the north korea issue
gr by matthew lamers
Arduous march of N.K. tourism The Road To Reunification Korean Kibbutz frozen in time
ve korea feb. 2011 | issue 52
the Pyongyang merry-go-round
by michael breen
Flashback or Flash Forward?
by andrew salmon
my MEMORIES OF NORTH KOREA by RON McMILLAN
A defector tells her story
inside
As the number of defectors from North Korea is on the rise, the government and NGOs have implemented programs to help them integrate into South Korean society. Photo by Matthew Lamers
pages
40-63
the north korea issue
on the front lines
gr
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10 Calendar of Events 12 Korea Beat 16 makeover series:
smart dental 18 advertorial: hushu 20 contest: blogger community
travel
64 Southern Australia Pt. 1 66 Muju Ski Resort 68 Ski and Snowboard Fashion
food & drink
21 Irish Priest 22 Shinsegae Dept. Store 23 Dear Michelle 24 Yeosu Orphanage 25 V-Day 2011
70 The World Vine 72 Burnham’s Burgers, Oase Seafood Buffet, Waegook Cook 73 Namaste 74 High Street Market 77 Restaurant & Bar Listings 78 Listings
arts & Entertainment
79 horoscope
26 The Tremors 28 Silk Road and Dunhuang 30 Club Bbang 31 Movies in February 32 Seoulvibes: ECI 34 Artist Lilit Soelter 36 SCS: Liars, Round Robin Seoul 38 Apollo 18 Fundraiser
80 konglish 82 Itaewon Directory 83 Hongdae Directory 84 Pic of the Month 86 guest column:
Michael breen
ve korea
february 2011 | issue 52 Cover photo by:
Matthew Lamers
Publishers: Sean Choi and MJ Kim Chief Consultant: Ju-han Kim Marketing Director: Jong-shin Lee Editor-in-Chief: Tracey Stark Creative Director: Dan Thwaits
Editor-at-Large: Matthew Lamers International Editor: Adam Walsh Music Editor: Summer Walker Travel Editor: Josh Foreman Web: Daniel Behrendt, Eunseok Lee
To contact GROOVE Korea for advertising, submissions or general comments, please email info@groovekorea.com or call 010-7560-5552 Disclaimer: The articles are the sole property of Groove Korea. No reproduction is permitted without the express written consent of Groove Korea. The opinions expressed in the magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher. Issue Date: Vol. 7, Issue 2 - February 1, 2011 Registration Date: January 25, 2008 Registration No. Seoul Ra 11806
with
groove korea
calendar of events monday
sunday
tuesday
2 for 1 Fish & Chips Every Tues @ Wolfhound Pub in Itaewon Open Mic Every Tues @ Olde Stompers in Itaewon
1 Massage Mondays @ SKY Wellness Center in Itaewon. 1-hr full body massage and get FREE 20 mins. FOOT massage.
Drunken Chicken Night @ Gecko’s in Itaewon History of Rock Every Sun @ The Bungalow in Itaewon. 8pm
MAX Beer Day Every Wed @ Beer O’Clock in Sinchon. Buy any pizza and a Max, 2nd Max FREE. Poker Tournament Every Wed @ Fence in Nonhyun
3,000 won Rum, Gin, Vodka @ Beer O’Clock in Sinchon
About Blank Vol.3 @ VERA in Hongdae
Wing Night @ Orange Tree in Haebangchon. 10 for 3,000won
Sticker Rally @ Club MK in Daegu
Wing Night Every Tues @ Beer O’clock in Shinchon. HALF price with NEW flavours, Every Tues.
Suji’s Sky High Pastrami Sandwiches @ Suji’s in Itaewon/COEX/ Bundang. Every Wednesday after 5pm get an extra 3.5oz. of pastrami free for a 10.6oz sandwich
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Remi Panossian Trio @ Baekam Art Hall in Samsungdong
Steak Dinner Every Tues @ Hollywood Grill in Itaewon. Only 13,500 won
2 for 1 Happy Hour @ NOXA lounge in Kyungridan. 7pm-9pm Tues-Thurs.
Born in 1990. No Cover & 1 FREE Drink Every Sun @ Club Mass in Gangnam til midnight
1992 Graduate Party @ Club Pasha in Daegu
Rib Night @ Sam Ryan’s. 500 won. Barbeque pork Ribs
College Night Every Wed @ Club Mass in Gangnam. No cover & 1 FREE drink with student ID til midnight
Suck Stuff 10th Anniv. Show - Geeks, Whatever Than Means & More @ Club Spot in Hongdae Hope for Tomorrow from Acoustic Café @ Seoul Arts Center Hide & Seek @ ECHO MANSION in Changwon
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3,000 won Rum, Gin, Vodka @ Beer O’Clock in Sinchon
Taylor Swift @ Olympic Park Gymnasium
Liars @ Interplay in Busan — supercolorsuper.com
Shooters Night Every Thur @ Gecko’s in Itaewon. Every shot 4,500 won
Liars @ V-Hall in Hongdae — supercolorsuper.com
19th Daegwallyeong Snow Festival Until Feb. 20
Burning Monkeyz, Giliflower @ Club FF in Hongdae
10cm @ Mapo Art Center
White Angel Party @ VERA in Hongdae
I’m your DJ Vol. 6 @ VERA in Hongdae
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Jusin Productions 10th Anniv. Club Tour @ Club Spot
saturday
Bucket Night Every Fri @ Beer O’clock in Shinchon. 5 shots with mix in a bucket 12,000 won
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Spoken Word/Stand Up Comedy, Poetry Every Wed @ Tony’s Aussie Bar & Bistro in Itaewon 8-11pm
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Art Cinema @ Laughing Tree Gallery in Haebangchon
FREE Seasoned Chips with Order of San Miguel Pitcher - Tues-Sun @ NOXA lounge 5pm-1am.
Guinness Day Every Tues @ Gecko’s in Itaewon
friday
thursday
wednesday
Lose to Win Weight Loss Challenge: Feb1- May 1 @ Create Wellness Clinic in Itaewon www.createwellnesscenter.com
Sunday Night Live Open Mic @ Roofers in Itaewon. Every 1st & 3rd Sunday
february 2011
Sven Vath @ Club eden in Yeoksam
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W Single Party @ Woo Bar - Seoul Walkerhill Hotel
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19th Baby Fair @ COEX Mall until Feb. 20
Drag Bingo Night Every Fri @ Bar Bliss in Itaewon. 9pm
All You Can Eat Ribs - 30,000 won @ Memphis King BBQ in Bangbaedong
Open Stage from 8pm Every Thur @ Dolce Vita in Itaewon
20% OFF for All Set Menus Every Fri/Sat @ Spice Table in Itaewon from 5-9pm.
All Day Breakfast @ Wolfhound in Itaewon. All day, every weekday
Art Cinema @ Laughing Tree Gallery in Haebangchon
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14 2 for 1 Special @ Bar Bliss in Itaewon. Everyday 7-10pm
Eric Clapton @ Olympic Park Gymnasium House of Sharing English Tour visits@houseofsharing.org The BEST brunch in town @ Big Rock in Gangnam. Jan. special offer. ONLY 10,000w.
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Elvis Costello @ Sejong Center for the Performing Arts
Texas Hold’em in Busan Mon-Sun after 6pm. playpokerinbusan@hotmail.com
Movie night - Every Sun @ NOXA lounge. 10pm-midnight.
Bubibubi @ Club Foxy in Busan
27 10/GROOVE KOREA/february 2011
15 BBQ Night Every Tues @ Roofers in Itaewon BBQ Steak + beer = 12,000 won
Andras Schiff Piano Recital @ Seoul Arts Center
Wing Night Every Tues @ Nashville in Itaewon. 250won/wing. 5-8pm
Happy Hour Every Wed @ Bar Bliss in Itaewon
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Quiz & Wing Night Every Wednesday @ Roofers in Itaewon. 8 pm — 100,000 won prize
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Movie “Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter, and Spring” @ Itaewon-Hannam Global Village Center, 6:30 pm. FREE movie, snacks, drinks. Call 02-2199-8883
ULJIN Int’l Crab Festival Until Feb. 28
Apollo 18 Fundraiser @ Liveclub Ssam in Hongdae
FREE Cheese Plate with Order of Bottle of Wine - Every Fri, Sat @ NOXA lounge. z5pm-1am.
Round Robin @ Freebird in Hongdae — supercolorsuper.com
Jazz Festival Every Thur @ La Cigale Montmartre in Itaewon. 7pm
Club Day Last Friday of every month in Hongdae
V-Day Seoul Auction @ Market Alley in Itaewon Anya Dennis Photography & Joel Bewley Painting Exhibition @ Laughing Tree Gallery in Haebangchon
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www.koreabeat.com
february the blog for korean news in english translation
KOREA BEAT
No Body, No Conviction for Bangladeshi Man Exclusive to Groove KOrea
‘Kiss Rooms’ Raided in City of Ilsan Police have begun a harsh crackdown on “kiss rooms” and other varieties of prostitution that until now existed under legal loopholes. The Ilsan Police Station in Gyeonggi-do announced on Jan. 20 that it conducted a two-day crackdown on Jan. 17 and 18 against kiss rooms and Internet prostitution in Ilsan New City, and arrested without detention 32 people, including 38-year-old “B,” the owner of a kiss room, on charges of violating the law on the protection of teenagers (청소년보호법). Also, across the country, 11 people, including 37-year-old “C,” operator of a website for customers and prostitutes, were arrested. Police plan to expand their investigation to over 150 people who used mobile phones to contact these businesses in order to purchase sex. Until now there was no clear provision in the law for punishing kiss rooms and certain other forms of prostitution, placing them in a legal loophole, but last December nine kiss rooms in Ilsan were subject to arrests after the Ministry of Gender and Family decided their advertising was harmful to teenagers. An official with the Ilsan police’s women’s and teens’ unit said that “this is the first time in the country that kiss rooms have been cracked down on and all businesses subject to arrest... this will be the first year of our attempts to eliminate these places.” So... they’re being rounded up because of their advertising? If that’s the case we ought to expect a lot more prostitution arrests this year, given how freely everybody advertises. I once lived next to a middle school in Osan and woke up every morning to find cards and flyers for local brothels covering the roads and stuck in every car’s windshield. Phone numbers, addresses, maps – one even said it was happy to accept Visa and Mastercard. So, better get busy, officers!
12/GROOVE KOREA/february 2011
A Bangladeshi man accused of murdering a fellow countryman and hiding the corpse has been found not guilty by a court, which pronounced that “without a body, it is quite difficult to determine whether the victim is in fact dead.” Judge Seo Seung-ryeol of the Changwon District Courts’ fourth criminal division pro-
nounced on Jan. 21 the judgment of not guilty on 36-year-old Bangladeshi laborer Mr. M, who had been indicted for murdering a Bangladeshi citizen and concealing the body. In explaining the verdict the judge said, “because no body has been found, the key point of contention in this case is whether or not the victim is dead... examining the evidence presented by the prosecution, there is some doubt but I cannot conclude that there has been a death and he may simply be missing.”
Man Busted for Defacing Public Property Exclusive to Groove KOrea On Jan. 21 the Jungbu Police Station in Daejeon arrested 20-year-old Mr. Oh on charges of defacing the observation platform in a public park. According to police, at approximately 11 p.m. on Jan. 10, Mr. Oh used black spray paint to deface a wall of the observation platform
on Bomun Mountain in the Jung-gu area of Daejeon. A member of the police explained, “Mr. Oh used spraypaint to place graffiti on a large area of the platform’s wall and building, significantly damaging the city’s beauty.” The park’s management office had spent over 300,000 won since last October to repaint the platform. Police said that Mr. Oh told them,“I did it as a joke and didn’t know that this could happen.”
Seoul Students Surveyed about Crime in the Areas Near their Schools A study has been conducted on what Seoul children and teenagers believe about the dangers of traffic accidents, assault, rape, and psychological harm in the areas near their schools. The Seoul Foundation of Women & Family (서울시 여성가족재단) announced the results of its survey, titled 2009 Statistical Study of Children and Teenagers (2009 아 동·청소년 통합 조사), of 1,750 elementary, middle and high school students in Seoul. According to the report, elementary, middle and high school students in Seoul believe the areas near their schools are more crime-prone and otherwise dangerous than the neighborhoods in which they live. Of those, 22.7 percent of elementary students, 31.5 percent of middle school students and 26.1 percent of high school students said that their school areas are more crime-prone than their neighborhoods. However, 22.9 percent of elementary students, 32.5 percent of middle school students and 29.6 percent of high school students said that their school areas have more crime. Female students saw more problems than did male students, while 32.5 percent of elementary students, 38.1 percent of middle school students and 41.9 percent of high school students were fearful of traffic accidents near their schools, showing a correlation with age. Over two in 10 (23.4 percent) of elementary students had experienced ostracism in school, and 26.8 percent of middle school students had experienced the theft of money or belongings. Furthermore, over 30 percent of all students had experienced verbal violence, such as serious profanity or insults, at school.As for rates of sexual molestation and sexual assault, children and teens in Seoul experienced higher rates (elementary school 5.5 percent, middle school 2.8 percent, high school 3.1 percent) than students outside of Seoul (elementary 4.0 percent, middle school 2.8 percent, high school 2.5 percent). Of the students who suffered a sex crime, 40 percent of middle school students and 75 percent of high school students told nobody, leaving their friends and parents unaware. Not even one of the middle and high school students who experienced a sex crime told their parents about it. 25.6 percent of elementary students, 16.0 percent of middle school
students and 21.3 percent of high school students had had no sex education classes, showing the need to develop facilities and curricula for sex education. The rate of Seoul students running away from home were higher than the rate outside of Seoul, the study found, with 26.7 percent of middle school students in Seoul having done so, compared to 11.5 percent of middle school students outside of Seoul. The main reason for running away was problems with parents included fights, violence and interfering in the student’s life, and over 80 percent of the runaways had never used the services that exist for runaway teens. All students showed high rates of skipping breakfast and not getting any exercise. High school students were four times as likely as elementary students to get no exercise, with over half, 55.3 percent, of female high school students getting no exercise. However, students were less likely to receive health checkups as they got older, with 44.9 percent of elementary students, 18.8 percent of middle school students, and 8.3 percent of high schools students having received them, raising a red flag over student health. As for after school activities, 15.8 percent of middle school students and 11.5 percent of high school kids play computer games excessively, defined as at least two hours per day. 30.1 percent of middle school students and 3 percent of high school students play computer games five or six times per week, placing middle school students at high risk for game addiction. As for stress levels, all reported school as their highest source of stress, with stress increasing as students aged with 45 percent of elementary students, 65.4 percent of middle school students and 72.9 percent of high school students reporting high levels. Among female middle school students, 51.4 percent felt stress over their physical appearance compared to 25.9 percent of male students, showing the gender difference over physical appearance.Furthermore, 42.8 percent of middle school students and 35.5 percent of high school students report having had thoughts of suicide. The greatest reason for considering suicide was grades, reported by 33.9 percent of the middle school students and 35.7 percent of the high school students.
February 2011/GROOVE KOREA/13
korea beat
www.koreabeat.com
After Torture, 15 Years in Prison, Espionage Conviction Overturned
Serial Child Molester Teacher Gets Stern Talking to from Judge
Judge Choi Sang-yeol of the Seoul High Court’s 9th criminal division announced on Jan. 14 his finding of not guilty in the retrial of 59-year-old Lee Heon-chi, a Japanese-Korean who spent 15 years in prison for industrial espionage. The judge said that “Mr. Lee’s confession, made while he was illegally detained by a national security investigator and subject to cruel treatment, was not voluntary and without it there is no evidence against him to sustain a finding of guilty with no charges remaining, the trial court that found him guilty is hereby overruled.” Mr. Lee, who was educated in Japan and came to Korea to work for Samsung Electronics in 1979, was arrested without a warrant and tortured by national security officers in October 1981. He was indicted for secretly entering North Korea and also for taking orders from an antiKorean organization to infiltrate the ROK and distribute and store illegal literature, all after being recruited by an adviser he had been introduced to by a university classmate. Mr. Lee was sentenced to death by the trial court, commuted to life in prison on appeal, and in September 1982, the Supreme Court af-
On January 7, Judge Ji Sang-mok of the Seoul Southern District Courts’ 12th criminal division ordered 58-year-old Mr. Jang, a teacher indicted for pressing and molesting a female middle school student’s bottom, to pay a five million won fine. The judge also ordered him to complete 40 hours of sex offender treatment. The judge explained the sentence in a written opinion, stating that “as a teacher, Mr. Jang was responsible for guiding and leading students yet molested 14-year old Seo, mentally harming her, so the nature of his crime is not good. However, it is commendable that Mr. Jang quit his job over this incident.” Mr. Jang was arrested in May of last year for entering a stationary store where Seo worked and pressing her bottom with his hands. Mr. Jang has previous convictions for molesting female middle school students, including in June of 2009, when he felt the breasts of a 13-year-old student named Gu.
firmed that sentence. He was released in 1996 on a special Liberation Day pardon after spending 15 years in prison. The Ministry of National Defense’s truth commission concluded in 2007 that he had very likely been tortured and threatened by national security investigators and in July of last year Mr. Lee sought a new trial.
How not to Get your Wife to Stop Drinking Really, beating her to death is just not the answer. The Jeongeup Police Station in Jeollabuk-do began investigating 65-year-old Mr. Kim on Jan. 19 on charges of beating his wife to death because she sometimes drank alcohol. According to police, Mr. Kim is suspected of violently punching and kicking his 58-year-old wife to death at approximately 10 p.m. on Jan. 17 in their home in Yeonji-dong because she was drunk. Mr. Kim said, “I assaulted her because I was so upset that she drank almost every day.” Police plan to seek an arrest warrant for Mr. Kim upon completion of their investigation.
10% of Elderly Men use Prostitutes A study has found that one in 10 men aged 60 and over in Korea is using prostitutes, and attention is therefore belatedly being focused on their risk of contracting sexually transmitted diseases. Professors Choi Hyeon-seop and Lee Seung-ju of 가톨릭의대 성 빈센트병원’s urology department announced on Jan. 4 the results of their survey of the sexual activities and health of 1,804 men and women (816 men and 988 women) aged 60 and over who visited health centers operated by municipal health insurance agencies in Seoul and five other cities in Gyeonggi-do. The study found that the average age of respondents was 64.6. Four of the 1,804 respondents had syphilis, an infection rate of 0.222 percent. Also, 14 had Chlamydia, an infection rate of 0.776 percent. Other common sexually transmitted diseases, chiefly gonorrhea, were not included in the study. Another 26.2 percent of the elderly never use condoms during sexual relations and 28.6 percent use them infrequently, and 10.6 percent of male respondents said they had been to a prostitute in the past year. Despite this, 78.2 percent had never been tested for sexually transmitted diseases even once, showing the need for information about the diseases and their prevention. The study also found that 35.7 percent of respondents, or their spouses, had used Viagra or other medication to treat erectile dysfunction. Prof. Choi Hyeon-seop said that “with the aging of the population and increasing life spans, there has been greater attention paid to sex among the elderly population, but this is the first domestic epidemiological study of sexual disease among the elderly... domestically there is not a high level of sexual diseases among the elderly, but with the increasing number of those using prostitution, there is a need for policy responses including prevention of transmission and protection.”
Electronic Monitoring Now Extended to Robbers The two-years-and-going-strong trend of clapping electronic monitoring anklets onto sex offenders has now spread to robbers. That’s the hope of the Ministry of Justice, anyway, which on Jan. 20 said it would send to the National Assembly a set of proposed changes to the law allowing for electronic monitoring (특정 범 죄자에 대한 위치추적 전자장치 부착 등에 관한 법률). At the end of 2009 the Assembly declined to include robbery as one of the crimes (currently murder and sex offenses) that qualify for electronic monitoring. The recidivism rates among those convicted of robbery is 27.4 percent, compared to 14.8 percent for sex offenses and 10.2 percent for murder. That figure for murder seems pretty high.
14/GROOVE KOREA/february 2011
February 2011/GROOVE KOREA/15
makeover series: part 4
You Don’t Have To Be Afraid of the Dentist Anymore By Summer Walker I’ll be honest; most of my time spent with Dr. Kim Jong-yub of SMart Dental was spent comparing cameras and talking about where to get the best steaks. I probably could have spent a bit less time in his office had I not discussed computer specs (we both favor MacBook Pros, of course) and gotten to know Ga-young, the funny and sweet receptionist -- but I’m glad I did. I showed up to their Apgujeong location (directly outside of Exit 4, above The Body Shop) and nervously prattled on about how I was so sorry for being two minutes late, “…and could I have some water, because I have a little cough, and can you hold my three bags… no, two bags, I need to keep my camera, can you work a camera? I can’t take pictures while being poked at, can I?” She must of thought I was pretty funny when I got tangled up in my skull-pattern scarf and showed off my “lucky” shoes (leopard-print sequin Converse, for the record). I was full of clumsy smiles, but I was hiding something: I might have been there for teeth whitening, but I knew there were other issues. A year earlier, I went to a new and popular dentist that was advertising cheap cleaning and scaling. Cheap is what I like to hear! That particular doctor told me that I had four cavities and that I needed to get them filled pretty soon, or risk a root canal. In addition, I just HAD to get gold fillings because porcelain wouldn’t last long in my mouth. “But… I don’t want gold teeth.” So, like most important yet inevitable things in my life (taxes, student loans) I ignored the situation entirely. I figured I would wait until something started to hurt.
16/GROOVE KOREA/february 2011
SMart Dental Like I said, I was in Apgujeong for teeth whitening, and expected bad news to go along with it. I took a few breaths and got a low-radiation digital radiograph taken. Ga-young took me into a viewing room where she displayed an x-ray of my perfectly healthy looking teeth on a big Samsung flat screen.Then, I was ushered into the hygienist’s chair for cleaning and scaling. “Please don’t hurt me,” I actually whimpered -- or maybe just begged with my eyes, I can’t remember. Whatever happened, it was the first time in my adult life that the simple act of a dental checkup didn’t result in blood and a few tears. When I explained to Dr. Kim that I knew I had been really, really bad by not taking care of those cavities, he said that he didn’t see any cavities, just a couple of cracks in old fillings because I grind my teeth (That makes sense, being a Groove editor is pretty stressful). He took photos of the individual teeth with a wand-like camera and showed me exactly what was going on. I didn’t have four cavities, I had two fillings that needed replacing -- that’s all. Maybe you know this or maybe you don’t -- dentistry is a business. It’s a long-standing practice to over-diagnose patients to pocket a few extra bucks. Dr. Kim advises anyone who is told they need dental work to get a second opinion.“Other dentists get mad at me… but I was always taught not to close my eyes.” He was referring to a Japanese professor he had that urged him not to ignore problems or pretend problems exist. There was no pretending this time. I could see the giant picture of the cracks on the flat screen and I knew there was definitely a hole because sometimes bits of kimchi gets caught back there I couldn’t avoid it, I needed fillings. “I don’t like to call them ‘fillings’, but restorations,” he says with a smile. Yeah, yeah, either way I was going to get the needle. The good news was that I was going to get a composite material instead of ugly metal or brittle porcelain. Since I had a tooth on both sides of my mouth that needed repaired, we opted to use both methods on offer, for purely journalistic purposes having nothing to do with the fact that I wanted to see the cool 3-D scanner that I had seen on his web site. He had to numb my mouth in order to get the old fillings out. “There are two lies dentists always tell: It’s not going to hurt and it’s almost finished,” he joked right after telling me exactly what I would feel and which shot would be the roughest. He said the same thing when he was seconds away way from turning off his drill. If you have ever had a retainer you likely have experienced the goopy, rubbery molding they use to get an impression of your mouth. It’s pretty much standard, and that’s what we used for my right side. For the left, Dr. Kim got out the iTero machine. All he did was use a wand to take photos and the computer told him (in English) if the picture was good or not. “I hate it when she says that,” he quipped when the female voice told him to take one again.This was a lot faster, and more fun because we geeked out a bit over the technology. I asked him why, aside from the coolness factor, do people prefer iTero. He explained that the other method sometimes causes gagging and every now and then doesn’t quite get it right. Then I remembered that I personally experienced both problems back in Texas; retching when the goo was taking hold only to come back and find a mouth guard that didn’t fit. I had to go through the fitting all over again. It took a couple of days to get my “restorations” back from the lab, so I went ahead and brightened my teeth a bit. I had done my research, and knew that we would be using Zoom teeth whitening. It’s the treatment that uses a gel and a blue light to immediately take away those coffee or wine stains. However, the cool thing was that Dr. Kim lent
me his iPod touch that he had equipped with current top songs from Korea and America. While the blue light shined, I got caught up on musical pop culture (Taylor Swift really isn’t that bad). The attendants stuck around and constantly made sure I was OK. The only real problem I had was when I fiddled with the mp3 player and accidentally put a song on repeat. I tried to tell Ga-young there was a problem, but it’s hard to talk with your mouth propped open. “It’s stuck on Kanye! Oh God, it’s stuck on Kanye!” If you’ve ever worked an iPod before, you wouldn’t have the problem. I came back a few days later and wasn’t in the best of moods. I was behind on a few deadlines, had let my Farmville pumpkins wither and was dreading getting those Novocain shots -- in both sides of my face and at the same time. Again, I was a ball of anxiety. Again, it wasn’t necessary. I was acting like a seven year old, but he calmed me down by telling stories about his boys and asking me about work. Then, all he did was pop the temporary filling out, stick the new-and-improved ones in, and polish them up. Finished. They were made to fit my teeth exactly, so they went right in. Maybe it took 15 minutes, it didn’t hurt, and it didn’t require any shots.
I guess this story was supposed to be about the different procedures, nice office and the excellent English language magazine that is available there (guess which one). However, it’s a bigger deal to me that Dr. Kim Jong-yub is an honest, responsible physician who is sincerely interested in his patient’s health and comfort. His website has plenty of information including links to other sites that allow you to get a more objective viewpoint. There, you will also find a promise that he can find any other kind of doctor you might need. He understands expats have a hard time getting things done in Korea, and offered to help me out if I wanted. I’ve been here seven years, and all I really needed was a trustworthy dentist. I guess I’m good now. When everything was done, we looked at a bunch of before and after photos. Then, we chatted about his days back in Boston, his family, and how he misses applesauce. I was in a spectacularly better mood than I had been an hour before, and Ga-young seemed sad to see me go. Now, a few hours later, I’ve finished dinner. Nothing hurts. There are no holes, and for the first time in years I don’t have to check that back tooth to see if there’s any kimchi stuck in there.
SMart Dental: www.smart-dental.co.kr Email any questions to: askdrkim@gmail.com February 2011/GROOVE KOREA/17
hushu
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Patient-controlled analgesia (PCA) is a method of allowing a person to manage the pain after surgery on their own. With PCA, you are able to control the amount of pain medication merely by pushing a button whenever pain is experienced. When the button is pushed, you get a small dose of narcotic analgesic through your IV so that you can control the pain as you wish.
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An accurate diagnosis needs to be placed in order to have perfect, healthy teeth.We have the latest techniques for the best diagnosis and special patient care.
What do you consider first when you choose a dentist? Sanitation and Safety? Whether or not doctors are experienced? When it comes to choosing a dentist, there is definitely one thing that most people will think about first:The pain! That fear you have to deal with while sitting on the chair.Therefore, these days, the priority when it comes to choosing a dentist is whether you can be put under sleep anesthesia during the procedure. (Especially if you are not a Korean) Unlike in western countries, the sleep anesthesia procedure is not so common unless you have to have a big operation here in Korea. This is why there is not much information about Conscious Sedation Procedures. Now, there’s Hus’hu Dental Clinic, which is widely known in the expat community, with its great patient care and Conscious Sedation Dentistry system.
No more dental Anxiety. Hus’ hu Pain-Free Implant 3 Steps We understand that some people are not as comfortable as others in a dentist’s chair. At Hus’hu, we have a stunning pain free system for patients with dental anxiety who have been avoiding dentist appointments, especially for the higher pain level procedures such as wisdom tooth removal and implant surgery.
1. CompuDent System – Non-pain Anesthesia Most of the time, the pain from injection is caused because the anesthetic is fired in too quickly. The CompuDent System controls the flow rate of the anesthetic, which means the injection is guaranteed to be slow and steady. It is approved by the American Dental Association (ADA) and is widely used in the U.S.
2. Conscious (Sleep) Sedation Treatment At Hus’hu, we have sleep dentistry that’s called Sleep Sedation Treatment. It may be the greatest advancement ever made towards truly painfree and anxiety-free dentistry procedures. We use a special drug called Midazolam that will make you feel sleepy and drowsy, but you will have your own sense of personal space and you can continue to follow our directions. You’ll just enjoy a soothing mental and emotional “distance” from the goings on around you. As it was stated above, Midazolam will not make you unconscious, so it does not take too long for you to wake up. If you are put to sleep too deeply, we will give you Flunil to wake you up immediately. The drugs that are used for Sleep Sedation Treatment will be diluted and given to you very slowly so it can be easily adjusted to each patient’s needs and type. Also, it lowers the chances of side effects and rejections. We will monitor your blood pressure, pulse, ECG and oxygen saturation very closely during the procedure so that it can be safely completed.
18/GROOVE KOREA/february 2011
Hus’hu offers Pa-Reve 3D CT X-rays in its dental practice, which simplifies and automates the process of planning a dental prostheses and the production of a personalized prostheses. The PRF technique - remarkable new technology and a wonderful service we can offer to patients PRF stands for platelet rich fibrin and describes a process of using all-natural platelet gel from a patient’s body to stimulate bone and soft tissue growth for faster healing We are looking for people who would like to try our stunning implant procedure at Hus’hu. If you think you are a gifted writer or you have a special reason to have implant treatment done, please email your story with your contact info, picture and occupation at international@hus-hu.com. Please contact us only when you are planning to stay in Korea more than a year. The emails will be received until Feb. 15, 2011, and the selected person will be announced in the March issue of Groove.
February 2011/GROOVE KOREA/19
community
contest
An Irish Spirit in Eastern Motion By Patricia Jones special thanks to helen jones and tom coyner
2010 Best Blog in Korea — We Have a WiNner!
Eat your kimchi The votes are in, the tally has been meticulously recorded by our auditors and the people have spoken — at least 941 of them. First place, with a massive 383 votes and 40% of the vote are those wacky wonder twins Simon and Martina at Eat Your Kimchi. Hats off and a deep bow, you’re edgy, you’re hip and you’re clearly tuned-in as a valuable resource on the Web. Finishing in second is a man whose blog has been read at least once by anyone living in Korea who at one time in their lives used to cheer for the Jailblazers. RIP City to Seoul put together an impressive 176 votes to earn himself 100,000 won in food and drink vouchers from The Wolfhound. Taking home the bronze is that sly old dog Roboseyo. He’s active, he’s cunning, he’s sensitive and he’s passionate about Korea and the perceptions thereof. Follow him on Twitter or his blog to see what you were missing. Congrats, Rob, you’ve got yourself 50,000 won in authentic slabs of Memphis BBQ Ribs from our good buds at MKB. In fourth place, garnering 6.3% of the votes and narrowly edging out Claudia & Oliver’s Adventure is Korea, Suwon & Avalon. Congrats, you’ve earned the most valued and enviable prize of a few free drinks with the HiExpat team.
HiExpat.com
20/GROOVE KOREA/february 2011
Website: Eatyourkimchi.com Twitter: Eatyourkimchi.com/Twitter Facebook Fan Page: Eatyourkimchi.com/Facebook Eat Your Kimchi is a YouTube video blog run by Simon and Martina Stawski, a couple of High School teachers who came to Korea to teach, and found out their passion for making movies in the process. In the two and a half years since they’ve been in Korea, they’ve grown to be one of the most viewed and subscribed to video sites on YouTube Korea and have amassed over 55,000 followers in the process.
Check out Groove Next Month for a feature on Eat Your Kimchi
Spirituality. Not a word that pops up much over pints in Itaewon or Hongdae on a Saturday night. However, there is one Irish man for whom spirituality and Korea have become intertwined. Sean O’Conneely, from County Galway, has worked as a Columban priest in Korea for almost 30 years. After interviewing Sean I found myself reflecting less on what I have gotten out of my own Korean experience to date and more on what I have really put into it. These days a lot of Sean’s energy is taken up with both marriage and addiction counseling. However, I was curious to probe into his past. Patricia:When were you born? Sean: I was born in October, 1943. I was a war baby! P: When were you ordained a Columban priest? S: Easter Sunday, 1969. P: Why did you decide to become a Columban priest? S: It was part of the teenage culture in Ireland in the 1960s for young men to explore their vocation in the seminary for a year or two. Once I entered the seminary I seemed to grow into the vocation. Indeed, I consider myself still growing spiritually within the priesthood. P: How old were you when you came to Korea? S: I came to Korea in 1969. I was going on 26 years of age. P: What work did you do when you first arrived? S: After two years of language study I did parish work in Kwangju Diocese in a rural area of South Chola Province. Then I spent two years on Huksan Island. In those days it took five to six hours by boat to get to the island from Mokpo City. P: What were living conditions like for the people you worked with in those days? S: In Hampheong, my first parish, the people were mostly farmers, and many lived in thatched houses with no running water or indoor plumbing. On Huksan Island, in particular, there was a lot of poverty. There were no roads or cars on the island at the time and unemployment was widespread. My pastor, Sean Russell, managed to obtain old generators from the U.S. Army. A few months before I arrived he set them up to generate electricity for the main villages. He also set up a badly needed boat building and boat repair center. At that time we ran the only middle school for the islands. People had to go to the mainland if they wanted a high school education. P: What problems did people face at that time? S: In many of the cities there were shanty towns full of migrants from the countryside. Many of these people squatted in very poor housing. Drinking, gambling and family violence were common in these areas. P: What was the political situation like when you first came to Korea? S: President Park Chung-hee had taken over in a coup d’état in 1961. He ruled as dictator until he was assassinated in 1979. Chun Tu-hwan then took over in December, 1979, in another coup d’état and ruled, also as a dictator, until 1988. There was no freedom of speech at that time and those who challenged power were severely dealt with. Socalled “national security” and “anti-communism” were the catch phrases of the day. Of course, at the same time, the economic and industrial foundations for the Korea we know today were being laid. P: Has the Church grown in membership in the time you’ve been here? S: The Catholic Church, because of the persecution it endured in the late 18th and 19th centuries, was a poor, fearful and very insular church
until the end of the Korean War. After the Korean War the Church was at the forefront in distributing aid. Many people joined the Church out of gratitude. Since the 1960s a steady stream of people has continued to join, especially in the cities. In the past many people turned to the Church because it gave them a sense of belonging in their new lives in the city. The Catholic Church was also very active during the civil rights movement in the 1970s and 1980s. Many members of the Church community; priests, nuns, workers and students alike, were tortured and went to jail for their efforts. In the 1980s the streets were on fire with passion for change, civil rights and democracy. In fact, all the churches were united and at the forefront of the movement. Our involvement in the civil rights movement led to an increase in Catholic Church membership. Meanwhile, the 150-year anniversary celebration of Myeongdong Cathedral and the Pope’s visit in 1984 culminated in the doubling of our membership. P: Do you think Koreans were more spiritual in the past than nowadays? S: It’s hard to say. Certainly people were less individualistic and less materialistic. But I have always found the Korean people to be very generous. P: How has your own spirituality grown through your work over the years? S: I think and hope it has grown. This question would take a book to answer. I was an innocent greenhorn when I came to Korea, but my life experiences and my ministry have helped me to grow. In the late 1970s and 1980s, being involved in the democracy and civil rights movements alongside dedicated people gave me more energy and a wider relationship with God and others. However, I became overly involved in my work, the social issues of the time, and unfortunately, the Korean drinking scene. In the early 1990s I decided I needed some time away from Korea. I went to the U.S. to receive treatment for alcohol addiction. My recovery has been a marvelous time of work, relationships and inner spiritual growth. I got involved in the Centering Prayer Movement which has brought me more inner peace and freedom than I have ever had. I spent 13 years in Chicago before returning to Korea in 2005. P: What advice do you have for me and any other “lost sheep” who might flock to Itaewon and Hongdae on the weekend? S: A few thoughts come to mind. Living away from home can be difficult, so it’s important to have a few close friends around for support. I met a few guys over the Christmas period who were very lonely. I hope Itaewon and the drinking scene are not the only outlets for relaxation that people have. There are beautiful places to visit in this country. Make sure to visit them while here. Mountain tracking is a great pursuit in Korea. Also, I don’t want to sound like your Mom, but don’t forget your spiritual practice. You are the new ambassadors in Korea from the West. The Koreans have high expectations of you spiritually, culturally and personally. You have a great chance to influence people for the good. P: If a foreigner were interested in doing voluntary work, what advice would you give them? S: A few guys last year helped Sister Miriam of the Columban Sisters fixing and painting her Center for the Sick. If people are willing to work in China, our members in Hong Kong run a program called AITECH.They are looking for volunteer teachers who will give a silent Christian witness with their lives while teaching in China. We also run a lay missionary program out of Ireland/England. If anyone is interested in these projects they can contact me. Meanwhile, closer to home, I’m always looking for Irish dancing volunteers! You don’t need to be Michael Flatley! We regularly get a group of people together to drink tea, eat brown bread and practice Irish dancing with a view to performing on our Irish festival days here in Seoul. Come along! Fáilte Isteach! 어서오십시오!
Contact Sean Conneely at scssc@hotmail.com February 2011/GROOVE KOREA/21
community
Dear Michelle: Banking Advice for Foreigners in Korea
(Submit your banking questions to farnsworth@shinhan.com) Dear Michelle, Do Korean banks offer short-term interest bearing accounts like CDs or other options for foreigners? I feel like my money is just sitting there — Saving For a Not-So-Rainy Day
The biggest department store in the world By Chris Backe Assume for a second that you enjoy big malls, or you enjoy meandering aimlessly for an entire day. Bigger than the Mall of America and the Macy’s flagship store in New York, the Shinsegae Centum City behemoth in the port city of Busan features almost every franchise Korea offers. Without needing to step outdoors, one has access to restaurants, a gym, a spa, a cinema, an ice rink, an art gallery, and a golf driving range. Oh yes, and hundreds of stores. With 509,810 square meters (that’s 5.49 million square feet) worth of floor area and 293,904 square meters of store area, there’s more room under this one roof than 2,355 average-sized American houses. To say “there’s a lot to see” seems a huge understatement. As the Lady in Red and I walked around, the hubbub seemed contained -- no extravagant sales, no main stage attraction and a surprising number of stores all selling the same thing. The point of this behemoth seems less focused on shopping and more on meandering. Between sharp corners and casual curves rest enough overpriced clothing stores to serve an army and enough walking space to make even professional mall-walkers begin to limp.There isn’t any one place to look out and see it all, which seems the only downer; looking up, however, is easy around the escalators. But does mass commercialism make this a place to spend a day? If you’ve enjoyed exploring the COEX in Seoul, then this Shinsegae is right up your alley. Go up to the 5th floor for a Kyobo bookstore, 6th floor for the Shinsegae Gallery, 7th floor to catch a movie, the 9th
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floor for a cold Sky Park, or stay on the 1st floor for a peek Ease to arrive: around the threestory Spa Land. And of course, the shops -- most are the same brands you might Foreigner-friendly: find elsewhere, just more of them in the same spot. And then there’s The Record -- perConvenience facilities: haps the reason this place was constructed in the first place. That world record was awardWorth the visit: ed on June 26, 2009 -- and they’re quite happy about it. It’s a bit challenging to get a photo op with a piece of paper in a clear plastic cube however. Sure, there are plenty of other places to see around Busan -- Haeundae Beach, Beomeosa temple, Busan tower, Geumgang Park -- but until the weather warms up, this is just as entertaining a place to explore. People-watch if you like, see and be seen, or just gawk at the prices.
Ratings (out of 5 taeguks):
Directions to Shinsegae Department Store: Take line 2 of the Busan subway system to the Centum City subway station. Shinsegae is connected to the subway station -- just follow the signs. Free admission; department store open until 8 p.m. (9 p.m. on weekends and holidays), other attractions open even later.
Dear Saving For a Not-So-Rainy Day, In Korea, a savings account is not the best place to actually save money; the interest rates are too low. Savings accounts are actually just checking accounts without the checks. If you really want your money to work for you, instead of just sitting there, you have several more attractive savings options. When choosing the best option for you, you must consider your personal appetite for risk and the length of time you would like to keep your money deposited/invested. Lower-risk (fixed interest rate) options: If you are risk-averse or only have funds available to deposit for a limited amount of time, you may want to invest in products with a fixed interest rate that are KDIC Insured, meaning your money is guaranteed by the Korea Deposit Insurance Corporation under the Depositor Protection Act for up to and including 50 million won, including principal and interest, per person, per bank. 1. Time Deposit: We recommend a time deposit if you have a lump sum to deposit and a specific amount of time before you will need to withdraw it. Time deposits can range from 1 month to 5 years. You can cancel at any time and it is KDIC insured. 2. Installment Account: An installment account is recommended if you would like to put a little away each month.You can earn a fixed interest rate on regular (or even irregular) deposits over a period of time. You can even have the deposit automatically withdrawn from your account each month, which is a great way to save. You can cancel at anytime and it is KDIC insured. 3. Repurchase Agreement (RP): An RP is a type of short-term bond that is issued by financial institutions when they need extra cash. It is always a good idea to ask if there is an RP being offered, because the interest rate is usually higher than what you could earn on a time deposit.The bank promises to repurchase the bond at a certain interest rate on the maturity date. Although it is possible to cancel an RP before maturity, it is not KDIC insured. 4. Certificate of Deposit (CD): A CD is another type of short-term investment product. Terms can range from anywhere between 1 month and 1 year. Currently, the interest rates are lower for CDs than for time deposits, so it isn’t a good time to buy a CD – but this could change, so ask your teller. It is impossible to cancel a CD before maturity, and it is not KDIC insured. 5. Commercial Paper (CP).A financial institution (like a securities or asset management company) issues a CP on behalf of a company that is trying to raise extra cash. A bank then purchases that CP and resells it to you – the investor. The interest rate you will receive depends on the rating of the company. A higher rating means a lower interest rate, but even then interest rates are usually higher than the rates you could get on a time deposit because it is, by nature, a riskier type of investment. A CP is only available when a company decides to offer them, so ask your teller about availability. It is impossible to cancel a CP before maturity and it is not KDIC insured. Higher-risk (floating interest rate) options: If you are even less risk-averse, you may be interested in investment products with a floating interest rate.These options may include: domestic and foreign mutual funds, money market funds, corporate bonds, trusts, commodities, equity-linked products, or investing directly in stocks of companies listed on the Korean stock market. We will have to delve deeper into these higher-risk options another day. Happy Valentine’s Day,
“Dear Michelle: Banking Advice for Foreigners in Korea” is a monthly column written by Michelle Farnsworth. Michelle is an eight-year resident of Korea who is currently the Foreign Client Relationship Manager at the Shinhan Bank Seoul Global Center – the only bank branch in Korea that is exclusively dedicated to serving foreigners and foreign companies. Please visit the “Shinhan Bank Seoul Global Center” on Facebook for more information. Also, please note that the banking information provided in this column is based on Shinhan Bank policies and may not be applicable to all banks in Korea.
February 2011/GROOVE KOREA/23
community
Medical & Health INFO Pediatrics Serim Pediatrics 02-544-0234 Apgujung, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Subway line #3. Apgujung stn. Exit 4
Yeosu expats reach out BY GROOVE STAFF The expat community in Yeosu is a strong one, where everyone knows everyone else one way or another. It’s also a generous one. Every second Saturday of the month, expats visit the Yeosu Orphanage. Sixty-three kids, ranging from infants up to college-age, call the orphanage home. Most of the kids at Yeosu Orphanage actually have families, who can’t take care of them for various reasons. The expat community serves as a surrogate family. Besides the official visits, some expats visit the kids on a regular basis. Some of their Korean co-workers are not even aware of the orphanage and are surprised when they hear about the expats volunteering. The kids at the orphanage enjoy laughing with the foreigners, reading stories and snacking on candy. The older kids play sports. To raise money for the orphanage, a party was organized recently at 7 Club, a popular expat bar. The cover charge, raffles and even cuts from the drinks and food all went toward raising money. A total of 1.3 million won was raised. The money was put to good use – it came at a good time, as the kids needed winter coats and extra blankets for the cold. Infants got supplies too. Also, to make the Christmas period even sweeter, another event was organised on Dec. 18. Attendees brought gifts for the children.
Victory, Valentine, Vagina: Seoul does V-Day, 2011 by Cath Witten Boyd with thanks to sue-anna jaikaran V-day is a global movement to stop violence toward women. A group of volunteers in Seoul is joining the campaign and hosting several events targeted at increasing awareness and raising funds. V-Day is a “fierce, wild, unstoppable movement and community,” according to its website. Its mission is to increase awareness, raise funds and revitalize the spirit of existing anti-violence organizations. It is the intention of V-Day to generate broader attention for the fight to stop violence against women and girls including rape, battery, incest, genital mutilation and sex slavery. Women should be spending their lives creating and thriving, not surviving and recovering, the website says. Unfortunately for many women, survival is the only choice. “According to the United Nations, one in every three women on the planet will be physically or sexually abused in her lifetime,” the website says. “Although sources of violence may seem diverse, women’s responses sound tragically similar. Besides the pain and strength you will hear in their survival stories, the themes that resound across cultures and geographies are of the indifference of authorities, the familial instinct of denial, and the lack of public outrage about the violence that millions of women experience every day.” Eve Ensler, activist and playwright, founded V-Day on Valentines Day in 1998, with a benefit performance of her groundbreaking play “The Vagina Monologues.” Every year in February, March and April, Ensler allows groups around the world to produce a performance of the play, as well as other works created by V-Day, and use the proceeds for local individual projects and programs that work to end violence against women and girls, such as shelters and rape crisis centers. A team of volunteers led by Kathryn Bokyung Park and Bre-Shae Pittman will be hosting a series of events in Seoul throughout February, March and April. On Feb. 26, from 9 p.m. to 1 a.m.,V-Day Seoul will host a silent auction featuring art pieces depicting the artists’ own ‘vagina monologues’ at “The Alley,” a new gallery and restaurant in Market Alley, Itaewon. On March 12, from 6 p.m. to 10 p.m., there will be a burlesque themed event featuring Frills and Thrills Burlesque Revue at Naked Bar and Grill in Hongdae. The even will also include a date auction and specialty drinks. The campaign will cumulate with the annual benefit performance of the Vagina Monologues on April 16 and 17. Proceeds from the event will be donated to the Korean Unwed Mothers & Families Association, which was created to support single mothers. In Korean society there is a misconception that unwed mothers are unethical and promiscuous. Unwed mothers are stigmatized and discriminated against. They are often disowned by their families and lack financial and emotional support systems. KUMFA wants their voices heard. They want their children to grow up without being ostracized. The organization is located in Seoul, but recently lost its office space, so it’s operating out of one of the members’ basements. KUMFA has no funding at all, the primary reason why V-Day Seoul chose the organization as the recipient of the 2011 fundraising efforts.
Seran Family Medicine Clinic 02-2642-5975 Mok-dong, Yangcheon-gu, Seoul Subway line #5. Omokgyo stn. Exit 2.
Cardiology / Heart Specialist Dr.Simon Lee Heart Clinic 02-543-0072 Chungdam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul
Ophthalmologist BS Eye Center 02-519-8013 Gangnam Station, Seoul Gangnam stn. Exit 5 Seer & Partner Eye Institute 02-511-0567 Apgujung, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Dream Eye Center Myeong-dong Center 02-779-7888 Gangnam stn. Center 02-554-8400
Obstetrics Cheil Women’s Healthcare Center 02-2000-7119 (Emergency Room) 02-2000-7062 Mukjeong-dong, Jung-gu, Seoul CHA hospital 02-3468-3000 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Miz Medi Hospital 02-3467-3741 Daechi-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul
Dermatologists TengTeng Skin Clinic 02-337-4066 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Subway line #3, Sinsa stn. Exit 2 Hushu Skin Clinic 02-519-8013 Apgujung, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Subway line #3, Apgujung stn. Exit 3
Nova Skin Clinic 02-563-7977 Gangnam Stn. Subway line #2, Gangnam stn. Exit 8
Dentists Yonsei Miplus Dental Clinic Hongdae Clinic 02-3141-0028 Sinsa-dong Clinic 02-3141-0028 SMart Dental Clinic 02-517-6278 Apgujung, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Subway line#3, Apgujung stn. Exit 4 UpennIvy Dental Clinic 02-797-7784 Ichon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Hushu Dental Clinic 02-519-8013
Chiropractors Create Wellness Center 02-798-1446 Itaewon, Seoul SKY Wellness Center 02-749-4849 Itaewon, Seoul
Oriental Medicine Jaseng Hospital of Oriental Medicine 02-3218-2167 Apgujung, Gangnam-gu, Seoul INI Oriental Medicine 02-824-0075 Sangdo-dong, Dongjak-gu, Seoul Subway line #7, Soongsil Univ. stn. Exit 3
massage Healing Hands 010-3158-5572 / 02-2071-8090 Itaewon, Seoul
Ophthalmologist Samsung Medical Center 02-3410-0200 / 02-3410-0226 Emergency 02-3410-2060 Ilwon-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Yonsei University Severance Hospital 02-2228-5800 / 010-9948-0983 Yonsei Univ., Seoul Asan Medical Center 02-3010-5001 Poongnap-dong, Songpa-gu
For more information on the V-Day Seoul events, see the web page at http://vdayseoul.com or their Facebook page, V-Day: The Vagina Monologues (SEOUL, KOREA). 24/GROOVE KOREA/february 2011
February 2011/GROOVE KOREA/25
arts & entertainment
The Tremors
By Justin Devvers | photos by andrew leonard An Irishman, a U.S. soldier and a retired professional baseball pitcher walked into a bar. It sounds like the beginning of a joke, but it certainly is not. This is the story of one of Seoul’s finest punk rock bands; The Tremors. As a three-piece band that has matured over the years, The Tremors — Matt Phallic on guitar and vocals, Mike Mayhem on drums, and Gavin on bass and vocals—have established themselves as standouts in the Seoul live music scene. The Tremors have played countless shows in Seoul at venues in Itaewon and Hongdae, as well as in Busan, Daejeon, and Cheongju. They were twice finalists in the prestigious Stompers Battle of the Bands and in December of 2010, the boys released their 8-song EP “Loving you, Loathing You” at Club DGBD in true Do-ItYourself spirit: by themselves. However, the Tremors had humble beginnings. They were founded in 2006 by Matt Phallic, who was in Korea playing professional baseball for the Doosan Bears, as an outlet for his musical ambitions in his infrequent spare time. Matt, along with local expat musicians John Redmond on bass and Dwayne Robertson on drums, comprised the original Tremors lineup. “Because of difficult schedules, that line up didn’t get out and play much. We were more like friends getting together to jam,” says Matt. After his retirement from baseball, the desire to make the Tremors a more frequent and serious endeavor became a reality. By 2009, Matt had recruited Mike Mayhem for drum duties. Later that same year, Gavin, an English teacher, also joined on bass and vocals and the new lineup was complete. Mike, who has played in various U.S. hardcore and punk bands such as Warzone, Step2far, and Babaloo, a punk-mambo band, was an instant fit. When Gavin joined in late 2009, the lineup was solidified and The Tremors became an active gigging and songwriting group. Tempered by years of playing in psychedelic punk rock bands like the Seeping Ass and Wastelife in Ireland, and Bint Eastwood in Seoul, Gavin brings thunderous bass lines, quality songwriting, and vocal experience to the already proficient group. With Matt and Gavin both writing songs and sharing vocal duties, The Tremors have increased their set list greatly while maximizing their abilities.“When I joined the band, we had about 5 songs in total,” states Mike,
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“We played about seven songs the first time we played live.” Currently, the band has amassed over 25 original songs and a deep repertoire of classic yet obscure punk cover songs. The constant gigging and creative growth spurt has proven that the Tremors have a tremendous work ethic coupled with a great songwriting formula. Matt says, “We shoot for simple riffs combined with honest, aggressive lyrics.” With song titles like “My Enemies” and “Loving you, Loathing You,” Mike explains, “Our music is raw and full of real life struggles that most people can identify with.” Taking influence from older 70s and 80s punk rock bands, the band is known to also crank out a few choice covers. It wouldn’t be uncommon to think you heard Circle Jerks, Undertones, or Stiff Little Fingers at a Tremors show. “Our largest influences are from early punk albums,” says Gavin. Good times and being active in the local scene motivates the band to do what they do. The love of making and playing music has been with each member for a very long time. Gavin has played in bands since he first learned to play bass. Mike says, “Playing music gives me meaning and I feel most alive when I’m behind the drums playing my heart out and sweating so much it drips in my eyes.” Matt, who has always had an interest in writing and performing music, states, “Music is like an unstoppable force in my life that I can’t escape, nor do I want to.” The Tremors would like to help make the Seoul punk rock scene become less divided. While every music scene has problems, they agree that Seoul has a dynamic and promising punk scene. “I am seeing more young Korean punk bands sprouting up from the gutter and piss alleys of Seoul, which is fantastic,” asserts Matt in reference to the glut of Korean punk bands in the Hongdae scene. Mike adds, “Hopefully we can branch out and play in different venues and bridge the gap between Korean and expat punk bands.” Blending the expat and Korean scene is an ideal goal for the band that regularly invites Korean bands to play with them.With talks of starting a record label and producing a Seoul compilation CD, the gap may be bridged sooner rather than later. As for the Tremors, they expect to attain worldwide distribution for their EP, do another couple of tours of the Korean Peninsula, hit the studio, and release another recording this year.Add to that, writing more songs and playing more Seoul gigs, and it’s clear that they plan to be active and stay busy well into the far future. From their lowly beginnings to now, the Tremors have certainly built up a full stream of momentum that they intend to carry through 2011 and beyond.
More information: www.myspace.com/TheTremorsSC February 2011/GROOVE KOREA/27
arts & entertainment
View of Xiaohe Cemetery, Loulan, Xinjiang Uyghur Autonomous Region, China, 2,000-1,000 B.C. Model of Cave No. 17, Mogao Caves, Dunhuang, Gansu Province, China, 9th Century
Wang-ocheonchukguk Jeon, Mogao Caves, Dunhuang, Gansu Province, China, 8th Century
Hawk head ornament, Yongdeng, Ningxia Hui Autonomous Region, China, 5th-3rd Centurey B.C.
NATIONAL MUSEUM OF KOREA Title: The Silk Road and Dunhuang Dates: Dec. 18, 2010-Apr. 3, 2011 Items: Approx. 220 pieces
Eastern Roman gold piece, Guyuan, Ningxia Hui Autonomous Region, China, 6th Century
Hyecho’s Wang-ocheonchukguk Jeon Comes to Korea: The Silk Road and Dunhuang BY GROOVE STAFF The National Museum of Korea, under the leadership of director Choe Kwang-shik, is holding the special exhibition The Silk Road and Dunhuang from Dec. 18, 2010, to Apr. 3, 2011. Kicking off with an opening ceremony on Dec. 17, the exhibition will feature some 220 relics from ten museums in China’s Xinjiang Uyghur and Ningxia Hui Autonomous Regions and Gansu Province, along with Hyecho’s Wang-ocheonchukguk Jeon (Record of a Journey to the Five Indian Kingdoms), currently housed at the National Library of France. The pieces on loan from China are to arrive in Korea in three shipments between Tuesday, Dec. 7, and Thursday, Dec. 9, while the Wangocheonchukguk Jeon, on loan from France, is scheduled to arrive on the afternoon of Tuesday, Dec. 14. This last piece is of particular significance in that it is making its way onto Korean soil for the very first time, a full 1,283 years after it was first written by Hyecho in 727. The Silk Road was a trade route connecting Asia and Europe, serving as a vital link between Eastern and Western civilizations. Of the three main trunk lines of the Silk Road, traveling across the plains, by oases, and by sea, this exhibition focuses on the route that passed through various oases in Central Asia. Subtitled “A Trip Through the Western Region with Hyecho,” the
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exhibition follows the road traveled by the Buddhist monk in the 8th century along the Silk Road east of the Pamir Plateau. The format consists of four main sections. The first section, “Cities along the Silk Road,” introduces oases such as Kashgar, Kucha, and Turfan on the Northern Route; Hotan and Loulan on the Southern Route; and Urumqi on the Tian Shan Northern Silk Road. Among the items on display, a gold belt clasp unearthed in Karashar (Ill. 1) features what appears to be one large dragon and seven small dragons frolicking on a cloud, with turquoise inlaid at various points on the dragons’ bodies. The dragon forms are created through the welding of very thin gold threads and interspersed with gold bead embellishments. This item is of particular interest because a similar one was discovered in Pyongyang (Ill. 2). The second section, “Life and Culture in the Silk Road,” looks at oasis cities on the Southern Route, south of the Taklamakan Desert, including Hotan, Niya, and Loulan, and at the lives and culture of people who lived in Silk Road regions such as the Western Region and Tian Shan Northern Silk Roads. In particular, this section shows evidence that people of European extraction inhabited this region around 4,000 years ago, cultivating wheat and other crops and possessing their own distinctive culture, as indicated by the 2002 discovery of the Xiaohe Cemetery (Ill. 3) in Loulan. The third section,“Dunhuang and Wang-ocheonchukguk Jeon,” provides an account of the travels of Hyecho, with a focus on the caves and murals of Dunhuang, where the Wang-ocheonchukguk Jeon was discovered, and on the content of the Wang-ocheonchukguk Jeon itself. Dunhuang enjoyed prosperity as the westernmost extent of Chinese territory and gateway to the Western Region, and this section introduces 16 relics and 20 reproductions (including 17 murals) from its Mogao Caves. The exhibition features two complete models of Dunhuang Caves No. 17 and No. 275, allowing visitors to experience the grandeur and dazzling artistry of the Mogao Caves as if they were actually there. In particular, Cave No. 17 (Ill. 4) is noted as
the “Manuscript Cave” where not only the Wang-ocheonchukguk Jeon (Ill. 5) but also a large number of other Dunhuang documents were discovered, making it a site of great significance in the establishment of Dunhuang Studies. On display for the general public for the first time in history, the Wang-ocheonchukguk Jeon is the first overseas travel journal written by a Korean and is rated as one of the best travel journals in the world. It is of tremendous value as the only record in the world providing information about the politics, culture, economy, and customs of 8th century India and Central Asia. The fourth section, “Route Connects to the East,” presents relics from Gansu and Ningxia, the Chinese regions connecting between Dunhuang and Xian, as well as items from Gyeongju. This region possesses a number of characteristics that are rooted in Chinese culture yet have a distinctive character strongly redolent of the traditions of nomadic peoples such as the Xiongnu. While the bronze guard of honor (Ill. 6) represents Chinese tradition, the hawk head ornament (Ill. 7) was popular among the Xiongnu and other nomadic tribes. An Eastern Roman gold piece (Ill. 8) discovered in Ningxia, north of Gansu Province, shows that active Silk Road trade between East and West was taking place in this region as well. With its focus on the Wang-ocheonchukguk Jeon and relics recently unearthed in the Chinese Silk Road region, this is the first Silk Road exhibition to take place in South Korea.The NMK looks forward to this exhibition serving as an opportunity for visitors to gain a broader perspective on overseas civilizations.
The Silk Road was a trade route connecting Asia and Europe, serving as a vital link between Eastern and Western civilizations.
Bronze Guard of Honor, Wuwei, Gansu Province, China, 3rd Century B.C.--A.D. 3rd Century
Gold belt clasp, Karashar, Xinjiang Uyghur Autonomous Region, China, 1st-2nd Century
For further enquiries on this exhibition: 1666-4252 / www.silkroad2010.com For more details on press enquiries please contact Sangmi Rhee 02-749-0845~7 (Silk Road and Dunhuang Exhibition Team).
Gold belt clasp, Pyongyang, Korea, 1st Century February 2011/GROOVE KOREA/29
arts & entertainment
February 10
No Strings Attached
Natalie Portman, Ashton Kutcher
127 Hours
James Franco
Tangled
Mandy Moore, Zachary Levi
February 17
The Hole in the Wall Where Music Plays Club Bbang By Emma Kalka
Name: Bbang Directions: From Hongdae main gate (across the street from the park), catch the Green 7011 bus, go one stop and get off at Sanwoolim Theater (산울림소극장). Cross the street and go straight down the side street about half a block. Bbang is on the right, across the street from Coffee Prince (커피프린스). Hours: Wednesday-Sunday 7:40 to 10:15 p.m.
Seoul is full of little hole-in-the-wall places. Small restaurants, cafes and shops that are often overlooked, but are still quality joints. However, if you take the time to listen while walking down a small street in between Sinchon Rotary and Hongik University, you might find something more than just fancy coffee shops and clothing stores. Near a flower shop and across the street from Coffee Prince, there is a tiny red sign that reads simply “Bbang.” From the doorway next to the sign there will almost always be music wafting up the stairs from the basement. Bbang is where music lovers go to get away from the flashing lights and general craziness found at most large and popular live clubs. Instead of drunken dancing, bad pick-up lines and a haze of cigarette smoke, the audience gets a relaxed atmosphere and a chance to just enjoy good music while sipping a beer or simple cocktail. It is truly a diamond-in-the-rough, and one of the longest running live venues in the Sinchon-Hongdae area. Bbang opened in 1994 as a live club in addition to an art and movie exhibition hall. It became primarily a music hall in 1998, when owner Kim Young-deung took it over from a group of his school friends.
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He said it was first and foremost a place where people could just relax and hang out. What drew his interest was the fact that Bbang was different than the other venues. “Bbang goes away from the trend,” he said. “Back in the 90s when punk and rock were popular [in Korea], we had folk and British rock.” Kim says that even today, Bbang tries to give the audience something a little bit different, showcasing musicians that play everything from modern rock to punk to mood music. Kim said he is very selective about the bands he chooses, and judging from their success at other live clubs in the area, he must be doing something right. “They always have good bands,” said Yoon Kyung-joo, a music-lover that has been going to Bbang regularly for four years. “I’ve met so many good people here, and I come here because the good bands are here.” Bbang is seen as a type of training area, since most of the bands are often rookies just starting out, however, this definitely doesn’t detract from the quality of music; especially considering that bands like Phonebooth, Pink Elephant, Pavlov and even Galaxy Express have graced its stage.While it’s true that a number of the bands move on to play at bigger venues that hold larger audiences, some come back to where they got their start.Also, every two or three years, the club puts out a compilation album with some of its more popular bands. So, get away from the beaten path and try something new. Bbang is definitely one of Hongdae’s hidden secrets and definitely one worth discovering.
The Mechanic
Jason Statham, Ben Foster
Remember Me
Robert Pattinson, Emilie de Ravin
The Way Back
Ed Harris, Jim Sturgess, Colin Farrell
February 24 Black Swan
Natalie Portman, Mila Kunis
Unknown
Liam Neeson, Diane Kruger
GROOVe with seoulvibes
itself inspires me. If I am to choose one artist, it is Trente Moller. His music goes beyond trend and technology — Mang Esilo
How do your live sets differ from you production tracks?
the next level “It is our aim to deliver high quality, culturally distinctive, artistic dance music both nationally and internationally. We want our style and sound to be a good model for emerging artists in Asia. We aim to expose our sound to the world and hope to foster collaborations and dialogue between musicians.” — East Collective Intermedia Korea
On stage, we emphasize our mixing abilities. Everything in front of us is designed to send our music to the crowd. These tools allow for us to convey the sound we want people to hear. We also try to incorporate some live instruments on occasion.We focus on our sets not on ourselves.
Where is your favorite club in Korea? How would you define techno music?
The primitive and endless repetition of sound makes techno music.We believe it is a rhythmic abstraction of music. It is a feeling of expectancy when technology meets the future.
It is definitely Club Eden. The club has only been around for two years but has brought some of our favorite artists.We never could have imagined seeing Tiefschwarz, Reset Robot, Coyu, and Steve Lawler. The club also supports local talent
Who is East Collective?
DJ Hell and Tiefschwarz sets were our favorites.We felt like the whole space, crowd, lighting, visuals, sound and DJs were all synchronized as one. It was a mind blowing experience and an awakening for us. We realized afterwards that we needed to bring ECI to the next level.
Where do you draw your inspirations from and whom?
Once a year, I fly over the Rocky Mountains and drive the endless prairies of Canada. That inspires me the most. It separates me from the material world and helps me to understand the value of life. Musically, I am still inspired by Richie Hawtin aka Plastikman — Unjin The industry is moving so fast so it is hard to say. Perhaps, the movement of the industry
Producing your own tracks definitely helps your DJ career but it is not an essential element to DJing. It really depends on where your heart is. These days, people seem to devalue DJs with no tracks and many famous producers perform terrible sets, however they are still considered good based on their production. We believe mixing is an art form and a well mixed set is better than a well made track. DJs must learn to mix and create a set that has purpose.
How important is it to be signed with Supermodified Agency?
We are not a commercial act in the sense of the present mainstream so it is important to be represented by an agency that respects our sound and style. Supermodified has such a great history and future so having its support is essential to our success. It is an honor to be listed on their international roster.
It is very important to remember that there is no certain way to become a good DJ or producer. For us that is the most interesting part of creating art. Don’t be afraid of using your own creativity.
When did you form East Collective? Why?
Who were the best artists you witnessed at the WMC in 2010?
Do you feel that DJs must produce or perish?
What advice do you have for aspiring DJs or producers?
East Collective is a collaboration of two sound experimentalists, Unjin & Mang Esilo. It’s the future sound of dance music that we have envisioned.
The name East Collective is originally taken from our label ECI Korea. We used the name for the Miller Fresh M Competition which was held to select local talent to attend the Winter Music Conference in 2010. Our decision to work as a team was a success as we won the competition and represented Korea in Miami.
funds and grant programs. Korea prides itself on its technology and this music is technology.
What can we expect from East Collective in 2011?
and allows them to play their genre or style without restriction. The crowds are well educated and the sound system is stable. Last year we had some exceptional shows at Eden.
What are the drawbacks of being an artist in Korea?
Our second album will be out this summer and we will be going on a European tour. Our label ECI Korea has been working tirelessly on establishing an Asian network amongst DJs and producers. Developing this network is one of our main priorities. Together with other ECI artists we will be touring China and Japan and also bringing talented techno DJs from other Asian countries to Korea.
In Korea, to become a successful artist, it seems like you need to have more business skills than artistic skills. It is getting worse because the scene is more influenced by money. We often see many talented but innocent artists have no place to perform. Profits before music make it very frustrating to be part of this industry.
How can the scene improve?
Festivals like the World DJ Festival and Global Gathering helped improve the scene in many aspects. Artists need to provide quality electronic music to their listeners. Hopefully, we will have more government support in the way of artist
East Collective Intermedia represents a vision and model for producers in any locale. As artists, they are cutting edge, and as a label ECI is redefining electronic music in Asia We have yet to see anyone else with such determination and foresight. This idealism warrants nothing but our respect. This is a column dedicated to electronic music in Korea. Our aim is to give Groove Korea readers: interviews and updates on what is happening on the peninsula. Feel free to contact the links below for information on clubs, DJs, or events! seoulvibes@gmail.com | www.myspace.com/seoulvibes | www.soundcloud.com/seoulvibes
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ASIA
February 2011/GROOVE KOREA/33
arts & entertainment
music gizmos By Lance Reegan-Diehl
Recording artist & music industry specialist
The Artec Vintage Phaser
Releasing Emotion One Stroke at a Time by Daniel Vorderstrasse Since growing up in Soviet-controlled Armenia, one Seoul painter has strived to capture her world on canvas. The painter, Lilit Soelter, is showing her work at the casAntonio gallery in Seoul. Her exhibition of everyday-emotions-inspired paintings will be shown until February 13. Soelter was immersed in the art world from birth. Her parents were architects and a part of the art scene in their hometown of Vanadzor.Trips to Armenia’s countryside were regular. She was taught to transfer the images of churches and nature from the mind to the canvas. She received formal training at the Fine Arts School of Vanadzor. Hard times fell upon Armenia with the collapse of the Soviet Union. Around the same time, the 1988 Spitak earthquake devastated the country. Her father’s work relocated the family to Georgia, but soon after his passing left the mother with a newborn son and two daughters. As the eldest child at 12 years old, helped her mother maintain stability by selling sketches to a local newspaper. In 1997, she left the art world and became an English teacher. During the following years, she met her husband, Goeran, and traveled across Europe, eventually settling in Warsaw. The city’s bleak winter imagery brought forth a range of emotions from the artist. Picking up the brush for the first time in years led to an undiscovered jubilance. Back on the art track, she moved to Bangkok to work as an interior designer, and then to Seoul. The collection of work on display at casAntonio stems from the emotions people succumb to everyday. She uses a variety of materials to create the pieces, but enjoys working with acrylics because of its ease.
The phaser is originally a modulation device from the 1970s back in the last century.The first units had only one control knob on them as well as an on/off switch. The control was simply to change the speed to allow musicians to sync up their playing with faster or slower wave modulation. The actual sound of a phaser has not changed much. However, the usage and the ways to control it have. Looking at the Artec Vintage Phaser there is a noticeable difference in controls. Three knobs are implemented on this pedal.To start off, the pedal has a negative tip 9-volt power source, with a 9 volt battery compartment. The footswitch is true bypass, based on a circuit design; so it does not have a 9-pin switch installed. Sometimes there are benefits to this configuration, however, bench testing shows no visible or audio signs of signal change when placed in or out of the signal chain. Input and output jacks for the instrument are place to the sides. The controls on the Artec Vintage Phaser have a certain cool factor to them. Not only is there adjustment for speed and depth, there is also an additional RESO control. The speed is adjustable to vary how the phase wave flows when you play and the effect is engaged. The depth gives you control over how wide or shallow that phase is. A very wide depth can make phasing sound like a rubber band is being applied to your sound. Sometimes this is a good thing.The addition of the reso control gives the third dimension to this phaser. There is an almost lifelike physical movement that happens sonically when you increase the resonance on the unit. In addition from low to high reso, you notice the amplifier gets a bit more drive to it, so in you are getting a pleasingly harsh bite to your sound just by using the reso control. Overall, the Artec Vintage Phaser is a very durable unit with cast metal construction. The footswitch and control knobs are placed in accessible positions, and it fits in with other pedals very nicely on a tradition pedal board layout.This unit is very clean, and quiet whether on or off in the instrument signal chain. The Artec Vintage Phaser has an MSRP value of $130 and retails for around $100. Pricing varies from dealer to dealer and country to country. More information is available if you search for “The Artec Vintage Phaser” online. At the time of this writing the Artec site is undergoing a change. So this pedal might be a bit hard to locate, but it would be a great addition to your collection.
Monthly Reviews and music advice are provided by - Lance Reegan-Diehl. Recording Artist, Producer, and Music Industry Specialist. www.LRDMusic.com He has performed with BOA, Tony Ahn, Ricky Martin, and at Major Music Trade Shows with clinics and concerts worldwide.
For more information on the exhibition, search for Lilit Soelter Solo Exhibition on Facebook. For more information on the artist Lilit Soelter, visit her website: www.lilitsoelter.webs.com For more information on casAntonio, visit their website: www.casantonio.co.kr 34/GROOVE KOREA/february 2011
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arts & entertainment
by Leon Amaysen
SuperColorSuper in February (supercolorsuper.com)
LIARS
A group of notorious rippers originally from N.Y. who have done Coachella, toured with Radiohead, been through many styles and genres and are coming now to disrupt Korea’s Morning Calm™. Liars have never been a band comfortable with staying in one place for very long. Geographically, personally and most of all musically, each successive album that they release comes with a new meaning, a new mythology, a new set of coordinates and a new way of thinking about music. They’ve done dance punk in Brooklyn, art punk in Berlin and, most recently, in Los Angeles they created their own Sisterworld. Described by the band as: “Liars’ own space, completely devoid of influence, somewhere remote from the false promises and discarded dreams amassed in LA. In it Liars explore the underground support systems created to deal with loss of self to society.” This will be SuperColorSuper’s biggest show to date, with a 2nd show in Busan as well as Seoul, as we strive to bring more music outside of Seoul.
Feb. 11- Seoul, V-Hall in Hongdae 10 p.m. 34,000 won Presale/ 38,000 won Advance Feb. 12- Busan, Interplay 10 p.m. 20,000 won Presale/ 25,000 won Advance
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Photo by Aaron Thompson
Round Robin Seoul
Seoul’s most strange and impressive concert series returns. In a Round Robin, all the bands line up along the outside of the hall, and all set up at the same time. The audience is in the middle, surrounded by drum sets, amps, microphones, and a variety of bands moving limbs into their music -- a concert in panorama. All bands play a song at a time with no breaks between artists, blending from genres and the concerts moves around the room. The show will include for the first time, two heats of performances with a total of eight very unique bands that have been moving the Seoul scene forward. Line-up confirmed to date includes Demian the Band, Yours, Used Cassettes, Rainbow Jump Orchestra, Ninano Nanda, Sigborggggg, 3rd Line Butterfly and Kohji Isle. Not to be missed.
February 26 - Club Freebird in Hongdae 15,000 won (Free Drink with Advance reservations; limit 280 tickets)
February 2011/GROOVE KOREA/37
arts & entertainment Apollo 18’s “American Tour Fundraiser” concert takes place on February 26 at Live Club Ssam in Hongdae. Apollo 18, Vassline, Art of Parties, Hanumpa, Tobacco Juice, SmackSoft, and Eshe & Navah will perform. The show starts at 6 p.m. Admission is 20,000 won and includes a free copy of Apollo 18’s U.S. promotional CD. For more information, visit www.myspace.com/apollo18official.
Korean rockers aim to thrill SXSW By Shawn Despres | photo by simon bond Already among the top underground bands in South Korea, Seoul hard rockers Apo18 are ready to take the proverbial ‘next step’ in their career. During their two-and-a-half years together, Apollo 18 have released three albums, been crowned the Hello Rookie 2009 winners and Rookie of the Year at the 2010 Korean Music Awards, gigged in clubs throughout the country and at the likes of the Jisan Valley Rock Festival and the Incheon Pentaport Rock Festival, and have played in Japan. They will soon be able to add an American tour to their list of accomplishments. The post-hardcore and post-rock hybrid trio has been invited to perform at the 2011 South by Southwest (SXSW) Music and Media Conference in Austin, Texas. “SXSW is like a huge musical playground,” says bassist Kim Dae-inn excitedly. “Korea is a small playground. We want to go and play on a bigger playground.” Now in its 25th year, SXSW will run from March 16–19.The renowned event’s 2010 edition included 2,000 bands from nearly 50 countries showcasing their talents on 80 stages in downtown Austin. With so many acts, it is not surprising that SXSW attracts thousands of music industry staff from all around the world. “We’d ultimately like to talk with some record labels from America and other countries,” said guitarist Choi Hyun-seok. “Making new friends is very important to us, too. We want to meet more bands and music fans
ECI Allstars Vol. I This is one of the most important releases to date by one of Asia’s freshest labels- ECI Korea.This compilation is supported by the likes of Carlo Lio,Gary Beck, Jozif, Laurent Garnier to name but a few. The album has ten original groovy winter tracks by ECI veterans- BagageeViphex13, Nova, Ujn,Mang Esilo, Unjin and recently signed artists Ehyun (Nightchild), Molinari (Resopal Schallware), Noi aka Matheus Komar (Jackmoves and Gastspiel),Soolee (Foundation) and Xeum (S2G Production and Tenor Recordings)
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from all around the world.” “We also want to drink Texas beer and see lots of shows,” added drummer Lee Sang-yun with a smile. “There’s going to be so many great bands there. We definitely want to set aside some time for fun.” The group members are brainstorming ways to advertise at SXSW. They plan to make 500 Apollo 18 iPhone cases to hand out for free at the festival. They are also creating a promotional compilation CD featuring tracks from their “Red,” “Blue,” and “Violet” Korean records. With so much to do, are they concerned about having to perform and mingle while being jet-lagged? “We won’t be tired,” says Choi. “This is our first time to travel to America.We are really nervous, but we’re ready. My mind is always awake and energetic. I want to show everyone exactly what we can do.” “I’m a little scared of the plane ride,” Kim said. “Once we land in Texas, though, I have no worries about us being able to do a great job.” After SXSW, they will play a week’s worth of concerts in surrounding areas. Although their full itinerary has not been finalized, Apollo 18 confirmed they are appearing at Arkansas’s Valley of the Vapors Independent Music Festival. The costs of plane tickets, an American entertainer visa, and van and equipment rentals are very high. Turning to local music lovers for help, Apollo 18 will host a Seoul fundraiser gig on Feb. 26.There will be live sets from some of the city’s premier bands and Canadian bellydancer Eshe and her Navah troupe. In April, Apollo 18 will begin writing and recording their next album. Viewing the awesome, acclaimed “Red,” “Blue,” and “Violet” discs they issued in 2009 and early 2010 as experiments, they consider their upcoming full-length their first official release. “We want to put our new record out in May or June,” offers Lee. “We aren’t sure what it will sound like.” “I think it’s going to have a heavier sound, but we don’t know yet,” says Choi. “It’s going to be strongly influenced by what we experience during our American tour.”
For more info on shows, visit: www.koreagigguide.com
Launched globally on over two-hundred digital music stores including Beatport, Juno,Trackitdown, as well as, Amazon, the album and its tracks are available on both CD and digital formats.
Join GROOVE KOREA’s Facebook group for a chance to win the album as we will be giving away 10 copies!
groove korea
e v ea
r ko
r g
A guard post beside the frozen Imjin River. Photo by Matt Lamers
s e in l t on r f e h t On In Groove Korea’s boldest and most thought provoking issue to date, we take a look at everything North Korean: A teenage defector in Seoul fights the odds to fit in; a South Korean kibbutz-modelled village across the CCL symbolises reunification; expats in Seoul help struggling defectors learn English; and a Western-run travel company leads the charge when it comes to tourism in North Korea. We asked two leading opinion setters on Pyongyang to break down the current geopolitical situation. Michael Breen has worked in Korea as a journalist and public relations consultant for 25 years, while Andrew Salmon covers the Koreas for Forbes, the South China Morning Post and the Washington Times. Also sharing his experience is Ron McMillan, who photographed North Korea extensively from the late 80s to the early 90s. Though many of us have mentally separated ourselves from the regime to the north, it is nonetheless an omnipresent threat. This month, we take a look at the people on the front lines. Matthew Lamers, Adam Walsh
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February 2011/GROOVE KOREA/41
north korea
north korea
“I want to work in hospitals -- hospitals that would be built in North Korea after reunification. My mom was always sick when I was growing up. I felt really nice about myself whenever I nursed her to better health.
Fitting in, North Korean style By Matthew Lamers, Hannah Chang
I
n some respects, Jo In-hee is your typical South Korean teenager. She’s not allowed to wear makeup. She was obsessed with the TV drama “Secret Garden.” She goes to high school by day, attends a hagwon by night, and in between worries about where to go to university. But the 19-year-old North Korean defector has much more on her plate than an average teenager. On top of high school, hagwon and studying for her university entrance exam, Jo has worked hard to fit in, succeed in school and learn the ins and outs of getting ahead in the South. “For about two years, it was very hard for me. I was very confused. The words ‘North Korea’ never left my mind; they were always there. And I didn’t have any friends -- not one,” Jo said in an interview. Challenges are enormous for a defector her age: She worries about making friends, like all teens, but the biggest question for her is when to tell people she is from North Korea. It’s not exactly the most effective ice breaker. Most defectors Jo’s age tend to be years behind their South Korean counterparts scholastically. In English education -- no explanation needed for its importance in the South -- she could recite the ABCs on arrival, but could muster up little more. According to the Education Support Center for North Korean Migrants, adapting to South Korea’s notoriously competitive schools is
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the most difficult aspect of integration. The age gap adds to the challenge. North Korean defectors on average have a two-year age gap with their classmates. South Korea has been busy trying to create a system to facilitate a smooth transition into society, especially for these school-age defectors. When North Koreans reach the South, they go to a facility in Anseung, Gyeonggi Province named Hanawon for reeducation and a two month adaptation period. Orphans are then assigned to boarding schools. Young students with parents are released to live with their families.The Korean Educational Development Institute develops texts, support materials, and provides mentoring and career counseling. But the center only focuses on the fundamentals of living in a capitalistic society. Take everything you’ve learned about the world and cram it into a two-month crash course; for the rest, they’re on their own. Shin Hyo-sook from the Education Support Center identifies two more challenges: social adaptation and laying out their own career path. “They have difficulties deciding their own careers themselves because that is different from the North, where the country decides life paths for people. (In South Korea) government-supported education for (defectors’) career training is necessary,” said Shin. Jo, however, knows exactly what she wants to do. “I want to work in hospitals -- hospitals that would be built in North Korea after reunification. My mom was always sick when I was growing up. I felt really nice about myself whenever I nursed her to better health. “It is a nice feeling to know that someone is feeling better because of my hand. So I always thought that I would do something to help sick people. I want to study hard and become a nurse and work at hospitals in North Korea someday,” she said.
Making time for friends When Jo was growing up in North Korea, there was little time for school. She was not required to study because the family had to farm to survive. She had not hosted any fantasies about post-secondary education then. Only the top students in her school had a chance to go to university - students who were well off and whose family held a high social status in the community. From the minute Jo set foot in her first South Korean school, she
was determined to succeed. She had to be. She was years behind. How do you catch up to students that started the race years before you -- and are accustomed to running day and night? You study hard. “So I spent those times reading books, paying attention in class lectures. I spent those times studying.” She had help, of course. When she started studying, teachers around her didn’t hesitate to offer assistance.They told her to go to a hagwon, they mentored her, and gave extra English grammar lessons. “If I had trouble with something, they were always here to help.” Jo’s first day of school in South Korea was in mid-March -- two weeks after the semester began. By then, the other middle school students had already formed friendships. Doors were closed to newcomers. Most certainly to an outsider like Jo. “I was the only one left alone. I felt alone. About two years passed. Those were hard times. People in front of me wouldn’t talk to me if I spoke, nor would they initiate a conversation, nor could I go up and talk to them. I had to just spend those times studying,” she said. In her second year of middle school, Jo decided she couldn’t go through life without friends. She told her new homeroom teacher she wanted to meet people. So her teachers helped her make friends. “And I had so much fun with them. I was worried still, but since students join from other schools, students were also new to each other and we got closer,” she said. “My life changed after I was able to connect with people.” It’s not easy making friends with people that grew up in a different world. Little of how she lived and what she was taught in her childhood was applicable to her new life in the South. She even had to get used to having electricity 24-hours a day. In North Korea, her electricity would be on for four hours a day at most. “At 10 o’clock at night and after the North Korean national anthem is sung, all the lights go off. But here, the light is on 24 hours a day.” Studying is a national obsession for South Korean teenagers. And when they’re not buried in books, they’re in a hagwon or playing computer games. Jo had found it difficult to connect with her peers because it was hard for her to comprehend these social trends. “I was surprised at the number of people playing computer games. They play computer games a lot. Also, since we (North Koreans) don‘t have televisions, we used to spend time with our friends - in a physical sense - all the time. However, here (in South Korea) friends don’t get together often, and rarely play together.”
Meet her mentor, Hwang Eun-joo Jo’s mentor, Hwang Eun-joo, accompanied her to the interview. Though she helps five teenagers from her local Rainbow Youth Center, Jo is Hwang’s main student. “I strongly believe that it is my calling to help North Koreans. I feel it is an obligation for all people to help those whose rights aren’t respected as human beings,” said Hwang. “I feel compassion for the people in North Korea. I hope to go to there someday when we are reunified to rebuild churches and restore the lives of the broken people,” she added. Statistics show that defectors need all the help they can get. Suicide accounted for 16 percent of all deaths of North Korean defectors in 2009, according to Rep. Gu Sang-chan of the Grand National Party, a ratio that is almost three times higher than that of South Korean natives. And according to the Unification Ministry, defectors’ average monthly income sits at 1.26 million won ($1,090) -- exactly half of what South Korean natives earn. NGOs and the government have instituted a number of initiatives in an effort to close the gap, one of which is the Ministry of Welfare, Health and Family Affairs’ Rainbow Youth Center program. It has operated inside district community centers across the country since 2006 with the purpose of helping North Korean and foreign teenagers integrate into South Korean society. Jo said the help she gets at the Rainbow Youth Center is instrumental. “I am surprised that I get as much help as I do. I don’t think I’ve ever had an occasion where I didn’t get the help that I had needed,” she said. “As I told you, the present is the happiest time of my life. I am very happy now.”
Her message for South Koreans Jo said South Korean natives tend to slot North Korean defectors into certain categories. “They think they’re stupid, lazy, and even a burden,” she said. “I want to ask those who hold negative opinions of us to please put yourselves in our shoes. And consider how hard it is for us to make friends and succeed in a wholly different educational and social environment.”
February 2011/GROOVE KOREA/43
north korea
north korea
The arduous march of North Korean tourism Mass Games
By Matthew Lamers | photos courtesy of koryo tours
T
he biggest attraction to North Korea for Western tourists has always been the country’s opaqueness. “I went to Gaeseong to say I went, to have pictures nobody else had, and to see just what all the fuss was about,” said Brent Meske after visits to Gaeseong and Mount Geumgang. Some tourists are surprised by horse-drawn buggies in the countryside, while others are taken aback by the immaculateness of the capital. Then there are those who go for the thrill of visiting a dying country. Inter-Korean tension and a temporary ban on North Korean travel from the South notwithstanding, the tourism industry is a lucrative source of foreign currency for a country whose trade volume was only $3.41 billion last year. Just 3,000 non-Korean tourists make the trip annually. But that dwarfs in comparison to the number of South Korean tourists that
Song of Paradise DPRK National Opera poster 44/GROOVE KOREA/february 2011
Sunset at the Juche Tower, the sculptures represent the Worker, Intellectual and Farmer
Tour guide for the USS Pueblo that was captured in 1968 off North Korea’s east coast February 2011/GROOVE KOREA/45
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north korea
A traffic policewoman - chosen for her skill and good looks
Film Studio Street - a copy of ancient Korean, Japanese, Chinese and European streets had been crossing the border. In 2009, 240,000 tourists visited the North’s Mount Geumgang resort via South Korea and thousands more went to the ancient capital city of Gaeseong. Meske booked his tour through Hyundai Asan, a South Korean company that shelled out $942 million to Pyongyang for exclusive rights to operate tours to the North from the South for 30 years. And it’s big business. Demand had been enormous in South Korea to get a peek at its northern half, which it has been separated from since the 1950-53 Korean War. But tours from the South have been on hold since relations deteriorated to their worst level in decades. Until that changes, anyone wanting to enter North Korea will have to do so on either an Air Koryo or Air China flight from Beijing. There are somewhere in the range of 20 travel groups that can reserve space on a highly-regulated tour of North Korea. They act as intermediaries between tourists and the state-owned (North) Korean International Travel Company. It’s the KITC guides who will be responsible for you once inside North Korea. Hong Kong-registered Koryo Tours is by far the most popular group that facilitates travel into the North from China, with roughly 50 percent of the market share. Last year, 1,300 people booked tours through Koryo. In 1993, its first year in business, it took 15 tourists to North Korea. Its Beijing office has eight Westerners who accompany the tours.
Pyongyang Skyline 46/GROOVE KOREA/february 2011
All speak Chinese and can communicate in Korean.They have been to North Korea dozens of times; among them, Simon Cockerell is closing in on his 100th visit and Nancy Pellegrini is said to be the most travelled American in North Korea. For a company doing business in a country ranked dead last in the Wall Street Journal and Heritage Foundation’s Index of Economic Freedom, Koryo Tours has done quite well for itself.Through personal connections in the country, it has pried open new sites for foreign tourists, the most recent example is Haeju city and Humhang this year. Koryo Tours also works with schools (spend a day at a Korean school) and football teams, arranging “friendship matches.” During the Peace and Friendship festival in 1995, Koryo Tours brought in over 100 tourists – the most Westerners that had entered the country at once since the Korean War. That’s not to say it has been a smooth ride. In an interview, cofounder Nicholas Bonner described the company’s beginnings as an “arduous march.” Since Koryo Tours started promoting tourism into North Korea, the country has gone through a dynastic transfer of power, a devastating famine, suffered economic collapse, conducted two nuclear tests, was subsequently sanctioned by the United Nations, shot to death a South Korean tourist, sunk a South Korean warship, and last November bombed a South Korean civilian-occupied island into oblivion. And you thought your job was tough. “Challenges are enormous,” Bonner admitted. The group spent five years working with North Korean artists to produce work for the Asia Pacific Trienniale at Queensland Modern Art Gallery, Australia, in 2009. The intent was for the artists to create pieces different from revolutionary art, which is standard in North Korea. The artists were to travel to Australia to explain their pieces to visitors. The government of Australia, however, rejected all six North Korean artists’ visas were at the last minute. “Crazy, all this work and then stopped by some well-intentioned bureaucrat/politician who thinks engagement is not the way ahead.”
Engagement “Judging by the response from tourists we take in, we are doing something right – we take great care to get you as much access as possible and not just do the standard tour,” Bonner told Groove magazine. “I think we are genuine, profit is a motive, but engagement is the incentive that drives us.” Last year Koryo Tours was busy. The office brought Middlesbrough Ladies FC to North Korea to play two North Korean local sides. In December they had the U.S. film “Bend It Like Beckham” broadcast nationwide – marking the first time a foreign film had been aired in North Korea, “and that makes us really happy,” said Bonner. There’s no shortage of those opposed to travel into North Korea. It’s a logical position in light of the ruling regime’s dismal human rights record. And for many, it’s a grinding question: To what extent is my revenue supporting a regime that has done little more for the proletariat than coerce rice aid from South Korea, while thousands die of starvation because of the Songun doctrine (army-first policy) adopted in the mid-90s? Engagement is the key word for Koryo Tours. Even during the famine that resulted in the deaths of hundreds of thousands, Koryo Tours operated. “It helped the position of our Korean colleagues to have a direct income – and you realize the positive impact of tourism, just
Taeddong River with Juche Tower on the horizon
Ryugyong Hotel skyline
Artists in Moranbong Park how many people the industry supports. “Tourism has such a positive impact – the big difference now that English is the second language in Korea and tourism introduces North Koreans to a new world of experience via tourists,” said Bonner. “Certainly North Korea is like a tabla rasa – you see what you want – and it is quite handy to be able to speak to one of us to understand exactly what it is you are seeing,” he explained. Jillian Ong went to North Korea through Koryo Tours. She said she had been living in the South and was curious about what was across the border. “I didn’t see as much poverty as I expected, but I expect we were shielded from all that. I was also rather surprised by Pyongyang – I was expecting it to be run-down and sad, but it was immaculate and almost pretty – in a Sovietera sort of way. “I was also struck by how single-minded the North Koreans were in their point of view. We went to a war museum in Pyongyang where, among many ludicrous claims, their version of history said that the South started the Korean War. And all that fervent stuff about Kim Il-sung and Kim Jong-il. And how evil the West –specifically America – is. “And while it’s easy to write them all off as brainwashed, you have to wonder if their version of history has any truth, whether our point of view is any less revisionist or propaganda-led. It’s a strange place.”
Preparing for a parade
Kim Il Sung Square and Juche Tower
For Pscore, it’s about building bridges By Matthew Lamers
B
efore Pscore’s Halloween party in Hongdae last year, Brian Gleason was excited to help his North Korean students pick out their first costumes. He said the disguises allowed them the rare chance to shed the “North Korean” label and interact simply as people. “There were no North Koreans or South Koreans or foreigners there that night, just people, and although a Halloween party may seem trivial to some, I think everyone in the room understood the significance of what was going on,” said the 26-year-old American. Established by North Koreans, South Koreans and foreigners, Pscore is dedicated to promoting the cause of reunification and helping defectors navigate South Korea’s complex society. For Lee Hyeon-seo, a 28-year-old North Korean defector that has been studying with Pscore for six months, forming relationships with her foreign friends has allowed her to build confidence and explore her individuality. “Sometimes I feel tired managing my parttime jobs, studying with Pscore and for college classes. But I cherish these things because they help me build confidence,” she said. Seventy percent of Pscore’s students take advantage of its English tutoring program. There is a pool of 726 volunteer teachers that 195 students can draw from. Lee studies English through Pscore up to twice a week. Although English proficiency is the end goal, it also encourages the exchange of culture, which is something she says she appreciates. “My English has improved quite a bit in a short period of time and I now have no problem with simple communication. It has made a profound difference in my life. Of course, I think will power is an important factor in this,” she said. Kim Young-il - now Pscore’s executive di-
rector - defected one year into his North Korean military service when he was 19 years old and landed in South Korea after his 23rd birthday. “We are happy when we hear from our students that their grades rose due to our education programs. Many have said they passed college exams and scores on English tests like TOEIC improved because of us,” said Kim. Since co-founding Pscore, he has dedicated himself to promoting reunification and helping other defectors. The organization was conceived in the summer of 2006 when a group of defectors - Kim included - South Korean university students and expats gathered to discuss human rights in the North. After the discussion turned to the reunification of the two Koreas and the apparent indifference, even opposition, demonstrated by many in South Korea, the group decided to address the root cause, which it deemed to be the economic burden South Koreans know is waiting for them after the floodgates open at the border. Pscore’s mission is to find mutually beneficial economic solutions for reunification. Pscore also helps defectors in two ways. It has developed an education program for teenage defectors based on a one-on-one tutoring program for any subject they need help with. Pscore has also taken up the cause of North Koreans’ human rights by providing venues for seminars, conducting essay contests, and holding English camps. “(English education) was the most difficult part for defectors. Having no friends or family was the other huge challenge,” said Kim. “We teach them English, but the more important purpose of our programs is to help them establish their identity and build selfesteem.” “PSCORE is a bridge,” Gleason said, “connecting North Koreans with their friends in every direction, not just to the south.” “Although the country remains divided, they’ve proven that their friendships can permeate even the most heavily militarized border in the world.”
WHAT YOU CAN DO
For more information on Pscore, visit www.pscore.org. For information on volunteering, click on 참여마당 on the Korean website. They can be reached by phone at (02) 6497-5035 from 9:30 a.m. to 6 p.m. Monday to Friday. “Volunteering strengthens the community because it gives its members a personal stake in improving their surroundings. During difficult times, especially when government assistance is insufficient, ordinary citizens are compelled to invest their own time and energy to help fill the void. In the process, volunteers become more connected to others around them and the community becomes more integrated.” - Pscore volunteer Brian Gleason
February 2011/GROOVE KOREA/47
north korea
books
The Korean War: A History
further reading: The Aquariums of Pyongyang: Ten Year in the North Korean Gulag
by Bruce Cumings
By Kang Chol-won & Pierre Rigoulot (2005)
reviewed by todd sharp For two men claiming expertise in a field where so little information is available, North Korea watchers Bruce Cumings and B.R. Myers have come to some wildly different conclusions. Indeed, Myers has taken many shots at Cumings in his Atlantic review of North Korea: Another Country and then in his own book The Cleanest Race: How North Koreans See Themselves and Why It Matters. On many occasions – such as Cumings’ assertion that Koreans prioritize individual freedom less than the West, and therefore the West should be less bothered by human rights abuses – Cumings makes himself an easy target. That’s not to say that the two don’t agree on anything. The Cleanest Race and Cumings latest,The Korean War:A History, reach at least two of the same conclusions: 1) the United States has spent too long observing North Korea from the American point of view, and 2) there’s no reason to expect that the North will accept re-absorption into the South without a fight. While Myers uses North Korea’s official status as a military-first state and its doctrine of racial purity to arrive at these conclusions, Cumings emphasizes the outcome and causes of the 1950-53 fratricidal conflict. In his latest book, Cumings shows that the two Koreas were put under the care of those who had served very different roles during Japan’s 1910-45 rule over the peninsula. While resisting the Japanese in China, North Korea’s Kim Il Sung had acquired such a formidable reputation that, during the Korean War, the South stooped to claiming that the North was being led by an impostor, and not the real, heroic Kim Il Sung. Most of the South’s leadership, however, had served a very different role. This colored the North’s view of them then, and continues to do so today. “(The North) essentially saw the war in 1950 as a way to settle the hash of the top command of the South Korean army, nearly all of whom had served the Japanese,” Cumings writes. Given the elderly ages of the North’s current leadership – of whom Kim Jong-il is by far the youngest – that view remains intact. Furthermore, he asserts that the North Korean people have no interest in having their nation assimilated into the South because of war crimes
48/GROOVE KOREA/february 2011
“When he was nine years old, the author – and members of his family – was sent to the notorious labor camp Yodok, where for ten year he observed frequent public executions and endured forced labor and near-starvation rations. He eventually escaped to South Korea and now, working as a journalist, gives testimony to the atrocities…” committed against them when U.S. and South Korean forces entered their territory. The atrocities committed by South Korea during the war (and against their own people before that), along with the aerial bombardment from U.S. forces from 1951-53 receives special attention from Cumings. It may strike many as North Korean apologetics, but he insists that attention to these crimes is essential to understanding the Northern mindset today, and to eventually ending the standoff. Plus, he indicates that his emphasis on South Korean war crimes is at least partially because, unlike the North, the South has since taken an interest in investigating its own misdeeds. This is a difficult book to read at times, partly because it offers an unsanitized vision of the war. One section in particular, about an American napalm bombing that accidentally struck one of its own troop contingents hits as suddenly as an aerial attack and is similarly horrifying. But it is also not always easy to follow Cumings’ train of thought, as he skips from writing about the war itself to commenting on literature written about the war, then links it to McCarthyism and the delegitimizing of the American left. At a slim 243 pages, not counting notes and acknowledgements, it sometimes cannot carry the weight of Cumings’ ambitions. Its central theme, though, is as valuable now as when previously expressed in The Art of War: Know your enemies and know yourself. Doing so in this case would mean realizing painful, shocking things about the American role in the war. It would be less painful, though, than ignorance proved to be in the last Korean conflict, not to mention later in Vietnam and Iraq. Even B.R. Myers would find it hard to disagree with that.
Escaping North Korea: Defiance and Hope in the World’s Most Repressive Country By Mike Kim (2008) “Mike Kim, who worked with refuges on the Chinese border for four years, recounts their experiences of enduring famine, sex-trafficking and torture, as well as inspirational stories of those who overcame tremendous adversity to escape the repressive regime of their homeland and make new lives…”
rea. He spent the next four decades in a country that had become “a giant, demented prison,” until the Japanese government secured his release, along with that of his Japanese wife, who had been abducted by the North Koreans. Jenkins’s book is oddly compelling.” – The New Yorker
The Cleanest Race: How North Koreans See Themselves and Why It Matters B.R. Myers (2010) “A particularly nasty strain of racist propaganda has enabled North Korea’s dictatorship to maintain power... Myers combines his cultural and linguistic fluency with sharp analysis to throw light on one of the world’s most closedoff cultures. Examining North Korean books, news broadcasts, and films, Myers finds that the country’s supremacist propaganda can be traced to imperial Japan, which sought to convince Koreans that they were part of the “world’s purest race.””
Under the Loving Care of the Fatherly Leader: North Korea and the Kim Dynasty
This is Paradise!: My North Korean Childhood
By Bradley K. Martin (2006)
“Hyok Kang’s story of a childhood spent in North Korea during the repressive regime of Kim Jong Il provides a rare window into the “most closed state in the world.” … Hyok paints a mind-boggling picture of long school days followed by hours of farmwork, routine executions viewed by hundreds, and the “nocturnal disappearances” of friends and neighbors… It was only when faced with death by starvation that the family ultimately made the decision to escape.” – Booklist
“This comprehensive examination of this totalitarian society and the two men who have dominated it is often terrifying. For a quarter century, Martin has covered North Korea while working for the Baltimore Sun, the Asian Wall Street Journal, and Newsweek. Using newly available material from Russian and Chinese sources, Martin offers surprising insights into the career and character of both Kim IlSung and his son, Kim Jong-Il.” – Booklist
Valleys of Death: A Memoir of the Korean War by Bill Richardson and Kevin MaurerBy reviewed by todd sharp After Bruce Cumings The Korean War: A History, with its graphic descriptions of war-time brutality and disturbing documentation of the American role in it, a book like Valleys of Death: A Memoir of the Korean War is refreshing. “Refreshing” is probably not what the authors, U.S. Army Col. William Richardson and journalist Kevin Maurer, had in mind; this is after all the story of Richardson’s service in the 1950-53 conflict, including 34 months spent as a prisoner of the Chinese army. Reading about his determination to survive, not just for his sake but to give the men around him hope, is inspirational.
The payoff comes after about 300 pages of suffering, though. Before that, Richardson witnesses his men die on the battlefield and sees their wounds fester untreated in Chinese prison camps. Even after release, the mother of a fallen comrade tells him that he should have died rather than her son. And that’s just his mental anguish; he also must care for his own shrapnel wound, is nearly crippled by a Chinese guard,
and at one stage comes close to drowning in actual human excrement. While John McCain’s Faith of My Fathers dealt at length with his early life and the McCain family legacy in the U.S. Navy before getting into his experience as a POW in Vietnam, Valleys of Death offers only a brief intro before the suffering starts. But like McCain, Richardson refuses to relent in the face of physical pain or attempts at “re-education” from his captors. Once released, he realizes that his mind has been key to his survival and that, no matter what form his future trials come in, he at least will not face the prospect of being shot. Unlike in McCain’s book, though, Richardson has little to say about the war’s justness. McCain used passages from Faith of My Fathers to rail against the Lyndon Johnson administration’s failure to prosecute the Vietnam War more aggressively; the most Richardson does is suggest that the U.S. government had failed to prioritize Korea before 1950: “When Secretary of State
Dean Acheson had highlighted American interests in the Pacific a few years before, he didn’t even mention the Korean Peninsula. That turned out to be an invitation to North Korea, backed by Russia and China, to test their expansion desires. We didn’t leave tanks there after World War II since the terrain was not suitable, a fact the North Koreans dismissed when they crashed into South Korea with their Russia-made T-34 tanks. Bruce Cumings might take issue with labeling North Korea’s desire to unify the Korean people and punish Japanese collaborators as “expansionist,” this book is unlikely to set off partisan debates. Hawk and dove alike can appreciate Richardson’s bravery and mental strength. With threats of further conflict persisting on the Korean Peninsula, though, this book illustrates what lays ahead should diplomacy fail. For every Richardson who survives a similar ordeal, how many would perish? And how many of those would “victory” be worth?
By Hyok Kang and Philippe Grangereau
The Reluctant Communist: My Desertion, Court-Martial and 40-Year Imprisonment in North Korea
Comrades and Strangers Behind Closed Doors in North Korea
By Charles Robert Jenkins (2008)
“In this fascinating account of the adventures of an outsider in the world’s most closed society he (Harrold) describes the privileged position he enjoyed in Pyongyang and the government constraints on his liberty…”
“In January, 1965, Jenkins was a U.S. Army sergeant stationed in South Korea. Sure that he was about to be sent to Vietnam, he drank ten beers, abandoned his patrol, and crossed into North Ko-
north korea
books
By Michael Harrold
February 2011/GROOVE KOREA/49
north korea
‘North Korea’ album set for March release pinnacle review and photo by dylan goldby Over the past two years, Pinnacle and The Antidote have been setting Seoul alight with their eclectic mix of rock, hip-hop, jazz, and funk. Now emcee and front man Pinnacle plans a bold solo effort named “North Korea.” The album is a conceptual piece with multiple collaborators, and focuses more on Pinnacle’s personal method of expression - hip hop.
TaeGukGi: The Brotherhood of War 태극기 휘날리며 reviewed by daniel joseph vorderstrasse As the North Korean army invades Seoul in 1950, 18 year-old high-school student Jin-seok (Won Bin) is forcefully conscripted to repel the oncoming communist forces in this gritty war epic. Mentally and physically unfit for battle, he’s safeguarded only by his roughneck older brother Jin-tae (Jang Dong-gun), who shined shoes to provide Jin-seok with a college education prior to the attacks. In their first encounter with Northern forces, Jin-tae shines in battle and is told by his superiors if he can earn Korea’s highest medal of valor, then his brother can be sent home. Destined to protect his sibling, Jin-tae volunteers for this task, which is almost destined for a fatal ending. On the battlefield, Jin-tae propels himself, sometimes single-handedly, against the invaders with reckless abandon knowing the only way for both to evade a fatal conclusion is to strikedown the entire North Korean army or perish with honor, providing Jin-seok with a train ticket home to extend the family name for further generations. As war endures, and Jin-tae’s valorous exploits continue, a void grows between
50/GROOVE KOREA/february 2011
music & movies Since last December, Pinnacle has been collaborating with artists and specialists ranging from musicians and emcees to IT specialists and graphic designers to make a record that has allowed the community to build and work together. “This is a phenomenal concept because the focus is community building. Building community through the arts,” he said. Much of the recording has been done at Z Fact Studio in Apgujuong, Seoull, and 2LSON Studio near Hongdae, and the finishing touches are being fine tuned for the upcoming release. “Some how, some way, North Korea has affected our lives,” he added. Each song on the new album has a focus on some aspect of that world, and tracks like “Coming Home” have a personal focus. Although the concepts are deep, they come from the heart.
Look out for it shortly after the March release of the first single. The full story of Pinnacle and the Antidote will be covered in Groove Korea’s special music edition in March. For more information, go to www.pinnaclethehustler.com the brothers as war rears its ugly head and a fortuitous conclusion seems unlikely at the current pace. Rather than heed his brother’s wishes, or more appropriately warnings, Jin-tae increases the reckless abandon with little regard for himself. For the majority of the duration, life and death cross path as one man’s survival seemingly means another’s perish as war’s terrifying effects and gruesome nature are exposed The film contains all the pre-requisites for a heroic war epic. Jin-tae fulfills the roll of a meager man who repeatedly defies the odds with exemplary acts of bravery. Mix-in numerous battle scenes highlighting the horrors of war with an absence of humanity when one faces the worst fears, one will be presented with cinematic events which utterly alter one’s values and perceptions leaving the viewer left with images making one question the existence of a supernatural. Nothing but praise can be given and applause beckons for its exemplary polished presentation of the brutality of war depicted through a brilliant screening with attention to detail in all aspects of cinematography.
JSA - Joint Security Area 공동경비구역 reviewed by daniel joseph vorderstrasse As tensions between North and South are running on pinsand-needles already, an unfortunate disaster between the two “brotherly” nations presents a recent development adding fuel to an everburning fire. As peacekeepers, the Swiss and Swedish delegations have been charged with calming fears by investigating the incident resulting in the death of two Democratic People’s Republic of Korea (DPRK) soldiers at the hands of a Republic of Korea (ROK) Sergeant. Swiss Army Major Sophie Jang (Lee Young-ae) is assigned the arduous task of navigating the bureaucratic lines of each respective military hierarchy to quench the flames. ROK Sergeant Lee Soo-hyuk (Lee Byunghun) claims to have been kidnapped by the communists and killed two DPRK soldiers in the process. Apparently, Sergeant Lee and his company were running maneuvers when the unit accidently crossed the DeMilitarized Zone (DMZ). While relieving himself before returning home, he stepped on a mine and was left as the sole member in enemy territory. When discovered, he was kidnapped by the northerners and escorted back to the bunker where the incident occurred. The DPRK, via surviving Sergeant Oh Kyeong-pil (Song Kang-ho), paints the picture as Sergeant Lee being nothing-less of a deranged maniac who ambushed unsuspecting soldiers. As the investigation unfolds, the facts from both sides become blurred and obvious factors hinder the truth from presenting itself, thus resulting in a peaceful conclusion between the two war-driven sides. Quality from beginning to end and thoroughly deserving of all accolades received to date, it contains not only a great narrative, but is carried out passionately and eloquently under the watchful eye of director Park Chan-wook (Vengeance Trilogy). Nominated for numerous awards at film festivals spanning the globe and taking home awards of best film and best actor from multiple award ceremonies, the film reeks of quality and oozes excellence. Even an appearance on director Quentin Tarantino’s list of favorite films has been claimed to the film’s ever-expanding arsenal of accolades. Best summed-up by a quote from the movie,“Peace is preserved by hiding the truth,” the movie is a must-see for any person interested in viewing quality cinema.
food
In this N.K. restaurant, the customer is the king Name: Nampo Myun Oak We recommend: Naengmyeon Directions: Go to Euljiro 1-ga Station, Exit 1, (Line 2), It is in an alley behind Hana Bank, 30 meters beyond the Silla Pharmacy Phone: (02) 777-3131 By Sonya Beard
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hen it comes to cuisine, North Korea has a bland reputation in comparison to its southern neighbor. Bland may be better described as subtle, being able to distinguish delicate flavors prancing on your tongue, appreciating each layer, savoring high and low notes of every bite. Bland can be a pleasant departure on a menu of fire-peppery dishes. Something should be said for minimalism and simplicity in a nation’s food palate if for no other reason than to offer variety to suit a diversity of taste. A slew of dining options from the north are popular in Seoul. But one seemed to be more inviting, given the seal of approval from foreign visitors as a part of the Delicious Seoul campaign of Great and Affordable Restaurants. Step inside Nampo Myun Oak, a replicated hanok and visitors take a journey back through time for a truly authentic experience. On the left, notice stone clay pots planted in the ground with dates posted on the lids. Inside, radish is kept cool, fermenting for two-week to onemonth intervals depending on the season. Once ripe, it will be served for the signature dongchimi. The cozy interior features dynasties-old memorabilia and furnishings. Private rooms and floor seating are sectioned off with shoji-style sliding doors. And hanging on the wall are Hanguel autographs of entertainers and a former mayor of Seoul who resides in Korea’s executive mansion, the Blue House. On the tables, dongchimi, a water radish kimchi soup, is compliments of the house — or in this case hanok. While some Korean soups are noisy brown or spicy red with mysterious ingredients, this soup couldn’t be any clearer.
north korea A small helping serves a chilled vinegar-tinged broth, just a few chunks of white radish and a single blade of leak. It’s refreshingly quiet and surprisingly satisfying down to the last slurp. The delicate flavors will come to mind during your next serving of a tangy lemon-infused glass of ice water with a hint of honey on a July afternoon. The restaurant’s main attraction is the Pyongyang naengmyeon, which enticed Rev. John Chong of Seoul and some of his parishioners on a cold Saturday evening. “We had beef at another restaurant, so we came here for the cold noodles,” the Episcopal priest old Groove magazine, adding that his favorite restaurant once again delivered. Paper-thin slices of pickled cucumber pile on shoestring dices of Asian pear and flimsy wedges of red-pepper radish. The sweet-sourspicy trio rests artfully on a nest of buckwheat noodles lowered in dongchimi pot liquor. The half boiled egg topping the naengmyeon is enough protein to make this a hearty meal. Pyongyang-style naengmyeon should not be confused with the other North Korean cold noodle dish that hails from Hamhung, says chef Park Seung Jun. Buckwheat noodles have a softer texture and are easier to chew than the Hamhung style made from a whiteor sweet-potato starch, he explains. Traditionally,South Korea’s food preparation reflected its warmer climates and the necessity to preserve food. North Korea wasn’t bound by adding all those additives to its menu, so the results emphasize the food instead of overpowering spices. First-time diner Seo Jang-sup, who works in the neighborhood, wanted to see if the restaurant lived up to its crowd-drawing appeal. “These days Korean food is very salty,” says Seo, who recognized a difference in taste between this Korea and the other Korea. “We care more about our health.” Seo and his colleagues dug into a skillet of “not too salty” bulgogi (24,000 won, serves two to three) and a banchan of black soybeans, seasoned tofu, seaweed and kimchi side dishes. The exceptional duk mandu will have you thinking twice before you order the pork dumplings from a cheap street vendor again.The mandu soup manages to pack flavor so rich that it taste more expensive than the 8,500 won it cost per bowl. The Abok Jengban — a dish of cow belly beef, mushroom and jejube — is among the most requested order for patrons, says Chef Park. The ample spread of meat and veggies (55,000 won to 65,000 won for two to five guests) is to be dipped in a boiling broth. The establishment, whose owner’s parents are from North Korea, has been serving the family recipes in Seoul for 45 years. During the week, the crowds include employees from all the local businesses in the area; on the weekends, the tourists keep them busy. There’s a Hanguel sign that translates: “Here the customers are served like kings.” If it’s good enough for royalty …
Traditionally, South Korea’s food preparation reflected its warmer climates and the necessity to preserve food. North Korea wasn’t bound by adding all those additives to its menu, so the results emphasize the food instead of overpowering spices.
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Young patriot - Pyongyang 1992
No pictures!
my Memories of North Korea Article and Photos By Ron McMillan
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s a writer of crime fiction set in the Koreas, I am all too familiar with the genre’s diametrically opposed demands for informed, credible veracity and off-the-wall, larger-than-life entertainment. Blurring the lines between the realities of a uniquely dichotomous peninsula and a fictional narrative’s tendency to embrace wide-eyed exaggeration can make the resultant tale a difficult one to craft, let alone believe. Tabloid newspapers excuse shameless distortions with the dictum never let the truth get in the way of a good story, but when writing novels involving North Korea, an even more hackneyed cliché is equally apposite. For in that extraordinary land, truth is indeed stranger than fiction. Between 1989 and 1995 I sampled North Korea’s peculiar attractions on five separate occasions, each time arriving in Pyongyang as a “touris.”. Packing several thousand dollars’ worth of camera equipment and more than a hundred rolls of professional slide film, I was secretly on assignment for top magazines in Seoul, New York and Paris. One trip was in the company of a senior foreign correspondent from L’Express Magazine who, for the previous twenty years, had been parachuted into the middle of the world’s most gruesome news stories. After two decades of reporting from corners of the globe ravaged by famine, genocidal dictators, wars and natural catastrophes that could make war zones look tame, Marc Epstein declared North Korea the
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Pyongyang bar - 1989
Kim Il-sung birthday - 1989
Maternity scan - Pyongyang 1989
Ron McMillan is a photojournalist and author who has spent most of the last thirty years in Asia. His debut crime thriller Yin Yang Tattoo was reviewed in the August 2010 edition of Groove Korea, and is on sale through Amazon and at Kyobo bookstores. The sequel to Yin Yang Tattoo, due for publication in early 2012, centres upon the plight of North Korean refugees seeking asylum in South Korea. For more information, visit his publisher: www.sandstonepress.com
most disturbing place he had ever experienced. In a modern hospital that featured unaccountably on the tourist trail, I saw a woman being “operated on” in a sparkling surgical theater while she wore a watch and jewelry and gesticulated animatedly as she chatted with her “surgeons.” In another room, while the inevitable portraits of the Great Leader and Dear Leader looked on, a pregnant woman seemed quite happy to have an ultrasound scan performed by a machine that was not even plugged into the mains. Outside yet another hospital, a smiling band of patients engaged in “voluntary” beautification work, shovelling dirt and mixing cement on a piece of waste ground – all the while in their hospitalissue pyjamas. The sense of an entire city press-ganged into roles in a ridiculously transparent theatrical production dominated my days in Pyongyang. The “student” at a giant library who is supposedly studying a dry academic tome on Brazilian rainforests while making baby English notes about I go yesterday to movies with friend Mr Park; the “shopper” in Pyongyang Number One Department store who, when she thinks I am out of range, gloomily hands back the sweater that she just “purchased” in front of me; the movie director yelling “CUT!” and whose expensive movie camera’s take-up spool is not rolling. “Actors acting actors acting,” said Marc Epstein, with characteristic drollness. Two decades later, the really scary thing is that nothing much seems to have changed.
Hospital patient volunteers - Pyongyang 1989
Kim Il-sung badge - Pyongyang 1990
Behind the modern Pyongyang facades February 2011/GROOVE KOREA/53
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Most of us (South Koreans) just don’t want to bother with defectors, although we favor their arrival in principle.
Jayu-ro (Freedom Highway) connects Seoul with Gaeseong, North Korea. It is envisioned to be the main road connecting the two countries after reunification, hence the name.
because they fled. Defectors don’t feel they are fully accepted by their new society. On a personal level, they suffer from loneliness, because it is difficult to make new friends and find romantic partners. Most of us (South Koreans) just don’t want to bother with defectors, although we favor their arrival in principle. We don’t understand the larger issues of cultural acclimation that prevents defectors from becoming integrated into South Korean society. When cultures meet, they often clash. South and North Korean cultures have been diverging for over half a century, and it will take a long time for them to blend again. Ko: Korean society is very competitive and personal connections are really important to survive in this society. It must be hard for defectors to settle down in South Korea, but as their numbers grow, South korea will have more support for them. There’s no doubt that great challenges lie ahead, but it is nothing we can’t handle.
Can South Korea afford reunification?
The road to reunification
We sat down with Lee Min-ju and Ko Chang-jin to talk about the road to reunification. Their divergent opinions are telling of a population that is struggling to come article and photo By Matthew Lamers to a consensus on the sociocultural and ee Min-ju would only be in favor of reunification if the economic burden on South economic costs that South Koreans are Korea is negligible. The 28-year-old English teacher says peace is worth any price willing to bear for reunification.
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- even if that means a permanently divided Korean Peninsula.
Ko Chang-jin, on the other hand, is firmly planted in the camp that says unification would benefit the South’s economy in the long run. The 60-year-old retired SKT executive says reunification is the only way to ensure peace in the long run. Their opinions are indicative of a widening gap among older and younger generations on reunification. According the 2009 Unification Perception Survey conducted by the Institute for Peace and Unification at Seoul National University, South Koreans in their 20s and 30s fear economic ramifications associated with reunification that would worsen their already bleak job conditions. “The economic burden for South Korea would be huge, and social chaos is foreseeable in the early stages of unification. Many worry about social disharmony after reunification, and there are many reasons to justify their worries because disparities between the South and the North Koreas are so diverse - socially, politically, linguistically, and so on,” Park Jung-ran, senior researcher at the Institute for Peace and Unification, said in an interview. “Considering potential issues that could arise, unification should be done gradually. Political reunification, which would be agreed upon by the two Koreas, is not the issue at hand,” according to Park. Park suggests laying the groundwork to deal with sociocultural differences well in advance.
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tion may crimp our economic ascent. But because close to 30 percent of older South Koreans’ were born in what is now North Korea, they want to be united so that they can visit their hometown before they pass away.
Why are you against or for reunification from an economic point of view? Lee: We can’t achieve reunification in a short period of time, primarily because of the economic burden that would be placed on the South. Ko: We can get over the shadow of war. If we put together South Korea’s capital and technology and North Korea’s cheap human resources and rich natural resources, the costs won’t be as high as some people say.
What about from a social point of view?
Lee Min-ju (28): Reunification can’t happen because both countries have been separated for over 50 years. If we’re united again, conflict would arise and we will separate again. Ko Chang-jin (60): Korea is the only country which is separated in the world. Until there is reunification, the potential for war will always be present. It must be resolved, and reunification is the only solution.
Lee: If someone produced a blueprint for reunification eliminating the chance of war, social strife and economic calamity, I would support it wholeheartedly. But the fact of the matter is that there will be severe economic and social friction and difficulty in communication. Should we reunify despite all the difficulties? The older generation won’t have to bear all of the approaching problems for reunification. (Implying the younger generation has the most to lose) Ko: I think that there is no doubt that a big gap exists between the two counties in terms of culture, language, and politics. So the more personal exchanges we have now, the easier it will be to deal with those social issues down the road.
Why do you think younger generations tend to oppose reunification, while older generations favor it?
North Korean defectors living in the South have a hard time adapting to life here. To what extent does that portend social stress after reunification?
Is reunification possible?
Lee: For older people, the issue of separated families is the major factor. They will always hope for reunification, so they could meet their family again. But younger people view reunification through a more practical and economic lens. Ko: Young generations are afraid that reunifica-
Lee: Despite their best efforts, North Korean defectors often feel something is terribly wrong with life in their new society. Especially in the first year, most defectors suffer from a combination of distrustfulness, anxiety, and depression — reactions typical of new immigrants in any society. They badly miss their family that they left behind. They must feel guilty for having left family behind that could be punished
Lee: The cost is too high financially and socially. In my opinion, when North Korea finally collapses and the final chapter is written in the Korean War, South Korea will help, but only diplomatically. After all, they are our neighbors. Ko: Yes, we can. We can afford it! Some economists say a consumer levy of 15 percent would be needed to pay for costs associated with reunification. Forecasts vary from an expense of a few hundred million dollars to several trillion dollars. Lee: I fully oppose any increase in the taxes I pay, let alone a tax hike that high. Reunification would benefit North Korea, considering they are heading towards being one of the poorest “countries” in the world. South Korea’s economy is not stable enough to support such a burden. Ko: I am willing to pay a 15 percent VAT tax. But thinking ahead, South Korea has to start securing funds to deal with any number of circumstances that would play out in the North. Economic and social differences still exist between East and West Germany decades after they reunified. At the time of reunification in 1989, their economic gap was much smaller than the gap between South and North Korea. What does that mean for Korean reunification? Lee: Reunification overall has been good for Germany, but even today there are unemployment and education disparities. It has been a long process. As you said, it’s well known that the South-North gap is much wider than the East-West Germany gap ever was. Before reunification, the government must solve the problem of youth unemployment in the South. Ko: The economic gap may be a benefit for us (the South), because we can combine North Korea’s cheap human resources and rich natural resources with the South’s capital and technology, as I said before. In fact more than one study has said that reunification will result in tremendous short-term hardships, but in the long run, a reunited Korea will be able to outmuscle Japan economically and put us in a much better position to compete with China.
Is reunification worth any price? Lee: Peace is worth any price. But I don’t think reunification with North Korea is worth any price. Ko: Reunification is worth any price because only reunification will ensure long-term peace in Northeast Asia.
Reunification wouldn’t be worth it if ... Lee: ... it ruins our economy. Ko: ... there is war.
February 2011/GROOVE KOREA/55
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War Memorial of Korea shelters that could survive an artillery attack. They are at least two floors underground and are usually tunnels or subway stations. Grade 3 shelters -- relatively vulnerable in any attack -- are one floor underground and Grade 4 shelters are basements of houses. Han cautions against underground parking garages, as people will find it hard to resist turning on their cars -- even if only temporality -- to stay warm. “Going down to an underground parking lot and turning on cars for a while will deteriorate the quality of the air and could lead to suffocation,” he warned. Kim Hwan-yun from the Seoul chemical, biological and radiological defense team says a contingency plan depends on what the communists throw at us. “In a chemical weapons attack, go to at least the seventh-floor because chemical gases are heavier than air,” he said. “Seal the window frame so that outside air cannot come inside
and stay there for two to three days. In the case of a nuclear attack, those in the blast radius have nothing to worry about because no one would survive.” Kim also explained the four alarm systems that would be sounded if the North attacked the capital: a warning siren, air-raid siren, CBR (chemical, biological, and radiological) siren and an all-clear siren. When the first warning sounds, make a beeline for the nearest designated bunker. When the air-raid siren and CRB sirens sound, don your protective chemical gear. It is also recommended to keep in touch with your embassy. “If an attack on Seoul occurred, that would be my signal.The continuous micro-skirmishes along the border have been going on for years. I don’t think that will change,” said Kaschor.
For more information, visit the website of the National Disaster Information Center (www.safekorea.go.kr).
Kaschor suggests packing a “go bag” -- a backpack stuffed with essential items -- so you can make a quick escape down south. In his bag is a passport, portable hard disk, flashlight, a Swiss army knife (with wine opener), and Canadian and Korean cash.
Sam Little and Tyler Shultz check out the view from a bomb shelter in Paju, Gyeonggi Province.
Are you ready for war? article and photos By Matthew Lamers
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hen Seoul resident Anthony Kaschor was watching an episode of “Diggnation” and Ashton Kutcher talked about having a go-bag, Kaschor said he though it was ridiculous. “The Cold War with Russia ended a long time ago!” he recalled thinking. But after North Korea leveled a South Korean island with a barrage of artillery, he – and many others here – changed their tune. “I thought it wouldn’t be such a bad idea to have some important things with me ready to go if that moment ever arose,” said Kaschor. Indeed, many in the South that had grown complacent to the threat North Korea posses were given a wakeup call. The bombardment of Yeonpyeong Island in the Yellow Sea, just 12 km from the North’s coast, killed two civilians and the same number of Korean Marines. It was the first time the North had targeted civilians with artillery since
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hostilities ended with the 1953 armistice. The chances of full-blown war are slim, but experts still preach caution and advise preparedness. No one knows why North Korea attacked Yeonpyeong – Pyongyang claims self defense – but ratcheting up internal tension ahead of the transition of power from dictator Kim Jong-il to dictator trainee Kim Jung-un certainly factored in. What should you do to prepare? Kaschor suggests packing a “go bag” – a backpack stuffed with essential items – to make a speedy southward escape. In his bag is a passport, portable hard disk, flashlight, a Swiss army knife (with wine opener), and Canadian and Korean cash. But he said the easing of tensions has stopped him from adding clothing, first aid supplies and food. Experts say that in the event of war, information is just as important as food and shelter. They suggest packing a short wave radio or even a VHF/UHF transceiver. Others have packed into their go bags: a small supply of water, a lighter and maps. “I think it’s important to act quickly, but not to panic. I imagine there would be thousands stranded at Incheon Airport, waiting with everyone else for a flight home. I would choose instead to get out of the hotspots; maybe head south to Busan or other ports,” said Kaschor, adding his mode of transport would be his mountain bike. If you decide to stick it out in Seoul, here’s a picture of what you will be dealing with. Han Do-seong, an architect and former professor of construction engineering of Kyonggi University, explained the four types of shelters in Seoul. Grade 1 are those designated to withstand a nuclear attack. There are no public Grade 1 shelters. Han said that there are 1,400 Grade 2
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Looking south from Tongilchun village, the next stop is Imjingak Station.
Looking north from an intersection in Tongilchun village, South Korea, the next stop is Gaeseong, North Korea.
In a Korean kibbutz, the anticipation of peace
“We’re back to our normal lives. The biggest difference is that we pay closer attention to the news now.” They also decided to build a bomb shelter.
article and photos By Matthew Lamers
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rmed sentries watched with eyes peeled as Ko Chang-jin sat in his parked car and his daughter cast a gaze over a fenced off, icecovered Imjin River. “Someday soon, there will be peace and my grandchildren will be able to play here,” he said. Ko’s banking on it. He dropped almost half a million dollars for a plot of land in the village of Tongilchun - a town that’s so controlled, visitors need permission from the military to come here. His prediction: after reunification, his grandchildren will play freely on the northern banks
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A closed down U.S. military base across the Civilian Control Line.
There’s very little traffic on this bridge traversing the Imjin River because anyone wishing to get to the other side needs a permit from the military to cross the Civilian Control Line. One-hundred and 53 households call Tongilchun, a town on the other side of the bridge, home. February 2011/GROOVE KOREA/59
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Column
Dorasan, the last station in South Korea.
Tongilchun Village chief Lee Won-bae surveys his frozen rice fields. of the Imjin River while the rest of the family watches from the porch of their cottage. Tongilchun rests inside the Civilian Control Line (CCL), which is a 10-km deep buffer between the DMZ and the rest of South Korea. It’s also called the Northern District. Welcome to the front lines of war and peace. Panmunjom, where South Korean and North Korean officials meet for dialogue, is just down the street. Economically, no South Korean village is better situated to take advantage of reunification. Its train depot, Dorasan Station, is the northernmost stop on the Gyeongui line that connects Seoul to North Korea. After passing through a military checkpoint to get to Tongilchun, an expansive and completely empty four-lane bridge crosses the Imjin River to get to the town of 480 people. Lee Won-bae - the village leader - said Tongilchun is just as famous for the beans grown here as its kibbutz-structured economy or the fact it sits inside the CLL. “I make my own bean brand called Jangdan Kong. Jangdan was the old name for this area. This town is a good tour spot because of our famous beans and special location in the CCL,” said the 59-year old. Life is simple here.Two things sustain its inhabitants: agriculture and tourism. Lee said the village is modeled after an Israeli kibbutz – agriculture mostly sustains its inhabitants and the town’s three restaurants and two supermarkets share profits. At one point the town even took security into its own hands. Men and women, young and old, would patrol the streets. The Cold War is as active as ever in Tongilchun, but its people are steadfastly optimistic. Lee even says his village’s proximity to North Korea keeps it safe, in a way. “If North Korea wants to negotiate, they need Panmunjom, so I don’t think they will attack our town,” he said. Tongilchun was founded in 1973 when the government provided a house and 9,000 pyeong (29,000 square meters) of land for 80 households with relatives in North Korea. Soon after, property owners surfaced with the original deeds. “So we had to give up our land, but the government gave us loans to buy new land (nearby),” said Lee. Now there are 153 houses. Daily life in Tongilchun is not unlike any other town, with some excep-
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Inside Dorasan Station, the last stop on the Gyeongui line that connects South and North Korea, a sign reads: “Not the last station from the South, but the first station to the North.”
tions. There’s a 12 a.m. curfew to enter and exit the village; chicken chains don’t deliver here; there’s the occasional military checkpoint; building new homes is essentially banned; and every house is equipped with an intercom the mayor uses to warn of military emergencies. Daily life can be uprooted when interKorean tensions flare. The worst Lee can remember was in 1976 after the “poplar tree incident.” On Aug. 18 that year, 14 allied troops in the DMZ were sent to trim a tree that was blocking the line of sight between a United Nations Command checkpoint and an observation post. Thirty-five North Korean soldiers attacked and hacked to death an American captain and a 1st lieutenant with axes the Americans had brought to trim the tree. “We really thought there would be a war,” said Lee.“We were actually told to go back to our homes and prepare to leave.” The Yeonpyeong Island attack came a close second. North Korea attacked the island on Nov. 21 last year killing two South Korean Marines and two civilians. “People were really nervous. Even after tension subsided, our economic wellbeing took a hit.Tourism is important for Tongilchun, but after the Yeonpyeong attack, we weren’t allowed to accept tourists for 58 days. That really affected our income,” said Lee. Since the latest provocation, the town has settled back into its daily routine. Farmers are back to hosting daily programs for tourists to make bean paste from their jangdan beans. “We’re back to our normal lives. The biggest difference is that we pay closer attention to the news now.” They also decided to build a bomb shelter. Despite the obvious disadvantages, the population of Tongilchun has remained mostly stable over the decades. Some leave – mostly young women who get married – but the men stay behind to work the farms. Lee’s daughter left, but he said he has never entertained the thought of leaving because he’s optimistic for what lies ahead. As Ko Chang-jin goes through the last military checkpoint and drives back over the frozen Imjin River, he takes his foot off the gas pedal and lets the car slow to a crawl as he talks about the future. “I may not be here when peace comes, but I know for a fact that my grandchildren will be.”
North Korea: Why We Stay By Todd Sharp
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here’s a certain wisdom found only in members of my native southern United States who, to put things diplomatically, do not prioritize the acquisition of knowledge. They recognize earlier than the rest of us that there are only a finite number of moments in this life and, rather than waste any of them mulling complex topics or questioning long-held assumptions, simply notice things and react to them. The conclusions they end up with can usually be expressed in four words or less: “She’s hot,” is one of them; “I’m hungry as hell” is another; “Ima get drunk tonight” is one of their more commonly held convictions. But some concepts elude them and defy their ability to react. One example is why one of their own, such as myself, would choose to leave America to go to a faraway place such as Asia. “Why you wanna go there?” they have asked. (In order to more correctly visualize this question, pronounce “why” as “waaaa-i” with just the barest emphasis on the i. Go ahead and practice it a few times. I’ll wait.) “I’d really like to get away from here and travel some place different for awhile,” I have replied. “Why?” comes the follow-up query. “Because I think it would be interesting to see how people live in other places.” “Why?” “Because I strongly suspect that people in other places can pronounce their vowels correctly and don’t think sniffing paint thinner is just part of growing up.” Okay, I didn’t say that last part, but I might as well have. Convincing people such as this that there are valid points to consider outside of the little worlds they grew up in is harder than proving to Christopher Hitchens that Jesus Christ’s first miracle was designing Santa’s first sleigh. But, on the upside, conversing with them does make the prominence of Sean Hannity easier to understand. The conversation would move past mere Q&A when they finally found out where I was going. The word “Korea” has at least some cur-
rency throughout the U.S., and enough so that even the most weed- and moonshine-addled mind can understand and react to it. Unfortunately, even when it follows the word “South,” the word “Korea” for them conjures up images of things they’ve heard on the news while they were flipping through channels looking for reruns of Jackass. And just how do they react to this particular stimulus? With a rhetorical question. “Ain’t they got nucular weapons there?” they ask, breaking the four-word rule due to the gravity of these implications. “They drop a bomb on you, don’t say we didn’t warn ya.” And I surely cannot. Yet here I am, the better part of a decade later, carving out a career for myself in South Korea, dabbling in its language and culture and bonding with its citizens. Meanwhile, many of those I left behind in my native land are probably struggling to spell their names at the unemployment office and passing out drunk in front of Jersey Shore. Every once in awhile, though, it looks like they may have had a point. Discontent as I may have been with life in the southern U.S., I never worried that Kentucky would torpedo an 18-wheeler originating from Tennessee that strayed into its territory. There are also no records of North Carolina launching unprovoked artillery strikes against its southern neighbor to ensure the transition between governors, thus prompting South Carolina and its Floridian allies to discuss retaliation that might engulf the whole region. These are not concerns we have to deal with all the time, but when we do, it’s enough to make one long for the days when fielding open-ended questions from sub-Hannity-level intelligences was our greatest daily trial. The truth is that the situation here is of concern, even to us those of us who long ago decided that fears over North Korea were the domain of those who knew nothing about this part of the world or who worked for the American Enterprise Institute (I apologize for the redundancy). But even as we ponder the future of the Korean Peninsula, we know that we’re here because this country gave us something – be it a family, a job where he could use our liberal arts degrees, or a natural height advantage – we didn’t have in our homelands. We’d like to go back at times, if for no other reason than to quiet down those friends and family who think that Kim Jong-il’s every sneeze threatens our safety. But how do you throw away more opportunities just to make yourself feel a little bit more secure? Furthermore, since most of our homelands are having trouble keeping jobs and/or the value or their currencies, how safe are they, really? These are dilemmas, and not just for the generation that made Nickelback famous. So for now, there’s nothing much for us to do except hope for the best for Korea, because a peaceful resolution would spare many lives on both sides, while a violent one would force us away from here and back to our homes, where we might have to listen to our less enlightened compatriots tell us they were right all along. Nuclear war can’t be worse than that.
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Kim McDonald
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By Shawn Kerns • 2007 • Water color and pencil on Korean Hanji paper • 100.0 x 145.0 cm Kim McDonald shows the horror of our time much like Goya did in his time. It shows the driving forces behind both North and South Korea: the Dear Leader and communism in the North, and capitalism and consumerism in the South. The piece is controversial and misunderstood by many. It has caused as much trouble as it has brought joy. Those who understand the painting’s importance in Korean art history are the ones who get the meaning of the painting. — Shawn Kerns
Flashback or Flash Forward? By Andrew Salmon
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he first I heard about the Yeonpyeong Island shelling was when the phone rang in mid-afternoon, 23 November. I had just got home, having been – ironically -- at the National War Memorial doing some to-camera work on the Korean War for a French producer. The caller was an international broadcaster, and she was very, very excited. “Turn on your TV!” she said. “You’ve never seen anything like this!” Actually, I had. My first impression was that this was film from the war: Burning scrub on barren hills; columns of smoke rising from a devastated village; bewildered, fleeing refugees. Then it was bedlam as stations from France, Germany, Canada and the U.S. called for comment, reaction, analyses. I have been reporting from Seoul since 2003; never had I been so frantically busy. Inter-Korean relations were already at a nadir. The March 26 sinking of the warship Cheonan, in which 46 sailors had been killed, was still a fresh memory. But Yeonpyeong was different. For weeks, after the Cheonan, it was uncertain what had befallen the corvette: Navigational error? Mine? Accident onboard? This time there was no deniability. This was a blatant attack using a high-profile weapons system – artillery – unemployed on the peninsula since the guns fell silent at midnight on July 27, 1953. Not even
Andrew Salmon covers the Koreas for Forbes, The South China Morning Post and The Washington Times, as well as European broadcasters. He is the award winning author of Korean War battlefield history “To the Last Round” and the upcoming “Scorched Earth, Black Snow.”
the most rabid conspiracy theorist or Pyongyang apologist could claim “friendly fire” from a U.S. unit, or a Machiavellian ploy by the Lee Myung-bak administration. Yet South Korea soon settled. It is hard to convince editors – who customarily revert to that marker of lazy journalism,“Tensions Soaring on Korean Peninsula!” – that, in fact, tensions are barely palpable. Nobody is digging a bunker under their backyard kimchi pots, and those key indicators of normalcy, the capital markets, suffer barely a blip. Nor was this the most dangerous moment on the peninsula since 1953 -- as several correspondents who jetted in to cover events claimed. Things were more combustible in 1968, when virtual open warfare flared along the DMZ, and in 1994, when Washington was on the brink of unleashing air strikes against North Korea’s nuclear facilities. But the events of 2010 have lit a fuse under the administration and the military: Any future overt attack will be met with retaliation.This is worrying, as it is uncertain whether South Korea – responsive, as it is, to public and international opinion, neither a concern for the North -could establish escalation dominance. And could an escalatory vortex spiral out of control into Korean War II? I’d say not: All players have too much at stake to let that happen. But I’ve been wrong before.
Michael Breen Column — the pyongyang merry-go-round — Page 86 62/GROOVE KOREA/february 2011
The artist was born in Cleveland, Ohio, and Studied art at Marietta College and Burren College of Art in Ireland. He first came to pubic attention when The Cleveland Museum of Art exhibited his untitled painting of Britney Spears as the Virgin Mary in a field of poppy flowers. Prints of Kim McDonald and Kerns’ other pieces are available for purchase through his website, www.kernsvision.com.
travel international
The author’s essentials just about squeeze onto the bike every morning.
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Travels in Southern Oz - Part 1: Touring Tassie By Rob McGovern As the plane touched down at Launceston Airport a strange feeling of familiarity descended on me. The low-lying hills within walking distance of the runway were a mix of autumn greens and browns, the kind of colors you expect in the highlands of Scotland or the rainy valleys of South Wales.They weren’t luscious, rain forest greens but real, everyday greens, mossy greens that hinted that this trip, on a bicycle and in a tent, might be a test of endurance both in terms of leg power and mental strength. After picking up a touring bicycle in Launceston from Doug Snare at Backpackers Equipment Hire & Rent A Cycle Tasmania (who it turns out is something of a face in the Tasmanian world of hiking and a quirky and thoroughly nice man to boot), the open road lay ahead. One thing is vitally important when cycling Tasmania: read the map accurately. Sounds like a no-brainer I know, but take special care when it comes to elevation. It turns out there are some pretty big hills here. Initially, the Tasmanian Giro was the goal, a suggested 1070-km tour of the main island that a moderately fit cyclist should be able to complete in around 18 days. Most of the tourist spots get covered on sealed roads.
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4 Starting from Hobart, it’s best to cycle counter-clockwise around the state, beginning with the easier cycle up the east coast and finishing with the prevailing Westerlies at your back as you cycle over the central highlands from the west coast back to Hobart. If you start in Devonport or Launceston, in the north, it’s recommended that you cycle the route clockwise, so that you will be fitter by the time you have to climb up to the central highlands. *** The journey began by heading north, up the west bank of the Tamar river toward Exeter on an alarmingly main highway which thankfully gave way to a charming country road lined with vineyard after vineyard. The amazingly named but not so amazingly pronounced Batman (pronounced Bat-mun by the locals) bridge offered a great camping spot on the east bank of the Tamar. Day one finished. A fiscally motivated change of plan (just like the plan to come here in the first instance) prompted an about turn. Back down the Tamar, this time on the eastern bank and back toward, and then through, Launceston and on toward the east coast. Delightful, charming, quiet, deserted, quaint, beautiful, desolate.The various towns, villages and hamlets that made up the route from Launceston to Hobart were all of them. Evandale, Campbell Town, Swansea, Pontypool,Triabunna, Eaglehawk Neck, Port Arthur, Sorell and finally Hobart were all and more of these adjectives, with the amount of lactic acid that had built up in the muscles that day helping to choose which was the most appropriate. This adventure took place over the Christmas and New Year period,
1. Sydney to Hobart yachts at ease in Constitution Dock. 2. The tessellated pavement, a rare erosional feature formed in flat sedimentary rock formation at Eaglehawk Neck. 3. A signpost points toward Conara en route to the east coast. 4. A boat bobs in Great Oyster Bay on Christmas day. to avoid the extortionate prices of some hostels in Sydney. Appropriately, my Welshman Christmas day was spent in Swansea, complete with stress on the second ‘s’. It’s not so much an ugly, lovely town, as Dylan Thomas famously referred to its namesake in Wales, but a beautiful but ultimately lifeless town (although the views of Great Oyster Bay were magnificent). Wielangata road, which hugs the coast south from Triabunna and goes through Spring Beach before moving inland through the Cape Bernier Nature Reserve, was the intended track, but a downed bridge ended that dream. Tasmanian hospitality, however, which is as plentiful here as beautiful coves and bays are, stepped in to save the day as Maureen and Anna, a mother and daughter on their way to visit family, deposited my weary legs and bicycle first in their truck and eventually in Dunalley, after a detour to show off Marion Bay and the site of the soon-to-be Falls Festival, a highlight of the Tasmanian calendar.This was not the first or the last example of Tassie altruism that I experienced, either. The Police and a local bus driver on his day off were also on hand to offer advice, lifts and words of wisdom. After the views, the clean air, the freewheeling, the camping, the place names (Eaglehawk Neck – best place name ever?) the roadkill, the wallabies and the hospitality, a pair of well-worn wheels and tired legs trundled into Hobart in time for the New Year celebrations, the arrival of the Sydney-toHobart yachts, the Taste food festival and the obligatory fireworks. Tired and glad to not have to camp that night, the trip was over. The roads around Tasmania are sometimes tough and dangerous (huge log trucks are not as courteous as you might hope) and they can be long and unforgiving. They are often steep, but the clean air, beautiful scenery and warmth of the people – if not of the atmosphere – make a cycling trip around this rugged island a worthwhile experience. *** There is a lot to do in Tasmania for outdoor types, and guided tours are plentiful and easy to book at almost every hostel in Hobart. The island is packed with history too, especially the grizzly, penal colony kind. For more info on Tasmania generally visit discovertasmania.com.
Check out next month’s issue for another story on traveling southern Australia. More of Rob McGovern’s writing and photos can be found here: http://robguv.blogspot.com and here: http:// robmcgovern.wordpress.com February 2011/GROOVE KOREA/65
travel korea
Fun in the Snow at Muju By Simon Bond Muju Ski Resort, in Deogyusan National Park, is a winter sports paradise. The resort offers skiing and snowboarding at all levels, hiking, restaurants, high-end accommodation and a sauna.
Equipment hire prices (adults) These prices assume you own no equipment yourself. If you have boots for instance and can bring them, the price will be less. Clothing: 1 day 25,000 won, 2 days 30,000 won, 3 days 40,000 won Skiing: 46,000 won daytime, 63,000 won daytime + evening Snowboarding: 43,000 won daytime, 55,000 won daytime + evening
Ski lift prices (adults) Ski lift passes range from 54,000 won to 81,000 won per day depending on how long you wish to Ski.
Accommodation prices Hotel Tirol: 280,000 won for a room Condominium: 200,000 won Youth hostel:100,000 won for a three-person room Other accommodation is available in the village near the entrance of the resort; there is little accommodation in the town of Muju itself.
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Skiing lessons The resort has a range of options for skiing lessons, including oneon-one lessons that cost 250,000 won for two hours. At the other end of the scale are group lessons for 45,000 won for two hours.
Getting there and getting away To get to the resort you’ll first have to get to the town of Muju, which is around 30 minutes from the resort.There is a free shuttle bus that leaves for the resort. The shuttle bus can be found by leaving the bus station: 1. Go out of the bus station so that the taxi stand is in front of you, and turn right. 2. Turn right up the first street you find, and you should arrive at the river. 3. Turn left and walk a short distance until you find DC mart, the bus waits outside of this shop. The bus terminal has buses that leave for several destinations: Seoul: Six a day from the Nambu bus terminal, the journey takes three hours Jeonju: There are buses every hour, and the journey time is 90 minutes Daejon: There are buses every 40 minutes, the journey takes 1 hour. Gwangju: There are six buses a day, the last bus leaves at 5 p.m. from Gwangju and the last return bus from Muju leaves at 5:45 p.m.
travel korea
Snowboarders at YongPyong look like peacocks on acid – the more colorful the outfit, the better. 2
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YongPyong’s Pageant of Color By Josh Foreman It’s a chilly fall day at YongPyong. The season just opened, and keen skiers and snowboarders are already hitting the crunchy, manufactured powder. A kid wanders out from the lodge in gray pants, maroon cloth gloves and a red jacket, a look of shame on his face. His getup looks more like a school uniform than sports gear. He takes a few steps, skis in hand, then gets called back into the lodge by his mother. He’s the hillbilly at the Cotillion, surrounded by the hip, the conspicuous, the powdershredding fashionistas of the slopes: snowboarders. How can he look cool with skis when there are so many boarders around? Seoul folks can accessorize, but the powder seems to push their attempts at conspicuous fashion to a new level. And no sport allows for more conspicuous fashion than snowboarding. All around YongPyong, boarders show off like peacocks on acid. And the pure driven snow is the perfect backdrop to highlight it all. “They want to be special,” said Kim Jimin, a Gyeonggi-based swim coach and part-time snowboarding instructor. Kim said that safety is ostensibly the reason snowboarding outfits are so vibrant. If a boarder gets in trouble, he’ll be easy to spot in a bright outfit amid the snow. But, he said, the real reason is because they want to get noticed. “They want to be bright, but they want to show off,” he said. “If I buy black and black and brown,” he said, motioning to his clothes, “people might think, ‘it’s his first time to come snowboarding.’ “But if I wear bright clothes, it’s kind of like, ‘I’m good at snowboarding.’ I can show off my fashion.” Standing near the entrance of the lodge at YongPyong, a dude poses, board in hand. His outfit: yellow hoodie, Carmello Anthony jersey, blue hat, sunglasses and jeans. Baggy, baggy jeans. And he doesn’t look out of place. Another guy on the slopes is wearing a green and yellow reggae
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3 outfit, complete with yarn dreadlocks. Another is wearing a matte black helmet emblazoned with the words “air blaster” 1. Kim Jimin, a swimming coach and that might look more appropriate on a part-time snowboarding instructor, Hell’s Angel. Neon green comic-printed said boarders wear brightly colored pants, highlighter mosaic coveralls – the outfits because they like to be gaudier the outfit, the more appropriate noticed. it is here. 2. EunJinKyeJin – Oh Eun-jin (left) and Kim has his own carefully constructed getup: oversized knit hat, gold thread banYu Kye-jin, who work at a school in dana, yellow mirrored goggles, superlong Gyeonggi-do, have color-coordinated yellow hoodie, oversized red hoodie on snowboarding outfits. top of that and blue-and-white-checked 3. Boarders and skiers show up for pants. And of course he has custom the “pageant of color” early in the boots, bindings and board. season. Some folks out here are so loaded up with accessories they look like storm troopers sent from another planet – no skin visible whatsoever, and they move around just gliding over the snow.They survey the terrain with their fly-like lenses, their insect mouths hidden by 30,000 won bandanas. Competing in the pageant of color isn’t cheap. At S.T.L. Evolution, a snowboarding shop in Itaewon, a person could get geared up to hang with the most fashionable. But it would come at a serious price. An outfit from S.T.L.’s stock might go something like this: • denim snowboarding jeans lined with fluorescent plaid waterproofing: 200,000 won • pink, yellow and blue Monet-style hoodie: 78,000 won • red, comic-printed down jacket with shell: 420,000 won • oil-slick style goggles: 95,000 won • “I Heart Snowboard” bandana: 28,000 won • fluorescent plaid gloves: 65,000 won • rainbow studded belt: 45,000 won • neon green oversized hat with tassles: 27,000 won
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To look good would cost 958,000 won, and then you’d need a snowboard, boots and bindings (which can easily cost another million).
FOOD & DRINK
5 of the name Barbaresco (the village was once inhabited by barbarians), and the disposition of Piemonte res1. Patrons swirl and sniff their wine idents (they are a hard people, poetic before tasting. but connected to the land), servers 2. The store has 4,000-squarepoured out a few sips of the lightmeters’ worth of bottles for sale. red wine into thin glasses. Olivieri gave a primer on seven wines from 3. World Vine imports a number the region, and everyone eventually of “out of the box” wines from the tasted them. Later on, the patrons Languedoc-Rousillon region of ate a meal of Korean beef marinated France. in Bordeaux wine and trays of Italian 4. Italian cheeses and meats are cheeses and meats. World Vine’s tasting room is a conserved throughout the tasting. trast to the adjoining cellar. Where 5. Eliabel Picquet, a student in the cellar is bright and cool, the tastSuwon, listens as sommelier Enrico ing room is dimly lit and made toasty Olivieri explains an Italian wine. for the occasion. Photos of flowers decorate the walls of the cellar; the tasting room’s walls seem to be made of wine bottles (they’re actually lined with shelves of bottles waiting to be sold). Maps of the wine-growing regions of Italy and a whiteboard covered with notes act as backdrop while Olivieri speaks. It’s a place where a person can get serious about wine. And World Vine has a lot of wine to get serious about. Scheidt, who hails from eastern France, is passionate about his country’s wine. Because World Vine is part of a larger company that imports wine to Korea, he gets to hand-select the varieties they bring to the store.The result is a stock of “out of the box” wines – bottles you can’t find anywhere else in Korea. Many of them come from the prolific Languedoc-Roussillon region of southern France. They’re rich and spicy, Scheidt said, and go well with meat. The World Vine’s cellar-cum-showroom is state-of-the-art. The place is lit with LED bulbs (no heat), the bottles all rest at a slight but specific angle (so that the wine inside just touches the cork), and the room is kept at a chilly 16 to 18 degrees Celsius. The shop even has a humidifier that keeps the cellar as moist as a French basement. Scheidt, who spent six years working as a sommelier in Hong Kong before moving to Korea, said Asian wine drinkers often have a bigger-is-better mentality when it comes to prices. But a more expensive wine doesn’t always mean a more interesting wine, he said. The shop has bottles ranging in price from more than 2 million won (1985 Chateau Cheval Blanc, France) to 16,000 won (2008 Cornellana Merlot, Chile), and all are good and interesting in their own ways, he said. Many of the shop’s bottles are priced in the 35,000 won to 100,000 won range. The Nebiollo tasting the shop held on Jan. 15 cost 98,000 won per person, but prices for tastings vary depending on the wines being sampled. Scheidt and his colleagues plan on expanding the shop into a full wine bar when they get a license from the local government. Until then, patrons can sample the shop’s wines at bimonthly tastings, or take a bottle home.
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Ripe for a new Vine
The Wine Gurus
By Josh Foreman | photos by melissa hubley and josh foreman When Thomas Scheidt talks about wine, you better know your stuff. Otherwise, you might find yourself staring dumbly at the sharpdressed sommelier as he spouts off region names and grape varieties accented in his native French. He speaks about wine with the confidence and fluency of a nerd discussing Battlestar Galactica. Scheidt is one of the in-house wine experts at The World Vine, a new wine store and tasting venue in Gangnam-gu. He and his colleagues – an Italian sommelier and a Korean business manager – have set their sights high with the shop. It has already earned the moniker “ultimate wine store in Korea” from the VinExpo, a major regional trade show. The shop has a 4,000-square-meter, temperature-controlled cellar with hundreds of hard-to-find bottles and a cozy tasting room, where the sommeliers conduct lectures and tastings on different wine varieties. Enrico Olivieri, the shop’s Italian sommelier, gave such a lecture on Jan. 15. Ten patrons sat at a long wood table in the darkened room and listened as he described the culture and wine of the Piemonte region of Italy. After learning about the growing conditions of the nebbiolo grape (they grow best in poor quality soils), the etymology
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Thomas Scheidt One of the in-house Sommeliers at World Vine, Scheidt spent 10 years working for world famous chef Alain Ducasse. He has lived in Hong Kong, London, Paris and Germany, and was drawn to Seoul by its emerging wine market. When he paired Doenjang Chiggae and Sauvignon Blanc, he realized wine and Korean food are a natural match. “It was absolutely amazing,” he said. Enrico Olivieri The Italian sommelier for the shop, Olivieri was a banker before moving into wine.“Wine is more related to quality of life,” he said. He left his home city, Rome, for a more rural life in Sicily. It was there he studied wine management and began thinking of Asia as a possible home. He feels equally comfortable picking out the notes of plum in a glass of Barolo and giving a lecture on its history.
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Getting there: Head east out of Seolleung Station. The World Vine is located on the first floor of the Samsung Financial Plaza building, on the north side of the street. Phone Number: 02-538-8382 February 2011/GROOVE KOREA/71
Burnham’s Burgers (Daegu) hiexpat.com A clean, well-lit place that just happens to serve some of the best sandwiches, hot dogs, chili-cheese-onion fries and burgers in all of Daegu. There are four franchises in Daegu, and if you love Kraze Burger, than you are really going to love Burnham’s burgers. Try the Burnham’s Club Burger -- a towering sandwich of meat, cheese, fried egg and plenty of veggies, including grilled onions (5,900 won). Want a sandwich? Grab the overstuffed BLT, served up on thick toasted rye bread with a quick slap of mayo and mucho taste for just 6,400 won.
Directions: Walk out of Exit 4 at Beomeo Station -- it’ll be on your right.
When life’s a beach, try the curry By Roy Early
OASE Seafood Buffet (Busan) hiexpat.com Had a tough week and ready to splurge? Or looking for a great date spot to enjoy all-you-can eat top quality sushi, sashimi, steak, pizza, dimsum and more? OASE Seafood Buffet offers one of the finest selection of steak, fish, teppanyaki, pasta and desserts in all of Busan, if not Korea. Don’t be put off by the posh digs (located inside the Busan Convention Center). This is quality food in a fun atmosphere and value prices, with lunch priced at 23,000 won, and dinner at 33,000 won. Hours are from 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. for lunch and 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. for dinner. Call to see if you’ll need reservations at 051-248-7777.
Directions: Take Subway Line 1 to Jagalchi Station. Go out of Exit 10, walk straight and take your first right. Continue straight to the end of the block, the OASE Seafood Buffet and Convention Center will be across the street on your left hand side.
Waegook Cook (Gumi) hiexpat.com Looking for some tasty, home-style Western food in Gumi, Gyeongsangbuk-do? Then look no further than the Waegook Cook’s monster steaks and giant burgers! Located a mere 40 minutes from Daegu, the Waegook Cook is a Western restaurant and bar well known for great food at reasonable prices. Aside from their specialty steak and giant burgers, the full menu features a wide variety of pastas, fish, lamb, pork schnitzel and chicken. The bar also hosts awesome parties with dancing, barbecues and more. Or, just perch yourself up at the bar and take in the latest sporting events on one of the many big screen TVs. The restaurant is known for organizing a number of events for expats such as rafting, skiing and beach getaways.
Directions: Waegook Cook is located in Song Jeong Dong at the Hyeonggok / Songjeong-dong Intersection. It is within easy walking distance from City Hall, Lotte Cinema and McDonalds. It’s across from Poseidon Bar, next to Padam Singing Room and 45 degrees across from Hyundai Motors in Hyeonggok-dong. www.waegookcook.com/directionsBus.html | www.waegookcook.com/directionsTrain.html 72/GROOVE KOREA/february 2011
In the past year, popular restaurants from Seoul started making their way to South Korea’s second largest city. One of the most elegant of these establishments, Namaste Taste of India, spirited into Busan without much fanfare. People behind the eatery seemingly preferred to let both the food and intimate atmosphere of the restaurant speak for themselves. Mr. Laxman Bogati opened Seoul’s first Namaste in 2000. With four restaurants already running strong in Seoul, Bogati and business partner Sharma Narayan opened the Haeundae Beach location in the fall of last year. A meal in the Busan location offers solid evidence of their winning approach to Indian dining. Walking down Namaste’s stairs takes patrons into one of Busan’s most aesthetically pleasing places to eat. Pictures fail to do it justice. The dining area is a smooth combination of hand carved wooden elephants the size of Galapagos tortoises, door sized carvings of scenes from the Bhagavad Gita adorn the walls, recessed bays feature statues of various sized deities, and decorating each table are candles and fresh flowers. Bollywood plays on a big screen television, enriching the atmosphere in a way that television rarely does. As far as the food goes, expect something sublimely delicious. In a recent conversation Narayan shared a couple of observations about Korea’s two largest cities and their customers’ preferences.“Busan is much cleaner than Seoul and the people here are relaxed, as if they have nothing to worry about. They seem to always be in a party mood. People in Seoul always seem to be so busy, but being a capital there is a lot to keep people busy.” Narayan’s second observation comes as a bit of a surprise, though. “People in Busan love spicier food more than people in Seoul. In Seoul our most popular dish is prawn butter curry, but in Busan it is chicken vindaloo.” Who would guess that a seafood loving city like Busan would prefer poultry over crustaceans? At the conclusion of the interview Narayan asked if he could share a message with Groove readers and the people of Busan. “Regardless of your favorite Indian dish, thank you for your faith and love in us. I promise we will never let you down and will always work hard for your service.” Sounds like a great offer from someone who came all the way from Delhi to serve the best curry he knows how. Many Busan customers confidently argue that in Busan, his best is the best.
How to get there: Take subway Line 2 to Haeundae Beach and walk towards the beach. Once at the beach turn right and walk five minutes or so. Namaste is on the right, next to the BMW dealership. For more information go to: www.namasterestaurant.co.kr February 2011/GROOVE KOREA/73
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High Street Market: A Cure for Western Wants by Winston Ward No good meat. No good cheese. No good bread. What to do? Enter High Street Market. The Market, which opened in a former wine bar in Itaewon in December, was founded with the intention of combating those comfort food dilemmas facing many foreigners in Seoul.With a selection of hard-to-find meats, cheeses, breads and wines, taking a trip to High Street Market is close to being back in the West. Originally conceived as a meats deli by importer Kip Richardson, it wasn’t until he joined forces with three other men, all experts in their respective areas, that the current form of High Street began to take shape. He drafted the partnership of Dan Shulte, wine importer and connoisseur, Jay Suh, cheese and pairings expert, and Micha Richter, German baker extraordinaire.With their powers combined, High Street Market was ready to sate the cravings of Seoul’s expatriates. The premise of the business is simple, Schulte said. “We carry the highest quality Western food and drink at the best possible price.” “But it’s not just the foreigners,” Richter said. “We’re starting to see more and more Koreans discovering our food culture.” It’s easy to see why. Ranging from premium teas and coffees to growlers of European beers to the ever-elusive ground turkey, High Street has some unusual wares.
High Street’s proprietors add their expertise to the shopping experience. “We’re mostly foreigners ourselves,” Richardson said, “So we think we know best what other foreigners are looking for.” “I am an importer,” Suh added. “I know the products well and I can explain them to the customers. I can help them with recipes and uses for the products. “We’re all specialists and we listen. That’s the key.”
Getting there: Take Line 6 to Itaewon. Take Exit #4 and walk two blocks. High Street Market is on the second floor on the left. Phone number: 02-790-5450
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restaurant & bar Directory Bar Bliss Itaewon Exit 1 (Line 6) make the first right. It’s on the corner. www.picturetrail.com/ barbliss. Price: 12,000-35,000 won. Contemporary cuisine and high-end bar. Great cocktails and patio.
Beer O’Clock Head to Exit 1 of Shinchon Station (Line 2) Go behind the Hyundai Department store towards the 7-11. Turn left on the third street up. 2nd floor. English Menu and staff. #:02333-9733 www.beeroclock.ca. Prices: 8,000-24,000 won. Canadian Sports Bar with great wings, burgers, donairs, and pizza.
Big Rock Brewery Head out Gangnam Station Exit 7 and make the first right and head up the hill past the GS25. www.bigrockbeer.co.kr. Prices: 5,000-15,000 won. Canadian Brewery with a great Sunday Brunch and good pub fare.
Don Valley Exit 3 of Itaewon Station (Line 6) below the Coffee Bean. English Menu and staff. #:7962384. Price: 9,000 to 25,000 won. Korean Beef and Pork Barbeque and home-style favorites. Try the Wine Marinated Pork Belly.
Gogitjip Out Noksapyeong Exit 2 (Line 6) and walk straight along the street with the kimchi pots. English menu and staff. #:02-796-5528. Nightly bbq specials, generous servings, and open late.
H-Diner Located to the side of Starbucks near the Capitol Hotel. English Menu. #:02-796-6967. Price: 6,000-20,000 won. American diner sandwiches, chili’s and entrees.
Le Quartier Latin Go out Sinchon Station Exit 3 (Line 2) and walk straight until you get to the big church. Make a right and walk about 500 meters. Look for the large French Flag. English Menu and Staff. #:02-333-9874. Prices: 4,000-26,000 won. Authentic French Bistro with reasonable prices.
Naked Bar and Grill Line 6 Itaewon Station Exit 1 walk straight and make a right at KFC. Naked Bar and Grill is next to B1 on the left. English menu and staff. #:02-794-4225. Prices: 5,000 to 40,000 won. The perfect after party place with great food and drinks.
Naked Grill Naked Grill is located at Yongsan-gu, Hannam Dong 29-21 towards the U.N. Village. English menu and staff. #:02-749-4225. Prices: 4,000-12,000 won. Tacos and homestyle American favorites for eat-in or take-out.
Petra Restaurant Kebab House Exit 3 of Noksapyeong Station (Line 6) and up the overpass. It’s located to the right. English Menu and staff. #:02-790-4433. Prices: 5,000-18,000 won. Authentic Arab food made by a certified chef. Excellent Falafel, hummus, and Sultana style lamb and chicken.
Pizza Peel Go out Exit 4 of Itaewon Station and walk past the Rotiboy and make a left into Market Alley. English Menu available — davelauckner@hotmail.com. Itaewon’s Newest Pizza Shop serving fresh pies daily.
Roofers Go out Itaewon Station Exit 3 and make a right at the Fire Station. It’s on floor of the building across from the Foreign Food Mart. #02-749-2970. An artsy, spacious bar with good food. They have an outside roof that is used for brunch and performances.
Rookies Ichon (Line 4) Exit 5 and walk in the direction of Yongsan Station. Pass train tracks to your left. It’ll be on your left. English menu and staff. #:02-792-3383. Price: 4500-22,000 won. A sports bar with creative bar food and burgers.
Sam Ryan’s Bar Go out Itaewon Exit 1 (Line 6) and make the first right. It’s at the end, above 3-Alley Pub. English menu and staff. #: 02-749-7933 www.samryans.com. Price: 5,000-30,000 won. Sports Bar with 8 big screens. BBQ pork ribs on Tuesdays and great burgers all the time.
Sanchae House (산채집) Go up around Namsan Mountain from Myeong-dong Road. It is near the Namsan Cable Cars and the restaurant N’Cucina. English menu. #:02-755-8775. Price: 8,000-25,000 won. Savory bossam and fresh leaf bibimbap.
Suji’s Itaewon (near Noksapyeong Station), around the corner past McDonald’s on your left, 2nd floor above the Skinfood store. English Spoken and English Menu Available. #02 797 3698. Deli sandwiches starting from 12,000 won. Other main & brunch dishes starting from 10,000 won. Happy Hour weekdays 5 to 7p.m. Suji’s continues to remind us of some American-style home cooking by introducing deli sandwiches to Korea through its relaxed style of restaurant food.
Spice Table Go straight out of Exit 2 from Itaewon Station, turn left onto the first street (corner of Helios), Spice Table is on the left (2nd Floor) and across from Los Amigos. English spoken and English Menu Available. #:02-796-0509. Price: 7,000-25,000 won (Cuisine), 8,000 won Lunch Special Menu, 40,000-90,000 won (Wine) Stylish Asian food to Itaewon using a fresh and flavorful approach.
Two Broz. Go out Exit 3 from Itaewon Station and you’ll find it on the right. English spoken and English Menu available. #:02-790-0610. Price 5,500-10,000 won. Gourmet Burgers, Fries, and Hotdogs in the heart of Seoul’s International District.
Wolfhound Go out Itaewon Station Exit 4 and turn left to go down the hill and make the first right. English Spoken and English Menu Available: 02-749-7941. Price 10,000-20,000 won for food. The best Fish-N-Chips and comfort food in an Irish Pub atmosphere.
Yaletown 400 meters from Sinchon Subway Exit number 2. Make a left at Beans and Berries. English Menu. #:02-333-1604. Price: 5,000-18,0000 won. Great Pub fare such as poutine, burgers, and nachos.
76/GROOVE KOREA/february 2011
February 2011/GROOVE KOREA/77
oo
korea
listings
Seoul Stitch ‘n Bitch: This club has a crafting get-together the 1st and 3rd Sunday of every month in Haebangchon, Seoul, Please contact seoulsnb@gmail. com or check www.seoulsnb.blogspot.com
Ice Hockey- Interested in playing with experienced and competitive ice hockey players? Join Korea’s original ex-pat hockey team, the Geckos Glaciers Sunday nights at 8pmin Anyang. Contact Charles at charfull@yahoo.com
Sinchon Toastmasters Club: Looking for new members, both Korean & foreign, wanting to improve their public speaking and leadership skills in an atmosphere where members can also have fun interacting together. Please contact Dong Wan at: intervie@naver.com
H a n d b a l l - Te a m H a n d b a l l - O l y m p i c Handball - We often organize friendly games against Korean teams during evenings or weekends. Male or female players, beginners, intermediate or advanced players... everybody is welcome! Just email SEB at handballinkorea@gmail.com or visit www. handballinkorea.org
Suwon Scuba Club: A dive club close to Osan Air Base and Camp Humphreys, we teach all Padi courses and run regular tours for fun dives to the East Sea. Along with dives, the club has a major social element with outstanding BBQ's and parties on each tour. Please contact Nic at: nichofberg@yahoo.com, 010 3123 2061 or www.suwonscuba.com
St Pats FC - seoulstpats@gmail.com Seoul Saturday Soccer League - Looking for additional referees, players, goal keepers, new teams, for its Spring season, starting Feb/28th/09. Please apply to soccersaturday@hotmail.com and leave your phone contacts for more information.
international clubs Investor & Real Estate Club Meetings Every Monday @ Watts On Tap. Discussions on international dating, relationships, investments. Discuss investments with ROI higher than KOSPI average. Anyone with valuable or critical comments wins cash & prizes! Contact 010-5552-5568
Gaelic Club - If you are looking for a physical and competitive sport, while also wanting some craic while you are at it, then check out Irish football, aka Gaelic. It is a mixture of soccer, basketball and rugby. Male and female teams meet frequently for training, games and social events.www.seoulgaels.com
Royal Asiatic Society (RAS) – This non-profit organization offers lectures about Korea’s history and culture, while also offering tours to various locations around the country. Please contact raskb@kornet.net or visit www.raskb.com
Touch Rugby - contact seoultouch@gmail.com and more information can be found at touchtagrugby. blogspot.com
The American Women's Club (AWC) now meets at the Sofitel Ambassador Hotel at 9:30 AM on the first Tuesday of each month. www.awckorea.org.
International Taekwondo club - looking for new members interested in taekwondo and cultural exchange on Sat& Sun 4:30PM ~ 8:30 PM near Konkuk Univ. Email to tm3ym@hotmail.com or visit to http:// cafe.daum.net/arirangtaekwon
Disc-Golf in Seoul - Looking for something different to do and want to be more active in Korea? We are always looking for new people to play disc-golf every Saturday. contact discgolf@naver.com The Korea Lacrosse Association would like to involve more non-Koreans, with or without lacrosse experience, to participate in the growing tournaments and leagues. Please contact by emaiil parkpc@ lacrosse.or.kr or 02-743-5291 Football Club - Gecko's FC is looking for players, preferably with experience, for the start of the new season.We practice regularly, play games on Sundays and take road trips once or twice a season. Please contact geckosfc@yahoo.com Crystal Palace Football/Soccer Team – We are recruiting players of all abilities to join our games played in central Seoul. Please contact Alex at harryhowlett@hotmail.com or 010 3040 6114 Seoul Survivors RFC -Seoul Survivors has been around for over 20 years. We practice regularly and play a variety of different teams in friendlies, competitions and on tours. For more information, please contact Ian at koreanianr@yahoo.co.uk or 016-897-6282 T h e S e o u l S u n d ay F o o t b a l l L e a g u e , a competitive amateur expat league, is looking for referees to officiate matches in Seoul and surrounding areas on Sundays. No official qualifications are necessary, but you should have a good knowledge of the game. Pay is 70,000 won per game. Also, if you are interested in playing, then we can also find you a team. Please contact: seoulfootball@hotmail.com Seoul Sisters Women’s Rugby Club: Looking for new members, both Korean and foreign, to grow the in-house league. No experience is necessary and there are great coaches to get you up to speed quickly. contact seoulsistersrugby@yahoo.com or check out www.ssrfccom Lokomotiv Goyang Football Club: Playing games in both Seoul and Goyang, we are a football team always looking for new members. Please contact lokogoyang@yahoo.co.uk or check www.lokomotivgoyang.com
clubs Free Bellydance Classes in English in Itaewon nights and weekends. Over 20 classes a week. Learn an art, awaken your body, make friends, eliminate stress, pamper yourself! http://eshebellydancer.com Bellydance Classes in Seoul Tues nights & Thurs mornings. Belly dance is an energizing, low-impact exercise suitable for men & women of all ages. Reduce stress, improve balance & posture, strengthen & tone muscles, develop grace, reduce weight, and increase self-confidence! bellydancekorea@hotmail.com Korea Latin & Salsa Korea L atin and Salsa welcomes new members of all ages and experience levels for parties, salsa lessons in English and Spanish, trips, friends, and fun. Please visit our website KoreaLatinAndSalsa.com Seoul Artists Network (SAN) have a bi-monthly open mic that takes place at Woodstock in Itaewon on the first and third sundays of each month. www.
78/GROOVE KOREA/february 2011
info@groovekorea.com just a minute from Sinchon Station. Please contact koreanmovieclub@yahoo.com or www.geocities. com/koreanmovieclub
teams Seoul Saturday Soccer League - is looking for additional Referees, Players, Goal Keepers and New Teams for its Spring Season 2011, starting Feb. 26. Please apply to soccersaturday@hotmail.com and leave your phone contacts to call you for more info.
Korea Ultimate Players Association – If you have been searching for some hot disc action in Korea, come out to play ultimate every Sun with the Korea Ultimate Players Association. Please visit www. koreaultimate.net
email:
The Australia & New Zealand Assocation (ANZA) meets at the Grand Hyatt Hotel at 9:30AM on the third Tues of the month. For more information, p le a se v i si t w w w. a nz a kore a .co m or eve n t s @ anzakorea.com purevolume.com/jeremytoombs | www.myspace.com/ jeremytoombs Writing Club Looking to form/join a writing group. Meetings would likely be on the weekends, twice a month. My focus is on short fiction/prose at the moment, but I would be open to non-fiction/longer works as well. email Bryan at scriptingends@gmail.com Lodge Han Yang #1048 the oldest Masonic lodge in Korea welcomes all visiting and returning brethren to attend our regularly scheduled meeting every second and fourth Wednesday. Contact lodgehanyang@ hotmail.com for additional information Seoul Fencing Club — Seoul Grand Park in Ichondong. Please go to www.seoulfencing.com or email seoul.fencing.club@gmail.com. The Seoul Book Club, a new book club. We plan to meet once a month read and various works in English and then share and discuss our impressions, all are welcome. Please contact Sean at 010-3648-2861 or stm@iis.or.kr KH Toastmasters is a fun, supportive environment to learn public speaking and leadership skills in English. Our group is a dynamic mix of foreigners and Koreans, and we meet 8pm every Tuesday in Hyehwa. Guests always welcome. A map of our meeting location can be found at: khtoastmasters.com Sherlock Holmes Club will meet every second Tuesday day at It aewon, 7. 30 pm. ( Venue to be announced) A story from the canon, a short talk on Holmesiana, a Holmes quiz, and a Holmes movie: serious-fun. Email Morrison at morry _lee@yahoo. com.au, or phone 010-6376-3965. Southside Hash House Harriers: Do you like to walk, run and drink beer? Well then, come and join the Seoul branch of this world-wide club that meets in a different location south of the Han River each Sunday at 11:00am. All levels of fitness are welcome, just bring along your sneakers and a sense of humor! Please contact Countess at smcrae77@yahoo.com Section 8 Gaming: we meet Sundays in the Seoul area to play a variety of pen and paper role playing games, including Dungeons and Dragons. Contact section8gaming@gmail.com. Toastmasters International, every Thursday Night, near GyeongBuk Palace Subway station, for more information visit the following websites: www. toastmasters.org www.seoultmclub.net or Contact us at: profirving2001@yahoo.com Belly Dance Classes in English. Learn fine muscle control of the torso, arms and hips, and interpretation of intricate music in English with an interesting group of women. Classes on Tuesday nights and Saturday mornings. All levels welcome. Contact eshe@eshebellydancer.com. Texas Hold Em in Ilsan - Weekly Hold Em throw down at cool bar in La Festa, Ilsan Tues & Thurs around 10pm & Sundays 7pm. Contact mrleon29@ gmail.com I'm all-in. May the flop be with you!
B a z z e r ’ s B u d d i e s D o g Wa l k i n g C l u b Namsan, Han River and other outdoor areas around Seoul. A fun way to get out on a Sunday afternoon and meet new friends. Send an email to www.bazzerdog. com to find out when and where we will meet. The Original Seoul Toastmasters Club Are you interested in joining a club of professionals working to develop communication and leadership skills? Meet new friends, both Korean and foreign, at the original Seoul Toastmasters Club. Please contact Joohun Park at jhpamc@hanmail.net and 011 9279 8299 or visit www.seoultmclub.net Seoul PMS H3 – This is a running club for women that is also part of the Hash House Harriers. We meet one Saturday af ternoon a month and are looking for other women who like to run, walk, drink and/or socialize. Contact msthanx4nothin@gmail. com or visit www.myspace.com/seoul_pms_h3 Karaoke Club - Join a karaoke club in Seoul with people who love to sing, whether you sound like Frank Sinatra or Frankenstein! We meet once a month. Please contact seoulsing@gmail.com Are you a vegetarian or vegan in Korea? The Seoul Veggie Club meets twice a month to check out veggie-friendly restaurants and enjoy picnics. Koreans, foreigners, vegetarians and non-vegetarians are all welcome. "Facebook group Seoul veggie club" MEETinSEOUL – Come hang out with a large free, all-volunteer social group. There are no membership fees, just pay for your own cost of the events (movies, dinners etc). www.meetin.org/city/MEETinSEOUL/ Yongsan Kimchi Hash House Harriers - If you enjoy running, walking and trekking throughout Seoul as well as drinking beer, then come join us every Saturday at 10 a.m. For more information, please visit www.freewebs.com/ykhhh (then go to "hareline") or malgosia02@yahoo.com Hiking Club – The International Hikers Club meets every Sat. For more information, please contact sihclub@gmail.com Mostly Over 40 – This club meets for lunch on Sunday a month and, as the name depicts, consists of people who are mostly over 40. For more information, contact mostlyover40@yahoogroups.com CWG, ‘Conversations with God,’ discussion and study group is open for anyone who is interested in talking about the themes and implications of this book. Contact markyansen@yahoo.com or 011 9990 4291 Artists – We are interested in starting an artists’ collective in Seoul. Are you a visual artist interested in t ak ing p ar t in a group ex hibit ion? Cont ac t seoulcreative@yahoo.comForeigner/Korean Friendship Club: Our purpose is to meet at a bar on Saturdays to meet new people, introduce new cultures, share thoughts and have fun. Contact yupggiklub@ hotmail.com or check out seoulcircle.com
Interested in Theatre? Seoul Players is an all-volunteer community theatre group which does two English language shows a year. For more info, please email seoulplayers@gmail.com
Fusion Art: Seeking members involved in various arts (painting, drawing, illustration, sculpture, photos and more) for regular meetings and exhibitions to share information about colors and opinions. Please contact bakerycorner@yahoo.co.kr, chubbyhubby@hanmail. net or 010-6423-6037
Interested in Surfing? There are trips throughout the winter to discover Korea’s secret spots and great waves. Please cont act Nathan or Jack at Seoulboardriders@hotmail.com
Korean Movie Club: With English subtitles, people are now able to enjoy and understand recent Korean (and some non-Korean) movies and dramas in front of a 120-inch screen. The club is located
The British Association of Seoul (BASS) meets at the Seoul Club from 10 AM to Noon on the fourth Tues of the month. For more information, please contact basseoul@yahoo.co.uk The Canadian Women’s Club (CWC) meets the second Tues of the month & also participate in a group activity the fourth Wed of the month. For more information, contact sujaybee@yahoo.com Club Italia hosts a lunch every Sun at 1 PM at the Franciscan School in Hannam-dong. The lunch costs KRW 15,000 and everyone is welcome. For more information, please visit www.clubitalia.or.kr Career Women in Korea (CWIK) at the New Seoul Hotel on the third Wed evening of the month. For more information, please visit www.cwik21.com or contact career_women_in_korea@yahoo.com. Th e S e o u l I n t l . Wo m e n ’s A s so c i a t i o n (SIWA) meets at the Sofitel Ambassador Hotel at 9:30 AM on the third Wed of the month. For more information, please visit www.siwapage.com Overseas Chinese Women’s Club (OCWC) meets monthly and is open to all women who would like to make new friends, enjoy good food and learn about Chinese culture. Chinese is spoken, but interpretation is available. For more information, please visit our website at ocwckr.spaces.live.com or contact ocwckr@hotmail.com
Announcements Navah Bellydance Company - Looking for performers with dance experience or who are willing to train with Eshe for events in and out of Seoul. eshebellydancer@hotmail.com The Ang Dating Daan Korea Chapter conducts free Bible Study and distributes DVDs of Bible Expositions of the only sensible preacher in our time — Brother Eli Soriano. If you want free copies of Bible Expositions and hear free Bible Study, please call 010-5737-2561 / 010-3004-0817 Amnesty G48 is an official group of Amnesty International Korea. This group is made up of both Korean and foreign volunteers who actively take part in the movement to promote and protect human rights for all people around the world. E-mail Tom for further details @ amnestyseoul@gmail.com. All Native English Speakers, Kyopos, and Koreans. Proficient in English are welcome to join our weekly bible study/fellowship meetup held every saturday at 3 pm. We seek to delve deeply into scripture. Contact Info. 011-359-1317 Bellydance lessons in English in Itaewon at the Well Being Studio by Eshe on Tuesdays and Saturdays. Absolute beginners welcome. Awaken your body and spirit with this ancient healing art. Det ails at w w w.eshebellydancer.com or email eshebellydancer@hotmail.com Bible Study Enthusiasts - Weekly Bible study for Native English Speakers. We are having a weekly Bible Study every Saturday, at 7:30 PM. Everyone is welcome! Call me at 011-359 -1317 or email homechurch-314@meetup.com or homechurch. meetup.com/314/ for further information. Seoul Global Center - Seoul Help Center for foreigners has been renamed and relocated to the Korea Press Foundation Building floor.
Horoscope | February 2011 Aries
Libra
This is the time, dear Aries, to embrace more of life with lucky Jupiter in your sign until June, which only happens every twelve years. It’s an excellent period for starting new long-term projects, and for others to see you in a very positive light. February is a sociable month for you, one in which being part of a team brings you the most success. Share your time, ideas, and expertise now. Networking efforts pay off, higher ups are pleased with your work, and your inner confidence comes shining through.
This is an excellent month for romance, pleasure, and creativity, dear Libra. Your powers of attraction run exceptionally high this month. Romantic feelings are stirred. Some Libras will be entering partnerships in the first half of 2011, and while you are feeling a little hesitant to throw yourself into something new whole-heartedly much of February, by the last week, your heart is likely to catch up. Artists and hobbyists will have an especially creative and exciting month. Super energy is with you for starting new projects after the 3rd.
Taurus
Scorpio
You’re caring a lot more about your public or professional image in February, dear Taurus. If there are problems with authority figures, co-workers, or your reputation, you are likely to take things to heart, and this sensitivity might get you in the middle of some conflicts this month. You are bound to be working exceptionally hard, and your pride is wrapped up in what you do. It’s a time for showing your competence. Still, the urge for adventure and new experiences is strong, and you’re likely to indulge yourself in your time off.
February is a strong month for working on projects around the house, and even on the house, dear Scorpio. Renovations, redecorating, and making improvements that allow more freedom as well as organization and comfort on the home front can have longlasting results. There might be some tension with family members this month, so you’ll need to be especially sensitive. A partner is especially communicative and open. You are now enjoying a cycle in which you find more joy in the work you do, expanded job opportunities, and improved health.
Gemini
Sagittarius
You are entering an exceptionally friendly period of your life, dear Gemini. The major key to your success now lies in the expansion of your social circle or network. Sharing your expertise with associates, free of charge, can aid you in furthering your career goals, and can boost your personal popularity. You are filled with ideas for future projects, and while some of them are likely to pay off down the road, it’s better not to spread yourself too thin. Instead, focus on just a few projects and give your all to them.
You are entering an excellent period of your life for pleasure, creativity, romance, and self-expression, dear Sagittarius.This cycle lasts until June, so take advantage. It’s a wonderful time for discovering or rediscovering creative hobbies and artistic talents. It’s also strong for socializing, partying, and romantic attraction. Your confidence in yourself is on an upswing. February is a month for the pursuit of pleasure, communicating, and learning. The only caution will be to avoid overspending. Your desire for comfort through personal possessions as well as for entertainment is strong now, and you may be tempted to borrow from the future.
Cancer You are entering a stellar period for your career and reputation, dear Cancer. You may receive recognition for the work you do, as others are admiring your work ethic. Higher ups are looking upon you very favorably, making it an excellent time for expanding professionally. Your intimate life speeds up in February. There can be some conflicts having to do with money, particularly with a partner or ex-partner. However, your reasoning and negotiating skills step up a notch this month, and this helps you to resolve problems quickly and fairly.
Leo Relationships are your priority this month, dear Leo, although there can be some conflicts to deal with before you can move forward with a clean slate. Consider higher education options or other forms of useful training at this point in your life, in order to improve your professional skills so that you can better take advantage of the stellar opportunities to expand your career coming in the latter part of the year. You may not be very hard-working this month, as there can be restlessness for new experiences and impatience with routine.
Virgo February is a month for energetic work, analysis, re-organization, and fixing problem areas in your life, dear Virgo. However, it’s also a time when your powers of attraction run high and others are seeing you for your more charming qualities.The desire for deeper connections is strong now. It’s a good time for implementing health and fitness programs and for working enthusiastically on projects, but not the best month for financial stability. Try to avoid making quick decisions about your money, particularly when it comes to sharing or lending it.
Capricorn This month, both career goals and romantic pursuits are clearer, dear Capricorn. You are attracting positive attention on a personal level, particularly when it comes to love, and on a professional level. Job offers could surface. Your drive for security is strong in February, and you’ll be working hard at making your life more comfortable. You are in a cycle that brings more joy to your home and family life, and this runs until June. It’s a strong period for redecorating, renovating, or even moving to a more spacious home.
Aquarius February is an excellent month for moving ahead with personal plans, becoming more active and involved, communications, learning, and competitive undertakings, dear Aquarius. If you’ve been hesitant about starting a new project or plan of action, which is very likely, you’ll be ready this month to go forward. You are more assertive, energetic, and decisive in February, and your personal presence is strong. Others readily back you and have your personal interests, agenda, and happiness in mind.Those of you taking courses or studying should have added success this month.
Pisces For most of February, dear Pisces, you are likely to be a little more withdrawn than usual, preferring time to yourself for reflection and rest. It’s not the best time for demanding or competitive activities. However, the last week of February brings a shot in the arm of energy, dynamism, and confidence. If you’ve used your period of rest well, you’ll find that you can push forward with personal plans successfully at this time. Money matters are strong, but borrowing from, or lending to, a friend may not be wise just now.
February 2011/GROOVE KOREA/79
konglish of the month runner-ups
Raim Williams
Winner: Sean Conolly The winner will receive a food or entertainment voucher
worth W50,000
Please email your entries to: info@groovekorea.com Crossword
66 Singer Cherry 67 Prepare for publication 68 “The Way We __” 69 Disparage 70 Disney dog 71 Plaintiff
Across
1 Kemo __ 5 Jogging gait 9 Start of Caesar’s saying 14 Nutritive mineral 15 Alaskan outpost 16 Grinding tooth 17 19th century British statesman 19 Tuckered out 20 Subatomic particle 21 Cows, old-style 23 Highway division 24 Straddling 26 Thus far 28 Scintilla 30 Start on the links 33 Jerry Herman musical
80/GROOVE KOREA/february 2011
36 Sack 38 Singer Lennox 39 Spanish gold 40 Bomber attribute 42 Film container 43 Capital of Belarus 45 Missile berth 46 Pot contents 47 “The Player” director 49 Actress Hedren 51 You’ve got to hand it to some runners 53 Plunder 57 Round ender 59 Architect __ van der Rohe 61 Bygone 62 Australian export 64 Large needlepoint stitch
Down 1 Greek s 2 Van Gogh residence 3 Crow 4 Approve 5 It can move mountains 6 Dilapidated tenements 7 Present starter 8 Singer Marie 9 “__ Believer” (Monkees hit) 10 Author McCullough 11 Suddenly 12 Chief 13 River to Donegal Bay 18 Cut 22 Superlative suffix 25 Foolish 27 Slangy affirmative 29 Venomous snake 31 Brava maker 32 Marshes 33 NYC museum 34 Seed covering 35 European high spot 37 Oval 40 Card game for three 41 Sun hat 44 Not so big 46 Waves 48 __ de plume 50 Raindrop sound 52 Actor Davenport 54 Farewell 55 Art category 56 Word of welcome 57 Attachment 58 Fencing sword 60 Mother of the Valkyries 63 Bashful 65 Pigpen
Cassie Andrews & Liz Brownsword sudoku
The aim of the puzzle is to insert numbers in the boxes to satisfy only one condition: each row, column and 3x3 box must contain one of each digit from 1-9. Theres is a unique solution, which can be found by logical thinking.
February 2011/GROOVE KOREA/81
itaewon directorY Chiropractic Clinic (1F) International Clinic (5F) Global Village Center (5F) MJ Custom Tailor (8F) La Bocca M Lounge Between Healing Hands (3F) casAntonio (2F) Los Amigos
Marakech Night Ole Stompers Rock Spot
Helios
Club After — 02)792-2232 Club After Inspired by “art informal”- embrace the unconventional and don’t sweat differences “enjoy life like a dog, dance like a bitch.” www.clubafter.co.kr copacabana — 02-796-1660 Come to COPACABANA where a mere W29,000 gets you all-you-can-eat of the best Brazilian barbeque and buffet in Korea.
Queen Fire Station
Club After
Don Valley
Unique Travel
Gecko’s Garden 7 Bonji
TMAS
Seoul Pub/ Nashville Jonny Dumpling
Wolfhound
MARAKECH NIGHT — 02-795-9441 Moroccan & Arabic restaurant offering authentic dishes, atmosphere and music. Wine, beer, juices and yogurt drinks are also available. Enjoy flavored tobacco from traditional shisha pipe.
Copacabana Loca Loca/ Bar 22 (2F)
Outback
Starbucks
club daY last fridaY
Harlem
Zibe
NB2
NB1
Oi
Tinpan 2 Ting Tings Brix
Buy The Way
M2 Yonsei Miplus Dental Clinic
Gr8 Hookah/ Ska
Jokerred Tinpan 1 Myungwolgwan Gogo’s/FF Ska2 Agio Sub-zero VIA Cargo
of the month
360@ The Liquid
Addiction Castle Praha
groove korea
Photo courtesy of VIA
McDonald’s — 02-790-6413 Open 24 hours with breakfast served from 5 – 11 AM
Bar Bliss
3 Alley Pub/ Sam Ryan’s
Nomad’s Pool
LA CIGALE MONTMARTRE — 02-796-1244 Contemporary French cuisine in cozy and intimate surroundings.with a classy yet casual feel, it has a variety of food which includes a range of mussels. Its terrace brings an outdoor feel yet warm & dry comfort to accommodate the weather.
LOCO LOCA — 02-796-1606 Enjoy Salsa music and dancing in the vibrant atmosphere. Freshly baked pizzas with Latino flavors and the very best South American wines will be served.
Unit@Bluespirit
El Plato
Cafe / Bar Club Restaurant Clinic
JONNY DUMPLING — 02-790-8830 Enjoy different styles of healthy, handmade dumplings made fresh everyday. Meat as well as vegetarian dumplings are available.
LA PLANCHA — 02-790-0063 Spanish grill restaurant includes combination platters along with al la carte side dishes. Feast inside in the warm and cozy atmosphere or sit out on the plant covered terrace.
Gecko’s Terrace B1
hongdae directorY
Don Valley Korean Restaurant — 02-796-2384 Conveniently located in the heart of Itaewon, this spacious restaurant accommodates 120 guests for delicious dinners and large parties. Open 24 hours everyday, it specializes in “Korean BBQ Done Right” - grilled beef ribs, bulgogi and bibimbap as well as many others.
Roofers The Loft Pub Panchos Evan Tattoo Jun Pharmacy
9 Timo
Chiropractic Clinic — 02-798-1446 American and Australian trained, doctors are fluent in English, Spanish & Korean.
Old Town
Two Broz Rocky Mountain Tavern Sortino’s
Petra
Spice Table Tiffany Nail La Cigale Montmartre Hollywood/Spy Smokey Saloon
Bungalow
Bungalow Tropical Lounge — 02-793-2344 This bar and restaurant sets the standards of unique excellence to higher levels - decked out with bamboo, sand, pools, swings, a fireplace and more.
Panchos — 02-792-4746 A Mexican bar with darts, pool, television and a wide selection of music. A spacious setting with big windows overlooking Itaewon’s main street.
Urban
La Plancha
Dillinger’s Bar
groove korea
Photo by Ronny Kick
Bu ddh a’s Be Ist lly anb ul Ta co Ta co
Cup & Bowl Bistro Corner Berlin Tony’s Aussie Bar Hey Day Cafe Petra Itaewon Animal Hospital
Rocky Mountain Tavern — 010-5775-2327 With a Canadian feel throughout, RMT attracts a crowd for sports coverage, trivia, wings, weekend brunch & live music. SKY Chiropractic & Massage — 02-749-4849 US trained and certified chiropractors and massage therapists. SKY Wellness Center integrates chiropractic and massage to correct your body’s imbalances and achieve optimum health and wellness.
What The Book Post Office
Queen Queen welcomes ALL people for who they are and creates an open environment where different people from various backgrounds can cross barriers and unite as one community while having the time of their lives in the ultimate party kingdom!
McDonald’s
TMAS — 02-796-7976 Total Martial Arts System. Designed for FOREIGNERS and lessons in English. learn true martial arts, training and spending time together like a family.
All-American Diner The Pizza Peel
Club Volume
Unique Travel — 02-792-0606 A travel agency in the heart of Itaewon where English, Japanese and Korean are spoken. Wolfhound Irish Pub — 02-749-7971 This two storey Irish pub has a wide variety of imported beers, exceptional food and a great atmosphere. Guinness and Kilkenny on tap. 3 Alley Pub — 02-749-3336 Friendly place with quality service. Trivia Night every Thurs.
82/GROOVE KOREA/february 2011
February 2011/GROOVE KOREA/83
pic of the
month Winner
“Korean Winter”
Jennifer Kerr
Date: Dec. 30, 2010 Location: Bundang These pojangmachas always accommodate very interesting groups and individuals. This was one of the first heavy snowfalls this winter, but it didn’t deter this guy from enjoying a quick midnight snack while still using his cell phone.
march challenge: “Bokeh”
Ian Morton
runner-ups
Adam Nicholson
Bokeh is the aesthetic quality of blur to the out of focus areas of an image. At times, it feels like a gimmick. When it’s done right, everyone likes it. This challenge is accessible to everyone pretty much anywhere from the coldest streets at night, to a warm cafe or even your own room. Open your lens up and have at it. We like strong images with depth. We’re not looking for shots of just balls of color. To get away from that, bokeh should not be the main subject of your image. Rather, it should be a strong supporting element of your frame.
Images must have been taken since Jan. 1, 2011. Comp closes Feb. 19 at midnight.
The Groove spc challenge The SPC is an online community of expats in Korea who are interested in learning about and discussing the art of photography. But ‘Seoul Photo Club’ is a bit of a misnomer - membership is free to anyone, anywhere in Korea. Together with Groove Korea we run the photo competition. Each month, a themed challenge is announced in Groove
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Korea and at the SPC. Past themes include such topics as Repetition, The Sun and Spring Portrait. Just submit your interpretation at the SPC or via email to have a shot at having your pic published here in Groove Korea and winning the monthly prize. There are two ways to enter. Just join the Seoul Photo Club on Flickr - www.flickr.com/groups/ seoulphotoclub - and add your pic to the competition, or email your entry to aaron. raisey@gmail.com. You must provide
your name and contact details plus a 50-150 word description telling us the what/where/ when of the photo. Entries must be at least 2000 pixels on the longest side and 300dpi to meet printing requirements, and be taken no more than two weeks prior to the announcement of the challenge.
For further info, visit the Seoul Photo Club on Flickr.
guest column
Michael Breen has worked in Korea as a journalist and public relations consultant for 25 years.A former correspondent for The Washington Times and The Guardian newspapers, he was the president of the Seoul Foreign Correspondents Club for three years. He is currently the chairman of Insight Communications, a public relations firm. He is the author of ‘The Koreans’ (1999) and ‘Kim Jong-il: North Korea’s Dear Leader’ (2004). He was made an honorary citizen of Seoul in 2001. He has a regular Friday column in the Korea Times and periodically writes for other publications.
the pyongyang merry-go-round By Michael Breen
T
he sinking of the naval vessel Cheonan and the artillery barrage of one of South Korea’s islands near the North Korean coast turned the long cold war between the two Koreas hotter in 2010 than it had been for a long time. In fact, I can’t remember a time when people were so braced for conflict as when the South held its war exercises despite threatened retaliation. We’d seen clashes at sea before and gunfire across the DMZ. But in recent decades, South Koreans have been more afraid of a US overreaction than of anything the North might do. In 1994, for example, an emotional we’ll-turn-Seoul-into-a-lake-of fire outburst by a North Korean delegate at Panmunjeom was taken literally and led to talk in Washington about taking out the North’s nuclear facilities. But this time, it was different. The shelling of homes and military facilities on Yeonpyeong Island was a brazen attack. The explosions, caught on camera, and plumes rising from the debris infuriated the populace and sparked global excitement which then fed on itself. The BBC went live. CNN correspondent Stan Grant told the world the
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Despite all the talk, none of this matters much. U.S.-South Korean optimism that a new policy or approach can actually change anything is naïve and just causes confusion.
two Koreas were on “the brink of war.” Several foreign companies withdrew their people from South Korea and banned travel through Seoul. Embassies dusted off evacuation plans for their nationals and for the first time wondered whether the long-standing reliance on US forces to get everyone out was realistic. Citizens discussed their options with their families – to stay put or leave – should the worst happen. But we were not on the brink of war. We were where we have always been – on the usual merry-goround with North Korea of talk, let’s not talk, take that, now let’s talk about holding talks. Neither side wants war, so this will not stop until there is a strategic shift, most likely involving a leadership change and new national strategy in the North. Within this context, occasionally something changes that gets everyone chattering. In the recent past the U.S. talked tough and the South talked reconciliation. Right now, it’s kind of switched over. Despite all the talk, none of this matters much. U.S.-South Korean optimism that a new policy or approach can actually change anything is naïve and just causes confusion. Where are we now? I believe we will soon be back on the path of having talks about returning to talks. Then we will return to talks and the North Koreans will find some way to walk out, and it’ll start again.