GROOVE MEDIA CO. Ltd. The opinions expressed in the magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher.

14 www.groovekorea.com / April 2014

U.S.

Albert studied journalism and French in university and came to Seoul in search of his roots. His passion is studying pansori, and getting his foot in the door of the music industry. He spends time eating, writing, taking pictures and finding the golden ratio of so-maek. He’s worked as a bartender, teacher, editor, journalist and, before Korea, at Louis Vuitton.

Christine Pickering Canada

Christine is an ESL instructor hailing from Toronto, Canada, and has lived in Korea for almost four years. She currently works at a women’s university in northern Seoul, but her preferred profession would be paid world traveler. In her free time, she writes, takes photos, dives, skis, hikes and attempts to rock climb. She is happy to be a member of the Groove Korea team. Christine Pickering wrote “The ghosts of Seoul” for this month’s issue.

Dan Himes U.S.

Dan is a Web nerd and Busan resident who has always lived near water. He grew up in Pennsylvania, but no, he isn’t Amish. He loves long walks on Haeundae Beach, geeking out in front of his computer and sporting Hawaiian shirts each and every Friday. He enjoys these activities even more with a bottle of makgeolli. Dan is our website technician.

Jen Lee U.S.

Jen is a Korean-American who resides in the city of Gwangju. She is currently working at an animation company while also doing work as a freelance artist whenever she can. Jen hopes to someday change the world with her silly drawings. When she’s not working or trying to improve her skills, she can be found sleeping, watching cartoons or playing video games. Her current addiction is milk tea. Jen contributes the monthly comic strip “Dear Korea.”

Matthew Lamers Canada

After living in Korea and Japan for eight years, Matt traded in his T-Money Card for a GSX LE 2013 ski-doo (not literally) and moved to the bustling metropolis of Fort St. John, British Columbia, with his wife and two children. He’s a reporter. The temperature is often minus 37, but at least there is no yellow dust. Formerly the Editor-in-Chief, Matt is Groove Korea’s Insight Editor.

THE INBOX Groove readers’ opinions and feedback

Korea asks, ‘How are you doing, Thailand?’ Feeling homesick recently, I was surfing the web for news from my second home, Thailand. The Bangkok Post delivered a surprising report on the political chaos in the state, which I was totally ignorant of. The news read that the abusive amnesty bill was rushed through in favor of former Prime Minister Thaksin’s acquittal. To a certain extent, I couldn’t shake the feeling that the situation in Bangkok was somewhat similar to what was happening in Seoul. South Korea is also facing social discontent at the moment. The government’s stern actions have motivated avant-garde protests by students. Korea’s first-ever female president, Park Geun-hye, has been glossing over her scandals, such as the intelligence agency’s electioneering and the forced construction of an unwanted high-voltage power line in a rural province. Yet, when she dismissed 4,213 Korail union members involved in the strikes on Dec. 9, it overshot the mark. Due to the government’s harsh stance, a student from Korea University, Joo Hyun-woo, put up a heartfelt, handwritten poster. The poster’s title, “How are you doing?” struck a nerve, and responsive postings have spread around the country. The purpose of this simple question was to arouse 20-somethings’ concern over their sociopolitical apathy. Both Thailand and Korea adopted democratic political systems, but we (Koreans) were not practicing it. It was saddening to see Korean student so despondent. Then Korean society split into two groups, like that of Thailand. Reds criticized the movement on behalf of president Park Geun-hye and Yellows supported the poster movement to argue against the new health care legislation. However, the appeal was never meant to form political confrontation between Reds and Yellows. It only pleaded for democracy. Korean youngsters were not participating in politics. The politicians were not reflecting the will of people and justified their actions under the false name of national loss. The country of democracy was not conducting state affairs by democratic means. In Thailand, the voices of both the upcountry people and PDRC backers were not taken seriously. Rural people had no access to accurate information. Elite voters in urban Bangkok were unaware of the reality on the ground. Democracy was missing in this Southeast Asian country as well. Thailand and Korea need to install democratic procedures to attain their goal of settling down the political discord. Thailand and Korea are great places in my memory. Apart from the love of K-pop, the two nations share a number of similarities, like the first-ever female leaders to take the highest rank in the nation and that Reds and Yellows are clashing over political opinions. Yet, more to the point, they are lands of democracy. Here and there, we have the right to speak. So, how are you doing, Thailand? By Kim Jae-heun, journalism undergraduate, Hankuk University of Foreign Studies

MUST READS

A selection from our editors

MUST READs The rise of the sandwich

Fast-tracking in Tokyo

Page 36

Page 52

To understand the depth of the Korean sandwich problem, it’s necessary to sit and stare at a bad Korean sandwich. Take the Paris Baguette “Lunch Sandwich”: It’s free of jam, but contains almost every other offense and is representative of what’s available in bakeries all over the peninsula. Thankfully, these five restaurants all bring something special to the table.

Conrad Hughes shares the highs and lows of a cultural sojourn in manic Tokyo. From the more diverse beer culture to the more awkward sex culture, either way, he’s happy to be back on Korean soil.

Only in dreams

The ghosts of Seoul

Page 58

In her tiny Seoul studio, Korean artist Lee Jee-young packs a multilayered punch that combines painting, sculpture, installation, theatrical performance, videography and staged analogue photography. Abstaining from all outside assistance — human and Photoshop alike — Lee’s photographs have gained international acclaim for expressing made-up mindscapes that only she can see.

Channeling Korea

Page 48

Though Seoul isn’t unique for its history of gruesome violence, its history with the supernatural might set it apart. Stemming from as far back as the Joseon Dynasty, Koreans and expatriates living in Seoul have reported personal experiences with the supernatural. Christine Pickering braved the dark truth for her story on ghost culture in Seoul.

Yukari

Page 74

Page 66

Korean-American Mina Oh noticed that there weren’t many Korean-language videos on YouTube, so she threw together a simple Hangul lesson and the video was online in just a couple of hours. The architecture undergrad had no idea that the video would eventually rake in more than 1.5 million views, and thus the YouTube channel Sweet And Tasty was born.

Stares can be a bit disconcerting when riding the Seoul subway, so I put in my earbuds, close my eyes and let the relaxing waves of Yukari’s electro-pop take me elsewhere. Yukari is still in her early twenties, but her chilled-out, synthheavy music is already making waves in Korea’s burgeoning electronic music scene.

18 www.groovekorea.com / April 2014

COVER The rise of the sandwich As summed up by the Seoul Sandwich Lovers Facebook page, “Korea is where sandwich craft comes to die.” Be that as it may, a handful of restaurants in the city are leading a resistance, and great sandwich shops in Seoul are becoming a mainstay. Let’s explore our options. Read the story on Page 36.

Cover photo by Nina Sawyer Design by Park Seong-eun

Our past three issues

March 2014

February 2014

January 2014

Expat superstars Monkeys and machetes Do your own brew

Korea’s black racist epidemic Threadbare on the Silk Road The artistic entrepreneur

Winter’s silver lining The beers of winter Unhinging Korea

COVER Deadline: July 20th

Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s On SUN

For suggestions or comments, email events@groovekorea.com

MON q

Festivals

Theater

Music / Dance

Travel / Sports

Arts

Networking / Social

Exhibitions

Food / Drinks

TUE

WED

Tongyeong International Music Festival @Tongyeong, Gyeongsangnam-do; to April 3; timf.org

Birth of a Museum: The MMCA Construction Archive Project @ National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art; to July 27; mmca.go.kr

All you can eat lamb chops @ Braai Republic, Itaewon Jangwha and Hongryeon- Changgeuk Opera @ National Theater of Korea; to April 6; ntok.go.kr

The Hives Live in Seoul @ UNIQLO AX; 8:00PM; uniqlo-ax.co.kr Jindo Miracle Sea Festival @ Jindo; to April 2; eng.jindo.go.kr

LIFE Photo Exhibition @ Busan Cultural Center; to Apr. 12; seelife.co.kr

2 for 1 Fish and Chips @ The Wolfhound, Itaewon; wolfhoundpub.com

Festival B:om @ Various Locations Throughout Seoul; to Apr. 13; festivalbom.org

Language Exchange Cafe @ Maple Coffee, Hongdae; 3:00 PM; meetup.com/Language-Exchange-Cafe

YEOL Lecture on Hangeul @ Seoul Museum of History, Jongno-gu; 11:30AM; Email yeol400@hanmail.net for info

Home Within Home Within Home Within Home Within Home @ National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art; to May 11; mmca.go.kr

Meditation with Hiking @ Namsan Mountain; 3:00 PM; meetup.com/Meditation-with-Exercise

Taco Tuesday @ Phillies, Itaewon; 5:00PM - 10:00PM Audi Live 2014- Bruno Mars Concert @ Olympic Park, Jamsil; ticket.interpark.com

Wine & Steak Special @ Rocky Mountain Tavern, Itaewon; 10:00 PM; rockymountaintavern.com Jinhae Cherry Blossom Festival @ Jinhae Jungwon Rotary; to April 10; gunhang.changwon.go.kr

Musical Gloomy Day @ Vivaldi Park Hall; to Apr. 27; ticket.interpark.com

Wing Night & Cocktail Specials @ The Upper Deck, Itaewon; 5:00PM 10:00PM facebook.com/Upper.Deck.Seoul

Zeitgeist Korea @ National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art; to Apr. 27; mmca.go.kr

Quiz Night @ Craftworks Taphouse & Bistro, Itaewon; craftworkstaphouse.com

Rodfest 2014 @ Yes24-Muvhall, Hongdae; 5:00PM 9:00PM / ticket.yes24.com

Wicked, The Musical @ Charlotte Theater, Jamsil; to April 30; ticket.interpark.com

Andre Kim Rotating Exhibitions @ National Folk Museum; to Apr. 21; nfm.go.kr

Ghost, the Musical @ D Cube Art Center; to May 11; ticket.interpark.com

Wordsmiths @ Southside Parlor, Noksapyeong; 5:00 PM; LanguageCast facebook.com/groups/wordsmiths.seoul @ Hongdae; 7:00 PM; meetup.com/Languagecast

Perfume FES!! Live Concert @ UNIQLO-AX, Gwangjin-gu; ticket.yes24.com

Burger Monday @ Bull & Barrel, Itaewon; facebook.com/BullnBarrelSeoul

Trivia Night @ Rocky Mountain Tavern, Itaewon; 6:30 PM; rockymountaintavern.com

Tonhalle Orchestra Zurich Korean Tour @ Seoul Arts Center; 8:00PM; sac.or.kr

Wing Night @ Frankenstein, the Musical @ Rocky Mountain Tavern, Itaewon; 4:00PM Chungmu Art Hall; to May 11; until close; ticket.interpark.com rockymountaintavern.com Wine Down Wednesday @ PhotoSight @ TBA; 7:00- 10:00PM; National Museum of Modern and zenkimchi.com Contemporary Art; to June 29; mmca.go.kr

Ars Nova I Chamber Concert @ Sejong Center for the Performing Arts; 7:30PM; Reservations: hssong@seoulphil.or.kr

Shinan Tulip Festival @ Shinan Tulip Park, Jeollanam-do; to April 27; shinantulip.co.kr

Jeff Beck Live In Seoul @ Olympic Hall; 6:00PM; olympicpark.co.kr

Ultimate Korean BBQ Experience @ Mapo Station; every Monday 5:00PM; zenkimchi.com

Korean Art from the Museum Collection: Grand Narrative Part II @ National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art; to May 31; mmca.go.kr

Yangpyeong Strawberry Festival @ Boritgogae Village, Gyeonggi-do; to May 31; ypnadri.com

Universal Ballet, Nacho Duato MULTIPLICITY @ LG Arts Center; Apr. 25 to Apr. 27; ticket.interpark.com Ulsan Whale Festival @ Taehwagang River, Ulsan; to April 27; whalekorea.com

Jump @ Kyunghyang Art Hill; to Dec. 31; ticket.interpark.com Mungyeong Traditional Chasabal Festival @ Mungyeongsaejae Provincial Park area; to May 6; sabal21.com

*All the events published in this calendar are subject to unforeseen changes by the promoters. Groove Korea does not take responsibility for any misunderstandings or third-party damage.

THU

April

FRI

SAT

YGVC K-pop Dance Class @ Yeoksam 1 Culture Center Gymnasium; Thursdays to Apr. 24; global.seoul.go.kr/yeoksam

Ghost, the Musical @ D Cube Art Center; to Apr. 6; ticket.interpark.com

The Phantom of the Opera @ Keimyung Art Center, Daegu; to Apr. 6; ticket.interpark.com

Happy Hour @ Bull & Barrel, Itaewon; 3:00 PM - 5:00 PM; facebook.com/BullnBarrelSeoul

Charity Date Auction for C.A.R.E @ Bull & Barrel, Itaewon; 8:00PM; 5,000won facebook.com/careanimalrights

Suzanne Vega Live In Seoul @ Mapo Arts Center, Mapo-gu; 8:00PM ticket.yes24.com

Cherry Blossom Gyeongju Bike Tour @ Stand-up Seoul @ Gyeongju; to April 5; Rocky Mountain Tavern, Itaewon; 9:00 adventurekorea.com PM; facebook.com/groups/standupseoul

Hwagae Cherry Blossom Festival Day Trip @Hwagae; 30,000 won; meetup.com

Ladies’ Night @ Rocky Mountain Tavern, Itaewon; 6:00 PM; rockymountaintavern.com

Drink Specials @ Dillinger’s Bar, Itaewon; 4:00 PM - close;

Trace U @ Uniplex Hall 2; to Jun. 29; ticket.interpark.com

Seoul Hiking Group Gyeongju Tour @ Le Roi Soleil Musical @ Gyeongju; to April 13; Blue Square Music Hall, Hanam-dong; to facebook.com/groups/seoulhiking June 1; bluesquare.kr

Svetlin Roussev Violin Recital @ Sejong Center for the Performing Arts; 7:30PM; Reservations: hssong@seoulphil.or.kr

Seokchon Lake Cherry Blossom Festival @ Seokchon Lake area, Jamsil; to April 13; culture.songpa.go.kr

Iron Mike @ Rocky Mountain Tavern, Itaewon; 10:00PM; rockymountaintavern.com

Seoul World Beer Festival @ COEX Hall C, Seoul; to April 19; siwse.com

Joint Security Area-JSA Musical @ Dongsoong Art Center; to Apr. 27; dsartcenter.co.kr

Samsung d’light @ Samsung Electronics Building, Gangnam; until Dec. 31 visitseoul.net

Open Mic Night @ Club Naked, Itaewon; 9:00PM; facebook.com/seoul.streetz

Dark Side of Seoul Tour @ Anguk Station; every Fri. and Sat. 7:00PM;zenkimchi.com Rock Spring 2014 @ Yes24 Muv Hall; ticket.interpark.com

Business Network Korea (BNK) Meet Up @ COEX,Gangnam; 2:00PM; meetup.com/Business-Network-Korea

Trivia Night @ Dillinger’s Bar, Itaewon; 8:00 PM; facebook.com/dillingersseoul

Loungin’ @ Bedlam, Itaewon; 11:00 PM;

PhotoSight Exhibition @ National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art; to June 29; moca.go.kr

2014 IIHF World Championship - Korea vs Japan @ Goyang Sport Complex & Park Ice Rink; ticket.interpark.com

31 Dance Musical Sachoom @ Sa Choom Theater (Nakwon Building); ticket.interpark.com Bitnoriya in Yeosu @ Geobukseon Park, Yeosu; to May 11; yeosu.go.kr

Lotus Lantern Festival @ Jogyesa Temple and Bonguensa Temple; to April 27; lif.or.kr Shake Shop Vol. 14 @ Club Freebird, Hongdae; 8:30 PM; clubfreebird.com

“The Amazing Spider-Man 2” hits local theaters on April 30. See our story on Page 72

Musiq Soulchild Live In Seoul @ UNIQLO-AX Hall, Gwangjin-gu; 7:00PM s2enter.com

Ars Nova II Orchestral Concert @ Seoul Arts Center; 8:00PM; sac.or.kr

The Dark Side of Seoul tours are back and spookier than ever. See our story on Page 52

Asan Great Admiral Yi Sun-Sin Festival @ Onyang Oncheon Station Square, Asan; to April 27; e-sunshin.com Drum Cat @ Myungbo Art Hall; ongoing; ticket.interpark.com

Get fit now! Body & Seoul just moved to a new location. See our story on Page 76

very year, Seoul plays host to Asiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s largest photography exhibition, where thousands of visitors in the region converge at Coex to take in the latest prototypes in camera equipment and learn tools of the trade from world-renowned photographers. The Seoul lnternational Photo & Imaging Industry Show at Coex has become so robust that it can be almost uttered in the same breath as major industry conventions, such as the sprawling Consumer Electronics Show held in Las Vegas each year. Visitors are encouraged to attend and give feedback on some of these remarkable prototypes or even buy from the hundreds of exhibitors on site who are displaying the latest and next-generation photo equipment and technology. Whether you are a sophisticated photographer or a beginner looking to expand on your hobby, this mega event will have something for everyone. e Story by Craig Whit

ou Se l

International

Ph o&

ot Im i ag ng

w o h S y r t I n d us

Notable Facts

• Photo & Imaging was Asia’s first imaging related trade show, and the first Asian photo show to receive UFI certification. • It has been designated as a “promising exhibition” by the Korean Ministry of Knowledge Economy for six consecutive years. • More than 197 exhibitors from 21 countries participated in Photo & Imaging 2013 – an event that featured 748 booths and welcomed 75,257 visitors from all over the world. • Boosting its international recognition, 564 overseas visitors from 51 countries attended the previous event.

Concurrent Shows

Imaging Week 2014 consists of a diverse range of shows that inspire market trends and provide substantial business opportunities. The concurrent events include Photo & Imaging, Asia’s largest photography trade show; Photo & Travel, a show centered around the two themes; New Media Wave, a presentation of new media trends; Smart Accessory Show, an arena for the latest smart accessories; Photo & Optics, an introduction to high optical technology; and Seoul Photo, one of Asia’s first photography oriented art fairs.

Concurrent Events

The list of exciting concurrent events includes P&I DSLR Movie Zone, P&I Seminar, Photo Book Fair, Photo & Travel, Spring Photo Contest, Dream Camera and a P&I Photo Studio, plus many more.

• P&I DSLR Movie Zone This zone will include both high-tech equipment exhibits and seminars. Visitors can learn about the entire movie-making process -- from shooting and editing to post-production -- using DSLR video. • P&I Photo Book Fair A presentation of a variety of photo books, photo collections, photo theory and history of photography books, travel image collections and photo essays. • P&I Seminar P&I seminar topics are as follows: Culture of Photography, Shooting Techniques, Video Editing, Fine Art, Photo Video for Business, New Product Introduction and more. • P&I Photo Studio Visitors may experience an exclusive photo shoot with family, friends, loved ones or by themselves, from a professional photographer (within the exhibition). • Spring Photo Contest Showcase of the P&I Spring Photo Contest 2014’s award-winning entries, organized by the Korea Photo Imaging Marketing Association. • Dream Camera Visitors can discover a dream world of photographs, taken by children of the world with disposable cameras. • Photo & Travel Follow the story of a family’s camping trip through their holiday photographs. • Overseas Buyer & Exhibitor Benefit Programs Photo & Imaging provides benefits to exhibitors and buyers to optimize their participation at Photo & Imaging. • National Pavilion Package Countries looking to bring multiple exhibitors to Photo & Imaging can receive fantastic discounts by organizing a national pavilion. The more exhibitors from each country, the higher the discount, with a 20% reduction in participation fees for national pavilions with 21 or more participants. • Buyer Delegation Program Buyer groups of at least 10 members from international trade associations or government organizations can attend Photo & Imaging as part of an official delegation and are eligible for benefits such as complimentary hotel stays, translation services and more.

Special Events

The Seoul lnternational Photo & Imaging Industry Show will host a preview of “100 Years of Leica,” an auction commemorating the anniversary of the brand, before the sale in Wetzlar, Germany on May 23. The preview event features hundreds of rare Leica products and photography highlights as a precursor to the big auction in May, where 700 rare, high-quality cameras and photographic equipment will be up for sale.

GrooveKorea.com and Facebook Rollout

Be sure to stay tuned to our website and Facebook page for more detailed updates on this event.

Advertorial Edited by Craig White (craig@groovekorea.com)

Your hair is your barometer Story by Soyeon Kim

he skin on your scalp, like other parts of your body, regularly renews itself while the old skin falls away. Due to the fact that the scalp is where nutrients are delivered to your hair follicles, it affects your hairstyle greatly. While taking care of damaged hair is one way to keep your waves looking healthy, taking care of your scalp will ensure strong hair from the follicle up. Here’s how you can do it.

Your scalp is also your skin

Even though you may wear ample makeup and dress nicely, if you do not give a similar amount of attention to your hair, you will be neglecting a vital part of your appearance. Having a glowing complexion will only get you so far if your hair has split ends. Thick and healthy hair with a radiating shine is as important as having astounding skin. Your scalp loses skin just like other parts of your body. The sweat and oil (sebum) from your scalp create a natural, moist and protective coating to shield the skin on your head, allowing hydration and nutrition to be supplied for better growth. It isn’t surprising, then, that the skin on our scalp should be cared for just like the skin on our face; the only difference, however, is the length and thickness of the hair. It’s easy to overlook the importance of the hidden skin on your head, but since the scalp plays an important role in the strength of your hair, it must be cared for in order to keep your locks happy and healthy.

Dry hair but oily scalp?

Your hair grows from holes in your skin called pores. The hair multiplies and grows rapidly through cell division. Hair that grows from pores near the oil-producing sebaceous glands becomes shiny due to the sebum from those pores. But the closer you get to the ends of the strands, the hair grows drier, and once you reach the outermost layer, the cuticle is easily broken by physical irritation and daily wear. If your scalp becomes too dry and you start giving off dandruff, and there is too much sebum, your hair is bound to get tangled. However, having proper hair care helps control the sebum and can prevent the ends from splitting so easily. Dr. Lee Moon Won is known as Korea’s best scalp and hair disorder specialist in Oriental medicine. At his clinic, he provides a specialized scalp medical care program for Koreans and for-

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All stories are culled with consent from Korea JoongAng Daily’s website and edited by Groove Korea for length and clarity. The opinions expressed here do not necessarily represent those of Groove Korea. — Ed.

N at i o na l

N e w s

with

April 2014 / www.koreajoongangdaily.com

Korean-Chinese man in spy case attempts suicide A

61-year-old Korean-Chinese man, who supposedly cooperated with the country’s top spy agency in an espionage case against a civil servant, attempted suicide after being investigated earlier that day, prosecutors said. The man, a North Korean defector surnamed Kim, reportedly sent a text message to the prosecutors implying he would commit suicide. “I am so sorry, and take care. I am sending this because I may not be seeing you again,” the message read. After the prosecutors dispatched personnel to locate him, they found Kim several hours later in a motel room. He was unconscious and bleeding by the bed, apparently having sliced his neck with a small knife. Kim was taken to the hospital and was in the intensive care unit after having had surgery. A four-page suicide note was found at the scene, according to prosecutors, but they refused to disclose the details. Authorities also

found Korean words, possibly denouncing the report by his younger sister, who moved from National Intelligence Service, scrawled across China to Korea in 2012. Some involved in the case argued that Kim’s the wall in blood, though the police asked motel employees to remove it after an on-site in- suicide attempt is suspicious and could imply guilt. vestigation. According to authorities, Kim acquired In the espionage case, prosecutors have been working on trying to uncover how the Chinese nationality, an exceptional feat for a official immigration records of another North North Korean defector, who the Chinese govKorean defector, who was working as a civil ernment usually regard as illegal immigrants. servant in South Korea, were manipulated. Kim also worked with the NIS, also atypical. “People usually cut their wrists out of pain or Those records were submitted to the court when the defector, Yu Wu-seong, 34, was be- terror, but rarely in their neck,” said a criminal ing tried over allegations of espionage, though psychology expert who requested anonymity. “The possibility remains that the person may they were later found to have been forged. Kim is known to have provided the NIS with have tried to send a message or that it was one of three falsified documents, and the pros- done by someone else.” Meanwhile, prosecutors stated they would ecution was looking into whether Kim was involved in the actual forgery, as well as whether continue their probe. “Nothing changes even when such variables happen,” said Yun the NIS was aware of the falsification. In January 2013, the prosecution indicted Yu Gab-geun, a prosecutor. “We’ll keep working for spying on behalf of North Korea, a viola- to find out what really happened.” tion of the National Security Law, based on a

Police pursue suspect in killing of wealthy man

olice in Seoul said that they were pursuing a suspect who allegedly killed a 67-yearold man known to have owned assets worth hundreds of billions of won, adding that they had acquired video footage captured by a CCTV camera in the office building where the victim was murdered that shows the suspect’s face. According to a police statement earlier this week, the victim, surnamed Song, was stabbed dozens of times all over his body. He was discovered by his wife after she came to the building to look for him when he didn’t return home at his usual time. The video clip shows a masked suspect following the victim into the building, which Song owned and managed, where the two men had a physical altercation, a police officer said. During the scuffle, the suspect apparently took off his mask.

30 www.groovekorea.com / April 2014

Song reportedly owned the building in which his body was found, in addition to a 20-story hotel, a wedding hall and an apartment complex. He is also the president of a real estate brokerage firm. Authorities said the victim previously managed properties for a distant relative, a Korean-Japanese man surnamed Lee. With money earned in Japan, Lee bought a 9,900-square-meter property and three buildings in Jongno and Gangseo districts, in the central and western parts of Seoul, respectively. He founded the brokerage firm in 1997. Since 1995, Song had been managing Lee’s properties and assets in Korea. When Lee died in 2002, Song appropriated the firm’s stamp, forging a contract that approved the sale of Lee’s assets — worth about 100 billion won ($93 million) — for just 2 billion won.

Shortly after, Song was investigated on allegations of fraud and forgery after the prosecution was notified by Lee’s tenants. During the probe, Lee’s children testified that they had never granted the rights to sell their father’s assets to him. The legal dispute played out for more than a decade, and Song was eventually acquitted of the fraud charges. He was sentenced to eight months in prison with two years probation after being found guilty of forgery. “When I heard the ruling, my blood boiled,” a plaintiff in the case said of the verdict. Authorities are currently trying to find the suspect caught on tape. They believe Song may have been killed by someone who held a grudge against him, particularly in light of the legal dispute over the assets he had attained from Lee.

Korea’s highly obese rate doubles in 15 years

n obese 27-year-old man surnamed Min says he struggles with the social stigma and disadvantages associated with being overweight. “Many people point at me and talk behind my back, saying, ‘What’s the point of living like that?’ Younger children approach me and spit out words like ‘pig’?” said Min, who is 188 centimeters tall and weighs 159 kilograms. The burden makes him stay at home most of the time. Min also believes that his heavy weight has hurt his ability to find a job. “I usually pass the first session of the hiring process, where employers only examine my resume and documents,” he said. “But whenever I had a face-to-face job interview, I couldn’t make it through.” One prospective employer even said, straight out, that the main reason Min was not getting the job was because of his size.

But Min’s problem is becoming more com- ers would hysterically tell me ‘Watch out’ or mon, as obesity rates have been rising over ‘Don’t push things over,’” she said. “It was rethe past 15 years and the extreme obesity rate ally embarrassing, and I thought it’d be better has more than doubled, according to a study to quit the job.” With the increasing prevalence of obesity, released by the Ministry of Health and Welfare. According to the ministry’s report, the num- experts are beginning to examine the social ber of obese adults in Korea reached 32.4 per- and economic factors linked with weight more closely. They have found that people with low cent in 2012, up from 26 percent in 1998. For “highly obese” adults, the numbers are income levels have higher obesity rates. Obesity rates for people in the bottom inmore stark: 5 percent of adults last year, up come bracket stood at 34.3 percent in the from 2.3 percent in 1998. In Korea, people are categorized as obese 2012 data, whereas the figure for those in when their body mass index tops 25. Those higher-than-average income baskets was 29.5 percent. higher than 30 are considered “highly obese.” Lee, 34, recently quit her job as a care work- “The reason poorer people are more prone to er at a nursing center. At 168 cm tall and obesity is that they are more likely to eat junk weighing 113 kg, she says that her colleagues food,” said Oh Sang-woo, a doctor at Dongguk were hostile toward her mainly because she University Hospital in Ilsan, Gyeonggi. “It’s a vicious cycle. They usually don’t have enough was overweight. “If I moved in a narrow aisle, my cowork- time or money to work out.”

Soldiers freer in modern military

n a freezing February day, the soldiers in the artillery force of the Yeowugogae Battalion, First Division, returned to their base in Paju, Gyeonggi Province, having just completed their cold-weather exercises. Flushed from the chill and worn out after training with 81 mm mortars, they began to unload their gear in the barracks, the room steaming up from the sweat. Once the soldiers’ regular duty hours ended at 5:30 p.m, they were visited by a JoongAng Ilbo reporter, who could immediately see the ways in which Korean military life has changed in the past few years. Nowadays, more freedoms are afforded to soldiers than ever before. Increasing importance is placed on personal care and grooming, the enlisted are divided and housed by rank, and the barracks have become increasingly digitized. It’s a shift away from what it used to be, when procedures were more rigid and there were noticeably less conveniences. “Don’t you know that knowing how to remove face paint is more important than wearing it?” said Cpl. Na Young-ho, wiping the green and brown streaks from his cheeks with cleansing tissues. “It’s harder to remove the residue from the paint that’s left on the skin if you start with facial cleanser.” In the privates’ room that evening, three soldiers were wearing face masks. The military’s Post Exchange, also known as PX, has reflected that trend, as demand for those products has increased among the enlisted. On many occasions, including on Feb. 18, face masks and moisturizers run out of stock. One of the bestsellers there, aside from food

and beverages, is a moisturizing lotion that boasts 1,600 milligrams of processed snail slime. When the soldiers gathered in the hallway later to shower, each of them carried a basket full of bath products. As they began to shower, a flowery scent permeated the hall. Dinner began promptly at 6 p.m. Yet the food tray of Pvt. Yoon Jin-woo was half-empty, perhaps too small for a 175-centimeter, 100-kilogram man who just came back from a day of military training. “I am on a diet,” Yoon said matter-of-factly, adding that he had posted the word “diet” on the wall of his room to remind him of his personal mission. He eats only half of what he used to before joining the Army, he said. But Yoon wasn’t the only one eating less than usual. A majority of the soldiers in the dining hall had small meals. The trend was widespread enough that, when reported to the Ministry of National Defense, the daily serving of rice was decreased from 570 grams to 400 grams. The barracks are also different — more technology-friendly. Soldiers watch music videos on television whenever they want, using IPTV replays. The distribution rate of digital TVs, including IPTVs, has surged, from 29.5 percent last year to 61.6 percent this year. The battalion is given an hour for self-improvement every night at 7:30 p.m., with each room of the barracks turning into a venue for a different subject — studying English or practicing music. “It is an hour every day, and we can put in more hours on the weekends,” said Cpl. Hong

Ji-won, who has been studying for the Test of English for International Communication. In another room, other soldiers were playing guitars, which they brought here from home. The men’s free time ends at 8:30 p.m., after which they must clean up their rooms. Roll call begins at 9:50 p.m., when the soldiers call it a day. At 10 p.m., it was lights out, and the barracks soon became silent as sleep crept in. For the reporter, who finished his military duty in 2002, life in the Army has taken a drastic turn. For privates to have free time — even to use face masks and hair care products — would be beyond the imagination of a man who finished his service just over a decade ago. None of the military staff members could exactly pinpoint when things started to change, but most of them agreed that it was probably around three years ago, when the rooms were assigned by rank. The number of barracks that adopted this measure increased from 726 in 2012 to 976 in 2013 — or from 42.5 percent to 57.1 percent. Many military officials have assessed the changes positively. “The notion of autonomy and responsibility is settling down,” said Lt. Jeong Min-ho, a platoon commander of the battalion. “Assigning rooms by rank decreased physical and verbal abuse by senior soldiers, which has led to fewer conflicts within the rooms. The forces also seem more focused since they’ve had enough rest.” Another platoon leader, Lt. Lee Yong-jun, chimed in: “When times change, sticking only to old customs won’t draw voluntary participation from the soldiers. This system may not be perfect, but we should seek a balance between training and their personal lives.” 31

INSIGHT Edited by Matthew Lamers (mattlamers@groovekorea.com)

The North Korea Column

Skiing to success in North Korea

It takes more than propaganda to breed Olympians Column by Christopher Green / Illustration by Wilfred Lee

he absence of North Korean representation at the 2014 Sochi Winter Olympics was in noticeable contrast to impressive successes registered by the country’s athletes in London 18 months earlier. Close observers may recall that “DPR. Korea,” as the North likes to be called, walked away with no fewer than six medals from the 2012 summer games, and that four of these were gold. This resulted in the country finishing 20th in the medal standings, something which, on a per capita income basis in particular, was no small feat. This stark imbalance in achievement could lead one to the conclusion that North Koreans must be rubbish at winter sports. Actually, this is far from the case. The reality is that North Korean athletes struggle to make an impact in events that have limited practical

application beyond the stadium wall, such as short-track speedskating, in which their South Korean brethren have a history of excellence. In other ways, however, they are ahead of the game. Many parts of eastern and northern North Korea are mountainous. This is one of many very good reasons why the Kim regime’s conception of “self-reliance in all things,” which Pyongyang likes to pass off as some kind of guiding state principle, is so absurd: There is not enough good agricultural land upon which to realize sustainable food production without outside help. However, it does mean that the country produces many a competent skier. This aptitude has never translated into Olympic medals, but that is because skiing in North Korea has more practical applications. A former resident of northern North Korea

ABOUT THE AUTHOR Christopher Green is the manager of international affairs for Daily NK, an online periodical reporting on North Korean affairs from Seoul. The opinions expressed here are the author’s and do not necessarily represent those of Groove Korea. For more information, visit dailynk.com.

32 www.groovekorea.com / April 2014

and now a department head with Daily NK, Ms. Kang used to ski all the time. Sometimes she was just having fun, but normally not; free time for adults has been in rather short supply in North Korea for a number of decades. Instead, Kang tends to reminisce about skiing as a good, and sometimes the only, way of getting up and down her local hills to gather wood. It doesn’t bring home the Olympic bacon, but most people aren’t too worried about that: Keeping fires burning is a more immediate concern. Other North Korean refugees, a disproportionate number of whom hail from hilly northern places predisposed to snowy winters, record more entertaining experiences. “Now on My Way to Meet You,” a weekly South Korean television show featuring female refugees discussing their lives, made brief

headlines back in June 2012 when fellow Ryanggang Province native Park Ye-joo described a variant on Kang’s wood gathering. The anecdote offered a refreshing insight into the entertaining side of childhood in North Korea. Effectively backcountry skiing, it was, she said, so much fun that a lot of children would be out on the hills every day of the winter. According to Kang, some local people in northern provinces are even adept at manufacturing their own skis. A simple but time-consuming process, it involves soaking and hewing tree trunks into skis and poles before simply lashing them to one’s shoes. It’s probably not what Kim Il-sung had in mind when he told people to take Juche to heart, but it gets the job done. “Self-reliance,” indeed! Such anecdotes show how sports intertwine with daily life in North Korea. But that shouldn’t be a surprise: Sports intertwine with life almost everywhere, and sporting achievements are subordinated to political goals all the time. In my own Seoul district of Dongdaemun-gu, a raft of street-side banners currently hail the victory of local two-time Olympic 500m gold medal-winning speedskater Lee Sang-hwa, at least one of which — “Congratulations to the Daughter of Dongdaemun, Lee Sang-hwa!” — was put up by the local branch of the opposition Democratic Party. In North Korea, of course, there is only one political game in town, the regime of Kim Jong-un. The value of sports is not lost on them, either; any and all sporting achievements are promoted as symbols of DPR Korea’s national might, as well as exemplifying the largesse of the leader. Nationalist and socialist regimes have long seen sports as a good way of symbolizing strength, perhaps because such shows of power are easier to achieve than actual economic and social development. This is why they have been high on the agenda in Pyongyang ever since those six medals at London 2012. There was a ticker-tape parade to welcome the victorious returning athletes, after which the country created its own State Sports Guidance Commission with considerable fanfare in November that year, and has since been energetically engaging with sporting themes on all levels. Indeed, my own research shows a significant uptick in the number of articles on sporting matters carried by the daily publication of the Korean Workers’ Party under Kim Jong-un when compared with the same period five, 10 and 15 years ago, an early indication of the perceived importance of sports to the Kim regime’s sustainability. As far as skiing is concerned, all propaganda roads lead to Masikryong, the pass in the North’s Gangwon Province where the Kim government swiftly constructed a new ski resort immediately after coming to power. Although an alcohol-fuelled Dennis Rodman was recently spotted riding a Ski-Doo there, as were, presumably somewhat more sober, members of the Moranbong Band, the television coverage of the construction and opening of the ski resort focused instead on the role of Kim Jong-un in driving the project forward at “Masikryong Speed,” offering guidance at every turn and generally parlaying one of the worst-kept secrets in the country (“He studied in Switzerland, you know!”) into propaganda grist to the mill of governing legitimacy. The only problem with sporting propaganda, of course, is that it takes a lot more than a bit of creative thinking on the part of the Party Propaganda and Agitation Department to have North Korea winning medals at the Winter Olympics, no matter how good the off-piste slopes of Ryanggang Province may be. Kim’s men had better start thinking about where to take their sporting story next, since the 2018 Winter Olympics will take place in the South, and it certainly wouldn’t do to get left behind.

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INSIGHT Edited by Matthew Lamers (mattlamers@groovekorea.com)

The Money column

The pension deals

Depending on your nationality, Korea’s retirement plan may work out for you Column by Paul Sharkie / Illustration by Michael Roy

t’s no secret that the National Pension Service has policies that give some nationalities a better deal than others when it comes to leaving Korea for good. Likewise, there is constant ambiguity in terms of who is required to pay into the system and who is not. Here we will take a look at how it’s set up, as well as the controversial lump-sum payment that is guaranteed to some but not to all.

National pension service With over 20 million contributors, the National Pension Service has grown to be one of the largest pension funds in the world. With a few exceptions, all residents in Korea (regardless of income and including foreign workers) aged 18 to 60 are covered and required to participate. There are several categories of insured people, but the one that’s likely most applicable to our readers is “workplace-based mandatorily insured persons.” This category covers people who — unlike the individually insured or self-employed — see contributions shared

between both themselves and their employer (4.5 percent each). It applies to anyone working at a business with one or more employees.

Exclusions Although coverage aims to include all workers, there are those who are not obligated to participate: 1) The national of any country that does not require Korean citizens to participate in its national pension scheme: Armenia, Bangladesh, Belarus, Cambodia, East Timor, Egypt, Ethiopia, Fiji, Georgia, Iran, Maldives, Myanmar, Nepal, Pakistan, Saudi Arabia, Singapore, Swaziland, Tonga and Vietnam 2) Foreigners who are not registered under the Immigration Act 3) Foreigners whose visa status falls under the following: Student (D-2), Industrial Training (D-3), General Training (D-4), Religion (D6), Visiting and Joining Family (F-3), Culture & Art (D-1) and Others (G-1) 4) People with a Social Security Agreement between their country and Korea that specifies exclusion

ABOUT THE AUTHOR Paul Sharkie is the Foreign Client Relationship Manager for Shinhan Bank’s Foreign Customer Department. Please visit Shinhan Expat Banking on Facebook for more information. The banking information provided in this column is based on Shinhan Bank policies and may not be applicable to all banks in Korea. — Ed.

34 www.groovekorea.com / April 2014

Where my child’s smile is concerned, I want the best. Any father would feel the same. Koreans and foreigners are treated equally under the NPS in that there is no discrimination in terms of the amount of benefits received; in fact, even if you are no longer living in Korea — yet still entitled — the NPS will remit your payments abroad. (Just keep in mind that although they take care of any remittance fees, you will be responsible for any receiving bank fees.) Koreans and foreigners are treated equally under the NPS in that there is no discrimination based on the amount of benefits received; in fact, even if you are no longer living in Korea — yet still entitled — the NPS will remit your payments abroad. (Just keep in mind that, although they take care of any remittance fees, you will be responsible for any receiving bank fees.) This all appears to be in order, however, unknown to many when they first arrive. There are distinctions made as to how and when you can receive your collective contributions.

Lump-sum refund A lump-sum refund (of all your and your employer’s contributions) is not paid to foreign workers upon departing Korea except under the following circumstances: 1) When your home country grants a lump-sum refund to Koreans (Please see the NPS website for the entire list of countries with this operation.) 2) When your home country has an existing social security agreement with Korea specifically providing for a lump-sum refund. As of November 2013, this applies to Australia, Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Canada, Czech Republic, France, Germany, Hungary, Poland, Romania, Slovakia and the U.S. 3) Those on E-8 (Employment for Training), E-9 (Nonprofessional Employment) or H-2 (Visiting Employment) visas For those lucky individuals entitled to claim, there are details of the application procedure (including forms) on the NPS website. However, providing evidence that you are leaving or have left will allow you to claim before you go, whether it happens at the airport or after you have departed.

No lump sum — A U.K. example Shocked and disgruntled would be two appropriate words to describe the average Brit arriving here to receive the most disturbing news: Not only do they (including myself) not get a lump sum, but one has to wait until retirement age to start receiving payments. In theory, it means Brits are being treated equally with Korean nationals, but the practical side reveals that this means 10 years of contributions must be made in Korea in order to be entitled to receive them. For those Brits who have already been here a decade or plan to stay that long, this isn’t a problem. But should one leave before and never return, the present situation means you will lose out on all your contributions! Not to worry, though; you can always come back and add later in life, since your ARC number will never change. For information on other nations, please visit the NPS website on www.nps.or.kr or — more conveniently — visit www.nps.or.kr/ jsppage/english/contact/telephone.jsp for a list of the appropriate contact details for your region. TIP Be sure to ask how many years of contributions have been made and from which employers. It is not unheard of for unscrupulous employers (usually hagwons) to skip contributing on your behalf.

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FOOD & DRINK Edited by Josh Foreman (joshforeman@groovekorea.com)

Groove gives props to five of

36 www.groovekorea.com / April 2014

Story and Photos by Josh Foreman

The rise of the sandwich E

ach time Paris Baguette makes a sand- there are great sandwicheries in Seoul. wich, John Montagu’s corpse howls “Over the past couple of years a few more from its grave. He is the man credited restaurants have opened with sandwiches as with inventing the sandwich, and Paris their main concept,” said Wahid Naciri, owner Baguette shits upon his memory. Though Paris of Casablanca Sandwicherie in Haebangcheon. Baguette is not alone in its offense, it is repre- “From classic sandwiches to signature sandsentative of the norm, and sandwich aficiona- wiches, restaurateurs in the business now are dos in Korea have noticed. As summed up by working very hard at taking the sandwich thing the Seoul Sandwich Lovers’ Facebook page: to the next level.” “Korea is where sandwich craft comes to die.” Naciri compares the sandwich boom in Seoul To understand the depth of the problem, it’s to the influx of craft beer in the expat communinecessary to sit and stare at a bad Korean ty in recent years. “I’m very proud of the people sandwich, thinking about each part. Take the I know near and far in the beer industry,” he Paris Baguette “Lunch Sandwich,” for example. said. “Without them we’d still be in the dark. It costs 5,000 won and comes quartered and Flip the image and that’s what’s starting to haplaid to rest in a clear, plastic coffin. The stench pen to sandwich culture in Korea.” of sweet pickle and processed cheese escapes This month, Groove Korea shows you five of as you exhume it from its covering. There it sits, the trendsetters, spread across five different cross-sectioned, showing you what awaits: neighborhoods. These restaurants all bring meager layers of lettuce, tomato, unpeeled something special to the table: Their sandwichcucumber, bell pepper, white cheese goo and es are original, they use fresh ingredients, they “ham.” The Lunch Sandwich is not only an af- are prepared and presented lovingly and they’re front to Montagu, but to cucumbers as well. made to order. These restaurants understand Let me explain. The sandwich features cu- that texture is an important part of constructing cumbers two ways: some sliced lengthwise, a sandwich. They bake their own bread, or are skin-on, and others that have been pickled to using artisanal bread from bakeries in the city. oblivion. The skin-on cucumber is sliced too They are well seasoned, flavorful and complex. thick and the skin has the mouthfeel of one The sandwiches featured in this story range of those plastic rings you take off the top of a in style, but they’re all among the best you’ll 2-gallon milk jug back home. The pickles are find in Korea. We’ll take a look at a fried cod — as every expat here knows — mushy, sweet sandwich from a European-style bakery in and overpowering. They’re also the most no- Gyeongnidan, a chicken sandwich from a Moticeable smell and taste of the sandwich. The roccan restaurant in Haebangcheon, a thick slices of ham are only molecules thick, the let- club from a wildly popular café with locations tuce is too crunchy and the cheese is some sort across the city, an understated veggie sandof gooey, processed un-cheese. The bell pep- wich from a funky café in the Ewha Womans pers appear to be added for the sole purpose of University neighborhood and a gloriously hot, rendering the texture even more offensive. The messy cheesesteak from a hole-in-the-wall in sandwich’s bread has the quality of Life cereal the Children’s Grand Park neighborhood. We’ll that’s been soaked in milk and then left to dry show you other sandwiches from those places in a strange, flaky layer. as well. These sandwiches are all over Seoul, at Paris Seoul’s cottage sandwich industry is burBaguette and a thousand other bakeries and geoning right now due to expatriate support, cafés. At least the Lunch Sandwich is free of Naciri said. But he worries expat support might jam. not be enough to cement a sandwich culture in But before I get carried away, let’s remember Seoul. A change in local tastes is necessary, he that we’re not here to bash Korean sandwich- said, to support a real industry. es. Actually, quite the opposite: A handful of Visiting one of these five originals — and restaurants in the city are, like John Connor bringing a Korean friend along for a taste — is fighting an army of Terminators, leading a re- a good first step in ensuring that Seoul’s sandsistance. They are few and far between, but wich scene is here to stay.

t h e c i t y ’s s a n d w i c h p i o n e e r s

FOOD & DRINK Edited by Josh Foreman (joshforeman@groovekorea.com)

The Bakers Table Neighborhood Gyeongnidan Sandwich style European deli Signature sandwiches Tomato Mozzarella, The Fisherman A note scribbled on the wall of this small bakery is its mission statement: “All sorrows are less with bread.” Micha Richter, the German owner of the bakery, has packed many European goodies into his cozy space — wines, beer, salami, cheese, sauces, jam — but the focus here is most definitely on bread. He showcases his freshly baked wares on a big display in the middle of the restaurant. There are styles from all over Europe: focaccia, pita, English muffin, Ciabatta, Italian country sour and ensaimadas, to name a few. Richter uses the breads on the different sandwiches he sells from the bakery. “No doubt it’s the bread,” he says. “That’s our advantage here.” I tried two sandwiches at The Bakers Table: The Fisherman and the Tomato Mozzarella. The Fisherman is, as you guessed, a fish sandwich, and the only one featured in this story. Dressed with lettuce, tomato and onions, the sandwich comes on crusty French bread. The stars of the sandwich are thinly sliced pieces of fried cod, which is warm and crisp around the edges. There’s a variation in texture as you work your way from the outside of the fish to the inside, with edges that The Fisherman stay crispy and chewy while the inside remains soft and flaky. Richter seasons the is reminiscent of fish only with salt and pepper, and it’s this a New Orleans simple seasoning that allows the unique po’boy — crunchy cod flavor to shine. French bread, The Fisherman is reminiscent of a New simple dressings Orleans po’boy — crunchy French bread, simple dressings and tasty seafood in the and tasty seafood middle. Richter also prides himself on his in the middle. homemade sauces, and The Fisherman features two: a subtle cocktail sauce and a sweet cilantro jam. The Tomato Mozzarella sandwich has been on Bakers Table’s menus since it opened two years ago. Its thick white pieces of mozzarella and tomato anchor the sandwich, which is a model of simplicity. The mozzarella is soft, fluffy and fresh. The tomato adds acidity and juiciness. This sandwich also has two sauces: a pesto and one with a balsamic vinegar base. Again, it’s the bread that makes the sandwich. Richter’s Ciabatta is airy and chewy — a good compliment to the soft filling. The Bakers Table is small, with just seven tables indoors. Two of the bakery’s walls are glass, giving the restaurant a sunny feel. Sitting at a table listening to classical music, admiring the pile of crusty, hearty, grainy bread in front of you, you could almost be in Richter’s hometown of Köln. Almost.

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Getting there

Walk straight out of Noksapyeong Station, exit 2. Continue walking straight at the traffic lights. Turn right and cross over the street on the green footbridge. The Bakers Table is at the bottom of the footbridge on the other side. ☎ (070) 7717-3501

Casablanca Neighborhood Haebangchon Sandwich style Moroccan Signature sandwiches Moroccan Chicken, Spicy Shrimp

Getting there

Casablanca is located on Haebangchon’s main street, between the CU Mart and Phillies. To get to Haebangchon, walk out Noksapyeong Station, exit 2. Walk about 200 meters, veering left when you come to the traffic lights. Casablanca is another 200 meters or so on the left. ☎ (02) 797-8367

In the beginning, when God created Haebangcheon, the neighborhood was a formless void. Then God said, “Let there be Casablanca,” and there was Casablanca. Casablanca is every expat’s secret spot — the place you recommend when someone asks if you know of any good restaurants. They go, and then Casablanca becomes their secret spot, and so on. Why? Well, first, it’s because Casablanca has some seriously delicious, seriously different sandwiches. (I wrote in 2011 that Casablanca’s Moroccan Chicken sandwich is the best in the city — that is still true.) Second, it’s because Wahid Naciri, the face and proprietor of Casablanca, makes everyone who walks in feel special. Spend a few minutes in the restaurant on a weekday evening and you will see — he knows just about everyone who Like many of the walks in and by his shop, and waves sandwiches in this story, the Moroccan and calls out to all of them. Naciri, who runs the shop with his Chicken sandwich brother, Karim, brought to Seoul what combines taste and few others have — a really, truly differ- texture well: the ent sandwich. There are a few things crunch of the bread, about the Moroccan Chicken that set the firmness of the it apart from other sandwiches. First chicken breast, the and most important is the “maakouda,” softness and richness which can inadequately be described as of the maakouda, fried mashed potato balls. The maak- the tartness of the ouda is crisp and golden brown on the preserved lemon. outside, with the wonderful, soft texture of mashed potatoes on the inside. Second is the marinade that the pieces of chicken breast sit in before they are cooked. Naciri uses preserved lemon, that is, lemons that have been pickled in a mixture of salt and their own juices, to give the chicken a unique zest. The crunchy, toasted bread Naciri uses is from a Syrian bakery in Itaewon. The sandwich is also dressed with lettuce, tomato and mayonnaise. Like many of the sandwiches in this story, the Moroccan Chicken sandwich combines taste and texture well: the crunch of the bread, the firmness of the chicken breast, the softness and richness of the maakouda, the tartness of the preserved lemon. Casablanca has other sandwiches as well — one with lamb, one with egg. The other one I tried for this story is the Spicy Shrimp. It’s similar to the Moroccan Chicken, but instead of chicken breast, the sandwich is filled with spicy shrimp in a light red sauce. An HBC mainstay, the eating area recently got a facelift. The dining space is slightly larger, and Moroccan prints now hang on the wall under the light of star-shaped lamps. They’ve added staff too, but the Naciri brothers are still there every evening to greet their loyal patrons.

FOOD & DRINK Edited by Josh Foreman (joshforeman@groovekorea.com)

Café Mamas Neighborhood Apgujeong and 10 other locations across Seoul Sandwich style Pressed sandwiches Signature sandwiches Club, Tomato Mozzarella Panini If Casablanca is everyone’s secret, Café Mamas is the opposite. Google (or Naver) the café and you’ll find hundreds of customer reviews, countless blog posts in different languages and selfies of people eating in the posh sandwicherie. Café Mamas has blown up. Is all the buzz deserved? Yes. Café Mamas has managed to make itself appeal to both foreign and Korean clientele with a formula that’s clearly working. Their sandwiches are delicious, no doubt, even if they are a bit on the mild side. Whereas the other sandwich joints in this story wow you with bold, innovative flavors, Café Mamas has figured out how to make traditional sandwiches well. They’re full of oozy cheese, bacon, thick slices of tomato, turkey … They’re not only pleasing to the mouth but, like the restaurants themselves, to the eye as well. Whereas the other The gorgeously tall Club was the prettiest sandwich I tried for this story. It’s stacked nearly 3 inches tall, layer sandwich joints in this upon beautiful layer of goodness staring up at you as story wow you with bold, you prepare to eat it; Paris Baguette could learn a thing innovative flavors, Café or two. In the center of the towering sandwich are three Mamas has figured out slices of tomato and a thin slice of white bread. Again, how to make traditional Café Mamas isn’t breaking any ground with their simple toasted sandwich bread, but it works in the Club. At sandwiches well. the top of the sandwich is Romaine lettuce, perfectly cooked bacon — not fatty and floppy, like bacon in Korea too often is — and two thick slices of American cheese. At the bottom are pieces of chicken breast and more Romaine, followed by pickle and onion. Café Mamas has mastered the art of adding sweet pickle to a sandwich without ruining the whole thing. The slices of pickle and onion are ultra-thin, creating a pseudo relish of sorts. The result is a hint of sour sweetness, without the mushy texture or overpowering taste and smell. The most dominant flavors of the sandwich are the smoky bacon, the pickle and the rich processed cheese. The tomato and Romaine, by contrast, give it some much appreciated freshness to even things out. The other sandwich I tried at Café Mamas was the Tomato Mozzarella Panini. If the Club is simple, then the Tomato Mozzarella is super simple. Do you like gooey mozzarella cheese? Crunchy bread? Hot, juicy tomatoes? Then you will like Mama’s panini. This one’s all about the minimalism; there’s a little balsamic added for good measure, but the sandwich is still pretty much just melted cheese and tomatoes, which isn’t a bad thing. Look closely and you’ll notice that they’ve added squid ink to the bread to give it a black hue. It doesn’t add much to the sandwich in the way of flavor, though they score points for making it a little more interesting visually. Café Mamas is a symbol of the hipification of Seoul, but there’s substance here along with the style.

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Getting there

Café Mamas Apgujeong is located in the Gourmet 494 food court/shopping center. To get there, go to Apgujeongrodeo Station. The station exits to Gourmet 494. ☎ (02) 712-1250

FOOD & DRINK Edited by Josh Foreman (joshforeman@groovekorea.com)

Lord Sandwich Neighborhood Ewha Womans University Sandwich style European deli Signature sandwiches Mushroom, Salami It’s worth visiting this eccentric café solely to admire the wonderfully odd design of the building and the wall-size portraits of European royalty that decorate it. Imagine a series of concrete boxes of different sizes, dissected and glued together with strips of glass. Lord Sandwich has the feel of a library or museum — classical piano music plays inside and people eat under the gaze of large drawings of John, Duke of Marlboro; George, Prince of Denmark and Queen Anne. It’s an added bonus that the sandwiches they serve are flavorful, refined and different from all the others in this story. A statue of Darth Vader stands in the upstairs of the restaurant holding a printed sign: “Eat your vegetable!” The chefs at Lord Sandwich obviously value an element that other sandwicheries sometimes add as an afterthought: the vegetables. The innocuously named Mushroom Sandwich is a showcase of everything a vegetable-focused sandwich can be. The first thing you’ll notice when it arrives is its pillowy, flour-dusted Ciabatta bread. The soft bread envelops an assortment of well-prepared veggies: grilled eggplant, wilted spinach, zucchini and chunky mushrooms. BalIt’s easy to get samic vinegar and basil mayo add acidity, focused on meat- complexity and richness. The veggies based sandwiches are all cooked but firm, textured but not and forget how unpleasantly crunchy. It’s easy to get foflavorful properly cused on meat-based sandwiches and seasoned and forget how flavorful properly seasoned and prepared veggies can be. prepared veggies Many of the sandwiches I tried for this can be. story forwent the traditional cured meats of European deli sandwiches in favor of uncured meats such as steak, chicken breast and fish. Lord Sandwich’s Salami Sandwich shows just how good a sandwich with traditionally cured meat can be. Their salami is thick-cut and chewy, and adds a salty spiciness to the sandwich. They eschew lettuce on the sandwich for a layer of peppery sprouts — yet another sign that Lord Sandwich is contemplating the construction of their sandwiches rather than just going with the norm. Its toppings are rounded out with tomato, onion and a garlicky mayonnaise, and everything comes on the same soft, floury Ciabatta as the Mushroom Sandwich. Lord Sandwich is tucked away in a small neighborhood near the back entrance of Ewha Womans University. It’s hard to find, but your reward will be eating fresh, creative sandwiches in one of the most unique buildings in Seoul.

42 www.groovekorea.com / April 2014

Getting there

As mentioned, the shop is somewhat tricky to locate. To get there, walk out Ewha Womans University Station, exit 3. Walk straight until you get to the campus of the university. Continue walking through the campus until you get to the back gate. Cross the busy street at the back gate, then walk right. Take a left at the ssamgyetang restaurant. Lord Sandwich is on the right. ☎ (02) 363-4554

Michelle American Sandwiches Neighborhood Children’s Grand Park Sandwich style Philly cheesesteak Signature sandwiches The Original, The Professor Chang I asked Michael Lee, the owner of Michelle American Sandwiches, why he chose to open a Philly cheesesteak restaurant in Seoul. “If you taste it, you will know everything,” he says. I tasted it, and now I know. The 10 years Lee spent living in and around Boston are written all over his sandwiches. They’re massive — as big as any sandwich I’ve ever seen — and filled with more steak than seems possible for one order. As I was watching him cook the steak, onions and bell peppers for The Original, I had to wonder: Can you sell a sandwich this substantial, full of this much steak, for 9,000 won and still turn a profit? A sandwich at Michelle begins its jour- Michelle American ney from griddle to plate when Lee slips Sandwiches is a pieces of frozen American beef onto hole-in-the-wall. the large griddle in the center of his And in true holerestaurant. The beef, red-and-white- in-the-wall fashion, marbled, sizzles and begins to thaw. He the restaurant’s then adds onions and bell peppers. Afmismatched wallpaper, ter cooking for a few minutes he begins chintzy furniture to chop and mix the ingredients togethand computer er with his big spatula, eventually piling printout menus belie them up and adding cheese — Swiss, American or Provolone — to the top. the quality of the There the piles sit as the steak browns gloriously American on the bottom and the cheese melts on sandwiches on offer.

Getting there

Walk out Children’s Grand Park, exit 3. Take the first right, then second left. You will come to a three-way intersection; Michelle is on your right. ☎ (02) 3437-0700

top. The Original is a no-nonsense sandwich. It’s full of steak, green peppers, onions, provolone, salt, pepper and nothing else. There’s no sauce — the fat from the steak and the moisture from the onions and bell peppers is enough to keep the sandwich moist and juicy. Lee said he doesn’t add sauce to the Original because it would overpower the subtle taste of the Provolone. The Professor Chang — named by one of his customers, a professor at Konkuk University — has the same steak, but with barbecue sauce, American cheese, lettuce, tomatoes and jalapenos added. It’s equally delicious, with a bit more zip from the barbecue sauce and heat from the jalapenos. And I hate to say it, but the American cheese adds a comforting richness to the sandwich. In case it isn’t already obvious, Michelle American Sandwiches is a hole-in-the-wall. And in true hole-in-the-wall fashion, the restaurant’s mismatched wallpaper, chintzy furniture and computer printout menus belie the quality of the gloriously American sandwiches on offer. It’s clear that Lee’s focus is fully on the product.

FOOD & DRINK Edited by Josh Foreman (joshforeman@groovekorea.com)

PLANT serves innovative vegan and vegetarian fare to Seoulites

A vegan leader branches out Story by Shelley DeWees Photos by Shelley DeWees, Mipa Lee and Yona Koh

hances are, if you’ve ever visited High Street Market, you already know the illustrious Mipa Lee. She’s most widely known as the brains and baker behind Alien’s Day Out, Seoul’s lead provisioner of sugary-sweet confections made without eggs, butter or milk. In short, she’s responsible for making Alien’s Day Out — both the blog and bakeshop — synonymous with vegan indulgence. For anyone walking the egg- and dairy-free trail in Seoul, Mipa’s a mammoth. To add to her list of professional accomplishments, she’s now also the purveyor of PLANT, a studio/restaurant that’s been in the making for years. Born in Busan to missionary parents, her history is “a little bit muddled,” she says with a grin. She spent most of her childhood growing up in West Africa, both in Ghana and Cote d’Ivoire, eating fried plantains, red-red and fufu, a traditional African concoction made of boiled and pounded cassava or yams. “I haven’t visited Ghana for a few years and I’m dying to go back. I miss the food so much. Filling, fatty, sticky, spicy ... it’s so delicious.” Mipa left Ghana for the U.S., where she enrolled in a studio art program at a small school in Pennsylvania. She returned to Korea in 2006, all the while wrestling with the philosophy behind her consumption of meat. She changed

44 www.groovekorea.com / April 2014

her ways. “After a few years as a vegetarian, I made the full switch to veganism in 2008 and haven’t looked back since,” she said. “Since I was in Korea, I thought it would be interesting to share my experiences. Back then, the movement was still pretty new, so I started blogging.” And that she did. She started Alien’s Day Out in April 2009. Its humble beginnings involved baking, baking some more, blogging about it and then repeating the process. As her vegan baking abilities developed, so did her blog’s following. Soon, people began emailing about where they could taste her creations, and she saw an opportunity to start selling. “It took more than a year to get off the ground, but after the initial stages of development were over, I had to quit my job just to make time for all the baking.” She peddled her goodies to High Street Market and to Botton, a cute little coffee shop in the Noksapyeong neighborhood. She styled her own packaging, and completely took over the vegan baked goods market in Seoul without even realizing what had happened. “One day I suddenly saw ... there’s no way I can keep doing this out of my house!” She explains all this while wrapped in a flour-stained apron and pink T-shirt, tucked behind a table in what has be-

It’s a small space, homegrown and unpretentious, covered in art and trinkets and darling paper pamphlets that all illustrate one thing: Mipa lives here. come the solution to her problem — PLANT. It’s a small space, homegrown and unpretentious, covered in art and trinkets and darling paper pamphlets that all illustrate one thing: Mipa lives here. She’s got all her favorite goodies spread out for sale — her cookies and biscotti and her gorgeous cinnamon peach cake — but she’s also got a whole host of new things bouncing around the kitchen, including her very cute and very energetic business partner, Yona Koh. Together they offer two lunch specials each day, including one totally vegan option and another that can be cheesed or egged if you prefer. They also sell a small selection of beverages like coffee, chai tea and spicy ginger ale. Weekly lunch menus are lovingly created in advance to allow time for testing, which also allows for a careful consideration of corresponding dessert selections for optimal vegan joy. Ah, yes, dessert. That’s what’s on my mind as I ham it up with Mipa, and she takes the words right out of my mouth: “Here. You can taste this,” she says, passing over a towering slice of red velvet cake and a glass of cool water, the perfect accoutrement for a sunny morning. She smiles, we laugh, I take a quinoa cookie for the road and say goodbye until our next meeting, one that I know will need to come sooner, not later. PLANT is the new face of vegan in Seoul. Go say hi, soak up the goodies and take a gander at Mipa’s vision. You won’t be left wanting.

Getting there

Walk out Itaewon Station, exit 4. Walk straight down the street for about three minutes until the Converse store on your left. Turn left down the narrow staircase and down the alley, walk past Loft on your right and a pasta restaurant on your left. Continue two blocks down until you see the black PLANT sign under a tree. PLANT is just around the corner, on your right.

FOOD & DRINK Edited by Josh Foreman (joshforeman@groovekorea.com)

W ee

Seoul Veggie Kitchen

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A foolproof dish for the novice or veteran Letting it sit undisturbed in the hot pan will crisp things up while the moisture cooks out, creating a fabulous, fluffyfried dinner with a sweet, syrupy soy sauce coating. Deeeeelish.

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ndlessly adaptable and different every time, fried rice is one of those completely uncomplicated, non-revolutionary recipes that even the most greenhorn chef can try and totally rock. There are no cooking times, no real measurements, no tricky techniques — it’s literally rice ‘n stuff stirred together. You can do it old school, fridge-dump style where everything but the kitchen sink (and that bottle of ketchup) goes into the pan, or you can go fancy and pick a defining, statement-making ingredient for a classier meal: Lotus root rounds, eggs or tofu, peas, bok choy or fiery fried garlic would all do nicely. Depending on how you’re feeling and whom you’re cooking for, keep the cost down and the options open. Fried rice is an exercise in improvisation with many angles of attack, and it speaks differently to all of us, just like jazz. Jam on, friends.

About the writer: Shelley DeWees worked as a vegan chef for a Buddhist monastery before moving to Seoul. She is a columnist for Groove Korea. Her opinions do not neccesarily reflect those of the magazine. See her website, www.seoulveggiekitchen.com. — Ed.

46 www.groovekorea.com / April 2014

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Egg and broccoli fried rice The urge to futz with things runs deep in all would-be chefs as we stand at the stove (“I gotta stir or else it’ll burn!”), but perfect fried rice calls for a reevaluation of this tactic, or rather, a full-on denial of it: Resist the urge to stir the rice while it fries. Letting it sit undisturbed in the hot pan will crisp things up while the moisture cooks out, creating a fabulous, fluffy-fried dinner with a sweet, syrupy soy sauce coating. Deeeeelish. Four full rounds of stir-and-sit will happen here, so don’t be weirded out. Just get ready for fried rice. Ingredients • 2 handfuls fresh broccoli florets • 3 eggs • 2-3 tbsp canola oil • 1 onion, diced • 3 cups brown rice, cooked • 2-3 tbsp soy sauce • 3 garlic stems, thinly sliced • salt and pepper

Set a big mixing bowl on the counter. You’ll need it soon. Then, in a small saucepan with a lid, bring an inch of water to boil. Add the broccoli florets and cook for three minutes, just until the broccoli begins to soften, before draining off the water and replacing the lid. Put something heavy on top to keep the steam from escaping (an upturned coffee cup does the trick), then set the pot aside while you prepare the rest of the ingredients. Dig out your biggest nonstick skillet and set it over a medium flame to preheat for two minutes. If your pan is worn, add a teeny bit of oil and swirl it around — just enough to keep the eggs from sticking — but if you’re responsible with your pan upkeep and have a good one, skip the oil and save yourself from accidentally greasy eggs (ew). Crack the eggs directly into the pan and stir ‘em around with a wooden spatula, adding a few pinches of salt and pepper as you scramble. When the eggs reach your desired level of doneness, dump them in the big bowl you set out earlier. Return the skillet to the flame, add the oil and drop in the onions (there should be a wicked sizzle). Cook for two minutes, until the onions start to brown, then carefully drop in the rice and stir to incorporate. Using the back of a wooden spoon or spatula, pat the rice into an even layer across the bottom of the pan and let it sit, undisturbed, for two minutes. Then, without stirring, sprinkle the soy sauce across the rice and let it cook, again, for another two minutes. After four full minutes of frying, grab your spatula and stir, making sure you scrape the now-perfectly-cooked rice and onions off the bottom (you may need to lower the flame if things are starting to burn). Pat the mixture out evenly once more and let it sit, again, for two minutes. Then stir. Just like before. Add the broccoli and eggs to the skillet, stir, then go for one more round of pat-and-sit. Two minutes. Dump the fried rice into the waiting bowl and garnish with garlic stems, then serve.

Destinations Edited by Josh Foreman (joshforeman@groovekorea.com)

48 www.groovekorea.com / April 2014

Story and Photos by Christine Pickering

The Ghosts of

Seoul Searching for spirits in a city with a long and gruesome history

n 1866, as a French fleet came down the Han River in preparation for an invasion, thousands of Korean Catholics were gathered by the Daewongun (a Joseon Dynasty regent to the king) and mercilessly decapitated. After the brutal execution, it is said that he rolled their heads down into the river below to cleanse it of foreigners. He was determined for Korea to follow an isolationist policy and set out to purge the country of all foreign elements, including the Catholic religion. The site of the massacre, Jeoldusan, which translates to “Cut Head Mountain,” stands near what is now the Yanghwajin Foreigners’ Cemetery. Foreign residents in Seoul were allocated this site for a cemetery in 1890, after years of difficulty in obtaining appropriate burial places. However, some speculate that this land was only offered to the expat community because it was considered to be haunted; it was believed that the ghosts of those who were murdered still roamed the area, unable to rest after their wrongful execution. Seoul is certainly not the only city in which gruesome murders have taken place; most large cities with a long history have had their share of cruel tyrants, war-mongering generals and violent criminals. That being said, most history aficionados will find Seoul a veritable treasure trove of fascinating and gory incidents: familial betrayal, assassination plots and espionage. Because of this, Seoul also has a high number of intriguing accounts revolving around ghosts — especially those of a vengeful and violent nature. It is not surprising, then, that since the Joseon Dynasty, both Koreans and expatriates living in Seoul have reported personal experiences with the supernatural. Ghosts are widespread in Korean pop culture as well, appearing in horror films, reality TV shows and dramas. Recently, popular webtoons depicting the frightening tales of the Bongcheon-dong ghost and the Oksu Station ghost have become Internet sensations.

Destinations Edited by Josh Foreman (joshforeman@groovekorea.com)

Joe McPherson, the founder of ZenKimchi Korean Food Journal, runs Seoul’s only ghost tour. On the Dark Side of Seoul Tour, participants are taken on a three-hour walk through Seoul’s darkest alleyways and historical sites. Instead of the more sanitized version of history found in tourist brochures, McPherson’s tour offers an in-depth look at the massacres, executions and murders that have occurred in Seoul’s past. Participants also visit supposedly haunted places around Seoul and learn the history that gave rise to these ghost stories. A self-confessed fan of dark-themed tours and a good ghost story, McPherson notes, “A lot of people come to Korea with little knowledge or appreciation of Korea’s history. ... The major historical sites don’t help at all, preferring to give nerdy statistics on the square meterage of a building rather than the stories that actually make it interesting.” For him, the stories of Seoul’s bloody past and its supernatural inhabitants are what give the city character, and learning about this history adds “another layer of depth in understanding and appreciating where this city has come from and what it has gone through.” Glen Hempstock, a Canadian tourist visiting Seoul for a week, attended one of the tours on a cloudless, chilly November night. He, like McPherson, also believes that learning about a city’s history — both the good and the bad — is necessary for a better understanding of the place in which you are traveling or living. “For expats,” he says, “I think it could help (them) to learn about and adapt to local superstitions and lore. … For expats and locals alike, I think it offers context to what is now a very modern, bustling city; seeing where the city … came from can really make them appreciate its modern form.”

Two different attendees — who went on separate tours and didn’t know each other — claimed that the ghost of a little girl was following them for the first half of the tour. In addition to enhancing one’s historical knowledge, the ghost stories of a particular country can give outsiders some cultural insight. In most Western cultures, for example, ghosts have tended to be male — deceased knights, spirits of male ancestors — whereas in Korea, the most powerful ghosts are female. This can be seen most clearly in Korean cinema, as almost all Korean horror films dealing with the supernatural feature female monsters, ghost women or the spirits of dead

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schoolgirls. One reason for this is that women are supposedly the strongest holders of “han,” a Korean concept roughly translating to anger, disillusionment or a feeling of resentment over past injustices. A popular Korean ghost exhibiting han is the “cheonyeo gwishin,” or virgin girl ghost, who is often depicted wearing a “sobok” (white traditional mourning clothes). Because she has died young and without having experienced the pleasures of marriage or having children, it is impossible for her to leave the earthly world. So, her spirit remains, forever haunting the living. One of the first Westerners to recount an experience with the supernatural was George Heber Jones, an American missionary who arrived on the peninsula in 1887. He believed that Korea was the most haunted place in the world, with spirits “haunt(ing) every umbrageous tree, shady ravine, spring and mountain crest.” While this belief in ghosts has certainly waned since the Joseon Dynasty, it does still exist, and reports of hauntings and ghost sightings continue to this day. Indeed, McPherson states that his tour has attracted several ghost enthusiasts, as well as people claiming to be sensitive to paranormal energies. Two different attendees — who

went on separate tours and didn’t know each other — claimed that the ghost of a little girl was following them for the first half of the tour. Within the last few years, ghost stories have even made their way into the Korean news. In 2005, a deeply troubled woman committed suicide in an airplane bathroom. After a series of frightening and inexplicable events that occurred on the plane over the next few months, and after several unsuccessful attempts to appease the spirit of the ghost, the crew members claimed that the plane was haunted and refused to fly on it again. In another incident, a politician claimed in 2008 that he was being violated by female ghosts near the National Assembly building. It was discovered that this building was located atop an old burial ground for palace women, and in order to protect the male National Assembly members from these vengeful spirits, an unseemly 65-ton phallic stone sculpture was constructed near the building. (It was removed the following year due to complaints by residents of the area.) Robert Neff, a Seoul-based historian and author of “Letters from Joseon” (2013), has written extensively about ghosts in Korea. Through his interviews with people of vary-

ing ages, ethnicities and occupations — taxi drivers, diplomats, business owners — he has heard countless anecdotes related to the paranormal. “I knew (a) member of the diplomatic corps,” he says. “She and her husband told me that while they were in their kitchen, a large jar lifted up and flew across the room and smashed into the wall. They were convinced they had a ghost.” Neff notes that most may be loath to admit a belief in ghosts at first — believing is seen as an embarrassment and marks people as being out of touch with Korea’s enlightened, high-tech society. Eventually, however, his interviewees open up, especially if the question is posed seriously and without judgment. Although belief in the supernatural is lessening — “with modernization, ghosts are disappearing” — it still exists in some form, and it is a way to explain the unknown. According to Neff, “A lot of the original ghost stories, they stem from not knowing. You hear a whistling sound, and you’re in the next room. … Now we know that it’s probably the wind, but back then, we didn’t know what it was. It’s just the unknown, and we’re fascinated by something that we don’t know … I think anybody believes in a ghost when it’s dark and you’re alone and it’s scary outside. Everybody has some fear.” Although there are countless intriguing tales of the paranormal in Seoul’s history, not everyone is interested. On a previous ghost tour, McPherson recalls how angry a Korean attendee became. Accusing him of besmirching Korea’s name and of spreading false information to foreigners, the attendee was irate at the stories McPherson was sharing with the group. Despite having prepared for the tours for over a year, and having done an impressive amount of historical research, McPherson was asked by the attendee for his credentials and the sources of his information. Similarly, Pak Sang-gap, a young man working full-time while on break from his university studies, thinks that learning about the ghosts of Seoul isn’t important: “Personally, I think that it’s just the past, so it isn’t necessary to learn about that.” While he professes a belief in ghosts and has personally experienced mysterious occurrences that he cannot rationally explain, he thinks it is more beneficial to “just forget (the past) and (look toward) the future.” Regardless of people’s stated beliefs, ghosts still play an important role in Korea today, and not solely in pop culture. In the “jesa” ritual, a traditional memorial ceremony, food and drinks are offered to the spirits of ancestors on the

anniversary of their death. And every February on Ganghwa Island, which has been the site of numerous violent confrontations since the Joseon Dynasty, people offer sacrifices to the “mul gwishin” (water ghosts) to appease the spirits of those who have drowned and still lurk in the murky depths of the Han River. “There’s (still) some honoring of the ghosts, but they don’t address them as ghosts now,” Neff points out. “Spirits, ancestors … what’s the difference? Aren’t they (all) ghosts?” So, is Seoul haunted? Do vengeful ghost women stalk male National Assembly members? Do the victims of a wrongful execution wander the streets seeking justice? Does the spirit of a young woman haunt the airplane

where she met her untimely end? Whatever the answer, ghosts will likely retain a place in Korean folklore, pop culture and traditional practices for years to come.

More info Visit zenkimchi.com or www.koreadmc.co.kr/ journey-bug/holiday/the-dark-side-of-seoul-tour.

GrooveCast GrooveCast host Chance Dorland and writer Christine Pickering take a tour of ghostly Seoul. Check out the episode at groovekorea.com.

Destinations Edited by Shelley DeWees (shelley@groovekorea.com)

Fast-trackin

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One expat discovers his love for Korea, by way of chaotic Japan Story by Conrad Hughes / Photos by Carlos Greene, Maxime Guilbot, Toshihiro Oimatsu and Maxime Guilbot

ng in Tokyo

Destinations Edited by Shelley DeWees (shelley@groovekorea.com)

had anticipated that my brief, five-day sojourn through the Tokyo Basin, including Kawasaki and Yokohama, would be relaxing and culturally mind-expanding. But as I arrived back in South Gyeongsang Province and alighted from Korea’s public transportation system, I found myself surprisingly relieved to be home. How strange. Upon first reaching Narita Airport, I still had a journey ahead of me; Narita is exceptionally far from the main city of Tokyo. I inadvertently bought two tickets for the fast train, one of a dizzying array of options. Sixty bucks down already. After sprinting for the almost-empty train, I sank deep into my comfortable seat and stared at the ridiculous media advertising. I bought a bento box from the 7-Eleven on the way to my friend’s house and happily munched as I walked past old 400 cc motorcycles. These were all good things. My new friend showed me to his apartment, and I settled onto the futon while he slept at his computer (which apparently is normal). The

I felt the distance, spiritually, from the chaos of any Korean city. The refuse removal schedules were taped up in fresh laminate, undamaged by gum, and no one was shitting in the street. Buses even stopped for red lights. next day I woke up and took a walk around the strikingly juxtaposed community of Kawasaki, a beautiful city full of smoke-belching chimneys and industrial architecture next to a wide river with lush trees; zero litter, zero spit, zero bad feelings. I walked in the 92-degree heat — quite a novelty in October — without headphones for what felt like the first time in years. I enjoyed a perfect, heady, 35-decibel silence punctuated only by the concentrated sound of three girls feeding a plump stray cat some

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sliced almonds. I felt the distance, spiritually, from the chaos of any Korean city. The refuse removal schedules were taped up in fresh laminate, undamaged by gum, and no one was shitting in the street. Buses even stopped for red lights. Two hours later I arrived at a fertility temple, one of the few remaining in Japan. The venerable deity is a meter-long phallus called “kanamara-sama,” Japanese for “huge iron dick.” But to my surprise there was a kindergarten class on the same site, making the whole circumambience a little strange: A monk greeted me at the entrance, the woman at the sex shop waved and the collection of giant penises was attenuated by the laughter and play of children within visible range of dildos for sale. Japan is a little off-putting on the sex front, though, since it seems 80 percent of the women are either wearing some kind of 1800s Victorian-style ruffled dress or stockings and suspenders, or a combination thereof. After spending some time in Akihabara and Harajuku (both near Tokyo), it slowly came into my view, like a sexy Magic Eye puzzle. It’s quite endearing at first, but seeing the scores of men buying “idol” pictures of girls who couldn’t be any older than 7, I felt like the sex scene in Japan could use a reality check. The prevalence of these pictures made me think about the reasons people buy them, and why so many basement stores are selling semi-legal pornography in Japan. Maybe the plain, simple lack of inter-gender interaction is the problem. The trouble is seen in Korea, too, where younger generations interact with one another via embarrassed giggling, a natural barrier. But in Japan, women and men seem to have nothing to say to each other. It is widely said that men want younger girls because they can’t talk back. They are seen as submissive and hierarchically subordinate. Buying a picture of an “idol” to feel some kind of human connection is pretty terrifying if you stop and think about it for a spell. Then again, prostitution in Korea is blatant. No wonder most foreigners in both countries take a wide berth when it comes to the sexuality of their respective cultures. I’d come to Japan to see some friends in the

presence (or shadow) of the Yokohama Beer Festival, one of many traveling festivals, but especially cool for its Japanese beers and other lovely German and local craft brews. And other Japanese stuff: tasty fried things and no spit or trash. Vending machines, schoolgirls and the like. Yokohama is one step further down the Semi-Express line from Kawasaki and is entirely the city of the future, the closest thing to a perfect place I’d ever seen. Large, beautifully designed yet innocuously soulful modern buildings permeate the majority of the city. Piled next to grandiose red-brick warehouses, between which were the beer festival tents, and backing onto a harbor buttressed by parks, they had some appealing architectural design. I loved the beauty of Japan (and really enjoyed seeing some old friends), but not its effects. The rules and regulations kept everything beautiful, but also kept people separate, encouraged child pornography and produced apologist foreigners who were working hard to duly fit in. When I was informed that I shouldn’t wear a tank top out of the house on a 30-degree day for fear of intimidating people, I thought how ridiculous that would seem in Korea, a country where I feel pretty much free to do whatever I want because everyone else does. So now, when I see an old man hacking up spit in the street while he discards his litter with wanton abandon — something that would not happen in Japan — I feel entitled to carry my own personal idiosyncrasies with me. When I got back to Korea I breathed a sigh of relief and found myself for the weeks following enjoying the oddness that Korea exudes — finally out from under the thumb of the bullies. Like the fat kid who starts working out and gets a beautiful girlfriend, Korea doesn’t quite know how to deal with it. A country with a kind of downtrodden, gleeful pride in its recent success, but still unsure — that’s Korea. Japanese pride seems sullen and selfish in comparison. While the country is beautiful and impeccably micromanaged, it’s for that reason that I’m perfectly happy to call Korea my home. Long live chaos.

Destinations Edited by Elaine Ramirez (elaine@groovekorea.com)

At Pyongyang Restaurant,

itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not about the food

Nor th Korean restaurant in Phnom Penh is eerily enchanting Story and Photo by Anthony Levero

More info Locations like these seem to come and go, so try to confirm with a local before planning a visit. Pyongyang Restaurant in Phnom Penh C 400 Monivong Boulevard, Phnom Penh F 012-533-798 (English), 012-277-452 (Korean) Pyongyang Restaurant in Siem Reap C National Road, No. 6, Svay Dangkom commune, Siem Reap F 012-565-990 (Korean only)

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HNOM PENH, Cambodia — On Monivong Boulevard in downtown Phnom Penh, there is an unassuming, unadvertised-in-English restaurant simply labeled “Pyongyang.” A privacy fence covers the front of it, and you must walk into an awning-covered side alley to enter. Several large and harsh-looking men keep an eye on the door. Photography is strictly forbidden unless explicitly approved. It is one of several North Korean government-run restaurants scattered around Asia, with siblings in Bangkok, Pattaya, Vientiane, Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City, Jakarta and parts of China and Russia. The décor is gaudy: brightly lit, gold-colored drapes, polished floors, wood paneling and giant oil paintings of idyllic natural landscapes. The entire restaurant is situated in one large banquet room that might accommodate 300 diners. It is spacious enough to give the impression that it had been built for much larger crowds, but empty enough on this particular night to remind me in an eerie way that no such crowds were there. I was the only Westerner dining, with the remaining patrons being a mixture of Koreans and Chinese. One man in very decorated military attire occupied a table with some businessmen. I counted only three women among the diners. The most obvious difference between the menu here and one in Seoul was that dog was displayed prominently and unapologetically, and translated into several languages. It came both as a meat dish and in the more common form, a stew. Western ingredients like cheese and Spam, which have worked their way into South Korean cuisine, were absent. All of the other staples of Korean food were there: kimchi stew, fish and glass noodles. Naengmyeon looked to be a popular order among the other patrons. Many of the side dishes were also available as an entree. I had galbi stew and kimchi bokkeumbap, which I deemed fine but not outstanding in comparison to their South Korean equivalents. Tea was complimentary. Obviously no South Korean brands like Hite or OB beer were sold, but there was local Angkor beer and a soju that was apparently domestic to North Korea. I was caught off-guard by the offering of Pepsi, a famous American product. Overall, the food did not earn its price of about $7-$13 per entree, triple that of most food elsewhere in Phnom Penh. It was clear, however, the men were not there for the food. While it was thoroughly average Korean fare, the cuisine was really an afterthought. The real cost of the meal, I suspect, was for the talent and attention of the all-female staff. Every waitress doubled as a performer. Various members spoke various languages: Korean, Chinese, Khmer, Japanese and English. They sang and played a variety of instruments and styles, ranging from patriotic North Korean

songs to instrumental rock music to saccharine Chinese love songs like “The Moon Represents My Heart” by Teresa Teng. They also did multiple costume changes (taking turns performing and serving food) and performed elaborately choreographed North Korean dances. Of course, hanbok figured heavily into the wardrobe, in both the traditional style and more modern interpretations. Admittedly, the women were impressively talented; the rock performance in particular left me imagining the academy, somewhere in Pyongyang, where teenage girls are sent to learn bass, guitar and drums with the intention of one day playing in one of these restaurants. But there was no way to ignore that the waitresses were also stunningly gorgeous. I recalled the blog of a defector who wrote that as a child in a North Korean school, she was shown depictions of Americans as hook-nosed werewolves. I suspect most Western tourists came there simply to gawk, or perhaps even mock, and the staff did not seem thrilled by my presence. Despite making my order in Korean, I was met only with terse but polite replies in English. Our waitress seemed to be the goto English speaker on staff, a designation she didn’t appear to relish. She very reluctantly took a photograph with me, but only after my friend repeated my request nicely in Mandarin. The other male patrons seemed to get more of their money’s worth, with the women spending most of their time mingling, smiling and serving alcohol to the increasingly inebriated businessmen after the performance. For their part, the servers were very tolerant of what bordered on harassment, despite having done nothing to encourage it. I couldn’t help but think that the restaurant could hardly be earning enough money to make it a worthwhile venture in itself for the North Korean government. I didn’t think my kimchi fried rice was going to fund any nuclear programs or I wouldn’t have gone in the first place. In theory, it could exist simply as a diplomatic symbol. However, North Korean researcher Bertil Lintner has linked ventures like this one to Bureau 39, a wing of the Korean Worker’s Party responsible for laundering money from various, more illegal, ventures which might include human and weapons trafficking. Still, like most theories on North Korea, it will probably just remain speculation. While it was ultimately an impressive show, I couldn’t shake off the vibe of its Potemkin facade. I visited for a glimpse, however artificial, of North Korea, and I left with more questions than answers. Who exactly were the other patrons? What was the venue’s real function? Obviously I won’t get those answers, but I never expected to. To onlookers, that is how North Korea fascinates: with its frustrating unknowability. In that regard, Pyongyang Restaurant doesn’t disappoint.

MUSIC & ARTS Edited by Elaine Ramirez (elaine@groovekorea.com)

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Only in

dreams

‘Stage of Mind’ artist Lee Jee-young recreates fantastical imageries Story by Remy Raitt Photos courtesy of Lee Jee-young

n her tiny 3.6-by-6-by-2.4-meter Seoul studio, artist Lee Jee-young has been constructing and capturing her own dreamscapes without the luxury of outside help. This means no other contributors and, a more rare occurrence these days, no Photoshop (or any other kind of digital manipulation, for that matter). Blurring the lines between mediums, she packs a multilayered punch that combines painting, sculpture, installation, theatrical performance, videography and staged analogue photography. Netizens with an eye for the ethereal were blown away last year when the Web was flooded with images from her photographic series “Stage of Mind,” which was exhibited at Opiom Gallery in France this year. The Hongik University graduate says she chooses not to use Photoshop because of her personal art philosophy. And although she does get a kick out of people’s disbelief, she says that what is more important to her, and hopefully the viewer, is the subject matter. Another fundamental component to the artist is the reflective yet laborious task of installing and taking apart her surreal and fantastic creations. “The final format is photography, but to me the making and the breaking process is an integral part of my work. My work always portrays my mental condition at the time. I recreate the imaginary scenery from my mental landscape, record and document. After that I destroy the set, returning it to nothing, or something of the past.” Working since 2007, Lee has officially released the original 4-by-5-inch large-format film camera photographs of 27 of these artistic elucidations, each set taking at least two months to complete. Unsurprisingly, her biggest challenge is the time limitation, but that’s the price to pay when recreating, completely by hand, a tableau that is only otherwise visible in the mind. These mindscapes, sometimes whimsical and other times of a more somber nature, are an exploration into Lee’s head. “In my work, I reconstruct my feelings. The background props and objects in them reenact these scenes in a metaphorical way,” she says. “My work is about sublimating my complicated emotions into a form of art. From a personal level it helps me analyze and understand ‘me,’ and often then I feel healed.” Besides the fact that she is the artist, the presence of Lee herself in most of the photographs further dis59

MUSIC & ARTS Edited by Elaine Ramirez (elaine@groovekorea.com)

closes the personal and reflective nature of her work. “My works are based on my personal stories and the model represents my ego, I feel it is a self-portrait of sorts,” Lee says. Always engulfed in her surroundings, the model — Lee — is never looking directly into the camera. “The model is never the main focus of my pieces; the focus is more on the situation the person is in,” she says. “The model is the only living organism on set, and if she looked straight into the camera it would dominate the piece and disrupt the narrative. That is not what I want. The characters in my pieces are passive. They do not fight or resist the situation they are in. I feel that element resembles me in real life.” Likened to American installation artist and photographer Sandy Skoglund for her transformations of room-sized installations into fantasy spaces and their shared obsessive-compulsive use of color and pattern, art critics have also linked Lee’s work with German sculptor and photographer Thomas Demand, another artist who builds life-size models, photographs them and then demolishes them. What sets her apart from these two, however, is her Korean identity and the significance of this in many of ‘My work is about her pieces. Referencing Ko- sublimating my rean folk tales and her own complicated emotions experiences as a native to into a form of art. the country in the modern From a personal level day, Lee explores the in- it helps me analyze fluence her country has on and understand ‘me,’ her. “I feel a strong sense and often then I feel of belonging here in Korea,” healed.’ she explains. “I grew up in Lee Jee-young Korea fully immersed in its social fabric, and my identity is rooted in the experiences I have accumulated in this social sphere. It determines my actions and thoughts. I cannot be completely free from social pressures, conventions or other elements that are imposed on its members.” And while referencing these societal benchmarks, Lee more importantly expresses her own experiences with them: “Individuals often find themselves caught between their own needs and social convention. I touch upon the issues of conflicting interests between myself and my society in my work.” By reverting the imagination to the tangible and the private to the public, Lee uses her art as a form of catharsis. “Looking at yourself objectively is a difficult task, and I am no exception,” she discloses. But in this artistic struggle for self-acceptance, understanding and healing, Lee says she finds meaning and clarity. Perhaps, then, it’s not just the breathtaking level of handiwork and unbelievable imagination Lee pours into her art that makes it so incredible, but the honesty that underlies it all.

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MUSIC & ARTS Edited by Emilee Jennings (Emilee@groovekorea.com)

Michael Roy S t r e e t a r t i s t pa i n t s a r e a l - l i f e p i c t u r e Story by Conrad Hughes / Photos courtesy of Michael Roy

eoul-based street artist and illustrator Michael Roy uses public spaces around the world to create poignant pieces about anything from personal loves to oblique commentary on Korea’s future. He recently returned from producing a piece on the Berlin Wall, and prior to that had just finished a display for a show in Apgujeong’s Zombie 666. The soft-spoken Southerner is humble and forthright about what he does — quietly proud and always preparing for the future. Displaying real emotion through his artwork is one of Roy’s goals in life. Pushed toward visual expression by his arts magnet high school, Roy went on to graduate from the Memphis College of Art and eventually turned to public art. “I wanted to avoid the hyper-articulated artistic vocabulary that restricted the content to the academic,” he says. “That kind of organically took me to street art.” Traveling has been a major part of his inspiration; he takes the good with the bad and tries to view new cultures with an open mind. During his time here, he has heard people say they are aware of the cultural differences, but he feels some still tend to judge everything from a Western perspective. “A lot of people come here ready to be really haughty about how unhealthy the conformity in Korea is, even before they arrive here,” says Roy. “Your perspective needs to be challenged when you’re abroad.” Roy’s growing catalog includes his tribal paintings, which elicit a sense of otherworldly defiance while also providing gentle mocking insight into Korean life. “I try to be sincere in spite of the seemingly ubiquitous movement to be embarrassed about sincerity,” he says.

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This is best seen in pieces like “FARM LiFe,” a 7-foot-high caricature on a wall in Bucheon proudly displaying a knuckle tattoo that spells the title. A new piece, “Get Off Of The Phone,” depicts the all-too-regular Korean phenomena of cellphone addiction with a giant monkey on the back of an oblivious, grinning man gazing at his cellphone with three eyes. Roy’s large collection of hip-hop portraits also reflects his deep-rooted love for a genre that often communicates with similar tones and content to street art. The evocative figures shown throughout his collection portray a deep humanity in spite of their obvious nonhuman facial features. It is this strength of expression that makes his invertible figures seem charming and friendly when they could just as easily be terrifying. Roy realizes there may be several artists with a similar aesthetic. “There are millions of people drawing,” he says. “Humans are really similar. It’s almost impossible for there not to be other people out there doing the same thing.” He doesn’t mind comparisons, though. Instead, he considers it flattering that others, independently of him, may reach a similar conclusion. If more than one talented artist decides to depict the same thing, then surely this is a good sign. “The public are a good judge,” he says. His accommodating views extend to life in Korea. He says he “gets really bogged down by the cynicism a lot of foreigners have when they come to Korea.” While most Westerners often consider the Korean pursuit of conformity to be childish, Roy notes that the Western idea of individuality could be taken as equally fatalistic and contrarian; in a world where individuality is the vogue, we also seek to conform and fit in. “Westerners immediately assume individuality is so much better than conformity but honestly, it’s

The soft-spoken Southerner is humble and forthright about what he does, quietly proud and always preparing for the future.

just more complex than that,” explains Roy. “The extremity that Westerners go to to seem unique is absurd and self-absorbed, and just as banal as the lengths others go to not to stand out. It’s just a different angle.” The Mississippi native’s opinions are delivered gently, without prejudice, as are the messages contained in his paintings. He notes that the Korean street art community, like most of the world’s street art communities, is open to new people and new ideas, and this sense of openness allows street art to thrive in every corner of the world. “Some of the most unique and creative people I have ever come across are Korean artists, so fuck all these stereotypes and assumptions.” Michael Roy expresses a version of street art stripped of bravado and backed with a strong sense of humor. His artwork will stand on walls throughout Korea, Japan, the U.S., Germany and many more countries for years to come.

More info The featured murals are collaborations between Bird Cap and Junkhouse. More of Roy’s art can be found at birdcap.tumblr.com and facebook.com/birdcapart, while T-shirts with custom pieces are available at varyd.com.

MUSIC & ARTS Edited by Elaine Ramirez (elaine@groovekorea.com)

The Andong mask maker Master craftsman Kim Dong-pyo keeps artisan tradition alive Story by Hal Swindall / Photos courtesy of Kim Dong-pyo and Kim Soo-jin

scar Wilde once argued that we are only really ourselves when cloaked with another identity. “A man is least himself when he talks in his own person,” he quipped. “Give him a mask, and he will tell you the truth.” The implication is that masks let us express truths that are normally left unspoken. His conclusion? “The truths of metaphysics are the truths of masks.” But long before Wilde mused about how masks could shape truth, Ancient Greek actors wore them while delivering their immortal lines, and shamans in many cultures have performed special rites with elaborately covered faces. The use of masks is as timeless as it is universal. In Korea, masks, called tal, also date back centuries. Traditionally revered as possessing spiritual power, they were kept in shamans’ houses outside of villages and only taken out for specific ceremonies. From the mid-12th century, they became used for a kind of folk dance in which the common folk, then called “sangmin” or “pyeongmin,” satirized their yangban overlords and expressed their feelings. The “byeolsingut,” as this dance is known, was performed with yangban consent, since it tended to

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let off steam for the peasants and made for inter-class harmony. The last byeolsingut was performed in 1928, but the tradition was revived again in 1973 in Andong, a town in North Gyeongsang Province that considers itself the center of the national spirit. Just up the road from the nearby Hahoe Folk Village is the Hahoe Mask Museum, where Kim Dong-pyo, an Andong native and master mask craftsman, presents his private collection of masks from around the world to the public. He looks quite young, despite being middle-aged, and comes off as alert and responsive. As we talk, he smokes calmly. The man himself leads visitors to a small side room that is bare save for a low wooden table and stools made from tree trunk sections. It is a decidedly appropriate setting for a wood artisan who sprang from humble origins. Kim never attended university, instead learning his trade at a woodworking school after graduating high school. After completing his military service in 1976, he continued woodcraft studies at the Hanyang Wood Carving Institute in Seoul. While there, he met a master woodworker who

Kim used his earnings to establish his own arts and crafts center. At this time, a neighbor brought him a postage stamp with the image of a traditional Korean mask on it, and asked him if he could produce one like it. Kim decided ‘Why not?’ and tried.

became his mentor, and studied under him for one year before working as a laborer in Iran to save money. Returning to Seoul, he used his earnings to establish his own arts and crafts center. At this time, a neighbor brought him a postage stamp with the image of a traditional Korean mask on it, and asked him if he could produce one like it. Kim decided “Why not?” and tried. His first attempt at a mask resulted in an inferior product. Angry at himself, he tried again and again to hand carve a perfect mask until he finally succeeded through self-teaching. However, learning through trial and error to make high-quality masks was not enough to make his Seoul business succeed, and Kim lost all his money after two years. Returning to his native Andong, Kim set about establishing himself as a preserver of the Korean folk tradition for which the city is famous. There he specialized in Andong masks for the talnori, a local dance dating from the mid-Joseon period that, like the byeolsingut, was a way for the common folk to express feelings that they were not allowed to speak, and thus promoted understanding between the common folk and the aristocrats. Masks were also used in praying for rain, peace or a good harvest. Kim is interested in masks everywhere as an ancient religious phenomenon that predates Christianity, Buddhism and Islam, and considers them masterpieces of human ingenuity. In Korea, masks survived Confucian rationalism and Buddhist introspection. After years of hard work and travel to collect masks, Kim founded the Hahoe Mask Museum in 1995, and was granted official permission to call it a museum the following year. It houses a stunning collection of masks from places as diverse as Mongolia, Italy, Africa, India, North America, Malaysia, Indonesia and Papua New Guinea. Kim bought every piece in it with his own money, and proudly shares them with all who come. Next to the museum is Kim’s workshop, which is no larger than a two-car garage. Kim is content here, with his tools and current projects lying on his work table. On the wall is a large photo of him meeting Queen Elizabeth II when she visited Andong for her birthday in 1999. Only three people were allowed to present her with gifts, one of whom was Kim. He approached Her Majesty wearing a woman’s hanbok and talnori mask, since traditionally only male dancers act in the talnori; he smiles while telling of her surprise when he removed the mask and she realized he was a man. After his success with the Queen, there came such a demand for his masks that he is constantly busy. Behind the museum is a tourist area, and here Kim treats us to lunch. Naturally, we eat Andong’s famous stewed chicken (jjimdak), which we wash down with dongdongju. Not everyone can secure an introduction to Kim, but his museum is there for all to see, and is well worth a visit for anyone going to the Andong area.

More info For more on the Andong mask dance, visit www.maskdance.com. For a discussion of masks in general with mention of Kim Dong-pyo, visit www.debbelldesigns.com/publications/the-mask-maker-s-magic. For the Hahoe Mask Museum, visit www.mask.kr.

MUSIC & ARTS Edited by Elaine Ramirez (elaine@groovekorea.com)

rock n roll seoul

Yukari

A dream-pop journey into electronic indie Column by Sophie Boladeras Photos by Hyosin Park

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tares can be a bit disconcerting when riding the Seoul subway, so I put in my earbuds, close my eyes and let the relaxing waves of Yukari’s electro-pop take me elsewhere. Yukari is still in her early twenties, but her chilled-out, synth-heavy music is already making waves in Korea’s burgeoning electronic music scene. She released her self-produced debut album, aptly titled “Echo,” in Korea in December 2012 and more recently in Japan. The album features seven tracks of distorted dream pop, all of which are written, arranged, mixed and mastered by the multitalented artist herself. Yukari’s melodious and tranquil vocals imbue many of the album’s dark songs with a sweet sense of melancholy. Yukari hasn’t been around for long and is still honing her skills by playing live shows around Seoul. Although the young musician is a newbie to the electronic indie music scene, she has been around music her entire life. She began learning the piano from a young age and went on to major in electronic music at university. Since the release of “Echo,” she has been spending her time blanketing her listeners in cotton-like layers of live sound while singing and mixing right in front of their eyes. She is currently working on producing a full-length album and hopes to eventually play overseas.

Groove Korea: How would you describe your sound? Yukari: Mellow and dreamy. How old were you when you first started creating music? When I was in college, I majored in electronic music and that is how I got my start making music with computers. Before studying music, when I was younger, I used to make piano-based music for my personal practice. Where did you play your first live show? When I was majoring in music at university, there was a freshman performance at school and that was my first public performance. My first performance after the release of my debut album was in February 2013 in Hongdae, Seoul. I made many mistakes because I was nervous and I didn’t know how the audience would receive my music. However, I was really excited when my music was introduced by the renowned YouTube channel Eat Your Kimchi during their Korean Indie Playlist segment; this video has now had more than 25,000 views. Do you write often? Would you consider yourself poetic? Yes, I spend most of my days making sketch music. I love reading poetry and write it as well, but it is hard to say if I’m a poetic person. Maybe I am just a sensitive girl. What types of things do you sing about? Many of my songs are about my daily life. The lyrics are inspired by spontaneous feelings, rather than daydreams. I tend to write songs about my experiences, such as feelings of void, loneliness or jealousy. Tell us about your seven-track album “Echo.” My friend took the album cover picture and designed the album jacket. All of the rest, the writing, recording, mixing and mastering, I did myself. Have you faced any challenges as an independent electronic musician in Korea? We don’t have many chances to play electronic music in Korea, compared to rock or club music. However, electronic music is becoming more popular and I believe that it will continue to gain popularity.

How has your music developed and changed over the years? My debut album, “Echo,” is my first, and since I released it I have mostly focused on music for my live performances. Currently, I haven’t completed any new tracks, so you will have to wait and see. Which artists inspire/influence your sound? Bill Evans, Portishead, Lali Puna and many, many more. What are you listening to at the moment? I am listening to a song by Tim Hutton called “Colors.” My top three songs right now are Bill Evans’ “Waltz for Debby,” Joanna Newsom’s “Peach, Plum, Pear” and Rachel’s “Last Things Last.”

‘Many of my songs are about my daily life. The lyrics are inspired by spontaneous feelings, rather than daydreams. I tend to write songs Do you have any other creative endeavabout my experiences, ors or hobbies? such as feelings of void, I spend most of my time listening to muloneliness or jealousy.’ sic and I love to read, too. Right now I am reading “Status Anxiety” (2004) by Alain de Botton, which touches on love, poetry, mystery, psychology and philosophy.

Yukari

Your name is Japanese; are you Japanese? I am Korean; I just borrowed my name from the eucalyptus plant, which koalas like to eat. I really like koalas, but the name has no special meaning. Have you found success in both Korea and Japan? I only just recently released my album “Echo” in Japan, and I hope that the album will be successful there. What do you have planned for the future? I am planning to rest for a while and then I will focus on producing a new album. And possibly, I would like to be able to have a live performance outside of Korea.

More info

Website: yukari.bandcamp.com

MUSIC & ARTS Edited by Elaine Ramirez (elaine@groovekorea.com)

John Mayer to make Seoul debut on May 6 Story by Albert Kim

coustic/soul-legend multiplatinum singer-songwriter John Mayer will perform in Seoul for the first time on May 6. Mayer, known for his sultry voice and unique blend of words and phrases, has been an international hit since the debut of “Your Body is a Wonderland,” which earned him the Grammy for best male pop vocal performance in 2003. The release of his album had several additional hits such as “No Such Thing” and “Why Georgia.” He has shown his flexibility and artistry by transitioning his style from acoustic rock to blues, and in 2005, Mayer earned his first No. 1 hit single with the song “Daughters” as well as the Grammy for Song of the Year, beating contenders Alicia Keys and Kanye West, and taking home another trophy for best male pop vocal performance that same year. Mayer’s single targeted his young female demographic explicably well, and propelled him to the top of the lineup of acoustic guitarists of the early 2000s. He has shown diversity, too, by tapping into music icons and collaborating with the likes of Buddy Guy, B.B. King, Eric Clapton and jazz artist John Scofield. This led to recordings with several of these artists, such as Clapton (“Back Home”), Guy (“Bring ‘Em In”), Scofield (“That’s What I Say”) and King (“80”).

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Mayer, among other artists during this time, was part of a trend where hip-hop was combined with seemingly unrelated genres of music. He appeared on Common’s song “Go!” and on Kanye West’s “Bittersweet Poetry.” By 2013, Mayer had released six studio albums and won seven Grammys overall after being nominated 19 times in a decade. He has won Grammys in various categories for best male pop vocal performance, song of the year, best pop vocal album, as well as best song written for a motion picture. He is now the 14th to join a prestigious string of musicians and artists invited to join the Hyundai Card Culture Project, which has boasted performances by John Legend, Ke$ha, The Killers, Damien Rice and Jason Mraz. Mayer will perform on May 6 at the Jamsil Indoor Stadium in Seoul, part of his 18-city world tour. Ticket prices range from 110,000 won to 132,000 won.

More info

Hyundai Card Culture Project 14 John Mayer When May 6 Where Auxiliary Stadium at the Jamsil Sports Complex Cost 110,000 won to 132,000 won Website Ticket.interpark.com/Global

Seoul

lobal Culture & Tourism Center This is the place where you can experience Korean culture and get information about travelling in Seoul.

HANDICRAFT-MAKING

K-FOOD COOKING

K-DRUM SAMULNORI

K-POP DANCE

HANBOK(Korean Traditional Costume)

K-BEAUTY MAKE-UP

Opening Hours 10:30am - 7:30pm open everyday except New Yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Day & Chuseok Email seoulcenter3789@gmail.com

EXIT

Euljiro 1-ga Staion

Myeong-dong Tourist Information Center 1F KEB

TEL 02.778.0333

Website www.seoultourism.kr (English support) Facebook facebook.com/SeoulGlobalCultureTourismCenter

Myeong-dong Theater

Tel 02.3789.7961 Address 5th FL, M-Plaza, 27 Myeong-dong 8-gil, Junggu, Seoul

Front gate

Back gate

Seoul

lobal Culture & Tourism Center

EXIT

Myeong-dong Kyoja

EXIT

Myeong-dong Staion

MUSIC & ARTS Edited by Elaine Ramirez (elaine@groovekorea.com)

Column by Wilfred Lee / Photos courtesy of Yvette Cruz

Interview with Yvette Cruz, fashionista

ailing from Chicago, Yvette Cruz enjoys scoping out Seoul’s fashion scenes and promoting global brands in Korea. She is the founder and showrunner of District Gal, an online fashion blog part of an expat-driven movement toward exploring the fashion mecca of Seoul. Artist’s Journey’s Wilfred Lee talked to Cruz about her tips, the trends in Korea and fashion as art and identity.

70 www.groovekorea.com / April 2014

Artist’s Journey: What influences your own fashion sense? Yvette Cruz: I usually find ways to be trendy on a budget because I’m realistic with myself. I know I’m living off an entry-level salary. In the States, I always found cool and cutesy finds at the thrift stores, and I go crazy at Seoul’s underground shopping spots finding accessories, clothing or trendy shoes — basically, I turn up my wardrobe a notch or two on a budget. If I get something expensive, it stays with me for a long while.

Ewha Womans University, Gasan Digital Complex, Hapjeong, Hongik University, Myeong-dong, Sindorim and Yeongdeungpo Station. One of the toughest problems in Korea isn’t the prices; it’s not being able to try stuff on. Buying something, then trying it on at home and finding it doesn’t fit, or it doesn’t look as good as you thought — is frustrating. It takes time to get to know your figure and personal style. Getting to know what styles suit your body type is a matter of trial and error.

What makes good and bad fashion? People tend to underdress or overdress, instead of just keeping balance. No matter what your style is (quirky-fun, trendy-chic, edgycool), remember to make it easy by complementing your outfit with one or two basic colors.

How can local independent stores maintain their influences over big-brand labels? There are more than enough ways for shop owners to reach out to their niche markets via the Internet or offline. Big-brand labels will always be the staples in the industry, as they’ve been around for decades, but that doesn’t mean local brands don’t have the power to connect and show power-branding! Diane Von Furstenberg is recognized for the practical wrap dress for women to wear for any occasion, whether for work or a date night — and the functional dress boomed over big brands in the fashion industry. Fashion is all about uniqueness for each generation.

How is Korea’s culture reflected through its fashion? One hint of this is the lack of color in clothing — warm bright reds to cool shades of blue. Whatever the tint, it’s typical for Koreans not to add too much pop-of-color power into their dress. Within Korean culture, standing out tends to be disapproved of. It’s important to follow order, and the general rule of thumb is simple, basic and conservative. But one question lingers on my mind: What’s with all the miniskirts? How have you found your own fashion adapting to Korean culture? My best friend, DGal editor Michelle Ibarra, called Peter Pan collared tops, colorful bows and headbands the “trends that I would wear in Korea but would never wear at home.” Korean women tend to dress innocently and flowery — although these days a bit edgier — so I have to be conscious about what I wear to work or when I head out to Seoul. Koreans are conscious about how much skin they’re exposing, heavy eye makeup, flats or heels, the amount of lint on a jacket; fashion here is much more conservative. While living here, I’ve adopted some of the cutesy girlie aesthetics, but I’m still a Western girl with my own identity, so I’ll put on a pair of ripped, rugged jeans if I feel like it! How does the fashion differ in each district of Seoul? Apgujeong, Cheongdam, Gangnam and Sinsa are home to many high-end Korean and international brands or boutiques. They are a bit pricey, but the glamorous hotspots always are. These areas have the highest-priced apartments, perfect date-night spots, etc., which resemble SoHo in New York or, for me, Gold Coast in Chicago. Because these areas are so hot, you might bump into chic, rich and famous Korean celebrities. It’s also promising that you’ll find cool clothing within your budget. A few shop favorites to mention are 8ight Seconds, Up & Over, Uniqlo, Forever 21 and Kim’s Boutique. If you want to go cheaper, head over to Express Bus Terminal in Seoul’s Seocho district, and you’ll find countless sale racks. I should also mention that Jamsil is only a few minutes from there, famous for another underground shopping area. Underground and street shopping is a bit hectic, but the savings are worth it. You can get a whole outfit, including heels, for under $30. Plus, if what you bought doesn’t work out, you won’t feel guilty since you didn’t spend a lot. Some places to try are Dongdaemun,

More info

Visit Yvette Cruz’s website at www.districtgal.com.

How important is fashion today compared with in the past? Fashion has always been a reflection of history and the values of that era; in today’s world, women can express themselves and dress uber-sexy or keep that classic conservative sort of vibe. Fashion is all about showing off your unique personality ‘Fashion is all about and what you want to portray. There showing off your are positive and negative sides to this, unique personality and getting approval of how we look, and what you want today or in the past, is still a vital part to portray. There are of our image and lifestyle.

positive and negative sides to this, and getting approval of how we look, today or in the past, is still a vital part of our image and lifestyle.’

How can fashion be used as a form of self-expression? It is how one shows their unique culture or identity. Fashion is mixing and matching in a way that makes you happy and confident. But why do we need clothing as a form of expression? Yvette Cruz Fashion will never hurt the individual (unless you’re wearing 6-inch stilettos) and it allows you to express who you are or who you want to be. We all want to wear something stylish and comfortable; it doesn’t have to be expensive. For women, a dress alone without all the bling speaks volumes! And men, this is also your fashion world — whether well groomed or rugged-chic, looking good will work for you. Is fashion an art form? Of course! Fashion is much more than what you see on the hanger. Designers, craftsmen, illustrators and printers spend a lot of time designing, constructing and researching history or architecture to supply a piece of clothing with a one-of-a-kind touch and feel. Garment combinations season after season, year after year, are made with inspiration and imagination to keep you in tune with modern times. Fashion can make you a live, beautiful, walking piece of art.

Artist’s Journey brings you daily doses of inspiration, including weekly podcasts featuring artists from around the globe. Learn more at facebook.com/ myartistsjourney or www.artistsjourney.org. — Ed

MUSIC & ARTS Edited by Jenny Na (jenny@groovekorea.com)

AT THE BOX OFFICE THE BIG SCREEN Preview by Dean Crawford

GrooveCast

The Amazing Spider-Man 2 Directed by Marc Webb

April

Action / Adventure / Fantasy 142 minutes

If I were forced to name my favorite comic book movie of all time, I think it would be a close call between “X-Men 2” (2003) and Sam Raimi’s original “Spider-Man” (2002), with “Spider-Man” slightly edging it. Sure, it was cheesy at times, but I couldn’t believe my eyes when I first saw Spider-Man swinging through the streets of New York. Fast-forward five years, and the sight of an emo Peter Parker disco dancing his way through the streets of New York pretty much killed the franchise. Sam Raimi and Tobey Maguire tried to make “Spider-Man 4,” but creative differences led to Raimi’s departure and Marc Webb rebooting the series as “The Amazing Spider-Man” (2012), which was essentially the same film as Raimi’s original, but this time Peter Parker rode a skateboard. However, “The Amazing Spider-Man 2” will see Spider-Man face off against some of his most formidable foes yet, in the shape of Electro (Jamie Foxx) and The Rhino (Paul Giamatti),

Divergent Directed by Neil Burger

April

GrooveCast host Chance Dorland and columnist Dean Crawford talk movies. Check out the podcast at groovekorea.com.

who both seem to be connected in some way to the Oscorp organization. Andrew Garfield returns as Spider-Man and Emma Stone returns as Gwen Stacy. Dane DeHaan of “Chronicle” (2012) fame completes the cast as Harry Osborn. One of the biggest problems with “Spider-Man 3” (2007) was that it tried to include too many characters. So the alarm bells started ringing when the new trailer included not only Electro and The Rhino, but also Harry Osborn, who is the Green Goblin. There were also hints at the inclusion of the Sinister Six, which may well be nods to future films, but it’s still a risky decision to include all these characters, considering how this strategy backfired spectacularly in “Spider-Man 3.” I’m guessing Fox is feeling pretty confident, as “The Amazing Spider-Man” 3 and 4 have already been announced. So, as long as the film is a box office success, we’ll be seeing a lot more of the web slinger in the near future.

Sci-fi / Fantasy / Action 139 minutes

At the time of this writing, only two Eng- once you turn 16, you must take a test telling lish-language films were scheduled for release you to which of the five factions of a futurisin April. One was “Spider-Man” and the sec- tic Chicago you are best suited. Beatrice Prior ond was a film called “Divergent.” Now, in a (Woodley) qualifies for three factions, which busy month, I wouldn’t have given “Divergent” is unheard of, and is labeled a divergent — a person with a special mind who is an enemy a second look. The poster tells us it’s “based on the world- of the government. Kate Winslet plays Jeanine wide bestseller” and features two gorgeous but Matthews, a leader who tries to exterminate mean-looking teenagers (one strapped with a these people and take control of the divided bow and arrow) looking off into the distance society. With a split nation, attempts to overdressed in what appears to be PVC. An edu- throw a government and rubber jumpsuits, the cated guess could tell you that this is the next film has the look and feel of a not-so-edgy attempt by a studio to cash in on the young “Hunger Games.” Roth has two more novels in the series, “Inadult fiction boom and find themselves the next surgent” and “Allegiant,” which I’m sure are “Twilight” (2008) or “Hunger Games” (2012). Despite my initial hesitation, I noticed that the waiting to get made into films. However, the film stars Shailene Woodley, who was excel- filmmakers need to be careful. For every “Twilent in one of my favorite films of last year, “The light” or “Hunger Games,” there are several Spectacular Now,” so I thought I would give it others that have tried to cash in on the young a try. Well, that and the fact that there literally adult fiction craze and failed. Remember “The Mortal Instruments” or “Beautiful Creatures”? was no other choice. Based on the novel of the same name by Ve- Exactly. Me neither. ronica Roth, “Divergent” is set in a world where,

72 www.groovekorea.com / April 2014

KOREaN DVD CORNER THE SMALL SCREEN Review by Dean Crawford

Rated

NR Despite Korea’s arguable status as the world’s foremost authority on revenge flicks, I feel like its contributions to the gangster genre never really hit the same heights. But 2012 was a year that challenged that history, with the excellent “Nameless Gangster” being released, as well as Lim Sang-yoon’s thrilling debut, “A Company Man.” Last year also saw the release of another film that had a lot of potential — Park Hoonjeong’s “New World.” After the leader of the Goldmoon mafia organization is killed, a battle for the vacant position ensues. At odds are Lee Jung-gu (Park Seong-woong), the suave, smooth-talking No. 3 in command, and Jeong Cheong (Hwang Jeong-min), the comical but crazy No. 2 and proper heir. Jeong Cheong’s right-hand man, Lee Jaseong (Lee Jung-jae), is actually an undercover police officer whose strings are being pulled by Chief Kang (Choi Min-sik) and who, despite Ja-seong’s protestations, is forcing Ja-seong to stay deep undercover to try and influence the imminent violence caused by the gang’s

Crime / Thriller 134 minutes

(신세계) Directed by Park Hoon-jeong

transition of power. “New World” is a breath of fresh air, albeit a rather violent one. It would be easy to say it’s simply the Korean version of “Infernal Affairs” (2002), but it’s more than that. Sure, “Infernal Affairs” is a big influence, but so is “The Godfather” (1972), as gangsters dish out brutal, bloody vengeance after their leader’s departure. As one might expect, Choi Min-sik is solid as a police chief whose own actions blur the line between lawman and criminal. Despite some overacting in the more emotional scenes, Lee Jung-jae is great in his role as he tries to work out who the bigger criminals are: the police or the gangsters. But it’s Hwang Jeong-min who steals the show; he succeeds at being laughout-loud funny while still making sure you never underestimate his character. He can switch from comedian to psychotic killer in a second, as he does in one of the best fight sequences I’ve seen in a Korean movie since the hallway scene in “Oldboy” (2003). “New World” is a must-see! Rated

After watching the excellent “New World” (2013), I came to the realization that I might have to reeducate myself on the Korean gangster genre. In the last two years, Korea has produced some classics, so I decided to go back and take a look at some of the best-reviewed gangster films of the last decade. One that’s consistently ranked near the top is Ryu Seung-wan’s “The City of Violence” (2006). When the film opens, we meet Wang-jae, a reformed gangster who runs a bar in Onsung. After getting into a confrontation with a group of young thugs, Wang-jae is overpowered and killed. Tae-su (Jeong Du-hong), a friend of Wang-jae’s who is now a police detective in Seoul, returns to his hometown to grieve with his once-inseparable group of childhood friends. As Tae-su investigates deeper into his old comrade’s death, he starts to realize that Wang-jae’s murder doesn’t make any sense — something isn’t quite right in his old town. Initially, “The City of Violence” confused me,

New World

Action / Crime / Drama 92 minutes

The City of Violence (짝패) Directed by Ryu Seung-wan

as I couldn’t quite work out if the film was intentionally trying to be funny. It starts off naturally enough, but transforms into a parody of the 1979 film “The Warriors” as Tae-su fights off more than 200 people from gangs such as the Capoeira BMX bandits and the face-painted baseball players. But once I got to the film’s finale, it all became clear; “The City of Violence” is an exploitation movie wrapped up as a hardboiled Korean crime drama. Take, for instance, the scenes in which Taesu walks around punching bad guys through doors, accompanied by a Shaft-approved soundtrack. Or the film’s violent finale, which initially plays out like “A Fistful of Dollars” (1964), but ends up more like “Kill Bill” (200304), which itself is an homage to several types of exploitation films. Once I realized all this, I instantly watched the film again. It might not be totally original, but it sure is a lot of fun.

COMMUNITY Edited by Jenny Na (jenny@groovekorea.com)

Channeling Korea Professor Oh and company ham it up to make language lessons fun Story by Sophie Boladeras / Photos by Dylan Goldby

orean-American Mina Oh quelled the boredom of college life by sifting through an inexhaustible number of cat and music videos on YouTube. She noticed that there weren’t many Korean-language videos, so she decided to make a simple lesson teaching the Korean alphabet and the video was online in just a couple hours. The architecture undergrad had no idea that the video would eventually rake in more than 1.5 million views. After more early successes like this, Oh is now the mastermind of her own quirky YouTube channel Sweet And Tasty, which has since attracted more than 140,000 subscribers and hurled her into a career that harnesses

74 www.groovekorea.com / April 2014

her creative nature. “I was so enthusiastic to make the videos that I would sleep less to work on them,” she said over Korean fare at Slobbie restaurant in Hongdae during a recent visit to Seoul. “Eventually, I decided that architecture wasn’t the most compatible career for me and I started the KWOW (Korean Word of the Week) series.” After the first series caught on, she eventually added another one called Snack Tub Korea, which has her alter ego Professor Oh reviewing a tub full of Korean snacks. To liven up her videos, Oh kept adding more characters to the cast. There’s also the Korean foodie Taekwon Do and his aegyo-licious,

K-pop-loving girlfriend Billy Jin; Taekwon Do’s best friend Hyungmin, who owns a Korean BBQ restaurant and nightclub; and Hyungmin’s catty girlfriend Madison, who is always clashing with Billy Jin. “The characters were born out of necessity and limitation,” she said. “The Korean language contains honorifics and gender-specifics. To teach important words and phrases for diverse social situations, I needed a family of actors and actresses. “My real-life Korean grandmother was thousands of miles away, so I created my own grandmother: the hip-hoppin’ gangster Granny Kim. Everyone needs a friend, thus another granny was born: Bongja, an addict of every-

‘My viewers allow me to pursue what I do best: working on creative projects from home. I’m forever thankful for my viewers’ love and support.’ Mina Oh

thing big and glamorous. Billy Jin was needed to demonstrate how younger generations talk to people their age and older.” The list of rambunctious characters goes on, and it is through them that Oh brings the Korean language to life. For Korean-language learners who are disenchanted with the challenges that learning a second language can present, Professor Oh and friends provide a hilarious, engaging alternative to hitting the books. The channel started out with an academic vibe, but Oh has since created a more relaxed and fun atmosphere with videos covering diverse aspects of the Korean language and culture. She has also covered controversial topics such as plastic surgery, homosexuality and religion in Korea, though she tries to maintain a neutral stance. She is, however, outspoken about education systems such as Korea’s where students are pressured into excessive study. “I hope, in the future, the education system will become one that allows students to live a more balanced lifestyle, one that will allow them to discover and develop their individual talents,” she said. “People are happier when there is more than one type of road to success. After all, behind the objective test score numbers, there are emotions and diverse dreams.”

Oh grew up working on various projects at home, and her YouTube venture is an outgrowth of that creative spirit. “Whether it was quilting, writing a story or building an empire in the digital world, I’d come home from school and work on something,” she said. “My viewers allow me to pursue what I do best: working on creative projects from home. I’m forever thankful for my viewers’ love and support.” Making the videos involves more work than meets the eye, but Oh can’t imagine doing anything else. Every week she scripts, films and edits videos for two channels — the second one being Ramona Champion, where she chats about health and lifestyle. She also blogs about Korean restaurants and culture on her website and does her own marketing. Born and raised in the Bay Area, Oh has lived in Los Angeles for the past seven years and has been a proud resident of the Westside and Koreatown. Both of her parents grew up in South Korea, though her father’s family once lived in Pyongyang before moving south prior to the Korean War. For the past couple of months, Oh has been back in her parents’ motherland documenting her Seoulicious adventures for her YouTube fans. In this set of videos, she explores Korean culture and cuisine with the gusto of a connoisseur. “Korea’s traditional course meals are like Christmas in your mouth,” she said. “Just

when you think the last dish in a long parade has been served and your stomach reaches maximum capacity, another set of colorful dishes arrives.” She says that for those of us trying to learn Korean, whether we’re lazily meandering along or stressing out about it Korean style, at least we are in the right country: “The best way to learn any language is to go to its native country. You can’t get any more real than that. If moving to Korea is a stretch, continue to watch your favorite Korean dramas and practice singing K-pop songs. You’ll pick up on words, mannerisms and develop your pronunciation.” Looking ahead, Oh aspires to write a book or two and produce her own Korean drama. For the past few years she’s been developing a story using the KWOW cast with a Korean drama feel. You may even catch her honing her voice high in the Korean mountains. “As much as I enjoy K-pop, I love pansori (a Korean genre of musical storytelling) even more. It’s admirable how the singers strengthen their voices by practicing next to waterfalls,” she said. “All I need to do now is turn off the technology, lock myself in a room and focus only on writing. Someone can serve me food through a thin opening under the door. If that’s what it takes to make a dream come true, so be it.”

More info

Check out Mina Oh at sweetandtastytv.com, on YouTube at sweetandtasty or on Facebook and Twitter at sweetandtastyTV.

COMMUNITY Edited by Jenny Na (jenny@groovekorea.com)

Kick ass and melt the pudge away Body & Seoul shapes up in a new location Story and Photos by Shelley DeWees

nna Desmarais is a hard-bodied fighter, but she never thought she would be. “Not at any time could I have imagined going to fighting competitions — not ever,” she says. “I was totally out of shape!” This is hard to believe when you see her now, a teeny little spritz of a girl with her hands jammed into boxing gloves; she could probably kill someone with her pinky, though she’d do it oh-so-politely. Standing on the squishy red floor at Body & Seoul, a popular fitness center above Craftworks in Noksapyeong, Desmarais makes a great case for martial arts and isn’t afraid to laud its benefits. “The inner confidence, strength and sense of discipline you gain is incomparable to any other hobby I know,” she says. “And all the while you’re getting in great shape, having fun, making friends and learning new things. I mean, what more can you ask for?” Inspired, motivated and longing for a place to practice her hobby, Desmarais threw some money together and opened up Body & Seoul in 2010. It’s been going strong ever since, attracting folks from all over the city: English teachers, diplomats, businesspeople and stay-at-home moms all train together under the easily forged bond of a mutual goal. “It’s become a center for expat life,” she says, “a non-pretentious place where everyone receives world-

76 www.groovekorea.com / April 2014

class training in a relaxed environment. There aren’t many gyms in the world where you hear so much laughter.” That’s not to say there isn’t a serious amount of work going on here. Muay Thai, Brazilian jiu-jitsu, no-gi grappling and Krav Maga classes meet multiple times each week in between sessions of yoga, Pilates and yogalates (a combination of the two). But the most popular class is FightFit, which, despite the name, doesn’t involve fighting. “Lots of people take this class on its own to get in shape quickly, regardless of whether they intend to join our martial arts classes,” Desmarais explains, “but often they’ll try some other things in conjunction with FightFit and end up loving it.” FightFit accommodates all levels of fitness and is a favorite among newcomers at Body & Seoul, but it’s a wicked workout for everyone involved (the sweat mop comes out after every class). But words of encouragement fly freely from the instructors, lessening the intimidation factor and availing members to a pure, powerful, ass-kicking experience that’ll melt the pudge away. Unsurprisingly, Body & Seoul’s devoted following has long outgrown the modest space, and Desmarais has answered the call for expansion. “Our new place is double the size, full of new equipment and conveniently located just up the street from

‘The inner confidence, strength and sense of discipline you gain is incomparable to any other hobby I know, and all the while you’re getting in great shape, having fun, making friends and learning new things. I mean, what more can you ask for?’ Anna Desmarais, Body & Seoul founder

where we are now,” she says. “New classes will be offered, too, along with extra sessions of the old favorites like FightFit and yoga, and we’ll even be able to start teaching a few in Korean for those less comfortable with English.” Despite all the changes, Body & Seoul members will still enjoy the same prices and payment plans as before, and new members will be welcomed with more than a few perks. “We’ve got some specials coming up for newbies only,” Desmarais says. “Come try us out!” Body & Seoul’s new location is above Tous Les Jours in Gyeongnidan and opened last month. Monthly membership fees are based on class attendance per week, starting at 65,000 won (you’ll get a discount if you pay for multiple months at a time) and going up to 160,000 won for an unlimited membership. A 20,000 won start-up fee is also required, but it’s waived if you sign up for two months or more. If you just want to drop in for a look, that’s okay, too — 15,000 won is all you need for a one-class pass.

More info

Find them at www.seoulmartialarts.com or on Facebook at Body & Seoul Martial Arts and Fitness Center.

CAPTURING KOREA Edited by Josh Foreman (joshforeman@groovekorea.com)

Bringing out the color in an ancient fortress Photos by Jeffree Vallejos Interview by Dylan Goldby

Hwaseong Haenggung ISO: 100 Shutter Speed: 1/80sec Focal Length: 16mm F-stop: f14 One needs to stand near the corner of the stage and use an ultrawide lens to capture a similar picture.

78 www.groovekorea.com / April 2014

CAPTURING KOREA Edited by Josh Foreman (joshforeman@groovekorea.com)

A view of Hwahongmu pond from Dongbuk Poru ISO: 100 Shutter Speed: 1/40sec Focal Length: 8mm F-stop: f13 An ultrawide lens is required to take a similar photo.

CAPTURING KOREA Edited by Josh Foreman (joshforeman@groovekorea.com)

82 www.groovekorea.com / April 2014

effree Vallejos is a structural engineer working for Daelim Industrial Corporation. He started taking photos in 2011 after buying a Nikon D7000. He just wanted to take pictures of himself and his wife, and his old point-and-shoot wasn’t cutting it. He learned fast. For this month’s Capturing Korea, he shot Suwon’s historic Hwaseong Fortress. Groove Korea: Give our readers an introduction to yourself as a person, and as a photographer. Jeffree Vallejos: I started by taking pictures of my wife at first, just using the automatic settings of my camera like portrait, landscape, candle, close-up, etc. Later on, I took photos of flowers, food, toys and other boring subjects. Then one day, I saw on Facebook a nice blue hour photo from someone who later turned out to be one of my favorite blue hour photographers — Yen Baet — and I was like, wow, this is cool! From that point in time, my interest in photography suddenly grew as I wanted to at least emulate her photos. A few months passed and I found my true love: landscape photography and, to some extent, portrait photography. (My wife would kill me if I took more landscape shots than portrait shots of her!) Suwon Hwaseong Fortress is a fairly popular location for people to visit. What makes it a great place to photograph? I live in Seoul and I started to grow weary of the buildings, shopping malls, crowded streets and other structures, so I told myself, why not try Suwon Fortress? Since I am a landscape photographer, I think this is the best place to take photos of a mountain (Mount Paldal) and other man-made features of landscapes. For less than an hour of travel via KTX from Yeongdeungpo-gu, this is one of the closest things to nature.

Hwahongmu pond ISO: 250 Shutter Speed: 1.6sec Focal Length: 8mm F-stop: f4.5 An ultrawide lens and a stable tripod are required to take a similar photo.

What sort of things are you looking for when you compose photos of a place like Suwon Hwaseong Fortress? I try to create a composition by using the walls as the leading line. The walls guide the viewer’s eyes through the photo. However, this is sometimes difficult to achieve since I need to be at a higher elevation and away from the fortress to get a nice photo. In cases like this, I resort to just isolating a subject (a gate in particular) and finding a nice foreground. I also try to present the subject in an unusual point of view to make it more interesting, like shooting from a low or very low vantage point or shooting very near to the subject. Your photos all seem to be taken in the period from just before sunset to just after twilight. What makes that a good time to photograph the fortress? The colors are warm the hour before sunset and add great interest to a subject or to the overall composition. After the so-called Golden Hour, there comes again another brief period called Blue Hour where the color of the sky turns blue; it coincides with the time when the fortress is lit up with warm and colorful lights. This is the time when most people would call it a day and head back home. For landscape photographers like me, this is just the beginning of the grand finale. Hence, shooting just before sunset through to twilight enables me to capture great photos because of the quality of light and colors during these periods.

Janganmun ISO: 100 Shutter Speed: 1.5sec Focal Length: 8mm F-stop: f14 Apart from a wide lens and a tripod, you need some luck to take a photo without people walking in the frame. Otherwise, you can resort to a long exposure to “remove” moving people.

What else is near the fortress that makes for a good visit? There’s this place inside the fortress (Yeonmudae) that lets one experience traditional archery. For a low price,one can experience wearing Korea’s traditional clothes and shooting conventional bows. The tour train is also available for those who want to enjoy the nice scenery. It runs from Mount Paldal to Yeonmudae and hits Hwaseomun, Jangan Park, Janganmun and Hwahongmun along the way, and vice versa heading home. The travel time is 30 minutes (one way). This service, however, is not available on rainy or snowy days. 83

LISTINGS

Edited by Sean Choi (sean@groovekorea.com)

EMBASSIES American Embassy (02) 397-4114 • 188 Sejong-daero, Jongnogu, Seoul Canadian Embassy (02) 3783-6000 • (613) 996-8885 (Emergency Operations Center) Jeongdong-gil (Jeongdong) 21, Jung-gu, Seoul British Embassy (02) 3210-5500 • Sejong-daero 19-gil 24, Jung-gu, Seoul Australian Embassy (02) 2003-0100 • 19th fl, Kyobo bldg., 1 Jongno 1-ga, Jongno-gu, Seoul Philippine Embassy (02) 796-7387~9 • 5-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Spanish Embassy (02) 794-3581 • 726-52 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul French Embassy (02) 3149-4300 • 30 Hap-dong, Seodaemungu, Seoul

TRAVEL AGENTS Fides Travel (02) 755 5470 • fidestravel.co.kr Prime Travel (02) 6739 3570 Shoe String Travel (02) 333 4151 • shoestring.kr/eng/abo01.htm Soho Travel (02) 322 1713 • sohoholiday.com Top Travel Service (02) 737 4289 • toptravel.co.kr/eng Unique Travel (02) 792 0606

DOMESTIC TOURS Adventure Korea (010) 4242-5536 • adventurekorea.com Discover Korea (02) 398-6571 • www.discoverkoreatour.com/en

Explore Korea • sonyaexplorekorea.com Joy Leisure Service (02) 2307-8642 • joyleisures.com Panmunjom Travel Center (02) 771-5593 • koreadmztour.com Seoul City Tour (02) 774-3345 • seoulcitytour.net Tour DMZ (02) 755-0073 • www.tourdmz.com Travel Pants Korea (010) 9961 5765 •travelpantskorea.com

HOTELS & RESORTS Sheraton Grande Walkerhill (02) 455-5000 • 177 Walkerhill-ro, Gwangjin-gu, Seoul

Seoul Samsung Hospital 1599-3114 • 50 Irwon-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

Seoul Intl. School 031-750-1200 • 388-14 Bokjeong-dong, Sujeong-gu, Seongnam, Gyeonggi-do

Asan Medical Center 1688-7575 • 88 Olympic-ro 43-gil, Songpa-gu, Seoul

Branksome Hall Asia (02) 6456-8405 • Daejung-eup, Seogipo-si, Jeju Island

Keimyung University Dongsan Medical Center (053) 250-7167 (7177 / 7187) • 56 Dalseongro, Jung-gu, Daegu

Daegu Intl. School (053) 980-2100 • 1555 Bongmu-dong, Dong-gu, Daegu

Airlines Korean Air 1588-2001 Asiana Airlines 1588-8000 Lufthansa (02) 2019-0180

Novotel Ambassador Gangnam (02) 567-1101 • 603 Yeoksam 1-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

Garuda Indonesia (02) 773-2092 • garuda-indonesia.co.kr

Grand Hilton Seoul (02) 3216-5656 • 353 Yeonhui-ro, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul

Jeju Air 1599-1500

Somerset Palace Seoul (02) 6730-8888 • 85 Susong-dong, Jongnogu, Seoul Park Hyatt Seoul (02) 2016-1234 • 606 Teheran-ro, Gangnamgu, Seoul Lotte Hotel Busan (051) 810-1000 • 772 Gaya-daero, Busanjin-gu, Busan Park Hyatt Busan (051) 990-1234 • 51, Marine City 1-ro, Haeundae-gu, Busan 612-824, Korea

EMERGENCY MEDICAL CENTERS Gangnam St-Mary’s Hospital 1588-1511 • 222 Banpo-daero, Seocho-gu, Seoul Yonsei Severance Hospital (Sinchon) (02) 2227-7777 • 50 Yonsei-ro, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul Seoul National University Hospital 1339 • 28-2 Yeongeon-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul

Dulwich College Seoul (02) 3015-8500 • 5-1 Banpo 2-dong, Seochogu, Seoul The curriculum from toddler to IGCSE (ages 18 months to 16 years) follows the best practice of the early years foundation stage framework and English national curriculum enhanced for an international setting. admissions@dulwich-seoul.kr www.dulwich-seoul.kr

DET U R

P O N S MU

NDO

T’way Air 1688-8686 Jin Air 1600-6200

AMUSEMENT PARKS

British Airways (02) 774-5511

Everland Resort (031) 320-5000 • 310 Jeondae-ri, Pogok-eup, Cheoin-gu, Yongin-si, Gyeonggi-do

Cathay Pacific Airways (02) 311-2700 Delta Airlines (02) 754-1921 Emirates Airlines (02) 2022-8400

FAMILY & KIDS INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS Chadwick International 032-250-5000 • 17-4 Songdo-dong, Yeonsugu, Incheon Yongsan Intl. School (02) 797-5104 • San 10-213 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

Lotte World (02) 411-2000 0 • 240 Olympic-ro, Songpagu, Seoul Pororo Park (D-Cube city) 1661-6340 • 360-51 Sindorim-dong, Guro-gu, Seoul Pororo Park (Jamsil) 1661-6371 • 40-1 Jamsil-dong, Songpa-gu, Seoul Children’s Grand Park (zoo) (02) 450-9311 • 216 Neungdong-ro, Gwangjin-gu, Seoul Seoul Zoo (02) 500-7338 • 159-1 Makgye-dong, Gwacheon-si, Gyeonggi-do

070-7504-8090 84 www.groovekorea.com / April 2014

Oriental massage spa in Itaewon at a reasonable price.

3rd fl. 124-7 Itaewon 1-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul 12pm-9pm

BOOKSTORES

UROLOGY & OB

What The Book (02) 797-2342 • 176-2, Itaewon 1-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul • whatthebook.com Located in Itaewon, this English bookstore has new books, used books and children’s books.

Tower Urology (02) 2277-6699 •5th fl. 119 Jongno 3-ga, Jongno-gu, Seoul

Kim & Johnson 1566-0549 • B2 fl-1317-20 Seocho-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul

HEALTH DENTAL CLINICS

UPENNIVY dental (02) 797-7784 • 300-26 Ichon 1-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Mir Dental (053) 212-1000 • 149-132 Samdeok-dong 2-ga, Jung-gu, Daegu Esarang Dental Clinic (02) 701-2199 • 26-16 Singongdeok-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul Chungdam UPENN dental (02) 548-7316 • 131-20 Cheongdam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul SKIN CLINICS TengTeng skin (02) 337-4066 • 10th floor, First avenue Building, Nonhyeon 1-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul If you have a skin problem, Dr. Julius Jon will take good care of you. English is spoken. Nova Skin (02) 563-7997 • 2 floor A Tower, 822-1, Yeoksam 1-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul ORIENTAL MEDICINE Lee Moon Won Korean Medicine Clinic (02) 511-1079 • 3rd fl., Lee&You bldg., 69-5 Chungdam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Specializes in hair loss and scalp problems and offers comprehensive treatments and services including aesthetic and hair care products. Soseng Clinic (02) 2253-8051• 368-90 Sindang 3-dong, Jung-gu, Seoul Yaksan Obesity Clinic (02) 582-4246 • 1364-7, Seocho 2-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul www.dryaksan.com

Yeon & Nature OB GYN (02) 518-1300 •10th - 11th Floor Teun Teun Hospital 71-3 (Yeongdongdaero 713) Gangnam-gu, Cheongdam-dong, Seoul

MUSEUM & GALLERIES National Museum of Korea (02) 2077-9000 • 168-6 Yongsandong 6-ga, Yongsan-gu, Seoul The NMK offers educational programs on Korean history and culture in English and Korean. National Palace Museum of Korea (02) 3701-7500 • 12 Hyoja-ro, Jongno-gu, Seoul This museum has a program called ‘Experiencing Royal Culture’ designed for English teachers to help learn about Joseon royal culture. Seodaemun Museum of Natural History (02) 330-8899 • 141-52 Yeonhui-dong, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul Don’t know where to take your kids on weekends? This museum exhibits a snapshot of the world and animals. National Museum of Contemporary Art, Korea (02) 2188-6000 • 313 Gwangmyeong-ro, Gwacheon-si, Gyeonggi-do Leeum Samsung Museum of Art (02) 2014-6901• 747-18 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul 10:30 a.m.-6 p.m. Closed on Mondays, New Year’s Day, Lunar New Year and Chuseok holidays Kumho Museum (02) 720-5114 • 78 Sagan-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul 10 a.m.-6 p.m. Closed on Mondays Gallery Hyundai (02) 734-6111~3 • 22 Sagan-dong, Jongnogu, Seoul It’s the first specialized art gallery in Korea and accommodates contemporary arts. 10 a.m.-6 p.m. Closed on Mondays, New Year’s Day, Lunar New Year and Chuseok holidays

Plateau (02) 1577-7595 • 50 Taepyung-ro 2-ga, Jung-gu, Seoul 10 a.m.-6 p. m. Closed on Mondays. FITNESS National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art, Seoul Reebok Crossfit Sentinel (MMCA SEOUL) (02) 790-0801 • reebokcrossfitsentinel.com (02) 3701-9500 • 30 Samcheong-ro, Sogyeok-dong, World Gym Jongro-gu, Seoul Yeouido (02) 782-1003 Gangnam (02) 2052-0096 Daegu Art Museum Ilsan (031) 932-7010 (053) 790-3000 • 374 Samdeok-dong, Busan (051) 758-5554 Suseong-gu, Daegu • www.asiaworldgym.com Art space for local culture presenting Daegu’s contemporary fine arts and internationally Body & Seoul renowned artists. 010-6397-2662 • www.seoulmartialarts.com

Restaurants AMERICAN & BRUNCH

JAPANESE

Jo’s Basket Grill & Dining (02) 744-0701 • 31-37 Dongsoong-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul

Jin Donburi (02) 2235 1123 • 103-9 Jeodong 1-ga, Junggu, Seoul The chef here trained in Japan and serves an authentic Japanese-style donburi (donkatsu over rice) at an affordable price. Gatsudon goes for 6,000 won.

KOREAN & BBQ Small Happiness in the Garden (02) 975-3429 • 28-3 Jeodong 1-ga, Jung-gu, Seoul Jang Sa Rang (02) 546-9994 • 624-47 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul The menu at this traditional Korean restaurant ranges from classic kimchi pancakes and stone pot rice to an array of meats and veggies.

Dr. Oh’s King-size Donkatsu / O Baksane Donkatsu (02) 3673 5730 • 131-32 Seongbuk-dong, Seongbuk-gu, Seoul The place serves donkatsu the size of a car wheel. The restaurant dares you to finish it in one sitting.

Ondal (02) 450-4518 • 177 Walkerhill-ro, Gwangjin-gu, Seoul Looking to impress a date or a business partner? Head to the premier traditional Korean restaurant in Seoul.

Myeongdong Donkatsu (02) 776 5300 • 59-13 Myeong-dong 1-ga, Jung-gu, Seoul This is the most popular and oldest Japanese-style donkatsu restaurant in Myeong-dong. Try the wasabi.

Hadongkwan (02) 776-5656 • 10-4 Myungdong 1-ga, Jung-gu, Seoul This place simply has the best gomtang (beef soup) in Seoul.

Namsan Donkatsu (02) 777-7929 • 49-24 Namsandong 2-ga, Jung-gu, Seoul Since 1992, this casual Korean-style donkatsu restaurant has been a favorite of Namsan hikers and taxi drivers.

Two Plus (02) 515 5712 • B1 fl. 532-9 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Served here is a high-quality beef loin at a reasonable price. Tosokchon (Samgyetang) (02) 737 7444 • 85-1 Chebu-dong, Jongnogu, Seoul A popular Korean-style chicken soup with ginseng is popular at this place. Former presidents enjoyed this restaurant. A soup costs just 15,000 won.

INTERNATIONAL Battered Sole (02) 322-8101 • 52-23 Changcheon-dong, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul Battered Sole is a relative newcomer, but they serve up some of the best fish and chips in Korea. This is the real deal. Simply India (02) 744 6333• 1-79 Dongsung-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul

THAI & VIETNAMESE

VEGETARIAN

Pho Hoa (02) 792-8866 • 737-4, Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

So True (02) 549 7288 • Jinseong Building, 58-6 Samseong-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul. blog.naver.com/julieintoday

ITALIAN & FRENCH Pizza Hill (02) 450-4699 • 177 Walkerhill-ro, Gwangjingu, Seoul The first restaurant to serve pizza in Korea. MEXICAN & TEX-MEX Dos Tacos (Gangnam) (02) 593-5904 • 104 Dessian Luv, 1303-35 Seocho-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul The best and largest taco franchise in Korea; try out their shrimp potato burrito. Grill5taco (02) 515-5549 • 519-13 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

86 www.groovekorea.com / April 2014

DONGATSU

Sanchon (02) 735 0312 • 14 Gwanghun-dong, Jongnogu, Seoul www.sanchon.com Veggie Holic 070 4114 0458 • 204-59 Donggyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul www.veggieholic.co.kr March Rabbit (02) 3444-4514 • 560 Sinsa-dong, Gangnamgu, Seoul Daegu 5th Lounge (053) 764-3579 •207-10 Doosan-dong, Suseong-gu, Daegu This fabulous lounge does just about everything right. If you’re in search of space for private parties, this is the place.

Night club G’day (American & Brunch) (053) 746-1217 •980-9 Suseongdong 4-ga, Suseong-gu, Daegu This Aussie brunch cafe serves the best brunch in Daegu at the best price. www.facebook.com/CafeGday The Paris (Italian & French) (053) 763-8998 • 207-10 Doosan-dong, Suseong-gu, Daegu This place offers fine dining in one of the few authentic French restaurants in town. Dos Tacos (Mexican & Tex-Mex) (053) 255-4885 • 34-4 Dongsung-ro 2-ga, Jung-gu, Daegu

Italy & Italy (Italian / French) (053) 423- 5122 • 22-2, Samdeok-dong 1-ga, Jung-gu, Daegu

The Pho [Vietnamese] (051) 256-8055 • Saeabusan town, Sinchangdong 1-ga, Jung-gu, Busan

La Luce (European) (053) 255-7614 • 40-63 Daebong-dong, Jung-gu, Daegu

The Grill On The Beach (Pub) (051) 731-9799 • B1 fl. Sea star bldg., 1417-2 Jung 1-dong, Haeundae-gu, Busan This submarine-themed pub carries international beer and a wide selection of wine.

Ariana Boccaccio Hotel Brau (Buffet) (051) 767-7913 • 200-1, Dusan-dong, Suseong-gu, Daegu Thursday Party (Bar) 21-23 Samdeok-dong 1-ga, Jung-gu, Daegu Busan

Pan Asia (International) (053) 287-7940 • 2 fl., 21-9 Samdeok-dong, Jung-gu, Daegu

Wolfhound (Haeundae, Busan) (051) 746-7913 • 1359 Woo 1-dong, Haeundae-gu, Busan

South St. (American) (053) 471-7867 • 664-10 Bongdeok 3-dong, Nam-gu, Daegu

Rock N Roll (Bar) • 2 fl, 56-5, Daeyeon 3-dong, Nam-gu, Busan

Bagel Doctor (Café) (053) 421-6636 • Samdeokdong 2-ga, Junggu, Daegu Miyako (Japanese) (053) 761-5555 • 402-5 Sang-dong, Suseonggu, Daegu Beyond Factory (Italian/café) (053) 255-7614 • 40-63 Daebong-dong, Jung-gu, Daegu

Wolfhound [Irish Pub] (051) 746-7913 • 2 fl, 1359, U 1-dong, Haeundae-gu, Busan Fuzzy Navel [Mexican Pub] (051) 754- 6349 • 178-13, Millak-dong, Suyeong-gu, Busan Farmer’s Hamburger [American] (051) 244-5706 • 35-1 Daechungdong 2-ga, Jung-gu, Busan

Paniere(Café) (051) 817-8212 • 225-1 Bujeon-dong, Jin-gu, Busan The European-style brunch restaurant/café serves fresh fruit juice and sandwiches.

DRINKS BEER AND COCKTAILS Big Rock (02) 539-6650 • B1 818-8, Yeoksam 1-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul This place imports premium beer from Alberta. Its comfortable atmosphere and huge space is perfect for just about every occasion.

Octagon •175-2 Nonhyeon-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Cocoon •364-26 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul Eden •Ritz Carlton 602 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnamgu, Seoul Elune •1408-5 Jung 1-dong, Haeundae-gu, Busan Mass •1306-8 Seocho 4-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul

Massage, Spa & Beauty Lucy Hair (02) 325-2225 • 2 floor, 30-10, Chandcheondong, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul Look your best effortlessly with the help of Lucy. Her internationally trained hair stylists treat your locks with the best hair products in a modern and cozy environment.

Once in a Blue Moon (02) 549. 5490 •85-1 Chungdam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul A live jazz club Seoul that hosts renowned musicians from Korea and around the world.

All menu items 10,000 won Steak meal 20,000 won Without compromising on quality and taste, Bennigan’s is the first family restaurant in the business to serve such carefully selected ingredients and the best taste at a flat price.

The smartest way to spend 10,000 won!

DISTRACTIONS

Comics

88 www.groovekorea.com / April 2014

Games Crosswords - Sudoku

Across 1. Temporary quarters 5. Govt. agent 9. Rodgers collaborator 13. Voodoo kin 15. Prevalent 16. “There oughta be __” 17. Hose hue 18. Butt in 20. Flowed copiously 22. Base action? 23. Sleep like __ 24. Prodded

25. Religion of Japan 28. Some Europeans 29. Murderer 31. Not bad 35. Nincompoop 36. Longed 39. Part of the Internet 40. Easing of tensions 42.“Love Story” star 44. Monopoly piece 47. Accomplishments 48. Modified

51. Commotion 52. Pressure 53. Geometric curve 57. Bullfighters 59. Unearth 60. __ buco 61. Module 62. Dictator of ancient Rome 63. Shoal 64. Fleshy fruit 65. Go soft

19. Gather leaves 21. Sculptor Henry 24. City on the Ganges 25. “Shoo!” 26. The sound of silence 27. “__ Wonderful Life” 28. Hall of fame in music 30. Had a row? 32. “A Prayer for __ Meany” 33. Loot 34. Night birds 37. Biblical witch’s home 38. Thingmajigs

41. About which 43. Metallic element 45. Killer whale 46. Got ready to drive 48. Thespian 49. Unstructured 50. Succinct 51. Discernment 53. Stiffly formal 54. Eye amorously 55. Calm interval 56. Get __ on the back 58. “Double Fantasy” artist

Down 1. Male swans 2. Aid in crime 3. Former Israeli P.M. 4. Show 5. Norwegian composer 6. Look after 7. Tailward, on planes 8. “Schindler’s List” actor 9. Unfortunate 10. So all can hear 11. Dreadlocks wearer 12. Chirp 14. Well

DISTRACTIONS

April 2014

Horoscopes Aries

March 20 - April 20

Your ability to get straight to the point will serve you well at work this month. Your supervisors want to solve a problem without beating around the bush. You’ll be in control when it comes to romance. Express your true feelings for a close friend and he or she will reciprocate. Leo is involved.

Taurus

April 21 - May 21

Your stubborn nature will work to your advantage at work in the middle of the month. While others look for a quick fix, you’ll hold out until a long-term solution is found, getting you recognized by the higher-ups. A close friend will need your help this month. Be supportive and help out.

Gemini

May 22 - June 21

Friends will look to you to lead the way this month. They’ll ask you to plan an outing for the whole group. While you’re not used to the role of leader, take this opportunity to break the monotony. Work will seem boring early in the month. Enjoy it while it lasts; it will be crazy by month’s end.

Cancer

June 22 - July 22

You’ll certainly earn the title of “The Crab” this month. Everything will seem to get on your nerves. Try to remain calm and don’t take your frustrations out on coworkers. Go out to lunch instead of eating in the office. Meeting some friends after work will help ease your tension.

Leo

July 23 - August 23

Get to the heart of family matters this month. Talk to loved ones and find out what’s wrong. Don’t let your pride get in the way of getting to the bottom of things. However, you shouldn’t let family affairs affect you at work. Superiors will be considering you for a promotion.

Virgo

August 24 - September 23

Be wary when a coworker asks to borrow money — you’ll be needing to make a large purchase before the end of the month. Is he or she reliable? A close friend will be there for you. Don’t be afraid to confide in him or her. He or she has your best interest at heart.

90 www.groovekorea.com / April 2014

Libra

September 24 - October 23

Work will go by quickly this month because you’ll be busy working on a new and interesting project. Enjoy it, but don’t forget to take some time for yourself. Let your enthusiasm for your job flow over into your personal life. Share your excitement with friends and loved ones.

Scorpio

October 24 - November 22

Love plays an important role in your life this month. You meet someone whom you can’t get off of your mind. Instead of daydreaming about him or her, make a move. Ask him or her out and you’ll find that you won’t be disappointed. Aquarius and Capricorn are involved.

Sagittarius

November 23 - December 21

Be brave at work in the middle of the month. You’ll think that there’s a conspiracy against you because everything will go wrong, but don’t get discouraged; you’re just going through a bad time. Your family life will make up for it. You’ll have a great time with loved ones this month.

Capricorn

December 22 - January 19

A close friend will be the bright spot in your life this month. You’ll be happier than you have been in a long time and everything will seem to go right. It even will make work easier. You won’t get frustrated by workplace politics and the month will fly by.

Aquarius

January 20 - February 18

You’ll have your freedom at work this month. Your superiors will give you free reign over an important project and it’s your time to shine. Take every opportunity! Your analytical mind will help you make the best decisions. Pisces is involved.

Pisces

February 19 - March 19

Your compassion will be called on by loved ones this month. Help them calm down and try to boost their spirits. They’ve always been there for you. A close friend will bring you good news at the end of the month. It will give you an optimistic outlook on life.

COLUMN • YONSEI UNIversity dental hospital

A clean mouth is the best way to get rid of bad breath Making a first impression is important for everyone, and a big minus to that first impression could be having bad breath.

are spots where bad breath originates. And if there is pre-existing dental decay, dentures or periodontal disease, then the bad breath gets worse. Bad breath worsens with age, but children with large tonsils or adolescents experiencing stress may have bad breath as well. Also, smokers and people who do not brush their teeth and tongue before bed may have bad breath. If there is bad breath, even if the teeth and gingiva are clean, the back of the tongue must be checked for tongue plaque and other causes (rhinitis, sinus infection, bronchitis, liver disorder, gastric disorder, diabetes and so on) must be considered. Diagnosis of bad breath is done by the use of a halitosis measurement tool. Bacterial cultures and a salivary flow test may also be used. The most prominent cause, dental plaque, can be checked by a special device known as Q-ray.

A clean mouth with proper oral hygiene control is most important

Jong-Hoon Choi, DDS, Ph.D.

For further information or reservations, call Ms. Kelly Soe, the English coordinator at Yonsei University Dental Hospital. +82 2 2228 8998 +82 2 363 0396 idc@yuhs.ac 50-1 Yonsei-ro, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul www.yuhs.or.kr/ en/hospitals/dent_ hospital/Conserv_ dentist/Intro

professor Department of Orofacial Pain and Oral Medicine, Yonsei University College of Dentistry

n the famous movie “Gone with the Wind,” the most memorable moment is the kiss scene with Vivien Leigh and Clark Gable. But during the shooting of that scene, Vivien Leigh almost fainted because of Clark Gable’s bad breath. Bad breath can influence one’s social life in a big way. Someone who has bad breath may lose confidence in talking with others, while others may be reluctant to advise you of your breath, making it hard to be aware of, let alone treat the problem.

How’s your oral hygiene?

The cause of bad breath mainly comes from the oral cavity. The tongue, interdental spaces and gums

The best way to treat bad breath is by keeping a clean mouth environment. It is necessary to brush your teeth shortly after meals and use tools such as dental floss. There is a special tool for brushing the back of the tongue called a tongue cleaner. Bad breath smells especially bad in the morning, and this is because during sleep, salivary flow decreases. So if your mouth feels dry, drink ample amounts of water. Bad breath that lingers after brushing your teeth is caused by the synthetic detergent and foaming agent in the toothpaste. This sodium lauryl sulfate may irritate the tongue and make the oral mucosa feel dry, so toothpaste without these ingredients is recommended.

Daily Care

Bad breath occurs whenever the mouth is dry, so try to drink water frequently during the night whenever you are awake. After meals, snack on fiber-rich food, like cucumbers, which can stimulate the salivary glands. Green tea is more advisable to drink than coffee. Chewing gum or gargling will only temporarily mask bad breath and might cause you to lose attention towards proper oral cleansing. A saline cleansing solution or gargle recommended by dentists is a better choice. Having routine dental exams is important, along with scaling. These techniques will help keep the bad breath away.

PROMOTIONS Edited by Sean Choi (sean@groovekorea.com)

Club Med

Kabira Beach Resort, Okinawa The premium all-inclusive resort, Club Med Kabira Beach, has recently renovated its superior rooms and will be reopening in April. Since 2010, Club Med has been gradually renovating many parts of its Kabira Beach resort to fit its new Grand Ocean View theme. Its reception area, terrace, garden and superior rooms and suites have all been updated with modern and stylish designs, allowing guests to enjoy a beautiful ocean view, comfortably and from any place in the resort complex. Club Med Kabira Beach is located along Kabira Bay, which is known to house one of the biggest coral reef ecosystems in the world. In addition, the resort has recently introduced a new marine sport called “stand up paddle,” a fun way to for guests to leave Kabira with an unforgettable memory and unusual experience. For more information, please visit www.clubmed.co.kr or contact (02) 3452-0123.

Coffee Expo Seoul 2014

Showcasing industry trends and tradition

Coffee Expo Seoul 2014, from April 10 to 13 at COEX, Korea, showcases the very best from the coffee industry — both old and new. An exclusive Mint Label zone within the exhibition will give select domestic and overseas businesses the opportunity to promote new and innovative products expected to see growth in the upcoming year. The 2013 lineup included a hand-crafted, traditional Korean– themed coffee press, a contemporary drip coffee maker and a range of newly released coffee machines, as well as frozen drinks and the ever-popular bubble tea. This year, Ethiopia, the original home of the coffee bean, has been selected as the exhibition’s official Guest Country. Alongside the hundreds of modern-day coffee-themed products, the lively Ethiopian pavilion invites guests to discover more about the origins of the world’s favorite hot beverage. A variety of green and roasted coffee beans sourced from Ethiopia will be available for tasting, and visitors may also participate in a traditional Ethiopian coffee ceremony. This year’s show will also include an ice dessert and cold beverage zone where visitors can get their fix of iced coffee, ice cream, gelato and bingsu. Korea relies almost entirely on coffee imports from around the world to fuel its skyrocketing coffee culture. Coffee Expo Seoul provides the perfect platform for both domestic and overseas businesses to forge business and trade partnerships Coffee Expo Seoul is organized by Korea’s leading convention and exhibition center, COEX, which welcomed over 36,000 visitors to its 340 exhibition booths in 2013. The trade show expects to expand substantially over the next few years, as Seoul continues to establish itself as one of the world’s coffee-drinking capitals. Sign up for free entry to Coffee Expo Seoul by visiting www.coffeexpo.co.kr/register-now. For all marketing inquiries, please call (02) 6000-1121.

92 www.groovekorea.com / April 2014

PROST pub and grill New outdoor terrace

Prost has a new outdoor terrace surrounded by trees to give guests the feel of dining in a forest. Offering a comfortable, private atmosphere, the terrace seats 50 and serves an alfresco lunch and dinner. It is simply one more reason to visit an eatery that Seoulites already count among their favorites. Prost also serves more than 15 draft beers, including Heineken Dark, Newcastle Brown and Guinness. Don’t miss out on the signature cocktails made with various kinds of syrups at the shooter bar. For reservations, call (02) 796-6854 / (010) 3230-6164.

On The Border

2014 New Mexican Menu

The authentic Mexican restaurant, On The Border, introduces two new food series: “Mexican on the Street” and “Mexican in Seoul.” The “Mexican on the Street” menu gives customers the chance to enjoy tacos, quesadillas, enchiladas and other kinds of light Mexican dishes prepared in authentic street food style. There are seven enticing dishes to feast on — including Secret Enchiladas (shrimp, carnitas), Secret Quesadillas (shrimp, carnitas) and Secret Tacos (brisket, shrimp, pulled pork) — for prices ranging from 9,900 won to 16,900 won. Meanwhile, the “Mexican in Seoul” series is a gastronomical fusion of Mexican and Korean flavors that is sure to attract both foreigners and Korean fans. By adding the penultimate Korean food — kimchi — to burritos, potatoes, taco rice and other traditional Mexican foods, On The Border has created a new flavor that’s sure to become a staple of the fusion scene. This series features four dishes: pulled pork burritos, carnitas burritos, carnitas potatoes and kimchi taco rice. For information, please call, (02) 3280-5100.

PROMOTIONS Edited by Sean Choi (sean@groovekorea.com)

Banyan Tree Club & Spa Seoul Moon Bar

Moon Bar is located on the 20th and 21st floors of the Banyan Tree Club & Spa Seoul, the hotel’s highest levels. It’s one of the best places to take in a panoramic view of Namsan and catch a breathtaking glimpse of Seoul’s impressive skyline. On its eclectic menu, Moon Bar offers a sophisticated array of Japanese food and a wide variety of snack platters, all of which are complimented by its premium whiskey selection. On the 20th floor, bartenders offer wine, champagne and seven types of cocktails that will set the scene for a celebratory evening with friends. For the refined palate, Moon Bar’s Japanese menu includes sashimi, sushi and grilled skewers, each of which is prepared by the hotel’s outstanding chefs. The 21st floor offers a more private setting. Here you’ll find a single malt whiskey bar and a more intimate atmosphere with comfortable sofa chairs designed to help guests make the most of a cozier, more relaxed gathering. Moon Bar is now presenting a special event called Thursty on the Moon (Thirsty + Thursday). The event takes place every Thursday and is a refreshing getaway that will relieve fatigue, boredom and daily stress. Enjoy a complimentary shooter cocktail as a welcome drink while enjoying the spectacular views. The festive mood is heightened by our bartenders and cocktail waitresses, who will be dressed up in glamorous costumes for the occasion. For information and reservations, please call (02) 2250-8151/2.

94 www.groovekorea.com / April 2014

Grand Hyatt Seoul Spring spa package

Grand Hyatt Seoul presents a Spring Spa Package, available through June 30, designed to bring peace of mind with the fragrance of Namsan’s flowers. The package includes a comfortable retreat in a Grand Room, which offers breathtaking views of Namsan covered in beautiful spring blossoms, along with the rejuvenating experience of a spa treatment at The Spa Grand Hyatt Seoul. The package comes with the choice of a Crushed Lemon Sugar Body Polish Treatment, an Awakening Citrus Facial Treatment or a spa credit of 150,000 won. Guests who select the Crushed Lemon Sugar Body Polish Treatment will be treated with a lemon citrus infused spa product to help soften winter-toughened skin through gentle exfoliating action and corrective skin toning, as well as moisturizing and conditioning effects. The Awakening Citrus Facial Treatment uses a light, refreshing neroli oil, which moisturizes and protects the skin from yellow dust and other toxic substances, along with a mandarin orange mask to provide intense moisture to dried, chapped skin, keeping your skin tone bright. The package finishes with a selection of herbal teas and organic cookies to help guests savor their spa experience. In addition, all guests will receive a complimentary copy of the Grand Hyatt Seoul’s garden spa music CD as a gift. Guests may opt to stay in one of the hotel’s Pure, Hypo-Allergenic Rooms for an additional charge of 30,000 won per person. These rooms are designed to eliminate up to 98 percent of airborne viruses and bacteria, in addition to pollen and other irritants that are commonly found in indoor environments. For information and reservations, please call (02) 799-8888 or visit seoul. grand.hyatt.com.

Conrad Seoul

Design Your Luxury This Spring Conrad Seoul is offering a special package, Design Your Luxury This Spring, in which guests can relish the atmosphere of spring more comfortably and leisurely in the center of the city from April to June. With the Design Your Luxury This Spring package, guests design their own packages by choosing which activities they would like to experience, along with one night’s accommodation. Guests have a choice of free breakfast for two, a restaurant voucher worth 30,000 won or a picnic set consisting of a lunch box and picnic mat. Guests can also experience the Luxury of Being Yourself package, which they design themselves according to their personal preferences. Guests who choose this package will also be able to purchase the Moon River Sailing package, which features a cruise in the highest-grade yacht offered by Seoul Marina Club & Yacht. Guests have a captivating night view of Seoul as they watch the sun set over the Han River. A yacht ride, simple snack and shuttle bus are included in the package. For information and reservations, please call (02) 6137-7777.

Sheraton Grande Walkerhill Clock16’s new weekend brunch

Make brunch the highlight of the weekend with Clock16’s new semi-brunch menu, Brunch on the Cloud. The brunch menu is available from 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. every Sunday and offers only the lightest and freshest ingredients. Take your pick between Premium Chargrilled Australian Tenderloin, Seafood Spaghetti or Grilled Salmon with Onion Cream Sauce, and enjoy an assortment of dishes including cold cuts, salads and over 10 kinds of dessert. Clock16’s new weekend brunch is priced at 60,000 won for adults, 40,000 won for children and 30,000 won for preschoolers (all inclusive of taxes and service charges). For information and reservations, please call (02) 450-4516.

PROMOTIONS Edited by Sean Choi (sean@groovekorea.com)

Grand Ambassador Seoul Strawberry-holic promotion

Lobby Lounge and Deli, located in the Grand Ambassador Seoul, is offering a dessert buffet called Strawberry-holic. Just in time for spring, the dessert buffet will be offered every weekend through April 30 from 2 p.m. to 5 p.m. Using only the freshest and sweetest strawberries, the buffet features 20 strawberry-themed desserts including strawberry tiramisu, strawberry crème brûlée, strawberry meringue and strawberry mille-feuille. Beverages include sweet strawberry-ade, Earl Grey tea and coffee. The strawberry buffet is priced at 38,000 won for adults and 19,000 won for children (taxes included). On weekdays, the Lobby Lounge and Deli also offers a great fresh strawberry dessert menu. Fresh strawberry juice, strawberry lattes and shakes, four different strawberry-ades, strawberry pizzas, soft strawberry rollcake, sweet strawberry tart, strawberry macarons and more beckon your tastebuds. Beverages are priced at 17,000 won, and when ordered along with a set menu, the prices range from 18,000 won to 35,000 won (taxes included). For information and reservations, please call the Lobby Lounge & Deli (02) 2270-3101.

96 www.groovekorea.com / April 2014

JW Marriott Hotel Seoul Two customizable spring packages

JW Marriott Hotel Seoul is offering two special spring packages. The Music “Tok” Package (available until June 30, 200 packages only) offers one night’s accommodation in a guest room fitted with a Moxie Showerhead, a wireless music playing device that showers you simultaneously with water and your favorite music — the perfect way to wash off the fine particles and pollen that fill the Seoul air in spring. The package includes one night in an Executive Room fitted with a Moxie Showerhead, a complimentary Kohler spa kit and towel set and two bottles of Just Juice, made from 100 percent green-grown fruit. Guests choosing this package will also enjoy access to the Executive Lounge on the 30th floor, with benefits including an evening happy hour and a relaxing morning breakfast. The Music “Tok” Package is priced at 315,000 won (plus tax and service charge) and is available only on weekends (Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays). The Green “Tok” Package includes a special picnic set designed to be enjoyed in a park near the hotel, making it the ideal way to enjoy the beginning of spring. The package includes one night in a Superior Room, plus tomato and mozzarella sandwiches and coconut juice for two from the Deli Shop. A variety of options for excursions around the hotel are available, including Seoripul Park, the Banpocheon Stream walking trail, Montmartre Park and the Banpo Hangang Riverside Park. The Green “Tok” Package is priced from 265,000 won (plus tax and service charge). Both packages also include access to the hotel fitness club, the largest of its kind in Asia, and the hotel swimming pool. For information and reservations, please call (02) 6282.6282

Strategically located in downtown Seoul, Gangbuk district, Somerset Palace offers secure and comfortable accommodation for business travel, holiday, extended stay or relocation. Our serviced residence is right in the heart of the city’s diplomatic, business and financial districts, and just 3 to 5 minutes’ walk from the Anguk, Jonggak and Kwanghwamun subway stations. Discover at your leisure the many restaurants, shopping and entertainment venues located along Insa-Dong and throughout the Jongno-Gu area. Because life is about living. For rates or bookings, please call +822-67308000 or visit www.somerset.com

Somerset Palace Seoul is managed by The Ascott Limited, a member of CapitaLand. It is the largest international serviced residence owner-operator with more than 200 properties in over 70 cities across Asia Pacific, Europe and the Gulf region. It operates three award-winning brands Ascott, Citadines and Somerset.

PROMOTIONS Edited by Sean Choi (sean@groovekorea.com)

Park Hyatt Busan

Spring blossom package at Lumi Spa Lumi Spa at Park Hyatt Busan is offering traditional European-style treatments with a beautiful view of Haeundae Beach and Gwangan Bridge, available as the newly launched Spring Blossom Package that arrives just in time for the upcoming spring season from March to May. The Spring Blossom Package is the perfect choice to revitalize and brighten dry and lifeless skin, helping you to remove dead cells and recover your body’s overall balance through an organic oil body massage. After a special body scrub treatment with French pumice lasting 40 minutes, guests are then able to choose a 50-minute program of either Organic Aromatic or Rebalance Body Massage. With this package, guests are able to experience complete relaxation and emerge with new, vibrant energy for spring. The Spring Blossom Package is offered at 150,000 won on weekdays (a 25 percent discount) and at 180,000 won at weekends (a 10 percent discount). The package is available until May 31, and all prices are subject to a 10 percent tax. For information and reservations, please call (051) 990-1440.

Novotel Ambassador Busan Welcome Spring Package

Lotte Hotel Busan Black Day specials

April 14 is known as a Black Day in Korea, a holiday of sorts for singles who opted out of Valentine’s Day or White Day events. On Black Day, singles get together for jjajangmyeon, a black bean paste and noodle dish. Lotte Hotel’s Chinese restaurant Tohlim is offering Black Day specials from April 10 to 24, including a five-course menu featuring jjajangmyeon priced at 41,400 won. For information and reservations, please call (051) 810-6340/1.

98 www.groovekorea.com / April 2014

Novotel Ambassador Busan is offering its Welcome Spring Package for those who want to feel the warmth of spring. This spring package includes a one-night stay in a Superior Room, as well as a choice of two breakfast buffet meals at Seascapes or two Panini sandwich sets from the Terrace café. The package also provides free access to the fitness center and swimming pool, as well as a 30 percent discount voucher for the Busan Aquarium and 20 percent off restaurants in the hotel. Room service, the minibar, liquor and Delices are not included. Guests can also participate in various sports such as golf, squash, billiards and table tennis in the Ryan & Lillian at a 50 percent discount (except screen golf). This offer will be available until the end of May, and the price starts from 165,000 won with additional charges for weekend stays and ocean views. Prices are subject to a 10 percent service charge and 10 percent tax) For information and reservations, please call (051) 743-1234 or (051) 743-1243.