Groove43 may web by Groove Korea Archives

groove korea

may ‘10 | issue 43

comedy

photos aaron raisey

bringing the funny art

vincent sung

books peter liptak

brian aylward

luke martin todd zitin bolam yoo ryan goessl

RescueNK ‘art Soup’ The KNFL

game changers Expats in Korea Taking a Slightly Different Path

groove korea

may 2010 | issue 43

game changers

38-59 Cover photo by: dylan glodby To contact GROOVE Korea for advertising, submissions or general comments, please email info@groovekorea.com or call 010-7560-5552 Disclaimer: The articles are the sole property of Groove Korea. No reproduction is permitted without the express written consent of Groove Korea. The opinions expressed in the magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher. Publisher: Sean Choi and MJ Kim Chief Consultant: Ju-han Kim Editor-in-Chief: Tracey Stark Managing Editor: Adam Walsh Creative Director: Dan Thwaits Issue Date: Vol. 5, Issue 5 - May 1, 2010 Registration Date: January 25, 2008 Registration No. Seoul Ra 11806

Questions or comments please email us at:

info@groovekorea.com or call:

010-5348-0212

inside

grooveDining

22-33

| 60-71

zelen

Calendar of Events

seoulvibes

bars|cafes

music

Vidulgi Ooyoo

ska sucks

sports

busan

www.koreabeat.com

KOREA BEAT

may

the blog for korean news in english translation

Woman Becomes Trapped in own Washing Machine

The South Incheon Fire Department rescue team (인천남부소방서 구조대) rescued 36year-old Mrs. Kim after she became trapped in her washing machine at approximately 5:50 a.m. on April 14 in her home in Juan-dong. Kim had been sitting on the washing machine on her apartment’s veranda that morning to smoke a cigarette when she lost her balance and fell into the machine, pushing her body into a V-shape and leaving her trapped, the state in which her husband discovered her and called 119. The 119 rescue team used a cutting tool to break through the washing machine and rescue Mrs. Kim, and fortunately she sustained no visible injuries.

Police Officer Accused of Secretly Filming Female Coworkers A police officer has resigned after an internal investigation opened after he was accused of secretly filming the private parts of a female officer who worked with him. The Seocho Police Station in Seoul announced that Sergeant B voluntarily resigned after becoming the subject of an investigation accusing him of installing a hidden camera in the seat of a female officer. The incident began when officer A discovered a digital camera underneath her desk in February. Officer A searched for the owner of the camera and began to suspect Sgt. B, who sat next to her. Sgt. B claimed “the camera must have fallen there accidentally,” and after closer questioning he said, “It was just a joke. There was no video.” Learning of this, officer A was unsure of what to do and told another female officer, and their superiors were quickly informed. The internal investigation began on April 8, two months since the incident began. Sgt B., at the center of the scandal, resigned two days later and sent a resignation letter to the Seoul Metropolitan Police Agency on April 15. Sgt. B will receive severance pay because he was not punished or fired. A member of the Seocho Police Station said, “At the time the camera’s battery was dead, and there were no videos or photos stored in it... I understand that because it could harm his ethical reputation as a police officer, he resigned.” But it has not been confirmed whether Sgt. B did in fact use a hidden camera to film officer A. 10

Is Your Local Noraebang Illegal? Exclusive

to Groove Korea

n May 23, the Geumcheon Police Station in Seoul arrested 41year-old A, a public servant in the Geumcheon Office, on charges of accepting bribes to allow the business operation of a noraebang that did not have a license to be in business. According to police, from January 2007 through September of 2008 Mr. A was in charge of cultural activities and noraebangs,

and took in 8.5 million won from nine owners of unlicensed noraebangs to forge paperwork allowing them to be in business. Also, he is accused of taking another 3.5 million won from six business owners by tricking them into thinking they had to pay surcharges for their liquor license. Investigators found that Mr. A repeatedly contacted the owners of noraebangs which had been ordered to close for not having liquor licenses or for making doumi girls available and offered to let them stay open in exchange for bribes. Police are expanding their investigation to determine whether his predecessor Mr. B was involved in other cases of noraebangs escaping punishment. Accordingly, they plan to investigate other employees of the Geumcheon Office who have not been implicated in any incident.

North Korean Defectors Face Discrimination in the South

“These days I can’t get a job at all. When I say I’m from North Korea it becomes the economy or something else...” 34-year-old Kim Yeong-woon (a pseudonym), who graduated from a music college in North Korea and worked as a singer before fleeing North Korea in 2001 and arriving in South Korea in July of 2004, said that in an interview on April 22 with the Dong-A Ilbo. She has not been able to find work in a long time, having previously been a freelance actress in musicals. Kim said, “I formed a performance group with other North Korean refugees and put on shows in the provinces, but there has been one cancellation after another... Time after time it seemed like North Korean performances made people uncomfortable.” With the sinking of the Cheonan said to be likely the result of a North Korean act, and the case of two North Korean spies being uncovered, North Korean refugees are facing deepening anxiety. An increasing number of them are losing their jobs or feeling personally threatened as society shuns them. With two large problems likely caused by North Korea, they are being watched with critical eyes and are finding it difficult to settle in and live their lives. 50-year-old Kim Sae-yong, a member of the 새터민평양민족예 술단, has more wrinkles around his eyes. Seven of his last nine scheduled performances were cancelled. Kim said, “a lot of our performances have been cancelled over the Cheonan sinking, and other groups say they’re having similar problems... that incident and the spy issue make people uneasy about watching North Korean performances.” Kim added: “Basically law-abiding North Korean refugees are afraid of misunderstandings and suspicions.” As soon as the spy incident came to light, many North Korean refugees began to feel personal threats. Kim said, “Recently I’ve been getting threatening phone calls from people who won’t say who they are... the police are telling us to be very careful about these phone calls.” A North Korean refugee associated with The Daily NK (NK지식인 연대) said, “I was supposed to be hired by a shipbuilding company but when the spy incident came out I was suddenly considered suspicious and the offer was rescinded.” Many told us they have similar stories. 43-year-old North Korean refugee Song Sun-yeong (a pseudonym), who works in a Mapo-gu restaurant, has been keeping her head down lately. Whenever a customer is watching news of the Cheonan sinking they say “this must be North Korea’s doing.” Ms. Song said, “I feel like I should be apologizing, that it’s our fault, and I hang my head.” Her coworkers do the same, not saying what they really think. Ms. Song also never walks home at night by herself. Among North Korean refugees it is often said, “there could be people watching for North Korean refugees, so don’t walk alone at night.” She said, “even though I’m used to the area I’m afraid to walk by myself, so my husband comes to walk with me every night.” With ties between North and South Korea increasingly strained, an increasing number of North Korean refugees are worrying that their family members left behind in North Korea could now be spies. A member of The Daily NK said, “there are children who worry that their families will be threatened and spies sent for them... many, many refugees these days are trying to confirm that their family members are still alive.” 30-year-old Lee Yeong-hwan, head of research at the Citizens’ Alliance for North Korean Human Rights (북한인권시민연합), said, “there are 20,000 North Korean refugees in South Korea, and most of them are in safe situations and are apparently not worried... it’s easy to feel worried when you have a lot of family members left behind in North Korea and such a short time to get used to the new country.” 11

Gwangju 30 Years On “The bloodshed of Gwangju in May 1980 is the cornerstone of this country’s democracy. Its victims dedicated their lives to democracy.” — President Kim Young-sam

By Rob McGovern The military coup of December 1979 by ROK Army General Chun Doo-hwan ultimately led to a massacre in Gwangju the following spring. Thirty years ago, on May 18, 1980, a protest by around 200 students in front of Cheonnam University sparked a series of events that led to one of the darkest days in modern Korean history. With the beginning of a new semester in March 1980, professors and students expelled for pro-democracy activities returned to their universities and formed student unions that went on to lead nationwide demonstrations. In response, the government closed universities, banned political activities and further restricted the press with a declaration of martial law that included the entire nation. Troops were posted around the country to enforce the changes. Former President Park Chung-hee’s regime had ‘nourished a culture of opposition’ in Jeolla province by giving economic and political favours to his native Gyeongsang region at the expense of the Jeolla region during his tenure and so, somewhat predictably, Jeolla became an area of political opposition to his dictatorship. This led to more discrimination from the centre. As soldiers attempted to control the protesters at the university more people joined, and by the afternoon of the same day the protest had moved downtown and had grown to around 2,000 protesters. By the May 20 the number of protesters had increased to more than 100,000. On the May 21, the army fired at a protesting crowd gathered in front of the Cheonnam Provincial Office, causing casualties. Some protesters raided armouries and police stations in nearby towns and armed themselves in response. Later that afternoon, gunfights 12

between militias and the army broke out in the Provincial Office Square. At this point, all troops retreated to suburban areas, waiting for reinforcements. By May 26, the army was ready to re-enter the city. As news of the imminent attack spread, civil militias gathered in the Provincial Office, preparing for the last stand. At 4:00 a.m., troops from five divisions moved into the downtown area and defeated the civil militias in only 90 minutes. The exact death toll of the uprising is unknown, but according to The May 18th Memorial Foundation there were 154 killed and 74 missing, presumed dead. At the Mangwol-dong cemetery in Gwangju, where victims’ bodies are buried, survivors of the massacre and bereaved families have held an annual memorial service on May 18 every year since 1983. Many pro-democracy demonstrations in the 1980s demanded official recognition of the truth of the Gwangju massacre and punishment for those responsible. Official re-evaluation began after the reinstatement of direct presidential elections in 1987. In 1988, the National Assembly held a public hearing on the Gwangju massacre, and officially renamed the incident as the Gwangju Democratization Movement. In 1995 the National Assembly passed a Special Law which enabled the prosecution of those responsible for the December 12 coup d’état and the Gwangju massacre. Subsequently, eight politicians were indicted for high treason and the massacre. Their punishments included a life sentence for former President Roh Tae-Woo and an initial death sentence, later changed to a life sentence, for former President Chun Doo-hwan, but all convicts were pardoned in the name of national reconciliation on December 22nd by President Kim Young-sam.

Gwangju is not Korea’s most beautiful city, it doesn’t have the glamour of Seoul nor the relaxed seaside atmosphere of Busan, but it does have history. What happened in Gwangju on those fateful days have cemented Gwangju as the centre of the nation’s conscience. The city refuses to forget the fateful events of May 1980 and honours the memories of those killed with various monuments around town. The 5:18 memorial park is worth a visit, if only to see the very impressive sculpture of three ragged protesters. In the north of the city is the May 18th National Cemetery, the burial place of the victims of the uprising. Visitors to Gwangju should probably be aware of and respect what went on here, but that doesn’t mean a visit need be completely sombre. The city is well known for its kimchi festival and the less well known but interesting 7080 Chungjangro festival, both in October. There is also the Gwangju Biennale (September/October, even numbered years) and the design Biennale(September/October, odd numbered years). A short taxi ride from the bus terminal lands you in the middle of an area that houses the Biennale art hall, Gwangju Folk Museum, Gwangju Culture and Art Centre, Gwangju Art Museum and Gwangju National Museum. And if that isn’t enough for you there are a host of temples, shrines and other interesting buildings that inhabit the ranges of Mt. Mudeung, a short trip east from the centre. Gwangju should be visited if you are a reasonably long term resident in Korea, especially if you take an interest in history and culture. Maybe for people from the northern provinces or short term residents a trip solely to visit Gwangju may not be warranted but would be a nice addition to a tour of the Jeolla region.

calendar of events

> may

monday

sunday

tuesday

friday

thursday

wednesday

saturday

flo rida may 21 & 22

Mass Appeal @ Mansion in Hongdae Boseong Green Tea Festival until 5th Damyang Bamboo Festival until 5th Twins Party @ mASS

leif garrett

deep purple

may 8 & 9

Mexican Mondays @ Sam Ryan’s in Itaewon. 1,000 won tacos! Margarita and Nacho Specials.

Andrea Bocelli Live @ Jamsil Gymnasium Chuck Mangione Live in Seoul @ Sejong Arts Center Beer Pong/Nintendo Wii/Poker/ Other Games - Every Sun @ Yaletown in Sinchon Invisible Children Africa Documentary @ Roofers every 1st and 3rd Sunday

Wing Night Mon & Tues @ Big Rock in Gangnam. 4 kinds of taste 1 dz of wings are special price 5,000won (BBQ, buffalo, teriyaki, red curry)

Open Mic Night @ Big Rock in Gangnam. Every 2nd & 4th Sunday from 7-11pm Born in 1990. No Cover & 1 FREE Drink @ Club Mass in Gangnam til midnight

ESL teachers Night 10% OFF @ BIG ROCK in Gangnam. Every Mon & Tue

Rib Night @ Sam Ryan’s. 500 won Barbeque pork Ribs

All You Can Eat! Sunday Brunch Buffet @ BIG ROCK in Gangnam 11am~2:30pm

Open Mic Event Every Mon @ Tony’s Aussie Bar & Bistro in Itaewon, 8-11pm

Happy Hour Sun-Thur @ BIG ROCK in Gangnam. Any dinner w/ 1 free house cocktail.

Drunken Chicken Night @ Gecko’s in Itaewon Quiz Night @ Wolfhound Every Sun at 8:30pm

Chuncheon Int’l Mime Festival in Chuncheon until 30th All You Can Eat! Brunch Buffet @ BIG ROCK in Gangnam 11am~2:30pm

All Day Breakfast @ Wolfhound in Itaewon. All day, every weekday

Happy hour @ Big Rock in Gangnam Any dinner w/ 1 free house cocktail. Sun-Thurs

23 Monthly Flea Market @ Roofers in Itaewon

BBQ 24 Hours @ Don Valley in Itaewon

30 14

3,000 won Rum, Gin, Vodka with mix @ Beer O’Clock in Sinchon

Happy Hour Every Fri/Sat @ Yaletown in Sinchon. 6-9pm 2-for-1 Cass Draft!

LEIF GARRETT Live in Seoul @ Olympic Park. 8th & 9th

2010 Seoul Topokki Festival @ aT Center in Yangjae Seoul until 9th

Seoul Global Center Information Fair In front of the Seoul Finance Center/Seoul Press Center. 8th & 9th KOO, Shut Da Mouth @ HEAVEN

50% OFF Every Wed Selected drinks and Champagnes @ lipSTICK in Itaewon

Mark Knight @ eden in Gangnam

Lotus Lantern Festival @ Jongro Seoul. Until 16th

Ferry Corsten @ Club Volume in Itaewon

Apollo 18 & More @ Club Freebird in Hongdae Propeller 21 & More @ Live Club Ssam in Hongdae

FLO RIDA, G-Dragon @ Yonsei Univ. 21st & 22nd

Dream Concert @ Seoul World Cup Stadium

OB night @ Sam Ryan’s. 1,500 won OB Draft

Fat Joe @ Club Pasha in Daegu

Alley Kat “ALL You Can Drink” @ Beer O’Clock in Sinchon. 30,000w. 7-10pm

Greenplugged Music Festival @ Noeul Park, World Cup Park. 21st & 22nd

Gui Boratto @ eden

Ladies Night Every Fri @ Jane’s Groove in Hongdae

Bane, Geeks, No Excuse & More @ DGBD in Hongdae

Dat Politics @ elune in Busan

2 for 1 Fish & Chips @ Wolfhound Pub in Itaewon

Open Mic Night Every Tues @ Olde Stompers in Itaewon around 9pm Quiz Night @ Orange Tree in Haebangchon Every Tuesday at 9:30pm

Poker Tournament Every Wed @ Fence in Nonhyun. Foreigners only Texas Hold’em in Busan Mon-Sun after 6pm. playpokerinbusan@hotmail.com

19 Spoken Word/Stand Up Comedy & Poetry Every Wed @ Tony’s Aussie Bar & Bistro in Itaewon 8-11pm

Plastic Kid, Andnow & More @ Mnet Pub (Times Square Mall) in Yeongdeungpo

Bane @ Bar Guess in Daegu

Club Day - Last Friday of month in Hongdae

Ladies Night Every Thurs-Sat @ The Loft Pub in Itaewon

George Winston “2010 Love Will Come” Solo Piano Concert @ Kye Myung Art Center, Daegu

Shooters Night Every Thur @ Gecko’s in Itaewon. Every shot 4,500 won.

20% OFF for All Set Menus Every Fri/Sat @ Spice Table in Itaewon from 5-9pm. Bucket Night @ Beer O’Clock in Sinchon. 5 shots with mix... in a bucket 12,000w. Every Fri.

Seoul City Suicides @ Olde Stompers in Itaewon

Wing Night Every Thur @ BIG ROCK in Gangnam. 1dz wing 5000 won.

We Need Surgery & More @ Soundholic in Hongdae

Mystical & Tripical @ Volume

Sound Day - 2nd Friday of month in Hongdae

Drag Bingo Night Every Fri @ Bar Bliss in Itaewon. 9pm

Wing Night Every Thur @ BIG ROCK in Gangnam. 1dz wing 5,000 won

Happy Hour All Night Long @ Bar Bliss in Itaewon. Every Wed

Mackay, French Knickerz @ VERA

Matt Bianco, D’Sound & More @ Seoul Olympic Park

Pizza Night Every Thur @ Pub Scrooge in Itaewon. 1,500won a slice

Only 9,900won for beef BBQ Every Wed. @ Gogitjib in HBC

Guinness Day Every Tues @ Gecko’s in Itaewon

Seoul World DJ Festival @ Han River 8th & 9th

Aya @ eden

Sweet Salt & More @ Rolling Hall in Hongdae

MAX Beer Day Every Wed @ Beer O’Clock in Sinchon. Buy any pizza and a Max, 2nd Max FREE.

Steak Dinner Every Tues @ Hollywood Grill in Itaewon. Only 13,500 won

Wing Night Every Tues @ Nashville in Itaewon 250won/wing. 5-8pm

Wing Night @ Orange Tree in Haebangchon. 10 for 3,000won

2nd annual Spring Film Competition @ Roofers in Itaewon

May’s Chug Champion @ BricX

Plastic Kid & More @ Mnet Pub (Times Square Mall) in Yeongdeungpo

Deep Purple Live in Seoul @ Olympic Park

2 for 1 Special @ Bar Bliss in Itaewon. Everyday 7-10pm

East Coast Canada Night @ Beer O’Clock in Sinchon. Bagpipes, good tunes and Food 9pm

College Night @ Club Mass in Gangnam. No cover & 1 FREE drink with student ID til midnight

Wouter Hamel with Sweet Sorrow @ Sejong Art Hall

Open Mic Night @ Woodstock in Itaewon 1st & 3rd Sunday of every month at 7:30 p.m.

‘Ladies Night On The Roof’ Every Thur @ Roofers in Itaewon (ladies drink free)

Flip-a-Coin @ Gogitjib in Haebangchon Get TAILS and you get 50% off on your BBQ. Every Monday

Ladie’s Night Every Thur @ Yaletown in Sinchon. Free selected shooters all night for Ladies.

FREE STEAK with Groove Mag Coupon @ Mary Jane in Hongdae

Wing Night Every Mon @ YALETOWN in Sinchon. 400won/wing (7 different flavors)

Art Auction @ Roofers in Itaewon

Inside Core @ Answer

Phonebooth & More @ FF in Hongdae

Kelly Clarkson All I Ever Wanted World Tour in Seoul @ Olympic Park

WINGS 50% OFF Every Tues @ Beer O’Clock in Sinchon.

Nuphonique, QuE, OCB, MYK @ mansion

may 18

Red Day Rooftop Party @ Roofers in Itaewon. Introducing Beer Buckets

Fin @ HEAVEN

Toe, Achime @ Live Club Ssam

Hae Bang Chon Music Fest in Haebangchon. Starts at 3pm Tokyo Underground @ Club Womb in Busan DJ B @ mASS Beat Torrent @ elune in Busan Saph-Fire @ Club Pasha in Daegu

29 15

events in may

RAKing it out at Club Ta for World Belly Dance Day Long before Shakira brought the ancient Arab art of Belly Dancing onto the pop music scene, Seoulite Belynda Azhaar has been shaking her hips and raising awareness in Asia about the culture of Middle Eastern dance. What many do not know, is that the global community of Belly Dancers has a strong focus on charity and officially celebrates its community consciousness on the second Saturday of May: World Belly Dance Day. This year in Seoul, the event, dubbed ‘RAK 2010,’ will focus on themes of ‘Rescue, Renew, Recover and Rejoice’ in keeping with the goals of the local charities the event will support. One-hundred percent of the proceeds will go to charities Dashi Hamkke http://www.dasi.or.kr, an anti-human trafficking support GO, and Bear Necessity Korea www.bearnecessitykorea.com, an animal welfare NGO. Both charities will have information tables at the event and representatives will speak regarding their respective missions in Korea. “As well as raising awareness (and funds) for our selected charities, the night will be a celebration of World Bellydance Day (http://www.worldbellydanceday.com).We will promote Oriental dance (a.k.a. belly dance) within the Performing Arts by showcasing performances amongst live music, comedy, spoken word, theatrical and other dance acts. There will be an open dance floor at the end of the performances and a chance for the audience to get up and try out some dance moves. It’s going to be a fun night with something for everyone. And it’s all for a good cause.” said Azhaar. Lead by Comedic host Albert Escabedo, the diverse line-up includes a plethora of performers from various dance genres as well as comedians, musicians, theater and spoken word artists. Featured well-known expat artists include guitar virtuoso Greg James Hanford, dancer Paula Wilson, Space Rhyme Continuum hip-hop group, vocalist Ryan Goessl, spoken word artists Lauren Bedard and Carys Jones, and comedian Brian Aylward. The Seoul Players will also make an appearance, performing a scene from their upcoming musical production.

Musical Party & Impersonation Contest Spring is here and Itaewon’s swankiest indoor/outdoor watering hole is kickin’ the heat up a notch with its Impersonation Contest, and wants YOU to participate. Here’s what you’ve got to do: Choose your favorite song from a Broadway or movie musical, dress up like the performer and sing (or lip sync) your heart out. Anyone can enter and can impersonate any song from any musical you can think of. Sing it straight, or do it campy. Dress in drag, or keep your own gender. Go up solo or do it as a group. Anything goes. Bar Bliss encourages you to bring your own music, but offers its help if you need it, as their music files are plentiful. It costs 10,000 won to enter and 1 million won in prizes are being offered. If you just want to watch, expect 2-for-1 drinks from 5-8 p.m. including special prices on Agwa shots. If you’ve never been to Bar Bliss, that is a mistake that needs to be rectified quickly. It’s nice, it’s clean, and it’s an oasis of fun on the west side of Itaewon, just down the street from Wolfhound. It’s the perfect size for birthday parties and offers the use of its BBQ if planned in advanced. They often host special events on Fridays, such as Drag Bingo. Happy Hour is 7-10 p.m. nightly. Bar Bliss’ Musical Party & Impersonation Contest • May 15 • Cover: 5,000 won • Happy Hour 5-8 p.m. • Check out “musical party” event page on Facebook, or email tedypark@yahoo.com

This unique extravaganza at Hongdae’s Club Ta is expected to kick off the annual DJ festival weekend with a bang (and a swivel). Doors open at 10:00 p.m., Friday, May 7 at Club Ta in Hongdae. Performances will commence at 10:30 p.m. and continue into the early hours of Saturday morning. A 15,000 won cover charge includes one free drink. Sponsored by Groove Korea and SeoulStyle.com

Tony Award winning Musical in Seoul Seoul Players presents:

“The 25th Annual Putnam County Spelling Bee” by Margaret Whittum

Seoul Players staged its first production in June 2002, and since then they’ve staged approximately two full-scale productions per year. This group offers the expatriate and Korean community the opportunity to indulge themselves in exclusively English-language theatre. It is a small non-profit group of (mostly) expats who delight in bringing English-language theatre to audiences in Seoul. This theatre community brings together talented people with varied levels of experience, but lots of enthusiasm. All particpants volunteer their time for the love of theatre. With many local Koreans also attending performances, Seoul Players help broaden awareness in Korea of foreign theatre and offers Koreans an English theatre experience. Over the past eight years, many different styles of plays have been staged, from the zany The Compleat Works of Wllm Shkspr to the technically difficult and dramatic Hitchcock Blonde. In more recent times, Seoul Players has branched out to include other styles of theatre, including one-night shows of original work, such as 24-

Hour Theatre and Night of 1,000 Plays. The latest production will be Seoul Players’ first musical, The 25th Annual Putnam County Spelling Bee. It’s a hilarious musical comedy centered around a Spelling Bee at the fictional Putnam Valley Middle School. Six quirky adolescents (played by adults) compete in the Bee, run by three equally-quirky grownups. Spelling Bee includes a good deal of improv comedy as well, with four audience members participating in the Bee each night.The Spelling Bee’s actors should be able to handle any audience mayhem, however, as the cast includes several performers from Seoul City Improv and Under the Radar Comedy. Spelling Bee ran on Broadway in 2005 and was nominated for six Tony Awards, winning two, including Best Book. Music and lyrics were written by William Finn, best known for Falsettos. Spelling Bee has hundreds of productions currently running, including a national tour in the U.S. In 2007, the first translated production opened in Seoul with music and dialogue in Korean, but the words that were spelled remained in English. The 25th Annual Putnam County Spelling Bee • May 29 – June 13 • Fridays and Saturdays at 8 p.m. • Sundays at 5 p.m. • Roofers in Itaewon • Tickets: 10,000 won • Reserve tickets at seoulspellingbee@gmail.com • www.seoulplayers.com • Are you an actor, director, writer or techie? Join Seoul Players, Seoul’s first English community theatre.Visit the website.

GROOVe with seoulvibes

the politics of dancing Multi was launched last summer and since that time they have not looked back. In the past year, they have brought some of the finest talent from the East and also booked Klever for all to witness his mayhem behind the wheels of steel. Whether it is exposing the underground in Hongdae, weekday madness in Itaewon, or being shutdown after-hours in Gangnam — this crew is transforming the map for clubbers in Seoul. We spoke to their front man about his take on the real and the surreal aspects of promoting on the peninsula.

Who is Multi? Multi sprang from a desire to create original events around an online street shop (multiseoul. com) and as things have progressed we have been putting more energy into it. I am mainly working as a promoter, booking artists, and throwing events with both local and international artists. You can catch me drifting around the clubs all the time and I just call this part of the job!

What have been the positives and negatives of producing shows on the peninsula? The satisfaction of being a part of a party that goes off is a great high in itself. I guess that’s the number one positive. On the negative side, the entertainment industry in general is a shady business and this in combination with the business culture can be a hassle. I feel I’ve been really lucky so far though.

Do you think that the market is saturated? Well, it’s saturated with pseudo ranked DJs way past their prime using this city as a retirement bonus.We still have huge gaps in the in the local scene to build on and we need to bring in relevant foreign DJs with sounds that are simply nowhere to be found.

What are the negatives that you see in the scene? 18

Right now the scene has really gravitated south of the river. Not many proper parties any-

where else and I feel this is unbalanced. All cities have big commercial club districts and that’s cool, but we need the underground. We have everyone faking it till they make it. A large segment of the scene right now wants to stand in front of branded walls and take pictures. That’s not partying to me. On a positive note, I love that we can party all night here and the development of the after clubs. Also the crowds here have a lot of energy and are not as cynical as they are in more established markets.

Who do you think is the best local artist residing in Korea? It’s funny, somebody asked me this the other day and I was having trouble answering. I think the biggest problem right now is there are too many carbon copy DJs. Everyone watched the Justice movie and got inspired — I reckon! The talent is here, it is just not promoted by the mainstream clubs. Come and check out one of our shows! We stack it from top to bottom and we let our guests judge who they thought was best.

Do you think the drink prices and cover charges are realistic? I think realistically, foreign DJs are going to be expensive to bring in and thus the cover price can’t be too cheap. Paying the same cover to see local artists is just silly though and this has been happening too often. Drinks are often overpriced because you are not paying for just the drink, but also the chance to show you have money.

What advice would you give to novice promoters? Study the scene. It’s not just like back home where you book a sick DJ and the crowd comes. Connect with as many people as you can. And stick to your passion, we need more passionate people in Seoul period. And please don’t sell out, that is one thing the city has already got enough of already.

What upcoming events is Multi promoting? We have our Ruckus the last Thursday of every month at My Bed, Mass Appeal, a hip hop event mashed up with electronic music at Mansion and Tokyo Underground returns to both Seoul and Busan. Were really going to bring it this summer! There are few promoters who have survived the politics of dancing. The ones who last are those who have passion and build quality nights. This crew has tasted success and defeat, but has shown its resilience and commitment to the scene. All the cards seem stacked against them, but we are willing to give odds that Multi will endure. This production company has defied the status quo and continues to redefine clubbing on the peninsula.

Photos by David B. Mann This is a column dedicated to electronic music in Korea. Our aim is to give Groove Korea readers: interviews and updates on what is happening on the peninsula. Feel free to contact the links below for information on clubs, DJs, or events!

seoulvibes@gmail.com | www.myspace.com/seoulvibes check out seoulvibes on:

ASIA

How do you overcome the rift between clubs and promoters? This is a great question. I think the clubs really just need to hand off all promotion to outside promoters. Most of them have been losing money by overpaying foreign DJs that are just terrible. We need more trust. Relationships are everything.

1917

music

n a e L c a M e Th thers Bro

Words and Photos by Aaron Brown www.aaronbrownphotos.com Buzz, buzz, buzz… So I’m getting ready to sit down for dinner with my old lady and my phone goes off. Mind you, I don’t answer my phone past 9 p.m. on weekdays usually, but I happened to hear it buzzing away next to my computer, saw it was the manager of We Need Surgery, Chris Madden, and decided to give it the ol’ “Yeoboseyo!?” I met Chris a few weeks earlier when I was shooting WNS in studio as they put the final touches together on finishing their upcoming album. It’s a good thing I answered, ‘cause he went on to hook me up with a sweet gig shooting The MacLean Brothers, a group of cool cats from Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada who were in town on a whirlwind tour through Asia, eh. As a photographer, you want to maintain a high level of professionalism – punctual, planned, prepared, pants zipped. However, when you’re on location, things sometimes often don’t go the way you originally pictured or planned for, and when working with the added dynamic likes of a rock band, you really

have to be able to think fast and improvise. What originally was planned as street portraits turns into kung-fu kicking, pseudo trading cards; day becomes night; a rooftop shot with the sun setting in the background quickly becomes an abandoned construction site with a creative moonrise added in post; challenges become opportunities. It’s just the nature of the beast. The MacLean Brothers are a critically acclaimed Canadian rock quartet, three of whom are the sons of the late Gary MacLean of 70s folk group MacLean & MacLean.They’re the type of guys I would hang out with back home – laid back, funny, warm hearted, and all around genuine people.We talked about everything from Scorsese films to Weezer albums, ate some amazing burgers and even had a few laughs reminiscing about 1980s WWF wresters. How we never got around to any Degrassi or hockey talk baffles me. To top the night off, they rocked out a hell of a show at Club FF. I can’t wait to photograph/ hang out with them again. If you’re lucky, at the end of a long day of shooting, you’ve managed to maintain a piece of your original vision. If you had fun doing it, then you’ve captured more than any photo can ever show – and that’s just what I managed to do.

michael

travis

dave

paul

music

Groove Korea/SeoulStyle.com

Coming Out Party Pictures by Simon Bond

Last month saw a very special announcement: SeoulStyle.com and Groove Korea have come clean about their unique relationship They have been in bed together for a while, but waited for the right moment to let the world know about it. In celebration of the blessed union, Club FF was taken over by bands, DJs, contributors, editors, photographers and loads of fans. Party-goers took in the talents of We Need Surgery, Mineri, PhoneBooth and The Rock Tigers. Afterwards, anyone who could still stand was treated to FF’s legendary Super Fun Dance Party. The event was so wild that it is sure to spawn more just like it. Until then, be sure to catch Groove Korea online at www.SeoulStyle.com Founded on beliefs that are in short supply within the current underground music scene, Massachusetts’ Bane has established themselves as one of the most influential and relevant bands in hardcore today. Since their inception, they’ve become one of the scene’s hardest working bands touring the world over and releasing three full-length’s: 1999’s “It All Comes Down To This,” 2001’s critically-acclaimed “Give Blood,” and 2005’s “The Note.” Four years have passed since The Note was released, and Bane members’ schedules were looking busier then ever, making finding the time to write a new full-length seem unrealistic. In June 2009, the band booked studio time with Jay Maas at Getaway Studios and decided to go in and record as many new tracks as they had at the time. A week later they emerged with six new songs, all of them named after American soap operas, all six coming straight from the heart. Freed of any obligations from their long-time label Equal Vision Records, the new material will be released on various labels throughout the world, all of which will have their own signature title and cover art for the release. www.myspace.com/banecentral

Open Your Eyes Presents: Bane (US) Cruel Hand (US) Ceremony (US) The Geeks South Korea Tour

May 21 - Daegu Venue: BAR. GUESS Cover: 25,000 won (Pre-sale: 20,000 Won) Door: 6:30 p.m. Lineup: Bane, Cruel Hand, Ceremony, The Geeks, Omado All Stars, Sinkclair Hosted by Ballaz Crew May 22 - Seoul Venue: DGBD Cover: 30,000 won Door: 5:00 p.m. Lineup: Bane, Cruel Hand, Ceremony, The Geeks, Burn My Bridges, No Excuse, Things We Say, Banran, Shellback For booking information, or more about the shows, look up Bane on Facebook, or contact Ki from THE GEEKS | Open Your Eyes Booking E-mail: youthxcrew@gmail.com Web: www.myspace.com/thexgeeks Phone: 82-16-467-0951

music

WHAT’S UP

Vidulgi Ooyoo

their “Aero” debut until the spring of 2008. A fantastic listen, the eight track effort was nominated for a handful of prizes at the 2009 Korean Music Awards and earned Vidulgi Ooyoo stage time at two of the country’s most prominent outdoor music events – the Incheon Pentaport Rock Festival in 2008 and the Jisan Valley Rock Festival last summer. The band had begun thinking about following up “Aero” with an EP, when Bliss.City.East pitched the idea of a joint project. The two groups met through MySpace in 2008 and quickly developed a mutual respect for one another through their shared love of the shoegaze sub-genre. “They had been interested in our music and introduced us to several webzines along with their friends in the U.S. and Europe,” says Jong-seok. BY SHAWN DESPRES “We wanted to do something different from WWW.KOREAGIGGUIDE.COM ‘Aero’ and we thought that our music would contrast well with Bliss.City.East’s classic shoeThe Vidulgi Ooyoo/Bliss.City.East split CD Seoul shoegaze quartet Vidulgi Ooyoo held a gaze sound.” is available now at Hyang Music in Sinchon release party for their new split CD with ChiThe disc offers four selections from Vidulgi and Purple Record in Hongdae. cago’s Bliss.City.East at Salon Badabie in HongOoyoo and five from Bliss.City.East. Seoul label For more information on Vidulgi Ooyoo, dae on April 10. Performing for a packed house, Electric Muse is issuing the split in South Korea visit www.myspace.com/vidulgiooyoo the band were feeling quite good come night’s and it will surface on American imprint Fake Laend and decided to try something different. bel Recordings in June.Vidulgi Ooyoo and Bliss. “We were so impressed by the reactions of City.East will team up for gigs in Seoul in the fall our fans that we did a very awkward and funny curtain call after the concert,” and in Chicago at the end of this year or early in 2011. says guitarist and vocalist Lee Jong-seok. “We have never done any kind of cur“It’s incredible that the record will come out in the U.S. as well,” says Jongtain call before that, so we made mistakes as some of us tried to hold hands but seok. “We hope more people around the world get to enjoy our music.” other members did not.” A preview of sorts, Vidulgi Ooyoo’s contributions expand upon the material While their post-show bowing abilities may need some fine-tuning, their mupresented on “Aero” and offer a glimpse of the sonic terrains the band will sical skills do not. Formed in 2003 by Jong-seok, the act’s current lineup was explore on the sophomore full-length they plan to release within the next 12 cemented in 2004 and includes bassist Sung Ki-hun, drummer Lee Yong-jun, months. And while all four new compositions are well-crafted and brimming and guitarist and vocalist Ham Ji-hye. Ji-hye was a musician that Jong-seok was with a wonderful array of hypnotic guitar noise, Jong-seok admits the group especially excited to recruit for Vidulgi Ooyoo. have a definite favourite from the bunch. “When I saw Ji-hye play with her former band, Greenish Yellow, I thought she “The songs have similar textures as ‘Aero,’ but incorporate different specwould make a really good combination with my guitar,” Jong-seok explains. “She trums and styles,” Jong-seok offers. “We tried to include aspects from psycheis so talented. So I made up my mind finally to invite her to be a part of Vidulgi delic blues, post-rock and ‘90s indie rock. Ooyoo and obviously that was a wise choice. Of course, the other members “The song ‘Goodnight Shining’ is about a total eclipse I saw on the National are very talented too.” Geographic channel. It was so impressive.We feel that ‘Goodnight Shining’ flows Taking their time to perfect their spacey, dream pop, the group didn’t put out like the scenes of a movie. Whenever we play it live, it always moves us.”

With little warning, the synth keyboard, guitar and drum trio halted their sound check and listened. “Can you check that feedback? It might be a bad cord.” The venue staff went silent as the noise played on. The curious part was this feedback had a melody – not like the tune they were playing, but something strangely similar. An off-kilter foreshadowing of the coming performance or just a weird glitch? Turns out it was the latter, but still an unusual moment with an unusual band. I had a chance to chow down on some pre-concert samgyeopsal with the Sacramento-conceived, Portland-transported trio What’s Up. Making their debut in Korea with promoter SuperColorSuper, they didn’t seem too fazed by the unusual elements of Korean culture – “we really dig the kimchi” was heard repeatedly from all members of the band to this writer’s surprise. With shows in Busan, Daegu, Seoul and Daejeon, they’ve had a great chance to experience some of Korea’s, er, distinctive, culture. “This one drunken businessman, he was shaking my hand and he just wouldn’t let go. He was asking me, like, how old are you and where are you from” – just the sort of encounter every foreigner has at least once during their time here. Korea isn’t exactly known for bringing in indie acts that weren’t formed here.“Sean [Maylone from SuperColorSuper] While What’s Up has relives out here and got us a turned to the States (and “a chance to perform across Korea.” While this isn’t the burrito from the Mission in promoter’s first concert – San Francisco,” added Teddy), they were responsible for look for more concerts from Do Make Say Think’s Febpromoter SuperColorSuper ruary performance in Seoul, coming to Busan, Daegu, Seoul among others – the nascent and Daejeon in the future. company has already gained a Look for more information sizable following, as evidenced about future performances at by the crowd at Seoul’s concert. Teddy Briggs goes between supercolorsuper.com/ the drums and keyboards; Brian all-shows Pasos keeps the bass alive, and Robby Moncrieff claims the title “polymorphic instrumentalist.” Their current record, a seven-song, thirty-minute EP titled “Content Imagination,” is for sale at obstructivevibe. com, along with some of Robby’s other projects. “We’ve been working on a new album for about a year and a half now,” Robby said, although he couldn’t say when it would be released. Robby also mentioned he’d be DJ’ing for the after-party, although, he added, “I don’t really know what I’m doing...” If Robby is genuinely worried about his DJ skills, just wait for them to build, as his musical skills clearly have. As for the music, it’s less about understanding the nuances and more about admiring the work that goes into making said music. There’s a lot of technical prowess that goes into the production of each and every song.To some it might sound like noise; to others, it’s a series of complex and progressive compositions. It pulses, swaggers, staggers, randomizes and syncopates, yet stays tightly together. Robby’s background mastering tunes from old-school NES games (look up The Advantage from circa 2004 to hear some more of those chops) makes him the perfect guy to mix up those sounds he surely spent hours originally learning. There are no lyrics to get in the way of the almost robotic instrumental sound, and they’re not really needed. Check out SuperColorSuper on Page 29

ColorSuper

music

www.supercolorsuper.com

By Tsarinas Chenis

Ska Sucks CD Release

One of Hongdae’s most beloved bands, Ska Sucks, is releasing their long-awaited full-length cd… in Itaewon.There’s no doubt that one will be able to pick up a disk at other shows at other venues, but the champagne bottle will be broken as the album sets sail on May15 at Ole Stompers Rock Spot, at the top of Itaewon’s infamous ‘Hooker Hill.’ Ska Sucks has had other releases, but this is the disk they hope will take them somewhere. Jin Suk, the leader who occasionally Ska Sucks CD Release plays alto-sax, says that he is full Party will start at 9 p.m. of “confidence that our band is on May 15. It’s a free good enough to rock the biggest show, and the famous stages in the USA and the world.” all-you-can-drink special The hope is that the album will be is only 20,000 won. the shot in the arm they need to kick off a busy touring schedule. www.myspace.com/ Why did such a big-named vvskasucksvv Korean indie band choose a foreigner-filled venue for such an important party? “Because Stompers people know how to party!” It’s certainly true that the venue is known for its alcohol consumption, but also for hosting an eclectic mix of bands and patrons. One Saturday night will see an American Steel party full of bikers in black leather and the next will have A Night of Blue Dolphins, with its hipsters and salsa dancers. Their first gig at Stompers was about 15 months ago at the Valentines Punk Rawk Ball. A bit confused as to why they were asked to play, they shyly walked in at the beginning of the night, not expecting much. They ended up being the last people in the bar, finishing whatever booze was on the shelf and promising to come back. And they have – again and again and again.

Following the much anticipated Korean debut of veteran post-rockers Do Make Say Think and acclaimed indie folk singer/songwriter Mount Eerie earlier this spring, Seoul-based promotion collective SuperColorSuper (SCS) have been busy unleashing a consistent lineup of indie’s most-talked about bands. The DIY project, spearheaded by former San Francisco Bay Guardian music writer/current noise pop musician, founder Sean Maylone and partner Christina Cho, are fast becoming Korea’s DIY mavens with an agenda to makeover what was largely considered until last year a lackluster live music scene. The profile on their official website reveals the group as being “dedicated to setting up shows of the most progressive and ecstatic artists” is validated by the long list of international acts they’ve put on tour throughout the peninsula. Aiming to supplement the stagnant Hongdae scene and overpriced stadium concerts with a fresh take on music in Korea, the promoters insist on fairly pricing shows and remaining adamant on only booking acts aligned to their discriminating tastes, which their rep quickly assured covers a wide scope of genres.The group confirms the following shows May lineup has been confirmed:

Xiu Xiu | May 5-8

Veterans of the Bay Area underground, glitchy art-pop outfit Xiu Xiu are set to tour in support of their new album Dear God, I Hate Myself. The outfit, fronted by self-reflexive and darkly charismatic Jamie Stewart (vocals, guitar) and collaborator Angela Seo (piano, synth, and drum programming), have prompted the likes of highly-respected music media outlets such as Pitchfork Media to offer praise for their unique sound of “cultivated chaos... complex music filled with insinuating books.” Xiu Xiu are sure to put on a show both candid, intense and strikingly beautiful in its eccentricities. Opening support will be offered by local noise-pop bands Ssssighborg and 10, returning from their NY area tour.

Round Robin Double Weekend | May 14-15

The May session of the ongoing Round Robin series will showcase an eclectic mix of international and local talents. The line up will include international acts, drummer Zac Nelson’s solo project Hexlove and California’s psychedicmath rocker Carson McWhirter (of Hella, The Advantage), alongside local bands Apollo 18, Ssssighborg and new political comedy Grindcore act Bamseon Pirates. The show’s concept, originally executed in 60s San Francisco psyche shows, then adopted by the east coast warehouse Hardcore scene, Channel 4 England, and later in Baltimore by Dan Deacon, has bands set up at the same time along the perimeter of a room with the audience kept center. Each band performs one song at a time with no breaks, back to back to back etc., until the show is completed. The idea is unique for having no headliner or opener, no front row or back of the room. Expect an interesting crowd – a vibrant mix of hipsters, shoegazers, recordheads, grindcore kids...

DATpolitics | May 20-22

After having bounced around clubs and festivals around the world with the likes of Kraftwerk, Architecture in Helsinki, and YACHT, France’s favorite three-piece chiptune pioneers DATpolitics make their Korean debut in support of their latest release Mad Kit. The laptop trio have been at the forefront of the same electro movement shared by heavyweight French counterparts Daft Punk and record label Ed Banger and are set to bring their infectious high-energy blast of bubblegum glitch-pop to Korean audiences. All further details on www.supercolorsuper.com

MAY 29

www.hbcfest.com

music

The 2010 Hae Bang Chon May Festival By Conor O’reilly

Ernest Hemingway said that you should write drunk and edit sober. While I’m not an expert on drunken writing, I do know that if it wasn’t for a late night drunken conversation in the Orange Tree four years ago, and the plans made with the next day’s hangover, Haebangchon, the neighborhood of many nicknames, would be without one of the annual highlights of Seoul’s lively and diverse music scene. I am talking about the Haebangchon Music Festival, or HBC Fest. Held twice a year since 2006 it now attracts in excess of over 50 live performing acts spread over seven venues. Always expanding, the festival is a local neighborhood initiative guided by the wise head of Lance Reegan-Diehl who has been the central organizer since day one. The festival is considered ‘a gift’ from the local businesses who want to thank their regular customers and also invite other people, who normally wouldn’t venture down from Itaewon, to sample the delights offered in Liberation Village. The May fest is always a positive introduction to the hot and busy summer months. For me, it’s always been an incentive to get out and forget about the long winter, and this year it should be no different.With warm weather and good music going on all day, the festival has quickly become one of the most anticipated events on the summer’s music calendar. When it first started back in the summer of 2006, the festival pulled together around 20 acts in three bars, some of whom are still on the bill for this May’s festival. The three bars, Phillies, Here’s a list of some of the performers who Orange Tree and Ssen (now have already confirmed they will be playing: defunct), have been joined by • L.R.D. Band All-Star show the VFW (2007), Jacoby’s, HBC • The Two Guitars Café (both 2009) and Pita Time • Andrea Quartarone – From Catania, Italy (2010), the newest venue to • Kenji Onzuki – From Tokyo, Japan give patrons a great diversity • The Dear John’s of choice; even more so when • Johnny Red you consider that Phillies now • Yvon Malenfant opens its basement for a late • Darren Mullins • The International Goat Breeders night performance that goes on • Solitaire Love Affair long into the early hours. • Zak Calloway The list of performers is al• NeoTeen Idols ways changing and this year is • Mississippi Dave no exception. There are always • Ozzy Stu new acts and new faces and this • Jennifer Waescher is what makes HBC Fest spe• Like A Fox cial. Looking down the list of • G.T. Arpe this year’s performers, there at • Drunk and Disorderly least five acts that played in the • Angry Bear • Kimchi Cowboys first fest, while a lot of other acts have played at least once, and many have come back to play in new or different bands, or on their own as a solo musicians. As people come and go, the festival constantly seeks to find new talent and new experiences. Of course, being the Haebangchon Festival nothing is certain until the moment an act steps up on the stage, but if you ask me that’s one of its beauties. At the second festival in December 2006, there was no final band to play in the key 10 o’clock time slot at The Orange Tree. At the last minute, somebody spotted some wandering band members from Chester Story and the Glory, a popular rock/ country band at the time who later had a successful tour of Australia. They were asked to play and within 30 minutes they had set up and didn’t finish playing until 2:30 a.m., thanks to the intervention by the local constabulary. The festival’s influence is now spreading beyond its borders. Itaewon’s bars, Rocky Mountain Tavern, Stompers and Roofers, are also taking part by hosting bands which will have played at the festival during the day. It’s all part of an all day initiative to keep Seoul rocking. This year, as an extra incentive for all those not lucky enough to get on the bill, there’ll be a Guitar Hero Championship in The Orange Tree. For a small admission fee you can get the chance of winning a beer or two, plus half the entry money. Also, to celebrate the fine musical talents of the performers over the past four years, Lance, who also owns DEELEEBOB in Haebangchon, has arranged for a compilation CD of songs from performers through the years. The CD will be released in the second week of May. Don’t forget to pick one up, along with a HBC Fest official T-shirt, on the day. This year’s Haebangchon Music Festival will take place on May 29 and will kick off at 3 p.m.While spaces are limited, there are still a few time slots free. If you’d like more information you can find more at www.hbcfest.com

music

gizmos

By Lance Reegan-Diehl

Recording artist & music industry specialist

BAND IN A BOX – PG Music A very interesting music company that I have worked with, and whose products I have used is PG Music from Victoria, British Columbia. The software is Band In A Box. Over the years they have undergone serious development, however this is the first year they put all of their software and real tracks together on one copy-proof portable hard drive. Let me briefly explain what the program does. When you want to make backing tracks or write a chord progression to play on or sing on, you usually have to double track yourself or use a looper delay. With this program, you just type in the chords for any song using standard chord symbols (like C, Fm7, or C13b9), choose the style you’d like, and Band-in-a-Box does the rest, automatically generating a complete professional-quality arrangement of piano, bass, drums, guitar, and strings or horns in a wide variety of popular styles. The other cool thing that the program now does is uses real audio called RealDrums and RealTracks to generate unique backup arrangements that use parts played and sampled from real players and instruments. Gone are the clunky GM midi sounds and the ticky-tiny sound of those drums. This program can sound like just about any band you want. And make it convincing. The company has a lot of users who run this program onstage as their backup band when doing solo or duo performances. It’s so easy – you just type in the chords you need and the style. Band-in-a-Box is a powerful and creative music composition tool for exploring and developing musical ideas with near-instantaneous feedback. Over the years, many features have been added to Band-in-a-Box – Notation and Lyrics, Piano Roll, 16-channel MIDI Multi-tracks, Harmonization, the StyleMaker and StylePicker, a live performance Conductor window, Medley Maker, and 24-substyle Multistyles. The Soloist and the Melodist are popular “intelligent” features that generate professional solos or even create whole new songs from scratch. RealDrums adds the human element of a live drummer while RealTracks adds even more live session musicians, bringing the entire Band-in-a-Box arrangement to life. The Audio Chord Wizard has the amazing ability to analyze, extract and show the chords from audio recordings on-screen and then write them to the Band-in-a-Box chord sheet. The inclusion of digital audio features makes Band-in-a-Box the perfect tool for creating, playing, and recording your music with MIDI, vocals and acoustic instruments. Band-in-a-Box for Windows® can also record an acoustic instrument or voice to add to the composition, with processing through its own DirectX audio effects. Its built-in TC Helicon audio harmonies will turn your audio track into multiple-harmony parts or adjust its pitch, with vibrato and scooping effects for realistic vocal styles and up to sixteen choral parts. Everything is included on the 160GB USB hard Drive. Simply choose Mac or PC. The program itself usually sells for around US$499. You can log on to the website www.PGmusic.com and you may also visit your friendly neighborhood music and repair shop DEELEEBOB MUSIC. www.deeleebob.com

Reviews are provided by Lance Reegan-Diehl, recording artist, producer and music industry specialist. www.LRDMusic.com

Funk U! Words and pictures by Summer Walker

“We could intellectualize, but we don’t have to. We like talkin’ shit.” Waste management and laundry workers by day, local expat band Funk University has turned schoolin’ new recruits into serious business. Groove caught up with these guys at favorite venue, Freebird, for their third gig that day. Although distracted by Lord Valium’s velvet jacket,Tyrone Jelly’s guns and copious amounts of JD, this reporter was able to find out a little bit about what they are about and land some choice quotes. Funk U is everything you’d expect a funk band to be: horns, keys, skins, guitars and several vocalists. The lineup changes depending on the song and the night. They are jazz musicians at heart, yet are predominately funk. Most of the members have jazz degrees and will play just about any standard you can call. Professor Emeritus Dean Shuckafunk says, “Jazz is not a genre, it’s a religion.” The indie scene’s new obsession can please all types of crowds, and can flip a switch between Prince and hard-bop jazz depending on who is in the audience and what they feel like performing. “It’s all about producing the type of environment we want to be in.” This includes choosing who

they share a stage with. They often play with Space Rhyme Continuum, Pinnacle the Hustler and freestyle MCs. Funk U is seriously influenced by Parliament Funkadelic, but not for the obvious reasons. You see, one thing Parliament is famous for is not stepping down – they play until the audience can’t handle it. Funk University doesn’t get tired either, and wants to hear people begging: “Don’t funk us no more! We’re funked up!” The musicians that make up Funk University have played all over the world, but don’t want to leave the City-of-Soju any time soon. “Seoul is ripe for good music. Koreans didn’t grow up listening to good live bands.” Right now, the scene is eating them up. They will play anywhere, and are open to new venues, but consider Freebird their “living room club.” There, they will try out new charts, new vocalists and new ways to over-consume firewater. If you want to see them at their best, or perhaps worst, and certainly their most creative, check them out there. You should expect a lot from this band, and the future looks promising. They’ve got guest artists lined up, more varieties of gigs, and plenty of jazz and funk standards up their sleeves. Let’s hope they get into the recording studio so us fans can have a little somethin’ somethin’ to help us get funky at home.

Funk University consists of: Founders/Faculty Dean Shuckafunk: electric guitar James Choate: trombone (on sabbatical) SmickStik: trumpet Madskins: drums

Mangelo Spickett: electric bass (on sabbatical) Tyrone Jelly: keys

Faculty Franklin Butterscotch: electric bass

Adjunct Faculty Lord Valium: trombone

Freshman class Action Jackson: vocals Big Twinkie: vocals geteducated.funkuniversity@gmail.com

music | advertorial

TIME TO ROCK Just around the corner is the ‘2010 Korea Live Music TIME TO ROCK FESTIVAL,’ an enormous outdoor festival set to rock out on the Han River.

For this festival, two giants of the Korean music industry have joined forces — Mnet and Live Music Development Association. Organized by musicians from the Hongdae scene, the Live Music Development Association began the ‘Korea Live Music Festival’ in 2005, featuring a lineup of indie artists in the area, and it has been going strong ever since. Meanwhile, Mnet hosted the ‘TIME TO ROCK FESTIVAL’ in May of last year and even though it was the first one it attracted over 15,000 people to Jamsil Olympic Main Stadium. It featured both old and new Korean rock bands, such as Boowhal, the Kim Chang Wan Band, Jang Ki Ha & Faces, and Black Skirts. But these two music heavyweights have come together for one reason — and one reason only — to feature the best of the best in the country with a truly unparalleled lineup of domestic rock acts. The 2010 Korea Live Music TIME TO ROCK FESTIVAL features over 50 bands, including the YB Band (the “national” rock band), Nobrain (the so-called ‘Green Day’ of Korea), N.EX.T, Pia, Cherry Filter, TransFixion, and a host of others from various genres that are all known for their on stage performances. This year’s festival will try to distinguish itself from other outdoor music events by incorporating camping at the site. It will be the first camping-style rock festival to be held on Seoul’s Han River and will be easily accessible, so that anyone, even those not really into outdoor rock concerts, can come out without having to travel too far. Additionally, a program titled ‘Rhythmical Tonight’ has been set up to feature local amateur bands and there will be a number of other events, including air guitar and air drumming. The 2010 Korea Live Music TIME TO ROCK FESTIVAL promises to provide live music fans with a real taste of authentic rock.

As Much As a Rat’s Tail

BOOKS

The Ubiquitous Kimchi By Flash Parker

Reviewed by Drake Baer Slang hurries faster than a late night text message, and whether you’re native, gyopo or foreigner, As Much as a Rat’s Tail is loaded with the latest low-brow lyricism Hangul has to offer. The portable, well-bound paperback is ready to make a home in your pack or on your bookshelf, ready to be read in pieces or cover to cover. With helpful icons indexing ddokboki (spicey!) for sex-related terms, soju for (im)proper drinking etiquette and sushi for Japanese imports, the guide pops with bright design and readable ruminations regarding an entry’s radical roots revealing the underbelly of contemporary Korean. Entertainingly useful entries range from the foul to the sublime. The next time you’re at the bar and that cute girl says nui-ddong geulk-da – you’ll understand she’s saying you think your poop is thick; or, if there’s magic between you, it might be cheot nun, the first snow, referring to love at first sight. Don’t be a nong-ddaeng-i (do-little or dawdler), pick up Rat’s Tail and pump up your speech with fresh flavor. One caveat: if you’re an English teacher, you might want to keep it out of your classroom. As Much As a Rat’s Tail: Korean Slang, An Irreverent Look at Language within Culture is available at Seoul Selection and can be ordered on the What the Book? website.

The next time you’re at the bar and that cute girl says nui-ddong geulk-da – you’ll understand she’s saying you think your poop is thick.

Dinnertime in Korea can be a maddening, befuddling time. If you’re fresh off the boat from the Western world and you’re anything like me it’s hard to make hide or hair of the 196 varieties of kimchi, 32 cuts of galbi and umpteen gelatinous balls of sugary ddeok that bombard your palate at every turn. This is to say nothing of that age-old battle between metal and wooden chopsticks or the choice between 13 blends of soju (all mysteriously labeled fresh!) that inhabit eateries from Yongpyeong to Yeosu.Yet, once you work your way through a 30-page menu and entrees encased in two inches of furniture varnish for the first time you’re bound to discover a cuisine as delightful as any other on earth. But if you find yourself stumbling through the streets of Seoul like a soju-zombie in search of something other than a bulgogi burger, we can help. Can’t Miss Korean Treats: • pyeonyuk, head cheese • baek kimchi, white kimchi • soojeonggwa, Cinnamon Ginger Tea You’ve Been Warned: • hongeo, fermented skate • ojingeo sundae, boiled squid stuffed with blood sausage • jokbal, spicy pig’s feet As expatriates calling the Land of the Morning Calm home, Iron Chef Megan Ahrens and I have a unique perspective on the foods and customs of this beguiling, insular and ultimately charming nation. Our new cookbook, The Ubiquitous Kimchi, is not an effort to shock you with haute cuisine (though the sundae will certainly test your gastronomical fortitude), but is an effort to share with you something of the Korean “everyday,” a little slice of home as it has become. We’ve cooked up the foods that friends share on a Saturday night, the meals a family sits down to after a long week, the snacks boys and girls delight in after a 22-hour school day. This is Korea, and this is the food that we love. We’ve gone to great lengths to present more than 50 original Korean recipes and a half-dozen other homespun favorites. The paint is still peeling from my bedroom walls as a result of fermentation experiments gone wrong, the tandoor we borrowed from our favorite Indian restaurant is still on fire and I’m not sure if I’ll ever scrub the smell of weeksold brine shrimp from my skin, but the adventure has been worth the effort. We’ve learned that there’s absolutely nothing you can add to buddae jjigae to diminish its militant taste, you won’t blow up your own house fermenting rice wine, and indeed one man’s kimbap is not another man’s sushi roll. Now we’re sharing all this knowledge with the rest of the world. We’ve come away from the first cookbook experience of our lives ardent fans of raw fish in 100 different iterations and firm believers that the only good stingray is a dead stingray

By Peter Liptak and Siwoo Lee

and, sinking or swimming, it belongs on Poseidon’s plate, not ours.

Makgeolli

If you really want to impress your Korean coworkers and your friends back home with what you’ve learned during your time abroad, brew them up a batch of everyone’s favorite traditional rice wine, makgeolli. We promise that it’s fresher than that stuff you buy from the Makgeolli Man for a buck and we’re fairly certain it won’t make you blind. Serve it up with a Korean pancake duo of pajeon and bindaetteok and let your mind wander back to the time of your ancestral rites. Once you’ve brewed your very own Hongdae Hangover, make sure you sort yourself out with our gamjatang recipe. Makgeolli. 막걸리 / Korean Traditional Rice Wine Materials: - Cheese cloth bag - Large gallon-sized jar, cleaned and sanitized - Air-lock Ingredients: - 2 pounds short grain rice - 7 cups water - 1/4 cup nuruk (누룩, enzyme) - 1 packet wine or beer yeast Note: Nuruk is a fungus compound, a fermentation starter, and used in the preparation of many

Korean beverages. In Makgeolli manufacture it is used to convert rice to sugar, enabling fermentation by the yeast. Directions: Rinse the rice with cool water until the water runs clear / Soak the rice in cool water for two hours. The rice should be brittle at this point. Allow the rice to drain at least 2 hours before steaming / Steam the rice in a rice steamer for 1 hour.This will soften the rice and help convert the starches / After the rice is well-cooked, spread it onto a tray to cool to room temperature / Boil 1 cup of water and add the nuruk, stirring until dissolved. Set aside to cool to room temperature / In the large jar, add the cooled rice, 6 cups of cold water and the nuruk water. After stirring well, add the packet of yeast and stir again / Cover the jar and let it sit for 5 days at room temperature (7880 degrees Fahrenheit) / Stir the mixture twice a day during the 5-day period / After five days, let the mixture sit with an air lock for two weeks, or until the air lock stops bubbling / After the rice is done fermenting, use a cheese cloth bag to strain the liquor from the rice. The strained liquor should have a 12-17 percent alcohol content / Mix the strained rice with 6 cups of water, and then strain it through the cheese cloth again / This will produce a weaker beverage with an alcohol percentage of around 5-8 percent.

To order a copy of The Ubiquitous Kimchi visit: www.flashparker.wordpress.com

MOVIES

Korean Film

Reviews By Daniel joseph Vorderstrasse

May 5

Brothers Tobey Maguire, Jake Gyllenhaal, Natalie Portman May 13

Robin Hood Russell Crowe, Cate Blanchett, Max Von Sydow May 20

The Back-up Plan Jennifer Lopez, Alex O’Loughlin

A Nightmare On Elm Street Jackie Earle Haley, Kyle Gallner, Katie Cassidy May 27

Prince Of Persia: The Sands Of Time Jake Gyllenhaal, Gemma Arterton

And When Did You Last See Your Father? Jim Broadbent, Colin Firth

Bloody Ties (Sa-saeng-gyeol-dan)

May Story (Soon-ji)

Busan’s on the verge of disaster, again, but not of the natural variety. Lee Sang-do (Ryu Seung-beom) supplies what seems like the entire Busan elite (and then some) with crystal meth to cope with problems stemming from an economic depression. Narcotics Lieutenant Do (Hwang Jeong-min) persuades Lee to join forces, or spend two years in lock-up, and the two embark on a mission to quash the drug epidemic. Unfortunately, the scheme fails miserably, so the district attorney leads the investigation, taking all the credit for the $10 million drug bust and the public gratitude that comes with it. To make matters worse, Do is suspended and Lee is arrested, leaving the partnership in shambles and the city at the hands of the merciless gangster Jang Chul (Lee Do-gyong). Do, seeking retribution for his slain partner by Jang Chul’s hands, and Lee, motivated by dreams of a vast fortune, join forces once more to take down Jang Chul and his evil empire. Lee works his way into Jang Chul’s drug operation, with backing from Lt. Do, to gain information on the organization. The two play a dangerous game with men who don’t take betrayal lightly, seemingly always on the line between safety and disaster. First released in 2006, the movie has some older traits to it. The idea of a drug-running gangster pitted against a cop who’s willing to pull out all the stops to gain victory is not original. “Average” is the best rating it can be given. It just doesn’t have the plot or acting to hold the viewer’s attention and leave them on the edge of their seat wanting more. If you are ever looking for something to watch while multitasking, then this is the choice for you. Otherwise, leave it on the shelf at the store and pick up another film to enjoy.

A quaint countryside, seemingly secluded from the hustle and bustle of metropolitan Korea, serves as the setting for this independent feeling drama. Soon-ji (Jang Se-yoon) portrays an ailing female reeling from her personal issues spanning her entire life. She operates a restaurant, but constantly faces judgment from locals, mostly wives, for her provocative appearance and uncanny ability to wrap local men around her fingers. Soon-ji lives a clearly miserable life, but a shy knight-in-shining-armor dedicates almost every passing second assisting her to obtain an enjoyable life. Local police officer, Jeong Soon-kyeong (Yang Im-ho), is infatuated with Soon-ji, but she cannot relate to the young courtesan and his ways. While working late, three young men are dismissed from the restaurant, but Soon-ji personally delivers them a meal when they settle nearby. Here enters the stereotypical bad-boy Jja-goo (Kim Yoon-seong), who Soon-ji relates to like none other. Jja-goo has deep personal issues, which immediately unite the two through a dark emotional attraction. The supernatural connection leads Soon-ji to deceive her courtesan Soon-kyeong and yield to Jja-goo’s influence to raid the police station’s arsenal. Jja-goo passionate dedicates to martyr himself in memory of those killed in the famous May 18th massacre in Gwangju in South Korea’s democratic youth. Jja-goo, his buddies and live ammunition depart for Gwangju to prove their point. Participating in the uprising introduces Soon-ji to the void in her life among the shadows and demons she resides with. Although entertaining, certain flaws depreciate the movie’s values. Acting and scenery were quite up to par, but the movie did not have the “extrapunch” of great movies. No computer graphics were needed to convey the dramatic sways due to excellent camera angles and cuts to convey the film’s aura. The story comes together at the finale, but misunderstandings and confusion can be expected throughout the build-up to a fitting climax. “May Story” won’t win major awards at independent film festivals, but will turn some heads with an interesting spin, which can be dually entertaining and educational. Tinkling with these issues will elevate writer/director Park Kwang-man’s status and ability to produce excellent movies in the future.

First released in 2006, the movie has some older traits to it.

June 3

The Ghost Writer Ewan McGregor, Pierce Brosnan, Kim Cattrall June 10

The A-Team Liam Neeson, Bradley Cooper, ‘Rampage’ Jackson

GAME CHANGERS When I first tossed out the idea of doing a people issue we weren’t sure what to call it. Simply labeling it the “People Issue” was brought up but we thought that something more was needed. We wanted to focus on the value-added factor that many are bringing to our lives here in the ROK. Those who are doing something slightly different that affects the rest of us. When someone tossed out “Game Changers” we knew we had the concept we were looking for. A “Game Changer” is someone – or a group – who is helping to redefine the boundaries of our lives through their hobbies, passions and efforts. The cover, shot by Dylan Goldby, clearly demonstrates the theme. On it, you see local comedian Brian Aylward who came to Korea as a teacher and while here figured he’d give stand-up a try. Now he’s flying around Asia doing gigs and also putting a lot into the local comedy scene. He is by definition a “Game Changer,” which is why we figured having Brian smash a chess set for the cover would be perfect. If you take a look at the section, you’ll find a taste of the growing diversity that is around us. Our list is meant as just that though – a taste. We will be doing a follow up in a few months and we hope the next one is even better. Until then, enjoy the spring. Cheers, Adam Walsh Managing Ed.

Brian Aylward Luke Martin Peter Liptak Jeonju Artists Coalition Lauren Walker Edward Burgos & Viviana Serratos Bolam Yoo

Aaron Raisey and the Seoul Photo Club Ryan Goessl Todd Zitin Bobby McGill Jason Braedon Vincent Sung

40 42 44 45 46 48 50 52 54 55 56 57 58

game changers

A Serious Case of the

Funny By Tracey Stark

hen Groove Korea first featured Brian Aylward in October 2008, he was about to set off to Hong Kong for a comedy festival. He finished second out of 22 comics, and the rest, they say, is history. The Newfoundland native has been writing jokes since he was 16, but never had the guts to get up on stage until he was 31. “I lost a bet with my girlfriend (now his wife, Janice) that if she quit smoking for a month, I would do standup,” Aylward says. That was in November 2005 at Rockssins Bar in Anyang. “I did 14 minutes, which was pretty stupid. Usually you do six minutes for a while and work your way up.” (Janice said she lit up her first cigarette in a month the moment he went on stage.) Shortly after, he and Janice headed to Toronto to give the standup life a try. While there, Brian hit all the major (and minor) open mics around town, refining his act in a city known for great comedy. He finally landed a paying gig as an opener and received a whopping $80 and free drinks. Although it was a small amount of money, it served as a validation of his efforts. Four-and-a-half years later, the laughs haven’t stopped. In March 2009, Aylward started Stand Up Seoul, a monthly comedy night at Rocky Mountain Tavern in Itaewon (See Groove calendar), showcasing the best expat comics in Korea. “We’re now bringing in big-name comics every few months for shows at prestigious Seoul venues, like COEX,” Aylward says. Stand Up Seoul has since grown to include shows outside of the capital. “Wherever there are 40 or 50 English speakers who want to watch some good standup, we’ll go,” he says. He and a group of comics have performed in Busan, Daegu, Gimhae, Suncheon and Daejeon, to name just a few places

demanding a little funny. In a short time as a comic, he has already performed in Vietnam, Singapore, Hong Kong, Canada, Indonesia and all over Korea. In Singapore he met some booking agents and got the boost he needed. “Later this year, I will do shows in Japan, India, Malaysia and Taiwan. I like performing for expats across Asia. It gives me a great opportunity to test my material against the sensibilities of different cultures from around the world,” Aylward says. While four-and-a-half years may seem like a long time to be at it, Aylward is realistic about his experience level. “I haven’t really earned my road warrior badge yet. I have only been on the road days at a time, a week here and there,” he says. And for that reason, the English teacher/comic will probably leave Korea in about a year. He plans to perform at as many comedy festivals as possible in 2011. And getting on as many stages as possible, he says, is the secret to making it as a comic. “Mics, mics and more mics. It’s work, like anything else. If you want muscles, you go to the gym. If you want to be a comic, get on stage. Get on as many stages as possible. Anywhere. Anytime.” At one of his frequent venues, Tony’s Aussie Shop and Bar, the proprietor Tony playfully refers to Aylward as “a microphone whore.” That is a badge the comic wears with pride. His influences are wide, but tend toward observational comics like Bill Hicks, Chris Rock, Dave Attel and George Carlin. “I like comics who balance their comedy career ambition with social consciousness. I want to make people laugh and think. I might do a joke about tangerines, followed by a bit about human trafficking. No topic is off limits. Jokes are everywhere,” Aylward says. Aylward hopes to record his first live DVD before he leaves Asia. “It will be a compilation of material from my first five years in comedy.” Long-term, Aylward just wants to make a comfortable living and be happy being himself. “Brian Inc.,” he calls it.

In a short time as a comic, he has already performed in Vietnam, Singapore, Hong Kong, Canada, Indonesia and all over Korea.

Photo by Dylan Glodby 40

game changers

Living Comically Luke Martin of ROKetship

By Rishika Murthy

he life of a foreign teacher in Korea can be a pretty solitary existence. Sometimes, it can be days before social interaction with another English speaker is had. In the meantime, in those in-between days, when you’re sitting in your apartment, alone and hungry because you can’t eat yet another chamchi kimbap roll, you’re sick of the pizza place around the corner, oily fried chicken makes your stomach queasy and you’re too embarrassed to get McDonald’s delivered because the receipts are starting to pile up, Luke Martin is there to make you laugh. Or at least, make you grimace and say, “Hey! I can relate to that!” “My goal in starting the comic was to be the voice of foreigners in Korea – to share the things that we all encounter or think about with some humor and levity,” said Martin in a recent e-mail interview. “It’s tough to find ‘community’ in Korea. I feel like ROKetship is providing that in some small way,” he said. Martin and his wife have been living and teaching in Korea since May of 2008. He says their hearts are in Seattle, but, “I have really had a great respect and fondness for Korea, though it’s different in so many ways from home.” These differences and every day challenges the average foreigner faces are illustrated accurately and succinctly in his single panel comics which appear in various publications such as The Korean Herald, Korea4Expats.com and of course, the one you are holding in your grubby little waegook hand. Although Martin says he hasn’t had much in the way of formal training, he has had two other major comic projects: “The Daily Grind,” a comic about working in a coffee shop and “Rules of Engagement,” about a couple engaged to be married.

“It’s tough to find ‘community’ in Korea. I feel like ROKetship is providing that in some small way,” he said.

“My comics have always followed my life!” he said. As for ROKetship, Martin says that it’s the easiest strip he’s done to date. “What makes the strip so funny is that it’s based on real life!” says Martin. I just walk outside and am hit with 5 comic ideas, it’s great!” Martin describes ROKetship as a “cultural commentary.” The comic follows a foreigner struggling to adjust to daily life in the ROK. The humor comes as the character, quite often, just “doesn’t get it!” and is left puzzled, frustrated, and exhausted as even everyday chores seem to become epic challenges. Out of the tons of messages he has received, Marin says that only a handful have been negative. “I’ve received less than 5 pieces of negative mail, mostly people thinking that I’m racist and just glossing over Korean culture with stereotypes. I always respond that the strip is about a foreigner’s perspective which is usually making fun of US because we can’t understand the Korean way of life,” says Martin. Adding that once he explains himself people tend to get it. On the publishing side of things, “The Daily Grind” was gathered together in a collection in a book in 2003 and sold on Amazon.com as well as a handful of retail stores. “Rules of Engagement” ran as a webcomic and was nominated for “Best New Talent” award from the Cartoonists Northwest Association. Martin is aiming to publish a ROKetship book in June. However, if you are a fan craving an extra fix, the comic can be found at www.ROKetship.com and on Facebook for “silly weekly surveys, caption contests and…occasional extra sketches.”

game changers

Care for a spoonful? By Rob McGovern

or 10 days from March 20 this year the Jeonju Artists Coalition hosted their second spring exhibition of 2010 and there is more in the offing.

Poet, Publisher, Peter.

The group was founded in the spring of 2009 by artists living in Jeonju who got together to discuss their mutual interest. Brought together by their love for art, they created a group on Facebook to organize themselves and since then they have gone from strength to strength. The most recent exhibition was called 'Soup' and was a very professional looking show in the Jeonju Arts Center that had work from different mediums and from a variety of nationalities. The group isn't exclusive to expats at all and they welcome contributions from anybody, in fact there were 13 artists from several countries who contributed to the success of 'Soup.' The group is about art and members of the group have commented that their projects have enabled a lot more interaction with local artists and those interested in art. They have also unearthed both established and fledgling artists in the expat community. The group have started having monthly meetings

to make their exhibitions even more professional and the Facebook group, currently standing at 58 members, continues to grow. They hope that the meetings and the growing interest will not only bring more artists to exhibit their work, but that each artist will share their experiences and in doing so help each other develop both their talents and repertoire as well as giving the group more stability in the community. Hopefully Groove can play its part in helping promote them too, as spreading the word can be difficult. Groups of this nature can be seen in the eyes of local media as being expat projects, run by and for the expat crowd and as a result feel they have little to offer their readers. Hopefully that will change as more and more Koreans become involved. Short term goals for the group include continuing to exhibit and attracting more members as well as interacting more with the art community on the local, provincial and national levels. The group is keen to collaborate with other artists and groups from all over the country and the members hope that they have made some headway in this with their most recent project, as four of the artists

were from outside Jeonju. The group currently has two projects in production, 'I Spy' and 'Multiple Intelligences.' The first is a group-themed exhibit that will include one or two interpretations of that theme by each of the 11 artists. 'Multiple Intelligences' will be a monthlong project run in nine different coffee shops and/ or galleries around the city. Each place will have its own theme based on the psychological theory of multiple intelligences. The theory, proposed to more accurately define the concept of intelligence, claims there are nine basic types of intelligence and the group have reworded them to come up with their themes. In an effort to encourage and interest people on levels other than pure art, each weekend in September the group will host walking tours that will take in three of the nine locations, giving people the opportunity to discuss the theory as well as the art. Both shows are now closed to contributors, but there are plans for more projects, specifically another group project in November and workshops. Upcoming workshops include a pottery class scheduled for June and a group collage-making activity scheduled for July. Hopefully, a new workshop will be held every month from then on. The group has grand ambitions and would love to eventually get a studio in the city and are not above taking handouts to aid them, so if you want to join the group as an artist or supporter (financial or otherwise) you can contact them by visiting their website, www.jeonjuartists.com, you can email j.a.coalition@hotmail.com or you can find them on facebook by looking for 'Jeonju Artists Coalition.' 'I Spy' will run from May 1-31 and 'Multiple Intelligences' will run throughout September.

The Rise of the Exile by Drake Baer

“

All expats are exiles,” says Peter Liptak, founder of English-language Exile Press, “I think it’s a very conscious choice on the part of most people that want to live abroad — a step way beyond traveling — to throw yourself into another culture and figure it out from the inside out.” Founded in 2009, his publishing company is an outgrowth of that experience. He feels that by sharing languages, stories and a little vulgarity we can come to better know one another. With that in mind, he has began publishing As Much as a Rat’s Tail, a series of four books that explore Korean slang, idioms, proverbs and more. Subtitled Korean Slang, An Irreverent Look at Language within culture, the first helps you separate your dae-bak-i-da (that’s great!) from your gwang-i-da (it sucks!). And the Minnesota-born poet-copyman-publisher’s domain extends beyond lexical leanings. On any given day, Liptak can be found in the virtual office, copywriting, working with book designers, corresponding with Indian e-book experts, or talking with animation companies, putting together interactive English-learning e-books for the iPad. So how does it happen all at once? For Liptak, it’s about creative independence. “I’d written books for other companies and felt like I was getting raped by publishers. I wanted to explore the rest of publishing and do it on my own,” Liptak says. He had written a children’s book, a collection of poetry and many others — he wanted to be in control of all of it. After two years of studying printing, typesetting, and the rest, Liptak set out upon the labyrinth of publishing. “Books are the worst business you can get into if you want to make any 44

“I’d written books for other companies and felt like I was getting raped by publishers. I wanted to explore the rest of publishing and do it on my own,” Liptak says.

money, it really has to be a labor of love,” he says, waxing lyrical about the creative impulse. “It’s the same as someone who creates a piece of art, or by that same sense, somebody that builds a house: there are people who might do it to rush through, get the process done and get some money, but for me the process is about creating something that is fun or interesting and makes a difference to me, and hopefully to other people.” Through the press, Liptak hopes to cultivate connections. A particular word or turn of phrase can bring people together. One such experience gave the new series its title. Years ago, when he was hailing a cab in front of the American army base near Itaewon, a fellow foreigner was getting out. He was speaking Korean rather fluently to the driver. “Wow, you speak Korean well,” Liptak said to him, to which the stranger replied, “jui-ggo-ri man-geum (as much as a rat’s tail),” and expression equivalent to “oh, not so well.” Liptak was taken with the easy confidence, and has loved the phrase ever since — enough to use it as a title for a book series. Every time he gets into a taxi and speaks a little Korean, the driver days, “oh, you speak Korean so well!” A modest jui-ggo-ri man-geum always earns a smile and bridges the cultural gap. “And instantly, we’re comrades.” You can find more information on Peter Liptak at www.exilepress.com 45

game changers Raising awareness for the human perspective is key to the FreeNK mission; North Korean people are subject to more than just political oppression.

True North:

Strong and Free By Flash Parker

assion isn’t something that’s manufactured in a laboratory. You can’t practice passion the way you practice swatting baseballs out of the park in the spring, the way you practice transforming cabbage into kimchi. Passion is inherent, something you’re born with. It’s like machismo, only you’re not stuck with grease in your hair, a leather jacket in the summer or a toothpick dangling from your mouth. Passion is energy, pride, endurance, and suffering. Yet for all that passion is, for all its evocative power, it can lay dormant within a person, a slumbering sycophant biding time. When unbound from torpidity passion can manifest in marvelous ways. Doing the footwork for a grassroots NGO like Justice for North Korea takes just about all the gumption one can muster. That Lauren Walker is passionate is clear from the moment I catch sight of her skipping through Tapgol Park, stylishly early for our meeting.There’s urgency in her every step, an unmistakable vivacity. She’s relaxed and engaging, like she’s done this sort of thing before. Her openness, her enthusiasm, it’s toxic. Springtime-in-Alaska toxic. The kind of toxic you don’t mind zipping up in a bag and sniffing between classes. I want to know where this comes from. “Through no act of my own, I have had a wonderful life,” Lauren says. “I have never lost a family member to starvation; I have never risked my life for freedom from oppression; I have never been forced to live in fear of being arbitrarily locked away in a concentration camp. I am involved in the movement for North Korean Human Rights [Rescue North Korea, an initiative of JFNK] because I believe our love will start a revolution.” Immediately I’m struck by the 46

word human. Succinct stuff. The human perspective isn’t usually the one we think of when we think North Korea: we think of economics. We think of politics. We think of nuclear power and Kim Jong-il riding eagles to the summit of Baekdu Mountain. We think of Team America. Rescue North Korea is a wakeup call to those of us who have become numb to the politicizing. They focus on what really matters. “JFNK’s mission is two-fold,” Lauren says. “JFNK provides direct assistance to children, women, and men who’ve escaped from North Korea and are vulnerable to myriad life-threatening conditions. JFNK accomplishes this by raising funds and supporting activists who accompany refugees on the treacherous Underground Railroad through China.” Passion can’t be aimless or it’s rendered ineffective. Lauren and the members of JFNK aim their passion at anyone passing by. Often, they do so literally. “The other objective is empowerment,” Lauren continues. “The people that comprise JFNK are dedicated to educating through love and understanding in an effort to raise awareness and, from awareness, action. We educate through our multi-lingual weekly campaign in Insa-dong, documentary screenings, panels, benefit concerts and marches. We encourage people to resist the myth that the situation in North Korea is futile, and embrace the fact that there are innumerable things each person can do to create change and better peoples’ lives.” I’m not sure whether I find it bizarre or novel that a young girl from North Little Rock, Arkansas has come around the world to engage herself in a struggle for a people locked away in the most isolated country on earth. Yet here she is, fresh off a year of teaching and now studying Korean at a Buddhist university two hours from Seoul. She’s her group’s media contact, organizer, volunteer, activist. We talk about practicalities. “We link interested individuals to a number of excellent NGOs in Seoul that provide free English tutors, educational opportunities, and, most importantly, friendship to North Korean refugees,” Lauren says. “Many defectors face severe disadvantages after their arrival in Seoul. We encourage people to support change to foreign and domestic policy; we work at highlighting the current human rights crisis, as opposed to the potential nuclear threat, while demanding that the Chinese government

abide by the international law they are signatory to, and cease repatriating refugees to North Korea where they face definite imprisonment in political concentration camps, where torture is likely and execution a possibility.” This is heady stuff and not exactly typical fare for ex-pats. More of us join beer leagues and footy teams than crusades for human rights. Lauren and I talk about who JFNK is reaching, who they hope to touch in the future.“We would love to reach everyone,” she says. “I am continually blown away by the number of people residing in Seoul who have yet to be informed about this situation. Reaching the younger generation is incredibly important because many may be under the impression that this is a political or economic issue, rather than a human one. Being that our campaign is held in Insadong, we are fortunate enough to constantly come into contact with people from all over the world. This is essential to awareness-building for an issue with such an international dynamic.We’ve had very positive reactions from people the world over.” Lauren and the rest of the group, they give. It seems like that’s the one hallmark of the organization. I want to know what she takes out of her work. “Love,” she begins. “I take love, experience, a new family, and the thrill of being a part of something that’s bringing our world a little closer to peace.” Lauren discusses the initiative as if it’s the nearest and dearest thing to her heart. In more than a few ways, I suppose it is. She tells me that the principals of the organization are love, compassion, respect, and a willingness to learn and serve. Lauren has found her calling and unleashes her passion upon it. I would be remiss if I didn’t mention member Dan Bielefeld. Dan is part of the machinery that makes JFNK run smoothly. A quiet man of action, Dan is widely respected for his press work that contributes greatly to improving lives and living conditions of North Korean defectors living in Russia. To get in touch with Justice for North Korea:

RescueNK on Facebook Lauren E Walker www.seouldreamers.com laurenewalker1@gmail.com 010-2891-7897 Dan Bielefeld rescuenorthkorea@gmail.com

Photo by Flash Parker

game changers

MAKING MOVIES IN SEOUL By Chris Backe

recently sat down with Edward Burgos and Viviana Serratos over some burritos at Dos Tacos, eager to learn about their movie making while in Korea. Their uncommon backgrounds (Edward is 1/2 El Salvadorian, while Viviana claims to be “Mexican, Puerto Rican and Spanish, and a mix of some other passionate cultures”) give them a unique perspective on life in Korea.

Chris Backe: Tell us about yourself - how did you get into movie-making? Edward Burgos: I studied Politics at UKC University in Canterbury, England, but I had no idea what I wanted to do. Eventually I began teaching English, then moved to Korea in 2005. While in Korea, I began learning about cameras and cinematography. On my way to work one day, I was reading a camera manual while riding the bus. I was so engrossed learning about light refraction that I missed my stop. It was an epiphany — loving what you do is so important. Viviana Serratos: I free-fell 25 feet while rock climbing, broke the tibia and fibula in my right leg — the fibula being a compound fracture — and almost died in the process. I was 19 and unhappy in where I was in life and school. I had always had this intense interest in film and wanted to direct, but came from a family where something at that caliber was unreachable. After recovering from my accident, I ended up transferring to film school, found my true passion and began pouring myself into film making, eventually working in Hollywood as a director’s assistant. I was fortunate enough to be a part of the films “Pride and Glory,” “The Rocker,” and “What Happens in Vegas.” Working as a director’s assistant was a lot like being an apprentice — you’re always learning and doing something new and learning what a real director goes through. After the writers’ strike and the economy going south, I came to Korea to teach English and learn the culture. It’s been a great opportunity to create instead of just thinking about creating. CB: How did you two first meet? VS: We met over the 48 Hour Film Project [a film-making contest where a team creates and produces a short film in 48 hours] and I contacted Edward because he had a video camera, but, sadly, was already committed to another team. A few months later I was directing a short film, “THE RIGHT MARK,” and we talked over some beers and funky corn with ham, and we eventually realized that we could make some movie magic together. I just knew right then that he was an amazingly talented man. CB: What have you put together so far? VS: [One of my favorites] is on Vimeo. It’s called “The Last Request” and it’s basically a joke turned into a short film. Another of my favorites is on hitrecord. com — it’s called “Frequency,” but

you’ll have to see it for yourself. EB: I am in post production on an adaptation of a short story by Robert Heinlein, a contemporary of Isaac Asimov. It’s a cool noir-like sci-fi story about paradoxes. I hope to have it done in the next few months and have it up on my website. CB: Being an English teacher must take a big dent out of your day — how have you worked around the schedule? VS: Even after teaching, Taekwondo and Hapkido classes keep me busy during the week. But I always have a book with me, and I’m always thinking, jotting down notes to remember what I’m thinking about. EB: I go through phases — some months I’m super busy with work, other months I’m spending every spare minute editing, producing, and so on. My master plan is to get a university job so I can get 4 months of paid vacation every year and make films! CB: What drives you? EB: If I’m not working with a film, I wonder, “why not?” — I’m always seeing a shot, thinking of a short script and my brain’s always working. You never really clock out from this sort of thought. Even the vocabulary is important — learning what a Dutch angle is or the technical aspects of lighting gets me pumped, something I never thought would happen. VS: I left Hollywood because I felt it lacked originality — all they’re doing nowadays is remakes, movies of books, or just focusing on the special effects. In Hollywood, people want to use you to climb up. I’m going back there — but first I’m putting on a suit of armor for when I go back. The movies I work on now don’t have a budget, but it’s actually a blessing because you have to use your imagination. There’s also more freedom — there’s no investors or studios yelling at you to make the deadline. If you’re going to be a full filmmaker, you’re responsible for every step of the process. That means you’re always learning something new, and I have always loved learning. CB: What’s getting equipment like here? EB: It’s rentable for the most part, but you still have to know how to work it. If you’re serious about making movies, you might consider buying the equipment you’ll need.

to put these short films together like a quilt. Get a foreigners perspective of Korea and make it into a feature, having myself and other film makers direct these shorts. Also, I’m always looking for scripts to direct! CB: How can people get involved with your projects? EB: If you’re passionate about your art, I’ll work with you. You also have to remember that it’s a team effort. I’ve learned so much from the people around me that I have to ask, “Why SHOULDN’T I give back to the people around me?” Stick with your friends, and be generous with them. You should never lose your civility. The little extra kindnesses really do go a long way. CB: Any advice for other people looking into start something new? EB: Love what you do. VS: But keep a balance, or you’ll lose your head. EB:You have to take the first step. Don’t wait for someone to connect all the dots for you.You’re the one that has to make things come together. Don’t wait for a Korean partner to run interference or provide all the money you need. I tell my friends to keep me in check, to ground me. I can’t imagine becoming a sudden success story like that low-budget zombie film gone huge [“Colin”, which wowed crowds at Cannes was done on a budget of about $70]. CB: Anything else to add? VS: Just that I’m very impressed with people’s willingness to get involved in Korea — weather it be giving their time, losing sleep or offering their homes to be invaded by a bunch of strangers with a camera, people are there to do whatever needs to be done. I am blessed to have made a good group of friends who provide a great deal of support for my art. Thank you.

CB: What’s your current / next big project? EB: Right now I’m working with Root Experience, a theater group that emphasizes artist and audience interaction, breaking down the fourth wall and bridging cultures. I’m working with Simon Magnus, another producer and theater director to put together a feature-length documentary. I’m also starting a podcast where I talk about film — that’ll be at http://enanoski.webs.com. VS: I would love to make a short film with Korean actors and use a Korean pseudonym [to make it appear that a foreigner wasn’t at the helm]. I’m currently on a radio show TBS’s “Drive Time” every Saturday providing the latest in Hollywood Gossip. My main film goal while in Korea is to build a collection of people’s experiences of living in Korea — ideally, I want

game changers

Haiti:

A volunteer’s story By Bolam Yoo (bolamyoo@heraldm.com) Photos by Yumi Ha

hen I tell people that I went to Haiti for 11 days and 10 nights, they all ask me the same question — “To write a story?” It’s no surprise that they ask that, since I’m a reporter for an English teenage newspaper, the Junior Herald (sister paper to the Korea Herald). But in reality, that’s not the primary reason why I turned in half of my valuable vacation days for Haiti. My reason was simple; my heart went out for the people there. All I really wanted to do was to go there without second thoughts and reach out to them as a friend, not a reporter.

Working at the Herald, I get overexposed to news of all sorts, especially when there’s a big story that gets updated every couple of minutes. So back in mid-January, when the earthquake struck Haiti, all I heard and read about was how devastated the country was. Reading so many articles on Haiti and seeing so many heartbreaking pictures, my mushy heart couldn’t help but be stricken with grief. I longed to go to Haiti to help, but I was stuck with two major problems – how in the world would I go to Haiti by myself and what kind of help would I be able to offer? Thankfully, an organization that I’ve been actively involved with for about a year solved my two biggest concerns in a single shot. It had decided to provide emergency medical aid for Haiti and was recruiting for volunteers in early February. Since last year, I’ve been a member of a civic organization called 50

Korean Open Doctors Society, which is allied with Doctors Without Borders (Médecins Sans Frontières). Korean Open Doctors Society is an organization that aims to provide medical and other necessary services to third world countries by sending Korean doctors and volunteers overseas. Last year, I traveled to both Mongolia and the Philippines to participate in a medical volunteer program organized by the group. As soon as I saw the notice I immediately turned in an application. Of course those close to me vehemently tried to stop me because of all the horrific stories they heard on the news. They especially warned me of the contagiousdisease outbreak reports. To be honest, I’ve never done relief work so I would be lying if I said I wasn’t scared, but being stubborn, I chose to ignore everyone’s advice and stand firm in my decision. So after receiving a definite yes from Korean Open Doctors Society, I geared up – including four different painful vaccinations – and was ready to head into the unknown. On March 13, I finally departed Incheon International Airport with a team of 24 people – 14 doctors and pharmacists, 8 volunteers and 2 staff members of the organization. It wasn’t an easy trip from the beginning because of the long traveling hours. A 14-hour flight to New York, another 4-hour flight to Santo Domingo and a rocky 8-hour bus drive from Santo Domingo … That’s roughly how much traveling time we had to endure to finally get to Port-au-Prince. In Haiti, we stayed at a residence run by a Korean missionary. The small, two-story house was occupied with three different Korean volunteer groups including ours. All had come separately from different parts of the world, one from the States and the other one from Brazil. It was heartwarming to see that Koreans living in different parts of the world were gathered in one country, under the same roof, for the same cause. Our team stayed in Haiti for five full days and assisted patients in three different locations most severely affected by the quake — Dèlma 57, Cité Soleil and Léogâne. My job was to hand out and explain the prescribed medicine to

the patients through a Haitian interpreter who would then inform the patients in their native language, Creole. At the sites, things worked very systematically, almost like at regular hospital.The patients would line up and consult with doctors according to their illness and then they would come to the “pharmacy” with their prescriptions to receive medicine. Haiti was the most underdeveloped, underprivileged country that I’ve ever been to. Seeing such poverty with my own eyes for the very first time, there had to be numerous moments of sorrow. One particular moment that sticks in my mind is when I was volunteering in Cité Soleil, a notorious shanty town known to be one of the most dangerous places in Haiti and also the same place where people eat mud cookies to stave off hunger. I was handing over medicine to a male patient and told him to take the medicine after a meal. The man kind of looked at me funny and blurted something in Creole that I didn’t understand.The interpreter looked at me and said, “He’s asking how he should take them after a meal when he has nothing to eat.” I was dumbfounded and became speechless. I didn’t know what to say nor knew what words would sound appropriate. Really, what is there to say in a situation like that? It’s not like he’s going to be starving just once but he may never have enough food for the rest of his life. I ended up telling him to drink plenty of water and he just shrugged and left without saying anything else. The look on the man’s face, his wrinkles and the hardened hands from days of labor, and the unrelenting poverty tore my heart apart. It was the most devastating and unfortunate scene I’ve ever seen. Another experience in Cité Soleil was when Korean Peacekeepers dispatched to Haiti had to come to protect us because of possible gang attacks. Supposedly, there had been an abduction incident in that area involving Koreans just before we had arrived in Haiti, so safety was an issue and protection was essential. So six Peacekeepers armed with big guns surrounded the volunteer site and watched over us. I personally found it kind of funny that guns had to be involved

On March 13, I finally departed Incheon International Airport with a team of 24 people – 14 doctors and pharmacists, 8 volunteers and 2 staff members of the organization.

with good deeds. All in all, the situation in Haiti was alarming but not as horrible as I expected it to be because I had gone during its recovery time. Of course, the country was still dotted with refugee camps and the sight of tents was endless. But yet again, I was able to leave Haiti with a hopeful heart. Although homeless, Haitians had smiles on their faces and were slowly recovering from trauma and regaining peace. They were moving on with their lives and that came to me as a relief. But one thing though, as I saw the logos of various international organizations on the tents, I couldn’t help but wish that more people from all over the world would reach out to these people not only in emergency situations like this but in other times as well. Really, the current crisis in Haiti is not solely a result of the catastrophic earthquake but poverty itself. Had it been a developed country, Haiti wouldn’t have been left in shatters like that, taking away the lives of millions. My visit to the quake-torn country was priceless and I wouldn’t trade it for anything else. While there, our team assisted a total of 1,920 patients. I hope my assistance was of value to them. All I can say is that you just have to live it to understand my experience. The tragedy is not over in Haiti and my heart still goes out for them. Millions of people living in makeshift camps still need and are waiting for help. Maybe you’ll be the next person willing to give a helping hand. 51

game changers

The Presidential Shutter Story and Photos by Flash Parker

hey call him The Incumbent, though no one is quite sure why. He lurks behind the shutter quake, a camera so large that eleven elves from Santa’s Workshop perished attempting to push it down the chimney. He roams the streets of Seoul, stalking photographic prey like an urban coyote. He is Aaron Raisey, a man of mystery, shadows and light. He is the President of the Seoul Photo Club.

Aaron Raisey Date of Birth: May 2, 1969 Hometown: Napier, New Zealand Korean Hometown: Jinju, Gyeongsangnam-do Time in Korea: 7 years Favorite Place/subject to photograph: Back alleys, urban landscapes, everyday stuff Website: gnomepress.wordpress.com

sanctioned to shoot the Seoul Metro Subway system. If you’ve ever tried to make an image in a big city system you know just how important a permission slip can be. Working with Aaron is about as easy a process as any I’ve encountered in life. Levelheaded, immune to stress, the guy is as sturdy as a carbon fiber tripod. I do my best to disrupt him, shake the due off his film.We’re at Olympic Park, the most scenic place in the city, for a magazine shoot that I’ve invited members of the SPC along to — just another way we help each other learn. But this time Aaron is in front of the camera, a place where few photographers are comfortable. A single bead of sweat is the only thing that betrays his icy symmetry, the silver gelatin print that is his face. He’s a film man in a digital world. “I shoot a totally manual medium format film camera. Everything has to be measured and set by hand; I even have to focus manually. There’s nothing quick or easy about it, but I just love the entire process. I appreciate the challenge, and the style I have to adopt in shooting this way suits my personality. Furthermore, it’s the getting back to basics that I enjoy. It’s all too common for the modern photographer to lose touch with what photography really is, being insulated from its essence by technology and software. Don’t get me wrong, I don’t mean just because you shoot digital you aren’t in touch with photography, what I’m trying to say is that the digital camera at best gets in the way of, or at worst actively prevents many people new to the hobby really understanding the core elements of photography.” An appreciate for film is one of the things Aaron has lauded in the group and in the last year we’ve witnessed a revival of sorts — more than a dozen members rely on each other for shooting tips and techniques as it relates to the old darkroom stuff. I ask Aaron why he took on a no-pay, low-thanks, heavy-headache job to goad him into slagging any aspect of his job, but he’s not biting. He diplomatically reflects the ribbing. “David Smeaton, a fantastic Aussie photographer who first started the group back in 2007 asked me to run it in late 2008,” Aaron says. “He was leaving Korea and was looking for someone to take over the helm so to speak, as I was one of the early members and quite active in the club. Sure, it’s no-pay, but not really low-thanks — I know that many people really do appreciate what they get from the club and it’s not really heavy-headache either. I do enjoy it.” We talk as I make images of Aaron and his photographic harem. It’s clear that he enjoys the interaction, obvious that he counts so many of these former strangers among his friends. He is no circularly polarizing filter; he brings us together, tosses out opportunities like pumpkin taffy from Ulleung Island. Between frames I ask him what he enjoys more than this; if I were strong enough to lift his camera or had a tripod made of adamantium I might have been able to use his own optical wizardry to see through him. “Seeing the development over time in members with little or no real experience in photography is probably the best thing about my job. Also, being exposed to many different perspectives of photography.” There are two dozen of us in the park — none of us knew each other before the SPC, before Aaron brought us together. I ask him how this happened, how the group evolved from an online community to a flesh-and-blood social networking vehicle. “Through the enthusiasm of the members. When the club first started, it was envisaged as primarily an online community with perhaps the odd photo walk somewhere in Seoul. Over time though, various members have come in with their own photographic interests and specialties and currently members are often involved in location shoots and writing for various English language publications in Korea. New members now get the opportunity to occasionally work with more experienced photographers. Also people hook up all around the country to engage in photography. For example, if you want to shoot in Busan, we have members down there that would probably enjoy helping you out.” And that’s what we’re doing here today, the sun shining down and a spring breeze blowing through the trees. There’s not a computer for miles.

Aaron was initially reluctant to be interviewed, dodging and burning attempts to get at the man behind Korea’s most important ex-pat photographic society. He doesn’t chase praise or accolades; he deflects them onto his active members — a robust 450 as of press time. Members run the gamut from burgeoning amateur to grizzled pro, yet Aaron somehow manages personalities as deftly as he does the natural light that flows into his 60-pound camera. Over a 6:00 a.m. coffee or convenience store Cass, Aaron proselytizes on the growth of what was at one time an internet-only club. “Seoul Photo Club has turned out to be a bit of a misnomer,” he says. “While initial intention was focused on Seoul, the concept proved very popular and quite quickly morphed to encompass all of Korea, with active members from as far away as Sokcho, Gwangju, Busan and even Jeju-do. It’s a place for photography enthusiasts from all over Korea to share photos as well as facilitate critique and discussion specific to things photographic in this country.” Aaron is quick to point out the advantages of joining the SPC and opening one’s self –- one’s own art –- to public evisceration. He’s aware that this may keep as many people from joining as it entices, but growth through constructive criticism is the hallmark of the group. “The biggest benefits are constructive advice, support, encouragement as well as being an outlet for your photography. What makes the SPC unique is that the structure is geared towards focusing those benefits on expat photography in Korea.You can pick up tips for shooting at various places around the country from those who have done it before, or even advice like the best places to buy film, or what might you expect shooting in the subway.” In fact, the SPC is the only ex-pat society in the country officially 52

game changers

Music to Your Ears Ryan Goessl and the Camarata Music Company By Chris Backe

y definition, a “Game Changer” is someone doing what other people have only thought about doing. Ryan Goessl, the man behind Camarata Music Company, has already accomplished quite a feat in bringing together a choir and orchestra of foreigners like us. I had the opportunity to sit down with the man — in his motorcycle outfit, no less! — to get to know him a bit.

One Stop News

Chris Backe: What inspired you to start a music company? Ryan Goessl: When I first arrived, there were almost no opportunities for foreign performers in Korea. The few opportunities that existed were there for the truly exceptional musicians. I started Camarata to make more opportunities for people to perform, instead of waiting for someone else to create an opportunity. [Now,] people are doing something meaningful and productive with their time, not just drinking beer on the weekend.

By Adam Walsh

s far as “Game Changers” go, one only needs to look as far as Todd Zitin’s site Korean News Feeds. It’s been around since last year but this month marks an improvement to your one-stop news gathering. As of this month, Todd and his team are rolling out a new section which will have news junkies salivating.

CB: What is your musical experience? RG: I have a Master’s of Vocal Arts from the University of Southern California, and I’ve taught vocal lessons here in Korea for the past several years. I do a lot of vocal acting and voice work within the Korean media, and I had a small part on “How I Met Your Mother” back in 2005. CB: So far, Camarata has had two successful performances - the Messiah last December and a performance of both Duruflé and Fauré’s Requiem more recently. What’s been the most surprising or interesting thing about them? RG: It’s been amazing to see the enthusiasm of the choir. Nobody is getting paid, yet they show up week after week to make some great music. They practice before coming into rehearsal, and it really shows. It’s incredible to listen to the singers blend — that’s one benefit of standing on the conductor’s platform. CB: Time to switch gears here. What’s your 5 year plan? RG: I want to see [Camarata] become a wellrespected, performance-based organization. I’d also love to begin working with Korean orphanages to increase their musical capacity. Camarata is registered as a non-profit organization within Korea, and we plan to keep all the money stuff transparent for anyone to see. Of course, making great music is a priority, as is getting to be respected and prominent within the Korean music community. CB: Seoul already has a vibrant arts and musical community — if you know where to look. How does Camarata fit into that? 54

RG: By the time you read this, Camarata will be a non-profit organization.The whole point is to make uncommon classical music available to people. Of course, I want the company to become prominent and respected by the Korean orchestras and musicians. There are plenty of rock bands and visual artists out there, but no one else focuses on the classical music that most musical forms are built on. That’s our focus — performing the music that’s not as commonly heard here, orchestra and all. CB: The majority of expats in Korea are teachers, so there’s bound to be turnover. How does the company deal with that? RG: There are always people leaving Korea, and we’re always actively looking for new singers to join the group. It’s a new choir every three months, but there are always enough like-minded people to keep the group together. Quite a few people come back for every opportunity we have to sing together. While there will always be room for singers

in the choir, there’s also plenty of opportunities to grow within the company.There’s always something to get involved in, and it’s a great chance for amateurs to mix with the professionals. CB: How do people get involved? Is it just for foreigners, or can Koreans join too? RG: E-mailing me [goesslry@gmail.com] is best.The [Camarata] website has a lot of information - www. camaratamusic.com - although we’re all over Facebook. Although there isn’t a formal audition process, I’ll listen to you to see which part you’d be best at. CB: So what’s coming up for Camarata? The rest of 2010’s season is pretty much set. We’ll have a concert of Brahms’ Liebeslieder Walzer in June or July, along with Bernstein’s Chichester Psalms in September and Handel’s Messiah in December. Our focus is on uncommon music — classical music you’re not going to hear anywhere else in Korea.

A trained teacher who is doing a masters degree in applied linguistics, Todd’s koreannewsfeeds.com now records 12,000 hits per month and is steadily on the rise. Hailing from Philadelphia, Todd was looking for a way to expand his cultural and humanistic understanding of the world when he decided to give life in Korea a try. “Teaching is my profession, world travel is my passion. Korea was a good match for me,” says Zitin who has been here for eight years now. Currently teaching at Chungnam National University, Todd had a desire to place alternative news sources together with traditional ones. A fan of sites such as Reddit.com, Zitin likes sites where top stories are chosen based on votes rather than editorial discretion. He feels that providing the news in such a way includes information that would never make it past an editorial meeting in a corporate-only news environment. “When juxtaposed together, blogs, social media and corporate news aggregation promotes critical media awareness leading to a more democratized digital ecosystem. The overall result is a critical thinking public who may also choose to participate in the process of information dissemination,” says Zitin. So after spending time studying media theory and even incorporating theoretical material into his university lectures, Zitin figured the next logical step was to start a website. Single page aggregators such as popurls.com which provide news through a visually palatable Really Simple Syndication flow quickly became the conceptual template Zitin was looking for. He wanted his model to provide Korean news, blogs, and social media through RSS feeds which he would choose. For the plan to see fruition, technical help from some friends back home was required. “I initiated a collaboration with my close friends, Michael Shannon and Nidhi Krishen who run SolutionMedia.net back in Philadelphia, to do the programming (which is open source) and Web design.” As for the site’s content, it was decided that local corporate media would go first, followed by expat blogs, a military section, a North Korean Section, Korean pop culture and even food blogs. Zitin says certain sites were chosen simply because they were popular, while others were chosen to provide a counter balance to traditional news sources. He states that it is important to note that he doesn’t choose the content of the news feeds. The process for his site is fully automated and his influence ends at the selection of the feed. He also

points out that if the feed is from Google, the aggregation is algorithmic. Korean News Feeds was up and running as of Halloween and things have gone fairly smoothly with only a couple small technical glitches, says Zitin. Though, he admits that a bit of creativity was required to obtain sources for sites that lack RSS feeds. “I can understand why some news publishers may not want to utilize RSS, but the reality is that sites like mine are driving web traffic back to the source.” Zitin says that so far feedback has been very positive. Much of the praise has been in the form of simple thanks for putting such a mass of news together for people’s perusal. As of the first of this month, the site will also have 100s of mini feeds at the bottom of the page. When you click on a mini feed, a box opens showing you the latest RSS feeds from the site. Todd and his team have divided the minis up into sections: international news sources, pop culture, technology and science, North Korea and analysis, food, miscellaneous and group blogs, and personal. Todd points out that these won’t be just ROK located blogs. Anything anywhere that mentions Korea will be included. When reached for comment, blogger Brian Deutsch, whose blog is listed on Zitin’s site, said it’s “clean, simple, and easy to use, and people seem to like it for those reasons. “The site seems in line with the trend of aggregating information into a single place. … Organizing all those feeds in one place is convenient for Englishspeakers in Korea looking for something to set as their homepage. It can be particularly useful for those new to the country, since it takes a while to learn where to go for Korean news.” Lecturer of convergent and online media in the Department of Media and Communications at the University of Sydney, Dr. Fiona Martin, sees things in a similar way to Deutsch. Martin feels that Todd’s site is a really useful service for news junkies or people traveling to Korea. Her views, however, differ slightly from those of Todd with respect to the scope of influence sites such as Korean News Feeds can have on the populace. Martin says that what Todd does is a form of curation because he is the one who selects which sites are deemed “important” for reading. “To suggest the site will promote critical media awareness or a more democratic media is stretching the point. Readers need to understand the political economics of Korean media, as well as something about each site’s history, place and importance in Korean society, to read these sources ‘critically,’” said Martin. She also pointed out that for aggregated news sites it’s important to know how things are filtered, whether there’s premium content for paid users, what is known about the authors and whether or not they can be trusted. For those sites which are deemed trustworthy though, Martin says that feeds are a great tool for the collection and dissemination of information. Trustworthy is what Todd is going for. He switches the featured expat blogs on a monthly basis and tries to be as little of a filter as possible. For Todd, it’s not about him, it’s about his readers and what they want. He’s made it so that it’s their choice, not his. 55

game changers

First Down: Korea!

The Man Behind Busan’s Favorite Magazine

By Roy Early

roove Korea may be the darling of the bustling city of Seoul, but Dynamic Busan has its own flavor of publication in Busan Haps. There is plenty to see and do in Korea’s second largest city. Expats (or any English speakers) who live in Busan know that they can count on Busan Haps to keep them informed of what the city has to offer, in addition to plenty of well-written and interesting articles about the people that make up Busan’s community. Recently I had a chance to chat with Bobby McGill, the Managing Editor and co-founder of Busan Haps. He shared many crazy tales and anecdotes about working for a big newspaper in San Francisco (his first year working with the paper could probably fill a Fletch style novel — which Mr. McGill says he plans to do in the next few years), but this is what he had to say about Busan Haps.

How did Busan Haps get started? In May of last year, my good friend Mike Schneider, who runs the Sunset Lounge in Haeundae, suggested we should get a magazine-slash-guide going. Mike is well networked in the area, and I have a strong journalism background from when I lived in San Francisco, so the partnership in putting this together was natural. Mike handles the marketing and promotion end and I put together all of the content and layout for the website (www.busanhaps.com) and the mag. We have a stable of about 20 talented writers that contribute their time to make it all come together. What is the dominant theme of the magazine? First and foremost, it is about Busan and what’s happening here - thus the name. The hard copy comes out every other month, running about 10 to 12 articles on who and what’s happening in the area.Then on the web, we run about 20 new articles per month. We are pumping out a lot of content about Busan. 56

by Ben Min

I regularly visit the Haps site, nice work there. You do have a ton of content and Haps seems to have all of the local events covered well, from pancake breakfasts to art exhibitions. That was, and continues to be, a driving force behind the project. The website lists restaurants, nightlife spots and things to do entertainment-wise on a constantly updated basis. Not to blow our own horn, but if you are thinking of visiting Busan for any reason, your first top should be busanhaps.com. I think you will find that the city deserves the nickname “Dyanmic.” The first year is usually the most difficult for a new publication. How has it gone for “Haps?” We started off not knowing at all what to expect. Fortunately, we were embraced by the city government from the start and were given exclusive distribution spots in all of the tourist centers, including the train and ferry stations, as well as both terminals in the airport. The initial advertisers covered the print costs – mostly friends who owned bars or ran hotels.They really got us off the ground. The magazine grew quickly in the public conscious and we have been fortunate to receive a lot of support from the business community as well. Things are looking really positive going into our second year. “A lot of support?” You mean dough? Actually, no, and we don’t expect it when factoring in printing and distribution. We are doing this for the fun of it. Korea, and specifically Busan, has been good to us, we enjoy living here and we want to put together something that people living or visiting here can use. Right now, I donate my time and enjoy being the editor, which basically means I get into a lot of good stuff for free. The publication itself is registered with the government as a business, but being a business is not its intent. Primarily, it is a fun project for us that involves a lot of talented people donating their time and effort. What is your take on the expat media in Korea overall? I think we are well represented and well informed. Of course, there is your magazine Groove as well as 10 putting together some nice stuff, along with the local Seoul magazines.Then, there are the regional players such as Haps and of course the great work that Craig White and his group are doing with Daegu Pockets.There is also a rich source of blogs pumping out a lot of good content. I would say overall, we expats as a community, are pretty well plugged into all that goes on here on the peninsula.

or millions of Americans the mere mention of football can set the mind ablaze with memories; cheerleaders, fight songs, tailgating, beer, burgers, hot dogs, and of course, cheerleaders.

But for those Americans living here in Korea, it’s hard to experience the joys that American football has to offer because we’re often watching the games after they’ve already happened, playing that wonderful game of staying off the Internet, and also avoiding e-mails and phone calls from people back home who watched the games live. While the time difference is something we are unable to change, one man, Jason Braedon, is taking matters into his own hands to bring the true experience of American football to the ROK. He’s taken it upon himself to organize a brand new football team to play in the KNFL this coming season. And he has a lot of support. The KNFL (Korean American Football Association, www.kafa.org – Korean only) is the governing body for American football in Korea. The league’s administration and coaching is all done in Korean, and following the lines of professional sports in Korea, the league also restricts the number of foreign players allowed on each team. The result was frustrating for foreign players who are used to a higher level back home. So Jason decided to act by forming a team of mostly foreign players to address the difficulties Korean coaching staffers have when coaching and communicating with them. Sponsored by Sam Ryan’s in Itaewon (www.samryans.com) and with over 40 potential players expressing interest, the team is off to a good start. If all goes well, the next step will be to formally apply for KNFL league play in 2010. Jason is waiting to see how the turnout goes during these practices before putting up the money to enter the league. Also, Jason doesn’t know if the KNFL will let the team play in the league because of the foreign player rule. He’s keeping his chin up and his fingers crossed for when decision time comes. Though much remains up in the air, Jason is operating for the eventuality of getting accepted into the league. Even though the team will operate in English, Jason does not want to create an “Us against Them mentality.” “I don’t want to create problems or animosity between us and the [KNFL],” Jason explained. “And everyone is welcome, even those people who have never played before or just want to support the team.” Also, Jason is not thinking about the upcoming season, he has a long-term goal in mind. “I want to create something like what the Seoul Survivors (rugby) have, a good network of guys who share a common interest and a support network.” With established ex-pat leagues in Hong Kong and Japan, Jason wants to eventually take the yet-to-be-named team abroad and host other teams in Seoul. For the moment though the immediate goal is to establish the team and get them ready for the season this fall. Practices began on April 17 and will continue for the next twelve Saturdays into June. Jason is also planning for at least one, possibly two scrimmages against Korean university teams during that time. People interested in joining the team or helping out should contact Jason directly at seoulfootball@gmail.com. Everyone is welcome, so please come out because cheerleaders do make football better.

Practices began on April 17 and will continue for the next twelve Saturdays into June.

Note: The KNFL is the highest level of American football in Korea.The senior league has between 6-10 teams a year from all over the country. There is also a university league with about 25-30 teams. The winners of the senior league and the university league meet for a championship match called the Kimchi Bowl in mid-January. 57

game changers

Vincent Sung:

Le Bon Viveur Story and Photos by Flash Parker

he Muhak building is a few steps from Cheonggu station, smack in the middle of an upscale suburb of Seoul. Strange then that walking through the busted double doors into the concrete foyer I feel like I’m stepping into a crack den in Harlem. Not that I’ve been to visit many crack dens mind you, but I imagine this is what one would feel like. Shady characters ducking and dodging in and out of hallways illuminated by filthy, bare incandescent bulbs; odiferous liquids seeping from cracked walls, pooling in corners; a noticeable lack of fire extinguishers. As I take the fifth floor to Studio 504 I remind myself that this is the way artists ground their personalities, the way they imagine they feel connected; they surround themselves with realness. In the case of Vincent Sung, Busan-born, Belgium-bred visual artist, producer, photographer — this is the hyper real. Vincent is well known to anyone who has followed the fashion scene in Seoul or Asia since the early 1990s, though his fame — and his bank account — has ebbed and flowed in step with his inspiration. He’s motivated again, producing art at a level and of a quality that for years kept him in demand at Vogue, ELLE, Harper’s Bazaar and Marie Claire. He’s reintroducing himself to the world of fine art — a world with a short memory, indeed — with his first solo exhibition since 2002. Les Fleurs du Mal, running May 9 – May 29 at BERLIN Lounge in Itaewon, is a bombastic personal testimonial on natural beauty, contrasting the plastic aesthetic that marginalizes so much of his commercial photography. Vincent and his crew are musing on shooting when I enter the studio — the professional space largely betrays the encompassing building’s nuanced atmosphere, thankfully — and greets me warmly. “Shawn! Fantastic to meet you,” Vincent says, springing out of his chair to welcome me. The first thing I notice about Vincent is the way he disarms people, puts them at ease. He’s collected and confident with himself, with his work. Absent is any trace of upand-coming artistic neurosis, no starving-artist secrecy. He invites me warmly into his process and shows me around, shows me proofs for the exhibition, tosses flowers that have been pasted to his models in my direction. “This thing is all about beauty,” he says, a simple musing intended to admonish all of what’s going on. We have some time to talk before Vincent works; the model he’s shooting tonight reminds us all just how small the community in Seoul really is, as she and I have been planning to shoot together for months. “Meliza [the model] is going to be great,” Vincent says, showing me the flowers he’s going to adorn her with. “She’s a little more experienced than some of the other girls I’ve shot for the exhibition, but she’s still very real. I wish to communicate this; realness in beauty, beauty in anybody. This is the women and the nature of the flowers transformed.” This is part of the organic aesthetic, the process of appreciating natural beauty. Talk of transformation puts Vincent in front of my lens. He directs himself the way he would one of his subjects, moving elegantly, waving flowers around the studio. I toss him a bundled bird’s nest from off the coffee table as I shoot. “This isn’t working,” we say in tune. Before I know what’s going on Vincent has stripped down to his underwear and wrapped his lower half in a black cloak. Visions of Terry Richardson careen into the off-limits section of my brain, but there’s nothing overtly sexual about this for Vincent, about shooting his models in the nude. It is about art and joie de vivre. “I can’t very well ask anyone to do something I’m not comfortable doing myself,” he says, in the midst of a Sumo-style power thrust. I suspect this is all part of his disarmament game, 58

as everyone in the room is laughing, having a good time. People love to work with, work for this man. “Keep shooting,” he says. “Take your time.” Vincent takes his turn behind the camera and I glimpse his creative process. The fluidity isn’t as surprising as it is remarkable. He works in perfect harmony with his team, altering looks and design so quickly that the model barely has time to breathe. I see so much of the artist’s personality in the process. “I never relax my eyes,” he says. “This is why my bedroom is blacked out. The slightest ray of light and I’m looking.” With a chuckle he adds, “I’m an official voyeur. But not in a bad way.” We’re playing with light now, too. There must be $50,000 worth of lighting equipment in the studio, yet the model is being illuminated by a cheap space heater propped on a chair. “This is looking now,” Vincent says. “With open eyes.” Witnessing Vincent create for the exhibition elicits questions of intentions. “I want the viewer to imagine,” he says. “Just imagine. Beauty can be in anybody. This is a question of realness, and I will allow my viewers to interpret the realness of the women for themselves. That’s why it is essential that I find authentic personalities. I find the models on the street, in clubs, in the grocery store. Then I match their personality to the flower and we create something that is veracious and still a little bit dreamy. Erotic, but not sexual.” These pieces are a combination of imagery and poetry, visceral collages of intent. “[Charles] Baudelaire came to me,” Vincent says. “His book, Les Fleur du Mal, it was written in Belgium. I like that connection.” The spirit of Baudelaire evocates a certain passion, one that Vincent literally transcribes onto his images. “There’s an artist who worked in Africa, making photos in the field, writing his diary on them, pasting bug wings to them, soaking them in animal’s blood. This is the type of connection that inspires me,” though Vincent isn’t always so inspired. “We say you are a starving artist for a reason. Art or food, you know? Right now I’m in a good place, but there was a time when I had to smash the piggy bank to scratch enough coin for a kimbap. But I also needed film. More often than not, I was shooting film.” How could this revelation surprise me? Art is sacrifice. Everything about this work, about this process fascinates and reminds me of Dave McKean’s visual poetry of The Sandman; a mélange of style and form next to impossible to conceive outside of the moment. Vincent shrugs when I say this. “I don’t like ugliness,” he says. For more of Vincent Sung’s work: www.visualsponge.com seoulartproject@gmail.com +82 (0)2-2235-8364

groovedining Dining Editor: Daniel Gray - seouleats@gmail.com

Coffee and Free Wifi in the City Written by Daniel Gray

These days, I don’t know anyone who doesn’t have a wifi enabled laptop, cellphone or personal media device. With the looming release of the iPad and other tablet-like devices, many cafes and bars in Seoul are equipping their establishments with free wifi. Here is a rundown of places where you can get a coffee and wifi access. *Note: This is not a ranking, the cafes are listed alphabetically.

Aa Design Museum

There is a design museum in the basement and a giant open cafe on the main floor. There is a garden outside for smokers. The main floor has many tables for people to sit and talk and there is a loft area with a lot of Electrical outlets for people who are there to do some work. They have excellent panini sandwiches and cakes there as well, both of which are homemade. Signal strength: Good Noise level: Average Average price for a drink: 5,000 won Location: Hongdae. Go out Sangsu Station Exit 2 Electrical outlets: many Restrictions: None Other information: The museum is usually open to the public on weekdays. Wine and beer is also available

Beansbin Coffee

Made famous by their main store in Samcheongdong (north Seoul, by the Blue House), here you can get decent coffee and a sandwich for only 5,500 won. They also do waffles piled high with ice cream and various other toppings. Not a bad place to go. Signal strength: Good Noise level: Low Average price for a drink: 4,000 won Location: at Sinsa Station, Samcheongdong, and Samgaki Station Electrical outlets: A few Restrictions: None Other information: They have free-trade coffee

Caffe Bene

The newest cafe chain in Korea that’s very “bibimbap” (many things all-mixedup). It’s a book/cafe concept that does sandwiches, waffles, gelato, coffee 60

and smoothies. Surprisingly, they do them pretty well. The cafe is stylish and spacious. This is usually where I get my cup of Joe while I do some writing. Signal strength: Great Noise level: Average Average price for a drink: 4,000 won Location: All around Seoul Electrical outlets: A few Restrictions: None Other information: Waffle and gelato combination isn’t bad. They make the waffles fresh and the gelato is ok. Also, it’s not overpriced at around 5,000 won

Krispy Kreme

Warm donuts right out of the fryer and a decent cup of joe is what you’ll find at Krispy Kreme. The only problem is that there usually aren’t many seats and it’s very noisy. Signal strength: Average Noise level: Loud Average price for a drink: 3,000 won Location: All around Seoul Electrical outlets: 1 or 2 Restrictions: None Other information: Free donuts when the red sign turns on

London Tea

A new little cafe that does tea, coffee and brunch. It’s right down from Crown Hotel (it’s easiest to get to if you get off the 143, 401 or 406 bus at the Crown Hotel). They have great banana pancakes and desserts and the barista can make a crema rich espresso. Signal strength: Good Noise level: Low Average price for a drink: 4,000 won Location: Down from Crown Hotel Electrical outlets: 2 Restrictions: None

Other information: Great food and the owner is very nice

Madagascar

A photo gallery/cafe that is spacious and open. This location has been featured in several Korean TV dramas. It’s located on the backside of Sookmyeong Woman’s University, so it is usually filled with wellbehaved girls studying hard. Signal strength: Good Noise level: Average Average price for a drink: 5,000 won Location: Go out Hyochang Park Station Exit 2 and walk straight. Electrical outlets: many Restrictions: None Other information: There are many photobooks to peruse

Starbucks

Here you will need to be a resident of Seoul and have a Foreign Residency ID number. Once you register, you will be able to use free wifi for 4 hours. If you don’t have an ID, you will have to sign up through Nespot, which costs 3,000 won per hour or 12,000 won per day. It’s usually packed with people talking, so I recommend you bring a pair of headphones if you are planning on getting work done. Signal strength: Good Noise level: Loud Average price for a drink: 4,100 won Location: All around Seoul Electrical outlets: A few Restrictions: You must have a Korean Foreign Residency Card Other information: Get the Americano, for most places usually won’t let the drip finish brewing so you might get strong or weak coffee CONTINUED ON PAGE 67 59

grooveDining stuffed tomatoes

chocolate dessert

Zelen:

yogurt

Bulgarian Food Ain’t Just for Meat-eaters written and photographed by Chalica Pack of www.vegetarianinkorea.com

A meat-eating friend suggested I visit a Bulgarian restaurant in Itaewon. “Right,” I was thinking, “because Bulgarian sounds so vegetarian friendly.” After one failed attempt (closed on Tuesdays), I made it to Zelen, the Bulgarian restaurant tucked at the end of the alley where well-knowns like Curry Town and Tartine reside.

svinski medallion

vegetarian moussaka

I went at 5 p.m. on a Sunday, which apparently was the best time to go if you don’t have a reservation. We were able to get a table right away, and the sun was setting thru the windows during our meal, adding a glow to the European ambiance. Our waiter brought our menus along with a basket of warm homemade bread and dipping oil. I must say that I love a restaurant that offers complimentary bread. We started off with the stuffed tomatoes. Simply done with a cream cheese and fresh basil filling, the tomatoes were fresh and satisfying. For my main course, I tried the vegetarian moussaka. Described on the menu as, “oven-baked layers of vegetables and cheese topped with yogurt,” I found the dish strongly resembled a shepherd’s pie – meatless of course. It was served alongside a small rustic salad, and for 14,000 won, the dish was a steal. Rich and filling, healthy and beautifully presented, this is a dish to go back for again and again. My meat-eating dinner companion ordered the Svinski Medallion. I’ve been a vegetarian since birth, but that dish was good lookin. With potatoes, smoked cheese and a cream sauce, my dinner companion spent a solid hour savoring each bite. Seriously, I timed her. No meal I eat is complete without dessert. We ordered two different desserts to split. The homemade yogurt with honey is their signature dessert, but was a bit of a let down. Just a giant bowl of plain yogurt, with a drizzling of honey. The second dessert was listed as “chocolate fondant” on the menu, but ended up being a chocolate molten lava cake with ice cream on top. Fantastic. I was excited to find a restaurant with so many vegetarian and non-vegetarian dishes on the menu. I’m the lone vegetarian amongst my group of friends, so finding a place that pleases all of us is sometimes stressful. Zelen has an open kitchen so you can see what the cooks are preparing. They didn’t seem to mind me coming over and watching them work, and I was able to catch a glimpse of a few dishes that I will keep in mind for my return visit to Zelen.

Phone: 02-749-0600 Website: www.zelen.co.kr Directions: Itaewon Station Exit 1, take a right at the KFC, then a left onto the back alley behind the Hamilton Hotel. Zelen is at the end of the alley up a steep staircase on your right. 63

grooveDining

Steak is King at Mary Jane

Mary Jane in Hapjeong is a mix of class and raucous debauchery. The food isn’t half bad, but the cocktails are where this place shines. Bartender/manager Jake Kim is the master of mixology. He can take Wild Turkey bourbon and mix it with amaretto and banana liquor (the White Lotus) and make it taste like a sultry woman’s perfume. His other signature drink is what my friend calls the “panty dropper.” It’s off-menu because it is so dangerous. It’s apple juice mixed with passion fruit liquor and cranberry juice. After a few of these…your (or your date’s) inhibitions will be gone. But let’s not forget about the food. The steaks are good and so is the cheesy, meaty steak sub. It’s dang good. I could have eaten two, and I probably will in the future. Now my mother told me to eat more salad and I would, except that most of the damn salad in this city is smothered in honey mustard dressing. At least the greens at Mary Jane are good. I recommend they lose the dressing. Ranch would be good. The French Onion Soup is quite delicious. It’s cheesy, beefy and oniony – just the way it should be. The one thing I don’t recommend is the Shepard’s Pie. It’s all mashed potatoes with a tidbit of meat and gravy underneath. Nothing special. Although the burgers here are quite good. Overall, it’s not bad. I’ll go there for food and drinks when I get the munchies – not a bad way to spend an evening. Matt Baldwin is a new resident of Seoul. He enjoys drinking, eating and working on occasion.

By Matt Baldwin Photos by Daniel Gray

It’s easy to find grilled meat in Korea, but it’s hard to find a barbarian hunk of steak that is seared on the outside with a bit of pink inside. I’ve experienced Outback’s finest and I’ve found it subpar. What I can tell you is that Mary Jane blows them out of the water. Oh, and did I mention that on Wednesday you’ll be able to get a buy-one-get-one 300-gram steak with a coupon (sorry, but I gots to thank my sponsors)? Well, I just did. Look in the back of the magazine at the ‘Hongdae Directory.’ 64

Phone: 02-383-7170 Directions: Go out Hapjeong Station exit 6 and walk straight until you see the 7-11. Make a left. 65

grooveDining

Coffee and Free Wifi in the City CONTINUED FROM PAGE 60

Strawberry Shortcake (by Hong Sung Sa)

Very cute cafe that specializes in strawberry shortcake. The desserts are topnotch and not too expensive. The coffee could be better, but the coffee and cake sets are cheap; so I can’t complain too much. Signal strength: Average Noise level: Average Average price for a drink: 4,000 won Location: Down from Hapjeong Station Exit 5 Electrical outlets: a few Restrictions: None Other information: Get their cake and coffee sets

Suji’s

The Dragon Hill Lodge Celebrates its 20th Anniversary Story and photos by Daniel Gray

In the Yongsan area there is a great wall that separates Korea from America. The wall looks imposing with its concrete façade, the ribbons of barbed wire over the top, and the patrolling armed guards. Now what’s within the walls and outside is a huge contrast. While Seoul is cramped and fast and stressful, within the walls is a wide open, green space that is serene. Walking onto the base is like entering a Disney Movie. My Korean friends who have had the opportunity to go on base talk about it in wide-eyed revelry: “Beyond the walls there is so much space. And green. The trees are tall and there are acres of green grass – even the air is fresher there. And the food! There are limes and bushels of basil and fistfuls of meat. And there is parking! Lots of parking and the driving is calm and tranquil. You don’t feel like you are in Korea when you are beyond those walls.” The centerpiece of the base is the Dragon Hill Lodge – a mecca of all things America. As you enter, the high ceilings and oak furniture evokes feelings of being in a stately home. And the food? Wow. We are talking big, comforting and just like momma used to make it. I had a chance to taste their smoked brisket and pulled pork and it was like I was back in North Carolina. Their Mexican cuisine is excellent as well, for 66

it’s heavy on meat and they don’t skimp on the guacamole or sour cream. For dessert I had deep fried cheesecake with red, red strawberries. Delicious. In fact, last summer I traveled 18 hours on an airplane to taste all the food that I was having just minutes from my house. What I should have done was simply befriend a member of the military. This year marks the 20th anniversary of the Dragon Hill Lodge and they will be celebrating in style with a wine party on April 30 and May 1. There are also rumors that the entire military base will be going through changes in the next five to 10 years. The base will be relocated, but the hotel will remain as a resort. Then those without base access will then be able to enjoy all the American amenities without having to grab a plane back to the states. Until then, make friends with a U.S. soldier.

In my opinion, the very best brunch place in Seoul with the best sandwiches as well. At Suji’s, they make their own deli meats in house and will refill your coffee if you need it. Sundays when I was growing up meant the Sunday papers and pancakes. Now it’s the New York Times on my laptop and brunch. Suji’s seems like a good place to do it. Signal strength: Good Noise level: Average Average price for a drink: 5,000 won Location: At the west entrance to Itaewon near McDonalds. (Closer to Noksapyeong Station than Itaewon Station) Electrical Outlets: a few Restrictions: None Other information: Suji’s has dropped their prices by 30 percent in the last year, so it’s not as expensive as it used to be.

Tom N Tom’s Coffee

The coffee ain’t that good and neither is the food, but they have free wifi. Here the food is at least creative. You can get a big tower of bread topped with whipped cream or a dog pretzel – a hotdog wrapped in a pretzel. Signal strength: Good Noise level: Average Average price for a drink: 5,000 won Location: Throughout Seoul Electrical outlets: a few Restrictions: None Other information: None

Other places with free wifi: •

All American Diner in Itaewon

•

Beer O’Clock in Sinchon

•

Ediya Coffee (not in every location) around Seoul

•

Macaroni Market in Itaewon

•

19st. Neal’s Yard in Itaewon

•

Phillies in Haebangchon

•

Rocky Mountain Tavern in Itaewon

•

Sam Ryan’s in Itaewon

•

Tomatillo in Jongak

•

Wolfhound Pub in Itaewon

grooveDining

O’ngo Food Communications

Culinary Tours & Cooking Classes

Let’s face it. Korean food is intimidating. Soups come to the table boiling; the flavorings are spicy, salty and pungent; and often there isn’t a guidebook on how to eat Korean food. There are many confusing aspects of Korean food. For example, take a typical barbecue restaurant. The table is littered with sauces, side dishes, leaves, a small cup, a large cup, scissors, tongs, a little red button, etc. If you are new to Korea, it is mind boggling to know what to do. Then on top of that, when you order rice you get a bubbling cauldron of soup and more side dishes. I think someone should explain that the small cup is for soju, the large one for beer or soda; the scissors are to cut the grilling meat into smaller pieces (and the scissors are only used for food); and that the meat can be eaten plain, dipped in sauce or salt, or wrapped in a leaf with some sauce, a clove of garlic, etc. Also, the meat is considered an appetizer and for a complete Korean meal, rice and soup or naengmyeon should be eaten. Oh, and the little button is the waiter call button if you need something. That sort of explanation would make the food exciting and more approachable. O’ngo Food Communications has been working to develop tours and cooking classes that combines culture and the cuisine. All tours and classes are for new travelers and for expats who would like an insider’s view of Korean cuisine. We have several different programs available:

1. Korean Market Tour and Cooking Class

This tour starts with a visit to a traditional Korean Market to see the different produce, meats, seafood and other products available. Then you travel to O’ngo Food Communications Cooking Studio to view a cooking demo and then you get to cook your own Korean meal. The menu usually consists of a main course, two sides and dessert. It’s 55,000 won for the basic course (minimum four people per class). May 15 and 29. Starts at 11 a.m.

2. The Night Dining Tour

Written By Daniel Gray

Having been a part of many discussions on the best way to globalize Korean food, I decided to take some initiative and start something that I know will work: culinary tours and cooking classes. My company, O’ngo Food Communications, decided that we wanted people to learn about the food through culture. I’m sure Romanizing Korean names, promoting star chefs and writing catchy slogans will work for some; but the vast majority of people just see all that as white noise. The experiences people will remember and tell others about are their hands-on experiences of Korea and of the food. 68

This tour focuses on the Korean Drinking Culture and Bar food. It’s run on Friday nights (and by request). The tour starts at 6 p.m. at Kwangjang Market to see the different types of food available in the market stalls. Then we head over to historic Jongno 3-ga to visit a tent restaurant and enjoy Korean bar food with alcohol. Round 3 is a Garmaeggisal (pork) restaurant. The tour finishes with a makgeolli and pajeon tasting. The cost is 80,000 won per person (maximum five people per tour). May 7, 14, 21 and 28. Starts at 6 p.m.

3. The Korean Taste Tour

This tour starts in Insadong at 11:30 a.m. with a Korean food tasting of over 20 different Korean dishes. Then you tour Insadong to find the best restaurants in the area. The tour then goes to a traditional Korean tea house to do a tasting of five different Korean teas. The tour concludes with a tasting of Korea’s finest street foods. The cost is 80,000 won per person (minimum four people per tour). May 8 and 22. Starts at 11:30 a.m.

Contact Daniel Gray at seouleats@gmail. com or at 010-6661-7769. Mention you found out through Groove Korea and you can get 10,000 won off the Night Dining Tour and the Korean Taste Tour. 69

Restaurant

groove

Directory

Bar Bliss Itaewon Exit 1 (line 6) make the first right. It’s on the corner. www. picturetrail.com/barbliss. Price: 12,000-35,000. Contemporary cuisine and high-end bar. Great cocktails and patio. Beer O’Clock Head to Exit 1 of Shinchon station (line 2) Go behind the Hyundai Department store towards the 7-11. Turn left on the third street up. 2nd floor. English Menu and staff. #:02-333-9733 www.beeroclock.ca. Prices: 8,00024,000. Canadian Sports Bar with great wings, burgers, donairs, and pizza. Big Rock Brewery Head out Gangnam Station Exit 7 and make the first right and head up the hill past the GS25. www.bigrockbeer.co.kr. Prices: 5-15,000. Canadian Brewery with a great Sunday Brunch and good pub fare. Don Valley Exit 3 of Itaewon Station (line 6) below the Coffee Bean. English Menu and staff. #:796-2384. Price: 9,000 to 25,000. Korean Beef and Pork Barbeque and home-style favorites. Try the Wine Marinated Pork Belly. Gogitjip Out Noksapyeong Exit 2 (line 6) and walk straight along the street with the kimchi pots. English menu and staff. #:02-796-5528. Nightly bbq specials, generous servings, and open late. H-Diner Located to the side of Starbucks near the Capitol Hotel. English Menu. #:02-796-6967. Price: 6,000-20,000. American diner sandwiches, chili’s and entrees. Le Quartier Latin Go out Sinchon Station Exit 3 (line 2) and walk straight until you get to the big church. Make a right and walk about 500 meters. Look for the large French Flag. English Menu and Staff. #:02-333-9874. Prices: 4,000-26,000. Authentic French Bistro with reasonable prices. Naked Bar and Grill Line 6 Itaewon station Exit 1 walk straight and make a right at KFC. Naked Bar and Grill is next to B1 on the left. English menu and staff.#:02-794-4225. Prices: 5,000 to 40,000 won. The perfect after party place with great food and drinks. Naked Grill Naked Grill is located at Yongsan-gu, Hannam Dong 29-21 towards the U.N. Village. English menu and staff. #:02-749-4225. Prices: 4,000-12,000. Tacos and Homestyle American favorites for eat-in or take-out. Petra Restaurant Kebab House Exit 3 of Noksapyeong Station (line 6) and up the overpass. It’s located to the right. English Menu and staff. #:02-790-4433. Prices: 5,000-18,000. Authentic Arab food made by a certified chef. Excellent Falafel, hummus, and Sultana style lamb and chicken. Rookies Ichon (line 4) Exit 5 and walk in the direction of Yongsan station. Pass train tracks to your left. It’ll be on your left. English menu and staff. #:02-792-3383. Price: 4500-22,000. A sports bar with creative bar food and burgers. Sam Ryan’s Bar Go out Itaewon Exit 1 (line 6) and make the first right. It’s at the end, above 3-Alley Pub. English menu and staff. #: 02-749-7933 www.samryans.com. Price: 500-30,000. Sports Bar with 8 big screens. BBQ pork ribs on Tuesdays and great burgers all the time. Sanchae House (산채집) Go up around Namsan Mountain from Myeongdong Road. It is near the Namsan Cable Cars and the restaurant N’Cucina. English menu. #:02-7558775. Price: 8,000-25,000. Savory bossam and fresh leaf bibimbap. Spice Table Go straight out of Exit 2 from Itaewon station, turn left onto the first street (corner of Helios), Spice Table is on the left (2nd Floor) and across from Los Amigos. English spoken and English Menu Available. #:02-796-0509. Price: 7,000-25,000 (Cuisine), 8,000 Lunch Special Menu, 40,000-90,000 (Wine) Stylish Asian food to Itaewon using a fresh and flavorful approach. Vin Vino Go out Itaewon Exit 2 and walk straight. It is across from Cheil Communications. English Spoken and English Menu Available: 02-790-7034. Price 10-25 for food. 30,000 and up for wine. Sheik Wine Bar in the heart of Itaewon with a wide selection of wine and tapas. Wolfhound Go out Itaewon station Exit 4 and turn left to go down the hill and make the first right. English Spoken and English Menu Available: 02-749-7941. Price 10,000-20,000 for food. The best Fish-N-Chips and comfort food in an Irish Pub atmosphere.

Yaletown 400 meters from Sinchon Subway Exit number 2. Make a left at Beans and Berries. English Menu. #:02-333-1604. Price: 5,000-18,0000. Great Pub fare such as poutine, burgers, and nachos.

bars|Cafes

Up on the Roof “When this old world starts getting me down And people are just too much for me to face I climb way up to the top of the stairs And all my cares just drift right into space” — The Drifters

Hello Kitty! By Carly Pifer While not always keen on the people of Japan, one fat Japanese cat managed to sneak under Korean radar and scamper straight into their hearts: Hello Kitty. While feelings like love tend to linger, cafes in Seoul come and go, but this one came and seems to be here to stay. One day there was nothing and the next a giant pink café looming from an alley off the main drag in Hongdae. The owner plans to open another location in nearby Sinchon and perhaps expand from there. There is no doubt of the popularity that Hello Kitty still has at the ripe old age of 36, and girls who became women and now have little girls of their own flock to the café in hoards. Upon entrance the piercing banter of ladies and girls is ringing at a volume above the club music that plays through the place, but in a good way; the giggles are infectious. If laughter is good medicine, cute things are akin to drugs, and they come in all forms at this café, from the Hello Kitty door handle at the entrance to the Hello Kitty toilet in the back. Hello Kitty faces adorn the walls and shape the backs of chairs, and everything, everything, everything is pink and red! But inside this candyland fairytale, what do cute girls eat? Well, you can feast on a Hello Kitty face cake; but if that feels like eating your childhood playmate, another option is a variety of waffles with toppings galore. Don’t forget to order a cappuccino that is almost too sweet looking to drink with a Hello Kitty stenciled in cocoa powder on top. And should you want to prolong the fetishism, for a small price you can take home a ceramic mug so you can enjoy the world’s favorite cat everyday.

By Chris Backe With a name like Roofers, you’d think a rooftop would be a main attraction. I’m happy to report that the rooftop of Roofers is now open for business, brews and good times. Once upon a time, the rooftop had only a few tables and a barbecue - not exactly a lot going on. Thankfully, the powers that be decided to upgrade the rooftop with an ample outdoor stage and plenty of tables.There’s room for 70 when you’re sitting and easily 125 when standing – plenty of room to get your groove on. Don’t forget about the pool table, hookahs, and food available within the bar one floor down. With a large barbecue grill, a bar and plenty of seating, the only complaint I had was the lack of a view. The Itaewon skyline, while not known as the prettiest or most memorable, does still have some excellent sunsets. Thankfully, you can still excuse yourself to the stairway for that opportune moment. Having little access to the outside means you’re less likely to make a fool of yourself and there’s much less chance of falling four stories to the road. The newly-renovated roof already has some pretty stiff competition. Two relatively new clubs (Club EF and Club Atom) sport a number of flashy lights to attract your man won notes. Yet Roofers endures as the sort of place open to new faces, old friends, or friends bringing the new-and-still-culture-shocked teacher into the fold. It’s one of the few places that encourages people to form, or contribute to, communities in both the foreigner and Korean realms. Oh yeah, and plenty of foreigner-oriented events. From a performance of Shakespeare to a fundraiser for the victims of the Haiti earthquake, there’s plenty going on to keep you busy.

Speaking of events, here’s some stuff worth checking out in May:

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May 4 - Red Day Rooftop Party, where the bar introduces its sure-to-be-a-crowd-pleaser, buckets of beer.

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May 7 and 8 - Roofer’s Film Competition a chance to see some original films.

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May 15 - The official rooftop launch party. It’ll already be open by the time you read this article, but this is the party to kick things off. Featuring DJ Oilcan Boyd, along with shot and drink specials.

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For more information about these or future events, check out www.roofers.co.kr

La Mia Cucina The story of a man and his kitchen By Matthew Graveline Kim Sung yup’s story is right out of the movies. Successful businessman goes on world trip comes back to his co-workers having stolen the company’s money, decides to fulfill a dream to open a safe, relaxed place for everyone to get together and build a community. Kim came to Ilsan in 2003 and found it difficult to make friends. He was the owner of an internet company and back in those days “internet equaled money,” said Kim. Although he graduated from university as an industrial engineer, Kim admits his greatest strength is a little different from his degree. “I am a good planner,” he said shrugging his shoulders. He started an internet company that specialized in system integration and the first investment in 1999 was $1 million. Kim was sailing. As he went on to explain, he hired six guys to run his internet business where it was his job to put the programmer with the designers and tell them his ideas. Despite his business success, Kim did not drive a fancy car or have a huge apartment. All of his profits went back into the business. The company kept growing, so in 2001 he took a month-long business trip across Europe, China and Japan to establish strategic alliances with international investors and found some in a variety of countries, only to come back to find out that his accountant had taken some of his investments and left. But with his partnership companies and with a deal to build a project management system for Samsung, Kim kept building his business despite the huge loss. But Kim got bored. As the planner for his business, he had a lot of free time on his hands so he started to open pizza stores, finally ending up with 12 stores across Seoul and surrounding areas. “I had a lot of free time,” he said. “I also wanted to some offline business with my online ventures.” His company, called My Pizza, was doing well after three years, so Sunny decided to move to one big, larger space at Phoenix Park, a ski resort and golf course in the heart of Gangwon-do.

He had that space from the winter of 2006 to the spring of 2007, but had to close the restaurant because the ski season ended. The problem was when he returned to Ilsan after the restaurant shut down he found out that his co-worker and his coworker’s wife had stolen the remaining profits. He was left penniless again. He said they called and told him that the reason they stole the money was not because of him, but rather for their two children to go to university. Essentially he was upset, he said, but he got over it. “Money is like that sometimes,” he said. “Sometimes it comes and sometimes it goes. I am single. I can still survive.” So he took a midnight job at an Orange Mart Convenience Store and La Mia Cucina was born. Using his engineering and computer skills he created a 3-D design for a place, he said, that was to bring neighbors and strangers together and give them a kitchen to call their own. Having owned three pizza stores in the Ilsan area, Kim found an empty basement space straight out Exit 6 of Baekseok Station, and there he built and designed La Mia Cucina, Italian for “My Kitchen.” He purchased the space using the deposit money on his house and the little bit of money he earned working at Orange Mart. After three months of working, building bar tables, chairs, and installing plumbing, his pub was open for business in October 2008. And just like the man himself, this is no ordinary pub. Westerners took an immediate interest in its kitchen theme area along with old arcade games, library and pool table. Just a month after opening Kim hosted a large ex-pat Halloween party. Since then, the local kitchen has become the regular hang out for English teacher ex-pats and Koreans alike. Matthew Marandi is an English teacher from Geor-

gia. He is one of the regulars at La Mia Cucina’s. “All the stuff in the bar itself makes it unique,” he said. “It’s as if your best friend opened a bar in his garage...and never cleaned it. It’s sick!” Jason LaBarr is another regular at La Mia Cucina, or as many call it, “Sunny’s,” after Kim’s English nickname. He has struck up quite the friendship with Kim, even bringing back a bottle of liquor for him from his travels in Thailand. “He is an awesome guy, really chill, young and hip, you can tell that he has had quite the life, but you will never hear him brag about it,” said LaBarr of Kim. “Instead you will be greeted with a warm smile and a shot of Bacardi 151 on the house.” Kim has set up an unusual culture to his place as well by not keeping track of what people owe him but rather trusting that they will pay him back. He said he has 60 to 70 regular customers that come by up to five nights a week. As he tells this story, one of his regulars comes in and tells him he owes him money and passes it over it to him. Kim just smiles. “I trust them and they trust me,” he said. The other unique aspect of Sunny’s is its full size kitchen right in the middle of the pub. Kim prepares dishes from spaghetti to pizza to bulgogi salad right in front of customers and customers in turn sometimes cook food and pour their own beer freely with Kim smiling in the background. “It’s like a kitchen on TV,” he said. “If friends are visiting they just open the fridge and help themselves to beer or food.” And the former co-worker of Kim’s who took the money? He stops in from time to time and Kim greets him just like everyone else with a big smile. Kim’s favorite experience so far encapsulates the reason he created La Mia Cucina’s. “A few months ago, it was a Friday night and I was so drunk that I fell asleep on the couch around 3 a.m. More than 10 customers were still drinking in my bar,” he said. “The next morning I found my bar cleaned by some of my customers and several were sleeping beside me. One of them woke me up and we had a late breakfast together. Sometimes I am confused who is owner and who is customer.” La Mia Cucina is right out of exit 6 of Baekseok Station on Line 3. Right across from the big Doosan Mart. The big “La Mia Cucina” sign is hard to miss.

TRAVEL | international

Showtime in Shanghai By Vincent Sung Shanghai is shaking its tail feathers in preparation for the biggest show on earth. From May to October, 277 nations and an expected 70 million visitors will gather here for Expo 2010 Shanghai – a city that’s also fast becoming a creative hub in China. The first-ever World Exposition took place in Great Britain in 1851. A huge, temporary glass and steel structure was erected in London’s Hyde Park, called the Crystal Palace, in which all the accomplishments of the Empire – from the first fax machine to the world’s biggest known diamond – were proudly displayed alongside those of ‘less civilized’ countries. Called “The Great Exhibition of the Works of Industry of All Nations,” the six-month-long event set a precedent of stunning architecture inside which man’s most forward-thinking achievements were displayed. Whereas in 1851 just a handful of countries

participated in the exhibition, in 2010 a gathering of 277 nations will take place in Shanghai under the banner ‘Better City, Better Life.’ Covering a space of 5.28 square kilometers, more than 90 pavilions are currently under construction at a cost of US$2.63 billion, due for completion on May 1, when the expo will open its doors. During the expo’s run, China expects to attract 70 million visitors to the city, in the hope that a world expo will do for Shanghai what the Olympics did for Beijing. Organizers call the Shanghai Expo “not only a grand international gathering of people, but also a platform to celebrate human achievements. Urban sculptures, as the carrier of art, will enrich the cultural connotation of public places and landscaping of the expo site by means of subjectively embodying the theme ‘Better City, Better Life’.” While most of the structures are temporary installations, four are to become permanent fixtures

Here are some of the highlights to expect… CHINA

WHERE to GO in SHANGHAI:

Decorated in dazzling ‘Forbidden City’ red, the Chinese pavilion will stand proud with its signature Oriental Crown design, constructed like a traditional Chinese wooden structure using dougong brackets. This main structure is to become a performance center for traditional and contemporary Chinese shows, surrounded by a 45,000-square-meter joint pavilion featuring displays from local provinces, cities and regions.The permanent structure is to become a new landmark for the city, embracing classic Chinese identity.

By Vincent Sung

UNITED KINGDOM

A complete guide of Chic and Trendy ‘must-see’ places during World Expo 2010 SHANGHAI CHIC One of the largest metropolitan areas in the word, with a population of over 20 million people, Shanghai has long been a center of commerce and cultural exchange between East and West, making for one of the most diverse and intriguing cityscapes in China. During the 1930s a wealth of European and American buildings sprung up along the Bund, which now, sitting alongside the futuristic skyscrapers that China’s growing economy has brought to the city, gives it a feeling unlike any other part of the People’s Republic. While visitors head to Beijing to see ancient temples and Imperial palaces, Shanghai has emerged as a place to party throughout the night in cosmopolitan style. Known for years as the place to find big-brand hotels, situated in skyscrapers with stunning views and thronging, crowded lobbies, in recent years a new, smaller and more stylish scene has also been emerging.

Neri, Design Republic (www.thedesignrepublic.com) caters to the city’s growing demand for well-known designer goods. Expect to find names such as Philippe Starck, Charles Eames, Frank Gehry, Alessi and Reidel in this oak, concrete and bronze space.

JEAN-GEORGES

From acclaimed French restaurateur Jean-Georges Vongerichten (www. jean-georges.com), this restaurant in the heart of the city serves up modern French cuisine in a decadently stylish interior – there’s even sofas finished in eel skin. As one of Shanghai’s top restaurants, early reservations are advised.

JIA HOTEL

If you plan on visiting Expo 2010 Shanghai, here are the hip spots to visit, stay, eat and drink:

Taking its name from the Mandarin word for ‘home,’ this boutique residence uses fantastic pieces of one-off designer furniture to make it one of the most charming and original places to stay in the city. Located in a traditional building tucked away in a quiet but convenient part of the city, JIA Hotel (www. jiashanghai.com) is the first port of call for anybody hip and trendy visiting Shanghai.

140 SQM GALLERY

LE ROYAL MÉRIDIEN SHANGHAI

Sitting on the second floor of a French ‘heritage architecture’ building is 140 sqm Gallery (www.140sqm.com), specializing in conceptual art from internationally recognized and emerging artists. Owned by an experienced curator, Liu Ying Mei, the gallery has displayed the artwork of Roland Fischer, Mu Yu Ming, Zhang Jian-Jun, Tian Yibin and more since it opened in 2007.

DDM WAREHOUSE

Since 2000 DDM Warehouse (www.ddmwarehouse.org) has been host to hundreds of art exhibitions by rising Chinese artists, as well as live music. Every May, Rock for Charity invites local bands into the modernist, urban-industrial building to raise money for the Shanghai Sunrise charity that assists in the education of underprivileged kids. The gritty and sparse loft space makes for an interesting atmosphere, complemented by electronica music and indoor smoking.

DESIGN REPUBLIC

Owned by American-trained Chinese architects Rosana Hu and Lyndon

If you like your hotels to come with a little more brand recognition, check into Le Royal Méridien Shanghai (www.starwoodhotels.com). Part of the Starwood chain, this 66-storey building rises majestically into the city’s skyline, while inside you’ll find chic interiors.

M1NT

On the basement floor of the newly renamed M1NT Tower (previously Cross Tower) this exclusive members-only club caters to the city’s most wellheeled. CNN calls it “the exclusive cocktail club that caters to jet-set billionaires,” and its reputation is already famous thanks to other M1NT (www. m1nt.com) venues in Hong Kong and Cannes.

MR & MRS BUND

The gigantic menu at Mr & Mrs Bund (mmbund.com) was created by renowned Shanghai-based chef, Paul Pairet, and offers diners ‘global French’ cuisine in a stylish, ‘modern-regal’ setting.

Great Britain’s entry will take the form of a giant cube with thousands of needles protruding from it that sway in the wind, each tipped with tiny colored lights that display various images. Covering a space of 6,000 square meters, it is to be one of the largest pavilions at the expo, and inside will be an exhibition about how to bring nature back into the city. Continuing this theme, the structure will be embedded with 60,000 seeds to urge people to protect natural species from extinction – although what will happen to them once Expo 2010 has finished is still undecided.

AUSTRIA

The 2,000-square-meter structure to be erected by Austria promises to take visitors on a journey through snow-capped mountains, forests, flowing rivers and urban landscapes. The outer skin will be constructed from porcelain, painted in red and white to represent the colors of the Austrian flag. In a tribute to the 1873 Vienna International Exhibition, The Blue Danube will be piped throughout the space.

ISRAEL

Split into three sections – Whispering Gardens, Hall of Light and Hall of Innovations – the Israel Pavilion hopes to represent the dialogue between humanity and nature as well as put a spotlight on ancient Jewish culture. The Hall of Light will feature a 15meter high screen playing films that highlight the country’s innovations and technological achievements.The structure’s centerpiece, the Hall of Innovations, will show a special au-

to the city’s landscape, invigorating the modern face of Shanghai. At the center of this is the Expo Performance Center, a flying saucer-like monolith built to accommodate 18,000 people. Inside, it is to play host to leading cultural performances from across the world, while its outward appearance stands as a symbol of the city’s forward thinking approach to urban development. Expo 2010 will also be the first time the event has been held in a developing nation, and with 55 percent of the world’s population expected to live in cities by the end of this year, much of the 184day event is focused on sustainable urban development. Through inviting the leading countries of the world to come and engage with one another on such a grand scale, the hope is that new economic, scientific, cultural and technological approaches to human habitat will be embraced.

dio-visual show that allows visitors to talk with Israeli citizens via hundreds of screens, although the conversations will all be pre-recorded.

FINLAND

Taking the shape of an architectural interpretation of a kirnu, a rocky hollow formed naturally along the Finnish coast, Finland’s pavilion will be geared at exchanging local knowledge with the rest of the world, as kirnu also means ‘exchange of ideas.’ The open-air, three-storey space that covers an area of 3,000 square meters will be dismantled after the Shanghai Expo and moved to other parts of China for use as a restaurant, office building and library.

JAPAN

One of the largest pavilions on the expo site, Japan’s 24-meter high space that covers an area of 6,000 square meters, will place an emphasis on technology and how it can contribute to creating a cleaner world. The semi-circular design will make efficient use of natural resources with solar energy collection batteries and a double-layer membrane that can filter sunshine to coincide with its interpretation of how technology can better our lives.

ITALY

In chic Italian fashion, this stark-white pavilion made from a material known as transparent concrete will house opera, fashion shows and fine food. Its design comes from the game pick-up sticks, which is known as shanghai in Italy, with intersecting lines segregating the 3,000 square-meter area into the 20 different provinces of Italy.

UAE

Replicating the desert dunes that surround Dubai, the United Arab Emirates’ pavilion demonstrates how life can be sustained in such an inhospitable environment. Inside the structure is a demonstration of a zero-carbon city, one which uses air conditioning powered by solar energy, irrigates plant life with recycled water and utilizes electronic transportation.

EXPO ONLINE For those who won’t get the chance to visit Shanghai during Expo 2010, the organizers are creating for the first time in history a sophisticated online version. When completed, the website will allow you to journey through the entire expo site to see exactly what’s inside each pavilion. www.expo2010.cn

SPORTS

TRAVEL | domestic

Gongsanseong Gongsanseong (공산성) does not rank high on the ‘most seen by foreigners’ list. Then again, neither does the city of Gongju. Naturally, the Lady in Red and I had to check it out.

FIVB Seoul Open May 25-30 by Ben Min

By Chris Backe Originally called Ungjinseong, the mud fortress was used by King Munjuwang (475-477 A.D.) as the capital during the Baekje Dynasty. In 538 A.D., however, King Seong moved the capital to present-day Buyeo, although Gongju remained fairly important (and close to the capital) until the Baekje Dynasty collapsed in 667 A.D. The fortress was rebuilt with stones during the Joseon Dynasty, and King Injo hid here for a short time as well. You’ll pass a number of stele, or monuments, while walking towards the front gate. Most are modern-day recreations, but this one dates from 1817 to give thanks for a rebuilt bridge. After Jemincheongyo (the bridge) was washed away by Jemincheon (the creek), the town couldn’t afford the rebuild. They ended up raising funds from the nearby towns of Buyeo and Yeongi and rebuilt the bridge in August 1817. The original was destroyed to make way for the construction of roads, but was rebuilt in 1993. Walk along the wall of the fortress – the perimeter holds the most interesting sights, and the most recreations. From 1708, the monument remembers how King Injo stayed at Gongsanseong to avoid the riot by Yi Gwal. In 1623, Yi Gwal was part of a coup that dethroned Gwanghaegun to make Injo

king, and almost every other major leader of the coup was called to court. Yi Gwal’s ‘reward’ was to command his troops against the Manchus coming from the North. Yi Gwal responded in 1624 by bringing over 12,000 troops back to Hanseong (present-day Seoul), forcing Injo to flee while Yi Gwal took over the city. King Injo supposedly stayed in Gongju for six days to wait out the fighting. Originally built in 1734, this pavilion commemorates two trees appointed ‘high government officials.’ Wait, what? When Injo fled to Gongsanseong, he waited for news under two trees; after the rebellion was taken care of, he gave the two trees their new appointment and ordered the fortress to be called Ssangsuseong. Why? He’s the King. Who needs a better reason? The pavilion was built where those two trees once stood. Following the perimeter of the fortress around to the South Gate, or Jinnamru. Not pictured is the very modern view of Gongju you’ll get looking from the fortress towards the horizon. One highlight of the fortress – Imnyugak Pavilion. Originally built in 500 A.D., it was supposedly used as a reception hall for the king and his subjects.The replica, created in 1993, is simply huge – and nicely painted. Each of the two floors could easily hold dozens of people.Winding out the sights is Yeongeunsa, a temple originally built in 1458. The temple’s

claim to fame? The lecture hall was used as living space for monks fighting during the 1592 Japanese invasion. A temple probably existed before that, since six Buddha statues were found from the United Silla period (668 - 935 A.D.), but there’s no information on where they’re displayed today. A Lotus Pond, or yeonji, near the aforementioned temple – located right next to the Geumgang river. It was excavated and restored from 1982-1983, and features an interesting color of water. The fortress is quite interesting, easy to get around, and offers plenty of English-language signs. The area is still being improved, possibly part of a drive to increase tourism, so don’t be too surprised if you see a few new buildings. Although the views of the city take away from the natural scenery, it’s just as easy to look inward towards what’s been preserved. By itself, it’s worth a day trip to Gongju – just don’t expect to see many other foreigners while there. Directions to Gongsanseong (from Seoul): Get to the Express Bus Terminal (lines 2, 7, or 9 on the Seoul subway system).Take a bus to Gongju – it’s about two hours away, so buy a snack and drink for the bus. Once you’ve arrived at the Gongju bus terminal, take a cheap taxi (~3,000 won) to Gongsanseong, or cross the river and walk for about 3 kilometers to the entrance. Bus 100 stops in front of the parking lot of Gongsanseong. Admission 1,200 won for adults; open 9 a.m. - 6 p.m.

The SWATCH FIVB (Federation International de Volleyball) will continue their 2010 world tour with the Seoul Open on May 25-30. The tournament will be held in the Han River Jamsil Citizen Park with the world’s best beach women’s volleyball players. Defending champions Talita Antunes and Maria Antonelli from Brazil will look to hold off a host of other teams from around the world. Qualifying rounds will be played on May 26 with the main draw beginning on May 27. The finals will be held on Sunday, May 30. Specific team information, the main draw, and the tournament schedule will be available before the tournament on the FIVB website. www.fivb.org

health | advertorial

Something to Smile About By Tracey Stark When I used to think of teeth whitening, I always imagined a complicated, painful and sloppy process – a mouth full of chemicals and peroxide, a plastic tray that shreds your cheeks and gums, exposure to funky gamma rays and results that made you question your investment. But a few Saturdays ago, SeoulStyle.com’s Creative Director, Kelly, and I braved the Apgujeong crowds and made our way to HusHu clinic for a consultation and a full-blown whitening. Kelly’s vice – coffee; mine – red wine. The effects of drinks such as coffee, black tea and red wine on the teeth are harsh (and let’s not forget cigarettes, which, thankfully neither of us smoke). While Kelly’s teeth were far from brown, there was evidence of staining. My teeth, on the other hand, have had the benefit of regular cleaning and scaling through my three-year journey through orthodontia in Korea. Regardless, they had a strange tinge to them that no doubt was the result of my love for the grape. Upon walking in the door of HusHu, we were

health care SEOUL EMERGENCY MEDICAL INFORMATION CENTER (02) 3675-5178 or 3675-5179 Jongno-gu, Seoul

GLOBAL MEDICAL FACILITATOR

struck by the spaciousness of the place and the lack of a “clinical” feeling to it. Small café-style tables fill the room along with a few computers (free wifi), a pair of sofas, TV and a kitchen. The friendly staff at the front desk gave us clipboards with a basic information sheet to fill out and summoned Ellen Choi, HusHu’s marketing liason to talk to us. After a brief wait, we were led into Dr. Im Hyunggu’s office for a consultation. Im, 31, appears to be about 18 years old and has an easy-going (perfect) smile. He answers our questions with ease in perfect English and tells me his qualifications after I ask him his age. He’s been in the field for six years and practices general dentistry, cosmetic dentistry and also does implants. The HusHu book was presented to us explaining in easy terms what we were getting this day. We opted for the in-house whitening. This is a process that makes your teeth about two shades whiter, all in about 90 minutes or so, depending on your need for cleaning, scaling, etc. After the consult, Kelly and I were led to separate rooms and prepped for our 20 minutes under the blue light.

Other processes available include Brite Smile and Zoom. Both of these require three sessions under the lamp and Zoom involves the use of UV light as well as blue light, requiring the patient to wear sunblock around the lips and mouth.These two choices are more expensive, but are the perfect choice for someone about to have wedding photos taken or getting ready to go to their high school reunion.The end result of these is closer to six shades whiter. For most people who brush regularly, that would be “Hollywood White.” This takes about 3 hours including consultation, cleaning, etc. The in-house whitening is ideal for someone who is too busy to spend all day in a dentist’s office – even one as comfortable as HusHu. This can be done during an extended lunch hour or on a Saturday afternoon. The process is painless and if you bring your iPod you might end up falling asleep (like me). The lightactivated gel is placed on the teeth, your eyes are covered (or you get cool shades like Kelly had) and on goes the blue light. The only potential side effect I was warned of was tooth sensitivity that might last

Samsung Medical Center (SMC) english.samsunghospital.com International Clinic: (02) 3410-0200 or 3410-0226 Emergency: (02) 3410-2060 Ilwon-dong, Seoul

Gangnam IN Oriental Medical Clinic www.inisgood.com/content/c_view.asp?c_idx=399 (02) 547-8575 Gangnam, Seoul

Navid Dental Clinic www.naviddent.com/eng/greeting.asp (02) 790-7119 Hannam-dong, Seoul

Seoul National University Hospital (SNUH) www.snuh.org/eng International Clinic: (02) 2072-2890 Jongno-gu, Seoul

CHIROPRACTORS

Itaewon Chiropractic Center www.createwellnesscenter.com (02) 798-1446 Itaewon, Seoul

Myeongdong Ye Dental Clinic (02) 318-2255 Myung-Dong, Seoul Korea Dental Group (02) 733-1633 / (02) 735-1830 Kwanghwamun, Seoul / Gangnam, Seoul

StarParks www.medicalkorea.asia (02) 6337-1000. Emergency: (010)9991-0888. Yeoido, Seoul

Yonsei University Severance Hospital www.severance.or.kr/en/index.asp International Clinic: (02) 2228-5810 or 392-3404 Seodaemun-gu, Seoul

DENTAL CLINICS

Hus'hu Dental Clinic www.hus-hu.com 1588-9467 Apgujeong, Seoul

Le Dent Dental Office www.art-dentistry.com (02) 539-7675 or 3452-7674 Gangnam, Seoul

INTERNATIONAL CLINICS

ORIENTAL MEDICINE / ACUPUNCTURE

Yonsei Miplus Dental Clinic (3rd floor) (02) 3141-0028 Hongdae, Seoul Hong-ik Univ. Station, Exit #5

MENTAL HEALTH

International Mee Dental Clinic www.internationalmee.com/page/sub6_1.asp (02) 795-1500 Hannam-dong, Seoul

Severance Mental Health Hospital www.smh.or.kr (31) 760-9400 Gwangju, Gyeonggi-do

Asan Medical Center (AMC) www.amc.seoul.kr/eng International Clinic: (02) 3010-5001 or 3010-5002 Emergency: (02) 3010-3331 or 3010-3334 Songpa-gu, Seoul

Jaseng Hospital www.jaseng.net (02) 3218-3167 Apgujeong, Seoul Dr Yoon’s Oriental Medical Clinic (02) 790-9578 or 790-9577 Itaewon, Seoul

Dr. Park’s Pyschiatric Clinic for Foreigners (02) 563-0609 Seollung, Seoul

for a few hours. Luckily, neither Kelly nor I had any problems to speak of. After it was over, Dr. Im showed me the before and after teeth colors, using a color chart consisting of about 16 or so little teeth in varying degrees of whiteness (or yellowness). I was blown away by the difference. I am not one who spends much time looking in the mirror, but I had a hard time putting it down this time. For 400,000 won, I find it worth the investment. Ten teeth on the top and 10 on the bottom were whiter than I could remember them being in 20 years. If you want the Hollywood-white, the price is around 800,000 won for Zoom and Brite Smile and you can maintain that look by going in for follow-up visits every six months or so for 150,000 won. When we left the office, we looked like two people who had hit the jackpot – our smiles were wide again and we both had that self-esteem boost that comes from treating yourself to something really nice (and completely selfish). See you in a few months, Ellen and Dr. Im. To contact Ellen Choi to set up an appointment or a consultation for skin or dental, email: international@hushu.com. HusHu’s Apgujeong clinic is located outside of exit 3 of Apgujeong Station, on the third floor above Café Pascucci.

WOMEN HOSPITALS

STARSKIN Aesthetic www.star-skin.co.kr (02) 775-0886

CHA Hospital kangnam.chamc.co.kr/chaeng/about/01.html (02) 3468-3000 Yeoksam-dong, Seoul

K's Plastic Surgery Clinic (4th floor) www.kksplastic.co.kr (02) 541-7533 Apgujeong, Seoul Apgujeong Station, Exit #2

Miz Medi Hospital www.mizmedi.com/index.asp (02) 3467-3741 Daechi-dong, Seoul

Cheil Hospital & Women’s Healthcare Center www.cgh.co.kr (02) 2000-7000 Chungmuro, Seoul

SKIN CLINICS

TengTeng Skin Clinic (10th floor) webmaster@tengteng.com www.tengteng.com / www.tengteng.co.kr (02) 337-4066 Sinsa Station, Exit #2 Nova Skin Clinic (6th floor) www.novaskin.co.kr (02) 563-7977 Gangnam, Seoul Gangnam Station, Exit #7

PLASTIC SURGERY

BEAUTY & HEALTH

YE Medical Center (7th floor) www.yemedical.com (02) 541-7533 Gangnam, Seoul Cheongdam Station, Exit #14

MASSAGE

Healing Hands Samgakji, Seoul — Xi Apartment Building D-907 www.healinghands.co.kr. 010-3158-5572 / 02-2071-8090 Samgakji Station Exit #9

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Have you ever struggled with obesity and weight loss? If you are one of the many overweight men and women who are looking into surgical options for weight loss, you need accurate and reliable information to help you make the best decision. Bariatric surgery is known to be the most effective and longest lasting treatment for morbid obesity and many related conditions, and now mounting evidence suggests it may be among the most effective treatments for metabolic diseases and conditions including type-2 diabetes, high blood pressure, high cholesterol, non-alcoholic fatty liver disease and obstructive sleep apnea. Laparoscopic adjustable gastric banding (LAGB) has proven to be a safe and effective method of surgical weight loss since its worldwide debut in the 1990’s, and is fast becoming the most popular weight loss surgical procedure. Safety, reversibility and adjustability are the top three reasons why LAGB is the fastest-growing weight loss surgery. This bariatric procedure offers the hope of safe, substantial weight loss to those people who are overweight. By creating a smaller gastric pouch with a gastric band, it helps with weight loss by restricting food consumption and slowing digestion.The smaller gastric pouch and slower digestion rate lets an individual feel full sooner and longer. By limiting how much food can be eaten at any one time and reducing hunger sensations, it can help an individual eat less and, thus, lose weight. Lap band patients typically lose 50 percent of their excess body weight within two years after being banded. Weight is lost at a safe and gradual rate, about 1 pound a week, although some patients may lose 2~3 pounds a week in the first year after the procedure. We hope the information and resources we provide here can help you find the answers to your questions as you consider LAGB and that you successfully complete the steps leading towards weight loss success.

Beomeosa & Geumjeongsan By Dave Holt | photos by ian doyle

The ice on the top of the mountain was glistening in the evening light, but the air was still as cold as if the sun had just risen. Several birds were quietly singing and darting about in the chilly air and in the distance a Buddhist monk was heard chanting. Anytime of the year is a good time to visit Beomeosa Temple, but during a quiet Sunday in the midst of February was nigh on perfect. Beomeosa Temple sits upon Geumjeong Mountain and has done so for over 1,300 years, though the temple was sacked during a Japanese invasion in 1592. Reconstruction of the temple took several years but was restored in 1713 and has stood further Japanese invasions ever since. Originally built in 678, in the 18th year of King Munmu’s reign by ‘Venerable monk’ Uisang, it was originally much larger with over 360 rooms housing over a thousand monks, but unfortunately, many were destroyed by the foreign hordes. At its time of completion it was one of the 10 largest temples in Korea related to the Hwaeon sect (a Chinese form Buddhism), but along with other temples has since been converted to the Jogye order, (a more recognized Korean interpretation of Buddhism). Seeing these cracked, but magnificent buildings and the intricate designs that lay upon them, you can feel the intensity of what the Buddhist monks living within must have felt whilst their sworn enemy was approaching. It is such a quiet temple during the winter season that you could spend all day lurking around these ancestral halls in serenity. Anyone who has had the opportunity to visit the Forbidden City in Beijing will understand what it is like to find oneself amongst rare and perhaps forgotten ornaments. Some pieces are incredible, including roughly 50 portraits, 23 Buddhist tablets and over 1,000 pieces of recorded text. If you understand Korean, then your time will be well spent.

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busan Seeing this marvelous sight is one thing, but to experience it first-hand is something else. Luckily, anyone wishing to find out exactly how the Buddhist monks survive whilst living here can partake in a temple stay. For about 50,000 won you could enlist in a one-night/two-day Buddhist meditation session where you will learn how to channel your energy, understand their teachings and become more in tune with yourself.This is not something to be rushed into and not to be taken lightly. Starting at 1 p.m. on a Saturday, you will change into your Buddhist garments, be given a tour, taken for a light meal, and then you will begin a grueling two-hour silent meditation period. Absolute silence and stillness is required to set yourself free and become one with your thoughts, and if you’re in need of a toilet break then you’ll just have to

American Football by Dick Daly

cross your legs a little tighter and become detached from your being. That may sound easy for some, and perhaps it is, but waking at 3 a.m. to hike up Geumjeongsan in the blistering cold in nothing but the clothes you slept in will definitely sort the men from boys, or more importantly those who remembered their winter jackets and those who didn’t. Further meditation and some light breakfast is handed out on your return and thereafter you can listen and converse with your fellow ‘enlightened ones’ and discuss the teachings of Buddha, of Dharma and of why you thought this would be better than your average Saturday night. Geumjeong Mountain is worth a look, too, and the fortress of the same name is worth a visit especially in the misty evening rain. Built at the beginning of the 1700’s by King Sukdong to protect against foreigner invaders, in particular the persistent Japanese. It varied in height from 1.5m to 3m and stretched along for 8.2km and was the largest fortress of its kind in Korea. Unfortunately through the years of neglect it has suffered and now only 4km is still standing. The fortress encompasses the whole mountain peak, which itself stands at 801m, making it the tallest mountain in the region. At the summit stands an enormous rock and atop the rock lies a spring, the Golden Spring. Legend says: “A golden fish once rode on five-clouds and descended to this fountain from the Brahma heaven to play there. Thus, the mountain on which the fountain was located was named Geumjeong: The Gold Spring.” Whether or not a goldfish descended from heaven or not is not important, but what is important is the history of such remarkable places, which anyone can come and view. There are just so many hidden treasures enshrouded in these endless mountains of Korea that show us completely the footprints of their history. Directions: Take bus #90 at Beomeosa Station. Get off at Beomeosa and walk to Sanseong. For information on the Temple stay go to the website at www.beomeosa.co.kr or you can call 051-508-5726.

Every now and then guys like a little excitement. Some action. Something to smash or smash into, and sure, driving or walking on the streets of Korea can provide it’s share of excitement and the opportunity to get smashed into, but it can also be a bit dangerous. The next best thing... American football, of course. Did you know that Busan has its very own, full-contact, full-equipment football team. Korea has a small American football league and Busan has a team. Allow me to introduce... (drum roll please)... The Busan Gryphons! Joining the team is as easy as showing up and practicing. Commitment is minimal and practice is not too strenuous. While practice locations sometimes vary, most sessions are held in Sasang-gu. They are always on a Sunday and usually start at 3:00 p.m. Afterward, the team often meets for food and drinks. Most members, including the coaching staff are Korean, so the primary language is Korean. But, there is always one ore two players proficient enough in English to translate important details when needed. Playbooks are also provided so foreign players have the additional aid of the visuals to help understand the plays. A few years ago, the team lost its sponsorship and now requires a fee of around 200,000 won to cover travel and related expenses for the season. This can be made in several payments over the course of the season. For the experience it’s a minimal expense, soccer (or football for all those not from North America) often costs considerably more.You may also be required to purchase your own equipment, but most manage to get by with the dated, yet functional equipment that is borrowed or donated from the surrounding university football teams. Games are held once a month in different cities with no over-night stays unless you travel on your own.The team travels either by bus, ferry, or many players drive in a kind of Korean style caravan depending on distance and location. Last year there were no home games in Busan. This season there is one game scheduled in Japan, which will most likely require an over-night stay but this is a bonus and the chance to go head to head against Japan is something the team looks forward too. The team welcomes players from all skill levels and athletic (or non-athletic) backgrounds, but the amount of play time may vary. Seniority seems to be factored in the coaching process and play time. If a young player is competing with an older member for the same position, he may find himself watching more than playing. Although several foreign players with skill saw lots of field time despite their lack of senority. All told for enthusiasts watching football up close and personal is a reward in itself and playing an added bonus. It’s a great experience and a way to socialize with more locals and make Korean friends.There is a great sense of camaraderie among team members, which is one of the greatest things about team sports. For more information you can Google “Busan Gryphons” and translate the page (possibly using bablefish). They are always looking for more foreigner players. Or contact the Korean Football League.

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by Rebecca Payne

Mong Mong, Woof Woof, Bark Bark A foray into Dog Soup By Steve Wusyck

Unless you’re a vegetarian or a vegan, you have no high horse from which to wrinkle your nose down upon the meats of another culture. Meat is meat, and in fact canine, today’s culinary topic, makes more environmental sense then many mainstream carnivore choices, as it is grown quicker and uses less land and resources then the big three meat choices. It is also a lean and healthy meat, very low in cholesterol and high in unsaturated fat. Dogs also produce much less methane, the greenhouse gas that bloated cows and pigs produce in shockingly large quantities to produce pork chops and steaks for the meat loving world. It’s an Asian cultural food, a world food really, and if you live here and don’t abstain from meat altogether you should give it a try. Justifications finished, what is it actually like? Here in Korea, (the list of countries who do or have consumed it is long, hits every continent and most likely yours at one time or another), it is most commonly served as soup. Called boshintang, young-yang tang or sometimes mong mong tang, the latter literally translating to “bark bark” or “woof woof” soup. (The noise a dog makes in Korean is “mong mong.”) Interesting side note for those who don’t know, animal sounds are interpreted differently by every language. Okay, enough already, so how is it? It’s good, lean and quite tasty. Normally it’s served with skin like duck or pork. The skin is a bit chewy, but for those who like a good pork BBQ it’s quite similar. The meat itself is dark like beef, but leaner. It most resembles wild game in taste for those who have tried moose, deer or bear, (guess what country the author is from). Being gamey, the easiest description is that it’s like duck in taste and beef in texture. While most who come here are taken aback by the consumption of dog, it actually has an important place across every continent and human history. French news reports from the early part of the last century describe dog as “beautiful and light,” claiming there were long lines at butcher shops selling canine. In Canada today, it is legal to serve dog meat as long as it has been inspected by a meat inspector. In Germany it is called “blockade mutton.” Not to forget America, who has had many explorers and frontiersman whose explorations were, let’s say “sponsored” by dog meat. While Wikipedia says selling dog meat is technically illegal in South Korea, it also claims that more then 9,000 tons are eaten every year. The traditional method of harvesting dog meat where adrenaline was thought to add to the meat’s flavor is no longer practiced, meaning for those who think that dog meat is tenderized while still alive need not worry, it is now as humane as any other animal slaughter. So either get off that cultural high horse and live a little or turn vegetarian. To try dog soup, go into any smaller alley in Korea and look for a traditional style building. Look for boshintang or young-yang tang. It is typically eaten in the summer to increase blood flow, but it can be enjoyed year round.

So you think you’re an expert on Korean food? Or maybe you’ve just arrived here and are looking for something safe and not too unfamiliar to eat. Either way, the place to check out the best bibimbap in Busan is called Woojung’s bibimbap. Woojung’s is a family owned bibimbap joint that has been around for years. The thing to get is the marinated chicken dolsot bibimbap, a specialty bibimbap dish. In this dish, you will not be surprised to find corn, but you will be surprised to find perfectly cooked slices of potatoes all in a bowl that does not burn the rice, but gives it just the right amount of crispiness. It is by far the best bibimbap in Busan, and considering the number of bibimbap restaurants that’s saying a lot. According to many Koreans, Woojung’s first started out close to universities to attract students. This is a HUGE plus, because the prices are cheap. Even with the cheap prices, they do not suffer for taste or quality.The chicken bibimbap is only 4,500 won and you can get basic bibimbap for 3,500. There is a menu with pictures to make things easy just in case you are new and have not taken the steps to learn Hangul. Chicken bibimbap is uncommon and almost unique in Korea to Woojung’s, but a delicious twist to this popular meal. The word dolsot refers to the clay bowl in which the meal is cooked, its properties are famous for retaining heat and cooking food evenly.The bowl comes to your table piping hot and the rice makes a sizzling hissing sound when it is first served to your table. Dolsot bibimbap is a traditional Korean dish that has a long history and is a must try for any visitor to Korea. There are many locations around Busan. If you are around Kyungsung University, it’s really easy to find. It’s right under Ghetto bar. In Centum City, take exit 2 and turn at the Starbucks. It’s less than a block away. There are also locations at Pusan National University (P.N.U) and Busan National University for Education (P.N.U.E).

Miso Odeng, a small odeng shop located in Daeyeon-dong, is all about its friendly atmosphere. There is only one table for two people and the rest have to sit around a big table. Because of this seating arrangement, people naturally get into conversations with the people sitting around them, who are often complete strangers. They have styles of odeng that you would probably have not heard of such as mushroom, squid, sea cucumber, etc. One of the many reasons for its popularity is that they also sell beef tendon, which is rare to find in any other odeng bar. Mr. Yang Jae-won, the owner, claims that beef tendon alleviates arthritis. Tendon contains much collagen and is sometimes described as a natural arthritis cure. In a Japanese comic book called ‘Midnight restaurant’, it is said, “The three most important things in women’s lives are babies, men and collagen, which prevents them from aging.” Because of its friendly atmosphere, it is very common for strangers to become friends and for generous customers to ring the golden bell. How to get there: Subway Line No.2. Daeyeon stantion Exit #5. Across from Twin Pork broth restaurant Phone: 051-902-2710

Da-ri-jip (Legs house) Dukbokki is probably one of Korea’s most popular snacks all around Korea. It usually is cooked with red pepper paste and sugar. However, according to localities, black pepper, mustard, tomato ketchup, cheese or jajang (black bean paste) are added to it. For more than 25 years, ‘Da-ri-jip,’ located in Namchun-dong, has enjoyed its reputation in the neighborhood.Why is it called table legs house? Because viewed from outside the shop you could only see the legs of people sitting at the table with their upper body blocked by cloth. This was more than 20 years ago. Since then, it has expanded and a parking lot has been added. But due to its old view, it’s still called legs house. Because of the emphasis on hygiene by the owner Mr. Chung Sangsik, the shop is uniquely clean, unlike most dukbokki places. How to get there: MacDonald’s alley at Busan Jamo Hospital near Busan KBS Phone: 051-625-0130 Business hours: 12 p.m.- 12 a.m.

El Olive

A Taste of Busan The Busan Ilbo has joined with Groove Korea to provide our readers with a unique dining section. The foods in this section represent both Korean and Busan history, culture and of course food. While not all may be an immediate favorite for foreigners, such as eel or cod’s-head chowder, all are delicious, interesting and worthy of trying. Many of these recommended restaurants have been owned by the same family for generations and are in unique locations and areas of cultural significance.

Mi-So Odeng

Most are in areas easily accessible to foreigners or frequented by tourists and visitors to the city. Prices are typically very reasonable. They are also a treat, as the list is made up of many restaurants just off the typical tourist path, and so give a real feel for Busan’s local delights and style. For those coming down to Busan, May is the perfect month. Catch a show at the International Performing Arts Festival (BIPAF) and a great meal at any of the many places reviewed in the Busan Dining Section. If you’re brave, the beaches are warm and the water is only slightly chilly. Groove Korea would like to thank Mr. Park Jong-ho of The Busan Ilbo for providing us with these valuable reviews and working closely with our staff.

Located across from the Centum area, after a long period of construction, Mediterranean restaurant ‘El Olive’ has revealed itself. This 400-pyeong spacious restaurant with high ceilings holds only 11 tables. However, its menu is long enough to keep you coming back for months. Fresh olives are served to take you to the Mediterranean islands. Entrees start from 13,000 won and lunch sets range from 19,000-33,000 won. Don’t be surprised to find a whole octopus on your salad, hen clam vongole pasta, or gae-bul pasta. There are dishes that you will find familiar and will be craving again the next day. Sirloin steaks and lamb steaks are also recommended. Salt is served separately with sirloin steaks so that the tastes of the steaks are not affected by the seasonings. Figs are used in Gorgonzola pizza instead of honey. Seafood soup is filled with fresh seafood so that it could be mistaken for a main dish.The riverside night view from the restaurant is spectacular. The only things to be desired are its small servings and its prices in the evenings. Mr. Go Sung-ho, the owner, believes that one should be happy when having a meal. With a vision that this restaurant grows as a cultural space and not merely a restaurant, he designed this building by himself. He also plans to grow herb in the backyard of the restaurant. How to get there: Left of the Sooyoung bridge by the Sooyoung River. www.elolive.co.kr Phone: 051-752-7300 Business hours: 11:30 a.m.-4 p.m. & 6 p.m.-10 p.m.The bar is opened until 1 a.m.

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Bibimbap Me!

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Hard and Soft massage Rehabilitation of Physical Dysfunction, and Corrective targeted streches for muscle Imbalances, Shiatsu and trigger points therapy massage, Swedish blending with Deep Tissue and Traditional Ayurvedic, Foot Massage and Thai Yoga massage. Please contact Mel010 2892 9190.

Toastmasters International, every Thursday Night, near GyeongBuk Palace Subway station, for more information visit the following websites: www. toastmasters.org www.seoultmclub.net or Contact us at: profirving2001@yahoo.com Belly Dance Classes in English. Learn f i n e m u s c l e c o n t r o l o f t h e t o r s o, a r m s a n d hips, and interpretation of intricate music in English with an interesting group of women. C l a s s e s o n Tu e s d a y n i g h t s a n d S a t u r d a y mornings. All levels welcome. Contact eshe@eshebellydancer.com.

International Yoga schoolFurther your personal and professional experience and growth with a real Yoga Teacher Training in the only IYF Yoga school in Korea. Dutch teacher, 26 years experience, Yogacharya and secretary of the IYF for Korea. Yoga is not a rigid exercise/theory/discipline; Yoga is alive and very practically applicable in your daily life! www.magicpond.co.kr

Texas Hold Em in Ilsan - Weekly Hold Em throw down at cool bar in La Festa, Ilsan Tues & Thurs around 10pm & Sundays 7pm. Contact mrleon29@ gmail.com I'm all-in. May the flop be with you! I ntere s te d in T he at re? S e oul Pl a yer s is an all-volunteer community theatre group which does two English language shows a year. For more info, please email seoulplayers@gmail.com Interested in Surfing? There are trips throughout the winter to discover Korea’s secret spots and great waves. Please contact Nathan or Jack at Seoulboardriders@hotmail.com

3,000 New & used cars (Buy & and sell) near downtown Seoul/ USAG Yongsan, Insurance, English language navigation, mechanic facilities, accessories, Korean auto inspection services, email Century Motors at century.kr@gmail.com for more info or call Son Young-chan at 010-3143-1344

teams Handball - Team Handball - Olympic Handball - We often organize friendly games against Korean teams during evenings or weekends. Male or female players, beginners, intermediate or advanced players... everybody is welcome! Just email SEB at handballinkorea@gmail.com or visit w w w. handballinkorea.org St Pats FC — Looking for players for the upcoming season. If you can play a bit, contact seoulstpats@ gmail.com Seoul Saturday Soccer League - Looking for additional referees, players, goal keepers, new teams, for its Spring season, starting Feb/28th/09. Please apply to soccersaturday@hotmail.com and leave your phone contacts for more information. Gaelic Club - If you are looking for a physical and competitive sport, while also wanting some craic while you are at it, then check out Irish football, aka Gaelic. It is a mixture of soccer, basketball and rugby. Male and female teams meet frequently for training, games and social events. Please visit www. seoulgaels.com Touch Rugby - contact seoultouch@gmail.com and more information can be found at touchtagrugby. blogspot.com International Taekwondo club - looking for new members interested in taekwondo and cultural exchange on Sat& Sun 4:30PM ~ 8:30 PM near Konkuk Univ. Email to tm3ym@hotmail.com or visit to http://cafe.daum.net/arirangtaekwon Korea Ultimate Players Association – If you have been searching for some hot disc action in Korea, come out to play ultimate every Sun with the Korea Ultimate Players Association. We welcome players of all skill levels, from complete newbies to seasoned veterans. We also run leagues during the spring and fall. For times and locations, please visit www.koreaultimate.net Disc- G olf in Seoul - Look ing for something dif ferent to do and want to be more active in Korea? We are always looking for new people to play disc-golf every Saturday. contact discgolf@ naver.com

info@groovekorea.com games, including Dungeons and Dragons. Contact section8gaming@gmail.com.

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Bazzer’s Buddies Dog Walking Club Namsan, Han River and other outdoor areas around Seoul. A fun way to get out on a Sunday afternoon and meet new friends. Send an email to www.bazzerdog.com to find out when and where we will meet.

The Korea L acrosse A ssociation would like to involve more non-Koreans, with or without lacrosse experience, to participate in the growing tournaments and leagues. Please contact by emaiil parkpc@lacrosse.or.kr or 02-743-5291

Ko re a L at in & S a l s a Kore a L at i n a n d S a l s a welcomes new members of all ages and experience levels for parties, salsa lessons in English and Spanish, trips, friends, and fun. Please visit our website KoreaLatinAndSalsa.com

Football Club - Gecko's FC is looking for players, preferably with experience, for the start of the new season. We are a competitive team that also places a keen emphasis on social activities off the field as well. We practice regularly, play games on Sundays and take road trips once or twice a season. Please contact geckosfc@yahoo.com

Seoul Artists Network (SAN) have a bi-monthly open mic that takes place at Woodstock in Itaewon on the first and third sundays of each month. www. purevolume.com/jeremytoombs | www.myspace. com/jeremytoombs

Crystal Palace Football/Soccer Team – We are recruiting players of all abilities to join our games played in central Seoul. Please contact Alex at harryhowlett@hotmail.com or 010 3040 6114 Seoul Survivors RFC - Interested in rugby? Want to meet people from many different countries? Seoul Survivors has been around for over 20 years. We practice regularly and play a variety of different teams in friendlies, competitions and on tours. For more information, please contact Ian at koreanianr@ yahoo.co.uk or 016-897-6282 The Seoul Sunday Football League, a competitive amateur expat league, is looking for referees to officiate matches in Seoul and surrounding areas on Sundays. No official qualifications are necessary, but you should have a good knowledge of the game. Pay is 70,000 won per game. Also, if you are interested in playing, then we can also find you a team. Please contact: seoulfootball@hotmail.com Seoul Sisters Women’s Rugby Club: Looking for new members, both Korean and foreign, to grow the in-house league. No experience is necessary and there are great coaches to get you up to speed quickly. contact seoulsistersrugby@yahoo.com or check out www.ssrfccom Lokomotiv Goyang Football Club: Playing games in both Seoul and Goyang, we are a football team always looking for new members. Besides playing together, we have numerous social gatherings and occasional foreign trips every season. Please contact lokogoyang@yahoo.co.uk or check www.lokomotivgoyang.com

clubs B ellydance Clas se s in S e oul Tues night s & Thurs mornings. Belly dance is an energizing, low-impact exercise suitable for men & women of all ages. Reduce stress, improve balance & posture, strengthen & tone muscles, develop grace, reduce weight, and increase self-confidence! Contact bellydancekorea@hotmail.com

Writing Club Looking to form/join a writing group. Meetings would likely be on the weekends, t wice a month. My focus is on shor t f ic tion/ prose at the moment, but I would be open to non-fiction/longer works as well. email Bryan at scriptingends@gmail.com Lodge Han Yang #1048 the oldest Masonic lodge in Korea welcomes all visiting and returning brethren to attend our regularly scheduled meeting every second and fourth Wednesday. Contact lodgehanyang@hotmail.com for additional information Seoul Fencing Club — Seoul Grand Park in Ichondong. Please go to www.seoulfencing.com or email seoul.fencing.club@gmail.com. The Seoul Book Club, a new book club. We plan to meet once a month read and various works in English and then share and discuss our impressions, all are welcome. Please contact Sean at 010-36482861 or stm@iis.or.kr KH Toastmasters is a fun, supportive environment to learn public speaking and leadership skills in English. Our group is a dynamic mix of foreigners and Koreans, and we meet 8pm every Tuesday in Hyehwa. Guests always welcome. A map of our meeting location can be found at: khtoastmasters.com Sherlock Holmes Club will meet every second Tuesday day at Itaewon, 7.30pm. (Venue to be announced) A story from the canon, a short talk on Holmesiana, a Holmes quiz, and a Holmes movie: serious-fun. Email Morrison at morry_lee@yahoo. com.au, or phone 010-6376-3965. Southside Hash House Harriers: Do you like to walk, run and drink beer? Would you like to meet fun and interesting people? Well then, come and join the Seoul branch of this world-wide club that meets in a different location south of the Han River each Sunday at 11:00am. All levels of fitness are welcome, just bring along your sneakers and a sense of humor! Please contact Countess at smcrae77@yahoo.com Section 8 Gaming: we meet Sundays in the Seoul area to play a variety of pen and paper role playing

in taking par t in a group exhibition? Contact seoulcreative@yahoo.comForeigner/Korean Friendship Club: Our purpose is to meet at a bar on Saturdays to meet new people, introduce new cultures, share thoughts and have fun. Living in Korea with people from around the world, it is a great opportunity to better understand and learn from each other. Contact yupggiklub@hotmail.com or check out seoulcircle.com Fusion Art: Seeking members involved in various arts (painting, drawing, illustration, sculpture, p hotos and more) for re g ular me et ings and exhibitions to share information about colors and opinions. Please contact bakerycorner@yahoo. co.kr, chubbyhubby@hanmail.net or 010-64236037 Korean Movie Club: With English subtitles, people are now able to enjoy and understand recent Korean (and some non-Korean) movies and dramas in front of a 120-inch screen. The club is located just a minute from Sinchon Station. Please contact koreanmovieclub@yahoo.com or www.geocities. com/koreanmovieclub Seoul Stitch ‘n Bitch: This club has a crafting get-together the 1st and 3rd Sunday of every month in Haebangchon, Seoul, Please contact seoulsnb@ gmail.com or check www.seoulsnb.blogspot.com Sinchon Toastmasters Club: Looking for new members, both Korean & foreign, wanting to improve their public speaking and leadership skills in an atmosphere where members can also have fun interacting together. Please contact Dong Wan at: intervie@naver.com Suwon Scuba Club: A dive club close to Osan Air Base and Camp Humphreys, we teach all Padi courses and run regular tours for fun dives to the East Sea. Along with dives, the club has

a major social element with outstanding BBQ's and parties on each tour. Please contact Nic at: nichofberg@yahoo.com, 010 3123 2061 or www. suwonscuba.com

international clubs Investor & Real Estate Club Meetings Every Monday @ Watts On Tap. Discussions on international dating, relationships, investments. Discuss investments with ROI higher than KOSPI average. Anyone with valuable or critical comments wins cash & prizes! Contact 010-5552-5568 Royal Asiatic Society (RAS) – This non-profit organization offers lectures about Korea’s history and culture, while also offering tours to various locations around the countr y. Please contact raskb@kornet.net or visit www.raskb.com The American Women's Club (AWC) now meets at the Sofitel Ambassador Hotel at 9:30 AM on the first Tuesday of each month. www.awckorea.org. T he Aus tralia & New Zealand A ssoc ation (A N ZA) me et s at t he G rand H yat t Hotel at 9:30AM on the third Tues of the month. For more information, please visit www.anzakorea.com or events@anzakorea.com The British Association of Seoul (BASS) meets at the Seoul Club from 10 AM to Noon on the fourth Tues of the month. For more information, please contact basseoul@yahoo.co.uk The Canadian Women’s Club (CWC) meets the second Tues of the month & also participate in a group activity the fourth Wed of the month. For more information, contact sujaybee@yahoo.com Club Italia hosts a lunch every Sun at 1 PM at the Franciscan School in Hannam-dong. The lunch

costs KRW 15,000 and everyone is welcome. For more information, please visit www.clubitalia.or.kr

central Seoul. E-mail Tom for further details @ amnestyseoul@gmail.com.

Career Women in Korea (CWIK) at the New Seoul Hotel on the third Wed evening of the month. For more information, please visit www. cwik21.com or contact career_women_in_korea@ yahoo.com.

All Native English Speakers, Kyopos, and Koreans. Proficient in English are welcome to join our weekly bible study/fellowship meetup held every saturday at 3 pm. We seek to delve deeply into scripture. Contact Info. 011-359-1317

The Seoul International Women’s Association (SIWA) meets at the Sofitel Ambassador Hotel at 9:30 AM on the third Wed of the month. For more information, please visit www.siwapage.com

Bellydance lessons in English in Itaewon at the Well Being Studio by Eshe on Tuesdays and Saturdays. Absolute beginners welcome. Awaken your body and spirit with this ancient healing art. Details at w w w.eshebellydancer.com or email eshebellydancer@hotmail.com

Overseas Chinese Women’s Club (OCWC) meets monthly and is open to all women who would like to make new friends, enjoy good food and learn about Chinese culture. Chinese is spoken, but interpretation is available. For more information, please visit our website at ocwckr.spaces.live.com or contact ocwckr@hotmail.com

Announcements The Ang Dating Daan Korea Chapter conducts free Bible Study and distributes DVDs of Bible Expositions of the only sensible preacher in our time — Brother Eli Soriano. If you want free copies of Bible Expositions and hear free Bible Study, please call 010-5737-2561 / 010-3004-0817 Amnesty G48 is an official group of Amnesty International Korea. This group is made up of both Korean and foreign volunteers who actively t a ke p ar t in t he m ovem ent to p rom ote an d protect human rights for all people around the world. The group's main activities include writing appeal let ters, sending online urgent ac tion mails, organizing street campaigns, human rights education and holding regular meetings on the first Saturday of every month from 4 - 6pm in

Looking to start a La Leche League in Seoul. Anyone interested in joining thisgroup or with p rev io us ex p er ien c e in l ea d in g on e, p l ea s e email:sondancer23@yahoo.com Sunday Salsa Class @ You Can Dance! Studio in Itaewon / Beginner I - 1~2:30PM / Beginner II 2:30~4PM. Go to www.youcandancekorea.com or call 749-3262 Bible Study Enthusiasts - Weekly Bible study for Native English Speakers. We are having a weekly Bible Study every Saturday, at 7:30 PM. Everyone is welcome! Call me at 011-359-1317 or email homechurch-314@meetup.com or homechurch. meetup.com/314/ for further information. Democrats Abroad in the ROK - Different ways to get involved. Official membership open to US Citizens. Social events open to all nationalities. contact demsabroadseoul@gmail.com Seoul Global Center - Seoul Help Center for foreigners has been renamed and relocated to the Korea Press Foundation Building floor.

info@groovekorea.com

The Original Seoul Toastmasters Club - Are you interested in joining a club of professionals working to develop communication and leadership skills? Meet new friends, both Korean and foreign, at the original Seoul Toastmasters Club. Please contact Joohun Park at jhpamc@hanmail.net and 011 9279 8299 or visit www.seoultmclub.net Seoul PMS H3 – This is a running club for women that is also part of the Hash House Harriers. We meet one Saturday afternoon a month and are looking for other women who like to run, walk, drink and/or socialize. Contact msthanx4nothin@gmail. com or visit www.myspace.com/seoul_pms_h3 Karaoke Club - Join a karaoke club in Seoul with people who love to sing, whether you sound like Frank Sinatra or Frankenstein! We meet once a month. Please contact seoulsing@gmail.com A r e y o u a v e ge t a r i a n o r v e g a n i n Ko r e a? The Seoul Veggie Club meets twice a month to check out veggie-friendly restaurants and enjoy picnics. Koreans, foreigners, vegetarians and non-vegetarians are all welcome. "Facebook group Seoul veggie club" MEETinSEOUL – Come hang out with a large free, all-volunteer social group. There are no membership fees, just pay for your own cost of the events (movies, dinners etc). www.meetin.org/city/ MEETinSEOUL/ Conser vatives Abroad – For suppor ts of the British Conservative Party, and others who are interested. We will host social events, fundraisers and possibly public speakers from London. For more information, please visit groups.yahoo.com/ group/Conservativesabroadkorea/ orcontact Ian at koreanianr@yahoo.co.uk or 016-897-6282 Yongsan Kimchi Hash House Harriers - If you enjoy running, walking and trekking throughout Seoul as well as drinking beer, then come join us every Saturday at 10 a.m. For more information, please visit www.freewebs.com/ykhhh (then go to "hareline") or malgosia02@yahoo.com Hiking Club – The International Hikers Club meets every Sat. For more information, please contact sihclub@gmail.com Mostly Over 40 – This club meets for lunch on Sunday a month and, as the name depicts, consists of people who are mostly over 4 0. For more information, contact mostlyover40@yahoogroups. com CWG, ‘Conversations with God,’ discussion and study group is open for anyone who is interested in talking about the themes and implications of this book. Contact markyansen@yahoo.com or 011 9990 4291 Artists – We are interested in starting an artists’ collective in Seoul. Are you a visual artist interested

konglish of the month

Aries

Taurus

Change is on the horizon, dear A ries, and a sp ir i t ual revel at ion or at t it ude break t hrough occurs in May that propels you along a new path this spring and summer. Adventure, travel, and higher learning call to you. You are setting your sights on the future instead of worrying about the past, and setting your sights high! There may be unexpected events that free you from confining situations. Financial concerns and mix-ups lift by mid-month, when a new budget will be helpful. You are ready to pursue romance and to take the lead.

Mid-month forward is a feel-good time for you, dear Taurus, when you feel the need to make a fresh start. Communication problems can be a bit troublesome until then, however, particularly when it comes to money and love. Love ties are coming up for review, and the need to put the past behind you becomes insistent. Some of you will be determining whether a romantic relationship is strong enough to be brought forward. A surprising new friendship could develop this month. Home life is animated, busy, and involving.

Gemini

Cancer

You are especially magnetic this month, dear Gemini, particularly in the second half of May. Love and appreciation are easy to attract this month. Your desire to learn, share ideas, and improve your skills is powerful. Strong energy for new beginnings in close relationships is with you in the last week of the month. It’s also a time when exciting professional and travel opportunities could arise, seemingly out of the blue. Stimulating changes in the realms of friendships, group connections, and business plans are on the horizon.

Motivation to make money is strong this month, dear Cancer. You are also enjoying lively f r iendships and g roup activities. The work you do could find financial support in May, or your work may be related to supporting others’ talents and resources. Many of you will achieve more recognition, a promotion, or a position of increased responsibility on the career front this spring and summer, and unusual developments in May seem to be pushing you in that direction. Work is stimulating and a little hectic in the last week of the month.

Leo

Virgo

Career and professional interests are strong this month, dear Leo. Mixups or delays lift by midmonth, and you are back on track. New ideas are abundant, and your energy levels run high. Some form of tug of war when it comes to finances could be irksome in May, but clearing up financial matters will do wonders for your outlook. Friendships are especially rewarding this month, and new feel-good connections can be made. Some of you will be meeting new romantic interests or experiencing a rejuvenation of romance in existing relationships.

Business relationships are strong this month, dear Virgo. You have that extra “edge” when it comes to appealing to superiors as well as co-workers. A change of residence, a working partnership, an opportunity to work from home, or an alliance with an old family friend or co-worker could be in the offing. Reticence about changes in a close personal relationship is something you have been struggling with for some time, and now is a good time to examine what is holding you back. New travel or educational plans are likely mid-month.

Mar 21 - Apr 20

May 21 - June 21

July 23 - Aug 22

runner-up:

winner:

The winner will receive a food or entertainment voucher worth 50,000 won

info@groovekorea.com

Crossword

58 Nautical direction 59 Croon 60 Mythical giant 61 Tidings 62 Auto maker Ferrari 63 Opposite camp

Across 1 Brindled cat 6 Largest Caribbean island 10 Throw 14 Sky blue 15 Unwarrantied 16 Commedia dell’__ 17 Craze 18 Gladiator armed with net and trident 20 Approved 22 Like certain teenage turtles 23 Bravura 24 Decency 25 Act impatiently 27 Polite

28 Aim 30 Clothes line? 34 Nabokov novel 35 Nod 38 Top of a clock dial 39 Theater box 41 Dots and dashes 43 Messy dressers 46 Aircraft 47 Homesteaders 50 Superman star 51 Gas rating 52 Intimate attire 55 Subject for St. Thomas Aquinas 57 “There is Nothin’ Like __”

Down 1 Subdued 2 Muezzin’s call to prayer 3 German assembly 4 French roll 5 Young animal 6 Insertion symbol 7 Preowned 8 Byte part 9 Renowned sci-fi author 10 Price-fixing groups 11 Opera highlights 12 Publicity seeker’s act 13 Irritable 19 German car 21 __ Domingo 24 Underground worker 25 100 dinars 26 Loosen 27 Pacific salmon 29 Parts of a meter 31 Clear 32 Helper 33 Architect __ van der Rohe 36 Colorado ski resort 37 Assign authority 40 Properties 42 Collapsed 44 Swedish actress Olin 45 Ultimatum ender 47 “__ is an island” 48 Nice school? 49 Scatter about 50 Starr of the Beatles 52 Austrian city on the Danube 53 Muslim priest 54 Counting-out starter 56 Transgression

Sudoku The aim of the puzzle is to insert numbers in the boxes to satisfy only one condition: each row, column and 3x3 box must contain one of each digit from 1-9. Theres is a unique solution, which can be found by logical thinking.

Apr 21 - May20

June 22 - July 22

Aug 23 - Sept 22

Libra

Scorpio

May is a sociable month for you, dear Libra, especially from the 21st forward. You are making exciting new contacts and re c on n e c t i n g w i t h o l d friends. You are keen on sharing your personal philosophies with others and are especially intrigued with other points of view. Restlessness with routine is sure to get you out and about. Financial matters begin to clear up midmonth. Some nagging health or work problems need at tention, especially those revolving around poor communication. Conditions in your close partnerships may begin to feel confining now, and demand a major overhaul.

May is an excellent month for giving your close personal relationships the attention they deserve, dear Scorpio. By mid-month, tensions and communication troubles clear up. A partner is more willing to share himself/herself on deeper, intimate levels. May 13th brings a rush of positive energ y to a par tnership. It’s a great time for making new resolutions. Finances bring pleasant surprises this month and next, but money could be spent as quickly as they are earned if you are not careful! Your hobbies or sideline work can be especially lucrative this month.

Sagitarius

Capricorn

May is strong for social l ife, n e got iat ions , an d c om m un i c at i on s , d e a r S a g i t t a r i u s . H o w e v e r, before mid-month, some conversations can be strained and non-productive, particularly with a partner and on the job. It’s best to leave important conversations for the second half of May. Some problems balancing career and family obligations are likely. Your spirit for adventure runs high, yet you are especially busy with work obligations and health routines. A new home or living arrangement might be in the offing. The 26-28 brings a surprising personal revelation. It’s time to listen to your heart.

A mostly entertaining month is in store for you, dear Capricorn. While some communication snafus can get your goat, especially with a romantic partner, your creative flow returns mid-month. The chance for creative and romantic new beginnings arrives just in time to revitalize your outlook. The urge to work is weaker than usual, so if you can manage it, down time or a vacation might be in order. Finances are strong, particularly those related to the communications industr y and online endeavors. You are especially intuitive when it comes to financial prospects.

Jan 20 - Feb 18

Fe 19 - Mar 20

Sept 23 - Oct 22

Nov 22 - Dec 21

Oct 23 - Nov 21

Dec 22 - Jan 19

Aquarius

Pisces

Impor t ant group con nections and friendships come along suddenly this month and nex t, dear Aquarius. Conversations with friends and acquaintances can be eye-opening, propelling you along a new path of discovery in the coming months. Financial concerns and possibly even battles may challenge you this month. Straightening out domestic problems will also be necessary, and this sets the stage for pleasant relations with family and a more organized home life in the second half of the month. Energy runs high for romance, entertainment, and recreation in May. A partnership is animated and spirited.

Career opportunities are likely to arise this month and next, dear Pisces, qui te p os sib l y of t he behind-the-scenes variety, or involving online endeavors. Energy for improving your skills and getting projects going runs extremely high this month, so take advantage. While pushing yourself too hard will never work to your benefit in the long run, taking some extra time to tend to projects that have been on hold will be fulfilling. Troublesome or mixed up communications are likely to clear up by mid-month. Love opportunities increase dramatically from the 19th forward.

honGdae directorY

itaewon directorY Kabinett Chiropractic Clinic (1F) International Clinic (5F) Global Village Center (5F) La Bocca Villa Sortino

Bungalow Tropical Lounge 02-793-2344 This bar and restaurant sets the standards of unique excellence to higher levels - decked out with bamboo, sand, pools, swings, a fireplace and more.

Marakech Night Two Broz Rocky Mountain Tavern Sortino’s

Ole Stompers Rock Spot

Chiropractic Sports Med Clinic 02-798-1446 American and Australian trained, doctors are fluent in English, Spanish & Korean.

Old Town

copacabana 02-796-1660 Come to COPACABANA where a mere W29,000 gets you all-you-can-eat of the best Brazilian barbeque and buffet in Korea.

Silom Petra Los Amigos

Helios

Don Valley Korean Restaurant 02-796-2384 Conveniently located in the heart of Itaewon, this spacious restaurant accommodates 120 guests for delicious dinners and large parties. Open 24 hours everyday, it specializes in “Korean BBQ Done Right” - grilled beef ribs, bulgogi and bibimbap as well as many others.

Queen Fire Station What The Book

Spice Table Tiffany Nail La Cigale Hollywood/Spy Smokey Saloon

Bungalow

Roofers The Loft Pub Panchos

Jun Pharmacy

9 Timo

Don Valley

Unique Travel

Gecko’s Garden 7 Bonji

Seoul Pub/ Nashville

TMAS

Wolfhound

Jonny Dumpling

Outback

3 Alley Pub/ Sam Ryan’s You Can Dance

La Plancha

Bar Bliss Reggae Pub

Photo by Ronny Kick

Post Office

Queen Queen welcomes ALL people for who they are and creates an open environment where different people from various backgrounds can cross barriers and unite as one community while having the time of their lives in the ultimate party kingdom! Rocky Mountain Tavern 010-5775-2327 With a Canadian feel throughout, RMT attracts a crowd for sports coverage, trivia, wings, weekend brunch & live music. Solutions 02-795-0827 The friendly English-speaking staff offers PC sales & repair as well as mailboxes and safety deposit boxes.

McDonald’s

Bu ddh a’s Be Ist lly anb u l Vid eo Ta Store co Ta co

Tinpan 2 Ting Tings Joker Red Cargo Tinpan 1 Myungwolgwan Gogo’s/FF Ska2 Agio Sub-zero VIA

of the month Zibe

Buy The Way

M2 Yonsei Miplus Dental Clinic

Brix

Addiction Castle Praha

groove korea

Photo courtesy of VIA

Pita Time 02-790-8891 Providing fresh healthy food, Pita Time offers the choice of pitas, pita pizzas, salads and more. Delivery service.

korea

All-American Diner The Pizza Peel

FREE

STEAK! ON WED.

WITH THIS AD

TMAS 02-796-7976 Total Martial Arts System. Designed for FOREIGNERS and lessons in English. learn true martial arts, training and spending time together like a family. Unique Travel 02-792-0606 A travel agency in the heart of Itaewon where English, Japanese and Korean are spoken.

Aussie Shop Gorgeous Macho’s Kitchen

Gr8 Hookah/ Ska

Panchos 02-792-4746 A Mexican bar with darts, pool, television and a wide selection of music. A spacious setting with big windows overlooking Itaewon’s main street.

groove Marakech Night 2 Solutions Bistro Corner

NB2

NB1

LA CIGALE MONTMARTRE 02-796-1244 Contemporary French cuisine in cozy and intimate surroundings.with a classy yet casual feel, it has a variety of food which includes a range of mussels. Its terrace brings an outdoor feel yet warm & dry comfort to accommodate the weather.

LOCO LOCA 02-796-1606 Enjoy Salsa music and dancing in the vibrant atmosphere. Freshly baked pizzas with Latino flavors and the very best South American wines will be served.

Harlem

360@ The Liquid

McDonald’s 02-790-6413 Open 24 hours with breakfast served from 5 – 11 AM

Pub Scrooge

Urban

club daY last fridaY

GORGEOUS MACHO’S KITCHEN 02-6403-7781 Homemade American-style diner. All-day brunch, sandwich, and salads. A perfect spot for private parties. A reservation is required.

MARAKECH NIGHT (3 LOCATIONS) 02-795-9441 Moroccan & Arabic restaurant offering authentic dishes, atmosphere and music. Wine, beer, juices and yogurt drinks are also available. Enjoy flavored tobacco from traditional shisha pipe.

Copacabana Loca Loca/ Bar 22 (2F)

Starbucks

LA PLANCHA 02-790-0063 Spanish grill restaurant includes combination platters along with al la carte side dishes. Feast inside in the warm and cozy atmosphere or sit out on the plant covered terrace.

Gecko’s Terrace B1

Nomad’s Pool

JONNY DUMPLING 02-790-8830 Enjoy different styles of healthy, handmade dumplings made fresh everyday. Meat as well as vegetarian dumplings are available.

Evan Tattoo

Unit@Bluespirit

El Plato

Cafe / Bar Club Restaurant Clinic

Berlin Club Volume

Wolfhound Irish Pub 02-749-7971 This two storey Irish pub has a wide variety of imported beers, exceptional food and a great atmosphere. Guinness and Kilkenny on tap. 3 Alley Pub 02-749-3336 Friendly place with quality service. Trivia Night every Thurs.

pic of the

month Winner: Neil Alexander The sun is a mass of incandescent gas, a gigantic nuclear furnace. Every second 700 million tons of hydrogen are converted into helium ashes. In the process 5 million tons of pure energy is released. In layman’s terms, it’s a star. But it’s not just a star, it’s OUR star. It feeds the plants and it feeds us. Without it we would not be here. In 5 billion years or so it will no longer be here, and nether will we. A reflection of the sun in a small pond of water and Lily-pads taken at Seonyudo Park on April 13, 2010.

runners-up

Jose Velasquez

Anthony Dell

june’s CHALLENGE:

Spring Portrait After what seemed to be an especially cold and extended winter, the blossoms have finally arrived. It’s a fine opportunity to take advantage of the seasonal beauty. This month’s theme is “Spring Portrait.” Get out there and put someone in front of that camera in a suitably spring environment. The deadline is May 15th.

Groove SPC Challenge Greetings. My name is Aaron and as leader of the Seoul Photo Club, I’m happy to tell you that we have a new Groove SPC monthly photo challenge for the coming year. But first, what is the Seoul Photo Club? The SPC is an online community of expats in Korea who are interested in learning about and discussing the art of photography. ‘Seoul Photo Club’ is really a bit of a misnomer though, as

membership is open to anyone who lives anywhere in Korea. Indeed, we have members from one end of the country to the other – from Paju to Jeju and Sokcho to Incheon. We have teamed up with Groove Korea to organize the magazine’s monthly competition. How does it work? Each month the competition is announced in Groove Korea and at the SPC, and each month the competition will have a different theme. Upcoming

themes might include such things as ‘Repetition,’ ‘Red’ or ‘After Dark.’ Just submit your interpretation of the theme at the SPC or via email to have a shot at having your pic published here in Groove Korea and winning the monthly prize.

entries will be displayed online at the SPC for the duration of the competition.

Further requirements: You must provide your name and contact details plus a 50 – 150 word description telling us the what/where/when of the photo. How do I enter? Entries must be at least 2000 pixels There are two ways. Just join the on the longest side and 300dpi to meet Seoul Photo Club on Flickr – www.flickr. printing requirements. com/groups/seoulphotoclub - and add For further info, visit the your pic to the competition, or email your entry to raisey@hanmail.net. All Seoul Photo Club on Flickr

tHe last lauGH BY Brian AYlward “Hey Brian, what is it like over there in Korea?” asked a friend of mine from Canada, in a recent Skype conversation.

“It’s cool man,”

I responded, offering no insight to the lifestyle here in the Land of the Morning Calm.

WAEGUK WORLD (Part 2)

How do you explain the Han River hustle that exists throughout the peninsula? A place where your self-worth can be determined by the size of your eyes and the quality of your cell phone. A place more competitive than an ant colony. A place where a skin creamed segment of the population bleach their complexions, giving themselves a sexy ghost-like appeal. (With exaggerated headgear, umbrellas and huge sunglasses that look more like tinted car windows, many Koreans hide from the sun like it is an abusive stepfather.) Maybe it is better that people back home believe that there are panda bears in the trees and people kung fu fighting in the streets. Like thousands of other foreigners living in Korea, I am employed in the parasitic profession of ESL teaching. Essentially we are Word Dealers, not teachers. We sell English words for Korean won. All across the country, studious slaves are herded into hagwon (private academies) for their daily dose of English. They have names like Sam, Sarah, Harry and Lisa. Of course these are not their real names, but rather the language slave names they are given on the first day of English immersion. These cramped classrooms often become a playground for a physically assaulting phenomenon, known as the dreaded “dong chim.” Dong chim roughly translates into “poop needle” in English. A dong chim is when a finger-friendly kid clasps his or her hands together, with index fingers pointing out, as they attempt to insert them into another person’s anal area. Even the teacher’s asshole is not off limits from an anal invasion. It has been explained to me as “just a game” by Korean adults. A game! Hopscotch is an age appropriate game for children, or Rockpaper-scissors. Korean kids love Rock-paper-scissors. However, a finger in my asshole, that is a game for 21(years of age) and up. Outside the classroom, exists another phenomenon, called “yellow fever.” Yellow fever is when non-Asian ethnic men have a particular sexual preference for Asian women. Symptoms of yellow fever include habitual high-fiving, speaking in incomplete sentences and getting actual enjoyment from holding hands. Many foreign men admit to having an Asian fetish. I find it fascinating. In Korea, it is normal to see an unattractive foreign man dating a beautiful Korean woman. I guess many things are lost in translation, including eyesight. (Note: Most mixedrace babies are beautiful. Too bad their grandparents hate them.) Korean women are amazing. In particular, the incredible ajuma. With their floral print blouses and perfect perms, these wonderful women are the glue that keeps Korea together. When I am dragging my privileged white ass to work and I see these middle-aged marvels working in the streets, I am humbled by their hard work. They are tender, like a kiss on the check, and tougher than leather. In

the event of a nuclear war, only cockroaches and ajuma would remain. Frankly, I have a love-hate relationship with this kimchi crazed country. For instance, I love the food, black market shopping and living the “life of Riley” I have here in Korea. However, I hate feeling like a rat in Seoul’s metropolitan maze and I do not like the social anxiety I get when Koreans point at me in public, like I am their favorite zoo animal. All things considered, my favorite thing about Korea is Thailand.

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94 | GROOVE KOREA | may 2010

any questions or comments, please email: info@groovekorea.com