How Korea Fuels the Junta in Myanmar
Aug. 2011 | Issue 58
Your Guide To Finding a
Sports Team Rise of
Kimchibilly 3 Latin Flavors FOR THE
SUMMER GRILL
3 expats in Korea
Fight for Freedom people of Myanmar
need your help
interview
Nobel Peace Prize-Winning Freedom Fighter
Aung San Suu Kyi
Contents Groove Korea | August 2011
with
A Conversation with Aung San Suu Kyi
P. 16
Analysis
How Korea Fuels the Junta in Myanmar........................P. 20
A Political Prisoner's Dining Room of Hell.....................P. 24 3 Expats in Korea Fight for Freedom..........................P. 26 Keeping Strangers' Fingers Off Your Baby.....................P. 30
Contents Groove Korea | August 2011
P. 32 10 What’s On Korea Beat 12 N. Korea Blames it on the Rain 13 Outcry after US G.I. Convicted 14 Int'l Students Struggle in Korea 15 N.K. Regime Loves Rolexes
P. 50
Arts & Culture 32 The Rise of Kimchibilly 34 Jeonju Rock Scene 36 Ian Gott 38 Gwangju Round Robin 39 Artist Nate Rood 42 Probationary Theatre Company 44 "Tactophillia" 46 Korean DVD Corner 48 Book Reviews 49 3rd Tattoo Virus Show Groove with Seoulvibes 50 Oilcan Boyd Destinations 52 Kuta Bay, Bali 56 Malaysian Macaques
P. 52
P. 64
Food & Drink (Latin Food) 58 Spanish, Cuban, Mexican? 60 Three Kings 62 Comedor 64 3 Latin Flavors for Summer 66 Grilled Green Onions Community (Sports) 70 Adventure Sports 72 Gaelic, Flag Football 74 Ice, Ball Hockey 76 Softball, Baseball 78 Ultimate Frisbee 80 Listings 83 Dear Michelle 84 Konglish of the Month 86 Pic of the Month 88 Directory 90 Final Thoughts By John Smith Thang
Cover art courtesy of Shepard Fairey
"Aung San Suu Kyi Offset" www.obeygiant.com
Publishers: Sean Choi and MJ Kim
Music Editor: Summer Walker
Community Editor: Rob McGovern
Editor-in-Chief: Matthew Lamers
Travel & Food Editor: Josh Foreman
Sports Editor: Alex Jensen
Creative Director: Dan Thwaits
International Editor: Adam Walsh
Chief Consultant: Michelle Farnsworth
To contact GROOVE Korea for advertising, submissions or general comments, please email info@groovekorea.com or call 010-7560-5552 Disclaimer: The articles are the sole property of Groove Korea. No reproduction is permitted without the express written consent of Groove Korea. The opinions expressed in the magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher. Issue Date: Vol. 7, Issue 8 - August 1, 2011 Registration Date: January 25, 2008 Registration No. Seoul Ra 11806
TO ADVERTISE: email: ads@groovekorea.com call: 010-5348-0212 P. 77 Website: www.groovekorea.com Twitter: twitter.com/groovekorea Facebook: Groove Korea (Magazine/Group)
info@groovekorea.com submissions@groovekorea.com opinion@groovekorea.com
What’s On Monday
Sunday
August 2011 Tuesday
Quiz Night — Every Wed @ Craftworks in Noksapyeong. Fun for smart people! Free coloring books for dummies
Pasta Day — Every Tues @ The Alley Italian Restaurant & Cafe in Itaewon
16th Busan Sea Festival — Aug 1-9 @ Haeundae beach Massage Mondays @ SKY Wellness Center in Itaewon. 1-hr full body massage and get FREE 20-minute FOOT massage.
2 for 1 Fish & Chips Every Tues @ Wolfhound Pub in Itaewon
Friday
Thursday
Wednesday
Thomas Cook — Aug 4-7 @ Rolling Hall in Hongdae Deryck @ elune in Busan Beach Sound Track @ MAKTUM in Busan RNB Thursday! @ Club Volume — Every Thur
Registration opens for Yongsan District Office — Free Korean Classes
2
Sunday Brunch @ Siberia restaurant in Kyungridan. Starting at 15,000w.
The Ting Tings with W&Whale and Idiotape @ AX-Korea
Bloody Sunday Quiz - 1st Sunday @ Craftworks in Noksapyeong. 6,000 won Bloody Marys! Brunch starts at 11, Quiz at 1.
Heaven Shall Burn @ Rolling Hall in Hongdae
Steak Dinner Every Tues @ Hollywood Grill in Itaewon. Only 13,500 won
4
3 Suji’s Sky High Pastrami Sandwiches — Every Wed @ Suji’s in Itaewon/COEX/Bundang after 5pm get an extra 3.5oz. of pastrami free for a 10.6oz sandwich
FREE Seasoned Chips with Order of San Miguel Pitcher - Tues-Sun @ NOXA lounge 5pm-1am.
7th Jecheon Intl Music & Film Festival — Aug 11-16. www.jimff.org
9
Noeazy, Vassline & More @ Club Spot in Hongdae
Liberation Day
Air Supply @ Olympic Hall
Illionaire Records, The Quiett, Beenzino, Dok2 @ AX-Korea
All Day Breakfast @ Wolfhound in Itaewon. All day, every weekday.
All-you-can-eat Pasta Nite @ Craftworks in Noksapyeong every Tues. Mix and match four different noodles and sauces!
Alpha Steppa @ mansion
Best Sunday Brunch in Town @ Big Rock in Gangnam. 10,000W History of Rock Every Sun @ The Bungalow in Itaewon. 8pm
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10
11
Spoken Word/Stand Up Comedy, Poetry Every Wed @ Tony’s Aussie Bar & Bistro in Itaewon 8-11pm
Rux @ Sangsang Madang in Hongdae
2 for 1 Happy Hour @ NOXA lounge in Kyeongnidan. 7pm-9pm Tues-Thurs.
Shooters Night Every Thur @ Gecko’s in Itaewon. Every shot 4,500 won
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2 for 1 Special @ Bar Bliss in Itaewon. Everyday 7-10pm
Open Mic Every Tues @ Olde Stompers in Itaewon
Open Stage from 8pm Every Thur @ Dolce Vita in Itaewon
Itaewon Global Village Center offers free legal advice
Wing Night Every Tues @ Nashville in Itaewon. 250won/wing. 5-8pm
22
House of Sharing English Tour visits@houseofsharing.org
All-you-can-eat rib eye @ Gogitjip in HBC. 15,000w. Best bbq in town.
Movie Night - Every Sun @ NOXA lounge. 10pm-midnight
Volunteer at Haeshimwon Orphanage through Itaewon Global Village Center
23 Wing Night Every Tues @ Beer O’clock in Sinchon. HALF price with NEW flavors.
Poker Tournament Every Wed @ Fence in Nonhyun
BBQ Night Every Tues @ Roofers in Itaewon BBQ Steak + beer = 12,000 won
Cookin’ Nanta Open run. www.nanta.co.kr
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Mu;nk, Story Seller, Mary Story & More @ Club FF in Hongdae
Play in a Day @ White Box Theatre
5
Free court music, dance performances at Changgyeong Palace — Every Sat. in Aug
6
Green Groove 2011 — Aug 13-14 Bustah Rhymes, Afro Jack & More @ Daecheon Beach in Boryeong Jake Shimabukuro @ Yonsei University Memorial Hall Jamie & Sol @ HEAVEN Little Travellers Photo Scavenger Hunt littletravellerskorea@gmail.com
Volunteer at Yongsan Center for the Disabled through Itaewon Global Village Center
12
13
Asia Top Gallery Hotel Art Fair. Aug. 19-21 Grand Hyatt Hotel
The Geeks, Thing We Say & More @ Club Spot in Hongdae
Yellow Monsters – 2nd Album Release @ Sangsang Madang in Hongdae
Save the Air Green Concert Moonlight on the Rooftop and Bard @ Sangsang Madang in Hongdae Ash & Gray @ Soundholicity in Hongdae Ladies’ night @ Big Rock in Gangnam. FREE cocktails for the ladies
FREE Cheese Plate with Order of Bottle of Wine - Every Fri, Sat @ NOXA lounge. 5pm-1am
19
Nate Rood exhibit at Jeonju City Gallery in Gaeksa
20
SIPRIPO Beach Fest in Incheon. The BIGGEST beach party in Korea
Gwangju World Music Festival. Aug. 26-28. www.gjwmf.com/2011eng/
UBLOVE’s Global End of Summer Party @ Club SAAB in Hongdae
Drag Bingo Night Every Fri @ Bar Bliss in Itaewon. 9pm
Itaewon Global Village Center movie of the month “My Father”
The Koxx @ V-Hall in Hongdae
Itaewon Global Village Center hosts Living in Seoul session
25
26
Rain @ Daegu Exco Pansori: a Traditional Korea Folk Play @ National Theater of Korea
27
Pentaport Rock Festival Aug 5-7 • • • •
30
Starwarz @ eden
Monni @ Sangsang Madang in Hongdae
Wing Night @ Orange Tree in Haebangchon. 10 for 3,000won
Guinness Day Every Tues @ Gecko’s in Itaewon
28
18
24
Ditto @ mASS
Pre-Itaewon Party Every Fri @ Siberia in Kyeongnidan. Real Russian vodka shots at 3,000won
Jazz Festival Every Thur @ La Cigale Montmartre in Itaewon. 7pm
Happy Hour Every Wed @ Bar Bliss in Itaewon
Volunteer at Yongsan Senior Welfare Center through Itaewon Global Village Center
21
17 College Night — Every Wed @ Club mass in Gangnam. No cover & 1 FREE drink with student ID til midnight
Huey @ HEAVEN
Bucket Night Every Fri @ Beer O’clock in Sinchon. 5 shots with mix in a bucket 12,000 won
No Cover & 1 FREE Drink Every Sun @ Club mass in Gangnam til midnight
14
Busan International Rock Festival — Aug 5-7 Crying Nut, No Brain, Gogo Star & More @ Samrak Riverside Park
Craze @ Volume
English Teachers’ Night — Every Fri @ Big Rock in Gangnam. 10% OFF for teachers.
Men’s Nite @ Craftworks in Noksapyeong every Thurs. 1000w of our Geumgang Mtn. Dark Ale and each one of our 24 single malts. Dames welcome.
8
National Pigeon Unity wth Apollo 18 @ Badabie in Hongdae
Wagwak, Party Horse, Pika @ Freebird in Hongdae
Seoul Fringe Festival in Hongdae — Aug 11-28
Drunken Chicken Night @ Gecko’s in Itaewon
7
Pentaport Rock Festival — Aug 5-7 Korn, The Ting Tings, Plain White T's & More @ Dreampark in Incheon
No Brain, DJ DOC, Crying Nut & More — Aug 5-7 @ Naksan Beach (Seoraksan)
Itaewon Global Village Center children’s activity at Ddeok Museum
1
Saturday
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Korn !!! The Ting Tings Plain White T’s Neon Trees
• • • • • • •
Mamas Gun Joe Brooks No Brain Idiotape Boowhal 13 Steps Garion
• • • • •
Galaxy Express Vassline Prana The Black Shirts AND MORE...
3rd Tattoo Virus — Sept. 3-4 Samsung-dong area. www.tattoovirus.com august 2011| www.GROOVEKOREA.com| 11
Korea Beat
All stories translated by Nathan Schwartzman at www.koreabeat.com — Ed.
Outcry After U.S. Soldier is ‘Unjustly’ Convicted
North Korea Blames it on the Rain Defector Admits to Making Steroids for Nation’s National Sports Program After five North Korean athletes who participated in the 2011 women’s World Cup in Germany were found to have used banned substances, a high-ranking North Korean defector admitted to producing steroids when he was involved with the country’s sports organizations. North Korea said of the doping rumors that, “our athletes take traditional Korean medicine containing musk, and steroids came into their bodies by accident during medical treatment.” Pyongyang said it administered the musk to five of its athletes after they were simultaneously struck by lightning while training for the tournament. The reclusive nation went as far as to blame a loss to the U.S. at the World Cup on the lightning strike. “I manufactured banned substances for the North Korea national team,” the defector,
known only as Mr. A, said. “The Sports Science Research Institute, which is affiliated with the Physical Culture and Sports Ministry, has factories in the Pyongyang areas of Daetaryeong 2-dong and Seoseong-gu, and they specialize in making substances for athletic training … Outwardly they appear to be energy drinks, but they are actually banned substances.” The defector said that North Korea acquired the know-how to manufacture the substances by sending employees of the Physical Culture and Sports Ministry to East Germany in the second half of the 1980s. “(The athletes) can quickly recover their strength and pass any doping test,” Mr. A said. “In North Korea, it is a daily thing for athletes to take drugs… Ri Myeong-seong, a member of the joint North-South team at the eighth FIFA World Youth Championship in Portugal in June of 1991 was rebuked by the South Ko-
rean coaching staff for offering drugs.” The North Korean military also manufactures drugs for athletes. According to Mr. A, the North Korean armed forces has manufactured drugs to enhance its soldiers’ fighting abilities at the 11th Hospital of the People’s Army since the 1970s. The lead persons in charge of the manufacture of performance enhancing drugs in North Korea are Physical Culture and Sports Minister Park Myeong-cheol and First Vice Minister Jang Ung. Park was a childhood friend of dictator Kim Jong-il and has been the “red-boned” head of the North Korean sports world for at least 30 years. The Associated Press reported that the incident is the biggest doping scandal at a major tournament since Maradona was ejected from the 1994 World Cup in the United States.
SNU Plans to Recruit More Foreigners, N.K. Defectors Seoul National University, one of the top-three schools in the country, is planning to recruit more foreign students, children of North Koreans defectors and Korean kids that went to school abroad. The beneficiaries include those whose parents are foreigners, North Koreans, and those who completed elementary, middle, and high school abroad.
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“We have decided to implement this policy because the beneficiaries of the foreign-applicant track come from different schools with very different curriculums from Korea, and their backgrounds and talents bring needed experiences,” said Kim Yeong-jang, director of admissions at the university. “They will be selected based on their individual environments, high school records, and potential.”
A two-year prison sentence for an American soldier that had been accused of robbing a taxi driver has caused a stir in Korea’s expat community. U.S. Army Private First Class Andre Fisher is scheduled to appear in an appeals court on Aug. 9. The incarcerated former high school football star’s parents say he is serving time for a crime he did not commit, according to WNEP-TV. According to a report by the TV station, "It's like he's a the man's parents said their son was outforgotten perside a night club near the North Korean border when a taxi driver accused Fisher son," his dad was of stealing $88 from him. A Korean judge quoted as saying. sentenced Fisher to two years in prison. "He would never "It's like he's a forgotten person," his take any money dad was quoted as saying. "He would that wasn't his or never take any money that wasn't his or anything, never," anything, never," his mother added. his mother added. A U.S. Army spokesman told the TV station that the military had no information on Fisher's case and would not comment. In other U.S. military news, Uijeongbu police are investigating a claim by a female member of the U.S. military that she was sexually assaulted by a 25-year-old man in early July. The suspect, known as Mr. A, is accused of sexually assaulting 18-year-old Ms. B, a private in the 2nd Infantry Division, in the basement of a building in Uijeongbu, Gyeonggi Province. Police apprehended the suspect on later the same day. According to the police, Mr. A has been drinking in a nightclub in the same basement when he followed Ms. B into the bathroom and sexually assaulted her. Mr. A was caught on camera with Ms. B by a female colleague. Police plan to apply for an arrest warrant for Mr. A when their investigation is complete.
Councilor Attacks Another Councilor It was recently reported that 44-year-old Shin Chang-yong, a member of the Grand National Party and representative in the Dongbugu Council, struck 62-year-old Lee Seok-gi, also a GNP representative, inflicting facial injuries that took three weeks to heal. Rep. Shin attacked Rep. Lee for not hiring a person he had recommended. According to the Dongbu-gu Council and the police, Rep. Shin was drunk and wearing exercise clothes when he went onto the council floor and began an argument with Rep. Lee, and consequently beat Rep. Lee for over five minutes. Shin said Lee had hired his preferred candidate for executive secretary over one recommended by the former. Lee filed a report with the police soon after. “Rep. Lee has been investigated, but because of the council’s schedule we have not summoned Rep. Shin for investigation … we need to further investigate their precise relationship,” said a police spokesperson. august 2011| www.GROOVEKOREA.com| 13
Korea Beat
Int’l students Struggle to Fit In at Korean Colleges International students in Korean universities have been found to be frequently ostracized, according to recent media reports. At a private university in Seoul, it was recently time to assign summer classes. One woman, a 22-year-old international student from China, raised her hand as soon as her name was written and complained. The professor looked at the student once, asked her “to which class do you want to move?” and
www.koreabeat.com
then moved her immediately. Noticing this, other students also raised their hands to request certain classes, and soon the woman’s course had only foreign students who spoke accented Korean. “I knew that Korean students try to avoid courses that have foreign students, but I was really upset to see many of them trying to move,” she said. Caught in a war for god grades, foreign international students are losing their footing. Universities bring in the foreign students and then expand their English classes, but those foreign students tend to be excluded from regular classes. Another international student, a 21-yearold man from Azerbaijan, said foreign students are excluded from class events. “If I go
to such events with Korean students, it will be like I’m invisible … the Korean students have no patience for foreigners who have trouble speaking Korean.” He had attended such events twice, but was never invited back. When a 23-year-old international student from China wanted to be involved in a class atmosphere, she found it difficult. “It seems that Korean university students go out and drink after class events and become friends that way … but female Chinese students mostly do not drink alcohol, so it’s like we have no chance to become friends with Korean students.” She also spoke of the difficulties that arise between international students and Korean students. “During one class event, a Korean student said some very insulting things about Chinese people, so I cursed at him in Chinese,” she said. Korean students have complaints about foreign students who cannot fit in. A 23-year-old Korean university student said that, “frankly, if I go to a class event with foreign students it makes me tired because there are not as many Korean students to talk to as there are in other classes.” Lee Jin-seop, head of the foreigners’ help center at Kyunghee University, said more work need to be done on both ends. “To achieve a comfortable atmosphere for foreign students, we all need to work hard … our methods include special events in the city for foreign students, cultural experiences, and staying in touch with them to give advice.”
Incheon School Rocked by Molestation Charges The Incheon school board was rocked in July when about a group of parents came forward with accusations that a grade 2 teacher had been molesting their children. The Incheon Office of Education is investigating a complaint that a teacher at an elementary school repeatedly molested secondgrade students. The parents who registered the complaint are refusing to send their children to school and demanded that the teacher be transferred. According to the Incheon Office of Education, more than 10 parents of second-grade students at the elementary school cosigned a letter that was sent to the principal in which they said, “this teacher touches our children’s bottoms and molests them in other ways during reading time,” and demanded that the teacher be transferred and punished accordingly. The parents demanded the school disclose all it knows about the incidences. In addition, the parents have refused to send their children to the school and 28 of the 29 students in the class were not sent to school on the day the letter was submitted. The school board responded by opening an investigation. “The parents believe that the teacher has repeatedly touched their children’s bottoms during classes, and the children, feeling upset, told this to their parents … we are currently investigating,” said an official with the Incheon Office of Education. Another official at the school explained that the accused teacher “apologized to the parents for causing controversy.” The official added that “if the students feel ashamed, then this is a problem, and the parents’ demands will be closely examined.”
N.K. Rulers Stockpile Rolexes While North Korea ramped up efforts to secure rice aid to make up for a shortfall in the communist nation’s supply, its rulers have been importing Rolex watches made in Switzerland. From January through May, North Korea imported 229 Swiss-made watches and components worth 48 million won ($45,000), Radio Free Asia reported. Among the watches imported by North Korea were 174 spring-wound and 55 battery-operated watches worth an average of $198 apiece. North Korea did not import any watches during the first quarter of last year. North Korea imported 284 Swiss watches in 2007, 449 in 2008 and 662 in 2009, an increase each year, but that fell to 339 in all of 2010. The watches are believed to be prized gifts for the birthday of the nation’s dictator, Kim Jong-il, which falls on Feb. 16. “The Swiss watches used as gifts in North Korean politics are called ‘business-card watches’ and inscribed with the name of Kim Jong-il,” a North Korean refugee who lives in Washington told Radio Free Asia. “To verify their origin, the undersides have serial numbers and if it is discovered that one is sold or lost, there will be punishment… in North Korea, receiving a Swiss watch makes you important.” The Swiss are known to have leased a spot at a wharf for Najingclass ships in a North Korean free economic zone, showing that North Korea is not concerned with its relationship with the European Union. “North Korea imports watches not from China, where they would be cheaper, but directly from Switzerland. This says the Swiss” have no qualms trading with North Korea, said Hong Ik-pyo, head of policy research at the Korea Institute for International Economic Policy. 14 | www.GROOVEKOREA.com| august 2011
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Analysis
A Conversation with Aung San Suu Kyi The author is a human rights campaigner and has followed the situation in Myanmar for a number of years. Based in Brussels, Belgium, he currently works in the area of gender equality and girls' rights. The opinions expressed here are solely those of the author's, unless otherwise attributed. -- Ed.
article & photos By Adam Vink
Only recently released from a period of house arrest lasting close to two decades, National League for Democracy (NLD) Leader Aung San Suu Kyi remains a striking and elegant figure, in excellent health and spirits despite her many years of confinement and hardship. She speaks in a calm, considered and erudite manner, with a passion and conviction that seems utterly bereft of resentment or malice.
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august 2011| www.GROOVEKOREA.com| 17
Analysis
On learning my nationality she expresses her fondness for the Kiwi bird; "so incongruous, so improbable," she said. I suggest that perhaps these are qualities she can identify with - she giggles before answering "maybe." I apologize for my attire; several hours among the large crowd in the heat of Yangon in June, along with a short stint linking arms with the NLD security team attempting crowd control, had left my shirt drenched with sweat. Suu Kyi, in an immaculate purple dress, the famous floral arrangement in her hair, gave a reassuring look and assured me it was quite standard attire for this office. At that moment, I was reminded of the striking contrast between the image of the intelligent, passionate and courageous woman sitting opposite me, and the hyper-masculine, unimaginative and oppressive military machine that is bent on silencing her. Our conversation quickly turns to Suu Kyi’s view of the political situation in Myanmar in her 66th year, and the strange new atmosphere the NLD finds itself in following last year’s elections and her subsequent release. “If there is one message I would like those outside Burma to hear, it is to remain alert,” she said. She brings up the fighting that broke out just a few days before our meeting between government forces and Kachin rebels - one of many minority ethnic groups ruthlessly exploited by the regime. “(The fighting) is the proof we have all been expecting, that the newly formed civilian government is neither willing nor able to work towards any form of national reconciliation,” she said. “A government must firstly protect its citizens, and it is clear that this one doesn’t seem to be prepared to carry out this duty.” Elaborating, Suu Kyi explains, "By ‘alert,’ what I mean is that it is more important than
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"The regime claims it acts against us in the name of stability,” she said. Pointing in the direction of the crowd gathered outside, she adds, “(however), we have never in 20 years caused any trouble. ever to hold this regime to account and not to be fooled by its new guise." Acknowledging that her release is a part of this, she repeats the message given by her colleagues earlier in the day, that by releasing her, relaxing its treatment of the NLD supporters and its leadership, and by orchestrating the charade of an election, the regime hopes to buy enough favor from the international community to encourage further foreign investment in the country. She adds that nobody quite knows what to expect from the regime in response to her upcoming tour of the country, and in the future. "The regime claims it acts against us in the name of stability,” she said. Pointing in the direction of the crowd gathered outside, she adds, “(however), we have never in 20 years caused any trouble. Furthermore, (the regime) gets to define what stability and instability is. The trouble only takes place when they show up." We half-joke that it is the ludicrous manipulation of a word like “stability” that seems often to give authoritarian regimes the world over their own sense of vindication. I mention that when signing a visa application form to enter Myanmar, one also agrees not to “interfere” in the internal politics of Myanmar. “Yes!” Suu Kyi laughs. “What is the definition of interfere?”
We move on to Suu Kyi's interpretation of events taking place in the Middle East. Her response to comparisons with the Myanmar situation is emphatic. “I don't think we can expect the so-called 'Arab Spring' to come to Burma.” While she believes these events are inspiring to many with access to outside information, the reality in Myanmar is that the majority of people are kept painfully ignorant about the outside world, despite the government’s efforts at censorship appearing clumsy and crude to visitors to the country. Moreover for Suu Kyi, Myanmarese remain profoundly frightened by their leaders. ”The people know for sure that their government will fire on them if they take to the streets like in the Middle East. Burma is still governed very much by fear," she said. My time with Suu Kyi is not long; on this day as any other she has much to do and many people to see. I offer my gratitude in what feeble Burmese I know, and after a small informal exchange, I am ushered out by senior party members into the dank and derelict foyer, where others wait to meet with the Lady of Yangon. The passion, joy and enthusiasm of the crowd that greets me finally as I quit the building is palpable, and I reflect once again on the absurdity of such an affecting country of enormous antiquity and vast mineral wealth enduring the humiliation and degradation of a cruel and despotic gang of thugs. Those assembled in the shadow of the Schwedagon Pagoda – intensely effulgent in the late afternoon sun – experienced a small glimpse of a life free from fear; it seems more urgent than ever that the world take notice of Myanmar, and to the message of its most famous daughter, to ensure more days like these.
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Analysis In light of Myanmar’s oppressed majority, human rights violations and military exchanges with North Korea, one might expect a democratically elected South Korean government to refrain from engaging in economic activities that line the pockets of Myanmar’s oppressors and likely grant North Korea’s armed forces financial benefits. South Korea, however, has chosen to take a different approach. By the end of last year, Seoul’s foreign direct investment in Myanmar had increased 10 times since Rangoon opened up its economy to foreign investment in the late 1980s. The expanding relationship includes increased cooperation in oil and gas extraction, education, technology, trade and investment. Cooperation is expanding year by year. This begs the question of whether this increased economic activity has lead to positive changes for the average Myanmarese. The evidence thus far is far from positive. The question must be asked: At what point do ethical, strategic and political costs associated with Myanmar trade outweigh financial benefits for South Korea?
Nature of the Relationship
How Korea Fuels the Junta in Myanmar By Matthew Lamers & Sidney Russell
Illustration by Matt Ferguson (inkonpaper.org.uk)
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Cooperation between South Korea and Myanmar includes the founding of an automotive technical training school in Magwe Division, joint investment in food production and an increase in trade and investment including in the mining, agriculture, forestry, marine, pharmaceutical, tourism, construction, electronic and computer sectors. In June of last year, the ASEAN-Korea Center sent an investment mission comprised of industry experts and representatives from 18 South Korean companies to Myanmar to visit a number of government agencies and survey the IT and garment industries to identify areas for future investment. Trade is roaring between the two countries. Myanmar’s exports to South Korea in 2009 amounted to $78 million, and imports from South Korea reached $406 million in the same year. South Korea is now the third largest foreign investor in Myanmar, having poured in $2.92 billion in foreign investment between 1988 and March 2011. Over the same period, Korean investment contributed just over 8 percent of Myanmar's total foreign investment, which totaled $36.05 billion. South Korea is now the seventh largest market for exports from Myanmar. Much of this investment is going into the oil and gas sector, which received half of the $20 billion in FDI pumped into the country over the last year alone. South Korea’s Daewoo International Corp. heads an international consortium working on a gas development project in the Shwe natural gas fields in Rhakine (formerly Arakan) State in the west of the country, where there are three independent offshore gas deposits; Shwe and Shwephyu in block A1 and Mya in block A3 were first discovered by the South Korean company’s own exploration efforts in 2004. Of this project, Daewoo owns 51 per cent and an additional 8.5 percent is owned by the South Korean state-run Korea Gas Corporation (KOGAS). Reports say Daewoo International is investing $4.7 billion to $4.8 billion in Myanmar. Construction is well underway on the $1.4 billion Shwe gas pipeline that will carry gas from Myanmar’s offshore fields to southern China upon completion in 2013. A number of companies are working together to construct and operate the pipeline, including Daewoo and KOGAS, who hold stakes of 25 and 4 percent, respectively. Hyundai Heavy Industries is also involved
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Analysis Much of this investment is going into the oil and gas sector, which received half of the $20 billion in FDI pumped into the country over the last year alone. in the project, constructing the steel pipes and gas terminals. It is interesting to note that Korean President Lee Myung-bak is a former CEO of the company. On a recent visit to South Korea’s capital to attend the Plant Industry Forum on June 22, Myanmar’s Union Minister for Electric Power No. 2 U Khin Maung Soe took the time to travel down to Ulsan to personally visit Hyundai Heavy Industries. For Myanmar’s generals, whose 50-year rule had involved numerable human rights abuses, one of the last potential deep water natural gas reserves in the world is nothing but a cash cow. And over in Korea, whose own experiment with authoritarian rule ended 23 years ago (albeit with much richer results), its economy consumed 2.16 million barrels of oil per day in 2010, the 10th most in the world. The country is starving for energy. (Curiously, none of the natural gas deposits discovered by Daewoo in blocks A1 and A3 will find its way to Korea.) It’s not only oil that South Korea needs. Lacking almost every natural resource necessary to fuel its economic machine, South Korea is competing with other fast-growing countries China and India in Asia to secure a steady stream of rare earths. In a visit to Myanmar to discuss the possibility of South Korean companies mining rare earth metals in December of 2010, Vice Minister of Knowledge Economy Park Young-june asked that the country allow Korean companies to carry out onshore exploration, something that current law there forbids. Indeed, most of Korea’s investments are in the non-sustainable extractive sector. The generals have put up a “for sale” sign, and Korea’s waiting in line. That’s not to say that all South Korean investments are for the purpose of extracting resources. In January of this year, there was discussion between South Korea’s stock market operator, the Korea Exchange (KRX) and Myanmarese officials about the possibility of opening of a stock market there. The lack of a domestic stock market has long handcuffed its struggling economy. With limited ways to raise capital, Myanmarese companies can barely survive on their own turf, let alone in overseas markets. It’s probably not a coincidence that the absence of a stock market has elevated the economic importance of the military, so if the KRX is successful in helping bring Myanmar a market, it has the potential to spur competition and provide the private sector with a new source
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of capital. That would ultimately lower the military’s leverage over the economy. There are also clear moves to increase tourism between the two countries, with Myanmar Airways International planning to launch direct flights between Seoul and Yangon by the end of this year. There are competing views on how tourism helps or harms repressed and impoverished populations. But while despot-tourism enriches rulers, there’s no doubt that responsible tourism can help local communities immensely.
Big Bucks for the Junta According to the country’s official figures, foreign investment in Myanmar for the financial year 2010 was larger than the last 20 years combined. While few are convinced that the recent elections have signaled a shift to democratization, it is much less of a mental leap to reach the conclusion that any major economic investments are steadily filling the pockets of the junta and its cronies rather than going to benefit the majority of the people of Myanmar, who lived off $1,400 in 2010 on average. The junta and its associates have a tight grip on much of the economy and the country has struggled to grow economically since independence. Even with the opening up of the market to foreign investment after the pro-democracy uprisings of 1988, it is difficult to see a major improvement in the lives of ordinary citizens. Myanmar entered the 20th century as the wealthiest nation in Southeast Asia, but a century later the nation’s military had made it the poorest. This fact should resonate in a capital city just an hour south of one of the poorest and most threatening places on the planet. (At the onset of the Korean War, it was North Korea that was the economic and industrial power on the peninsula, while the South was mostly agrarian. Fast forward 60 years and South Korea is one of the richest countries in the world, while millions of North Koreans struggle to find food). While poverty is widespread amongst the general population, corruption in Myanmar is rife and characterizes how the generals run the country. Myanmar ranks second to last in Transparency International’s corruption index, tied with Afghanistan, one notch below Iraq and ahead of only Somalia. A look at the national budget is quite revealing. It has been estimated in the past that 40 to 60 percent of national spending
goes to the military, while a 2007 report by the International Institute for Strategic Studies claimed that 0.4 percent went to healthcare and a measly 0.5 percent to education. The official budget for 2011–2012 allocates 23.6 percent for defense, 4.13 percent for education and 1.3 percent for healthcare. The energy sector will receive the second largest share at 13 percent. Myanmar’s newly elected parliament – its first in two decades - was not given oversight of the country’s budget. According to the Government Gazette, the document was enacted before parliament met on Jan. 31 for the first time. The election was supposed to hand power to a civilian government after decades of military rule, but what’s a government to do if it doesn’t have any money? Myanmar now stands as the second-largest exporter of gas in the Asia-Pacific region. While the gas sector provides massive revenue for the military government, it is also perhaps the largest official export sector (though it is believed that the unofficial market may be roughly the same size), meaning that the country’s rich natural resources are largely being extracted to be carted off to distant shores. This is hardly a plan for the development of the region’s poorest country, especially when all of the gas extracted from the offshore blocks A1 and A3 under the Daewoo-led project will be sold to an affiliate of China National Petroleum Corporation. The second largest sector for total foreign investment since 1988 is the electricity sector. Anyone who has visited anywhere in Myanmar will know that the frequent daily power outages are indicative of how this investment has a hard time trickling down to benefit the common people or to develop infrastructure for the country’s own benefit. In fact, 80 percent of the population does not have consistent access to electricity.
Sanctions for Whom? Sanctions can be used to force a regime to bow to international pressure for reform, but as a tool sanctions are very difficult to refine. Sometimes sanctions fail altogether and fuel disobedient regimes, even becoming their raison d'etre. More often than not, they end up impacting more on the common people. And this is where we stand in Myanmar. Current sanctions imposed by Japan, the European Union, the United States, Canada and Australia have failed to hit the generals where it hurts – in the pocket. The cur-
rent sanctions regime has done nothing to slow the flow of oil (as stated, one of the generals’ biggest source of wealth). Most aforementioned countries ban military shipments to Myanmar and impose a degree of investment embargos. Interestingly, when the United States widened its sanctions in 1997 to include new investments, it exempted Unocal's (now Chevron's) gas project under a grandfather clause that omitted companies already carrying out business at the time without increasing their investment. With the ability to exploit a share of Myanmar’s 90,000 billion cubic feet of gas and 3.3 billion barrels in oil reserves, South Korean corporations may be betting that the Myanmarese government will continue to value profits over human rights, because it’s hard to see a truly representative government sending most of its energy resources abroad while the majority of its people are kept in the dark - literally. Further, South Korean investment lines the pockets of the military generals, which pull the strings in this faux-democracy. By doing so, South Korea renders ineffective the economic sanctions designed to press the junta to introduce real democracy. EarthRights International has called for an immediate moratorium on gas pipeline construction, citing a lack of transparency and corruption around the project, as well as a host of alleged human rights abuses. Along with an inevitable military buildup to protect the pipeline, one EarthRights International report documents “land confiscation, inadequate compensation, and a lack of free, prior, and informed consent of local people.” There is also “harassment and intimidation by state agents, arbitrary detention and torture, and forced labor associated with the (onshore pipeline construction) projects.” The report has been published in English and Korean to make it readily available for any interested government legislator or corporate leader to view. Daw Aung San Suu Kyi and her now banned National League for Democracy (NLD) party still support near blanket economic sanctions. But recently the party issued a statement encouraging conscientious tourism, in what was a major shift in its tourism policy. After Myanmar launched its Visit Myanmar initiative in 1996, the NLD had advocated a tourism boycott. The party announced it would relax the boycott in November 2010 when the Nobel Peace laureate was released from house arrest. The NLD now encourages tourism in small groups to widen knowledge of the populace’s political restrictions and economic disparity, but is resolute that visitors not use large tour or cruise operators, which it claims contribute "significant revenue to the dictatorship."
Dangerous Bedfellows When you go to bed with tyrants, it is wise
to consider who else may be outside the bedroom door waiting for their turn. In an observation noted by Democratic Voice of Myanmar writer Joseph Allchin, South Korean investment could potentially be used to fund the nuclear programs of North Korea, given the possible collaboration between the North and Myanmar on nuclear relatedactivities exposed by Wikileaks. The Myanmar-North Korea ties and Pyongyang’s threat to the South shouldn’t be taken lightly. The rogue country warned of a "sacred war" against South Korea in June, less than a year after it launched two brazen attacks, one on a South Korean naval vessel and another on a South Korean civilian population. While there is not yet enough evidence to confirm any substantial nuclear-related activity between the two nations, they maintain military ties, and such a circumstance should certainly give South Korean authorities food for thought, not to mention placing South Korean corporations in a compromising predicament. It was only in May that the U.S. destroyer McCampbell shadowed a North Korean cargo ship believed to be en route to Myanmar with what was believed to be components for missiles. Sailing under the flag of the Central American nation of Belize, the vessel reversed course after being spotted off China’s southeastern coast. Indeed, in November 2008, Gen Thura Shwe Mann, Myanmar’s third-ranking general, visited North Korea to sign a memorandum of understanding that formalized military cooperation between Myanmar and North Korea. While it is unfortunate that economic gains and military alliances sometimes trump human rights abuses – circumstances that most wealthy nations find themselves in Asia’s fourth richest country has been living with this omnipresent military threat since it
was invaded by North Korea in 1950. A reasonable estimate has 13,000 well-fortified artillery units pointed southward. Another says Pyongyang’s artillery and hundreds of missiles are capable of flattening Seoul in the first 30 minutes of a full-scale war. The military exchanges between Myanmar and North Korea are real. Military cooperation between two rogue nations benefits no one but the tyrants at the helm. If South Korea overlooks human rights abuses in Myanmar to pursue economic ends, at the very least, it might want to take into consideration the military quandary it puts itself in. Seoul can use its economic leverage for its own benefit and that of the people of Myanmar. Considering South Korea’s economic might and the increased bilateral trade between it and Myanmar, Seoul could use its leverage to pressure Myanmar’s authorities to carry out real democratic reforms – as called for by political prisoners and countless others inside the country. If that’s not a road it wants to go down, Seoul should send its trillions of won elseware so long as Myanmar’s military continues to do business with North Korea’s military. Under the current circumstances, there are more reasons not to trade with Myanmar than there are for. This is the reality: Myanmar’s profits from these ventures are being siphoned off to fill the pockets of the junta and their cronies, while a miniscule amount is used to educate or care for the health of the people. South Korea is allowing the junta to ignore calls from its own people to improve their lot, and South Korea may also be putting itself at greater risk from North Korea’s military. The opinions are the authors’ and do not necessarily represent those of Groove Korea. To comment, e-mail opinion@groovekorea.com.
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Analysis Insein Prison is the biggest. It is notorious for torture, the spread HIV/AIDS and the male child sex trade. It has been estimated that there is only one 100-bed hospital for more than 10,000 prisoners and male child prisoners are bought and sold for non-political prisoners’ sexual pleasure.
A Political Prisoner’s Dining Room of Hell Activist Speaks Out Against Myanmar’s Bid to Chair ASEAN in 2014
By Naing Ko Ko / photo courtesy of All Burma Federation of Student Unions The author is a former political prisoner who spent over five years inside Myanmar’s prison system, including one-and-a-half years inside the notorious Insein Prison. He was the recipient of the 2010 Amnesty International New Zealand Human Rights Defender Award and resides in New Zealand where he heads Burma Campaign New Zealand, which he founded in 2007. The opinions expressed here do not necessarily represent those of Groove Korea. To comment, e-mail opinion@groovekorea.com - Ed.
The hybrid military-civilian government of Myanmar recently granted amnesty to 14,600 prisoners, 47 of whom were political. The imputes was its bid to chair the Association of Southeast Asian Nations (ASEAN) in 2014. Although Myanmar’s attempt may not affect me directly, I am deeply concerned for the thousands of political prisoners who remain behind bars, millions of people from different ethnic nationalities who have been literally under attack, and the millions more who have been forced to flee.
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Not without warrant, Myanmar has been described as one of the worst human rights violators in the world since Aug. 8, 1988, and its governing regime has been ranked as one of the lowest in numerous human rights reviews and freedom indexes. However, some neighboring countries have given favor to this new regime and have supported its bid to be the chair of ASEAN. A troubling fact is that some members of ASEAN lobbied member Asia Pacific rim states to revoke economic sanctions that have been imposed on the regime. It is time to rethink the achievements and development of human rights and freedom in not only Myanmar, but also in member countries of ASEAN and the Asia Pacific region. However, I would like to focus specifically on the military regime of Myanmar that has dominated the country since 1962, especially as it continues to be the black sheep in the family of Asia Pacific nations. Conditions in Myanmar - and inside its prisons in particular - have worsened at the same time that regional economies have translated remarkable economic growth into better welfare systems. Although this regime released dozens of political prisoners recently, there are still more than 2,000 political prisoners locked up. I spent over five years inside Myanmar’s prison system as a political prisoner, including one-and-a-half years inside the notorious Insein Prison. Let’s take a look at the living conditions of Myanmar’s political prisoners. When political prisoner are arrested in Myanmar, they are interrogated for a couple of weeks by military intelligence officers. No political prisoner ever knows whether it is day or night during the investigation period, as intelligence personnel blindfold them and put hoods over their heads. They are fed only a teaspoon of water a day. Neither rice nor curry is provided. Most are put into cold and dark rooms without a pillow or blanket. None are allowed to take a shower. Some are tortured by electric shock as their legs shackled. The majority of political prisoners are tortured both physically and mentally. Even before finishing the interrogation, the junta’s henchmen have decided upon a sentence. Political activists are usually
sentenced to long periods of imprisonment with hard labor. Every political prisoner has lost his or her basic rights as a human being before even entering a courtroom. The prison diet is neither sustainable nor nutritious. After the two-week interrogation, prisoners are given cooked rice with a strong, bad smell, and the so-called curry is a watery blend of green roots with a spoonful of fish-paste. Medical treatment and medicine are out of the question. No political prisoner is allowed to read or write in prison. No library, newspaper, radio, or magazine is provided for political prisoners. This has prompted a few student political prisoners to bribe wardens to gain access to an English-Burmese dictionary, grammar books and Time magazines to teach themselves English. They studied English with plastic bags and sticks, instead of a paper and pen, and they did their homework at night and slept during the day in order to avoid being seen by prison guards. If caught with a grammar book or dictionary, prisoners are punished by being treated as dogs and put into cells where police dogs are usually kept. They have to kneel down like a dog and bark to the prison warden when their names are called. They are forced to crawl for nearly 300 meters every morning for at least one month. They must eat their rice and fish paste meals off the floor with their mouths. They are not allowed to shower or change any item of clothing when kept in the dog cells. There are 43 prisons and hundreds of quarry camps spread across the country. Insein Prison is the biggest. It is notorious for torture, the spread HIV/AIDS and the male child sex trade. It has been estimated that there is only one 100-bed hospital for more than 10,000 prisoners and male child prisoners are bought and sold for nonpolitical prisoners’ sexual pleasure. Prisoners are used as human minesweepers on the front lines to clear fields and act as porters for soldiers. The unpaid labor of both political and non-political prisoners is being used to support the army’s modernization projects. Thousands of prisoners are being sent to quarry camps to mine and chip stone. These 91 quarry camps supply stones for the construction of military tun-
nels and for the maintenance of railway tracks. Many of the bridges, barracks, strategic bunkers and hotels in Myanmar have been built wholly or in part with forced prison labor. The prison authorities and policemen are making money from the prisoners. They are cash cows. Some of the regime’s tycoons have enjoyed luxurious lives off of prisoners’ labor. In many modern countries, prisons are called correctional facilities where convicts are reeducated in their civic duties. However, prisons in Myanmar act as a marketplace for heroin, and a breeding ground for HIV/AIDS and sex industry for pedophiles. It’s a dining room of hell for political prisoners and a profitable and booming business for wardens and policemen. According to the research unit of the Assistance Association for Political Prisoners in Burma, 148 people died in the interrogation camps and prisons between 1988 and 2010, and there were 2,209 political prisoners, including monks, nuns, students, professionals, labor activists and politicians at the beginning of 2011. In addition, dozens of Myanmar’s own Nelson Mandelas have spent more than two decades on the floors of 8-square foot cells. Tragically, many have passed half of their lives in solitary confinement. The health of the famous student leader Min Ko Naing, who was sentenced to 65 years imprisonment, is deteriorating and he suffers from high blood pressure. These circumstances are just the tip of the iceberg in Myanmar. None of these atrocious human rights violations can be wiped out without the people’s participation in the decision making process. One might hope that the new regime turns over a new leaf, takes a step back from inhuman behavior and stops committing crimes against humanity. In the meantime, the policymakers of ASEAN and other nations in the region need to think twice about supporting the regime’s bid for the ASEAN chairmanship in 2014. We must make this a civilized century; countries need to respect the universal values of human rights. It is our moral responsibility to speak out against crimes against humanity in Myanmar and it is the right time to invoke change.
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Analysis
3 Expats in Korea Fight for Freedom Over the course of a week in early July, Groove magazine met and interviewed three individuals based in Korea involved in the struggle for democracy and human rights in Myanmar. Nay Tun Naing, is the chairperson of the National League for Democracy (Liberated Area) Korea Branch. John Smith Thang is the executive director of the Chin Democracy and Human Rights Network. Tom Rainey-Smith is youth representative for the Asia Pacific Youth Network’s Burma Youth Campaign Team. Aug. 8 is the anniversary of the 1988 uprising. The opinions expressed here are not necessarily those of Groove Korea. To comment, e-mail opinion@groovekorea.com – Ed.
By Barry Welsh
Illustration by Matt Ferguson (inkonpaper.org.uk)
Nay Tun Naing came to Korea 17 years ago. He left Myanmar, formerly known as Burma, after being involved in the popular protests now known as the 8888 Uprising on Aug. 8, 1988. As a former student leader he had already been jailed for three months and was scared his activities would lead to a second arrest. Upon graduating in 1993, he raised his fears with his father. Many of his friends had already been jailed. Some would eventually spend 15 years in prison. If arrested again, he would most likely share their fate. His father suggested going abroad, as many had done, to India, Thailand, the U.S. or Europe. However, Nay Tun Naing was only interested in one place, South Korea.
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Analysis
“I wanted to come to Korea and continue the struggle for Burmese democracy and to study how Korea changed into a democratic society. Korea and Burma are very similar. Both had been colonized. Both had military dictatorships. Neither country had effective opposition parties. Both countries had movements for democracy and economic development,” he said in an interview. So in 1993, Nay Tun Naing moved to Korea and has been here ever since. For the first several years, life in Korea was difficult. “I spent the years between 1993 and 2000 working for survival and looking for Burmese friends who want to work for democracy and human rights in Burma.” The Korean branch of the National League for Democracy (Liberated Area), or NLD (LA), was officially set up in May 1999. Their headquarters are a ramshackle affair. It consists of a small conference room and an even smaller office 10 minutes from Bucheon subway station. On the walls are photos of the uprisings in 1988 and 2007 showing bloodied protestors and two large pictures of Aung San Suu Kyi. The main NLD (LA) headquarters are on the Thai-Myanmar border, but there are eight branches: Korea, Japan, the United States, Norway, Canada, England, Malaysia and Australia. The organization exists in these places as a result of the student leaders who fled Myanmar fearing for their lives during the junta’s crackdown. Many of the NLD (LA) branches are headed by ex-NLD leaders. The suffix indicates that they operate in freer countries than that which they fled. Nay Tun Naing says their mission in Korea is to “support the democratic movement in Burma, lobby the Korean government and create awareness in Korean society. And it is also to make links with the international community.” To raise awareness, the NLD (LA) began by organizing regular press conferences and demonstrations in front of the Myanmar embassy. These demonstrations have been going on every second Sunday since 1999. In 2007, they started the Free Burma campaign, another protest action in front of the embassy. But for these demonstrations, they invite Korean civic organizations to attend and add their voices to the protest. When asked about his view on Korea’s political relationship with Myanmar, Nay Tun Naing’s answer is cautious and slightly disheartened: “Of the last four Korean heads of government, two have been very helpful and understanding of the Burmese democracy movement, but the current administration supports trade with Burma.” Indeed, Korea
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Thang was granted refugee status in 2008, and in 2009 he went back to university and finished his master’s degree. He is now studying for a PH.d in global affairs and international politics. is the fourth largest investor in Myanmar behind China, India and Thailand. Nay Tun Naing praises Aung San Suu Kyi’s achievements since her release from house arrest last year. “She has asked for a review of the undemocratic 2008 constitution, demanded the release of political prisoners, reformed the NLD, met the NLD youth, requested a role for the youth and ethnic groups and made requests to the UN.” However, whilst these actions are discussed in the rest of the world because of her renown on the international stage, the generals largely ignore her requests. Despite the generals’ indifference, Nay Tun Naing remains positive. As I prepare to leave, he tells me, “the Junta will change in three or four years, because of Aung San Suu Kyi and because of the youth network. The people want economic and social change. It is a patience game. We need to work together. 2011 is very different from 2007. The most important things now are for the political prisoners to be released, the army to stop fighting with ethnic groups and for a meaningful dialogue between the junta, Aung San Suu Kyi, the ethnic groups and the youth groups.” Nay Tun Naing has been scared to go back to his own country for almost 20 years. As a last question, I ask how he feels being in Korea. “The Korean government signed the International Refugee Convention in 1991. After that, they receive refugee applications. I applied for refugee status in 2001 and in 2003 was granted it by the Korean government. We (Burmese refugees in Korea) can accept this is important for us. We need to live and survive in Korea. Political refuges can live in Korea forever. But I have never dreamed of applying for citizenship. “My daily dream is to go back to Burma. The sooner there is change in Burma, the sooner we can go back home.”
John Smith Thang I meet John Smith Thang at his church,
where he worships and teaches a bible study class. After the service is finished, he tells me about his life in Myanmar and as a refugee in India, Thailand and now in Korea. Thang is ethnic Chin, one of several ethnicities that call Myanmar home. In 1988, he was a high school student embroiled in the popular uprising. “Many high school students joined. There was no religious or human rights freedom. It was a common reason.” In the ensuing years, he kept studying and agitating. He tells me he has been doing both constantly since 1988. He would eventually go to the delta region near Rangoon to attend university. In 1998, he was distributing a pro democracy magazine to the exiles living in the border towns of the Southern Chin state. Tensions were high in the border regions and he became increasingly worried that military intelligence would find out about his pro-democracy activities. In 1998, he fled the country, crossing the border into India. He was 20 years old. Thang left his parents and siblings behind, and has not seen them since. His father died in 2008. He could only have one brief conversation with him before that. There were many Burmese and Chin refugees in India. There, Thang studied computer science because, “it was a popular subject and we needed to develop technology and communication in Burma.” In the end he was there for several years. In 2006, he was invited by a professor to teach media and democracy to undergraduates at the All Ethnic International Open University in Chiangmai, based on the Thai-Burma border. Around the same time he began studying for a master’s degree in human rights. Thang was invited and came to Korea in September 2007 to attend the Gwangju Asia Human Rights Folk School’s annual forum. While attending the forum, what later came to be called the “Saffron revolution”
broke out in Myanmar. The protests were so named because of the color of the monks robes who led the uprising. Many of those involved, as well as external observers who saw the footage recorded by citizen journalists, were hopeful that this latest uprising would instigate significant change. Thang, who still had many contacts inside the country and was informed of the unfolding events, was less optimistic. “I didn’t think it would immediately change anything, but I hoped it would affect or pressure the military somehow,” said Thang. “The military is only afraid of the international community. They are not afraid of their own people or the NLD party. They don’t care. They are ready to attack them. To kill them all. Even if there are thousands protesting, they don’t care. They will attack them all and kill them. They are only afraid of international intervention.” There was a military crackdown and the protests were suppressed. However, Thang had more immediate problems. He had to find way to stay in Korea. Thang was granted refugee status in 2008, and in 2009 he went back to university and finished his master’s degree. He is now studying for a Ph. D. in global affairs and international politics. His view of the current political situation in Myanmar since the new constitution was instituted in 2008, the release of Aung San Suu Kyi and the election in 2010 is highly critical. “It is still a military-backed government,” said Thang. “The Union Solidarity and Development Party won the election. They are a military-run party. There was no transparency. There were no observers from the international community. How can we say this is democracy? There should at least be a regional observer or an international observer. Much corruption was reported in the election. It is purely a namesake democracy. It has nothing to do with freedom. Aung San Suu Kyi and the NLD are popular, but she has no chance. She is not allowed to have a chance. Anyway, she cannot do everything by herself.” When I ask Thang what the future holds for Myanmar, he is despondent, cynical even. “The military will remain. The corrupt namesake democracy will remain for a decade, unless the international political climate changes. Or the ethnic armed forces are strong. Then there will be change, but no other way,” he said. “I don’t believe the NLD or any other group will bring change. There will only be change through the international community or
though an ethnic uprising. We already gave 20 years to the NLD - 20 years for nothing … It is too late to stand by Aung San Suu Kyi. Our hope is now in the hands of the ethnic groups or the international community. “The ethnic movement makes no concessions to the military, whereas some in the NLD agree with military policy. And the NLD is not an arms group. So the military doesn’t care at all. The military are only afraid of guns. They don’t care about Aung San Suu Kyi’s non-violence method. After 20 years we already know this. The NLD has been in a leading role, but they failed. We need to think about the next leading role.”
Tom Rainey-Smith The final person I interview is Tom RaineySmith, a youth representative for the Burma Youth Campaign Team of Asia Pacific Youth Network (APYN). He has been involved with the APYN since its inception in Hong Kong in 2008. Rainey-Smith describes the APYN as a youth-led network. “The APYN is essentially an informal network of over 10,000 youths in the region.” Since that first meeting in Hong Kong, the network has blossomed. They have campaigned on a range of human rights issues including “Demand Dignity,” “Abolish the Death Penalty,” “Justice for Survivors of Sexual Slavery,” “MDGs” and for young people who have been subject to human rights violations in the region. One of the network’s current campaigns is on Myanmar, led by the Burma Youth Campaign Team. It is called the 3 Freedoms campaign and seeks to promote awareness freedom of speech, peaceful assembly and association are violated by the government of Myanmar. As well as spreading awareness, the campaign aims to influence the foreign ministers of ASEAN nations to push Myanmar to respect the 3 Freedoms. To support the campaign, they hope to arrange documentary screenings across the region. Earlier this year, the documentary “This Prison Where I live” was shown at Jogye Temple In Insadong, Seoul. The film concerns the imprisonment of Zarganar, a popular comedian and folk hero, jailed for speaking out against the juntas' anti-humanitarian practices. He is serving a 59-year prison sentence. The APYN Burma Youth Campaign Team is made up of over 10 young people from Bangladesh, India, Malaysia, South Korea, Thailand and other countries. Members contribute in a range of ways, from writing articles about Myanmar for the APYN website, organizing film screenings, designing and devel-
Rainey-Smith said the Burma Youth Campaign Team is excited about an educational workshop they are designing. “It will include a board game like snakes and ladders in which players will take on different roles such as junta leaders or political prisoners in different scenarios.” oping an educational workshop, promoting the 3 Freedoms Facebook application and blog widget, as well as translating material into the various languages used within the region. Team members are currently organizing actions around Aug. 8 to help mark the anniversary of the pro-democracy movement of 1988. Rainey-Smith said the Burma Youth Campaign Team is excited about an educational workshop they are designing. “It will include a board game like snakes and ladders in which players will take on different roles such as junta leaders or political prisoners in different scenarios.” This project seems emblematic of the APYN mission - connecting young people in the region who want to work together to campaign for human rights change. They intend to make the board game available for download from their website. Rainey-Smith is an advocate of the power of young people to affect change. When I spoke to Nay Tun Naing, he expressed optimism that Myanmar would see real change in three to four years. When I spoke with John Smith Thang, he could only hope it would happen in 10 or 20 years.
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Analysis
Keeping Strangers’ Fingers Off Your Baby By Roy Early
BUSAN — One fine Sunday afternoon when my daughter was a few months old, I found myself wandering through the electronics department of Emart. Fascinated by the singing of a 10-yearold girl, I paused to listen. She sang in nearly perfect tune with Kenny Rogers, the greatest singer-songwriter of the 1980s. Listening to that girl sing in perfect harmony, I occasionally batted away the hand of a curious ajumma, eager to touch the milky white skin of my child.
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By the third time the girl belted out the chorus “... daytime friends and night lovers, hoping no one else discovers ...” I thought how I would ever explain those lyrics to my daughter when she reached a similar age. Then I made motions to another hovering ajumma, indicating that, yes, my daughter’s eyes are closed and she is indeed sleeping. She took my pantomime to mean that she should touch her leg instead of her cheek. Before my wife gave birth to our daughter, we knew that foreign babies were not common in Busan. With our daily reading of the Korea Herald, we discovered that babies themselves used to be much more common in Korea. For the past 50 years, South Korea’s birthrate has been steadily declining. In 1960 the average Korean woman gave birth to about six babies. The rate has fallen so low that statistics from the last couple of years show Korean women can expect to birth just over one baby each on average in their lives. With so few babies, it gives the grandmothers and grandfathers, or halmonies and halabodgies, plenty of pent up attention to lavish on my daughter. From the day she was born, she received no less than seven touches from strangers during even the shortest of subway journeys. While standing on the train with her strapped into one of those daddy backpacks on the front carriers (called Ergo, for those in the market - worth every pretty penny) halmonies would literally come to me and stick their hand right into her face and touch her cheek. Should I swat the elderly woman’s hand away, she would slyly move to another portion of my daughter’s skin, however minimally exposed it might be. My cries of “aneyo” or “opsyo” pretty much went ignored. Never mind dad. “Stupid foreigner, does he know that I am a grandmother?” one woman snapped back.
My cries of “aneyo” or “opsyo” pretty much went ignored. Never mind dad. “Stupid foreigner, does he know that I am a grandmother?” one woman snapped back.
I still believe that in adjumma circles, bragging at the spa about touching a foreign baby trumps any other story shared in the scrubbing circle. It made perfect sense then, that once my daughter started speaking a bit, her favorite word while riding the subway was “no.” When that failed to stop the touching, she switched to uttering her desires in Korean. Surprisingly, that worked quite well. That is, until it became cute with those that saw her regularly or for any journey that lasted more than 10 minutes. Just about the time that I decided to start touching the adjumma’s face every time one touched my daughter, a new phenomenon began. People started giving my daughter candy and chocolate. Into her tiny little hand they placed perfectly wrapped, perfectly sweet, perfectly sized for choking, candy. She only had half a tooth. What business they thought she might conduct with candy, I do not know. At the end of a roundtrip from Guseodong to Haeundae Beach, my wife and I might hold a dozen pieces of candy between us. Koreans can be incredibly kind and loving. Whether it be by offering seats on a train, telling her she is beautiful, or trying to help change her diaper, they do try and to make her feel welcome. One of the groovier ways the elderly use to express their love for this little “round eye” and “big nose” child - their words, not mine - is by giving her money. This happens much less often than the touching or candy giving. However, it always seems much more genuine and selfless. Money is healthier for her than the other two, as well. Except for those first few times when she tried to eat it. Now 2 years old, she still gets touched, but now her hands work well enough to occasionally give a hair pull or smack in return. When anyone invades her personal space, she utters something in Korean to them. This often causes them to retract and laugh. My Korean skills are still minimal and mostly fatherly-daughter protection oriented, but I am pretty sure she says “Lay off the fish, I’m not just a cute foreigner, but vegetarian, too.” The opinions expressed here do not necessarily represent those of Groove Korea. To comment, e-mail opinion@groovekorea.com. - Ed.
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Arts & Culture Aug. 2011
the moonshiners
The Rise of Kimchibilly
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By Frederick J. Mayer
ockabilly took root in South Korea at the turn of this century, but came into fruition during the last part of the previous decade. Whereas in the West, punk descended from rockabilly, in Korea rockabilly developed out of the punk scene.
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rock tigers
| photo by brian keathley
The turnaround might be explained by what the saxophone player for Korean rockabilly, now dubbed Kimchibilly, Band Oh! Brothers (and, yes, there are actually brothers in the group) Lee Seong-bae explained to Groove Korea. "Rockabilly made it out to the rest of the world during the 1950's. Well, Korea was in a war at the time having no access to the rest of the world musically," he said. What is rockabilly? The origin dates back to the early 50’s and was based within the southern region of the United States. The word "rockabilly" is a portmanteau of rock (from rock & roll) and hillbilly, the latter a reference to country music or "hillbilly music" (traditionally, a hillbilly is a very poor Southern person living in that region's mountains). Originally, the label was intended as an insult to the performers of said music. While there isn't a set rockabilly sound, just as jazz has numerous styles and motifs, it is basically made from a simple three-cord change. If one location is to be credited as the birthplace of Kimchibilly, it is the renowned punk music venue Drug located in the Hongdae area (the club has since changed owners and location, though still in Hongdae, and it is now known as DGBD). The pioneers of the Korean rockabilly revival movement, the Rock Tigers (formed in 2001), received their big break when the famous resident band Crying Nut’s members had to fulfill their required military service. The Tigers filled the vacant spot. Originally, the Rock Tigers were mainly a punk group. However, as the group's guitarist/songwriter Tiger told Groove Korea, "We had traveled over to Japan and while there, became exposed to the rockabilly sound. We already had elements of it in our music. We just decided to become more fully rockabilly in sound and look."
Later on, Crying Nut keyboardist Master Jokquick (Kim In-soo) would, at times, play with the Tigers. Not all of the Kimchibilly bands received their first major rockabilly influence via Japan. Take the Sunday's Losers for example. According to this Busan-based group's founder/lead vocalist Kim Tae-hoon, "I first encountered the music (rockabilly) listening to the radio and albums. I was so taken by the feeling and power of the music; I translated lyrics and soon after changed my punk band into a rockabilly one." Sunday's Loser differs from most other fellow Kimchibilly performers, as their lyrics are full of sarcastic commentary concerning the political-social situa-
The term Kimchibilly originated from Canadian fans of the Rock Tigers in 2008, according to the band’s vocalist/songwriter Velvet Geena. tion in Korea (a stance not unknown in some rockabilly songs). The term Kimchibilly originated from Canadian fans of the Rock Tigers in 2008, according to the band’s vocalist/songwriter Velvet Geena. That same year the Rock Tigers released their EP "Taste the Kimchibilly" (the term's first public print exposure) and, more importantly, "Kimchibilly Night" was launched at DGBD. The Kimchibilly Night was a Rock Tigers' initiative, as Tiger stated, "We were attending this rock festival and felt it would be a good idea to create one of our own ... we really felt comfortable at that festival and that inspired us." The event became a permanent fixture on the Korean alternative music scene. As of July, there had been 21 such events.
A typical Kimchibilly Night doesn't always just present Korean rockabilly bands. It also hosts Japanese groups of the same ilk, such as Conny, a Japanese music icon female singer, who is considered the "Queen of Japanese Rockabilly." She has performed worldwide with such luminaries as Brian Seltzer and Wanda Jackson. Conny, in turn, supports Kimchibilly acts in Japan. One notable Kimchibilly act in particular blossomed from its Kimchibilly Night appearance. The Moonshiners, whose 50's red suits and American Western bow ties fantastically bring to life the heyday of rockabilly. "It doesn't surprise me that Korean rockabilly grew out of the punk scene here. It's about the same attitude, energy and freedom releasing music. Except in 'Kimchibilly', there's something excitingly different," said Moonshiners' front man/guitarist Cha Sueng-woo, formerly of another Club Drug punk band alumni, No Brain, told Groove Korea. "What attracts us to this kind of music is the feeling it gives one, the energy, excitement, fun ... Kimchibilly is the music that comes from inside us," said Velvet Geena. The best description lies in the Rock Tigers' lyrics from their song "Kimchibilly" (and other Korean rockabilly folk concurred), “We're takin you down that nasty dirty lane.../You got the rhythm so feel the beat/ Let's make it hot, dance all night.../ You always know that this is Kimchibilly.” Kimchibilly has risen and its distinct flavor is spreading through Asia and America. In Jackson, Tennessee, there is the International Rockabilly Hall Of Fame. They have no entrees from Asia. Perhaps, after you taste some fine Kimchibilly music, you'll nominate a Korean rockabilly band. They are accepting nominations at rock@rockabillyhall.org.
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Arts & Culture
Must-Visit Music Venues
Aug. 2011
Jeonju Rock Scene By Christina Murphy
Radio Star
The Pure Music of ATLAT
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Rocking Out with Orange Planet
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he stage Jung Soo-yoon, the lofty lead singer of the Korean rock band Orange Planet, is self-described as “a giant orange floating around the universe” looking like Liam Gallagher and dancing like Elvis. Back in the days of Wonkwang University, the band’s five members - Cho Joo-hyun (guitar), Jeon Han-sol (bass), Park Je-hyun (drums), Lee Jae-hyoung (guitar) and Jung Soo-yoon (vocals) - met and began playing some jazz and metal covers for nothing more than the sake of playing together. With a love of The Beatles, Oasis and most British rock, it wasn’t long before rock and roll took over. Their first album, Welcome! was produced a year ago and includes originals such as “Let’s Dance” and “Can’t Say Anything.” If the lead singer’s on-stage demeanor wasn’t enough of a hint, listening to this album shows that this band are as influenced by Oasis, as Oasis were by The Beatles. Definitely a refreshing addition to the music scene. In concert, they put on a good show, with
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all the bravado needed to keep the audience engaged right up until the last song of their set. And even though they bravely include covers of Oasis’s “Go Let it Out,” their charisma can often charm the snobbiest of Oasis’ fans from immediate rejection. So if The Beatles were bigger than Jesus, Oasis were bigger than the Beatles and Orange Planet are already the size of a giant planet, who knows what the future holds? “In the summer, we are planning to record two new tracks. It’s gonna be a lot of work, but we are hoping to rock around Korea, if not the whole world,” said guitarist Cho. For more information, look the band up on their Cyworld or Facebook pages.
lot of 19 year olds want to start a band, but few actually do, especially in school-obsessed Korea. Ad of those that do, very few make it to their third album.
Lee Mi-soon said she is happy with what she has achieved with her band ATLAT. In 2006 the petit singer, armed with her acoustic guitar, joined guitarist Charles “Chul-soo” Lee and formed Soonsoo (순수). Soonsoo (the “soon” from Mi-soon and the “soo” from Chul-soo), meaning pure, written in Hangeul separately ㅅㅜㄴㅅㅜ, became ATLAT. Clever. “I want to say that we are seeking the purity in music,” the duo explains. During the recording of their first album, “ 설레다” (Heart Flutter) in 2007, Charles and Mi-soon worked with bass guitarist, Leem Ji-sun and drummer, Lee Chan-young, both session musicians who became members of the band. “Usually bands form before they start recording, but ATLAT was a little different,” said Charles. The band site British act Porcupine Tree as a source of their musical influence, but unsurprisingly other influences and inspirations came from the likes of Eric Clapton, Queen and Pink Floyd. Lead singer Mi-soon looks like any other 20-something, but on stage she is full of surprises. Her voice is strong and she is capable of filling the rather large shoes of Eddie Mercury when belting out the band’s favorite cover song, “I Want to Break Free.” And she is equally comfortable performing the band’s vocally challenging original songs such as “Remembrance” from their second album, Hope You Can Make It, and “Fade Away,” a single for their upcoming third album. They are individually talented and each musician carries their own. They fit well together, producing songs that impress both musically-minded audiences and the casual concert goer. The band have just completed their national tour, “Made in Jeonju” alongside other great Jeonju bands such as Humans. Their third album is due to be released in autumn. “We try to show our true feelings through music, but there is not a particularly special message. We just enjoy it and hope that everything will be great,” said Charles. For more information, look for the group's Cyworld, Facebook or Myspace pages.
A New World of Music with the Dillytangs
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ack in March 2010, when dapper drummer Kim In-soo and flamehaired singer Jung Byoung-sun got together with the idea of forming a band, they were in no rush to be great. They just wanted to play. The later arrival of young-and-funky bass player Kim Dong-joo and guitarist Jo Jae-mook resulted in the birth of the Dillytangs. Since then, they have become part of the musical fixture in Jeonju’s most expat-friendly music venue, Radio Star. Given a slew of underwhelming K-Pop and manufactured groups, a Korean band of Jeonju brothers like this is literally music to our ears. Out on the streets of Jeonju, life can be strange and not always fun for those who have shunned the typical Korean cookie-cutter lifestyle. But on stage, they are clearly having a good time and doing what they were born to do.
Performing great covers such as The Raconteurs “Steady as She Goes” always gets the crowd dancing, along with their original songs, most crowd-pleasing seeming to be “Downlight Lie,” which gets the feet tapping. With both music and style being influenced by rock royalty Iggy Pop and The Doors, along with their own psychedelic spin and notes from the wealth of garage music around, a Dillytangs performance will always be a good performance. This year, after a short hiatus, they have plans to produce their first album and are hoping to continue performing at concerts and festivals. They are currently working on new songs, but have vowed to take their time. “As we travel along our own road making our own music, what we create will be a product of our journey, rather than music to set us on our way,” said Byoung-sun. For more information and upcoming gigs, look the Dillytangs on Facebook and Cyworld.
Located in the Junghwasandong area of the city, Radio Star is as popular among expats as it is among musicians and locals. Don’t be put off by nicknames such as “the dungeon” – there are worse places to be held captive. The atmosphere inside makes it a top choice for many Jeonjuites. The musician-come-owner, Park In-yeol, is friendly and welcoming to even the strangest of strangers. A lot happens here. If there is not already a concert or band practice going on, he will pull down the big screen and show a film or sporting event. Drinks are not too expensive and more often than not there is some kind of new and unusual cocktail to try. Tell the taxi driver “Junghwasandong ECC Yongah hagwon.” Radio Star is on the opposite side of the street under the 7-eleven.
Deepin A small, smokey “dive” in the downtown district, Deepin is Jeonju’s original expat bar and has been helping expats unwind for years. Recently under new management, the bar hosts small concerts and acoustic performances, in addition to poker nights, screens sporting events and keeps you drunk-and-out until the wee hours. Tell the taxi driver “Wedding gori.” Deepin is on a small side street off the main stretch of wedding shops.
Deepinto Opened by the original Deepin owners, Dee and Min, Deepinto is the posh man’s Deepin. About a 5-minute walk or 10-minute stumble away, Deepinto is bigger and cleaner. It is a quieter venue compared to Deepin and Radio Star, yet it does host some concerts (even the Rock Tigers last year), trivia nights and wine tastings thanks to their inhouse sommelier, Euna. They also serve some expat-friendly food, which includes a cheap and edible brunch, fish and chips and poutine. Tell the taxi driver “Preemos yonghwakwan app.” Deepinto is opposite the old Primus cinema above Debawing chicken restaurant.
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Arts & Culture Aug. 2011
On the Road with Ian Gott: A Contemporary Gypsy
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By Laine Ritter | photos by ryan noel
hat defines us? Is it our profession that tells the world what we do or our passion that drives people? The two don’t always intersect.
When they diverge, would we choose the safe harbor of a steady-paying job or will we toss our lot into uncertain waters to pursue an obsession? Ian Gott, a trained chef and real estate contractor from Colorado Springs, United States, faced that choice and decided to give up everything he knew to follow his heart. His pursuit began a few years ago with a playful comment at his father’s dinner table. When their dinner guest from South Korea mentioned her dread of the long flight home alone, Gott made a joke that he would go with her and keep her company. He did and was changed by the experience. The month he spent traveling Korea opened his mind, and re-awakened his passion for the arts. Having grown-up in a small town, he had a limited view on life and resigned himself to a monotonous lifestyle revolving around work, home and a music hobby. The time he spent travelling catapulted his life forward and altered him forever. His exposure to a different culture gave him another perspective on things and turned his music hobby into a burning obsession with the arts that refused to die when challenged by life’s circumstance. According to Gott, “Korea has so much cultural energy around the arts,” he can’t help but be nourished by it. He was in several bands back in Colorado but nothing eventu-
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ated. The up and down of a performer made him weary - left drained and exhausted from the effort of struggling with “the music thing” as an artist back home. “I was getting tired,” Gott said. “I was depressed and lonely. My bands were in a constant cycle of building up and crashing down then building up and crashing down again. I grew tired of that progression. I still perform but I am trying to go into the production side, produce my own work and not rely so much on other people or band members and work on my own pace.” He paused a bit before adding, “Independent productions … that is my true calling.” He said that he could be the next Anthony Bourdain (an American chef and host of the Travel Channel show: “No Reservations”). But first Gott had to find his voice. To do so, he embarked on a global journey that had him living as a bohemian traveler moving from place to place with everything he owned on his back. His modern gypsy lifestyle began in Korea two months ago. While staying with friends and playing gigs around the city of Seoul, he continues to chronicle his experiences and capture it on film. He even hosted a showing of his first travel documentary at Hongdae in late June. Much to Gott’s surprise, 20 people showed up specifically to watch his video. The city of Seoul has re-invigorated Gott. He proceeds to the next phase of his journey energized and confident that he has found himself. All he needs now is to find the outlet for his creative passion. He travels next to Vietnam and Cambodia, then Turkey and beyond. A video record of his travel journeys can be found on YouTube in a series-in-progress entitled “Gott Seoul.”
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Arts & Culture Aug. 2011
A Challenge to Dominance of Seoul-based Electro/ Pop/Rock Bands
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article & Photo By Jisu Kim
his August, the music promotion company SUPER COLOR SUPER plans to shake up any preconceptions surrounding the indie scene in Korea with the Gwangju Round Robin and Jeffrey Lewis’s tour of the peninsula. Both promise to challenge the dominance of Seoul-based, electro/pop/rock bands during recent years. SCS is bringing in something new just in time for summer’s stickiest month—encouraging all interested parties to step out of their comfort zone, and forego the usual weekend night in Hongdae in favor of fresh stomping grounds or some bizarrely brilliant anti-folk music. The Gwangju Round Robin continues SCS’s Round Robin concert series: During each event, several bands play round-robin style one after the other, all in the same shared space. Bands are set up along the perimeter of the room while the crowd stands in the middle of the venue. There’s effectively no real back row or front row, no headliner or opening act, but instead a seamless flow of
song after song. The bands time their performances so that each plays one track right after the previous band until they reach the end of the show. A Korean line-up is expected to offer the best in the area, such as bands like Harp, and a few out-of-town favorites like Wagwak. This particular concert will mark SCS’s first big entrance into the smaller Korean city of Gwangju, symbolizing the company’s longtime commitment to building a network of creative talent across the country. By connecting the music scene in Gwangju with that of more metropolitan areas like Seoul and Busan, SCS encourages art lovers and music fans to look beyond their usual fare. It’s good to see Seoul-based promoters and bands paying attention to musicians outside their area and showing enthusiasm in mutual collaboration, which is something that doesn’t happen enough. Especially when thinking of the international acts that usually are called upon to travel to Korea, bringing in Jeffrey Lewis is definitely a progressive step forward. Lewis is a New York City-based anti-folk musician who’s made a name for himself with his
winding lyrical content and eclectic sound. It’ll be interesting to observe the audiences’ reception to his take on the anti-folk genre, which could be described as simultaneously whimsical and neurotic; generally something that’s not too common in this nation. His tour is planned to begin in Busan and end in Seoul, where there will be a small gallery set up near the venue featuring his comic-book-style artwork. Lewis is a pretty big name in the United States right now, and considering the lack of subversive irony or camp in Korean indie, it should definitely be a stimulating experience to watch him play. July marked SCS’s two-year anniversary as indie music/art promoters. Their events are usually a synergy of a performance and a party, bringing out the best in both and making sure a good time is had by all who attend. These upcoming shows certainly look compelling: And especially for those who feel dragged down by the heat, the Gwangju Round Robin and the Jeffrey Lewis tour should be encouraging pick-me-ups. Visit www.supercolorsuper.com for information, ticket sales, and more about upcoming shows.
Artist Nate Rood’s Maddening Compulsion to Create By Elizabeth Recharte
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Arts & Culture Aug. 2011
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ome artists need to create. Their art is not done as a hobby or for diversion, instead it’s a maddening compulsion. Jeonju’s Nate Rood is this kind of artist.
“An image just sort of curses you, you see something and you can’t get it out of your head, it haunts you and you can’t lay it to rest until you conceptualize it,” Rood said. A bit possessed and twisted, Nate’s work speaks loudly of this crazed preoccupation with creation. It is a hallucinatory mesh of fluidity and color. Candid, bizarre and sometimes looking a bit like Picasso had a love child with Andy Warhol, his paintings stand out as much as he does amid a typically conservative Jeonju background. Rood describes his style as “Frankenstein pop art,” an appropriate label for anything created by the man who, as he sits down to talk about art and his upcoming solo exhibition at the Jeonju City Gallery in Gaeksa on Aug. 20, looks every bit the sleep-deprived, eccentric, mad scientist.
Why do you think more people don’t own art? Most people don’t really know about art. They don’t study it. It’s like most people have favorite bands, but most people don’t have favorite artists. It’s whatever is in style at the moment. Prints of Warhol and Ikea Gustav Klimt posters, he seems to be the current flavor of the month. Before him, it was Monet, but no one knows who Francisco Goya is anymore.
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You have a pop art style, how do you feel about it given what you just said? (Laughter) Well, yeah, the “Hite can” really has become my Campbell soup can hasn’t it? I would like to work with it in that repetitive way, kind of rip off Warhol. I definitely drink more Hite than Warhol ate soup.
Why do you call you style Frankenstein pop art? I’m combining images in order to create an idea. My favorite textures and colors all sewn together. I’m 100 percent aware that is what I’m doing. Some people are subconscious about it. (My art) is like a moving scrapbook in my mind of images.
What are some of the characteristics of your style? I like to move things around. People who ask me to draw them are often disappointed that I don’t do it so they are (stereotypically) attractive. In the time it takes to capture someone, their face changes. It’s like I’m trying to catch two or three expressions at once. That’s also why my art is so warped.
So you mentioned Goya, is he your favorite artist? I mean, he painted what he found interesting. He explored new avenues. I find out more about the world though art. I want to do the same.
What has been your best received body of work in here Korea?
The first show I did at Jeonju University, it was a display of people, buildings and objects. I think most people weren’t aware of what anyone’s work would look like and a lot of them were surprised with what they saw.
So tell me about your upcoming show at the Jeonju City Gallery I’ve taken a huge side step this year. I’ve started studying art more intensely. There will be a lot of different things there. I’ve started to use a lot more color. I think this exhibition more than any other shows my personality more, my sense of humor. It’s the broadest spectrum of work I’ve ever produced. Some of the pictures are produced to make myself laugh at people’s reactions to them. Most people in Jeonju don’t know how to take it when there is an art show. About half of them are tongue-in-cheek about it and the other half are really serious. I’m going to chop up the show so no one can get into a comfort zone. So that can’t just pigeonhole me as the guy who does the Hite cans or the buildings.
Are you nervous about it? Yes, nervous about people’s reactions to it. I think what I do is childish. I mean, before you learn to write, you draw. I ask my girlfriend all the time if she thinks it’s weird I draw pictures. People stop looking at the world around them; I’m lucky to still have an imagination. To find out more information about Nate’s upcoming solo show, Facebook search “Nate Rood solo exhibition” or e-mail him at atnateroodinkorea@googlemail.com.
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Arts & Culture Aug. 2011
Play in a Day (on a Saturday, actually) By Liam Mitchinson | photos by michele farley
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magine creating a brand new work of theater in 12 hours. Imagine starting with three actors, a director, a writer and a blank piece of paper at 9 a.m. and performing an original show at 8 p.m. the same day. Sound challenging? For some, the prospect of being locked in a theater through a Saturday working to come up with something brand new to show an audience can be both an exhilarating and liberating experience. Probationary Theatre Company's Play in a Day concept is exactly that. “I want to create an inclusive event that anyone who is interested in creating new theater can be involved in,” said artistic director Desiree Munro. “I want to take more advantage of the real artistic talent that the Korean expat community has to offer in a low time commitment format. So many talented expats are working ridiculous hours at hagwon and I didn't want them to miss out on the chance to do some theatre, nor did I want the audience to miss out on seeing what these individuals have to offer.”
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Play in a Day will take place on Aug. 6 at Probationary Theater's venue, The White Box Theatre in Seoul. Actors, writers and directors will be required at the space for a 9 a.m. start and the curtain will rise for up to four new shows at 8 p.m. This will be the third Play in a Day to take this year. “It's an intense but incredible day,” said Juliet Mathes, an actor at the last two events. “The 12 hours go by so quickly, and because you're locked in a theatre with these people, rehearsing together, eating, talking, bonding together, everyone becomes really close in such a short amount of time.” Audiences, too, have been taken aback
by the quality of the. “The most common feedback we seem to get on these events is people saying in a surprised tone ‘Wow. That was actually really good,’” said Munro. “I think people assume because the show is created in 12 hours, the quality will be very low, but everyone who participates is so committed and passionate about creating a great show, it really is a surprisingly well polished piece of theatre.” All levels of theater experience are welcome. If you wish to be involved in one of the creative performance teams, you can register your interest online. To book tickets (10,000 won), e-mail probationarytheatre@gmail.com. More information on PTC and the White Box Theatre can be found at www.probationarytheatre.com.
Arts & Culture Aug. 2011
Haptic Pursuits of Artistic Masterpieces
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By Daniel Joseph Vorderstrasse
any can appreciate a finished work of art, but fewer realize the amount of dedication and passion artists contribute. For one particular group of artists in Seoul, the process of creating fine art is more important than accolades. Four artists, equally driven by their passion of the developmental phase of their respective crafts, have teamed up to form a group dedicated to producing handmade furniture, fine arts, and sculptures. Their mission is to “fashion long-lasting, timeless and cutting-edge pieces, and offer established and emerging artists a platform to enrich their creative process,” one said. The group, Taomina, has begun tackling their creative endeavors with the opening of a project studio in Seoul, seeking to raise awareness of quality works made by hand, in comparison to machine generated, massmarketed, second-tier objects. Founder Sven Schelwach completed his first finished piece when he was 15 years of age. Unsatisfied by cheap, mass-marketed objects, he sought to create a quality piece by hand. Focusing on the developmental process with minimalistic influences, Schelwach creates pieces durable in stature, ones that are materialistically pure, and possessing personal innovative twists. “When I work, I am searching for this per-
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fect moment, when time stands still and nothing matters but the harmony of the now and here,” he said. Craig MackIntosh brings talents to the group as a tradesman of art realms. Born in Portland, Oregon, he developed his craft with the written word, illustration, carpentry, design, sculpture, and is heavily influenced by architecture. Seeking to find harmony and agreement between his centerpiece and its surroundings is his mission. When he identifies a piece being as developed as it needs to be he says, "I'm saddened that the problem solving is over. It's like a relationship coming to an end. I'm bored to tears by coveting a 'finished' piece. I have to rebound quickly with the next one." Sculptor Jason C. Mehl brings interesting insight to art as he seeks to emulate the effects of erosion and natural degradation in his works. While finding his beginnings with ceramics, he has graduated to work with various metals. An environmental science degree led him to accent focused emphasis on textures and natural feeling by using science as a large influence on his art. His patterns are influenced by landscapes in nature and views taken from varied landscapes of the American West. “Each piece is a personal exploration of light, texture, and form.” While a resident of Seoul, he still showcases works back in Texas. Yang Ju-im (Jamie) is a Seoulite, and was a graphic designer before venturing into finer arts. Game design was not satisfying,
The collective will feature their works at Gallery Golmok from Aug. 19 to Sept. 4. “Tactophilia” will introduce the audience to the residue of their creative process. The human hand is a conduit in creating art. so a change of scenery with New York City’s street art fairs and further globetrotting gave her ambitions to create artistic pieces. Using Styrofoam as a canvas, the pieces communicate her emotions. “They are pieces of memories and they are an explosion of emotions,” Yang said. In essence they are a means to prove her abundant emotions are still alive. Her puzzle-like paintings show individual messages, but showcase a collective significance when the puzzle is viewed as a whole. The collective will feature their works at Gallery Golmok from Aug. 19 to Sept. 4. “Tactophilia” will introduce the audience to the residue of their creative process. . Haptic perception and intuition are fundamental in the process. Taomina invites you to participate in an experience of the senses. For more information on the artists, visit the website at www.taomina.com. To reach Gallery Golmok, take Noksapyeong station (Line 6), Exit 3 towards Itaewon. Cross the street heading towards the main drag and veer left down the alley next to Suji’s Restaurant and Kwon’s Engraving, and proceed to the yellow and pink buildings.
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Arts & Culture Aug. 2011
at the box office By Dean Crawford
korean DVD corner
By Daniel Joseph Vorderstrasse
The Conclusion to a Superhero Summer
Good Morning President (굿모닝 프레지던트)
I Saw the Devil (악마를 보았다)
This film outlines moral and political decisions confronted by three successive presidents, taking viewers on a roller coaster of presidential narratives. First, President Kim Jeong-ho (Lee Soon-jae) wins a lottery and must decide if he’ll keep the money for himself or reinvest the winnings in Korea’s infrastructure as he had promised. Months later, his protégé Cha Ji-wook (Jang Dong-gun) assumes office as the attractive “Korean JFK.” President Cha must use diplomatic savvy to meander troublesome waters as North Korea’s missile testing provokes Japan’s maritime fleet into a “defensive,” albeit aggressive, response. Facing increasing U.S. pressure, but feeling sympathetic towards Korea’s communist neighbor, he must seek a solution that satisfies all parties. Finally, female President Han Kyeong-ja (Ko Doo-sim) gains the presidency under a doubting opposition. Hardly a year into her term, her troublesome husband cannot cope with his “First Husband” pressures and creates a scandal through a past property purchase. Unable to handle his diplomatic duties, he divorces the president, allowing her to carry out her presidential duties without distraction. The events force her to balance the nation’s interest against Korea’s emphasis on family support and structure. While awkward in nature, the storyline has certain feel-good aspects and viewers are able to form a relationship with each individual leader. A steady flow of events counteracts the meandering of the film, making it less unbearable. Supporting characters, notably the president’s chef, compliment the public figures nicely and insert voices of reason. Presenting a side of presidents the public is very much unfamiliar with, and accentuating their human characteristics is what makes this film a success and enjoyable. Well worth a viewing if the opportunity presents itself.
Apparently all the psychopaths in Korea congregate in a confined area in the countryside. One blistery cold evening, a young female is brutally murdered by a sexual sadist while waiting for roadside assistance. Unbeknownst to the killer, she’s a retired police chief’s daughter and a secret agent’s fiancée. Granted time off from work to cope with his loss, Kim Soo-hyeon (Lee Byeong-heon) promises bloody vengeance because he regrets not being with her when she needed him most. A determined Soo-hyeon focuses on the main suspects and eliminates them through merciless beatings, but the abductions continue until one suspect remains. Jang Kyeong-cheol (Choi Min-sik) evolves as the murderous perpetrator. But seeking justice at the hands of the judicial system will not suffice. Soo-hyeon uses government training to locate the culprit, Kyeong-cheol, to inform him of the ensuing punishment he will inflict. But Kyeong-cheol continues to ravish women, young and old, while Soo-hyeon is on his tail. As the pursuit continues, Soo-hyeon realizes that to catch a monster you have to become one yourself. This incredibly gory, extremely graphic movie contains more energy and pace than most viewers can handle. Fifty minutes of the 140 minute film is used to set the stage for the epic battle, which leaves 90 minutes for Kyeong-cheol’s living nightmare to play out. The film is filled with adrenaline-induced scenes and vigorous action sequences, which when combined, portrays a gruesome nature, there is no question as to the intended audience. Soo-hyeon is on a mission to rid the world of evil and punish culprits one limb at a time, until he has quenched his thirst for retribution. This is by no means a date movie. But for any actionseeking, blood-thirsty, adrenaline junky, there may not be a better option.
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August 11 Cowboys & Aliens Daniel Craig, Harrison Ford
August 11 The Smurfs Neil Patrick Harris, Sofia Vergara
August 18 Larry Crowne Tom Hanks, Julia Roberts
How I love the summer months. It's either too hot or too wet, but there's always something to see at the cinema. Summer 2011 has seen the release of not only “Transformers: Dark of the Moon” along with “Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows Part 2,” but also big budget superhero films such as “Thor,” “X-Men: First Class” and “Green Lantern.” However, the huge summer releases aren't stopping there, as late July will see the release of the last superhero film of the summer, and arguably the most important, as Marvel releases “Captain America: The First Avenger.” Or as it will be known in Korea, simply "The First Avenger." Captain America is the final Marvel film before the release of 2012’s “The Avengers,” and it tells us the story of the scrawny Steve Rogers, played by Chris Evans, who is selected to take part in the U.S. Army’s Super Soldier Program. Rogers is then “enhanced to the peak of human perfection by an experimental serum,” thus allowing him to aid the United States war efforts against Hitler and his weapons advisor Johann Schmidt, a.k.a. Red Skull, played by the always watchable Hugo Weaving. Now in any normal year, you could pretty much guarantee that Captain America would be a monster success making a ton of money whether the film is any good or not (see “Transformers 3”). However, this isn't a normal year. Due to the three other superhero films having already been released, then throw in “Pirates of the Caribbean: On Stranger Tides” and “The Hangover Part II,” you have what Jon Favreau has called a “box-office bloodbath.” Summer 2011 has had such a glut of big budget "must see" films that audiences have already paid to see that some observers are predicting the poor scheduling of “Captain America” may hurt the film August 25 Drive Angry 3D Nicolas Cage, Amber Heard
July 28 Captain America: The First Avenger Chris Evans, Tommy Lee Jones
financially and may well start the decline in popularity of the superhero genre in general. “Captain America” has the disadvantage of being one of only two summer films that doesn’t have the luxury of being a sequel, which could definitely hinder its worldwide box office in what has generally been a mixed summer for the genre so far. Thor was the first big film of the summer to be released and it was rewarded both critically and commercially, earning $66 million on its opening weekend, whilst sitting on a respectable 78 percent on Rotten Tomatoes. I personally loved “X-Men: First Class,” and that took in $55 million. But then came “Green Lantern.” Again, figures dropped with only $53 million, and has been panned by critics and fans alike. As much as I wanted to like the film, it just took itself too seriously and for a superhero whose main power comes from his imagination, sadly the film seemed to display none. I think the failure of Green Lantern could well work in Captain America’s favor, as people will either be skeptical of spending money on something they know could be a potential failure along the lines of “Spiderman 3,” or go all out to see the final blockbuster of the season. I was lucky enough August 25 The Hangover Part II Bradley Cooper, Ed Helms
to work on a few of the action sequences on the film and I can tell you they were big and there was no expense spared, which I think will translate brilliantly to the screen. Not to mention the trailers look impressive and I think that the update of the suit looks great. For me personally, Chris Evans was the best thing in both Fantastic Four movies, but whether he can pull off the role as the iconic Captain America remains to be seen. One thing that is for certain though, is that regardless of the commercial and critical success of ”Captain America,” with sequels for him and “Thor” having already been confirmed and “The Avengers” being released next year, the superhero train shows no signs of slowing down.
Beyond the superhero flick, more Apes It's not only superhero franchises getting releases this summer, as August sees the “Planet of the Apes” series get another addition in the shape of “Rise of the Planet of the Apes.” This prequel to the original 1968 film aims to show us how the apes first came into power. After several name changes, a trailer was finally released. And once I had seen this trailer, my first thought was simply, "Why?" Once I realized the answer to this question was "money!" my second thought was "will it be any good?" Unlike most people, I didn't despise Tim Burton's “Planet of the Apes” and quite enjoyed seeing a modern take on the story. As much as I loved the original “Planet of the Apes” film, the effects have dated heavily so I wondered what a modern day take on the film would look like. As it turns out, not that great. So after Tim Burton's film, the general consensus seemed to be that leaving the Apes franchise well alone was the way to go. But the Hollywood money machine never stops churning, and in this film, James Franco plays Will Rodman. A scientist whose genetic experiments lead to the August 25 Don't Be Afraid Of The Dark Katie Holmes, Guy Pearce
Beware:
Worst Movie of the Summer If you are in the mood for a comedy you are in luck, because another English Language film finally getting its Korean release in August is 2005’s “A Sound of Thunder” (or “Time Code” as it will be called here) which is possibly one of the worst big budget films you may ever see. Set in 2055, Ed Burns stars as a scientist in charge of “Time safari,” which offers rich big game hunters short time travels to kill off dinosaurs just before their natural death. When one of these hunters strays off his set path, he alters events of the present as they face “time waves,” which have catastrophic repercussions. Think “The Butterfly Effect” meets “Back to the Future,” but with really bad acting (yes, even worse than Ashton Kutcher) and really bad special effects. Which is a shame, as the premise of the film, which was taken from a short story by Ray Bradbury, is a really interesting one, just poorly executed. Only watch if you are a real fan of sci-fi and time travel, or if it’s still raining and you don’t want to be outside.
development of higher intelligence in apes. I really like Franco, but I just can't see him pulling off a serious role, especially that of a genetic scientist who has an IQ the same as Steven Hawking. However, I am yet to see his portrayal of tragic poet Hart Crane in “The Broken Tower,” so I will definitely reserve judgment until I see the film. Plus some reservations I had about the film disappeared with the release of the second international trailer, and I highly recommend you catch it as it focuses more on the human aspect of our primate counterparts, likening lead ape Caesar, played by Andy Serkis, to Frankenstein’s monster. The film could well be a cautionary tale foreshadowing the problems with science and technology and trying to play God. Who would have thought all this from James Franco, eh? September 1 Colombiana Zoe Saldana, Callum Blue
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Arts & Culture Aug. 2011
book reviews
By Todd Sharp
Inside Wikileaks: My Time with Julian Assange at the World’s Most Dangerous Website By Daniel Domscheit-Berg 304 pp Crown
Wikileaks: Inside Julian Assange’s War on Secrecy By David Leigh, Luke Harding 352 pp PublicAffairs
Mapping Out the Wikileaks Phenomenon Julian Assange and the site he founded have retreated from the headlines as other events, particularly those involving a now defunct tabloid in England,, claim a greater share of attention. He’ll probably be back, though, as his legal case and that of Bradley Manning proceed, but even barring that his impact on journalism and notions of government secrecy would already be assured. With little more than his programming skills and hunger to reveal the secrets of the powerful, Assange has used Wikileaks to make news: No newspaper, magazine or website has revealed more unsettling information in a year’s time. Perhaps more importantly, no other source of news has done a better job of showing where the interests of world leaders, and the press that covers them, really lie. During the Bush years, the United States was regarded as an anomaly, treated by liberals at home and abroad as an embarrassment to the Western world for craving war, hoarding power and stifling dissent. Many saluted Barack Obama’s rise to the presidency as an end to that era, but that was before Assange’s site started revealing the secrets behind the wars, as well as diplomats’ private appraisals of the countries they resided in. Suddenly, America’s new administration labeled him a terrorist. This reactionism was not limited to the Yanks: The prime minister of his native Australia threatened to cancel his passport, and a former advisor to Canada’s on labeled him a terrorist. This reactionism was not limited to the Yanks: The prime minister said he should be assassinated. And the press, at least in the U.S., rushed to defend their government, and label the site that had scooped them something less than journalism; what, precisely, it’s hard to say, but there were a lot of mutterings about Wikileaks having (shudder) an agenda. Over time, though, even Assange’s faithful
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followers have come to admit that there’s a less-heroic side to him; one that at best displays poor judgment in dealing with the opposite sex, and at worst makes him a rapist, at least under Swedish law. Those seeking to learn more about the man, his strengths and flaws, and, yes, his agenda, have seen a wealth of reading material to choose from in recent months. “Inside Wikileaks: My Time with Julian Assange at the World’s Most Dangerous Website,” arrived courtesy of his estranged comrade Daniel Domscheit-Berg. “Wikileaks: Inside Julian Assange’s War on Secrecy” is the work of David Leigh and Luke Harding of The Guardian, one of the media partners that helped the rogue site reach a wider audience. The one word, aside from “Wikileaks,” that occurs in both titles is “inside,” advertising the unseen story behind the attention-getting leaks. Domscheit-Berg’s book in particular has much to offer here, as his briskly paced account of meeting Assange, helping in the distribution of the material, and subsequent falling out with the Wikileaks founder benefits from the sights he witnessed and took part in. Even those inclined to believe Assange will be excited by Domscheit-Berg’s tales: They include how they took on the Church of Scientology and rose to prominence among the young, the technologically inclined, and those distrustful of governments. In this respect, the fact that Domscheit-Berg is not a writer by trade, but still has an intriguing story to tell, actually works to his advantage: His plain-spoken account of the events makes Inside Wikileaks no chore to read. But like so many non-writers telling their own stories, Domscheit-Berg can’t help but make the object of his scorn wholly onedimensional: Other than a few sops about Assange’s computer prowess and dedication
to his work, Domscheit-Berg’s appraisal of him is entirely negative. For all we know, he has not embellished at all, and Assange may indeed be an arrogant megalomaniac with horrendous manners and personal hygiene. After all manner of insufferable behavior, though, Domscheit-Berg will have to forgive readers if they find it hard to believe that he was only “beginning” to find Assange irritating by pg. 112. More of Assange’s flaws are documented in Harding and Leigh’s book. They include outlandish behavior (dressing up like a hunchbacked woman), an unreasonable style of negotiation, and male chauvinism (which they explain, if not justify, as part of his upbringing) that may have resulted in him committing a crime in Sweden. Wikileaks lacks the imbalance that mars Domscheit-Berg’s book, crediting Assange for many breakthroughs, telling the story of Bradley Manning, and dissecting the more absurd claims to have come out of the site’s critics, who have failed to prove that Wikileaks: a) cost innocent lives in Iraq or Afghanistan, or b) has disrupted the ability of the United States to perform diplomacy. The thoroughness of their book, however, does not always necessarily translate into better reading, though. Wikileaks had a busy 2010, one which is already changing the way news is gathered; Al-Jazeera has already added a function for anonymous leakers, and the New York Times has considered doing the same. DomscheitBerg has launched OpenLeaks, hoping to improve upon Assange’s product. Whether any of these can match his impact remains to be seen, but they are signs that rules of journalism are changing and, as one message from the Wikileaks Twitter feed said, a “new world” has arrived. Whatever that new world looks like, hopefully these two books will serve as documents of how the change started.
3rd Tattoo Virus Show
Sept. 3-4 at JBK Hall in Samsung-dong
T
attoo Virus, the first Korean tattoo convention in Korea when it was founded three years ago, is hosted by tattooist Ernan, and the Virus Company. Renowned tattoo artists from Korea, Japan, Brazil, and the U.S. will appear at the two-day celebration for a variety of drawing performances and tattooing exhibitions. You will also experience street culture represented by graffiti artwork, street brands and handmade leather crafts. Rock shows will be held on Saturday, including No.1 Korean and Plan Out. A collaboration of electronic music, including DJ D-Pop, Beatbox Eunjun, GT-DJ Peter and Popping Hyunjun will be held on Sunday. Tattoo Girl Contest will decide on a model for the new calendar from Tattoo Virus, and various tattoo contests will be held to showcase the talents and dynamics of tattoo artists from around the world. There will be raffle drawings with prizes, including Adidas products and MLB hats & anti-aging clothes.
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GROOVe with seoulvibes
This is a column dedicated to electronic music in Korea. Our aim is to give Groove Korea readers: interviews and updates on what is happening on the peninsula. Feel free to contact the links below for information on clubs, DJs, or events! www.samurai.fm/seoulvibes | seoulvibes@gmail.com | www.myspace.com/seoulvibes What was your introduction to music?
c i s u M s d n s u A o r d g r o e Goon the und oil
I was maybe nine years old when I first heard “It takes 2” by Rob Bass and DJ EZ Rock. It blew my mind that the emcee said so many things in one song. I remember being worried. I didn't think hip hop could make it many years before artists would run out of things to say.
Who has influenced your music the most?
Growing up listening to college radio was where I was first exposed to mixing songs. Putting my radio in strange places to catch weak frequency broadcasts from Toronto, I heard DJ X play breaks from classic funk and soul tracks, then he would mix them with contemporary hip hop joints. This was my first "face melt" experience.
What is your definition of DJ?
I think the definition has changed over the years, these days the potential for sound manipulation with digital devices is incredible. I would say anyone that makes a performance of playing recorded music can be considered a "DJ." The performance aspect is key, and the equipment a DJ chooses to use lends to their stage presence. The job of a DJ however has never changed. DJs put the crowd on to good music, not vice versa. J-Live coined the phrase "real DJs don't take requests." People go see a DJ perform because they trust in their knowledge of good music. If you're up there taking tips from the dance floor, you fall out of the category that for me defines a DJ.
How did you get the handle ''Oilcan"?
I got it from my pops. My middle name is Boyd, and my dad used to call me Oilcan as a kid. Dennis “Oil Can” Boyd was an eccentric pitcher who played for the Red Sox and Expos. It is a colloquialism for a can of beer. I guess Dennis and I have a common affinity for the devil’s brew.
Which artist would you love to see play in Korea?
There are too many to count. Sadly, so many artists are not booked and don't stop to play in Seoul even though they’re on tour in Asia. Hip hop, as presented to Koreans, is missing a key element commonly referred to as the "underground." I'd just call it an indie scene. Popular commercial rap music is everywhere, but progressive hip hop is hard to find. I flipped my lid when Samiyam played Seoul, and I'd love to see Flying Lotus or any other artists from the Brainfeeder camp — they are an awesome and progressive record label. Other artists like Knxledge, or cats from the Wedidit collective have been on heavy rotation by my yard. I've been going through a lot of Cosmo Baker of late, he's a DJ that has truly inspired me.
How would you define your present style?
Music has changed so much in the past 10 years, and consequently my repertoire has expanded a great deal. I couldn't say I play any one style at all. I like my music the same as my movies: dark. Generally, I'm a happy go lucky guy, but happy ass music does nothing for me. The music I play inevitably leans toward the dark and funky.
Who are your favorite local DJs?
360 Sounds Crew are hands down my favorite collective of DJs in Seoul. Not confined to any one style, they do it up with flavor and usually on wax, which is rare to see. Every time I see them play I think of all the wax I have in storage abroad. I got to shout out to the Ground Scratch Crew, they also represent the scene well.
What is easier DJing or promoting?
In the words of Eugene Blake, "DJing is a piece of piss." It is like riding a bike. I don't get nearly as nervous DJing as I do waiting for people to file into my parties. I think staying original is the easiest way
ASIA
to promote events. If you make your event stand out by filling a gap in the scene and you offer people something they miss, then parties practically promote themselves.
How would you define hip hop?
The four elements: DJing, emceeing, break dancing, and graffiti writing. When you think about it, all four elements are counter-expressions of the status quo. Using your hand on a record, rapping instead of singing, spinning on your head or writing on walls, they all violate our notions of conformity. At its best, I think hip hop celebrates the spirit of the silenced majority, who use it to vocalize their opposition to the institutional oppression in our everyday lives. At its worst it forwards our oppressors agenda.
Which do you prefers CDJs or turntables?
To my own detriment, I've always tried to avoid CDJs. I use Serato Scratch Live, but I have come to realize that many of the advantages of using Serato have been available with CDJs for ages. Clubs in Korea almost never have turntables, their DJ booths are rarely big enough for me to fit my decks and if I would stop being such a puritan I would probably have more places to play. Nonetheless, the feel of the records connects me to the crowd and that is essential for me.
What are negatives and positives in the scene?
The stand out positive thing is that 24-7 the sheer number of people looking to have a good time rivals any world metropolis. There are parties every night, not to say that the music at these parties is always good but DJs and promoters have access to a massive market. The biggest problem I find out there is that the audience has no connection to the music they dance to. There are keen and savvy Koreans and a good number of foreigners who know what they like, but typically when it comes to anything unranked or uncharted clubbers don’t have a clue nor could they care less. Additionally, Korea produces technically skilled musicians and performers, but there is a creative void that independent artists typically occupy in other major cities that remains unseen and unheard. Clubs and promoters are partially at fault because they think they know what sells and they don't take chances with various genres of music.
What is your ideal night of clubbing on the peninsula?
I really don't go clubbing often. It seems the venues that allow me to play are also places I frequent because the owners know what good music is and they hire DJs who have good taste. In Itaewon, Berlin and Club 52 are two of my go-to spots. You are more likely to catch me at Bar Carmen or Craftworks than at any club.
Do you have any advice for aspiring DJs and promoters?
DJs, practice your craft. Sure, being a good selector is the first step in DJing, but there is so much more one can do than simply select tracks. Turtablism, blending, effects, and sharpening your timing makes the experience much more rich for you, the DJ, and for your listening audience. Promoters, be original. Imitation is the highest form of flattery, unless you're a promoter — then it’s just theft.
What can we expect from GoodAssMusic and Oilcan?
Personally, I plan to focus on music production and visual arts. As for the company, we are looking forward to collaborating with other promotion companies this year, in order to create more interesting and original events. Whether it is a fundraiser for charity, a funk/rock mashup show, or even a slow dance party with straight 80s soft rock joints — we will be at the forefront of the alternative scene here in Seoul. By the way, I'm a great slow dancer.
In an industry filled with greed and vanity, it is rare to see a DJ that is so intact. It is even more uncommon to see one throw events without a hidden agenda. Oilcan Boyd and the company that he represents, GoodAssMusic, remains one of the few vanguards of the underground. Their events usually entail a modest entry fee and feature affordable drink specials for their patrons. Since they expect everyone to be on the dance floor, the only VIP table that truly matters to them is the one that hosts their artist’s equipment. Their agenda is point blank — no stress, no bad vibes, and quality music.
Destinations Aug. 2011
Indonesians with limited funds, Eddie and his mates are not privy to the current surf luxuries adorning street corners from Sunset Beach to Times Square. There are no modern-era surf shops with neatly organized racks of glistening Al Merricks. There are no Rip Curl pro shops with overly friendly teenagers folding trendy clothes to the cranking soundtrack of surf porn pumping from flat screens that surround the store and entrance the throngs of customers. The residents of Kuta ride anything that floats their way. In this case, a 6’2" shortboard held together with a dozen tubes of Sun Cure. Eddie and passenger speed in front of us
We park our scooters on the side of a small brick house. Lina, the matriarch of the house, helps us roll them into a tight formation and then helps remove the boards from the makeshift racks on the side of each scooter. We carry the boards to the back of the house, walking past the colorfully painted brick and concrete houses of Lina’s neighbors, and wait for our boat. Local families sit on their porches and prepare vegetables for the day, smoking and staring at our morning SPF ritual. A group of men are hacking the sides off an old outrigger. One man chopping with a blunt machete while three others silently watch. Life in the
cal” about this break. I have not surfed since moving to Korea over a year ago, but I lived in Santa Cruz, Calif. before the move, a town that embodies the modern day surf culture. A place where you are immediately sized up based on the board strapped to the roof of your car when you pull up to check the swell, and even the type of car the board is strapped to for that matter, and the wrong move in the water might get you a few lumps on the head. A place where dropping in on someone is a sin that may get you blacklisted and will get you run out of the water. There is open taunting and little room for error, and occasionally a fist-
with the comfortable agility that comes with knowing a pilgrimage. Knowing every turn in the road and that jagged pothole just over the crest of the next hill. We arrive at the boat launch after passing a half dozen Indonesians guarding the tollgate to this small fishing village east of Kuta bay. This ragtag security force is sitting on a shaded platform, smoking and patiently waiting for the morning parade of scooters. One man carefully operates the crooked metal pole hanging in the road that blocks our bikes from passing. Eddie and the man jabber back and forth in Bahasa, and the guard eventually lifts the pole, allowing us passage exempt from the 1,000 rupiah toll. True to his name, Eddie Murphy has worked some local charm.
small village is peaceful slow motion. A wooden outrigger pulls up with one of Eddie’s mates working the prop. We quickly load the boards. The early equatorial sun is starting to burn and we are off to Gerupuk for our first surf in Bali. The boat pulls up and joins the half-dozen boats already anchored. It is early, but there are already about fifteen people surfing the crumbly sand bar break. Eddie grabs his board and flashes his trademark smile. He jumps into the water and looks back at us standing on the boat as he paddles towards the break, “See you later, my pretties!” he sings into the blue air. We join Eddie in the line up of mostly Indonesian locals, but there is nothing “lo-
fight breaks out between grown men wearing four millimeters of form-fitting neoprene and sitting on floating pieces of plastic. In old surf movies, you see three, four, five, even 10 people on gigantic longboards, like floating banquet tables, and incredibly short swim trunks, all surfing one wave. You see an entire truckload of surfers riding a single wave together, but that has all changed. Today, you see one lonely soldier barreling down the face of a monster with a little potato chip under his feet. The modern day surfing etiquette is not without warrant. The popularity of the sport has exploded over the last three decades, and the once counter-culture communion of a small tribe of waterman has become
Eddie Murphy is Stoked!
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By Roger Gribbins
e are in Kuta Bay on the island of Lombok, off the southeast coast of Bali. Our surf guide is a 20-year-old local who goes by the moniker Eddie Murphy.
His Gudang Garam-stained teeth pop brightly against his dark brown skin every time he flashes his disarming smile. His large head rests atop a thin frame. Eddie is dressed in the same fashion as all the young people we see in Kuta: in the flashy surf clothes that line the racks of surf shops, and, given the ubiquitous boom in board sport mystique, even Wal-Mart. He wears Billabong board shorts and Reef sandals, the ones with the bottle opener attached to the sole, a busy Quiksilver t-shirt, and oversize O’Neill sunglasses. The clothes have been dropped off by passing pros, company employees, and returning tourists, and despite living in shacks the entire village looks like it just stepped out of Surfer Magazine, outfitted in the hippest surf wear. The contrast is loud. Murphy lives and works at the Kuta Reef Surf Shop. He is in charge of renting boards and motorbikes and guiding tourists to the
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Quickly paddling into position, we let the first two peaks roll by, and the third one starts to jack up – building energy off the point. Eddie gives me the nod, “Fuck yeah mister – your wave, your wave!”
local surf spots. In the afternoon he fixes dings and waxes the rental boards for tomorrow’s dawn patrol. At night, he sleeps in a small room next to the ding repair station and behind the rack of shoddy rental boards. He sleeps atop a thin mat on a dirt floor surrounded by posters of Kelly Slater and Joel Parkinson and the late Andy Irons. In the darkness, he drifts into the universal haze of sleep and dreams through the pungent smells of drying ding-repair resin and fresh Sex Wax and his last Gudang Garam of the day. On our first morning in Kuta, Murphy leads the four of us to the boat launch. He is driving the scooter and his friend is riding on the back with a surfboard tucked under each arm. Shortboards that have been completely snapped in half. Buckled by a heavy barrel that caught a tourist on the head and split their five-dollar-a-day rental board clean across the middle. Eddie epoxied it back together. Sleeping through the night while his new board dried just a few feet away. Eddie softly snored while the warm night air catalyzed the tough links of the resin’s polymer structure. Boards are hard to come by out here. They are easy and cheap to rent, but as local
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Destinations Aug. 2011
a status symbol to be flaunted. Waves are crowded, and surfers are hungry for solitude and the chance to paddle until they are surfed out. At some of the more populated breaks in Santa Cruz, the etiquette of surfing is posted on carved wooden plaques as you enter the paddle-out spot: the surfer closest to the break has the right of way, do not drop in on a surfer who is riding a wave, and always paddle around the break – never through it. These rules scream of the common sense absurdity of a NO LITTERING sign, but in the current epidemic of surfing glamour a carved wooden totem simultaneously protects both the expert and the tyro. Here, in Eddie’s world, we quickly learn that the modern-day rules of surfing have been erased. Eddie and company belt out the chorus to pop songs in between sets, and they scream “fuck yeah!” every time someone catches a wave – regardless of who it is. They are taunting the tourists and their friends, and even themselves, in the most playful of ways. Two Aussies that join the lineup, their faces covered in a band of thick and sticky zinc oxide, are quickly identified as Nemo by the mischievous Indonesians (the Aussies don’t seem to enjoy the nickname); and Eddie and company are more than happy to share their waves – they even encourage it. I back off a wave that Eddie is gliding along, and when he paddles back out he shoots me a glare, “It’s okay man, drop in next time, we share the wave. Fuck yeah!” The vibe in the water is a refreshing contrast
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to the often silent, edgy mood of a crowded surf break, and Eddie and his surf mates are the ineffable definition of the raw emotion that screams through the veins of anyone who has ever caught a wave. The powerful addiction that forces you to paddle back out for one more even after you can’t feel your shoulders and your legs have turned to jelly. Eddie Murphy is stoked. The pure essence of it. He smiles and splashes water the entire time we are out there. He cheers everyone who catches a wave, even if they eat it on the take off. He yells at people to share his wave when they don’t drop in on him, and when the best set wave rolls through and everyone starts jockeying for position, Eddie flashes his trademark smile and spits, “Mister, you take it. Fuck yeah!” Eddie surfs every day, and it doesn’t matter who is with him in the lineup. There is no vibe to this spot. There is no heavy-handed localism ruling the pecking order. There are Indonesians happy for another day of surf, stoked on the power of the ocean, and a bunch of confused tourists who have lost the meaning of the word. On our last day in Kuta, the swell has changed direction and a storm is brewing from the south. The crumbly sandbar break is no longer working, and Eddy guides us out to a point break. A right hander that sets up near the rocky entryway to the small bay. The takeoff is shallow and steep, and we position ourselves just off the jagged, brown cliff that separates bay and open ocean. The wave is
heavier and faster than the sand bar, and my two-year hiatus from the water is arousing trepidation. I catch a few and the confidence builds, and that familiar feeling of wanting bigger and faster and heavier rushes back. Warm raindrops start falling and the sea and air and rain are all the same temperature and the sky is a beautiful swirl of gray and purple and Eddie is singing pop tunes while we wade in the turquoise bath. A choice set rolls in; we see it brewing from the entryway. Quickly paddling into position, we let the first two peaks roll by, and the third one starts to jack up – building energy off the point. Eddie gives me the nod, “Fuck yeah mister – your wave, your wave!” I paddle hard but it all feels wrong. My board is too big and I am taking off too deep and this is going to be too steep for the laws of physics to allow. I already see myself smacking the rocks below, and I hope there isn’t a bigger wave behind this one. The wave scoops and I pop up and jam the tail into the curl and force the board down the wave, barely making the take off – the stall at the top feels like slow motion. The face opens up and I am cruising along the best wave I have had in two years; the silence and the sharpness of the moment engulf me. When I pop out I see Eddie going mad in the water, slapping the blue stuff and hooting into the rainstorm. He is writhing and smiling and screaming at me and his face is inexplicable joy, and for a moment it is hard to tell who is more stoked.
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Destinations Aug. 2011
WIN PRIZES Macaque – Macaques know well that tourists carry treats in their backpacks. At Penang National Park in northwest Malaysia, they’ll raid your bag and show their little fangs if you try to stop them.
Pushy Primates A Tale of Malaysian Macaques
article & Photos by Colin Roohan
D
oing some research for my upcoming trip to Malaysia, I was intrigued when I read about Teluk Duyung, Malay for Monkey Beach. Being an avid nature lover, Monkey Beach quickly outranked all other sights on my list.
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After a little convincing I talked my wife into visiting Monkey Beach as well. We spent the first couple of days on Penang, an island off the northwest coast of the peninsula, weaving our way through the exotic, bustling streets of Georgetown. We took advantage of our first precipitation-free day and rode a bus out to Penang National Park, where Monkey Beach is located. We grabbed a map and started our two-hour seaside jungle trek. The trail ran parallel to the sea, providing scenic lookouts along the way. A little humid and quite rocky, my wife and I quickly realized that flip-flops were a poor choice of footwear. The hike was going pretty smoothly and the anticipation of reaching Monkey Beach was heightening. In our haste to make it to the beach we failed to notice that we hadn’t seen any other hikers. Not a great sign. We pressed on and just as the undulating trail headed deeper into the jungle we heard some abrupt shaking from a low-hanging tree. I am no wilderness savant but running from a wild animal seems counterintuitive, so we froze in our tracks as the unknown
form scurried closer. We were hoping to see a primate, but we were ill prepared for the cantankerous creature that emerged. There we stood face-to-face with a brown macaque. My wife and I sized up the monkey as it stared right back at us. As he crept toward me I tried to recall all the nature specials I had ever watched. Unfortunately I never saw anything about macaques. Should I try to make myself look bigger, like a male silverback gorilla? Or simply stay calm and move slowly? I chose the latter. With aplomb the monkey made his way behind me, climbing up my back to get to my bag. He had obviously done this before. I really didn’t care to get bitten by a wild monkey at this point (no rabies vaccination), so I cautiously unclipped my pack and slid it off my shoulders toward the ground. We weren’t too worried about the bag, but the passports, wallets, SLR cameras and iPod touch inside were precious possessions. As the macaque pulled the pack toward him we began to worry. I crouched down and reached for one of the straps only to be halt-
Penang National Park Boardwalk
The hike was going pretty smoothly and the anticipation of reaching Monkey Beach was heightening. In our haste to make it to the beach we failed to notice that we hadn’t seen any other hikers. Not a great sign. ed by a mouthful of long, yellow fangs and a hiss that still sends shivers down my back. The macaque unzipped my pack with expert technique and began exploring the bag’s contents. I made a second move to grab a strap and was again greeted by the intimidating teeth. I backed off. The macaque didn’t seem too interested in the cameras or passports, but the brown cover of the iPod and clear plastic baggie it was in must have made it look something like a sandwich. His eyebrows raised and in went the teeth. After he quickly discovered unpalatable plastic he tossed the iPod aside. I began wondering when he would end his raid and then realized I had an unfinished bag of raisins in one of the inner pockets. The macaque gave a final peek inside the pack and eyed the golden raisin wrapper. In the blink of an eye he grabbed the raisins and sprinted up a nearby tree to reap the rewards of his hard work. While we frantically stuffed our belongings back into my pack and sprinted off, the macaque sat overhead smacking and laughing.
Konglish & Pic of the Month submissions@groovekorea.com
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Food & Drink LATIN FOOD
On Latin Cuisine:
Spanish, Cuban, Mexican?
"Nacho is a name in Spain, not an appetizer."
Squid Ink
happens, and it’s been puzzling me for years. A tourist roams the by Paloma Julian streets of Barcelona wearing a mariachi’s sombrero. He thinks he has reached the height of Latinity. He’s actually just made an ass rying to compare Spanish and of himself. He’s wearing a Mexican hat in Latino cuisine is like trying to Europe; it’d be like wearing a cowboy hat in compare, well, tortilla and tortilla. London. Common language does not mean They’re just not the same (more on common culture. that later). The cuisines of the Spanish-speaking countries of the world have been influenced Let’s clear one thing up before we go any more by geography than anything else. When further: when I speak of Spanish cuisine, Europeans traveled to the Far East and the I’m referring to that of Spain, my home New World, they discovered ingredients that country. When I speak of Latino cuisine, were exotic and unfamiliar. Some they adI’m referring to that of all the other Spanish- opted; others they discarded. For example, speaking countries, mostly in North, Central cilantro is a major herb in Latino cuisine. In and South America. Spain, it’s almost nonexistent. Instead, we There are more than 20 Spanish-speaking stick with an Old World herb: parsley. countries on Earth, and all of them have Spaniards adopted corn, that quintestheir own characteristics. Being Latino is sential New World staple, as soon as it was more about syntax and language than it discovered. But we don’t eat it; our livestock is about race or culture. That’s no small does. commonality, but it isn’t enough to bind all Nacho is a name in Spain, not an appeLatino’s together into one distinct cultural tizer. group. And finally, back to tortilla. To Mexicans Let me paint you a picture. This really and most other North Americans, tortillas
T
are the corn or wheat-based flatbreads that form the foundation for burritos or flautas. In Spain, tortillas are potato and egg omelets – about as far from the Mexican version as you can get. For most of our histories, Spanish and Latino cuisines have been separate. It wasn’t until about 15 years ago that Spain began taking an interest in Latino cuisine. In my hometown, there still aren’t any Mexican or Cuban or Paraguayan restaurants. I first encountered Mexican food living in the States. I wanted to try the cuisine, but I didn’t want my first experience with it to be at the Taco Bell in town (I still believe in slow food – no offense). I nearly buckled, then I found Los Potrillos, a real Mexican place that exposed me to a new world of flavors. Our cuisines may be different, but we Latinos are proud of our differences. We have a huge variety of races, dances, ways of thinking, ways of speaking and ways of cooking. Our culture is wide and rich. Whether you’re more familiar with Spanish cuisine or Mexican, I invite you to explore it further. Go beyond tacos and sangria, rice, beans, paella. Discover mole, sancocho, mate, pisco, adobo, fabada, arepas, and all the other tasty and wonderful things the Spanish-speaking countries of the world have to offer.
What’s the Difference?
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Food & Drink LATIN FOOD
Robbie Nguyen, a Houston native, serves expats at the Fermentation Trailabration.
The bulgogi taco is one of Three Kings’ signature tacos. This one is topped with pico de gallo.
Heavy is the Hand that Holds the Spatula
J
Article & Photos by Josh Foreman
ohnny Yu is a taco king, and a king must look resplendent. Hence the tuxedo T-shirt. His friend Robbie Nguyen wears an easy white V-neck, but he is also a taco king. The third is off in South America, trying to learn the secrets of Latin cuisine, or so he says. Together they are the Three Kings, and they hold court in a small pink truck.
I spoke with Yu and Nguyen recently about their business, the Three Kings taco stand. Nguyen told me how Yu was the only ethnic Korean in a Latino fraternity in college in Texas. Yu says it was multicultural – there was a Pakistani in it, and a Jewish guy, too. The point is, he knows Mexican food. All three of the kings do to an extent – they all grew up in Houston. The Three Kings drive their truck to spots in Itaewon and Hongdae once or, if they’re ambitious, twice a week, usually on Saturday nights. If they sell out of food, it’s a good night. They’ve been at it for a little more than a year.
Expats line up for tacos at the Fermentation Trailabration in June.
Yu has a disdain for fake ingredients; he said he was disgusted once when he got nachos with fake cheese (“basically yellow water”) at a Seoul restaurant. They top their tacos with a fresh pico de gallo salsa. They tried making their own tortillas, but it was time-consuming and they always came out the wrong shape, so they buy them. They’re the only Mexican place in town with carnitas, they think. But what they cook is not true Mexican. It’s more similar to the food they ate back in Texas. “It’s pretty true to the Tex-Mex form,” Nguyen said. Yu, 28, and Nguyen, 26, have the manner of fraternity brothers, though they didn’t meet until they were both in Seoul. They joke and laugh a lot. Yu’s speech has the cadence of a surfer’s, and is peppered with “dude” and “dope.” He drives the truck, and lent the Korean influence to their operation (the bulgogi in their bulgogi taco is his mother’s recipe). “We’re some fun-loving dudes,” Nguyen said. Yu often keeps a bottle of sake in the truck when they’re working (ask him for a sip – he said he likes to share the love). Nguyen has a Vietnamese background. He grew up playing football in Houston, where his coach called him “Nugent” for years despite repeated attempts to teach him the correct pronunciation (it’s “w-in”). He plays for the Seoul Warriors football team, and also an ultimate Frisbee team and a basketball team. And he makes the pico de gallo. The third king, Phil Abowd, is a hipster, his friends say, one of those hipsters who would never admit to being one. He has Lebanese and Czech roots, but is basically just a white guy, they said. He’s been in South America traveling for the last five months. He’s coming back with some insight into the cuisine of that continent, supposedly. They came to Seoul to teach, and still do. Although they’d like to transition into being a brick-and-mortar operation eventually, their goal for now is to become “the go-to food truck for expats.” “We want to rule these streets,” Nguyen said. “With an iron fist,” Yu added. You can find the Three Kings truck in the Itaewon alley next to KFC and Naked, or in Hongdae, near the park and Club Cocoon. You can get more information about the Three Kings on twitter (twitter.com/3ktruck), facebook, or their website, www.3ktruck.com.
Their menu is as follows: 1. Slow-cooked pork carnitas 2. Chicken tacos with roasted chipotle crema and avocado 3. Bulgogi tacos 60 | www.GROOVEKOREA.com| august 2011
The Three Kings serve their tacos from a little pink truck they bought from a dealer in Incheon. “It was calling out to us,” Nguyen said.
Robbie Nguyen, 26, and Johnny Yu, 28, two of the three members of the Three Kings, have the easy nature of fraternity brothers, but they didn’t meet until they were both living and teaching in Seoul. august 2011| www.GROOVEKOREA.com| 61
Food & Drink LATIN FOOD
Restaurant Review:
Comedor
A
By Laine Ritter
cross from Wolfhound pub in Itaewon is a humble little restaurant exuding Latin American vibe. Comedor’s intimate setting entices: A wine rack filled with Argentinean and Chilean Wines sits at the front window; Soccer shirts and a Paraguayan Flag hang on the wall; A diminutive staircase adorned with plants and photos leads to a small balcony only 3 meters above the ground floor. The elements combine to give Comedor a warm and inviting atmosphere in which to eat some authentic home-style Paraguayan food.
The set menu was a primer in Latin American cuisine. The flavors were nuanced, subtle and unexpected. The skillful grouping of indigenous flavors on the plate awakened my palate. The set menu came with three empanadas (stuffed pastries, served with a side sauce of red chili with vinegar), chipa (traditional bread made of cheese and yucca root), and chipa guazu (a cheesy cornbread). The set menu left me craving more. I satisfied my appetite with an order of the Asadito (grilled beef) that came with fries and salad. The beef cooked to medium was juicy, tender and well-seasoned. The whole experience left me awe-struck at the deliciousness of authentic Paraguayan cuisine. Location: Itaewon, across the street from Wolfhound Pub Rating: HHH out of 4 Stars Price: W W 62 | www.GROOVEKOREA.com| august 2011
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Food & Drink LATIN FOOD
3 Latin Flavors for the Summer Grill
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ummertime means longer days and warm weather – just the right time to break out the grill and cook some protein. The Latin American grill holds a special place in my heart, having eaten loads of lechon (roast pig), carne asada (grilled beef) and churrascaria (Brazilian steak house) meat on my travels.
By Laine Ritter | photos by ryan noel At home, I like to grill my version of Plato Todos Carnes, reminiscent of my favorite Mexican restaurant in America. If you don’t have time to cook, no need to worry. There are some good restaurant options in Seoul. Let’s start with the grill. If you are cooking at home make sure it’s at a high enough temperature before putting the
Carne Asada A spicy grilled beef dish said to have originated in Mexico in 1977. Carne Asada often comes on a skewer or in strips and is sometimes served in a taco or burrito. Traditionalists use skirt steak to make it but you can use any cut, just slice it thinly before or after cooking. It is not necessary to marinate your meat but doing so will add more flavor to the dish. Common marinades used in Carne Asada are lime or lemon juice, garlic, onion, paprika and peppers (black or chili). I have included a Plato Todos Carnes grilling recipe for you to try at home.
meat on. Using a hot grill will allow the meat to sear, creating more flavor. Bacon or bacon-wrapped items grilled over an open flame will tend to flare up and might be easier to cook on an electric hotplate or George Foreman-style grill. Here are the basics on three of my favorite summertime Latin grill dishes:
Lechon The Lechon is a party food usually served during fiestas and big celebrations. Lechon literally means suckling pig, from “leche”, the Spanish word for milk. Traditionally, a lechon is made from a whole piglet still being fed its mother’s milk. The roasted pig cooked properly will have some wicked crispy skin that you won’t be able to resist. Go to Hyehwa-dong on a Sunday (and only Sunday) afternoon. On the street by the Catholic Church, Filipino vendors will sell you lechon and other types of barbeque (banana cues, chicken, pork blades, etc).
Churrascaria Churrascaria is Portuguese, meaning “house of barbeque.” Meat is served “rodizio” (in a cycle), with the customer continuously eating all kinds of sword-skewered meats until he or she is full. The first Churrascaria is said to have been established in the High Plains of Southern Brazil where the rich and fertile soil provided a perfect grazing land for raising livestock. For the Churrascaria experience, visit Mercado Bazilian Steak House in Gangnam (Take a taxi, it’s a long hike from the subway stop) or the Copacabana in Itaewon, behind Hamilton Hotel.
@groovekorea
Steak and Chicken Marinade
(Medium Spicy) • • • • • • • • •
1 1/2 Tablespoon Salt 1 teaspoon black pepper *1 teaspoon red chili pepper (or 2 teaspoon gochujang) 1 Tablespoon onion powder 1 Tablespoon garlic powder (or minced garlic) 1 teaspoon paprika 4 Tablespoon of lemon or lime juice (approx. 1 medium lemon) 3 Tablespoon of ginger ale (or Sprite/Chilsung Cider) 1 Tablespoon of olive oil
(*Hint: Don’t like the heat? Substitute 1 to 2 Tablespoon corn syrup instead for a sweeter marinade.) 1. Pound the steak with a mallet to flatten and tenderize meat. 2. Marinate the steak and chicken for 1 to 24 hours. Marinate the shrimp for 1-2 hours. (Health note: Store your marinated meat items in the refrigerator. Keep it chilled prior to grilling.) 3. Wrap the chicken and shrimp in bacon. Skewer the chicken and shrimp. (so bacon will stay on the meat while grilling. If you are using an electric grill that cooks both sides at once then there is no need for skewers.) 4. Grill meat and vegetables to taste. (Please take care if grilling bacon or bacon-wrapped items over an open flame as they will tend to flare.)
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twitter.com/groovekorea
Groove Korea (Magazine)
Plato Todos Carnes “a la Laine” (Serves 2-4 people) • • • • • • •
300 grams skirt steak 200 grams chicken tenderloins (boneless) 200 grams shrimp, peeled and deveined, marinate with salt, pepper and lemon 8-12 strips of bacon Several stalks of green onions Bell Peppers Mushrooms
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Food & Drink LATIN FOOD
Urbs & Spices by read urban
duce and smokiness from the grill. Luckily, I recently visited a tomato farm in Chuncheon and was able to pick several kilos of fresh grape and cherry tomatoes. Grilling the tomatoes provides some carmelization and charred flavor, which gives the sauce a nice intensity. If you don't have access to a grill, a simple broiler will work just as well. These flavors get balanced out with a splash of vinegar while the sauce is bound by olive oil and ground almonds. Once you finish blending the sauce, the onions only take a few minutes on the grill. I decided to grill the onions for a few minutes on each side, instead of blackening the stalks and removing the layer. The large green onions you find here (“pa”) can vary in size. I looked for the freshest I could find, which ended up being slightly smaller stalks. They cooked through quickly, so it is important to watch them on the grill, making sure they don't overcook and lose their moisture. This isn't a traditional Spanish dish, but I think it captures the essence of the Calcotada festival. It is a recipe that uses available ingredients at the peak of their season to celebrate the season. These grilled onions are a great appetizer for a summer barbecue. It is an excuse to gather around a grill, talk with your friends, and share in the summer bounty.
photos by elizabeth papile
Celebrating Summer with Grilled Green Onions
I
’ve never visited Spain, but it has been on my travel list for a long time. The closest I’ve come is a wedge of Manchego cheese and a bottle of Tempranillo. Spanish food holds that charm of good cheese, cured meats, and great wine. I'm afraid that I wouldn't leave if I ever visited. Spain is a long way from Seoul, but whenever I go to the local market and see the large stalks of green onions bundled together, soil still clinging to their roots, I am reminded of a travel program I once saw about Catalonia.
There is a festival in Catalonia where people gather around barbeques, grilling large spring onions and slathering the charred stalks in a smoky sauce of dried peppers, almonds and olive oil. The festival is called Calcotada, named after the unique onions grown there, calcots. They are larger than normal green onions, resembling leeks. People throw them on grills until they char, peel off the blackened skin and dip the cooked onion into romesco sauce. Romesco sauce is a smooth blend of several simple ingredients. The star of the show is the nyora pepper, a dried sweet pepper from Spain. The sauce has gained some popularity recently, probably due to the fact that it can be served with a range of food from shrimp to poultry and, in this case, vegetables. I wanted to try and recreate this dish using ingredients common in Korea. It’s difficult to find the nyora pepper, so recreating the exact flavor is difficult. I spent a few days trying to find ingredients that could be used to substitute the pepper, but decided to focus more on fresh pro66 | www.GROOVEKOREA.com| august 2011
Grilled Spring Onions with 'Romesco Sauce' 1 Bundle of Large Korean Green Onions (“Pa”) 2 cups Grape or Cherry Tomatoes 1 Red Pepper (Roasted, Peeled, and Seeded) ½ cup of Almonds 6 Tablespoons of Olive Oil ½ Tablespoon of Red Wine Vinegar Salt and Pepper Trim the ends of the green onions and brush the pale green stems with a tablespoon of olive oil. Set aside. Toss the tomatoes with a tablespoon of olive oil and season with salt and pepper. On a hot grill, or broiler, cook the tomatoes until they burst, about 3-4 minutes. Remove from the heat and place into a blender. Add the roasted red pepper, almonds, red wine vinegar and remaining olive oil. Blend until smooth. Season with salt and pepper to taste. While the grill is still hot, add the green onions and cook until they soften. The cooking time varies on the size, but generally 1-2 minutes a side. Pour the Romesco sauce into a serving dish with the grilled onions along side of it. Use the sauce as a dip, or pour over the warm onions.
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Restaurant & Bar Directory Bar Bliss Itaewon Exit 1 (Line 6) make the first right. It’s on the corner. www.picturetrail.com/barbliss. Price: 12,000-35,000 won. Contemporary cuisine and highend bar. Great cocktails and patio. Beer O’Clock Head to Exit 1 of Sinchon Station (Line 2) Go behind the Hyundai Department store towards the 7-11. Turn left on the third street up. 2nd floor. English Menu and staff. #:02-333-9733 www. beeroclock.ca. Prices: 8,00024,000 won. Canadian Sports Bar with great wings, burgers, donairs, and pizza. Big Rock Brewery Head out Gangnam Station Exit 7 and make the first right and head up the hill past the GS25. www. bigrockbeer.co.kr. Prices: 5,00015,000 won. Canadian Brewery with a great Sunday Brunch and good pub fare. Craftworks The nation’s only foreign-owned brewpub specializing in great steaks, inventive vegetarian dishes and, of course, amazing handcrafted beers brewed right here in Korea. Open every day but Mondays from 11 a.m. ‘til 2 a.m. 02-794-2537 HBC Gogi-Jib Out Noksapyeong Exit 2 (Line 6) and walk straight along the street with the kimchi pots. English menu and staff. #:02-796-5528. Nightly bbq specials, generous servings, and open late. Le Quartier Latin Go out Sinchon Station Exit 3 (Line 2) and walk straight until you get to the big church. Make a right and walk about 500 meters. Look for the large French Flag. English Menu and Staff. #:02333-9874. Prices: 4,000-26,000 won. Authentic French Bistro with reasonable prices. Naked Bar and Grill Line 6 Itaewon Station Exit 1 walk straight and make a right at KFC. Naked Bar and Grill is next to B1 on the left. English menu and staff. #:02-794-4225. Prices: 5,000 to 40,000 won. The perfect after party place with great food and drinks. Naked Grill Naked Grill is located at Yongsangu, Hannam Dong 29-21 towards the U.N. Village. English menu and staff. #:02-749-4225. Prices: 4,000-12,000 won. Tacos and homestyle American favorites for eat-in or take-out. Petra Restaurant Kebab House Exit 3 of Noksapyeong Station 68 | www.GROOVEKOREA.com| august 2011
(Line 6) and up the overpass. It’s located to the right. English Menu and staff. #:02-790-4433. Prices: 5,000-18,000 won. Authentic Arab food made by a certified chef. Excellent Falafel, hummus, and Sultana style lamb and chicken. Pizza Peel Go out Exit 4 of Itaewon Station and walk past the Rotiboy and make a left into Market Alley. English Menu available — davelauckner@hotmail.com. Itaewon’s Newest Pizza Shop serving fresh pies daily. Roofers Go out Itaewon Station Exit 3 and make a right at the Fire Station. It’s on floor of the building across from the Foreign Food Mart. #02749-2970. An artsy, spacious bar with good food. They have an outside roof that is used for brunch and performances. Rookies Ichon (Line 4) Exit 5 and walk in the direction of Yongsan Station. Pass train tracks to your left. It’ll be on your left. English menu and staff. #:02-792-3383. Price: 4500-22,000 won. A sports bar with creative bar food and burgers. Sanchae House (산채집) Go up around Namsan Mountain from Myeong-dong Road. It is near the Namsan Cable Cars and the restaurant N’Cucina. English menu. #:02-755-8775. Price: 8,000-25,000 won. Savory bossam and fresh leaf bibimbap. Spice Table Go straight out of Exit 2 from Itaewon Station, turn left onto the first street (corner of Helios), Spice Table is on the left (2nd Floor) and across from Los Amigos. English spoken and English Menu Available. #:02796-0509. Price: 7,000-25,000 won (Cuisine), 8,000 won Lunch Special Menu, 40,000-90,000 won (Wine) Stylish Asian food to Itaewon using a fresh and flavorful approach. Wolfhound Go out Itaewon Station Exit 4 and turn left to go down the hill and make the first right. English Spoken and English Menu Available: 02-749-7941. Price 10,000-20,000 won for food. The best Fish-N-Chips and comfort food in an Irish Pub atmosphere. Yaletown 400 meters from Sinchon Subway Exit number 2. Make a left at Beans and Berries. English Menu. #:02-333-1604. Price: 5,00018,0000 won. Great Pub fare such as poutine, burgers, and nachos. august 2011| www.GROOVEKOREA.com| 69
Community SPORTS
Softball Gaelic Football
Adventure Sports with IGK When: Ice climbing in winter; rock climbing rest of year; monthly Climbing Club outings Registration: Wednesday before the outing How much: Climbing Club is 55,000 won Where: All over the country Online: http://iguidekorea.com, igk@iguidekorea.com
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hile hiking and camping are common activities for Koreans and expats, rock climbing, ice climbing, mountain biking and off-piste snowboarding are less popular. IGK is changing that. Korea has beautiful mountains. And in those mountains, there are sporting adventures to be had. IGK has been introducing expats and Koreans to outdoor adventures in Korea for years. “We bring these adventures to the expat community so the people have something fun and new to do; to let them discover Korea’s natural wonders; to bring them into a new community of like-minded adventureseekers; to get healthy and free from stress; and because there is nothing like getting
Ball Hockey
over your fear and self-doubt while doing something radical in your process,” said Eddy Park, a 35-year-old, seven-year resident in Korea. IGK has been involved in the expat community and larger Korean society for nearly five years. It organized clean up teams for the Taean oil spill in 2007, it hosts an annual golf tournament for expats, “and we sponsor sporting events, charities, and our own mountain bike team. We are part of the expat community, and we believe that being part of a community means giving back to it,” said Park. The Climbing Club outings take people to different climbing areas throughout the country. The schedule can be found at http://iguidekorea.com/igk-cc.html. Anyone can join and experience is not necessary. All climbing gear is available from IGK.
Adventure Sports
Fitness Center Flag Football
Paragliding in Daejeon
Paragliding
Language: Korean How much: 100,000 won Online: cafe.daum.net/beeikjo
Ultimate Frisbee Kiteboarding White Water Rafting Handball Sky Diving Baseball IGK Adventure Sports Football Sailing Ice Hockey * Update on Runner Norah Newcombe
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Kiteboarding Online: www.starbeachboat.com (Gangneung), www.hiwind.co.kr (Seoul) Language: Korean Go to Gangneung, a small city on the east coast, for kiteboarding and kitesurfing. You’ll have to bring a Korean friend if you aren’t fluent.
White Water Rafting in Gangwon Where: Inje, Gangwon Province Online: www.paddler.co.kr If you’re a thrill seeker and into the great outdoors, then don’t leave Korea without going rafting in Gangwon Province. Tourists have been heading to Gangwon
Province for years for its ideal rafting rivers. Some of the most popular are Hantan River, (15 km long; known here as the Grand Canyon of Korea), Dong River (72 km long) and Naerin Stream rafting course (70 km long). Prices are generally from 100,000 won for one day to 400,000 won for the weekend. After completing a course, you will be allowed to ride class-II rapids (fast enough to give anyone a thrill). The rafting/kayaking season is from March to October.
Across the river from Kaist, paragliding school Beeik Jo’s 500,000 won course includes classroom hours, ground training and jumps. Students learn to inflate their parachute on the ground before starting with low flying in calm wind. The classroom portion of the course is held in Korean. Satisfying the jump requirement to complete the course could take a year or more, due to the extreme weather dependency of the sport. There is no jumping without wind, too much wind, unpredictable wind, wind blowing in the wrong direction or rain. For 100,000 won, jump with an instructor and fly for 15-20 minutes (average flight time for a beginner is roughly 5 minutes, whereas an expert might fly for over an hour). The club jumps on Sundays year round, weather permitting, with the slowest months being May due to unpredictable winds and July due to the rain. Members drive to designated paragliding launching spots scattered around the peninsula in places like Boryeong and Muju.
Sky Diving Online: www.skydivingschool.or.kr, www.kpa.or.kr Language: Korean If you’ve never been sky diving before, chances are you won’t take the leap in Korea for the first time. There are no Englishspeaking courses or instructors to guide you in the plunge. Plus, skydiving isn’t done commercially — meaning you and a friend can’t show up, take a class and jump out of a plane all on the same day. You can, however, charter a helicopter or join a Korean sky diving club. See the websites for more information.
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Community SPORTS
The Ladies team poses with their runners up medals from the AGG in Hong Kong, September 2010.
Gaelic Football in Seoul Where: Usually at Sanbon Stadium (Line 4), Seoul Registration: Open When: Saturday training; season is March-Oct. Who: Co-ed How much: 80,000 won per season Online: seoulgaels@gmail.com; www.seoulgaels.com
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t the end of the day, Phill O’ Neill, from Belfast, Ireland, says the Seoul Gaels are just as much a social club as they are a football club.
“Our league and organization bring together both sexes and many nationalities
Handball in Seoul When: Regular season Sept.-June; beach season July-Aug. Registration: Open How much: 50,000 won Where: Olympic Park Station, Seoul Who: Co-ed Online: www.seoulexpatshandballclub.org
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stablished in 2009, the Seoul Expats’ Handball Club bills itself as a multicultural team with players from Africa, America, Europe, Oceania and Korea.
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into a relaxed and friendly atmosphere,” the 23-year-old club secretary and player said. The Seoul Gaels have been established for just under a decade. In the early days, it began with a few Irish lads wanting to play Gaelic football. When new members join, they receive an open welcome and form a bond with the city and club. It helps people to settle into Seoul because there is a group of like-minded people. “It just depends person to person. People get different things out of it, some use it just to keep fit, others join the Gaels as soon as they arrive and make friends, it is possible to establish work contacts,” said O’ Neill. There are a few Koreans and the team has some Korean Business sponsors. They do charity work, such as visit and raise funds for orphanages or simply volunteer time and teach Gaelic football. Players are mostly from Ireland, but there are some Americans, Canadians, Australians
and New Zealand players who either are new to the game or played something close to Gaelic football. “We expand far beyond the Irish community and invite anyone who wants to try. We teach them the basics and help them develop. Some of our top players started off from (scratch) and progressed to be solid and talented players,” O’ Neill added. In August, the Seoul Gaels are going to Singapore for a competition. In July, August and September, the Gales compete in the Korean League. On Oct. 15 and Oct. 16, the Asian Gaelic Games will be held down at the Suwon World Cup complex. This will be the 16th games and 25 teams from 15 countries from all over Asia -- from as far West as Dubai and Qatar to as far south as Singapore -- compete to be crowned Asian Champions. The Seoul Gaels are three-time winners of the men’s competition and the ladies team regularly competes for the top prizes.
years, is a Seoul Expats’ Handball Club player, manager and coach. “As the first expat handball club created in Korea, the Seoul Expats Handball Club aims at giving everybody the opportunity to play the sport of handball in Seoul and around Korea,” said Nivaggioli. “Male and female players, beginners and experts, foreigners and photo by The team trains every Tuesday from 8 p.m. christophe nivaggioli Koreans -- everybody is to 10 p.m. at the Korean National Sport Uni- welcome, so do not hesitate to visit.” versity gym (Olympic Park Station) and parthe website (www.seoulexpatshandballclub. ticipates in the Korean Handball Amateur See org ), or call Christophe Nivaggioli (010-9028League, with up to three games per month. 4770), or Philippe Jourdain (016-9890-2878) Christophe Nivaggioli, 30, in Korea for four for more information.
Norah Newcombe, a native of Ireland and resident of Seoul, was featured on the cover of Running Life, a major Korean running magazine, in June. Newcombe has won numerous races in Seoul in the 5k,10k and half marathon distances. Since Groove wrote about Newcombe last year, she has finished a full marathon in three hours, one minute, 33 seconds. The time qualifies her for the Boston Marathon, which is considered one of the most difficult and discerning marathons in the world.
Flag Football in Daegu Where: Kyungpook National University (tentative) Registration: Early September When: Season starts Sept. 18-Nov. 13 Who: Pick-up games are co-ed; league is for men How much: Undetermined Online: dnl.jackson@gmail.com
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aegu Flag Football began with a group of eight guys playing on a dirt and rock field in the summer of 2009. It became such a hit, that in September of 2010 they launched the inaugural season, consisting of four teams of 10 players.
“We offer people the opportunity to come out, be competitive and have fun. Before games, people are there socializing and talking trash to each other about the upcoming matches. During the games, we are able to go out and just enjoy ourselves and forget about the stress of everyday life,” said Daniel Jackson, 25 years old, a player and organizer. “After the games, people are free to go home or stay and socialize over a few beers.” Jackson said Daegu doesn’t have a large expat community compared to Busan or Seoul, but the city has a lot to offer. “We are just giving the people here another reason to look forward to the weekend. Whether you're that diehard football player that wants to win it all or just that guy that wants to come out and have some fun and share some good laughs, the flag football league is open to you. Come on out and see why everyone is excited about Daegu Flag Football,” said Jackson. Daegu Flag Football supplies jerseys and equipment (covered in the registration fee). Cleats would be useful, but not necessary. Aside from the league, pick-up flag football games are played every Saturday afternoon at 1 p.m. at a field along a river near Ayanggyo Subway Station. For more information, contact Daniel Jackson by e-mail (dnl.jackson@ gmail.com) or phone (010-2585-8701).
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Community SPORTS
Ball Hockey in Seoul When: Sundays; spring season (Feb.-June); fall season (Aug.-Dec.) Registration: A month before each season Player selection: Draft is held each season How much: Spring (160,000 won); fall (140,000 won) Where: Next to Olympic Stadium, Seoul Who: Co-ed Online: cbhk.info@gmail.com, robgibs@gmail.com, cbhk.org
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The Canada Ball Hockey Korea league is competitive, but it is also provides a very social platform,” said Rob Gibson, 41 years old, and a 10-year resident of Korea.
Ice Hockey in Anyang Where: Anyang Sports Complex Registration: Ongoing When: Every Sunday nights 9-11 p.m. How much: 15,000 won/skate; 60,000 won/month Online: charfull@yahoo.com
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eginning in 1999, Geckos hockey is the original expat hockey team in Korea, and according to players, it has always been about making new friends and being able to play a sport they grew up with. “In Korea, it provides a great opportunity 74 | www.GROOVEKOREA.com| august 2011
to meet like-minded people, have a fun and competitive two hour skate, and then a few beers,” said Charles Fullerton, 33, player and president of the hockey team. “Many friendships that have extended far beyond their times in Korea have started on the ice. Players help one another both on and off the ice with the veterans guiding those fresh off the boat around the obstacles of life in Korea.” Geckos have hosted international hockey tournaments (the Kimchi Pot) with teams from all over Asia. It has also competed in tournaments in Thailand, China, Mongolia, Russia, the Philippines and Japan. “Geckos players also dedicated their time and money to supporting Habitat for Humanity Korea. Every year, the team plays an inter-squad tournament for the Imjin River Cup,” said Fullerton, who has been
in Korea for nine years. “The tournament is held in honor of the brave men and women of the Canadian Forces who fought in the Korean War and who played the first hockey game on the peninsula on the frozen Imjin in 1952.” Full hockey gear is required. While they do not play body contact, there is always some incidental contact and the puck and sticks are very capable of causing bodily harm. The team suggests bringing equipment from home or ordering it online, as it is prohibitively expensive here.
Geckos have hosted international hockey tournaments (the Kimchi Pot) with teams from all over Asia.
Anyang Sports Complex can be reached from either Anyang or Indeogweon stations.
They hold keg parties at the rink and have events at sponsors’ bars and restaurants. The league website (cbhk. org) is used for some good (and bad) natured chirping, but also for buying and selling used goods, job advertising, and exchanging info about living in Korea. A hockey stick is all that’s needed, but the league encourages players wear mouth guards, hockey gloves, shin guards and cups. Goalie gear is provided for goaltenders. The league sells composite one-piece sticks for 70,000 won and there are sports shops nearby that sell wooden sticks for 40,000 won. They play on Sundays from noon to 8 p.m. Each team plays two 45 minute games in two hour blocks. Every week, teams play in one of the following time slots: 12-2 p.m., 2-4 p.m., 4-6 p.m., or 6-8 p.m. Saturdays are open to anyone. august 2011| www.GROOVEKOREA.com| 75
Football in Seoul
Community SPORTS
What: Seoul Sunday Football league Where: Seoul area When: Spring March-June season; fall season is Sept.-Dec. How much: Prices vary according to team Online: www.ssflkorea.com
Baseball in Seoul What: Seoul Baseball League When: Summers Registration: Passed How much: 80,000 won Where: Hankuk University of Foreign Studies Online: seoul_baseball_league@yahoo.com; Seoul Baseball League on Facebook
photo by james shin
Softball in Daegu When: Sundays; spring (Feb.-June); fall (Aug.-Dec.) Registration: Two weeks in March Player selection: Player draft is held by captains How much: 50,000 won Where: Three fields in Daegu Who: Co-ed (10 men, three women per team) Online: Daegu Softball 2011 on Facebook
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or Chris Bolger and Douglas Karalius, the Daegu Softball League – one of the biggest expat sports leagues in the country - gives them that piece of home they miss the most.
“We get a form of healthy competition. People look forward to Sunday. So much so that they keep their Saturday nights tame so that they can go out and have a good game,” said Bolger and Karalius, captains and play-
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ers in league. The league has a weekly podcast that recaps previous games, previews upcoming games as well as some league discussion, be it rules or MVP candidates. The listenership is above 150 on a weekly basis. The Daegu Softball League is a meeting place for 100-plus people. “We BBQ, listen to music and drink beers before and after games. One guy in our league was not enjoying his time in Korea, had yet to meet anyone, was missing home and overall disliked being here. Then he joined the Daegu Softball League and resigned his contract so that he could play next year. This provides some competitive fun, a network of people to meet and just an overall great time,” said Bolger. The 50,000 won registration fee gets you a minimum of 10 games -- 11 if your team is in the top six and makes the finals; a team jersey and a year-end banquet. The Daegu Softball League provides equipment (bats, balls, bases), though it is up to players to get there own glove.
What: Martial arts, yoga Where: Itaewon, Seoul How much: From 60,000 won/month Online: www.seoulmartialarts.com, seoulmartialarts@gmail.com
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ocated at the entrance to Gyeongnidan in the Itaewon area, the Body and Seoul fitness center offers classes in Muay Thai (Thai kickboxing), Brazilian Jiu-Jitsu and yoga.
Owner Anna Desmarais, who has a black belt in ITF taekwondo, said she was interested in learning more practical martial arts, but didn’t want to travel far for class-
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ing among soccer leagues in Korea is the Seoul Sunday Football League, which has over 400 players in two divisions. Modeled after professional leagues, Divisions 1 and 2 have 16 teams.
When dave Kim, 35, suits up, he says he enjoys the team spirit most. “(It) feels great to be part of a team and to enjoy the sports we all love so
much,” he said. “It’s a great way to meet other expats and to share experiences regarding work and travel in and around Korea.” Kim said he got involved “for the love of the game and to help out the fellow expats get involved in organized sports in Korea.” Playing soccer with players from other cultures gives Koreans and expats a chance to see how differently the game can be played, according to Kim. “Koreans can experience first hand how different the same game can be playing with or against the expats and vice versa.” Most teams meet every weekend. For general league information, go to www.ssflkorea.com
photo by nick chaddock
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yler Shultz, a 27-year-old English teacher, hasn’t been in Korea for longer than two months, but he’s already apart of the Seoul Baseball League. The four-team Seoul Baseball League convenes every other weekend, with the summer season ending in late July or early August. “Baseball is a great way for expats and Koreans to come together to share a common interest. Being part of a team is a great opportunity to meet new people with similar interests, which will most likely lead to a larger circle of friends,” said Shultz. “For those just arriving in Korea, playing baseball will no doubt ease the stress and curb the effects of culture shock and not the worries and nervous feelings that can come with being in a new country.” Ryan Burda founded the league and can be reached by e-mail at seoul_baseball_ league@yahoo.com. League fees cover batting helmets and uniforms (pants, hat, jersey). Payers must supply their own glove.
es. Seeing there wasn’t a gym dedicated to Jiu-Jitsu and Muay Thai in the Itaewon area, Desmarais put a plan in action to start Body and Seoul, which recently celebrated its one-year anniversary. “At Body and Seoul, we believe that anybody, no matter your age, gender, or current physical condition, can benefit from training in a martial art or practicing yoga. We want to bring out the best in people physically and mentally, no matter what your goals are, whether it’s losing weight, de-stressing, or fighting in the ring,” said Desmarais. Information about programs and instructors can be found on the center’s website, www. seoulmartialarts.com
Sailing in Busan When: Lessons offered mid-April to Oct. Registration: Year-round How much: Membership is 150,000 won-900,000 won Where: Busan Phone: 010-2858-9470 Online: koreasailing@gmail.com
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here were few expat sailors when Mark Chi, president of Busan Expat Sailing Club, arrived on the scene eight years ago.
Since Chi started the Busan Expat Sailing Club in 2008, the number of expat sailors has grown significantly. The club has facilities inside the marina as well as 10 boats reserved for members. BESA has a sailing school and trains about 100 new sailors each year. “One of BESA's main functions is to bridge the gap between expats and local sailors. Club members regularly interact with locals and often build close friendships along the way,” said Chi. “The BESA sailing team is also routinely invited to local regattas throughout the country. For many events, having expat sailors there helps to create a more international feel.” The club was founded as an expat club, but Chi said that Koreans are starting to
BESA has a sailing school and trains about 100 new sailors each year. show interest, with a rising number of Koreans learning through the sailing program and joining BESA. “I always have a good sailing day. Being out on the water gives me a thrill, but it's also a way for me to relax. It's almost like meditation,” said Chi. “The peace you can find out there being one with nature is indescribable. Sailing can also be a physically demanding sport, so it can be a good workout as well.” Dinghies can be rented for 30,000 won to 50,000 won and keelboats can be rented for 150,000 won to 200,000 won. Weekend dinghy lessons (two full days) cost 120,000 won and each keelboat lesson (three hours) costs 50,000 won. Corporate rates vary depending on the needs of the client.
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Community SPORTS
Ultimate Frisbee on Jeju What: Ultimate Frisbee Where: Jeju Island When: Saturdays How much: About 30,000 won; practice discs 20,000 won Contact: Nick Cook, 010-2355-0871 Online: www.koreaultimate.net; kupaleagues@gmail.com
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Many players will tell you that they love the sport, but even more, they love the community. Ultimate is known as a welcoming sport, full of players who are looking to compete, but also have a good time,” said Beth Houtrow, a 31-yearold Korea Ultimate Players Association organizer.
“We are always looking for opportunities to spread our love of ultimate to new people, and we encourage new player development through pickup, league, and clinics.” Jeju’s Korea Ultimate Players Association meets Sundays at Ichon River Park. League games are held in the spring and fall. During the regular season, clinics are held on Sundays at 11:30 a.m. to help new players learn the game. Ultimate in Korea is about 60 percent expats and 40 percent locals. Ultimate Frisbee (or just “ultimate”) was invented in the United States in the 1960s. It is a team sport played with a Frisbee and combines aspects of American football, soccer, and basketball. Two teams of seven square off on a field with two end-zones. The object is to catch the disc in your opponent’s endzone for a score. During play, the player with the disc cannot run, so in order to move the disc downfield, the player must pass it to open teammates. If a throw is dropped or knocked down by a defender, then possession changes and the other team can pick up the disc immediately and start moving it the other way. Ultimate is the most popular sport among Jeju’s tightly-knit expat communities. Getting to know people you might not have had the chance to otherwise is cited by members as an important benefit to the group. “This provides an excellent opportunity to not only meet new expat friends, but also make Korean friends. Expats and Koreans play ultimate together and travel to tournaments together. Being a part of KUPA gives you a huge community of friends,” said Houtrow. “Join if you are looking for an opportunity to get plenty of exercise, meet lots of new people, and find fast friends. Ultimate Frisbee will provide you with an instant community in Korea, and almost anywhere else in the world you move. You're always welcome on an Ultimate field.”
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Teams
Listings
Seoul Saturday Soccer League - Please apply to soccersaturday@hotmail.com and leave your phone contacts to call you for more information.
Handball - Team Handball - Olympic Handball - We often organize friendly games against Korean teams during evenings or weekends. Male or female players, beginners, intermediate or advanced players... everybody is welcome! Just email SEB at handballinkorea@ gmail.com or visit www.handballinkorea.org
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Royal A siatic Societ y (R AS) – This non - profit organization offers lectures about Korea’s history and culture, while also offering tours to various locations around the country. Please contact raskb@ kornet.net or visit www.raskb.com
Gaelic Club - If you are looking for a physical and competitive sport, while also wanting some craic while you are at it, then check out Irish football, aka Gaelic. It is a mixture of soccer, basketball and rugby. Male and female teams meet frequently for training, games and social events.www.seoulgaels.com Touch Rugby - contact seoultouch@gmail.com and more information can be found at touchtagrugby. blogspot.com International Taekwondo club - looking for new members interested in taekwondo and cultural exchange on Sat& Sun 4:30PM ~ 8:30 PM near Konkuk Univ. Email to tm3ym@hotmail.com or visit to http://cafe.daum.net/arirangtaekwon Korea Ultimate Players Association – If you have been searching for some hot disc action in Korea, come out to play ultimate every Sun with the Korea Ultimate Players Association. Please visit www. koreaultimate.net Disc-Golf in Seoul - Looking for something different to do and want to be more active in Korea? We are always looking for new people to play disc-golf every Saturday. contact discgolf@naver.com The Korea Lacrosse Association would like to involve more non-Koreans, with or without lacrosse experience, to participate in the growing tournaments and leagues. Please contact by emaiil parkpc@ lacrosse.or.kr or 02-743-5291 Football Club - Gecko's FC is looking for players, preferably with experience, for the start of the new season.We practice regularly, play games on Sundays and take road trips once or twice a season. Please contact geckosfc@yahoo.com Crystal Palace Football/Soccer Team – We are recruiting players of all abilities to join our games played in central Seoul. Please contact Alex at harryhowlett@hotmail.com or 010 3040 6114 Seoul Survivors RFC -Seoul Survivors has been around for over 20 years. We practice regularly and play a variety of different teams in friendlies, competitions and on tours. For more information, please contact Ian at koreanianr@yahoo.co.uk or 016-897-6282 The Seoul Sunday Football League, a competitive amateur expat league, is looking for referees to officiate matches in Seoul and surrounding areas on Sundays. No official qualifications are necessary, but you should have a good knowledge of the game. Pay is 70,000 won per game. Also, if you are interested in playing, then we can also find you a team. Please contact: seoulfootball@hotmail.com Seoul Sisters Women’s Rugby Club: Looking for new members, both Korean and foreign, to grow the in-house league. No experience is necessary and there are great coaches to get you up to speed quickly. contact seoulsistersrugby@yahoo.com or check out www.ssrfccom Lokomotiv Goyang Football Club: Playing games in both Seoul and Goyang, we are a football team always looking for new members. Please contact lokogoyang@yahoo.co.uk or check www.lokomotivgoyang.com
Clubs Free Bellydance Classes in English in Itaewon nights and weekends. Over 20 classes a week. Learn an art, awaken your body, make friends, eliminate stress, pamper yourself! http://eshebellydancer.com Bellydance Classes in Seoul Tues nights & Thurs mornings. Belly dance is an energizing, low-impact exercise suitable for men & women of all ages. Reduce stress, improve balance & posture, strengthen & tone muscles, develop grace, reduce weight, and increase self-confidence! bellydancekorea@hotmail.com
Kimchi Confessions purevolume.com/jeremytoombs | www.myspace. com/jeremytoombs Writing Club - Looking to form/join a writing group. Meetings would likely be on the weekends, twice a month. My focus is on short fiction/prose at the moment, but I would be open to non-fiction/longer works as well. email Bryan at scriptingends@gmail. com Lodge Han Yang #1048 the oldest Masonic lodge in Korea welcomes all visiting and returning brethren to attend our regularly scheduled meeting every second and fourth Wednesday. Contact lodgehanyang@ hotmail.com for additional information Seoul Fencing Club — Seoul Grand Park in Ichondong. Please go to www.seoulfencing.com or email seoul.fencing.club@gmail.com. The Seoul Book Club, a new book club. We plan to meet once a month read and various works in English and then share and discuss our impressions, all are welcome. Please contact Sean at 010-3648-2861 or stm@iis.or.kr KH Toastmasters is a fun, supportive environment to learn public speaking and leadership skills in English. Our group is a dynamic mix of foreigners and Koreans, and we meet 8pm every Tuesday in Hyehwa. Guests always welcome. A map of our meeting location can be found at: khtoastmasters. com Southside Hash House Harriers: Do you like to walk, run and drink beer? Well then, come and join the Seoul branch of this world-wide club that meets in a different location south of the Han River each Sunday at 11:00am. All levels of fitness are welcome, just bring along your sneakers and a sense of humor! Please contact Countess at smcrae77@yahoo.com Section 8 Gaming: we meet Sundays in the Seoul area to play a variety of pen and paper role playing games, including Dungeons and Dragons. Contact section8gaming@gmail.com. Toastmasters International, every Thursday Night, near GyeongBuk Palace Subway station, for more information visit the following websites: www. toastmasters.org www.seoultmclub.net or Contact us at: profirving2001@yahoo.com Belly Dance Classes in English. Learn fine muscle control of the torso, arms and hips, and interpretation of intricate music in English with an interesting group of women. Classes on Tuesday nights and Saturday mornings. All levels welcome. Contact eshe@eshebellydancer.com. Texas Hold Em in Ilsan - Weekly Hold Em throw down at cool bar in La Festa, Ilsan Tues & Thurs around 10pm & Sundays 7pm. Contact mrleon29@gmail. com I'm all-in. May the flop be with you! I n t e r e s t e d i n T h e a t r e? S e o u l P l a y e r s i s a n all-volunteer community theatre group which does two English language shows a year. For more info, please email seoulplayers@gmail.com Interested in Surfing? There are trips throughout the winter to discover Korea’s secret spots and great waves. Please contact Nathan or Jack at Seoulboardriders@hotmail.com
Korea Latin & Salsa Korea Latin and Salsa welcomes new members of all ages and experience levels for parties, salsa lessons in English and Spanish, trips, friends, and fun. Please visit our website KoreaLatinAndSalsa.com
Bazzer’s Buddies Dog Walking Club Namsan, Han River and other outdoor areas around Seoul. A fun way to get out on a Sunday afternoon and meet new friends. Send an email to www.bazzerdog.com to find out when and where we will meet.
Seoul Artists Network (SAN) have a bi-monthly open mic that takes place at Woodstock in Itaewon on the first and third sundays of each month. www.
The Original Seoul Toastmasters Club - Are you interested in joining a club of professionals working to develop communication and leadership skills?
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International Clubs
Investor & Real Estate Club Meetings - Every Monday @ Watts On Tap. Discussions on international dating, relationships, investments. Discuss investments with ROI higher than KOSPI average. Anyone with valuable or critical comments wins cash & prizes! Contact 010-5552-5568
St Pats FC - seoulstpats@gmail.com
The American Women's Club (AWC) now meets at the Sofitel Ambassador Hotel at 9:30 AM on the first Tuesday of each month. www.awckorea.org. The Australia & New Zealand Assocation (ANZA) meets at the Grand Hyatt Hotel at 9:30AM on the third Tues of the month. For more information, please visit www.anzakorea.com or events@anzakorea.com
Meet new friends, both Korean and foreign, at the original Seoul Toastmasters Club. Please contact Joohun Park at jhpamc@hanmail.net and 011 9279 8299 or visit www.seoultmclub.net
The British Association of Seoul (BASS) meets at the Seoul Club from 10 AM to Noon on the fourth Tues of the month. For more information, please contact basseoul@yahoo.co.uk
Seoul PMS H3 – This is a running club for women that is also part of the Hash House Harriers. We meet one Saturday afternoon a month and are looking for other women who like to run, walk, drink and/or socialize. Contact msthanx4nothin@gmail. com or visit www.myspace.com/seoul_pms_h3
The Canadian Women’s Club (CWC) meets the second Tues of the month & also participate in a group activity the fourth Wed of the month. For more information, contact sujaybee@yahoo.com
Karaoke Club - Join a karaoke club in Seoul with people who love to sing, whether you sound like Frank Sinatra or Frankenstein! We meet once a month. Please contact seoulsing@gmail.com Are you a vegetarian or vegan in Korea? The Seoul Veggie Club meets twice a month to check out veggiefriendly restaurants and enjoy picnics. Koreans, foreigners, vegetarians and non-vegetarians are all welcome. "Facebook group Seoul veggie club" MEETinSEOUL – Come hang out with a large free, all-volunteer social group. There are no membership fees, just pay for your own cost of the events (movies, dinners etc). www.meetin.org/city/MEETinSEOUL/ Yongsan Kimchi Hash House Harriers - If you enjoy running, walking and trekking throughout Seoul as well as drinking beer, then come join us every Saturday at 10 a.m. For more information, please visit www.freewebs.com/ykhhh (then go to "hareline") or malgosia02@yahoo.com Hiking Club – The International Hikers Club meets every Sat. For more information, please contact sihclub@gmail.com Mostly Over 40 – This club meets for lunch on Sunday a month and, as the name depicts, consists of p e ople who are mo s tly over 40. For more information, contact mostlyover40@yahoogroups. com CWG, ‘Conversations with God,’ discussion and study group is open for anyone who is interested in talking about the themes and implications of this book. Contact markyansen@yahoo.com or 011 9990 4291 Artists – We are interested in starting an artists’ collective in Seoul. Are you a visual artist interested in t aking par t in a group exhibition? C ont ac t seoulcreative@yahoo.comForeigner/Korean Friendship Club: Our purpose is to meet at a bar on Saturdays to meet new people, introduce new cultures, share thoughts and have fun. Contact yupggiklub@hotmail.com or check out seoulcircle.com Fusion Art: Seeking members involved in various arts (painting, drawing, illustration, sculpture, photos and more) for regular meetings and exhibitions to share information about colors and opinions. Please contact bakerycorner@yahoo.co.kr, chubbyhubby@hanmail. net or 010-6423-6037 Korean Movie Club: With English subtitles, people are now able to enjoy and understand recent Korean (and some non- Korean) movies and dramas in front of a 120-inch screen. The club is located just a minute from Sinchon Station. Please contact koreanmovieclub@yahoo.com or www.geocities. com/koreanmovieclub Seoul Stitch ‘n Bitch: This club has a craf ting get-together the 1st and 3rd Sunday of every month in Haebangchon, Seoul, Please contact seoulsnb@ gmail.com or check www.seoulsnb.blogspot.com Sinchon Toastmaster s Club: Looking for new members, both Korean & foreign, wanting to improve their public speaking and leadership skills in an atmosphere where members can also have fun
August '11
interacting together. Please contact Dong Wan at: intervie@naver.com Suwon Scuba Club: A dive club close to Osan Air Base and Camp Humphreys, we teach all Padi courses and run regular tours for fun dives to the East Sea. Along with dives, the club has a major social element with outstanding BBQ's and parties on each tour. Please contact Nic at: nichofberg@yahoo.com, 010 3123 2061 or www.suwonscuba.com
Ice Hockey- Interested in playing with experienced and competitive ice hockey players? Join Korea’s original ex-pat hockey team, the Geckos Glaciers Sunday nights at 8pmin Anyang. Contact Charles at charfull@yahoo.com
Horoscope
email:
info@groovekorea.com
Club Italia hosts a lunch every Sun at 1 PM at the Franciscan School in Hannam-dong. The lunch costs KRW 15,000 and everyone is welcome. For more information, please visit www.clubitalia.or.kr Career Women in Korea (CWIK) at the New Seoul Hotel on the third Wed evening of the month. For more information, please visit www.cwik21.com or contact career_women_in_korea@yahoo.com. The Seoul Intl. Women’s Association (SIWA) meets at the Sofitel Ambassador Hotel at 9:30 AM on the third Wed of the month. For more information, please visit www.siwapage.com Overseas Chinese Women’s Club (OCWC) meets monthly and is open to all women who would like to make new friends, enjoy good food and learn about Chinese culture. Chinese is spoken, but interpretation is available. For more information, please visit our website at ocwckr.spaces.live.com or contact ocwckr@hotmail.com
Announcements ARNIS/KALI: Q: What should a Korean fan of Filipino martial arts who can’t find many like-minded Koreans do? A: Take up English and work with expats. Free 90-minute session weekly between Seoul Station & Sookmyung Station. E-mail ranger1231@gmail.com Navah Bellydance Company - Looking for performers with dance experience or who are willing to train with Eshe for events in and out of Seoul. eshebellydancer@hotmail.com The Ang Dating Daan Korea Chapter conducts free Bible Study and distributes DVDs of Bible Expositions of the only sensible preacher in our time — Brother Eli Soriano. If you want free copies of Bible Expositions and hear free Bible Study, please call 010-57372561 / 010-3004-0817 Amnest y G48 is an of ficial group of Amnest y International Korea. This group is made up of both Korean and foreign volunteers who actively take part in the movement to promote and protect human rights for all people around the world. E-mail Tom for further details @ amnestyseoul@gmail.com. All Native English Speakers, Kyopos, and Koreans. Proficient in English are welcome to join our weekly bible study/fellowship meetup held every saturday at 3 pm. We seek to delve deeply into scripture. Contact Info. 011-359-1317 Bellydance lessons in English in Itaewon at the Well Being Studio by Eshe on Tuesdays and Saturdays. Absolute beginners welcome. Awaken your body and spirit with this ancient healing art. Details at www. eshebellydancer.com or email eshebellydancer@ hotmail.com Bible Study Enthusiasts - Weekly Bible study for Native English Speakers. We are having a weekly Bible Study every Saturday, at 7:30 PM. Everyone is welcome! Call me at 011-359 -1317 or email homechurch-314@meetup.com or homechurch. meetup.com/314/ for further information. S e oul Glob al C enter - S e oul Help C enter for foreigners has been renamed and relocated to the Korea Press Foundation Building floor.
Aries August is a good month for recreation of all kinds, dear Aries, although you may need to double-check schedules as not everything is likely to go by plan. As well, there can be some tensions rising on the home front. The urge to rebel against expectations is strong this month. Watch for impatience with others and a confrontational manner. Friends can demand your attention around the 13th, but they might be confusing or possibly even misleading. Past loves or people you have previously rejected or overlooked might be seen in a new light now.
Taurus You can experience much joy spending time with family this month, dear Taurus, although family vacations taken now may require flexibility and a back up plan. You might also heed speed limits and exercise more patience on the road. Career matters can be confusing around the 13th. The conflicting demands of family and work can grab your attention. Turning to the past in your love life is likely, as new relationships don't seem to be moving forward very quickly. Reassessing past evaluations of people may figure strongly now.
Gemini With your ruler, Mercury, retrograde most of August, dear Gemini, you'd be wise to proactively handle matters revolving around communication and transportation, such as backing up and cleaning your computer, getting a car tune-up, and double-checking schedules. It's a good month for fixing problems and getting organized. You may enjoy very lovely and possibly inspiring conversations with others. Love is enhanced by stronger communication. Watch for impulsive purchases this month, as well as conflicts over money or values with friends around the 9-12
Cancer You can have quite a willful streak this month, dear Cancer! As independent as you're feeling, you could attract resistance and face obstacles. Your best defense is to tone your manner down. Assert yourself when you're truly certain that you deserve what you're demanding so that you don't come across as confrontational. August is a strong month for personal finances, however. While it's not the best time for making a large purchase, it's excellent for reviewing money matters. You might uncover a resource you never knew you had or find a lost valuable item.
Leo All eyes are on you this month, dear Leo, and they like what they see! Your manner is especially gracious and charming now, although you can also be a tad aloof. Decision making takes time for you right now. You can be on the fence about a number of matters in August. Revisiting the past in a relationship may be in order, although confusing elements are likely. Career matters continue with strength. Your personality is shining and those in authority, as well as professional associates, are taking note.
Virgo August is a strong month for taking a break, dear Virgo, although travel may not be as straightforward as you'd hope. Other forms of retreat are just as welcome. As the month draws to a close, however, activity increases and so does your taste for it. You'll have at least two admirers. Money matters are strong, especially around the 29-30. Deceptions may come to light around the 13th, particularly surrounding work. Friendships can at times be strained this month, and it can be difficult to find sincere support for your plans.
Libra The desire for more independence in your career is strong this month, dear Libra, although not everyone is likely to be supportive. Trying to separate fact from fiction in your love life could put you on an emotional rollercoaster, especially from the 9-13. You could find that important people in your life are somewhat unreliable or unpredictable during this period, but be patient, because support comes readily and from a surprising source on the 29-30. Watch for misrepresentation around the 22-23. Be clear, upright, and straightforward in your dealings.
Scorpio With so much attention channeled into career matters, worldly affairs, and the outside world this month, dear Scorpio, you'll need to perform a balancing act with your domestic life, which demands special attention around the 13th. You have a lot on your plate this month, and could face both increased recognition and some stumbling blocks in your career. You may need to deal with temperamental co-workers or bosses. Watching what you say is important now. Pressures subside as the month progresses, even though you remain equally as active.
Sagitarius Work matters can be very strong this month, dear Sagittarius, especially in the last week of August. You might receive recognition or some other fruit of your labor. Love relationships and friendships can be on the temperamental side, however. This hasn't the most reliable arena of your life recently. Arguments about money can figure, and there may be a misunderstanding surrounding just how serious a relationship is getting. Be particularly careful with money and intimate matters around the 9-12, when impulsive moves can bring negative consequences.
Capricorn You might confront more opposition to your plans than usual this month, dear Capricorn. While you typically do very well in the face of adversity, this month, you could be feeling quite moody. Energy is stop and go. Impatience with a partner is possible this month, and issues of freedom, responsibilities, and attention to family are likely heated topics. Clearing the air may be necessary. Review of your budget, and especially of debt or shared resources, can be very fruitful in August. Energy returns towards month's end, when you are more able to see the bigger picture.
Aquarius You need to be more realistic in your expectations of others and of relationships this month, dear Aquarius. Revisiting past relationships and solving old relationship problems are on the agenda in August. Watch for impatience, especially on the job, while driving, and while dealing with transportation or communication mix-ups. Work matters can be very hectic this month, and you may need to deal with troublesome co-workers. You can be quite impatient with routine now, and if you can find a way to set your own pace, everyone will benefit. Physical exercise will be an excellent stress releaser.
Pisces More compromise in love is necessary this month, dear Pisces, but the tendency now is to come on strong and to rush things, which is not your typical style. Tame impatience as much as possible, as love needs time to unfold naturally. Circumstances signal the need for more rest mid-month, even though your instincts, and some snafus and mix-ups, pull you in the direction of work and putting more effort into daily routines. You might spend more money and time in August on "fun" things and leisure activities. august 2011| www.GROOVEKOREA.com| 81
Medical & Health Info Pediatrics Serim Pediatrics 02-544-0234 Apgujung, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Subway line #3. Apgujung stn. Exit 4 Seran Family Medicine Clinic 02-2642-5975 Mok-dong, Yangcheon-gu, Seoul Subway line #5. Omokgyo stn. Exit 2.
Cardiology / Heart Specialist Dr.Simon Lee Heart Clinic 02-543-0072 Chungdam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Ophthalmologist BS Eye Center 02-519-8013 Gangnam Station, Seoul Gangnam stn. Exit 5 Seer & Partner Eye Institute 02-511-0567 Apgujung, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Dream Eye Center Myeong-dong Center 02-779-7888 Gangnam stn. Center 02-554-8400 Obstetrics Cheil Women’s Healthcare Center 02-2000-7119 (Emergency Room) 02-2000-7062 Mukjeong-dong, Jung-gu, Seoul CHA hospital 02-3468-3000 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Miz Medi Hospital 02-3467-3741 Daechi-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Dermatologists TengTeng Skin Clinic 02-337-4066 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Subway line #3, Sinsa stn. Exit 2 Hushu Skin Clinic 02-519-8013 Apgujung, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Subway line #3, Apgujung stn. Exit 3 Nova Skin Clinic 02-563-7977 82 | www.GROOVEKOREA.com| august 2011
Gangnam Stn. Subway line #2, Gangnam stn. Exit 8 Dentists Yonsei Miplus Dental Clinic Hongdae Clinic 02-3141-0028 Sinsa-dong Clinic 02-3141-0028 SMart Dental Clinic 02-517-6278 Apgujung, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Subway line#3, Apgujung stn. Exit 4 UpennIvy Dental Clinic 02-797-7784 Ichon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Hushu Dental Clinic 02-519-8013 Chiropractors Create Wellness Center 02-798-1446 Itaewon, Seoul SKY Wellness Center 02-749-4849 Itaewon, Seoul
Oriental Medicine Jaseng Hospital of Oriental Medicine 02-3218-2167 Apgujung, Gangnam-gu, Seoul INI Oriental Medicine 02-824-0075 Sangdo-dong, Dongjak-gu, Seoul Subway line #7, Soongsil Univ. stn. Exit 3 massage Healing Hands 010-3158-5572 / 02-20718090 Itaewon, Seoul Ophthalmologist Samsung Medical Center 02-3410-0200 / 02-34100226 Emergency 02-3410-2060 Ilwon-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Yonsei University Severance Hospital 02-2228-5800 / 010-99480983 Yonsei Univ., Seoul Asan Medical Center 02-3010-5001 Poongnap-dong, Songpa-gu
Dear Michelle: Banking Advice for
Foreigners in Korea
Submit your banking questions to: farnsworth@shinhan.com
Dear Michelle, What is the deal with online banking in Korea? — Internet Exploder Dear Internet Exploder, Online banking in Korea can be daunting at first because it requires several passwords, a security code card, and a digital certificate. But, after a few transactions the time, hassle, and fees you save using online banking will outweigh
the fear factor. You can check your account balance and transaction history, pay your local bills, transfer money domestically, and remit money overseas 24 hours a day with online banking. But most online banking sites won’t allow you to open or close an account, access a time deposit or installment account, or access a foreign currency account. You must first register for online banking in person at a bank branch with your valid passport and Alien Registration Card. If you do not have an Alien Registration Card, you cannot register for online banking. Be sure that you also designate this bank as your Primary Foreign Exchange Transaction Bank (by filling out a simple form) if you plan to remit money overseas from your online bank account. Your teller will not automatically assume you want to fill out this form. Ask! Then, when you get home, visit the bank’s website to download the digital certificate. I usually recommend that you download the digital certificate to a USB so that you are able to use online banking on any PC with internet access. If you download it directly onto your computer’s hard drive, you will only be able to use online banking on that one computer. Once you have your digital certificate, you can use it for online banking at any bank and also access other Korean websites that require a secure digital certificate log-in. You will also need to use your digital certificate to make an online purchase with your credit card or check card of 300,000 KRW or more from any Korean website. So, if you are planning to shop online, be sure that you first register for online banking and get your digital certificate. You will have to renew your digital certificate every year, but you can do this easily from your PC without visiting a bank branch. It is important to note that if you do not use internet banking for a certain period of time (usually one year), your internet banking service will expire and you will need to visit a bank branch in person in Korea to unlock it. Remember, most banks do not offer English online banking on a Mac; you must use a PC. Mobile banking in English is also quite limited at this time. If you have technical problems when using online banking, the best solution is to call your bank's English Call Center. They have a lot of trouble shooting experience and most can even remotely access your computer to resolve your issue for you (with your permission of course). Best wishes,
Michelle “Dear Michelle: Banking Advice for Foreigners in Korea” is a monthly column written by Michelle Farnsworth. Michelle is an 8-year resident of Korea who is currently the Foreign Client Relationship Manager at the Shinhan Bank Seoul Global Center – the only bank branch in Korea that is exclusively dedicated to serving foreigners and foreign companies. Please visit the “Shinhan Bank Seoul Global Center” on Facebook for more information. Also, please note that the banking information provided in this column is based on Shinhan Bank policies and may not be applicable to all banks in Korea. Michelle Farnsworth Foreign Client Relationship Manager Shinhan Bank Seoul Global Center Exclusive Banking for Foreigners in Korea Seoul Finance Center, 1st Floor 84, Taepyungro, 1-ga Jung-gu Seoul 100-768 Korea Tel: 02-773-3163
Mobile: 010-4788-1991 Email: farnsworth@shinhan.com Web: www.shinhan.com/en Facebook: Shinhan Bank Seoul Global Center LinkedIn: Shinhan Bank Seoul Global Center Twitter: ShinhanBankSGC
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Konglish of the Month The winner receives a food or entertainment voucher worth 50,000 won Please email your entries to: submissions@groovekorea.com
WINNER — Marisa Burton
Crossword
Down
Across 1 Milan's region 9 University official 15 Orchestral piece 16 Disinter 17 Bonds 18 Called 19 "The Bartered Bride" composer 20 Berber nomads 21 Chain of mountains 23 Japan's largest island 27 Celtic language 28 Glacial ridges 29 Questionnaire response 34 Aloe ___
35 Served with a meal 36 "Dies ___" 37 Arcane 40 Without concealment 42 Confined 43 Seasonal songs 44 Dispense 48 Disturbing sounds 49 Gorge oneself 54 Headrest 55 Do over 56 Acquiesce 57 All together 58 Looked lasciviously 59 Sized up
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1 Deprivation 2 Egg cell 3 A ___ technicality 4 Maverick of "Maverick" 5 Embassy worker 6 Catastrophic 7 Gloomy, to poets 8 Agreeable word 9 Drive away 10 Breathed out 11 Routine task 12 Piano fixer 13 Popular watch brand 14 Roulette bet 20 Bushed 22 Flaws 23 Possess 24 Raw materials 25 Emperor after Claudius 26 Item of data 30 Funeral stand 31 The Ponte Vecchio crosses it 32 Pay a visit 33 Things on rings 35 Book conclusion 38 Serial segment 39 Continued a subscription 40 Ruler of the sea before Poseidon 41 Series opener 44 "Have ___ day!" 45 "La ___ Vita" 46 Distance runner 47 Formative years 50 Company with cars 51 Scottish girl 52 Missouri River tribe 53 Look after 54 Buddy 55 Creek
sudoku
The aim of the puzzle is to insert numbers in the boxes to satisfy only one condition: each row, column and 3x3 box must contain one of each digit from 1-9. Theres is a unique solution, which can be found by logical thinking.
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Pic of the Month 1st Place
John Paul Deacon People talk about architectural achievements such as the pyramids, Taj Mahal and Angkor Wat. Will future generations look back at our current cities and architecture with the same admiration?
Theme: Cityscape
2nd Place
Chris Backe
I think of a cityscape not as a collection of buildings, but as a collection of lights. My image is intentionally abstract, but it’s a pattern recognizable to us — intentionally shot to appear as though it could be anywhere in the world.
3rd Place
"Romainjohn" If rivers were the arteries of the world in centuries past, highways have become the veins of world.
The Groove spc Challenge
where/when of the photo. Entries must be at least 2000 pixels on the longest side and 300dpi to meet printing requirements, and be taken no more than two weeks prior to the announcement of the challenge.
The SPC is an online community of expats in Korea who are interested For further info, visit the in learning about and discussing the Seoul Photo Club on Flickr art of photography. But ‘Seoul Photo www.flickr.com/groups/seoulphotoclub Club’ is a bit of a misnomer - membership is free to anyone, anywhere in Korea. Together with Groove Korea we run the photo competition. Each month, a themed challenge is announced in Groove Korea and at the SPC. Past themes include such topics as Repetition, The Sun and Spring Portrait. Just submit your interpretation at the SPC or via email to have a shot at having your pic published here in Groove Korea and winning the monthly prize.
The winner will receive a food or entertainment voucher worth 50,000 won.
You must provide your name and contact details plus a 50-150 word description telling us the what/
September's Challenge: ''Summer" 86 | www.GROOVEKOREA.com| august 2011
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ITAEWON
Bungalow Lounge — 02-793-2344 This bar and restaurant sets the standards of unique excellence to higher levels - decked out with bamboo, sand, pools, swings, a fireplace and more. Chiropractic Clinic — 02-798-1446 American and Australian trained, doctors are fluent in English, Spanish & Korean. copacabana — 02-796-1660 Come to COPACABANA where a mere 29,000 won gets you all-you-can-eat of the best Brazilian barbeque and buffet in Korea. Craftworks — 02-794-2537 The nation’s only foreign-owned brewpub specializing in great steaks, inventive vegetarian dishes and, of course, amazing handcrafted beers brewed right here in Korea. Open every day but Mondays from 11 a.m. ‘til 2 a.m.
HBC/KYUNGRIDAN
Don Valley — 02-796-2384 Conveniently located in the heart of Itaewon, this spacious restaurant accommodates 120 guests for delicious dinners and large parties. Open 24 hours everyday, it specializes in “Korean BBQ Done Right” - grilled beef ribs, bulgogi and bibimbap as well as many others. JONNY DUMPLING — 02-790-8830 Enjoy different styles of healthy, handmade dumplings made fresh everyday. Meat as well as vegetarian dumplings are available. LA CIGALE MONTMARTRE — 02-796-1244 Contemporary French cuisine in cozy and intimate surroundings.with a classy yet casual feel, it has a variety of food which includes a range of mussels. Its terrace brings an outdoor feel yet warm & dry comfort to accommodate the weather. LA PLANCHA — 02-790-0063 Spanish grill restaurant includes combination platters along with al la carte side dishes. Feast inside in the warm and cozy atmosphere or sit out on the plant covered terrace. LOCO LOCA — 02-796-1606 Enjoy Salsa music and dancing in the vibrant atmosphere. Freshly baked pizzas with Latino flavors and the very best South American wines will be served. MARAKECH NIGHT — 02-795-9441 Moroccan & Arabic restaurant offering authentic dishes, atmosphere and music. Wine, beer, juices and yogurt drinks are also available. Enjoy flavored tobacco from traditional shisha pipe. McDonald’s — 02-790-6413 Open 24 hours with breakfast served from 5 – 11 a.m. Panchos — 02-792-4746 A Mexican bar with darts, pool, television and a wide selection of music. A spacious setting with big windows overlooking Itaewon’s main street. Queen Queen welcomes ALL people for who they are and creates an open environment where different people from various backgrounds can cross barriers and unite as one community while having the time of their lives in the ultimate party kingdom!
HONGDAE
SKY Chiropractic & Massage — 02-749-4849 US trained and certified chiropractors and massage therapists. SKY Wellness Center integrates chiropractic and massage to correct your body’s imbalances and achieve optimum health and wellness.
TMAS — 02-796-7976 Total Martial Arts System. Designed for FOREIGNERS and lessons in English. learn true martial arts, training and spending time together like a family. Unique Travel — 02-792-0606 A travel agency in the heart of Itaewon where English, Japanese and Korean are spoken. Wolfhound Irish Pub — 02-749-7971 This two storey Irish pub has a wide variety of imported beers, exceptional food and a great atmosphere. Guinness and Kilkenny on tap. 88 | www.GROOVEKOREA.com| august 2011
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Final Thoughts By John Smith Thang
What You Can Do for the People of Myanmar Diaspora in Korea Needs Help to Fight for Freedom in their Homeland The author is the executive director of All Ethnic Democracy and Human Rights Network. The opinions expressed here do not necessarily represent those of Groove Korea. To comment, e-mail opinion@groovekorea.com. – Ed.
There are a number of ways that Koreans, their government and others here can help Myanmar’s people attain the same access to healthcare, education and freedom that’s readily enjoyed in Korea every day. For one, instead of dealing with Myanmar’s military government, Seoul would be wise to directly assist the country’s private sector, educational institutes, NGOs, and humanitarian services. And even here in Korea, there would be much to gain by supporting exiled Myanmarese pro-democracy and human rights advocators in some way. We need your assistance. The Myanmar diaspora thanks South Korea and the international community for allowing us asylum here and in many other countries. Nevertheless, I survive day by day at the same time as I fight for freedom. A little support would allow us to promote democracy and human rights in Myanmar and elsewhere in Asia more effectively. Also, South Korea needs to do more for political refugees. By granting asylum to more political refugees, Korea would be sending a message that it is a bastion of democracy in Asia. As a partner in freedom, Koreans and people from around the world would demonstrate their
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sincerity by playing their part, however large or small that may be, as a partner in democracy and human rights. Korea stands to benefit in the support of the people of Myanmar. Myanmar’s people need human rights assistance and a genuine drive toward democracybuilding. Only then will the long-oppressed people have a shot at attaining freedom and prosperity. The first step is empowerment to provoke change that will result in the provision of adequate education, social welfare, media and health services. Without direct and uninterrupted improvements in those areas, the effectiveness of the assistance could be in question. According to a South Korean government report, the Republic of Korea’s bilateral assistance to Myanmar amounted to $103 million — $18.3 million in grants and loans of $84.7 million — since 1991. But none of that went toward democracy-building and human rights
development. A little went to education and health issues. However it’s spinned, Korea’s overseas development assistance isn’t as effective at it should be and very little is seen by an average citizen. It is important that South Korea prevent its overseas development assistance from going to fatten the pockets of Myanmar’s government. South Korean interests in Myanmar support education, health and civil society very little or not at all. It’s no secret that most South Korean companies that have invested in Myanmar find that their business goes relatively smoothly. It’s an incredible feat for a county that can’t keep the lights on for it’s own domestic companies. Tell your congressional representative. The people of Myanmar struggle for survival on a daily basis, but it is a reality that will have to change. The more hands of help we have, the sooner that change will come.