Issue 2 Budget Travel Spring 2018 Barcelona Cologne Costa Rica Havana Japan Mexico Mumbai
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Letter from the Editor
This issue is dedicated to Adriana Rovers - for her unconditional support and constant dedication to the international community at Cornell, her energy and passion will forever be treasured. Internationalism and diversity has been ingrained into Cornell’s identity since the very beginning. Just 4 years after the establishment of Cornell in 1865, the first group of international students stepped onto campus. Since then, thousands of students from almost every country have stepped foot on this beautiful campus, sharing our unique identities with our fellow students. The first international club, the Cornell Cosmopolitan Club, was established on November 14, 1904. Without possessing the technology we have today, the Cosmopolitan Club presented an opportunity for students and professors to illuminate others about the world. The Club’s motto, “Above all nations is humanity”, is one that is still felt 100 years later. This motto is what Guac Magazine aspires to foster and achieve. We want to continue Cornell’s rich tradition of engaging in intercultural dialogue and fostering international cooperation. It is only through communication would we be able to acknowledge and understand intersecting cultures and truly become a global citizen. Building upon the positive reaction from our first issue, I am proud to present the second issue, Budget Travel. With the specific goal of helping Cornellians travel the world in mind, this issue wants to show readers how traveling is accessible to all. Through sharing their personal stories, each writer takes you on a unique journey that is not only rich in culture but also full of budgeting tips. From staying in affordable hostels in Naoshima, Japan to visiting the Christmas market in Cologne, Germany, this issue covers experiences from all corners of the world. I hope after reading this issue, it will show you that traveling and embracing other cultures is something that can be accessible to everyone. Go out and explore the world!
Zeyu Hu Editor-in-Chief
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Table of Contents
Letter from the Editor
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Two Paradises for Foodies and Cultural Enthusiasts
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Veracruz and Puebla, Mexico
A Roam in Peace
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Two Broke Girls and a Six Day Rail Pass
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Half of My Heart
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MĂŠs que una ciutat. More than a city.
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The City of Dreams
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A City of Twinkling Lights and Snowy Nights
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The Team
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Special Thanks
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Costa Rica
Japan: Naoshima, Okayama, Osaka, Nara, Kyoto, Kanagawa
Havana, Cuba
Barcelona, Spain
Mumbai, India
Cologne, Germany
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Veracruz & Puebla Two Paradises for Foodies and Cultural Enthusiasts by Jose Covarrubias
I always tell my friends that Mexico is a great destination for all types of travelers. Whether you’re looking to party, relax, explore, or go on adventures, Mexico has a perfect place for you. Most college students in the US are familiar with crazy spring break stories from Cancun or Cabo, but I want to tell a story about a slightly less known side of Mexico that I experienced with family. The trip started in the city of Veracruz, the second oldest European established settlement in continental America. Its name comes from the Latin words for “True Cross,” in reference to its discovery by Hernan Cortes on the historical day of Crucifixion during Holy Week. Veracruz is famous for its unique cuisine, with rich Spanish and Afro-Caribbean influences. In fact, the variety of traditional dishes from Veracruz is so large that even as locals, we did not have the chance to try all of them during
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my stay. One great piece of advice for travelers going to Mexico is to enjoy authentic traditional food by going to local markets. Most of the delicacies in Veracruz can be found in taco stands in the street, or mom and pop antojitos (traditional breakfast food) stores. After enjoying some delicious picadas, tacos and pozole in Los Portales — the city’s iconic dining location — and enjoying live folk music in the historical center of the city, we headed to Fuerte de San Juan de Ulua, a 16th century fort built with coral that was used to defend the city from pirates and invaders. As the night approached, we went to Delitros, one of multiple bars in the city to enjoy regional drinks on a budget. Veracruz is known for its vibrant nightlife, with parties and nightclubs going until 5 AM. We didn’t want to miss out, so we went to one of the famous nightclubs in the city — Industrial.
Iron bridge in Soledad de Doblado, Veracruz
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San Juan de Ulua Fort in Veracruz
Although not exactly a budget option, Industrial ends up being easily affordable for international travelers due to the conversion rates. Fortunately we know how to party and how to recover, and we know there is nothing better than enjoying some traditional seafood dishes the morning after, so we went to the famous vuelve a la vida (come back to life) seafood cocktail. The state of Veracruz also offers some great opportunities for eco-tourism and extreme sports, with great destinations for day trips such as the beautiful emerald-colored beaches in Costa Esmeralda; the rapids in Jalcomulco, ideal for rafting levels II to IV; and the Pico de Orizaba, 6
the second highest volcanic peak in the world. After enjoying the beauties Veracruz has to offer, we decided to go on a 2-day trip to Puebla, a neighboring state within a 3 hour drive. The capital of Puebla (Puebla City) is larger than Veracruz, and offers great opportunities for tourists and nightlife. In the city of Puebla, we visited the Zocalo — the equivalent to Los Portales in Veracruz — and enjoyed some regional food with traditional music. The basilica in the city is a must-see; its architec ture is astonishing and interiors impressive. One can also visit some of the multiple museums in the city, such as the Amparo Museum — ideal for travelers
interested in learning more about pre-hispanic cultures and the Spanish empire in Mexico — or the Regional Mexican Revolution Museum, located in the house where the Mexican Revolution started. A hidden gem in Puebla for international travelers is Cholula, the oldest continuously inhabited settlement in the Americas. One of Mexico’s Pueblos Magicos (Magical Towns), Cholula is known as “the town of the 365 churches.” Even though there are actually only 159 churches, many of them are stunning, including one with an interior covered in gold, and one with a mixture of Catholic and indigenous influences. Just
like Veracruz, Puebla has a very unique cuisine, and we couldn’t miss out on enjoying many different types of mole (a chocolate and chili paste, usually served with tortillas) or the famous cemitas (sandwiches with a regional cheese and cured meats). Sadly, our trip ended there, as did the warm weather and authentic Mexican food, but I hope you get a chance to explore Mexico soon! Jose Covarrubias is from Veracruz, Mexico. His favorite city is Berlin because it offers a mix of modern and historical places, and has the energetic vibes of a city with the serenity of a smaller town. 7
Santa Maria Tonantzintla Church in Cholula, Puebla
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Brick and coral details from a wall in San Juan de Ulua fort
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Guac’s Guide to Mexico on a Budget To Do
San Juan de Ulua Fort
El Tajin
This is a 16th century fort built with coral that was used to defend the city of Veracruz from pirates and invaders. It’s a great location for pictures and for some history lessons about the country.
El Tajin is a pre-hispanic archeological zone and a World Heritage Site where one can find pyramids in excellent preservation status and a show of locals performing a ceremonial dance called Danza de los Voladores, which translates to “dance of the flyers”, that requires the dancers to suspend themselves with ropes from a 20m high pole while slowly descending in circles. It is located in Papantla, the land where vanilla comes from.
Address: Islote de San Juan de Ulúa, Ver., Mexico Opening Hours: Tuesday-Sunday from 9am to 5pm
Opening Hours: 8:10am - 5:00pm Price: $40
To Eat
Antojitos Anita This is the favorite place for local families to go enjoy some antojitos (traditional brunch food) over the weekend. Address: Blvd. Adolfo Ruiz Cortines 2952, Costa de Oro, 94299 Boca del Río, Ver., Mexico Opening Hours: Opens everyday at 7am, closes at 3pm Saturday-Sunday and 6pm Monday-Friday Price: One can have a full breakfast meal for $5-10. In some smaller antojitos places it is possible to eat for under $5
Mariscos Villa Rica Mocambo In Mexico lunch is usually the biggest meal, followed by breakfast and then dinner. Locals go to Villa Rica for some traditional seafood lunches. Address: Calle Mocambo 527, Playa de Oro, 94290 Boca del Río, Ver., Mexico Opening Hours: Opens everyday at 11am closes 10pm Sunday to Tuesday and midnight Wednesday to Saturday Price: Approximately $10-15 per person
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Costa Rica A Roam in Peace by Marshall Guan
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According to Zhuangzi, an influential Taoist philosopher, a perfect country is where the superiors were wise as the higher branches of a tree and the people were free as the deer of the wild. That Taoist ideal describes a state which is governed in a way as efficient as how nature is organized. As a young adult who is experiencing rapid changes in everyday life, I was profoundly intrigued by the peaceful feeling of Costa Rica, a Central American wonderland. 13
That Taoist ideal describes a state which is governed in a way as efficient as how nature is organized. The Sites San Jose ($0) is the capital of Costa Rica. It is a city that speaks Caribbean traditionalism, modernism and naturalism at the same time. Landmarks, including the National Theatre of Costa Rica, Central Avenue and the Churches, are memories of when Costa Rica was first established in the 1820s. Complemented by buses, a railroad spans across the city, channeling its three-hundred and sixty thousand residents to their work, friends and faith. All newer buildings, both public and residential, are designed in a modest style to endure both raindrop and time.
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San Jose is without a doubt the greenest city I have ever lived in. The city’s amiability with nature is proven by some special residents, los perezosos (tree sloths). A family of these lazy animals lives in the University of Costa Rica, sharing our classes by peering from trees five feet away from the classroom’s window. San Jose combines all those delicacies that could only be achieved by people who appreciate nature. A rainforest climate dominates the city, but its altitude (over thirty-eight hundred feet) saves it from high temperatures. It constantly stays around seventy 70 degrees, gets cloudy in the morning, then rains heavily every afternoon. When the clouds would shy away, San Jose would present the best sunsets I have ever witnessed. The sky was like a palette that painted all the jubilance into the city’s residents, soothing and astonishing. Irazu Volcano ($10 transportation + $5 park admission) is two 2 hours away from San Jose. With an altitude over eleven thousand feet, Irazu is the highest volcano in Costa Rica. A bus would bring visitors from the city at
morning and return at noon. The convenience makes this active volcano a perfect place for a day trip. When I first got there, Irazu was shrouded by thick mist, making any objects twenty yards away invisible. To me it was just a plane covered by grey ashes. I touched the ground and suddenly felt a warmth I had never experienced before: the volcano was showing off its energy. When the sun came out, I was astonished again. I was exactly on the edge of Irazu’s crater! Those were the most magnificent sinking structures I had ever witnessed and caused me such a thrill as I started to recall its recent eruption in December 2016. I realized that the nature in Costa Rica was never only about delicacy. It entails an infinite yet constant power that resonates with the passion in the Costa Rican culture. Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio ($16 park admission + $20 tour guide) is a national reserve by the coast. Buses (around $20) between San Jose and the park are available every day. The summer breeze and the beach view overwhelmed me when I arrived. The beach was hazel instead of gold, and the sands were as soft as the new snow. Visitors could enjoy Parasailing ($50 per person), fresh coconuts ($5) and photos with wild monkeys ($0) on the beach. By dusk, when the tide comes, surfers will travel through waves and currents,
giving a luxurious but free performance for everyone around. Hotels and resorts ($30 per night) are all recommended for their comfortable rooms, delicious food, and travel advice. The main attraction at Manuel Antonio is the wildlife reserve, where we observed monkeys, coral snakes, sloths, lizards and a raccoon who tried to steal my umbrella. Tour guides could easily be found at the entrance of the park. They are equipped with professional telescopes and knowledge, and are able to identify animals by their camouflage. They speak perfect English and could provide detailed introduction to the park, biology, and Costa Rica. During our one hour tour in the forest, our guide made countless sudden stops and stared into the woods. While we were standing with confusion, he had already set up the telescope and called us to see frog eggs and insects under leaves, or sleeping sloths in the trees. Eventually we changed to swim at a beach in the end of Manuel Antonio, which, according to our guide’s and our own observation, might be the most beautiful beach in Costa Rica.
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Above: The crater of Irazu Volcano is a major tourist attraction for its unique terrain and breathtaking sky view. Previous page: Since its latest eruption in 1965, the Irazu Volcano has remained dormant for five decades. Title page: When the rain stops at dusk in San Jose, the clouds and the sun will paint the city like paradise.
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The Food La Pataconería ($12) is a restaurant that cooks my favorite Costa Rican food, patacones. It is located ten minutes walking distance from the University of Costa Rica. It has a wide variety of meat and vegetables complemented by patacones, fried green plantains that hold delicious salsas. A visit to La Pataconeria after school was always very satisfying and eventually counted for both my lunch and dinner because of the size of the general plates they offered.
The Host Airbnb ($12 per night) is extremely convenient and economical, and our stay with our host Pedro was beyond satisfaction. Pedro owns a house which is ten minutes away from the University of Costa Rica, with half a dozen tenants plus rooms for Airbnb travelers. He appreciated details and decorated the house to be especially cozy. I observed numerous times how he nailed a rough blue wood craft into the wall or added cute cups to the dining table set. Though without professional training, Pedro was one of the best interior designers for his belief in a peaceful and natural lifestyle.
The Romeria
Top: Los Perezosos, the tree sloths, are iconic animals of Central America Middle: The camouflage would not help the lizard escape from our guide’s eyesights Bottom: Frogs will lay their eggs under leaves above small ponds.
The Romeria ($0) is a religious festival in Costa Rica that happens every August 2nd. During the festival people from all over Costa Rica walk to Cartago, a central city where the Basilica de Virgen de los Ángeles is located. When I went out for dinner the night before the Romeria, I saw people marching on the main street of San Jose, heading toward Cartago. Bands were playing in front of churches to encourage the crowd and volunteers were offering direction and first aid. The next morning, I made the first step of my Romeria, the beginning of a five-hour expedition from San Jose to Cartago. The walk was tiring because we had to climb up a mountain between the two cities. I just plugged my ears with music trying to skip the struggle. Again, along the way, even in an event with such significance, I observed no sense of zealousness from any person along the trail. All people were performing the same action to practice the same belief. Romeria was a tranquil expression of Costa Rican solidarity.
Marshall Guan is a sophomore from China. His favourite city is Barcelona because the city is a masterpiece of nature and culture. 17
Guac’s Guide to Costa Rica on a Budget To See
Volcan de Irazu One bus is available every day from downtown San Jose to Volcano Irazu. The two hour bus ride would allow you to enjoy aerial view of San Jose as it would take you on the mountains next to the city. The bus would bring you right next to the crater. Unfortunately, the lake in the crater was gone recently. But the trip would still be worthwhile to satisfy your curiosity for volcanic terrain. Price: $10 Bus ride + $15 Park admission Hours: 8:00am-9:30pm Address: San Pedro, Costa Rica
Romeria If you are in Costa Rica on Aug 2nd, then just grab some food and water and follow the crowd on the street. The crowd will stop at Cartago, a city five hours walk away from San Jose. The expedition is long but walking with different people together would definitely ease the tiredness. If you don’t want to walk back, just go to Cartago Bus Station, where transits going back to San Jose are available. Price: Free Date: Aug 2nd
To Stay
To Eat
Airbnb in San Jose
La Pataconería
Airbnb offers in San Jose are cozy and affordable. Hosts are usually friendly and helpful. During my stay, I was invited to the host’s friend’s birthday party and tasted Costa Rican food nicely offered by the host every week.
La Pataconería is a restaurant that serves traditional Costa Rican patacones with choices of salsa, chicken, pork, or steak. Don’t forget to try its deserts when you check out. Price: $8-10 per person Hours: 8:00am-9:30pm Address: San Pedro, Costa Rica
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Japan
Two Broke Girls and a Six Day Rail Pass by Ami Kurosaki
It was two days before our trip to Japan and we still had not decided where to go or stay. “Let’s plan this after spring break,” “let’s plan after finals,” “let’s plan once we get to your place in Tokyo,” my high school best friend and I kept saying… and finally we were left with no hotel reservations and nothing figured out except a 5-day Japan Rail Pass. The rail pass is a $200 all-you-can-ride ticket that can get you to any destination in Japan, only sold to foreign travellers. So, we could go anywhere: we just didn’t know where. “Ok. We’re both art or architecture majors. Let’s go to museums.” “Yeah, ok what’s that place with the pumpkin artist?” “Naoshima? That’ll be our first spot.” “Ooh I wanna go see the deer.” “That’s Nara. While we’re there let’s visit Kyoto and Osaka. It’s close by.” “Cool. What about that place your mom suggested? The 21st Century museum or whatever.” “Kanazawa; that can be our last destination.” And that was how we decided our one-year-late graduation trip in five minutes. We found random hostels and guest houses on Booking.com, each under an average of 25 USD per night, and rushed to the train station to reserve the shinkansen to Okayama, which would get us from my family’s house in Tokyo to Okayama, a prefecture in the west. My friend and I met up in New York City, and she had come to visit me in Japan for a week before going back to Hong Kong, which was where we had both grown up. It was her first time in Japan, so she was pretty excited. It was exciting for me too, being a traveller in my own home country that I had not lived in for 14 years. And besides, Japan is the perfect place for a budget traveller: cheap food, cheap hotels, relatively safe. Really the only thing expensive is transportation, but we got that covered.
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Day 1: Travel Our trip started with a rice ball from the convenience store, and thus our budget Japan trip began. We got on the shinkansen early in the morning, hoping to get to Okayama by 12pm in order to get on the local train to Uno, the port city by Japan’s inland sea, so we could finally get on the ferry to Naoshima. When we finally made it to Naoshima, the ‘art island’ that drew many foreign tourists to an otherwise abandoned island, it was already 6pm. We dragged our carry-on to a guest house in the woods, called “Bamboo village,” where we shared a room with six strangers. The place itself was nice; a converted family home dotted with Ikea furniture. There were no restaurants near the guest house, so we went to the other side of the island and had a dinner that cost 5 USD each: a cheese-eggplant gratin with no rice and a tiny, appetizer-sized paella.
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Day 2: Naoshima My friend and I woke up the next morning at 6am because of jetlag, which meant we were the first ones to the toast and coffee provided by the host. Next, we decided to walk to the museums on the other side of the island, although there were buses. It was a nice summer morning and we could get some good photos on the way. It took us an hour to get to our first spot: Chichu Museum designed by Tadao Ando. Naoshima is almost a pilgrimage site for architect and art lovers alike, and we were in awe at the beautiful spaces. We walked to Lee Ufan museum afterwards, and last to Benesse House museum, complaining that each took more than a 10 USD entry fee, but coming out satisfied from a museum experience unlike anything we’d had before.
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Day 3: Osaka
Day 4: Nara
As great as Naoshima was, our tight schedule forced us to leave with the evening ferry back to Uno. We took a midnight train back to Okayama, where we stayed at another guest house, which was one of the cheapest options. It started to rain as we dragged our luggage, and we arrived soaked. The guest house itself, called ‘torii kuguru’, was decent, and around 30 USD per person. We didn’t stay in Okayama, as it didn’t interest us much, so with the morning train we left for Osaka. Our main motive in Osaka was the Kaiyukan, one of the top rated aquariums in Japan. For lunch we had a Japanese fast-food gyudon (beef bowl). One can’t go to Osaka without going to Dotonbori, so we went to the major shopping district, got one of the cheapest but worst takoyaki (please, if you are getting takoyaki in Japan, just go to Gindako), and for dinner had okonomiyaki (Japanese pancake). Later we walked to our guest house called HIVE, which at around 25 USD per person, is a converted office tower with beds so closely spaced to each other we could hear the stranger next to us breathe as we slept. We also had to take the elevator to go to the shower.
In the morning we left for the train to Nara. Nara is small, known mainly for its temple with deer that roam the streets. Deer are considered sacred here, and were not killed off unlike in other places in Japan. Instead of going to the World Heritage temple, my animal-loving friend and I went to Nara Park to play with the deer and to climb Mount Wakakusa. Despite the twenty minute hike uphill, the view of Nara was worth it and we had the hill to ourselves.
Left: Entry gateway to Todaiji, Nara’s World Heritage temple which houses a giant Buddha statue Top: Deers populate the park around Todaiji Middle: The main Pacific Ocean exhibit in Kaiyukan, where two whale sharks swim about Bottom: One of the more quiet backstreets in Dotonbori, Osaka’s shopping district 25
Day 5: Kyoto
Day 6: Kanazawa
We left Nara after having one of the best udon we’ve had at Fukutoku (try curry udon in any restaurant while you are in Japan!). Kyoto was just a short train ride away, and after not being able to figure out the bus system, we had an hour walk to our guest house. This was our cheapest deal of the week, at just 15 USD per person, but was definitely the worst. When the host showed us the room, I was pleased to see that we had a private room and went to open the closet, only to find a strange man sleeping inside it. The host told us that was his “room.” The doors didn’t close either. The sheets smelled used and we later found out that I got bed bugs from that place. Since it was located in the middle of nowhere, we had teriyaki in a nearby izakaya (Japanese pub) that was a similar level of sketchiness.
The shinkansen to Kanazawa was a long trip. Our main goal was to visit the 21st century museum designed by SANAA. We went right at opening time, but there was no one else, and our suspicion was confirmed when the reception lady told us the museum was closed on Mondays. They still let us in the outside area of the museum, so we got a glimpse of all the interesting exhibits they had, for example Leandro Erlich’s pool. We sadly walked away, and found some high school art students sketching, and decided to join them, with nothing better to do.
We took a bus to Arashiyama the next day for the famous bamboo forest, but left quickly for the monkey park. We probably spent the most money that week feeding the monkeys bananas and nuts, and coming up with theories about which snack they preferred. Looking for something to eat, we found a place having a lunch plate sale and ended up eating surrounded by middle school student groups, also flocking for the cheap food. We stopped by Ryoanji as every tourist does when going to Kyoto, and then left for our last destination, Kanazawa.
A dry landscape inside Ryoanji, Kyoto’s Zen Temple
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We spent our last afternoon of our rail pass trip touring the Kanazawa castle park and kenrokuen. They recently rebuilt the castle park for the opening of the shinkansen that would connect Kanazawa to Tokyo. Our last hostel, called “Blue Hour,” was the most memorable of them all. It was new, design was minimal and nice, service was great, wifi was amazing, and overall was a great deal for just 20 USD. I would go there again just for the hostel. The next morning we took the new shinkansen back to Tokyo, and that concluded our budget trip. We spent just 200 USD, excluding the rail pass. But the rail pass saved us around 200 USD in total. That could buy around 100 monkeys worth of bananas!
Kanazawa’s 21st Century Museum designed by SANAA
It’s been half a year since our trip together, but my friend and I still joke around about the bed bugs that I caught in the sketchy Kyoto guest house, or the museum that was conveniently closed in Kanazawa, or the fact that we travelled to all these places in Japan and yet opted to go to aquariums/zoos instead of temples and shrines. Everyone travels to Japan with a different objective; some for food, some for art, some for religion‌ for us, we had absolutely no objective but to explore and navigate through this unknown land with our first instincts, and see where our rail pass takes us. So get on the train to anywhere, and discover your own Japan.
Business closes early in remote train stations
Ami Kurosaki is from Tokyo, Japan and Hong Kong. Her favorite city is Tokyo because of its endless things to do and eat.
Top: The afternoon sun on a local train Bottom: A conductor bows his head to the incoming train
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Guac’s Guide to Japan on a Budget To See
To Stay
Iwatayama Monkey Park
Kanazawa Blue Hour
Good views, nice monkeys, and places to eat nearby at the foot of the hill . It is a 30-minute hike to top of the mountain Price: ¥550 (5 USD)
Dorm bed style, but they have private bunks built into the wall. Very clean, friendly, good design, good wifi. Price: ¥2000 (20 USD)
Sumo Stable viewing
APA Hotel
A unique and intense experience where you sit in on a sumo practice session, just a few feet away from professional sumo wrestlers. You cannot make reservations by yourself and need a guide; ask for local help e.g. https://andbeyondtokyo.com Price: Around 3000 yen Hours: 8:00am-9:30am
These corporate hotels are located almost anywhere in Tokyo near subway stations. They can be very convenient, safe, clean and cheap, sometimes with onsens on top. You can choose from a single room, double room, etc. Price: average 60 USD
To Eat
To Go
Rice balls
JR Rail Pass
Try convenience rice balls, only 100 yen (under a dollar) each for breakfast. They’re available at 7-eleven, Lawson, Circle K, or any convenience store, but Lawson and 7-eleven have the best. Price: ¥108 (1 USD)
If you have a non-japanese passport, I recommend the JR Rail Pass, which you can buy overseas with a travel agent or in Japan in Tokyo or Shinagawa station. They are a little above 200 USD and can take you anywhere, on any bullet train (except the two fastest ones) if they are under JR (a railroad company).
Sushi zanmai Fair quality sushi at a reasonable price. You can find these in a lot of places in Tokyo. Much better than genki sushi or other sushi conveyor belt restaurants Price: around ¥1500 (14 USD)
Grill K Amazing salisbury steak (hambagu) in an intimate bar seating in a local neighborhood. Price: around ¥1300 (12 USD) Address: 4-45-15 Sengoku, Bunkyoku, Tokyo
Taxi... ...never take it. Unless it’s midnight and all other transportation methods are closed, they are the most expensive taxis you’ll ever encounter in your life.
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Havana
Half of My Heart by Sonya Xu
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A time capsule. A time capsule filled with 1960s American Chevys, cigars, and Hemingway. We, as Americans, romanticize Cuba as this mysterious place, far different from anything we can imagine in our daily lives. I did it too, but categorizing Havana into these staples is simply an injustice to its vibrant culture and heritage. And I knew this wouldn’t be a fair assumption of Cuba the second I landed in Santa Clara with my sister and a single backpack.
Guantanamera, guajira guantanamera Yo soy un hombre sincero De donde crece la palma The plane teemed with laughter, clapping, and enthusiastic singing until it was time to disembark. En este momento, conocĂ que esta es MI aventura.
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Our first city of exploration was Havana, three hours away from Santa Clara. We got in a taxi with two men, Juan and Ricky. I became friends with them as they cracked jokes in Spanish and broken English. I learned that English isn’t taught in schools; they had taught themselves over the years as they taxied around English speaking tourists like us. “Necesito cambiar dinero,” I told them. I need to exchange money. In plenty of international airports, foreign exchange stations are a couple of feet away from baggage claim; however, this proved to be a much harder feat in Cuba. In fact, it’s practically impossible to withdraw Cuban Pesos Convertibles (CUC) with American debit or credit cards. I needed to improvise. Juan brought us to a neighborhood in Santana where one of his “cousins” lived. Right then and there in the back of a taxi cab, I negotiated my first ever trade deal. In my head, I silently prayed that $300 would last us the next five days because I had no idea where else I would get money. The taxi was old, probably from the eighties, run down, but it wasn’t like the cars you see in pictures. It lacked air conditioning (it was almost a hundred degrees) but was filled instead with stories and dreams
of two pairs of strangers, which was more than I could have ever asked for. Once we arrived in Havana, we bid farewell to our new friends but soon made new ones with our casa particular (homestay) owner. In Havana, we didn’t have a plan. This was an anomaly for my sister and I who usually planned our trips down to the hour. So, we wandered. And we wandered to the capital which was a few minutes from our temporary home in Old Havana. It was an exact, paradoxical reflection of the American capital. Colorful cars lined the front, waiting to take tourists around. But unlike the perfectly manicured lawns, a block away from the Cuban capital was a building overgrown with vines. There was not enough funding to finish the building, a reality check that Cuba isn’t a perfectly wrapped gift box. We wandered on, past hand painted communist slogans along walls and buildings about Che Guevara and Fidel Castro. They served as reminders to the people of the hard fought revolution and their leaders. A revolution that was in the past, but definitely not forgotten and an integral part of Cuban people’s identities.
Top: A snapshot of the “ideal” car found in Cuba; in reality, these cars have been tailored to fit the image in toursits’ minds. Left: The capitol building in Havana parallels that found in Washington, D.C. 33
We stopped by a local convenience store for a break from the sweltering sun. We got some strange looks. Our cameras clearly implied we were tourists. There were only two types of soda. They weren’t even Coke or Pepsi, but simply one that resembles coke and another that tasted like Sprite. I was speechless as I thought about the single government owned company that controls the soda industry. At the same time, there was something beautiful about this simplicity of not having twenty options to choose from. We passed an art studio and wandered in. The bright colors reminded me of a Warhol print. A child was outside selling fruits and vegetables. Their colors paralleled those we had just seen in the studio. There was a line that extended outside one of the stalls on the side of the road. People were patiently standing, a basket in one hand and a paper fan in the other. Later on, I learned that on certain days of the week, citizens waited in line at stores with baskets for eggs. On other days, they took empty water jugs to get oil. Cuba, indeed, still uses ration coupons.
There was even a line outside of Coppelia, a state run ice cream parlor. Castro loved ice cream. In fact, he had his ambassador to Canada ship him 28 cartons of ice cream from America. Because of our budget constraint, we opted out on the ice cream for the day. We hopped on a bicycle taxi who took us to the National Hotel. Pictures of Chinese politicians, Winston Churchill, Frank Sinatra, Ava Gardner, and Jimmy Carter lined the wall, serving as black and white reminders that Cuba’s rich history was more than simply the Bay of Pigs or the Cuban Missile Crisis that we learn about in American history class. We ate our dinner on the patio along the shore and watched the sun sink into the waves in a warm embrace. Cuba was more than my grand adventure. It was a test of my Spanish speaking abilities and a way to challenge myself in an environment entirely out of my comfort zone. And Havana is more than rum, cigars, and baseball. It has a heart of its own, and it has half of mine. Para siempre, Havana tiene mi corazón.
Sonya Xu is from Dallas, Texas. Her favorite city is Lucerne, Switzerland or Amsterdam, Netherlands.
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Left: A snapshot of the “ideal” car found in Cuba; in reality, these cars have been tailored to fit the image in toursits’ minds. Top: A young boy sells garlic rings on a side street. Bottom: A man sells fresh plantains at his market; plantains are found in many traditional Cuban dishes.
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Guac’s Guide to Havana on a Budget To See
To Stay
National Museum of Fine Arts
Airbnbs or Casa Particulares
Experience the vibrancy of Havana first hand by walking around in Old Havana. Be sure to also visit The National Museum of Fine Arts and take a walk along El Malecon in Old Havana. Address: Calle Trocadero e/ Zuluetay Monserrate, Havana, Cuba Opening Hours: 9am-5pm Price: CUC$8
Casa de Carmen is a homey Casa Particular located in central Havana. Carmen is extremely welcoming and cooks you breakfast every morning. You can even see the capitol building from the balcony. Adrress: Crespo No 111 | entre Colon y Trocadero, Havana, Cuba Price: ~CUC$40 per night
To Eat
To Go
Dos Pelotas
Bicycle Taxi
Scrumptious Cuban food for great prices. Be sure to try their Ropa Vieja and of course along with a cold soda. Price: CUC$2-6 Address: Calle Colon #78 | Aguila y Crespo, Havana, Cuba
A budget friendly way of getting around if going somewhere far. Make sure to set the price and location beforehand. Otherwise, walking around is the best way to truly experience the quirks of Havana. Price: CUC$3-5
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Barcelona
Més que una ciutat. More than a city. by Akhil Mithal In the summer of last year, my friends and I went on a post-high school graduation trip to Barcelona. It was the ultimate budget holiday – 13 cash-strapped boys straight out of boarding school looking to make the most of what little they had to spend. It’s safe to say that all of us managed to do just that. We realized that what makes Barcelona unique is that there is truly something for everyone, as cliché as that might sound. When we weren’t in our big group, at a bar, or on the beach, we split up into smaller groups and wandered around the city, always finding something good to eat or new to see.
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Taken from Montjuic overlooking Barcelona, with the Sagrada Familia in the horizon.
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I was able to book a $27 ticket plus Avios (British Airways’ equivalent of miles) from London – where I was in boarding school - to Barcelona, and a $220 ticket onward to New York five days later. It’s definitely worth using websites like Kayak and seeing what miles you might be able to use if you have a certain type of credit card. Don’t be daunted if the first figure you see is way above what you thought it might – if you do a bit of digging and improvisation, you can often reduce this price by 20-30%. Our accommodation was also inexpensive and very comfortable. We were able to get a 5 bedroom Airbnb, with a kitchen, washing machine and two bathrooms, walking distance from the Sagrada Familia for only €30 per night per person. Make sure you do thorough research before confirming your apartment because the City of Barcelona is clamping down on companies posing to be individuals. The most rewarding way to get to the know the city is to spend the first few days of your stay walking whenever possible. The contrast of Barcelona’s hyper-urban postmodern grid system with its old Gothic Quarter housing more traditional European squares or “plaças,” makes it a lovely city in which to do this. Barcelona is famed for having a unique approach to urban planning – its designer intended to seamlessly intertwine the older parts of the city with newer ones. The result of this gives the city a unique feel, unparalleled in any city of a similar size. Having said this, you can find yourself walking a lot more than you have to because maps on phones ofOverview of Barcelona
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ten don’t represent how long distances can actually be. So, it’s definitely worth investing in an unlimited ride Metro pass, especially if you’re going to be there for 4 or 5 days. The pass also works on the bus system which is easy to track and relatively reliable. Taxis– Uber and Lyft are not permitted in the city are also quite inexpensive, especially if you can split the cost amongst a group. If you’re returning to your apartment in the early hours of the morning, they’re often the best bet in terms of getting home safely. My favorite part about Barcelona is that there is truly something for everyone in the city, and it’s a perfect place to go if you want to a combination of sightseeing, nightlife and seaside relaxation. If you’re a soccer fan, a trip to the famous Camp Nou is a must – and if you’re in the city between August and May, try and get tickets to see a match. Barcelona has a vibrant jazz scene - spend an evening at the Harlem Jazz Club in the Gothic Quarter featuring local musicians and open improv sessions. Close by, the Picasso Museum houses an unparalleled collection of the artist’s formative works, right in the center of one of the birthplaces of the Spanish Cubist movement. And wherever you look, you can see the influence of the futuristic visions of Antoni Gaudí on the city’s unique landscape. Nowhere is this more apparent than at la Sagrada Familia, Barcelona’s iconic landmark. Try to book in advance, but if you can’t get in, don’t worry, the outside is just as impressive.
Top: Dome of the Catalunya National Art Museum Bottom: Spiral staircase in Sagrada Familia
“My favorite part about Barcelona is that there is truly something for everyone in the city..”
Amongst this, of course, eating is all-important, especially if you’re thinking about budget. Famed for its elaborate gastronomic culture, Barcelona’s food scene can seem intimidating and sometimes overpriced. The key is to avoid the tourist traps, and when you find yourself in one, make sure you know what you’re getting yourself into. Not only will the food be more expensive, but it will also often be of worse quality. Although tapas is probably the first thing that comes to mind when thinking about Spanish food, it is actually native to Andalucía in southern Spain, not Barcelona. Even though it has since migrated up north, Barcelona’s specialty is its Mediterranean seafood, and fresh fruit. You can find all of this and a lot more at el Mercat de La Boqueria, a vibrant open-air market located just off La Rambla, Barcelona’s main high street. My friends and I went back on multiple occasions and had delicious meals every time. Budget wise, if you limit yourself to two small meals a day and one big one, you won’t find yourself spending too much money on food. At dinners, especially if you’re in a large group, the key is to get a family-style dish that everyone can share. Even if everyone has a side dish, you can keep the bill under €15 per person. Barcelona is also the perfect place to take ad-
vantage of Europe’s more lenient drinking laws. I’d highly recommend Rubi’s Bar located in the heart of the Gothic Quarter – the atmosphere is great, the drinks are cheap but good, and the music is perfect. Before going on my trip, I thought that being able to able to speak Spanish would have been more helpful than it was, and was surprised that all the street signs were in Catalan and most people spoke Catalan whenever possible. As historical evidence and the recent Catalonian independence movement show, the pride of the city’s natives in their identity has not wavered. In addition, its natural draw as a big city close to the south of France, as well as its popularity as a tourist destination in the summer makes Barcelona feels truly cosmopolitan. I feel that the formation of the city’s identity is a result of the seamless integration of the city’s native Catalan population, its immigrants and its visitors, the result of which is something genuinely authentic. Akhil Mithal is from New Delhi, India. His favorite city is London, England because it has a unique history but still feels international. 41
Guac’s Guide to Barcelona on a Budget To Eat
Pinotxo Bar Tucked away in el Mercat de La Boqueria, one of Barcelona’s many open air markets, this small bar is always full, and for good reason. It is beloved by locals and tourists alike and features Catalan specialities showcasing the best of Barcelona’s ingredients. Address: Pinotxo Bar, Mercat de la Boqueria, Carrer la Rambla, Barcelona Hours: 7am - 4pm, Mon-Sat Price: $$ or ~€10
To See
To Stay
Park Güell
Rent an Apartment
One of Barcelona’s lesser known attractions, Park Guell sits at the top of the El Coll - the hill - and features some of Gaudi’s most innovative and eye-catching work. Make sure to go on a clear day and bring your camera to in order to enjoy the stunning panoramic views of the city below. Address: 08024 Barcelona Hours: 8:30am - 6pm Price: €7.50
The most affordable accomodation can be found through renting apartments on websites like Airbnb and HomeAway. Book early because the most central locations get filled up quickly. The neighborhoods of Eixample and el Poblenou are ideally located, and have good metro connectivity. Apartments are also the most authentic way of experiencing the city - your host can give you tips on where to go or eat close by.
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Mumbai
The City of Dreams by Malvika Dahiya Built on what was once seven separate islands floating on the Arabian Sea, Mumbai—formerly known as Bombay—is India’s bustling financial hub, home to Bollywood, and the third most densely populated city in the world. Often referred to as “the city of dreams,” Mumbai is a symbol of opportunity, upward mobility, hope, and prosperity to millions of Indians. It is a place where anything is possible and anyone can fulfill their potential. Drive or walk around the city and it’s easy to see why. Mumbai is full of colorful chaos, buzzing with crowds of people hustling, young professionals running to catch trains in the monsoon rains, street vendors dragging carts of the
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famous local snack vada pav (deep fried potato fritters inside lightly toasted buns and served with spicy chutneys) and mothers dressed in bright saris with armfuls of bangles dropping their children to school. At the heart of the city’s energy and vibrance are people who will stop at nothing to achieve their dreams and will work their hardest in this city of opportunity, but who will also open their doors to strangers stranded in the monsoon floods with warmth, chai and snacks. Being Indian, I thought I knew what to expect when I first visited Mumbai two years ago. Mumbai ended up surprising me with its history and youthful energy. The beauty of Mumbai
is in its diversity. People from all walks of life thrive in Mumbai as it is home to almost every religion known to humankind and has a rich cultural legacy. Walk around the lavish locality of Bandra - home to many Bollywood personalities, cricket players and politicians - and you will find old, quaint British and Portuguese churches in between some of the best restaurants and cafes in the city. Drive to the coast of Worli, the heart of the city, and you can see the famous Haji Ali Dargah, a mosque located on an isle in the sea accessible by a walkway. Take a 40 minute ferry away from the city and you will reach Elephanta Caves, an island filled with hidden caves with ancient Hindu statues and carvings.
For a traveller on a budget, Mumbai is the perfect city. Tourist attractions are cheap, but they are not necessary to get a complete picture of Mumbai; it is easy to get a distinct flavor of the city just by driving around. Mumbai is at once home to Asia’s largest slum and the world’s most expensive home. Crowds of people hang from the doors of the packed local trains, while India’s richest man flies home in a helicopter. Five-star hotels offer expensive arrays of delicious teas and pastries, while chai vendors on the street pour the most satisfying cups of masala tea for under a dollar. For luxury seekers, Mumbai has plenty of great options, but I believe that Mumbai is actually ideal for budget travellers because they are able to see the true soul of the city in a raw, unfiltered, authentic light. 45
Uber and Ola (India’s Lyft) are widely available at very reasonable rates, but if you want a more authentic Mumbai experience, kaali peeli’s (Hindi for “black and yellow”) are the black and yellow cabs unique to the city that can be easily found anywhere, with very reasonable prices as well. Strike up a conversation with any taxi driver and you will be amazed at the myriad of stories and diverse backgrounds of people who came to the city for a better life. For accommodation, I would recommend that even budget travellers invest in staying in at least a standard 3-star hotel for safety and hygiene reasons - the rest of Bombay is inexpensive enough that investing slightly more in safe accomodation is definitely worth it!
I am a strong believer in learning about a city through your taste buds—the Mumbai experience would be incomplete without its food. Mumbai is a haven for food lovers. Many people who know Indian food associate it with curries and naan bread. While this true, there are many regional differences to Indian food that are as nuanced as India itself. I highly recommend trying Gujarati food while in Mumbai. Gujarat is a state near Mumbai that has had a prominent impact on the city’s culinary culture. All the curries, daals (lentils) and vegetable dishes that you may be familiar with have the distinctive Gujarati twist of being either very spicy, very sweet, or both. Sweetness in savoury dishes may sound strange, but it is extremely delicious and a great way to gastronomically explore one of India’s many subcultures. In addition to the food, the whole Gujarati restaurant experience is worth trying in itself. Typically, a Gujarati restaurant will serve a thali: a round, metal plate filled with many different types of food. This may include a variety of different Indian breads, appetizers and various curries, daals and vegetables in the bowls. The idea behind this is to have a holistic meal that incorporates many different types of foods, flavors, spices and textures on one plate so that you really get a little bit of everything the restaurant has to offer. As you dig into your thali, servers will continuously circle the establishment offering to refill your plate with whichever dishes you want, as many times as you want until you are satisfied. All of that, for under $5-10!
Left: Church of St. Andrew Right: The Gateway of India Bottom: The Haji Ali Dargah mosque and tomb located off the coast
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For the less adventurous diner, Mumbai has essentially anything else you would want to eat. Kala Ghoda (which translates to Black Horse) is an art district downtown with many of the city’s beautiful heritage buildings, art galleries and educational institutions. The area is packed with charming brunch spots and cafes (perfect for your Instagram avocado toast shot), in addition to typical Indian restaurants. Bandra, a posh neighborhood in West Mumbai, is also famous for its diverse and high-quality eateries. They have everything from fusion Pan-Asian bistros, to the best salad spots in town, to decadent patisseries. Prices vary, but you would probably spend only $10 per person at an upmarket cafe downtown. One of my favorite things to do in Mumbai is to explore the culturally rich downtown area called Colaba. I would start a trip to Colaba at the famous Leopold Cafe. Owned by descendants of Zoroastrian Iranians who came to India in the 19th century, it is another marker of India’s ethnic diversity and multiculturalism. The cafe, with bullet holes that remain on the walls, holds significant emotional meaning to the people of Mumbai. The cafe was attacked by terrorists in the infamous Bombay terror attacks of November 26, 2008, but reopened just four days after the attack, becoming a symbol of strength, resilience, and the spirit of defiance for Indians.
After grabbing a bite at the cafe, I loved walking around the street markets that adorn the district. They decorate the sidewalks with colorful handicrafts, tote bags with ethnic designs, and art with images of elephants, gods and other Hindu symbols. Finally, no trip to Colaba is complete without stopping by the famous Gateway of India by the seaside promenade. The Gateway—a beautiful example of Indian architecture—is an arch monument built in the 20th century. Towering proudly over the Arabian sea, it was originally built to welcome British governors and allow entry and access into India. It is Mumbai’s top tourist attraction and a definite must-see. I love Mumbai, and would recommend it to any traveler on or off a budget. To me, Mumbai is the smell of milk, ginger and cardamom lingering around the chaiwala (tea vendor) at the street corner. Mumbai is long commutes, bumper to bumper traffic and crowded trains that somehow always manage to squeeze that extra person in. Mumbai is temples, mosques and churches. Mumbai is warmth, energy and possibility. Mumbai is the city of dreams. Malvika Dahiya is from Mumbai, India, and Singapore. Her favorite city is her hometown of Mumbai because of the history, culture and chaos.
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Guac’s Guide to Mumbai on a Budget To See
To Stay
Elephanta Caves
Hotel ITC Grand Central
The island of the Elephanta Caves is a UNESCO World Heritage Site consisting of rock-cut temples carved into ancient caves dedicated to the Hindu Lord Shiva. It is a peaceful getaway perfect for a daytrip away from the contrastingly chaotic city life of Mumbai.
The ITC Grand Central is a part of India’s reputable ITC hotel chain and so the slightly higher price tag comes with a guarantee of quality and safety. Being located in Parel, a very central area, will also give you easier access to the city and save you money (and time) on transport. Address: 287, Dr Babasaheb Ambedkar Road, Parel, Mumbai, Maharashtra 400012, India Price: ~$150/night (or ~$75/night per person if sharing a two person room)
Gateway of India Located downtown in Colaba right by the ocean, it is a great place to walk around, take pictures next to the ocean and admire the architectural beauty and history of Mumbai.
To Eat
Chetana Restaurant This classic Gujarati restaurant is located in the heart of Mumbai, in the art district of Kala Ghoda. Their typical thalis are served with the traditional drink of fresh buttermilk or jaljeera (spiced water with roasted cumin seeds), two varieties of snacks, two vegetables, rice, three types of Indian breads, a sweet daal (lentils) and kadhi (a yoghurt based spicy-sweet gravy). Sit back, relax, and enjoy the unique and delicious flavors of Gujarati food and hospitality while in one of the most exciting areas of town. Price: $ Address: 34, K Dubash Marg, Kala Ghoda, Fort, Mumbai
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Cologne A City of Twinkling Lights and Snowy Nights by TJ Ball
Fun fact for those of you who don’t follow international business news or care much for German economic policy – Germany doesn’t have Uber. Something my friend Matt and I learned the hard way shortly after we landed in Cologne, Germany in mid-December of last year. After a solid twenty minutes of haggling with taxi drivers in our broken French and very broken German, we finally found a cab driver we decided wasn’t going to rip us off. A short ride later and we arrived at our Airbnb, a simple apartment in a quiet suburb of the city. With only 36 hours in this enchanting German metropolis, Matt and I wanted to make sure we spent our time wisely, so we quickly dropped off our bags and set out for downtown around 8pm. 50
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Kolner Dom Christmas market at night
The friendly woman who owned the Airbnb recommended we take a fifteen minute ride on the U-Bahn to get downtown. Heeding her advice, we only had to walk a minute or two to get to the Konigsforst station. Before we knew it, we were stepping out at the Heumarkt stop into a winter wonderland. Across the street from the U-Bahn station stood a wooden archway, with what seemed to be thousands of dazzling white Christmas lights beckoning us from just beyond. As we passed under the arch we were immersed in a sea of smells and sights – grilled bratwurst off to one side, freshly made waffles and crêpes off to another, the thick smell of spilled beer and muhlwein wafting from just a little bit ahead, and from all around the undeniable, fresh scent of pine needles. Large German cities (and even small ones too) are known for their bustling Christmas markets that take place throughout the month of December, reaching their peak in the weeks leading up to Christmas.
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Christmas markets have been a holiday tradition in Germany for hundreds of years, with the first markets in the region taking place in the 1300s. Every German city has their own local twist on this authentic tradition, with some being particularly known for live music, German desserts and meats or even homemade Christmas décor. Within major German cities you might even find multiple Christmas markets – again each with a particular theme. One of the ways by which markets differentiate themselves from each other is by having their own unique mug. When you purchase muhlwein, hot chocolate,or another hot beverage, it is served to you in a Christmas-themed mug which you can then carry throughout the market. When you’ve finished you can then either return the mug to a nearby vendor and get a few euros back, or hold onto it and keep it as a souvenir to remember your trip! Needless to say, Matt and I each brought a few back.
Though Cologne’s Christmas markets are truly magical at night, you can experience most of them during the day as well (and be a little warmer too). After a night of wandering through the vintage-looking stalls at Heumarkt, we returned to our Airbnb and had a nice jet-lag sponsored rest. The next morning we packed up all of our things and set out again for downtown by U-Bahn1. Though we hopped off at the Heumarkt stop again, we decided to walk along the Rhein for a bit to check out a different Christmas market that we had spotted the night before. As we drew closer to the Harbour Market we noticed a rather imposing structure sitting just behind the market’s quaint wooden booths. We soon learned that this structure was in fact Cologne’s chocolate museum, where you can learn about the history of chocolate, see it made and most importantly sample a large selection of chocolate in the museum’s gift shop.
“Though Cologne’s Christmas markets are truly magical at night, you can experience most of them during the day as well.” Strolling through the Harbour market, Matt and I noted that this market had a greater emphasis on selling seafood, chocolate desserts and handmade Christmas trinkets. While Matt wandered through the stalls of homemade jewelry, knit scarves and figurines in search of Christmas gifts, I went to a food truck selling fresh seafood. Regardless of what it was, it made for a perfect three euro brunch, nicely complimenting my morning cup of hot chocolate (served in a Christmas mug of course).
1. Since Matt and I were only in Cologne for one day and had to catch a train to Amsterdam that night, we ended up bringing all of our things with us when we went into the city. Though we ended up carrying around our bags the entire day to save a few bucks, you can find safe and relatively low-cost storage lockers at the main train station (Koln Hauptbahnhof) in Cologne. Heumarkt Christmas market on a mid-afternoon
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“Though there are obviously some things that are so unique you may feel compelled to drop a little extra cash on them – lucky for you (and me) Cologne doesn’t have too many of these things. If you’re not the type of traveler who is content to just walk around and hop between shops, sights and free events, Cologne will change that for you – especially if you’re there around the holiday season.”
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Though it had become abundantly clear the night before that I should’ve done more to brush up on my little knowledge of German, I was somehow able to ask the woman behind the counter what her favorite dish was at the truck. She promptly pointed to one fish sandwich that vaguely looked like smoked salmon – then again most of the sandwiches did. For the rest of the day, Matt and I wandered through several other markets, down some cobblestone streets and into a few churches. Despite it being chilly, it was incredibly fun to get a sense of the city and see its major attractions just by casually walking around. I’m personally a huge fan of budget travel. Though there are obviously some things that are so unique you may feel compelled to drop a little extra cash on them – lucky for you (and me) Cologne doesn’t have too many of these things. If you’re not the type of traveler who is content to just walk around and hop between shops, sights and free events, Cologne will change that for you – especially if you’re there around the holiday season.
Left page: A look up the magnificent Kolner Dom Top: A vendor at the Kolner Dom Christmas market Bottom: Fish sandwiches offered at the Harbor Christmas market food truck Right: Two vendors prepare Kasspatzle (melted cheese snack on bread)
One thing that I would say is worth a little extra money is having some authentic German food in one of the beer houses or taverns. There’s a number of places to pick from, each with their own version of traditional dishes and every one serving Kolsch – a type of beer made in Cologne. We stopped by one to have a late lunch and seek refuge from the cold. Even if you’re not super big on German food, these taverns make for a great opportunity to observe locals going about their daily routines. Before we caught our train for Amsterdam, we made sure to stop by one last market, located just next to the city’s central train station and Cologne Cathedral (Kolner Dom). Though slightly more commercial and touristy than some of the city’s other markets, this one certainly had the largest variety of food, trinkets, souvenirs, ornaments and gifts. With a huge Christmas tree at the center of all the stalls, and the 800 year-old Kolner Dom as the backdrop for a myriad of beautiful lights, this is one spot you have to be sure not to miss.
TJ is a DC native who grew up in Southern Maryland, where he enjoys spending time sailing and driving around listening to country music. His favorite city that he’s been to is Istanbul, Turkey because of its intersection of so many rich cultures, manifested by the many different types of food, architecture, religion, art, and spices which brighten the city’s streets and give it life.
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Guac’s Guide to Cologne on a Budget To Do
Kolner Dom
Rathaus
Visitors can go inside the 800 year old cathedral for free Address: Domkloster 4, Cologne
Historical city hall, free to walk around and take pictures of. Address: Rathauspl. 2
Museum Ludwig, Modern Art Museum
Schokoladen Museum
There’s a nice outdoor park/seating area next to the museum that’s a nice spot for having a picnic by the Rhein if you’re there in warmer months Address: Heinrich-Böll-Platz, Cologne Opening Hours: 12am-6pm, Tue-Sun Price: 7 Euro entry fee
Address: Am Schokoladenmuseum 1A, 50678 Cologne Opening Hours: 10am-6pm, MonFri; 11am-7pm, Sat-Sun
Heumarkt, Harbour, and Kolner Dom Christmas Markets Opening Hours: Hours vary
To Eat
Street Food at Christmans Markets Street food at Christmas markets (5 out of 5 stores, can get a lot of different good food for cheap): in particular bratwurst (about 3 euro), reibekuchen (3 for 5 Euro), muhlwein (5 euro, only 3 Euro if you return the mug), and waffles (4 Euro). Opening Hours: 10am–10pm typically
To Stay
Brauhaus Zum Prinzen
Airbnb
I strongly recommend Himmel und Erde (15 Euro) and Kolsch (2 Euro). This place has a lot of great traditional German food, however like most of the other places in Cologne that serve traditional dishes, it’s a little on the more expensive side. The space is very open and the rustic wooden seating makes you feel like you’re in an 1800s German tavern. Address: Alter Markt 20, 50667 Köln, Germ Opening Hours: 12pm-12am most days
Lots of cheap options in different suburbs of the city. Address: We stayed at Rosrather Strasse 692, Cologne, Germany Price: Most are $20-$30/night if you have two people for under $5
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Cilantro: the Connector The connections that will make you travel the world more efficiently
The Team Directors
Contents
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