KEB targets expats
tuesday taste-off
I fixed my teeth. Finally!
groove 50 korea
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jarasum singsing winter festival itaewon animal hospital
studiox shed some pounds, Boot Camp style
december 2010
A chronological review of HIV in the Korean media since 2009 — Gusts of Popular Feeling
seoulvibes: Interview with Robb Harker music • on sparrow hills • swimmingdoll • goodassmusic • space rhyme Continuum
inside shed some pounds at boot camp
50 th
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pages 52-55
A milestone for Groove Korea They say time flies. For expats living in Korea, time can be measured in terms of how many Mud Festivals you have been to, how many entry and exit stamps your passport has on it, or how many friends have passed through your life while you were here. At Groove Korea, we count in terms of issues, or perhaps the writers and photographers who come and go. At 50 issues, that would probably amount to more than 250 writers, 50 photographers and another dozen editors. Fifty is the most consecutive issues for any current expat magazine in Korea. And one of the reasons we have made it this far is you, the readers. Since this magazine’s launch, the input of the readers has been the very essence of this publication. Our readers often become our writers, as well as our harshest critics and biggest cheerleaders. Another reason, no less important to us at Groove Korea, is the dedication and hard work of Adam Walsh. I mention him, because this will be his last issue as managing editor. He’s been with the magazine for probably the last 40 issues (maybe more) and has served as my right hand for about 24 of those issues. Without people like Adam working selflessly, intelligently and with passion, we would not be here today. So on this occasion, we at Groove Korea raise our glasses to you, the readers, for supporting us for so long and to Adam Walsh, for giving this magazine his all. All the best, Adam! — Tracey Stark
groove korea
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december 2010 | issue 50
Cover photo by:
Ben Min
Cover subject: 66 10 12
16 20
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Calendar of Events Korea Beat in the news
A Chronological Review of HIV in the Korean Media Since 2009
info
KEB Target Expatriates with English Services
22
makeover series — part 3
Movies
24
Cody Hunter
I Fixed My Teeth. Finally!
Publishers: Sean Choi and MJ Kim Chief Consultant: Ju-han Kim Marketing Director: Jong-shin Lee
A Bloody Aria, Midnight FM
books
To contact GROOVE Korea for advertising, submissions or general comments, please email info@groovekorea.com or call 010-7560-5552
Seoulvibes
Disclaimer: The articles are the sole property of Groove Korea. No reproduction is permitted without the express written consent of Groove Korea. The opinions expressed in the magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher.
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Andrew Salmon
28 Robb Harker
30 31 32 35
36 37 38 39
Music
Space Rhyme Continuum GoodAssMusic Presents Two Fresh Parties to the Scene On Sparrow Hills Swimmingdoll
art
Anthony Rapp SSEO — 22nd Century Artist Inhibition, Not Exhibition Dripan Event Venue
FOOD & DRINK 40 44 46 48 50
Tuesday Taste-Off Copacabana Memphis King Hog Hof Ho Lee Chow
travel
56 Removed, Indonesia 60 Jeju Island in Fall
Around korea
68 70 72 74 76 78
Community
62 Jarasum SingSing Winter Festival 64 Road Running 66 Provence Village, Gyeonggi Province
79 80 82 83 84 86
Itaewon Animal Hospital Reel Rock Film Tour Photo Tips: Look to the Light Seoul 48 Hour Film Festival Trip to Hushu
Listings horoscope konglish of the month Itaewon Directory Hongdae Directory Pic of the Month the last laugh
Issue Date: Vol. 6, Issue 12 - December 1, 2010 Registration Date: January 25, 2008 Registration No. Seoul Ra 11806
calendar of events
december
monday
sunday
tuesday
Quiz & Wing Night Every Wednesday @ Roofers in Itaewon. 8 pm — 100,000 won prize
The Garden of Lights
College Night Every Wed @ Club Mass in Gangnam. No cover & 1 FREE drink with student ID til midnight
The Garden of Morning Calm in Gapyeong County Dec. 3 - Feb. 28
Crazy Party: Gon @ VERA
Headhunters @ HEAVEN
Itaewon-Hannam Global Village Center Making Kimchi for Charity @ Hangangno Community Center
Baekseung @ mASS
Olivia Newton-John 40th Anniversary @ KyungHee Univ. 6th & 7th Massage Mondays @ SKY Wellness Center in Itaewon. 1-hr full body massage and get FREE 20 mins. FOOT massage.
Elisabeth Kontomanou ‘Sings Bille Holiday’ @ Mapo Art Center Pantera Tribute Concert @ Sapiens 7
saturday All you can eat ribs ONLY 30,000w @ Memphis King BBQ in Bangbaedong Crying Nut & More @ Sangsang Madang
Turati @ VERA
Starwarz Series: KOO @ eden
Bucket Night Every Fri @ Beer O’Clock in Sinchon. 5 shots with mix... in a bucket 12,000 won.
16th Anniversary Party @ JOKERRED Jammy Party with Sauza @ Volume
Drag Bingo Night Every Fri @ Bar Bliss in Itaewon. 9pm
2
1 Four Tet @ Club Vera in Hongdae supercolorsuper.com
friday
thursday
wednesday
Ballet Swan Lake @ Seoul Arts Center. 7-12
AshGray, Click-B @ V-Hall
2 for 1 Fish & Chips Every Tues @ Wolfhound Pub in Itaewon
Suji’s Sky High Pastrami Sandwiches @ Suji’s in Itaewon/COEX/ Bundang. Every Wednesday after 5pm get an extra 3.5oz. of pastrami free for a 10.6oz sandwich
3
LADIES SPECIAL with Tavalon Tea cocktail @ bu2 lounge in Itaewon
Louie Vega @ eden
3,000 won Rum, Gin, Vodka @ Beer O’Clock in Sinchon
Winter Mash Up with Chuckie @ Walkerhill Theater
4 Santacon Seoul @ Beer O’Clock in Sinchon
Rhythm of Night @ m2
Super Sketch @ Theater Zero in Hongdae Seoul Lights Festival @ Cheonggye plaza near City Hall. Until Jan 9
20% OFF for All Set Menus Every Fri/Sat @ Spice Table in Itaewon from 5-9pm.
Sauza & Maker’s Mark Party @ bu2 lounge in Itaewon Anthony Middleton @ eden
Beast @ Jamsil Indoor Gymnasium Diablo, Crash, Method @ Sangsang Madang
7
6
5 Teachers’ Night @ Big Rock in Gangnam. 10% OFF for all ESL teachers
Born in 1990. No Cover & 1 FREE Drink Every Sun @ Club Mass in Gangnam til midnight
12
Steak Dinner Every Tues @ Hollywood Grill in Itaewon. Only 13,500 won
East Coast Canada Night @ Beer O’Clock in Sinchon. Bagpipes, good tunes and Food
Wing Night @ Beer O’clock in Shinchon. 1/2 priced wings
All Day Breakfast @ Wolfhound in Itaewon. All day, every weekday
13 2 for 1 Special @ Bar Bliss in Itaewon. Everyday 7-10pm
8
Sunday Night Live Open Mic @ Roofers in Itaewon. Every 1st & 3rd Sunday
Spoken Word/Stand Up Comedy, Poetry Every Wed @ Tony’s Aussie Bar & Bistro in Itaewon 8-11pm
BBQ Night Every Tuesday @ Roofers in Itaewon BBQ Steak + beer = 12,000 won
Happy Hour Every Wed @ Bar Bliss in Itaewon
Drunken Chicken Night @ Gecko’s in Itaewon
Wing Night Every Tues @ Nashville in Itaewon. 250won/wing. 5-8pm
19 Galneryus, Downhell, Silent Eye @ Sangsang Madang
20 Texas Hold’em in Busan Mon-Sun after 6pm. playpokerinbusan@hotmail.com
26 10/GROOVE KOREA/december 2010
27
ROK For Seoul @ Roofers.18 & 19
Wing Night @ Orange Tree in Haebangchon. 10 for 3,000won
Lingerie Slumber Party: Oliver Twizt @ AM
2010 Charity PARTY NIGHT @ bu2 lounge in Itaewon
James Murphy (LCD Soundsystem) @ eden
2010 Busan Port Lighting Festival In Busan until Jan 9
Mic Swagger Show @ Yonsei University Memorial Hall. 17 & 18. MC Sniper, Dumbfounded & More
The Moonshiners @ Sangsang Madang
16
17 ALL-YOU-CAN-DRINK 40,000won @ Big Rock in Gangnam. 7-10pm
Brown City @ Sangsang Madang Jazz Festival Every Thur @ La Cigale Montmartre in Itaewon. 7pm
Christmas EVE Party @ bu2 lounge in Itaewon
Shooters Night Every Thur @ Gecko’s in Itaewon. Every shot 4,500 won
2PM, Wonder Girls, J.Y. Park & More @ Olympic Park Gymnasium
Dubfire @ ROCOCO Hanna Hansen @ m2
18
Christmas Dinner Buffet @ Big Rock in Gangnam. Includes complimentary drink Christmas Party @ Roofers in Itaewon
Ronn Branton ‘Merry Christmas with Jazz Christmas’ concert @ Seoul Arts Center
21 Open Mic Night Every Tues @ Olde Stompers in Itaewon Guinness Day Every Tues @ Gecko’s in Itaewon
The History of Rock @ The Bungalow in Itaewon. 8pm Every Sun.
11
Ego-Wrappin’ @ AX-Korea
15
Rib Night @ Sam Ryan’s. 500 won. Barbeque pork Ribs
Broccoli, You Too? @ AX-Korea
Leon Bolier @ HEAVEN
Singles Vol.18 @ m2
Open Stage from 8pm Every Thur @ Dolce Vita in Itaewon
14
10
9
28
23
22 Poker Tournament Every Wed @ Fence in Nonhyun
The City Rock Festival @ Jangchung Gymnasium. Galaxy Express, Cherry Filter, Crash & More
MAX Beer Day Every Wed @ Beer O’Clock in Sinchon. Buy any pizza and a Max, 2nd Max FREE.
29
Countdown Fantasy 2011 @ AX-Korea. 30 & 31. The Moonshiners, Seoul Electric Band, Jaurim & More
24 ALL-YOU-CAN-DRINK 40,000won @ Big Rock. FREE Champagne. 8-11pm COUNT DOWN 2011 @ bu2 lounge in Itaewon Michael Bolton ‘True Love Song’ @ Korea Univ. Rain @ Jamsil Indoor Gymnasium
30
Club Day Last Friday of every month in Hongdae
31
25
concerts in 2011 v Jan. 11 — S ting v Jan. 16 — mary j. blige v feb. 11 — T aylor Swift v feb. 20 — E ric Clapton v mar. 10 — Iron Maiden december 2010/GROOVE KOREA/11
www.koreabeat.com
KOREA BEAT
december
the blog for korean news in english translation
Ladyboy Busted for Beating own Kids
Filipino Student Kicked out of Korean School for Being Gay
Exclusive
A
to Groove Korea
transgendered man in his 30s, who dreams of becoming a woman, has been caught by police for abusing his four children. On November 26, the Jeollabuk-do Provincial Police Agency arrested 30year old Mr. Oh on child abuse charges. He began beating his children in 2008. Mr. Oh, who at night worked in a transgender establishment, began beating his four children and denying them food after his girlfriend abandoned them in Gwangju. Oh, who receives weekly hormone injections to become a “true woman,” would come home drunk and beat his children so they would call him “mom.” He would sober up in the morning and act like a father, then in the early morning hours he would be extremely drunk and become “mom,” confusing his children about his sexual identity. He did not send the children, aged four to ten, to school or kindergarten, fed them irregularly, and beat with them with his fists. He had three more children with another woman and she also hit them.
Finally, Oh was arrested by police, who had been called by his parents. Oh, who has completed his military service, told police that “starting a few years ago I started to feel strongly that I have to become a woman.” A member of the police said, “at the time of his arrest, Oh was wearing high heels and women’s makeup, and spoke exactly like a woman... everyone working in the holding cell area was shocked when he was visited by a boyfriend.”
New Flawed Question Found on University Entrance Exam Following the discovery of a potentially unfair question on the English language section of the most recently administered university entrance exam, the Kyunghyang Shinmun reports that the Korean Finance Association (한국재무학회) believes that question 46 on the (Korean) language portion of the exam was fatally flawed. 12/GROOVE KOREA/december 2010
The question had to do with interpreting a graph showing the prices of bonds. The correct answer was #3, 금리, but the KFA points out that 금리 has two meanings. Under the more common meaning #3 is correct, but under the other meaning there would have been no correct answer at all.
His light purple eyeshadow glowed softly over his long eyelashes. He has neat bobbed hair. He is 24-year-old “P,” a gay man from the Philippines who appears to be a woman. He has been attending a Catholic graduate school in Seoul since September. However, at the end of month the school expelled him from the men’s dormitory because he is gay. Baseless rumors about him had circulated in the dormitory, such as that he “has women’s underwear” and “uses the women’s bathroom”, and eventually they came to the attention of the school. An employee of the school went to him and demanded that he leave the dormitory. He protested that “the rumors are not true and no student has been harmed” but to no avail. The school told him that “your actions are immoral, violate the rules of the dormitory, and do not comport with Korean culture.” In the end “P” picked up his bags. “I didn’t do anything wrong, but I guess they thought that it seemed other students had been harmed because of me.” However, he was unable to sign the letter of academic withdrawal the school placed in front of him. He could not agree to cease his studies because he is gay. He said, “I majored in communications at university in The Philippines, and I strongly desire to do my graduate studies in Korea and be a cultured person.” He went to a Catholic university in The Philippines. His sexual identity caused no problems there. In May he went for an admissions interview with the same physical appearance as today, and it went unremarked. But now his situation is grim. Just three months after entering the school he is to be expelled. The scholarship that paid for all of his tuition is to be cut off. The school, which establishes the rules for the English dormitory, had promised him a full scholarship for his English ability. The school explained, “the scholarship is dependent on residence in the dormitory, so after leaving it he cannot receive the scholarship.” Without a scholarship he cannot continue his studies. “P” went to the Philippine Embassy at the end of last month to try and resist academic withdrawal, but was told “just say you will withdraw from the school.” The school said, “students in the dormitory were upset and so he was expelled from it, and it has not been decided whether he will be expelled from the school.” He said, “I didn’t know that my dream of studying in Korea could crumble because of my sexual identity... I feel so sad when I think of how Korean sexual minorities are treated so badly.” He added, “if you say I can be expelled from a Korean school for being gay, well, I am happy to fight that.”
korea beat
www.koreabeat.com
Corporal Punishment Being Replaced by ‘Self-Reflection Rooms’ At high school “A” in Seoul on Nov. 1, a student who was scolded for acting up replied, “there’s no corporal punishment starting today, right? We have cell phones.” The student continued, “you can’t make me kneel down either, so you can’t make me pay attention to the lesson.” A teacher at high school “B”, which has introduced a system of demerits, handed out demerits to a student found using a cellphone during class, and the student started a physical tussle. The student said, “how can you give me demerits if you can’t hit my legs and take away the phone like in the past?” The teacher added, “there’s no corporal punishment anymore so many more students are acting up in class.” The first day of the corporal punishment ban in Seoul schools was confused. Some teachers said, “the corporal punishment regulations were deleted by the Office of Education but the problem is that alternatives aren’t effective,” and “not every school has prepared alternatives to corporal punishment.” Students’ opinions of the corporal punishment ban varied. One student at high school “C” said, “I absolutely agree with the ban on corporal punishment for the protection of students’ rights... I won’t have to feel bad anymore because of corporal punishment.” But 18-year old Lim, a female student at high school “D”, said, “there was almost no corporal punishment in the past but now with the ban some students are acting badly... I’m worried that the atmosphere in class will get worse.” The homepage of the Seoul Office of Edu-
cation on the Nov. 1 received numerous comments from parents and students about the ban, and hundreds of debates played out on internet sites. According to the Seoul Office of Education, when altering their regulations on student life 81% of students wanted to replace corporal punishment with self-reflection rooms (성찰교 실). 80% wanted a demerits system, 30% chose at least two options, 10% left it to the school’s choice, and 8% chose a court. However, teachers believe the operation of self-reflection rooms to be difficult. A teacher at middle school “E” said, “there is no space to use for a self-reflection room and nobody has been selected to oversee it... I’m worried that sending students to the room will violate their educational rights.” Many pointed out the limits of demerits as an alternative to corporal punishment. One teacher at an elementary school in Gangnam said, “in the past we had a demerits system but it wasn’t effective since students stopped caring about it in high school.” Seongdong Global Business High School, which was chose by the Seoul Office of Education to implement a self-reflection room, first gives a troublesome student a verbal warning, then has the student stand at the back of the classroom, then sends the student to a self-reflection room. This school was chosen to use a self-reflection room because it already operated a counselling room with a program called “wee class” for students with poor grades or bad life situations. However, just 10% of Seoul schools
have such counselors available. The Seoul Office of Education plans, by the end of December, to place counsellors in schools that are having trouble implementing self-reflection rooms. An official with the Office said, “we will provide information related to self-reflection rooms... we emphasize that the first place for students to be counselled is in the classroom, and letters of apology may be written in the self-reflection rooms.” At the schools some called this “too late”. One middle school teacher said, “there is no manual that instructs us how to handle every issue... teachers are worried students will cut class.” The Korean Federation of Teachers’ Associations (한국교원단체총연합회) sent a letter that day saying, “public education is not being upheld when there is no way to punish students who interrupt class and infringe on other students’ educational rights.” According to the KFTA, since October 25th it has collected over 70 incidents related to the corporal punishment ban. It received numerous calls from teachers on the first day of the ban. One fourth-grade homeroom teacher said, “if students use bad language I want to guide them through educational corporal punishment, but my desire to do so is blocked.” The KFTA said of the Seoul Office of Education’s plans to punish teacher who use corporal punishment that, “we will provide funds for a lawsuit to the Supreme Court for educators punished for using educational corporal punishment.”
N.K. Refugees Surveyed about Human Rights Issues
A study has found that refugees from North Korea consider the limitation of freedom of expression to the most serious human rights violation in North Korea. According to the study, “2010 북한인권백서”, published by the Korean Bar Association (대한변호사협회) (led by Kim Pyeong-woo) on Nov. 10, 200 North Korean refugees were surveyed and 33% chose the suppression of freedom of expression to be the most serious human rights violation. That was followed by the 11.5% who chose the unfair distribution of food, the 9% who chose the horrific conditions faced by political prisoners, and the 7.5% who chose arbitrary arrests. 98.5% of the respondents said that while living in North Korea they wondered whether “this is really the life of people” and 64% said they sometimes had such thoughts. As to what the Republic of Korea can do to improve the human rights situation in North Korea, 23% said demand that the government make improvements, 19.4% said step up broadcasting to North Korea, 17.2% said to send Kim Jong-il and others responsible to the International Criminal Court, 14.5% said expand joint manufacturing facilities in North Korea, and 14% said leafletting. 42% agreed that “international action for human rights in North Korea and resolutions of the United Nations can help improve the human rights situation” while 39% disagreed. The survey also asked about laws related to human rights in North Korea, food problems, torture and inhumane treatment, freedom of religion and belief, freedom of thought and debate, women’s rights, refugee issues, conditions faced by political prisoners, and issues of abductees, prisoners of war, and Japanese-Koreans in North Korea, and their responses were analyzed by experts. Lee Jae-won, a lawyer and the head of the KBA’s North Korean human rights committee, said, “compared to 2006 and 2008, it is difficult to conclude that the human rights of North Korean citizens have been improved... I feel that with the damage to the distribution system, the restrictions on people have been rendered ineffective and many external government systems have broken down.” Lee Myeong-suk of the human rights committee said, “there is evidence that the North has formally altered its laws in response to demands for reform from the UN and other groups, but in reality no change is apparent... However, if international society continues to demand reform, I believe there may be some changes in their attitudes.”
Game-addicted Teen Kills Mother, Self
A middle school student in Busan who was addicted to computer games strangled his mother to death after she had scolded him and then, overcome by guilt, hanged himself. At approximately 7 am on Nov. 16, 43-year old Mrs. Kim’s daughter found her mother strangled on her bed in their Nam-gu apartment and her brother, 15-year old third-year middle school student “A,” hanged from the veranda by the wire for gas. Mrs. Kim’s daughter said, “my mother sometimes scolded my brother for playing too many computer games and at 11 o’clock yesterday morning they had a shouting match, which I thought was just a normal one so I kept sleeping, but when I woke up in the morning my mother was lying on her bed, dead.” According to police, ever since “A” was a young boy he loved computer games and sometimes quarreled over them with his mother, and as he got older he would threaten to attack her when they argued over it. Police found a suicide note he wrote and left for his maternal grandmother, who lived with them. The note said, “I had a fight with my mother over games and did something evil. I am sorry.” Police are continuing to investigate and, based on the suicide note and statements from family members, believe that “A” killed his mother and then committed suicide when overcome with guilt.
14/GROOVE KOREA/december 2010
december 2010/GROOVE KOREA/15
in the
in the
news
news
A chronological review of HIV in the Korean media since 2009 — from the blog “Gusts of Popular Feeling” In February 2009, Benjamin Wagner submitted a complaint regarding the drug and HIV tests required for E-2 visa holders to the National Human Rights Commission, and in concert with this, ATEK encouraged people to submit complaints as well. This was done in part to draw attention to Bill 3356, which, if passed, would mandate HIV/AIDS testing of all foreigners applying for work visas in Korea. At the time, ATEK president Tom Rainey Smith (who has been active with Amnesty International in Korea on migrant workers’ rights) told me he hoped the challenge would benefit other foreigners besides English teachers. 16/GROOVE KOREA/december 2010
In March 2009, Andrea Vandom turned in a letter of protest instead of an AIDS test at immigration, but they renewed her E-2 visa anyway, and then, realizing their “mistake,” threatened to “deport her.” In June, the Korean Public Interest Lawyers Group GongGam filed a petition with the constitutional court on behalf of Vandom arguing that the tests had been “imposed with no reasonable grounds” and were “based on vague prejudice and bias that foreign English teachers have disordered sex lives.” The Court accepted the case in July 2009.That article also stated that the NHRCK was supposed to hold a conference in July on the matter of E-2 visa requirements, but we’re still waiting for that. Also in early June, UN Secretary General Ban Ki-moon advised Korea to remove its HIV entry restrictions.
In September 2009, the Korea Times reported: “Korea is moving to scrap its policy of banning foreigners with HIV/AIDS [...] in the face of protest from foreigners and legal experts against what they call discriminatory measures.” It said that E-2, E-6 and E-9 workers needed HIV tests. However… “There will be no changes for E-6 visa applicants. We do not deal with non-professional workers, as the Labor Ministry is responsible for AIDS tests on E-9 visa applicants,” Ahn Kyu-seok, the KIS spokesman told the Korea Times. “However, if the Constitutional Court rules that making foreign instructors submit documents on HIV tests is unconstitutional, we may have to scrap the requirement,” Ahn added. Interesting that E-6 visa applicants were to face no changes, but not particularly surprising (considering recent events) that they seemed reluctant to change the E-2 HIV tests even in the face of a possible constitutional court ruling.
In early December, migrant worker activists filed a petition against mandatory HIV tests with the NHRCK: The petition, submitted by five groups, including the HIV/AIDS Human Rights Solidarity Nanuri+ and the Migrants’ Trade Union, says South Korea infringes on the human rights of foreign migrants by conducting tests for HIV on them without their knowledge or consent. The coalition made the complaint to coincide with World AIDS Day.
Interesting that E-6 visa applicants were to face no changes, but not particularly surprising (considering recent events) that they seemed reluctant to change the E-2 HIV tests even in the face of a possible constitutional court ruling. On Jan. 4, 2010, it was announced that Korea had lifted travel restrictions on HIV-positive foreigners. A subsequent closer look at this policy a few days later by the Korea Herald, turned up less than hopeful responses from Ministry of Justice spokesperson Ahn Gyu-seok, who said, “Originally, we deported foreigners who tested positive for HIV. And they were not allowed to visit Korea again. But in light of the Jan. 1 announcement, the rule is just getting more flexible, meaning that the rule is not changed,” the spokesperson said. He then said that non-dangerous HIV+ foreigners could remain in Korea, but that if the Ministry of Health judged them to be dangerous, they could be deported. According to Park Il-hoon of the Ministry of Health, “If foreigners who test positive for HIV negatively influence public health, we will restrict them from revisiting Korea. For example, in the case of HIV-positive foreigners having sexual relationships within Korea is one example of when we would restrict someone,” said Park. The article also noted that National Assembly representative Lee Sang-jun, who drafted Bill 3356 (which would mandate HIV/ AIDS testing of all foreigners applying for work visas in Korea) still hoped the lifting of the HIV travel ban would not affect the passing of his bill. According to this Korea Herald article, which looks at how Education officials have urged the Ministry of Justice to “reinstate deportation and to institute further restrictions in the form of annual re-tests for HIV.” In a reply to proposals from national, provincial and municipal Education Review Committees in February and March [2010], the Ministry of Education agreed to petition the Ministry of Justice to revise regulations to give legally binding force to re-testing requirements already in place at some public schools. If the MOE is looking for “legally
binding force,” that seems to suggest they don’t already have it, which makes one wonder about the annual HIV re-testing requirement already in place to renew contracts for SMOE and Ulsan MOE. In mid July, the Prime Minister’s office announced they were going to make things easier for E-2 visa holders (just as tougher new regulations were being announced), but added that the government decided to retain the current system obligating foreign language instructors to get an HIV test, citing a public survey in which the test was supported by 80.7 percent of ordinary citizens.
The Korea Herald explained further: Concerns were highlighted in a press release from the prime minister’s office on July 12 informing people of the results of a survey on whether or not HIV testing of foreigners should be abolished. In two surveys -- one of 500 men and women over 20, the other of 50 professionals (teachers, doctors) -- the results overwhelmingly indicated the desire to continue testing foreigners for HIV -- 80.7 percent for the former and 82 percent for the latter.
The Herald also noted that: The Ministry of Justice recently announced a “revision of HIV infected people regulations.” According to the revised regulations, while HIV tests for foreign teachers on E-2 visas will remain in place, a positive test result will not automatically result in visa cancellation or deportation. According to Ahn Kyu-suk, a public relations official with the Korea Immigration Service, though the rules have been slightly changed, the safety of Korean citizens is still the main concern. Ahn said that deportation can still occur if the health administration reports someone being a potential hazard to societal health. Of note is also the fact that according to the Ministry of Justice there has yet to be any reported cases of teachers testing positive for HIV. december 2010/GROOVE KOREA/17
in the
news Actually, according to a Simin Ilbo article from October 2009 titled “From AIDS to Drugs, Native Speaking Teachers,” three teachers in Gyeonggi-do were found to be HIV+. In 2008 a female teacher working at a middle school in Gapyeong was found to have been infected with HIV by her husband, and after the truth was discovered, she was deported 9 days later, while in early 2009 two native speaking teachers set to work at middle schools in Icheon and Paju were fired after testing positive for HIV during their health screening. The Herald article continues: The MOJ’s move to ease restrictions on HIV testing is considered in-line with the government’s January pledge to remove restrictions for foreigners based on HIV status. Education officials, however, are urging the MOJ to reinstate deportation and to institute further restrictions in the form of annual retests for HIV. [...] An official with the KIS meanwhile said that as far as their regulations go, teachers on E-2 visas only need to get a HIV test upon the initial issuance of an E-2 visa, not for the renewal of a contract. While EPIK is toeing the line on this, SMOE and Ulsan MOE are not, and the latter is facing a challenge at the moment because of one case where a teacher wanted a contract renewal, but did not agree with having to be tested again for HIV. The case has been in arbitration for a year now. Kyung Hee law professor and U.S. attorney Benjamin Wagner represents the teacher who is bringing the challenge.
Meanwhile, the Korea Times reported in August that: The National Human Rights Commission of Korea is likely to conclude that the nation’s visa rules requesting foreign English teachers to submit AIDS/HIV test results infringes upon human rights. Lee Sung-taek, an inspector of the state human rights agency, said Tuesday the agency has completed investigations of petitions, filed by a number of native English-speaking teachers who claim the current E-2 or English teaching visa rules are “discriminative” against them. “The investigation report will be referred to the agency’s committee next month, and the committee, consisting of three permanent members, will decide whether the AIDS check, imposed on native English speakers, is against human rights or not,” Lee told The Korea Times. “(As an inspector), I am positive that immigration authorities would be 18/GROOVE KOREA/december 2010
advised to revise the controversial visa regulations regarding the AIDS check-up, although immigration authorities are not obliged to follow the human right agency’s decision.” The article also notes that the NHRCK review “also affects E-6 (entertainers, artists, athletes and models) and E-9 (non-professional employees) holders, who are also subject to compulsory AIDS tests.”
Then on October 25, the Joongang Ilbo published an article (in Korean) titled “’Compulsory AIDS tests’ for foreigners to be abolished at the end of the year. UN points about ‘violation of human rights’ accepted; Native speaking teachers still need to be tested.” It was pretty much copy and pasted by the Chosun Ilbo as well. The Joongang Ilbo’s English site translated most of it under the title “HIV rule to be lifted for E-6 visa holders.” The Korean government is moving to revise visa regulations on HIV/AIDS ahead of the upcoming G-20 Summit in November, to match global standards on the issue, according to the Ministry of Health and Welfare. Currently, foreigners with E-6 visas - entertainers, athletes and performing artists - staying in the country for more than 90 days must submit an HIV-negative confirmation document prior to entering the country. Those without the document must take an HIV test within 72 hours of their arrival in Korea. The revised regulation will make E-6 visa holders exempt from the requirement and will come into effect at the end of December, said the Ministry of Health and Welfare.
The Korean version adds that: Related to this, at the end of September the Ministry of Justice also announced legislation to amend enforcement regulations of the Immigration Control Law that would abolish confirmation of foreigners’ HIV negative status. Until now, foreigners entering the country to work in hotels or adult entertainment businesses needed to submit a confirmation of HIV negative status in order to receive an E-6 visa and register [at immigration offices], but this procedure will be eliminated. This procedure will also be eliminated for industrial trainees when they receive permission to extend their stay, and for sailing crew when they register [at immigration offices]. However the process of requiring the submission of a health check confirming whether they are infected with AIDS will continue to be required for native speaking teachers when they apply for visas.
The English version notes that: The industrial trainees are on D-3 visas, and tells us that “E-10 visa holders [...] are foreign sailors employed by Korean companies. “ It also adds that “The policy will remain in place for E-2 visa holders - foreign language teachers - because of strong public opposition” [emphasis added]. The part in italics is not in the Korean language article. Interesting that the need to continue testing E-2 visa holders didn’t seem to require any extra comment or justification in the Korean version. As for the reasoning behind the Ministry of Health’s decision to remove the tests, it quotes ministry official Jeong Eun-gyeong: “We’ve decided to ease the rules as HIV is not transmitted through air or water but through human contact most of the time.” She also notes that abolishing the tests was agreed to in order to meet international standards. The English article ends by noting that “About 70 HIV cases among foreigners are reported every year,” illustrated by this chart:
(Newly infected with HIV)
The Korea Times also reported on this: Noting that 4000 E-6 visas are issued every year, but it states instead that it is E-9 visa holders under the employment permit system who will no longer have to submit results or be tested to renew their residency - which differs from the D-3 and E-10 visa holders mentioned in the Joongang Ilbo article. It also notes that the Ministry of Justice’s September repeal of the automatic deportation regulations for people on E-6 and E-9 who test positive for HIV has been submitted to the National Assembly for confirmation. It’s interesting that E-9 visa holders were brought into this, considering that the Ministry of Justice stated in September 2009 that E-9s fell under the jurisdiction of the Ministry of Labor. While the Joongang Daily added the part about “strong public opposition”, the Korea Times went further in laying out the reasons for E-2s continuing to be tested. “Education is considered a very intimate relationship. According to an unofficial survey
An official with the KIS meanwhile said that as far as their regulations go, teachers on E-2 visas only need to get a HIV test upon the initial issuance of an E-2 visa, not for the renewal of a contract. by the Prime Minister’s Office, the majority of parents wanted solid evidence of their children’s teachers’ HIV status,” said an official of the Ministry of Education, Science and Technology. “The continuation does not mean the government regards foreign teachers to be HIV positive or have the potential of transmission — it is just intended to assure the parents. We are considering revisions in this area, too,” he added. In other words, the MOE is saying to foreign English teachers, “We know you don’t have AIDS, the tests are all a show for the parents so just play along.” Cute. As for the “intimate relationship” of education, I thought foreign teachers had no “affection” for Korean students, unlike Korean teachers (though using the word “intimate” in English also conjures up other kinds of relationships between teachers and students; perhaps those teachers should learn from education officials). When it comes to the claim that the MOE is “considering revisions” in their HIV testing policy, the Korea Herald article from August seemed to make that pretty clear. That article also has an interview with an official at the National Institute for International Education Development, a division of the MOE, which oversees EPIK, “For the extension of visa or renewal, submitting an HIV test should be mandatory, but since we have to listen to what the MOJ is instructing, we changed our regulations.” Jung added that negotiations with the MOJ on the matter were continuing and that as far as the NIIED was concerned, HIV test submissions, deportation, and re-testing should be enforced because of concerns expressed by parents and doctors. [...] Citing the survey as one reason for keeping HIV testing regulations rigid, Choi Hong-jun, deputy director of EPIK, said that even though
the MOJ has revised its regulations, negotiations are underway to reverse the new policy. Those negotiations may include the MOE filing a petition with the MOJ to make the already existing annual HIV retests at schools in Seoul and Ulsan “legally binding.” Perhaps what we are seeing with E-2 HIV testing being frozen in place, while HIV tests for other foreign workers are phased out, is part of a compromise between the two ministries. Or perhaps not - only time will tell. Anti English Spectrum was thrilled with the announcement of the continuing HIV tests for English teachers, and sent a report to the Ministry of Health and Welfare the other day titled “Worries about and a demonstration of support for keeping AIDS tests in place for foreign teachers on E-2 visas.” M2 noted that after sending the report, the disease policy (division) of the Ministry of Health and Welfare contacted him, and he also firmly conveyed information about native speaking teachers’ “fabrications and false claims.” In the report itself, AES claims they represent “parents of students and all citizens,” and write “Because it allows for sovereignty over protection of citizens’ health and human rights and managing the safety of children, we are in support of the current system.” They also declare that the Ministry of Health and Welfare’s policy is also in accordance with the demands by many parents for stronger management of foreign teachers, and they use the results of the July 2010 survey by the Prime Minister’s Office to support this. They also make a request: “However, we ask that you should be vigilant against the distortions of some native speaking teacher groups who will express their discontent regarding this policy. [...] Ministry of Health and Welfare, do not by blinded/ fooled by them.” december 2010/GROOVE KOREA/19
info
KEB targets expatriates with English services Even as Seoul becomes more foreigner-friendly, simple things such as opening an account, obtaining a credit card or comparing interest rates can pose a serious challenge to non-Korean speakers. The problem is magnified by Korea’s labyrinthine banking policies. 20/GROOVE KOREA/december 2010
Senior Manager Park Yong-jin of KEB’s PR Division Hoping to remedy such conditions, Korea Exchange Bank launched a full-fledged unit called the Foreign Customer Department to offer specialized products and services to expats and foreignowned businesses in Korea. Since its launch, the department has undertaken several moves to improve the quality of banking for foreigners. These include customized products for foreign customers, special branches to service expats in English and other languages, and specialized training for branch staff. In 2008, KEB formally set up the Foreign Customer Department with the intent to move away from the one-size-fits-all approach of dealing with foreign customers. One of the department’s first moves was to train its foreign customer-service staff — who were carefully selected from a pool of bilingual, experienced personnel — in foreign cultures, foreign banking customs and foreign-customer oriented products and service philosophy. In Korea today, foreigners hail from over 150 countries, each with its own banking environment. Hence, one of the key challenges for the bank was to bridge expatriates’ expectations gap between the banking systems of their home countries and the one found here. These special staffs were then assigned to 18 newly created, specialized branches — called
Global Desks — located in areas like Itaewon, Hannam-dong, and Gangnam, home to a large number of resident or working expats. KEB has since increased the number of Global Desks to 22 (for a complete list, visit KEB’s Web site: www.keb.co.kr/english). KEB was the first Korean bank to launch an Expat Savings Account — a Korean won account with an English passbook and a check card accepted worldwide. The account comes with other benefits as well, such as preferential currency exchange rates, reduced ATM fees and accident insurance. Recognizing that overseas credit cards incur higher fees abroad, KEB added a new line of credit cards for its expat customers under the “Expat Card” brand. These cards offer a range of benefits, including discounts at restaurants, gas stations and amusement parks, airline mileage points, free valet parking at hotels, 24-hour travel accident insurance, and overseas emergency services. The bank also upgraded its English Web site and introduced multilingual ATMs, which offer services in 17 languages. The bank also operates 24/7 English-language call centers staffed with trained personnel who can handle just about any query, from Internet Banking setup to product information. Noticing that some expatriates prefer Apple computers, KEB launched online banking for the Mac.
december 2010/GROOVE KOREA/21
makeover series PART 3
I fixed my teeth.
makeover series PART 3
Finally! By David adam
I finally did it. After 16 years of waiting, this 32-year-old
English teacher decided it was time to do something about his teeth.
I wasn’t embarrassed about my teeth, but I always wanted to improve them. My teeth were crowded in the front where it is the most visible so I decided there were a lot of good reasons to go ahead and do something about it. It’s not as if people come up to you and tell you, you have bad teeth or suggest to you that you should do something about it. Even your closest friends wouldn’t dare say something to you about it.They might not care that much about what your teeth look like but your potential mate or next job interview might. Let’s face it, people always find excuses or just love to procrastinate. I always hesitated for several reasons. First, I was into a lot of sports and didn’t want to cut my mouth on the braces all the time. My older brother had braces and would get a bloody mouth or just cut his lip on his braces for random reasons. Everyone I knew always seemed to complain about the feeling, cutting or just getting junk stuck in them all the time. Second, I couldn’t be bothered with the extra care and time it takes to brush and floss with braces on. Most people have a hard time flossing as often as they should. And having to do it with the special tool and threading it through your braces… Come on, I wasn’t about to go through that hassle. Lastly, and in large part the reason I didn’t get braces, is cost.They are just too expensive back home in Canada. After researching the price of having it done in Korea, though, I decided to walk into Dr. Lee Jin-min’s office at Yonsei Miplus Dental Clinic for a consultation. She was clear in her explanation of the process – what needed to be done, what to expect, how long it would take, and of course the cost of the treatment. It was at that time that I decided to sign on the dotted line and begin treatment. The 1st step of the treatment is taking pictures for the impressive before and
22/GROOVE KOREA/december 2010
Dr. Lee Jin-min
after
before
after shots. Followed by an imYou end up wearing a retainer for pression of my teeth. This part another few months at first and feels weird, but it’s painless. They then only for sleeping. It took me mix up a batch of what looks like about a year. Of course, times soft clay and put it into retainers vary. But I was surprised by how which you bite into and hold for quickly it can be done. before after about 3 minutes. After you clean The funny thing about havup the bits off your cheeks, you’re ing straight teeth is that only free to go home. now do I realize I never smiled Then about 4 days later I got confidently in pictures. I always my 1st set of aligners and some preferred not to smile. Now The price is anywhere from 30 percent to 40 work done on my teeth to insure without even thinking about it proper fit and avoid damaging I smile and say “kimchi” for the percent less then I would pay back home. my teeth. The way they get your cameras. I don’t think I used to teeth to move without chipping or cracking your other teeth is by slen- hide my smile during conversations or when I was laughing. It wasn’t derizing (shaving your teeth) just a tiny bit. It doesn’t hurt and not enough much of an issue. But subconsciously it probably was. I definitely feel enamel is taken off to damage your teeth. This is a standard practice, so that I smile more now, and overall I feel more comfortable smiling and don’t worry. showing my teeth. The retainers feel weird at first, and hurt a little. But the great part I’m back in Canada now and people definitely notice and comment about the clear liners is that you can take them out for a bit when it hurts about how nice my teeth are. I always smile comfortably and confidently. too much or when it’s just too uncomfortable.Within three days the pain I’ll tell you one thing – I definitely notice people’s teeth a lot more now and discomfort are gone. It feels like wearing a mouth guard. Do people that I have had my teeth corrected. I think anyone who has gone through notice it? Yes and no. If you are close enough people might notice, but at the trouble of fixing his teeth definitely pays more attention to other a normal distance most don’t. people’s teeth. From then on I had monthly visits to receive the next set or new I would tell any of my friends to try clear aligners over braces, espealigners, which I wore for about two weeks each. At the beginning of cially if you’re in Korea. the treatment there are more adjustments to make to your teeth but The price is anywhere from 30 percent to 40 percent less then I would as time goes on the adjustments are smaller and fewer. The fist two or pay back home.And why shouldn’t you go home to your friends and famthree days of the each new set of aligners cause some discomfort, which ily with a new smile? Face it, most of us end up in Korea for two years is normal, but I could just remove the aligners for a few minutes which anyways, and in my case it only took a year to complete the treatment. helped ease the pain. The only regret I have is not having started the treatment soon.This is When you are all done, the last step is to install a small wire on the something that should have been done years ago. back of your teeth to insure they will not shift back to their old position. Thank you for everything, Dr.Lee. december 2010/GROOVE KOREA/23
movies
By Daniel joseph Vorderstrasse
December 2
The Switch Jennifer Aniston, Jason Bateman
December 9
Buried Ryan Reynolds Nowhere Boy Aaron Johnson, Kristin Scott Thomas The Tourist Angelina Jolie, Johnny Depp The Chronicles of Narnia: The Voyage of the Dawn Treader Ben Barnes, Skandar Keynes
A Bloody Aria (구타유발자들) The consequences of current actions and their unforeseen future impact are examined in this graphic adventure flick. Not for the faint of heart, A Bloody Aria takes on the subject of abuse, abusers and ultimately its overlying impact as the violent cycle processes between all parties involved. Budding new opera talent, In-jeong (Cha Ye-ryeon), travels with her image-obsessed professor Young-sun (Lee Byeong-jun) through the rolling mountains of Korea’s countryside.Young-sun, a man with little regard for rules and regulations approaches his protégé in a deceivingly advancing nature, ending in a surprisingly unsuccessful attempt, so he turns to a more aggressive approach, and attempts to assault the young starlet. In the most desolate wilderness, she breaks free from her captor in and seeks shelter in the deserted parts. As time passes, local miscreants convene to participate in their usual devilish deeds when the professor shifts roles from the perpetrator to the victim. Joining the festivities, In-jeong is reunited with her former attacker, but he is now the least of her problems. While the local, troubled youth bully a fellow student, their ringleader Bongyeon (Lee Moon-sik) takes control and thrusts multiple, sadistic mind-games upon his tormented audience. As events unfold and violence escalates, the tormented are constantly subjected to increasing embarrassment by their obscenely psychotic captor. Seemingly everyone involved in this twisted script will evoke little sympathy outside of the aspiring In-jeong. Almost all play their entertaining games when they hold power over another, but then seek compassion when being controlled by another aggressor. The script is not horrible and the movie does contain an underlying theme, which is evident, but lacks any sense of a gripping nature. One can easily fade in and out of the movie because at times there is no character to empathize with; it seems to be a simple brawl between thugs. Ultimately, after two hours of graphic psychoanalyzing, the lesson concludes leaving viewers slightly disappointed and certainly not aspiring for another rendition along similar lines. 24/GROOVE KOREA/december 2010
Midnight FM (심야의 FM)
Outspoken DJ Go Sun-young (Su Ae) has entertained nightly listeners for the past five years. Now, seeking medical procedures to help her sick daughter, she will embark on a journey to America and take a break from her passionate audience. When an unidentified listener phones the studio presenting an ultimatum, an ominous feeling presents itself. This avid fan will determine the final show’s course and any detour from his intended listening pleasure will result in the death of Sun-young’s family. Presented with few options, Sun-young concedes to his wishes and the desperate struggle to keep composure and save her family begins. The conclusion to a radio show that has brought pleasure and beauty to so many listeners has taken a tragic turn under the direction of a shameless murderer, Han Dong-su (Yu Ji-tae), leaving pandemonium as the only likely outcome. An intriguing chase ensues, Presented with few leaving Sun-young at the mercy of options, Sun-young her family’s captor where she will concedes to his wishes have to endure constant emotional and the desperate struggle to keep stress and subject herself to this composure and save psychopath’s vicious intentions. her family begins. The movie contains a plethora of intriguing chase scenes seemingly heading into testosterone-overdrive in some instances, but will grip the viewer, anxiously anticipating the next cliffhanger. The fast-paced, ‘bballi-bballi’ cinematics enthrall the audience for virtually the duration of the film, which could be a little excessive for some. If you are planning on having a calm, relaxing viewing experience, this may not be the movie for you. If you are seeking an amped-up, go-big-or-go-home experience, then seek no further. Midnight FM presents a stereotypical thriller genre movie leaving the viewers on the edges of their seats waiting for the next epic twist, so don’t expect to be shocked or experience a revelation by an underlying fable or philosophical message. On the contrary, just expect to be entertained with your daily dose of special effects fulfilled, and then some.
December 15
Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows: Part 1 Daniel Radcliffe, Emma Watson
December 16
The Last Station Helen Mirren, Christopher Plummer, Paul Giamatti
December 30
TRON: Legacy Jeff Bridges, Garrett Hedlund
books
By groove staff
Military History Award Goes to Book on ‘Forgotten War’ On the eve of Remembrance Day, a book on Britain’s bloodiest - but almost completely unknown - post-1945 battle won the inaugural Hampshire Libraries (Special Collections) Award for the Best Military Book of 2009. A bold new reappraisal of the Battle of the Somme was runner up. From a list of 60 titles, Andrew Salmon’s “To the Last Round: The Epic British Stand on the Imjin River, Korea, 1951” (Aurum) won first prize from a field of 60 key military titles, followed by William Philpott’s “Bloody Victory: The Sacrifice on the Somme.” Highly commended mentions went to Anthony Beevor’s “D-Day and the Battle for Normandy” and Andrew Roberts’ “The Storm of War.” “In a list of very strong military books, this is an excellent book, which well-deserves the winning award,” said renowned broadcaster and military historian professor Richard Holmes, the patron of the award. “The excellence of this book came to me as a complete surprise,” said judging panel chair General Sir Christopher Wallace of “To the Last Round.” “The author addresses a subject about which
most people, including myself, previously knew little; it was the judges’ unanimous decision to award this book as the outright winner.” The award, sponsored by military publisher Osprey, was designed to highlight Andrew Salmon the three “armed services” collections - aviation, naval and military - in Hampshire Libraries. The military collection alone boasts 18, 000 titles. The winning author, a Seoul-based reporter, sent an acceptance speech filmed on the Imjin battleground, where the 1951 British positions remain fortified to this day against the North Korean threat. The author was represented at the event by Sam Mercer, a veteran of the Gloster battalion annihilated on the Imjin, and a survivor of the grim North Korean POW camps. A chance meeting with Mercer, who lost a leg and an eye in the fighting, provided Salmon with the inspiration for his book. “This book should have been written many years ago,” said Mercer. “At last, Andrew Salmon has done us, the 29th Brigade, proud”.
In April 1951, 29th Infantry Brigade faced off against China’s entire 63rd Army for three nights of battle, outnumbered 7:1. With this year marking the 60th anniversary of the outbreak of the Korean War, the prize held special significance for the author. “I’d like to thank the award panel for recognizing an unknown author writing about a forgotten war,” Salmon said. “Though Korea remains the biggest, bloodiest and most brutal conflict fought by British soldiers since World War II, it is almost completely unknown in the UK; I hope this award will bring veterans some long-overdue recognition.” More Britons fell fighting the Chinese “human wave” in Korea than have been killed in the Falklands, Iraq and Afghan conflicts combined, Salmon noted. Many veterans - some, still traumatized, sleep with their lights on to this day - are bitter at the lack of recognition the war receives in the U.K. Salmon and filmmakers Dan Gordon and Howard Reid are hoping to create a documentary on “To the Last Round.” The author is currently finalizing a prequel, “Scorched Earth, Black Snow,” which covers Australian and British soldiers in Korea in 1950, the most dramatic - but most terrible - months of the war. It will be published by Aurum in early 2011.
kofongli sh t he mont h
email your entries to: info@groovekorea.com
groove korea
26/GROOVE KOREA/december 2010
GROOVe with seoulvibes
Who is your favorite DJ?
Depends what mood I’m in really, but if I was faced with a situation where I could only attend gigs played by one DJ for the rest of my life, I’d go with Lee Burridge.
Who is your favorite resident DJ in Asia?
Aldrin (Zouk, Singapore). He used to be a full-time resident and now just does a monthly night there. One of the most underrated DJs in the world in my opinion.
What DJ consistently rocks it out when he/she comes to Korea? In the late 1990s electronic music made its presence felt on the peninsula. The scene in those days was one of clandestine clubs and massive one-offs hosted by a few production companies. The most consistent and professional -Sickboy Productions- not only brought in quality artists, but matched them to venues that would compliment their style. Their most noteworthy blowouts are listed below: •
Doc Martin at NB and the soju sunrise
•
Shem McCauley and the aftermath at the Basement
•
Sasha putting Kayagum Hall on the clubbing map
•
Derrick Carter at Escada noted in DJ MAG
•
John Digweed at the Hilton and the rum hangovers
•
Lee Burridge’s marathon set at MWG
•
Fatboy Slim at the Marriott with riot police anxiously waiting outside
•
Desyn Masiello at Matmata ushering in the BIGdjSMALL room nights
•
Dimitri on the 55th floor of Star Tower
•
Infusion unleashing mayhem at M2
•
Paul Van Dyk’s countless appearances confirming to all that the morning was no longer calm.
Sickboy events are sketched into the collective clubbing memory of anyone who attended and those who remain in the scene. Although dissolved many years ago one of its founders, Robb Harker, is still active and his impact on dance culture is unrivaled in the region.
Miss Nine. She’s not the biggest name I work with and she doesn’t draw the biggest crowd but she really connects with her audience and kills it every time she plays here.
Why do you think electro seems to be the genre of choice in asia?
I’d say it has to do with the average age of kids in clubland these days. I’m not sure if I’d go so far as to call it the genre of choice, as the whole Dirty Dutch sound is massive, as is the Swedish House sound. These genres all seem to play off of remixes of older classic tracks. Without meaning to disrespect this generation of clubbers, I don’t think they are as musically educated as past generations; hence their tendency to like a more commercial sound.The kids want to hear tracks with hooks and samples they recognize. In Seoul, the scene is very alcohol driven and I think these styles of music lend themselves more to booze than other deeper, darker styles of music.
What distinguishes the club scene in Korea from other markets in the world?
Koreans do love to party. They may not be the most educated in terms of knowing what they are listening to, but they are very reactive to the music and this makes it a fun place for DJs to play. I tour regularly with my acts and Korea is usually the place with the highest energy and one of the highlights of each tour.
Are the cover and drink prices in Korea realistic to the market place?
Comparable to other parts of Asia, prices are quite high in Seoul but for the most part I think this is realistic for this market. There are loads of venues playing electronic music to choose from in this city. Some venues charge more than others so clubbers can select what sort of budget level they want to be partying at. Also keep in mind the overhead to keep some of the bigger clubs going is incredibly high so their prices have to reflect this.
Do you feel that sponsors help or hinder the scene?
Help, definitely. Promoters and venues would not be able to afford some of the fees charged by international acts if they didn’t have sponsorship support.
How can promoters/venues improve as a whole?
Promoters are like politicians; your success is relative to the strength of your base. You develop a solid base by putting on consistently good events and taking care of your crowd. Not all promoters/venues here realize this but the ones that do are the ones that stand out.
What are the positives that exist in the scene?
Unlike other parts of Asia, the scene in Korea has grown slowly and steadily. It has a solid foundation and this gives it staying power. Korea’s all about trends but even if there is a dip in the popularity of clubbing, the foundation will allow it to survive until it is ‘in’ again.
What are the negatives that exist in the scene?
The whole club scene still has this sense of taboo. While this attracts many people to it in the first place, news stories which associate clubs with drugs or overtly public displays of affection give the scene a bad rap. I think this hinders the growth of the scene to a certain extent. Also, while electronic music is considered a major industry in Europe, it’s yet to be considered a commercially viable sound in Korea.
What changes need to be made for the scene to improve? I’d love to say lose the politics, but politics exist in every scene, be it big or small. Best just to figure out how to navigate them. In Seoul, more focus should be directed at local producers and providing a platform for them to release their music. An electronic radio station, or at least a station that dedicates a couple of hours/day to electronic music would also help. Getting some playtime on television would benefit the scene. Virtually every other country in the world has programs dedicated to electronic music. They expose new artists, new music and offer event coverage and promotion. I guess the powers that be don’t feel there’s a big enough audience for this kind of program but I think if they took the risk they’d be surprised how many people would start tuning in.
Which Korean DJs do you feel have a chance to make it on the international stage?
Mang Esilo’s just put out an artist album, which is really good. He and his partner Unjin make up East Collective and I think if they got the right break they could make it.
Who is a rising star that you hope to sign with your agency?
Well ‘hope’ isn’t the right word as I’ve recently signed them, but definitely Avicii and Afrojack. Afrojack has signed with Supermodified while Avicii is on board for a new agency I’m co-launching called Eastern Entertainment. Both of these artists are already making waves and the future looks great for them.
What can we expect to see from Supermodified?
We are partnering with a European agency called Urbania to launch Eastern Entertainment. This new agency will be focusing on live contemporary and urban acts, but will also be booking DJs. It’s more on the commercial side but it’s fixing to be an interesting project.
What has been the most hilarious thing you have witnessed backstage? What happens backstage stays backstage.
Robb Harker’s name is synonymous with hard work amongst the electronic music fraternity and his toil has resulted in some of the best artists in the EDM scene gracing the decks from Seoul to Busan. Once a legendary promoter he has spawned his company into one of the most respected agencies in the world. Amidst the saturation of beats that exists one can be assured that the Supermodified logo represents more than a company, but rather a legacy and a stamp of quality. It is certain that Eastern Entertainment will only further Harker’s contribution to unimaginable levels across Asia.
This is a column dedicated to electronic music in Korea. Our aim is to give Groove Korea readers: interviews and updates on what is happening on the peninsula. Feel free to contact the links below for information on clubs, DJs, or events! seoulvibes@gmail.com | www.myspace.com/seoulvibes | www.soundcloud.com/seoulvibes ASIA
28/GROOVE KOREA/december 2010
december 2010/GROOVE KOREA/29
music
Don’t miss out on the chance to explore Space Rhyme Continuum’s wild universe Friday Dec. 19t at Sunny’s bar in Ilsan, and also during the Dripan community art walk being held on Dec. 4 in Yongsan-gu.
GoodAssMusic Presents:
something fresh
‘We want to be both dirty and intellectual’ By Mark Kleinhaus Photo by Dylan Goldby
to the party scene! Project Kyungnidan brings the feel of clubbing to an intimate nook of the city. 4 different styles of music at 4 venues, all just steps from door to door. DJs at each venue will be laying down sick beats all night! Free cover before 11PM
Sock It To Me is the newest funk party to hit the city. DJs and B-Boys will fill the cavernous venue 500 with artistic energy. Be creative with your socks since shoes and attitudes are checked at the door! Free cover before 11PM
Space Rhyme Continuum is a combination of comedy and hip hop freestyle magic, but make no mistake about where the group’s allegiance lies. “We’re emcees first,” says James Hershberger, aka “The Naughty Rooster.” A common respect for the history of hip-hop, talent, and true rap artistry is what ties the members together in their unusual collaboration. Influences range from Digable Planets and the Roots to Pharcyde, Kool G, and Nas. Their love of the music goes way back. “I was the only person in my high school who was both the freestyle champion and on the honor roll,” Hershberger said. Their DJ and producer, Roger Won Wong, who currently hosts a radio show, grew up in the studio. In fact, they had a lot to say about the state of rap both in Korea and abroad. “It says a lot when Korean artists leave their country to perform in places like Japan,” says Wong. “Although things are improving, hip-hop is generally not respected here.” There was a general consensus about the lack of respect for hiphop in America, too, as evidenced by the rise of gangsta rap and the dumbing-down of lyrics. “Hip hop is poetry and story based. Too many artists these days sing about girls, drugs, alcohol, throwing money around the clubs; nothing the average person can relate to,” said Wong. With that being said, current and intelligent delivery is a key theme among members. Space Rhyme strive to stay topical and present themselves in an intelligent way each time they hit the stage. In fact, expect a G20 spoof in the act very soon, among others. It’s not all seriousness though. Space Rhyme is well known for their riotously hilarious live performances, chiefly based on their uniquely talented abilities to compose an impromptu story based on audience participation. 30/GROOVE KOREA/december 2010
One popular act is the Anti-Battle, where the members must diss themselves and praise their opponent, based on a subject chosen by the audience. Things can get quite raunchy and x-rated as well. In one of Space Rhyme’s superhero sketches, audience members must choose a power for the “superhero.” In that instance, “Captain Strong Dick” was chosen, and Hershberger, the appointed villain, chose the “Dick Shrinker” as his alias. Although performances can swing to the dark side often, they’re careful to strike a balance. “We want to be both dirty and intellectual,” says Hershberger. It’s this balance of humor that’s partly responsible for their mutable appeal. “One of the best moments I’ve ever had,” continues Hershberger, “is when someone came up to me and said, ‘I hate rap, but loved you guys.’” This universal charm has led to awards from events like the Busan International Performing Arts Festival and opportunities to perform internationally; the Edinburgh Fringe Festival and the Frontera Festival among the events scheduled for next year. Their desire to entertain is in part driven by original member Pestalance, currently in America fulfilling his military duties. “No Rules” is an early motto established by the gifted emcee, and one that continues to be important with each and every live show. Additional members include Brooklyn Bomb, their official beatboxer. Without a doubt, in person is the only way to catch their genrebreaking entertainment. Hershberger sums it up: “No matter what direction we take, live shows are key; they’re our bread and butter.” Mark Kleinhaus currently lives in Seoul and plays with Sighborggg (www.myspace.com/sighborg). He can be reached at mkleinhaus@gmail.com.
There are few promotion companies that are truly motivated by music and not their pocket books. GoodAssMusic has been an integral part of the scene for several years now and keeps doing what ever it takes to maintain the underground. While most venues are interested in playing commercial mainstream dance music, serving expensive drinks and catering to their sponsors; the
underground is where experimental sounds break trends, where vintage and fresh beats are combined to challenge the audience and to please the ear of discerning listeners. GoodAssMusic events have steadily held it down proving that great music and popular music aren’t always equal, funk will always be great party music, and that Hip Hop can still be an honest art form!
(www.GoodAssMusic.com) december 2010/GROOVE KOREA/31
music
Upcoming shows
on sparrow hills By Bill Packard Photo by Justin Maceachern
Talk to enough expats across the peninsula and sooner or later you’ll hear one or both of the following complaints: “Expat bands aren’t any good.” “Expat bands just play cover songs.” As ill-informed as these complaints might seem to those in the know, there might be a grain of truth to them if you frequent the kind of establishment that, well, books only cover bands. A quick tour of the oft-packed and always lively Hongdae live music venues quickly dispels any thought of cover bands however; the sheer amount and variety of original music being played on any given night will give even the most skeptical bar-goers hope. Seoul’s original music scene is more potent than ever, expat bands with professional or damn-nearOn Sparrow professional musicians producing new music Hills are working and developing followings of Korean and to set up shows Western fans alike. The gentlemen of On in Busan, Daegu, Gwangju Sparrow Hills are at the forefront of this and other Korean locales movement, playing packed venues with an sooner than later. Shows intensity and urgency that must be seen in China, Taiwan, and Japan to be believed. a hefty amount of multi-faceted musiare in the works for 2011. Having played with band favorite Do cal talent is on display at every show as If you would like to see On Make Say Think, as well as countless these jobs are switched, sometimes for Sparrow Hills in your town; shows with other local forward thinking the song and sometimes, perhaps, just to drop them a line at artists like Vuldulgi OoyoO, We Need Surkeep things interesting. onsparrowhills gery, Sssighborggggg, Mineri, Frenzy,WagWak, With four members hailing from various @gmail.com Demian the Band, Yours, and just about every pristine Canadian locales and one solitary other “indie” band working in Seoul today, the American, On Sparrow Hills now features a members of On Sparrow Hills can now lay legitibass player who doubles on organ, a drummer, mate claim to being one of Seoul’s loudest, most and three guitarists. Although the members ambitious, and most creative bands. On Sparrow Hills have one have been known to switch jobs from time to time, most nights’ album already released, two to three shows scheduled almost every show-goers will experience Adam Brennan, Josh Shell, and Matty weekend, several EPs planned throughout the rest of this year and Netzke playing complex, layered guitar parts while sharing lead singer next, and another full-length album to come shortly thereafter. duties, Evan Yerburgh’s throbbing bass and organ, and Brad Wheeler’s All of this hard work has paid dividends though, as anyone who’s at- gorilla strength but tight drumming. Most of the members have been tended an On Sparrow Hills live show will attest to.The band handles parts of other Seoul-scene bands in the past and the wide variety of complex song arrangements with a deftness and ease that belies the influences they share has a clear effect on their sound. staggering amount of practice time that surely must have been inTrying to describe the sound of any band is typically an exercise in volved. This current level of sonic zeal didn’t come easily; originally futility, but in a review of their first album “The Sitting Choir” (still having formed in 2009 the band went through several incarnations ever-so-generously available for free via a quick visit to the band’s with drummers, keyboard players and tambourinists coming and go- Bandcamp page); Baily from the R.O.K. Scene website came up with ing for reasons unknown. The growing pains were all worthwhile something quite accurate -- “Post-Punk in a massive Cathedral.” With however, for as the current (and more permanent) lineup has settled a heavy dash of reverb the spacious guitars and vocals fit the catheinto their roles over the past year. They have begun to expand upon dral-like description perfectly but the Post-Punk labeling may be a their sound with a growing collection of vintage organs, synthesiz- bit too narrow to do them justice anymore. Newer tracks show a ers and a treasure trove of effect units and guitars to draw upon. In heavier reliance on melody and sonic texture than their earlier efcontrast to the reverb explosions of early On Sparrow Hills’s work, forts displayed. Nods to the Beach Boys, My Bloody Valentine, David the new material is composed of leaner, weirder, carefully arranged, Bowie, as well as a devotion to new sounds and albums from the ever rock n roll songs. deeper pool of records the band possess inspire and give shape to the Music heads will often say that one of the most amazing things chaos of the song writing progress of this band. about watching any band is the interaction that goes on during the A lot of bands in Seoul play good music, but there are few bands show, the sometimes-playful and sometimes-technical on-stage inter- in Seoul that play with the frenetic intensity of On Sparrow Hills. play between members that shows how well the band understands Certainly, if life in Korea teaches us anything it’s that nothing stays the and works with each other, as well as how much fun is being had. On same for long and as the band members have recently had an engageSparrow Hills is a wonder in this regard, as any given show will see the ment, a newborn and a wedding between them, it might be prudent members switching lead singer duties on every other track and swap- to get busy and get out to one of their shows to see what the buzz ping instrument roles often as well. No strangers to experimentation, is about.
32/GROOVE KOREA/december 2010
FOuR TET
December 5 - CLUB VERA By Reed Lariski The schedule of events for December begins on the 5th at Club Vera with KEIRAN HEBDAN, a musician who manipulates each sonographic element in every one of his tracks, while fabricating an ambience worthy of wave-lengthing with free-for-all-fluid-jazz. Along with KEIRANHEBDAN is a mainstream success story, otherwise known as FOUR TET, a musician who continues to adhere to a law of indie music integrity, even through his expansive publicity; being featured in the New York Times, BBC Radio and Pitchfork Magazine while touring throughout the entirety of Europe, Asia, America, Canada, South America and Australia. FOUR TET’s music consists of aural playgrounds and ferris wheels of sampling with jazz beats folded into undertones of folktronica strewn along with the swiveling-head-bopping spine of techno-beats, all while trying to work in a compartmentalizing conscious. Anyone attempting to specifically place a phalange on this particularly elusive style would be subjected to running up a vertical hillin a headstand when it comes to this international prodigy.
sUPER sKETCH!
December 11 - Theatre zero By Reed Lariski Post FOUR TET, the booking extravaganza SUPER COLOR SUPER charges the dwindling days December with an event that basks in the reverie of the right brained with SUPER SKETCH!, where artistic talent intertwines with the growing independent music scene to percolate a performance that transcends the traditional cultural archetype of a singularly structured concert. With three 90’s-reminiscent classroom-projectors revamped to be utilized to reflect live-action art from the expansive talent of local artists (from watercolor wonders to invigorating and conceptual OHP film fantasies) which will be complimented by the haunt of shadow creatures of the night which creep from the ceiling while all the while the entire space is filled to the brim with the sweet sounds of the creative musical aptitude from the musicians locale. SUPER COLOR SUPER presents the second installment of SUPER SKETCH! inside of the spacious and outer-space venue, THEATRE ZERO of KOPAS (Korean Performing Art Spirit), located directly behind the Hongdae Children’s Park landmark.
supercolorsuper.com december 2010/GROOVE KOREA/33
music Coamorous
at Spazio Luce By Garan Fitzgerald It’s Monday, December 6th. You’re still feeling the twilight effects of Thanksgiving mixed with the surging excitement that is the upcoming remainder of the holiday season. There are upcoming parties, gatherings, and social events beyond number on your horizon. However, right now you’re bored, overfed, over-boozed and inexplicably feeling the urge to do something. Perhaps you have someone special you’d like to take on this exciting adventure. Then again, maybe you’re still searching. And yet, you’ve just gotten off work. Maybe you’d like to wander into your local watering hole or curl up on your couch and watch some reruns of “Lost.” Let me offer an alternative suggestion. In a city of music where hard rockers, caustic punks, and spinning DJs can literally rub elbows on the subway with performers of the higher-brow and often more culturally enriching Classical Arts, it always surprises me how rarely I hear of my friends and acquaintances going out to see classical performances. Rarer still do I hear of the aforementioned denizens of Seoul going to see performers they personally know in an environment where they can be fairly certain their dates/hangers-on won’t fall asleep in a haze of unseasonably warm environs, stringy instruments, and snoring geriatrics (unless they’ve brought their lunches… that always keeps them awake). Enter your alternative to an evening of brews or Hugos: Coamorous Oriental Tango Project and their upcoming December 6th performance at Spazio Luce, a new performing arts venue and Italian restaurant located just past the International Clinic in Itaewon.They’ll be performing a mixture of classic, pop, and Nuevo tango pieces composed by Piazzolla, Gardel, Rodriguez, and more. Ladies and Gentlemen, bring out your dates and give them an excuse to dress to the nines while taking in some culture. Let Coamorous and Spazio Luce set the mood and stage for an evening that won’t soon be forgotten. • To find out more about please visit www.coamorous.com • Tickets for this performance include a buffet dinner. They can be reserved in person or by phone at: Spazio Luce Seoul-si Yongsan-gu Hannam-dong 737-61 • Telephone : 02 794 5646 | Website: www.spzluce.com
ROK for Christmas in Korea 2010 ROK’s annual toy-drive and concert series continues in 2010. All December, participating venues will accept new, unwrapped toys, clothes and other nice gifts for needy orphans around the Seoul area. The week before Christmas, there will be a four-day event to finish it off. Last year, volunteers took the gifts that were collected to an orphanage in Bucheon on Christmas day, and spent a few hours with the kids. Organizers hope to arrange something similar this year. There will be nights of live music, prizes and good cheer. Some of the acts confirmed are: • Sticky Fingers • DND • Josh Roy • The Frills Thrills Burlesque Revue • Eric Miller • Hodge Kim Crux • Jennifer Waescher 34/GROOVE KOREA/december 2010
More acts are confirmed every day. This will be the 6th Christmas event ROK has put on. Last month, they hosted ROK for Cheong-ju, and in the following week, ROK for Movember. So far, they have raised over 20 million won.There have been dozens of people who’ve been involved in every way possible in these events over the years. • Thursday Dec. 16 - Cafe Nicolia (Bucheon) • Friday Dec. 17 - The Park (Bucheon) • Sat-Sun Dec. 18 -19 - Roofers (Itaewon) If you are unable to come to the performances, please drop by any of the venues with gifts you would like to donate to Seoul’s orphans. For more information on venues and musical lineups, search for “ROK for Christmas in Korea 2010” on Facebook.
The Camarata Music Company Presents:
Handel’s Messiah by Summer Walker
‘Tis the season for music, philanthropy, children and church. The Camarata Music Company, founded by Ryan Goessl, is hosting its second annual performance of Handel’s Messiah on December 18th. The professional quality of the orchestra and choir as well as the popularity of the music make the event one of the most highly anticipated of the year. Messiah is quite possibly the most famous, as well as most popular, choral oratorio in the world. Originally performed in 1742 for Easter, it has since become a tradition to sing at Christmas. Even the most unschooled audience member will recognize the Hallelujah Chorus. “It is full of the hope and joy most appropriate to this season, tempered with the thoughtfulness that comes at the end of the year.” CMC is a non-profit organization that, along with providing high quality classical music, performs with people from many different countries and cultures, also has an outreach program that buys instruments for less fortunate children, teaching them to play music—all free of charge. The company is 1 year old and a registered non-profit organization, with members from 27 different nations. The 60-strong volunteer choir has four or five performances a year, and has been working every Sunday since September to put on the best possible Messiah. Goessl says, “The choir has improved every single concert, they sound amazing. … The people that attended last year will be amazed at the comparison.” The production also includes professional soloists: Myoung-Sung Han (soprano), Min-Jung Shin (alto), Bong-Su Kang (tenor), and Ryan Goessl himself (baritone). It is particularly worth mentioning that the guest conductor is none other than 88-year-old Weston Nobel. Mr. Noble is a charter member of the American Choral Directors Association and an elected member of the American Bandmaster’s Association. He has conducted Messiah over 500 times and is coming all the way from Iowa. “Weston was my choir and conducting professor at my undergrad university, Luther College,” says Goessl, “He Is my mentor, and I learned more from him in the four years when we talked and had lunch together than from anywhere else.” Last year, attendance at Messiah was standing room only, so guests are encouraged to purchase tickets in advance. Foreign ambassadors are often seen at CMC concerts, but the specials guest this year will be a group of orphans and less fortunate children who will be given tickets for free. Saturday, December 18, 7:30 p.m. Special preconcert performance by Seoul International School’s junior choir, starting at 6:45. Chungdong first Methodist Church, City Hall station, Exit 2, across from the Seoul art museum. It is the oldest church in Korea. • • • •
Tickets are 15,000 won in advance and 25,000 won at the door. Call 010-9806-8655 (English) / 010-2751-9675 (한) E-mail Director Ryan Goessl at goesslry@gmail.com Visit www.camaratamusic.com for more information
“8wimmingdoll” is out now and can be purchased at Swimmingdoll concerts or at Hyang Music in Sinchon. For more information, visit www.myspace.com/ bandswimmingdoll
Swimmingdoll BY SHAWN DESPRES | WWW.KOREAGIGGUIDE.COM
Seoul shoegaze and experimental music trio Swimmingdoll seem to have trouble keeping guitar players. In the last yearand-a-half, female members Motherdoll (synthesizer, piano, and vocals) and Vanillacoke (bass and drums) have worked with three different male guitarists. Are the ladies really that hard to get along with? “I don’t think so,” offers Vanillacoke. “Motherdoll and I have opposite personalities, but we have the same taste in music. We are definitely good partners for Swimmingdoll.” So why all the lineup changes? Well, it turns out the gents split because of other commitments, not because they were being ganged up on by Motherdoll and Vanillacoke. “Our first guitar player was named Zeroway,” shares Vanillacoke. “He was a great guitarist, but he couldn’t combine his work career with being in a band. “Swimmingdoll’s second guitar player was named Hyoje. He also plays in a band called Segyemollakgam and is our recording engineer. He was more interested in being our engineer and his full-time job also changed leaving him with less time, so he left the band in the summer.” Taking over for Hyoje, guitarist Mingue joined Swimmingdoll this past July after responding to an advertisement Vanillacoke posted on a local Internet forum called “Shoegazers Not Dead.” It was a fitting way to find him as Vanillacoke and Motherdoll first met online as well. They were both part of a community that focuses on music programming. After a few computer chats between the two, Swimmingdoll was formed in January 2008.
Mingue was able to help the act finish their debut EP,“8wimmingdoll.” Self-released at the end of November, most of the six-song effort was written in the spring and summer of 2009. They started recording the disc a year ago and all of the tracks were mixed and mastered by Hyoje and Swimmingdoll. “We wanted to try and reproduce our live sound on the album,” says Vanillacoke. “It was not easy to do and the recordings kept coming out different than our live sound. We spent a long time fixing and rerecording the tracks.” While their early output delved into more dream pop-inspired realms, “8wimmingdoll” is a solid mix of dynamic shoegaze-driven experimental soundscapes. The cut “8” blends melodic guitar with droning noise, “Decret” is a dark, trippy slice of piano chamber pop, and the excellent “The Last Take” incorporates layers of heavily distorted guitar with hypnotic, spacey synthesizer sounds and Motherdoll’s ethereal singing. In late October, Swimmingdoll organized the inaugural night of their Logos concert series. The second Logos will take place before year end. Information about the gig will be posted on Swimmingdoll’s MySpace site in December. The first Logos included four acts (Swimmingdoll, Segyemollakgam, Kohji Isle, and Poe), artwork, food, and wine. “We want to inform more people about shoegaze and experimental music,” explains Vanillacoke. “There are not many shows that combine shoegaze and experimental music so we thought it would be a good experience for like-minded bands and audiences.” The Logos lineups will feature only Seoul acts initially, but Swimmingdoll hope to invite acts from other places as the event grows. “It would be great to bring bands from everywhere – other Korean provinces, small towns in Europe, or even from the North Pole – one day “If people are thirsty for new sounds, we want them to listen to our music and come see our show.” december 2010/GROOVE KOREA/35
art Anthony Rapp by Blake Pfeil I had this gut-wrenching feeling that I had given Anthony Rapp wrong directions. When we agreed on a time and place to meet for an interview, I gave him directions via the Seoul Metro. The morning of the interview, I boarded the 2200 bus in Paju, headed for Seoul, when it suddenly occurred to me: “What if I gave him the wrong directions? A directional technicality is about to ruin my premiere Korean journalistic endeavor.” I wasn’t entirely hopeless: Anthony had my cell number in case of such a catastrophe. When I was introduced to the star of RENT the previous week at my 23rd birthday celebration (coincidentally his 39th birthday celebration), he seemed like a pretty intelligent person. He would call if he got lost. I parked myself outside the Hongkik Unihe dropped out after one semester. Seven versity Metro Station, Exit 5, in Hongdae at years later, he rollerbladed to an audition 1:00 PM. I sat on the base of a stone statue for a little-known show called RENT that outside Holly’s Coffee, watching hundreds His one-man show was to become the vehicle that rocketed of men and women bustle out of the Metro. Without You, based on him to stardom. Upon its 1996 opening at I looked at my phone: 1:03 PM. My worst fear Nederlander Theatre on Broadway, RENT was becoming an even worse reality. 1:05 PM. his memoir of the same changed the face of American musical theMy phone rang, caller ID listing an unknown name, played at the atre and opened the door for a new wave number. I answered. “This is Blake.” Sangsang Art Hall of performers to step into the lights of the A voice responded: “Hi Blake, it’s Anthony. Great White Way. The trains are running a little behind schedule, in Seoul this October. A large chunk of Without You deals with but I’m only a few stops away.” Immediate Rapp’s life during the initial days of RENT anxiety relief. fame when his mother began to experience the most staggering ef“Great, Anthony. I’m parked outside Exit 5. See you in a few.” Minutes later, Anthony Rapp ascended the stairs and approached fects of her battle with cancer. It was also during this time when RENT composer Jonathan Larson unexpectedly died the night beme. “Hi Blake. Sorry about that.” We chatted and made our way a few steps into Hongdae, entering fore RENT’s first Off-Broadway opening. In a poignant section of the a deserted Cafe Crunch. “It’s so quiet in here,” Anthony remarked, show, Rapp seamlessly melds together a medley of RENT material to scanning the empty room from behind those famous thinly-framed guide us through that opening night when the cast came together not specs. His casual demeanor matched his attire: a simple grey v-neck twenty-four hours after Larson’s death to sing tribute to his legacy. To adapt Without You from its book form, director Steve Maler took sweater, blue jeans, and Euro-style sneakers. I asked if he was a coffee or tea drinker. “Tea. Definitely.” Same birthday, same taste in caffeine. the book and condensed it down to about 100 pages from which to We sat down with our tea in hand at a table close to the windows that work. “The show is a totally different animal,” Rapp confirmed. After overlooked the busy street. “Thanks for taking the time to chat with months of working and adapting, the first workshop had its run at Ars Nova in New York. Still a work-in-progress, Rapp feels the show me today, Anthony.” “Thanks for thinking of me,” he said, quietly. Since my days conducting radio interviews with people like Car- is starting to settle into a concrete place. Director Steve Maler exrie Fisher, I’ve found it a somewhat awkward experience interviewing plained that “once a commercial producer is chosen, we will stage the celebrities. I sit down with someone I’ve never met and grill them on last phase production of the piece which will hopefully tour America what I consider incredibly personal matters. Granted, Rapp has noth- and the world.” I asked Rapp about the Korean response to the show. ing to hide: his one-man show Without You, based on his memoir of “There are a few laugh lines that get disregarded, but the overall rethe same name, played at the Sangsang Art Hall in Seoul this October. sponse to the show is the same as it was anywhere else.” Because the show deals with such emotional themes, I was hesitant It chronicles his journey in dealing with the loss of his mother to a to ask Rapp about his mother at all. “Her passing brought a sense of long battle with cancer. Rapp was raised outside of Chicago in Joliet, Illinois. His professional relief because the weeks leading up to it were like a death watch,” career started at age nine as a member of the children’s chorus in Evita. Rapp explained. “It brought her a sense of peace.” When I inquired I was taken aback by his mother’s decision to allow him to pursue his what Rapp wants audiences to take away from the show, he sipped his dreams at such a young age. “My mother pledged to herself that she tea briefly, deep in thought. “My mother used to say that she wished would do nothing but support her children because she came from she’d had more fun in life.” “Anything else?” I thought aloud. such a broken home,” Rapp said, inferring that as the eldest of thirteen, He paused for another moment, tapped his fingers on his tea cup, his mother Mary Lee grew up in an abusive household. He spent his entire childhood in public school while working as an actor: regional and said, “If you lose a parent, you belong to a club. I don’t want to theatre, national tours, a Broadway flop (The Little Prince and the Avia- focus solely on the sad parts of Without You. It’s a celebration. I want people to walk away with the knowledge that if you can survive pertor) and a film (alongside Elisabeth Shue in Adventures in Babysitting.) Rapp made the official move to New York when he enrolled at NYU; sonal loss, you can survive anything.”
interview
36/GROOVE KOREA/december 2010
Abstracting Boundaries Through Art International Artists Community is anything but an exclusive community of expats seeking to promote only the work of fellow foreigners. On the contrary, IAC strives to create an identity by integrating people and genres of art, be it paintings, sculpture, or music. IAC came into existence in November 2009 and seeks to make a name for itself among not only Seoul’s art scene, but strives to make an international impact through artistic expressions. When presented with the opportunity for a group exhibition by a local gallery, Richard J. Beaumont rallied his friends. Afterwards, he ran with the idea of a community of artists who can make an impact on the modern art scene through integration. Since then, five successful group exhibitions have taken place, numerous solo exhibitions by community members have been held, and the group has taken off to include nearly 400 Facebook members encompassing the entire globe. The idea behind the group is not to create a segregated community of expat artists, but rather to integrate Western and Eastern art ideals and merge these ideals into a new style. Current membership stands at about 40 percent Korean and 60 percent Western, and strides are being taken to influence the ebb-and-flow of ideas even more than is currently taking place. Through strengthening the alliances of Western and Korean culture, the community can work towards creating the new style it currently seeks by broadening their horizons via meshing numerous ideas from all walks of art to create an ever-evolving definition. In a way, the group is just another example of merging relations between Koreans and foreigners, but a more specific goal is evident to attempt to enter Seoul into the ranks of significant art realms. The underlying impact of the group on Seoul’s art scene is to generate a fusion art style between the two entities. While encouraging the mix-
ing of ideas, the group is constantly evolving to create a new style, while blurring the boundaries which currently separate Western and Eastern art forms. Artists are asked to cover some of the costs of the exhibitions which take place, so the group’s drive to create this new art form is more passionate than those artists dimly driven by fame and fortune. It is this passion that has seen the group blossom from a single exhibition to a group impacting the Seoul art scene in its short existence as an organization. The next big event IAC will be involved with is the 2010 Charity Art Bazaar/Auction Art For Love, which will be held Saturday, Dec. 4 from 1-6 p.m. at Yongsan Exhibition Hall. Donated art by the artists will be auctioned and proceeds will fund numerous charities to improve the standing of Seoul, and Korea in general. The Charity Art Bazaar/Auction hopes to raise proceeds of 20 million Won, but also seeks to impact people through their presentation of the artwork. For more information Art can impact people just by a simple viewing on the group, or those as each individual can seeking to join, visit escape from the hustle- www.koreaiac.com and-bustle of daily life and enter their own sense of Utopia. As the event takes place on a larger stage than preceding events, expectations are high and feelings are positive for another example of the group’s artistic impact. Understandably, the five-hour window of the auction cannot feasibly be reached by all those wanting to attend, so the organization will extend the collection to be viewed the following week at Myeongdong Gallery. The gallery will continue to display the unsold artwork giving those wishing to support the charities another opportunity to purchase if they are unable to participate in the Art Bazaar on Dec. 4. The extended exhibition will run from Dec. 5 to Dec. 12 at the Myeongdong Gallery, which can easily be reached via exit 9 of Myeongdong Station (Line 4). Also, following the exhibition, an art walk will take place in Haebangchon. The Diplan Art Walk will occur after the auction from 7 p.m. until 1 p.m. It will involve approximately ten venues in the Kyeongnidan/ Haebangchon area. Participants will be able to visit each venue where artwork will be on display. Included will be music and performance art throughout the evening at selected venues. december 2010/GROOVE KOREA/37
art
In an ‘Art Walk,’ a Different Tact to Saturday Night Inhibition, Not Exhibition From an announcement by Sean Maylone: The particularly unorthodox “Inhibition” by Seoul artist SSEO is made of two parts:
1.
The reclaimed ad space declaring herself with a tongue-incheek, prima donna vanity, a “22nd Century Artist”, advertised blatantly across the dusty cobalt blue buses that are parried back and forth in the systematic transit system, conveying an overdue poke at the pretentious expectations and rules of the gallery world that manages to reflect the ambiguous views behind measuring an artist’s success. SSEO’s 22nd century artist profile plants more than just a slight curiosity amongst the slew of anonymous viewers who will indubitably notice Hyejin’s SSEO exhibit as their eyes meander from one example of commercialism to the next. The bus runs on line #271 near Hapjeong station, until December 22nd.
2.
A publicly advertised “SSEO Inhibition” (in direct opposition to an “Exhibition”), advertised on posters citywide and the Internet as taking place on November 31st (a day which doesn’t exist) at her own home. Inquiries reveal that tickets are “unavailable,” as she is publicly advertising her own Inhibition to reveal her artistic work.
not for creation. It was to be accepted by others and to be noticed But when people asked about her career, she introduced herself as an artist. Also, she wanted her work to be accepted and appreciated as an art piece. If she is accepted as an artist, her value will not be questioned. At a young age, she thought just by drawing she was an artist. But in this industry, to be an artist there are certain processes; education, exhibitions, media… We need to The bus runs make the name value. The purpose on line #271 of this performance is to make her- near Hapjeong self go through these processes. 11/31 is an open solo exhibition station, until for ‘SSEO,’ and makes a situation as December 22. if she is a famous artist.At this time promotion posters are posted on streets. Actually, 11/31 doesn’t exist and the word “exhibition” is written “inhibition” by expressing her thoughts on an actual “exhibition.” The public will think of her as a famous artist by looking at the advertisements, which is actually a performance. This performance represents the relationship with art and the artist and presents the inside structure conceptually.
By Carys Jones Those who either live in or frequently visit the Noksapyeong, Haebangcheon, Kyeongnidan areas will have no doubt noticed a gradual transition taking place in the vicinity over the past few months. Bars, restaurants, cafes and art spaces are popping up all over the place. There are not any nightclubs, juicy bars or beer chugging contests in Kyeongnidan. Instead, you can expect to find establishments that combine a chilled atmosphere, ambient decor and funky art. Dripan, the brainchild of creative souls Dann Gaymer and Ripley Torres Tao is a project that aims to bring the local community together and introduce people to these venues, while showcasing the talents of visual, musical and performance artists. The concept for Dripan came about following the success of the Blooming Itaewon exhibition at Gallery Through, in which Gaymer and Tao were both featured artists. Keen to collaborate on future projects, Gaymer introduced Tao to Carmen, the proprietor of her namesake bar in Kyeongnidan, with the intention of putting on an art show at her place. Tao took the idea further and suggested that they should organise an “art walk,” encompassing several venues in the local area.“That way we could include more venues and artists and make a real event that would benefit everyone,” Gaymer elaborates. Excited and motivated, the duo promptly got to work, scouring the
neighborhood for suitable locations, designing flyers, liaising with local business owners, including Adam and Jessica Lofbomm, owners of The Laughing Tree gallery in Haebangcheon, who Gaymer and Tao say have helped immensely with the development of the project. They also approached painters, musicians, poets and other artists. “The bars will be grouped in zones and the audience will move from zone to zone at maybe 40 minute internals,” explains Gaymer. “In each zone there will be a mix of static art and performances scheduled and people can freely move around. Also, people can arrive later if they wish, as we’ll put up the performer’s schedule online.” The art walk will The concept came begin at Laughing about following Tree and finish at the success of the RufXXX. Artists confirmed so far include Blooming Itaewon Vincent Triao, Adam Lof- exhibition at Gallery bomm, James Topple, GT Through. Arpe, The Space Rhyme Continuum, Mike Hern, Casey Sword, Dreamie di Santo, Matt Pugh, Alexandra Beneteau, Eric Scott Nelson, Matt Broadhurst and others. When asked what people can expect from Dripan, Gaymer says they can expect a chance to see static visual art and performance work, meet people looking for something beyond another round of shots and maybe find out about bars and cafes they had never visited before. “It’s going to be different from most art events and different from your average Saturday night, but it’ll be something to remember and a good chance to connect with others and realize that we live in a pretty awesome time and place,” says Gaymer. “We hope it to be a community building event in the truest sense of the term.The Haebangcheon, Kyeongnidan areas have a lot of good stuff going on in terms of the establishments that have been popping up and the creative work going on all round. We hope to help galvanize this and bring in the community together and appreciate that awesome things are going on and if we pay attention we can make even greater things happen.” Dripan will take place Dec. 4 from 7 p.m. For further information, visit http://dripan.blogspot.com or search for “Dripan” on Facebook.
SCHEDULE
From the artist herself, Sseo Hye-jing:
Subject: DRIPAN Venues Confirmed Venues have been confirmed. Those interested in hanging work or performing, get in touch! Hanging work from this week, first come, first serve.
This bus AD performance started as looking and analyzing herself in another perspective, which calls oneself an artist. On the left side (of the bus) there is text: “SSEO /22nd century artist,” and on the right side an image of herself collaborated with a magazine image. SSEO is the artist’s name. “22nd century” represents future status. The bus starts at Myeonmok-dong and runs through Gwanghwamun, Hapjeong-dong, Sangam-dong. It runs until 12/22. She painted from a young age. She thought she would become an artist just because of her passion for drawing. Looking inside of herself, her work was
Zone 1: • Laughing Tree • The Local Zone 2: • Le Café • Phillies Zone 3: • Orange Tree • HBC Zone 4: • Itaewon underpass • NOXA
38/GROOVE KOREA/december 2010
Zone 5: • Blue Beer • Mini’s • King Kong Zone 6: • Carmen Zone 7: • Ruffxxx Meeting: Laughing Tree Gallery 7pm
december 2010/GROOVE KOREA/39
Food Drink
&
Tuesday
Taste Off:
How to Separate the ‘Meh’ From the ‘More?’ By Josh Foreman In Itaewon’s Tuesday food specials, there are lots of choices. Which ones are the best? You could do it the hard way and try them all. Or you could leave that to a team of brave foodies willing to put their palettes on the line for the good of the community. Groove assembled just such a team recently: Tyron Butler, the Aussie grill master, Paloma Julian, the European trained in classical Spanish cuisine, and Chris Jones, the Canadian who knows his way around a smoker. Their task: Go forth, and try the Tuesday specials. Rate them on taste, price, service and atmosphere. Give credit – and criticism – where it is due. Find the cream among the milky dregs, the filet mignon amid the scraps. 40/GROOVE KOREA/december 2010
Wolfhound sets the bar high with its tasty two-for-one fish and chips.
Wolfhound
The special: Two-for-one fish and chips (12,900 won) A defaced Manet greeted the team as it entered this staple Itaewon hangout. The Wolfhound’s tastefully designed interior has become a victim of graffitists as of late; Manet’s barmaid has grown a mustache, and the bar’s walls are becoming covered with patrons’ artistic compositions: here a crudely scribbled Welsh flag, there a drawing of a deformed man groping a naked woman. The fish and chips came 14 minutes after we ordered it – two golden brown fillets on each simple white plate, with crunchy chips, lemon, tartar sauce and a sprig of curly parsley. The fillets
were crunchy on the outside and moist on the inside. “Cooked to perfection,” Butler noted. “The batter isn’t too thick, leaving the taste of the fish,” Jones wrote. Julian thought the presentation of the fish was not in keeping with pub tradition. “I missed the paper for getting the extra oil from the fish and the salt for the potatoes,” she wrote. She gave the bar extra points for atmosphere, though. “I loved the music, a nice blend between the 80’s with George Michael and Jamiroquai ... It felt like home, back in Europe.” Everyone gave high marks for service; our polite server laid out silverware meticulously and made sure the group had drinks and vinegar for the fish.
the judges Tyron Butler Brisbane, Australia Ty Butler has spent more hours in front of a grill than most people have spent in a kitchen. Chickens beware many have met their final end inside his charcoal Weber. Ty’s signature dish: roasted lamb shank with Moroccan gravy.
Paloma Julian Barcelona, Spain Paloma Julian keeps a jar of squid ink in her kitchen, and she knows how to use it. She makes a gazpacho so refreshing you could drink it after a long run. Of course, she’d give you a hunk of chorizo and a slice of tortilla to go with it. Paloma’s signature dish: squid ink paella.
Chris Jones Ontario, Canada Chris Jones is a former swimmer, a man with an appetite and a Northern perspective. He prefers to smoke his food, and prides himself on carefully constructed rubs. His meat of choice: pork shoulder. Chris’s signature dish: Chiang Mai chicken curry.
Patrons of RMT eat 300 won wings while waitresses race around, trying to serve a packed house.
Rocky Mountain Tavern
The special: 300 won chicken wings The group’s second stop of the night was Rocky Mountain Tavern, the raucous Canadian sports bar. We stepped into the bar and the smell of wings hit us in the face. NFL football blared from flat screen TVs around the bar. The place was packed with people drinking, smoking, eating wings and watching the Eagles pound the Redskins. “Back in America, baby,” Julian wrote. We huddled into a corner near where a Team Canada Gretsky jersey was displayed. Waitresses in sporty red and white outfits navigated between clumps of wing-eaters. We were lost in the
crowd, so we ordered from the bar – one plate of lemon pepper wings, one plate of hot BBQ wings, and a basket of homemade chips. Rocky Mountain has about a dozen flavors of wings, though they had run out of their two most popular flavors by the time we ordered. The wings took 25 minutes. To be expected with such a crowd, Jones said. They were hot, moist and meaty. Jones noted that while the chips were sublime, the wings looked like they had been hastily covered with sauce. “The lemon/pepper seasoning is good, but the barbecue one feels like ketchup with cayenne,” Julian wrote. Butler gave high marks for the rollicking atmosphere, but Julian said the place felt claustrophobic. december 2010/GROOVE KOREA/41
Food Drink
wolfhound
&
e e rv st pric a se t
ic
e m at
Tyron
5
4
4
4
Paloma
3
4
4
5
Chris
5
5
5
4
Total:
52
. os
Verdict: Wolfhound’s attentive staff serves up some damn good fish and chips.
rmt A group eats fall-off-the-bone ribs – 500 won each — at Sam Ryan’s on Tuesday.
Sam Ryan’s
The special: 500 won pork ribs The next stop on the Tuesday circuit was Sam Ryan’s, another sports bar and relative newcomer to the scene. Sam’s interior is minimalist compared to other Itaewon bars – not much clutter on the walls, just a beer sign here and there. Sam’s was also showing NFL football on several flat-screen TVs, but here the atmosphere seemed less celebratory and more focused on small groups. The main room is spacious, with a long wooden bar running across the back wall and tables spread throughout. Sam’s was busy, but not packed. We found a spot at a long bar-
style table near a window that overlooked the street below and ordered 20 ribs. The ribs came in 12 minutes, with plenty of napkins. “Fall-offthe-bone ribs,” Jones wrote. The ribs were tender, charred a little around the edges, sticky sweet. “Hearty – very tender and the right amount of smoky BBQ flavor,” Butler wrote. Julian said the ribs were good but could use more seasoning. Butler gave high marks for service, taste and price, but deducted a point from the atmosphere category for a lack of music. “In 30 minutes or less our tray of ribs is an ossuary,” Julian wrote. “RIP ribs.”
e e rv st pric se ta
ic
e m at
Tyron
4
Paloma
3
4
2
2
Chris
5
5
3
3
Total:
43
5
3
. os
4
Verdict: Rocky Mountain Tavern has a rolicking atmosphere and cheap, tasty wings.
sam ryan’s e e rv st pric se ta
ic
e m at
Tyron
5
Paloma
4
5
4
5
Chris
5
5
5
5
Total:
57
5
5
. os
4
Verdict: Sam’s delicious ribs are hard to beat on a Tuesday night.
pancho’s Pancho’s offers a free taco Tuesday’s and Mexican beer for 6,500 won
Pancho’s
The special: free taco with a Mexican beer (beers 6,500 won) The last stop of the night was Pancho’s, a Mexican-themed bar and restaurant. The restaurant was nearly deserted when we arrived – just a couple other tables of customers. Pancho’s décor is composed of various incarnations of Mexican stereotypes – fake cactuses wearing sombreros, bottles of tequila sitting in niches, blue-and-red-painted chairs and ads for Mexican beers. The staff was cheery, and brought us Dos Equis and beef and chicken tacos in just a few minutes.
The tacos were basic – a little ground beef or chicken chunks, a tortilla, some shredded lettuce, tomatoes and sour cream. “Great quality beers,” Butler wrote. Pancho’s has Dos Equis, Corona and Negro Modela. “Most would not come for the taco,” Jones wrote, “but it’s a bonus to the beer.” The taco isn’t great, and can’t compete with the other specials,” Julian wrote. “The service is the fastest one, but the place is completely empty.” Pancho’s got high marks from Jones for its festive decorations, but Julian was not impressed. “The most Mexican thing I see is the [Virgin Mary] tattoo on the bartender.”
The Verdict: King Rib Wolfhound’s fish and chips were a treat, but in the end they couldn’t beat Sam’s delectable ribs. RMT got good marks for its wings, but its smoky, overcrowded atmosphere kept it from challenging Wolfhound and Sam’s. Panchos made a good effort with quality beer and decent tacos, but in the end it was outclassed by its competitors. Check out next month’s issue for Part 2 of the Tuesday Taste-Off. 42/GROOVE KOREA/december 2010
e e rv st pric a se t
ic
e m at
. os
Tyron
3
4
5
3
Paloma
2.5
3
4
1
Chris
4
3.5
4
5
Total:
42
Verdict: Pancho’s has good quality beer, but its tacos need work.
standings Part 1 of the Tuesday Taste-Off 1. Sam Ryan’s 2. Wolfhound 3. RMT 4. Pancho’s
57 points 53 points 43 points 42 points december 2010/GROOVE KOREA/43
Copacabana
Food Drink
&
Brazilian Steak House
In the October issue of Groove we published a review of the old Copacabana located in Hannam-dong. Although Copacabana has the same name, it has relocated and has changed its menu since that article was written. To set things straight, we’re going to tell you about the new Copacabana. We sincerely apologize for any inconvenience or confusion the publication of the Copacabana article in the October issue may have caused – Ed.
Text by Jimalee Sowell Photos by Anya Dennis If you’re tired of eating out and going home hungry after spending a lot of money on fru fru meals, it’s time to try Copacabana. The prices are reasonable, and you’re guaranteed to leave satisfied. Copacabana is a Brazilian barbeque restaurant. Brazilian barbeque is, simply put, a meat lover’s paradise. Different kinds of grilled meats such as beef, pork, bacon and sausage are brought to your table one at a time throughout the course of your meal, and the server artfully slices pieces of meat off the skewer onto your plate until you give him the nod to go away, which, trust me, isn’t easy. All the meats served at Copacabana are carefully selected by the owners – the meat they serve in the restaurant is the meat they themselves like to eat. For just 29,000 won per person, you get all the meat you can eat. Imagine that – all the meat you can possibly eat. Not just a meager slice of one kind of meat on your plate – all you can eat of a variety of deliciously grilled meats. I know some people who would say that’s pretty close to heaven. Maria, one of the owners, said that some customers have been a little surprised by the amount of meat served at Copacabana. She wants people to know that Brazilian barbeque style is about enjoying a little bit of many different kinds of meat over a leisurely meal. As much as you might want to, you can’t live on meat alone, so to balance out your meal, there is a side table full of salads and some hot dishes such as beef stroganoff and beans. The items on the buffet table change periodically, and Maria does her best to honor requests from customers who miss particular Brazilian dishes. In the spirit of Copacabana, all the items on the buffet bar are included in the 29,000 won price and are also all-youcan-eat. 44/GROOVE KOREA/december 2010
No matter how full you are, you’ve got to have the dessert. That’s because it’s on fire. Well, briefly, but anyway, how can you pass up a dessert that is flambéed right before your very eyes? This opportunity doesn’t come often. Try the banana flambada – not only for the entertainment value, but also for the great taste. Don’t go to Copacabana without trying a caipirinha, the traditional Brazilian cocktail. It packs a punch, but goes perfectly with the meat. For those a bit faint of heart there is also a variety of soft drinks, juices, beer and wine to choose from. Copacabana is bright, cheerful and comfortable. You’ll feel so cozy, in fact, that you won’t feel like you’re in a restaurant – you feel like you’ve been invited to Maria’s home for a meal. Copacabana is the perfect place for dinner with family, friends or colleagues. It’s also a great date place as long as your date isn’t a vegetarian.
To advertise your bar or restaurant
How to get there: From Itaewon Station, take exit 1. Turn right in the alley past Kentucky Fried Chicken. Turn left past The Naked Grill. Go straight. You’ll see Copacabana in a bright yellow and green sign on your left. Business hours: Copacabana is open Tuesday through Friday from 5 to 10 p.m. and from 12:00 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. on weekends. Copacabana is closed on Mondays. For reservations, call 02-7961660. Check out the Copacabana website at www. copacabanagrill.kr.
please email info@groovekorea.com or call 010-7560-5552
groove korea
december 2010/GROOVE KOREA/45
Food Drink
&
Memphis King Does Southern in Seoul
The signature dish, as you might imagine, is barbecue pork ribs. True to its name, Memphis King Barbecue imports its ribs from none other than the barbecue capital of the world, Memphis, Tennessee. The ribs served at Memphis King Barbecue are hickory smoked, giving them an authentic barbecue flavor. The restaurant also sells takeaway frozen ribs, for when barbecue cravings strike later. Along with the standbys of the Southern barbecue tradition, Memphis King Barbecue has also created many dishes you wouldn’t associate with barbecue: barbecued spaghetti, barbecued flatbread, and barbecued nachos. It might take a little time to wrap your mind around the idea of these unusual combinations, but give them a chance, and you’ll be pleasantly surprised. The chefs at Memphis King Barbecue are artists; sauce is their paint, and food is their canvas. For dessert, try the sweet potato cake or the ice fries. Yes, that’s right, ice fries — vanilla ice cream with a side of fries. Memphis King is cheerfully decorated and spacious with lots of
pictures of—you guessed it—Memphis. Memphis King Barbecue is a good place for dinner with family, friends, or even a date. Just make sure it’s a date who likes to eat. Prices: Main dishes are less than 10,000 won with an average price of 6,500 won, with the exception of the granddaddy of all dishes, the barbecue pork ribs, which tops out at 25,000 won. Most appetizers are 5,500 won, and desserts are all under 5,000 won. Memphis King also offers a 5,000 won discount for bills over 50,000 won and an 8,000 won discount for bills over 100,000 won. How to get there: From Bangbae Station, take exit 3. Go straight. Take your first left and then first right just after Family Mart. You’ll see Memphis King on your right. Business hours: Memphis King Barbecue is open from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. every day except Sunday. For reservations, call 02797-0217. Check out their website at www.mkb.kr
by Jimalee Sowell You’ve got barbecue cravings, and you’ve got ‘em bad. You’ll go crazy if you don’t get a fix. What do you do? Well, you could try finding a friend with a rooftop and call up Aunt Bessie in Mississippi for her famous barbecue sauce recipe. But it’s a bit too cold for an outdoor barbecue and everyone knows how stingy Aunt Bessie is with her recipes. Better head to Memphis King Barbecue, Bangbae-dong’s very own Memphis rib shack.
46/GROOVE KOREA/december 2010
december 2010/GROOVE KOREA/47
Hog
Food Drink
&
Hof
It’s a nice diversion from other foreign foods, and not a bad place to take a date - or a few drinking buddies. Where: Hwaseong city, Neung-dong Dongtan-ji-gu 28-1 (call 031-8003-3153 for directions if needed) How to get there: From Seoul, catch bus 1551 from Gangnam Station (Line 2) or Yangjae (Line 3) out of town. It’ll be a bit of a ride down the Gyeongbu Expressway, but you’ll eventually get off at the Central Park bus stop. From there, walk straight for two blocks -- you’ll walk through a developed commercial area and enter the last building on your side of the street. If you pass the church, you’ve gone too far. From Bundang or Suwon, bus 720-3 stops at the same Central Park stop. If you’re a Dongtanite, it’s catty-cornered from the Dongtan-3-dong community center. Smoking: permitted. Pricing: average-priced for good bar food and alcohol – roughly 15,000 won for a plate and 4,000 won for a beer. Pros: something different if burgers and pizza have gotten old. Cons: You’re unlikely to meet many Kiwis here.
(Dongtan) By Chris Backe While Dongtan has more than enough fried chicken and pizza places to keep the locals happy, I was in the mood for something... different -- nothing too exotic, nothing that would make Andrew Zimmern hurl and certainly nothing overly healthy. But definitely some place that served beer. Didn’t think it would be too hard. While on a recent trip to Dongtan’s Central Park, I wandered down the street and found a place that promised “New Zealand Barbecue & Hof.” While there aren’t too many Kiwis around this planned-city area south of Suwon, it seemed to fit the bill. Curiously, a number of seafood options were on the menu as well -- a nice alternative if you like something from the sea. One order of smoked chicken and sausage, and a draft beer later, I found myself in, well, hog heaven. A baked potato with a hidden pineapple slice underneath is nothing extravagant, but balances out the chicken and sausage. Meanwhile, a bit of corn on the cob provides a bit of veg. I need nothing overly fancy, but this was a welcome diversion. A couple TVs offered up some sports, although I wished they’d turn off the K-pop and K-rap in what’s supposed to be a Kiwi sort of establishment. It’s set up much like any Korean-style bar, so enjoy the company you came with. I tried like hell to finish this off -- there was just a bit more than I could put away. Were I to go with a group, I’d split up two plates between three people if you’re of average hunger, or be prepared to ask for a doggy bag for next Monday’s lunch. 48/GROOVE KOREA/december 2010
december 2010/GROOVE KOREA/49
Food&Drink
Food Drink
&
Ho Lee Chow: As Good as it Gets
By Sonya Beard Don’t give up on the search for good, old-fashioned, authentic Chinese food in Korea. OK, scratch the authentic part. It’s probably not that old fashioned either. But for foreigners, this is as close as you’ll get to the Chinese food back home – wherever back home is. Ho Lee Chow is “straight outta Chinatown.” At least that’s what the slogans say on T-shirts worn by the waitstaff. Take note, it didn’t read “straight outta China.” This Canadian-based restaurant chain serves up a deliberate Western-style slant on the cuisine. Starting with the eggroll, choose from vegetable spring rolls (4,500 won), shrimp spring rolls (5,500 won), or wonton rolls (6,900). The lightly fried sautéed-to-perfection Garlic Shrimp appetizer (11,900 won) also works well as a main course, with a side of vegetables. This is obviously where all of the shrimp fried rice in Korea has been hiding. The various selections are a Ho Lee Chow specialty (8,500 won to 9,900 won/small). The House Fried Rice is tossed with shrimp and squid. The Shrimp and Bacon Garlic Fried Rice, served with real bacon strips, is the most exotic of the choices that also include Szechuan, vegetable and beef. A small size is ideal for a single entrée, or you can order the larger sizes to share (11,500 won to 13,900 won). The English-Hangul menu of popular Chinese dishes is inviting to read, and the photos look deceptively delicious. “What you see in the photo is pretty much what you get on the plate,” says Darren Grant of Seoul, who admits is not a fan of most Chinese food in Korea. 50/GROOVE KOREA/december 2010
But the Ho Lee Chow regular says the restaurant does not disappoint. “The vegetables are fresh. The atmosphere is great. You can’t beat that,” says Grant, who’s originally from Canada. General Tso’s Chicken (13,900 won) is one of the most popular dishes for expats. The chicken is not fried but stewed in a flavorful mild sauce with a red and green pepper medley. Try the Kung Pao Chicken (13,900 won) for a spicier kick. The zingy Lemon Chicken and the spicy Orange Chicken (both 13,900 won) are each served with the respective citrus slices. The Sweet and Sour Chicken with pineapples, onions and red and green peppers (13,500 won) will taste familiarly good. If you like it hot, try the Szechuan Chicken (13,500 won). Vanita Stewart, of Seoul, has been to the restaurant countless times. It’s similar to what she can find her native South Africa. “I like the reasonable prices, the friendly staff and the quality food,” says Stewart, explaining that you can actually taste the freshness. It’s true. The crisp vegetables do more than decorate the plate or accompany the sauces here. So diners may find themselves eating the greens instead of brushing them to the side. Ho Lee Chow brands itself as a healthy purveyor of Asian cuisine. Its ingredients are fresh, dishes are cooked to order, and there is no MSG added, according to the restaurant. Complimentary Jasmine tea is a nice touch with each meal. It’s served warm, but you can request an icy kettle. The naturally semi-sweet after-taste is refreshing and a great alternative to sugary colas and juices. Mongolian Beef (14,900 won) and Ho Lee’s Eggplant with Pork (14,900 won), two numbers you may not see in every Chinese restaurant, are worth a try. And if you’re in the mood for seafood, consider one of the shrimp plates (17,500 won to 19,900 won), jumbo prawn dishes (26,900 won) or lobster platters (39,900 won to 49,000 won). Make a pit stop at Ho Lee Chow to share a lunch set with a companion or a dinner set with friends. If you’re not headed to a Chinatown soon, this should hold you over until then.
Directory
Bar Bliss Itaewon Exit 1 (Line 6) make the first right. It’s on the corner. www.picturetrail.com/barbliss. Price: 12,000-35,000 won. Contemporary cuisine and high-end bar. Great cocktails and patio. Beer O’Clock Head to Exit 1 of Shinchon Station (Line 2) Go behind the Hyundai Department store towards the 7-11. Turn left on the third street up. 2nd floor. English Menu and staff. #:02333-9733 www.beeroclock.ca. Prices: 8,000-24,000 won. Canadian Sports Bar with great wings, burgers, donairs, and pizza. Big Rock Brewery Head out Gangnam Station Exit 7 and make the first right and head up the hill past the GS25. www.bigrockbeer.co.kr. Prices: 5,000-15,000 won. Canadian Brewery with a great Sunday Brunch and good pub fare. Don Valley Exit 3 of Itaewon Station (Line 6) below the Coffee Bean. English Menu and staff. #:7962384. Price: 9,000 to 25,000 won. Korean Beef and Pork Barbeque and home-style favorites. Try the Wine Marinated Pork Belly. Gogitjip Out Noksapyeong Exit 2 (Line 6) and walk straight along the street with the kimchi pots. English menu and staff. #:02-796-5528. Nightly bbq specials, generous servings, and open late. H-Diner Located to the side of Starbucks near the Capitol Hotel. English Menu. #:02-796-6967. Price: 6,000-20,000 won. American diner sandwiches, chili’s and entrees. Le Quartier Latin Go out Sinchon Station Exit 3 (Line 2) and walk straight until you get to the big church. Make a right and walk about 500 meters. Look for the large French Flag. English Menu and Staff. #:02-333-9874. Prices: 4,000-26,000 won. Authentic French Bistro with reasonable prices. Naked Bar and Grill Line 6 Itaewon Station Exit 1 walk straight and make a right at KFC. Naked Bar and Grill is next to B1 on the left. English menu and staff. #:02-794-4225. Prices: 5,000 to 40,000 won. The perfect after party place with great food and drinks. Naked Grill Naked Grill is located at Yongsan-gu, Hannam Dong 29-21 towards the U.N. Village. English menu and staff. #:02-749-4225. Prices: 4,000-12,000 won. Tacos and homestyle American favorites for eat-in or take-out. Petra Restaurant Kebab House Exit 3 of Noksapyeong Station (Line 6) and up the overpass. It’s located to the right. English Menu and staff. #:02-790-4433. Prices: 5,000-18,000 won. Authentic Arab food made by a certified chef. Excellent Falafel, hummus, and Sultana style lamb and chicken. Pizza Peel Go out Exit 4 of Itaewon Station and walk past the Rotiboy and make a left into Market Alley. English Menu available — davelauckner@hotmail.com. Itaewon’s Newest Pizza Shop serving fresh pies daily. Roofers Go out Itaewon Station Exit 3 and make a right at the Fire Station. It’s on floor of the building across from the Foreign Food Mart. #02-749-2970. An artsy, spacious bar with good food. They have an outside roof that is used for brunch and performances. Rookies Ichon (Line 4) Exit 5 and walk in the direction of Yongsan Station. Pass train tracks to your left. It’ll be on your left. English menu and staff. #:02-792-3383. Price: 4500-22,000 won. A sports bar with creative bar food and burgers. Sam Ryan’s Bar Go out Itaewon Exit 1 (Line 6) and make the first right. It’s at the end, above 3-Alley Pub. English menu and staff. #: 02-749-7933 www.samryans.com. Price: 5,000-30,000 won. Sports Bar with 8 big screens. BBQ pork ribs on Tuesdays and great burgers all the time. Sanchae House (산채집) Go up around Namsan Mountain from Myeong-dong Road. It is near the Namsan Cable Cars and the restaurant N’Cucina. English menu. #:02-755-8775. Price: 8,000-25,000 won. Savory bossam and fresh leaf bibimbap. Suji’s Itaewon (near Noksapyeong Station), around the corner past McDonald’s on your left, 2nd floor above the Skinfood store. English Spoken and English Menu Available. #02 797 3698. Deli sandwiches starting from 12,000 won. Other main & brunch dishes starting from 10,000 won. Happy Hour weekdays 5 to 7p.m. Suji’s continues to remind us of some American-style home cooking by introducing deli sandwiches to Korea through its relaxed style of restaurant food. Spice Table Go straight out of Exit 2 from Itaewon Station, turn left onto the first street (corner of Helios), Spice Table is on the left (2nd Floor) and across from Los Amigos. English spoken and English Menu Available. #:02-796-0509. Price: 7,000-25,000 won (Cuisine), 8,000 won Lunch Special Menu, 40,000-90,000 won (Wine) Stylish Asian food to Itaewon using a fresh and flavorful approach. Two Broz. Go out Exit 3 from Itaewon Station and you’ll find it on the right. English spoken and English Menu available. #:02-790-0610. Price 5,500-10,000 won. Gourmet Burgers, Fries, and Hotdogs in the heart of Seoul’s International District. Vin Vino Go out Itaewon Exit 2 and walk straight. It is across from Cheil Communications. English Spoken and English Menu Available: 02-790-7034. Price 10,000-25,000 won for food. 30,000 won and up for wine. Chic Wine Bar in the heart of Itaewon with a wide selection of wine and tapas. Wolfhound Go out Itaewon Station Exit 4 and turn left to go down the hill and make the first right. English Spoken and English Menu Available: 02-749-7941. Price 10,000-20,000 won for food. The best Fish-N-Chips and comfort food in an Irish Pub atmosphere. Yaletown 400 meters from Sinchon Subway Exit number 2. Make a left at Beans and Berries. English Menu. #:02-333-1604. Price: 5,000-18,0000 won. Great Pub fare such as poutine, burgers, and nachos.
december 2010/GROOVE KOREA/51
cover story
cover story
Article and photos by Ben Min
To shed some pounds,
There are two main factors to keep in mind when it comes to getting and staying in shape. One is usually within our control – our diet. But the other is something that is beyond anyone’s control - time. Finding the time to exercise is not easy. We are a society on the go, so finding an extra hour in the day to get in a proper workout can easily turn into an exercise in futility. boot Camp from Studio X Fitness has an answer.
go to Boot Camp
52/GROOVE KOREA/december 2010
december 2010/GROOVE KOREA/53
cover story
cover story
Studio X Fitness is located between Haebangcheon and Itaewon, near Noxxa, just south of Namsan Tunnel 3. Cody Hunter is a Kiwi expat and the owner. The studio specializes in personal training and group training sessions. But Studio X’s biggest draw is their so-called Boot Camp. Six days a week, in the mornings and evening, Hunter leads small groups (six-10 people) through an intense, physically demanding one-hour cardio workout designed to burn fat and tone muscle. Each session begins with a short warmup period that builds up a light sweat. Then things really get down to business. Hunter then pumps up the music, quickens the pace, and you will go through a variety of exercises for the entire body. From Tpushups to barbell squat thrusts to your core, no muscle group is left out and you will get a total body workout. And finally, before you can take anymore, the intense part is over and it’s time to stretch and go home. That’s it – a complete workout in just under an hour. As complete as the workout is, it is Cody’s knowledge, experience, and education that are clearly evident during each session. Before the intense portion began, Cody clearly demonstrated and explained each exercise, including which muscles are being targeted, and how each exercise is part of a greater to goal get the most amount of exercise in the quickest, most efficient way possible. While the members were training, Hunter moved around the entire room, constantly encouraging everyone, pushing people to reach their limit, and provided a helping hand when needed. In addition to Hunter’s expertise, the adaptability of the session to match each individual’s ability is key. There is no intimidation factor of lifting more weight or doing more reps – everyone goes at their own pace and works up a good sweat. From the weekend warrior to the athlete to someone who just wants to look good naked, boot camp is for everyone. And it’s also clear that sessions at Studio Fitness-X are an excellent solution to solving the exercise time crunch.
Six days a week, in the mornings and evening, Hunter leads small groups (six-10 people) through an intense, physically demanding one-hour cardio workout designed to burn fat and tone muscle. Each session begins with a short warmup period that builds up a light sweat.
Then things really get down to business.
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Cody Hunter holds a BS in Sports Science from Christchurch, New Zealand and has a number of exercise certifications. For directions to the studio, visit their website: www.studio-x-fitness.com The Saturday boot camp sessions are outdoors in Namsan Park. december 2010/GROOVE KOREA/55
travel
international
Removed, Indonesia By Flash Parker
Boom, boom, boom, bap, bap, brrrrraaaap! Boom, boom… That’s the sound of torment.
A fisherman tends to karamba -- floating net cages -- on Lake Maninjau. Estimates suggest there are more than 3,000 karamba at Maninjau; their presence has had a severely negative impact on the ecology of the lake.
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If you’ve never had the pleasure of jamming to an Indonesian pop beat while riding in the back of an overcrowded, fetid, ill-crafted Soviet-bloc passenger bus, then you’re missing out on one of life’s little pleasures. It also means it’s unlikely you have been to Sumatra, the third largest of Indonesia’s islands and one of the most beguiling and frustrating, yet charming and strikingly gorgeous, destinations of the Eastern world.The harrowing journey between fascinating Lake Maninjau and the epic landscapes of Lake Toba, two of the largest crater lakes in the world, offers an enchanting escape from the ordinary, a full array of mystique and mystery and an opportunity to experience a bit of tranquility not often found in a land of 220 million inhabitants. Forces of nature and the chaos of culture have charged and changed the landscape of Sumatra, Indonesia’s third largest island and the fifth largest in the world, over the last decade. The 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami rocked the region and subsequent aftershocks ravaged the infrastructure of the archipelago. The 2002 and 2005 bombings in Bali and civil unrest in Bandar Aceh terrified tourists and rerouted visitors to the beaches of Thailand, temples of Angkor and a myriad other Southeast Asian destinations free of tumult. Yet today, Sumatra stands largely a land of untrammelled territory, proud of a rich cultural legacy and purveyor of unparalleled hospitality, a natural playground where ancient volcanoes rage, pristine beaches beckon and two of the largest crater lakes in the world provide the perfect escape for the erstwhile traveler and anyone willing to brave the fiercest of Indonesian roads. It is its wanton mystery and idyllic vision of adventure I try to focus on when our driver, the Indonesian Willie Nelson, with his long braided hair, shaggy beard and outlaw t-shirt, turns down his music momentarily to serenade us with his rendition of “Always On My Mind.” Eventually, Indo Willie drops the beat and I fantasize about the destination that is Lake Maninjau. I imagine long, lazy days on the beach, casting a line into cool, glassy water as the sun goes down and waiting for the nibble of the palai rinuak, a small local fish. I dream of unspoiled country, of hikes through the tropical rainforest and photographing the indigenous wildlife while the man next to me lights his fifteenth cigarette and dumps his ashes into my fresh water bottle. I’m daydreaming when our already standing-room-only bus pulls to the side of the road to pick up a pair of brothers hauling a slaughtered cow in clear plastic garbage bags from one town to the other. There’s no room to store the carcass in the overhead bin, for which I am thankful. The next logical course of action is to set the fermenting beef on my lap for the duration of the trip. Hours in the back of an Indonesian bus pass as you might imagine they would; poorly and slowly. The moving medium of transportation has the power to transport you not only physically, but emotionally and psychologically to and from places you’ve already been and places you desire to go. Holding a severed cow’s head on my lap, I can’t help but pine for the open expanses of the Sianok Canyon left behind mere hours ago.The canyon, ripped asunder through years of seismic activity was made massive during the 2009 Padang Earthquake. It is a lush,
fertile dreamscape of meandering water buffalo, frightening flying foxes, menacing monitor lizards and great Minangkabu architecture, one of the finest of all ancient Sumatran building styles. Located on the outskirts of the sleepy mountain town of Bukittinggi – lauded as the most highly educated and affluent of Sumatran towns and rife with fine accommodation – and in the shadow of the thrilling Mount Marapi, Sianok is a traveler’s dream. There, we hired a local guide to provide us access to the canyon; without insider knowledge one is left to wander the periphery, to scour the rice paddies and huts along the highway, as Sianok is a secret better kept than Hogwarts. Our guide, Stef, a local farmer with time on his hands, fleeced us for the experience. He estimated our bill by the size of the camera around my neck and the length of my lens, though even a rip-off isn’t such a bad deal in Sumatra – our eight-hour trek through the canyon set us back a little less than $15 US, or roughly five times the cost of riding the bus from Central Bukittinggi Station to Lake Maninjau. Indo Willie defies death and gravity when he forces the bus’s bald tires and suspect transmission to take on the Kelok 44, the notorious hairpin turns that pave the way to Lake Maninjau. I would fear for my life and the safety of those around me if not for the view; the descent to the lake is one of the most spectacularly scenic in all of Asia. The jagged lips of the caldera tower above the lush mountain landscape, the calm water mirrors the heavy clouds that hang low in the atmosphere and we are distracted half a dozen times by cheeky macaques and bright orange leaf monkeys that dart between trees overhead. Indo Willie drops us off at our waterfront villa, carries in our luggage and leaves us with a heartfelt thank-you and a handshake that could crack a monkey’s skull. Inexplicably, all that former displeasure and discomfort is forgotten. Our feet sinking in soft dark sand, the calm expanse of the lake’s warm water greets us.We marvel at the blood-red sunset and dine on the famed palai rinuak, pensi (small mussels), spicy jackfruit curry and hoppy Bintang beer. The next day we meander through the throwback towns of Bayur and Maninjau to experience something of local culture and cuisine. We meet many of the people that make their living from aquaculture, harvesting fish from
Overlooking Lake Toba, the largest volcanic lake in the world and site of the largest volcanic eruption in history; the blast, 70,000 years ago, killed most humans on earth and created a population bottleneck in Central Africa.
the more than 3,500 karamba, the floating net cages that dot the surface of the water. We circumnavigate the lake in a sinking canoe, though the views of montane forest giving way to swampy bogs and rice paddies distract us from our plight. On a bike ride around the lake, a sobering 60km adventure on broken road, dusty path and washed out gravel, we tear the bark from wild cinnamon trees at the behest of the locals and sample the best cassia vera in the world while elusive gibbons call to us from somewhere in the mist. The days have a way of slipping by unnoticed at Lake Maninjau; here today and then you’re gone. “Travel is hell.” I declare this from the back of the minibus we’ve appropriated for the leg of jungle highway between Maninjau and Lake Toba, a sixteen-hour battle of attrition. No mountain range, no traditional dish, no isolated beach, no ancient dance, no crater lake is worth all this. Coincidentally, the journey started with promise. We decided on renting a mini-bus rather than tickets for a passenger liner assuming we would make fewer stops, pick up fewer passengers and enjoy a more comfortable ride. Then, an hour outside of Lake Maninjau, we stopped to fill out the empty seats. Our driver tells us we could comfortably fit seven adults plus his navigator. Begrudgingly, we agree. On the side
Aquaculture has traditionally been the largest source of income for families on Lake Maninjau. Karamba are tended to year round, sunrise through dusk.
of a dusty highway, hours away from nowhere, we add to our quartet the Perkasa family, who count among their ranks mom and dad, an elderly uncle, a teen son, twin daughters and a baby boy. Reluctant to leave their uncle behind to reach our previously agreed upon maximum consignment, we take to the road. My girlfriend and I are shifted from the spacious second row seats to the third, where we sit hunch-backed and jerk-kneed, the father between us and, inexplicably, a gigantic plastic water bottle, the kind built for office coolers, between his legs. As the family has decided to bring all of their worldly possessions with them on this trip – items including a crate of durian, two sacks of rice, four suitcases and 79 pairs of shoes, there’s no room for dad’s bottle in the back. I could forgive this easily enough if the bottle were filled with, say, heirloom coins or magic beans, but the fact that the jug is empty wholly confuses me. There he sits, legs spread as wide as humanly possible, crushing me against a window that won’t open in the back of a mini-bus that smells curiously of curry paste and PineSol. Presumably to distract me from my plight, our driver turns up the volume of his thunderous techno beats. Sleep evades me as my head rests against the speaker. Certain events mark the time we spend in the water bottle mini-bus, and, I like to imagine, help pass the time. During the first hour Father Perkasa attempts to light a cigarette while I am trying to sleep. I tell Father Perkasa that in lighting a cigarette, he is making my trip much less comfortable. I am sure I will suffocate, I cry. He offers me a cigarette to calm my nerves. My girlfriend snaps both of them in half and goes back to sleep. Hour Five: Our driver slams on the brakes, jarring us awake, sending vegetables and fruit cascading throughout the cabin and causing Father Perkasa’s water bottle to bounce off the side of my head. Our driver has spotted a king cobra on the road, frozen in the headlights, and urges us to get out and poke at it with a stick. This is the highlight of the trip. Hour nine: We pull over shortly after 3 a.m. so everyone can use the rest room.There is no rest room in the jungle. Hour 12:We unload our friends at their destination. Some four hours from the lake, from december 2010/GROOVE KOREA/57
freedom, from cool, cerulean waters made for swimming and a luxurious hotel suite made for sleeping we have room to stretch our legs, room to breathe, room to laugh at our own discomfort. Hour 13: We stop again. Our navigator spies two elderly women waiting at a bus stop for a vehicle such as ours, one with far too many empty seats and ample cargo space for them and their collection of boxed fish. Smoked, fresh, curried and pasted, they’ve got it all and they are willing to share with us. Our windows still won’t open. Hour 15: I swear I’m experiencing deepvein thrombosis, that condition you’re warned about whenever you board a plane for a long haul flight. My circulation is off. I can’t feel the toes on my left foot. My thighs are on fire, my skin smells of fish, my clothes smell of smoke and I haven’t seen the outside of the vehicle for what feels like forever. I wonder why I’m in Indonesia, exactly. I wonder why I didn’t accept an assignment to shoot the beaches of Thailand or the hotels of Singapore. I consider quitting, of pulling over and walking in the opposite direction, when, climbing the Trans-Sumatran Highway toward the town of Perapat, the water begins to fill out the landscape before us. The sun crests the ridge of hills to the east and illuminates Samosir, the mythic island within the lake, to the west. Our driver pulls over to the side of the road to allow me a moment to capture the scene on camera. I limp, crawl and hop my way up a short hill for a better vantage and take in what lay before me. Lake Toba, in all its bombastic glory, is a scene lifted straight from a 19th century Peter de Wint watercolor. Fishing boats in silhouette pull in and out of the harbor far below. Majestic whitewashed Christian churches, remnants of Sumatra’s colonial heritage, dot the rugged, scraggy hills. Immense Batak houses, medieval wonders of Indonesian architecture, stand proud down low in the valley. Though I can’t see them, I imagine I can smell the sulfuric hot springs, dominating cliff faces and beckoning us, the road-weary travelers. I climb back into the mini-bus, my legs limber from the exercise. Through a cloud of smoke I make eye contact with our driver in the rearview mirror. He smiles. Travel is heaven.
with
Farmers work the fertile rice paddies at Lake Maninjau year round. Farming and aquaculture are quickly giving way to tourism as the region’s main source of income.
Three cheeky youngsters mug for the camera at a diner near Maninjau Village.
58/GROOVE KOREA/december 2010
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travel
korea
The Island in Fall
Jungmun Beach is deserted –- but still warm –- in November.
By Josh Foreman
JEJU – The micro-pebble beaches here are empty in November. Swimming season is long over, and the weather is chilly enough to deter most beachgoers. But in the hours of the afternoon when the sun is shining hotly, Jeju’s beaches are glorious this time of year. Lounging on empty beaches is just one reason Jeju makes a great fall destination.
Sun sets over Jungmun Beach.
Most people trekking across Jungmun beach in the fall are doing just that. Nylon pants, wide-brim hats, vests, backpacks – they’re covered from head to toe in high-tech trekking gear. They might give you a funny look as you’re sprinting down to the water, but pay them no mind. Jeju’s waters are warmer in November than the Northern Atlantic’s are in the dead of summer. Claim one of the beach’s big wooden pagodas, and lay out in the warm fall sun. Jungmun is just a short drive from the Lotte Hotel, a sprawling resort that overlooks the beach. The hotel has a daily 26,000 won brunch special that makes most buffets look paltry in comparison. If breakfast is what you want, the Lotte has all the fixins’, including made-to-order omelets from a chef who employs a novel flipping technique, thick Belgian-style waffles, eggs, bacon (crunchy or limp – you choose), hash browns and… carrot soup. The buffet also has loads of smoked salmon,
a salad bar and a mountain of pastries. Oedolgae Rock is another great spot to enjoy the last warm weather Korea is likely to see until spring. Relax snake-style on the massive craggy rocks, which act as giant heat collectors.While Jeju’s beaches are warm, Oedolgae can be downright hot in the sunny afternoon. The rock is also dotted with deep tide pools that are perfect for swimming. The hat-wearing ajoshis who patrol the rock only half care if you jump into the clear pools. Just make sure the tide’s not so low that you get stuck, and watch out for sharp barnacles when climbing out. Jeju is citrus land, and eating mandarins while you’re there is a must. Fall is harvest season, when the mini-oranges are getting ripe and sweet. All over the island you can spot the squat trees, loaded with mandarins. Most of the trees are claimed by an owner, but if you find yourself an unclaimed one, pick a bright orange and dig in. Jeju orange growers also turn the sweet fruits into other products – notably juice and chocolate. Fall is also traditionally the time when fattened animals are slaughtered and stored for winter.The island claims perhaps the most beloved Korean livestock animal – the Jeju Black Pig. Its flesh is best enjoyed in all its fatty, layered glory in the form of oh-gyeop-sal. The pork is brought to the table in thick slices, skin and a little black hair included. It’s paired nicely with three-year-old kimOedolgae Rock is a craggy chi and onion soju, another Jeju specialty. Making heat collector, and a good onion soju is simpler than you think – just slice place to relax in the fall. up an onion, put it into a teakettle, and pour in a bottle of soju. Jeju’s special brand is literally translated “Halla Mountain Water.” Halla Mountain is Jeju’s true pride – a massive volcano that literally is the island. A hike to the peak is doable in one day, though it’s a steep nine-kilometer slog to the top. Fall means cooler weather for the hike, though, and you’ll appreciate it as you’re huffing up stair after stair after stair. From the top, look out to the ocean and shake hands with one of the many other hikers who have stopped at the peak for a lunch of kimbap and a drink of rice wine.You’re on the top of Jeju, and because the peak is the highest point in the country, on top of Korea.
The rest of Korea may be cold by November, but Jeju is still warm and green. Jeju’s coast is littered with smaller islands.
60/GROOVE KOREA/december 2010
Oedolgae Rock is a good place for rock jumping –- if the ajoshi who patrols the area doesn’t stop you.
december 2010/GROOVE KOREA/61
around korea To the Jarasum SingSing Winter Festival: By train (from Seoul): Take Gyungchun line train at Chungryangri train station. Get off at Gapyeong station. By bus: 1. 2. 3.
From East Seoul Bus Terminal and Sangbong Bus Terminal, take the bus bound for Chuncheon via Gapyeong. Get off at Gapyeong. From Jamsil subway station, take bus #7000 and get off at Gapyeong From Chungryanri bus station, take bus #1330-2 or #1330-3 and get off at Gapyeong
To the Garden of Morning Calm: By train (from Seoul): Take Gyungchun line train at Chungryangri train station (Approximately 1 hour). Get off at Chungpyeong train station and transfer to bus at Chungpyeong bus station. Approximately 30 minutes by bus to the garden. By bus: 1. 2.
From East Seoul Bus Terminal and Sangbong Bus Terminal, take bus for Chuncheon and get off at Chungpyeong. Transfer to local bus or taxi. From Chungryanri bus station, take bus #1330, #1330-1, #1330-2, #1330-4, or #1330-5 and get off at Chungpyeong Bus Terminal.
For more information on Gapyeong County and the Jarasum SingSing Winter Festival, visit www.gptour.go.kr/site/foreign/english
Jarasum SingSing Winter Festival For those who enjoyed the Jarasum International Jazz Festival, there’s good news – from Jan. 8-30 the Jarasum SingSing Winter Festival will be held in Gapyeong County. It will be the third event since 2009 and will include more fun and outdoor activities than ever. At the vast festival site, about 12 soccer fields in area, you’ll be able to skate, sled and catch rabbits. The highlight of the event will be fishing for trout in the Gapyeong River. With 800,000 people attending last year’s festival, the
organizers are expecting another successful event and plan to release nearly 120,000 trout. So if you’re looking for a unique outdoor activity this winter, come fishing for trout in Jarasum. Jarasum is a part of Gapyeong County known for its beautiful environment. Located between Gyeonggi Province and Gangwon Province, Gapyeong County is one of the most popular areas for residents of Korea. It’s also known for leisure and sports activities such as waterskiing in Cheongpyeong Lake and camping. One of the most popular tourist sites in the county is ‘the garden of morning calm.’ It’s the oldest private garden in Korea with 5,000 different kinds of plants. It attracts more than 600,000 tourists every year and is regarded as a must-visit site for couples.
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around korea
ROAD RUNNING
Web sites and groups help runners register for races By Ian Doyle
Road running is a great Korean pastime. Runners compete in road races every weekend of the year. But unless you have a Korean friend or co-worker who runs, it can be hard to find out about races. Registering for them can be even harder. Most Korean road races (even the small ones) close registration a month before the race date, making it even harder to register before it is too late. Luckily, there’s a website that gives basic information about races: www.marathon. pe.kr. The site doesn’t cater to non-Korean speaking folk but the web site translates well when its web address is entered in at translate.google.com/#ko|en| . Click on Competition Schedule to access the 518 races taking place this year. Find a race of interest by clicking on the race web site link and reading more details (many of the sites are compatible only with Internet Explorer). At this point there are two options: have a Korean-speaking friend complete the registration online or send the race organizer an e-mail (found on every race’s main page). Race directors will usually ask for your name (as it appears on your bank account), cell phone number, alien registration number, sex and race distance desired. Races can be paid for with bank transfers. Despite the difficulties with registration, most races count at least a few foreigners among the contestants. The number of expats on the road racing scene in Busan continues to grow, mirroring a trend occurring throughout the peninsula. One race across Busan’s Gwangali Bridge draws 15,000 people.
Registering With Online Help: There are some useful online running groups that cater to helping foreigners in Korea register for road races. A popular organization is called ‘Waeguks Got Runs’ and can be found through Facebook. The group’s creator, Kylene MacKillop, provides a step-by-step online registration guide for each race she posts to her group page. She mostly provides information on races close to Busan. Seoulites can get involved with the Seoul Flyers, who provide race information (www.seoulflyers.com). No excuses now, get out there and start racing! 64/GROOVE KOREA/december 2010
Bark at the Beach By Roy Early
In December, Busan residents found themselves staring at a shining beacon in the shape of a Wolfhound. Busan folks lost their only Irish Pub, O’Brien’s, a few months ago. With the Gaya drinking hole shuttered, expats in the City by the Sea had a hole that desperately needed filling. Wolfhound Irish Pub and Restaurant just could fill it. Koreans and expats alike who live in Seoul have experienced the Wolfhound’s unique taste and hospitality for nearly five years. Now Busan has it’s own version of the pub.The pub is the brainchild of a four-member partnership, including one Irishman. They hired a former executive chef from the Intercontinental Hotel, Mark Sumpter, to craft the menu and train the kitchen staff. Sumpter insisted on cooking the hard way – everything from scratch. The Seoul version of the Wolfhound lands on most of Seoul’s food bloggers’ best lists every year. SeoulEats.com says they have the best burger in Seoul, while others praise their fish and chips. Wolfhound brings to Busan some unique dishes that might be hard to find at other establishments – bangers and mash, shepherd’s pie, and lamb stew, to name a few. The Wolfhound takes pub fare a step further by offering an all-day Irish breakfast. In a proper pub, Busan residents can now freely shout those five magic words, ‘Eggs and ale for all!’ The Wolfhound covers all the bases when it comes to drinks. Their draft beer selection leads with the Irish standard Guinness (sometimes hard to find in Busan), followed by Kilkenny, Hoegaarden and other beers. They also have Jameson whiskey and other spirits. Located a short walk from the Haeundae subway station, Wolfhound offers a menu of food and drink unlike any of Busan’s other establishments. In addition, they open at 11:00 a.m. on weekends and holidays. It’s also Busan’s first drinking establishment named after a land animal – a sign of good things to come if the phrase “hair of the dog” holds any water. How to get there: Exit towards the beach from the Hauendae subway station, green line (number 2) stop #203. Keep on eye out about 50 meters/55 yards before the KFC. The Wolfhound Irish Pub and Restaurant is located on the second floor. For more information check out www.wolfhoundpub.com or their Facebook page.
december 2010/GROOVE KOREA/65
around korea
Provence village with DMZ in background
A thriving tourist village, as north as you can go
By Matthew Lamers
Not 1 kilometer from the North Korean border in Gyeonggi Province, what had been a few square kilometers of barren farmland in Paju is a decade into a transformation to what is now a bustling tourist village. When the village of Provence was born from the rice paddies of Paju in 1996, it had only one restaurant and a single bakery.As far north as is physically possible, to say that this Italian restaurant that is pressed up against the Demilitarized Zone was out of place would be the biggest understatement of all time. Now thousands flock to Provence every weekend for its cafes, restaurants, boutiques and even a greenhouse. It is so popular with city-slickers that it sometimes takes longer to find one of the 700 parking spaces than it does to get here. “When we first opened in 1996, there weren’t a lot of people because the road to get here wasn’t nice. But as time goes by, more people visit and they just keep coming. It got popular through word of mouth,” said Yeom Ji-won, manager of the restaurant Provence. The restaurant was the first building to go up here. No one lives in Provence village. Tourists come here for the food and shopping. Most visitors are young couples looking for romantic backdrops for their pictures, housewives shopping for interior decorations, and families for weekend outings, while the number of foreign tourists is small but increasing. Provence restaurant started it all. It serves up a unique mix of Italian, Mexican and Korean dishes. It sounds like a somewhat risky combination, but the menu rarely disappoints. 66/GROOVE KOREA/december 2010
Painter Kim In-gu
The greenhouse in Provence village
Provence restaurant
“We serve fresh food. We grow our own herbs and we have a bakery. So the food is always fresh. We satisfy our customers with both quantity and quality,” said Yeom. If Provence offers up a bite of something a little different, there is plenty of the familiar here. Provence Manon serves up some of the best dukgalbi you’ve ever had (but the portions are small and it’s not cheap). There’s also the standby Korean BBQ and too many cafes to name. After a big lunch, many stick around for some fresh air and shopping. Most boutiques hawk either clothes or high-end interior decoration goods. At Provence Life, customers walk out with basil plants and decorative potters. On the other side of the greenhouse, people sort through anything from expensive vases and fake flowers to tableware. Outside there are several baby clothes stores, an ice cream shop and even a No one lives in pantie store. Provence village. This place is also popular with photographers. Al- Tourists come here for though contrived in every the food and shopping. sense of the word (rememMost visitors are young ber, this was a rice paddy not long ago), Provence couples looking for provides pretty backdrops romantic backdrops for young couples and for their pictures, unique experiences for children. It is contrived, but housewives shopping in a creative and fun way. for interior decoraBuildings are vibrantly tions, and families colored red, orange, green. The greenhouse is a sort- for weekend outings. of botanical garden. In the middle of the village is a large central area with benches, ponds, trees and other things you’d expect to find in a fake “eco-friendly” tourist village in Korea. Provence is also becoming a place for artists to sell their wares. In April, painter Kim In-gu walked away from his 25-year computer graphic career to open his store here. “Provence village is a miniature of Southern France, so it’s really colorful and exotic. People love to take pictures here,” he said. The 51 year old added he wants to bring culture to Provence village’s visitors. “(My art) adds life to people’s bland daily routines.” Kim also sells calligraphy works. “Provence village is always changing. Most of our patrons are return customers to our village, because we are always adding things and making changes,” said Provence restaurant’s Yeom. Adam Bons was one of the few foreign tourists at the village on the last Saturday of October. The 27-year-old English teacher said it was his first trip to the village. “It’s far and not easy to get to, but that just added an element of exoticness. After filling up at a BBQ restaurant and buying some art stuff, we went to the nearby mountain to check out North Korea,” he said, referring to Ohdu Mt.’s tourist lookout that overlooks the North. For more information on Provence village, point your browser to www.provence.co.kr; for more information on Provence Restaurant, call 031-7513-5799. No English is spoken in the village. Buses No. 200 and 220 leave for Sungdong Saguri every 20 minutes from Hapjeong Station (Exits 1, 2) in Seoul.Take a 5 minute taxi from Sungdong. december 2010/GROOVE KOREA/67
community Dr.Seo Jeong-wook
1960s
Present
2009
Keeping it in the Family:
Itaewon Animal Hospital By Adam Walsh
If you live anywhere near Itaewon and have a pet, odds are you have been to the Itaewon Animal Hospital. In fact, if you’re a pet owner and have lived anywhere near the area in the past 40odd years, then you’ve probably been to one of the Seo family’s vets. These days, the place is run by Dr.Seo Jeongwook, but when the family establishment first opened its doors, it was run by his father. 68/GROOVE KOREA/december 2010
In 1967, the original animal hospital was opened by the senior Seo and was located next to what is now the Hamilton Hotel. Since then, it has moved five times and settled in its current spot just down from Noksapyeong Station overpass in 1989. Three renovations later – the most recent completed just a couple months ago - and you have the hospital in its new look. Since the late 60s there have regularly been two or three animal hospitals in the Yongsan area, but the others have come and gone and more have taken their place. The one constant has been the Seos. The younger Seo graduated from veterinary school in 1994, but he didn’t always have his sights set on animal medicine. As a child, he wanted to be a medical doctor. Growing up in a house surrounded by animals and accompanying his father to work, however, eventually started to rub off on him and slowly Seo’s life ambition changed. “I watched my dad at a close distance and without knowing it,
I started to learn and get used to veterinary practices. Each night I would prepare instruments for my dad’s surgeries,” said Seo. Nowadays, it’s Seo who is doing the surgeries, though his dad is far from retired. Seo senior still comes in to the hospital each morning and works until the early afternoon. A far cry from the days when he would come to work at dawn and not arrive at home until midnight. Seo’s brother is in charge of the non-furry end of operations and handles business dealings, while his son, now in his final year of high school, also plans to become a vet. In the years since 1994, Seo has noticed one big change in pet preferences in Korea. “Unlike Westerners, Koreans historically are not cat people but that is changing,” he said. Compared to 10-15 years ago, Seo says there are a lot more people who are getting cats for pets. Illustrating the point, according to Seo, at the turn of the millennium there were only three animal hospitals in the city that vaccinated cats – his being one of them. Noting one of the differences between East and West in his field, Seo says that vets are perceived differently in Korea than in the West. He says that in the U.S., vets are perceived in the top 5 percent of social ranking – up there with medical doctors in terms of income and respect. But in Korea, they’re treated like merchants. People tend to ask for discounts and try to negotiate when dealing with vets, says Seo. His most interesting moment as a vet to date was when a one-meter long alligator was brought in to be patched up. It happened about 10 years ago and Seo still laughs nervously about the whole thing. Apparently a man who was involved with circus performances also raised alligators and two of them got into a fight. So, the injured gator was brought to Seo for treatment. Besides normal procedures such as rabies and health certificates, spade and neutering, minor surgeries, Seo and his staff also do paperwork for expats who want to send their pets home. Back around 2000, they were churning out about 300 sets of paperwork per year. Now, however, it’s a little less. Seo’s best advice for bringing your fluffy home with you is to check on the rules well in advance. He says you should contact your embassy four months before your desired return, find out the details – some countries require blood samples sent, and bring the paperwork to the animal hospital.
If you want to set up an appointment at the hospital you can call (02) 797-6677 or visit the website at www.vetmedic.co.kr december 2010/GROOVE KOREA/69
community
Ground-Breaking Climbing Film Tour
coming To Seoul If you have ever felt the thrill of hanging from a rock ledge by your fingertips, defied good sense to climb boulders and cliff faces for a natural high, or if you simply get enough adrenaline by watching others do it - The Reel Rock Film Tour will blow your mind. And its coming to Seoul on December18.
Hosted by Korea On The Rocks Initiatives (KOTRi), six breath-taking new films will be featured within an evening event combining film and fundraising. The Reel Rock Tour (RRT) films showcase the sport’s boldest climbers shattering the myth of impossible. From sport and traditional climbing to bouldering, from high-altitude alpine climbing to free soloing and BASE-jumping; whatever type of climbing you do, the films will leave you feeling like a total pansy -- and completely inspired.This will be RRT’s South Korean premiere and includes Korean subtitles. To sneak a peek at the trailer, visit www.reelrocktour.com. The goal of this event is to raise money for KOTRi’s 2011 projects which support the development, management and maintenance of South Korea’s climbing areas. KOTRi’s mission is to conduct cross-cultural projects that enhance the outdoor community, and to protect the natural environments that inspire our passion to climb. KOTRi works with local climbing members, clubs, and businesses to support and accomplish these projects. The event will also showcase a silent auction, raffles, prizes, live entertainment, guest presentations, and more. So even if you prefer hiking boots over masochistically-fitted climbing shoes, there will be something for you. Korea’s Mountain Preservation League, KPML, will present on the current status, dangers and steps being taken to preserve Korea’s mountain wilderness. If you’re interested in getting into the climbing scene in South Korea, what better opportunity than to share an evening with others who have learned the ropes. Representatives from several Korean climbing gyms and clubs, as well as expat climbers, would be happy to share some beta. KOTRi has partnered with sponsors including The North Face, Nelson Sporting Goods, Didimdol, Schmoolz.com from the UK and Daejeon’s very own Tasty Chalk to bring this event to Seoul. Other attractions include: • • • • •
KOTR’s very own DJ Will Live Music performances Indoor Dry Tooling demonstration area presented by Schmoolz.com Presentations from KPML, the KOTR Bouldering Community, KOTRi Food and Drink Booths
The Reel Rock Tour and KOTRi Fundraiser will be held on December 18th, from 5:30 to 11 p.m. at The North Face Outdoor Culture Center near Suyu Station (Line 4, 2 minutes straight from Exit 1). Tickets must be purchased in advance for 10,000 won, and are limited to 250 in number due to venue space. Photo by: Unio Joubert Photo subject: Kim-Lee Tuxhorn
70/GROOVE KOREA/december 2010
For questions and ticket purchase, contact Bryan Hylenski at kotrinitiatives@gmail.com ph. 010-2232-6511, or for Korean assistance contact 심선화 (Sunny) at 010-2773-7947. For online information and to learn how to get involved, please go to www.koreaontherocks. com, the home of KOTRi and our climbing community. december 2010/GROOVE KOREA/71
community
Look to the Light By Aaron Raisey
What are the most important things in an image? What are the really crucial ingredients that make a good photograph?
photo tips
First, let’s disabuse ourselves of a few notions. Is the camera important? No. Is the lens an important factor? No. What about sharpness or low levels of noise? Definitely not. These are all technical and aesthetic considerations and cannot produce a compelling image in and of themselves.The single biggest factor in an impressive photograph is composition, and that’s a subject for another time. But number two, and, as the title of this article suggests, we will focus on the light. You could say, and perhaps rightly so, that light actually is the single biggest attribute of importance. After all, without light, there can be no photograph. But let’s set that aside for the moment and assume enough light is available. How can we use that light to our advantage or employ it to create more impact in our images? Consider the main source of the lighting. The classic example of poor consideration is the photo taken with the primary light source behind the subject. If you own a camera, you’ve definitely taken a photo with the subject in shadow and a brightly lit background. I certainly have. Many modern cameras attempt to Consider -- and this save us from ourselves and provide “backlight is a huge one folks -compensation’ to help the time of day. Exalleviate this situation. perienced photograThis is never an effective answer. Really, the phers will know about camera automatically the “golden hours.” bumps up the exposure -- and we have just lost control of our image.The three solutions to this dilemma are to reorient the subject if possible, wait for a more appropriate time of day, or school up on the use of fill flash. The point is that the direction from which the light illuminates the subject has a crucial impact on the success of an image. Consider the temperature of the light. This is commonly known as “white balance” and is a very technical subject beyond cursory examination here. For the most part, leaving a camera in auto WB mode is reasonably successful, but if different settings are available (DSLRs all have the ability to tweak white balance), do take some time and experiment with the different settings to see what effects different temperatures have. Especially at night, white balance often has a dramatic effect on the colors in your image. Consider the color of the light sources. Again, especially important at night. Korea is a land of neon and bright signage -- use this to your advantage. Even ordinary side-of-the-road subjects like a bank of air conditioner units or a pipe festooned wall can assume an otherworldly aspect or unique character through the various colors that might be thrown from signs and street lighting. Consider -- and this is a huge one folks -- the time of day. Experienced photographers will know about the “golden hours.” The first couple of hours of sunlight and the last are of a vastly different quality than that period between. During the day, the light is normal daytime 72/GROOVE KOREA/december 2010
light -- just regular daylight. But note the quality of the golden hours. Because the light travels through more of the Earth’s atmosphere when the sun is at a low angle, it is more diffuse, and blue light is scattered to a greater extent. As a result the light reaching the ground is “warmer.” Colors, especially reds, oranges and yellows, tend to be much richer and of a golden aspect, hence the name.The air pollution in the larger centers here in Korea actually enhances this effect. It’s fantastic for adding impact to architecture and urban landscapes, and greatly enhances natural landscapes. Of course, combining two or more of these considerations together can be advantageous. For example, work with white balance and street lighting, or different angles of the primary light source along with the time of day. Considering light, its source, its quality, its color and its timing, will do more to add character and impact to your images than anything this side of composition. At times, even composition can be subject to the influence lighting has in an image. So get out there and always look to the light for inspiration -- set your photographs apart from those who prefer to focus on trivialities such as hardware and technical minutiae that will not improve their photography. Feel free to contact me or drop by the Seoul Photo Club on Flickr if you have any comments or questions, or if you are looking for a bit of photographic advice. Contact details are on the Groove Photo Challenge page. december 2010/GROOVE KOREA/73
community
Title: Kimmari Genre: Road movie Dialogue: “I make my own luck” Character: Lee Hyo-Jin (musician) Prop: Kim (dried seaweed) Location: Gangnam, Seoul
Hardcore Movie Making: The Seoul 48 Hour Film Project The Seoul 48 Hour Film Project is not 48 hours of watching films. Now that that is out of the way, let’s get to what it actually is.The Seoul 48 Hour Film Project is a group of teams here in the city that got together in order to work non-stop over a period of – that’s right – 48 hours to make short films. This year’s submission deadline was Nov. 7 and by all accounts, the second annual project bettered last year’s and gave good insight on where to improve for next year. The rules are fairly simple.You get a character, a prop, a line of dialogue and a genre - which all have to be included in your movie - on Friday night and then you and your team set out to write, shoot, edit and score your film over the next two days. The competition first started in 2001 in Washington DC by Mark Ruppert. The whole point was to highlight filmmaking and filmmakers, while getting participants to do the seemingly impossible - make a watchable movie within 48 hours. The idea took off and last year there were 40,000 filmmakers who made 3,000 films in 76 cities worldwide – Seoul being one of them. This year’s producers – Park Sun-ho, Jack Park and Sarah Jung - pointed out that there was not a lot of publicity for the event this year and that hopefully there will be more next time around. Given the lack of publicity, many people were confused about details of the project. Even when trying to secure sponsors, Park Sun-ho said that they would be finished with their whole spiel when the sponsor would say, “So it’s a film festival?” and then they would have to start over again. If money issues weren’t enough of a juggling act, there were also difficulties securing a theatre for the screening of the films. Though the venue for the event ended up being the Broadway Theatre near Sinsa Station, government approval was needed before the location could be booked. In order to get government approval, the films must be screened, which as Jack Park pointed out wasn’t possible because they hadn’t even been made
74/GROOVE KOREA/december 2010
Scenes from the film ‘Kimmari’
This year’s project involved 17 films with roughly 10 people per team and the films were screened over two nights – Nov. 10 and 11. The wrap party was at Roofers in Itaewon on Nov. 28, where an awards ceremony also took place.
yet. Realizing they had a catch-22 on their hands, attempts were made to explain to the right people exactly what they were about and being well practiced in this the producers landed the venue. This year’s project involved 17 films with roughly 10 people per team and the films were screened over two nights – Nov. 10 and 11.The wrap party was at Roofers in Itaewon on Nov. 28, where an awards ceremony also took place.The awards range from acting, to cinematography, to best use of prop, character and line of dialogue – this year: seaweed, Hyo-Jin or Hyung Joon Lee and “I’ll make my own luck.” One participant from this year, Edward Burgos, hopes to eventually make a living in the industry. “Film is my passion and what I want to do for the rest of my life. Everyone wants to be successful, but to be honest if I could spend the rest of my life doing this and eking out a living I think I would do it with a smile on my face.” Open to both locals and expats, there seems to be more than enough talent and desire for the Seoul 48 Hour Film Festival to continue. Miss out on the action, but want to check out indie films here in Seoul? Park Sun-ho and Jung are screening their feature film “Gimcrack” on Dec. 15 at 8:30 p.m.. The theatre is in Gwanghwamun and it is called Cine Maru. Directions: Out of Gwanghwamun Station, Exit 7, walk straight for about 10 minutes.When you see the Seoul Museum of History on your right, turn into that street and you will see a 5-story brown building. Cine Maru Theater is on the 5th floor. For more information, look up “The Premiere Screening of GIMCRACK” on Facebook.
december 2010/GROOVE KOREA/75
community
Hushu Visit By Johnny Bland
Let’s all face it, our appearance is important if to no one but ourselves. The same goes for me. I like looking nice when I go out and besides, you never know when you will meet that special someone. That’s why two years ago I wasn’t happy to find out I had a form of eczema.
health info SEOUL EMERGENCY MEDICAL INFORMATION CENTER
(02) 3675-5178 or 3675-5179 Jongno-gu, Seoul
INTERNATIONAL CLINICS
Asan Medical Center (AMC) www.amc.seoul.kr/eng International Clinic: (02) 3010-5001 or 3010-5002 Emergency: (02) 3010-3331 or 3010-3334 Songpa-gu, Seoul Samsung Medical Center (SMC) english.samsunghospital.com International Clinic: (02) 3410-0200 or 3410-0226 Emergency: (02) 3410-2060 Ilwon-dong, Seoul Seoul National University Hospital (SNUH) www.snuh.org/eng
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International Clinic: (02) 2072-2890 Jongno-gu, Seoul Yonsei University Severance Hospital www.severance.or.kr/en/index.asp International Clinic: (02) 2228-5810 or 392-3404 Seodaemun-gu, Seoul
ORIENTAL MEDICINE / ACUPUNCTURE
Jaseng Hospital www.jaseng.net (02) 3218-3167 Apgujeong, Seoul Dr Yoon’s Oriental Medical Clinic (02) 790-9578 or 790-9577 Itaewon, Seoul Gangnam IN Oriental Medical Clinic www.inisgood.com/content/c_view.asp?c_idx=399 (02) 547-8575 Gangnam, Seoul
CHIROPRACTORS
Itaewon Chiropractic Center www.createwellnesscenter.com (02) 798-1446 Itaewon, Seoul
To make things worse, it appeared on my scalp and nose. While walking around Korea, the two things people mention most are how they like my nose and hair. So, you can see why I would want to take care of something that affects these areas. A friend recommended me to try Hushu, a skin clinic in Apgujeong, Seoul, south of the river. I had been to a few doctors in Ko-
SKY Wellness Center www.skychiro.com (02) 749-4849 Itaewon, Seoul Itaewon Station, exit #3
DENTAL CLINICS
Hus'hu Dental Clinic www.hus-hu.com 1588-9467 Apgujeong, Seoul Yonsei Miplus Dental Clinic (3rd floor) (02) 3141-0028 Hongdae, Seoul Hong-ik Univ. Station, Exit #5 International Mee Dental Clinic www.internationalmee.com/page/sub6_1.asp (02) 795-1500 Hannam-dong, Seoul Navid Dental Clinic www.naviddent.com/eng/greeting.asp (02) 790-7119 Hannam-dong, Seoul Myeongdong Ye Dental Clinic (02) 318-2255 Myung-Dong, Seoul
While walking around Korea, the two things people mention most are how they like my nose and hair. So, you can see why I would want to take care of something that affects these areas. Korea Dental Group (02) 733-1633 / (02) 735-1830 Kwanghwamun, Seoul / Gangnam, Seoul Le Dent Dental Office www.art-dentistry.com (02) 539-7675 or 3452-7674 Gangnam, Seoul
MENTAL HEALTH
Dr. Park’s Pyschiatric Clinic for Foreigners (02) 563-0609 Seollung, Seoul Severance Mental Health Hospital www.smh.or.kr (31) 760-9400 Gwangju, Gyeonggi-do
WOMEN HOSPITALS
Miz Medi Hospital www.mizmedi.com/index.asp (02) 3467-3741 Daechi-dong, Seoul CHA Hospital kangnam.chamc.co.kr/chaeng/about/01.html (02) 3468-3000 Yeoksam-dong, Seoul
rea and none of them seemed to really help. Therefore, I was a little skeptical about going to yet another doctor. When I arrived, I was greeted at the desk in English. If you are a foreigner living in Korea, you know how tough it can be to find a doctor, much less nurses, who speak English. This made me feel quite comfortable. I signed in for my appointment and filled out a quick form. A few minutes later I was asked to follow a nurse to see the doctor. He greeted me and asked what the problem was. I told him my experience then he told me what he thought it was. He said there was no real cure for the problem but it was quite easy to treat. He asked if I would be interested in a deep scalp cleansing. I was told this would remove all the dead skin that was trapped on my scalp. He even went one step further and said I could have the blackhead removal for my nose. I thought this would be a great opportunity to get rid of any pesky blackheads, so I agreed to do it. After our meeting, I was led to a quiet room where I laid on a bed and they began the procedure. A nurse began cleaning my face then proceeded to apply an ointment that would remove the blackheads from my nose. He told me I would have to wait about 20 minutes and left the room. The place was peaceful and I was even able to take a quick nap. When she arrived, she removed the ointment and I was taken to another room for my deep cleansing. I was seated in a chair while ointment was put on my scalp. Afterwards, she washed and massaged my head. After about 30 minutes or so the whole procedure was finished. I was guided back to the front where I was given a prescription to use for my scalp. I must say that after leaving, I felt much better about my scalp and nose. Everyone was extremely kind and I will visit again in the future when the occasion rises.
Cheil Hospital & Women’s Healthcare Center www.cgh.co.kr (02) 2000-7000 Chungmuro, Seoul
SKIN CLINICS
TengTeng Skin Clinic (10th floor) webmaster@tengteng.com www.tengteng.com / www.tengteng.co.kr (02) 337-4066 Sinsa Station, Exit #2 Nova Skin Clinic (6th floor) www.novaskin.co.kr (02) 563-7977 Gangnam, Seoul Gangnam Station, Exit #7 Hus'hu Skin Clinic www.hus-hu.com 1588-9467 Apgujeong, Seoul STARSKIN Aesthetic www.star-skin.co.kr (02) 775-0886
PLASTIC SURGERY
K's Plastic Surgery Clinic (4th floor)
www.kksplastic.co.kr (02) 541-7533 Apgujeong, Seoul Apgujeong Station, Exit #2
BEAUTY & HEALTH YE Medical Center (7th floor) www.yemedical.com (02) 541-7533 Gangnam, Seoul Cheongdam Station, Exit #14
MASSAGE Healing Hands Itaewon, Seoul www.healinghands.co.kr. 010-3158-5572 / 02-2071-8090 Itaewon Station Exit #2 SKY Wellness Center www.skychiro.com (02) 749-4849 Itaewon, Seoul Itaewon Station, exit #3
december 2010/GROOVE KOREA/77
oo
listings
korea
just a minute from Sinchon Station. Please contact koreanmovieclub@yahoo.com or www.geocities. com/koreanmovieclub
teams Ice Hockey- Interested in playing with experienced and competitive ice hockey players? Join Korea’s original ex-pat hockey team, the Geckos Glaciers Sunday nights at 8pmin Anyang. Contact Charles at charfull@yahoo.com
Seoul Stitch ‘n Bitch: This club has a crafting get-together the 1st and 3rd Sunday of every month in Haebangchon, Seoul, Please contact seoulsnb@gmail. com or check www.seoulsnb.blogspot.com
H a n d b a l l - Te a m H a n d b a l l - O l y m p i c Handball - We often organize friendly games against Korean teams during evenings or weekends. Male or female players, beginners, intermediate or advanced players... everybody is welcome! Just email SEB at handballinkorea@gmail.com or visit www. handballinkorea.org
Sinchon Toastmasters Club: Looking for new members, both Korean & foreign, wanting to improve their public speaking and leadership skills in an atmosphere where members can also have fun interacting together. Please contact Dong Wan at: intervie@naver.com Suwon Scuba Club: A dive club close to Osan Air Base and Camp Humphreys, we teach all Padi courses and run regular tours for fun dives to the East Sea. Along with dives, the club has a major social element with outstanding BBQ's and parties on each tour. Please contact Nic at: nichofberg@yahoo.com, 010 3123 2061 or www.suwonscuba.com
St Pats FC — seoulstpats@gmail.com Seoul Saturday Soccer League - Looking for additional referees, players, goal keepers, new teams, for its Spring season, starting Feb/28th/09. Please apply to soccersaturday@hotmail.com and leave your phone contacts for more information. Gaelic Club - If you are looking for a physical and competitive sport, while also wanting some craic while you are at it, then check out Irish football, aka Gaelic. It is a mixture of soccer, basketball and rugby. Male and female teams meet frequently for training, games and social events.www.seoulgaels.com
int'l clubs Investor & Real Estate Club Meetings Every Monday @ Watts On Tap. Discussions on international dating, relationships, investments. Discuss investments with ROI higher than KOSPI average. Anyone with valuable or critical comments wins cash & prizes! Contact 010-5552-5568
Touch Rugby - contact seoultouch@gmail.com and more information can be found at touchtagrugby. blogspot.com
Royal Asiatic Society (RAS) – This non-profit organization offers lectures about Korea’s history and culture, while also offering tours to various locations around the country. Please contact raskb@kornet.net or visit www.raskb.com
International Taekwondo club - looking for new members interested in taekwondo and cultural exchange on Sat& Sun 4:30PM ~ 8:30 PM near Konkuk Univ. Email to tm3ym@hotmail.com or visit to http:// cafe.daum.net/arirangtaekwon
The American Women's Club (AWC) now meets at the Sofitel Ambassador Hotel at 9:30 AM on the first Tuesday of each month. www.awckorea.org.
Korea Ultimate Players Association – If you have been searching for some hot disc action in Korea, come out to play ultimate every Sun with the Korea Ultimate Players Association. Please visit www. koreaultimate.net
The Australia & New Zealand Assocation (ANZA) meets at the Grand Hyatt Hotel at 9:30AM on the third Tues of the month. For more information, p le a se v i si t w w w. a nz a kore a .co m or eve n t s @ anzakorea.com
Disc-Golf in Seoul - Looking for something different to do and want to be more active in Korea? We are always looking for new people to play disc-golf every Saturday. contact discgolf@naver.com The Korea Lacrosse Association would like to involve more non-Koreans, with or without lacrosse experience, to participate in the growing tournaments and leagues. Please contact by emaiil parkpc@ lacrosse.or.kr or 02-743-5291 Football Club - Gecko's FC is looking for players, preferably with experience, for the start of the new season.We practice regularly, play games on Sundays and take road trips once or twice a season. Please contact geckosfc@yahoo.com Crystal Palace Football/Soccer Team – We are recruiting players of all abilities to join our games played in central Seoul. Please contact Alex at harryhowlett@hotmail.com or 010 3040 6114 Seoul Survivors RFC -Seoul Survivors has been around for over 20 years. We practice regularly and play a variety of different teams in friendlies, competitions and on tours. For more information, please contact Ian at koreanianr@yahoo.co.uk or 016-897-6282 T h e S e o u l S u n d ay F o o t b a l l L e a g u e , a competitive amateur expat league, is looking for referees to officiate matches in Seoul and surrounding areas on Sundays. No official qualifications are necessary, but you should have a good knowledge of the game. Pay is 70,000 won per game. Also, if you are interested in playing, then we can also find you a team. Please contact: seoulfootball@hotmail.com Seoul Sisters Women’s Rugby Club: Looking for new members, both Korean and foreign, to grow the in-house league. No experience is necessary and there are great coaches to get you up to speed quickly. contact seoulsistersrugby@yahoo.com or check out www.ssrfccom Lokomotiv Goyang Football Club: Playing games in both Seoul and Goyang, we are a football team always looking for new members. Please contact lokogoyang@yahoo.co.uk or check www.lokomotivgoyang.com
clubs Free Bellydance Classes in English in Itaewon nights and weekends. Over 20 classes a week. Learn an art, awaken your body, make friends, eliminate stress, pamper yourself! http://eshebellydancer.com Bellydance Classes in Seoul Tues nights & Thurs mornings. Belly dance is an energizing, low-impact exercise suitable for men & women of all ages. Reduce stress, improve balance & posture, strengthen & tone muscles, develop grace, reduce weight, and increase self-confidence! Contact bellydancekorea@hotmail. com Korea Latin & Salsa Korea L atin and Salsa welcomes new members of all ages and experience levels for parties, salsa lessons in English and Spanish, trips, friends, and fun. Please visit our website KoreaLatinAndSalsa.com Seoul Artists Network (SAN) have a bi-monthly open mic that takes place at Woodstock in Itaewon on the first and third sundays of each month. www. purevolume.com/jeremytoombs | www.myspace.com/ jeremytoombs Writing Club Looking to form/join a writing group. Meetings would likely be on the weekends, twice
email:
info@groovekorea.com
a month. My focus is on short fiction/prose at the moment, but I would be open to non-fiction/longer works as well. email Bryan at scriptingends@gmail.com
Seoul. A fun way to get out on a Sunday afternoon and meet new friends. Send an email to www.bazzerdog. com to find out when and where we will meet.
Lodge Han Yang #1048 the oldest Masonic lodge in Korea welcomes all visiting and returning brethren to attend our regularly scheduled meeting every second and fourth Wednesday. Contact lodgehanyang@ hotmail.com for additional information
The Original Seoul Toastmasters Club Are you interested in joining a club of professionals working to develop communication and leadership skills? Meet new friends, both Korean and foreign, at the original Seoul Toastmasters Club. Please contact Joohun Park at jhpamc@hanmail.net and 011 9279 8299 or visit www.seoultmclub.net
Seoul Fencing Club — Seoul Grand Park in Ichondong. Please go to www.seoulfencing.com or email seoul.fencing.club@gmail.com. The Seoul Book Club, a new book club. We plan to meet once a month read and various works in English and then share and discuss our impressions, all are welcome. Please contact Sean at 010-3648-2861 or stm@iis.or.kr KH Toastmasters is a fun, supportive environment to learn public speaking and leadership skills in English. Our group is a dynamic mix of foreigners and Koreans, and we meet 8pm every Tuesday in Hyehwa. Guests always welcome. A map of our meeting location can be found at: khtoastmasters.com Sherlock Holmes Club will meet every second Tuesday day at It aewon, 7. 30 pm. ( Venue to be announced) A story from the canon, a short talk on Holmesiana, a Holmes quiz, and a Holmes movie: serious-fun. Email Morrison at morry _lee@yahoo. com.au, or phone 010-6376-3965. Southside Hash House Harriers: Do you like to walk, run and drink beer? Well then, come and join the Seoul branch of this world-wide club that meets in a different location south of the Han River each Sunday at 11:00am. All levels of fitness are welcome, just bring along your sneakers and a sense of humor! Please contact Countess at smcrae77@yahoo.com Section 8 Gaming: we meet Sundays in the Seoul area to play a variety of pen and paper role playing games, including Dungeons and Dragons. Contact section8gaming@gmail.com. Toastmasters International, every Thursday Night, near GyeongBuk Palace Subway station, for more information visit the following websites: www. toastmasters.org www.seoultmclub.net or Contact us at: profirving2001@yahoo.com Belly Dance Classes in English. Learn fine muscle control of the torso, arms and hips, and interpretation of intricate music in English with an interesting group of women. Classes on Tuesday nights and Saturday mornings. All levels welcome. Contact eshe@eshebellydancer.com. Texas Hold Em in Ilsan - Weekly Hold Em throw down at cool bar in La Festa, Ilsan Tues & Thurs around 10pm & Sundays 7pm. Contact mrleon29@ gmail.com I'm all-in. May the flop be with you! Interested in Theatre? Seoul Players is an all-volunteer community theatre group which does two English language shows a year. For more info, please email seoulplayers@gmail.com Interested in Surfing? There are trips throughout the winter to discover Korea’s secret spots and great waves. Please cont act Nathan or Jack at Seoulboardriders@hotmail.com B a z z e r ’ s B u d d i e s D o g Wa l k i n g C l u b Namsan, Han River and other outdoor areas around
78/GROOVE KOREA/december 2010
Seoul PMS H3 – This is a running club for women that is also part of the Hash House Harriers. We meet one Saturday af ternoon a month and are looking for other women who like to run, walk, drink and/or socialize. Contact msthanx4nothin@gmail. com or visit www.myspace.com/seoul_pms_h3 Karaoke Club - Join a karaoke club in Seoul with people who love to sing, whether you sound like Frank Sinatra or Frankenstein! We meet once a month. Please contact seoulsing@gmail.com Are you a vegetarian or vegan in Korea? The Seoul Veggie Club meets twice a month to check out veggie-friendly restaurants and enjoy picnics. Koreans, foreigners, vegetarians and non-vegetarians are all welcome. "Facebook group Seoul veggie club" MEETinSEOUL – Come hang out with a large free, all-volunteer social group. There are no membership fees, just pay for your own cost of the events (movies, dinners etc). www.meetin.org/city/MEETinSEOUL/ Yongsan Kimchi Hash House Harriers - If you enjoy running, walking and trekking throughout Seoul as well as drinking beer, then come join us every Saturday at 10 a.m. For more information, please visit www.freewebs.com/ykhhh (then go to "hareline") or malgosia02@yahoo.com Hiking Club – The International Hikers Club meets every Sat. For more information, please contact sihclub@gmail.com Mostly Over 40 – This club meets for lunch on Sunday a month and, as the name depicts, consists of people who are mostly over 40. For more information, contact mostlyover40@yahoogroups.com CWG, ‘Conversations with God,’ discussion and study group is open for anyone who is interested in talking about the themes and implications of this book. Contact markyansen@yahoo.com or 011 9990 4291 Artists – We are interested in starting an artists’ collective in Seoul. Are you a visual artist interested in t ak ing p ar t in a group ex hibit ion? Cont ac t seoulcreative@yahoo.comForeigner/Korean Friendship Club: Our purpose is to meet at a bar on Saturdays to meet new people, introduce new cultures, share thoughts and have fun. Contact yupggiklub@ hotmail.com or check out seoulcircle.com Fusion Art: Seeking members involved in various arts (painting, drawing, illustration, sculpture, photos and more) for regular meetings and exhibitions to share information about colors and opinions. Please contact bakerycorner@yahoo.co.kr, chubbyhubby@hanmail. net or 010-6423-6037 Korean Movie Club: With English subtitles, people are now able to enjoy and understand recent Korean (and some non-Korean) movies and dramas in front of a 120-inch screen. The club is located
The British Association of Seoul (BASS) meets at the Seoul Club from 10 AM to Noon on the fourth Tues of the month. For more information, please contact basseoul@yahoo.co.uk The Canadian Women’s Club (CWC) meets the second Tues of the month & also participate in a group activity the fourth Wed of the month. For more information, contact sujaybee@yahoo.com Club Italia hosts a lunch every Sun at 1 PM at the Franciscan School in Hannam-dong. The lunch costs KRW 15,000 and everyone is welcome. For more information, please visit www.clubitalia.or.kr Career Women in Korea (CWIK) at the New Seoul Hotel on the third Wed evening of the month. For more information, please visit www.cwik21.com or contact career_women_in_korea@yahoo.com. Th e S e o u l I n t l . Wo m e n ’s A s so c i a t i o n (SIWA) meets at the Sofitel Ambassador Hotel at 9:30 AM on the third Wed of the month. For more information, please visit www.siwapage.com Overseas Chinese Women’s Club (OCWC) meets monthly and is open to all women who would like to make new friends, enjoy good food and learn about Chinese culture. Chinese is spoken, but interpretation is available. For more information, please visit our website at ocwckr.spaces.live.com or contact ocwckr@hotmail.com
Announcements Navah Bellydance Company - Looking for performers with dance experience or who are willing to train with Eshe for events in and out of Seoul. eshebellydancer@hotmail.com The Ang Dating Daan Korea Chapter conducts free Bible Study and distributes DVDs of Bible Expositions of the only sensible preacher in our time — Brother Eli Soriano. If you want free copies of Bible Expositions and hear free Bible Study, please call 010-5737-2561 / 010-3004-0817 Amnesty G48 is an official group of Amnesty International Korea. This group is made up of both Korean and foreign volunteers who actively take part in the movement to promote and protect human rights for all people around the world. E-mail Tom for further details @ amnestyseoul@gmail.com. All Native English Speakers, Kyopos, and Koreans. Proficient in English are welcome to join our weekly bible study/fellowship meetup held every saturday at 3 pm. We seek to delve deeply into scripture. Contact Info. 011-359-1317 Bellydance lessons in English in Itaewon at the Well Being Studio by Eshe on Tuesdays and Saturdays. Absolute beginners welcome. Awaken your body and spirit with this ancient healing art. Det ails at w w w.eshebellydancer.com or email eshebellydancer@hotmail.com Bible Study Enthusiasts - Weekly Bible study for Native English Speakers. We are having a weekly Bible Study every Saturday, at 7:30 PM. Everyone is welcome! Call me at 011-359 -1317 or email homechurch-314@meetup.com or homechurch. meetup.com/314/ for further information. Seoul Global Center - Seoul Help Center for foreigners has been renamed and relocated to the Korea Press Foundation Building floor.
horoscope: december Aries
Taurus
Mar 21 - Apr 20
Apr 21 - May20
Career matters are strong and in focus in December, dear Aries, despite some pressure to take charge and a few minor delays and mishaps. You are recognized, appreciated, and even admired. Some rethinking of work and health matters is required now. From the 12-14th, there can be the need to make difficult decisions, a change in your reputation can occur, or others might get fired up over something that you’ve said. The need to assume responsibility for your actions arises. Try to avoid extreme responses. Financials improve in general, and it can be especially easy to find support this month, if necessary.
Improved “signals” in relationships and clearer personal goals contribute to a satisfying month, dear Taurus. Many of the differences you might have been experiencing in partnerships continue to iron themselves out. Overall, you feel back on track and better equipped to manage your life. There may be some pressures, however, to make decisions regarding travel or education in December. Something from the past can be dredged up which changes your point of view. In the second half of the month, there can be the need for big changes in your financial life. Professional goals are clearer, and your reputation demystifies and improves as you gain more clarity, direction, and purpose.
Gemini
Cancer
Your ability to adapt to changing circumstances may be challenged this month, dear Gemini. Luckily, you are quite flexible by nature. Socially, December is very active. You can make important changes to your self-image now. Personal revelations surface around the 21st, and involve a partner. Pressures to make changes on a financial level are likely mid-month. It’s time to shuffle around your budget. Working relationships are far improved in December. You are better able to smooth over differences and create a more harmonious working environment. Casual relationships are also going strong and gaining momentum now that the air is cleared.
Work and daily routines take up much of your time this month, dear Cancer. You are very smooth at handling others and you’ll find that people who have been admiring you “from afar” are now finding you more approachable. Casual relationships fare very well this month. However, partnerships require extra care and attention. Past matters may be illuminated, which at first can feel uncomfortable. There is a need to reinvent your relationship in some way. Greater insight is a reward for your efforts. There can be some pressures to arrive at a decision, however. While you maintain a smooth and happy appearance, there can be quite a bit going on inside.
Leo
Virgo
The general mood for you this month, dear Leo, is playful and happy. You’re desirous of some extra special attention. Communications with family are healthier this month, and you’re feeling back on track with them. There can be some pressures with work or health, however, and you might feel the need to rush decisions regarding these matters. This might have to do with money problems. You are challenged to develop systems that will help you to be more productive, and to pay attention to deadlines, details, and rules in December. By bringing more structure to your life, you will be able to come closer to achieving your dreams. There may be some drama or heightened emotions in a friend’s life around the 21st.
December is strong for financial matters as well as work in communications, dear Virgo. You’re ready to move forward on a great idea you had in recent months, and it’s received well, but it’s better to do so before the 10th. It’s a good time for money-making ideas, advertising, and generally spreading the word. From the 10th forward, you may be a little introspective and indecisive, but creatively speaking, you are raring to go. There could be pressure to make a decision or important changes, however, around the 12-14th, although important decisions are best left for January or February. Changes may be imminent in your romantic life and in your career.
May 21 - June 21
July 23 - Aug 22
June 22 - July 22
Aug 23 - Sept 22
december 2010/GROOVE KOREA/79
konglish of t he mont h runner-up: Cassie andrews &liz Brownsword
horoscope: december Libra
Scorpio
There is considerable focus on your personal and emotional life these days, dear Libra, rather than public and professional goals. This is necessary for the time being, as you aim to become more emotionally centered. December is a busy month for learning, communications, and activities surrounding home and family. There can be some pressure to arrive at a decision regarding domestic matters on the 12-14th. Important errands and shopping are best done before the 10th.You’re feeling a strong desire to acquire goods that make you feel more comfortable, but do try to control spending. News about education or travel can arrive around the 21st. Prepare yourself for changes to your itinerary.
Dear Scorpio, the message you’re giving to others in December is finally very clear - and very attractive! You are coming across especially well, with few rough edges, and others are certainly taking note. You are more approachable, and a relationship is coming back on track. Finally, the ambiguous signals are leaving and both you and a partner can get the clarity you need to move forward. In December, there can be some pressure to make decisions, or to speak about a matter, rather prematurely around mid-month. There may be the need for brutal honesty. Do what you can to take the time you need before arriving at important conclusions. Changes in your financial arrangements may be in store in the second half of December.
Sagitarius
Capricorn
You’re likely to make some powerful decisions about money or personal possessions this month, dear Sagittarius, around the 12-14th. While launching a new project might not be the best idea right now with Mercury retrograde from the 10-30th, new strategies and ideas can be strong and should be duly noted. It’s time to reinvent your attitude towards the management of personal finances. Elimination of frivolous expenses is easier to do now. Troubles in a close partnership are possible if you or a partner don’t embrace the changes that are required of you. Differences in basic values, possibly including how you handle money, can be a focus. Something from the past may come to light and needs your attention. Friendships straighten out in December.
You’re large and in charge this month, dear Capricorn, although something comes to your attention that prompts you to make changes to your image.Your manner this month, from the 7-10 forward, can be a little intimidating if you’re not careful.You are assertive and friendly on one hand, but a little secretive, aloof, and hard to read on the other.You are taking a temporary break from competitive energies and ambitions.They’re not exactly on hold, but you are taking more time to think about what it is you want. Still, you have tremendous energy on your side. Tone down your manner if you can, for maximum success this month. A work matter comes to a head in the second half of the month. Emotions can run high, and you might worry a little more than is healthy. But this can also point to a peak if you handle it well.
Aquarius
Pisces
A strong month for finesse and charm on the job is in store, dear Aquarius. Your reputation is likely to improve, perhaps in part due to the fact that you are feeling more directed in general.You are especially cooperative this month. The second half of the month can bring heightened emotions to your life, surrounding love and creative matters. There can be a sudden awareness, or what seems like a final answer/solution (but likely isn’t), in these areas of your life now. Recognize that communications now can be confused and signals from others misread.You are likely to be wrestling with a decision on a private matter. The need and spirit to celebrate this holiday season runs especially high.
Your love nature is adventurous, open, and exploratory this month, dear Pisces. Your family and domestic affairs demand your strong attention in the second half of December. Changes are in store, and there can be pressure to make important decisions. Emotions are heightened. Attitudes towards friends have been evolving, and this month, you’re experiencing this strongly. You may be growing out of a friendship now, and/or beginning a new one that seems more aligned with your current goals and life direction. There can be some formal recognition of your skills and hard work, and more ambition this month.You’re likely to engage in more team work.
Sept 23 - Oct 22
Nov 22 - Dec 21
The winner will receive a food or entertainment voucher
winner: mike sawyer Crossword
65 “Yeah, sure!” 66 “The Art of Love” poet 67 Take place 68 Web location 69 Winners break it 70 Has to have
down
Across
1 Skywalker foe 6 Boats like Noah’s 10 Male swans 14 “If __ a Rich Man” 15 Panasonic rival 16 Berserk 17 Legal drama on TV 18 Impecunious 19 Brazilian river 20 Blot on the landscape 22 1979 Billy Joel hit 24 Verb-turned-noun 26 French rocket 27 Protectors 29 Ball partner 31 Blakey or Tatum
32 All there 34 Eastern Europeans 38 Amount to be divided 39 Complex Greek king 41 Slimmer swimmer 42 English county 44 Gusto 45 __ Sutcliffe, early Beatle 46 Actionable statement 48 Neater 51 Texas border city 54 Lose one’s cool 56 Cricket teams 58 Affirm 61 Big name in plastic 62 Joan of art 64 Country singer Griffith
80/GROOVE KOREA/december 2010
1 Loathsome 2 Absent 3 Representatives 4 Pencil topper 5 Phrase differently 6 Rockies resort 7 Piglet’s pal 8 Door opener 9 Damascus native 10 Turn turtle 11 D-day beach 12 Element #5 13 Rollerblade 21 Ballet follower 23 Whitman’s “Leaves of __” 25 Defoe and Day-Lewis 27 Yawn 28 “Trinity” novelist 30 Sales force 33 Woodworking tool 35 Domicile 36 __ noire 37 Speak indistinctly 39 Compound 40 Absolute 43 Raise 47 Clever remark 49 Like some patches 50 Disfigure 51 Popular pants 52 Common defense 53 Stopwatch button 55 Lyric poem 57 The Destroyer, in Hinduism 59 Gulf War missile 60 Letter opener 63 Tear
worth W50,000 info@groovekorea.com
sudoku The aim of the puzzle is to insert numbers in the boxes to satisfy only one condition: each row, column and 3x3 box must contain one of each digit from 1-9. Theres is a unique solution, which can be found by logical thinking.
Jan 20 - Feb 18
Oct 23 - Nov 21
Dec 22 - Jan 19
Feb 19 - Mar 20
december 2010/GROOVE KOREA/81
itaewon directorY Chiropractic Clinic (1F) International Clinic (5F) Global Village Center (5F) MJ Custom Tailor (8F) La Bocca M Lounge Between Healing Hands (3F) casAntonio (2F) Los Amigos
Marakech Night Ole Stompers Rock Spot
Helios
Club After 02)792-2232 Club After Inspired by “art informal”- embrace the unconventional and don’t sweat differences “enjoy life like a dog, dance like a bitch.” www.clubafter.co.kr copacabana 02-796-1660 Come to COPACABANA where a mere W29,000 gets you all-you-can-eat of the best Brazilian barbeque and buffet in Korea.
Queen Fire Station
Club After
Don Valley
Unique Travel
Gecko’s Garden 7 Bonji
TMAS
Seoul Pub/ Nashville Jonny Dumpling
Wolfhound
MARAKECH NIGHT (3 LOCATIONS) 02-795-9441 Moroccan & Arabic restaurant offering authentic dishes, atmosphere and music. Wine, beer, juices and yogurt drinks are also available. Enjoy flavored tobacco from traditional shisha pipe.
Copacabana Loca Loca/ Bar 22 (2F)
Outback
Starbucks
club daY last fridaY
Harlem
Zibe
NB2
NB1
Oi
Tinpan 2 Ting Tings Brix
Buy The Way
M2 Yonsei Miplus Dental Clinic
Gr8 Hookah/ Ska
Jokerred Tinpan 1 Myungwolgwan Gogo’s/FF Ska2 Agio Sub-zero VIA Cargo
of the month
360@ The Liquid
Addiction Castle Praha
groove korea
Photo courtesy of VIA
McDonald’s 02-790-6413 Open 24 hours with breakfast served from 5 – 11 AM
Bar Bliss
3 Alley Pub/ Sam Ryan’s
Nomad’s Pool
LA CIGALE MONTMARTRE 02-796-1244 Contemporary French cuisine in cozy and intimate surroundings.with a classy yet casual feel, it has a variety of food which includes a range of mussels. Its terrace brings an outdoor feel yet warm & dry comfort to accommodate the weather.
LOCO LOCA 02-796-1606 Enjoy Salsa music and dancing in the vibrant atmosphere. Freshly baked pizzas with Latino flavors and the very best South American wines will be served.
Unit@Bluespirit
El Plato
Cafe / Bar Club Restaurant Clinic
JONNY DUMPLING 02-790-8830 Enjoy different styles of healthy, handmade dumplings made fresh everyday. Meat as well as vegetarian dumplings are available.
LA PLANCHA 02-790-0063 Spanish grill restaurant includes combination platters along with al la carte side dishes. Feast inside in the warm and cozy atmosphere or sit out on the plant covered terrace.
Gecko’s Terrace B1
hongdae directorY
Don Valley Korean Restaurant 02-796-2384 Conveniently located in the heart of Itaewon, this spacious restaurant accommodates 120 guests for delicious dinners and large parties. Open 24 hours everyday, it specializes in “Korean BBQ Done Right” - grilled beef ribs, bulgogi and bibimbap as well as many others.
Roofers The Loft Pub Panchos Evan Tattoo Jun Pharmacy
9 Timo
Chiropractic Clinic 02-798-1446 American and Australian trained, doctors are fluent in English, Spanish & Korean.
Old Town
Two Broz Rocky Mountain Tavern Sortino’s
Petra
Spice Table Tiffany Nail La Cigale Montmartre Hollywood/Spy Smokey Saloon
Bungalow
Bungalow Tropical Lounge 02-793-2344 This bar and restaurant sets the standards of unique excellence to higher levels - decked out with bamboo, sand, pools, swings, a fireplace and more.
Panchos 02-792-4746 A Mexican bar with darts, pool, television and a wide selection of music. A spacious setting with big windows overlooking Itaewon’s main street.
Urban
La Plancha
Dillinger’s Bar
groove korea
Photo by Ronny Kick
Bu ddh a’s Be Ist lly anb ul Ta co Ta co
Cup & Bowl Bistro Corner Berlin Tony’s Aussie Bar Hey Day Cafe Petra Itaewon Animal Hospital
Rocky Mountain Tavern 010-5775-2327 With a Canadian feel throughout, RMT attracts a crowd for sports coverage, trivia, wings, weekend brunch & live music. SKY Chiropractic & Massage 02-749-4849 US trained and certified chiropractors and massage therapists. SKY Wellness Center integrates chiropractic and massage to correct your body’s imbalances and achieve optimum health and wellness.
What The Book Post Office
Queen Queen welcomes ALL people for who they are and creates an open environment where different people from various backgrounds can cross barriers and unite as one community while having the time of their lives in the ultimate party kingdom!
McDonald’s
TMAS 02-796-7976 Total Martial Arts System. Designed for FOREIGNERS and lessons in English. learn true martial arts, training and spending time together like a family.
All-American Diner The Pizza Peel
Club Volume
Unique Travel 02-792-0606 A travel agency in the heart of Itaewon where English, Japanese and Korean are spoken. Wolfhound Irish Pub 02-749-7971 This two storey Irish pub has a wide variety of imported beers, exceptional food and a great atmosphere. Guinness and Kilkenny on tap. 3 Alley Pub Friendly place with quality service. Trivia Night every Thurs.
82/GROOVE KOREA/december 2010
02-749-3336
december 2010/GROOVE KOREA/83
Mike Friel
pic
of the
month
“The line”
Winner “motion in color”
andrew leonard Out in Cheonho-dong on the day of the Seoul Strobist Club seminar, I was distracted by some college-age Koreans playing with fireworks out by the water. There were 2 particular people having a blast (so to speak) fencing with these sparkler sticks. I slowed that shutter down, and panned. The results were surprising, and I still get the feeling that either I or the subjects are moving every time I look at this photo.
The Groove spc challenge The SPC is an online community of expats in Korea who are interested in learning about and discussing the art of photography. But ‘Seoul Photo Club’ is a bit of a misnomer - membership is free to anyone, anywhere in Korea. Together with Groove Korea we run the photo competition. Each month, a
jan. challenge:
runner-ups
One of the strongest elements you can use in a photograph is the line. Straight or curved, thin or thick, a line can draw the eye, indicate direction, impart stability or add dynamism. How can you employ this most basic of photographic elements in this month’s challenge? Roads, power lines, walls, bridges, chimneys... the list of possibilities goes on and on. Remember, the line needn’t be the subject, but must somehow dominate or heavily influence your image.
Images must have been taken since Nov. 1, 2010. Competition closes on Dec. 19 at noon.
Brian Keathley themed challenge is announced in Groove Korea and at the SPC. Past themes include such topics as Repetition, The Sun and Spring Portrait. Just submit your interpretation at the SPC or via email to have a shot at having your pic published here in Groove Korea and winning the monthly prize. There are two ways to enter. Just join the Seoul Photo Club on Flickr - www.flickr.com/groups/ seoulphotoclub - and add your pic to the competition, or email your entry to aaron.
84/GROOVE KOREA/december 2010
raisey@gmail.com. You must provide your name and contact details plus a 50-150 word description telling us the what/where/ when of the photo. Entries must be at least 2000 pixels on the longest side and 300dpi to meet printing requirements, and be taken no more than two weeks prior to the announcement of the challenge.
For further info, visit the seoul Photo Club on Flickr.
the
lastlaugh by bryan aylward
“FINISH-EEE”
On Dec. 12, I am leaving Korea to go home to Canada.
I have enough bootleg DVD’s to open up my own video superstore; I sometimes bow to other foreigners and I am beginning to dislike Japanese. There was no cardboard that broke the ajuma back moment. It’s just time to go. I have lived in Korea and travelled throughout South Asia since 2003. I have lived five of the past seven years in Asia, with a stint in Canada in 2006. Experiencing Asia has given me many memories that will last a lifetime. Experiences such as canoeing in Cambodia along the Mekong river through a floating village at sunset. I enjoyed camping in the beautiful Korean countryside and I was scared shitless while watching an underground cockfight in Manila. By the way, I was told to hire a bodyguard to take me to the cockfight in Manila. He was 5’3”, 135 pounds. I was 6’3”, 253 pounds. Although I do not consider myself a big table tennis fan, I saw a ping-pong show in Bangkok that was very entertaining.There was also the Full Moon Party of December 2005 on the island of Ko Pha Ngan, Thailand. I also reconnected with my college sweetheart in Korea in my first year here. We got married in Canada on Aug. 10, 2007. I want to be a professional stand up comedian and my wife wants to become an event planner. We are depending on people’s sadness and laziness for our careers back home. Living the life of Riley that we are granted here in Korea, while being employed as a conversational con artist in the parasitic ESL teaching industry challenges your intellect.The governments of the world continue to manipulate and rob us, while organized religions race to the ends of earth to gain control of humanity’s most innocent. Meanwhile, many of us just sit in bars and argue about which beer is better, Cass Red or OB? In the Republic, it seems rebellion is sinking in a sea of compliance. Sorry, that may have been too serious for some. Let’s take a trip to silly town, shall we? For the first time in American history, there are more obese people than there are overweight people. By the way,“overweight” means FAT. Therefore, this is a possible conversation these days: “OMG! Have you seen Sheila lately? She’s SO fat. She looks great!” It would be remiss not to mention the stand-up comedy scene that now exits among the English-speaking expat community in Korea.There is a back story. I had always wanted to give stand-up a try, but my stage
fright squashed my ambition. I jumped up on an open mic stage for the first time, based on a dare, on Nov. 11, 2005 at Rockssins Bar in Anyang. Rockssins was a popular expat hangout in Anyang, a city to the southwest of Seoul. After that night in Anyang, I began telling jokes at open mic rooms throughout Seoul. These were all music open mics. So, I decided to start an all-comedy open mic. I figured there were more funny people out there who wanted to share the stage. Stand Up Seoul began in March, 2009. Stand Up Seoul is Seoul’s first English-speaking comedy room.The show is held on the first Thursday of every month at Rocky Mountain Tavern in Itaewon. It is an open mic event. Each month, a full list of funny people perform to a packed room. There are now other rooms. Every Wednesday in Itaewon, there is a comedy open mic at Aussie Bar and Bistro (aka Tony’s). In Busan, they also have a monthly comedy open mic called “The Ha Ha Hole” which is hosted by the very talented Chris Tharp at Soul Trane. Both these rooms are very popular hangouts and a great chance to see raw comedy at its purest. Personally, I have collected some accolades along the way in my first five years in funny. In 2008, I was runner-up at the Hong Kong International Festival. With this success and some shameless self-promotion, I was invited to headline shows across South Asia and share the stage with top international stand up acts. I have stood on stage and told jokes in such places as Ho Chi Minh, Jakarta, Singapore and Gimhae. While collecting credits in TV, film and radio, I have continued to be a microphone whore. On average, I have performed over 150 gigs a year since 2007. All of these have been for expat audiences throughout South Asia, particularly Korea. I want to use this space and opportunity to thank everybody who has supported me since I first picked up the microphone in 2005. It means so much. I look forward to carving out a career as a stand up comic and Seoul is where it all started. Asia has been amazing to me. It has given me a collection of great memories, the opportunity to teach young people and make money, while being able to find my voice on stage as a comic. However, it’s time to go. RICE. KIMCHI. LAUGH. Goodbye.
I want to use this space and opportunity to thank everybody who has supported me since I first picked up the microphone in 2005.
86/GROOVE KOREA/december 2010