Groove Korea June 2014 by Groove Korea

Gay, Korean and HIv-positive

The fight for visibility and LGBTQ equality continues www.groovekorea.com

KOREA • Issue 92 / June 2014

Shape up and fly right Korean ring of fire The

Would you like antacid with that? Two tasters stage a spicy food showdown, Korean-style

Whether you’re looking for a running friend or a running family, the Seoul Flyers are ready to take you in

Korea Burn How a festival in the desert found its way to the peninsula

Down the

Marmot’s Hole How Robert Koehler went from a one-year stay — 17 years ago — to becoming e x p a t K o r e a ’s m o s t i n f l u e n t i a l p u n d i t

EDITORIAL

To comment, email editor@groovekorea.com

Freedom from shame and discrimination is the first step toward LGBTQ equality

Pride and progress Editorial

By Kim Thompson, Meet Market cofounder

en years ago, when I was in the process of coming out, I grilled my friends about Pride. I stated that if being queer meant I had to wear a rainbow, drink watered-down beer and march in a parade, then I’d just rather be straight. I had this misconception that being queer meant being someone totally opposite of who I am. I thought that coming out meant I had to do A-B-C. I felt this invisible, overwhelming pressure to conform to some kind of stereotype of what it meant to be out. It took me a while to grasp that Pride is not about having to do things that are opposite to my personality. It is the very opposite; it’s about having the courage to be yourself. It is rooted in a very real struggle and fight for equality and represents freedom from shame. Coming out is not limited to having to make a statement to family or friends. It is different for everyone and for me, quite simply, it has been about living without being ashamed of who I am. The first Pride parade, held on June 28, 1970, to mark the first anniversary of the Stonewall riots in New York, was an act of “outright resistance” that has since become a weekend celebrated worldwide as a day of being “out and proud.” In the past 45 years, the U.S. and many other countries have seen great changes toward LGBTQ equality. It took decades of struggle and resistance for these countries to just decriminalize same-sex relationships, much less allow same-sex marriage. In fact, it was not until 1973 that the American Psychiatric Association first declassified homosexuality as a mental disorder and it took another 17 years for the World Health Organization to declassify it in 1990.

All of these recent and rapid changes for the LGBTQ communities in the West are based and rooted in decades, even centuries, of people fighting against discrimination. So when looking at the queer Korean community, it might be easy for an outsider to make blanket statements about how they should go about bringing about change in their society or how to approach being out. However, it is important to remember just how far the queer Korean community has come in the past few years. Up until 2011, very few, if any, events for the LGBTQ/allied communities were held regularly, and now they are being organized on a consistent basis. An increasing number of Koreans are not only openly out at these events, but are also spearheading and organizing them. Things are shifting from Westerners being the face of these events to Korean citizens determining what these events look like. Something even as seemingly small as that should be celebrated as a huge step for the queer Korean community toward changing how Korean society perceives and treats them and, perhaps more importantly, how queer Koreans view themselves. On June 7, the festivities for the 15th annual Seoul Queer Culture Festival will commence under the theme of “Love Conquers Hate.” For a Korean citizen to attend Seoul Pride is as much of an act of outright resistance as it was 44 years ago at the first Pride parade at Stonewall. It is an act of courage that should be applauded. Whether or not the community here has yet to fully out itself to family and friends should not be the main point. I believe, instead, we as a community of queers and allies should examine how we can more effectively support our fellow queer and transgender Korean brothers and sisters in their march toward equality.

The Meet Market will serve as an unofficial after-party for Seoul Pride on June 7 at Club Myoung Wol Gwan in Hongdae. -Ed.

Hot on: www.groovekorea.com Music & Arts

Food

Film fests and foreigners on the peninsula (okay, my friends and I) have a tenuous relationship. One attempt at the Jeonju International Film Festival resulted in spending the better part of a long weekend sitting in DVDbangs due to every ticket being gobbled up far in advance via foreigner-inaccessible websites. That could actually be considered a rousing success compared to a Busan International Film Festival trip in 2009 when we arrived to the southern beach city to not only find all showings sold out, but proved incapable of even finding a hotel room, leaving us drunk and lying on the beach, cursing the gods for our plight. But for the last two weeks of July, the city of Bucheon, not far west of Seoul, transforms into what is arguably the most dynamic and creative film event in the country. More importantly, it’s totally accessible to foreigners.

It’s common knowledge to those with foreign palates that good cheese is hard to come by in Korea. While many expats pine for the supermarkets and specialty stores back home where cheese was plentiful and crackers always had the luxury of being adorned with a tasty accoutrement, we have sadly grown accustomed to our current cheese-less lifestyle. Gone are the days where we could frolic amongst the Brie, Parmesan or Gouda as freely as we pleased. In these dark times, many of us have given up hope. But one expat, particularly outraged and utterly disheartened by this nonsense, has decided to take matters into his own hands. Doug Huffer is an American living in the countryside in Gyeongju, and he has his very own goat cheese farm.

Puchon International Fantastic Film Fest gives marginalized genres the spotlight

Story by Ian Henderson Read it online in June or in print in July

www.groovekorea.com / June 2014

Easy cheesy

Story by Shireen Tofig Read it online in June or in print in July

CONTENTS

What’s in this issue

ISSUE 92 JU NE 2 0 1 4

34 WELCOME

04 Editorial

Freedom from shame and discrimination is the first step toward LGBTQ equality

14 Key people

Introducing some of the editors, writers and photographers behind the June issue

FOOD INSIGHT

26 HIV-POSITIVE BUT NOT ALONE

A young Korean living with HIV shares his story of survival, solitude and social stigma

30 WRITING FROM THE WRECKAGE

From the trauma of a local man’s suicide comes a literary award for LGBTQ writers

15 The inbox

A selection of our editors’ favorite articles

18 On the Cover 20

What’s on Festivals, concerts, happy hours, networking and events for every day of the month

24 the news

Gwangju anniversary marked by mass boycott; Train to Dorasan Station in DMZ resumes; Seoul’s plans will assist expatriates; Police arrest two suspects over worker exploitation; Seoul announces plans for homeless

On a scale of 1 to emergency room, how spicy does Korean food get? Armed with antacid, two expats try and find out

48 FOR THE LOVE OF FOOD

Bowing down to Bào: No-frills stir fry with some Cordon Bleu flair

50 More than COD

Battered Sole gets ready for another beating in Itaewon. Luckily, our favorite fish ‘n’ chips pub has learned a few new moves

Opinions and feedback from readers

16 Must reads

44 THE KOREAN RING OF FIRE

40 SMILE,YOU’RE ON NORTH KOREAN TV

52 HOW TO MILK AN ALMOND

Making your own almond milk is easier than it looks

Advice for our president, criticism for Washington and (vaguely) countercultural views: Is this the North’s answer to the Daily Show?

42 BANKING METHODS

Explore the pros and cons of making a trip to meet your friendly, neighborhood bank teller

COVER STORY

34 ROBERT KOEHLER’S KOREA

Seventeen years in, triple threat Robert Koehler (editor, journalist, photographer) discusses his evolution from cultural critic to Korea sympathizer

Check out our GrooveCast episodes on these stories at groovekorea.com.

CONTENTS

What’s in this issue

ISSUE 92 JU NE 2 0 1 4

66 Destinations

MYANMAR A backpacker explores the fine line between pristine Buddhist pagodas and the nation’s dark, colonial history

A TEMPLE STAY FOR THE TIRELESS Eat, sleep, become a warrior monk. All in a day’s exhausting work at a temple outside Gyeongju

62 SAMCHEOK

Between the caves and the penis statues, Samcheok is worth seeing for the rocks and the hard places

Music & Arts

KOREA BURN A nomadic art festival modeled after California’s “Burning Man”: If you speak steampunk hipster fluently, your mothership just landed

70 URBAN EXPLORATION

From middle schools and mental hospitals to the occasional morgue, abandoned spaces are an inspiration for photographer Joseph Jung

72 KEEPIN’ IT GROOVY

A touch of jazz, a dash of funk, a splash of blues and a sprinkle of pop, Pentasonic is the perfect cocktail for a psychedelic Friday night

74 BAEKMA

Rock quartet Baekma kicks ass, takes names and reclaims a slang term for promiscuous foreign women

ARTIST’S JOURNEY A passionate sound technician brings quality recording to Korea with Black Swan Audio

78 AT THE BOX OFFICE

Capturing Korea

86 THE last shot

WiNK Travel’s staff photographer gives a nod to the lanterns and tea fields of South Gyeongsang Province.

“Transformers: Age of Extinction” (June 26) “Edge of Tomorrow” (June 4)

79 DVD CORNER

“Born to Sing (전국노래자랑)” “My Paparotti (파파로티)”

Community

KICKING UP DIRT Seoul’s Ultimate Frisbee players have a league of their own, but no field

82 COMPETITION COUNTDOWN

Ireland’s most-attended sport has a place in Korea, and the Seoul Gaels plan to be the champions

84 SHAPE UP AND FLY RIGHT

Come for the community, stay for the support: The Seoul Flyers running club goes much further than fitness

Check out our GrooveCast episodes on these stories at groovekorea.com.

Distractions

GROOVE LISTINGS Doctors, travel agencies, restaurants, hotels, airlines, nightclubs and more

COMICS

GAMES

HOROSCOPES

100

PROMOTIONS A selection of deals from around Korea

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Credits - Contributors

KE Y PE OPLE

Some of the editors, writers and photographers behind this month’s issue

KOREA 4th floor, Shinwoo Bldg. 5-7 Yongsan 3-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul, Korea.

Contact Info (010) 5348-0212 / (02) 6925-5057 For Advertising ads@groovekorea.com For General Inquiries info@groovekorea.com E D I TORI A L Editorial Director Elaine Ramirez elaine@groovekorea.com Insight Editor Matthew Lamers mattlamers@groovekorea.com Community Editor Jenny Na jenny@groovekorea.com Music & Arts Editor Emilee Jennings emilee@groovekorea.com Food & Destinations Editor Shelley DeWees shelley@groovekorea.com Editor-at-large John M. Rodgers jmrseoul@gmail.com Senior Copy Editor Jaime Stief Copy Editors Daniel Deacon, Karie Schulenburg, Kevin Lee Selzer GrooveCast Host Chance Dorland chance@groovemedia.co.kr A RT & D E S I G N Art Director Park Seong-eun sam@groovekorea.com Illustration Director Wilfred Lee wilfred@groovemedia.co.kr Design Adviser Prof. Kim Duck-mo M A R KE T I NG & A D M I NI S T R ATI O N CFO Steve Seung-Jin Lee steve.lee@groovekorea.com Marketing Executive Jay Park jpark@groovemedia.co.kr Manager Peter Chong yschong@groovekorea.com Accounting Choi Hye-won Web, I.T. Dan Himes danhimes@groovekorea.com W R I TE RS & P R O O F R E A D E R S

Alejandro Callirgos, Alexander Hall, Anita McKay, Anna Schlotjes, Annie Narae Lee, Anthony Levero, Beryl Sinclair, Christopher Green, Connor Dearing, Conor O’Reilly, Conrad Hughes, Daniel Deacon, Daniel Kang, Dave Hazzan, Dean Crawford, Deva Lee, Eileen Cahill, Elaine Knight, Felix Im, George Kalli, Haeryun Kang, Hyunwoo Sun, Ian Henderson, Ian McClellan, Jamie Keener, Jean Poulot, John Power, Kellie Ell, Ken Fibbe, Ken Hall, Kyndra Love, Leslie Finlay, Liam Mitchinson, Matt VanVolkenburg, Paul Sharkie, Rajnesh Sharma, Remy Raitt, Ron Roman, Ryan Ritter, Sean Maylone, Shireen Tofig, Simon Hunter-Williams, Sophie Boladeras, Stephanie Anglemyer, Timothy Cushing, Walter Stucke, Wilfred Lee

P H OTOGR AP H E R S & I L L U S TRATO RS

Andrew Faulk, Colin Dabbs, Craig Stuart, Dirk Schlottman, Don Sin, Dylan Goldby, Fergus Scott, James Kim, Jen Lee, Jessica Lia, Jon Linke, Jungeun Jang, Kevin Kilgore, Merissa Quek, Michael Hurt, Michael Roy, Min Pang, Nicholas Stonehouse, Nina Sawyer, Pat Volz, Peter DeMarco, Rob Green, Sabrina Hill, Samantha Whittaker

Executive Director Craig White craig@groovekorea.com Publisher Sean Choi sean@groovekorea.com To contribute to Groove Korea, email submissions@groovekorea.com or the appropriate editor. To write a letter to the editor, email editor@groovekorea.com. To have Groove Korea delivered to your home or business, email subscribe@groovekorea.com. To promote your event, email events@groovekorea.com. To advertise, email ads@groovekorea.com. The articles are the sole property of GROOVE MEDIA CO. Ltd. No reproduction is permitted without the express written consent of GROOVE MEDIA CO. Ltd. The opinions expressed in the magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher.

14 www.groovekorea.com / June 2014

Kellie Ell U.S.

Kellie Ell is from a small town outside of New York City, and came to Korea via San Francisco. She currently works as a writer and editor for one of Korea’s government institutes, and is also a freelance journalist. When she’s not working, she can be found on her bicycle. Kellie wrote “HIV positive but not alone” for this month’s Insight section.

Christopher Green U.K.

Christopher Green is manager of international affairs for Daily NK, the world’s premier source of inside North Korea news and opinion. He is also a Ph.D. candidate at Cambridge University and an editor of the periodical Sino-NK, where he publishes the Tumen Triangle Documentation Project, an open access journal on the China-North Korea border region.

Dean Crawford U.K.

Dean watches a lot of films, which, roughly translated, means he’s a bit of a geek and spends a lot of time in dark rooms. He’s from London, where he worked in the film industry, spending time on the sets of “Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows” and “X-Men: First Class,” among others. He is currently based in Jeonju. Dean contributes the Korean DVD Corner and At the Box Office columns.

Elaine Ramirez U.S.

Elaine tends to go wherever the wind carries her, and the most recent gust has swept her to Korea. After stints in New York and Chile, the California native now works as an editor in Seoul. When not editing for Groove or her newspaper, she’s off riding her motorbike along the Han, exploring the far corners of the peninsula, or sleeping. Elaine is Groove Korea’s Editorial Director.

Ian Henderson U.S.

Ian Henderson hails from Cape Fear, North Carolina, and has spent much of the past decade abroad. Besides pursuing a passion for linguistics, he also immerses himself in documentaries, travel, metal, trivia and merry-making. He also sets the record straight that Korea has only two seasons, not four. Ian wrote “The Korean Ring of Fire” and “Samcheok” for this month’s issue.

TH E I NB OX Groove readers’ opinions and feedback

Letter to the editor Open Doors Metropolitan Community Church is coming up on its third year of ministry in Korea. It’s been a whirlwind three years! We’ve grown from a first meeting of eight expats in 2011 to a congregation averaging 30 individuals on Sunday mornings and an online congregation of more than 200. Our first service was comprised only of non-Koreans; now, Korean congregants outnumber non-Korean congregants. I think this growth is evidence of the need for this kind of church in Korea. When I started Open Doors in 2011, I only knew of one other Korean-speaking congregation in the entire country that is affirming of LGBTQ (lesbian, gay, bisexual, transgender, queer/questioning) people. Now, I know of at least three other (Korean-speaking) congregations that are affirming. Religiously and secularly, Korea seems to be on the move toward greater acceptance of sexual minorities. But there’s still a very long way to go. In these three years, we’ve lost one congregation member to suicide due to the bullying by more “conservative Christians.” That’s one too many, and his death adds fuel to the undying passion I have to see all of God’s children have a safe space to call their spiritual home in this country. What’s been most surprising the last three years is that we’ve become a truly diverse community of faith. Although some still refer to Open Doors as the “gay church,” we are a community not only of LGBTQ people, but also straight couples and singles. We are also religiously diverse: atheists sit next to Christians and Buddhists. Conversation, not dogma, is what ties us together in this diversity. June is Queer Pride Month around the world. Here in Korea, we’ll be celebrating on June 7. When most people hear the words “Christian” or “church,” I am sure they automatically assume that person or community is homophobic. The Queer Pride Festival proves otherwise. Last year, three affirming religious groups, including Open Doors, were represented. We’ll be there again this year, spreading the message of Christ’s love against the often louder – though not stronger – voices of hate and exclusion. Our message is this: the love of Christ transcends all boundaries. Wherever that love is found, Christ is there. Rev. Daniel Payne, Open Doors Metropolitan Community Church

Correction The story “Breaking the silence around abuse” in the May issue incorrectly reported that there were three founders of Hollaback! Korea. There were 23. We regret the error.

MUST READS

A selection from our editors

M U S T RE ADs Robert Koehler’s Korea

Smile, you’re on North Korean TV

Page 34

Page 40

When Robert Koehler reads the news from his home country these days, he is often left aghast. Now executive editor of SEOUL Magazine, he has returned to the U.S. mainland just once in nearly two decades. “I have been here 17 years. This is my new normal now,” says the candid Long Island native. “Now I look at the United States, I look at an American newspaper and I’m like, ‘That’s really fucked up! I mean, how does anyone live there?’”

Broadly speaking, any North Korean television program can be slotted into one of a handful of categories. But there is also a unique show that English lacks the language to describe. The best one can do is to call it a discussion format, although the problem with that is that there is no discussion. The chairs are lined up in a row, facilitating no dialogue, only declarations. And so it begins.

The Korean ring of fire

A temple stay for the tireless

Page 44

Page 60

Once, when taking a friend to a local agujjim (monkfish) restaurant, we were devastated to find that the kind-intentioned ajumma had gone to great lengths to tone down the heat of this characteristically fiery dish. Partly because of chips on our shoulders but mostly because we just love spicy food, we launched our Seoul-based crusade: We aimed to test ourselves against the hottest local foods we could find.

We jogged up the short hill between the main road and the Golgulsa Temple gates — I was filled with anxiety. Meditation is something I think I ought to do because of all the benefits, but the idea of 4 a.m. makes me scowl; there can be nothing beneficial about being awake that early, no matter how many centuries the monks have been doing it.

Korea Burn

Urban exploration

Page 66

Page 70

In 2011, Chung Shin-yeob of Seoul made his way to Nevada in search of a city called Black Rock: the epicenter of weird; a countercultural headquarters of sorts. He wanted to become a resident there, but his timing had to be perfect. Black Rock is only a city for one week of the year. Any other time, it’s just an empty space in the desert.

While many try to avoid the graffiti-ridden spots that litter cities and towns around the world, others actively hunt them down. Armed with a camera and an ultra-wide lens, Joseph Jung captures the innards of abandoned schools, institutions, amusement parks and other decaying or forgotten structures across the peninsula, and then shares these powerful images on his site Abandoned Korea.

16 www.groovekorea.com / June 2014

COV E R On the cover Whether it’s his sharp political commentary, his how-tos for unconventional tourism or his jaw-dropping photography, Robert Koehler’s Korean media presence is a force to be reckoned with. Since arriving 17 years ago, he has established himself as an editor, journalist and all-around expert on Korean culture and history, displaying his passions on his hanbok sleeve. Though his love for Korea is well documented, Groove Korea spoke to him about what keeps him here and what continues to push him away from Western culture. Read the story on Page 34.

Cover photo by Dylan Goldby Design by Park Seong-eun

O ur pa st three issues

May 2014

April 2014

March 2014

The women’s issue The art of the tease From Seoul to Chuncheon on a bike

The rise of the sandwich Fast-tracking in Tokyo At Pyongyang Restaurant, it’s not about the food

Expat superstars Monkeys and machetes Do your own brew

What ’ s O n SUN

*All the events published in this calendar are subject to unforeseen changes by the promoters. Groove Korea does not take responsibility for any misunderstandings or third-party damage. For suggestions or comments, email events@groovekorea.com

MON

TUE

WED

NHK Symphony Orchestra @ Seoul Arts Center, Seocho-gu; 8p; interpark.com

qOEM Soup Kitchen Outreach

@ Onnuri English Ministry; onnurienglish.org

Free Driver License Test Class @ Yeoksam Global Village Center; to June 26; yeoksam@sba.seoul.kr

“Divergent” Book & Brunch @ TBD, 11a–12p; fb.com/events

Language and Cultural Exchange @ Itaewon Global Village Center global.seoul.go.kr

Wing Night @ Rocky Mountain Tavern, Itaewon; rockymountaintavern.com

The Scent of Ink @ National Theater of Korea; ntok.go.kr

Women’s Self-Defense Classes @ Body & Seoul seoulmartialarts.com

Fanta-Stick Korean-Style String and Percussion Performance @ Kyunghyang Art Hill Theater; english.visitkorea.or.kr Jump, the Musical @Kyounghyang Art Hill; ticket.interpark.com

Yeondoo Jung Spectacle in Perspective @ PLATEAU Samsung Museum plateau.or.kr

SIWA Newcomer’s Meeting @ Myeongdong M Plaza, Myeongdong; www.siwapage.com

Ongnyeo - Changgeuk Performance @ National Theater of Korea, Jung-gu; to June 21; ntok.go.kr/english

AMCHAM-Chevron Country Chairman @ Grand Hyatt Hotel, Yongsan-gu; register by June 5; amchamrsvp@ amchamkorea.org

US Consular Service Outreach @ a location in Busan, registration required; to June 11; (02) 397-4114 or seoulinfoACS@state.gov

Wednesday Wing Night @ Dillinger’s Bar, Itaewon; fb.com/dillingersseoul

2014 Ditto Festival & Vienna Chamber Orchestra @ Seoul Arts Center, Seocho-gu; ticket.interpark.com

Shirin Neshat @ National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art; mmca.go.kr

Lita Cabellut Solo Exhibition @ Opera Gallery, Gangnam-gu; to June 22; operagallery.com/ media/250.pdf

The Ballerina Who Loved a B-Boy @ Kyounghyang Art Hill; ticket.interpark.com

Dance-musical Sachoom @ Sachoom Theatre; ticket.interpark.com

Half-Price Burgers @ Dillinger’s Bar, Itaewon; fb.com/dillingersseoul

Meditation Vipassana Meditation Workshop; kr.dhamma.org

2014 Moonlight Tour @ Changdeokgung Palace; ticket.interpark.com

Jesper Just: This is a Landscape of Desire @ National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art; mmca.go.kr

PhotoSight @ National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art; mmca.go.kr Wheel Dive Korea @ Pyeongtaek; fb.com/WheelDiveKorea Special Exhibit: A Road Back Home @ Seoul Museum of History; english.seoul.go.kr

5th Master Class on Aging @ Institute of International Education, Kyung Hee University, Seoul; to June 25; chunwon@khmc.or.kr The 32nd International (Foreign) Taekwondo Instructor Course @ Kukkiwon; kukkiwon.or.kr

Weekend Brunch @ Craftworks, Itaewon; to 2p; craftworkstaphouse.com

U.S. Embassy Consular Outreach @ Daegu; usembassyseoulconsular. wordpress.com

Hedwig @ Baekam Art Hall, Samseong-gu; ticket.interpark.com

Drum Cat @ Myungbo Art Hall; ticket.interpark.com

Traditional Costume Experience @ Seoul Global Culture & Tourism Center Traditional Costume Experience; seoultourism.kr

YOEL Lecture @ Seoul Museum of History, Jongnogu; yeol400@hanmail.net

All-You-Can-Eat Pasta Night @ Craftworks, Itaewon; craftworkstaphouse.com

Trivia Night @ Craftworks, Itaewon; craftworkstaphouse.com

Joseon Cultural Festival @ Korean Folk Village; koreanfolk.co.kr

Seoul International Book Fair @ COEX, Samseong-dong; to June 22; sibf.or.kr/en David Garrett Live in Seoul @ Olympic Hall, Songpa-gu; ticket.interpark.com AMCHAM Newtorking Event @ Grand Hyatt Seoul, Yongsan-gu; RSVP by June 17; amchamrsvp@amchamkorea.org

Wing Night @ Rocky Mountain Tavern, Itaewon; rockymountaintavern.com

Trivia Night @ Craftworks, Itaewon; craftworkstaphouse.com

2014 Fun Korean Language Trip @ Kyung Hee University; english.visitkorea.or.kr

Samsung d’Light @ Samsung Electronics building, Seocho-dong, Seoul; cafe.naver.com/samsungdlight

Renaissance Seoul Hotel Outdoor Beer Garden @ The Renaissance Hotel; fb.com/RenaissanceSeoul

Italy in SongEun @ SongEun ArtSpace; songeunartspace.org

JUNE THU

FRI

SAT

Stand Up Seoul @ Rocky Mountain Tavern, Itaewon; rockymountaintavern.com

Murder Ballad @ Vivaldi Park Hall; ticket.interpark.com

3-Day Holiday: Biking, Hiking and Scuba Diving @ Sokcho; with Seoul Hiking Group; to June 8; fb.com/groups/seoulhiking

Modern and Contemporary Photographs of Seoul @ Seoul Museum of History; eng.museum.seoul.kr

15th Annual Korea Queer Culture Festival 2014 @ locations throughout Seoul; June 7-15; kqcf.org, fb.com/kqcf2000

Ladies Night @ Rocky Mountain Tavern, Itaewon; rockymountaintavern.com

Disco Experience w/ KOLOMBO @ B One Lounge Club, Itaewon; b1itaewon.com

Korean Gaelic Games Round 2 @ Yeungnam University, Daegu; 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. with after-party; fb.com/ seoulgaels

Korea International Boat Show @ KINTEX; kibs.com

Mr. Show @ Lottecard Art Center; ticket.interpark.com

Nabiya Hoodie Sale 2014 @ Animal Rescue Korea; animalrescuekorea.org

Whim ‘n Rhythm @ Korea Foundation Cultural Center Gallery; Jung-gu; en.kf.or.kr

Korea Queer Film Festival @ Sungmisan Theater, Mangwon Station; June 12-15; kqff.co.kr, fb.com/kqff.kqff

David Garrett Live in Busan @ BEXCO Auditorium, Haeundae-gu; ticket.interpark.com Men’s Night @ Craftworks, Itaewon; craftworkstaphouse.com Drinking and Thinking Thursday @ Dillinger’s Bar, Itaewon; fb.com/dillingersseoul

The Accidental Bystander @ Gridaggum Coffee Shop, Hapjeong; to June 19; seoul.angloinfo.com

Cats — Original Production @ Blue Square Samsung Electronics Hall, Hanam-dong; ticket.interpark.com

SPO — An Evening of Bruckner and Bartok @ Seoul Arts Center, Seocho-gu; sac.or.kr Connecting_Unfolding @ National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art; mmca.go.kr Troika - Persistent Illusions @ Daelim Museum; daelimmuseum.org

Angel House Volunteering @ Angel House, Yeonsinnae; angelhouse2013@hotmail.com

Picnic in Seodaemun @ Seoul Grace Community Church, Seodaemun; seoulgracecommunity@ gmail.com EXTREME Live in Seoul @ Uniqlo AX, Gwangjin-gu; ticket.interpark.com

Korea Burn will happen on Cheongpo Island from July 7. See our story on Page 66

Redbox @ Club Mute, Itaewon ITAMI JUN: Architecture of the Wind @ National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art Bongcheon Chess Club Regular Events @ Cafe Casting; yachess.com

Ladies Night @ Rocky Mountain Tavern, Itaewon; rockymountaintavern.com

Changing of the Royal Guard @ Gyeongbokgung; sumunjang.or.kr

DJ Grant Party @ B One Lounge Club, Itaewon; b1itaewon.com

Rib Night @ Bull & Barrel, Itaewon; fb.com/BullnBarrelSeoul

Srrsly @ Venue, Itaewon; fb.com/venuerok

Battered Sole is opening its new Itaewon location this month. See our story on Page 50

Joint Security Area Panmunjeom Tour @ Lotte Hotel, Songpa-gu; yeoksam@sba.seoul.kr

ZOMBIE DISCO SQUAD @ Club Mute, Itaewon; clubmute.com

Festivals

Exhibitions

Music / Dance

Travel / Sports

Arts

Networking / Social

Theater

Food / Drinks

The North Asian Gaelic Games will take place in Namyangju on July 5. See our story on Page 82

Column by Dr. Lee Moon Won

Treatment

Seborrheic dermatitis is a curable disease

eborrheic dermatitis is a common inflammatory disease of the scalp and skin characterized by scaly lesions that usually form on the scalp, hairline, face and body. Scalp diseases are often seen as a precursor to hair loss, though this is not necessarily the case. But if the symptoms are severe and chronic, however, some form of hair loss may be inevitable. For this reason, the treatment of scalp diseases should be seen as a proactive approach to the prevention of future issues.

Symptoms of seborrheic dermatitis

Seborreic dermatitis is the most common form of scalp disease. The symptoms of seborrheic dermatitis are as follows: ◦ Usually a lot of dandruff and itching on the scalp surface ◦ Red spots on the scalp surface ◦ Perspiration or appearance of irritation on the scalp after eating of spicy food

Causes

The cause of seborrheic dermatitis is unknown, though it can occasionally be triggered by puberty or menopause, and new mothers may also experience the symptoms during their antenatal and postpartum period. Research has shown that other contributing factors include improper shampooing, unbalanced diet and stress and a general decrease in the skin’s immune function.

Many people think that seborrheic dermatitis is just a small sore that can be easily cured by medicine and ointment. Of course, there are occasional minor instances where this is the case. If the patient does seek treatment within an appropriate time, however, symptoms may return quickly, which can be frustrating and cause continued discomfort. The treatment of seborrheic dermatitis is largely determined by your lifestyle and is dependent on such factors as eating habits and amount of sleep. It can be assumed that seborrheic dermatitis is similar to allergies and atopic diseases. These diseases are closely linked to the body’s immune function, as well as one’s lifestyle. That’s why it is very important to maintain healthy lifestyle habits while undergoing treatment. One strategy for alleviating seborrheic dermatitis is to reduce one’s meat consumption while increasing that of vegetables. Washing one’s hair often, sleeping seven to eight hours a day, getting plenty of exercise and managing stress are all required as well. Changing one’s lifestyle to include healthier habits can increase the effectiveness of treatment. In medicine, seborrheic dermatitis is typically thought of as a disease that is highly linked to lifestyle choices. Even in the post-treatment period, patients should try to continue a healthy lifestyle in order to avoid recurring symptoms. At our clinic, scalp diseases are treated by Natural Organic Herbal Extracts. There are three major principles I consider when I prescribe medication (internal or external medicine, acupuncture injections, etc.). Treatments should do the following: ◦ Reduce inflammation on scalp and calm irritated scalp ◦ Regenerate skin around problem area, and promote hair growth ◦ Improve immune functions to prevent symptoms from recurring By decreasing the rate of recurring seborrheic symptoms, patients can keep a clear and healthy scalp for a long time. Frequent consumption of lactic acid and lactic acid fermented food supplements which contain vitamin B and omega-3 supplements are also helpful in the treatment of this disease. Seborrheic dermatitis is a disease that requires continuous self-control. In a pinch, only treatment can improve scalp condition. Therefore, I would like to advise you not to delay your treatment, since everything is easier to treat when caught early.

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All stories are culled with consent from Korea JoongAng Daily’s website and edited by Groove Korea for length and clarity. The opinions expressed here do not necessarily represent those of Groove Korea. — Ed.

N at i o na l

N e w s

with

June 2014 / www.koreajoongangdaily.com

Gwangju anniversary marked by mass boycott The government’s commemoration of the 34th anniversary of the Gwangju Uprising was recently held in its namesake city. But the event was overshadowed by an all-out boycott by the victims’ families and opposition politicians, who were protesting the rejection of a symbolic song as the event’s official anthem. The ceremony was held at 10 a.m. at the National Cemetery in Gwangju, with lawmakers from the ruling Saenuri Party and outgoing Prime Minister Chung Hong-won among the approximately 1,500 in attendance. But nearly half of the seats at the commemoration were empty, the result of an unprecedented boycott by the victims’ families and lawmakers from the main opposition New Politics Alliance for Democracy. It was the first time all the relatives of the massacre victims shunned the event. They

decided upon the boycott after the Ministry of Patriots and Veterans Affairs refused to designate the symbolic song “The March for Thou” as the event’s anthem, which reignited a controversy that flared last year over the same issue. “The March for Thou” is mostly associated with the struggle for democracy, as it was widely used in pro-democracy street rallies in the 1980s by student protesters. The song was composed a year after the 1980 Gwangju Uprising, which left hundreds of pro-democracy activists and ordinary citizens dead at the hands of military forces under the Chun Doo Hwan government. The boycott was also attributed to the ministry’s decision to prohibit participants from singing the song along with the choir during the ceremony.

NPAD cochairmen Kim Han-gil and Ahn Cheol-soo skipped the government ceremony at the request of civic groups in Gwangju. The opposition and bereaved families have long demanded the pro-democracy song be recognized. But the ministry has so far denied the request twice, claiming it is unprecedented for the government to designate a particular song as the anthem of an event. Throughout the 10-day Gwangju Uprising, citizens took up arms and formed civilian militias, claiming control of the city. A bloody crackdown followed after the Chun Doo Hwan regime sent in special forces. According to government data, 191 civilians died during the massacre, but civic groups and relatives claim that as many as 606 people lost their lives.

The train to the demilitarized zone run by the Korea Railroad Corporation started service again after a four-year break. The train travels between Seoul Station and Dorasan Sation, which lies inside the DMZ, twice a day. The service started in April 2002 but was suspended by the Ministry of National Defense in 2010 after one person tried crossing the DMZ into North Korea. Service resumed on May 4 and the trains depart from Seoul Station at 8:30 a.m. and 1:30 p.m. Returning trains leave Dorasan at 12:10 p.m. and 5:30 p.m. There are 136 seats and 14 standing room positions. The train stops at Neunggok Station, Munsan Station and Imjingang Station and takes 1 hour and 20 minutes. DMZ-Train, as it is called, is a remodelled diesel train with three cars, each with an individual theme: peace, harmony and love.

The cars contain 150 photos about the Korean War and the ecosystem of the DMZ. Each car has screens at the front that show a feed from a camera at the head of the train. Tickets cost 8,700 won for adults from Tuesday to Thursday and 8,900 won from Friday to Sunday. There is no service on Monday and holidays. From Dorasan Station, travelers can visit the reopened Dorasan Peace Park and (via bus) the third underground tunnel, built by North Korea to sneak agents into South Korea. Dorasan Peace Park was constructed by Gyeonggi Province in 2008, which spent 11 billion won. The park includes a museum of the ecology of the DMZ. Since the station is inside the DMZ, which is under the control of the military, tourists must carry identification and a round-trip ticket. “We expect the DMZ-Train to help the tour-

ism industry and also contribute to peaceful relations between the two Koreas along with the government’s plan to build a DMZ World Peace Park,” said Choi Yeon-hye, CEO of Korail. “It will be a cornerstone for the Eurasia transcontinental railroad.” During the second half of this year, Korail will operate a new route from Cheongnyangni Station to Baekmagoji Station in Cheorwon, Gangwon, the northernmost point of South Korea’s Gyeongwon line. The station was opened in November 2012. The 5.6-kilometer-long railway section from Sintan-ri Station to Baekmagoji Station had been closed since the outbreak of the 1950–53 Korean War on June 25, 1950. “It was a comfortable trip to cross the Civilian Control Line by train,” said Yoo Ho-sik, a 37-year-old passenger. “It was a great opportunity for my child to experience the reality of division,” he said.

Train to Dorasan Station in DMZ resumes

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Seoul’s plans will assist expatriates The Seoul city government has unveiled a set of plans aimed at helping expatriates in Seoul fight discrimination and mistreatment and better cooperate with locals in dealing with residential issues. Under the plan, the city will hire translators who specialize in law in order to support foreigners who are engaged in lawsuits due to discrimination based on race. Along with these officials, the city plans to hire expatriates fluent in Korean to have them provide more general translation services at hospitals and district offices. One can register for the translation service at the Seoul Global Center in Jongno, central Seoul. In February, the Seoul Metropolitan Government set up a team in charge of promoting human rights for foreign residents and now plans to use the resources from that division to come up with human rights support services exclusively for expatriates. Officials will also establish four free shelters across the city where foreigners who are jobless or have family disputes can stay. The city has yet to announce a specific time frame or locations for these shelters. The city will also allow foreign residents from different countries to select representatives to form an expatriate council from 2015

forward. The representatives will regularly discuss neighborhood issues and inform the city government of the results of those meetings. Seoul said in the statement that the content of those discussions will be reflected in its policies. The new initiative is intended to more actively include foreign residents in community and town meetings. Despite the fact that the number of foreigners living in Seoul has surpassed 390,000 and has continued to increase, expatriates are usually excluded or not informed of town meetings. In addition, a large cultural institute that promotes the cultures of countries outside the Organization for Economic Cooperation and Development will open by 2018. Only a handful of relatively wealthy countries can afford to open cultural centers in foreign countries. In Seoul, there are 13 cultural centers. The municipal government did not announce the specific list of countries that will be included in the integrated cultural center, but stressed that they will be non-OECD members. “The focus here is diversity,” said Cho Hyunok, head of Seoul’s women and family policy division. “We tried to reflect diverse ethnic groups and aim to serve all foreign residents through a wide range of programs and policies.”

Authorities have arrested the owners of a pillow factory in Daegu over allegations that they habitually abused a mentally disabled worker and pocketed his wages, estimated to be about 40 million won ($39,080). The Daegu Metropolitan Police Agency said the owners, identified by their surnames Jang and Yu, are suspected of enslaving a 50-yearold mentally handicapped man surnamed Lee from January 2012 to October 2013, and subjecting him to extreme working conditions at their factory near Seomun Market. The victim is severely mentally challenged, with the mental capacity of a 7-year-old and an IQ of around 70, officials said. “They treated him like a slave,” added a source from the police. “He barely slept four hours a day.” According to police, the suspects forced Lee to sell the pillows on the road and abused him when he couldn’t reach the target quota. When he finished his work, he apparently slept on the factory floor without heating, even during the winter. Lee reportedly escaped from the premises in November, after which he lived on

the street. Police were alerted to the case in January after they were told that a homeless man had been seen sleeping on a road near the market. They added that they had also indicted a man surnamed Seo and his wife for their involvement in exploiting the victim. A police report stated that Lee had met Jang and his accomplices in May 2011 when he was working at a factory in Buk District, Daegu. Lee had allegedly left his home 12 years earlier and had been living alone since. After noticing that he was intellectually disabled, Jang, Seo and his wife convinced Lee that they could help him find a Vietnamese wife. They forced him to borrow 9.3 million won from a lender for the purpose of wedding expenses and the arrangement fee. After stealing the money, Seo and his wife handed Lee over to Jang to work at the pillow factory. Despite the fact that Lee worked at the factory for nearly two years, area residents claimed they never noticed anything unusual. The authorities said they are expanding their probe.

Police arrest two suspects over worker exploitation

Seoul announces plans for homeless The Seoul Metropolitan Government announced yesterday that it would offer 900 public jobs to the homeless as part of a comprehensive plan to help them socially rehabilitate. About 500 posts will be divided among those 65 and older, the disabled and those who are ill. They will be tasked with cleaning facilities that serve the poor and the community, as well as with meal preparation. The city government will compensate those workers 26,000 won for four hours of work per day. They will be allowed to work 15 days per month. For those who are younger and healthier, Seoul is expected to create 400 new jobs, which will involve cleaning up public parks and facilities, managing green belts and supporting the welfare operations of the city. They will receive 43,000 won per day, for five days of work a week. In a related move, the government will also open up a shared workplace in June near Seoul Station and Yeongdeungpo Station, where the homeless are known to gather. There, homeless workers will be in charge of simple manufacturing operations, such as the production of shopping bags. Sixty people who prove to have a strong and sincere work ethnic will later be given a chance to run their own street market in collaboration with various companies.

INSIGHT Edited by Jenny Na (jenny@groovekorea.com)

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HIV-positive but not alone Activist Lee Jeong-sik aims to help people living with HIV/AIDS find comfort in community Story by Kellie Ell / Photos by Nina Sawyer Translation by Seunghyun Alex Lee and Chan Dong Park Additional reporting by Jongmin Lee

fter having a cold that just wouldn’t go away, Daejeon native Lee Jeongsik went to the doctor for some blood tests. It was December, the month he discovered that he was HIV-positive. In person, Lee is mild-mannered and welcoming, casually chatting with strangers as though they are old pals. It is no wonder, then, that when Lee heard his diagnosis, he described his reaction as “just calm.” “When I realized I was infected, I wasn’t surprised or shocked at all,” he said. “I had a feeling that I might be infected with HIV. … I have many friends with HIV, so maybe that’s why I wasn’t that surprised or shocked.” The public shaming and judgment toward people with HIV/AIDS is present all over the world. But it is especially acute in conservative Korea, where the disease is associated with homosexuality. In addition, acceptance of sexual minorities and alternative gender identities in the country has been slow save for a couple of notable exceptions. Often, those who contract the disease are ostracized from society, or deprived of financial and emotional support from their families. “People who are infected are used to being alone,” Lee said. “They try to hide themselves. They can’t tell others because they are afraid.” Lee, 27, came out to his parents at age 16, and said the news saddened his mother and angered his father. “At the time, they thought gay

equaled transgendered. The meaning of gay was an effeminate man, a prostitute,” he said. “My parents didn’t accept it. They wanted me to get married (to a woman).” Lee was eventually forced to leave his family home. He joined a gay rights group and dropped out of school. He said a lot of members of the LGBTQ community in Korea are kicked out of their homes or are otherwise rejected by their families after coming out and the loss of support forces many to leave school. Fast-forward almost a decade, and his present state of contentment is palpable. He is living with friends in the Haebangchon neighborhood of Seoul, a stone’s throw from the hub of the Korean queer community in Itaewon, and working as a government-paid assistant to people with disabilities. He is also an activist who is working to draw attention to the plight of people living with HIV/AIDS and expand their rights while dispelling the misperceptions about the disease and those afflicted by it. “There’s really no difference between before (the diagnosis) and now,” he said. “The one thing is that now my friends can support me more.” Yet he still encounters the discrimination that people living with HIV/ AIDS face in Korea. His sister is the only one in his family who knows that he is HIV-positive. “People attack minorities in society,” Lee said. “I can feel the discrimination.”

INSIGHT Edited by Jenny Na (jenny@groovekorea.com)

Misinformation and discrimination In the 1980s, when little was known about the AIDS epidemic, people around the world thought the disease equaled sudden death. Today, however, advances in medicine have rendered it a chronic disease similar to asthma, diabetes or high blood pressure, according to the U.S. Department of Health & Human Services. It is now also widely known that HIV cannot be transmitted via touching, sharing utensils or even kissing. Yet misperceptions about the disease persist in Korea. “The public perception has been that only gay people and foreigners get HIV,” Lee said. All E-2 visa holders, or foreign language teachers, must undergo mandatory HIV testing in order to live and work in Korea, a policy that originated from the belief that foreigners were spreading the disease. “People (in Korea) believe HIV is a fatal, terrible virus,” Lee said. “Maybe I just don’t relate to that idea.” The Korea Centers for Disease Control and Prevention reported in September 2013 that there were 953 new cases of HIV/AIDS in 2012 – 868 Koreans and 85 foreigners, with a ratio of men to women of 9.7 to 1. The total number of Koreans with HIV reached 7,788, with 99.8 percent of them infected through sexual contact. Yet the World Health Organization published statistics that same year on the Global Health Observatory Data Repository, reporting the numbers to be closer ‘People who are infected are used to 12,000 to 20,000 HIV-positive people of all ages in Korea. to being alone. Some critics believe the discrepThey try to hide ancy is linked to the profound themselves. They prejudice against people living can’t tell others with HIV on the peninsula. because they are “A lot of people (in Korea) think that HIV/AIDS is a disease afraid.’ that bad people get,” Korean acLee Jeong-sik tivist Cho Myung-hwan told CBS News in 2011. “They feel they shouldn’t have to empathize with bad people.” In March, the National Human Rights Commission of Korea held a forum on discrimination against HIV-positive patients in Korean hospitals. The HIV/AIDS Infectee Association KNP+ and the HIV/AIDS Citizens’ Solidarity Nanuri+ reported that HIV-positive patients at a hospital in Seoul experienced both sexual assault and discrimination from hospital staff. The hospital did not provide HIV-positive patients with new gowns every week, as they did for other patients, and HIV-positive patients were unable to come and go as they wished, whereas other patients were free to do so. The Korea Centers for Disease Control and Prevention had selected the hospital as a special facility for people with HIV, but when these problems came to light, the KCDC cancelled its contract with the hospital. It is still searching for another facility to take on HIV-positive patients.

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Lack of legal protections The misconceptions about HIV/AIDS in Korea are perpetuated by a lack of education about the disease and how it is transmitted. Lee said some high school teachers tell students that only the sexually promiscuous get HIV. Earlier this year, Lee was giving a lecture to a group of elementary school students in Seoul about human rights and told them he was HIV-positive. The teacher, he said, was angry for his disclosure and later complained to his boss. Yet Lee said the kids “didn’t act terrified. They were just interested in new information. (HIV) was just a word.” While this may sound hopeful, Lee is realistic about his expectations for the future. “I don’t think children will change all of a sudden,” he said. “But at least they’ll learn to think for themselves.” One problem, Lee said, is that there are no laws to protect HIV-positive people from discrimination. The laws that do exist are vague and loosely worded and, he said, perhaps further isolate the people they are meant to protect. According to the AIDS Prevention Act, people who are HIV-positive are not allowed to work in places that require regular medical checkups and employers are generally discouraged from hiring people who test positive for the virus. In addition, those in government can “force” people with the virus to receive treatment and/or take “other protective measures” at the government’s discretion. The government does, however, have laws requiring that it build medical facilities for those infected with the virus and provide assistance for those who are having financial problems because of the diagnosis, when it sees fit. Before 2009, HIV was classified as a rare and intractable disease and anyone who was HIV-positive had to register their status with the government, according to the Ministry of Health and Welfare. That year, however, the regulation was changed and people who were not receiving government medical assistance no longer had to register. But the registration requirement still applied to people in the low-income bracket with HIV who were receiving government medical assistance. That meant that even if they were seeking treatment for something as simple as a common cold, their HIV-positive status was apparent to anyone with access to their medical records. The policy remained for the next three years until 2012, when the “rare and intractable” classification was dropped and the policy was eliminated, allowing even those receiving government aid to keep their HIV-status private. Registration is now optional, but people who are HIV-positive must still register in order to receive government aid for HIV-related treatment. If they don’t, they are responsible for at least some of their own medical fees for HIV treatment, which can be pricey, even with the government covering a portion of the costs. Lee believes the social stigmas are so strong that many people would rather forfeit medical treatment than admit their status. There is also a lack of resources in Korea for people living with HIV and AIDS, and what is available is often misleading or contradictory. The lack of open discussion about the disease has made it very difficult for anyone outside of the foreign or LGBTQ communities to educate themselves about the disease and how it is transmitted or find information about prevention and treatment options. According to the Global Health Observatory Data Repository, Korea is one of the only modernized countries in the world where very little information on HIV

or AIDS can be found at all. Lee pointed out that HIV testing is not encouraged in Korea, by the government, parents, teachers or other role models in young people’s lives. If a person does want to get tested, they are often met by judgment from doctors or other medical staff. He said the shame is so strong that many people would prefer not to have the test at all. “A lot of people in Korea don’t know (they are positive),” Lee says. “They just live their lives.” Of those who are tested, some refuse treatment or are living in denial because they feel they can’t reveal their HIV-positive status, Lee said, which means they are unable to get support, whether financial or emotional. He said he has been lucky to find support because he has revealed his status, but that’s because he is the kind of person who would rather express his feelings than isolate himself. “I’m used to talking honestly about everything I want to say,” he said. “I am really lucky, because I have a lot of people who can help me. If there is a god, this is the biggest blessing he can give us, I think.”

‘I received a lot of emails, mostly from Koreans, from people who couldn’t come (to the party). They said, “I’m so proud of you because you can tell the newspaper that you’re gay. I feel stuck because I can’t tell people I’m gay.” They were happy for me.’ Lee Jeong-sik

Building community to combat stigma Lee hopes that people who are HIV-positive like himself, as well as members of the queer community, can one day live with as much freedom as he feels he has attained. But first, the stigmas against both groups must be abolished, and Lee is already working to make that happen. His diagnosis inspired him to create an event to bring people living with HIV in Korea together to share their experiences, and to provide those people with access to medical information about HIV. The 4+HIV party (4 is part of Lee’s nickname), held in January at a café in the Seongbuk district of Seoul, was the first of its kind in the country. He is also working on a film that documents his HIV/AIDS activism and his journey over the last year. While Lee is currently single, he said he would get married if Korea allowed it. For now, he is happiest on his bike or while writing. As for the party, which was originally a “private, personal party” before news of the event spread and more than 200 people showed up, Lee said it was a success. “I received a lot of emails,” he said. “They said, ‘I’m so proud of you because you can tell the newspaper that you’re gay. I feel stuck because I can’t tell people I’m gay.’ They were happy for me.”

GrooveCast GrooveCast host Chance Dorland finds out more about the HIV party. Check out the episode at groovekorea.com.

INSIGHT Edited by John Rodgers (jmrseoul@gmail.com)

Writing from

the wreckage Gay rights activist and poet Yun Hyun-seok committed suicide at 19. Solidarity of LGBT Human Rights of Korea aims to prevent others from doing the same Story by Finn Berry / Photo and illustration courtesy of Solidarity of LGBT Human Rights of Korea

hen the door to his office wouldn’t budge, Yol sensed something was blocking it. After a call out to his office mates and several shoves, it finally opened a crack. Through it he saw a soju bottle on the floor and several wadded tissues. Then, at the base of the door, the fringe of a purple checked shirt he recognized from the evening before. This couldn’t be happening. “Let it be something in the office that fell to the floor,” he prayed. Thirty minutes passed before someone made a phone call. People from the building were beginning to crowd around the office entrance. The police came to check the corpse. When the door finally opened completely, Yun Hyun-seok was there, head bowed. He looked as if someone had painted his whole body with purple watercolor. In that dark, cramped office, he had hanged himself from the doorknob. He was only 19. Found near his body, in a neat pile, were more than 75 original sijo, a traditional form of short verse, together with diary entries and several farewell letters. For long afterward, Yol was traumatized, angry that such a thing had to happen at his workplace. He wished it were a dream. He blamed himself. Since that tragic spring day in 2003, he and

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other activists at Solidarity of LGBT Human Rights of Korea have been determined to keep the memory of Yun alive. They hold a service each year on the anniversary of his death. In 2006, they also published Yun’s poems and diary entries as a book. The diary entries reveal a month of worsening despair and isolation as Yun threw himself into LGBTQ activist causes as a volunteer worker at Solidarity. In both the diary and in his poems, Yun rebukes the Christians’ fomenting hate against sexual minorities and the society that condemns them as subhuman. Determined to struggle on until, as he wrote, his “will to live was reduced to nothing,” he at last gave in, but with the hope, mentioned again and again in his letters, that his death would somehow come to have meaning for the liberation of the LGBTQ community in Korea. In 2013, Yun’s dream at last took shape when Solidarity created an annual LGBTQ literary award in his name. The Yook Woo Dang Literary Award — named after Yun’s pen name — was launched last year at the annual memorial ceremony. The second award was delivered in April. Groove Korea sat down with Ung (who declined to publish his surname), planner for the Yook Woo Dang Literary Award and active Solidarity member, to discuss Yun, gay teen suicide and the vision behind the new award.

Groove Korea: How did Solidarity come to create this new literary award for LGBTQ writers? Ung: The Yook Woo Dang Literary Award started out as a part of last year’s event commemorating Yun’s death. Yun was a member of Solidarity’s Sexual Minority Youth Pride Team. Each April, Solidarity creates an event to remember those LGBTQs who’ve passed on, including Yun. Last year we upped the scale and organized a cultural festival. The literary award was one of the featured events. We also held a memorial service. In life, Yun wanted to be a sijo poet. He wrote sijo poems. After his suicide, Solidarity collected the poems and published them as a book. Up to that time we’d read his sijo with a general sympathy for his thoughts and emotions but stopped there. Then there began to be talk about starting a literary prize as a way to honor him, as the first Korean LGBTQ who left behind his story explicitly in writing. Beyond reading Yun’s works, we also wanted to discover the stories of Korean sexual minority youth today, their struggles and experiences, through the printed word. That was the goal we set. More than reading Yun’s work, savoring it and looking back on his life, we all thought writing our own stories and thoughts in words could be a form of practice or activism. The five winning prose works last year were, on the whole, very bleak, focusing on some dark aspects of the social experience like repressed desire, teen suicide, rejection by family upon disclosure of sexuality or of HIV/AIDS diagnosis, fear of same-sex desire as a communicable disease. Do you see a space ever opening up for optimism and playfulness in Korean LGBTQ literature? The judging committee made an effort to get distance from the negative images and heavy content that society has long used to describe homosexuality. The submissions last year had some heavy content. But a lot of the submissions were light and happy. There was a comparatively wide diversity of genres.

Through the literary award, we always have hope of discovering new narratives, new language. Still, I must say, comparing this year’s entries with last year’s, the stories surrounding sexual minorities are still dark. That was one of the important points the judges brought up. Even though Korean sexual minorities live in a barren environment, there’s no rule that says that even literary works have to be dark and heavy. They also pointed out that entries all had similar backgrounds and subject matter. Especially prominent among this year’s submissions was the theme of falling in love with a same-sex schoolmate, reaching an obstacle, becoming frustrated and leaving school. Of course, behind the darkness and heaviness of the works are the difficulties to which sexual minority youth are subjected in society. I think that the self-esteem of the writers is as withered as the (tone of the) works. But now that the second award is over, we need to think hard about how to encourage new types of writing and narratives. In a society where gay youth suicides are not publicly reported as such (perhaps the family would keep the motive secret or ascribe the death to another cause), it seems the Yook Woo Dang Award represents a new institutionalized visibility for the LGBTQ suicide issue, and could have the potential to become a sort of standard in the battle for antidiscrimination legislation. How do you personally think the award could be most effectively used as a political tool? Not only in foreign countries but also in Korea, sexual minority issues have rapidly come to the surface of society. You mentioned suicide, but in fact, various homophobia-related issues are occurring in schools and families together with school violence, bullying and social ostracization. And not only that: Even within the sexual minority community in Korea, due to the ubiquitous bar culture, there are very few places where sexual minority youth can enjoy themselves.

‘The haters say that homosexuals go against nature, or say homosexuality is the “evil cause” of AIDS and that it can spread the disease and destroy the state. Under the logic that homosexuality is harmful to oneself, the homophobic powers make alliances with conservative journalists, political parties and Christians, and widen the reach of the right wing. You must keep in mind that against this background, the voices and slogans of sexual minorities are hard to spread.’ Ung

Yun Hyun-seok (Aug. 7, 1984 - April 26, 2003)

INSIGHT Edited by John Rodgers (jmrseoul@gmail.com)

Ten sijo by Yook Woo Dang (Translated by Finn Berry, researcher at Seoul National University) Hesitation Sorrow at loving you when I’m forbidden. I watch from the offing, a smile on my lips. It was a heartless heaven that made me a queer. In praise of Holland Tiny dreamland in northern Europe, I envy your freedom and equality. Holland, land of hope, earthly paradise. Warmth of your body The union of my soft backside with yours would slowly melt the coldest ice. With the warmth of your body, please melt me! At a gay bar Pour, pour again, let’s get ourselves drunk Let’s forget, forget ... Forget all the sorrow, the accusations, the brunt of their contempt because we are queers. Itaewon nights Neon signs like beautiful waves, mirthful strains of song, its busy streets humming, Itaewon on Saturday night -- a reign of peace! Queer get-together A glass of light booze cures a pound of cares. Cheery conversation sets our woes to flight. The mirthful night flows with the lilting music. At a queer bathhouse How old are you, boy? You’re cute. Let’s do it. How old are you, sir? Oh, you’re hot. The sound of the two fucking in the room excites me. Your embrace Resting my face on your burly chest, your scent, weighty, is sensed by me alone. Your embrace is sweeter than any flower. Love neatly folded Our love, gentle as a lotus scent. I’ll fold this love neatly and keep it for a long, long time so I can give it to you tenderly when you come again. A happy parting You, a pine needle that came to me in silence. Now you leave as you came, without goodbye. But I don’t blame you. Please be happy.

32 www.groovekorea.com / June 2014

Suicide is a sensitive issue in the sexual minority community. If one’s choices are extremely limited, suicide is the only answer, so a lot of sexual minority groups in Korea operate counseling programs. They can put the kids in contact with professional trauma treatment centers. Currently, Solidarity and religious groups that support sexual minorities are working on the Rainbow Teen Safe Space Project (read the story in Groove Korea, January 2014) to deal with crisis management and emergencies. Upon reflection, activities so far have placed weight on identifying the factors negatively impacting the lives of sexual minority youth and seeking change. In the future, new tasks might include seeking out and reconstituting new role models for LGBTQ youth. It’s hoped that the literary award, as a site for discovering, producing and collecting stories of sexual minority youth in this environment, will play a role. As you foresee in your question, in certain contexts, I think it can be an important weapon. But we don’t see the award as a social movement or as a plan to seek a means for a social movement. Of course, I do think it can provide motivation in fights for political efficacy or particular political issues. The view that LGBTQ orientation is a choice or a “sin” that can be “overcome” is reinforced by a variety of social agents, for example, anti-gay Christian churches, whose homophobic rhetoric has been a great obstacle to the LGBTQ human rights struggle in Korea. It seems things have gotten worse in recent years. To give my own opinion, homophobic utterances are not a recent phenomenon. But if there is any difference with the past, it’s the organized manner of the anti-gay slogans. Recently, in all parts of the country, student human rights ordinances and regional human rights ordinances have been passed and same-sex marriage/ unions, military law, anti-discrimination laws have become an issue. I think this is an indicator showing that in Korea, together with the growth of the LGBTQ movement, the consciousness of the public towards sexual minorities is changing. But to the same extent, anti-homosexuality (sentiment) is becoming organized. All the media — journalism and broadcasts, internet, and even textbooks — are putting homosexuality on the chopping block, for and against. I think it’s merely sophistry to not recognize the existence

of sexual minorities. Not only that, slogans of hate — everything from jokes to protest marches and even violence — are being created. Homophobic statements are not responsive to rational logic. On the contrary, hate itself becomes the logic and rallies for authority. The haters say that homosexuals go against nature, or say homosexuality is the “evil cause” of AIDS and that it can spread the disease and destroy the state. Under the logic that homosexuality is harmful to oneself, the homophobic powers make alliances with conservative journalists, political parties and Christians, and widen the reach of the right wing. You must keep in mind that against this backdrop, it is hard to spread the voices and slogans of sexual minorities. What strategies is Solidarity now employing to change public consciousness? Occupying discourse is important. That doesn’t mean it’s simply a battle of discourses. A variety of approaches — official, economic, administrative — must be considered to carry out action on a single issue, and many of them take a long time. Take, for example, the issue of abolishing 92.6 of the Military Law that has been introduced into legislation. Until recently, 92.6 described and proscribed homosexuality as “sodomy” (“gyegan,” literally “chicken rape”). Gyegan means it’s an inhuman act. This was first contested 10 long years ago but the language was changed only last year as a part of new revisions to the military codes. But 92.6 states, as pertains to soldiers and those of similar status, “cases of anal sex or other despicable acts will be punished by imprisonment for two years or less.” While not mentioning homosexuality directly, it clearly states it will punish it. The movement to abolish this clause has been continually ongoing. Human rights groups, activists and legal experts must join together, form a team. Street campaigns were undertaken and a legislative petition of well over 5,000 pages was put together in 2003 and 2011, a Constitutional petition was submitted twice. Recently, we’ve been able to organize National Assembly members and demand legislative reform. I heard recently there’s been a plan to submit a white paper on the activities over the past 10-plus years surrounding the military law. The issue of equality legislation alone would take hours to discuss.

‘Suicide is a sensitive issue in the sexual minority community. If one’s choices are extremely limited, suicide is the only answer.’ Ung

By Ryu I-jji with coloring by Lee Scott

This article is an excerpt of one cross-published with The Three Wise Monkeys webzine. The extended version can be read at thethreewisemonkeys.com. –Ed

COVER story Edited by Matthew Lamers (mattlamers@groovekorea.com)

Robert Koehlerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Story by John Power / Photos by Dylan Goldby

KOREA After 17 years of absorbing the culture, the Marmot rules English expat media

â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;I do feel like a lot of shaping the future will the world, whether it is is Korea, Japan, China, where the future is, and

trends that are going to be be happening in this part of not necessarily Korea, but it s o m e w h e r e . I n a w a y, t h i s i s it is an exciting place to be.â&#x20AC;&#x2122;

Robert Koehler

COVER story Edited by Matthew Lamers (mattlamers@groovekorea.com)

hen Robert Koehler reads the news from his home country these days, he is often left aghast. The longtime expat, magazine editor and author of one of Korea’s most popular English-language blogs sees the U.S. as in the process of “going in the toilet.” “Our economy is in trouble, our politics — on both left and right — are a national disgrace, our pop culture more or less speaks for itself and our national discourse is, well, it just doesn’t seem serious,” the self-proclaimed “poli-sci guy” says. In fact, he has returned to the U.S. mainland just once in nearly two decades. Koehler acknowledges that he is probably one of those rare expatriate breeds: a “lifer.” “I have been here 17 years. This is my new normal now,” says the candid Long Island native. “Now I look at the United States, I look at an American newspaper and I’m like, ‘That’s really fucked up! I mean, how does anyone live there?’”

36 www.groovekorea.com / June 2014

It wasn’t always so. In 1997, Koehler had little inter- finds the suggestion that they might rely on it for news est in Asia, let alone Korea. A yearlong stint with the “disconcerting” — especially when he usually prioritizPeace Corps in Tanzania had gotten him hooked on es stories by whatever makes him “laugh most.” In particular, he hopes his coverage of the Korean Africa. The corps, however, had other ideas. Rejecting his request to stay in Africa, the program instead media’s stories about foreigner crime and other aloffered him a chance to volunteer in Southeast Asia. leged deviancies doesn’t cause some foreigners to Reasoning that being paid as a teacher somewhere harbor skewed views about Korean society. that didn’t excite him was better than working for free, “But because I post a lot about that, some can Koehler signed up to spend a year Korea before he’d come away with the assumption that the only time presumably return to Africa. Nearly two decades later, foreigners are talked about in the news is when they the executive editor of SEOUL Magazine and man do something negative, which is not true,” he says. behind the Marmot’s Hole is still here, speaks Kore- “There is plenty of positive news about foreigners out an fluently, wears hanbok every day and has become there. I just don’t find it amusing, so I don’t post it.” one of the most influential voices in expat media. And he can’t imagine being anywhere else. ‘When I started the blog, “I do feel like a lot of trends that are going to be I t h ought I knew everything. shaping the future will be happening in this part of E v e r y b o d y ’s l i k e t h a t , r i g h t ? the world, whether it is not necessarily Korea, but it is I w a s y o u n g e r, y o u k n o w. Korea, Japan, China, somewhere,” he says, speaking in quick yet deliberate bursts. “In a way, this is where I knew enough about Korean the future is, and it is an exciting place to be.” politics to be dangerous, Since 2003, Koehler’s outlet, the Marmot’s Hole but not enough.’ (www.rjkoehler.com), has been an oasis of Korea-reRobert Koehler lated news, polemics and gossip for foreigners whose information sources involve a toss up between the The perception among some foreigners that Korea limited English-language media and impenetrable local press. His fluency in Korean allows him to trans- is far from welcoming is apparent in the site’s livelate stories from the local media that might otherwise ly, often caustic, comments section — a highlight or pass by English speakers. The blog has also been hazard of the Marmot’s Hole experience, depending the source of news tips for international journalists upon your preferences. Searing complaints from and a platform for other people with a public profile to foreigners about their host country are rife, often matched by the defensive reactions of ethnic Korerespond to queries and controversies. Photography is one of the major tools in his profes- ans overseas. Ad hominem and withering scorn are sional arsenal. It’s also a personal passion, a way for routine. Koehler, though, scoffs at “they gave me a fork” him to channel his fascination with his adopted home. Through his lens, Koehler often seeks out charm racism. In fact, he insists he has had no more than where obvious beauty is lacking, such as in a gritty, a handful of negative experiences as a foreigner in overlooked Seoul neighborhood or an aging bridge Korea. “We are dealing with a people who are proud of their identity, who are proud of their culture, who spanning the Han River. “I love looking at the world. And Korea is a fasci- want to protect that and, yeah, sometimes they are nating subject to photograph. The deeper you get not used to dealing with the ‘other.’ But there is also, into photography, the more you realize the world is ‘This is where you are, deal with it,’” he says. “I have a remarkably beautiful place. It’s easy to forget that been here 17 years and I can count the number of sometimes, but picking up a camera helps me re- really, really unpleasant experiences on one hand. But member. It also helps me focus and it gives me a bit for some people, it seems to happen all the time.” He also argues that a lot of negativity about the of discipline in life. And it’s not like I don’t need the country from foreign residents is inflated on the Indiscipline.” Koehler is humble about the Marmot Hole’s influ- ternet. “How much of it is true, how much of it is true ence. While his website may be a staple of many but they kind of deserved it, how much of it is literally, expats’ daily routine, this particularly irreverent expat actually horror stories of woe befalling perfectly inno-

COVER story Edited by Matthew Lamers (mattlamers@groovekorea.com)

cent individuals, I don’t know,” he says. “I am just saying, I have had a good experience here. Most of the people I know who are socially well adjusted here made an effort to, if not fully assimilate, then certainly find a niche and kind of go with the flow.” In over a decade at the coalface of expatriate chatter online, Koehler’s views about Korean society, and the place of foreigners in it, have evolved considerably. A look back at the Marmot’s Hole circa 2003 gives the impression of an entirely different author at the keyboard. Posts from the era — many of them attacking the newly inaugurated Roh Moo-hyun administration from a conservative slant — were angrier, cutting and more opinionated. “When I started the blog, I thought I knew everything. Everybody’s like that, right? I was younger, you know. I knew enough about Korean politics to be dangerous, but not enough. So I thought I knew everything, and I would just be posting and posting and ranting and ranting,” he says. But his interactions in those early years with a fellow blogger, Peter Schroepfer (a.k.a. Orankay), pushed him to change his mindset. Schroepfer, a Korean literature major who now works as a journalist for a Korean-language newspaper in the U.S., was fluent in Korean. “Not in an arrogant way, or saying, ‘you’ve got you believe this, you’ve got to believe this,’ but he’d help me out and point out that things may not necessarily be what I thought they were. Between that, and just doing it over a long time, and learning and learning and learning — and, you know how it is: The more you learn, the more you realize you don’t know shit. I am actually kind of embarrassed about some of the stuff I wrote earlier, these long rightwing screeds.” Now, Koehler is a lot more sympathetic toward Korean attitudes that he might have previously lambasted. “I have become a lot more understanding, if you will, or sympathetic, to what some people would consider nationalist Korean ideology. Partly because I sympathize with those line(s) of thinking back at home. Some of the stuff I previously thought was kind of stupid or irrational, I am now … (of the opinion that) maybe it is not so irrational.” Despite being an immigrant himself, Koehler is skeptical about Korea’s move toward multiculturalism, which has been embraced enthusiastically by officialdom if not necessarily the overall public. He points to recent ethnic tensions in Singapore and periodic race riots in France as examples of what can go wrong when experimenting with mass immigration. “The multiculturalism (in Korea), for instance, is very regional. The big cities, ironically enough, are largely Korean. The countryside is where you see a lot of the mixed marriages. That concerns me because the gulf between the urban and the rural in Korea is already large enough; now you are adding a friggin’ ethnic component to it,” he says. “The nature of the multiculturalism worries me. It is a lot

38 www.groovekorea.com / June 2014

of imported brides. I don’t want to say it is all mail order brides, I don’t want to perpetuate stereotypes, but at the same time, I don’t see that as a healthy phenomenon. I don’t see the phenomenon that made that necessary as healthy, and I don’t see the phenomenon as healthy.” But Koehler believes that, if approached carefully, immigration could bring about great changes to Korea. “I am a foreigner living here. My wife is a foreigner living here. I just think countries need to be careful about how they do these things,” he says. “I think immigration can help countries. It has helped the United States, for the most part. It brings in talent and whatnot, it brings in fresh blood and it can be an invigorating and productive phenomenon.”

‘I have been here 17 years. T h i s i s m y n e w n o r m a l n o w. ’ Robert Koehler

Koehler himself seems to come closer to being assimilated than most Westerners here. As well as speaking Korean, he wears the traditional hanbok daily, both because he likes the way it looks and feels, and because he wants to support local traditional industries. While writing about travel and culture for Seoul Selection, he often seeks out less-traveled parts of the country and more traditional ways of living. Despite more than 17 years of continuously living in the country, Koehler, whose wife is from Mongolia, still doesn’t have permanent residency, instead having to renew his visa every two years. To rectify this, he is currently undertaking the government-run Korean Immigration and Integration Program, which significantly eases the process of getting a permanent residency visa. It’s an arduous process that’s taken years for him to finally get around to, but he appreciates the premium that Korea places on citizenship. “Korea is not like Canada. Canada gives out citizenship like it is fucking candy because, for them, it doesn’t really mean anything,” he says. “But Korea is different: Not only does citizenship mean something, (but) the culture, the society means something. So if you want to be accepted, you’ve got to work for it. They are not going to just give it out like candy — you’ve got to work.” But can a non-Korean ever truly integrate into such a historically homogenous country? Can a foreigner ever really be Korean? “Is it possible? I don’t really know. I know people (who) if they haven’t done it completely, they’ve definitely come close,” he says. Whatever the answer, one thing is certain: the peninsula is changing. “Korean society is changing. They are becoming more open to that sort of thing. Now you actually have a lot of people in the Korean press debating, ‘What does that mean to be Korean?’”

GrooveCast GrooveCast host Chance Dorland talks with Robert Koehler about the state of the media. Listen to the episode at groovekorea.com.

INSIGHT Edited by Matthew Lamers (mattlamers@groovekorea.com)

The North Korea Column

Smile, you’re on North Korean TV

How the propaganda machine controls its public – with talk show TV Column by Christopher Green / Illustration by Michael Roy

roadly speaking, any North Korean television program can be slotted into one of a handful of categories. News about the actions of the Supreme Leader of the day naturally predominates, followed by coverage of a motley assortment of meetings held in support of government policy, documentaries and films, most of which reference the historical achievements of present and former leaders, coverage of sports and cultural events, and an extraordinarily long, drawn-out style of weather forecast. But there is also a unique show that English lacks the language to describe. The best one can do is to call it a discussion format, although the problem with that is that there is no discussion. These mysterious productions, which are broadcast in support of the main themes of media content du jour, feature a gathering of expert analysts offering up an explanation of whatever phenomenon is deemed worthy of investigation. This is followed by “opinions,” which always reflect

the righteous nature of government policy. The dialogue is completely pre-ordained and looks it, although it is not scripted per se. The noninteractive nature of the shows is enhanced by the design of the studio environment: The chairs are lined up in a row, facilitating no dialogue, only declarations. The host sits at one end and delivers all his or her questions in a manner so loaded as to proscribe any deviating answers, which wouldn’t be allowed anyway. Take an example from this spring. Running for half an hour – meaning that around 10 percent of all public broadcasting airtime on that date was devoted to it, as state television tends to only broadcast for five or six hours a day – the topic was President Park Geun-hye’s “Dresden Declaration,” which she delivered in late March. The goal was to explain why President Park, who was referred to by name throughout without any honorifics (the same disrespect was simultaneously conferred upon two other former leaders of South Korea, Lee Myung-bak

ABOUT THE Writer Christopher Green is the manager of international affairs for Daily NK, an online periodical reporting on North Korean affairs from Seoul. The opinions expressed here are the author’s and do not necessarily represent those of Groove Korea. For more information, visit dailynk.com.

40 www.groovekorea.com / June 2014

Where my child’s smile is concerned, I want the best. Any father would feel the same. and Park Chung-hee), had actually made a “proposal that was not a proposal at all.” These shows are fascinating for a whole host of reasons. First, although it was not polite, it was also not overtly offensive about President Park. This was refreshing since the state media has excelled itself this calendar year, calling her variously a “bitch,” a “witch,” a “whore” and a “political prostitute,” not to mention stating that the sinking of the Sewol passenger ferry with the loss of 300 lives was entirely her doing, thus making her the “owner of a grave keeper’s cottage.” Second, it stuck mostly to the topic, something of which state news agency KCNA can rarely be accused; and third, the most unusual aspect of all, it even presented coherent arguments about why the Dresden Declaration was inappropriate. Throw in a soupcon of transparent relativism and a huge chunk of hopelessly distorted logic, mix and serve. And what was said? The North Korean argument is long-held, and simple. It proceeds from the presumption that denuclearization does not begin at home; rather, it begins in Washington. Pyongyang pretends to think President Park ought to be pushing the United States to denuclearize (some years ago, Kim Jong-il admitted privately that this demand is just propaganda). In addition, they assert that Park ought to worry about getting her own proverbial house in order rather than criticizing theirs. On this point, they think she should address The noninteractive South Korea’s admittedly problematic nature of the suicide rate (South Korea is, according shows is enhanced to one of the participating experts, the by the design “Kingdom of Suicide”) and acquiesce to the ardent wish of all Korean people by of the studio putting a halt to U.S.-ROK joint military environment: the exercises. Finally, she should tear down chairs are lined up the wall put up by her father, who was in a row, facilitating supposedly inspired to erect a barrier no dialogue, only the entire width of the Korean Peninsula declarations. by his own formative experiences of the Berlin Wall. (That this wall doesn’t actually exist is not permitted to get in the way of the narrative.) There is something quite compelling about all this. It is easy to see why they could have an impact on the target domestic audience. Not because you can sympathize to some degree with an argument about imbalanced denuclearization, although that is also true. Rather, it relates to a much broader point, one that friends from North Korea make repeatedly when we discuss cultural issues. “If you don’t have a comparison point,” one put it best, “you cannot and do not compare.” For another, it’s a case of “when there’s so little electricity and so little television to watch, you take in everything no matter what it is.” You can see a similar process at work in lots of different contexts. For instance, interviewed about the demise of 1990s Britpop band Oasis, for instance, guitarist and songwriter Noel Gallagher once commented that he, a working-class lad from Hulme, a sink estate of public housing in Manchester, never thought success could come his way. Why? “Where I come from it didn’t happen to people like me. How could it possibly happen? There was nobody like me on TV.” All the more reason, then, to support activities that broadcast an alternative viewpoint to that of the North Korean state media. After all, who wants to see the discourse dominated by a media organization that is guilty of calling U.S. President Obama “a monkey” with “revolting facial features” who should “live in an African zoo”? No word yet on what Kim Jong-un’s good pal Dennis Rodman makes of that sentiment.

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INSIGHT Edited by Matthew Lamers (mattlamers@groovekorea.com)

The Money column

Banking methods: The pros and cons

Whether you’re tech-savvy or more traditional, shop around for your banking method of choice Column by Paul Sharkie / Illustration by Craig Stuart

aving briefly touched on this subject in a past column, I’d like to take a closer look at the full range of options available to those who are just getting started with banking in Korea. For many, testing out the latest technology to assist with their financial needs sometimes comes out of habit, sometimes out of necessity and often just out of pure curiosity. For those who cannot make regular trips to their branch without their employer breathing down their necks (English teachers know this feeling all too well), the digital world undoubtedly offers several options that allow you to do your banking at your own convenience. Employer issues aside, there is something quite satisfying about sitting in a coffee shop with your laptop or mobile device and taking care of your finances without worrying about branch hours. Having said this, if you really prefer talking to an expert or have plenty of time to spare, there is nothing wrong with keeping up appearances and visiting in person.

Branch visits Korean banks are generally quite fantastic when it comes to spreading their branches around. With a high level of customer service, clean, modern spaces and an increasing amount of foreign language speakers, visiting your bank in person is no longer the stress it was for many arriving in Korea years ago. Pros Great customer service (overall) and conveniently located branches. Cons Potentially long waiting times as well as higher overseas remittance fees (when compared to other methods) and occasional communication barriers. Although there are many capable foreign language speakers, should you have any problems, you can always have the teller call your bank’s foreign language call center — they can act as a translator. Don’t be afraid to ask!

ABOUT THE writer Paul Sharkie is the Foreign Client Relationship Manager for Shinhan Bank’s Foreign Customer Department. Please visit Shinhan Expat Banking on Facebook for more information. The banking information provided in this column is based on Shinhan Bank policies and may not be applicable to all banks in Korea. — Ed.

42 www.groovekorea.com / June 2014

Online banking Korea has arguably taken the lead when it comes to providing efficient online services. Not only is security taken very seriously here, but several languages are also offered with English being the first choice, followed by Chinese and several others. It would be very hard to find a Western country that makes comparable efforts on such a grand scale. While some banks are better than others, many have invested in the development of fast, reliable and liberating applications that allow you to do a lot online. Though Internet Explorer is generally the only browser that can be used, MacBooks are also creeping their way into recognition with two banks (of which Shinhan is one), offering software that can be pinned to your dock. Much like PC banking, Mac Banking permits almost all of the same functions, including sending money overseas with significant discounts on the bank handling fee. Pros Absolute convenience, and although some may cite as a complete nuisance, the security methods employed by banks in Korea make banking online a lot less riskier than in other countries. Cons Online banking cannot (ironically) be set up online! Due to the Real Name Transactions Act, your identity must be verified in person to set up this service; simply endure one visit with your passport, ARC and overseas banking details (should you wish to send money overseas) and you’ll rarely have to visit a branch thereafter.

Mobile banking Much like its elder sibling online banking, mobile apps in English and other languages have been introduced over the last few years (Shinhan’s is currently in development), allowing you to truly bank on the go. Again, registration is required at a bank with your ID, but since this service is so universally popular, this is far from a con. But if you weren’t using a password on your smartphone before, now might be the time to start. Pros In Korea’s “balli-balli” culture, anything on the go is a huge advantage! Cons For those not sporting the latest huge smartphone screen, typing in one of the many passwords and transferring funds requires attention to detail; you don’t want to end up sending the wrong amount or entering your password incorrectly too many times (which ultimately ends up in a stressed visit to the branch to reset it all)! Type slowly, please.

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ARS phone banking Not to be confused with mobile (phone) banking, many banks offer an Automated Response System phone banking service. Though the functions vary from bank to bank, a simple call will generally allow you to check your balance and recent transactions, and even send money overseas. Do check with your bank for the service hours and functions they have to offer. Pros Calling is relatively quick and does not require the usual security methods required by online banking. Some banks also offer this service 24/7. Cons Registration for the service is required at a branch with your passport, ARC and overseas banking details. This service can usually only be accessed when calling in Korea.

Other information If you intend on sending money overseas, you may only choose one bank as your “Primary Foreign Exchange Transaction Bank”. Your teller can advise on this but, generally, you will need to bring your passport and ARC at this time. You will also be limited to sending $50,000 (or the equivalent) overseas per year. If you would like to send more, proof of how you sourced the funds must be provided and any amount over this limit will have to be sent in person, at a branch. 43

FOOD & DRINK Edited by Shelley DeWees (shelley@groovekorea.com)

The Korean ring of fire

Two intrepid tasters torment their taste buds to find the countryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s spiciest dish Story and Photos by Matt Crawford and Ian Henderson

nce, when taking a friend to a local agujjim (monkfish) restaurant, we were devastated to find that the red volcanic sludge in the pan was neutral in hotness â&#x20AC;&#x201D; the kind-intentioned ajumma had noted our foreignness and gone to great lengths to tone down the heat of this characteristically fiery dish. On another occasion, when some foreign friends were guests on a TV show, the producers behind the scenes urged them to act as if the kimchi was unbearably spicy for their delicate taste buds. This little fiasco was met with peals of laughter from the audience, further confirming the mythical frailty of the waegookin (foreigner) palette. Some contend Korean food is the spiciest in the world, and, yes, it can certainly raise a grim smile on the red, sweaty face of a hot-food aficionado. Partly because of chips on our shoulders but mostly because we just love spicy food, we launched our Seoul-based crusade: We aimed to test ourselves against the hottest local foods we could find. Knowing this would require a constant flow of beer mixed with soju to soothe our mouths, we set out on a mission to find the single spiciest Korean dish around.

44 www.groovekorea.com / June 2014

Bul-dak: Not-so-spicy boneless chicken on skillet

of ch ip s on ou r Pa rtly be ca us e ca e ti m e an d sh ou ld er s — be eusas ke d if w e ti m e ag ai n w e ar t m os tly ca n ha n d le it — bu lo ve sp ic y be ca us e w e ju sted r Seou lfood, w e la un chW e ou m ed to tes t ba se d cr us ad e: st ai th e ho ttes t ou rs elve s ag ai n co ul d fi n d. lo ca l foods w e

Bul-dak “fire chicken” might be on its way out of public favor, as most of the locations we found on Google and Naver maps seemed to have gone under. But at Hong-mi Fire Chicken & Pan-Fried Food in Jongno, we ordered extra-spicy fire chicken and the house specialty, fire chicken on melted cheese. Ian: Having heard Koreans and foreigners say this was the spiciest dish in the land, I’ve been had — BAMBOOZLED! Hot, but not within the upper register of what I usually eat. No challenge at all. I can’t help but wonder if there’s some meddlesome do-gooder in the kitchen protecting the hapless waegookin from themselves. Tastiest dish on the list, but not helping us achieve our mission objective. Honestly, I think the waitress or cook threw us under the bus. “Those who torment us for our own good will torment us without end, for they do so with the approval of their own conscience.” — C.S. Lewis Matt: I have fond memories of eating fire chicken and drinking beer with a couple of English academy coworkers. It really was a baptism by fire for an innocent young expat. But the fire chicken of my memory is much hotter than anything on the market nowadays. This “extra-spicy” fowl at Hong-mi had a bit of a piercing effect in the back of my throat, but failed to bring on any full-body alert or send me into a state of fear and trembling. “Abandon all hope, ye who enter here”? Not quite.

Jokbal: Pigs’ feet (and friends) Jokbal usually yields no hot wallop. But in the labyrinthine alleys of Dongdaemun, Changshin-dong Spicy Jokbal has a cult following for its fiery-footed swine. For adventurous eaters, the special set is a must: You’ll get chicken feet, two kinds of pigs’ feet and some short-arm octopus. Ian: These always summoned repressed memories of pickled pigs’ feet in jars back in North Carolina, with my Grandaddy suckin’ away at their toe knuckles; hence, I was wary. But this spicy version is pretty damn tasty, although next time I’ll go for the charcoaled slabs of samgyupsal. The spice primarily stuck to the tongue tip and lips, no doubt due to the gnashing of teeth necessitated by the ordeal. Ain’t much meat neither, just a whole lot o’ sauced-up fat and gristle. Although we initially dismissed these as not all that hot, “Ring of Fire” by Johnny Cash was stuck in my head the whole next day … ahem. Matt: Before the main course had even arrived — a small serving of “mini-jok” — the waitress had deposited bowls of bean sprout soup that were perfectly clear and yet … spicy. When the jokbal arrived and I had put on the plastic gloves provided, I soon discovered this was no dainty meal. It required plenty of biting and ripping to separate the tendons and ligaments from the bones, which was made trickier by the nettling spiciness. By the end of the meal, various pork joints were littering the table, and this little delicatessen was marked for future visits.

FOOD & DRINK Edited by Shelley DeWees (shelley@groovekorea.com)

Ddeokbokki: Sticky rice cakes ‘n stuff

It go t ho tter an d ho tter as th e br oth bo il ed do w n an d th e sp ic in es s bu ilt up — slow ly, li ke a sym ph on y. A fl am in g sym ph on y.

At the main branch of Yeopki Ddeokbokki in Dongdaemun, cartons of Coolpis (a yogurty, fire-quenching mouth cooler) sat ominously on every table. We opted for “hardcore rice cake” Set A, with extra goodies like egg and dumplings, and added cheese and a side of boneless chicken feet, just to be professional about it. Ian: Another level of intensity from what you usually expect for this: really, really spicy, just on the cusp of intolerable. Koreans say to eat the egg first with spicy food, since it helps the gut handle it, but I had popped two heartburn pills before this adventure and quietly congratulated myself on my forethought. The chicken feet were surprisingly mild — more of a smoky BBQ. The odeng pieces, though? They soaked up a ton of sauce and gave the biggest hit out of the whole crock-pot of foolishness. We definitely went to Little Russia for beer afterwards. Matt: I was skeptical that a street snack could be turned into a meal, but we ordered a little extra and ended up satisfied. It got hotter and hotter as the broth boiled down and the spiciness built up — slowly, like a symphony. A flaming symphony. When all was said and done, though, it was just children’s food, give or take a few mouth ulcers. And the chicken feet had no effect whatsoever. Yet for my scoffing attitude, I was struck down the next day with several bowel attacks that left me pale and fragile. Lesson learned.

Mugyo-dong nakji: Octopus tentacles smothered in fire There are hundreds of restaurants named Mugyo-dong Nakji nationwide, so we headed to the one behind City Hall. It’s a renovated hanok called Youngest Sister Nakji, and on this particular evening every seat was occupied by flush-faced office workers. Celebrity signatures adorned the walls and gruff ajummas quickly appeared with nakji bokkeum (mixed octopus) and clam soup. Ian: My heartburn sucks lately (gee, I wonder why), so I chugged some chocolate milk beforehand to prepare for this place; it was old-school, authentic Koreana. The octopus was tasty and paired well with the relative simplicity of the clam soup. At first it was a tangy spice — I didn’t get why the guys next to us were beetred — but I soon learned that it was a creeper, and that the oil for the side of bibimbap was a catalyst, ratcheting it up. Both of us broke into a sweat at exactly the same time. Damn spicy, but not wholly miserable. Increased booze intake resulted in drunken sweaty conversation with our neighbors. Solidarity! Matt: I was expecting something a lot spicier, but I left the octopus house relatively undamaged. The sauce was nice and garlicky, and I enjoyed the vibe of the place: stressed-out salarymen and -women kicking back with therapeutically spicy food and plenty of alcohol. The octopus had a lingering sting to it and I found myself digging into the huge heap of bean sprouts when the sauce’s boomerang effect started to hit. I’d recommend this dish to anyone who wants to test the waters.

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Naengmyeon: Icy, spicy buckwheat noodles with hot sauce Dong-a Naengmyeon in Hannam-dong is known for its incendiary noodles and a no-bullshit approach: drab blue interior, cafeteria-style seating, order at the counter, pay before eating. Only three items are on the menu — mul naengmyeon (cold wheat noodles), bibim naengmyeon (cold mixed noodles) and dumplings. The level of spiciness must be specified upon ordering, so of course we grabbed one of each item on the menu at maximum intensity. Ian: Having had my ass kicked here before, I went for the slightly more sane mul naengmyeon, since some of the spice can be left behind in the liquid. During my previous visit I’d seen ajeossis giving up mid-meal, their egos crushed and vanquished, but although both of us were sweaty and red-faced by the end, it wasn’t as wicked this time around — not to imply there wasn’t ample nose-blowing and piles of tissues left in our wake. The cups of meat broth accompanying were scrumplicious and shouldn’t be missed. I snuck in a drinking yogurt to soothe my palate afterwards. Matt: Ian warned me this restaurant was going to destroy us, so I was a bit surprised when I tasted the noodles and detected sweetness. Huh? Soon, though, the smoky, sinister aftertaste set in and my forehead broke out in sweat. It was a new experience to have something so spicy served cold. When Ian finished his noodles I was still chipping away at the bottom of my bowl but managed to drink all the soup without incident. It turned out to be feel-good spicy food.

Maeun galbi-jjim: Spicy beef short-rib stew (a.k.a. the worst decision ever) For a concoction of beef short-ribs, glass noodles and a dangerous red sauce, we visited the Hyewha location of Maeundae, an Apgujeong-based chain. The waiter was extremely reluctant to let us order the spiciest version, but we did. As we sat listening to pitiful K-pop tunes and took in the simple concrete interior, we were ignorant of our impending doom. Ian: Oh, sweet Jesus; this was brutal. From the first bite, my mouth and throat burned with the strength of a thousand suns. Sweat and tears were flowing, the fount turned wide open. I voiced cowardly thoughts of meal-abandonment. All conversation was ground to a halt as I held chilly bottles of soju to my neck, desperate for any respite. The meat was tender and slow-cooked, but as the broth boiled down, the clear noodles absorbed what I dubbed “The Devil’s Brine.” I saw that rat-bastard of a waiter chuckling from behind the partition and was reminded of an old Korean proverb: “Revenge is a dish best served spicy as fuck.” Matt: At first we tried to make light of the situation, but soon the mood turned grim and the conversation died down. A chill swept over me and I had to put on my jacket. My stomach began to ache. My tongue felt like it was shot full of novocaine. This was the only food that put me into a state of physical distress. We managed to finish the meat, but left a pile of glass noodles at the bottom of the pot. As if to cheer us up, the waiter told us afterward that we’d handled it better than the locals, and through our haze we realized we’d done it: spiciest dish in Seoul, found. Now to crawl home.

y s p ic e — g n a t a s a w At f ir s t it e g u ys n e x t h t y h w t e g I d id n ’ t e b e e t- r e d — b u t I to u s w e r n e d it wa s a c r e e p e r , s oon l ea r th e o il fo r th e s id e a n d th at p wa s a c ata lys t, o f b ib im ba it u p. B o th o f u s ratc h e tin g a s w eat at e x a c tly b r o k e in toim e . th e s a m e t

More info If you want to try any of these for yourself, here’s how to find the restaurants we mentioned: Hong-mi Buldak Jongno-gu, Gwancheol-dong 13-2, (02) 733-7942 Changshin-dong Spicy Jokbal Jongno-gu, Changshin-dong 581-5, (02) 3675-9689 Yeopki Ddeokbokki Jung-gu, Heungin-dong 156, (02) 2236-8592 Youngest Sister Nakji Jongno-gu, Cheongjin-dong 142-3, (02) 736-0824 Dong-a Naengmyeon Yonsan-gu, Hannam-dong 657-43, (02) 796-7442

FOOD & DRINK Edited by Shelley DeWees (shelley@groovekorea.com)

For the love of food Story by Ji Sun Chong Photos by Ji Sun Chong and Shelley DeWees

Their courtship and romance, unsurprisingly, included delicious home-cooked meals and Michaelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s unforgettable Thai sauce. Marsha was convinced it needed to be displayed in a restaurant. Their restaurant.

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Fresh, healthy stir-fry at BĂ o in Gyeongnidan

ood author Michael Pollan advises, “Eat food. Not too much. Mostly plants.” It seems a bit silly to offer instructions for such a basic and instinctive thing like eating, but in a time of overabundant food options with questionable origins, we can truly benefit from this reminder: Keep it simple. Keep it fresh. It is this exact methodology that Bào embraces. Situated on Gyeongnidan’s main road between Noxa Lounge and Porchetta, Bào is straightforward: a no-frills stir-fry restaurant where you create your own dish. First choose your grain — rice or noodles — then add all the other stuff: bok choy, broccoli, garlic, ginger, king oyster mushrooms, carrots, tofu, prawns, chicken, beef or pork; then consider your extras (cilantro, cashews, lemongrass, lime leaf or basil). Finally, you choose your sauce, and all the fixings are thrown into a wok in rapid succession over an intense flame. As the Chinese name “Bào” suggests, the ingredients sizzle and pop, then arrive at your table steaming and perfectly caramelized. Bào’s manager Marsha explains, “It’s how we like to eat: simple, fast, healthy. This restaurant is an extension of us.”

Perfectly charred cruciferous greens infused with multiple layers of flavors — whether it’s the sassy Thai sauce or the peanut buttery Malay, balanced with chewy thick noodles or crispy fried rice — this is Bào.

Co-owners Marsha Taylor and Michael Yantzi met in 2004 through Michael’s cousin, who happened to be Marsha’s roommate in an apartment they shared above Paris Baguette in Gyeongnidan. Both Marsha and Michael grew up near Toronto, Canada, but they didn’t cross paths until after coming to Korea. Their courtship and romance, unsurprisingly, included delicious home-cooked meals and Michael’s unforgettable Thai sauce. Marsha was convinced it needed to be displayed in a restaurant. Their restaurant. “I knew Mike had talent,” she says, and smiles. His classmates at Le Cordon Bleu, where he trained in Sydney, would undoubtedly agree. For her, food meant family. “My mother taught me how to cook Jamaican cuisine. ... I was always her assistant,” Marsha explains. From then on, she always wanted to own a restaurant on a beach, but it seemed like an improbable dream. “I longed to be near water, mingling and meeting people,” she says. While the streets of Gyeongnidan aren’t exactly a tropical setting — “Concrete is a close second to water!” Michael jokes — their network of friends gathered support and encouragement, and Bào was born in 2011. Bào offers what you think you could make at home, but does it better. Their three giant gas ranges cook food rapidly, producing a charred flavor that only intense heat can attain, and their woks do the rest. The shape of the wok allows for versatility in cooking several things at once, at different temperatures. And in the wok, the flavors are truly Bào-made: Each dish affects the next, and this creates a unique treat, one involving the histories of the foods that came before (this is the “food memory” of a well-seasoned wok). Bào is about balance, but there’s no need to limit yourself when every option is a delicious and healthy one, and it’s really fun to create your own dishes without having to do the cooking. Perfectly charred cruciferous greens infused with multiple layers of flavors — whether it’s the sassy Thai sauce or the peanut buttery Malay, balanced with chewy thick noodles or crispy fried rice — this is Bào. “We appeal to people who know what they like. Here you can be vegan, vegetarian, Paleo, Atkins — anything.” Within the clutter-free space, under the inviting orb lights, Marsha and Michael have created a restaurant that is a true extension of their home. So open the door; you’re already invited. Getting there c From Noksapyeong Station, exit 2, walk down the street for two minutes until

you come to a pedestrian underpass. Head down the stairs, through the tunnel, and exit on the left. At street level, you’ll see Bào across the street directly in front of you, next to Noxa Lounge. Look for the black awning.

FOOD & DRINK Edited by Shelley DeWees (shelley@groovekorea.com)

More than cod Battered Sole’s new Itaewon location will be a breath of fresh British air Story by Dave Hazzan / Photos by Colin Dabbs

his is the story of four schoolmates from Britain and their quest to prove that British food is more than just overcooked chicken tikka masala and undercooked meat pies. Sam Griffiths, Charlie McAlpine, his brother Jamie and Minsoo Lyo are all co-owners of Battered Sole, the iconic fish and chips restaurant in Sinchon, and now they’re taking their vision to Itaewon. This month they’ll be opening a new joint in the hyper-competitive alley behind the Hamilton Hotel, but they’re certain their food, drinks, prices and location will put them in a good place to sidle up alongside the best foreign food in Korea. “One of the reasons we’ve chosen to do this in Itaewon is because we want to compete. …. We like the challenge,” Griffiths says. “We know there are some good restaurants out there, but we think we have a good restaurant, too.” With the growth of their business comes the expansion of their menu; the new Battered Sole will move beyond fish and chips and into other British staples. Daily brunch will be key: sausage, bacon, eggs, tomato, baked beans and toast. “Getting a good breakfast in Korea is unbelievably difficult, unless you want to eat bibimbab,” says co-owner McAlpine. Eggs, bacon and sausage in particular are

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usually done very poorly. “With bacon, if you go to (any Korean store), the product you buy doesn’t resemble anything I would term as ‘bacon.’ Sausages are similar. ... It’s just a generic meat in a casing. And even with eggs, very rarely do you get a well-cooked fried egg, let alone a scrambled or poached egg.” To remedy the situation, they’ve found a British sausage maker and have connected with a local butcher who can cure bacon to their exact specifications. They’re also going to make their own baked beans, but Charlie says none of this is terribly difficult. “You hear about these common foods and think, ‘How on earth would I make that?’ But the reason they’re common is because they’re quite easy to make.” Gravy is another staple they’re looking to improve. “So rarely do you see a place making its own gravy,” he says, “which I think is a tragedy. When I get a plate of meat, it’s the thing I’m looking forward to most. If you can get fresh ham hock stock, add that to draft cider and you’ve got amazing gravy.” Charlie feels restaurants set themselves up for failure by going for complicated items without getting the basics down right. He wants the new Battered Sole to create simple food, but to do it properly. At the same time, he’s also pretty excited

about the new second-floor terrace, which will have sun exposure for at least part of every afternoon. Up there, the owners hope guests will be able to relax with a cocktail and share food together. “My idea of good al fresco dining is to have all kinds of cold foods, with some bread and a glass of wine or a cocktail,” Charlie says, “so we’ll be sticking to pretty basic things, like duck rillettes. With those, essentially all you’re getting is duck legs, cooked until they’re shreddable, whipped into a kind of pâté. Then you get your bread and spread it on there. Simple.” The idea will be to order several appetizers — kind of like a British tapas — and to enjoy them in a group. “You’ll order a selection and sit outside, enjoy the weather and eat different things,” Charlie says. People like to share food in Korea, “so these will be perfect. ... You can have a little taste of everything.” There will also be a series of signature cocktails: Pimm’s (a very popular British concoction made of gin, Sprite and fresh fruit), a homemade dirty lemonade and a dirty Ribena, which tastes of blackcurrants and was named after a British cordial. “The beauty of these drinks is that you almost can’t taste the alcohol,” Griffiths says, something that matters most in the summer months. “You want something refreshing out of them, not anything that

Charlie feels restaurants set themselves up for failure by going for complicated items without getting the basics down right. He wants the new Battered Sole to create simple food, but to do it properly.

tastes too much like booze.” On tap they’ll have two types of Bulldog (a Scottish beer from Aberdeen) and a cider, all alongside up to 100 single-malt scotches to cater to what Griffiths calls the “single-malt wave” sweeping Korea. “That’ll be exciting for us, because we’ll be able to educate people about the different flavors and the different areas in Scotland where they’re from,” Griffiths says. He thinks it’s great that Koreans are getting into whiskey. “We want to encourage that as much as we can,” he says. In spite of this range, the team is confident they can still keep things affordable. The boys are focused on cost; they say too many foreign restaurants are overpriced, and they’re determined that Battered Sole won’t be. “We’re making sure our prices are very, very reasonable,” Griffiths says, “so that people can afford to come regularly. A lot of the other restaurants — they’re good, they’re very good — but you would never go there on a weekly or biweekly basis, because you could never afford it. A lot of this food is the food of the coal miner, but no coal miner could pay what some other restaurants are charging for their meals.” But under their roof, main dishes will go for between 12,000 and 16,000 won, cocktails and draft beers between 7,000 and 8,000, house wine 30,000 to 40,000 a bottle and whiskeys from 7,000 up to 40,000 won a glass. Griffiths says Battered Sole began in order to improve on some of the problems with the U.K. fish and chips industry, but here, in Korea. “We want to be flag-bearers for British cuisine, because we think British cuisine, when done properly, is as good as any other country’s food in the world.” With the new restaurant, they will take on an entire island of British food — and see how Korea likes it.

Getting there c Itaewon station, exit 1. Walk straight down the street, take the third right and walk up the hill, passing OKitchen on your left and Bastille on your right. Battered Sole is located just beyond the intersection on the left-hand side. Follow them on Facebook or Twitter (@BatteredSole) for up-to-date info on hours and opening specials. 51

FOOD & DRINK Edited by Shelley DeWees (shelley@groovekorea.com)

Seoul Veggie Kitchen

Phot

o s by S h e l l e y D e W ees

and

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We es

How to milk E an almond Blend this humble kernel with water and make your nut milk dreams a reality

xactly nine zillion times better than anything you can get at the foreign mart — and laughably easy — creamy, dreamy almond milk is the perfect accoutrement to your morning cereal and will actually hold you over until lunch. And unlike store-bought versions, there ain’t no nasty shit in this version; it’s just raw nuts and water. The incredible richness! The impossible freshness! Let’s get to it.

About the writer: Shelley DeWees worked as a vegan chef for a Buddhist monastery before moving to Seoul. She is a columnist and the food editor for Groove Korea. — Ed.

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Taste, add some sweetener if you’re feeling sassy and then pour the almond milk into a pitcher and savor your victory. Granola, berries, oatmeal, banana smoothies — you really can’t go wrong. Easy almond milk Ingredients •1 cup raw, unroasted almonds •4 cups water, plus more for soaking •1-2 tbs honey, agave, or maple syrup (if you want)

Place the almonds in a small bowl and cover with about 3 cm of water, then slap on some plastic wrap and put the bowl in the fridge. Let the nuts soak overnight. The next day, drain and rinse the almonds before throwing them in the blender with 1 1/2 cups fresh water. Buzzzzzz for three loud minutes until things are smooth and creamy white. Add the remaining 2 1/2 cups water and blitz for an additional minute. Taste, add some sweetener if you’re feeling sassy and then pour the almond milk into a pitcher and savor your victory. Granola, berries, oatmeal, banana smoothies — you really can’t go wrong. Note: Your homemade milk will last about five days in the fridge. The almond meal will settle to the bottom as it sits, much like pulp in orange juice, so give the pitcher a quick stir before serving for optimally homogenous nut-crumb distribution. Alternatively, if you don’t dig the pulp, you can strain it out with a pair of pantyhose. Those things really do have a purpose!

Destinations Edited by Shelley DeWees (shelley@groovekorea.com)

Myanmar Come with an open mind, leave with a full heart Story by Connor Dearing Photos by Neal Singleton

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F Slowly, beautifully, layers upon layers of temples and pagodas showed themselves in the desert horizon, the mist disappearing behind the Irrawaddy River as hot air balloons filled the panorama. We could not have been anywhere else in the world — this was Myanmar.

or the seasoned backpacker, night buses present an alluring transit option: They can usually be booked on the fly, and often save you from wasting precious daylight hours on road travel. The downside? Arriving in the awkward morning hours, too late to find a room and too early to check into the one you’ve booked. It was 4:30 a.m. in Bagan and, luckily, my travel partner and I had an appealing alternative. Flashlights in hand, we headed out on foot through the pitch-dark desert landscape, following a shoddily paved road. As the sky began to brighten and uncover the ancient details, our tiredness made way for adrenaline and we turned onto a sand path toward Shwesandaw Pagoda. Pockets of warm blue were creeping out of the clouds as we reached our destination, so we climbed five tiers of impossibly steep steps, took a seat on cold bricks and watched as the history of our surroundings was revealed. Slowly, beautifully, layers upon layers of temples and pagodas rose up out of the desert horizon, the mist disappearing behind the Irrawaddy River as hot air balloons filled the panorama. We could not have been anywhere else in the world — this was Myanmar. A stunning country with warm-hearted, laidback people, the nation also known as Burma is becoming increasingly traveler-friendly. Yet beyond the glittering stupas lies a tragic past that haunts its confounding, if improving, present. Some of those grand, imposing temples I witnessed in Bagan date back to the 10th century, back when the Bamar ethnic group gained power and prominence. Today the Bamar people still make up 65 percent of the population, but the borderlands that house many of the Karen, Shan, Wa and other minor ethnic groups are a source of constant conflict (and are highly off-limits to tourists). Many people come to Myanmar searching for George Orwell’s perspective, since the famous British author spent his military posting in the country when it was held as a boundary region for the British Empire in India. Others come to make sense of the troubling headlines about repression of free speech and human rights abuses. Still others come in search of untouched Asia, since Myanmar, having recently loosened its restrictions on tourism, lacks the mass commercialism or speedy Wi-Fi seen elsewhere. In many ways it still feels traditional and authentic. I can’t pinpoint my exact reasons for coming to Myanmar; it could have been any of the above, or maybe it was none of them. I’d spent last winter raving with the incoherent at a Full Moon Party in Koh Phangan, Thailand, avoiding the pressing gaze of ladyboys in Chiang Mai and chilling out in bungalows in Laos. I was ready for a new ad-

Destinations Edited by Shelley DeWees (shelley@groovekorea.com)

venture, something that was going to require more planning and more perspective. Obtaining a visa in Seoul turned out to be relatively easy. The embassy, located right by Hangangjin Station, has limited hours but can

Living in Korea, where that sort of thing is usually confined to the screens of our smartphones and a reliant 4G connection, it was truly moving to witness the young and old, male and female, Buddhist and Christian, Burmese and tourist, all communicating their curiosities under a hazy red sky. process visas in just four days. The flights in and out of Myanmar from Bangkok were also relatively cheap ($58 one-way), though the significant hurdle for budget-travelers had not

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yet revealed itself: finding accommodations. The country is slowly embracing tourism, but people are coming at a rate that outpaces the development; as such, hotels are scarce and must be booked in advance. Once in the country, though, it’s a surprisingly liberating travel experience. Outside of Bagan, the number of must-see locations, famous museums and blogged-about foodie joints starts to dwindle. Instead, I was free to let my route be shaped by my interactions and senses, relying on locals and forming close bonds with the few other backpackers I encountered. We started our trip in Mandalay, Myanmar’s second-largest city, which is best described as a massively overgrown village. Legitimate, metered taxis were nowhere in sight, so we opted for motortaxis, or men who charge a small rate to take you around on the back of their ride. We ended our first day watching the sunset on Mandalay Hill, a 40-minute barefoot climb through towering Buddha statues

and aesthetically diverse temples. The sunset wasn’t spectacular, yet the energy at the peak was electric. The hilltop pagoda was packed with people: teenage monks, Burmese medical students, young backpackers, English and German tour guides — so many conversations and connections happening all at the same time. Living in Korea, where that sort of thing is usually confined to the screens of our smartphones and reliant on a 4G connection, it was truly moving to witness the young and old, male and female, Buddhist and Christian, Burmese and tourist, all communicating their curiosities under a hazy red sky. After a few days in and around Mandalay we were in Bagan, an ancient city of bronze brick-and-stucco religious structures. Here you can witness, perhaps more clearly than anywhere else, Myanmar’s prominent past and the corruption of today. Since it’s the main tourist spot in the country, elaborate new hotels with cascading waterfalls, pristine pools and lush landscapes are everywhere, symbols

of wealth that are generally owned and operated by former members of the Myanmar military elite. Between them lie older displays of wealth and power — huge Buddhist temples built by former kings — and tucked away a little further are the slums where residents of Bagan live and survive. It is easy to feel cynical about this naked disparity, but hard not to be won over by the temples, the natural beauty of the desert landscape and the transformation of the sky each sunrise and sunset. The next day we joined a boisterous group for a three-day trek from Kalaw to Inle Lake. As the most accessible and popular trekking route in the country, we certainly weren’t alone on our expedition. But upon sleeping on chilly bamboo floors, eating fresh fish curry cooked on an open fire and patronizing the village shop that sold just one item (the essential Myanmar beer), it was clear that the route’s popularity was new; the conditions were still rugged, with locals who were simul-

taneously curious and cautious. My Myanmar circuit ended in the country’s economic capital, Yangon, a city that wears its colonial history quite visibly on its tattered and stretched-out sleeve. Before the British and the backpackers there was Buddhism, a devotion that has remained constant amid the turmoil and development. And so, fittingly and unsurprisingly, the city’s main tourist attraction is the country’s most sacred Buddhist site, the giant gold Shwedagon Pagoda. The path to the entrance is discouraging: A blind man will vacantly beg for your money, children barely 5 years old will ask you to buy a plastic bag and stray dogs will bark fiercely. An $8 entrance fee also awaits you, an amount much more than the weekly earnings of the average citizen of Myanmar (which will go directly to the military government), but once you finally reach the interior of the pagoda you’ll be positively dazzled: Its insides are ablaze with gold, so much that people across the country and monarchs throughout history have had to

donate their own stores just to maintain the temple. It’s utterly breathtaking, and almost impressive enough to erase your memory of the walk up to the entrance. Almost. Such are the complications of visiting a country like Myanmar, as you’re never quite sure what’s going to happen. It may be difficult to be fully optimistic when visiting, yet when the sun sets, gold relics are illuminated and the world is hushed, I can’t imagine a better setting to contemplate the complexities.

Getting there c Korean Air runs a direct flight to Yangon from Seoul, and there are several daily connections from Bangkok, Kuala Lumpur, Calcutta and Singapore into both Yangon and Mandalay. Myanmar Airways and Air Bagan have poor safety records (there were two fatal crashes in the 1990s and several close calls in 2008), so try to book through other channels.

Destinations Edited by Shelley DeWees (shelley@groovekorea.com)

10 reasons to pack up and head south Story and Photo by George Kalli

or the past few years, Myanmar has been emerging from beneath the cloak of mystery it’s lived under for decades, isolated from the rest of the world. This seclusion has fostered a dynamic culture unlike that of anywhere else, but things are changing quickly. Here’s why you should go say “mingalaba” to wonderful and wacky Myanmar now, before globalization subdues much of its charm.

Men wear skirts The longyi, an ankle-length skirt formed by securing a sheet of cloth around the waist, is the clothing of choice — in lieu of pants or shorts — for the vast majority of Myanmar males. They’re held in place by a confounding

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combination of folds which, when done correctly, not only secure the longyi but also form a handy pouch for your tobacco and money.

Women are slathered in tree-bark paste – even in the airports Thanaka, a beige paste smelling faintly of sandalwood, is the ubiquitous traditional makeup and sunscreen of Burmese women (and many men, too). It helps remove acne, promotes smooth skin, provides a cooling sensation and acts as a sunblock all at the same time. While basic circular and rectangular cheek patterns are most common, it is not unusual to see thanaka-crafted hearts, smiley faces and more abstract patterns and designs all over people’s faces.

Bloody drool (but not really) Myanmar is a betel leaf-chewing country. A concoction made of areca nut and slaked lime wrapped in a betel leaf is addictive and makes you feel good — really good. But it also stains the mouth a shockingly deep blood-red color. With nearly every man and woman throughout Myanmar chewing (and spitting) betel, many streets appear to have been the setting for a knife fight in a Quentin Tarantino film.

You get to smooch your server It is not necessary to learn the Burmese word for waiter or waitress. Instead, you need to practice puckering up. The method to request the attention of your server is to make a loud smooching noise, typically repeated

twice. Smooch the sky to order some fermented tea leaf salad or mohinga, which are thin rice noodles topped with crispy fried vegetables and lentils served in a fishy broth, respectively. Or you can try fried, pounded sparrow with fried locust and a pig ear salad. Wash it down with some Myanmar beer, a surprisingly tasty beverage.

karma-building public. Also common are processions of more rambunctious, school-aged monks-in-training, as well as female monks (also shaved bald) cloaked in pink. The vows monks take dictate that they are allowed just four possessions aside from their robes: an alms bowl, a needle, a razor, and a water strainer.

There’s a zedi for every horizon

The Myanmar bottle opener

Over 10,000 religious structures — zedis, stupas, shrines and monasteries — in varying states of upkeep are located within the Bagan Archeological Zone alone, an area measuring a scant 13 km by 8 km. Spending a leisurely day on a bicycle, you can easily visit dozens of religious sites and have the majority of them all to yourself.

An oversized popsicle stick with a screw on the end. No-nonsense, ingenious practicality.

There are monks — Everywhere Myanmar is teeming with ‘em. Approximately 500,000 bald monks, each swathed in their maroon robes, proceed through cities and villages each morning collecting offerings from the

Folks take pilgrimages to see a rock The Golden Rock of Mount Kyaiktiyo is one of the holiest sites in Myanmar and the final destination of the country’s most popular pilgrimage. The glimmering, golden rock sits perched atop a mountain cliff. What keeps the Golden Rock from tumbling down into oblivion? A strategically placed counterweight consisting of one single holy Buddha hair.

You get to stroll barefoot in pigeon shit Long-held Burmese religious customs dictate an absolute ban on footwear, including socks, within any of its holy sites, but the removal of grime — particularly pigeon droppings — does not warrant nearly as stringent a following. Even in the slippery, bat guano-streaked Buddha caves, this tradition is not to be taken lightly. Bring napkins.

And legitimately human-powered Ferris wheels?! An awestruck Anthony Bourdain stumbled upon this feat of determination, and when I saw it I was likewise impressed. In lieu of using electrical power to rotate a Ferris wheel, the weight and momentum of children perilously hanging, kicking and swinging from its superstructure keeps the big wheel spinning.

Destinations Edited by Shelley DeWees (shelley@groovekorea.com)

A temple stay for the tireless T h r e e k i c k - a s s d ay s a t G o l g u l s a Story and Photos by Gaea Dill-Dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Ascoli

The first night started out easy. We ate dinner. We had an orientation. We met the other guests. We were told the CliffsNotes version of meditation practice. We listened to a chanting service. Then we meditated. This was the thing I really dreaded: sitting still in an uncomfortable position and thinking of nothing.

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e jogged up the short hill from the main road to the Golgulsa Temple gates. Check-in was listed as between 2 and 5 p.m. It was 5:10 p.m., and our tardiness wasn’t helping my nerves. My partner Jason and I were heading into a temple stay, and I was filled with anxiety. Meditation is something I think I ought to do because of all the benefits, but the idea of 4 a.m. makes me scowl; there can be nothing beneficial about being awake that early, no matter how many centuries the monks have been doing it. Both Jason and I have been training in martial arts for most of our lives. For the last 10 years we’ve stuck to training in hwarangdo, a style derived from the traditions of the ancient Hwarang warriors of the Silla Dynasty. Since the tea ceremonies and quiet meals of a traditional temple stay didn’t have much appeal, we found one with warrior monks instead. The monks at Golgulsa Temple train in sunmudo, another style derived from the Hwarang warriors. The first night started out easy. We ate dinner. We had an orientation. We met the other guests. We were told the CliffsNotes version of meditation practice. We listened to a chanting service. Then we meditated. This was the thing I really dreaded: sitting still in an uncomfortable position and thinking of nothing. We pulled out cushions, placed them on the cold floor, sat and breathed. I made it about five minutes before my thighs started to ache, so I focused on my breathing. But my foot cramped. The back of my arm itched. My thighs hurt. I had to straighten my leg; I slid it forward as silently as I could. I itched my arm. And when the lead monk hit the drum, I folded my leg back in to hide my failure. Next, it was time for training, the thing I was most excited about. The beginner group started with front kicks; the instructor demonstrated how to stand and kick forward with his hands moving in time with his feet, and then we copied him (or at least tried). The side kicks were harder, but I smiled as I wobbled and hopped to keep one foot off the ground. This was my version of fun! Just as expected, our 4 a.m. wake-up the next morning came far too soon. We started with chanting, then sat in meditation for another half hour before we went outside for walking meditation. After several slow circumnavigations of the stupa, we turned downhill. This kind of meditation was much more to my taste; I was moving and outdoors, the two states I most love, and though my thoughts still wandered, I was aware of the present moment. The sun crept over the horizon, the birds murmured to each other in the trees and clouds turned from gold to white as I stood and watched. Here was my kind of peace.

Later that evening, after watching a martial arts demonstration and eating dinner, we had our second evening training session. I thought I had an idea of what to expect and made sure to wear a long-sleeve shirt under my vest and put on a thick pair of socks. Training started as one big group. The head monk said jog, so we did. After about five minutes, I was warm, and after 10, I tossed my sweater in a corner. After 15, I was regretting the extra long-sleeve shirt. When we stopped running, we changed to walking with our hands on the ground, both backwards and forwards. We walked like ducks, did wheelbarrows and leap frogs, and with all of us sweating and panting, the lead monk just smiled. The next morning, training started with jogging in two lines. We ducked, dodged and kicked our way to the top of that hill that had taken me 15 minutes to walk up. At the bottom of the stairs, I had sweat running into my eyes, despite the frost still melting off the grass. I prayed we were done. Instead, the senior monk crouched down and hopped up four stairs like a black-clad frog. Behind him, we hopped as well as we could: I made it to the second-tolast stair and hopped, but missed the top of the last step and went sprawling. I landed face first at the monk’s feet. He smiled, gave me a thumbs-up, then began walking headfirst down the stairs in a perfect push-up position. We gawked as the stairs turned into a series of planks and push-ups. I made it halfway down before he called us in for the bows. If it had been simple bend-at-the-waist stuff we would’ve been fine, but instead we knelt, placed our heads on the floor and stood back up. One hundred and eight times. The first dozen or so involved a lot of popping knees and creaking joints. By the end we were wobbling; we had to use our hands to push ourselves vertical at the end of each bow. Afterwards we put away our pillows and went into a tea ceremony, and as we eased ourselves into seated positions, the monk chuckled. He said we looked like survivors. I don’t know that I found inner peace through my temple stay at Golgulsa Temple, but it felt good to use my muscles, breathe cold air into my burning lungs and cheer on my fellow trainees. The mountain we climbed has been home to warrior monks since the Silla Dynasty, and my hops up those stairs were the same route taken by Hwarang warriors. And although sunmudo is a different style to my own hwarangdo, they share a common ancestor, one whose footsteps I was following. For a few days, I lived in that community. The daily routine of meditation and training suited me more than I thought it would, and if I have the chance, I will happily spend another few days being chased up a hill by a monk or shooting arrows into the muddy ground.

Getting there c Take the KTX to Singyeongju

Station, then take bus 50, 60, 61, 70, 203 or 700 to Gyeongju Bus Terminal. Transfer to bus 100 or 150, get off at Andong junction (about a 50-minute ride) and walk 15 minutes up to Golgulsa.

Destinations Edited by Shelley DeWees (shelley@groovekorea.com)

Samcheok The perfect place for beaches, beers - and penises

Story by Ian Henderson / Photos by Ian Henderson, Marcus Gomersall, Niels Vollrath and Tom Stockwell

rankly speaking, I checked so many things off of my Korean bucket list during my first few years here that if it’s not on the Seoul transit system, I usually don’t go, preferring to save that money for an international destination. There is, however, one major exception: Samcheok, a place I go to every year, and will for as long as I’m in the country. All it takes is a three-and-a-half-hour bus ride (on one of those comfy bastards, like the airport limo) and then you’re on the coast of southern Gangwon Province. Around the bus terminal near downtown Samcheok are a ton of good, cheap motels that’ll run you 30 bucks a night. The buses to local destinations also run from there, and right next to the terminal is an information booth. That is your command center. Timetables for transit, pamphlets, whatever you need — they’ll take care of you. Utilize this resource.

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Only a fool would go to Busanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s beaches in the peak months, but Samcheok is a treasure.

Destinations Edited by Shelley DeWees (shelley@groovekorea.com)

Photos courtesy Niels Vollrath of MomoCha Fine Teas and Tom Stockwell at waegook-tom.com. -Ed.

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Samcheok is known as the Cave City, and once hosted an international cave expo. The expo-park and museums are still in operation near the downtown area, and are cool in that retro, place-that-time-forgot kind of way. Naturally, there are some actual caves as well. Those are accessed via a countryside bus — ask the info folks for schedules and times. The main one, Hwanseongul, is Korea’s largest limestone cave and will cost you 4,000 won to see. After riding the monorail up to the entrance, set aside a couple of hours to explore the caverns on catwalks. This one is huge and has lots of bizarre psychedelic lights inside — I felt the immediate urge to become a super-villain and make it my grotto-lair — though the other cave isn’t as impressive, costs 12,000 won and has to be reserved online. On the bright side, it does have a monorail that goes into the cave, and that’s cool. No matter what you decide to do, it’ll be pretty; the whole area is loaded with minty evergreens and tendrils of mist, and feels more like Northern Europe than South Korea. Most of Samcheok’s draws are situated in a way that one area per day is the most feasible method of seeing them, so use your evenings to see what the downtown area has to offer. Low-key would be an apt descriptor: There’s the ubiquitous fried chicken and beer joint, a decent brick-oven pizzeria and a central park with a water show synchronized to classical music in the summer months. There is also a giant tree made of worked silver, with a scale replica of the Christ the Redeemer statue from Rio overlooking the whole gaudy affair. Bearing all this in mind, it’s strangely comforting to sit there and people watch while enjoying the best local ale the CU Mart has to offer. Only a fool would go to Busan’s beaches in the peak months, but Samcheok is a treasure. There are several beaches nearby, but the best one, Yongwha Beach, is a 30-minute bus ride south. The white(ish) sand and a cove that curves around on both sides make for some amazing swimming. You can stand chest-deep and see your toes wriggling in the sand, and the snorkeling rules. There are speedboat rafts you can pay to ride in the summer and some other touristy amusements, but just beach-going is fine enough. But staying in one of the minbaks here, although tranquil, isn’t recommended unless you enjoy subsisting on a diet of ramen and Pringles, as restaurants can be hard to come by. Just stay the day. This area is also the southern terminus of a rail bike system, which runs along old train tracks a decent stretch up the coast and through a bunch of lit-up tunnels. The rail bike is sweet, but as usual, the fun police couldn’t let anything be that easy, so you need to buy tickets online. Once again, make the info booth people your friends and hassle them regularly. Farther down the same bus route from Yongwha Beach is one of the greatest hidden gems in Korea: Haesindang Gongwon, colloquially known as the Penis Park. Legend has it that some young maiden died a virgin in nearby waters on her wedding night, so local

fisherman attempt to placate her horny spirit to ensure good catches and friendly seas. They did this in the most logical way possible: erecting (!) giant phallic statues of all shapes and sizes along the coast. There are literally thousands of penis sculptures — a veritable forest of dicks. It’s weird, yeah, but perhaps the most disturbing and amusing thing about the area is watching generally conservative older Koreans gettin’ freaky with the sculptures, breaking the Korean laws of normalcy with what can best be described as an “aju-twerk.” Like staring at the sun, I can still see it when I close my eyes. Next to the park is the fishing village museum, which is neat and features some uproariously bad taxidermy, and in the summer there’s a festival here where you can rent glass-bottomed boats to enjoy the crystal-clear waters. When you’re done looking at penises and ready to head back to town, it pays to be aggressive when getting on the bus; a lot of young soldiers will be on it, and standing the whole way back sucks.

Perhaps the most disturbing and amusing thing about the area is watching usually conservative older Koreans gettin’ freaky with the penis sculptures, breaking the Korean laws of normalcy with what can best be described as an ‘ajutwerk.’ Like staring at the sun, I can still see it when I close my eyes.

Before making your way home, consider one last attraction: the sea train, which runs between Gangneung, Donghae and Samcheok and provides a scenic roll down the coast with the seats turned sideways for optimal viewing. For some reason, the operators decided it would be a good idea to enhance the experience with an onboard group bingo game. We adamantly refused to take part, but still, it’s fun. Simply put, Samcheok is a quick and easy summertime getaway. But there’s one final thing you should know: If going back to Seoul on a Sunday, leave in the morning or late at night to avoid traffic. If you’re new to Korea and aren’t aware of this problem, then God help you should you choose not to heed this warning.

Getting there c Buses from Seoul to Samcheok depart from

Express Bus Terminal every hour, and from Dong Seoul Bus Terminal at Gangbyeon Station every two hours.

MUSIC & ARTS Edited by Emilee Jennings (Emilee@groovekorea.com)

F e e l

t h e

h e a t

Story by Josh Doyle / Photos courtesy of Brent Sheffield of Kimchibytes

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n 2011, Chung Shin-yeob of Seoul made his way to Nevada in search of a city called Black Rock: the epicenter of weird; a countercultural headquarters of sorts. He wanted to become a resident there, but his timing had to be perfect. Black Rock is only a city for one week of the year. Any other time, it’s just an empty space in the desert. For one week at the end of August, this corner of the desert plays host to Burning Man, a seven-day festival known for its leave-no-trace principle, colorful expressions of individuality and open-minded community. It’s a festival where 40-foot statues are built to stand for only one week, where people dress in clothing fit for a rave on some distant moon (or wear nothing at all) and where the only entertainment, food and shelter is what you bring, build and share with everyone else. Looking back on his first Burning Man, Chung, or “Shinmasta” as he’s known among Burners, can only describe the event as “awesome.” Maybe he’s too awestruck to say more, but his actions speak loudly. Whereas most people leave Burning Man with a head full of memories and a three-day hangover, Chung left with an idea: He wanted to take the festival home. “I wanted to share the experience of Burning Man culture in Korea,” Chung says. It was an ambitious plan. When you look at the cultural differences between California, where Burning Man originated, and Korea, you can predict a few problems. The number of people in Korea willing to

be publicly nude, dye their hair pink or walk around on stilts is probably about 1 percent of what it is in the U.S. None of these acts are a requirement at Burning Man, but they’ve all become pretty standard. Hunter Lind, a California native and several-time Black Rock resident, once lived around the corner from Baker Beach, where Burning Man started in 1986. Now he’s helping shape Korea’s regional Burning Man event, known as Korea Burn, by heading up ticket design and guiding this year’s theme. He says getting Korea Burn off the ground hasn’t been easy. “Getting a project like this done in Korea … in such a conservative country, is really hard. I’m still in awe at how well they have executed it,” says Lind. But the world belongs to those who won’t take no for an answer. Chung and a handful of others held the first Korea Burn on a beach near Incheon in 2011. There were no tickets then, just a desire to share that feeling of freedom and community. The Korean incarnation is now entering its fourth year, with attendance in the thousands. Like Burning Man itself, Korea Burn’s growth has been exponential, requiring yearly changes of venue to fit the growing crowd. No one is sure how big it will get, but one thing Korea has proven time and again is its ability to take something small and make it 1980’s Pac-Man-famous overnight. The instant popularity of cafés, Psy and colorful hiking gear are the most obvious testaments to this reality. So far, it’s still in the catching on phase, at least

MUSIC & ARTS Edited by Emilee Jennings (Emilee@groovekorea.com)

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with Koreans. The festival’s last couple of years have been exceptional events where many claimed to have enjoyed their best times in Korea. The problem, however, is not enough of them were Korean. Park Mi-joo, an art journalist and Seoulite, was among last year’s Burners. She loves Korea Burn, but says there are multiple reasons for why so few Koreans took part last year. The first point she makes is that it “looks like a foreigner festival.” It’s an easy perspective to understand. Walking around at last year’s Burn we could have been anywhere in Northern California, Ontario or even Australia; it did not feel like a remote beach in Korea. Looking back at the footage he captured of Korea Burn last year, Lind says “the ratio of foreigners to Koreans was even higher than I thought. It was about 80 percent foreigners to 20 percent Koreans.” Park pointed out that the problem is mostly a lack of awareness, and the Korea Burn team is taking steps to improve the ratio of Korean visitors to this year’s Burn. After finishing the first-ever all-Hangeul version of the flyer, Lind is feeling hopeful: “I really predict this ‘Getting a project like this year to be much more of done in Korea … in such a a cultural melting pot.” conservative country is really Their tactics sound promising, but there are hard. I’m still in awe at how cultural differences that well they have executed it.’ no amount of clever outHunter Lind reach will solve. Park’s second observation for why Koreans aren’t interested is more of a sanitary one: the lack of shower facilities, and the icky idea of sleeping in tents. Well, you can’t convince everyone. But for those who welcome the idea of sleeping outside, fire shows, hoola-hooping to drum and bass beats and splashing body paint on each other for a few days, then Korea Burn 2014 will not disappoint. According to Lind it’s going to be a lot like last year, but better. “This year we are attempting to make the entire event more cohesive. There will be a more versatile execution of the art, atmosphere, and even music.” And fire. Lind promises this year’s fire show will top last year’s, which he thinks was the best Korea has seen yet. This year’s event on Cheongpo Island will also see a jump from two days to five, running from July 3 to 7. Korea Burn is still in the grassroots phase and the kinks are still being worked out, but it’s heading in the right direction. The event is a smaller, more intimate gathering than Burning Man, hosting only a few thousand people to Black Rock’s 65,000. The goal, however, is not to compete with the original festival; it is to embody those same principles of sharing and self-reliance that Chung Shin-yeob wanted to bring home, which Korea Burn does in abundance. But don’t take it from anyone else; go see for yourself. Burning is better felt in person than talked about.

More info Korea Burn runs from July 3 to 7 on Cheongpo Island. More detailed information can be found at fb.com/KoreaBurn.

MUSIC & ARTS Edited by Emilee Jennings (Emilee@groovekorea.com)

Discovering the unseen

Urban exploration Story by Remy Raitt / Photos by Joseph Jung

he go-to setting when films show junkies shooting up or blonde babes getting axe murdered, abandoned buildings have a bad rep. And while many try to avoid the graffiti-ridden spots that litter cities and towns around the world, others actively hunt them down for exploration, documentation and appreciation. One such urban explorer is Korean-American Joseph Jung, a New York City native who has been living in Korea since 2011. Armed with a camera and an ultra-wide lens, Jung captures the innards of abandoned schools, institutions, amusement parks and other decaying or forgotten structures across the peninsula, and then shares these powerful images on his site Abandoned Korea. Groove Korea caught up with Jung to find out more about this intriguing hobby.

‘I’m originally from NYC, so I’ve spent a few years there exploring everything I could, from the underground Amtrak tunnels to decommissioned Cold War missile bases.’ Joseph Jung Groove Korea: When did you get into urban exploration (urbex)? Joseph Jung: During university, a friend told me about an abandoned tunnel with a bunch of graffiti that he had explored. He invited me to join him, but I didn’t really understand it the way he described it; I

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thought it was some graffiti gallery of sorts and turned down his offer. It wasn’t until he showed me the pictures that he took there that I was like, “I need to go there.” Since then I’ve been hooked. What about the hobby keeps you hooked and gets you up early on the weekends? A variety of reasons. For one, some of these places are just plain cool. A disused Cold War missile base? Heck yes. An entire abandoned university campus? Sign me up. Secondly, there’s a certain thrill when it comes to exploring and photographing some of the more dangerous or hard-to-get-≠≠≠≠≠≠≠≠≠to places. Did the photography come before or after your explorations? Definitely before. My dad was a photographer, so I remember helping him carry and move equipment from the car for as long I could remember. It wasn’t until university, though, when I cofounded a photography club, that I really took a strong interest in photography. But at the time I didn’t have any focus, so I was just shooting anything and everywhere. Outside of Korea, where else have you explored? I’m originally from NYC, so I’ve spent a few years there exploring everything I could, from the underground Amtrak tunnels to decommissioned Cold War missile bases. In Tokyo, I was able to check out a burned down student dormitory, and in Hong Kong, I met up with a group of explorers there to explore a large hybrid factory of sorts. I also managed to find my way into an abandoned Hakka village island out in the Outer Territories.

August 2011 / Inside a WWI underground ammunition magazine in New York City. Popular among local graffiti artists, the walls inside the magazine serve as an evolving gallery space as artists paint over each others work.

August 2011 / Walking along a stretch of tunnels underneath the Upper West Side of Manhattan in New York City. Another popular spot among graffiti artists, the tunnels were freshly painted over by the authorities during the summer of 2011.

October 2011 / Outside an abandoned middle school in the countryside. The school was demolished in early 2013.

What are some of the similarities and differences you have noticed between the countries? New York, Tokyo and Hong Kong all have a pretty visible urbex scene, and even those who don’t enjoy the hobby can understand why someone may want to photograph these abandoned places. Not so in Korea. There’s a sense of shame here when it comes to anything that doesn’t help market the country in a positive and vibrant light.

‘Unless you have permission to be somewhere, you’ll always be trespassing. … With that said, the mantra in the urbex community is, “It’s always easier to ask for forgiveness than permission.”’ Joseph Jung

What is the urbex community like in Korea? It’s mainly foreigners. There are people spread out across the peninsula, so we’ll post and share photographs of new places we find, but we don’t really meet up that much, except a few times a year like Chuseok or Seollal, which are prime times for exploring as half the city is empty. What are some of your best finds in Korea? My favorite location was the local middle school out in the countryside where I taught my first year in Korea. I was alone out on this remote island itching to make the four-hour ride up to Seoul to explore something when I discovered there was an awesome abandoned school literally 10 minutes from me. I used to go down there every few months, and it was my own personal place for a while. Unfortunately, it has since been demolished. Another favorite location was a neighborhood in Seoul, which was slowly being demolished in parts. From the outside, many of the old smaller houses looked the same, but when I entered this one house, man, it really didn’t deserve to be gone. It exists only in a photograph now.

February 2012 / Inside one of Seoul’s luxury homes, which, along with the neighborhood, has since been demolished.

How do you usually find these spots? I know some guys who hit the road on their bikes with their eyes peeled for possible new locations, but I personally scour around the web through both English and Korean sites as well as mapping street views. We also share reports and new locations amongst ourselves. You must come across a ton of weird stuff on your explorations. Can you share any stories? In Hong Kong, we went out exploring to what we assumed was just an abandoned factory. We walked up a few flights of stairs until we reached the first open floor and all the windows and exits were sealed up with vinyl sheets and tape. Naturally, we cut open the sheets with a key, and on each successive floor we found ourselves on, we found something completely different. On one section we found rooms with padded walls and straitjackets. On another, a morgue, and at another, several prison cells. When we got to the basement we ventured through a hallway and another small space. As we were roaming around, several voices started shouting out at us so we bolted back. Unfortunately, two in our party were cornered by a giant guy with a screwdriver and they had to negotiate their way out. Are most of these sites you explore no trespassing zones? Unless you have permission to be somewhere, you’ll always be trespassing. Even a crumbling house that has been vacant for many years still belongs to someone or some authority. With that said, the mantra in the urbex community is, “It’s always easier to ask for forgiveness than permission.” Do you have a favorite photograph that you’ve taken on an urbex mission? The picture of an underground ammunition magazine is probably one of my favorite pictures. As it’s a popular spot among a lot of graffiti artists, the art on the walls is constantly changing. Though it attracts a lot of photographers, I like to think that there are no other pictures out there that show the tunnels exactly the same as I saw them that day I took the photo.

August 2013 / Sealed doors inside a multipurpose factory in Hong Kong. Among other things, the factory also houses a prison, morgue and a mental asylum.

September 2013 / Looking down from the balcony of an auditorium of an abandoned university campus outside Seoul.

More info Find out more about Jung’s adventures on his site Abandoned Korea, abandonedkorea.com. And while he probably won’t hand out the GPS coordinates of the spots he’s visited, he might point you in the right direction to find your own.

MUSIC & ARTS Edited by Elaine Ramirez (elaine@groovekorea.com)

Keepin’ it groovy Pentasonic brings on the bluesy funk Story by Alex Aguilar / Photos by Romain John

he lounge we settle into is dotted with several disengaged couples. The candlelight glints off their phones in the dimly lit booths. Pop music blares through the sound system, a stark shift from the eclectically infectious rhythms that Pentasonic had just poured out a few minutes earlier. Pentasonic describes itself as “a touch of jazz, a dash of funk, a splash of blues and a sprinkle of pop.” It’s a questionable concoction of elements that proves far more palatable upon experience. As the foursome took the stage, they greeted the crowd with syncopated bass lines, snare drums and optimistic smiles. By the third song a crowd had emerged on the dance floor. Lured by the rhythmic melodies of “Black and White,” curious patrons had congregated with a slight sway in their hips. By the middle of the set, the music seamlessly transitioned to an impeccable rendition of Daft Punk’s “Get Lucky.” The night had been sealed. With a sizable audience, apprehensions abandoned,

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Pentasonic played the rest of the night to dancing feet and clapping hands. “Jiho has a funky jazz thing that he does when he plays,” Ben Akers, the band’s vocalist and guitarist, offers over our first round of gin and tonics. “June likes different styles of music. I grew up listening to Bon Jovi and Def Leppard. I listen to a lot of Brand New, Jamiroquai, Incognito — the funkiest side of what those guys are doing.” It is a mix of sounds and personalities that the band has melded together almost effortlessly through a few lineup changes. Alex Hodges and Ben are the two sole original members, with Jiho Chang and June Bae being recent additions. Yet they all bring an immense amount of talent and experience to the group. June Bae is a professional musical director who learned to play Pentasonic’s songs on his way to the audition. Jiho Chang, the keyboardist, was only supposed to help record the album, but he played so well that they couldn’t let him go.

‘Our goal is to make people happy, to make people dance, to relieve stress... The lyrics are very optimistic and positive.’ June Bae The group maintains the balmy camaraderie shown on stage as we continue to discuss the cultivation of Pentasonic’s sound and open creative process on their self-titled debut album. Their album, released in 2013, is a true representation of the band — professional, energetic and woven together with groove-inducing rhythms. “Actually, our goal is to make people happy, to make people dance, to relieve stress. That’s our goal. You can listen to our songs. The lyrics are very optimistic and positive,” explains June. While the album is well suited to enhance a bleary Monday morning commute, a digital substitute can’t do their live performances justice. Pentasonic’s strength lies in its presence, something Alex, Ben, Jiho and June are more than happy to hear. “That’s a huge compliment,” Ben comments. “When people buy music, they buy it to listen to it in the car or on the subway. But when you come out, the way we’re trying to perform is to say, ‘That’s okay, you can sit down, but why would you want to sit down?’”

‘When people buy music, they buy it to listen to it in the car or on the subway. But when you come out, the way we’re trying to perform is to say, “that’s ok, you can sit down, but why would you want to sit down?”’ Ben Akers “The modus operandi is to shake asses,” Alex clarifies. The importance of giving memorable experiences in an era of digitally consumed music is not lost on these musicians. Since finishing their first album, they are looking forward to new venues and new ventures. Aside from the mainstays of the indie scene around Hongdae and Itaewon, Pentasonic also has its eyes set on Korean summer festivals like Jisan and Pentaport, but its ambition does not end there. “While it’s a long way away, the idea of playing international festivals, perhaps not main stage, is actually a livable dream,” Ben says. The optimism and honesty in their lyrics seems to encompass every facet of Pentasonic’s dynamics. Despite being a semi-foreign band in a notoriously homogenous culture, Pentasonic has managed to win over a Korean audience and expand that support into regular performances and a radio show on KBS, which Ben hosts. Musically, their sound may not be what you expect to find yourself dancing to. Yet the sincerity formed from elements of funk, disco, blues, jazz and pop has an undeniable effect on even the most skeptical of audience members. The ability to elicit such a tangible response from a crowd when commercial pop, rap and electronic music dominate Seoul’s nightlife is telling of Pentasonic’s talent. “You can have the humdrum, stereotypical (act) everyone is following ... but if we take fans to a level of sincerity, they come back because you don’t get that often,” Alex says. More info j Website: fb.com/pentasonicband

MUSIC & ARTS Edited by Emilee Jennings (Emilee@groovekorea.com)

rock n roll seoul

BaekMa

R e c l a i m i n g s o c i e t y, o n e s o n g a t a t i m e Column by Sophie Boladeras / Photos courtesy of BaekMa

n one of those hazy and sleepless nights out in Seoul, a chance encounter on a packed dance floor saw the first meeting of what would eventually become BaekMa. This Seoul-based four-piece has gone on to make delightfully versatile music together ever since. Lyricists Maggie Devlin and Steph Bankston are both avid writers and are committed to expressing their thoughts and experiences through music. Perhaps unsurprisingly, it’s often the things that piss them off the most that inspire their best songs, many of which feature lyrics about drinking, riding (men), making mistakes and that feeling that you get when you lack direction. Their thought-provoking lyrics are heightened by a progressive and experimental sound that melds rock, pop and dance genres into one unique sound. Offstage, however, the three girls all have distinctly different tastes when it comes to music. While Devlin is into folk and rock and is a diehard fan of The Clash, Bankston is more into chill wave, and drummer Eilis Frawley comes from a classical music background and is inspired by anything from Tchaikovsky to Gypsy punk band Gogol Bordello. Combined with the group’s creativity and talent, these varied musical influences ensure that BaekMa always put on a unique and unforgettable show.

74 www.groovekorea.com / June 2014

Groove Korea: Tell us about the band’s name and why you decided to use it. Steph Bankston: Baekma means white horse in Korean, but men have used it in the past to refer to Western women who are, let’s say … on the promiscuous side. I believe it started as slang for Russian prostitutes, but now it could mean any white slut, really. We liked the idea of reclaiming the term for ourselves and showing, through our musical abilities, that Western women aren’t just easy sexual conquests. A lot of our motivation for creating the band came from wanting to give an English voice to the women living in this culture. It can be frustrating to live in a place where women are extremely sexualized in the media, but have no ownership of their own sexuality. If you do not meet this impossible standard of beauty here, you are basically ignored. How was your first ever gig? I read that you threw presents into the crowd? Bankston: It was Christmas Eve, so we gathered random stuff from our apartments and wrapped it up. Everyone got a gift from Santa and a hangover eye mask for Christmas morning. Eilis Frawley: Our first gig was like showing the world my first love; I was so excited and proud to work with these girls and to show people what we had been working on.

BaekMa Maggie Devlin guitar, vocals Stephanie Bankston synth, vocals Mike McGrath bass Eilis Frawley drums

How would you describe your sound and style? Maggie Devlin: That’s a hard question for us! We all come from different approaches and bring a lot of different references to our songs. Some of our stuff is poppy, some danceable and some rocky. I come from a folk/alternative background, and Steph’s flavor is more dance. For the first few months, we struggled to find our sound. I think now, though, we’re more at home with each other’s tastes and letting the songs define themselves. We’re in no rush to sound like X, Y or Z band, or any particular style. Bankston: I agree with Maggie. We are still finding our sound, and I hope it is something that will constantly evolve. Frawley: For me our sound and versatile style is the best element to BaekMa. Every song has a unique and challenging element; it’s really expanding my drumming ability. I’m also pushing for the more poppy/dance sound, but maybe that’s just because I find it the most enjoyable to play! What groups and musicians influence/inspire your sound? Devlin: Too many to list. I’m a diehard fan of The Clash — ever since I saw pictures of them loafing about Belfast in the ‘70s. Joe Strummer is a personality I really admire; I’d like to be as forthright and unapologetic as him when I write songs. I lived in Glasgow for seven years, so the Glasgow scene and Jeepster Records bands like Belle and Sebastian are important to me too. There’s a bit of everything in my head when I’m writing: Ann Peebles, Bowie, Leonard Bernstein. Bankston: I’d love to play simple, chill synth hooks like Washed Out or M83, but with some rocky aspects a la Metric or with even more drive, like Queens of the Stone Age. Frawley: I come from a classical music background, so am mostly inspired by larger ensembles and really enjoy world music; anything from Tchaikovsky, Reich, Cage, Hypnotic Brass Ensemble to Gogol Bordello. The more I spend time with Steph and Maggie, the more I’ve grown to love “popular” music, especially Haim, Solange, Bombay Bicycle Club, Ben Folds and Belle and Sebastian. What types of things do you sing about? Devlin: Drinking and riding. Making mistakes and feeling directionless. We’ve got one song about The Troubles (British band) and another about a guy who stole a puppy. I think myself and Steph are both similar in that we’re very invested in the lyrics, even if they seem daft. The songs are us processing the big, bad world, I suppose. I could never do the David Byrne thing and just write a song about an ev-

eryday object. Bankston: Some themes are (about) trying to grow up, but you live in Never Never Land and expectations are imposed on you by society. It’s the artist’s dilemma that the painful things, the things that piss you off the most, inspire the best songs. What does each member bring to the band? Devlin: Eilis gives our songs the shape they need, and has an enormous sense of experimentation. She’s a very brave musician. She’ll play anything. If she can’t then she’ll learn it and play it for us the following week. Mike is a recent addition to our band. He’s a fun bass player. He’s a great find for us. Steph’s voice and playing are gorgeous; I was a fan of hers when she was in On Sparrow Hills. She really cares a lot about the project, and songwriting with her is a breeze. I can’t really speak for myself. I bring my guitar. I once brought hummus. Bankston: Maggie is a workhorse. She is so dedicated to improving her craft. She has been writing songs for a lot longer than me and has a great sense of lyricism. Her songs are like stories, and her words go beyond the cheesy cliché nonsense you often hear in music. It doesn’t hurt that she’s singing those words with the voice of a Gaelic angel. Eilis is so talented. Without her, we wouldn’t exist. Even though Mike is new, he already has great ideas and is a nice balance to our feminist ramblings. Frawley: Maggie and Steph spend a lot of time working together developing the songs in lyrics, harmonies and structure. They’re inspiring to play with and are constantly working on improving individually and as a unit. Because of their hard work, my job is easy. I come along with a beat or style I want to try out and make it fit; sometimes I like to push the songs in directions they hadn’t thought of — that’s the power of being a drummer! I try to mix my drumming style up as much as possible from song to song. What is the creative process behind your songs? Bankston: It really depends. Sometimes the words seem to flow out of you. Other times, you have the idea for a melody or structure of a song. I seem to get both at different times and then put the two ideas together later. I look forward to when Maggie and I can bring our ideas together and fill in each other’s blanks. What do you enjoy about the live indie music scene in Seoul? Bankston: I think the music scene in Seoul makes it very easy to practice and play gigs.

There are so many jam spaces with top quality equipment and plenty of venues that are usually open to all kinds of bands. There isn’t a competitive vibe here. I like the intimacy within the artist community. We are all working towards seeing Seoul become a more creative and progressive place. McGrath: There are a lot of exciting bands trying different things. The good bands far outweigh the bad bands. Frawley: I enjoy going to play a show and having a venue provide a drum kit, amps and usually a decent sound engineer. This takes a lot of pressure off young bands from buying gear, which means being in a band is more accessible than in many other places around the world. The affordable practice spaces are also ace. Do you get nervous before performing? Maggie: It depends who’s in the crowd. I got really nervous when the boys from my other band, New Blue Death, came to a show recently. Each show comes with fewer nerves, though. At this rate, I’m expecting that in a year or so I’ll be as ballsy as Grace Jones. Steph: I like to have a drink to take the edge off, but not too many, or I’ll end up saying ridiculous things into the microphone. Wait, that happens either way. Frawley: I get nervous, not because of the crowd, but because I want to give the songs the best I can give. It’s kind of a nervous energy that I really enjoy. McGrath: I don’t really get nervous, but I do like a drink. What do you have planned for the future? Devlin: It’s the dark cloud that hangs over every band in Seoul: the “What next?” We just want to keep working together for as long as we can. We’re saving and prepping for an album to come out by the end of this year. Bankston: I definitely want to record an album before we all go our separate ways and move on from Korea. I’d also love to open for an international touring act! Frawley: I hope we can continue to make steady progress as we have over the past six months, and I’m excited for our future! More info j Website: fb.com/baekmaband

MUSIC & ARTS Edited by Elaine Ramirez (elaine@groovekorea.com)

Interview with Geoff Nostrant,

creator of Black Swan Audio Column by Wilfred Lee / Photos courtesy of Geoff Nostrant

eoff Nostrant has managed to shape and understand music, expand his own musical creation “Silvercord” and create his own studio, giving other musical artists here a place to encapsulate their ideas in songs. Artist’s Journey’s Wilfred Lee sat down with Black Swan Audio’s creator Geoff Nostrant to discuss his ideas on music as the savior and doorway to life.

Artist’s Journey brings you daily doses of inspiration, including weekly podcasts featuring artists from around the globe. Learn more at facebook.com/myartistsjourney or www.artistsjourney.org. — Ed.

76 www.groovekorea.com / June 2014

Artist’s Journey: What is your personal interpretation of what music and sound are? How do you perceive them? Geoff Nostrant: Sound is life, literally. Sound is a vibration, and so is pretty much everything we perceive that is translated through the body’s senses. Sound is what I pay attention to most. It’s the quickest way to get my attention. As it is my profession to work and shape sound, my thoughts are never far from music. I feel it has been deeply rooted in my consciousness from as early I can remember. How did Black Swan Audio begin? What is the significance of the name? I started Black Swan when I was finishing up my music degree at Eastern Michigan University. I started doing live recordings for students that had recitals. I remember using these great Russian-made microphones with a (really terrible) MiniDisc recorder. Humble beginnings, equipment-wise, but that’s how I feel one gets better at whatever one’s passion is. And that passion has fueled me to continue to keep learning new things both in songwriting and in production to this day. The name behind Black Swan is a bit of a long story and actually defines why I started recording my own music. When I was a teenager, I started having minor heart problems, which would cause a minor aching pain in my chest. One night, as I lay in bed with more than a few problems on my mind and that dull ache, I suddenly found myself in a different state of consciousness, free from mental anguish. A kind of peace. Curious about what I had experienced, I started reading books about lucid dreaming and out-of-body experiences. One somewhat-related book was “Swan on a Black Sea.” I thought the book name reflected a very nocturnal peacefulness during a time when I was creating an ambient song of that nature. I decided to give the track as well as the album the name. So from all that, I loved the image of a swan on a lonely desolate endless curtain of black waves. Something about that felt ancient and beautiful. A few hundred years ago, a black swan was known for its rarity and the term “black swan” meant something unique or unordinary. So, it was a fun way to convey that in the name of the studio. How do you manage to work with various musicians working in different genres and cater to the particular sound they are searching for? There are many parallels between mixing music and cooking. Different artists with their different genres are a variety of ingredients and spices. Who wants to eat the same meal all the time? I feel the same about music, and it’s such a pleasure when I discover so many artists who not only shine in Korea, but stand up to their peers in the West. And the part that has made my dreams come true is to be involved in the song writing/recording/mixing/mastering process. My career is making and helping make songs! For that, I am a most grateful person. What traits are vital for a producer? I think different producers would tell you different things. I think three things: 1. experience, 2. an open ear and mind to

the artists one is working with and 3. being able to serve the song. They have to do their best to sonically shape the song in the correct way, in a perfectionist way. I (sadly) hear stories from artists I work with about studio experiences that end up junk because the producer/recording engineer had no idea how to serve the song. Serving the song could consist of recording technique, an idea about arrangement, lyrics, melody … The list could go on, but the point is that great songs must stand the test of time and every great producer should want that at all times. What kind of relationship should a producer have with an artist? It’s all up to the artists. They are the ones footing the tab. It’s their own original concepts. So, in my book, the artist calls it. If they want me to help them with any part of songwriting and recording, I’ve got them. But if they need me to stand back and let them call the shots on things they know how they want, I’ve got them. How does music define a culture? There is a connection to something so strong for both the individual and the collective alike. A community with a strong sense of music and art sounds like a good community to me. If one were in a place to have to adhere to preset rules (or) laws about creating and listening to music, it really seems to state quite a lot. How do you capture your own personal experiences and emulate or express them in your own music? So many messages seen and unseen are deeply woven into the fabric of a song. I feel my own personal therapy is creating music. It’s divinely cathartic to turn one’s struggles into a little — or big — piece of art. I started out just experimenting by putting down musical ideas through tape recorders. So honestly, I’d say my history was learning how to use the hardware for recording before really diving into the world of songwriting. After I got that out of the way, and now, years after that in which I have made every single mistake in recording that one can possibly imagine, I don’t have to look at songwriting and be daunted by the fear that the song will suffer in the process of putting it together. The devilish part is the fact that one can become obsessed with getting the right sound, but I bet any artist, musician, songwriter or producer out there can relate that it’s about one’s own musical gems.

More info j Website: fb.com/BlackSwanAudio 77

MUSIC & ARTS Edited by Jenny Na (jenny@groovekorea.com)

AT THE BOX OFFICE THE BIG SCREEN Preview by Dean Crawford

Edge of Tomorrow Directed by Doug Liman

June

Action / Sci-fi 113 minutes

When Tom Cruise first rose to fame in the to an alien race known as Mimics. Cage is un‘80s, he was that cheeky newcomer with a skilled in battle and is killed in action instantly, handsome smile that made the ladies (and yet he awakes that very same morning only to some men) swoon. But after “Top Gun” (1986), relive that fateful day over and over again. He it seemed Cruise was a natural fit for the ac- eventually teams up with Rita Vrataski (Emily tion genre. The “Mission Impossible” movies Blunt), who trains him to become the fierce demonstrated his position as something of an soldier that is needed to win the war against adrenaline junkie, as Cruise insisted on doing the Mimics. To say I’m a little excited for this would be all of his own stunts. Simply looking off the side of Dubai’s Burj Khalifa would have made some an understatement. Time travel, aliens and stuntmen queasy, let alone swinging from side futuristic metal fighting suits? It sounds like “Groundhog Day” (1993) meets “The Termito side, suspended 120 floors in the air! But one thing I’ve noticed is that Cruise has nator” (1984), which sounds amazing! Not to a tendency not to pigeonhole himself into one mention the film is directed by Doug Liman, genre, taking roles in several dramas, musicals who debuted with the excellent “Swingers” and a few sci-fi films; “Minority Report” (2002) (1996) and went on to make cult hits like being one of my favorites. Cruise returns to “GO” (1999) and the first “Bourne” (2002) film, the outer-worldly once again in Doug Liman’s showing that he can handle action as well as anyone else working today. Here’s hoping he “Edge of Tomorrow.” Based on the novel “All You Need is Kill” handles the science fiction aspect of the movie (2004) by Hiroshi Sakurazaka, “Edge of To- just as well and we end up with a movie closer morrow” sees Cruise playing William Cage, a in quality to “Minority Report” than Cruise’s last soldier fighting a losing war in the near future sci-fi effort, “Oblivion” (2013).

Transformers: Age of Extinction Directed by Michael Bay

June

Action / Adventure / Sci-fi 120 minutes (approx.)

Every May sees one of Asia’s best film fes- Moon” (2011) had some of the best use of tivals take place in my adopted hometown of 3-D I had ever seen up to that point, but what Jeonju. It’s a cinematic delight that displays good is a film using the best CGI out there artistic talent from all over the world, screen- when you’re offended by all of the characters ing films from relative newcomers to cinematic and find yourself bored stiff after the 400th greats such as Jean-Luc Godard and David explosion? The inclusion of Marky Mark gives me some Lynch. So in case I watch one art film too many and get a bit too clever for my own good, hope that this offering will veer away from the I have the June release of “Transformers: Age same mindless tripe that has been served up in of Extinction,” the film equivalent of aerosol the past three installments. I enjoyed the majority of “Pain and Gain” (2013), and let’s not cheese, to bring me back down to reality. Mark Wahlberg plays Cade Yeager, a forgot Michael Bay made “Bad Boys” (1995) hard-working dad who is struggling to put his and “The Rock” (1996), so he could have andaughter though college. After buying a seem- other good film in him. The most recent set of interviews for the ingly innocuous used truck at auction that turns out to be Transformer Optimus Prime, Cade movie has Bay comparing the film to Christosoon finds himself in the middle of one of the pher Nolan’s “Batman” trilogy. If he means that most fearsome battles in Earth’s history as the “Transformers: Age of Extinction” will be a dark Autobots have to fight the Decepticons and and brooding film where the lead character uses fear as an existential weapon, I’m throwblah, blah, blah, loud noises. It’s not that the “Transformer” movies are bad ing a skeptical glance his direction. If he means films … Oh, screw it. Yes, they are. Visually, that both projects are, in fact, films, then, yeah, however, I can’t help but admit that they are I guess he might be on to something. usually stunning. “Transformers: Dark of the

GrooveCast GrooveCast host Chance Dorland and columnist Dean Crawford talk movies. Check out the podcast at groovekorea.com. www.groovekorea.com / June 2014

KOREaN DVD CORNER THE SMALL SCREEN Review by Dean Crawford

PG You may not know this about me, but I have the voice of angel. The lucky few who’ve heard my inner Mariah usually witness it around 4 a.m. when most bars have closed and the noraebang begins to beckon. Despite my mad skills, I have never considered entering one of the many talent shows that populate today’s TV schedules, a quandary at the heart of Lee Jong-pil’s “Born to Sing” (2012). When the famous TV show “Born to Sing” comes to town, all of Gimhae goes singing crazy and everyone wants a piece of the action. The film focuses on a bevy of locals with varying levels of talent: First, there’s Bongnam (Kim In-kwon), a once-talented rock star whose dreams have passed him by. Equally passionate is love-struck Hyun-ja (Lee Chohee), who wants any reason to spend time with co-worker Dong-soo (Yoo Yeon-seok), or the grandfather (Oh Hyun-kyung) who wants to connect with his feisty granddaughter Bo-ri (Kim Hwan-hee). Even the town’s mayor, Joo Ha-na (Kim Soo-mi), wants in on the action in an attempt to boost her popularity for an up-

Comedy / Drama 112 minutes

(전국노래자랑) Directed by Lee Jong-pil

coming election. But while it might be a dream for some, it’s a nightmare for others. Bong-nam is so desperate to become a singer that his wife throws him out of the house for lying about entering the show. Hyun-ja is crippled by shyness, which is nearly as bad as Mayor Ha-na, who can’t sing at all. Using a tried-and-true formula in both the fiction and documentary genres, the film keeps things charming while we develop a fondness for each hapless character. Overall, the movie’s premise banks on the fact that most people are at least somewhat familiar with “American Idol”–style TV franchises, but it’s stories like this and “One Chance” (2013) that remind us that the contestant pool includes more than simply fame-hungry wannabes. Much like “Dancing Queen” (2012), you’ll laugh, you’ll cry and no doubt you’ll enjoy seeing some of these interesting characters as they try and make their dreams come true. I know I did, and it inspired me to finally share my gift with the world. That’s right, time to practice: “Yogi-yo! Soju han byeong juseyo!” PG

13 While watching reality TV, we often forget that if we look past the attention-craving carwrecks who often appear on TV talent shows, there are some genuinely talented individuals out there. One such story is that of Kim Hojoong, a teenager who quit the thug lifestyle after his grandmother told him to pursue his real passion — singing. His unusually touching circumstances are the inspiration for Yoon Jong-chan’s 2012 release “My Paparotti.” In this interpretation, Sang-jin (Han Seokkyu) is an uptight music teacher with a short temper and Jang-ho (Lee Jae-hoon) is a teenage thug who has been transferred to Sangjin’s school. Despite Jang-ho’s gangster lifestyle, he has a gift and, behind the bravado, dreams of becoming an opera singer like his hero, Pavoratti. At first, Sang-jin is reluctant, but once he realizes Jang-ho’s passion is sincere, he agrees to take him on as his protégé and train him for a prestigious singing competition happening later that year. But with Jangho’s lifestyle constantly interfering with his dreams, he must make a choice between his brothers who raised him and the music teacher

Born to Sing

Drama 127 minutes

My Paparotti (파파로티) Directed by Yoon Jong-chan

who believes in him more than anyone else. I thoroughly enjoyed “My Paparotti,” and the thing that impressed me most was the chemistry between the two lead actors; I was captivated every time they were on screen. I’ve admired Han Seok-kyu for a long time, and if Lee Jae-hoon’s compatibility with his talented colleague is any indication, I’d bet he has a promising career ahead of him. There’s no getting around how cheesy the film is at times, and it definitely tries hard at manipulating the heartstrings. But because of the way the story builds and the relationships between its characters develop (from the teachers and students who are the comic relief to the gangsters who create tension for the film’s conclusion), you genuinely care for the welfare of Jang-ho and want him to achieve his dreams. I should confess that I may have gotten teary-eyed during a few sequences, particularly the finale with its rousing rendition of “Nessun Dorma.” I usually have a heart of stone, so that just goes to show how much I liked “My Paparotti.”

COMMUNITY Edited by Jenny Na (jenny@groovekorea.com)

Kicking up dirt

With no home turf, Seoul League struggles to survive

Story by Brant Hylinski / Photos by Noah Markus

eoul League began humbly six years ago with lovers of Ultimate Frisbee gathering to throw the disc on patches of grass in the capital. Since then, it has gained momentum, building to the point where Korea now boasts two rec leagues. However, the original league’s survival is now being threatened by a growing conflict over space, dust and a pile of crap (literally). The players are ready, all cleated up with discs in hand, but they have no field to call home. Things started heating up in fall 2012, when the league began getting complaints from park-goers at their usual grass field near Ichon, central Seoul, about the amount of space they were taking up, the dust they were kicking up and the wear and tear on the field. “On particularly busy days, when there were many people trying to play or spend time at the park, families and visitors would complain about us using up such a large portion of space,” says league coordinator Allison Walford, who is known as “Wally” in the Ultimate world. She is also vice president of the Korean Ultimate Players Association — the organizing body for the sport in Korea — and the country’s representative in the World Flying Disc Federation. Walford says the space problem stems in part from a lack of awareness about the sport. “In spite of the running patterns, field type and shoe type being very similar between soccer and Ultimate, many soccer facilities that don’t know what Ultimate is will not even consider renting to our organization,” Walford says. Ultimate Frisbee is a hybrid sport mixing the running and endurance of soccer, the defensive positioning and jumping of basketball and the throwing and catching of the disc reminiscent of a quarterback throwing to a wide receiver in American football. The object of the game is to complete passes to your teammates, working the disc the length of the field into the end zone for a score. Once a player catches the disc, he or she must slow their momentum to a full stop before passing it to a

80 www.groovekorea.com / June 2014

teammate. There are no referees, which puts the power of officiating solely into the hands of the players and creates a level of honest competition that is rarely compromised. The sport is played on all continents of the globe sans Antarctica. It is even up for consideration as an Olympic sport. Seoul League has six to eight teams per season with about 15 to a team, making it a popular pastime for many expats and Koreans in the city. Although the league took steps to reseed the public space in Ichon to get the grass growing again and reduce the dust,

things came to a head last spring when the authorities were called. The league tried to negotiate with park maintenance officials, but Walford says the officials are often unwilling to compromise with recreational athletes and that their decisions seem to be based more on the day and number of complaints than a standard policy about space rental. “More than feeling disappointed or disheartened by the situation, I feel really frustrated,” Walford says. “It’s frustrating how public and private parks thwart sports, not just Ultimate, but all ball sports in their spaces, and put frivolous restrictions upon

who can play on what space and at what time.” The incidents forced the league to move their playoffs to rented rugby fields near Onsu, on the far western boundary of Seoul and Gyeonggi Province. Although the field had a good pitch and a shaded grandstand, it was also hard to get to, so after playoffs they went back to Ichon. When they returned, they found the field blocked off and a pile of rocks they had removed back in their original spot midfield — a clear message that they were no longer welcome. League organizers next turned to the World Cup Peace Park, which seemed ideal. The

‘More than feeling disappointed or disheartened by the situation, I feel really frustrated. It’s frustrating how public and private parks thwart sports, not just Ultimate, but all ball sports in their spaces, and put frivolous restrictions upon who can play on what space and at what time.’ Allison Walford, Seoul League coordinator fields were appropriate for the sport, the location was accessible and they wouldn’t have to pay a fee. They were there for two weekends before they found out that sports teams are not allowed to reserve space there. So they headed back to Ichon, and the complaints started up again. By the end of the fall season, the league had been completely barred from the fields. They got a break when they returned to the park this year in early spring to prepare for a major annual Korean and international tournament on Jeju. The weather was chilly and there were just a few teams on the fields, so they were able to play without interruption. But with the weather warming up, they were playing on borrowed time. The park holds various events on the weekends, including an equestrian event, and other groups are kept off the fields during that time. The league was allowed to play there on weekdays, but as a weekend league that wasn’t much help. And for those who would gather there for pickup games on weekdays, there was another problem: animal droppings. Now they faced the question of rocks or poop — not much of a choice for a sports team. As of April, they were left hoping the warm

weather would hold off for a bit longer so they could figure out what to do and prepare for the upcoming tournament. But it appears that this could be the end of Seoul League — a miserable outcome for league members and their supporters. “Every time I play, I learn more about team sports,” says Song Hyun-woong, who has been playing for two years. “(Not having the) Seoul League would make me very sorry, because it is a big part of my life.” For the league, the consequences are also significant. “If the league did cease to exist, it would effectively eliminate Seoul Ultimate’s primary means of encouraging, supporting and growing new players,” Walford says. “Additionally, it will maim our community’s ability to incorporate and support more experienced players who may arrive from abroad. On average, we have 5-10 experienced players come every year and use Seoul League as a springboard to enter a more competitive level of Ultimate in Korea.” Seoul League is currently gearing up to send eight players (three Koreans and five expats) to the World Ultimate Club Championships in Italy in August. It is the biggest event for the sport and players from all over Korea will suit up for the team, Last Stand, a riff on the Korean movie of the same name. The league will also compete in the Korea Ultimate Players Association nationals in Pohang, North Gyeongsang Province, in the fall, which last year were dominated by two Seoul teams that battled it out for the title. As for the future of the league here in Seoul, that fate is still unknown. “I absolutely believe that the league will live on, whether it be in a slightly different form,” Walford says. “We are continuing to hold out hope that somewhere in the vastness that is Gyeonggi Province, we will be able to find fields that we can play on regularly and without interruption.”

More info Visit koreaultimate.net or leaguelineup. com, or search Seoul Ultimate, Korean Ultimate Players Association or Republic of Korea Ultimate on Facebook. The league is currently seeking sponsors for the players going to the World Club Championships in Italy. Inquiries should be made to team captain Allison Walford at walforda@gmail.com.

COMMUNITY Edited by Jenny Na (jenny@groovekorea.com)

Competition countdown Seoul Gaels gear up to host North Asian Gaelic Games Story by Mark Dowdall Photos by Alan Price

n a warm spring afternoon at Yongsan Army Base, the players of Seoul Gaels are almost finished with their first fitness test of the year. “Thirty seconds,” shouts the coach. “One last push.” Some players pick up the pace, knowing the end is near. Others slow down as their legs start to drag across the turf. Breathing is heavy. Grimacing, they keep going. “Stop!” he shouts. Immediately, multiple players collapse to the ground. Those still standing put their arms on their heads. They had just done 12 minutes of high-intensity running; some surpassed 3 kilometers, while others fell just short. But the long road for the season ahead has begun. Next month, midway through their season, they will see how far they have come since that first fitness test when they host the North Asian Gaelic Games in Namyangju. Up to 200 players from Korea, China and Japan will gather for the July 5 event, which focuses on Gaelic football, a traditional Irish sport. In Asia, it is a nine-a-side game played with a round ball and seven minutes for each half. When played in its full form in Ireland, there are 15 players to a team. Every time a team kicks or hand-passes the ball between the uprights, they get one point. For hitting the back of the net, they get a goal worth three points. As Seoul Gaels enter the final few weeks before the competition, coach Jamie Lynch says both the men and women have prepared well and are already a step ahead of where they were last year. He says a lot of players have done the hard work of training in the gym or at the track on their own, which means the team has had more time in practice to run plays.

“You can train as hard as you want, but the real learning and the real progress can be seen in matches against other teams,” he says. “Thankfully, we have two rounds of the KGGs (Korean Gaelic Games) and the China Games under our belt, so that has given us a fair idea of where we are at and what we need to focus on more.” Seoul Gaels’ men’s and ladies’ teams compete at all levels, catering to everyone from serious athletes to social players who like to have a few drinks with teammates after training. The club has also started a kids’ team as the game becomes more and more popular in this part of the world. They are preparing to put on a kids’ exhibition game at the North Asian Gaelic Games, which will be the first international event the club has hosted since the Asian Gaelic Games in Suwon in 2011. “Our main difficulty was to find a proper playing facility that will be capable of and willing to host such an event,” says chairman Declan Griffin. “Since our club was formed, the one continuous challenge has been finding space to train and play on.” When they secured the Namyangju Sports Center for the event, Griffin described it as a “massive relief.” After the games on July 5, a post-games banquet will be held at the Renaissance Hotel in Gangnam, with many other events for participants and observers to look forward to throughout the weekend. “We are planning a really fun and exciting three days — showcasing all facets of Irish culture, from our sports to our music and everything else in between,” says Griffin. “If we can get a good spread of participants of all levels and ages from all over Korea, Japan, China and even beyond playing Gaelic football here, we will have achieved our primary aim (because) we want to focus on participation.”

More info Find Seoul Gaels online at seoulgaels.weebly.com or look them up on Facebook.

82 www.groovekorea.com / June 2014

‘You can train as hard as you want, but the real learning and the real progress can be seen in matches against other teams.’ Seoul Gaels Coach Jamie Lynch

Seoul Gaels Kids Seoul Gaels Kids train most Saturdays from 11 a.m. to 1 p.m. at Jamwon Han River Park in Apgujeong or at Dwight College. They occasionally participate in touch rugby competitions and won the beginners’ division in the competition in April. This year they hope to travel to Ireland to play a half-time exhibition game in front of 82,000 people at Croke Park stadium and meet the Irish prime minister a second time. They are currently recruiting kids of all ages who would like to play on Saturdays or would be interested in the trip to Ireland.

GrooveCast GrooveCast host Chance Dorland chats with the Gaels. Check out the episode at groovekorea.com.

COMMUNITY Edited by Jenny Na (jenny@groovekorea.com)

Shape up and fly right Seoul Flyers is more than a club – it’s a big running family Story by Anna Lignelet Griffiths Photos by Kerrie Matthee

wine dealer and four-star chef from Italy, a U.S. Army Sergeant from Ohio, an upbeat university professor from Japan and California who loves pink, a Korean head of legal affairs for a major Korean company — these are just four profiles of the 300 active members of the Seoul Flyers running club, which is dedicated to the promotion of running, walking and general health and fitness. In the club, the expatriate nationalities run the gamut. There are members from all over the world, including Asia, Europe and North and South America. The thing that brings them all together is a passion for running. But the group is about more than sports. As former club president Eddie Booth once put it, “The Seoul Flyers are not just a running group; we’re a family.” Current club president Sam Brooks adds that the club has been able to serve as a bridge between expats living in and around Seoul and Korean people: “We want to be good neighbors and continue to contribute to Korean society in positive ways.” It is a volunteer organization whose membership is its most important resource, according to Brooks. “Without them we wouldn’t be able to provide social events, time trials or special activities that serve to enhance an already active running community in Seoul and South Korea,” he says. As for the physical aspect, Seoul Flyers is open to people of all fitness levels. Members have said they worried about joining because they would be looked down on for being too slow or unfit, but later found the opposite to be true. Members cheer each other on at every race and group event — no matter how big or small, and no matter their fitness level, running distance or physical ability. Member Anna Cottrell attests, “Seoul Flyers has provided an opportunity to establish strong friendships and has aided me in reaching my racing goals.” Anna Lignelet Griffiths is the Seoul Flyers’ membership coordinator. — Ed.

84 www.groovekorea.com / June 2014

Column by Dr. Limgwarn Kang

‘The Seoul Flyers are not just a running group; we’re a family.’ Former club president Eddie Booth For new runners, the club has recently begun a “Couch to 5K” group, led on Saturday mornings by board member Marcus White. White has been leading the group of five to 10 runners over a training period of eight weeks to help them reach their goal of running a 5-kilometer distance. While some dropped out of the program after the first few runs, many have stayed with it and some have already reached their goal. Magsoo Choi, one of the group’s more recent recruits, achieved her first 5K at a recent run on the U.S. military base in Yongsan, and was ecstatic about her accomplishment. “It felt awesome when I ran a 5K for the first time,” she says. “There was always someone who supported me, encouraging me to finish. If I had done it by myself, without the encouragement, I wouldn’t have been able to do it as well and it wouldn’t have felt the same.” Not everyone is involved in the group just to reach distance goals. Another new member, Kristina Dziedic Wright, an American mother of two, says the group has helped her stick to a general fitness plan. “It’s really helping to motivate me,” she says. “I’ve never managed to stick to a workout schedule as well as I have these past six weeks.” For the runner who has already achieved the 5-kilometer distance and beyond, there are several professional and semiprofessional runners in the club to offer advice. Norah Newcombe is a member from Ireland who recently won second place in the Guam International Marathon, having already taken first at the Joongang International Marathon. Her advice for distance running is “Every second counts.” She also trains with a coach in Ireland, and for her, “The key is to listen to good advice.” Other distance runners include Ultra-Marathoners Peter Straghan, who just took first place in the Buddhist 108 Ultra event’s 50K, and Chris Sloan, who took third. Seoul Flyers has several options for group runs, which are free and open to both members and nonmembers. These include a track session on Tuesday, hill runs on Namsan on Wednesday and Thursday evenings and Saturday morning runs on the Han River. Up next, they have their fourth annual King of the Mountain 10K on June 7 with 93 racers registered. The club also facilitates entry to Korean-sponsored running- and walking-related events for the expat community. As Newcombe says, they’ll be happy to have you as part of their running community: “My experience with Seoul Flyers has been nothing but positive. It is like a family away from home.”

The new quarantine requirement for importing dogs & cats to Korea

Dr. Limgwarn Kang DVM

Microchip Implantation and Rabies Antibody Test -A microchip should be implanted into the animal’s body and the ID number should be stated in the veterinary health certificate issued by the Quarantine Authority. -Microchips implanted in cats and dogs must be ISO-compliant (ISO11784 and 11785 Standards). For any other chips, importers must bring their own microchip scanners. -The rabies-neutralizing antibody test must be administered by an internationally approved laboratory from the exporting country, from 30 days to 24 months prior to boarding, with a positive result equivalent to at least 0.5 IU/ml or higher. The test results should be stated in the veterinary health certificate issued by the Quarantine Authority. -Dogs and cats younger than 90 days or originating from rabies-free countries do not require rabies-neutralizing antibody tests. Quarantine and Inspection All countries have different regulations and preparation periods to let pets from Korea into the country. See below and get it started at the right time. Otherwise, your pet might end up being quarantined. Japan, Australia and New Zealand Preparation period: 6-7 months before entering the country; Rabies Neutralizing Antibody Titer Test, specific parasite tests and import permits are needed, 180 days before departure. EU countries (except England, Ireland, Sweden and Malta) Preparation period: 3-4 months before entering the country; Rabies Neutralizing Antibody Titer Test is needed 90 days before departure. UAE, South Africa, China and the U.K. Preparation period: 1-2 months before entering the country; Specific tests for each country and import permits are required. USA and Canada Preparation period: 1 month before entering the country; Valid Rabies Vaccination, at least 30 days before the departure date. Countries that ONLY allow live animals in Manifested Cargo England, New Zealand, Australia, Hong Kong, UAE, South Africa, among others

Korea Animal Transport(KAT) & Chungwha Animal Hospital (02) 792-7602 21-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul chungwha77@gmail.com j www.cwhospital.com

More info Find the group at seoulflyers.com or on Facebook.

The Pet Hotel M 02-797-3040

j www.thepethotelm.com

CAPTURING KOREA Edited by Jenny Na (jenny@groovekorea.com)

The

last

shot Photos by Nathan Chesky Interview by Dylan Goldby

86 www.groovekorea.com / June 2014

CAPTURING KOREA Edited by Jenny Na (jenny@groovekorea.com)

atience is key for photographer Nathan Chesky, who is always willing to wait that extra minute to capture candid shots of people in their element. He works out of Jinju, South Gyeongsang Province, where paper lanterns light the cityscape in the fall and the green tea fields of Hadong beckon from just outside town. Groove Korea: Give us an introduction to yourself and your photography. Nathan Chesky: I moved to Korea last year from Asheville, North Carolina. I was left my first camera, a Canon AE-1, by my grandfather, and I have been shooting film, instant and now digital ever since. I enjoy getting into the mess of it all, doing my best to understand what is really happening and coming out with something timeless and honest. Photography, like all art, isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t supposed to be perfect; it is supposed to make you feel something. Currently, I am the staff photographer for WiNK Travels and I am working on several personal projects in Busan.

88 www.groovekorea.com / June 2014

Jinju has a lot to offer. What would you say are your top three things to visit and photograph? Any time I visit a new country or city, the first thing I do is head to the market. It is basically my mantra. The central market in Jinju is JoongAng Sijang. Markets like this one, in the smaller cities of Korea, are my favorite places to take pictures of people engaging in their dayto-day business. Jinju Temple is a main draw for visitors. Inside you will find the Chokseongnu Pavilion, which is atop a cliff along the Nam River and offers a contrasting place to take pictures of the natural scenery or Koreans who are often engaging in traditional rituals. Lastly, many locals will push you towards Seokyu Park to take pictures. Here you will find some great scenes, as well as a rock cave and a high vantage point from which to shoot down toward the cityscape. Though if pressed for time, I would check out Kyungsang National University Campus instead.

CAPTURING KOREA Edited by Jenny Na (jenny@groovekorea.com)

90 www.groovekorea.com / June 2014

You feature a lot of people in your photographs, but they’re rarely engaged with you. What are you looking for when you include people in your pictures? As with all photography, first and foremost it’s all about the light. Once I have found lighting I like in place, I will wait until something strikes me about someone. Anyone with a unique disposition or interesting way of carrying themselves will often translate into something genuine in print. I prefer candid photography and to focus on what is actually happening in the world around me. It is important to capture what first strikes me as fascinating to keep it interesting. If up close, I usually like to obtain at least a nod’s worth of consent. Often I will obtain it, take a few shots and wait for them to think I have finished. Once they have lost interest in me and carried on with what they were doing, then I get that one last shot. This picture is often the keeper. What time of year best suits photographing Jinju? The locals will all tell you May is the time to visit. Although Jinju is full of numerous verdant views in the spring, so are many places. My favorite season in Jinju is autumn. Visit the famous Namgang Yudeung Lantern Festival in October when the Nam River is lit up by luminous, statuesque lanterns. Or come a few weeks after the festival and stay at one of the many hotels on the river at a reduced rate and you will still find the lanterns lining the area around the palace. Is there anything else near Jinju that could be visited on the same trip? In nearby Hadong, in a valley below Jiri Mountain, there are some wild tea fields, which was the first place in Korea to grow tea. It’s magic. Also in Hadong you will find a cultural village set on a mountainside above the Married Pine Trees, which stand alone in a field. This is a picture many photographers seek out in Korea, as the simplicity of the terrain interrupted by these lone trees casts a striking tone when taken at the right time of day. Getting there c To get to Jinju, take a bus from Express Bus

Terminal in Seoul (travel time is approximately 6 hours). Buses also go from Incheon Airport to Jinju’s Intercity Bus Terminal. Departures are at 10:30 a.m. and 1:20 p.m., the travel time is 4 hours and 20 minutes and the cost is 35,000 won (jinjuterminal.kr). The KTX takes roughly 3 hours and 20 minutes. There are also daily flights to Jinju’s Sacheon Airport from Gimpo Airport in Seoul.

LISTINGS

Edited by Sean Choi (sean@groovekorea.com)

EMBASSIES American Embassy (02) 397-4114 • 188 Sejong-daero, Jongnogu, Seoul Canadian Embassy (02) 3783-6000 • (613) 996-8885 (Emergency Operations Center) Jeongdong-gil (Jeongdong) 21, Jung-gu, Seoul British Embassy (02) 3210-5500 • Sejong-daero 19-gil 24, Jung-gu, Seoul Australian Embassy (02) 2003-0100 • 19th fl, Kyobo bldg., 1 Jongno 1-ga, Jongno-gu, Seoul Philippine Embassy (02) 796-7387~9 • 5-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Spanish Embassy (02) 794-3581 • 726-52 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul French Embassy (02) 3149-4300 • 30 Hap-dong, Seodaemungu, Seoul

TRAVEL AGENTS Fides Travel (02) 755 5470 • fidestravel.co.kr Prime Travel (02) 6739 3570 Shoe String Travel (02) 333 4151 • shoestring.kr/eng/abo01.htm Soho Travel (02) 322 1713 • sohoholiday.com Top Travel Service (02) 737 4289 • toptravel.co.kr/eng Unique Travel (02) 792 0606

DOMESTIC TOURS Adventure Korea (010) 4242-5536 • adventurekorea.com Discover Korea (02) 398-6571 • discoverkoreatour.com/en

Explore Korea sonyaexplorekorea.com Joy Leisure Service (02) 2307-8642 • joyleisures.com Panmunjom Travel Center (02) 771-5593 • koreadmztour.com Seoul City Tour (02) 774-3345 • seoulcitytour.net Tour DMZ (02) 755-0073 • www.tourdmz.com Travel Pants Korea (010) 9961 5765 • travelpantskorea.com

HOTELS & RESORTS Banyan Tree Club & Spa Seoul (02) 2250-8080 • San 5-5, Jangchung-dong 2-ga Jung-gu, Seoul Novotel Ambassador Gangnam (02) 567-1101 • 603 Yeoksam 1-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Grand Hilton Seoul (02) 3216-5656 • 353 Yeonhui-ro, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul Somerset Palace Seoul (02) 6730-8888 • 85 Susong-dong, Jongnogu, Seoul

Seoul Samsung Hospital 1599-3114 • 50 Irwon-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Asan Medical Center 1688-7575 • 88 Olympic-ro 43-gil, Songpagu, Seoul Keimyung University Dongsan Medical Center (053) 250-7167 (7177 / 7187) • 56 Dalseongro, Jung-gu, Daegu

Airlines Korean Air 1588-2001 Asiana Airlines 1588-8000 Lufthansa (02) 2019-0180 Garuda Indonesia (02) 773-2092 • garuda-indonesia.co.kr Jeju Air 1599-1500 T’way Air 1688-8686

Eton House Prep (02) 749-8011 • 68-3 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul A unique British-style Prep School for children of all nationalities from 2-13 years of age. A broad, challenging and innovative curriculum preparing pupils for senior school and life beyond. www.etonhouseprep.com Branksome Hall Asia (02) 6456-8405 • Daejung-eup, Seogipo-si, Jeju Island Daegu Intl. School (053) 980-2100 • 1555 Bongmu-dong, Donggu, Daegu

Dulwich College Seoul (02) 3015-8500 • 6 Sinbanpo-ro 15-gil, Seocho-gu, Seoul admissions@dulwich-seoul.kr www.dulwich-seoul.kr The curriculum from Toddler to IGCSE (ages 2 years to 16 years) follows the best practice of the Early Years Foundation Stage Framework and English National Curriculum enhanced for an international setting.

Jin Air 1600-6200 D ETUR

Park Hyatt Seoul (02) 2016-1234 • 606 Teheran-ro, Gangnamgu, Seoul Lotte Hotel Busan (051) 810-1000 • 772 Gaya-daero, Busanjin-gu, Busan Park Hyatt Busan (051) 990-1234 • 51, Marine City 1-ro, Haeundae-gu, Busan 612-824, Korea

EMERGENCY MEDICAL CENTERS Gangnam St-Mary’s Hospital 1588-1511 • 222 Banpo-daero, Seocho-gu, Seoul Yonsei Severance Hospital (Sinchon) (02) 2227-7777 • 50 Yonsei-ro, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul Seoul National University Hospital 1339 • 28-2 Yeongeon-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul

PO NS MU

NDO

British Airways (02) 774-5511 Cathay Pacific Airways (02) 311-2700

AMUSEMENT PARKS

Delta Airlines (02) 754-1921

Everland Resort (031) 320-5000 • 310 Jeondae-ri, Pogok-eup, Cheoin-gu, Yongin-si, Gyeonggi-do

Emirates Airlines (02) 2022-8400

FAMILY & KIDS

Lotte World (02) 411-2000 0 • 240 Olympic-ro, Songpagu, Seoul

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS

Pororo Park (D-Cube city) 1661-6340 • 360-51 Sindorim-dong, Guro-gu, Seoul

Yongsan Intl. School (02) 797-5104 • San 10-213 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

Children’s Grand Park (zoo) (02) 450-9311 • 216 Neungdong-ro, Gwangjin-gu, Seoul

Seoul Intl. School 031-750-1200 • 388-14 Bokjeong-dong, Sujeong-gu, Seongnam, Gyeonggi-do

Seoul Zoo (02) 500-7338 • 159-1 Makgye-dong, Gwacheon-si, Gyeonggi-do

070-7504-8090

Oriental massage spa in Itaewon at a reasonable price.

3rd fl. 124-7 Itaewon 1-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul 12pm-9pm

BOOKSTORES

Animal hospitals

What The Book (02) 797-2342 • 176-2, Itaewon 1-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul • whatthebook.com Located in Itaewon, this English bookstore has new books, used books and children’s books.

Chunghwa animal hospital / Korea Animal Transport (02) 792-7602 • 21-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul www.cwhospital.com

Kim & Johnson 1566-0549 • B2 fl-1317-20 Seocho-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul

Woori pet hospital (02) 393-6675 • 299-1 Youngcheon-dong, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul

MUSEUM & GALLERIES

HEALTH DENTAL CLINICS

UPENNIVY dental (02) 797-7784 • 300-26 Ichon 1-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Mir Dental (053) 212-1000 • 149-132 Samdeok-dong 2-ga, Jung-gu, Daegu Esarang Dental Clinic (02) 701-2199 • 26-16 Singongdeok-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul Chungdam UPENN dental (02) 548-7316 • 131-20 Cheongdam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul SKIN CLINICS TengTeng skin (02) 337-4066 • 10th floor, First avenue Building, Nonhyeon 1-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul If you have a skin problem, Dr. Julius Jon will take good care of you. English is spoken. Nova Skin (02) 563-7997 • 2 floor A Tower, 822-1, Yeoksam 1-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul ORIENTAL MEDICINE Lee Moon Won Korean Medicine Clinic (02) 511-1079 • 3rd fl., Lee&You bldg., 69-5 Chungdam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Specializes in hair loss and scalp problems and offers comprehensive treatments and services including aesthetic and hair care products. Soseng Clinic (02) 2253-8051• 368-90 Sindang 3-dong, Jung-gu, Seoul Yaksan Obesity Clinic (02) 582-4246 • 1364-7, Seocho 2-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul www.dryaksan.com

National Museum of Korea (02) 2077-9000 • 168-6 Yongsandong 6-ga, Yongsan-gu, Seoul The NMK offers educational programs on Korean history and culture in English and Korean. National Palace Museum of Korea (02) 3701-7500 • 12 Hyoja-ro, Jongno-gu, Seoul This museum has a program called Experiencing Royal Culture designed for English teachers to help learn about Joseon royal culture. Seodaemun Museum of Natural History (02) 330-8899 • 141-52 Yeonhui-dong, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul Don’t know where to take your kids on weekends? This museum exhibits a snapshot of the world and animals. National Museum of Contemporary Art, Korea (02) 2188-6000 • 313 Gwangmyeong-ro, Gwacheon-si, Gyeonggi-do Leeum Samsung Museum of Art (02) 2014-6901• 747-18 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul 10:30 a.m.-6 p.m. Closed on Mondays, New Year’s Day, Lunar New Year and Chuseok holidays Kumho Museum (02) 720-5114 • 78 Sagan-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul 10 a.m.-6 p.m. Closed on Mondays Gallery Hyundai (02) 734-6111~3 • 22 Sagan-dong, Jongnogu, Seoul It’s the first specialized art gallery in Korea and accommodates contemporary arts. 10 a.m.-6 p.m. Closed on Mondays, New Year’s Day, Lunar New Year and Chuseok holidays

Plateau (02) 1577-7595 • 50 Taepyung-ro 2-ga, FITNESS Jung-gu, Seoul Reebok Crossfit Sentinel 10 a.m.-6 p. m. Closed on Mondays. (02) 790-0801 • reebokcrossfitsentinel.com National Museum of Modern and exxl fitness Contemporary Art, Seoul (MMCA SEOUL) Gangnam Finance Center, 737 Yeoksamdong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul (02) 3701-9500 • 30 Samcheong-ro, • www.exxl.co.kr Sogyeok-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul Body & Seoul 010-6397-2662 • www.seoulmartialarts.com Daegu Art Museum (053) 790-3000 • 374 Samdeok-dong, UROLOGY & OB Suseong-gu, Daegu Art space for local culture presenting Daegu’s Tower Urology contemporary fine arts and internationally (02) 2277-6699 • 5th fl. 119 Jongno 3-ga, renowned artists. Jongno-gu, Seoul

Restaurants AMERICAN & BRUNCH

JAPANESE

Jo’s Basket Grill & Dining (02) 744-0701 • 31-37 Dongsoong-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul

Jin Donburi (02) 2235 1123 • 103-9 Jeodong 1-ga, Junggu, Seoul The chef here trained in Japan and serves an authentic Japanese-style donburi (donkatsu over rice) at an affordable price. Katsudon goes for 6,000 won.

KOREAN & BBQ Small Happiness in the Garden (02) 975-3429 • 28-3 Jeodong 1-ga, Jung-gu, Seoul

DONKATSU

Jang Sa Rang (02) 546-9994 • 624-47 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul The menu at this traditional Korean restaurant ranges from classic kimchi pancakes and stone pot rice to an array of meats and veggies.

Dr. Oh’s King-size Donkatsu / O Baksane Donkatsu (02) 3673 5730 • 131-32 Seongbuk-dong, Seongbuk-gu, Seoul The place serves donkatsu the size of a car wheel. The restaurant dares you to finish it in one sitting.

Ondal (02) 450-4518 • 177 Walkerhill-ro, Gwangjin-gu, Seoul Looking to impress a date or a business partner? Head to the premier traditional Korean restaurant in Seoul.

Myeongdong Donkatsu (02) 776 5300 • 59-13 Myeong-dong 1-ga, Jung-gu, Seoul This is the most popular and oldest Japanese-style donkatsu restaurant in Myeong-dong. Try the wasabi.

Hadongkwan (02) 776-5656 • 10-4 Myungdong 1-ga, Jung-gu, Seoul This place simply has the best gomtang (beef soup) in Seoul.

Namsan Donkatsu (02) 777-7929 • 49-24 Namsandong 2-ga, Jung-gu, Seoul Since 1992, this casual Korean-style donkatsu restaurant has been a favorite of Namsan hikers and taxi drivers.

Two Plus (02) 515 5712 • B1 fl. 532-9 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Served here is a high-quality beef loin at a reasonable price. Tosokchon (Samgyetang) (02) 737 7444 • 85-1 Chebu-dong, Jongnogu, Seoul A popular Korean-style chicken soup with ginseng is popular at this place. Former presidents enjoyed this restaurant. A soup costs just 15,000 won.

INTERNATIONAL Battered Sole (02) 322-8101 • 52-23 Changcheon-dong, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul Battered Sole is a relative newcomer, but they serve up some of the best fish and chips in Korea. This is the real deal. Simply India (02) 744 6333• 1-79 Dongsung-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul

THAI & VIETNAMESE

VEGETARIAN

Pho Hoa (02) 792-8866 • 737-4, Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

Sanchon (02) 735 0312 • 14 Gwanghun-dong, Jongnogu, Seoul www.sanchon.com

ITALIAN & FRENCH Pizza Hill (02) 450-4699 • 177 Walkerhill-ro, Gwangjingu, Seoul The first restaurant to serve pizza in Korea. MEXICAN & TEX-MEX Dos Tacos (Gangnam) (02) 593-5904 • 104 Dessian Luv, 1303-35 Seocho-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul The best and largest taco franchise in Korea; try out their shrimp potato burrito. Grill5taco (02) 515-5549 • 519-13 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

Veggie Holic 070 4114 0458 • 204-59 Donggyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul www.veggieholic.co.kr March Rabbit (02) 3444-4514 • 560 Sinsa-dong, Gangnamgu, Seoul Daegu 5th Lounge (053) 764-3579 • 207-10 Doosan-dong, Suseong-gu, Daegu This fabulous lounge does just about everything right. If you’re in search of space for private parties, this is the place. G’day (American & Brunch) (053) 746-1217 • 980-9 Suseongdong 4-ga, Suseong-gu, Daegu This Aussie brunch cafe serves the best brunch in Daegu at the best price. www.facebook.com/CafeGday

Night clubS The Paris (Italian & French) (053) 763-8998 • 207-10 Doosan-dong, Suseong-gu, Daegu This place offers fine dining in one of the few authentic French restaurants in town. Dos Tacos (Mexican & Tex-Mex) (053) 255-4885 • 34-4 Dongsung-ro 2-ga, Jung-gu, Daegu Pan Asia (International) (053) 287-7940 • 2 fl., 21-9 Samdeok-dong, Jung-gu, Daegu South St. (American) (053) 471-7867 • 664-10 Bongdeok 3-dong, Nam-gu, Daegu Bagel Doctor (Café) (053) 421-6636 • Samdeokdong 2-ga, Jung-gu, Daegu Miyako (Japanese) (053) 761-5555 • 402-5 Sang-dong, Suseong-gu, Daegu Beyond Factory (Italian/café) (053) 255-7614 • 40-63 Daebong-dong, Jung-gu, Daegu Italy & Italy (Italian / French) (053) 423- 5122 • 22-2, Samdeok-dong 1-ga, Jung-gu, Daegu

La Luce (European) (053) 255-7614 • 40-63 Daebong-dong, Jung-gu, Daegu

The Pho (Vietnamese) (051) 256-8055 • Saeabusan town, Sinchangdong 1-ga, Jung-gu, Busan

Ariana Boccaccio Hotel Brau (Buffet) (051) 767-7913 • 200-1, Dusan-dong, Suseong-gu, Daegu

The Grill On The Beach (Pub) (051) 731-9799 • B1 fl. Sea star bldg., 1417-2 Jung 1-dong, Haeundae-gu, Busan This submarine-themed pub carries international beer and a wide selection of wine.

Thursday Party (Bar) 21-23 Samdeok-dong 1-ga, Jung-gu, Daegu Busan Wolfhound (Haeundae, Busan) (051) 746-7913 • 1359 Woo 1-dong, Haeundae-gu, Busan Rock N Roll (Bar) • 2 fl, 56-5, Daeyeon 3-dong, Nam-gu, Busan Wolfhound (Irish Pub) (051) 746-7913 • 2 fl, 1359, U 1-dong, Haeundae-gu, Busan Fuzzy Navel (Mexican Pub) (051) 754- 6349 • 178-13, Millak-dong, Suyeong-gu, Busan Farmer’s Hamburger (American) (051) 244-5706 • 35-1 Daechungdong 2-ga, Junggu, Busan

Paniere (Café) (051) 817-8212 • 225-1 Bujeon-dong, Jin-gu, Busan The European-style brunch restaurant/café serves fresh fruit juice and sandwiches.

DRINKS BEER AND COCKTAILS Big Rock (02) 539-6650 • B1 818-8, Yeoksam 1-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul This place imports premium beer from Alberta. Its comfortable atmosphere and huge space is perfect for just about every occasion. Once in a Blue Moon (02) 549. 5490 • 85-1 Chungdam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul A live jazz club Seoul that hosts renowned musicians from Korea and around the world.

Octagon •175-2 Nonhyeon-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Cocoon •364-26 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul Eden •Ritz Carlton 602 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnamgu, Seoul Elune •1408-5 Jung 1-dong, Haeundae-gu, Busan Mass •1306-8 Seocho 4-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul

Massage, Spa & Beauty Lucy Hair (02) 325-2225 • 2 floor, 30-10, Chandcheondong, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul Look your best effortlessly with the help of Lucy. Her internationally trained hair stylists treat your locks with the best hair products in a modern and cozy environment.

COMICS

Games

EASy

Crossword - Sudoku

Medium

Across 1. Them there 6. Offend 10. Lane of the Daily Planet 14. Driver’s invitation 15. Actor-songwriter Novello 16. Pale 17. Overturn 18. Phoenician port 19. Boxer Max 20. Mack of movies 22. African spear 24. Patty or William 26. Film producer?

27. __ Nevada 29. Fusion weapon 31. One __ time 32. Thrill ride cry 34. Curses 38. Here-there connector 39. Montgomery is its capital 41. Sneaky laugh sound 42. Caper 44. Sooty shaft 45. Uganda’s Amin 46. Reach in amount 48. Assumed name

51. Lower in rank 54. Adorn 56. Unfriendly quality 58. German for Germans 61. Singer Braxton 62. Pith helmet 64. Forbidden 65. This is one 66. Pass time idly 67. Lloyd Webber musical 68. Spandau’s last prisoner 69. Professor ‘iggins 70. Pilot’s affirmative

13. Aleppo’s land 21. Large fishing net 23. Pago Pago locale 25. 1958 movie chiller 27. Yemen’s capital 28. Lay __ the line 30. Suitor 33. Knife handle 35. Dreams 36. Movie star Lamarr 37. Wedge-shaped insert 39. Sharp 40. Union general in the Civil

War 43. Life’s strange turns 47. Get snug 49. It’s gender 50. Book size 51. Abandon 52. Parisian school 53. Without 55. Uplift spiritually 57. Shortly 59. Dove’s domicile 60. Frost 63. Norm

HArd

Down 1. So 2. Optimist’s asset 3. Kind of surgery 4. Wrongdoer 5. Evoke affection 6. Paws 7. Climbing plant 8. Ancient assemblies 9. Wall painting 10. Biopic about Richie Valens 11. Oklahoma Indian 12. “That’s not what __!”

Evil

Crossword Medium

HARD

EVIL

MAy AnswerS

Easy

Horoscopes June 2014

Aries

Libra

Think before you speak. Before you have to pry your foot out of your mouth, keep in mind who you’re talking to and what you’re talking about. A lesson learned too late could put you in a sticky situation this month. Romance brightens the weekends. Scorpio is involved.

An opportunity for advancement will seem to come out of nowhere. Before you decide to make a change, take a look at your long-term goals. Use your insight to better understand a friend’s behavior. You’ll see that everything is not as it seems on the surface. Family get-togethers highlight this month.

Taurus

Scorpio

Simple pleasures give you the greatest joy this month. Time spent with family puts you in the right frame of mind. News of a breakup may come suddenly but it won’t surprise you. Leo is involved. Change in the workplace means new opportunities for you. Watch your temper.

An unfair situation will be the topic of discussion this month. Don’t be afraid to voice your opinion or even offer a solution. You could make a difference. A restless mood could interfere with your productivity at work later in the month. You may as well give in and take a break.

Gemini

Sagittarius

Leo’s decision will have a positive impact on your month. A small — but significant — part of your life will become much easier. Virgo’s ideas provide food for thought. This month, canceled plans leave you with free time to do whatever you please. Enjoy! Good news comes.

Setting unrealistic goals will only lead to disappointment. Be fair to yourself by going for what’s reachable. A new friend could be the source of inspiration for a creative endeavor. Be patient with difficult family members — especially Aries. New romance looks promising.

Cancer

Capricorn

A difficult choice hits you like a ton of bricks this month. Whether you spend seconds or days deciding, you’ll come to the same conclusion if you follow your heart. A second meeting with Aries will change a bad first impression. Perhaps you misjudged the enigmatic Ram.

It’s time to step in and involve yourself with a problem at work. Take a stand and let others know your feelings. A strange dream early in the month may provide clues to something that’s been troubling you. Meditation helps you focus. Artistic endeavors run with success.

Leo

Aquarius

A strange coincidence early in the month will renew your belief in fate. Been feeling down in the dumps lately? It may be time for a change of scene. A weekend getaway should charge your batteries. Gemini keeps you on your toes toward the month’s end. Patience will be required.

An ongoing battle with a family member could be ironed out with some patience and understanding. Keep an open mind. If you’ve been putting off an important project, now’s the time to dive in. You may find that it’s not as hard as you thought it would be.

Virgo

Pisces

A sense of humor will come in handy early in the month. Your quick wit will be welcomed. Unexpected red tape will complicate a simple project. A romantic relationship needs some nurturing. Make the effort to do something special. Leo and Libra add fun to the month.

Creative thinking helps you figure out a way to streamline your workflow. Don’t be afraid to share your ideas with higher-ups. You may have to bid farewell to someone close to you. A bittersweet exit will put you in a melancholy mood. Positive thinking lifts your spirits.

March 20 - April 20

April 21 - May 21

May 22 - June 21

June 22 - July 22

July 23 - August 23

August 24 - September 23

September 24 - October 23

October 24 - November 22

November 23 - December 21

December 22 - January 19

January 20 - February 18

February 19 - March 19

COLUMN • YONSEI UNIversity dental hospital

How to have beautiful teeth without invasive preparation

nside a patient’s mouth, the upper anterior incisors and canines are sometimes referred to by dentists as the “social six,” a nod to the importance of aesthetics when it comes to these very visible anterior teeth. Regardless of how well they’re cared for, the alignment of anterior teeth gradually changes as a result of the aging process, and interdental space or protrusions occur with periodontal disease. Therefore, orthodontic treatment for anterior teeth is increasingly in demand for image-conscious adults.

Orthodontic treatment without invasive tooth preparation

For further information or reservations, call Ms. Kelly Soe, the English coordinator at Yonsei University Dental Hospital. +82 2 2228 8998 +82 2 363 0396 idc@yuhs.ac 50-1 Yonsei-ro, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul www.yuhs.or.kr/ en/hospitals/dent_ hospital/Conserv_ dentist/Intro

Most patients come to our dental clinic complaining of anterior crowding or protrusions. Rapid orthodontic treatment is one option that has been advertised widely in recent years, but this treatment option is often a highly invasive treatment known as a “dental laminate.” The method is totally different from conventional orthodontic treatment, as the intact tooth structure is removed through an intensive process called tooth preparation (the removal of unhealthy material before the procedure begins). It’s fast, but the damage done to your teeth is irreversible. In addition, the actual long-term prognosis for the function and aesthetics of the laminate are questionable when endodontic treatment is added from excessive tooth preparation. When handled properly, orthodontic treatment for aligning the anterior teeth is a noninvasive treatment, and this approach can be applied selectively to the anterior teeth when posterior occlusion is suitable.

Jung-Yul Cha, DDS, Ph.D. Associate Professor Department of Orthodontics Dental College, Yonsei University Seodaemun-gu, Yonsei-ro 50, Seoul, Korea

Variety of approaches possible for anterior aligning treatment For anterior teeth alignment, it is possible to target specific teeth using invisible treatments such as clear aligner or lingual orthodontic treatment. Both these approaches are suitable for adults without causing any social embarrassment from wearing a device. In recent years, many small orthodontic appliances have been introduced to improve occlusion while also helping reduce patients’ discomfort and treatment periods. One must keep in mind, however, that selective alignment is a limited treatment and assumes the patient has had a harmonious occlusion. Therefore, a more comprehensive treatment may also be chosen by orthodontic specialists for a patient who has a major occlusion problem, severe protrusion and rotation of the anterior teeth, which can help guarantee a longterm prognosis without the risk of relapse (reverting back to crowding).

Lifetime retention is recommended Once misalignment of the anterior teeth is resolved properly, patients want good retention for life. Fixed retainers can be applied into the lingual side of the anterior teeth to prevent dental relapse. This retainer is very thin and nearly invisible, but periodic checkups are essential to maintain retention over the years. A beautiful smile and beautiful teeth alignment can be achieved and maintained by persistent interest in oral health.

PROMOTIONS Edited by Sean Choi (sean@groovekorea.com)

InterContinental Seoul Coex

Craft Beer Fest Korea

InterContinental Seoul Coex is serving Mango Sparkling Shiraz Ice Flakes through the end of August. The seductive summer menu item was introduced in 2013 as extraordinary alcoholic ice flakes and the hotel has already received countless inquiries on its availability. The 2014 Mango Sparkling Shiraz Ice Flakes are an alluring combination of Langhorne Creek Bleasdale Sparkling Shiraz from South Australia and sweet apple mango ice. This year, the hotel had a wine tasting of over 30 bottles of sparkling wines to find the ultimate acidic taste of the sparkling wine stick, which is offered along with the ice flakes. Also, the optional red beans, served

On July 5, in accordance with the new reform on liquor tax laws, Media Paran is hosting Craft Beer Fest Korea. In a country where local beer brands focus more on simplicity than depth, and as customers began to seek out more varied flavors and tones, craft beer businesses have taken off at an exponential rate. The Korean craft beer market is expected to experience a pseudo-Renaissance period of immense growth and popularity. Craft Beer Fest Korea will be held at Dukeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s, located near the War Memorial Museum in Yongsan-gu, the center of the craft beer movement. The event will feature 24 locally crafted beers, with pizza and snacks to munch on. From stencil tattoos of the event logo to live bands, this will be an exciting outdoor event. Tickets will go on sale from May 26. Drink passes are only available to those aged 19 and older. For more information, visit facebook.com/craftbeerfestkorea.

Mango Sparkling Shiraz Ice Flakes

100 www.groovekorea.com / June 2014

free by guestsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; request, are all locally grown and carefully boiled several times to retain its original taste. Finnish Xylitol is also added to adjust the sweetness, while seasonal fruits are served separately. It is priced at 36,000 won (inclusive of VAT and SVC). Traditional fruit ice flakes suitable for all ages are also available with various seasonal fruits such as watermelon and melon topped with locally grown red beans. Ice flakes at the Lobby Lounge of InterContinental Seoul Coex are available from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. For more information, call InterContinental Seoul Coex Lobby Lounge at (02) 34308603.

Rising demand for craft beer all over Korea

Banyan Tree Club & Spa Seoul The Oasis opens

The Oasis outdoor swimming pool is designed to be a vacation destination in downtown Seoul, the perfect place to restore one’s energy in the summer. The entire space is finished with natural materials such as stone and wood, and the longer users stay, the more comfortable they feel. The Oasis features 23 cabanas equipped with small, individual pools, which reflect the experience of Banyan Tree’s overseas pool-villa resorts. These are also good places to host small parties with a lover or one’s family because each space is also equipped with a table for dining. Placed right next to the Oasis, the Oasis Restaurant offers a poolside BBQ buffet from May 16. The menu includes charcoal-grilled BBQ of beef, lamb, pork, chicken and seafood. You will also enjoy fresh salad, various appetizers, hot side dishes and desserts, all served buffet-style. The price is 95,000 won for adults and 65,000 won for kids, tax included. The Oasis Restaurant is open from 6 to 9:30 p.m. Reservations are required. For bookings, call (02)-2250-8080. For more information on Banyan Tree Club & Spa Seoul, visit www.banyantreeclub.com or call (02) 2250-8000.

Conrad Seoul Summer bingsu

Conrad Seoul has introduced five kinds of special bingsu (shaved ice flake desserts) for the summer. Served in the Zest buffet restaurant and Pasticceria Deli on the second floor, the hotel offers a soft, refreshing mango pana cotta bingsu as well as the classic milk patbingsu. The mango pana cotta bingsu delivers a refreshing burst of flavor through the combination of milk-based pana cotta and a generous helping of fresh mangos, topped with mango ice cream. The classic milk patbingsu, with a mellower flavor, is made with frozen milk and topped with red beans and vanilla ice cream. Both are priced at 18,000 won. Three additional bingsus — the fruity mango coconut bingsu, sweet chocolate berry bingsu and fresh green tea bingsu — are available at the 37 Grill & Bar restaurant on the 37th floor, each priced at 21,000 won, tax included. For more information, call Zest: (02) 6137-7100 Pasticceria: (02) 6137-7120 / 37 Grill & Bar: (02) 6137-7110

Club Med

Bali resor t opens new Zen Pool Premium all-inclusive resort Club Med Bali recently opened a new Zen Pool, a relaxation area only for adult guests. Club Med Bali in Nusa Dua, Bali, Indonesia, has been undergoing extensive renovations and is set to launch an assortment of brand-new facilities and services this year. The update is based on the concept of “Harmony” by accomplished French designer Marc Hertrich. The first of these recently launched renovations is the Zen Pool that is the perfect spot for guests to enjoy a truly zen experience. The pool also has its own bar, so guests can choose a comfortable spot of their choice to relax and contemplate while sipping on a drink to complete the zen experience. Club Med Bali is the perfect blend of modernity and Balinese culture. In 2014, the resort was listed among the Top 6 Hotels for Families in Indonesia based on favorable reviews and opinions of travelers from around the world. Those surveyed expressed their particular appreciation for the friendly G.O. (Gentil Organisateur) service, wide selection of activities and Children’s Club for all ages. For more information, visit www.clubmed.co.kr or call (02)-3452-0123.

PROMOTIONS Edited by Sean Choi (sean@groovekorea.com)

Novotel Ambassador Busan

Premium Single Malt Whisky The Glenlivet Promotion Novotel Ambassador Busan’s Le-Bouchon bar will be offering The Glenlivet promotion, named for the top-ranked whisky in the U.S. market. Single malt whisky is made using only one kind of grain and is gaining popularity because of its unique flavor and fragrance. With a history dating back 200 years, The Glenlivet is a world-renowned whisky produced in a famous Scottish distillery located at an altitude of 900 feet. Part of The Glenlivet’s impressive legacy is that it is made with mineral-laden water from the Josie Well near the distillery, and is completed using well-honed distillation skills and matures in solid oak casks. The Glenlivet 12Y, 15Y and 18Y are offered at a 25 percent discount until June 30. The price begins at 260,000 won, tax included. For more information, call (051) 743-1234.

Lotte Hotel Busan Stars’ signature special menu items

Park Hyatt Busan Summer delight package

Providing a breathtaking view of beautiful Haeundae and Gwangan Bridge, Park Hyatt Busan presents its Summer Delight package, which includes a discount of up to 20 percent on room accommodation for guests planning a trip to Busan this summer. The Summer Delight Package offers various benefits to spend a luxury break by the sea, available from June to August. The package has a booking period from May 1 to July 18 and should be reserved at least seven days prior to arrival. Guests will enjoy soft ice cream with this package, plus free Wi-Fi and free access to the indoor swimming pool and fitness center. The Summer Delight package is available from June 1 to Aug. 31, except between the peak season from July 29-Aug. 16, or on Saturdays and public holidays. This offer should be booked between May 1 and July 18, and at least seven days prior to arrival. For information and reservations, call (051) 990-1237.

102 www.groovekorea.com / June 2014

Five restaurants in Lotte Hotel Busan will serve their Star Menu until Dec. 31. For each party, a hand mirror or keychain featuring a picture of either Lee Min-ho or Big Bang — who are the ambassadors of the hotel — will be provided. Mugunghwa, a Korean restaurant, will be providing nine dishes, lobster being one of them. Dorim, a Chinese restaurant, offers eight dishes including lamb chops and foie gras. Momoyama, a Japanese restaurant, is serving nine dishes including sea bream sashimi. The price for three choices is 150,000 won, including tax. The Lounge provides the Star Afternoon Tea Set. The price is 49,000 won, which includes two keychains. Delica-Hans is offering a cookie set with one keychain and tea potset with one hand mirror. The packages are 20,000 won and 81,000 won each, respectively. For information, call Mugunghwa: (051) 810-6330 Dorim: (051) 810-6340 / Momoyama: (051) 810-6360 The Lounge: (051) 810-6430 / Delica-Hans: (051) 810-6490