Groove Korea May 2014

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OpportunityFreedom

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Entrepreneurship Maternity Healing A nation mourns

leave ogressStereotypes

Maternity Pay gaps Ambi Employmen Tradition leave

PotentialFeminism

Amid tragedy and loss, we look to heroes for comfort

nfucianism Employment

Equality Opportunity Homemaking Expression

Marriage Rights Vanity

Family

Violence

Rights

www.groovekorea.com

Entrepreneurship

Leadership Marriage Discrimination

Choice

Marriage Beauty Entrepreneurship Violenc

Violence

Balance Feminism Maternity Freedom Feminism Rights Risk ProgressleaveBalan Sacrifice Dream LeadershipAmbition ChoiceExpression AbortionPotential Discrimination Employment Freedom EqualityMaterni Pay gaps Risk

Feminism Homemaking KOREA • Issue 91 / May 2014

Discrimination

Healing leave Entrepreneu

Employment

adition

Progress

Rights

Confucianism

Entrepreneurship Dreams

Marriage

Maternity eaveBalance

Rights

DreamsGlass ceiling

Marriage Dreams

RiskTradi

Family

Image

Violence

Choice

Pay gapsVanity

Balance Feminism

Homemakin

Tradition

Healing Feminism The anity Sacrifice Feminism Children

Discrimination

Homemaking

Stereotypes

Choice

Maternity leave

Beauty Stereotypes

Equality

Choice Entrepreneurship

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Marriage

FeminismChildre

issue Freedom Individuality

Opportunity Dreams Balance Progress

Stereotypes

Dreams Feminism

Sexism

Confucianism Abortion Discrimination

Potential Sex Pay gapsRisk Entrepreneurship ress Confucianism

Opportun

Children

Judgment

Leadership

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Prejudice




EDITORIAL

To comment, email editor@groovekorea.com

This month, let us reflect on and celebrate our role models

The everyday hero Editorial

By Elaine Ramirez, Editorial Director

bloody head and helping him to escape. An online petition to the When Park Ji-young’s father died two years ago, she dropped out of school to support her family and went to work for Chong- government was circulating to give her, along with several other heroes of the Sewol tragedy, a Good Samaritan award. The award haejin Marine Co. in Incheon. Six months ago, she joined the crew would give her the honor of being buried in the National Cemetery of the Sewol passenger vessel. As the ferry sank on April 16, and even as her crewmates were escaping safely, she refused to leave. and would provide compensation to her family. During this national tragedy, it is impossible for us to separate Instead, she stayed to help distribute life jackets to passengers ourselves from the nation’s shared sorrow. We at Groove Korea in chest-deep water. Later that day, she was the first confirmed express our solidarity with the community of Ansan. There is little dead in what has become Korea’s worst maritime disaster in two we can do to ease the pain of the affected families and friends, but decades. we hope the anguish and blame does not linger and that they may As the effects of the Sewol tragedy continue to play out, Park has become a heroic figure for the Korean people, and rightly so. Per- find peace. Instead of dwelling on what could and should have been done in haps it was the 22-year-old’s youth that allowed her to act so selfthe aftermath of the disaster, we take this opportunity to celebrate lessly, or to somehow relate to the 325 second-year high school Park and the other heroes who risked their lives to save their fellow students on board. Or perhaps, on that ill-fated vessel, Park did what she knew was right because she simply saw no other choice. humans. We hope they will become role models for the people they saved, and for the rest of us as well. From their sacrifices we Once the trouble with the ship became obvious, passengers were should remember to act selflessly when others need us. Rather told to stay where they were. But survivors say that when Park saw than cowering in the fear that we could die any day, let us take the water rising as the ship continued to tilt, she urged passengers to make their way to the deck, where they could abandon ship. risks, live every day to the fullest and show appreciation to our They say she wasn’t wearing a life jacket but was distributing them, loved ones. There are many everyday heroes in our lives who deserve to be even as water inundated the cabins. She gave out life jackets until celebrated, and this month we give a nod to a few: our female the supply ran out, and then went down to another floor to get more. They asked why she wasn’t wearing a life jacket herself. friends, coworkers and mentors, our daughters, sisters, mothers and matriarchs, those who give up their own ambitions to raise a She reassured them she would be fine, and that she would leave family or make ends meet, those who forgo having children to purthe ship only after the passengers had escaped safely, as was her sue other dreams — money, travel, academia or entrepreneurship duty as part of the crew. The funeral home where her body laid for visitation the follow- — and those who attempt to do both. Our special women’s issue features the challenges they face in ing week was filled with flowers for Park, given by strangers, with pursuing their ambitions, and a few of their successes. We hope messages like “We will never forget your noble spirit” and “We that featuring these women who live as they choose will encourage will always remember your sacrifice.” One man came to pay his others, and that we all can find inspiration to do the same. respects, saying he was “indebted” to her for putting a towel to his

Hot on: www.groovekorea.com Food

Abandoned Korea

Once, when taking a friend to a local agu jjim (monk fish) restaurant, we were devastated to find that the red volcanic sludge in the pan was neutral in hotness — it turned out that the well-intentioned ajumma had gone to extra lengths to tone down the heat of this characteristically fiery dish for foreigners. On another occasion, some foreign friends were guests on a TV show sampling kimchi. Behind the scenes the producers had urged them to act as if it was unbearably spicy for their delicate taste buds. This act was met with peals of laughter from the audience, further confirming the mythical frailty of the waygookin palette. Some contend Korean food is the spiciest in the world, and it can certainly raise a grim smile on the red, sweaty face of a hot food aficionado. Groove Korea set out on a crusade in Seoul to test the hottest local foods we could find, enjoying the soothing flow of beer mixed with soju, and spurred on by the hope of identifying the single spiciest Korean dish.

Regularly the cinematic background when junkies shoot up or blonde babes get ax-murdered, abandoned buildings have a bad rep. And while many people would do their best to avoid the often graffiti-ridden spots that litter cities and towns around the world, others actively hunt them down, explore and document them. One such urban explorer is Korean-American Joseph Jung, a New York City native who has been living in Korea since 2011. Armed with his ultrawide-lens camera, Jung captures the innards of abandoned schools, institutions, amusement parks and other decaying or forgotten structures across the peninsula, and then shares the powerful images on his website, Abandoned Korea.

Groove Korea searches for the hottest dish in Korea

Story by Ian Henderson and Matt Crawford Read it online in May or in print in June

4

Music & Arts

The spicy food challenge

www.groovekorea.com / May 2014

Exploring the decaying remnants of cities past

Interview by Remy Raitt Read it online in May or in print in June


5








CONTENTS

What’s in this issue

ISSUE 91 MAY 2 0 1 4

32

WELCOME

Community

04 Editorial

This month, we celebrate role models and heroes.

18 Key people

Introducing some of the editors, writers and photographers behind May’s issue

32 A community comes together

42

110 ONE FOR THE SHARKS

54 THE BIG BUCKS IN BEAUTY

Beyond the anger and blame after tragedy, we must stand together to move forward.

A certified divemaster and underwater videographer promotes a cause that is — literally — very near to her heart: the finning of sharks in open water.

19

The inbox Opinions and feedback from readers

INSIGHT

36 To be a woman

20 Must reads

There are some values on this peninsula that are making equality difficult to attain; with this in mind, we set out to explore some uncomfortable truths.

A selection of our editors’ favorite articles

22

On the Cover

24

What’s on Festivals, concerts, happy hours, networking and events for every day of the month

30

the news Many ignore rules for food waste collection; Wicked stepmothers jailed, but not for very long; Plastic surgeons’ ethics questioned; Students protest move to boost part-time teachers

38 THE WOMEN OF GROOVE

It was tough to choose, but Groove dug through its archives to find the women who have inspired us most in recent years.

42

58 THE FIGHT FOR EQUALITY

Body image, corporate politics and Confucian attitudes about womanhood: There’s a light at the end of the tunnel, but is it blocked by a glass ceiling?

66 THE ART OF THE TEASE

Their bodies, themselves: Women using burlesque as expression and empowerment

68 THE CHOICE

Legal or not, women are making choices about abortions and finding doctors who support them.

THE WORKING WOMAN Women entering the workforce have inherited a significant gender pay gap, a hostile parental leave system and a president vowing change. It’s time to get to work.

74 Breaking the silence around abuse

48

80 ARTIST’S JOURNEY

QUALIFIED, TRAINED AND NOWHERE TO GO Is youth unemployment a Gen-Y thing or a chromosome thing?

50 ‘I AM THE MASTER’

A local entrepreneur takes on the big box stores with her bare hands.

74

The high cost of looking polished in the “Republic of Plastic Surgery”

52 Making things happen

Seoul Women’s International Association helps women lead in business

Greater awareness and open discussion are needed to combat a culture of blame.

Rydia Kim shows her true colors through Varyd, a clothing line with a mission.

82

Spiritual healing Female healers lead the way to selfimprovement and spiritual calm

84

FOREIGN CURRENCY, YOUR PASSPORT AND YOUR OPTIONS Bring your piggy bank — and your passport — if you’re sending big dollar amounts home.



CONTENTS

What’s in this issue

ISSUE 91 MAY 2 0 1 4

88

106 Music & Arts

Capturing Korea

BEEF AND FRIENDS If you’re looking for something fresh in the artisan burger scene, then, dude, Left Coast is your new hangout.

MARTYN THOMPSON Between curation gigs, multimedia projects and the launch of a professional artist network, it’s no wonder this guy’s having trouble getting sleep.

Tammy Chou gets off the beaten path, shooting the lesser-known Goseong County, Gangwon Province, on classic film.

90

102 Mime time!

FOOD

88

TOFU Groove’s crash course on tofu will have you embracing bean curd in no time.

98

The Chuncheon Mime Fest is a two-week rave with water fights, bonfires and, yes, mimes.

112 Slowing down in scenic Goseong

112

104 ‘SUNDAY GIRL’

Destinations

92

I’M IN THE MOOD FOR SHOPPING Forget Black Friday, it’s time to upgrade your spending palate to the Pearl of the Orient. Check out Groove’s how-to for haggling, Shanghai style.

96 IN SEARCH OF DAK GALBI

Whether you go for the bike ride or the countryside, a day trip to Chuncheon isn’t complete without the city’s signature dish.

92

A brave author confronts the issues of self-identity and shame after being shaken by the tales of Korean comfort women.

105 ROCK INTO SPRING

Thunderhorse, Rabbit Hole and Hungry Dog, oh my! The music venues for May’s HBC Fest promise a roaring good time.

106 CRYING NUT

The band that slays together stays together. Groove talks to the elder statesmen of Korean punk about SXSW, American crowds and the challenge of picking an English band name.

108 AT THE BOX OFFICE

Distractions

118

GROOVE LISTINGS Doctors, travel agencies, restaurants, hotels, airlines, nightclubs and more

122 COMICS

123 GAMES

“X-Men: Days of Future Past” (May 22) “Godzilla” (May 15)

124

109 DVD CORNER

126

“The Flu (감기)” “Killer Toon (더 웹툰)”

HOROSCOPES

PROMOTIONS A selection of deals around Korea


ESARANG

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We value and care for your Smile General Dentistry Prothodontist

Cosmetic Dentistry Veneers Implants

8 mins from Itaewon St.

Suhyup Bank

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Mon/Thu/Fri 9:30am ~ 6:30pm Tue 9:30am ~ 8:30pm Wed 2:00pm ~ 6:30pm Sat 9:30am ~ 2:00pm Sun 10am ~ 2:00pm

Address

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6

Email 7

ESARANG Esarang Dental Clinic DENTAL CLINIC

esarang28@daum.net

02.701.2199


16 www.groovekorea.com / May 2014


17


Credits - Contributors

KEY PE OPLE

Some of the editors, writers and photographers behind this month’s issue

KOREA 4th floor, Shinwoo Bldg. 5-7 Yongsan 3-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul, Korea.

Contact Info (010) 5348-0212 / (02) 6925-5057 For Advertising ads@groovekorea.com For General Inquiries info@groovekorea.com E D I TOR I A L Editorial Director Elaine Ramirez elaine@groovekorea.com Insight Editor Matthew Lamers mattlamers@groovekorea.com Community Editor Jenny Na jenny@groovekorea.com Music & Arts Editor Emilee Jennings emilee@groovekorea.com Food & Destinations Editor Shelley DeWees shelley@groovekorea.com Editor-at-large John M. Rodgers jmrseoul@gmail.com Copy Editors Jaime Stief, Daniel Deacon, Karie Schulenburg, Kevin Lee Selzer GrooveCast Host Chance Dorland chance@groovemedia.co.kr ART & D E S I G N Art Director Park Seong-eun sam@groovekorea.com Illustration Director Wilfred Lee wilfred@groovemedia.co.kr Design Adviser Prof. Kim Duck-mo M AR KE T I NG & A D M I NI S T R ATI O N CFO Steve Seung-Jin Lee steve.lee@groovekorea.com Marketing Executive Jay Park jpark@groovemedia.co.kr Manager Peter Chong yschong@groovekorea.com Accounting Choi Hye-won Web, I.T. Dan Himes danhimes@groovekorea.com W R I TE R S & PR O O F R E A D E R S

Alejandro Callirgos, Alexander Hall, Anita McKay, Anna Schlotjes, Anthony Levero, Beryl Sinclair, Christine Pickering, Christopher Green, Conor O’Reilly, Conrad Hughes, Daniel Deacon, Daniel Kang, Dave Hazzan, Dean Crawford, Deva Lee, Eileen Cahill, Elaine Knight, Felix Im, George Kalli, Hyunwoo Sun, Ian Henderson, Ian McClellan, Jamie Keener, Jean Poulot, Jenny Clemo, Jonathan Aichele, Justin Chapura, Ken Fibbe, Ken Hall, Leslie Finlay, Liam Mitchinson, Matt VanVolkenburg, Paul Sharkie, Rajnesh Sharma, Rebekah McNay, Remy Raitt, Ron Roman, Ryan Ritter, Sean Maylone, Shireen Tofig, Sophie Boladeras, Stephanie Anglemyer, Stephanie McDonald, Timothy Cushing, Walter Stucke, Wilfred Lee

P H OTOGR A P H E R S & I L L U S TRATO RS

Colin Dabbs, Craig Stuart, Dirk Schlottman, Don Sin, Dylan Goldby, Fergus Scott, James Kim, Jen Lee, Jon Linke, Jungeun Jang, Kevin Kilgore, Matt Treager, Merissa Quek, Michael Hurt, Michael Roy, Min Pang, Nicholas Stonehouse, Nina Sawyer, Pat Volz, Peter DeMarco, Rob Green, Sabrina Hill, Sacha Treager, Samantha Whittaker

Executive Director Craig White craig@groovekorea.com Publisher Sean Choi sean@groovekorea.com To contribute to Groove Korea, email submissions@groovekorea.com or the appropriate editor. To write a letter to the editor, email editor@groovekorea.com. To have Groove Korea delivered to your home or business, email subscribe@groovekorea.com. To promote your event, email events@groovekorea.com. To advertise, email ads@groovekorea.com. The articles are the sole property of GROOVE MEDIA CO. Ltd. No reproduction is permitted without the express written consent of GROOVE MEDIA CO. Ltd. The opinions expressed in the magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher.

© All rights reserved Groove Korea Magazine 2014

18 www.groovekorea.com / May 2014

Merissa Quek Singapore

Previously a finance lawyer, Merissa was inspired by what Steve Jobs said about having the courage to follow one’s heart and intuition, and decided to up sticks and move to Seoul. She has been a photographer at heart since she received her first SLR at the age of 15. Merissa recently won the First Shot category in the 2013 Travel Photography of the Year competition. Her current aim is to see Antarctica and the penguins.

Jamie Keener U.S.

Jamie is from Austin, Texas, a town where no one wants to grow up. Before moving to Korea to explore her Korean-American roots, she worked in professional theater and now has an MFA in creative writing. Now that Jamie is all grown-up, she’s a teacher, a writer and a world traveler.

Dave Hazzan Canada

Dave Hazzan eats, writes and drinks in Ilsan. He has been published in Groove, 10 Magazine, the Korea Times, Maximum Rocknroll, the Vancouver Sun, Terminal City and elsewhere. His second novel, “The Ash Pilgrimage,” will be released early next year. Check out his website at www.davehazzan.com.

Seong-eun Park South Korea

Seong-eun Park joined Groove Korea in August 2013 after graduating in visual design. She is in charge of editorial design. Her favorite issue is always the most recent one because she can see her design skills improving every month. When not designing, she likes watching American TV shows and jogging along the Han River. You might run into her there sometimes.

Sophie Boladeras New Zealand

Sophie was born and raised in the Land of the Long White Cloud also known as New Zealand. She studied journalism and media arts before heading overseas to float around, getting acquainted with a small slice of the world. She is currently freelancing and enjoying all of the delights that Korea has to offer.


THE I N B OX Groove readers’ opinions and feedback

Letter to the editor If I earned a dollar every time I heard someone say “it’s because you’re a girl/woman,” I’d have a sizable investment to put towards sending myself to the moon. Even my mom used that “reasoning” at times, which helped me realize that women are not the only victims of gender inequality. For the first time in my life, I put myself in my brother’s shoes. My brother and I are only one year apart in age, so we don’t get the usual “because you are the older/younger one” discrimination. Nevertheless, we are treated differently simply because he is a male and I am a female. While my parents expect my brother to be independent, strong (both physically and mentally) and unyielding, they expect me to be obedient, selfless and discreet. From what I have seen, Korean society imposes very similar stereotypical gender roles. Being a very stubborn, self-reliant person, I have refused to conform, and I am not the only one; many women are also pushing back from these expectations. According to a recent study by Imlyang Ryu (Seoul National University), the employment rate of women rose from 42.8 percent to 50 percent between 1980 and 2008, and there are more women dropping their careers/ jobs in their late 30s than their late 20s. This shows that women are increasingly postponing marriage in order to pursue a career. Evidently, women are gaining more power and reaching out for gender equality. Despite the prolonged fuss about gender equality, our steps toward equality focus excessively on women’s rights: What about the disadvantages of being male? A quick look at popular media can show us what the idealized version of “true men” are. In most Korean families, men are expected to support the family while still occasionally helping with household chores. Correspondingly, many Korean dramas characterize the male protagonist as nearly perfect, which in this case means being able to bring wealth to the family, complete household chores flawlessly and have enough leisure time to practice hobbies, maintain their health and spend a lot of time bonding with their children. In contrast to some of the TV shows featuring the “perfect male protagonist” is a parallel concept: female characters that are independent and bold, yet are always accompanied by a male protagonist who is there to protect her. The reflection of societal values seen in television, I argue, results in the unrealistically high expectations Koreans have for men, which were already pretty high to begin with. And yet these same women complain about not being treated equally. When people talk about gender inequality, they usually refer to the unfavorable status of women. But people fail to see that when they limit women’s rights by saying “because you are a female,” they are also setting standards for men. Gender equality means treating both genders equally. We need to consider and make an effort to understand the experiences of each gender. By Yuna Lee


MUST READS

A selection from our editors

M U ST RE ADs I’m in the mood for shopping

Beef and friends

Page 92

Page 88

My love affair with Shanghai started when I moved to Korea three years ago, and I have returned to it annually because it feels like a second home. Yet, even still, each visit reveals something new and enchanting. The city offers ever-changing cultural locations, arts, food and, most especially, fantastic shopping — what more could you want?

Last month I accompanied 11 of my closest friends on a trek up the stairs to Left Coast Artisan Burgers to see if the hype was worth it, and to see if they could handle our loud party of degenerates without any trouble. It was. They could. It was awesome.

The working woman

Martyn Thompson

Page 42

Page 98

“Companies don’t want women because (they think) they will quit,” says Rosie Park. At 24, she feels she has been stamped with an expiration date that, despite her hard work, will make it difficult for her to advance at the same rate as her male peers. Though the president is now speaking out in support of young women’s ascent up the corporate ladder, the road ahead is still full of social, cultural and familial obstacles.

Korea looks a little different through the eyes of English artist Martyn Thompson: The country’s animals are encased in glass cages and its people are naked and forced into submissive, uncomfortable positions. Since 2008, Thompson has created works that offer Korea a reflection of how he sees it — as peculiar and twisted a portrayal as that might be.

Crying Nut

One for the sharks

Page 106

Page 110

The five members of Crying Nut, Korea’s best-selling independent punk rock band, have been drinking, crying, fighting and, most prominently, making music together for 21 years. The band’s unprecedented popularity forged a path for the growth of punk music and culture in Korea. No one was producing a sound quite like theirs when the quintet screamed onto stages around Seoul and into people’s hearts.

She had always dreamed of swimming across the English Channel, but the bitter reality of adult life proved that this was but a childhood fancy; it’s way too cold. So instead, Gene (pronounced Jinay) Giraudeau will have to settle for a 43-kilometer stretch between two islands in Thailand, actually 7 kilometers wider than her British goal.

20 www.groovekorea.com / May 2014



COV E R The women’s issue In Korea, only 50 percent of women are employed, compared to 73.5 percent of men. On a global scale, the World Economic Reform placed Korea 108th out of 135 countries in its Global Gender Gap report. Women entering corporate careers are presented with a bitter smorgasbord of potential strikes against them: sexual harassment, pay gaps, discrimination during child-bearing years and the overlook of pro-family rights in many small businesses. The support of a woman president is helpful, but it may not be enough. Read the story on Page 36.

Cover photos contributed by Groove Korea readers Design by Park Seong-eun

O u r past th r ee iss u es

April 2014

March 2014

February 2014

The rise of the sandwich Fast-tracking in Tokyo At Pyongyang Restaurant, it’s not about the food

Expat superstars Monkeys and machetes Do your own brew

Korea’s black racist epidemic Threadbare on the Silk Road The artistic entrepreneur


COVER Deadline: July 20th


Wh at ’ s On SUN

For suggestions or comments, email events@groovekorea.com

MON

TUE

WED

q

Festivals

Theater

Music / Dance

Travel / Sports

Arts

Networking / Social

Exhibitions

Food / Drinks

6 Buddha’s Birthday

7

All That Skate 2014 @ Happy Ritz Kids Day @ Olympic Park Gymnastics Gymnasium; to The Ritz-Carlton Seoul; 6–9p; May 6; ticket.interpark.com (02) 3451-8233

4

5 Children’s Day

‘How I Feel Today’ @ Color of Money, Ilsan; to May 11; (031) 907-3579

Seopyeonje, the Musical @ Universal Art Center in Seoul; to May 11; ticket.interpark.com

Junior Party with Cartoon Network @ Conrad Seoul; 11:30a–3:30p; to May 5; (02) 6137-7516

Happy Hour @ Bull & Barrel, Itaewon; 5-7p; fb.com/BullnBarrelSeoul

John Mayer Live @ Jamsil Student Gymnasium; 7p; ticket.interpark.com

Nogal @ Space Moon, Mullae; 8p; facebook.com/spacemoonseoul

Children’s Day Event @ Grand Hilton Seoul; to May 5; (02) 2287-8270

Frankenstein, the Musical @ Chungmu Art Hall, Seoul; to May 18; ticket.interpark.com

Color and Pageantry in Seoul’s Temples on Buddha’s Birthday @ Sinyongsan Station; 1p; raskb.com

Vivaldi, The Four Seasons @ Seoul Arts Center; 8p; vincero.co.kr

11

12

13

14

Super Seoul Sunday women’s empowerment workshop & group coaching; May 11 & 25; tinyurl.com/ superseoul

Moonlight Tour @ Changdeokgung Palace; to Nov 8; ticket.interpark.com

Trace U, the Musical @ Uniplex Hall 2, Seoul; to Jun 29; ticket.interpark.com

beLAUNCH @ Dongdaemun Design Plaza; to May 15; 9a; belaunch.com

2 for 1 Fish and Chips @ The Wolfhound, Itaewon; wolfhoundpub.com

SIWA Newcomers’ Meeting @ M-Plaza Seoul, Global Cultural Center; 10:30a; siwapage.com

SIWA May Morning Coffee @ Conrad Seoul; 9:30a; siwapage.com

Icheon Ceramic Festival @ Seolbong Park, Icheon; to May 18; ceramic.or.kr

Full Moon Goddess Gathering @ Namsan; free; tinyurl.com/seoulmoon

Full House, the Musical @ Art Center Grand Theater, Hongik University; to Jun 8; ticket.interpark.com

Brian McKnight & K-Will Live @ Jamsil Indoor Stadium; 6p; ticket.interpark.com Reebok Spartan Race @ Vivaldi Park, Gangwon; 9a; ticket.interpark.com

20

21

Ophelia, the Musical @ ‘Appropriate’d’ Titles’ @ Sejong Center for the Performing Arts; to Gallery Golmok, Itaewon; to June 2; May 25; ticket.interpark.com fb.com/seoul.artscene

18

19 Coming-of-Age Day

Bonnie & Clyde, the Musical @ BBC Theater, Seoul; to Jun 29; ticket.interpark.com

Waterway on Paper: An Exhibition of Cheonggyecheon Maps @ Seoul Museum of History; to Jun 1; eng.museum.seoul.kr

Stitching Together @ Starbucks, Gangnam; 1:30p; meetup.com/stitch-twitchers

Mexican Mondays @ Rocky Mountain Tavern, Itaewon; every Mon; rockymountaintavern.com

SeoulFortress Walking/Hiking Tour @ Hansung University station; 10a; siwapage.com

Trivia Night @ Rocky Mountain Tavern, Itaewon; 6:30p; rockymountaintavern.com

Yangpyeong Strawberry Festival @ Boritgogae Village, Gyeonggi-do; to May 31; ypnadri.com

Taco Tuesday @ Southside Parlor; every Tues; facebook.com/SouthsideParlor

Wicked, the Musical @ Charlotte Theater; to May 31; ticket.interpark.com

25

26

27

28

Chuncheon International Mime Festival @ Festival Theater Momzit, downtown Chuncheon; to Jun 1; mimefestival.com/eng

Burger Monday @ Bull & Barrel, Itaewon; fb.com/BullnBarrelSeoul

M. Butterfly @ Daehakro Art One Theater 1, Seoul; to June 1; ticket.interpark.com

Paul McCartney Live @ Jamsil Sports Complex; 8p; ticket.interpark.com

Hike Ingwan-san, North West Seoul @ Dongnimmun Station; 10a – 2p; siwapage.com

LanguageCast @ Healing 616, Gangnam; 7p; meetup.com/Languagecast

Countryside in the City @ Gyeongbokgung station; 9:30a – 12p; siwapage.com

M + Ten Tour [M STEP] @ Olympic Park Olympic Hall; to May 25; ticket.interpark.com Sugar Come Again @ Jebidabang, Sangsu-dong; 8p

Wing Night @ Rocky Mountain Tavern, Itaewon; 4p to close; rockymountaintavern.com


*All the events published in this calendar are subject to unforeseen changes by the promoters. Groove Korea does not take responsibility for any misunderstandings or third-party damage.

THU

May

FRI

SAT

5

1 Labor Day

2

3

The Republic of Apartments @ Seoul Museum of History; to May 6; museum.seoul.kr

MAYDAY! @ Ruail Rock, Hongdae; 9:30p; fb.com/baekmaband

Anza Korea Ball: A Night at the Opera House @ Conrad Hotel, Yeouido; 6:30p; anzakorea.com

Damyang Bamboo Festival @ Juknokwon (Bamboo Garden) area, Damyang; to May 6; bamboofestival.co.kr

Liquid Times @ Seoul Museum of Art; to May 11; sema.seoul.go.kr

Beautiful Mint Life Festival @ Aram Nuri Arts Center, Goyang; to May 4; 12p; ticket.interpark.com

Jeonju International Film Festival @ The Street of Film, Sori Arts Center of Jeollabuk-do; to May 10; eng.jiff.or.kr

WhiteLies burlesque troupe performs on May 28 at Club Myoung Wol Gwan in Hongdae. See our story on Page 66

8 Parents’ Day

9

10

Bitnoriya in Yeosu @ Geobukseon Park, Yeosu; to May 11; yeosu.go.kr

Wine Buffet at Bar Rouge @ JW Marriott Hotel, Seoul; Tue to Sat 6p; jw-marriott.co.kr

Electric Run Korea @ Sangam Seoul World Cup Park; 4:30p; ticket.interpark.com

Lotus Lantern Festival @ Jogyesa and Richie Hawtin Asia Tour 2014 @ Bongeunsa Temples, Dongguk University Club Eden, Seoul; areas; to May 11; llf.or.kr dvrkcircle.com

Explosions In The Sky Live @ UNIQLO-AX Hall; lasrevinu.org/english/tickets-eng

Jazz in the City Vol. 5 @ Banyan Tree Club & Spa Seoul; 6:30p; www.banyantreeclub.com/web_eng

Seoul Hiking Group Guided Hike to Cheonwangbong Peak @ Jirisan National Park; to May 10; fb.com/groups/seoulhiking

Flora Live @ Studio Zemi, Mullae; fb.com/studiozemi

15 Teacher’s Day

16

17

‘Then and Now’ Art Exhibition @ Deoksugung Palace Museum; to Jul 27; mmca.go.kr

HBC May Festival @ Haebangchon and Gyeongnidan; to May 18; hbcfest.com

Painting: Pop Art Selfies @ Jankura Artspace, Itaewon; 2p; fb.com/seoul.artscene

‘Shirin Neshat’ Art Exhibition @ National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art, Seoul; to Jul 13; mmca.go.kr

A Piece on Mother and Fatherland @ LG Arts Center; to May 17; (02) 2005-1004

Life in Color – Seoul, South Korea – 2014 Tour @ Seoul Land; 8p; lifeincolor.com/SouthKorea

Mudeusalrong @ Jebidabang, Sangsu-dong; 9p

Desafio dos Mandingueiros 2014 @ Cordão de Ouro Seoul; to May 18; cdoseoul.com

Seoul Jazz Festival @ Olympic Park; to May 18; ticket.interpark.com

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PhotoSight Exhibition @ National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art; to June 29; moca.go.kr

Korean Bow Collection 2014 @ PDG Gallery, Gwangju; to June 7; facebook.com/martyn.thompson2

Three Historic Houses @ Seongbuk-dong, Seoul; 1 - 4:30p; raskb.com

Exploring Theology @ Seoul International Music Festival @ Museum of Shamanism, Seongbuk-gu; Seoul Arts Center and Kumho Art Hall, 10a; siwapage.com Seocho; to May 30; simf.info@gmail.com Stand-up Seoul presents Tom Rhodes @ Ladies Night @ Rocky Mountain Tavern; 10p; May 23-24; Rocky Mountain Tavern, Itaewon; standupseoul@gmail.com 6p; rockymountaintavern.com

Breakfast Specials @ The Upper Deck, Itaewon; every Sat; facebook.com/Upper.Deck.Seoul Sung Si-kyung Live @ Yonsei Culture & Art Center; to May 25; ticket.interpark.com

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New Japan Philharmonic @ Seoul Arts Center; 8p; vincero.co.kr

Trace U @ Uniplex Hall 2; to June 29; ticket.interpark.com

Rainbow Island Festival and Camping @ Nami Island, Chuncheon; to June 1; rainbowfestival.co.kr/2014

Harry big button @ Jebidabang, Sangsu-dong; 9p

Yeoju Geumsa Oriental Melon Festival @ Altar @ National Theater of Korea; to Geumsa Park, Yeoju-gun; to Jun 1; June 6; (02) 2280-4114 chamoi.kr

Wine Specials at Ladies Night @ Southside Parlor, Noksapyeong; every Thur; fb.com/SouthsideParlor

BBQ Special & Room Package @ Hotel Mercure Seoul Ambassador Gangnam Sodowe; to Jun 30; (02) 2050-6000

Srrsly Vol. 4 @ Venue, Itaewon; last Fri. every month 10p; fb.com/LazyAssGirls

Come see what the HBC Fest hype is about from May 16 to 18. See our story on Page 105

“X-Men: Days of Future Past” opens May 22. See our story on Page 108


Column by Dr. Lee Moon Won

not

Scalp disorder is an incurable disease Hair loss

There are some who say that when time takes out hair, it eventually replaces it with wisdom. But can’t we have both? I think it’s a wise man who cares about his hair and takes the time to treat it. While I can’t say that I’ve fully cured hair loss, I can say that I have already seen over 65–70 percent success rates, but the longer a patient waits to address their hair loss, the lower the likelihood that we can find an effective solution. That’s why it is very important to take care of your hair from a young age. To help prevent hair loss, first I recommend avoiding perms, dye and hair products, and also keeping the scalp clean. Second, chronic stress should also be avoided, and any instances of seborrheic dermatitis should be treated immediately. Third, healthy eating is important. Lack of vitamins, minerals, amino acids and omega-3 can lead to hair loss, which is why our meals should be balanced. I suggest eliminating fatty, fried and instant foods and including more vegetables, protein, beans and fish. If possible, take a nutritional supplement, as it can also help to prevent hair loss. If your hair has already started thinning, it means that you need to take action now. Like other diseases, hair loss requires treatment. By treating it at an early stage, hair loss is not only curable, but your hair can be made to grow back thicker.

Causes of hair loss

In the past, hair loss occurred far more frequently in males aged 40–50 years old. More recently, however, there have been an increasing number of younger patients between the ages of 20 and 30. In addition, significant hair loss is also becoming a problem for females of all ages. It can be attributed to many factors, including genetics, stress, hormone changes and certain drugs or medication. For women, dyeing, drying and perming may lead to hair loss, as well as an unbalanced diet due to a busy schedule. People with oily scalps are more prone to hair loss and, recently, the number of patients with oily scalps due to seborrheic dermatitis has been increasing. As previously mentioned, hair loss can be hereditary, but we can’t overlook the influence of many other factors. According to recent studies, as many as 30 percent of our patients are experiencing hair loss that is completely unrelated to genetics. This shows us how physical or psychological stress can affect your hair. But luckily, we are able to reverse the impact these factors have through hair loss treatment, and over the past 10 years, the percentage of cured patients has increased significantly.


Column by Dr. Lee Moon Won

Lee Moon Won Korean Medicine Clinic is known as a clinic that specializes in scalp and hair loss treatments. How long have you been working in this field? I started seeing patients with scalp and hair disorders in 2002. Then in May 2005, I changed the clinic’s name from the Oriental Medicine Clinic to the Lee Moon Won Korean Medicine Clinic, and I began to treat patients with scalp and hair disorders exclusively.

Lee Won Korean Medicine Clinic is said to be one of Korea’s bestknown scalp and hair loss treatment clinics. What are the advantages of the clinic?

Lee Moon Won Korean Medicine Clinic is not some kind of simple medical structure. I like to think that this is a place where patients or clients can get the results they have always dreamed of. We provide patients with thorough examinations to find the cause of hair loss and then treat them, as well as checking the condition of existing growing hairs and whether they are healthy or not. Due to a comprehensive range of diagnostic tests that we can offer in our clinic, I can speak with confidence about the reasons for hair loss and treatment methods to those patients who ask me “Why am I losing hair?” Moreover, we use medicine, which has no side effects, but has a superior therapeutic effect. In addition, there is a head spa center and hair lab in our clinic. It is a special place where clients with hair or scalp problems can use safe hair dye or perm treatments. If necessary, we offer bespoke wigs and hair transplantation services. Also, we offer a range of professional products for preventing hair loss that can be used at home. Over several years of extensive research and experiments, I’ve finally developed a measurement for hair age, and now we are in the process of obtaining a license. Hair age measurement is almost the same principle as when your doctor compares your body’s age with its biological age during physical examinations and determines whether they correspond. Hair also has an age, which we will be able to determine soon.

It is known that scalp disorder is an incurable disease. Can you really treat hair loss and scalp disorder? Maybe 15 years ago, there were a lot of comments regarding the incurability of hair loss and scalp disorders, but after continued studies in this field, medicine has progressed greatly. Studies have shown excellent results and now there are drugs that can treat such symptoms. As for myself, I have researched and developed organic herbal medicine that was published in seven scientific papers. Actually, I use organic herbal medicine for hair loss treatment and have seen a 65–70 percent success rate. In particular, organic herbal medicine is more effective for women; therefore, there are more women patients in our clinic than men. I can’t definitively say that the success rate is 100 percent, but it is still fairly high. Besides, we are not resting on our laurels when it comes to ongoing development in this area.

What are the therapeutic features of organic herbal medicine?

Organic herbal medicine does not contain chemical or hormonal components. The medicine is made of Korean herbal extracts and fermented plant extracts. First, we tested and analyzed approximately 60 varieties of herbs growing in Asia, including Korea, and selected plants, which were effective in the promotion of hair growth and inflammation treatment. We use components of these herbs as therapeutic agents in hair loss treatment. There are three therapeutic features of organic herbal medicine: Firstly, effective superior treatment is given, providing a long-lasting effect even in the post- treatment period. Secondly, there are no side effects, and the patient can use the medicine continuously without any harm to their health. Thirdly, there is an ability to promote not only hair growth, but to strengthen the body’s immune system as well. In particular, organic herbal medicine is more effective for women, therefore, there are more female patients in our clinic than men. Due to Organic Herbal Medicine, many patients resolved their problems. Among them, there are many foreigners as well.

How do you treat foreign patients?

We use various treatment methods and medicine. In particular, we use external and internal medicine. We provide foreign patients with thorough examinations and consultations to find the cause of hair loss and then the patient will be prescribed necessary medications. After the patient goes home, I get in touch via email, Skype and so on. Medicine can be shipped to the patient via international shipping. Nowadays, shipping service is available anywhere, so we don’t have problems with the delivery of medicine. As of now, we have shipped Korean Herbal Medicine to patients who live in 15 different countries around the world.


Comprehensive medical head spa treatment program The following spa treatment procedures stimulate, restore scalp lipid balance and slow down the hair bulb aging process, which is the one of the reasons of appearance of gray hair. After the SPA treatment procedure your hair will be silky, shiny and manageable, and will gain volume and vitality. Anti-stress Anti-Aging Medical Medical Head Spa Head Spa

Luxury Medical Head Spa

Aromatherapy Scaling (Scalp peeling procedure)

Dr. Lee Moon Won’s profile

Scalp therapy (RF scalp regeneration therapy)

Education Master’s and Ph.D. from Woosok University’s Oriental Medicine College

Hair therapy (OX-therapy)

experience Member of Amore Pacific Hair Care Team’s Advisory Board Woosok University, lecturer at the Department of Oriental Medicine Shungshin Women’s University, Ph.D. at the Department of Food and Nutrition Management Participated in conversation on the topic of “Herbal Encyclopedia and Oriental Medicine” on TBS radio

Nourishing and revitalizing mask packs based on organic ingredients Relaxing massage (shoulders, neck area) Acupuncture herbal injections Nutrient cocktail (BB food) Duration

2 hrs

3 hrs

3 hrs

Price

155 USD

264 USD

450 USD

* Luxury Medical Head Spa includes a special gift package from LMW Scalp tonic 70ml + LMW Immune-up shampoo 150ml

Present Korean Medical Institute of Dermatology & Aesthetics (KIDA), Scalp & Hair Loss Department Chairman Director of Lee Moon Won Korean Medicine Clinic Publications Hair loss treatment under the Name of Hope 11 papers related to hair loss treatment

Each medical head spa program includes • Diagnosis of scalp & hair • Consultation with Dr. Lee Moon Won • Medical Hair Lab service- It is a clever cut by a top hair stylist to emphasize your best features and create a feel- good hair style that suits you. 82-2-511-1079 (calling from overseas) (02) 511-1079 (calling in Korea)

Free Gift Coupon LMW Shampoo

Applicable scalp medical care and medical hair lab program • reservation only • valid until Dec. 31 2014 Please present it to the reception desk when you visit our clinic at the first place.

3F, Lee and Yoo Building, 69-5 Chungdam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul leemoonwon.international@gmail.com MON/TUE 10 a.m. - 7 p.m. WED/FRI 10 a.m. - 9 p.m. 9 a.m. - 5:30 p.m. SAT THU/SUN Closed


beLAUNCH to hold its third annual Tech & Entrepreneurship Event In Seoul, May 14-15

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orean tech media organization beSUCCESS (betech.asia) aims to discover why Korean start-ups fail overseas and is trying to remedy the situation by connecting Korean entrepreneurs to resources abroad that can catalyze their growth. As part of this grand mission, the organization has announced its third global start-up–orientated global conference to be held in the brand new Dongdaemun Design Plaza, Seoul, May 14–15. The conference, which will attract over 3,000 techies, entrepreneurs, investors and media outlets from around the APAC region and beyond, aims to tackle this issue headon. In addition to leading a thriving entrepreneurial community in Seoul and actively writing about Korean start-ups in both Korean and English, the organization holds beLAUNCH (belaunch.com), which has spearheaded Silicon Valley events such as TechCrunch Disrupt. The organizers are now planning their third annual event in Seoul, which will bring together some of the world’s top entrepreneurs and investors and provide an open forum on a range of current technology trends, while facilitating deal flow between Asia and the U.S. The event organizers have already confirmed a superstar line-up of speakers including Cameron and Tyler Winklevoss (Facebook co-founders), Joe Lonsdale (Formation 8), Sirgoo Lee (KakaoTalk), David Lee (SV Angel), Eric Migicovsky (Pebble Wearables) and many more. As a founding member of beSUCCESS who has worked with numerous start-ups and organizations trying to expedite their global success, beSUCCESS Global Director Nathan Millard believes Korean companies must find one remaining piece of the puzzle in order to find success beyond their domestic borders. “Quite simply, it is not enough to want to go global, they have to actually do it,” he said. “Korean entrepreneurs must be more aggressive in engaging with the outside world, and take the final step into the unknown in order to reap far bigger rewards. We aim to demonstrate, through proven examples and the advice of successful global entrepreneurs, that to achieve their potential Korean entrepreneurs must get out of their comfort zone and confront their fears. No more sitting on the fence, building products for Korea first. Instead, they need to build a global company from day one or continue accepting mediocrity.”

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Key Facts

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• Website: belaunch.com • Speakers: belaunch.com/speaker • Agenda: belaunch.com/agenda • Tickets & booths with 20% discount (code BL2014GoldenGate): Go to www.eventbrite.com/directory and search “beLAUNCH” • Theme: The Next Seven Years in Tech & Entrepreneurship • Dates: May 14-15, 2014 • Location: Dongdaemun Design Plaza, Seoul • Attendees: 3,000 (developers, entrepreneurs, tech, media, VCs) • Speakers: Eric Migicovsky (CEO of Pebble), Sonny VU (CEO MisFit), David Lee (Founder of SV Angel), Peter Vasterbacka (CMO of Rovio), Naval Ravikant, (CEO of AngelList), Joe Lonsdale (Founder, Formation 8), Tyler and Cameron Winklevoss (Founders, Winklevoss Capital), Ben Huh (CEO of Cheezburger), Mike CannonBrookes (CEO of Atlassian), Eric Alexander (VP of Flipboard), Sirgoo Lee (CEO of Kakao Corp.), Bom Kim (CEO of Coupang), Jay Eum (Managing Partner, Translink Capital), Soujanya Bhumkar (CEO Cool Iris), Eric Kim (MD of Maverick Capital), Yashuhiko Yurimoto (CEO of Global Brain Corp.) and many more... • Startup Booths: 80+ • Corporate Booths: 15-20 • Startup Battle: 20 startups showcasing • Other: VIP Party / Corporate introductions / After Party / Much More • YouTube: beLAUNCH2013, beLAUNCH_Palo_Alto_2013 • Key contact: Nathan Millard, Global Director (nathan@ besuccess.com)


All stories are culled with consent from Korea JoongAng Daily’s website and edited by Groove Korea for length and clarity. The opinions expressed here do not necessarily represent those of Groove Korea. — Ed.

N at i o na l

N e w s

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May 2014 / www.koreajoongangdaily.com

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Students protest move to boost part-time teachers

tudents at educational colleges nationwide boycotted classes and staged a rally in protest of the government’s move to expand the number of part-time teachers. A total of 5,900 university students participated in the demonstration, which took place across Seoul, Busan, Jeju, Gwangju and Sejong. The protest was spurred by the government’s decision to allow regular teachers, especially female educators, to work part-time starting in September if they want to spend more time raising their children. The Ministry of Education said last month that the measure is intended to reduce the burden on workers and enhance welfare for female teachers, many of whom juggle child-rearing and school work. The National Union of Education University, the association that represents universities, said that the system would increase the number of temporary part-time teachers. “If the government tries to hire new part-time teachers to fill vacant hours left by regular teachers, it will only result in more nonregular

workers,” the association said in a statement, ble working-hour system for one year, after calling the system a sneaky way to inflate the which it will decide whether to formally adopt it. “We will discuss the issue one year after employment rate. It went on to argue that the system would the test operation (begins). So we will examconsequently reduce the recruitment of new ine the results of the trial and discuss it again teachers. Other educators noted that the gov- from the beginning,” it said in a statement. ernment was seeking to create a “job sharing” “We were only on the way to introducing the new system and hadn’t decided on specific effect through the new policy. “If they introduce the flexible working-hour details yet,” said an Education Ministry represystem, they will see one job split into two sentative who wished to remain anonymous. positions for two people,” said Kim Jin-cheol, “More importantly, the flexible-hour system the director of policy division at the Korean has nothing to do with the policy on new recruits.” Teachers and Education Workers Association. The education authority stated that it will “And the government claimed that they would fulfill a 70 percent employment rate. I crack down on university students involved think that the new system is part of the gov- in the illegal protest or those who incite their ernment’s attempts to boost the employment peers to attend. Although the ministry stressed that partrate,” Kim said. Protesters also pointed out that students time teachers will be treated the same as will be negatively affected if some teachers regular teachers, educators who convert their come just two or three days a week. “The bur- full-time working hours into part-time will den will be passed on to the students if some actually see their salary cut, the association teachers only appear at work sporadically,” claimed. “The system will breed a new class of teachthe association said. In response to the protest, the Ministry of ers who are regular teachers on the surface Education said it will test-operate the flexi- but aren’t treated accordingly,” it added.

Plastic surgeons’ ethics questioned

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he association of plastic surgeons has called for soul-searching in the industry and stricter ethical standards for doctors following a case in which a 19-year-old woman lost brain function during an operation at Grand Plastic Surgery Clinic in southern Seoul. The woman’s parents said the clinic had performed the surgery without notifying them and put their daughter under general anesthesia despite the fact that rhinoplasty and double-eyelid procedures don’t typically require strong anesthetics. The 19-year-old is currently brain-dead. The Korean Association of Plastic Surgeons revealed the results of an internal investigation into whether other cosmetic clinics performed unethical operations. Lee Sang-mok, the president of the association who also led the probe, said that his team had discovered instances of ghost surgery among doctors, which is the practice of substituting one surgeon for another without the

30 www.groovekorea.com / May 2014

patient’s knowledge. The association also acknowledged that some doctors would administer patients with large doses of sleeping pills in order to conceal the fact that a different surgeon was performing the operation. The president attributed such cases to excessive competition in the industry and low moral standards among surgeons. “Plastic surgery requires a high level of ethics, as well as concentration and extensive medical knowledge,” Lee said. “But because cosmetic surgery has become so popular among many Koreans, surgery is now being considered a commodity that anyone can easily access. “This makes doctors look at their operations as a kind of product or commodity,” he added. The association said it ousted the president of Grand Plastic Surgery Clinic from its organization and had urged the police to initiate a full investigation into instances of malpractice at the clinic.

It said it will also define ghost surgery as illegal and file complaints should they find any other cases. The president outlined a set of rules in an effort to elevate the ethical standards of cosmetic surgeons and prohibit malpractice or unethical operations from taking place. The association will also work on reducing the number of plastic surgery advertisements in subway stations. Some subway stations in Seoul — most notably the Apgujeong and Gangnam stations — are notorious for featuring a host of ads promoting plastic surgery clinics with striking before-and-after pictures. The case involving the 19-year-old was brought to the public’s attention after her parents staged a rally near the Grand Plastic Surgery Clinic. The woman went under the knife in December shortly after taking her college entrance exam.


Wicked stepmothers jailed, but not for very long

T

wo stepmothers who beat their stepdaughters to death were convicted in Daegu and Ulsan and sentenced to jail time. But critics say their sentences were too lenient and won’t do enough to crack down on child abuse in Korea. In Daegu District Court, the trial of a 36-year-old stepmother, surnamed Lim, and her husband, surnamed Kim, has concluded. Lim was charged with beating her 8-year-old stepdaughter so hard at their home in Chilgok County, North Gyeongsang Province, that her intestine ruptured and she died. Lim also was charged with forcing the girl’s 12-year-old sister to say she was responsible for her sister’s injuries. Lim was sentenced to 10 years in prison for fatally beating her stepdaughter, and Kim was sentenced to three years in prison for the abuse of his daughter. But the sentences were much lighter than those requested by the prosecution: 20 years for Lim and seven years for Kim. The guideline by the Supreme Court’s Sentencing Commission for someone convicted of inflicting a fatal injury is a jail sentence of three to five years. If there are mitigating circumstances, the guideline is two to four years. If there is an aggravating factor, the prison term may increase up to seven years, and if there is more than one aggravating factor, the term can go up to 10 and a half years. In Lim’s case, her sentence was increased

to 10 years, the court said, because the victim was her own stepdaughter and she tried to conceal her crime by forcing her other stepdaughter to take the blame. When the judge read out the sentence, the sisters’ aunt, who raised them before they moved in with their father and stepmother in September 2012, cried, screamed and eventually fainted. She had to be carried out of the courtroom. “We expected the penalties would be heavier than the prosecutors’ demand, but the panel of judges seems to have followed the guideline of the Supreme Court,” Lee Myung-suk, president of the Korean Women Lawyers Association, said after the ruling. “The charge of subordination of perjury must be added in the appellate trial because the stepmother tried to conceal her wrongdoings by making the victim’s sister perjure herself.” In Ulsan District Court, the trial of another cruel stepmother, surnamed Park, has also concluded. The court sentenced her to 15 years in prison for beating her 8-year-old stepdaughter so hard that 16 of her 24 ribs were broken. Some of them pierced her lungs and she died. A 15-year sentence is longer than the Supreme Court guideline, but the court credited the extreme cruelty of the crime. Prosecutors had demanded a death sentence on a charge of murder, but the court convicted her of causing bodily injury resulting in death.

In legal terms, the panel of judges did not admit dolus eventualis, which means the defendant was aware of the consequences of his or her actions. According to a report by the National Child Protection Agency, 97 children died from abuse between 2001 and 2012, but experts say that number is an understatement. Medical institutions are not required to report all cases of children dying from physical abuse to the NCPA. At the end of last year, a special law on child abuse was passed by the National Assembly that should help authorities take child abuse more seriously. When the law is enforced, the police may take away children who are believed to have been abused from their parents. Moreover, if a child is being exposed to serious or repeated abuse, prosecutors must file a claim to strip the parents of their parental rights. “Officials must intervene more actively because initial responses are critical in child abuse cases,” said Kim Sang-yong, a professor at Chung-Ang University’s Law School. Meanwhile, the prosecutors of the cases in Daegu and Ulsan said they were not satisfied with the sentences, and will appeal them. “We accused (the suspect) of murder and don’t accept the judges’ verdict of bodily injury resulting in death,” said Lee Gi-seok, a prosecutor in the Ulsan District Prosecutors’ Office. “We will try to prove it as a murder case.”

Many ignore rules for food waste collection

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any ignore rules for food waste collection. Last September, Kim Si-jung, a 56-yearold resident of Myeonmok-dong, Seoul, held a stakeout in front of his house to determine who had been dumping food waste on his front porch. After three days of sitting and waiting in his car, he finally caught the culprit, which turned out to be his neighbor of 10 years. “He said he didn’t want to spend money buying regulation garbage bags to dispose of his food waste,” Kim said. “Now we aren’t as close as we used to be.” The revised “volume rate food waste collection system,” implemented by the Ministry of Environment, went into effect last June. The idea behind it is that people with more waste should be responsible for paying more, and special food-waste garbage bags must be purchased. But in an attempt to save 10,000 won ($9.61) to 20,000 won a month, many people have resorted to dumping their leftover food illegally in front of their neighbors’ houses. In Myeonmok-dong, around Kim’s residence, piles of blue and black garbage bags were filled to the brim near telephone poles or by

the walls of houses every 20 to 30 meters (65 to 98 feet). Even though they weren’t regulation garbage bags for food waste, they were still packed with moldy fruit and discarded fish or chicken bones. The flower garden near the community also stank and was full of trash. “We made the flower garden to stop people from illegally throwing away (their compost), but it didn’t work out at all,” said Son Tae-yeong, another one of Kim’s neighbors. “We recently asked the borough office to have CCTV cameras installed to prevent those crimes.” Banners and announcements all over town warn of a 1 million won penalty for illegally throwing away trash, but those threats have been to no avail. In the months since the disposal system began, the amount of daily food waste in Seoul has gone down from 3,311 tons in 2012, to 3,070 tons in 2013. However, illegal food disposal still remains a problem. According to the Seoul Metropolitan Government, approximately 14,000 people suspected of illegally dumping their refuse were apprehended last year out of a total of 48,000 cases in Seoul. They were fined 150 million won

total. Others have found more creative ways of throwing out their refuse, going so far as to stuff it down their toilets or sinks. Park, a 47-year-old resident in an apartment complex in Sadang-dong, Dongjak District, Seoul, complained to her building’s management after a stain appeared on her ceiling, followed by a severe stench. The odor reportedly resulted from her upstairs neighbor dumping food waste into the sink. People living in apartments typically follow a different food disposal policy, using collection boxes dedicated for food waste. Even though they don’t need to buy their own regulation garbage bags, each family must pay their part of the total disposal cost, which is equally divided by the number of the households. The drawback, however, is that no matter how much waste one household accumulates, everyone is charged the same. “Old couples like us don’t generate much food waste,” said a 73-year-old woman surnamed Kim, who lives with her husband in the apartment building. “It’s not fair for us to pay the same commission as other households.” 31


COMMUNITY Edited by Elaine Ramirez (Elaine@groovekorea.com)


A community comes together Families seek answers after Sewol ferry disaster Story by Kerry Harvey and Jongmin Lee Photos by Colin Dabbs, Michael Hurt and John Caulfield

A

NSAN, Gyeonggi Province ­— Kim Baek-gyu stood outside the school gates of Danwon High School in Ansan, Gyeonggi Province, waiting for a five-hour shuttle bus ride that would take him to Jindo, South Jeolla Province. He had been watching the news of the Sewol ferry disaster unfold for days before he realized his son was one of the passengers still missing. “My son is in the ferry. I’m waiting for the bus to Jindo to find out what is going on there,” he said. His teenage son Ji-kwang had been living with Kim’s ex-wife, and he had no idea the boy was even a student at Danwon, which 325 of the students on board the ill-fated vessel attended. “I only realized he went to Danwon after my ex-wife called to tell me our son is one of the missing,” he said, with tears welling in his eyes. Only 75 students were rescued after the Sewol passenger ferry en route to Jeju Island capsized on April 16 off the southwest coast near Jindo Island. Of the 476 passengers on board, just 174 people were rescued, including the 74 students and three of their 14 chaperone teachers. The students and teachers were on their way to a four-day junior class field trip. In the aftermath of the sinking — Korea’s worst maritime disaster since 1993 — relatives of the passengers descended on Jindo, where survivors and victims were taken. A local gymnasium was turned into makeshift accommodation for relatives who frantically checked survivors’ lists and waited to hear news of their loved ones. The usually tranquil fishing island became engulfed by anguished cries of parents, gripped with unimaginable grief after realizing that their children, who had set off from Incheon just hours earlier, were never coming home. At Danwon High School, friends and relatives of the missing students and members of the local community wiped away tears as they arrived to pay their respects. They solemnly left white flowers, tied yellow ribbons and wrote Postit notes with poignant messages to the dead and missing: “I don’t know you, but please come back.” “This world is so calm without you.” “Even if I did not meet you, I will remember you all.” “I hope you come back and feel this spring.”


COMMUNITY Edited by Elaine Ramirez (Elaine@groovekorea.com)

‘It’s been 100 hours since the boat sank. Even if there is a 1 percent chance that survivors can be found, we must keep searching.’ Local pastor in Ansan

An elderly lady nearby sat close to the school gates with a bewildered look. Like Kim, she was also waiting for the bus to Jindo, where she would join her daughter and son-in-law. “They received a message from the Coast Guard that their daughter may have been found. They (Coast Guard officials) asked them if she was wearing Adidas. They said, ‘Does she have a spot on her stomach?’ The Coast Guard doesn’t want the parents to see the bodies. They are trying to identify them to spare them more trauma,” she said. “They (my daughter and son-in-law) said the screaming inside the gym has stopped. It’s calmer. I want to be there.” Park Na-young sobbed as she laid a bouquet of flowers on the memorial that had been

34 www.groovekorea.com / May 2014

set up at the school. Her friend from elementary school was presumed dead. “Even though they hadn’t seen each other in a while, she wanted to be here,” explained her mother, who accompanied her. Each night after the Sewol sank, mourners gathered at a local park near the school to hold candlelight vigils. On Easter Sunday, around 2,000 mourners joined together in the darkness to remember the victims and pray for a miracle. At the gathering, during which members of the Christian and Buddhist faiths spoke, a pastor told the hushed crowd that the deacon of the local church could not be there because his son was one of the victims. “It’s been 100 hours since the boat sank. Even if there is a 1 percent chance that survivors can be found, we must keep searching,” he said. Another woman fought back tears as she explained that she had traveled to Jindo after hearing that her friend’s daughter had died. “It was so painful to watch my friend agonizing. At first my friend’s child was on the list of survivors, but this was misinformation,” she said. “After she found out she wasn’t on the list,

she collapsed. She had hope, but then all her hope was gone.” As of press time, the cause of the catastrophe remained unclear. Experts suggested that a sharp turn may have caused the boat, which was running late due to earlier fog, to shift off balance. The government has said that excessive cargo or renovations may have destabilized it. The search effort has involved more than 200 rescue boats, 35 aircraft, 13 fishing boats and more than 600 people, including navy and civilian divers. It has been hampered by bad weather and strong currents, and rescuers have told of how they have had to inch their way through the upturned boat’s decks, feeling for bodies with their hands due to poor visibility. Friends and relatives of the missing were at first hopeful that their loved ones could be found, but as the days passed, it became agonizingly clear that it was no longer a rescue operation. Relatives now say they simply want to retrieve the bodies of those who perished as quickly as possible. Many parents have ac-


‘The Coast Guard doesn’t want the parents to see the bodies. They are trying to identify them to spare them more trauma. They said the screaming inside the gym has stopped. It’s calmer. I want to be there.’ Grandmother

cused the government of failing to do more to rescue survivors, and have vowed to hold the government responsible if the cause of death for any of their children turns out to be hypothermia or asphyxiation, rather than drowning. In Jindo, the grim task of recovering bodies continues. Each victim has been taken to a small, tented village to be identified. Lessons at Danwon High School were resumed a week after the sinking, while pupils mourned the loss of their friends. The 75 students who survived the horror are still being treated at the hospital, many suffering from mental shock. It is not known when they will return to school. As funerals began to take place, the Gyeonggi Provincial Office of Education said it would build a temporary memorial altar for the fallen Danwon students and a makeshift site — a giant bank of flowers with white, yellow and green chrysanthemums and pictures of the deceased — had been set up at an indoor sports stadium near the school. It is not yet clear how the devastation will impact the Ansan community. Mark Dowdall, an ESL teacher who lives a short distance from the school, says the effects are palpable. “I don’t know anyone who had directly been affected by the tragedy, though it is clear that everyone in the area has been affected one way or another.” “At my elementary school, 2 kilometers away from Danwon High School, teachers have talked to me about not being able to sleep at night,” he said. “In my local gym people have been regularly taking breaks from their workouts to gather around the big TV screen and watch for updates on the rescue operation. Everywhere I go there is TV screen or radio and people have just been looking on feeling helpless and horrified.” But the tragic events had somehow seemed to galvanize the local community. “As an expat and teacher it is hard not to be moved by what has happened,” he said. “In fact, in some ways I feel a little closer to the community since the incident happened. In my gym, at work, in the taxi home from the supermarket, I have been talking to people who I never would have before, even if it has just been a quiet acknowledgement to the news on the TV/radio and a shared recognition of the disaster that has unfolded.”

The following events have been canceled or postponed in light of the Sewol ferry disaster: Canceled: Hampyeong Butterfly Festival in Hampyeong (initially slated for May 2) Canceled: 7th Together Day in Gwacheon (initially slated for May 20) Canceled: Ansan Valley Rock Festival 2014 in Ansan (initially slated for late July) Postponed: 2014 Street Arts Festival in Jeju (initially slated for April 24-Oct. 11) Postponed: 84th Chunhyang Festival in Namweon (initially slated for May 1-6) Postponed: Boseong Green Tea Festival in Boseong (initially slated for May 2-6) Postponed: Green Plugged Seoul 2014 in Nanji, Hangang Park (initially slated for May 3-4) Postponed: The 16th Jeonju Hanji Culture Festival in Jeonju (initially slated for May 3-6) Postponed: World DJ Festival in Yangpyeong (initially slated for May 4-6) Postponed: 2014 Everland Rose Festival in Yongin (initially slated for May 9-June 15) Postponed: 2014 Seoul International 10K Sprint Race (initially slated for May 11)

35


To

be a

woman On

a cold day in 2009, Sungshin University hosted an event they called “Happy Childbirth – Rich and Strong Future.” Designed to help young people understand the breadth of Korea’s critically low birthrate, and to grasp all the sticky issues therein, the conference was deemed a success until the organizers asked the female audience members for one simple promise: that they would eventually have children. This is much easier said than done. Even though childbearing embodies the biggest difference between men and women’s lives everywhere, in Korea, the disparities go beyond the limits of physiology. When the 2012 gender equality rankings surfaced from the World Economic Forum, disbelief rippled through the population: Korea was listed 108th, well beneath countries where female genital mutilation still occurs and others where death by childbirth is a significant risk. It is incontrovertible that a woman’s life in Korea is governed by a system of values unique to this peninsula, and that some of these are making equality difficult to attain; it is with this in mind that we chose to explore these uncomfortable truths. We hope women in Korea, no matter who they are or where they come from, will be given a louder voice for the challenging journey ahead, and that the lack of silence will lead to a compromise between men, women, work, family and everything in between.


The women of Groove

10 of Groove Korea’s favorite featured women, then and now Page 38

The working woman

Is Korea ready for women in the workplace? Page 42

Trained, qualified and nowhere to go

Young female graduates face deeprooted job-hunt discrimination Page 48

‘I am the master’

Entrepreneur defies odds to open up shop Page 50

Making things happen

Seoul International Women’s Association helps women lead in business Page 52

The big bucks in beauty

From cosmetics to eyelid surgery, vanity spurs Korea’s economy Page 54

The fight for equality

Women’s struggle to defy prejudice, stereotypes and tradition Page 58

The art of the tease

WhiteLies specializes in subversion Page 66

The choice

Legal or not, women are making choices about abortions and finding doctors who support them Page 68

Breaking the silence around abuse

Greater awareness and open discussion are needed to combat culture of blame Page 74

Artist’s Journey

Rydia Kim shows her true colors through Varyd, a clothing line with a mission. Page 80

Spiritual healing

Female healers lead the way to selfimprovement and transformation Page 82


INSIGHT Edited by Elaine Ramirez (elaine@groovekorea.com)

Story by Jongmin Lee

10 of Groove Korea’s favorite featured women, then and now

O

ver the years, Groove Korea has featured the stories of many women from different backgrounds. Some of them shared their success stories, others the painful life stories that made them strong and independent. Some of them were simply excited to talk about their club activities or sports

teams. From Jasmine Lee to Bronwyn Mullen, each of these women has exhibited something special that has hopefully inspired our readers. We’ve dug through our archives and chosen 10 of our favorite women to highlight what they shared with us back then and what they are up to now.

38 www.groovekorea.com / May 2014


1

Seoul Sisters November 2010

The mighty women of the Seoul Sisters Rugby Club made a name for themselves — and pulled in a significant amount of funding — by launching a calendar series. A nude one. When Groove Korea visited their photo shoot for the 2011 calendar, the club was teaming up with photographers Penelope Brook and Katrin Guete with a different approach from the previous year. “Compared to last year when it was completely nude, we used props and sometimes clothing this year,” club member Bridget Tunnicliffe said at the time. “I think the calendar is more sporty this time and has a fun feel to it.” Now they have three teams — Touch, Central and West End. Practices are held every Saturday at Jamwon Pitch in Apgujeong.

2

Eshe Yildiz May 2011

Easily the best-known professional belly dancer in Korea, Canadian Eshe Yildiz has returned to Groove’s pages several times for a reason: She is sexy, and she is an inspiration to entrepreneurs and dancers across Seoul and elsewhere in Asia. The Seoul resident received intensive training in Cairo and Istanbul, and her last name, meaning “star” in Turkish, was gifted by the famous Roman Turkish belly dancer Sema Yildiz. Now she teaches at her own Dream Dance Studio in Seoul and directs two performing troupes, Navah and Mahadevi. She told Groove Korea that her ultimate goal is to popularize belly dance as a rich cultural and moving artistic phenomenon. Recently, she performed at Shake Shop 13, a concert series presented by Korea Gig Guide and Dream Dance Studio, collaborating with local indie bands.

3

Mini Han November 2011

Mini Han has become the face of transgender beauty in Korea after being crowned winner of Miss International Queen 2010 at the world’s most prestigious and largest beauty pageant for transgender people. Held in Pattaya, Thailand, the objective of the pageant is to highlight awareness for transgender rights in the international community. As a fashion designer, she also won the award for Best National Costume at the competition. She is now working in Pattaya for Tiffany’s Show, one of the world’s most famous drag cabaret shows with more than 2,000 people enjoying the performances every night.

4

The Roller Derby girls January 2012

Korea’s first roller derby league was founded by four women in 2010. “It was real campy when it started,” O’Neill said of derby’s early days. “As time’s gone on it’s gotten more serious and now it’s really a sport.” The league’s first practice in April 2012 had only 12 members, but now they have local teams in Seoul and Busan. The skaters practice every weekend, alternating between Seoul and Daegu. For team member Monique Dean, a fun part about roller derby is “thinking of a name and alter ego.” On the track, the names they create allow them to express another side of their personalities. One of the sport’s more significant messages, however, is that a woman can be strong and assertive without losing her feminine identity.

39


INSIGHT Edited by Elaine Ramirez (elaine@groovekorea.com)

5

Krys Lee June 2012

Like many expats on the Korean Peninsula, writer Krys Lee tries to keep a balance between multiple identities in her professional and personal life. Lee is Korean, Korean-American and a writer who happens to portray Koreans and Korean-Americans. Born in Seoul, raised in the United States and educated in the U.S. and U.K., she returned to Seoul in her 20s. Lee’s stunning fiction debut, “Drifting House” (2012), depicts the lives of Korean immigrants to America in both contemporary times and immediately following the Korean War. In an interview with Groove Korea, she said her current obsessions are power, society and the many ways they intersect with class, gender, violence, loneliness and love, religion and the spiritual in general. Lee is a monthly columnist for Korea’s JoongAng Ilbo newspaper and the recipient of the 2014 Rome Prize Fellowship from the American Academy of Arts & Letters. She is currently working on a forthcoming novel about North Korean refugees.

6

Lilly Lee June 2012

Lilly is one of the many immigrant women who have come to Korea to start a new chapter. Her life story, however, is in no way common. Lilly left her native Myanmar in 1987 amid a deteriorating political situation with the 8888 Uprising against the military dictatorship. With the support of her father, she went to India to continue her studies. Then, after struggling through a stint in Malaysia, she left for Korea and met her soul mate, who is now her husband. She pursued her strong desire to go to school in the U.S. and graduated from nursing school in Orlando, Florida. Lilly’s aspirations now rest on hope for her country. She dreams of building a church in her father’s name, and also wants to go back to school to study counseling so she can help immigrant women like herself. Lilly has traveled over 56,000 km in her life, and her passion to journey further has yet to fade.

7

Jasmine Lee May 2013

Jasmine Lee was elected as a proportional representative in South Korea’s National Assembly in 2012. Born in the Philippines, she is the first naturalized Korean to become a lawmaker. In an interview with Groove Korea, she said demographic and economic trends make it inevitable for Korea to embrace multiculturalism. She is also secretary-general of Waterdrop, a charity supporting foreign spouses of Koreans. She has been particularly outspoken in her support for comfort women, who were sex slaves for the Japanese military during the Invasion. She told Groove Korea that supporting a bill to help comfort women was something that she is proud of. She truly embraces not only the rights of foreigners but the rights of women in Korea as well. Recently, she submitted a modified version of a bill regarding the prevention of domestic violence and the protection of victims.

40 www.groovekorea.com / May 2014


8

Sun Mee Chomet July 2013

Sun Mee Chomet is a Korean-born adoptee who grew up in Detroit in a very liberal family with a Jewish father and a Protestant mother. She was taught about feminism during her childhood and encouraged to go out and play football with her brothers. Eager to seek out her roots, she came to Korea to search for her birth mother in 2009. When Chomet was reunited with her birth family, she found herself trying to become the person they wanted her to be. Instead, she had to discover what being a Korean woman was for herself. She brought these experiences to the stage in a one-woman show, “How to Be a Korean Woman.” The show was a reflection of her search to redefine her identity. Back in Minneapolis, she has won two prestigious fellowships for her theater work, she is working on a play about her Jewish grandfather and plans to travel to North Korea next year for research toward a future project.

9

Bronwyn Mullen March 2014

South Africa native and multitalented Korean television personality Bronwyn Mullen first came to Korea in 2005 as an exchange student. She has been described as “the darling of Korea” and is popular for her role on the KBS series “Misuda,” a global talk show. Bronwyn confessed to Groove Korea that part of coming to Korea was to get away from her family. A childhood of abuse left her feeling insecure, miserable and depressed, and Korea was an escape that has become her home. She now has her pick of roles with Korea’s countless broadcasting stations, and has hosted health, travel, news and current affairs programs.

10

Anna Desmarais April 2014

The petite but powerful Anna Desmarais had never imagined herself fighting in competitions, but now she is a hard-bodied fighter and the founder of Body & Seoul martial arts gym in Itaewon. She admires the spirit of martial arts, mentioning that “the inner confidence, strength and sense of discipline you gain are incomparable to any other hobby I know.” Inspired, motivated and longing for a place to practice her hobby, she founded Body & Seoul in 2010, which has risen as the go-to expat fitness center where English teachers, diplomats, businesspeople and stay-athome moms all train together, building a strong bond to achieve a mutual goal. As Anna described, the place has become a center for expat life. Boosted by its ever-growing popularity, Body & Seoul opened a new gym in March.

41


INSIGHT Edited by Elaine Ramirez (elaine@groovekorea.com)

The

working woman Is Korea ready for women in the workplace? Story by Anita McKay Illustrations by Derrick Dent and Aaron Philby Additional reporting by Hyejin Park and Jongmin Lee

W

hen Rosie Park decided on a corporate career, she knew it would be tough — not because of the competitive nature of the industry, but because she is female. “Companies don’t want women because (they think) they will quit,” she says. At 24, she feels she has been stamped with an expiration date that, despite her hard work, will make it difficult for her to advance at the same rate as her male peers. “People think if girls come into the company at 24 or 26, two or three years later they will get married. Usually when women get married, they quit,” she explains. Korea’s corporate workforce is dominated by men. From entry level to executives, men far outnumber women in the majority of companies. Gender discrimination and a thick glass ceiling are expected to await women who enter the corporate world. When coupled with stories of sexual harassment in the office and long working hours, it all makes for an unfriendly working atmosphere for women. The government has started to take note, with President Park Geunhye committing to increasing female participation in the workforce. But even with her initiatives, the questions about marriage, conformity to gender stereotypes and the inevitability that motherhood will happen and be a career-breaker seem to plague the daily lives of young women who choose this career path. For Rosie Park, a planner at a small auto-parts trading company, a promotion seems out of reach if the current trend of advancement through her company continues. “Many girls have worked here for six years, but they are still at quite a low level. Usually it’s two years and you go up a level,” she says. If attitudes towards women in Korean companies don’t change, Park says she will look abroad for more career opportunities. “I’m not comfortable staying in Korea because of the stereotype for girls,” she says.

42 www.groovekorea.com / May 2014


Why women don’t work The Korean labor force is characterized by a lack of women. The latest employment figures from Statistics Korea show that while female participation in the labor force increased to just over 50 percent in March, it still lags far behind the 73.5 percent employment participation rate for men. Despite this slight growth, top companies are still failing to employ women. Earlier this year, market research firm CEOScore found that women made up only 16.6 percent of the workforce on average in the top 19 companies by sales in the country last year. This is just over a 2 percent increase compared to a decade ago. At the top level the statistics get worse. Women make up less than 2 percent of the 5,699 corporate officials of the 10 biggest companies. According to the data, roughly 1 out of every 1,430 female employees has reached a corporate management level compared to 1 out of 90 for men.

Only 50 percent of women are employed, compared to 73.5 percent for men. On a global scale, the World Economic Forum placed Korea 108th out of 135 countries in its Global Gender Gap report. On a global scale, Korea’s reputation for not being female-friendly was cast into the limelight last year after the World Economic Forum placed the country 111th out of 136 countries in its 2013 Global Gender Gap report. In 2011, the Korea Women’s Development Institute found that women accounted for less than 5 percent of corporate executives in companies with more than 1,000 employees, and in a 2012 report from the Organization for Economic Cooperation and Development, Korea had the biggest gender pay gap, 39 percent, among member countries in 2010 — narrowing the gap by 1 percent since 2000 when it also topped the list. Song Eun-jung, director of labor

policy at the Korean Women Workers Association, an NGO that advocates for women’s rights, says that women still face discrimination in the office even though there are laws in place to protect them. Last year, the organization saw a threefold increase in consultations concerning maternity leave, including women who said they were being pressured to quit their jobs due to pregnancy. Song says tactics such as verbal abuse or a heavier workload have been employed by some companies to relieve the burden of maternity pay. “For example, a superior said to a woman, ‘I don’t want to look at your tummy because it’s too fat,’ or they just dispatch the women to a harsh department. They say they cannot give maternity leave at all or ‘I will give just one month, and if you want to continue the break, just quit,’” Song says. Korean law states that a woman is entitled to up to 90 days of maternity leave, with the first 60 days paid. It is illegal for an employer to allocate any overtime work to a pregnant employee, and a light workload should be given at her request. The law also stipulates paid time off for health checks. Both parents of a child under age 6 are also eligible for child care leave, which allows for a yearlong break with the guarantee of the same job, or one that pays the same wage, after the 12-month break. Dismissal or unfavorable treatment of an employee upon request of child care leave is illegal. In a more woman-populated work environment, such as the education field, maternity leave works well. But Song maintains that a lack of maternity leave is more prevalent in small companies, which are usually male-dominated and where temporary replacements can be hard to find. Even though the law states this benefit is a requirement, Song says companies rarely receive any punishment, as it is a “matter of the government’s will.” “Technically, (small companies) don’t take it really seriously,” she says. “There are cases where one or two women want to file a lawsuit against the government about maternity leave or birth breaks, but it’s really hard to fight against the company or the government.”

43


INSIGHT Edited by Elaine Ramirez (elaine@groovekorea.com)

The gender pay gap On top of maternity leave and career breaks holding women back from climbing the corporate ladder, it seems education can do little to further their careers. Korea has the lowest level of female graduate employment across the OECD, and even with Koreans clocking up annual work hours that exceed those in most other countries, women still earn less than men. So why does Korea have the highest gender pay gap in all of the OECD even though there are laws in place to protect against it? “Because of giving birth and child-raising duties of women in their thirties, career disruption happens,” says Chae Myung-sook, deputy director of the Internal Cooperation Division at the Ministry of Gender Equality and Family. While an investigation conducted by the department found that 52 percent of women cited pregnancy as a disruption to their work life, the ministry is focusing on creating family-friendly work conditions that aim to harmonize the work and life balance through flexible hours and family support programs. The number of family-friendly certified companies doubled to more than 500 nationwide last year compared to the previous 12 months.

Last year, the Korean Women Workers Association saw a threefold increase in consultations concerning maternity leave, including women who said they were being pressured to quit their jobs due to pregnancy. Along with this, Chae says that the government has many ongoing programs to lure women back to the workplace after having a baby. “One is child care, and if working mothers want to use this service, they can be first priority so that we can prevent career disruption,” she says. On top of this, the Park administration has unleashed plans catered toward breaking the glass ceiling, including establishing an “Academy of Female Talent,” which will train women to become experts in their field and hold special career development programs aimed at smaller companies that lack professional training opportunities.

44 www.groovekorea.com / May 2014

While the government is focusing on im- explains. proving female participation in the labor force, Jung typically puts in a 50-hour workweek, some women still feel that their career will pla- but when it gets busy she is unable to say how teau once they start a family. Jung Hyo-jung, late she could end up working. Waking up at 6 a manager at an international company just a.m., she isn’t able to spend time with her son outside Seoul, has a 14-month-old son and before leaving the house, and due to the lack describes her work and life balance as having of day care facilities that fit her schedule, she two full-time jobs. In 10 years at her company, must hire a nanny to take care of him. “I start she has been promoted twice, but now fears work at 8 a.m. I don’t finish (work) at a regular her family duties will keep her from future ca- time, so there is no other choice,” she says. reer opportunities. Gender discrimination isn’t an issue that “Before I became pregnant, I quite often went Jung has faced within her office, but she has on business trips. Now longer-period business still tackled “unpleasant” circumstances. “I trips may not be acceptable anymore,” she was on the construction site and I had a male explains. “The company cannot use (me) as boss who told me, ‘You should work like a much as they want because I am going to be man, so I want to show you how men play selective.” after work.’ And he took me to a room salon. Even with the government working to in- I didn’t want to stay there, but he insisted that crease female employment, Song says its I stay because I needed to know. Sometimes policies are “not working well” because com- people were singing in the room salon and I panies still view men and women’s societal tried to match the mood. I sang a song and duties as different. “(Companies) think female drank something, but it was not very comfortworkers are not eligible for higher positions. It able,” she recalls. doesn’t make sense to them (to hire a woman) Such situations have only happened twice to because first they have to raise their kids,” she Jung, but both times she says she felt forced explains. to attend. “In those two times I didn’t want “We have a Confucian culture and a to go, but there was some situation and I male-dominated society from the Joseon Dy- couldn’t run away,” she says. nasty. Even if the government makes a policy The after-work socializing culture in Korean about protecting women or making it equal business is viewed as a way to bond with work between females and males, it’s kind of use- colleagues and seniors on a less formal basis. less.”” The alcohol-heavy social event called a hoesik (company dinner), can improve work relations and even affect job promotions. Recently, however, it has garnered attention for eliciting inappropriate behavior from superiors toward their employees. Earlier this year, it was reported that a man in Busan was charged with sexually harassing a female employee last Jung works in a company that employs year during a hoesik. But women say they around 7,000 people. Even though she thinks often feel that they can’t report such harasswomen are underrepresented in managerial ment, and accept it as a part of working life. A 2012 government report on sexual harasspositions, she admits that sometimes it’s easier to work with men. “If I work with female ment in public institutions found that out of the subordinates, I need to (consider) their emo- 7.7 percent of women who said they have tions and my words and attitude. Sometimes experienced some form of sexual harassment there are various things that I should point out at work, 92 percent admitted to dealing with to them (and) I need to pick kind words,” she the situation by just enduring it. A survey by the local job website Career from the same says. Jung does this because she sees a lack of year found that over 40 percent of the 405 rementorship available compared to when she spondents encountered sexual harassment in began her career. “When I was a junior, our the workplace, with female victims accounting company was not big like this. I had more re- for over 70 percent. The most common place sponsibilities than juniors (have now), which for it to occur was at a hoesik (44.5 percent), means I might have been taken care of more with a boss being the biggest perpetrator by my superiors. But now most of the compa- (78.7 percent). Ms. C, who did not want to be named, ny employees are newcomers and there are not enough superiors to mentor them,” she worked in three different companies in 2013.

‘Unpleasant’ circumstances


‘(Companies) think female workers are not eligible for higher positions. It doesn’t make sense to them (to hire a woman) because first they have to raise their kids.’ Song Eun-jung, director of labor policy, Korean Women Workers Association

She says she was pushed to quit twice due to severe bullying by seniors and work colleagues and was unfairly dismissed from another job after not complying with her boss’s advances. At one job, she says, her managerial duties extended to contacting call girls for foreign clients, sitting with them in bars until the girls arrived and even translating the conversation until her boss gave her permission to leave. When foreign clients visited her office to discuss a new contract, Ms. C was expected to pour drinks and translate for her male boss until he saw fit to change atmospheres. “To make a real nice mood, we had to go to ‘those’ bars.” She describes “those” bars as a hidden side of Korean corporate culture where women can be hired for entertainment. “(They) just made me pour the glasses and sometimes I had to translate the conversation as well,” she says. “My boss would secretly call me and say, ‘Now I think it’s OK, so you can go.’” “At the very beginning, I cried because I’m a woman and they’re guys. I was actually afraid,” she says. “What if they just started flirting with me, or what if they started attacking me?” Like many other women, she tried to deal with the situation by telling herself to “just suck it up.” On a separate occasion, her male boss sexually harassed her in a bar at an after-work gathering. In full view of her other colleagues, male and female, he kept insisting that they dance by holding her arms “tightly” and constantly trying to “grab” and “pull” her against him. She rejected his advances. Soon after the incident, she was dismissed from her job.

45


INSIGHT Edited by Elaine Ramirez (elaine@groovekorea.com)

Changes to corporate culture But Jung says that these kinds of incidents in the workplace have been dropping over the past few years as foreign business has more influence on office culture. “In my memory, the last five years were quite different,” she says. “That kind of push (to go out after work) from seniors is not going to happen anymore. Attending social dinners is mostly optional for employees. This is the big change in the culture as a result of doing business overseas..” Jung welcomes this change, but she doesn’t think everyone will be so willing to embrace it. “Older employees may not be happy. Sometimes they may want to do the old-fashioned party,” she says. With a large number of students studying abroad, Jung believes that managers will have to change their attitude to suit the shift in office culture. “Our company has hired more than 5,000 new employees who have just graduated from university. They are very young and a lot of them have studied overseas. So the older superiors need to change.” Lee, 29, a male worker at an international company for five years, says that an obvious generation gap has emerged — and it is forc-

46 www.groovekorea.com / May 2014

ing a new culture into Korean companies. He works with 20 women who are all at the bottom level; he has still not seen a woman in his company take a top position. “I think companies have a preference for guys, but it will change when the young generation becomes management level. I’m pretty sure we will have female management at the highest level or in an important position,” he says. One of the biggest changes, he says, is occurring in how employees view social work events. “These days a lot of young people refuse it because we don’t care,” he says. A male senior’s inappropriate comments toward a young female employee during a hoesik led to an investigation by the HR department and ended with the senior being demoted to a lower-level job. This, says Lee, is a “strict” approach compared to how it would have been handled not too long ago. There are other signs that the excessive drinking rooted in Korea’s business culture is starting to be reined in, with the country’s largest conglomerate leading the way. In 2012, Samsung introduced a policy known as “1-19” limiting the after-work staff dinner to one

‘I was on the construction site and I had a male boss who told me, “You should work like a man, so I want to show you how men play after work.” And he took me to a room salon. I didn’t want to stay there, but he insisted that I stay because I needed to know.’ Jung, an employee at a large company

type of alcohol, one venue and a 9 p.m. cutoff time for alcohol. The move is part of a campaign to promote a healthier work environment. Earlier that year, ashtrays were removed from company buildings, and the electronics giant is now encouraging social events to be held in a more active, alcohol-free environment.


Top-down efforts to change the tide Big businesses have recently been paving additionally free of discrimination and guaranthe way for more women in top positions, with tees basic working conditions. It also aims to women taking a slew of high-profile jobs in the create 250,000 female-friendly social service past few years. In 2012, five Korean banks jobs, reduce working hours and expand public announced appointments of female execu- and in-company child care services. Samsung Group and Lotte both responded tives, and Deutsche Bank Korea appointed its first female chief earlier this year. While this to Park’s call to get women back to work by is a promising trend, women are still under- offering flexible part-time positions with benrepresented in public institutions. In January efits included. In November last year, Sam2013, it was reported that women accounted sung announced that it would create 6,000 for 272 of the 2,993 directors at 288 public high-level part-time jobs with accommodating institutions, with only 16 of these agencies work hours. However, in February it was rebeing run by female executives. Early last year, ported that the conglomerate hired just over a group of lawmakers proposed a bill to imple- 1,000 women mainly in their 30s and 40s due ment a quota that would see women account to the underwhelming number of applicants. Several government departments have for 30 percent of board members of state-run corporations and public organizations in five come together to fulfill Park’s pledges, and years — emphasizing how difficult it is for 4.6 trillion won ($4.4 billion) has reportedly been allocated by the Ministry of Strategy and women to break the glass ceiling. This issue did not go unnoticed by President Finance this year for government projects rePark. In her presidential campaign in 2012, lated to supporting women in the workplace. Park pledged to increase employment by the New measures include replacing maternity end of her term. Then in June 2013, the Min- leave and paternity leave with a single pateristry of Employment announced its “Road Map nal leave, which will make it more attractive to Achieve a 70 Percent Employment Rate,” for men to take time off work. Women who which aims to create an average of 476,000 decide not to take leave can instead opt to jobs annually by 2017 and, in the process, work a shorter workweek for 60 percent of make the workplace more accessible to wom- their base salary for two years, an increase en. The road map aspires to encourage a work from 40 percent in the current system. However, Song from the KWWA sees these and life balance by creating decent part-time jobs that meet voluntary personal needs and is government plans as a way to fulfill targets

The new generation A new generation of women is now entering Korea’s workforce. While their perception of a woman’s role in a corporation has changed since their parents’ generation, the discrimination that awaits them hardly has. Park Heewon, a graduate student at Ewha Womans University, has already been warned by her family to prepare for gender discrimination when she enters the workforce. “My grandma still works in a company and every time I meet her, she’s like, ‘No matter how (great) of a degree you have, a master’s or a Ph.D., there’s this invisible ceiling and it’s difficult for you to go up (the corporate ladder), especially if you are planning to get married,’” she says. “One of the reasons I came to graduate school was I didn’t want to face discrimination when I get into a company.” Ahn He-rim, a graduate student in Seoul who acquired most of her education abroad, says that while she receives encouragement from her parents to do what she wants, gender stereotypes are reinforced. “I have a younger brother and Mom says to him, ‘You have to have economic stability.’ And I say to her, ‘I’m a girl, I can make money too, better than him.’ She says, ‘I know that, but in this Korean society that’s not acceptable, and I don’t want you

to face prejudice or discrimination because you tried to be different,’” she says. While Ahn believes things are beginning to get better for working women in terms of maternity leave, she feels that Korean society is hindering further progress because it is still a young country. “We had to go through a war and colonization and building up our economy. We had to do those things first and rights came after,” she says. “It’s taking us a little bit more time because we are trying to do it in such a short period.” For Park and Ahn, the inability to change the perception that a woman should quit her job to raise a family is further marred by a fear that society has placed on being different. Even with government efforts to make the corporate environment better for women, marriage still tops the list of reasons Korean women quit their job, according to a report released by the Federation of Korean Industries earlier this year. Park Sang-eun, an illustrator, feels that she has been labeled an “outsider” for not adhering to the Korean female stereotype. At 37 she is divorced, has no children and feels that women are being forced to choose between having a career or having a family.

The after-work socializing culture in Korean business is viewed as a way to bond with work colleagues and seniors on a less formal basis. Recently, however, it has garnered attention for eliciting inappropriate behavior from seniors toward their employees. But women often feel that they can’t report such harassment, and accept it as a part of working life. rather than to supply quality jobs. “The government has just limited (women’s) time and work ability,” she says. According to Song, government policy that reduces work hours is leaving fewer women with regular secure jobs and endorsing a patriarchal culture. “This opportunity by the government has limited a woman’s ability to work. They are focusing more on women raising their kids, not on their ability to work in society,” she says.

‘Don’t say to us, “You must be a homemaker or get married soon.” We just want to live our lives. Just let us live our lives.’ Park Sang-eun, illustrator

“My generation, we don’t think that we have to be a homemaker. We don’t think like that, but Korean companies and the government (think) if we have a job then we have to lose our children, or if we choose our children we have to lose our job,” she says. In the midst of all this negativity, she says she feels that a change is happening, but is not sure if Korea is ready to embrace it just yet. “Koreans know that society is changing a lot, but they are following the same old rules,” she says. She says she hopes for the day women are able to have more freedom to do what they want instead of following outdated traditions. “Don’t say to us, ‘You must be a homemaker or get married soon,’” she says. “We just want to live our lives. Just let us live our lives.”

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INSIGHT Edited by Elaine Ramirez (elaine@groovekorea.com)

Qualified, trained and nowhere to go Young female graduates face deep-rooted job-hunt discrimination Story by Hyejin Park / Photos by Colin Dabbs and Ali Safavi

J

eong Yoon-ji, 26, graduated from the prestigious Sookmyeong Women’s University last year and like many of her peers had dreams of working for one of Korea’s big companies. With a high GPA, a double major in French and economics, and a year and a half of internship experience in the U.S., she thought her chances were pretty good. But earlier this year, she was cut before the final round in her most recent attempt at securing a job. “I need to submit another application,” said Jeong, who has been unemployed for more than six months. “Instead of me, they hired a guy who is overall less qualified.” Jeong believes that gender plays a major part in why even competitive female job-seekers like her struggle to find jobs. In a survey of company recruitment managers conducted by Korean employment portal site Saramin, 72.2 percent said they prefer male candidates over female. In big companies, 86.7 percent prefer male workers when they choose new employees, while 70.9 percent of small and medium-sized companies say they prefer men to women. The discrimination is seen not only in major companies, but also in schools and private academies. “There aren’t many male teachers in Korean schools, so most school officials want to hire more male teachers,” said Nam Yoo-kyung, a temporary teacher at a high school in Daegu. Gender discrimination is seen even in teacher’s exams, especially for private schools, she says. While public school teachers must accrue a minimum score after three steps to pass the national teacher’s exam, private schools usually require an in-person interview on their teaching

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practices. In this process, says Nam, school board members prefer male candidates to female because of the absence of male teachers in the classroom, as the career is popular mostly among women. “If there is one male and one female candidate, the school is more likely to hire the man over the woman if their scores are not very different.” With Korea’s economy squeezed by global pressures and its workforce saturated by overqualified candidates, youth unemployment for both men and women has hovered above 8 percent since 2010, according to the Ministry of Labor. Even after years of studying to earn degrees from top universities, the highest-qualified graduates are still struggling to secure good jobs. More than 1 in 4 doctoral graduates from Seoul National University, regarded as one of Korea’s most prestigious universities, is unemployed, compared to 15 percent in 2009, a survey by the school revealed. Job-seeking women are faced with an extra challenge when employers factor in their potential long-term stay at the company — ­ and potential leave. Private companies are also wary of paying more or offering other benefits for women such as maternity leave and child care. According to Statistics Korea, 1 in 5 female workers quits her job due to marriage, pregnancy or childbirth. Making matters worse, the career disruption is most common among women in their 20s and 30s, the age of their highest working capacity. The length of time before women leave their jobs is also quite short — 41.5 percent leave after one to three years, 21.5 percent after three to five years, and 15.5 percent after less than one year. In other words, 3 out of 4 married women who go through career disruption lose their job

within five years. “I’ve seen many of my other friends, who are well qualified, fail to get into good companies, (even if) they prepared a lot. I have failed several times so far, too. One girl in my job preparation study group, who graduated from a top school and had perfect qualifications, failed when she applied for a big conglomerate,” said Jeong, the Sookmyeong Women’s University graduate. “But one girl who is quite attractive got a job as the secretary of a chairperson at a big company. She just graduated from a women’s college that is not regarded as a good school.” Jeong wants to join a large company for the many more benefits for women than at small companies, she added. “That is a big reason why many female job seekers, including me, want to find a job in governmental agencies or big corporations, which are fairly well known for taking care of their female workers’ welfare.” According to the Hankook Ilbo, steelmaking conglomerate POSCO won an award from the deputy prime minister for economic affairs for having the best company welfare program. Its welfare benefits have made it a top company for job seekers in Korea, especially among women. The company has many breastfeeding rooms and nurseries to care for working moms’ children during the day, and was even the first company to hire women who are married with children for its production lines, according to the article. “But the reality is that it is very hard to find companies like POSCO that offer consistently good welfare benefits. Except for the few well-known companies or public-sector jobs, most companies want to save money,” Jeong added. Nam, the temporary teacher, graduated


‘The reality is that it is very hard to find companies like POSCO that offer consistently good welfare benefits. Except for the few well-known companies or public-sector jobs, most companies want to save money.’ Jeong Yoon-ji, job-seeking Sookmyeong Women’s University graduate

from teacher’s college and hopes to secure a job as a public school teacher. She said she preferred working in a public school because of the stability that the job offers. According to the Kyunghyang Shinmun newspaper, female public school teachers and public servants almost never quit their jobs due to pregnancy, maternity leave or breaks for child care. “I don’t need to worry about using one or two years of maternity leave if I become a public school teacher. It is only public schools that can provide yearlong breaks without women having to worry about whether their belongings are packed when they come back to their desks. This is the most attractive advantage to teacher’s college graduates who spend years preparing to pass the teacher’s exam.” On top of the job-hunting struggles, many young women say they can’t even talk about their future jobs with their parents. Often, there is a high chance that there will be a disparity between their dreams for themselves and what their parents want them to be. Korean parents who have a conservative point of view toward their daughters tend to want them to find secure jobs like

‘I don’t need to worry about using one or two years of maternity leave if I become a public school teacher. It is only public schools that can provide year-long breaks without women having to worry about whether their belongings are packed when they come back to their desks.’

‘Every time I try to say something about what I’m going to do after getting my master’s degree, I’m afraid that my parents, especially my mom, won’t like my ideas and will make me follow their plan in the end. My mom wants me to continue studying and get a doctorate degree but I really don’t know about that.’

Nam Yoo-kyung, temporary teacher

Lee Kyung-min, biotechnology graduate student

teaching or public service because of traditional responsibilities such as child care, pregnancy and homemaking. However, the situation has been improving over time amid dynamic changes to Korea’s economy and cultural diversity since the 1980s. Lee Kyung-min, 26, a biotechnology graduate student at Seoul National University, said her parents’ expectations that she would have a prestigious job like her father, a doctor, influenced her career decisions. She tried interning at a big pharmaceutical company in 2012 but quit from the stress after working four months, which her parents were not happy about. “Every time I try to say something about what I’m going to do after getting my master’s degree, I’m afraid that my parents, especially my mom, won’t like my ideas and will make me follow their plan in the end. My mom wants me to continue studying and get a doctorate degree but I really don’t know about that. I’m still considering whether to do research for several more years to get a Ph.D., or to go into a company right after getting my master’s degree.” Oh Won-kyung, 26, a linguistics graduate student at Ewha Womans University,

said that she wanted to apply for a Ph.D. overseas, but her parents disapproved and wanted her to get a stable job like theirs after finishing grad school so that she could marry and settle down faster. She tussled with her parents about her career, but ultimately persuaded them and has been studying for the Graduate Record Examination so she can later apply for a Ph.D. in the U.S. “Sometimes I feel stuck when I talk with my parents and my family starts to discuss my future plans. But I really want to pursue my career and hopefully become a professor one day.” Oh added that the reason she wants to be a professor is to be regarded as one who has reached the top of her field of study and to develop her career as a scholar when she is older. “It is extremely hard for women to succeed at the same level as men in Korean society if they don’t have either a good family background or other external factors,” she said. “In the field of linguistics, however, after successfully earning my Ph.D. and becoming a professor, I am sure I will be able to be acknowledged as the best expert regardless of my gender.”

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INSIGHT Edited by Matthew Lamers (mattlamers@groovekorea.com)

‘I am the master’ Entrepreneur defies odds to set up shop Story and Photos by Christine Pickering

K

im Yang-hui self-consciously tucks a strand of hair behind her ear and looks at the smooth beige floor tiles. She’s sitting on a black leather sofa, a throwback to ‘60s décor, and eating a pseudo-baguette from a plastic bag in her store, Starlit. Kim is stylish in a floral-print mini-dress, colorful bracelets and earrings made of silver lion pendants. “I felt kind of limited over there, thinking about my age and position,” she says about her previous job as an ESL teacher at a hagwon. It’s amazing that an intelligent, ambitious woman in her late thirties, with eight years of experience, could feel limited professionally because of her age. But she insists there was no future for her. “There are wonjeong (hagwon owners) … that are younger than I am!” she claims. And although she could have later become a wonjeong herself, she laughs this off: “I love teaching, but I don’t wanna deal with all the crazy moms!”

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She plays with the red beads on her bracelet. “I wanted to have my own business at some point. I’ve always loved wearing accessories. … That’s how it started.” Things weren’t easy for the new store owner. Kim opened Starlit last year, during an abnormally cold Seoul winter. With regular subzero temperatures and every living creature either swaddled in layers of androgynous winter wear or embracing hibernation, Kim was trying to sell jewelry from a shop in an alleyway behind Hankuk University of Foreign Studies. While she would have preferred to open her shop in a more popular business district, she couldn’t afford the accompanying “rights fee,” a lump sum of money paid by the new tenant to the previous tenant, sometimes totaling 60 million won to 100 million won. The inhospitable weather and poor location weren’t her only problems. The contractor she hired to install electricity, paint the interior and tile the floor left partway through the job, leaving the work unfinished. And, apparently, this is not an uncommon occurrence, she


said. In Korea, contractors are paid in three installments — before, during and after the work is completed. Because of this system, some contractors leave partway through a job if they receive a higher-paying contract. Kim recalls the stress involved in finishing the work left over by this contractor. “Other companies or other workers don’t want to take over (a job) that’s not done completely because, in the end, they cannot really make money.” Eventually, she found two painters to finish the interior, but the remaining work was done by her husband and his friend.

‘I wanted to have my own business at some point. I’ve always loved wearing accessories. ... That’s how it started.’

Kim carefully examines the shelves — old book crates that have been sanded down, painted and stuck onto the walls — and adjusts a few necklaces. The concept for the store’s interior was hers, and she spends a lot of time reassessing the placement of the wall decorations — dried flowers, copies of famous European paintings — and the store’s merchandise. Despite the previous setbacks, she remains in good spirits. When asked about the best part of opening Starlit, Kim responds without hesitation: “The creativity and the control!” While she buys some of the accessories from Seoul’s largest wholesale market, Namdaemun, most are handmade by her and other artists. And having customers buy the items she has made or picked out is rewarding enough to make her past troubles worth it. Kim returns to the sofa. Only one customer has come in so far, but spent over $70. She picks up bright red wire cutters and her deft hands work expertly, adjusting the length of a necklace she is making. Kim is talking about the future of her store. Because Korea’s economy has grown so rapidly in the last few decades, the market is much more competitive. The advent of large, franchised department stores like E-Mart and Lotte Mart has resulted in many small business owners boarding up their doors. However, the new shop owner shows few signs of concern. “I think a small business can still survive. People are always looking for new stuff.” In her opinion, Starlit’s unique interior design, independent ownership and handmade goods are draws that will continue to bring her financial success. In addition, she claims that there is a growing interest in artisanal products because of their originality. The appeal of handmade artwork and jewelry lies in the fact that they can’t be found in the “big box” department stores.

More info j Visit Starlit Accessories at fb.com/star.starlit or call (010) 2556-6343.

Kim has finished fixing the necklace. She holds it up in the wan light of the store’s glowing ceiling bulbs and examines her work. She is aware of the challenges she faces: a less-than-ideal location, seasonal lulls in business, long working hours. But she never questions her decision to quit her job and start her own business. Why? She looks around proudly at the necklaces dangling from wall hooks, the purses set up neatly on aisle racks and the bracelets placed in vibrant porcelain dishes on wooden tables. “Because I’m the owner!” she proclaims. “I am the master of my own workplace!”

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INSIGHT Edited by Elaine Ramirez (elaine@groovekorea.com)

Making things happen Seoul International Women’s Association helps women lead in business Interview by Jaime Stief / Photo by Dukhwa

B

etween pay gaps (men earn 39 percent more than women, the widest disparity in the world) and low employment rates (50 percent of Korean women work), improving women’s career options in Korea is no easy mission. But a handful of groups are aiming to turn the tables by creating practical tools to help working women succeed. One such group is the Seoul International Women’s Association, which has been helping women make cross-cultural connections for the past 50 years, in part through tours and fundraising projects, but also through professional networking events. Their Coffee Mornings and Working Women’s Network have been met with resounding interest from both Korean and foreign women in the community. Terri Hartman, the president of SIWA, sat down with Groove Korea to discuss how workplaces and women are adapting for one another. Groove Korea: How has SIWA’s professional support for women changed over the years? Terri Hartman: SIWA itself has changed in the way it helps women in their professional adjustment to Korea. Through the increase in connectivity in recent years, many of our members are becoming more entrepreneurial and starting new business ventures over the Web. Some even arrange to telecommute with their employer from their home country while they are here. Through our Working Women’s Network, members meet monthly to network and to talk about issues important to them. Since our members are both foreign and Korean, the WWN provides a unique opportunity to share information and to help our members become aware of different opportunities in the Korean workplace.


What advice would you give foreign women seeking to enter a non-teaching workplace in Korea? Study Korean! It makes it easier to get the interview and once hired, to be included in the communications. What are your thoughts on the concept of an “Academy of Female Talent”? We see instances of gender segregation in elementary schools, high schools and some universities, but is this an effective strategy for grown women? I don’t think this type of academy is very effective, and it may continue to enforce a stereotype that women need to be “helped” more than men to succeed. What can be effective, however, is when women themselves form their own groups or networks to provide guidance, support and shared learning. How do you think mentorship helps young women in the workplace? Mentorship helps anyone in the workforce. Everyone could use a more senior person to be a sounding board and to provide guidance and advice. It is critical that as someone climbs the corporate ladder they share their experience and advice in a “pay it forward” fashion. Women mentoring younger women can be especially helpful in sharing insights and advice particular to gender issues. What do you think is more important right now: establishing workplaces that can accommodate women who are also primary caretakers for their children, or encouraging women to try and climb higher (“lean in,” as Sheryl Sandberg says)? Which do you think is more attainable? In the best of all worlds, the workplace would accommodate both men and women who want to climb higher and have family obligations. This model works in some countries, but these countries have much stronger government support for child care, maternity leave and time off. What has to change is the perception of what it takes to climb higher, which allows for a combination of an effective and productive employee who can also be effective outside of the workplace. Once this is accepted as the norm and rewarded with promotion and leadership, then I think the model is attainable for both men and women who want to have this kind of balance in their lives.

‘One of the big things that you definitely need if you are even thinking of opening your own business is to love risks, the instability, the unknown. You need to be one of those people who can thrive on uncertainty.’ — Rydia Kim

Do you think the younger and older generations in Korea are vastly different in their perceptions of the gender divide? Do you see big changes coming soon? I think big changes are coming soon, mostly because they have to. The birthrate in Korea is so low, among the lowest of any of the OECD nations. In order for the Korean economy to continue to grow, more women will have to stay in the workforce. The government and private employers will have to do more to make the workplace more hospitable to both men and women who want to combine a career with family obligations.

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INSIGHT Edited by Elaine Ramirez (elaine@groovekorea.com)

The big bucks

in beauty From cosmetics to eyelid surgery, vanity spurs Korea’s economy Story by Remy Raitt / Illustrations by Jungeun Jang

The more you spend in Korea, the more beautiful that five of the six countries ranked ahead of South you will be,” says Kim Hye-ra, a 28-year-old office Korea (U.S., Brazil, China, Japan and Mexico) all have worker from Seoul, as she peers at her perfectly populations well above 100 million people, as commanicured nails. “I haven’t had surgery, but that’s pared to the ROK’s 50 million; the number of surgeons just because I haven’t had the money to do it yet. I and plastic surgeries per capita here actually places it guess I should save, but I’m always spending my money at the top of the list. According to Korea’s Fair Trade Commission, there are 1,767 surgeons in the counon my hair and nails and makeup.” Kim says she’s been keeping up with Korean beauty try with upwards of 4,000 registered and unregistered ideals since she was a teenager. She visits the nail sa- clinics performing aesthetic procedures. “Just look at lon every week to get a manicure, gel color and nail art, Gangnam,” says Kim. “It’s like a plastic surgery departand has her hair colored or restyled bimonthly, though ment store — anything you want to change about yourdeclined to disclose her spending. “I do it to keep up self, you can change there.” And business is booming. The Fair Trade Commission with my friends and coworkers. … I don’t want to be reported that plastic surgery brings in 500 billion won the ugly duck. No one does.” It’s no secret that beauty is big business in the country ($473.9 million) a year, and one-quarter of the world’s nicknamed “The Republic of Plastic Surgery.” Accord- plastic surgeries take place in Korea. The country’s ing to the Korean Association for Plastic Surgery, 1 in obsession with beauty is a huge driving force for the every 77 people in South Korea has had plastic surgery. economy, and the figures continue to rise. But women in Korea aren’t just digging deep to go “I got double-eyelid surgery last year as a gift from my parents,” says Choi Min-seo, an economics student at under the knife. They are also shelling out for non-invaSeoul National University. “I did it because I want to sive procedures: cosmetics, makeup and regular beauty be more attractive, but also because if you are more treatments. Kang Chan-koo, a research fellow at the Samsung beautiful in Korea, life is easier for you.” In the country’s intensely competitive job market, she explains, the Economic Research Institute, reported that the Korean better looking you are, the better you fare in finding cosmetics market grew to 8.9 trillion won in 2011, from employment. “Beautiful people will always be chosen 5.6 trillion won in 2006. That’s an annual increase of first. My parents understand this, and they also think it 10.4 percent, which he says easily outstrips the annual average retail sales growth of 6.1 percent in the same will help me find a good husband,” she adds shyly. Korea was ranked seventh in the International Soci- period. But research shows that Korean women arety of Aesthetic Plastic Surgeons’ global survey on the en’t blowing their budget on imported beauty products, number of cosmetic procedures performed in 2011. It which are sold at upwards of 6.5 percent higher than also comes in at seventh place in the global rankings of their duty-added import prices; instead, the fastidious the number of plastic surgeons by country. When look- consumers are keeping things local. ing at both of these statistics, it’s worth noting, however, “The Korean cosmetics market has been growing at

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‘The Korean cosmetics market has been growing at a rate of more than 10 percent a year, even amid the global recession since 2008. The main reason is mushrooming budget cosmetics shops, which have increased 37 percent a year on average.’ — Korean Health Industry Development Institute

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INSIGHT Edited by Elaine Ramirez (elaine@groovekorea.com)

‘No matter what the price is, people will find the money to be beautiful. I sometimes think I would rather live somewhere bad or not buy a car and instead have surgery because I know it will make my life better in the end.’ — Kim Hye-ra, office worker

a rate of more than 10 percent a year, even amid the global recession since 2008,” the Korean Health Industry Development Institute reported. “The main reason is mushrooming budget cosmetics shops, which have increased 37 percent a year on average.” These shops account for one-third of Korea’s total cosmetics market, which was worth 2.5 trillion won in 2010. According to research carried out by Cos’In, a website dedicated to cosmetics insight in Korea, women are now spending less money on more products at these types of stores. “Korea has beauty shops everywhere,” says Kim, an office worker. “They always have new products and I want to try them all out. When things are cheap, it’s easy to buy a lot, and if it’s not so good, it’s okay because it wasn’t too expensive.” A steady growth of sales at single-brand beauty shops saw people spending 7,500 won per item in 2011, 7,900 won in 2012 and 8,000 won in 2013. Meanwhile, in 2011, customers would buy a single product on average 4.2 times a year, 4.4 times in 2012 and 4.8 in 2013. And the top-selling products at these stores are skin care products and what are coined “fast beauty items” such as BB (blemish balm) creams and CC (color control) creams. The skin care segment has been a particularly strong key growth contributor in the Korean beauty market, says Kang of SERI, with consumers gravitating away from glamour makeup. “They are more youth- and health-conscious. Skin care accounts for 48 percent of Korea’s total cosmetics market and is growing much faster than other segments like makeup and perfumes.” “If you have beautiful skin, it’s easy to be attractive because makeup can’t hide everything,” says Choi, the SNU student. “There are excellent creams and cleansers here, plus there are many small procedures like face peels and injection fillers that give a good natural beauty look.” She says she has friends in their twenties who have had filler injections to manipulate their face shape and improve the luminosity of their skin. Known as “petite surgeries,” these procedures are

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rapidly gaining popularity as plastic surgery’s less invasive alternative in Korea, which ranks seventh in ISAPS’ global rankings of every nonsurgical procedure on the list. Botulinum toxin type A injectables (Botox) and hyaluronis acid fillers were the two most performed nonsurgical procedures in the world in 2010, making up 38.1 percent and 23.2 percent of all procedures, respectively, according to ISAPS. Botox likewise tops cosmetic procedures performed in Korea, with 145,688 administered in 2011, followed by hyaluronic acid fillers, autologous fat fillers and calcium hydroxyapatite, respectively. Dr. Shin Yong-ho, a director of BK Plastic Surgery in Seoul who has been in practice for 16 years, says he has noticed a craze for “down-aging” in Korea that finds the noninvasive nature of petite surgery a popular choice. “It can be carried out regardless of time. It is good for downtown workers,” he explains. “Even a busy office worker can receive this simple procedure during lunchtime and get back to work quickly. It is possible because the procedures do not require (a) complicated anesthetic process and only need topical anesthetic cream to numb the area.” Although much cheaper than full-on surgery, as of this year, a 10 percent value-added tax will be tacked onto these noninvasive procedures and other treatments such as body hair removal, skin care treatments, eyebrow tattooing and hair loss treatments. The Ministry of Strategy and Finance says this taxation is expected to bring in 2.49 trillion won in revenue over the next five years. The five most common treatments in Korea — nose jobs, liposuction, wrinkle removal, breast augmentation and double-eyelid surgery — have all been subject to the value-added tax since 2011. “No matter what the price is, people will find the money to be beautiful,” says Kim. “I sometimes think I would rather live somewhere bad or not buy a car and instead have surgery because I know it will make my life better in the end.”


The cost of beauty

Average prices by surgical procedure

Source: Korean Consumer Agency; International Society of Aesthetic Plastic Surgery

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INSIGHT Edited by Elaine Ramirez (elaine@groovekorea.com)

Women’s struggle to defy prejudice, stereotypes and tradition

The fight for equality Story by Annie Narae Lee / Illustrations by Derrick Dent, Jungeun Jang and Aaron Philby Additional reporting by Hyejin Park and Jongmin Lee


In

October 2012, journalist Kim Tae-eun published an article on Nate under her pop culture critic pen name, Eri Kim. The story addressed the issues of misogynistic attitudes against female sexuality and sexism, and it garnered fierce responses from both sides of the argument. “Gender equality is the final phase of human liberation, together with the complete abolition of discrimination against sexual minorities. Liberation of women is a proud chapter in the book of human liberation,” she wrote in the article, titled “What Boseulachi, You Pitiable Men.” Kim’s article garnered the most comments on the website that week, attracting women who supported her arguments and men who picked apart her points. Among the variety of responses to her article, she was surprised at the number of men who inundated her with backlash. “Most women were very appreciative of my column. They even sent comments about certain incidents they had experienced related to gender issues. Some men also responded in similar ways,” she says. “However, most men argued that the gender inequality index is a bad system in the first place and even

Confucian roots The concept of women’s rights was not considered an issue in pre-modern Korea. Until the Democracy Movement of 1987, Confucian tradition was largely responsible for dictating the roles of women. Confucian standards peaked during the Joseon era, when a woman’s identity was entirely dependent on that of men, whether she was a daughter, a wife or a mother. Virtues of chastity and modesty were strictly enforced and expected, and women were expected from a young age to portray themselves as innocent and modest. Confucian tradition is not as strong as it used to be, as South Korea opens its doors to foreign businesses and ideas, especially among the generation of youths who live a vastly different life from their parents’ or grandparents’ generations. Yet some of its fundamental ideas still linger. So Eun-sil, 34, is a physical therapist– turned-homemaker, and recognizes her subordinate role in her family. “I have two older brothers and I am the youngest of three children. My father cares more about my brothers’ children than my child, when they are all his precious grandchildren. I feel discriminated against as a daughter at those moments.” Song Ran-hee, who works for the Korea

criticized me for making such a claim when women seem to have gained so much power. Some of them were very rude and low as to say, ‘I’d rather watch porn than read your article.’ Some of them also seemed to be furious about the fact that women are exempt from serving in the military. … I was surprised and shocked by many people’s violent comments and sexist thoughts.” While such extreme sexism in Korea does not account for the majority of men’s attitudes, there is a fundamental problem in attitudes against women that dates back centuries, says Kim. Such issues are reflected in the daily discrimination that women continue to face, from looking for jobs to family pressures to society’s expectations about their image. “Historically, Korea is a nation founded on Confucianism that places women at the bottom of the hierarchy and that treats women as inferior beings to men,” explains Kim. “Korea was not a strong country, and people’s efforts to protect and preserve their identity served to strengthen their conservative values. “Despite the much-improved social status of women since the modern era, discriminatory attitudes still continue to persist.”

Women’s Hotline, a support group for victims of domestic abuse, grew up with South Korea’s standard image expected of girls. Having helped and seen the dire situations of many women who come through the organization’s doors, she is familiar with the harsh criticism that comes when women deviate from the norm. “The good girl, good wife, good mother: to be demure. They have to manage their body well. Despite this, at the same time, you (have to) do everything,” says Song. “It’s a confusing lesson to girls. Challenging social norms, overcoming gender discrimination — it’s really difficult, so the girls choose the easier way, like going to the beauty salon. Pretty girls are more valuable. “In Korea, the backlash is really powerful.” There are three factors, says Chung-Ang University professor Lee Sang-wha, that have helped uphold Korean society and eventually led to the demure girl image of today: gender segregation, division of gender-assigned labor and the subordination of women. Confucianism and Korean identity are so intertwined that it is difficult to separate the two, she notes. Confucianism was not simply a religion or ideology that dictated gender roles — it was a deeply rooted philosophy dictating morality and the general way of life. The complex question of how Confucianism and feminism can coexist is one of the main

issues that frame feminist discourse here. Confucianism historians and feminists debate whether Confucian values encourage gender discrimination and whether they are responsible for the sexism in Korea today.

‘The good girl, good wife, good mother: to be demure. They have to manage their body well. Despite this, at the same time, you (have to) do everything. It’s a confusing lesson to girls. Challenging social norms, overcoming gender discrimination. It’s really difficult, so the girls choose the easier way, like going to the beauty salon. Pretty girls are more valuable.’ Song Ran-hee, Korea Women’s Hotline Up until 1987, Confucian tradition directly influenced the restriction of women’s rights on matters like property inheritance and divorce. It was not until the events of the June Democracy Movement that year that Korea saw the rise of revolutionary demands for gender equality and abolishing unfair impositions on Korean women. A momentous turning point, the mass protests called for various reforms in

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government policy, which led to the elections settings. that formed South Korea’s current govern- “When I see my male friends, they talk about ment, the Sixth Republic. their sex life proudly. They think that men This social revolution toward democracy should have a lot of experiences of sex, but allowed for women to gain access to better they like virgin girls. I think it is hypocrisy, bejobs, health care and rights when the Na- cause sex is something only boys can brag tional Assembly passed a variety of laws, like about, but not girls,” says Hong Tae-young, the Equal Employment Law and Family Law, 23, a marketing intern at Atlas Copco. “Boys which protected women from age-old preju- don’t mind if they have a lot of sexual experidices. After the Democracy Movement, wom- ences before marriage or not. However, when en’s organizations had leverage in the political girls are not virgins before they get married, sphere: They would urge women to vote for there are still many people who think it is not candidates who supported women’s rights modest behavior.” and discourage them from voting for those “Girls are usually blamed for doing ‘unfemwho did not. inine’ stuff. I was a smoker once and evAs a result, the status of women became a ery time I smoked in public, elderly people significant topic of interest among politicians, would stare at me while they simply passed and still carries weight today as the govern- by male smokers,” says Hong Yoon-ah, 22, ment works toward climbing the rankings of a job-seeking graduate of the Rhode Island various global indices, such as the Global School of Design. Gender Gap Report. The everyday experiences of women in KoIn the 1990s, the movement spilled beyond rea are still dictated by old values that push the political sphere to include a woman’s daily them to appear subordinate and innocent. experiences, openly fighting against the resi- This message resonates strongly with today’s dues of Confucian patriarchy’s influence. This generation of women through marketing that evolution of women’s rights saw women mak- commercializes the feminine image. ing leaps in access to and quality of jobs and One only needs to stroll through the busy education. The female labor participation rate streets of Seoul’s Myeong-dong. Numerous grew from 43.1 percent in 1986 to 50.2 per- cosmetic stores line the maze of the shopping cent in 2006, with the ratio of women obtain- mecca, luring girls and women in with promoing post-secondary education rising from 24.1 tions and free samples. Plastic surgery adverpercent in 1980 to 40.9 percent in 2008. tisements are common at subway stations and “During the 1990s, the ideology of feminism on trains, from small posters to blown-up billswept Korea, raising much social awareness,” boards, with such ads lining almost every wall explains Kim. “In addition, with women’s in- of Apgujeong Station. It is a modern way of creased participation in the workforce, uni- imposing the demure, Confucian-influenced versity courses that taught domestic skills image that is desired and expected. drastically lost popularity. Women accounted Hong Tae-young remembers this ideal being for over 50 percent of medical students and enforced at a young age. those studying for the bar exam.” “I was an active kid when I was in elementary school. I wanted to cut my hair really short in summer, but my parents said no because girls should care about their appearance,” she says. Women today: “It was not a big deal, but it was very stressful image, standards for me to care about my appearance, thinking and resentment of other people’s (perceptions of me).” Roh Yon-hee, 31, a lecturer at a private It was somewhat inevitable, however, that academy, believes that this expectation is so this progress would also bring on new is- ingrained that many girls obsess over their imsues for women in Korea, particularly within age constantly, wanting to achieve the same a working culture that is new to dealing with preferred look. the rising position and authority of women. “If you want to date a typical Korean boy, When you combine women’s growing pres- you’d better have long hair, big eyes, perfect ence in corporate culture with South Korea’s skin and a petite body, wear a dress and not significant jump in economic prosperity, a new too much makeup, smile and listen to him but enemy has formed that targets women where not show your feelings directly. laws cannot protect them: a woman’s image “It is both fun and tough. Most Korean girls and how she is expected to behave in social care about ‘the look’ very much; you can eas-

ily find fashion items anywhere,” she adds. “One thing I do not like about living in Korea is that people all look alike. When a new look hits the market, you will see the same fashion style several times the next day. And I kind of feel forced that it is the must-have and I don’t (have it).” Despite the government’s pledge to spend more on gender-related policies, James Turnbull, blogger of The Grand Narrative and speaker on feminist issues in Korea, points out a contradiction in their censorship choices

‘If you want to date a typical Korean boy, you’d better have long hair, big eyes, perfect skin and a petite body, wear a dress and not too much makeup, smile and listen to him but not show your feelings directly.’ Roh Yon-hee, lecturer of K-pop music videos. In 2012, Korean pop icon Hyuna released her single “Ice Cream.” With the catchy line “I’ll melt you down like ice cream,” the colorful music video, featuring Psy, shot to 10 million views on YouTube in just four days. “‘Ice Cream’ by Hyuna is just a great example of what the Ministry (of Gender Equality) finds acceptable and what they don’t. Hyuna is just blatant sex imagery, completely for the male gaze,” he explains. “Whereas ‘Bloom’ by Ga-In is sexuality from a woman’s perspective — admittedly very explicit, in one part she starts masturbating on the floor — but no less explicit than ‘Ice Cream.’ This was one of the few songs about sexuality from a woman’s perspective.” Pop singer Ga-In’s single “Bloom” was also released in 2012. Unlike Hyuna’s “Ice Cream,” “Bloom” was a ballad: “You’re my Wonderland, you’re my whole new world.” “‘Bloom’ was banned by the Ministry of Gender Equality and Family, which is all for the women’s rights, whereas Hyuna’s was for the male gaze (and) that was fine,” notes Turnbull. The sexism that exists today arises from this kind of subordination for male authority, especially in the current capitalist environment where women are gradually gaining influence, Turnbull says. Resentment that men have against women came out of an economic shift that has gained momentum over the last 15

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years. “The number of female part-time, irregular workers skyrocketed, relatively speaking, whereas the number of men doing it decreased.” This, Turnbull says, is where many men found reason to become bitter toward women, whom they viewed as threatening to their economic wellbeing by taking the jobs they viewed as theirs. “In the last 10 years you’ve had a lot of the … ill-educated, economically vulnerable, poorest men in the country in direct competition with women.”

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Journalist Kim attributes most of the sexist they blamed women for their troubles. responses to her article to such men. “Men “Some guys have more economic power, but who post anti-female comments online are some are really poor. Some have power in solikely to be those who are socially disadvan- ciety and some don’t,” says Kim. “I think the taged,” she says. “Most of them being unem- powerless and poor male group wants to have ployed, they hang around in PC cafes to kill better lives. … So they found weaker groups time.” — they hate women and immigrants.” Song of the Korea Women’s Hotline also This competition bred resentment, which believes the country’s sexism arose from the became evident in the form of a stereotypigroups of poor men that found themselves cal image of an overindulgent female spender. threatened by women whose economic sta- The image was created by these men, who tus was rising for the first time. Rather than were competing against well-educated womseeing themselves as a distinct group of the en gaining high-status positions, says Turnbull. population going through financial struggles, It wasn’t long until their bitterness took a clear


hold to form a female caricature. “The ‘bean paste girl’ is a type of woman who spends all her money on Starbucks and Gucci handbags, to the extent that she can’t afford to eat bean paste because she’s spending all her money on all these goods,” notes Turnbull. The expression emerged on the Internet in the 2000s from the Korean word doenjang, or soybean paste. It describes a vain woman addicted to luxury goods who would rather eat cheap meals, such as doenjang soup, so she can buy Starbucks coffees. In Korea, coffee is seen as an expensive commodity. The lyrics of Psy’s megahit “Gangnam Style” poke fun at this stereotype: “A classy girl who knows how to enjoy the freedom of a cup of coffee.” “I don’t think it’s any coincidence that this caricature set up to be critiqued by everyone suddenly appeared when so many men were, and had good reason to be, genuinely resentful of what they saw as women increasing in financial power,” says Turnbull.

‘I don’t think it’s any coincidence that this caricature set up to be critiqued by everyone suddenly appeared when so many men were, and had good reason to be, genuinely resentful of what they saw as women increasing in financial power.’ James Turnbull, The Grand Narrative

Breaking the glass ceiling The government has addressed a variety of issues concerning today’s female workers and potential female workers, from interview processes, to lack of leadership roles, to stronger support for maternity leave. “The Park Geun-hye administration promised … 70 percent employment. And in order to achieve that, we have to increase the female employment rate from 53.5 (2012) to 61.9 percent by 2017,” Gender Equality and Family Minister Cho Yoon-sun said in March at a conference cohosted by the Asan Institute for Policy Studies.

President Park’s promise to raise the employment participation rate to 70 percent by the end of her term requires a higher participation from women, who are struggling to gain equal recognition in their careers and avoid discrimination in their daily lives. Despite laws protecting women, gender-based discrimination persists as the patriarchal nature of traditional values seeps heavily into corporate culture. In 2012, South Korea had the largest gender wage gap in the developed world, where women make 37.4 percent less than men in the same positions, according to the Gender Wage Gap Report by the Organization for Economic Cooperation and Development. They also face difficulty competing with men for certain jobs when employers assume, whether consciously or subconsciously, that they are the weaker sex. Hong Tae-young, the marketing intern, said she was pressured by her male peers from running for president of a club at work, even when there was no explicit rule regarding the restriction of women running. “When I was joining a presentation club last year, there was a rule that only boys could be involved in the working committee. (Management said) it was because men are physically stronger than women so that they could work longer days than women, but I thought it was totally sexual discrimination.” Kim In-young, 25, is a graduate of Ewha Womans University and currently works in logistics at CJ Corporation. She said she was asked blatantly sexist questions during interviews while job-hunting before she found her current position. “The question that made me uncomfortable was, ‘Can you really do this work competing with other male workers?’ I think that question means, ‘You seem too weak to be a member of this company and we prefer a strong man to endure hard work.’” As only 1 in 5 workers are female where Kim works, she believes her employers carry the stereotype that logistics is tough for women. Women’s endurance for the job is not the only concern employers are seemingly wary of. Roh Ye-jin, a teacher at a private elementary school, worries about the fate of her job if she were to get pregnant. “I heard from many of my friends that after getting married, it’s really hard to find a job because (employers) think they will get pregnant and quit. So some of my friends don’t say they’re married,” says Roh. “For me, I got married while I was working, so I’m lucky. If I got pregnant on this temporary contract …

maybe I could lose my job.” Such factors prohibit women from advancing in their careers to the point of affecting their personal decisions to start a family. According to 2013 data, South Korea has among the lowest birthrates in the world at 8.33 births per 1,000 people, or 1.19 children per woman. To combat this, the government encourages its citizens to get married and have children, even implementing Family Day to encourage procreation. But many women find it difficult to commit to having children, knowing of the financial burdens that lie ahead and that their career opportunities may dwindle. “I don’t understand the government,” says Roh. “They ask us to produce babies, but I cannot.”

‘I heard from many of my friends that after getting married, it’s really hard to find a job because (employers) think they will get pregnant and quit. So some of my friends don’t say they’re married.’ Roh Ye-jin, teacher

Lee believes women are treated well, but questions their treatment in a corporate setting. Although she is currently studying business in school, she explains that she has not worked long enough in a company to come face-to-face with such issues. “The welfare system has changed a lot but not everywhere, so for women who are high-achieving, they want to get promoted. But they’re always confronted with a wall that they can’t overcome, like a glass ceiling.” Roh Yon-hee, the private academy lecturer, was job hunting for six months in a string of unsuccessful interviews until she found her current job. “It is true that there is a tendency to think women who are over 27 may quit their job as soon as they get married or have a baby. And fully I understand the situation, as I also had a hard time looking for a job.” With issues like this, it is even more difficult for women to gain satisfaction in upward mobility, especially in obtaining leadership positions. “In Korea, we have slightly more than 40 percent of female workers in the private sector. But we have only 1.7 percent of management in the private companies, female manage-

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ment. In the public sector, slightly more than 42 percent are female employees,” Minister Cho said at the conference at Asan Institute. With issues like this, feminism and fighting for gender equality may seem like far-off revolutionary causes detached from women’s daily hurdles. “Women in Korea can be very passive, like other women in Asia,” says up-and-coming photographer Jung “Julia” Ji-hyun. “Of course, nowadays women are very powerful and vocal, but those powerful women are facing negative sentiment among people in general.” Jung lived briefly in Australia and recognizes the depth of Korea’s strict social expecta-

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tions of women. “People in Australia look at me more as I am, I guess. Koreans seem to be very judgmental,” she says. “The status of women in Korea now isn’t actually bad. But they expect or want women to be womanly and feminine, to be more complacent.” Jung believes that she lives in a country where being a woman means conforming to social expectations. She says that most women’s ambition is to get married. With the endless array of cosmetic and plastic surgery advertisements, everything they do seems like it is to achieve the goal of marriage, she says. With such ideas ingrained in women’s minds from a young age, Jung is uncertain about

what could ignite a feminist revolution. She believes women need a major change of mindset to empower them to fight for gender equality. “I hope women in Korea do not give a shit about what other people think about them, and I want them to think that marriage is not the goal of their lives. Be more idealistic.” Jung does believe that change will eventually happen. “Slowly, though, after my parents’ generation passes away. Korea is a very family-oriented society and family pressure is a really big thing.”


The future of women’s welfare Some remain pessimistic about Korea achieving gender equality. Song of the Korea Women’s Hotline thinks the government’s first priority is the economy, expecting everything would fall into place if it were thriving. In 2013, the World Economic Forum’s Global Competitiveness Report placed South Korea’s economy as ranking 19th worldwide out of 144 countries, up from 24th in the previous year — an incredible feat for a country whose economic development is considered relatively recent. Yet at the same time, the Global Gender Gap report placed South Korea 111th out of 136 countries in 2013 in overall gender equality. It was a drop from being ranked 108th the previous year. “I don’t think the government has interest (in gender equality), because the economy is really important so they think any other problems will be better automatically,” she says. “There is a Gender Equality Ministry in Korea, so people think that’s enough.” Similarly, So, the homemaker, believes the government’s initiatives do not tackle issues at their roots. “It is gradually improving, but I feel like the government’s policies are still superficial,” she says. “The government should make policies that can touch upon fundamental issues for women, (like) supporting child care so that women can continue their career after giving birth.” Nonetheless, Korea has a lot of progress to look back on, and So does not feel that sexism is as threatening a problem for women as it once was. There are signs of change for women in Korea, with small steps led by President Park, South Korea’s first female elected leader. In 2013, the Ministry of Employment and Labor organized a part-time job fair, with 30,000 people coming for job interviews and consulting. Fueled by Park’s initiative to raise the overall employment rate from the current 65 percent to 70 percent by the end of her term, the encouragement for married women to come out of career disruption – generally due to maternity leave or child care – is gradually growing. Perhaps as a response to the 2013 Global Gender Gap report, the Ministry of Strategy and Finance revealed late last year that it would allocate 22.4 trillion won to gender-related policies for 2014, up 68 percent from the 2013 budget. The funds target a total of 339 projects focusing on child care support,

sexual violence prevention and encouraging Anna Lee, a student at Sungshin Women’s employment for women, among others. University who has traveled extensively, beEven the Korea Women’s Hotline has tak- lieves the change is already here and many en initiatives beyond domestic violence to women choose to say ‘no’ to what other encourage young women to fight against the women do, just as she did. She is optimistic standard image of how girls should behave about what women are capable of doing in toand present themselves. It has its own educa- day’s environment. Overall, she believes that tion program to teach girls that they don’t have women in Korea are treated well, as long as to give in to the barrage of beauty standards they choose to take control of their ambitions they will face. and follow their own happiness. But there are “In the summer we went to a camp with teen- many who believe that women face unfair obage girls … and we talked about beauty and structions that do not make it easy, and somediet. These kids, they don’t think (vanity) is times even impossible — especially under the a problem; it’s an inevitable thing they have scrutiny of others. to do. (But) it’s not an inevitable thing. Let’s ‘I believe Confucian traditions rethink this,” says Song. “We also (want to will gradually disappear. My target) teenage girls, so we have a group for teenagers. We go camping, we do lectures generation is very different from and many things.” that of my mom. My child’s With such initiatives, a handful of Korean married life will also be very women remain hopeful and continue fighting different from mine. I think for women’s welfare, even if that means just it is more significant to seek starting with the right attitude. out constructive solutions for “Things are getting much better. I can feel it,” women than to disclose how the says Hong Tae-young, the marketing intern. “I think women should change (things) first. past traditions were absurd.’ Boys cannot know how things are unfair to So Eun-sil, homemaker girls, because they never experienced it. Girls should act preemptively, and take responsibili- “Five years ago, there was a term called Alty for developing their own careers.” pha Girl. Alpha Girls do what they want to do As Korea modernizes and expands its inter- and they’re successful,” she said. “It wasn’t a national ties, the isolation it had maintained up (bad thing); it just shows a new different genuntil the 1970s and 1980s continues to erode. eration of Korean women.” Old values — especially the influence of ConAlpha Girl, a term coined by Harvard profucian tradition — are fading. The young, fessor Dan Kindlon, refers to girls who are technologically wired generation is immersed equal or sometimes superior to boys in school, in new ways of interacting with each other, es- sports and jobs. They embrace their femipecially with the opposite sex. ninity and use it to their advantage to pursue “I believe Confucian traditions will gradually higher aspirations, overcoming barriers placed disappear,” says So. “My generation is very against them. different from that of my mom. My child’s mar- “These days, a lot of Korean women don’t ried life will also be very different from mine. I get married although they are over 30 years think it is more significant to seek out con- old. They follow their ambitions and careers structive solutions for women than to disclose until they feel like they really need to get marhow the past traditions were absurd.” ried,” Lee says. “Although society still gives Journalist Kim believes Confucian values no them pressure to get married, they still feel longer hold relevance in Koreans’ modern dai- like, ‘This is my life, I have my own control, I ly lives. can live by myself.’ So there are a lot of wom“Confucian values are not inherently Korean; en who are not married and have their own nail they are, in fact, just values that were rein- art shop, hair salon, website or whatever they forced in the late Joseon dynasty. Therefore, want to do. It has changed a lot.” there is no need to obsess over keeping the If this is the case, then approaching gender tradition,” Kim says. equality may be only a matter of time, and Roh “In this global world, all nations are intercon- Yon-hee, the lecturer, is one of the hopeful. nected. Through numerous women’s rights “We should understand, accept our differencmovements, Western countries that were es and respect each other. Men should share historically patriarchal have now advanced in housework and caring for children. Women terms of gender equality. … A social hierarchy should be more responsible for what they are where women are at the bottom only shows a in charge of. I believe time will heal the probnation’s lack of advancement.” lem, and it actually is happening now.”

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The art of the tease WhiteLies specializes in subversion Story by Jamie Keener / Photos by Andrew Faulk Photography

GrooveCast GrooveCast host Chance Dorland chats with WhiteLies. Check out the podcast episode at groovekorea.com.

‘Burlesque is not about stripping. It is about telling a story with your body. It’s about the art of tease, and you can tease however you choose to.’ Nell Fox


T

of props, like the plastic pigs, to assert her he lights are glowing off of Straw- from a voyeur’s perspective.” “I know feminists who think doing burlesque belief in burlesque as feminist art and to get berry Chérie, performing tonight as Lady Pig. She is dressed in black is really the opposite of feminism, that it’s audiences thinking about their inner desires. briefs that reveal her long limbs playing into the hands of patriarchy’s female- “I always think, who doesn’t like a spank?” and a black bra harness that holds as-sex-object, man-as-audience dichotomy,” she says. “No one will ask for one, but when six plastic baby pigs snug against her chest. she says. “I think, however, that such a view- you get one, you are happy.” Her real specialty seems to be upsetting Each pig is filled with strawberry milk, and as point can itself be patronizing. Burlesque, to the music plays Chérie puts a straw into each me, can turn that dichotomy on its head, and expectations. “She’s trying to break the typical sexist imone and invites people to the stage to suckle violently force viewers to reconsider their her. The crowd goes wild as two women join preconceived notions of audience and per- age of men enjoying women as an object,” says India DeLune, a singer and a newcomer her, each one leaning in to drink from the former.” Roxi Ramone, a professional dancer from to WhiteLies. “Instead, she can objectify the straws dangling from her chest. The laughter and cries from the crowd send Chérie New York, doesn’t see any friction between audience if she wants to.” into fits of pleasure as the women do what her politics and her dancing, either: “I’m a they’re told. Next, Chérie leaves the limelight feminist, and I do burlesque because I love it In demand to move through the audience, inviting others and it’s how I express myself. I don’t see any This year, WhiteLies will take their act to to repeat the act. By the time she is done, reason why those two things should conflict.” Korea Burn, an annual Burning Man event. Not everyone seems to feel that way. Mem- The last time they were there, they invited the audience has literally milked her dry. Chérie is a member of WhiteLies Burlesque bers say one of their biggest challenges is people to write one thing they loved about Revue, which got its start five years ago with finding venues that let them perform without themselves on pieces of silk hung up around a group of Army wives who performed on limits and finding audiences who understand their booth. post. The group is part of the new burlesque, what they do. “Most women will always say things they Fox says that prospective members often don’t like about their bodies, but this was which keeps the kinky props, satirical sneer and sassy attitude of previous incarnations; tell her they want to change themselves by framed in a way that was like a celebration but unlike those early versions, this is less losing weight or augmenting their features (of the body),” DeLune says. “It was really to conform to conventional ideas of beauty. revolutionary.” about the strip and more about the tease. “Burlesque is not about stripping,” says Nell That’s not what the group, or burlesque, is Fox plans to carry on the tradition this year Fox, the group’s current leader. “It is about about. by quilting all the pieces of silk from last “Burlesque helps women to portray them- year’s event into a backdrop for their booth. telling a story with your body. It’s about the art of tease, and you can tease however you selves how they want to be seen, not only Back in Seoul, the group is increasingly in how they feel perceived by others,” she says. demand, building its fan base, branching out choose to.” Fox says she was an introvert with little “It lets them show their true side, and gives into upscale clubs in Gangnam and lending fashion sense and even less confidence others the chance to see a woman feeling at their talents to charity events such as for the before she did her first burlesque show her sexiest and most confident.” Korea Breast Cancer Foundation and North three years ago. But as time went by she Korean refugees. became more confident and began incorpo- Objects of desire No matter what they do, they are sure to rating elements of striptease into her act. Her The group has eight core members, and break a few rules. “That’s what we do,” Fox newfound skills have transformed both her each person’s act is an expression of the says. “We tell stories, we do the art of tease, image of herself and her career. Now she’s individual and their experiences. The only we throw any rules out the window.” a self-proclaimed glitter junkie with some Korean in the group also happens to be a serious fire-spinning skills who doesn’t have man who is known for being a chameleon any reservations about embracing herself as and having a talent for performing in precara powerful woman. iously high heels. “He transforms himself so completely, he never looks the same twice,” Fox says of Feminism in burlesque? Fox says that in performance, the group Vita Mikju, adding that he dances in stilettos tries to capture “the feeling of wanting to “better than any woman I’ve ever seen.” Mikju aims to defy the expectations of Koglam up and feel good about your body and to have a chance to be like, ‘Look at me, I’m rean society and blur the lines between tradia sexy woman and I’m not scared to let you tional definitions of femininity and masculinity. He points to the kilts worn by men in Scotknow it.’” If the group had a manifesto, that would land as an example of how those definitions be it. The members see the female body as don’t always apply. “I want to break those boundaries,” he says. a canvas from which the audience can form their own opinions, just as you would with “I want to show that I’m still male, even if I do any other work of art. They use sexuality look feminine.” His propensity for stirring things up is to deconstruct gender and femininity, while challenging the idea that what they do sub- shared by Strawberry Chérie, a photographer, More info performance artist and costume designer WhiteLies presents “Tough Girls” verts feminism. Kitty Folie, who is involved in all areas of who hails from France. On stage, Chérie is When: May 28, doors at 9 p.m., show at 10 p.m. production, says that people who look at bur- a bold performer who plays with fetish, gen- Where: Club Myoung Wol Gwan, Hongdae lesque in this way are “looking at it entirely der and bondage. She uses a provocative set Cost: 10,000 won (includes one free drink)

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The choice

Legal or not, women are making choices about abortions and finding doctors who support them Story by Shelley DeWees Advertisements courtesy of Planned Population Federation of Korea Additional reporting by Kyndra Love, Hyejin Park and Jongmin Lee

or if the fetus is suspected of having a genetic disorder or communicable disease. It’s a very narrow passageway through the red tape, yet the number of women who successfully obtain an abortion has skyrocketed since the early 2000s — 350,000 abortions are performed each year, compared to the 450,000 live births performed, according to the Ministry of Health and Welfare. For every 1,000 women in Korea, nearly 30 have had an abortion. That’s more than in the rest of the developed world (the average hovers somewhere around 27), even though abortion is illegal in Korea. Most of these procedures are not “unsafe” either. In Korea, a great number of women are accessing safe, low-risk abortions in sanitary facilities by trained professionals, despite their illegality. Concrete statistics are difficult to come by, but the abortion estimates are assumed to be on the low end, with some estimates putting the numbers at well over 1 million. Women are getting abortions every day, but for Salvatore and women across Korea, accessing a counselor, finding support or even ‘Choosing whether or not to determining where to go just to discuss options is tricky. No hospital or ob-gyn openly give life is the most powerful admits to performing the procedure for fear moment a person can have, of prosecution, even though arrests are tremendously rare. True, the law is largely unenbut also the greatest burden forced — the JoongAng Daily found only 17 in the world. … This was not indictments between 2005 and 2009 — yet government intervention is a real risk. Women a clear-cut choice. Not at all.’ who are found guilty of undergoing an aborMelissa Salvatore tion while not qualifying for one of the exceptions can be jailed for a year and fined 2 million But in the end, she said she knew what won. For doctors, too, the consequences are would be best for everyone involved, maternal very serious: loss of licensure and at least two years in the slammer; more if the woman is instinct aside. “This was my life, and my chance to take injured or dies as a result of the procedure. But Salvatore found someone nonetheless. charge,” she said. “I had to act.” Abortion is illegal in Korea, and is only al- “The woman in charge of translation at this lowed in cases of rape or incest, if the preg- clinic asked me to come in immediately. She nancy will likely damage the woman’s health, was a godsend,” Salvatore said. “It was really

No words can adequately illustrate the shock, fear and sorrow I experienced at the moment I discovered I was pregnant.” She was a Canadian expat living in Busan, casually dating another foreigner, just taking a pregnancy test on whim, all before being handed the jolt of her life with that small plastic window and its world-altering outcome. Only those who have experienced it can truly understand it. Positive. Life. Cell growth where there was none. The beginning of something, someone, the end of existence as you knew it before. Whatever hangs in the balance of that little centimeter-square window means something different to everyone, but to Melissa Salvatore*, it meant a choice. “I contacted my boyfriend right away and he tried hard to say the right thing, to be supportive,” she said. “But I knew it was up to me. Choosing whether or not to give life is the most powerful moment a person can have, but also the greatest burden in the world. … This was not a clear-cut choice. Not at all.”

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thanks to her that everything happened the way it did for me.” That day, alongside the interpreter, the doctor confirmed her pregnancy and Salvatore immediately started planning what she needed to do, steps she needed to take, how she would cope. Her decision was unmade at this point, but she knew with confidence that abortions were commonly performed, and that maybe, if she asked carefully, she could possibly find someone who could offer a solution. At first, the doctor said no. Unequivocally no; absolutely not. But then, the interpreter turned to the doctor and said something that changed both his mind and the course of Salvatore’s life. “Suddenly, they were telling me how it could be done,” she said. “The right strings were pulled and the appointment was made for the following Saturday.” She spent the week agonizing over her decision. Counseling through the clinic was not available, so she sought out a few resources from home that helped put things in perspective. Informed, prepared and aware of the magnanimity of her choice, she got through the doctor visit just fine and spent the afternoon recovering among sympathetic ears. “The nurses were amazing,” she said, “so comforting and kind. My situation was common, totally non-unique. They held my hand the whole time and communicated their care, even without a common language.” The general consensus among most women — Korean and foreign alike — about their experience at the hospital is positive: safe and secure environment, fast procedure, welltrained medical staff, as good an experience as one could expect considering the circumstances. But beyond the walls of the clinic, the question of abortion is less clear; it’s pulsing through Korean society, penetrating social customs and long-held ideas about sexuality and racking the brains of government officials.


‘As of 2010, it can no longer be said that there is a lack of discussion on abortion. … It’s raging in newspapers, chat rooms and in the halls of government.’ Andrew Wolman, assistant professor of law, Hankuk University of Foreign Studies

Abortion! It’s never easy. Abortion is illegal in Korea. Those who have either had or performed an abortion can be punished. It is important to both prevent abortion and have the right perspective on life.

Bye, Mom... Three hundred forty thousand abortions are performed every year, and that many lives are lost. We have to protect the lives of those trying to make their first trip into the world.

Politics and the birthrate debate The current legislation is a combination of two laws, the first from the 1953 Korean Criminal Code prohibiting abortion entirely, and another from the 1973 Maternal and Child Health Act superimposing the system of exceptions on top of the ban. Since their enactment, the laws and their application have been plagued by incongruencies — the government energetically promoted abortion from the early 1960s through the 1990s to prevent overpopulation — but there hasn’t been much movement toward changing the rules. Until now. “As of 2010, it can no longer be said that there is a lack of discussion on abortion. … It’s raging in newspapers, chat rooms and in the halls of government,” said Andrew Wolman, assistant professor of law at Hankuk University of Foreign Studies and author of “Abortion in Korea: A Human Rights Perspective on the Current Debate Over Enforcement of the Laws Prohibiting Abortion.” Korea’s abortion debate differs from the West in that it doesn’t focus as much on the morality conversation; questions of religion and morality are present, but they’re simmering underneath. “The debate centers on whether the government should enforce the existing law,” Wolman said. “Those in favor of a crackdown come from two camps: government officials and obstetricians.” Doctors have been vocal opponents since the beginning, and now they are the loudest voice against the practice, citing issues of criminality and making it their business to call a penalty on what they see as a flawed system. “The income from performing illegal abortions has become a fundamental part of our practice. … These days, one cannot run a clinic without performing them,” said Dr. Anna Choi, founder of the antiabortion group GYNob. The group boasts a membership of nearly 700 doctors who all agree with Dr. Choi’s comments to the National Catholic Register back in 2010: “This is a tragic situation and a serious problem for our society. Not seeing the fetus as a living being promotes a culture of contempt for life. … We’ve become indifferent to these illegal procedures.” GYNob wishes to abolish abortions in Korea and has already set up a hotline to report doctors who perform them. The Catholic Church and other pro-life religious groups have rallied behind GYNob, though the majority of the group’s members have no religious affiliation.

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“There are no other countries in the world GYNob actively promotes itself throughout Korea, even asking its members to publicly where a ban has effectively reduced the rate apologize for having performed abortions in of abortion. Everyone wants to lower this numthe past, and demanding enforcement of the ber, but we’ve got to seek out constructive solutions that don’t denounce women,” said current laws banning the procedure. The government has different reasons for Kim Hee-young of Womenlink, an NGO with wanting to continue the ban, Wolman said, 10 branches across Korea. “People are expected to have as many chiladding that the government’s logic is hugely convoluted. “And after the report about the dren as possible now, and they’re even calling birthrate came out, things really came to a women who have more than three ‘patriots.’ Does that mean those who choose not to give head,” he said. birth are traitors? That’s absurd,” Kim said. “According to the government, women are ‘The debate centers on whether the main reason for the low birthrate,” she added. The government and society prioritize the government should enforce national interests over individual freedoms, the existing law. Those in favor which she says “has led the Korean people to of a crackdown come from two perceive women who give up motherhood as camps: government officials enemies. It’s like a scarlet letter.” Womenlink has taken an active role in conand obstetricians.’ demning the government’s proposals, most Andrew Wolman, assistant professor of law, notably in 2009, after women in the audience Hankuk University of Foreign Studies at a Sungshin Women’s University event were asked to swear they’d eventually have babies. Korea’s birthrate is extremely low, second Womenlink joined with the Korea Sexual Vioonly to Singapore, a few regions in China (in- lence Relief Center to say the birthrate meacluding Taiwan) and the British Virgin Islands. sures were “anti-human rights” and “a porThe average number of children a woman will trayal of women as instruments for childbirth, produce in her fertile years is only 1.24, one rather than human beings with reproductive of the lowest rates in the world, and, moreover, rights.” Kim said that much of the government’s one of the lowest ever recorded. According to the OECD, the trend will transform Korea current family planning policy stems from outfrom a country with the third-youngest popula- dated rules based in Korea’s Confucian past, tion as of 2012 to one with the second oldest “causing us to apply a double standard toward women.” by 2050. Her supposition is supported by a 2011 Policymakers, charged with reversing the decline and sufficiently alarmed at the difficul- study in the Journal of Adolescent Health ty of such a task, have taken some aggres- that found eroding Confucian values to have a sive steps to address the problem. Proposals “distinct association with adolescent or young have mostly been monetary in nature, includ- adults’ sexual behavior.” Four Chinese doctors ing huge benefits for third-born children such interviewed over 30,000 never-married young as completely free education and advantag- people about their intimate behaviors and es in gaining entry-level employment, special discovered that Confucian constraints do, in mortgage rates for families with lots of kids many cases, act as a safeguard against preand financial support for artificial insemination. marital sex, but also that these constraints can Other ideas have ranged from the conven- “evoke stigmatization.” Kim is not at all surprised. The unequal tional — ­ extending the retirement age and relaxing immigration rules — to the creative. gender roles of a Confucian society require Family Day, a suggestion from the Ministry of women to be “rather passive” when it comes Gender Equality and Family, requests a vol- to sex, she said. “The double standard comes untary monthly shutdown in offices so work- into play when you see the huge responsibility ers can go home and procreate. And to the demanded of women as a result of their sexgreat displeasure of many, these plans have ual relationships.” She said the required deference to family also been accompanied by strong antiabortion and the high value of sexual purity engrained campaigns. Women’s rights advocates have been quick in Confucian beliefs — she explained that to spring against these efforts, pointing to the some women feign ignorance during sex in lack of a precedent for the success of such order to avoid looking too experienced — contribute to making many women feel incredibly a ban.

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guilty for terminating a pregnancy, or in some cases, choosing not to. Professor Wolman goes even further: “Although it’s tempting to blame the birthrate on the lack of enforcement of antiabortion laws, it’s not necessarily a convincing explanation,” he said. “There are many other causes.” Labor market insecurity, marriage and social trends, distribution of income and changes in educational opportunities are making people think differently about baby-making. Wolman also noted that “banning abortion in order to increase a state’s population has a bad history, used by some of the most coercive and authoritarian regimes.” It was commonly practiced in Stalinist Russia, and more recently in Romania under the Ceausescu administration.

Real women, real choices In 2013, Womenlink, Hee-young Kim’s organization, published a book recounting the stories of 25 women who’d undergone the procedure. “I Had an Abortion” features women like Minju Shin* who explain their decisions and relate their experiences. “I was so worried about what other mothers in the hospital would think of me,” she said, “even though I was there with my husband. I felt guilty for some reason. But we were barely making enough money to feed our family ... there simply wasn’t space for another.” Suji Sook* went to the hospital with her husband too, but she was lectured about the wickedness of her ways, “like I was some kind of sexual deviant,” she said. “I apologized again and again, and felt like I owed them some kind of explanation. It was humiliating.” The majority of women in the book who sought out abortion are just like Minju and Suji: over 30, married and a mother already, often more than twice over. In choosing to abort, they cited problems of resources, child care and their own potentially derailed careers as a result of a new baby in the family. Some also ended pregnancies because of advancing age and a fear of birth defects. At age 40, Lucy Kang* decided to terminate her third pregnancy after the doctor expressed concern that the child could have a disability. “I was older, but I would have never gone through with it if I thought my child could succeed regardless of the circumstances of their birth. Our society discriminates against people from the day they’re born.” Single women reported being made to feel depraved and “easy,” as Song Eun-so describes it. “People are just so conservative …


when they hear you got pregnant, they think pleaded with the doctor to just go ahead with it anyway, explaining in Korean that Hyo-jin needed help, you must’ve been getting it on all the time.” For Sunny Cho, the situation was grave. “My and that David would just leave the country and desister had just gotten married at age 22, and stroy her daughter’s life. “The doctor responded with a near-laugh,” David said, even though they all said she was too young and that her boyfriend wasn’t good enough, “saying she didn’t think I’d be leaving the country since my father finally gave permission and the wed- I was the only one trying to save the baby. I couldn’t ding proceeded.” It was during all this drama stop them from going somewhere else, but I did have when Sunny realized she’d become pregnant. the power to stop them that day, in that doctor’s office. Marrying young was one thing but the pros- I knew it wasn’t right for us; Hyo-jin was being guided pect of becoming an unwed single mother was by fear.” Later on, David went home alone. He thought he’d much more serious. “I couldn’t tell anyone,” she said. “I was so never see Hyo-jin again, worried she’d go straight to afraid they would force me to marry my boy- another clinic, felt for sure their relationship was over. friend and that I’d be stuck.” Sunny con- But then Hyo-jin came back to their apartment. “She sidered her options — and even thought of explained that my performance at the doctor’s office running away for a while to give birth — but had surprised and impressed her mom, and that whatever assumptions Min had had about me were now eventually she decided on an abortion. “No one ever knew, not my sisters nor my discarded.” Hyo-jin was happy and relieved she had parents. I felt so stupid, but I couldn’t have not gone through with the procedure, and apologized a kid with no dad,” she said, referring to the repeatedly for agreeing to the appointment. strong stigma against, and lack of support for, “Cultural pressures and expectations had gotten the better of her, for that moment anyway. But in the car unwed mothers in Korea. Fitting into Korean societal norms was also she’d told her mom that unless she wanted to partica big problem for Hyo-jin* and her American ipate in a positive manner, she’d better stay the hell boyfriend David,* who were happily making out of our lives.” plans for their baby to arrive when, about a month into her pregnancy, Hyo-jin finally got up the nerve to tell her parents. As David told Groove Korea, “Her mom, Min,* started bombarding us with negative criticism, saying Hyo-jin’s life in Korea would be ruined and her family’s reputation tainted if anyone found out she’d gotten pregnant with a foreigner. And out of wedlock, too.” Min then set out on an aggressive campaign to convince the couple to abort, starting with questioning David’s fitness as a partner and culminating in her actually making an appointment for her daughter’s abortion at a clinic she’d found on the sly. David was against it, but by this time Hyo-jin was starting to become convinced that abortion was the right thing to do for her family. So, even though neither of them really wanted to, Hyo-jin and David kept their appointment. “The clinic was small, clean, professional,” David said. “Pretty much exactly like a standard doctor’s office, and at that particular time I was the only male in the place.” Hyo-jin went in first, and the doctor started prepping her for the procedure. When David came in 10 minutes later he was handed a small piece of paper. “It was all in Korean, but Hyo-jin explained it released the clinic from liability, and in order for the doctor to continue we would both have to sign it,” David said. “But I refused.” ‘The Light of Life’ Hyo-jin begged him to reconsider, while Min Let it never go out!

‘I apologized again and again, and felt like I owed them some kind of explanation. It was humiliating.’ Suji Sook,* from ‘I Had an Abortion’ (2013)

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The education situation Stories like these are not unique, Kim from Womenlink said. “Korean women are forced to make this choice secretly and hastily, and since everyone involved in an abortion could potentially be arrested and indicted, and because people are still reluctant to talk about sex,” she said, “proper health services are not allowed. Women need more information. They need more sex education.” Last year, the Ministry of Education, Science and Technology raised the number of hours required for sex education from 10 to 15 per year. But as the JoongAng Daily reported in a story that year, there is not a standard national curriculum for the subject and classes often consist of a video. One teacher said that even if there were a good curriculum, parents wouldn’t want their children to take time away from their studies to learn about sex. In 2012 Cha Chi-young, a professor in the nursing department at Ewha Womans University, remarked to The Korea Herald that sex education in Korea is an extreme failure. “It focuses strongly on virginity, which is of no interest to students. As a consequence, they are getting unreliable information from the Internet, nothing practical or useful.” And in a country where most people report having their first sexual encounter at age 14, without contraception, she said, it stands to reason that unwanted pregnancies are on the rise. Professor Wolman concurs: Contraception, and the lack of education on its use, is a key issue. “The reasons for the large quantity of abortions in Korea are complex, but they clearly center on contraception. There are no socially acceptable means of it,” he said, referencing a study that suggests an extremely high prevalence of both the rhythm method and withdrawal methods at a combined 20.5 percent (in the U.S., that number is 3.2 percent). “Condoms and birth control pills have yet to achieve significant market exposure and are widely mistrusted by Korean women,” he said, an unsurprising statistic considering contraceptives have only been allowed to appear on TV since 2006. But Kim stresses that although some classes only cover the “physical traits of the opposite sex,” she’s been seeing improvements in Korea’s sex education programs and in the promotion of contraception. During her research for “I Had an Abortion,” she only found one case in which a woman who’d had an abortion was too shy to suggest contraception. And even still, she said, “this woman was pretty old. It’s true that Korean women are reluctant to talk liberally about sex, but I’m not sure young people feel that way so much anymore.”

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Never force a baby out of a mother’s womb!

I may be small, but I am alive! Even the smallest actions can prevent physical and emotional harm! It all starts with a small effort!


‘I may be small, but I still have a right to be loved.’ Babies have a right to be born into love.

A personal choice

How to get help

3. Settling the bill On average, the total cost of an abortion is somewhere between 500,000 and 800,000 won, all of which will likely need to be paid in cash. This usually includes the initial consultation, the procedure itself, a follow-up exam and medication. While individual plans vary, it’s unknown whether any of these costs are covered by insurance.

If you’re in Korea and in need of support, For many women like Melissa Salvatore, the social debate is irrelevant. “When it comes to counseling or just information, there are a abortion, it’s more common than people real- number of resources should you decide to ize. We get so caught up in the debate that terminate a pregnancy, or to seek out other we forget what the experience can actually be options. like,” she said. “I want women to know … they 1. Finding a counselor are not alone.” Unless you have strong or fluent Kore- 4. Knowing what to expect After her ordeal, she took a trip to Thailand to clear her mind and reflect. Backpacking an-language skills, it may be easier to seek Don’t be surprised if you don’t have the through the jungle, thinking, she felt a strong out phone services from your home country. same negotiating power with the doctor as need to contribute, to make this information Planned Parenthood is an excellent place to you would at home. Abortion is illegal, and more available so other expat couples wouldn’t start, with 24-hour access to phone counsel- as a result clinics have a lot of red tape to be afraid to reach out if they found themselves ing and support, completely free of charge. sidestep and established methods for doing in trouble. Using a pen name, she wrote “My Other places to look include Choice in Health, so. Ultrasounds, the use of anesthetics and Abortion in Korea” for KoreaBridge, delivering the British Pregnancy Advisory Service and recovery procedures for the clinic are all dean honest account of how she found herself the Australia Pregnancy Counseling Link. Also, signed to avoid trouble with the law and, acin this situation and what it was like to dig her consider contacting a former doctor from your cordingly, are unlikely to be changed for you. way out, start to finish, in full detail. Since the home country, since many of them either offer piece went out, she’s been contacted by more the same assistance or can point you in the 5. Practicing prevention than 100 men and women looking for help. direction of someone who can. But no matter There are many options available. Birth conShe gets two to five emails every month and where you look, be certain you are receiving trol pills are reliable and accessible over the unbiased, reliable information by thoroughly counter for less than 10,000 won, including responds to every single one. “I offer encouragement, suggest a few plac- researching the organization before you call. familiar brands and others with comparable es they can look for counseling services and hormone dosages to those found abroad. information, but mostly I just tell them that no The most popular brand is Mercilon (머시론), Planned Parenthood matter what, whatever they decide is the best a low-dose pill available in 28-day packs for www.plannedparenthood.org for themselves right now — that’s the right 7,000 won. The Korean word for contracepChoice in Health choice,” she said. “I tell them it’s going to work tives is “pi-im-yak” (피임약). There are even www.choiceinhealth.ca out.” more options available from the gynecologist, For David and Hyo-jin, the experience ulBritish Pregnancy Advisory Service and appointments are simple, fast and cheap. www.bpas.org timately ended well. Following their ordeal, You can get OrthoEvra, Nuvaring, Implanon or things steadily improved; Hyo-jin and her famMirena IUD. There are also also a myriad of Australia Pregnancy Counselling Link ily reconnected, David’s family offered support www.pcl.org.au condom options at HomePlus and E-Mart. and encouragement and in March, they had *To protect the indentities of the people welcomed a healthy baby girl into their lives. involved in this story, the names of “What appeared to be a nightmare in the 2. Finding a doctor some interviewees have been changed. Groove Korea is unable to direct you to phybeginning has culminated in a happy, positive, healthy way,” David said, and his new mother- sicians who perform abortions. However, MeGrooveCast in-law is doing her best to welcome him into lissa Salvatore has amassed a list of contacts GrooveCast host Chance Dorland and writer the family. “After we got married, Min started and first-hand reviews that will help make Shelley DeWees speak with Melissa Salvatore driving over to our house to drop off food and sense of it all. Contact her at melissa_salvaabout abortion. Check out the episode at goodies. If this is her way of showing her sup- tore58@yahoo.ca. groovekorea.com. port and love, I’ll take it.”

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Breaking the silence around abuse Greater awareness, open discussion needed to combat culture of blame Story by Eileen Cahill Illustrations by Vanessa Sae-hee Burke Additional reporting by Jongmin Lee and Hyejin Park

T

he first time her husband hit her, Trinh Thi An* had gotten up in the middle of the night to comfort their crying daughter. She forgave him because they had a child together and because his behavior seemed out of character. But the violence continued. Once, he grabbed her by the neck and punched her in the face in front of the child, who was about 3. Another time, he physically forced her out of the house and wouldn’t let her back in. When she went to the police for help, the officers convinced her husband to sign a letter of apology in which he promised not to do it again. But one day, Trinh came home from work to find her husband naked on the bed with the child, and he was encouraging her to touch his genitals. Trinh is one of countless women in Korea who experience violence, some on a daily basis. The perpetrator could be a flasher on the street or the creepy coworker down the hall. Or he could be your friend, your date or your spouse. According to the Supreme Prosecutors’ Office, 22,034 rapes were reported in 2011. Of those, 18,591 cases resulted in arrests with 18,880 offenders being convicted. However, only 12 percent of those found guilty were sentenced to jail.

*This name has been changed to protect the identity of the interviewee.

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A lack of services, combined with a negative attitude toward victims from officials and society, means many of these cases go unreported and unprosecuted. Only 1.1 percent of sex crimes in Korea were reported in 2013, a drop from 4.1 percent in 2010, according to the Ministry of Gender Equality and Family, Trinh met her husband in 2004 when she was working for a Korean grocery store in Vietnam. He was more than 20 years older than she, and they weren’t in love, but they liked each other. Her parents thought he would be a good husband because he seemed kind and helpful. He made two short visits to Vietnam before the couple got married in 2007. The following year, their daughter was born. The Vietnamese-born Korean citizen, who did not want to use her real name, told Groove Korea that the incident involving her daughter sent her into a state of panic and despair. She went to the police on four separate occasions over the next several months and each time, the officers urged her to reconcile with her husband. Once, an officer even grabbed her hand and forced her fingerprints onto an official statement saying that she forgave him. Finally, after the fourth incident, she got help. This time the police brought her to an emergency shelter outside of her neighborhood in Seoul, where she lived for a month and a half starting in December 2012. She moved to Osan from Seoul the following March and her divorce became final that November. Trinh is currently struggling to raise her daughter alone. She makes 1.2 million won per month at her cleaning job, and rent and kindergarten fees eat up half her salary. She has applied for a low-interest loan from the government, and hopes it will give her more financial freedom and allow her to get a better apartment. In a file folder she carries receipts, invoices and legal documents — including a copy of the apology letter she received from her husband when he locked her out of the house. Despite her ordeal, Trinh is happy to be living in peace and wants to stay here and raise her daughter as a Korean. She said her daughter is very smart, speaks both Korean and Vietnamese and likes to draw. Like the proud mother she is, Trinh showed pictures of the little girl’s artwork on her phone — bright pink marker drawings of a female figure.

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Nowhere to turn

Victims of violence like Trinh report that officials in Korea often use fear and shame to manipulate women into putting up with beatings and humiliation. Feminist sites and blogs such as the Korean Gender Café and Ilda describe callous reactions from police and family members after a sexual assault. That was the experience of expat teacher Lori Michael, who arrived in Korea on Dec. 16 with a heavy backpack and an enormous suitcase on wheels that didn’t turn properly. Michael, 33, spent roughly three years teaching in Korea and was returning for another stint. When she contacted Groove Korea on Dec. 20, she’d been back for only four days and had just filed a complaint with police against her Korean employer, the director of an English-language hagwon in Jeonju. Soon after she started work, her employer took her to an elementary school for what turned out to be a job interview. When they were together in the school parking lot, things took an ugly turn. “He smacked my ass, rubbed my shoulders and punched me in the shoulders,” Michael told Groove by email correspondence. After he hit her, the director said, “In Korea, there is a problem with sexual harassment.” Michael asked her employer to release her from her contract so she could obtain the documents she needed to change jobs, but he wouldn’t cooperate unless she agreed to withdraw her complaint. She refused. “On the day I went to the police, not only did my director lock me out of the apartment and change the code, he also started to demand the 500,000 won of questionable money back,” she said. “I say questionable because right after he hit me, he had his wife send me that money and I asked why. He never had a comment for that.” Ten days after going to the police, she had run out of money and urgently needed assistance. So she got on the bus to Seoul, not sure of her next move. This was not Michael’s first emergency as a foreign woman in Korea. In 2011, while she was working at a hagwon in Uijeongbu, she went with some friends to a club in Seoul’s Hongdae neighborhood on Chuseok weekend. She left the club with a young man, whose name she never knew, and they went to a hotel together. There, Michael accepted a shot of liquor, drank it and passed out. When she woke up, she was alone. In the bathroom, she looked down, saw blood and realized she must have been drugged and raped.

“All I remember is waking up by myself in the room all alone,” she said in an email. “I remember my abdominal area feeling really strange and awkward. Almost like a cramp.” She took a shower, got dressed and left as fast as she could. Police officers helped her retrieve her belongings from the club, which had closed for the holiday, but they didn’t seem to understand her when she tried to tell them about the rape. “They just shrugged their shoulders like they didn’t care,” she wrote. She tried to report the incident again at a different police station after she moved to Paju, west of Uijeongbu. “The cops just laughed at me and took me to about three different departments before taking me to the scene of the crime,” she said. “But it was already really late, and I was just so tired and emotionally exhausted and frustrated due to the language barrier. I just wanted to go back to my apartment.”

‘ Was she drinking that night? What was she wearing? … All those things blame the victim. Nobody is saying “why did this man rape her?” or “why did she rape this man?”’ — Vanessa Sae-hee Burke

Michael tried a third time, this time with the help of the U.S. Embassy, and a police department in Gangnam, Seoul, finally processed her complaint — though not without a judgmental comment from an officer about how long she had waited. Around this time she had trouble holding a job, with one school cheating her out of her wages. So on New Year’s Eve, she applied for a repatriation loan from the U.S. Embassy and was back on a plane the same day. She is now back in New Jersey, where she wrote to Groove Korea to recount the last details of her case. A week or so after the incident, she attended a fireworks festival in Seoul with some acquaintances from Uijeongbu. They returned to Hongdae to see a band they liked, and Michael felt safe enough with the group. But at the club, she had what she described as “the strangest/most awkward coincidence of my life.” “My entire body just froze like a deer in


headlights when I saw the guy who raped me standing near the bar,” she said. Michael didn’t know what to do: Attack the man physically? Tell the people she was with? Call a club security guard, or the police? “None of the above occurred,” she wrote, “because I didn’t know who to talk to about it.” Since then, both of Michael’s cases have been closed due to lack of evidence.

Better laws, but low awareness

Korea saw a fivefold increase in sexual violence reports between 1992 and 2012, according to Ewha Womans University professor Lee Mi-kyoung. This figure includes rape, sexual assault and other offenses such as flashing. The reporting rate increased as well, from 2.2 percent in 1992 to 7.6 percent. “But the rate is still very low,” said Lee, who has taught women’s studies since 1990 and whose main interest is the legal protection of victims’ rights. The reason the rate is so low, she said, is because there is a general lack of awareness about sexual violence in Korea, and improvements in the law have yet to make a real impact on society. “Korea enacted the law (on sexual violence) in a relatively short period of time,” she said. Now, it’s a matter of ensuring that the law is enforced correctly, she said. Recent reports have suggested that sexual violence has actually declined in recent

‘ I don’ t know where I got the idea that it was my fault, and I don’ t know where I got the idea that I couldn’ t tell somebody about it, but it took a long time to come forward.’ — Chelle B. Mille

years, Lee said, citing a recent news article examining the sexual assault reporting rate based on surveys in 2010 and 2013. She said she believes the results are reliable, but said it is premature to conclude that the number of sex crimes has decreased just because the number of reports has dropped. “Actually, this is how the government reads the statistics: They assert their policy was highly successful by concluding that the number of sex crimes decreased,” she said, adding

that it is important to look beyond the statistics and reflect on the people behind the numbers. Lee said police sensitivity and sexual assault prevention programs needed significant improvement. Police agencies are establishing special victims units across the country, which she called a helpful step. “But that doesn’t mean everything,” she said. “We should think about whether people from the unit (understand the issues surrounding) sexual violence.” It is important to invest in training to that end, she added. Korea’s law on sexual violence mandates educational programs on sexual harassment prevention at the elementary, secondary and university levels, as well as in the workplace. But she said these programs generally consist of lectures given to large groups of students, and she hopes for more open discussion on the subject. “We do not have the kinds of opportunities where people share their personal experiences as victims of sexual violence,” she said. Lee is also a director, cofounder and board member of Korea’s first rape crisis center, the Korea Sexual Violence Relief Center, which opened in 1991. The KSVRC is a nongovernmental organization that seeks to address sexual violence by advocating for victims’ rights and changing the way society and institutions look at the issue. That approach distinguishes the KSVRC from other centers, she said. The organization receives a portion of its funding from the Korean government, about 60 million won a year, but Lee said that covers only a fraction of its operating costs while restricting its activities in the areas of advocacy and government monitoring. For example, the government requires the center to enter victims’ personal information, including their resident registration number, into a database. The government says this is done to prevent fraud, including false claims and duplication of support. The KSVRC believes the policy could endanger victims or lead to re-victimization, but the organization is limited in what it can do to challenge the

practice. “We usually collide with the government over administrative problems,” she said. Nonetheless, Lee said she has seen real progress over the years in the availability of assistance for victims. “The new government announced four major social hazards — sexual violence, domestic violence, school violence and junk food — and they are making efforts to eradicate them,” she said. “Thanks to these efforts, an institutional infrastructure (to address sexual violence) has been established.” However, she also said there is a need for greater awareness about what constitutes sexual violence and a change in societal attitudes toward assault victims. “We should be aware that sexual violence is something that can either happen to me or be done by me,” she said. “We can also look at it as having a sensitivity toward human rights. It is not limited to sexual violence. It is a process of figuring out ways to be considerate and respectful in human relationships. Without this process, it will be difficult to eradicate sexual violence.”

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INSIGHT Edited by Jenny Na (jenny@groovekorea.com)

Moving forward, fighting abuse together

Expat groups are filling the gaps in the system for their communities by creating safe spaces for dialogue and sharing information. Before she left home, a sexual assault had left Vanessa Sae-hee Burke emotionally shattered and disillusioned with her friends, her college, the police and the legal system. To distance herself from the experience, she worked multiple shifts as a counselor at a rape crisis center, in a program for teenagers, and in another program specifically for teenage boys who had been sexually violent. Although the work was helping her heal, she eventually realized she needed a new start. She came to Korea three and a half years

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ago to live as free as she could from that painful time in her life. (Although Burke was a victim of sexual violence, she prefers not to disclose details of her own case because she doesn’t want to invite comparisons.) She also wanted to help empower other women who had been through similar experiences. Last summer, she cofounded Disruptive Voices with two friends, Rydia Kim and Chloe Lee, to encourage open discussion about sexual violence, gender discrimination and other injustices affecting their lives. She said the name Disruptive Voices was a response to the way victims of assault in Korea are treated. “You’re blamed for it, you’re guilted, you’re treated horribly for it, you’re ostracized for speaking forth. We’re tired of being told to be quiet and that ‘Ugh. You’re going to talk

‘ S tand your ground. Know that you have sisters around … you’ r e not alone. … Keep fighting, ’ c ause you’ v e got warriors behind you whether you know it or not.’ — Vanessa Sae-hee Burke

about this again?’” she said. “You’re going to talk about whatever the hell you want. This is something that has changed our lives and caused a big shift. So ‘disruptive,’ because we’re not gonna blend in. We’re disrupting the peace, I guess, or the ignorance.” Burke, a teacher, artist and designer who grew up in the Boston area, has since left the


group, but remains passionate about the need to support victims of sexual violence. After being haunted by harassment for most of her life, Chelle B. Mille used her trauma to start a branch of a global organization dedicated to helping people going through similar experiences by giving them space to speak out. “Harassment for me started at 11 years old in Chicago and it’s followed me through Japan, through D.C., through Korea, everywhere that I’ve lived,” she said. “And when I was 11 and being harassed, I don’t know where I got the idea that it was my fault, and I don’t know where I got the idea that I couldn’t tell somebody about it, but it took a long time to come forward and tell my mom.” Her mom’s reaction and the actions she took afterward helped Mille understand that it wasn’t her fault.

‘ W e should be aware that sexual violence is something that can either happen to me or be done by me.’

— Lee Mi-kyoung, Ewha Womans University professor

“But I don’t know if everybody gets the opportunity to have a conversation,” she said. “I have a lot of friends who never spoke up about harassment starting that young.” She launched Hollaback! Korea in December with two others and it is part of an international movement active in 79 cities in 26 countries that is devoted to stopping street harassment. The group in Korea, which has since grown to 23 members hailing from different countries, encourages people to share stories on their website as a way to raise awareness about the issue and build a community of support for harassment victims. “We don’t know what our rights are sometimes until we get to talking with other people,” Mille said. They also urge people to demonstrate their support by intervening when they see harassment or violence. Their website offers advice about ways to intervene, from checking in with the victim, to distracting or otherwise interrupting the harasser, to appealing to an authority figure for help. The site also has a list of organizations that provide assistance to harassment victims, some of which can arrange emergency shelter and accompany women to court or to the police station, and a mobile app that enables users to share information about sexual assault,

sexual harassment and school bullying. There is also a map that tracks harassment in the city by allowing users to pinpoint incidents of harassment or intervention and share details about what they’ve experienced or observed. However, Mille says people are not always aware of all of the things that constitute harassment, because some behaviors, like catcalling, have become normalized, and people don’t always understand consent. “When I first came to Korea in 2006 I was warned that if I went to a motel room with a man it was considered consent for anything that would happen. I think this was a common thing,” she said. Still, the lines between what is and isn’t classified as harassment, as well as between the various types of harassment that can occur, are murky at best. “You know, harassment is really a very intersectional thing and even sexual harassment is very intersectional,” she said. “Almost nobody can divorce sexual harassment from the elements of racism in it or the elements of classism or homophobia or transphobia. So sexual harassment is sort of like the main buzzword, but all of the incidents that we’re seeing have elements of a lot things in them.” Ultimately, she says it’s “the person who experienced the violence — their definition of the event is the most important one.” But even if it’s clear that harassment has taken place, it often takes another leap to get to the next step — reporting the incident. Mille says people don’t always come forward to report harassment because in some cases they fear retribution from those around them. “Making the decision solo, you really have to have a level of trust that it’s going to be taken seriously,” she said.” When Burke was victimized in the United States, she recalled, she was treated like the criminal and many of her closest friends sided with her attacker. “I don’t want to paint flowers or glittery bits on it. If you do report, it’s a hard journey,” she said. “And it sucks because it’s right in your face, it’s naked, it’s bare who your real friends are.” She explains that reality in two words: rape culture. “Was she drinking that night? What was she wearing? … All those things blame the victim,” she said. “Nobody is saying ‘why did this man rape her?’ or ‘why did she rape this man?’” A rape culture also creates an atmosphere of doubt about assault victims, she said. “We assume they’re lying.”

She praised Lori Michael for refusing to withdraw her complaint and would advise anyone in a similar situation to report the incident. “Stand your ground,” she said. “Know that you have sisters around, … ’cause you’re not alone. … Keep fighting, ’cause you’ve got warriors behind you whether you know it or not.”

Resources Disruptive Voices Disruptive Voices is a community project under Varyd that seeks to build a strong community of support for people who desire, demand and aim to speak for change and empowerment. Find them on Facebook or email them at disruptivevoices@gmail.com. Hollaback! Korea Hollaback! Korea was launched in December as part of an international movement to stop street harassment. Visit korea.ihollaback.org or find them on Facebook. Korea Women’s Hotline Find them at enghotline.tistory.com or call (02) 3156-5400. 30 Relief centers operated by the Ministry of Gender Equality and Family Call 1899-3075 (national number). Operators refer callers to the nearest one-stop center or to the Sunflower Children’s Center. Seoul Survivor Services Find them on Facebook or email seoulsurvivorservices@gmail.com. Jeolla Safety Alliance Find them on Facebook. Korea Sexual Violence Relief Center Visit their website at www.sisters.or.kr or email them at ksvrc@sisters.or.kr (English and Korean). Migrant Women’s Emergency Support Services Call 1577-1366 for counseling and assistance available in 11 languages or visit their website at www.wm1366.or.kr. The Korean Gender Café Visit the website at koreangendercafe. blogspot.kr. Ilda: South Korean Feminist Journal Visit the website at ildaro.blogspot.kr for articles translated from English to Korean.

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INSIGHT Edited by Elaine Ramirez (elaine@groovekorea.com)

Artist’s Journey brings you daily doses of inspiration, including weekly podcasts featuring artists from around the globe. Learn more at facebook.com/myartistsjourney or www.artistsjourney.org. — Ed.

Rydia Kim, rights activist and fashion entrepreneur Column by Wilfred Lee / Photos courtesy of Rydia Kim

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ith entrepreneurialism in her veins, Rydia Kim has slowly created a unique empire with her fashion line, Varyd, aiming to go against the superficiality of modern Korean fashion. She is also a brave voice for human rights with the organizations Disruptive Voices and soon-to-be-launched The Shield. Artist’s Journey’s Wilfred Lee sat down with Kim to discuss taking risks and blossoming into the person you’re made to be.

80 www.groovekorea.com / May 2014


Groove Korea: How did Varyd get started? Rydia Kim: In the very beginning, I was going to Dongdaemun and online shops and couldn’t find clothes that were simple and unique, the way I wanted. I felt like the fashion lines in Korea all copied each other and were a bit too feminine for me. I was thinking I could make clothes that are slightly better, and that maybe I could start printing some shirts. Last year, I ran into Vanessa Burke, a talented artist. I like fashion, she likes art, so I thought, how about we combine the two? And that’s how we started. Up until the launch, it was a lot of hard work, a lot of hiccups. Although Varyd has launched and is doing well, it’s still an experiment and an adventure every day. I’m always looking for new artists, new models and new looks that are unique. What inspires you to make Varyd stand out among other brands? The biggest thing is that Varyd has to stand for something. There are so many clothing lines out there, so competition is already extremely steep. If I didn’t go for a longer-term business plan or target of trying to stand for values, it wouldn’t last long. For example, our slogan is “Much more than clothing.” I know that if I employed more “Gangnam Style” typical runway models in our shoots, we would sell more. That’s just the way the fashion industry runs. And if I had just copied the trends, led the trends and followed them, then of course I would be generating more profit now. However, I didn’t want something that was just trendy at the moment, that can be hot for now and can disappear. I wanted something that was original and I’ve always looked up to and aspired to be a respected artist because there’s so much different art out there. One of the things that Varyd stands for is to support creativity and artists and their art. I want to give them a platform through fashion where they can get their name out there, get their designs worn and to make money. Second of all, I’m really against plastic surgery, especially because when I was young, I was really ugly and people would tell me that. It took me a really long time (to be comfortable with myself), but the type of people I want in my life are people who love me for who I am. And that’s the type of brand that I want to stand for too. Also, I’m especially concerned for young people who get surgery. I feel like their faces haven’t even fully grown yet, they haven’t fully developed and blossomed into an adult, so they’ll never really know what they’re supposed to look like, and what they should look like. So, at Varyd, we only use models that are 100 percent natural. That’s one of the weird, awkward questions I have to ask when people say they want to model for Varyd. If they did do surgery, I actually do turn them down. I know that’s not the most popular thing now, but that’s not what I want to stand for. I want to be proud of the brand that I’m representing that I’ve created. So, no plastic surgery, no more “Gangnam Style.” Our models can be short and bald, big thighs, short legs, I don’t care. As long as you love who you are, you have a unique look, and respect other people, you can definitely model for us. I wanted to stand for the community as well. I love giving back. I’ve been doing volunteer work for a long time, and I always think about giving back to the community not just because you want to have a better brand reputation like some big companies do, but because you

actually care about stuff. That’s how Disruptive Voices came along. What inspires me is different artwork, different fabrics, different people. Sometimes when talking with people, I feel and start seeing things that will inspire my clothes. So, I want Varyd to be a brand that you can come visit and feel like you can relate to, and that you can also model for and that gives you confidence and comfort when you wear our clothes. What is The Shield? The Shield is a soon-to-be-launched nationwide campaign, partnered with Varyd Designs and Disruptive Voices. The Shield is all about raising awareness of women’s rights in Korea, but in a fun way. Usually, if you hear “rights” (human rights, women’s rights, feminism), the stereotypical view and perception about the topic itself is really serious, boring and stiff, but we are all trying ‘One of the big to break that by creating a commuthings that you nicative gathering that’s open to ev- definitely need if you eryone. The Shield is going to have are even thinking of several programs under its campaign. opening your own The one I’m most excited about is business is to love The Shield Enforcers. What it means risks, the instability, is you can volunteer and get a weekthe unknown. You long training which is hardcore, and need to be one enforcing the law making sure people of those people get home safe, to lessen physical and sexual violence against both women who can thrive on and men in areas such as Hongdae, uncertainty.’ Gangnam, Itaewon and the Sillim — Rydia Kim area — major drinking places for university students and adults. There’s a lot of danger in those areas, so The Shield people are going to be hitting these places during the weekend so that nothing bad happens to them. It’s a night patrol and I’m excited to see how it pans out. What makes a great entrepreneur? I’m going to preface the question by saying that I’m not a great entrepreneur; I just have the entrepreneur blood in me. I still would love to meet people who can give me guidance and mentor me, help me expand, distribute and market better. One of the big things that you definitely need if you are even thinking of opening your own business is to love risks, the instability, the unknown. You need to be one of those people who can thrive on uncertainty. You definitely also need self-discipline, consistency, persistence, to be very dedicated and have a huge amount of conviction for what you’re doing. Of course, don’t be stupid and think that something is amazing when it really isn’t. And be flexible, go with the market changes and demands. You also need to have faith. You need networking skills (and to be) able to speak about your brand or company or services, in a proficient, professional yet fun manner. You gotta love what you’re doing, you gotta love people, you gotta love listening.

More info j Visit Varyd Designs at facebook.com/Varyddesigns or varyd.com.

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INSIGHT Edited by Elaine Ramirez (elaine@groovekorea.com)

Spiritual healing Female healers lead the way to self-improvement and transformation Story and Photos by Venus Robertson

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or decades, famous self-help experts, “Incorporating meditation into your life doesn’t gurus and spiritual leaders have tire- have to be hard,” she notes in a calming, genlessly offered alternatives to living tle voice. “Although it’s nice to have the dim in suffering and inner disorder. Mes- lights, soft music and mountain air, realistically, sages repeated and packaged in an array of we can’t always have that. So whether you programs, books, audio recording and shows can spend one hour or one minute on your have covered every issue that people seem to way home, in a café or wherever you are, the thing is that you do it.” repeatedly regurgitate. First, set a practical goal for how long you Sure, maybe we need help. We are 40 kilograms overweight, have $30,000 in debt, go want to meditate, and extend it only after you to bed with the wrong people and let go of the have easily reached that goal, she explains. right people. But is it really so complicated to The point is to consciously bring yourself into get a bit of peace and calm and set ourselves the present moment and open your mind. Vipassana meditation — which means to on the proverbial right path? It may not be immediately obvious, but be- “see things as they really are” — may not be yond churches, temples and self-help books for everyone embarking on a new meditation exists a brave network of devout individuals practice, but Shia gives a very welcome and right here in Seoul who encourage people to non-intimidating suggestion for those who look past surface issues and surroundings want to try out the benefits of quieting one’s mind: “Start with just one minute. The way you and become more conscious and self-aware. Three female healers, each with unique meditate doesn’t matter — just focus on bemethods and all successful business owners, ing here now.” shared their suggestions on self-improvement, Moon Young-min, who was once a TV both in one’s mind and in relation with the outbroadcaster, notes that meditation can do side world. more than simply bring a speedy transfor“I don’t have a mentor because I realized that mation in one’s relationship with the outside once you observe your mind and its relation to world. Change can also come through what what you are experiencing in your outer world, she calls a “divine transmission.” She refers to you don’t need to look to someone else,” the hundreds of people she has worked with says Shia, an author, counselor and owner and how their lives have dramatically improved of the quaint Zen Therapy healing center on since applying this technique and receiving Bukhansan. “You will organically experience fresh, new energy. “First, you must start looking within, at your transformation.” From the center’s lofty and calming moun- own relationships,” she advises. “When you tain perch, with its rows of Tibetan singing work with them, other areas naturally become bowls and piles of crystals on shelves, the clearer. You are able to see where the root of street-level chaos appears far off and forget- your issues began.” Moon is a “Oneness” teacher. According to table. It seems an idyllic environment for medthe practice’s founder Sri Baghavan, certain itating.

82 www.groovekorea.com / May 2014

belief systems can run our lives as if on autopilot. Moon explains that the negative mentalities we may have grown up with — such as obsessions with money or power — end up running our lives from somewhere in the background. Try as we might to avoid it, we end up repeating the same patterns time and again. “It’s important to work on healing your relationship with your parents, as this was your first exposure to what relationships mean,” she adds. “As you heal these two relationships, this will also begin to move your wealth and health consciousness into a more expansive state.” According to the Oneness teachings, your health is connected to your relationship with your mother and your wealth is tied to your relationship with your father. Another, very different way that yogi and meditation teacher Ahimsa says can bring deeper self-awareness is through the reading of AuraSoma bottles, which she hopes will eventually reach mainstream Korea. The 105 rainbow-colored bottles of oil sit in rows patiently, alluringly, at her modest studio. With the catchphrase “Your light made manifest,” the bottles of alchemic mixture each have their own set of characteristics and clues that are relevant in combination only to the person choosing them. AuraSoma’s founder, Vicky Wall, is said to have received a series of reoccurring meditative visions that led her to develop the bottles further, adding herbs and crystals as co-facilitators to the oils themselves. “The reason why I love AuraSoma so much is that it gives the ‘invisible’ realm a tangible connection to the material world,” Ahimsa notes with enthusiasm. “I’ve explored many different types of meditation practices and


done plenty of spiritual work, but now my main tool (apart from AuraSoma) is simply my awareness.” She goes on to explain how an active meditation can be applied to domestic life. “When we are able to step back from an emotional connection to something occurring in the environment around us (for instance, heavy feelings when commuting during rush hour) and simply witness thoughts and feelings as an awareness, then can we be released from being affected.” A turning point in her life came when she realized that her problems weren’t just her own, and that everyone shares a collective consciousness. She came to see that by working on herself, she was affecting the greater whole. “It’s important for us all to spend time ‘finding’ ourselves,” she continues. “If we put others first (before our own well-being), then after a while we will end up questioning what we even did with our lives. It is not selfish, this act of looking within. Actually, when one is full of love … then can we be of better service to others.” The simple effect of looking within oneself and championing a state of neutrality, emptiness and “oneness” is more vividly attainable through these and many other teachers. Though they speak with different terminology, they seem to have a similar intent. Maybe it’s not as complicated as it appears, and maybe we don’t need so much help after all — just a willingness to see what exists within, accept it and allow for its change into something better.

Hair consultant from UK. Trained at Vidal Sassoon and TONY&GUY in UK Hair Salon in Sinchon

More info

www.zentherapy.co.kr www.aura-soma.net www.onenessuniversity.com

ABOUT THE writer Venus Robertson is a transformational life coach and energy therapist based in Seoul. She hosts Super Seoul Sunday, a women’s empowerment workshop and group coaching meetup. The next sessions are on May 11 and 25. Visit tinyurl.com/superseoul for details.

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INSIGHT Edited by Matthew Lamers (mattlamers@groovekorea.com)

The Money column

Foreign currency,

your passport and your options How to exchange (lots of) money in Korea Column by Paul Sharkie / Illustration by Rob Green

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hen it comes to renewing passports, we like to think we have a justifiable reason for jumping through the bureaucratic hoops. Perhaps your patriotic little book has expired or you’ve been fortunate enough to have traveled extensively around the globe, squeezing as many stamps onto each page as possible. Given the stress of actually possessing one of these pricey objects, it often comes as quite a shock when one’s bank teller — without a second thought — stamps that crisp, clean space you thought was reserved for your next memorable trip. Why do banks in Korea stamp passports? The following is what you can expect in Korea and a summary of the other options you should consider.

84 www.groovekorea.com / May 2014

ABOUT THE writer Paul Sharkie is the Foreign Client Relationship Manager for Shinhan Bank’s Foreign Customer Department. Please visit Shinhan Expat Banking on Facebook for more information. The banking information provided in this column is based on Shinhan Bank policies and may not be applicable to all banks in Korea. — Ed.


Where my child’s smile is concerned, I want the best. Any father would feel the same. Note that each person is permitted to exchange up to and including the equivalent of $10,000 of won per sojourn in Korea. The law With regards to foreign exchange transactions, the rules regulating this area of business are governed by the Korean Foreign Exchange Law and the Real Name Transactions Law, which permit the Korean government to monitor and control the outflow of Korean won. The rules are as follows:

Currency Exchange: If you want to exchange less than 1 million won (approximately $1,000) into a foreign currency in a single transaction, the transaction will not be recorded in it as the teller has the authority to do the transaction with just your ID number; either your passport or Alien Registration Card number will suffice. Your passport might start fluttering, however, if you wish to exchange more than 1 million won. Not only are you required to have your passport with you, but your teller has an obligation to make a record of the transaction and the amount in your passport. Although some wish the stamp could just be used to cover their inevitably unflattering picture, there is no alternative but to use one of your passport pages. If you are on board with this process, you might want to note that each person is permitted to exchange up to and including the equivalent of $10,000 of won per sojourn in Korea. To exchange more than this, you must designate your chosen bank as your “Primary Foreign Exchange Transaction Bank” and submit proof as to where you sourced the funds (your bank teller can advise you on this). Should you be exchanging from a foreign currency into KRW, anything up to and including $20,000 (or the equivalent) will merely require the presentation of your passport. If you exceed this amount, however, you will also have to declare this to the appropriate authorities and, of course, present your passport. Now, let’s talk about alternatives. International Check Card: You might want to consider applying for one of these at your local branch with your passport and Alien Registration Card (ARC). Cards can generally be used anywhere that accepts international cards. Do, however, check with your bank on their international transaction fees and daily withdrawal limits before departing. Overseas Remittance: Should you have a bank account in your destination, this might be a good option for you. Foreign residents can transfer up to $50,000 (or the equivalent) overseas per year in a branch, online or at an ATM, depending on which services you register for. The only limitations on this are that, once you go over this amount, proof as to where you sourced the funds (all of them, including the initial $50,000) using tax returns or other official documents will generally be required. In addition, those who exceed this amount will be barred from carrying out further remittances via the Internet or an ATM until the end of the year, and must instead visit the branch for each transaction. Please note that in order to get an international check card or to remit overseas online, you will need to designate that bank as your Primary Foreign Exchange Transaction Bank. You may only do this with one bank in Korea. This designation is easily made by filling out a simple form; your teller will even contact your previous bank (if you have one) to let them know you have made the switch.

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Advertorial Edited by Craig White (craig@groovekorea.com)

International pet care convergence

in the heart of Itaewon Story by Craig White


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oving to Korea poses its share of challenges and considerations: bringing over your essential belongings and navigating things like visa ordeals, culture integration and language issues. The list is endless. And with many of these issues, you’ll need to manage them on your own on your way both in and out of the country. Luckily for pet owners, this is one aspect of settling in Korea that is totally covered for you. The outstanding group of skilled professionals at Chungwha in Itaewon have gone to great lengths to handle the full spectrum of pet care. Starting out with Chungwha Animal Hospital, they also operate as Korea Animal Transport, which handles all of the tricky logistics of getting your pet safely here or back home again. Most recently, the new addition to their ever-growing range of pet-related services is The Pet Hotel M, which is an upscale pet hotel, influenced by premium pet hotels that one could expect to find in Western countries. Aside from their facility’s cleanliness and range of services, many foreign clients are also attracted to the English language skills of Chungwha’s highly professional staff. The pet hotel’s veterinarians, dog groomers and pet handlers will all communicate with your pet in English, helping to keep your pet’s training consistent while you’re away. Because of this international approach and prime location in Korea’s foreign mecca of Itaewon, over 70 percent of their customers happen to be foreigners. To get a better sense of what is compelling foreign pet owners to take their pet care needs to Chungwha, Groove Korea sat down with some of their staff and asked some questions: Groove Korea: What are the ranges of services that Korea Animal Transport offers? Chungwha: We offer a broad range. If you’re in Korea and departing soon, we’ll come and pick up your pet and take care of them while you deal with packing and getting ready for your flight. We ensure that your pet meets all veterinary requirements of your destination country. We’ll then take the pet to the airport for you and handle transport documentation, and even handle things on arrival at your destination, such as coordinating the delivery of your pet to your home via our network of worldwide agents. Being the only member of IPATA (International Pet and Animal Transportation Association) in Korea gives us a great international network to extend our services, whether you are planning to come to Korea or planning to depart Korea. With over 10 years of pet relocation management, we can confidently consult on the logistics of departures, arrivals and quarantine and can smooth out any wrinkles you may be experiencing with pet travel. You’ve got a Pet Hotel now. How does this measure up to the standards of what one may expect to see in a pet hotel in Western countries? I’m glad that you asked that, because some of our staff have lived in the U.S., have been able to work in pet care environments, such as pet hotels and have been effectively able to benchmark some of best pet hotels in America. We have suites of varying sizes, suitable for all breeds of dogs and cats. We do temperament evaluations of the pet to initially assess their behavior and personality traits. If you’ve got a shy dog not wishing to be around aggressive dogs, we’ll spot that quickly and keep

your dog in a section of our pet hotel that’s right for them. Adding to this is our unparalleled observation system. Although our staff is on-site from 9 a.m. to 8 p.m., one of our veterinarians lives in the same building as our facility, and has localized CCTV access to our facilities. With that in place, he can be at the hotel in a few minutes if a problem arises. On top of this, we can give you access to our smartphone app. This links you up to all of our on-site CCTV cameras that are watching your pet, so you can sit back, relax and know what’s going on with your furry friend, no matter where you are in the world. There’s something else that is special about this whole environment, isn’t there? That’s right. One of Korea’s most famous architects, Byoung Soo Cho, helped design our overall space where we work and operate alongside the pets. Byoung Soo Cho graduated from Harvard with an M.A. in Architecture, and currently spends his time between his Seoul office and his overseas office in Bozeman, Montana, set against the backdrop of the Rocky Mountains and all the nature that surrounds it. This is one of the top reasons why Byoung Soo Cho was the right person to bring our new space to life. His attention to eco-friendly principles and visions for setting a natural mood for your pets. There’s so much more that Chungwha can talk about with what they are currently doing for their customers’ pets and the new services that they plan to keep adding. If you are a pet owner or soon to be one, it would be a wise use of your time to stop by their offices and have a chat with them over coffee.

Korea Animal Transport(KAT) & Chungwha Animal Hospital (02) 792-7602 21-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul chungwha77@gmail.com j www.cwhospital.com

The Pet Hotel M (02) 797-3040 j www.thepethotelm.com


FOOD & DRINK Edited by Shelley DeWees (shelley@groovekorea.com)

Beef and friends A casual dinner at Left Coast Burgers

Story by Dave Hazzan / Photos by Nina Sawyer

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ast month I accompanied 11 of my clos- joint (anyone interested in exhibiting can contact est friends on a trek up the stairs to Left the owners), and the service was great, but it was Coast Artisan Burgers to see if the hype the burgers themselves that won our hearts. One was worth it, and to see if they could han- of my pals got the Peppers and Cheese burgdle our loud party of degenerates without er, featuring a roasted chili pepper — not a bell any trouble. It was. They could. It was awesome. pepper — stuffed with ricotta and jack cheese, Up the stairs, past Joe Lee and Michael Roy’s then topped with bacon bits and a tomato pepper funkalicious mural, the place definitely had an up- sauce. Another got the John Wayne Burger, with market San Francisco feel to it. “All three of us its BBQ sauce and surprisingly crispy onion rings. are from California,” says Un Koh who, along with She described it as “juicy and delicious ... damn James Chun and Angela Shin, filled the place with near melt-in-your-mouth.” My friend Dave had it in a west coast USA feel. “We’re exposed to great for the Seasonal Burger, a conceptual culinary profood from different cultures and a diverse cuisine ject with shiitake mushrooms, kale chips, shallots there. … We decided to bring something like that and balsamic jam; Joel devoured the Fried Chicken to Seoul.” Burger; and Annaliese dove into the inventive PopAnd the burger — craft specialty burgers, not eye Burger with candied pork belly and creamed the fast food kind — he felt was a missing piece spinach. “This shouldn’t work,” she says between in the Korea puzzle. “They’re seen as something mouthfuls, “but somehow it does!” And then there low-quality,” Koh says, just handfuls of fat and was the Juicy Lucy. Sure, you have to be careful carbs. He wanted to change that perception, to not to let it explode all over your shirt or plate, but provide a burger that is a “culinary experience” it’s so delicious that one of my friends found herself without a high price tag, so he hired himself a bril- “completely wrapped up in it.” liant chef and opened his doors. “Norah (Chung) If none of those burgers tickle your fancy, howgraduated from the French Culinary Institute and ever, there are always appetizers. The galbi fries hails from San Francisco too. She gets every patty were the choice for most of us: french fries covright. ... I’m kind of amazed by her.” ered in galbi-jjim meat, pickled peppers, onions, Local artists bedecked the walls in this laid-back scallions and sour cream. One of my friends says

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Sure, you have to be careful not to let it explode all over your shirt or plate, but it’s so delicious that one of my friends found herself “completely wrapped up in it.”

she’s still fantasizing about them (“It was like the flavors were twerking on my tongue.”). The mac ‘n cheese balls divided opinion, though; Allison loved them, but David thought the batter’s flavor overpowered the mac ‘n cheese. Otherwise, everything else was overwhelmingly approved as juicy and flavorful — my Hot Stuff Burger was superlative — with beautifully cooked patties and well-executed culinary ideas that helped Left Coast live up to its reputation. The only complaint was cost vs. portion size: A few of us were surprised our burgers weren’t bigger, and some thought them entirely overpriced (especially the drinks). However, all 12 of us said we would return again for another beefy evening out. As we left, full and happy, my friend Joel joked that he was a little closer to believing in the meaning of life. And we all agreed.

More info >Left Coast Artisan Burgers

Seoul, Yongsan-gu, Itaewon-dong 130-43 ☎ (02) 6223-5338

c Take line 6 to Itaewon Station, exit 4. When you reach street level, turn around and head down Bogwang street. Left Coast is about 100 meters down on the right-hand side, second floor.

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FOOD & DRINK Edited by Shelley DeWees (shelley@groovekorea.com)

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Seoul Veggie Kitchen

Tofu I Learn how to cook it, learn how to love it

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f you think tofu is disgusting, if the word itself makes you run screaming from the room, if you look upon it with revulsion and wonder how anyone could eat soybean Jell-O, well, you’re not alone, friend. At all. For anyone who’s ever had to slurp down poorly prepared bean curd (you know, that white, gelatinous muck) and stare at the floor to avoid stating the obvious, (“Um, hey Jon? I appreciate the gesture, but this tofu scramble looks like brain matter.”), I’m just so sorry.

About the writer: Shelley DeWees worked as a vegan chef for a Buddhist monastery before moving to Seoul. She is a columnist and the food editor for Groove Korea. — Ed.

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But there are two big reasons you should give it another chance, and the first has to do with the quality of tofu products available in Korea. The plain ol’ tofu from your local mart is far better than anything you could buy at home and will, thus, automatically yield better results. Furthermore, the main problem behind your understandably fervent tofu-hating stems from a sad, sad truth: Most people have no friggin’ clue how to cook it. Alas! No more! Good tofu is a magical thing: healthy, filling, cheap and a perfect addition to almost any meal. You can throw it in with fried rice, wrap it up in tortillas with homemade hummus and spinach, drown it in barbecue sauce and serve it alongside bowls of chili, crumble it on pizza or just eat and eat and eat it until you can’t eat anymore. Once you learn to love it, a whole new culinary world will reveal itself, and soon you’ll be festooning your fridge and cupboards with all the colors of the tofu rainbow: soft tofu, crumbly tofu, sweet tofu, tofu for stew, tofu for burgers and tofu for pie. But first, before all that, start with oil and salt. It’s your party, and you’ll fry if you want to.

Perfect fried tofu Living where you do, among people with spectacular tofu-making skills, it almost goes without saying (almost) that you should steer toward the homemade stuff whenever possible. It’s generally found on the lower shelves of the refrigerated section in green plastic flats; just take a bag from the roll, grab a brick, tie off the bag and head for the checkout. The packaged tofu is still totally decent — albeit it more expensive and sold in smaller portions — if your local store doesn’t carry the real deal. Look for the water-packed stuff in square containers, and do not, under any circumstances, attempt this recipe with “silken” tofu (연두부). That’s a whole different thing. Ingredients •2-3 tbsp oil •1 brick tofu •Salt to taste

The first step towards amazing tofu is to drain and dry the brick. Drain away any water and plop the whole thing on a cushion of paper towels about 5 layers thick. (You could also use toilet paper ... I won’t tell.) Place a second, identical paper towel pad on top of the brick before putting the brick between two plates on the counter. Set a coffee cup or a heavy can on top of the second plate to act as a weight, and then walk away. Let it sit for 15 minutes, up to 30 if your brand of tofu is particularly wet, then unwrap it and slice into eight even pieces. Using your largest skillet, heat the oil over a medium flame until it’s shimmery. Gingerly lay the slices down in the oil, sprinkle liberally with salt and cook for 4–5 minutes, or until you start to see some golden brown color creeping up the sides of each slice. Flip the tofu very, very carefully like you would a pancake, then cook for an additional 4 minutes. Remove the slices to a plate and serve.

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Destinations Edited by Shelley DeWees (shelley@groovekorea.com)

I’m in the mood for shopping Haggling your way into a Shanghai escape Story by Simon Hunter-Williams Photos courtesy of D’n’c

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This glitzy and glamorous city is an ideal place to splash your cash or to get your bartering skills in order. Just remember, the real price is never the one on the label.

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hanghai is a city tagged with many names: “The Paris of the East,” “The Pearl of the Orient” and my personal favorite, “The Whore of the Orient” (the East India Company found the city to be very helpful in satisfying both their tea needs and their burgeoning taste for opium). My love affair with Shanghai started when I moved to Korea three years ago, and I have returned to it annually because it feels like a second home. Yet, even still, each visit reveals something new and enchanting. The city offers ever-changing cultural locations, arts, food and, most especially, fantastic shopping — what more could you want? Shanghai is a perfect place to meet, greet and buy, and you won’t even have to spend tons of money. Just jump on one of the daily direct flights from Seoul and see how the mood strikes you; travel plans in this wildly cosmopolitan city are best made on the day. The quickest entry into Shanghai from Pudong Airport is on the Maglev train. Pay 50 yuan (around 8,000 won) for a ticket then hang on tight as the train whisks you

from the airport to Longyang Road Station at 150 mph. Transfer to line 2 or 7 for the last leg of your journey into the city, away from the buzz of Korean life for the next few days. Start at the Bund to get your bearings. It offers a beautiful scenic location to capture the history and evolution of Shanghai, where the couture fashion houses and bars used to be the headquarters for many European banks. Sit in awe at the Pudong waterfront, suck up your morning brew and then head towards People’s Square, but be sure to stop off first at the Rockbund Gallery to get a touch of European art’s latest craze. Marked by a beautiful modern building that attracts the double-decker tourist buses, People’s Square is quintessential Shanghai. If you feel inspired, you can even grab one of the Big Bus tours; you’ll see the Shanghai Museum, the Oriental Pearl TV Tower, the former provisional government of Korea and the site of the first national congress of the Communist Party in Xintiandi, all on a tour that will cost you less than 5,000 won.

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Destinations Edited by Shelley DeWees (shelley@groovekorea.com)

Later on, before you hit the markets, you should consider getting a closer look at the Jin Mao Tower (also called the Golden Prosperity Building). With 88 floors, it was the tallest building in China and the fifth largest building in the world until its new next-door neighbor, Shanghai Tower, started reaching for the crown (it’s expected to be completed later this year with 121 floors). You can visit the traditional tourist viewing space or for a plusher experience, you can head to the Cloud 9 bar on the 87th floor of Shanghai’s Grand Hyatt, where an expansive view of the tower and a nice evening cocktail await you. But the next day, now that you’ve figured a few things out, the real party starts: It’s time to take yourself shopping. This glitzy and glamorous city is an ideal place to splash your cash or get your bartering skills in order. Just remember, the real price is never the one on the label, and if anyone tries to approach you for some “English practice,” keep your eyes on your pockets. These guys will distract you, then run off with your cash if you don’t have your wits about you. Nanjing Road, a short walk from the Bund, is one of the best shopping streets in China and an excellent place to watch haggling in action (and practice your theatrics); this 5.5 km stretch of shops attracts nearly 2 million people a day, so have a browse, have a coffee and gather your gusto for the real deal: Tiantong Road. It’s the mecca of the barter shopping experience, for among the steaming food stalls and piles of brightly col-

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ored trinkets are seemingly endless opportunities to take your new bargaining skills for a test drive. Here’s how to work it: If you see something you want, try to get a rough idea of the value of it before you start haggling. Stand around for a few seconds and see what others are paying, or just be bold and ask someone what they paid, and try not to drop any more money than the locals do. Once you’re ready, approach the attendant and state a price that is much lower than what you expect to eventually pay, but not so low that you show ignorance to the item’s worth. The vendor will in turn respond with a ridiculously high price, to which you should reply with open astonishment or a laugh — he’ll expect it — and a counteroffer. Bounce it back and forth until you come to a price you’re comfortable with, and try to keep a sense of humor about the whole thing; if you’re out of tricks and the attendant won’t budge, just walk away and find another seller (sometimes they’ll call you back to the booth and accept your price). AP Plaza offers the biggest market, but Dapuqiao and Xujiahui are better if you’re looking for American, European or Korean brands. And, of course, if you’re tired of bartering, there’s Metro City Mall with its three massive supermarkets and familiar stores for the haggle-weary Westerner. You can get your hands on some super cheap electronics, grab some international cuisine and drool at luxury couture brands all at the same time. It’s China at its finest.


It’s the mecca of the barter shopping experience, for among the steaming food stalls and piles of brightly colored trinkets are seemingly endless opportunities to take your bargaining skills for a test drive.

Getting there c Flights from Korean airports to Shanghai are

regular and short. A visa is required for entry into China, and acquiring one can take up to three days. Start the process early. Travelers on a budget are recommended to try Mingtown Hikers International Hostel, on Tianjin Road. Less than five minutes from the main shopping district, Mingtown will instantly make you feel like a local (and you can have your clothes washed and pressed for less than the cost of a Starbucks coffee).

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Destinations Edited by Shelley DeWees (shelley@groovekorea.com)

dak galbi From Seoul to Chuncheon

on a bike 96 www.groovekorea.com / May 2014

Story and Photos by Merissa Quek

In search of


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orea is a nation filled with avid cyclists. Take a walk down to the Han River on any given weekend and you’ll find bikers in fancy gear hunched forward on their souped-up bikes enthusiastically racing up and down the trails lining the river. It should come as no surprise, then, that one of the best ways to explore this country is to hop on a bike armed with a map and a sense of adventure. You’ll be rewarded with views of the clear rivers, still lakes and rugged mountains that grace Korea’s landscape. Oh, and a giant plate of Korean food. But before you get too excited, point yourself in the right direction by picking up a cycling “passport,” the definitive key to river cycling in Korea. Designed to resemble a Korean passport, this book illustrates courses along four huge rivers — the Hangang, Geumgang, Yeongsangang and Nakdonggang — as well as a Jeju Island coastline course. Along each route are checkpoints where you can stamp your papers, and at the end you’re entitled to a completion certificate and a medal. Finish all the courses and you’ll get yourself a grand slam certificate (and bragging rights). All the trails have lovely features, but if you have a craving for dak galbi, take the Bukhangang course out of Seoul to the capital of Gangwon Province, Chuncheon. This town literally wrote the book on the dish. Starting at Ungilsan Station in the northeast of Seoul, the course is 70 kilometers in length and takes about four hours and 40 minutes to complete (cycling at a leisurely If you have a craving pace and allowing for several for dak galbi, take the Bukhangang course out gimbap stops). It remains flat most of the way, and the few of Seoul to the capital undulations are gradual. Your of Gangwon Province, agenda for the afternoon now Chuncheon. This town involves taking in the river lazily literally wrote the flowing alongside the path, adbook on the dish. miring those almost symmetrical triangular mountains in the background and gazing at the fishermen as they stand, wait and contemplate the quiet. Get a good look; after the third checkpoint at Gyeonggang Bridge, tourists on ATVs will soon replace the fishermen. Part of the course is built on a disused railway line and will take you through several old tunnels — you can indulge in the entertaining sounds of your own loud yodeling and the accompanying echo — and past a few of those quirky pensions Korea seems to have a penchant for. About 32 kilometers in, there’s a particularly odd one with a large replica of the Eiffel Tower on its roof, injecting a little bit of Parisian flair into an otherwise very typical Korean countryside. At the end of the course lies the true joy of the journey: dak galbi. Head to one of Chuncheon’s many restaurants to enjoy a scintillating stir-fry of chicken, sliced cabbage, sweet potatoes, scallions, onions and rice cakes in a spicy, chili-based sauce, all prepared in a deep pan at the table. It’s amazingly tasty here because Chuncheon boasts a thriving chicken farming industry, and their dak galbi is made with fresh, locally produced ingredients. (If you go to a restaurant a little outside the city, you may even see chickens roaming around near the table.) The meat is boneless and tender, perfectly complemented with the slight sweetness of the potato and the spicy sauce. It’s simple fare, true, but at the end of a long day’s ride, it’s just perfect. When your belly is full, jump back on your bike and return to civilization. And start planning next week’s trip.

More info c Take the subway to Ungilsan Station on the Jungang Line and walk

down to the river trail. Bicycles are allowed on most of the subway lines on weekends and public holidays (use the first and last cars).

j More information on cross-country cycling (including information on the checkpoints where a “passport” can be bought) can be found at www.riverguide.go.kr/eng/index.do.

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MUSIC & ARTS Edited by Emilee Jennings (emilee@groovekorea.com)

Martyn Thompson Korea through the looking glass Story by Dave Hazzan / Photos courtesy of Martyn Thompson

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orea looks a little different through the eyes of English artist Martyn Thompson: The country’s animals are encased in glass cages and its people are naked and forced into submissive, uncomfortable positions. Since 2008, Thompson has created works that offer Korea a reflection of how he sees it — as peculiar and twisted a portrayal as that might be. In his first year as an English teacher in Ilsan, not a lot of art was produced. “Like a lot of expats I drank too much and did little in the way of productivity,” says Thompson. In 2008, however, everything changed. He met Kim Ji-hey, a sunny and beautiful Korean pixie girl he would go on to marry in 2010. He also formed the (now defunct) indie rock band Flying Maru together with Clint Richards and Will Edmund. They played around Seoul and Ilsan for a year and gathered something of a following, including a profile in Groove Korea (April 2009). It was while organizing a Flying Maru show at an expat pub in Ilsan that Thompson had the idea of exhibiting artwork there in addition to playing. He sold every piece he put up, which gave him the kick in the ass he needed to get his act together and do more.

‘Art is the No. 1 torture for artists. But it’s not through making the work. The most difficult thing is making contacts, maintaining them, finding places to exhibit.’ —Martyn Thompson

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MUSIC & ARTS Edited by Emilee Jennings (emilee@groovekorea.com)

‘What better person to say what a great country Korea is than someone who is not from Korea?’ — Martyn Thompson

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Big ideas from small apartments Next, Thompson started creating sculptures of cats by painting circles on Perspex sheets, stacking them and separating the sheets with bolts so they looked like cats enclosed in glass. His own two cats, constantly trapped in his small apartment, were what sparked his imagination. The inspiration for his art comes directly from his surroundings. His nudes in cramped spaces are “a commentary on the small living spaces Koreans live in, especially individual Koreans who are not married,” Thompson says. “This is the one-bedroom officetel idea that I’m trying to communicate to the audience. A lot of the images are very cramped; they’re not a comfortable pose I would put the model in.” In September 2011 Thompson got his first solo show, booking Gallery i in Insa-dong. They featured his Perspex cats and stereoscopical photographs. Since then, he’s worked with Gallery i often, curating a show every year and exhibiting there regularly. Thompson says he got lucky: “Art is the No. 1 torture for artists. But it’s not through making the work. The most difficult thing is making contacts, maintaining them, finding places to exhibit, finding sponsorship, finding funding, finding all the things you actually need to bring the exhibition together as a showpiece. Being in a country where you don’t actually speak the language fluently represents even more of a challenge as well.” Taking a bow The work that has gotten Thompson the most attention — by galleries both in Korea and overseas — is inspired by the jeol (Korean bow). Using a remote-controlled flash and shutter, Thompson photographed dozens of subjects doing the full Korean bow, including himself. The figures are overlaid on Photoshop, and look translucent until they are crouched down on the ground. “This is a very personal project, which signifies the relevance of myself learning to do the Korean bow,” Thompson says. “Repeating it, asking my wife to watch me, looking for mistakes. Trying not to make an embarrassment out of myself while I was doing it in front of her family.” Thompson, who founded the Professional Artists Network of Korea in 2012, says he enjoys shining a light on Korean culture and sharing the results with Koreans and the rest of the world. “What better person to say what a great country Korea is than someone who is not from Korea?” Thompson asks. “I think a lot of people would listen if I said to them, ‘I’m not from Korea, but look at all the stuff that’s happening here.’” How do Koreans feel when you reflect their culture back on them, I wonder. “They’re actually very, very interested,” Thompson says. “They can learn from me by seeing how I perceive Korean culture, and they can understand a foreigner’s perspective about how Korea may be viewed from foreign eyes.” No sleep for the inspired For his newest project, Thompson is leaving the camera behind and looking at Korean culture through the dojang — the personal name stamp. Using his own and his friends’ dojangs, he is creating portraits, including an enormous 2-meter by 1.5-meter picture of a friend. Each stamp is done “with different pressure, different amounts of force on the paper to make them darker or lighter, to replicate a picture, kind of mosaic style,” he explains. This type of inspiration doesn’t happen in a 9-to-5 capacity, so sleep becomes a luxury, says Thompson. “Maintaining regular sleep when you’re an artist is nigh impossible. If you have something you’ve got to do, you have to do it then, when you have that impulse. That time is the prime time to get on the computer, or edit that photo with the thought you have in your mind. If you make notes of it, you never, ever replicate what you had in mind. You have to do it right there, right then. I have occasionally woken up at three or four o’clock in the morning and just got on the computer and worked for an hour and then gone back to sleep.” In the future, Thompson plans to continue exhibiting, curating, designing, taking photos and teaching the English that pays for it all. And maybe he’ll sneak in a couple hours of sleep.

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MUSIC & ARTS Edited by Elaine Ramirez (elaine@groovekorea.com)

Mime time!

Chuncheon Mime Fest is two-week rave with water fights, bonfires and mimes Story by Rebecca Lopez / Photos courtesy of Heather Evans and CIMF

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very May, the city of Chuncheon, Gangwon Province, transforms from the dak galbi capital of Korea to the host of the Chuncheon International Mime Festival — a vibrant and mythical setting for the performing arts, and a battlefield for the gods of fire and water. The festival, now in its 26th year, attracts hundreds of local and international performers and audience members with fantastic annual events, water fights, a bonfire and, yes, mimes. Legend has it that the gods of fire and water descend upon Chuncheon for a yearly bout. This battle takes place on the first day, featuring a massive water fight called “Ah! Surajang.” Hundreds of people donned in raincoats and carrying squirt guns cram into the city center to wait for party trucks loaded with tubs of water and balloons to line the streets, signaling the start of a very eventful weekend. It’s a fantastic scene as audience and performers fuse with music and drums, while sprays of confetti, fire and water accent the spectacle. The first Korean Mime Festival was established in Seoul by current festival director Yoo Jin-gyu in 1989. The following year, it moved to Chuncheon, where it has become an internationally recognized event in the mime world, next to London’s International Mime Festival and France’s Mimos: Festival International Du Mime DE PÉRIGUEUX. While rooted in modern European-style mime, the CIMF sets itself

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apart from the European counterparts with its carnival atmosphere and a focus on local mythology, body and movement. CIMF has since evolved into what Yoo describes as “nanjang or madness: all-night enjoyment with the spirit and vibrancy of traditional Korean communal festivities.” Performances include mime, nanjang, juggling, dance, music, martial arts, performance art, theater, media, installation art, puppetry and acrobatics. This “all-night enjoyment” manifests itself in the CIMF’s staples: Friday Night Madness and the Ggaebi Market, which are held during the festival’s last weekend. Friday Night Madness caters to the 19-and-over crowd with deviant and often sexually explicit performances. The Ggaebi Market, which begins early on Saturday with family-friendly performances, continues late into the night — “a crazy all-night rave that continues until 5 a.m. and finishes with a huge bonfire,” says Linda Gromally, last year’s coordinator. Patrons then burn 9,999 gonji (paper fish) in the hopes of sending the warriors for the gods of water home. Last year’s CIMF saw international performances from Argentina, Germany, Spain, Taiwan and Thailand, including a performance of “The Old King” by the Belgium ballet company Les Ballets C de la B. This year’s Chuncheon International Mime Fest runs May 25 to June 6.


Column by Dr. Limgwarn Kang

The new quarantine requirement for importing dogs & cats to Korea

Dr. Limgwarn Kang DVM

Microchip Implantation and Rabies Antibody Test -A microchip should be implanted into the animal’s body and the ID number should be stated in the veterinary health certificate issued by the Quarantine Authority. -Microchips implanted in cats and dogs must be ISO-compliant (ISO11784 and 11785 Standards). For any other chips, importers must bring their own microchip scanners. -The rabies-neutralizing antibody test must be administered by an internationally approved laboratory from the exporting country, from 30 days to 24 months prior to boarding, with a positive result equivalent to at least 0.5 IU/ml or higher. The test results should be stated in the veterinary health certificate issued by Quarantine Authority. -Dogs and cats younger than 90 days or originating from rabies-free countries do not require rabies-neutralizing antibody tests. Quarantine and Inspection All countries have different regulations and preparation periods to let pets from Korea into the country. See below and get it started at the right time. Otherwise, your pet might end up being quarantined. Japan, Australia and New Zealand Preparation period: 6-7 months before entering the country; Rabies Neutralizing Antibody Titer Test, specific parasite tests and import permits are needed, 180 days before departure. EU countries (except England, Ireland, Sweden and Malta) Preparation period: 3-4 months before entering the country; Rabies Neutralizing Antibody Titer Test is needed 90 days before departure. UAE, South Africa, China and England Preparation period: 1-2 months before entering the country; Specific tests for each country and import permits are required. USA and Canada Preparation period: 1 month before entering the country; Valid Rabies Vaccination, at least 30 days before the departure date. Countries that ONLY allow live animals in Manifested Cargo England, New Zealand, Australia, Hong Kong, UAE, South Africa, among others

Chuncheon International Mime Festival When May 25-June 6 Where Festival Theater Momzit, downtown Chuncheon Address Gangwon-do, Chuncheon-si, Hyoja1-dong, San 40-2 Website www.mimefestival.com/eng

c From Namchuncheon Station (Gyeongchun line), exit 1, take bus 9 to Yaksa Apartment. Go 100 meters toward Nambu Intersection and turn left. Go straight 200 meters to arrive at Festival Theater Momzit.

Korea Animal Transport(KAT) & Chungwha Animal Hospital (02) 792-7602 21-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul chungwha77@gmail.com j www.cwhospital.com

The Pet Hotel M 02-797-3040

j www.thepethotelm.com


MUSIC & ARTS Edited by Elaine Ramirez (elaine@groovekorea.com)

‘Sunday Girl’

Kalliope Lee’s kyopo novel explores pain, retribution and sex Interview by W.R. Pugsley

Sunday Girl By Kalliope Lee 296 pages Available at Amazon.com Kindle price: $4.99

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eoul, Korea, 1991. America is at war in Iraq. Kim Hak-sun has not yet broken the silence about her abuse as a comfort woman. Seoul is rapidly developing. A young woman comes back to the city of her birth, housing a spirit that has been molded by America but is still tied to Korea. She is to find herself and in the process finds a greater truth that transcends time. “Sunday Girl” is a journey through pain, sex, friendship and retribution, giving voice to the muted past, surrounded by the echoes of wars, enlightening the dark shame of countries and individuals. This is a novel full of cinematic vividness with a palpable soundtrack of ’80s music and the anthrophony of life. The perspective expressed is that of Sibyl, a Korean-American, and much of the sub-strata of the story revolves around her unique experiences as a kyopo in Korea; but anyone living in Korea can appreciate the observational humor and commentary sprinkled throughout. “Sunday Girl” is a dense, serious and literate work, while at the same time an approachable and lively story. A range of themes is touched on at different points, including freedom through trials and the overcoming of shame, justice and self-definition. It is a story grounded in reality yet also has elements of the fantastical. Groove Korea spoke with the author Kalliope Lee. Groove Korea: What led you to write this novel? Kalliope Lee: The impetus for writing “Sunday Girl” was the first time I heard about the comfort women. Their story resonated with me in so many ways, and I literally got chills and tremors — a sure sign that my soul had been shaken. The sense of injustice I experienced (as a child) felt bigger than me or the situation, as though there were ghosts inside me, past generations who were not able to speak of their suffering before they died and whose “han” had been awoken through the episode. This is the same feeling I got when I heard of the comfort women. And my inner crusader took up arms. What was the genesis of characters Sibyl and Jang Mee? Sibyl and Jang Mee evolved more slowly, but they are all tied to the nexus of shame. I discovered that the biggest thing holding me back from being true to my soul was my debilitating sense of shame. A

104 www.groovekorea.com / May 2014

‘Sunday Girl’ is a dense, serious and literate work, while at the same time an approachable and lively story.

culturally instilled sense of shame is what kept the comfort women mum about their experiences, sacrificing relief and healing of their trauma. And I was no different — shame had a stranglehold on me as well. You share some similarity to the main character, Sibyl, but what is your background? I was born in Seoul and immigrated to New York when I was 4. My parents are definitely old-school, but also have a maverick streak about them. They struck out and moved us to the suburbs in the North Shore of Long Island where there were very few Koreans. It was very white and wealthy. It sucked and I couldn’t wait to get away to a place where I would fit in and everyone would intuitively understand me. But wherever I went, I felt sorely let down. Nothing, however, rivaled the disappointment I felt when I first returned to Korea, which in retrospect I understand I’d idealized as some kind of Eden. What were your experiences in Korea like? The last thing I expected when I first visited Korea was the discrimination and labeling I felt as a Korean-American. It was more painful than any of the standard-fare ignorance or racism I endured growing up as an “outsider” in the States because I had such high expectations of being welcomed into the bosom of the homeland. And now? To be fair, Korean nationals seemed rather foreign to my Korean-American sensibilities as well, even though I was expecting an immediate affinity. I no longer concern myself with whether I’m Korean or how I’d be accepted or how I’d fit in. I’ve come to conclude that my true identity transcends any nationality. Writing “Sunday Girl” confirmed this firsthand because I experienced my characters — male, female, Korean, Japanese, what have you — speaking through me, and I felt deeply that I contained within myself so much more than who I am autobiographically. I refer to the notion of soul quite a bit in the novel, because I know experientially that we are all part of the world soul, the anima mundi, and that is underneath all the criss-crossing, arbitrary categories of identity, who we are in essence.


Ro ck int o sp rin g S e o u l ’ s f av o r i t e e x pat f e s t i va l s e t f o r M ay 1 6 — 1 8

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he HBC May festival is the definitive expat music festival of the spring/summer, and is the largest independent artist showcase in Korea. This year’s lineup features 100 live acts in 16 independent venues, spanning from Haebangchon to neighboring Gyeongnidan in Yongsan-gu. The festival began in 2006 as an opportunity for expat musicians in the city to perform to larger and often unobtainable crowds. It was the brainchild of two local musicians, Lance Reegan-Diehl and James Gaynor. It was around this time that Reegan-Diehl started the DEELEBOB Music Company, and he continues to be the central organizer of the festival. Every year it gets bigger and better. Although the fest is now a staple of the local economy, it has experienced its fair share of ups and downs: a lack of performers and enthusiasm for the second winter festival in December 2006, a cordon of riot policemen lining the main street in Haebangchon to allow traffic through, and the threat from local authorities to close the festival down in 2012. If anything, the speed bumps have been a testament to the organizers’ dedication to keep the party going. The small street where the action happens is a famous local expat hangout, and the neighborhood was popularized when MBC and SBS showcased certain restaurants and the unique culture of the area. Here, many small independent business owners sell their goods and ply their trade up until the weekend in May when tables are cleared away, space is made for musical equipment and posters are pinned to the doors. The festival has always adapted to the demands of both musicians and venues, and the size and scope of the festival have fluctuated through the years as a result. This year’s festival sees the return of regular venues VFW, Phillies, Orange Tree, Bonny’s Pizza Pub, FIX and Camarata Music, with many new spaces getting involved in the fun. Added to the list are Hungry Dog, Good To Go, Rabbit Hole, Genie Pub, 7ATE9, Thunderhorse Tavern, Southside Parlor, Craftworks, Magpie Brewing Co., Upper Deck, Bar Carmen and cigar bar BURN, which is supporting the jazzier side of May Fest. While many of the performers are small acoustic acts, there are now seven live band venues: Phillies Pub, Orange Tree, Camarata Music, Rabbit Hole, Thunderhorse Tavern, Southside Parlor and VFW Canteen. Here the music is loud and hard, buffered by their basement locations and soundproofing. Street-level acoustic performers will entertain the busy bars, while below ground a plethora of rock, alt-rock, funk, blues and R&B bands will keep the ambience vibrant until 1 a.m. Reegan-Diehl and Phillies Pub owner Scott Mayoh have once again met with the local authorities to bring caution to the streets. This is still not a street party, and the festival’s organizers stress keeping the music and the party inside the bars and helping the police keep the crowds and the traffic moving. The festival kicks off on May 16 with the music starting at 9 p.m. and lasting past midnight. Saturday the 17th is an entire day of music, from 2 p.m. to 1 a.m., across 16 venues. Sunday will see performances by singer-songwriters at Craftworks from 2 to 6 p.m., followed by the Blues Jam from Hangover at Phillies Pub from 7 to 9 p.m. Entry to the festival is free. Revelers can support the festival by buying a T-shirt for 10,000 won on the Haebangchon main street. This year the organizers will have a festival tent stocked with T-shirts, fliers, maps and other festival items.

More info c DEELEEBOB Music - HBC Festival

Seoul, Yongsan-gu, Sinheung-ro, 47-B1 For more information, contact Lance Reegan-Diehl at (070) 7538-4716 or sales@deeleebob.com.

j For more details, including an updated schedule and list of performers, visit www.hbcfest.com. Follow the festival on Facebook at facebook.com/HBCFest. LINEUP INCLUDES The Dukes of Heartbreak / Dara O’Siochain / Whatever that Means / Triptych / The 2 Guitars / Lance Reegan-Diehl Band / Velvet Hand Grenade / Danny Valiant / Yvon Malenfant / Diamond Randy Reno / The Studs Lonigan Experience / Kimchi Cowboys / DND / Zebrafish / Bad Moon / Johnny Red / EARL / Tampas Dusk / Glass Inspired / Band Minha / Dirty 30’s / Geoff Goodman / Jesper / Maggie’s Farm / Rachel Hill Trio / Buzzard Luck / The Cavalier / Jennifer Waescher / Eli Taylor / Diamond Dogs / Slippery Ginger / Sotto Gamba / Ragged Riders / Language of Shapes / Kite Flying Robot

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MUSIC & ARTS Edited by Emilee Jennings (Emilee@groovekorea.com)

rock n roll seoul

Crying Nut The Godfathers of Korean Punk Column by Sophie Boladeras / Photos courtesy of Crying Nut

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he five members of Crying Nut, Korea’s best-selling independent punk rock band, have been drinking, crying, fighting and, most prominently, making music together for 21 years. In a time when bands seem to change their members like they change their guitar strings, Crying Nut has remained solid thanks to strong foundations laid in youth. School friends Yoonsik Park, Kyungrok Han and twin brothers Sanghyuk and Sangmyun Lee formed Crying Nut in 1993. Their fifth member, Insoo Kim, joined the band in 1999. Crying Nut went on to gain unprecedented popularity and to forge a path for the growth of punk music and culture in Korea. No one else was doing anything like it when the quintet screamed onto stages around Seoul and into people’s hearts. Crying Nut hasn’t remained solely exclusive to punk. They have continually diversified their sound by incorporating a range of genres into their ev-

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er-popular songs. Their critically acclaimed latest album “Flaming Nuts” (2013) expands on their punk rock base by incorporating lively mariachi and Celtic-punk tracks into the mix. Crying Nut’s creative sound continues to attract new fans, and their live shows are unforgettable; the band’s vitality and onstage presence never fail to produce intense and charismatic performances. Audiences at Austin’s 2014 South by Southwest festival were recently treated to the band’s live exuberance, although the band had some obstacles to overcome before making it to their awaiting fans: The group spent two whole days at the embassy waiting to receive their performance visas, resulting in a delayed departure and the cancellation of two shows in California. Thankfully, however, they made it to Austin to rock the hipster festival and were able to play a few packed shows in San Antonio and Los Angeles as well. Groove Korea caught up with them upon their return to home soil.

Crying Nut Yoonsik Park Guitar and vocals Kyungrok Han a.k.a. Captain Rock Bass and vocals Sangmyun Lee Guitar Sanghyuk Lee Drums Insoo Kim Accordion and keyboard


Groove Korea: How did you find SXSW 2014 compared to 2012, described by one of you as “the most fun you’ve had since you were born”? Sangmyun Lee: In 2012 I was really excited about the festival. This year I was able to play it a bit cooler since I knew what to expect. SXSW 2014 went really well for us. Kim Insoo: We were able to play to more people this time around, which was cool. I was happier than last time because we had more opportunities to perform and meet more people. We were all able to make a lot of new friends this time as well. Kyungrok Han: I had a great time in 2012, and I had a great time at this year’s festival as well. Anywhere with beer and rock ‘n’ roll is heaven to me. What was your most memorable moment from SXSW 2014? Sangmyun Lee: I feel like I should say it was our official showcase as part of the K-Pop Night Out concert at Elysium. But honestly, I think our last performance in Austin was my most memorable moment. It was an unofficial daytime gig at a party called Freddie Steady’s 14th Annual Frontier a Go Go Rock & Roll Hootenanny. We played in a small record store called Antone’s Records and it was a lot of fun! Han: Playing in front of a packed room at the K-Pop Night Out show was great, but I also think our set inside Antone’s Records was my favorite show we did. It was unusual for us to play at a record shop, and that made it really cool and memorable. Plus the audience was very passionate and all seemed to really love music. How did you find the American crowds? Han: All the crowds we played for were fantastic. Everyone was really kind and seemed to really enjoy themselves at our gigs. People were dancing, smiling and cheering while we played. There were even a few girls that came to all of our shows in the U.S. They saw us every time we played in Austin during SXSW and then watched us play in San Antonio and Los Angeles too. We were incredibly touched by this. What was on your set list? What songs garnered the best reception from the crowds? Sangmyun Lee: Our set lists changed during all of our gigs at SXSW. We played some of our popular older songs like “Luxembourg,” “Let’s Drink” and “Speed Up Losers,” along with lots of songs from our newest album, “Flaming Nuts.” Han: For our newer material, I think “Summer” went over well in Texas. And “Lego” was fun for people to sing along to. Did you get the chance to see many other bands perform? Han: We watched The Woggles play, and we all loved them. They played with tons of energy and never seemed to get tired. They definitely have

great rock ‘n’ roll spirits. Kim: I watched some Mexican acts play. They were all awesome. I really loved Mon Laferta and Troker. I heard Lady Gaga showed up at one of the gigs. Did you see her? Kim: She came to the K-Pop Night Out showcase, but I didn’t see her. I think she came after we finished playing. Or maybe she was there when we played and just didn’t say hi to us? If she’s around again, she should come introduce herself and have a drink with us. We’re all good guys! When I first heard of Crying Nut, the name made me think of something that only men possess. But isn’t it true that the name has something to do with walnut cakes? Han: Yes. The name came from something that happened to us when we were in middle school. We were waiting for the bus to come, but then spent all our money on walnut cakes and didn’t have the bus fare anymore. So we had to walk all the way home crying. We didn’t know the right word for “walnut” so we just used “nut” instead when making the name. Sangmyun Lee: But we like it when people associate crazy things or men’s body parts with our name. It’s funny and I think those are usually much better meanings for the name Crying Nut! You have been referred to as the Godfathers of Korean punk, as a Korean punk institution, veterans of the punk movement and pioneers of Korea’s punk rock scene. Which slice of praise do you find most preferable? Kim: We just like to be called Crying Nut. It’s simple and it’s who we are. I heard that you’ve compared the group members to bibimbap. Why do you think you are such a good combination of flavors? Han: We all have our own personalities and have different tastes in music. We’ve all learned to respect one another’s musical tastes. We’re all different people, but when you combine us together we make something good that many people enjoy. If you could go on tour with any band, which one would it be? Sangmyun Lee: Any rock band that is made up of great drinkers. Han: Crayon Pop. Kim: Motörhead or The Rolling Stones. What do you have planned for the rest of 2014? Han: We’ll be playing lots of gigs and working on some new songs. And I always say that I’m going to study English after we finish a U.S. tour, so I’m going to study English — hopefully!

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MUSIC & ARTS Edited by Jenny Na (jenny@groovekorea.com)

AT THE BOX OFFICE THE BIG SCREEN Preview by Dean Crawford

GrooveCast

X-Men: Days of Future Past Directed by Bryan Singer

May

22

Action / Adventure / Fantasy 123 minutes

It’s incredible to think that not so long ago, superhero films were something of a joke. Look at the infamous “The Fantastic Four” (1994) by Roger Corman; a film only made so the rights to the franchise wouldn’t be lost, it was so bad that producer Avi Arad ended up buying it so it would never be seen. Fast-forward six years to the release of Bryan Singer’s “X-Men” (2000), a movie that almost single-handedly changed the perception of superhero films forever. In addition to being positively received by critics and making close to $300 million at box offices worldwide, it also showed studios the potential in the genre if the material was treated properly. I think it’s fair to say that an absence of “X-Men” would have kept “The Avengers” (2012) from ever getting off the ground. Singer continued where he left off in “X2” (2003), but the franchise almost died after Brett Ratner’s “X-Men: The Last Stand” (2006). Matthew Vaughn picked up the pieces for the fourth and, in my opinion, best film in the series, “X-Men: First Class” (2011), which

Godzilla Directed by Gareth Edwards

May

15

GrooveCast host Chance Dorland and columnist Dean Crawford talk movies. Check out the podcast at groovekorea.com.

was set in the ’70s and showed the humble beginnings of the world’s favorite mutants. Now, three years later, the first class is returning, but unfortunately Vaughn is not. Singer has returned to direct “X-Men: Days of Future Past.” The follow up to “First Class” sees Professor X, Magneto et al in a post-apocalyptic world where mutants are losing a war with humans and are being hunted and killed. Professor X has no choice but to send Wolverine back in time to find the younger Charles Xavier to force him and Magneto to work together to stop the war from ever taking place. The cast is too huge to list here. Just know that it seems like all of the X-Men are returning for at least a cameo. You would have thought that Singer returning to direct would be a good thing, but with his last two big-budget efforts being “Superman Returns” (2006) and “Jack the Giant Killer” (2013), some (well, me) are wondering if he still has what it takes to make a good “X-Men” film. We will find out on May 22.

Action / Adventure / Sci-fi 123 minutes

If you had asked me six months ago if I was brief glimpse of the beast. In short, it did just excited to see the new “Godzilla” remake/re- enough to whet the appetite. As for the film’s synopsis, according to boot/rehash/whatever, the answer would have been a resounding “No!” Roland Emmerich’s Legendary.com, “Godzilla” will be “an epic 1998 version was widely panned by critics and rebirth to Toho’s iconic Godzilla.” Huh? Sold. audiences alike, and its only redeeming fac- Oh, you want more? Well, how about pitting tor was the soundtrack. It seemed to me that “the world’s most famous monster against “Godzilla” (1954) was a relic that belonged in malevolent creatures who, bolstered by the past and only die-hard fans had any inter- humanity’s scientific arrogance, threaten our very existence.” Yes? Yes! est in seeing another film. From the premise, I’m getting a very strong However, a few months back Warner Brothers released one of the best trailers I’ve seen “Pacific Rim” (2013) vibe, which was enjoyable in a long while and, to my surprise, I couldn’t enough, mainly due to the visuals rather than wait to see Gareth Edwards’ reimagining of the story. But the director of “Godzilla” is Gareth Edwards. His last film was the surprise “Godzilla.” I know the whole point of a trailer is to sell hit “Monsters” (2010), which, despite its name, the film. (How many times have we been featured very few monsters at all. The film’s lulled into a false sense of security with a main focus was how humans interact during a good-looking trailer? “Sucker Punch” (2011), crisis. With his new offering featuring the likes anyone?) But this trailer was really good — it of Bryan Cranston, Aaron Taylor-Johnson and showed so much without giving anything away. Elizabeth Olsen to add drama to what appears It presented a post-apocalyptic world full of to be an action-heavy epic, I think we could be death and destruction, but it wasn’t loud and on to a winner! it wasn’t totally action packed, save for a

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KOREaN DVD CORNER THE SMALL SCREEN Review by Dean Crawford

Rated

R

In present-day Hong Kong, a container full of illegal immigrants is about to be shipped to Korea. One of the passengers is sick but assures his handler he is well enough to continue with the journey. Once the container arrives in Bundang, the traffickers discover that all but one of the passengers are dead. He escapes, but the traffickers have bigger things to worry about, as they suddenly become sick themselves. It’s not long before the virus spreads and thousands of people are infected. In-hae (Soo Ae), a doctor at a local hospital, ends up in one of the city’s many camps for the sick along with firefighter Ji-gu (Jang Hyeok). As the situation gets worse and the government’s solution to dealing with the infected becomes more and more extreme, In-hae takes it upon herself to find a cure for the virus so she can save her daughter, and potentially the rest of the country. With close-ups of people sneezing and slow motion shots of spit flying into mouths, the film reminded me of a public service announcement I saw as a child declaring “coughs and

Action / Drama / Sci-fi 121 minutes

(감기) Directed by Kim Seong-su

sneezes spread diseases.” A little dramatic, perhaps, but I don’t doubt for a second that the situation presented in “The Flu” (2013) could really happen. How many times have you shared a bowl of kimchi jjigae in a restaurant with several friends? Or even worse, how many times has a random person coughed into your face on the Seoul subway? Forget Kim Jong-un’s nukes — ­ all he would need to do if he really wanted to take over the South would be to send in a double agent with a cold during flu season. “The Flu” does have its moments, particularly in the way the infected try to force politicians’ hands into giving them the help they need. But the film is overacted and uses unnecessary comedy in the early stages, meaning the transition from slapstick comedy to serious drama never really feels believable. A decent effort, but not in the same league as films like Steven Soderbergh’s “Side Effects” (2013) or even the first segment of Korea’s own “Doomsday Book” (2012).

Rated

R

Ji-yoon (Lee Si-yeong) is a recluse who often has trouble distinguishing between fantasy and reality. The only contact she has with the outside world is through her psychiatrist, who tries to make sense of the strange things she sees. These visions, however, have made Jiyoon famous, as she uses them in her popular webtoon. Days before the release of her latest work, things become complicated as several of the grizzly murders she’s depicted on her computer screen start happening exactly as they were written. First comes the grisly murder of the manager of her webtoon series, whose past is revealed to be a bit spotty. Then, a news announcer is electrocuted, just as Ji-yoon predicted. And finally, the local morgue owner, who himself has several large skeletons in his closet, is brutally murdered by something not of this world. While the police initially presume the first two deaths are suicides, they start to piece together these strange coincidences, theorize

The Flu

Crime / Horror / Thriller 104 minutes

Killer Toon (더 웹툰) Directed by Kim Yong-gyun

that Ji-yoon is acting out her gruesome stories and begin to suspect that she’s involved in the murders. As one might expect, director Kim Yong-gyun takes inspiration from classics such as the “Juon” series (1998-2014) and “Ring” (1998). I mean, what Asian horror film is complete without a pale ghostly lady in white with black hair? But like most K-horror films, the first hour of “Killer Toon” (2013) is filled with some good scares and jumps, while the second hour has you trying to work out who the evil spirit actually is and what connection it has to our main characters. I don’t think anyone will be too shocked when any of the predictable plot twists are revealed, but it’s an enjoyable enough ride watching them take place. The film was a huge success for a horror film at the box office, but “Killer Toon” is more in line with lower end K-horror films like “The Cat” (2011) and “APT” (2006) than classics like “A Tale of Two Sisters” (2003).

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COMMUNITY Edited by Jenny Na (jenny@groovekorea.com)

Expat swimmer gets in deep for anti-finning campaign

One for the sharks Story by Ian Henderson / Photos by Ayesha Cantrell

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he had always dreamed of swimming across the English Channel, but the bitter reality of adult life proved that this was but a childhood fancy — it’s way too cold. So instead, Gene (pronounced Jinay) Giraudeau will have to settle for a 43-kilometer stretch between two islands in Thailand, which is actually 7 kilometers wider than the Channel. Before you start seeking professional help for our dear heroine, please be aware this bizarre feat is being done out of compassion, not lunacy. The upcoming swim is actually called a “Finathon,” and is intended to garner both funds and awareness of the act of shark finning, which is having devastating effects on ocean life. It is part of a larger campaign by Project Aware, a group dedicated to the stewardship of the seas and marine ecosystems.

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Giraudeau is a South African who has been living and teaching in Korea for several years. She started swimming at the age of three, and participated in her first race at seven, going on to national competitions. Her love of the water has grown and expressed itself in many of her pursuits over the years. She’s a certified Divemaster and underwater videographer, and participates in races all over Korea, including such unpalatable activities as swimming across the Han River. At one point Giraudeau lived on the island of Koh Tao in Thailand, where the notion of swimming around the 23-kilometer island took root in her head and became an obsession. It eventually manifested into reality, resulting in a 9-hour, 16-minute swim and making her the first person in history to circumnavigate the island. Later she organized a relay race along

‘I’m scared every day about it, but I just try to use that fear to push me to train harder and harder.’ —Gene Giraudeau the same track, raising $5,000 for the cause. This time she is only trying to raise $3,000, but she’s set her sights on something bigger — the 43-kilometer distance between Koh Phangan and Koh Tao. At 3 kilometers an hour, it is estimated to take 14 hours of uninterrupted swimming, but she’s allowing 16 hours to compensate for currents and waves. At the heart of Finathon is a cause near and dear to anyone who loves the seas. Recent estimates are that the shark population has


been reduced by 80 percent over the past 10 years. This has mostly been done through a combination of two unnecessary acts: firstly, the sharks being caught accidentally in trawling nets, and secondly, their being finned for soups, which are used in some traditional Asian cuisines for their supposedly medicinal benefits (probably good for men’s stamina). These numbers aren’t expected to rebound anytime soon either, as sharks mature later in life and don’t have many offspring. The ramifications are huge, as sharks are scientifically known as apex predators, or in layman’s terms, “badasses of the deep.” The entire food chain is thrown into disarray by their removal. Oddly enough, Giraudeau isn’t worried about sharks on her upcoming campaign for them, as there aren’t that many dangerous species in that location; but floating schools of jellyfish do pose a serious concern. She will have one of her teammates, Wilco Both, ahead of her in a kayak for navigation purposes, plus a boat crew following her for both logistical support and possible emergency assistance. This will be the first time anyone has ever done this particular swim. For the feat to be recognized as a marathon swim, she has to follow the open water swimming rules, which means she is not allowed to touch the boat or stop treading water at any time. She also has to eat and drink while treading water. Every half hour she will consume a protein bar and some coconut water. The training regimen has been intensive.

Giraudeau swims between 3 and 10 kilometers every day at the Namsan athletic center, with her training partner, Mark, joining in several times a week. She consults regularly with her coach in South Africa and with her friend Ayesha Cantrell, who will be running the boat crew. Along with Both, Cantrell also coordinated the relay race around Koh Tao. Being refreshingly honest, Giraudeau admits, “I’m scared every day about it, but I just try to use that fear to push me to train harder and harder.” Besides jellyfish, one of the biggest obstacles she expects to encounter is the mental toll of the ordeal. The plan is to start at 2 a.m., in complete darkness, so she can end the swim in the sunlight of late afternoon, which will be easier on her psychologically. The team is to arrive in Thailand on May 16. They will then begin waiting for the perfect conditions before setting off and have allowed themselves three weeks for the forces to align. As if you need a reason to get involved with such a great cause, bear in mind that the heartless bastards who are driving these sharks to extinction usually cut just the fins off before dumping them back into the water, leaving the animals to die an agonizing death. Those are the kinds of forces Giraudeau and Project Aware are up against. Asked about future plans, it doesn’t like seem she’ll be slowing down anytime soon. “Maybe I’ll try swimming from Jeju Island to mainland Korea next. We’ll see.”

‘Maybe I’ll try swimming from Jeju Island to mainland Korea next. We’ll see.’ —Gene Giraudeau

More info j To donate to the cause, go to finathon.org/masterdivers. For more information, email finathon2014@gmail.com.

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Photos by Tammy Chou / Interview by Dylan Goldby

Slowing down in scenic Goseong

CAPTURING KOREA Edited by Jenny Na (jenny@groovekorea.com)


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CAPTURING KOREA Edited by Jenny Na (jenny@groovekorea.com)



CAPTURING KOREA Edited by Jenny Na (jenny@groovekorea.com)

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T

ammy Chou is a Toronto native whose life had to slow down a bit when her teaching career sent her to the scenic rural county of Goseong, Gangwon Province, on Korea’s east coast. She has a background in urban planning that informs her photography, and shoots primarily on film.

Groove Korea: Give us an introduction to yourself as a person and as a photographer. Tammy Chou: I picked up photography as a hobby when I was a teenager, experimenting with various toy cameras, disposables, point-and-shoots and eventually SLRs (both digital and film). I have a background in urban planning, which lends itself to my interest in capturing streetscapes, buildings, nature and the peculiarities of everyday life. I take photos as a way to document something that, at some point, had briefly inspired me. When so many aim for the big cities, what made you choose Goseong? In short, I didn’t choose my placement, but was pleasantly surprised with the outcome. Goseong is a beautiful coastal village in the northeastern corner of the peninsula. It’s surrounded by beaches, the East Sea and Seoraksan. Coming from Toronto (the biggest city in Canada), living in Goseong was a stark contrast. It allowed me to slow down and appreciate my surroundings. There are two counties that share the same name in South Korea. Goseong County in Gangwon Province should not be confused with the more populous Goseong County in South Gyeongsang Province. I made the mistake in thinking I was placed there, first! You capture a fantastic small-town feel with these images. What are you looking for when you’re out shooting? Goseong is exactly that. It’s off the beaten path on the outskirts of Sokcho, another small, but well-traveled city. The population of Goseong has been decreasing every year — it has lost over 60 percent of its residents since 2001. In my photos I wanted to capture the feeling of a declining, quaint seaside village. Beaches, farms, long roads and pensions dominate the landscape. While it is busier on the weekends when people stay overnight at the pensions, during the weekdays it is essentially a ghost town. You’re shooting on all film. How does that differ from digital for you? I’m the type of person who likes to use my products until they give up on me, which meant I was always behind in the digital world. Ever since I got into film, I never got out of it. There’s an aesthetic achieved with film that digital cannot replicate. It challenges me to think critically about the photo I want to shoot, given that each roll has a limited amount of exposures. The anticipation and wait period between shooting and developing is another element that sets film apart from digital, making the final results much more deserving. If someone was heading out to Goseong, what would you recommend seeing or doing? Goseong would be a great weekend getaway for those who want a quiet escape from the city. As previously mentioned, there are lots of pensions in the area, and quite a number of them are well designed and architecturally impressive. The area is known for its beaches, mountains, seafood and its proximity to North Korea. While there, it would be worth taking a trip up to the DMZ, where you can catch a glimpse of North Korea’s Geumgangsan at the Goseong Unification Observatory. The best way to get to Goseong from Seoul is to take a bus to Sokcho from Dong Seoul Bus Terminal at Gangbyeon Station, and then take local bus 1 or 1-1 to Goseong.

117


LISTINGS

Edited by Sean Choi (sean@groovekorea.com)

EMBASSIES American Embassy (02) 397-4114 • 188 Sejong-daero, Jongnogu, Seoul Canadian Embassy (02) 3783-6000 • (613) 996-8885 (Emergency Operations Center) Jeongdong-gil (Jeongdong) 21, Jung-gu, Seoul British Embassy (02) 3210-5500 • Sejong-daero 19-gil 24, Jung-gu, Seoul Australian Embassy (02) 2003-0100 • 19th fl, Kyobo bldg., 1 Jongno 1-ga, Jongno-gu, Seoul Philippine Embassy (02) 796-7387~9 • 5-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Spanish Embassy (02) 794-3581 • 726-52 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul French Embassy (02) 3149-4300 • 30 Hap-dong, Seodaemungu, Seoul

TRAVEL AGENTS Fides Travel (02) 755 5470 • fidestravel.co.kr Prime Travel (02) 6739 3570 Shoe String Travel (02) 333 4151 • shoestring.kr/eng/abo01.htm Soho Travel (02) 322 1713 • sohoholiday.com Top Travel Service (02) 737 4289 • toptravel.co.kr/eng Unique Travel (02) 792 0606

DOMESTIC TOURS Adventure Korea (010) 4242-5536 • adventurekorea.com Discover Korea (02) 398-6571 • discoverkoreatour.com/en

Explore Korea sonyaexplorekorea.com Joy Leisure Service (02) 2307-8642 • joyleisures.com Panmunjom Travel Center (02) 771-5593 • koreadmztour.com Seoul City Tour (02) 774-3345 • seoulcitytour.net Tour DMZ (02) 755-0073 • www.tourdmz.com Travel Pants Korea (010) 9961 5765 • travelpantskorea.com

HOTELS & RESORTS Banyan Tree Club & Spa Seoul (02) 2250-8080 • San 5-5, Jangchung-dong 2-ga Jung-gu, Seoul Novotel Ambassador Gangnam (02) 567-1101 • 603 Yeoksam 1-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Grand Hilton Seoul (02) 3216-5656 • 353 Yeonhui-ro, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul Somerset Palace Seoul (02) 6730-8888 • 85 Susong-dong, Jongnogu, Seoul Park Hyatt Seoul (02) 2016-1234 • 606 Teheran-ro, Gangnamgu, Seoul Lotte Hotel Busan (051) 810-1000 • 772 Gaya-daero, Busanjin-gu, Busan Park Hyatt Busan (051) 990-1234 • 51, Marine City 1-ro, Haeundae-gu, Busan 612-824, Korea

EMERGENCY MEDICAL CENTERS Gangnam St-Mary’s Hospital 1588-1511 • 222 Banpo-daero, Seocho-gu, Seoul Yonsei Severance Hospital (Sinchon) (02) 2227-7777 • 50 Yonsei-ro, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul Seoul National University Hospital 1339 • 28-2 Yeongeon-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul

Seoul Samsung Hospital 1599-3114 • 50 Irwon-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Asan Medical Center 1688-7575 • 88 Olympic-ro 43-gil, Songpagu, Seoul Keimyung University Dongsan Medical Center (053) 250-7167 (7177 / 7187) • 56 Dalseongro, Jung-gu, Daegu

Airlines Korean Air 1588-2001 Asiana Airlines 1588-8000 Lufthansa (02) 2019-0180 Garuda Indonesia (02) 773-2092 • garuda-indonesia.co.kr Jeju Air 1599-1500 T’way Air 1688-8686

Eton House Prep (02) 749-8011 • 68-3 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul A unique British style Prep School for children of all nationalities from 2-13 years of age. A broad, challenging and innovative curriculum preparing pupils for senior school and life beyond. www.etonhouseprep.com Branksome Hall Asia (02) 6456-8405 • Daejung-eup, Seogipo-si, Jeju Island Daegu Intl. School (053) 980-2100 • 1555 Bongmu-dong, Donggu, Daegu

Dulwich College Seoul (02) 3015-8500 • 6 Sinbanpo-ro 15-gil, Seocho-gu, Seoul admissions@dulwich-seoul.kr www.dulwich-seoul.kr The curriculum from Toddler to IGCSE (ages 2 years to 16 years) follows the best practice of the Early Years Foundation Stage Framework and English National Curriculum enhanced for an international setting.

Jin Air 1600-6200 British Airways (02) 774-5511

DE T U R

P O N S MU

NDO

Cathay Pacific Airways (02) 311-2700

AMUSEMENT PARKS

Delta Airlines (02) 754-1921

Everland Resort (031) 320-5000 • 310 Jeondae-ri, Pogok-eup, Cheoin-gu, Yongin-si, Gyeonggi-do

Emirates Airlines (02) 2022-8400

FAMILY & KIDS

Lotte World (02) 411-2000 0 • 240 Olympic-ro, Songpagu, Seoul

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS

Pororo Park (D-Cube city) 1661-6340 • 360-51 Sindorim-dong, Guro-gu, Seoul

Yongsan Intl. School (02) 797-5104 • San 10-213 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

Children’s Grand Park (zoo) (02) 450-9311 • 216 Neungdong-ro, Gwangjin-gu, Seoul

Seoul Intl. School 031-750-1200 • 388-14 Bokjeong-dong, Sujeong-gu, Seongnam, Gyeonggi-do

Seoul Zoo (02) 500-7338 • 159-1 Makgye-dong, Gwacheon-si, Gyeonggi-do

070-7504-8090

Oriental massage spa in Itaewon at a reasonable price.

3rd fl. 124-7 Itaewon 1-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul 12pm-9pm


BOOKSTORES

UROLOGY & OB

What The Book (02) 797-2342 • 176-2, Itaewon 1-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul • whatthebook.com Located in Itaewon, this English bookstore has new books, used books and children’s books.

Tower Urology (02) 2277-6699 •5th fl. 119 Jongno 3-ga, Jongno-gu, Seoul

Kim & Johnson 1566-0549 • B2 fl-1317-20 Seocho-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul

HEALTH DENTAL CLINICS

UPENNIVY dental (02) 797-7784 • 300-26 Ichon 1-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Mir Dental (053) 212-1000 • 149-132 Samdeok-dong 2-ga, Jung-gu, Daegu Esarang Dental Clinic (02) 701-2199 • 26-16 Singongdeok-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul Chungdam UPENN dental (02) 548-7316 • 131-20 Cheongdam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul SKIN CLINICS TengTeng skin (02) 337-4066 • 10th floor, First avenue Building, Nonhyeon 1-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul If you have a skin problem, Dr. Julius Jon will take good care of you. English is spoken. Nova Skin (02) 563-7997 • 2 floor A Tower, 822-1, Yeoksam 1-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul ORIENTAL MEDICINE Lee Moon Won Korean Medicine Clinic (02) 511-1079 • 3rd fl., Lee&You bldg., 69-5 Chungdam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Specializes in hair loss and scalp problems and offers comprehensive treatments and services including aesthetic and hair care products. Soseng Clinic (02) 2253-8051• 368-90 Sindang 3-dong, Jung-gu, Seoul Yaksan Obesity Clinic (02) 582-4246 • 1364-7, Seocho 2-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul www.dryaksan.com

Yeon & Nature OB GYN (02) 518-1300 •10th - 11th Floor Teun Teun Hospital 71-3 (Yeongdongdaero 713) Gangnam-gu, Cheongdam-dong, Seoul

MUSEUM & GALLERIES National Museum of Korea (02) 2077-9000 • 168-6 Yongsandong 6-ga, Yongsan-gu, Seoul The NMK offers educational programs on Korean history and culture in English and Korean. National Palace Museum of Korea (02) 3701-7500 • 12 Hyoja-ro, Jongno-gu, Seoul This museum has a program called ‘Experiencing Royal Culture’ designed for English teachers to help learn about Joseon royal culture. Seodaemun Museum of Natural History (02) 330-8899 • 141-52 Yeonhui-dong, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul Don’t know where to take your kids on weekends? This museum exhibits a snapshot of the world and animals. National Museum of Contemporary Art, Korea (02) 2188-6000 • 313 Gwangmyeong-ro, Gwacheon-si, Gyeonggi-do Leeum Samsung Museum of Art (02) 2014-6901• 747-18 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul 10:30 a.m.-6 p.m. Closed on Mondays, New Year’s Day, Lunar New Year and Chuseok holidays Kumho Museum (02) 720-5114 • 78 Sagan-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul 10 a.m.-6 p.m. Closed on Mondays Gallery Hyundai (02) 734-6111~3 • 22 Sagan-dong, Jongnogu, Seoul It’s the first specialized art gallery in Korea and accommodates contemporary arts. 10 a.m.-6 p.m. Closed on Mondays, New Year’s Day, Lunar New Year and Chuseok holidays

Plateau (02) 1577-7595 • 50 Taepyung-ro 2-ga, Jung-gu, Seoul 10 a.m.-6 p. m. Closed on Mondays. FITNESS National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art, Seoul Reebok Crossfit Sentinel (MMCA SEOUL) (02) 790-0801 • reebokcrossfitsentinel.com (02) 3701-9500 • 30 Samcheong-ro, Sogyeok-dong, World Gym Jongro-gu, Seoul Yeouido (02) 782-1003 Gangnam (02) 2052-0096 Daegu Art Museum Ilsan (031) 932-7010 (053) 790-3000 • 374 Samdeok-dong, Busan (051) 758-5554 Suseong-gu, Daegu • www.asiaworldgym.com Art space for local culture presenting Daegu’s contemporary fine arts and internationally Body & Seoul 010-6397-2662 • www.seoulmartialarts.com renowned artists.

This month

May 29 [Thu]

at On The Border ‘ITAEWON’

7-9 P.M.₩35,000

V.A.T included

You can get 4 glasses of different OTB best drink, Endless draft beer and Mexican finger food.

For more infornation & reservations 02-792-0682


Restaurants AMERICAN & BRUNCH

JAPANESE

Jo’s Basket Grill & Dining (02) 744-0701 • 31-37 Dongsoong-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul

Jin Donburi (02) 2235 1123 • 103-9 Jeodong 1-ga, Junggu, Seoul The chef here trained in Japan and serves an authentic Japanese-style donburi (donkatsu over rice) at an affordable price. Katsudon goes for 6,000 won.

KOREAN & BBQ Small Happiness in the Garden (02) 975-3429 • 28-3 Jeodong 1-ga, Jung-gu, Seoul

DONKATSU

Jang Sa Rang (02) 546-9994 • 624-47 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul The menu at this traditional Korean restaurant ranges from classic kimchi pancakes and stone pot rice to an array of meats and veggies.

Dr. Oh’s King-size Donkatsu / O Baksane Donkatsu (02) 3673 5730 • 131-32 Seongbuk-dong, Seongbuk-gu, Seoul The place serves donkatsu the size of a car wheel. The restaurant dares you to finish it in one sitting.

Ondal (02) 450-4518 • 177 Walkerhill-ro, Gwangjin-gu, Seoul Looking to impress a date or a business partner? Head to the premier traditional Korean restaurant in Seoul.

Myeongdong Donkatsu (02) 776 5300 • 59-13 Myeong-dong 1-ga, Jung-gu, Seoul This is the most popular and oldest Japanese-style donkatsu restaurant in Myeong-dong. Try the wasabi.

Hadongkwan (02) 776-5656 • 10-4 Myungdong 1-ga, Jung-gu, Seoul This place simply has the best gomtang (beef soup) in Seoul.

Namsan Donkatsu (02) 777-7929 • 49-24 Namsandong 2-ga, Jung-gu, Seoul Since 1992, this casual Korean-style donkatsu restaurant has been a favorite of Namsan hikers and taxi drivers.

Two Plus (02) 515 5712 • B1 fl. 532-9 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Served here is a high-quality beef loin at a reasonable price. Tosokchon (Samgyetang) (02) 737 7444 • 85-1 Chebu-dong, Jongnogu, Seoul A popular Korean-style chicken soup with ginseng is popular at this place. Former presidents enjoyed this restaurant. A soup costs just 15,000 won.

INTERNATIONAL Battered Sole (02) 322-8101 • 52-23 Changcheon-dong, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul Battered Sole is a relative newcomer, but they serve up some of the best fish and chips in Korea. This is the real deal. Simply India (02) 744 6333• 1-79 Dongsung-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul

THAI & VIETNAMESE

VEGETARIAN

Pho Hoa (02) 792-8866 • 737-4, Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

So True (02) 549 7288 • Jinseong Building, 58-6 Samseong-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul. blog.naver.com/julieintoday

ITALIAN & FRENCH Pizza Hill (02) 450-4699 • 177 Walkerhill-ro, Gwangjingu, Seoul The first restaurant to serve pizza in Korea. MEXICAN & TEX-MEX Dos Tacos (Gangnam) (02) 593-5904 • 104 Dessian Luv, 1303-35 Seocho-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul The best and largest taco franchise in Korea; try out their shrimp potato burrito. Grill5taco (02) 515-5549 • 519-13 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

Sanchon (02) 735 0312 • 14 Gwanghun-dong, Jongnogu, Seoul www.sanchon.com Veggie Holic 070 4114 0458 • 204-59 Donggyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul www.veggieholic.co.kr March Rabbit (02) 3444-4514 • 560 Sinsa-dong, Gangnamgu, Seoul Daegu 5th Lounge (053) 764-3579 • 207-10 Doosan-dong, Suseong-gu, Daegu This fabulous lounge does just about everything right. If you’re in search of space for private parties, this is the place.


Night clubS G’day (American & Brunch) (053) 746-1217 • 980-9 Suseongdong 4-ga, Suseong-gu, Daegu This Aussie brunch cafe serves the best brunch in Daegu at the best price. www.facebook.com/CafeGday The Paris (Italian & French) (053) 763-8998 • 207-10 Doosan-dong, Suseong-gu, Daegu This place offers fine dining in one of the few authentic French restaurants in town. Dos Tacos (Mexican & Tex-Mex) (053) 255-4885 • 34-4 Dongsung-ro 2-ga, Jung-gu, Daegu

Italy & Italy (Italian / French) (053) 423- 5122 • 22-2, Samdeok-dong 1-ga, Jung-gu, Daegu

The Pho (Vietnamese) (051) 256-8055 • Saeabusan town, Sinchangdong 1-ga, Jung-gu, Busan

La Luce (European) (053) 255-7614 • 40-63 Daebong-dong, Jung-gu, Daegu

The Grill On The Beach (Pub) (051) 731-9799 • B1 fl. Sea star bldg., 1417-2 Jung 1-dong, Haeundae-gu, Busan This submarine-themed pub carries international beer and a wide selection of wine.

Ariana Boccaccio Hotel Brau (Buffet) (051) 767-7913 • 200-1, Dusan-dong, Suseong-gu, Daegu Thursday Party (Bar) 21-23 Samdeok-dong 1-ga, Jung-gu, Daegu Busan

Pan Asia (International) (053) 287-7940 • 2 fl., 21-9 Samdeok-dong, Jung-gu, Daegu

Wolfhound (Haeundae, Busan) (051) 746-7913 • 1359 Woo 1-dong, Haeundae-gu, Busan

South St. (American) (053) 471-7867 • 664-10 Bongdeok 3-dong, Nam-gu, Daegu

Rock N Roll (Bar) • 2 fl, 56-5, Daeyeon 3-dong, Nam-gu, Busan

Bagel Doctor (Café) (053) 421-6636 • Samdeokdong 2-ga, Jung-gu, Daegu Miyako (Japanese) (053) 761-5555 • 402-5 Sang-dong, Suseong-gu, Daegu Beyond Factory (Italian/café) (053) 255-7614 • 40-63 Daebong-dong, Jung-gu, Daegu

Wolfhound (Irish Pub) (051) 746-7913 • 2 fl, 1359, U 1-dong, Haeundae-gu, Busan Fuzzy Navel (Mexican Pub) (051) 754- 6349 • 178-13, Millak-dong, Suyeong-gu, Busan Farmer’s Hamburger (American)(051) 244-5706 • 35-1 Daechungdong 2-ga, Junggu, Busan

Paniere (Café) (051) 817-8212 • 225-1 Bujeon-dong, Jin-gu, Busan The European-style brunch restaurant/café serves fresh fruit juice and sandwiches.

DRINKS BEER AND COCKTAILS Big Rock (02) 539-6650 • B1 818-8, Yeoksam 1-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul This place imports premium beer from Alberta. Its comfortable atmosphere and huge space is perfect for just about every occasion. Once in a Blue Moon (02) 549. 5490 • 85-1 Chungdam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul A live jazz club Seoul that hosts renowned musicians from Korea and around the world.

Octagon •175-2 Nonhyeon-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Cocoon •364-26 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul Eden •Ritz Carlton 602 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnamgu, Seoul Elune •1408-5 Jung 1-dong, Haeundae-gu, Busan Mass •1306-8 Seocho 4-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul

Massage, Spa & Beauty Lucy Hair (02) 325-2225 • 2 floor, 30-10, Chandcheondong, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul Look your best effortlessly with the help of Lucy. Her internationally trained hair stylists treat your locks with the best hair products in a modern and cozy environment.


DISTRACTIONS

COMICS

122 www.groovekorea.com / May 2014


Games Crosswords - Sudoku

Easy

Medium

Across 1. Tobacco wad 5. Doll’s word 9 Jaws 14. Tresses 15. Snooty one 16. Ziegfeld offering 17. Disclosure 19. Puccini’s province 20. Former Pacific alliance 21. Low card 23. “Dracula” author Stoker 24. Miss Havisham’s adoptee 26. Twin of Romulus 28. Domain

30. “9 to 5” singer 33. Bikini tops 36. Total emptiness 38. River flowing from Yellowstone National Park 39. Depressed 40. November meteor shower 42. Fancy marble 43. 1836 battle site 45. Fair to middling 46. Piano pieces? 47. “Get with it!” 49. Fine English porcelain

51. Finish 53. Outstanding debt 57. “__ and Lovers” 59. “Tootsie” star 61. Tipped over 62. Jetties 64. Pitman 66. Plus 67. Ancient Roman garment 68. St Petersburg’s river 69. Express again 70. Fish-eating duck 71. Western writer Zane

22. Oater affirmative 25. Cleanse 27. Assemble 29. Legendary king of Crete 31. Endorse 32. Tidings 33. Give everything away 34. Work for a player 35. Cognizance 37. Run down 40. Burden 41. Portal 44. Criminal intent

46. “__ The Faith” (Billy Joel song) 48. Big brute 50. Make a rhythmic sound 52. Treaties 54. “Lou Grant” star 55. One of Chaucer’s pilgrims 56. Roam 57. Practice pugilism 58. Seine feeder 60. Chamber 63. Pig’s digs 65. Jurisprudence

Down 1. Pursue 2. Greek underworld 3. Draw a bead on 4. Authors 5. What eds. edit 6. Lorelei Lee’s creator 7. Tie up the boat 8. Saul’s army chief 9. __-Magnon 10. Best Actress of 1981 11. Exaggerate 12. Aqua __ 13. Petticoat junction? 18. Only

Hard

Evil

123


DISTRACTIONS

May 2014

Horoscopes Aries

March 20 - April 20

A catch-22 situation arises and causes you frustration early in the month, but creative thinking could turn things around. Don’t be afraid to try the unusual. A Libra friend shows you the positive side. Cynicism slows you down. Financial problems may arise later in the month.

Taurus

April 21 - May 21

Absence makes the heart grow fonder, especially if you’re involved with a Scorpio. A decision you made several months ago has an effect on you this month. A problem that arises will be a blessing in disguise. Expect delays. Leo causes you frustration this month.

Gemini

May 22 - June 21

A Taurus from your past resurfaces. You’ll find the bull a little deeper than you remember. A mid-month break from your busy schedule brightens your mood. Don’t be afraid to give in to relaxation — it’s really not so bad! Scorpio plays a role. Decisive action is key this month.

Cancer

June 22 - July 22

A great month! Something you worked hard for and wanted for some time is finally yours. Don’t be afraid to celebrate in a big way. Your finances look good. More free time is on the way, so don’t be afraid to take advantage. An especially romantic weekend is in store. Taurus plays a role.

Leo

July 23 - August 23

Keep a tight hold on valuables or something you love could be lost. This is especially true if you’re traveling this month. Try to make the best of a bad situation. Negative thinking makes matters worse. Staying focused helps you keep pace with a busy workload.

Virgo

August 24 - September 23

Speaking up is the only way to make others aware of your frustrations. Keeping it all bottled in won’t help one bit. A flirtation at work could be a recipe for disaster — know what you’re getting into before flashing that smile. Leo is involved. Now’s a good time to get in touch with old friends.

124 www.groovekorea.com / May 2014

Libra

September 24 - October 23

Before searching far for something you need, take a look right in front of you. It may not seem so obvious at first, but it will be crystal clear in time. A show of independence will work wonders in a romance — especially with Scorpio. An unusual source tells you of an investment opportunity. Good news comes in threes.

Scorpio

October 24 - November 22

Time spent alone gives you the opportunity to think through problems. You’ll be able to come to terms with a situation that has been troubling you for some time. If you’re in a management position, you may find that it’s lonely at the top. Change is imminent in a romance.

Sagittarius

November 23 - December 21

A career opportunity could come your way when you least expect it. Before discounting it at face value, take a deeper look. There may be more than meets the eye. If a major purchase is in the works, be sure to shop around. Don’t write out any checks unless you’re getting a good deal.

Capricorn

December 22 - January 19

Look back to the past to help fix a problem today. You’ll find that time has a way of repeating itself. Scorpio offers some words of wisdom. New romance should be avoided this month — especially if a Virgo is in the picture. An introspective mood leads you to answers.

Aquarius

January 20 - February 18

A friend’s offer of help may not be totally selfless. There could be some motives you’re not aware of. If you’re looking for a new job, this could be a lucky time. Be sure to explore all options. Social invitations are more abundant now. Don’t be afraid to have some fun.

Pisces

February 19 - March 19

Finances will become an issue — especially if you have moved or taken on additional expenses recently. Careful budgeting will get you through. A to-do list helps keep you organized at work. Social activities may have to take a back seat to family obligations this month.


COLUMN • YONSEI UNIversity dental hospital

Laminate, aesthetic prosthodontic treatment

In

a lifetime, the tooth surface gradually wears out and the inner layer of a tooth, called the dentin, thickens. Inevitably, teeth get stained and spaces develop in between. Thus, aesthetic rehabilitation has attracted public interest. When a tooth ages, it wears down; the contour changes and gaps occur. Evenly arranged, unworn teeth show vigor, so many patients visit their dental clinic with the dream of having young-looking teeth. For many, bleaching is sufficient if you want your teeth to have a lighter shade, and prosthodontic treatment is necessary to modify tooth size and shape, as well as gaps. Prosthodontic treatment is useful in that it can easily change a tooth’s shape in a short time. Depending on the degree of dental coverage, types of prosthodontic treatment range from crown to laminate.

Prosthesis cementation after preparation of labial surface

Laminate is a type of anterior tooth aesthetic treatment that involves slightly reducing labial surfaces and bonding thin, nail-like ceramic laminates onto the labial surfaces of the affected teeth. The main advantage of laminate veneers is conservation of tooth structure, but there are other factors to consider: The treatment is more difficult, the fees can be prohibitive and laminate veneers pose the risk of falling out or being damaged by trauma.

For further information or reservations, call Ms. Kelly Soe, the English coordinator at Yonsei University Dental Hospital. +82 2 2228 8998 +82 2 363 0396 idc@yuhs.ac 50-1 Yonsei-ro, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul www.yuhs.or.kr/ en/hospitals/dent_ hospital/Conserv_ dentist/Intro

Crown prothesis, by comparision, is made to envelope a tooth in order to prevent the restoration from falling out, but laminate involves the bonding of the prosthesis onto the tooth surface instead of enveloping it. Laminate veneers manufactured from dental ceramics are solid by forming a unit with teeth after bonding,

but a nonbonding area may exist in case tooth size needs to be increased due to spacing or a small tooth size. Therefore, if this area is traumatized, veneers may break or fall out. Also, laminate veneers are very comparable to glass, so a sufficient thickness is essential for strength and uniform shade.

Post-op shade maintenance care

For the bonding of laminate veneers, it is crucial that a patient’s natural enamel remains intact. The reason for this is that laminate veneers bond better to the outermost layer — the enamel — than dentin. Laminate also requires the combination of four factors: meticulous analysis of occlusion, accurate treatment procedure, healthy gingiva and precise prosthesis, so it can often be a relatively complicated treatment. In addition, shade difference between a veneer and tooth may occur over time. To prevent this, regular checkups and maintenance are necessary for gingival health and the maintenance of one’s desired tooth shade.

What is laminate?

Tip

An aesthetic treatment that consists of slight labial reduction and bonding of thin, nail-like porcelain veneers onto the labial surface of the affected tooth.

Advantage Requires less time than orthodontic treatment and forms aesthetically shaped teeth in uniform arrangement Disadvantage Expensive due to difficult technique; potential of falling out and breakage due to trauma Caution Shade difference between a veneer and

tooth may occur after some time. Regular checkups and maintenance are required.

Joon-sung Shim, DDS, Ph.D. Professor & Chairman Department of Prosthodontics Yonsei University Dental Hospital Vice President Korean Academy of Oral & maxillofacial Implantology


PROMOTIONS Edited by Sean Choi (sean@groovekorea.com)

Club Med

Summer Holiday Good Bonus Premium All-Inclusive Resort Club Med presents their Summer Holiday Good Bonus Promotion, available up until May 31 for customers who dream of having a perfect holiday this summer. Club Med offers a discount of up to 40 percent on air packages, with the price for adults starting from 1,117,000 won including flights and accommodation. This promotion is available to guests who reserve an air package with a departure date before October 29 at one of Club Med’s seven Asian resorts: Bali, Phuket, Cherating Beach, Bintan Island, Guilin, Kabira Beach and Maldives Kani. Club Med offers an all-Inclusive service, which includes air fare, lodging, meals, alcohol and beverages, limitless snacks, 60 sports activities, kids club and night entertainment. . For more information, visit www.clubmed.co.kr or call (02) 3452-0123.

Between Dining & Tapas Lounge Chef Paolo Collavini Brings Real Italian Cuisine to Itaewon Want to savor the taste of Italy? Introducing Italian Chef Paolo Collavini at Between Dining & Tapas Lounge. With an impressive background of culinary training and a unique, personable charm, Chef Paolo is a globally revered chef who continues to demonstrate his skill. Chef Paolo originally moved to Seoul to work for The Westin Chosun as an Executive Sous Chef for one year before moving to Busan to spend two years working for the Paradise Hotel as a Sous Chef. As recognition for his contributions to the quality of hotel’s dining experience, the latter restaurant has been renamed in the culinary artist’s family name, much to his delight. He joined Between as an Executive Chef in 2014, bringing with him his 30 years of experience acquired at restaurants in 16 different countries. Chef Paolo takes great pride in using quality ingredients to make delicious food, and his signature dishes all come from the northern part of Italy. He is especially known for his spaghetti con uova di pesce, which has a tender texture that contrasts with the crunch of its salted pollack roe garnish. Also worth noting is his gamberoni alla griglia con insalata di melanzane e patate, a light and tasty dish made with anchovies. And, of course, don’t forget to try our new entrée and tiramisu dessert! According to Chef Paolo, “My traditional Italian background and natural enthusiasm is matched by my impressive international experience and innovative approach. I want to emphasize the authentic Italian taste to my customers.” Business Hours Mon–Thurs 11:30 a.m.–2:00 a.m. Fri 11:30 a.m.–4:00 a.m. Sat–Sun 11:00 a.m.–4:00 a.m. Lunch: Mon–Fri 11:30 a.m.–3:00 p.m. Brunch: Sat– Sun 11:00 a.m.–5:00 p.m. For reservations, call (02) 795-6164.

126 www.groovekorea.com / May 2014


Grand Hyatt Seoul

Poolside Barbecue Opening

Grand Hyatt Seoul’s acclaimed Poolside Barbeque heats up its grills for the season starting May 10. The Poolside Barbecue, which opens daily for the remainder of the season starting May 10, is the perfect place for families, couples and friends to share time together, surrounded by scenic gardens, sparkling blue waters and breathtaking views of the city. It also happens to be the perfect place to enjoy the best of the Grand Hyatt Seoul’s custom-grilled delicacies. The Poolside Barbeque features a variety of premium meats, poultry and seafood grilled to perfection, including sirloin steaks, lamb chops, chicken, pork sausage, cuttlefish, salmon and much more. In addition, a buffet of fresh salads, appetizers, side dishes and desserts await your discovery, completing the perfect outdoor dining experience. For those who would like to enjoy free-flowing beverages, unlimited wine, draft beer and soft drinks are also available for a small additional charge. The Poolside Barbeque is open from 6:30 p.m. to 10:00 p.m. every night, weather permitting. Price for adults is 85,000 won per person from Monday to Thursday and 95,000 won from Friday to Sunday, and unlimited draft beer, house wine and soft drinks are available for 135,000 won. The price for children is 45,000 won. All prices include tax. For inquiries, call (02) 799-8495.

Banyan Tree Club & Spa Seoul May special events

Banyan Tree’s Concert with Mamma Mia Musical Stars is coming again in May. Three musical stars representing Korea — Lee Kyung Mi, Jun Soo Kyung and Choi Jung Won — will be gathered for concert at the Oasis, Banyan Tree Club & Spa Seoul. Enjoy the climactic scene of Mamma Mia alongside other musical masterpieces while you enjoy a buffet dinner at Banyan Tree’s Concert with Mamma Mia Musical Stars. The concert will be held on May 22 at 6:00 p.m. at the Oasis outdoor swimming pool, and the price is 210,000 won per person. The hotel is also hosting Jazz in the City Vol. 5, an evening of dinner and music on May 8. We invite guests to enjoy the unforgettable experience of taking in a lively jazz show with your lover or parents in the spring breeze following a buffet dinner. At the center of the event is Jin-ho Hur, a jazz musician who graduated from the Berkley College of Music, and Woong San, a popular jazz musician in Korea. Jin-ho Hur had been playing at various jazz festivals, including Osaka International Jazz Festival in Japan and Jarasum International Jazz Festival. Bringing a softer sound, Woong San is constantly credited as one of the best jazz vocalists of her generation because of her unique voice. From ballads to beat-heavy numbers, she brings her genuine emotions to the stage, evoking joy and sorrow in her skillful delivery. The price for the concert is 150,000 won per person. On Children’s Day, May 5, the resort presents a touching classic talk concert, Cinema Paradise, screening powerful scenes from famous films with musical scores performed by the talented string ensemble Quartet X. The moving performance will also include music from Hashish Joe (representing animation music), John Williams (leading a history of soundtrack) and Ennio Morricone (covering the romantic soundtrack, beginning with Western movies). Don’t miss a great opportunity to enjoy Children’s Day with your family. The price is 85,000 won for adults and 65,000 won for kids, including semi-buffet dinner. For more information, visit www.banyantreeclub.com or call (02) 2250-8000.

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PROMOTIONS Edited by Sean Choi (sean@groovekorea.com)

Conrad Seoul

Conrad Junior Par ty together with Car toon Network In celebration of Children’s Day, Conrad Seoul will be staging a Conrad Junior Party together with the Cartoon Network where, from May 4 to 5, kids become the stars. For these two days, Conrad Seoul’s Grand Ballroom will be transformed into a Kids Theme Park featuring buffet dining for families and a host of fun activities and games for children. The ballroom will be decorated with food, spectacles and recreational activities to keep the children fascinated, including a special kid’s buffet offering the foods that children love most. It will also offer a Cartoon Playground where kids can participate in a variety of games and events with their favorite characters from the Cartoon Network. The buffet will include Korean, Chinese and Japanese food, desserts and quick dishes, all served from the buffet stations. The hotel will also be introducing a special buffet station at eye-level for children that will serve mini-burgers, hot dogs, spaghetti, pizza and an assortment of special Children’s Day menu items such as chocolates and macaroons, featuring the faces of the Cartoon Network’s most famous characters. At the Cartoon Playground, Finn and Jake, two of the Cartoon Network’s most famous characters, will be hosting a range of games, activities and events for the children. The playground will offer such activities as a Cartoon Network character sticker tattoos, flying rocket balloons, My Unique Bag making and a card flipping game led by Finn and Jake. Kids who participate in the games will be given a Cartoon Network character pin set as a gift. An Air Bounce Zone decorated in a cartoon setting will also be set up, as well as a photo session where kids can take their picture with their favorite cartoon characters. The Conrad Junior Party with the Cartoon Network will be held in the Grand Ballroom on the third floor of the Conrad Seoul from 11:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. on May 4 and 5. Guests who buy a ticket before April 25 will receive a 10 percent discount. Ticket buyers can also book a room or room package (excluding the Moon River Sailing package) at a 15 percent discount off regular prices during the month of May. Tickets for this event must be purchased in advance. For inquiries, call (02) 6137-7516.

128 www.groovekorea.com / May 2014


Grand Ambassador Seoul

The King’s Family Month Promotion

Grand Ambassador Seoul’s premium live buffet restaurant The Kings is offering a special family month promotion to help guests spend meaningful time with their loved ones. On May 5, The Kings is offering a special Children’s Day Brunch in honor of the holiday. Chicken nuggets, pork cutlet, pizza, character cakes, gummy candy and various other dishes that kids love will be added to the menu. Magic balloons will also be made for children, with face painters on hand to help guests leave with the fondest memories of Children’s Day. After the meal, children will be encouraged to participate in a special bubble magic show held at Gran-A, another restaurant venue at the hotel. The Children’s Day event will be offered at two times: from 11:30 a.m. to 1:20 p.m. and from 1:40 p.m. to 3:30 p.m. Children can catch our 30-minute bubble magic show after their meal, from 1:30 p.m. to 2 p.m. or from 3:40 p.m. to 4:10 p.m. This very special Children’s Day event at The Kings is priced at 74,000 won per adult and 42,000 won per child. On May 8, our chef will prepare special dishes in honor of Parents’ Day. During our lunchtime service, abalone and chicken soup with ginseng (known for re-invigorating energy and health) will be offered. For dinner, a healthy shark’s fin soup will be prepared. Please reserve well ahead to take advantage of these very unique dining options. A special monthly promotion from May 6 to May 31 will also be offered. During this period, a child who is 12 years or under accompanying two or more adult guests will dine for free. Also, a guest who is 65 years or older accompanying three or more adult guests will also dine for free. This event is intended to help guests spend more meaningful time with their children, parents or teachers. The Kings’ buffet is priced at 67,000 won for lunch and 75,000 won for dinner. For information and reservations, call (02) 2270-3121.

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PROMOTIONS Edited by Sean Choi (sean@groovekorea.com)

Lotte Hotel Busan Wine happy hour

The Lounge at Lotte Hotel Busan presents a wine happy hour to celebrate the second anniversary of its renewal. From 6:00 p.m. until 9:00 p.m., seven different kinds of wine will be provided without limit, offered with canapés and a side dish. A 10 percent discount is given to guests who make reservations in advance. The price is set at 49,000 won per guest. Upon providing business cards, guests will be entered in a drawing for bottles of wine, with the winner selected at the end of the month. For reservations and inquiries, call (051) 810-6430.

Park Hyatt Busan Fresh Package

Novotel Ambassador Busan Italy Pasta Promotion

Novotel Ambassador Busan, Terrace Café will launch its Italy Pasta Promotion on April 10. The promotion includes seven dishes and gives patrons the chance to experience the different regional flavors, ingredients and sauces from several places in Italy. One of the featured entrees is Livorno-Style Conchiglie, a tomato-based dish that originated in a northern port city in Italy and is made of fresh seafood such as king prawn and clams. The Campania-Style Puttanesca Spaghetti is a tomato-based pasta dish using strong seasonings from the Campania area, while the Sicilia-Style Fettuccine is a beef sauce pasta dish with flat noodles and the Treviso-Style Fusilli features red chicory Treviso. In addition to these regional offerings, we also present dishes like The Ascoli-Style Rotelle, Calabrese-Style Spaghetti and Norma Spaghetti. This promotion will be a good chance to enjoy a real taste of authentic Italian-style pasta. The promotion lasts until the end of May and is priced from 25,000 won. For inquiries, call the Terrace Café at (051) 662-6267.

130 www.groovekorea.com / May 2014

Available until May 2014, Lumi Spa at Park Hyatt Busan presents a Fresh Package featuring a special facial and body treatment to revitalise and infuse your skin with life. Lumi Spa offers you a refreshing program for sensitive skin damaged by fine dust, ultraviolet rays and the vast changes in daily temperature. The package consists of a brightening facial treatment along with a body massage lasting 120 minutes in total. This oxygenating, anti-aging facial treatment includes spirulina algae for the ultimate nutrient boost. Combined with botanical extracts, the skin is awakened to reveal a lasting, healthy new glow. Guests are then able to choose a body massage programme of either Organic Aromatic or Rebalance Massage. The Fresh Package is offered at 180,000 won on weekdays, a discount of 50 percent, and 250,000 won at weekends, which is discounted by 30 percent. A brightening facial treatment is also provided at a 30 percent discounted price of 140,000 won. The package is available through advance reservation, from 10:00 a.m. to 10:00 p.m. until May. For information and reservations, call (051) 990-1440.




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