guac
Issue 1 Hidden Gems Fall 2017 Morocco Luoyang Wangdue Phodrang Rhotia Cesano Maderno Bali Drøbak Bariloche
Letter from the Editor As an international student, I often get stuck in the middle seat on a 14-hour flight flying across the Pacific Ocean to get back home. I have racked up an insane number of miles (able to fly around the world almost six times over) in the past few years, and none of the little vexations of traveling bother me anymore. The intriguing— and sometimes even bizarre—moments that I, along with other international students, have had while traveling inspired us to start this magazine. Travel, of course, is not just for international students. We live in a globalized age. Every individual is strongly connected to their fellow inhabitants of this planet, as space and time seem to converge at an alarming rate. But oftentimes, this notion of interconnectedness is lost due to political, social or economic externalities, that instead generate a disconnect between cultures. Guac aims to abolish this sense of disconnect. Through this magazine, we aspire to bring the diverse beauty of our world to the palms of our readers. Written by Cornellians for Cornellians, we aim to connect and inspire people to go out and immerse themselves in different cultures and places, truly embracing what this wonderful world has to offer. This is Guac’s first issue: Hidden Gems. It explores some of the world’s best-kept travel secrets, places, and attractions that are typically overlooked by travelers. I hope you will fully indulge yourself in this journey, and that together we can close this gap between “us” and “them”. We look forward to taking you around the world. Let your travels begin,
Zeyu Hu Editor-in-Chief
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About guac
Mission To deliver the diverse knowledge, experiences, and stories of different cultures to the palms of our readers.
Vision To spread love, appreciation, and meaningful exchanges across people of all cultures and backgrounds.
Cilantro: the Connector The quick connector that will make you travel the world more efficiently
Jalapenos: the Kick The spice kick that adds an extra flavor of originality and cultural immersion in each story
Tomatoes: the Facts The detailed facts of cities that will guide you on your journey
Onions: the Layers The thick layers of stories written by individuals of all cultures and backgrounds
Avocado: the Base A travel magazine written for Cornellians by Cornellians
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Table of Contents Letter from the Editor
2
About
4
Colors of Morroco, The Western Kingdom
6
Morocco
Longmen Grottoes: A Forgotten Ancient Wonder
16
Phobjikha Valley: A Nature Trail at the Last Shangri-La
22
Luoyang, China
Wangdue Phodrang, Bhutan
Ninapenda Tanzania: A Summer in the Savannah Rhotia, Tanzania
30
Cesano Maderno: Volunteering in a Small Italian Town
38
Bali: Sunset Lover’s Paradise
46
Cesano Maderno, Italy
Bali, Indonesia
Drøbak: The Village in the Valley
54
Drøbak, Norway
Mountains, Lakes, and Cool Snowflakes
60
The Team
66
Special Thanks
67
Bariloche, Canada
Table of Contents | 5
Colors of Morocco The Western Kingdom by Cathy Zhang
Looking over Jamaa el Fna, Marrakech’s most populated square from a cafe rooftop.
“So you’ve been to Morocco?”
“So you’ve been to Morocco?” I asked my Airbnb host, Max, while visiting in Vienna. “Yeah, we stayed for 30 days, and went everywhere we could go to. Lots of places had no tourists. We went surfing and climbed mountains…” Max went on, showing me the photos of the snowy Atlas mountains, the Zagora desert, the oceans by Essaouira, and more. I was shocked by the country’s geographic diversity. “How can there be so many different types of landscapes at the same season in one country?” I asked, already excited. “You see, this is the magic of Morocco,” he replied. “You can get a mix of climates and landscapes: from oceans to mountains and deserts. I highly recommend you to check it out!” This conversation was in March. Two months later I stepped out onto the airport floor in Tangier: back again on the African continent, but this time on the very northwestern side.
Colors of Morocco | 7
M
orocco, the gem of northwestern Africa and just a 45 minute boat ride from Gibraltar, has been an intriguing country for many. When I ask my friends about Morocco the answers are often mixed with both desire to “check it out” and fear for their safety while traveling in Islamic countries. If Morocco is truly unsafe and unwelcoming, what is it about the country that has attracted so many figures, from Anthony Bourdain to Yves Saint Laurent, to visit, settle down, and even fall in love? I couldn’t wait to find out about this “magical power” attracting visitors from around the world every year. To do just that I went on a ten-day journey from the northern ocean side to the southern Sahara desert.
Outside of Casa Perleta, the little guesthouse we stayed at in Chefchaouen.
“I couldn’t wait to find out about this magical power attracting visitors from around the world every year.”
Tips on traveling to Morocco 1
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A hotel (“Dar”) in Chefchaouen
Be aggressive when negotiating prices Beautifully crafted souvenirs, lamps, babouches, plates, etc. can be found virtually anywhere inside medinas, but in Moroccan culture shop owners usually give you two or three times the actual price when you ask. I recommend asking for at most 50% of the price they tell you, then move up or down depending on your situation.
Safety While Morocco is fairly safe for travelers, people tend to feel uneasy due to the overwhelming friendliness of locals. Yes, people (especially men) do follow tourists around in an attempt to reel them into hotels, restaurants, or guided tours in exchange for some tips, but the best way to deal with them is to firmly refuse and walk away. If you need directions it’s best to ask women and the elderly.
Embrace stumbles With its varying amenities across the country, you’ll likely find that things don’t always go according to plan. Even though I’d planned ahead for everything, I still experienced issues with train delays, tourist scams, and even food poisoning in the desert. However, each stumble becomes a part of a great story and a whole new learning experience. If my train hadn’t been delayed I would never have had the opportunity to meet someone who grew up in a medina and who now works at Google Paris, and learn from his experience about how the medina has changed over the years.
Graffiti wall in Chefchaouen
A confectionary souk owner with his candies
Decor shop displays in souks of Marrakech
Sipping Moroccan mint tea at Cafe Paris in Tangier medina
Some Highlights I’ve already made a promise to myself to come back. There are still countless places to explore and more people I’d love to meet. For those who are still hesitating, take no more time to think. This hidden gem will likely be swarmed with tourists very soon, and you don’t want to miss your chance for the experience of a lifetime.
Streets of Tangier medina
Different shades of blue in Chefchaouen
Tangier
Chefchaouen
In planning this itinerary I wanted to include some non-touristy cities (aka: not Marrakesh and Casablanca) to obtain a perspective of authentic Morocco. I started my trip in Tangier and it did not disappoint. The city had an interesting balance of Moroccan culture and European influence. Bordering Spain by the Strait of Gibraltar, the city’s buildings were a mix of modern and ancient: its medina (old town) is 600 years old. Perhaps due to its strong European influence and its large expatriate population, Tangier gave me the impression that it’s an evolving city on its way to potentially becoming a port city of global importance in future years.
Cool Spot: La Saveur de Poisson
Recommended by Anthony Bourdain himself. The bistro opens at 7pm every night and has a fixed 5-course menu consisting of sea-to-table fish dishes for only $20. Other interesting fact: no alterations allowed (sorry, diet restriction eaters). 12 | Guac Magazine
Deemed by media outlets as “the best well-kept secret” of Morocco, this Spanish-occupied town was not actually discovered until the 1900s. Commonly known as “the blue pearl,” the city is, in fact, painted blue. Rumor has it that the blue paint was a way for residents to get rid of mosquitoes and to cool off from the summer heat. Even though it’s uncertain if those rumors are true it definitely felt slightly more breathable walking through the winding streets of Chefchaouen than it did in the sauna-like heat of southern Morocco. Getting lost in Chefchaouen’s medina is a dream-come-true to many photographers, and, as an amateur photographer, I was able to snap beautiful pictures in some of the most surprising and remarkable places.
Cool Spot: Casa Perleta
In Morocco, guest houses are called riads, and Casa Perleta is an adorable little riad in the center of the Chefchaouen medina. The rooftop has a great view of the town and their breakfast spread is simply delightful.
Left: Dining room of Casa Perleta, perfect for a photoshoot Top right: Resting area just outside of our room in Casa Perleta Bottom right: House cats of Casa Perleta at the door
Marrakesh
Other than Casablanca, Marrakesh is probably the most visited city in Morocco. The red city attracts artists, designers, and entrepreneurs alike from all over the world, who create a vibrant yet cohesive city that puts Morocco’s creative side on display. I particularly enjoyed the more modern amenities offered in this tourist destination: I had my first taste of French-Moroccan cuisine, and also experienced my first credit card transaction here (the country is almost entirely cash only). Aside from the chic babouche and spice souks that one can easily find in any city’s medina, Marrakesh has its own flare to its shops: the goods range from the highest of quality to $10 handmade straw baskets that are a bargain for their quality and design.
Cool Spot: Yves Saint Laurent Garden
The YSL Garden’s boutique is home to its designer’s original print babouches. Also NOMAD, and so many more!
Zagora Desert
Before the trip I’d longed to see the Sahara desert, as described in The Little Prince, with my own eyes. In reality, deserts are much further away from civilization than you’d think. I didn’t have much time in this trip and therefore only had one night inside the desert camp, but just driving took the majority of my time. Even so, experiencing some of the most extreme environments was important for me to gain a greater sense of appreciation of our world’s natural resources.
Cathy Zhang is from Nanjing, China and Vancouver, Canada. Her favorite city is Barcelona, Spain because its vibrant culture is represented across categories, from its food, wine, architecture, music, and people. Colors of Morocco | 13
Guac’s Guide to Morocco To Eat Restaurant Populaire Saveur de Poisson Taste-tested and verified by Anthony Bourdain himself on Parts Undiscovered, the Moroccan seafood bistro opens at 7:00PM every night and has a fixed 5-course menu consisting of sea-to-table fish dishes, appetizers, desserts and unlimited hawthorn berry juice and bread for only USD $20. Other interesting fact: no alterations allowed (sorry, diet restriction eaters). Address: 2 Escalier Waller, Tangier, Morocco Hours: 12-4PM and 7-10PM except Fridays Guac Rating:
NOMAD I first discovered this in a “36 hours in Marrakech” series video on NYT, as recommended by Marrakech’s local artists and designers alike. NOMAD is the place to be for trying modern Moroccan cuisine in Marrakech. Opened by Kamal Laftimi and Sebastian de Gzell after taking over an old carpet store off the places des épices (spice square), the 4-floor restaurant has a variety of options for all diets, with additional attention to sourcing locally and preserving Moroccan traditional cooking methods while incorporating an international twist. Address: 1 DERB AARJAN,RAHBA LAKDIMA، Marrakech 40000, Morocco Hours: 11AM-11PM Mon-Sun Guac Rating:
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To Stay Casa Perleta In Morocco, guest houses are called riads, and Casa Perleta is an adorable little riad in the center of the Chefchaouen medina. Different shades of freshly painted blue hues surround this riad, with two adorable house cats guarding the guests. The rooftop has a great view of the town and their breakfast spread is nutritious and tasty. Address: Bab Souk - Medina, Chefchaouen 91000, Morocco (ask local women/elders/taxi drivers for directions once inside medina!) Hours: 24/7 Guac Rating:
To See Jardin Majorelle/YSL Museum Originally commissioned by French painter Jacques Majorelle, Jardin Majorelle was purchased by Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé in 1980, saving it from becoming a real estate development project. The two lived in the villa they built over their visits, and undertook major restoration of the garden. While taking a look at the diverse variety of plants in the garden and its design, don’t forget to buy one of YSL’s original Valentine’s Day card illustrations at the boutique. Address: Rue Yves Saint Laurent, Marrakech 40090, Morocco Hours: 8-5:30PM Mon- Sun Guac Rating:
Morocco City Guide | 15
Longmen Grottoes A Forgotten Ancient Wonder by Zeyu Hu
As one of the Four Great Ancient Capitals of China, the city of Luoyang (洛阳) is definitely the least known to outside visitors. Luoyang served as an important city and stronghold to 13 dynasties for over 3 millenniums and was the birthplace of Buddhism in China. Some 10 kilometers away from the Luoyang’s city center, carved into the valley of limestone cliffs formed by the Yi River (伊河) and the Xiang ( 香山) and Longmen (龙门山) Mountains, stand some of the finest examples of Chinese Buddhist art. Over 100,000 statues of the Buddha and his
disciples are carved into approximately 2,500 manmade caves. Some carvings are merely 2 centimeters (2 inches) tall, while others stand 18 meters (60 feet) in height. This is the grand and fascinating site of the Longmen Grottoes (龙门石窟). The name “Dragon’s Gate Grottoes” derives from the natural resemblance of the Xiang and Longmen Mountains on both sides of the Yi River to a typical Chinese Gate tower (牌 坊). These hills served as the southern “gate” to the city of Luoyang, which, during its height, was the 2nd most populous city in the world.
The various caves and rich carvings, religious and imperial motifs, and information about daily life make the Longmen Grottoes one of China’s richest architectural treasures. A statue of Guanyin, the compassionate Bodhisattva, with her face removed
Listed as an UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2000 for “an outstanding manifestation of human artistic creativity,” the Longmen Grottoes illustrate the close relationship between imperial and religious elements of the Chinese community. The grottoes were carved from the 5th Century to the 12th century, although some items date as far back as the Qing Dynasty. The first carvings can be traced back to the reign of Emperor Xiaowen of the Northern Wei Period (北魏孝文帝) when he moved his capital from Datong to Luoyang. A third were carved during the Northern Wei Period, while over half came from the Tang Dynasty (唐代), and the rest are from other periods. The grottoes were not only a gallery of Chinese art, but also provided a wealth of information on most areas of Chinese culture. The Yaofang Cave (药房洞) contains over 150 inscriptions of treatments for illnesses ranging from the common cold to 18 | Guac Magazine
insanity. Many of these treatments are used on a regular basis in both Chinese and western medicine practices. There are numerous depictions of the life of the Buddha, including his disciples, bodhisattvas, guardians, apsaras and other creatures that reflect the change and development of Buddhism in China over hundred of years and numerous dynasties. The Longmen Grottoes reflect the early Buddhist art styles of Indian and Yungang Grottoes (云冈石窟). However, these sculptures are clad in roomier Han-style gowns and reflect a dignified refinement and elegant grace that was to influence much of China’s later Buddhist sculpture. The earlier Northern Wei Period statues are mostly of Shakyamuni and Maitreya Bodhisattva. Later statues from the Tang Dynasty are more attached to the Maitreya Buddha of the Future and the Amitabha and Guayin, the compassionate Bodhisattva who reflected concern for personal salvation.
Fengxian Temple
Fengxian is the largest and the most representative statue of the Longmen Grottoes. Completed in 676 AD during the Tang Dynasty, the massive 18 meter (60 feet) tall statue of Vairocana Buddha dwarfs all of the other Longmen statues. It has 2 meter (6.5 feet) long ears, plump facial features, and a peaceful expression. This Temple was built for Empress Wu Zetian (武则天) and it is said that the face of the Vairocana Buddha is modeled after the Empress herself, which is why it is often heralded as a Chinese Mona Lisa, Venus or as the Mother of China. Each statue within this Shrine, although sustaining some damage, still retains wonderful detail, character, and animation. To the side of Vairocana Buddha are his two major disciples Kasyapa and Ananda, and two Bodhisattvas. Lokapalas (guardians or heavenly kings) and dvarapalas (temple guards) statues are shown on the side faces of the temple, guarding the site. Fengxian Temple
Guyang Cave
The Guyang Cave is one of the oldest caves at the Longmen Grottoes and perhaps the most important in demonstrating the skill of the Northern Wei style of carving. Dating back to the Northern Wei Period, the cave is filled with rich architectural design and a variety of fine calligraphy. Among the 600 inscriptions are some of the finest examples of Northern Wei style of writing. There are rows of perfectly carved niches with excellently-crafted Buddhist statues along the walls. It had been suggested that earliest carvings in this cave were made in 478 A.D., predating the movement of the capital by Emperor Xiaowen, thus suggesting the transfer of capitals was long in the planning. Guyang Cave
Wanfo Cave
Wanfo Cave (万佛洞) was formally dedicated in 680 AD and was created under the direction of the Palace Chapel nun Zhiyun (智 运) and Yao Shenbiao (姚神表), a woman in the palace services. The literal translation of the name is “Ten Thousand Buddha Cave”, where actually over 15,000 Buddha statues, each 2 centimeters tall, are carved into the wall of the cave. Slightly larger carvings of Bodhisattvas on lotus flowers appear on the rear wall. The large interior of the cave was used for worshippers and ceremonies. Interestingly, the patrons of this cave were a mixture of the traditional elite and ordinary citizens with almost a quarter of these carvings coming from the direct patronage of nuns. The various caves and rich carvings, religious and imperial motifs, and information about daily life make the Longmen Grottoes one of China’s richest architectural treasures. Ticket Price: ¥100 (ticket sales end an hour before closing time) Opening Hours: 8:00am - 5:00pm
Wanfo Cave with Bodhisattva sitting on the lotus flowers in the center and thousands of smaller carving seen on the side walls
Zeyu Hu is from Beijing, China and Bangkok, Thailand. His favorite city is Montreal, Canada because it perfectly integrates two different cultures into one, producing a vibrant city which creates a unique lifestyle. Longmen Grottoes | 19
Guac’s Guide to Longmen Grottoes To Eat Luoyang Water Banquet Dating back to the Tang Dynasty, the Luoyang Water Banquet (洛阳水席) is one of Ancient China’s culinary traditions preserved to date. The banquet consists of 24 dishes. It starts off with 8 appetizers and is followed by 4 main course dishes. Next, 8 complementary dishes are added and 4 finale dishes are served to finish off the feast. Guac Rating:
Hidden Gem Guanlin Temple Guan Yu (关羽) was a hero in Chinese history and one of the only people universally respected by Confucians, Buddhists and Taoists alike. Guanlin Temple (关林) is the burial site of Guan Yu’s head. He was murdered by the Wu Kingdom during the Three Kingdoms Period and buried with the highest honors. Emperors of all succeeding dynasties revered Guan Yu and worshipped him as the God of War. Opening Hours: 8:10am - 5:00pm Price: ¥40 Guac Rating:
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To See White Horse Temple According to tradition, the White Horse Temple (白马寺) was the first Buddhist temple in China. It was built in 68 AD under the patronage of Emperor Ming of the Eastern Han Dynasty. Although the White Horse Temple is small in size, it is considered by many believers to be the cradle of Chinese Buddhism. Address: Baima Si Lu, Luoyang 471013, China Opening Hours: 7.40am-6:00pm Price: ¥35 Guac Rating:
Luoyang Peony Festival Each year between April and May the peonies are in full blossom, setting the stage for the Luoyang Peony Festival. The main venue for this festival is Luoyang National Peony Garden (洛阳国家牡丹园) which boasts over 1 million peony trees of 1200 different species. Address: Mudanyuan, Laocheng District, Luoyang 471000, China Opening Hours: 6:30AM-7:00PM (April 1st to May 5th of each year) Price: ¥55 Guac Rating:
City Guide Longmen Grottoes | 21
Phobjikha Valley A Nature Trail at the Last Shangri-La by Pia Bocanegra
In the land-locked Bhutan, known to be the last Shangri-La in the world, lies Phobjikha Valley. Phobjikha Valley, a 4-hour drive away from Punakha, is an expansive glacial valley. After several days of visiting countless untouched monasteries at Thimphu and Punakha, I didn’t know what to expect from an unassuming place in the middle of the Black Mountain region. Though a detour for most Bhutan tours, Phobjikha Valley is worth the long journey off the main highway. Upon arrival, my family and I had a full-course meal at a local homestay. We conversed with the Bhutanese hosts and ate on pillows on the straw 22 | Guac Magazine
floor. Our lunch was a typical Bhutanese meal complete with butter tea, red rice, chili with cheese, and dried beef. Unlike any other cuisines I had tried, Bhutanese food is unique; it draws influences from its neighboring countries: India, China, and Nepal. In Bhutan, the last Buddhist kingdom in the world, people rely heavily on dairy products (such as butter, milk, and cheese) because they don’t kill animals; all the meat is imported from India. Initially, it was strange to find butter in my tea and cheese in my vegetables. Nonetheless, as a self-proclaimed foodie, I enjoyed the gastronomic experience.
Monks walking in the Thimphu Dzong
My tour guide looking into the Semchubara village from a distance
After our meal, we began the Gangtey Nature Trail, a relatively easy 2-hour hike compared to the famous Paro Taktsang (also known as Tiger’s Nest Monastery) hike. Although nothing can truly beat the majesty of the Tiger’s Nest Monastery (since it is, after all, a monastery that literally hangs off a cliff), the Gangtey Nature Trail is a completely different kind of beautiful. We started at a small hilltop overlooking Gangtey Goemba, a Buddhist Monastery in Phobjikha Valley, and then proceeded to head downhill through flower meadows. Going downhill was tricky since the rain made the trail quite muddy—in retrospect, it’s probably best not to travel to Bhutan during the rainy season, as it makes hiking and 24 | Guac Magazine
even driving on the highway dangerous. Despite the slippery slopes the flower meadows were tranquil. We even wandered through a quaint village, Semchubara. It was picturesque; many Bhutanese farmers were harvesting rice in the fields. From there, we walked through a dense forest, where the fresh air smelled like pine. It was the most serene part of the hike. After being surrounded by tall towering pine trees, we walked into the open valley, made of marshy land and grassy pastures where farm animals graze. The Phobjikha Valley was akin to the green, vast meadows from the “The Hills Are Alive” scene in the Sound of Music. This valley is most known for the global-
ly threatened black-necked cranes from Tibet that visit during the winter season; the valley is rich in faunal biodiversity and is the home of 13 other globally threatened species. Although I didn’t get the opportunity to see the black-necked cranes myself, the vast meadows were truly breathtaking on their own, making a return visit during the winter a must for me.
I was wrong. With little to no expectations, I had no idea how much scenic splendor our world could have. Walking through the pines, marshy land, and grassy pastures, I had never felt so moved and elevated by my surroundings.
Having been raised in the Philippines, an archipelago, all my life, with pristine beaches just a couple hours away from home, I thought I had seen all manifestations of untouched natural beauty. However, after travelling to Bhutan—a country my parents didn’t even know existed—I realized
Pia Bocanegra is from Manila, Philippines. Her favorite city is Koror, Palau because of the people and the untouched natural beauty. Phobjikha Valley | 25
From the forest we walked into the open valley. The valley is made of marshy land and grassy pastures where farm animals graze. The Phobjikha Valley was akin to the green, vast meadows from the “The Hills Are Alive� scene in the Sound of Music. Rice farmers harvesting near the Semchubara village
Phobjikha Valley | 27
Guac’s Guide to Bhutan To Stay Thimphu: Taj Tashi If you’re willing to splurge on hotel accommodations during your stay at Thimphu (which you might consider because you will be acclimatizing when you fly into Thimphu), Taj Tashi is the place to stay. Nestled in the Himalayan Thimphu Valley, Taj Tashi is a luxurious hotel which is designed in traditional Bhutanese style. They provide 5-star service and serve incredible food in their fine-dining Bhutanese restaurants. Guac Rating:
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To See Paro: Paro Taktsang Taktsang is, without a doubt, the main tourist attraction of Bhutan and it is for a reason. It is a prominent Himalayan Buddhist sacred site and the temple complex hangs off a cliff of the upper Paro Valley; it is an unreal experience reaching the temple after hiking 3 grueling hours. Taktsang is hands-down my favorite attraction of Bhutan.
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Punakha When one thinks of rafting, one imagines monstrous waves and rapids but in Bhutan, white-water rafting in the Mo Chuu River (also known as the female river) is a gentle river with amazing scenery. However, that is not to say that it doesn’t have exciting rapids. This is a great activity to do in groups and it is an opportunity to take in the natural scenery and admire the sight of the Punakha Dzong. White-water rafting is available year-round but it is best to do it during the summer. Guac Rating:
City Guide Bhutan | 29
Ninapenda Tanzania A Summer in the Savannah by Madison Holden
This summer, I had the unforgettable opportunity to study abroad in Tanzania in a small village called Rhotia for wildlife conservation policy and research techniques. While I went for the prospect of learning more about the environmental field that I plan on entering in the future, the experience and knowledge I gained from the local communities and people far surpassed anything I could have hoped for. Our study abroad center was located between the towns of Karatu and Mto Wa Mbu, within the Tarangire-Manyara Ecosystem. The Tanzanian way of life largely depends on agriculture and pastoralism, so they are heavily connected to the natural resources and native animal species. I was able to directly observe this by spending a day on a home-stay with a local family and by visiting some of the 120 tribes found in Tanzania. We also conducted research in three of the national parks that the country has to offer.
During my home-stay I was with a family of four children and a mother living in a small mudhouse. Traditionally the father is away for the day doing work, and the mother stays at home to take care of the children and cook and clean. The home had a small shack outside where four pigs were kept, and there were some small plots of crops like corn and pumpkins. I helped to collect and chop pumpkins to feed to the pigs, and made mud with the children to throw at the house. They live directly within the environment and need a healthy Earth in order to live. Another example of this reliance on natural resources was with the Maasai tribe, a group of people who establish temporary homes made of cow manure and branches within a boma, an area fenced in by branches. They have a pastoralist way of life, so they rely on their cattle, sheeps and goats for their livelihood. They struggle with local wildlife, particularly lions, killing the cattle, and it’s customary for the men of the tribe to go out in search of local lion prides to kill them in retaliation. The government tries to control this, but it can be difficult because of the remoteness of the tribe and the long tradition of retaliatory killings.
The Maasai aren’t the only people in Tanzania who struggle with wildlife conflicts. Elephants can trample crops, and because of their size they can get through fencing that tries to keep the animals out. Hyenas are active at night and can pose threats to people; in fact, here was a case of a drunk man being eaten by a hyena a few weeks before my study abroad program began. Still, the country’s government prioritizes conservation as a sense of national pride, and because of the revenue it provides through photographic tourism and tourist hunting. Initiatives have been taken to involve communities more heavily in conservation, allowing them to establish their land as Wildlife Management Areas that protect the animal species and give the local people some income. Conservation areas
are beautiful parts of Tanzania that are protected to various degrees with the purpose of protecting animal species and benefitting the government or communities in some way. We spent a lot of time in national parks, for instance, which are a huge draw for international tourists to come for safaris. The national parks completely restrict any human activity besides this tourism and any approved research projects. One of the projects we got to conduct was an animal count, which involved counting individual animals of each mammal species that we came across for the purpose of determining animal densities. It was exhilarating when we saw African wild dogs, a species that was once locally extinct in the area.
“Still, the country’s government prioritizes conservation as a sense of national pride and because of the revenue it provides through photographic tourism and tourist hunting.”
The Maasai tribe performing a ceremonial dance 32 | Guac Magazine
A local market in the town of Karatu, about 15 minutes from Rhotia
My homestay family outside of their mud home.
My time in Tanzania is unlikely to be outdone by many other experiences in my future. It was beneficial for me as I learned tools for a career, but I also learned about myself from the people and ways of life I was exposed to. I created beautiful memories of watching lion prides walk across a savannah, helping my homestay family make ugali and cabbage over a stove made of mud, and collecting firewood with the Maasai tribe. It solidified for me that this planet we live on deserves love, protection, and prioritization.
Madison Holden is from St. Augustine, Florida. Her favorite city is Chicago, USA because of the unique architecture and layout along the river and lake. A Summer in the Savannah | 33
Top: Giraffes in Manyara Ranch, a conservation area near Rhotia, during a giraffe research project. Bottom: A class safari in Serengeti National Park. Right: Zebras in Ngorongoro Crater, considered a biodiversity hotspot of the world.
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A Summer in the Savannah | 35
Guac’s Guide to Tanzania To Eat Zebra Cafe This local restaurant in Mto Wa Mbu offers the staple Tanzanian dishes, including ugali, nyama choma (grilled meat), and chipsi mayai (basically, an omelette of eggs and potatoes). It’s located along the main road going through town, so there is plenty of activity and local atmosphere. Price: 2.5-15 TSH Guac Rating:
Hidden Gem Rhotia Town The small village of Rhotia is situated about in the middle of two major towns, Karatu and Mto Wa Mbu, and offers an experience of its own. Being a small village, you can escape the buzz of tourism in the bigger towns and interact more with the local people. Visit one of the Rhotia tailors to purchase fabric and have shirts, skirts, dresses, wallets, and more made. Stop at one of the many tea shops for hot tea. Walk along the dirt roads that cut past homes and hills of cropland. Rhotia is a small part of Tanzania, but has many memories to offer. Guac Rating:
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To See Miwaleni Waterfall Hike This waterfall hike in Mto Wa Mbu is led by a local guide, who walks you through banana trees and along a trail across water and rocks, through the forest, and up to the beautiful waterfall. If you’d like, you can ask the guide to take you along a more intense uphill climb to the top of the waterfall itself. The hike offers gorgeous views of the green mountains surrounding the area and is a great place to sit for a packed lunch. Hikes are organized by your safari guide or resort so the address is not actually known! Price: Tip, usually 5-10 TSH Guac Rating:
City Guide Tanzania | 37
The street leading to the oratorio. We biked through it almost every day.
Cesano Maderno
Volunteering in a Small Italian Town by Lauren McBrearty
When I arrived at Malpensa Airport back in June I felt as if I were in another world. The signs in the terminal were in Italian and the casual chatter of people around me was unfamiliar to my ear. Excited, I got my passport stamped for the first time. I went on to baggage claim and waited while the woman next to me asked what language I spoke. I had been in Italy for half an hour and already I could feel that this journey was going to be a cultural awakening unlike that which I had ever experienced. Arriving in Italy, like any tourist or sightseer would, was only the tip of the iceberg. I was lucky enough to be able to spend three weeks living and working with an Italian community in Cesano Maderno; a town of about 37,000 inhabitants in the northern Italian region of Lombardy. Although it’s only twenty minutes by train from the heart of Milan, Cesano is a peaceful place, seemingly far removed from the hustle and bustle of one of the largest cities in Italy. The city of Cesano, although technically united, is composed of multiple districts echoing historical divisions. My host sister Martina informed me before I had even stepped foot in the town that the sector I would be staying in is called Binzago, and that its residents would appreciate it if I would call it that.
Binzago, and the rest of Cesano, is a place with strong ties to its history. As soon as I had set down my bags, Martina took me on a bike tour of the town. We went through small streets paved with cobblestone and rode past old men sitting in the town square, reading the newspaper, and speaking in dialect. Martina took me to the old city gate, which, now that the town has been expanded, serves as a monument rather than a marker to the entrance of the city. Its face was decorated with frescoes and she informed me that Napoleon had once ridden through here. We walked our bikes back across the piazza to the Palazzo Borromeo, a palace from the mid-1600s that was home to the noble Borromeo family but which now serves as a museum and boasts a beautiful public garden. As Martina and I rode home she would lazily stick out her arm and point at a tower here, a church there, and explain that it was old and important. These monuments, in many cases, were older than the United States, but they seemed to be so prevalent that Martina, a seventeen-year-old girl who had lived next to them all her life, considered them to be ordinary. Oratorio e Orecchiette | 39
The city of Cesano Maderno, although technically united, is composed of multiple districts echoing historical divisions. My host sister Martina informed me before I had even stepped foot in the town that the sector I would be staying in is called Binzago, and that its residents would appreciate it if I would call it that.
View of the Borromeo gardens
The real reason I was in Binzago was not the monuments. I was in Binzago as part of a volunteer program. I, along with eighteen other American college students, would be working at the community’s oratorio for the next three weeks. An oratorio is essentially a summer camp run by the Catholic Church, which is a very important part of the Italian community. My primary job as an honorary animatore was to make friends with the kids and to encourage them to speak English. At the same time they would be helping me improve my Italian. Every weekday my host sisters (there were three: Martina, 17, Giorgia, 15, and Alessia, 11) and I would wake up before eight, put on our lime green animatore t-shirts, and bike across town to our oratorio. From 9 AM to 6 PM I was outside helping coor40 | Guac Magazine
dinate activities and running around with the kids. Although by lunchtime they had usually drained my energy, I learned more from those kids than I had thought I would. By interacting with them and by watching how they interacted with each other I noticed differences between Italian and American interactions. For one, some of the stereotypes are true: Italians talk with their hands. Stefano, a boy of 11, would clasp his hands as if in prayer and shake them at you with gusto if he wasn’t getting what he wanted. Giulia, also 11, would pinch her fingers and shake them deliberately at the boys when they would hog the ball. The variety of hand motions are important because they each convey very specific and nuanced meanings. Like words, the hand motions are an essential part of communication.
Top: Inside one of the churches in Cesano Maderno where the priest held a special mass dedicated to the volunteers. Bottom: The edifice of Palazzo Arese Borromeo.
In Italy I reveled in the organized chaos. In fact, the constant motion was comforting, and once I got used to the fact that the rules were very loose, or even nonexistent, it was almost relaxing.
In Italy I reveled in the organized chaos. In fact, the constant motion was comforting and once I got used to the fact that the rules were very loose, or even nonexistent, it was almost relaxing. The oratorio undertook field trips that would have seemed impossible, at least to the suburban moms of America. One Friday we took over one hundred kids on a 30 km bike ride through town streets, on the highway, past a winding river, on a dusty road, finally arriving at a park in Brianza. We trekked through long grass and woods, fields of flowers, and over bridges. There was something about the way the kids behaved so freely that made it feel different from being in America. Oratorio e Orecchiette | 41
Part of a man-made river in the park where the kids had a scavenger hunt
A staircase inside the Borromeo gardens
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Of course it’s impossible to talk about Italy without talking about the food. Meals are an event in Italy. At the oratorio I helped set up lunch tables, complete with placemats and silverware. The kids would sit at the tables with their friends and wait, somewhat impatiently, to be served. They had a first course of pasta (choice of tomato or pesto sauce and complete with grated cheese), a second course of meat and vegetable, and a small dessert. The kids would sometimes complain that the food was gross, but it was better than anything I had seen in an American school cafeteria. The ingredients were fresh and prepared well. On the first day the priest in charge even apologized profusely for not having a second course. The food all tasted delicious, but was really made special by the people who sat around the table.
Italy, as beautiful as it is (they call it Bel Paese), is special to me because of the people there.
My host sister and me on the last day of the program
It is these same people that have left a lasting impression on me. Italy, as beautiful as it is (they call it Bel Paese), is special to me because of the people there. I’ll always remember sitting on the couch with Alessia, listening to Ed Sheeran’s new album and translating the lyrics for her. Or playing soccer with little Stefano, who would yell “Grande… Big” after a good play and pinch my cheeks. Among other things, these people and our shared experiences are what I’ll remember most. Travelling abroad is a wonderful opportunity, and connecting with people around the world makes it even better. I am so grateful that I got to experience the sense of community and love in Binzago, and that I get to extend that sense of community and love across the Atlantic. When you have friends in different time zones, the world is not as different or big as it may seem. To my friends in Italy: ci vediamo presto. Il mondo è un posto più bello con tutti voi.
A shot of our bikes leaning up against a tree after a 30 km ride to the park. There were at least a hundred bikes scattered around. Biking is an important part of Italian culture
Lauren McBrearty is from Rocky Point, New York. Her favorite city is Florence, Italy because it combines a rich history with the vitality of a modern city in a way that makes simply wandering the streets feel timeless and romantic. Oratorio e Orecchiette | 43
Guac’s Guide to Cesano To Eat La Supreme This tiny gelateria serves delicious gelato and has the convenience of being located a short walk from the Piazza d’Amicizia (Plaza of Friendship), where there are frequent concerts and other community activities. It is also only a few feet away from Binzago’s WWI monument, which the kids of the neighborhood use as a rendezvous point, so there is always a lively atmosphere right outside. This gelateria is a true hub of the community. Address: Via Conciliazione, 20811 Cesano Maderno MB, Italy Hours: 7:30AM – 11PM (Tues. – Sat.), 7:30AM – 1PM, 2:30 – 11:45PM (Sunday), Closed Monday Guac Rating: For the gelato and in part for the cultural experience. It’s hard to go wrong with gelato in Italy, but their “Bacio” flavor of hazelnut and chocolate was exceptionally delicious.
Pizza Americano It’s regular pizza, but made “American” with the addition of french fries and pieces of hot dog as toppings. I didn’t know what to expect when I ordered it. It’s very strange and quite salty, but it’s a fun thing to try. Guac Rating:
Hamburger Try the Italian take on the American burger, but not at a chain like McDonald’s. I ordered a “hamburger” from a local street vendor and was given salamella, a type of Italian meat, on a roll. Honestly, I didn’t like it very much, but it made for an interesting comparison. Guac Rating:
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To Travel Train The train station is both close by and easy to navigate. The trip from Cesano Maderno to Milan only lasts about twenty minutes. I would highly recommend this mode of transportation if you’re looking to explore beyond the town. Guac Rating:
Bike Biking is one of the fastest ways to get around, especially if you’ve heard the stereotypes about crazy Italian drivers and are worried about driving a car in Italy. Guac Rating:
Walking Although it can be slow to walk, it’s great to take your time in getting to your destination. Exploring is part of the fun! I found that walking allowed me to more quickly orient myself to my surroundings and learn how to navigate the town. Guac Rating:
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AYANA Resorts and Spa Entrance at Dusk with lily ponds and the Padi restaurant.
Bali
Sunset Lover’s Paradise by Akanksha Jain Hidden between the unique rock formations of Jimbaran Bay’s magnificent coastline, and perched 14 metres above the rough waves of the Indian Ocean, Rock Bar Bali is any sunset lover’s dream come true. People travel here from all over the world in hopes of viewing one of nature’s greatest sights.
Lounge area in the reception of Rimba Rock Bar during the day from the inclinator
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Dusk from the Rock Bar
AYANA resort is a world in itself that dives deeper into true Indonesian culture and luxury. Owned by a local family, not only do they make it a point to maintain local culture and authentic Indonesian cuisines, but they also embark on creating an unforgettable experience for all guests. While Bali is well-known for Kuta Beach and the Seminyak area in general, as those are the most popular tourist destinations, Jimbaran Bay, one of its most precious gems, often gets overlooked due to its distant location from these other areas. Secluded at the tip of Bali island, it is a perfect location to overlook the great Indian Ocean whilst still experiencing a true balinese adventure. Rock Bar Bali’s unique location and architecture make it one-of-a-kind: people stand in lines for hours to get in. To reach the bar you must take an inclinator, which allows for a breathtaking bird’s eye view of the 1.3-kilometre coastline of AYANA resort. This architectural wonder was created by minimalist Japanese designer Yasuhiro Koichi. Koichi’s main goal was to emphasise the unique natural formations of the cliff-side rocks. By keeping the design simple, guests are encouraged to focus on the 360-degree view of the horizon and the glistening ocean waves. The actual glass bar was created by Japanese glass artist, Seiki Torige, using 100% recycled glass canes. Additionally, this bar is known to make some of the most unique cocktails, with names like “Rock My World” and “Beer Bomb Sandy”.
You can enjoy these drinks while watching the sun disappear behind the waves. Not only is the sunset magnificent, but when the sun goes down, the stars brighten up the dark sky, revealing a completely different and amazing view. As the sun submerges into the waters in front of your eyes and the waves crash all around you, internationally famous DJs mix their best beats, juxtaposing the untouched beauty of nature with a modern atmosphere. If, like me, you come from a city like Singapore where sunsets are overshadowed by tall skyscrapers, you should make it a point to view a sunset like the ones I saw from the Rock Bar. It was just the most beautiful experience. Watching the sunset, I felt incredibly calm and was able to step back, realise the beauty of the world around us and truly appreciate our planet.
Akanksha Jain is from Singapore. Her favorite city is Amalfi Coast, Italy as it has a perfect blend of natural and architectural beauty whilst still preserving the historical value of the area. Additionally the small community creates a very homey feel even for a tourist. Sunset Lover’s Paradise | 49
Bird’s eye view of Kubo Beach Sunset from the Ocean Pool in AYANA
As the sun submerges into the waters in front of your eyes and the waves crash all around you, internationally famous DJs mix their best beats, juxtaposing the untouched beauty of nature with a modern atmosphere.
Guac’s Guide to Bali
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To Eat Damar Terrace Damar Terrace serves amazing Asian favourites with a unique Balinese twist. Surrounded by terraced lily ponds in the most serene setting, this outdoor restaurant is one to visit. Address: Jl. Karang Mas Sejahtera, Jimbaran, Bali 80364, Indonesia Hours: 11pm -1am Transportation: taxi Guac Rating:
Hidden Gem AYANA Resorts and Spa Hidden away on the tip of Bali island is Ayana resorts and spa. With its huge property, Ayana is a world in itself. 90 hectares of pure luxury perched on the majestic clifftop of Jimbaran Bay. AYANA is the best place to view the sunsets, ocean and private beaches. Just within AYANA there are 19 restaurants and bars including the Rock Bar, a private beach reserved only for AYANA guests, 12 unique swimming pools and a state-of-the-art spa. Address: Jl. Karang Mas Sejahtera, Jimbaran, Bali 80364, Indonesia Guac Rating:
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Drøbak
The Village in the Valley by Christine Relander
Early August winds sway the grain field as the air cools and the day winds down. On the right is a slow-setting sun that shines toward the brightly lit moon on my left. The clouds have drifted to the horizons as if to open the sky. My heart wants to stay in the field but my legs force me forward to finish my run and get back for dinner. Norway is known for its mountains, fjords, and cottages, all of which I experienced during the week I spent at a friend’s summer house. It was a short drive from the town of Drøbak, a seaside establishment with seemingly more boats at port than streets on land. With just over 13 thousand inhabitants, Drøbak used to be the winter harbor of Norway’s capital, Oslo, when harsh winters froze the narrow sea inlet between the two cities. In the town there is a variety of cafés and shops. A local favourite is Guri Malla, an ice cream shop with flavors ranging from the usual chocolate and vanilla to less commonly seen mojito and liquorice. During the summer there is a flea market at the town center, but the immense Christmas shop called Julehuset
(the Christmas House) ensures that Christmas time is never lost, no matter what time of year it is. Drøbak has all the features of a comfortable town feel, with a small cinema, or kino, and tasty handmade baked goods at Håndverksbakeriet. Yet being so close to Oslo, it is possible to take a simple day trip to the capital, a chance to be introduced to the deep history of Norway’s development and its more current cultural evolution. It’s also possible to check off a visit to another country: Sweden’s border is an hour away, ready to invite travelers into one of its largest candy stores. Back at the summer house, it was just my two friends, a “furball”-dog, and me. The house was in a neighborhood area surrounded by kilometers of farmland, the majority of which were grain with the occasional strawberry patch. One of the families had a berry kiosk that supplied our daily strawberries, which were some of the best I’ve had. It was common knowledge that there were snakes in the grass, but that did not deter us from jumping around like children in a ball-pit.
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I’ve been traveling since I was just months old. It is a way of life and I couldn’t imagine not experiencing it. However, over the years I’ve also gotten used to new places being so different that I’ve starting longing for a home. Drøbak was a perfect mixture between old and new - comfortable yet exciting. With summer vacation coming to a close and the habitual lifestyle of college around the corner again, the sunsets and lake views were a perfect “reset button” for the new year.
Christine Relander is from Espoo, Finland. Her favorite city is Zurich because of its freedom and nature.
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Guac’s Guide to Drøbak To Eat Cafe Sjøstjernen Located along the Southern Guest Harbor, Cafe Sjøstjernen celebrates the fresh seafood of the Oslo fjord, with prawns, mussels, and fish & chips among its many Norwegian specialties. The restaurant, overlooking the exquisite view of the Oslo harbor, has become a destination for those looking to match a meal of delicious seafood with a “ferry-like” experience. Address: Badehusgate 27, 1440 Drøbak, Norway Hours: 11AM - 5PM (Sun. - Tues.), 11AM - 10PM (Wed. - Sat.) The restaurant is a minute walk from the hotel along Storgata street and Badehusgata street. Guac Rating:
To Stay Reenskaug Hotel Situated in the heart of Drøbak in the vibrant county of Akershus, the Reenskaug Hotel lies near the breathtaking view of the Oslo fjord. Nested near the crystal blue waters of the fjord, the hotel blends contemporary styles with traditional aesthetics and reflects the characteristically calm and romantic atmosphere of the town. With over 100 years of history, the hotel, although newly renovated, maintains the feel and serenity of the countryside and is a favorite among tourists seeking a relaxing experience away from the chaos of the city. Drøbak, known for its rich cultural environment, is often called the hidden gem of Oslo, and is home to Tregaarden’s Christmas Village and numerous must-see art galleries. Address: Storgata 32, 1440 Drøbak, Norway Opening Hours: 24/7 Guac Rating:
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To See Drøbak Akvarium Oslofjorden Marinbiologiske Senter In Drøbak Akvarium, family and friends can encounter all kinds of aquatic species found in the local area. With an affordable entrance fee, the aquarium is definitely a place to take the time and enjoy learning about Norwegian sea life. After visiting the aquarium, you can also walk along the dock and enjoy the scenic view of Drøbak. Address: Havnegata 4, 1441 Drøbak, Norway Hours: 10 AM–4PM Guac Rating:
Oscarsborg Museum Oscarsborg Museum also houses the Oscarsborg Fortress. You can learn about the sinking of the German warship Blücher, sunk just outside Drøbak on April 9, 1940 during the invasion of Norway. Take a guided tour to learn about the history of WWI and get a rare behind the scenes look into locked rooms as part of the tour! Address: Husvikveien, 1443 Oscarsborg, Norway Hours: 10AM–4PM Guac Rating:
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Sunset over the m
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Bariloche Mountains, Lakes, and Cool Snowflakes by Fanny Chen
Located in the foothills of the Andes and overlooking Nahuel Huapei Lake, San Carlos de Bariloche is a quiet resort city modeled after alpine ski resorts. We arrived in late July, one of the coldest months in Argentina and one of the most popular times for skiing trips to Bariloche. The entire highway, which snakes along the Nahuel Huapei Lake, is lined with resorts semi-hidden by the towering pine trees. We stayed at one of these resorts: it was a group of bungalows completely owned and operated by an elderly native couple. Our bungalow was tastefully decorated and warm, and provided welcome comfort as we had just flown from the warm and humid Iguazu Falls. The best part of our bungalow, however, were the sweeping panoramic windows facing the lake. We would wake up as the sun slowly made its way out behind some trees in the lake’s far corner. As it brightened up the surroundings we were finally able to grasp the beauty of this place. The tall spiky mountains, donning a snowy cap, rose up and around the glistening water.
mountains at the side of a highway
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Left: Nahuel Huapei Lake and surrounding mountains Top: The view of Nahuel Huapei Lake from our bungalow during sunrise
Bariloche is also known for its chocolate. In fact, it’s been dubbed the “Chocolate Capital of Argentina”.
Later in the day, my brother convinced us that we should go out to see the lake instead of enjoying the view from the comfort of our living room couch. We reluctantly agreed and hopped on a short tour around the lake. Can confirm: it was worth it. We took a brief ski lift to the top of a mountain and, despite the freezing wind, we stood outside to take in the view (and yes, also to take plenty of photos). The Nahuel Huapei Lake surrounded us on three fronts, with mountains and islands in the middle of it. The name Nahuel Huapei Lagos (“lake” in Spanish) comes from the native Mapuche language, with “Nahuel” meaning “jaguar” and “Huapei” meaning “island”. There is a centuries-old legend about a giant creature living beneath the waters. The creature is known as “Nahuelito” and has been the subject of many stories, including Arthur Conan Doyle’s novel, The Lost World. While I don’t know about the existence of Nahuelito, I do know that I wouldn’t want to leave either if I were living in (or on) this lake. Bariloche is also known for its chocolate. In fact, it’s been dubbed the “Chocolate Capital of Argentina”. Chocolate is everywhere in this town, from the cafe in the observation deck overlooking the Nahuel Huapei Lake to the little convenient store on the side of the highway. They all had huge varieties
of chocolate products, even if they lacked in other things. The colorfully decorated chocolate shops were ubiquitous in the city, and boutique chocolate stores were the only three shops in the airport. They seemed to have chocolate in any shade and shape. I would highly recommend buying one of the gift packs with an assortment of chocolate. There were chocolates pulled into strings, chocolates filled with liquid chocolate, chocolates fused with other kinds of snacks; basically any chocolate that you could imagine. It is difficult to relive and describe what it was like to see the expansive lake and great mountains. They make you feel infinitesimal and strong at the same time. It is an exceptional piece of nature, so don’t miss it if you ever travel to South America.
Fanny Chen is from Toronto, Canada. Her favorite city is Toronto, Canada because it’s very diverse and welcoming, and has a great blend of urban attractions and suburban living. Mountains, Lakes, and Cool Snowflakes | 63
Guac’s Guide to Bariloche To Stay Alun Bungalows & Apartments A friendly elderly couple runs this set of 10 bungalows sitting right on the side of Nahuel Huapei Lake. Each bungalow has an unhindered panoramic view of the lake and surrounding mountains. The Bungalows are located just outside of downtown Bariloche, so it’s very quiet at night and may be a little difficult to get food or necessities in walking distance. Five minutes walk away, there is a nice steak house called El Patacon that has a very delicious bread basket, good selection of wine, and steak. The Bungalows are well maintained and very clean and homey. They are also well heated which makes it extremely valuable because it can get really cold there at night. Price: $200/night for a bungalow that can house up to 5 people in the popular season. Tips: It may be cheaper to go here during non-winter seasons in Argentina because this place is a popular skiing resort. Guac Rating: The Bungalows themselves are absolutely lovely with the best view, it’s only disadvantage is the somewhat remote location.
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To See Cerro Campanario Take the chairlift up Cerro Campanario and you will be greeted with a stunning 360 degree view of the Nahuel Huapei Lake and surrounding mountains. The observation deck is more than 1000m above ground level and has a cafe and washroom for you to warm up after riding up in the chilly air. This is an absolute must-see and it is one of the most accessible observation decks in Bariloche. It was around a 20 min drive from our bungalow. Price: $220 (Argentine pesos) for everyone over 12 years old $110 (Argentine pesos) for 5-12 year olds Free for children 4 and under Open: 9AM-5:30PM Everyday Guac Rating: One of the most beautiful places I’ve ever seen. This is an experience that you will never forget.
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The Team
Editor in Chief
Managing Editor
Creative Director
Print Director
Head Illustrator
Web Director
Web Developer
Marketing Director
Editor
Print Designer
Editor
Editor
Marketing Analyst
Marketing Analyst
Marketing Analyst
Creative Consultant
Print Designer
Zeyu Hu
Fanny Chen
Adam Gleisner Chelsea Chan
Lauren McBrearty Brandon Smith
Mind Apivessa
Cathy Zhang
Ilayda Samilgil
Tony Li
Ami Kurosaki
Chiara Benitez
Duoer Jia
Yanis Park
Marketing Analyst
Akanksha Jain Writer Writer
Ching Pang
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Writer
Katie Lee
Christine Relander Madison Holden Pia Bocanegra
Eric Lee
Audrey Tirtohadiguno
Xiaoxiang Ma
Special Thanks
All illustrations in this issue were drawn by Eric Lee
Cover picture by Cathy Zhang Overlook of Jamaa el Fna, Marrakech
All pictures used in Guac were taken by the author unless otherwise stated Picture credit page 16-17 by Randy Rambo
Article sources
Page 17: http://www. orientalarchitecture.com/sid/98/ china/luoyang/longmen-grottoes Page 18: http://whc. unesco.org/en/ list/1003
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