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See Gulfscapes Online at Gulfscapes.com or visit us on Facebook® and sign up for our Gulf Coast Tweets®!
contents
spring 2010
f e a t u re s 15
avenue o bed & breakfast An eclectic mix of South Seas treasure in Galveston. Complete with Whale Tail Jacuzzi!
16
bringing up baby A stunning waterfront home on Galveston Bay that has proved it’s strength.
30
eye witness to the storm Sit down and listen as Dr. Gary Hankins describes his adventure during the watery terror that was Hurricane Ike.
36
fly fishing with the experts Bob Shirley explains the art of flies.
40
coastal wildlife retreats We have a lot of protected areas for our wonderfully diverse wildlife. We feature several refuges and let you know what new projects the Federal Stimulus has created.
50
dr. beach goes to australia The good Doctor, who releases a listing of America’s Best Beaches annually, takes a trip Down Under to size up Australia’s southern beaches.
53
mississippi casinos are a good bet There’s a lot more going on in the casinos along the Mississippi coast than just gambling. Find out which ones fit your tastes!
56
finding your voice Meet Kelly McGuire, the Gulf Coast’s own singer and songwriter who spins tales of waterspouts, sailboats and beautiful tropical beaches.
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Above, A view from the master bedroom of our featured home overlooking Galveston Bay. Photos by Craig & Victoria Rogers, assisted by Barbara Hankins and Baby Cover, Barefoot basics. ©iStockphoto.com/Hannes Meier
where the pirates aarrr ...
12 publishers’ letter... See what’s new in this issue
There’s pirate history out there in the Gulf. It’s
28 builder profile... Gulf Coast Custom Homes, Inc., Galveston
just hard to find. Our guide to Gulf Coast piratical.
34 wave energy... Green energy from Gulf waves off Freeport, TX
the history of rum
44 florida weddins along 30A... A visit to the Beaches of South Walton, FL
43 stimulus money... National coastal parks get facelifts
Shiver me timbers, we report on our own Gulf
48 resort/travel/fashion... San Luis Resort and Conference Center
Coast rum distilleries. Yes, we make our own rum! Complete with drink recipes, along with fun facts about rum, our nation’s first drink industry.
74 moby dick’s... Perfect pirate bar in Port Aransas, TX 78 alabama dining... From great cocktails to sizzling shrimp 82 san antonio spotlight... New World Wine and Food Festival in May 2010 88 galveston historical homes tour... Going green with historical restoration
GULFSCAPES.COM SPRING 2010 | 11
Postcard from Paradise Ever wondered what it would be like to ride out a major hurricane on a small island? If so, you’re in luck, because in this issue we talk with Dr. Gary Hankins about his wild ride during Hurricane Ike at his bay front house in Galveston. While houses around him were washed out to sea, Dr. Hankins was holed up in his new house, wondering why in the world he decided to stay. Of course, once you see our photos of the Hankins’ house, you’ll better understand why the good doctor wanted to stay and protect it. It’s one of the prettiest, most detailed houses we’ve ever photographed. Speaking of things that would drive a person to drink, did you know that there is a blossoming rum industry along our Gulf Coast? We’ll get you up to speed on the history of rum and profile the adventurous spirits who are making fine rum in local micro-distilleries. Of course, where there’s rum, there’s pirates. We have both in this issue. They’ve been inseparable since the 1600’s. Find out about our coastal pirate history along with suggestions on where you can live the buccaneer lifestyle today in our Pirate’s Guide to the Gulf Coast. We also feature another Guide, this one a little less frightening than pirates . . . weddings! The Beaches of South Walton in Florida is a hotspot for weddings, with it’s sugary beaches and elegant resorts and communities. Our suggestions for 30A weddings will help you find the right place, the right food, the right photographer. The right spouse is left up to you! If you’re looking for the right place to spend some time, why not try one of the many Nature Preserves along the coast? From south Florida to south Texas, we’re blessed with many wildlife preserves that feature some of the world’s most exotic creatures. From bird watchers to botanists to alligator hunters, our coastal waters offer something for just about everyone. And you know who else has something for everyone? San Antonio, the River Walk City. We love San Antonio and spend quite a bit of time there. We have our favorite spots and we’ll share them with you and give you an overview of the city’s many offerings. We started this letter with a doctor, so we’ll end it with one. One of everyone’s favorite doctors, the ever popular Dr. Beach, aka Dr. Stephen Leatherman. Dr. Beach has a new prescription for us all . . . the beaches of south Australia. Take a trip down under with Dr. Leatherman as he surveys and then recommends his picks of beautiful beaches. Until next issue, enjoy the fine Spring weather!
12 | SPRING 2010 GULFSCAPES.COM
Co-publishers Craig Rogers, left, and Trevor Munt Rogers, begin work on the next issue. Gulfscapes will be featuring the Tampa, Florida area in our next issue. Look at our FACEBOOK page to see pictures from our Spring Training trip to Kissimmee, Florida. Also in our next issue, get ready for the Great American Seafood Cook-Off in New Orleans.
Special Contributor: Jennifer Stewart Kornegay has been writing professionally for over 10 years. A graduate of the University of Alabama, she was most recently the editor of Montgomery Living magazine, the monthly city/lifestyle magazine in Montgomery, Ala., a position she held for five years. Her articles have appeared in Southern Lady magazine, Alabama Journey magazine, Southern Living magazine, TIDE magazine, Stratos magazine and The Montgomery Advertiser to name a few. She lives and writes in Montgomery, Ala. with her husband and her orange cat. Photo by Josh Moates/Kim Box Photography
GULFSCAPES.COM SPRING 2010 | 13
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Co-Publishers Craig and ViCtoria Munt rogers 361-548-6804 •
info@gulfsCapes.CoM
EstablishEd in 2001 FoundEr & Editor - Victoria Munt rogers 361-548-6804 • victoria@gulfscapes.coM PhotograPhy Editor - craig rogers 361-548-6804 • craig@gulfscapes.coM 4.5
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intErn - Katie parry 361-548-6804 • Katie@gulfscapes.coM onlinE Editor - info@gulfscapes.coM www.gulfscapes.coM subscriPtion QuEstions: 361-548-6804 subscribe@gulfscapes.coM gulFscaPEs MagazinE c/o subscription p.o. box 863 port aransas, tx 78373 $5.95 singlE issuE coVEr PricE $16.95 for one year (4 issues) $28 for two years (8 issues) $36 for three years (12 issues) Mail subscription address changes to: gulfscapes, c/o address change, p.o. box 863, port aransas, tx 78373 or e-Mail to change@gulfscapes.coM vol. 9, issue 31, spring 2010 gulfscapes Magazine is published by craig and victoria Munt rogers, p.o. box 863, port aransas, tx 78373. subscription price is $16.95 for a one year subscription in continental united states. unsolicited manuscripts without return postage will not be returned. postMaster, send address changes to address above. disclaiMer: advertisements in this publication do not constitute an offer for sale in states where prohibited or restricted by law. copyright 2001-10 craig and victoria Munt rogers. no part of this publication may be reproduced without written permission from the publishers. usage fees are available upon request by calling 361-548-6804.
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coastal quaint 2323 Avenue O, Galveston, TX • www.avenueo.com (866) 762-2868 • (409) 762-2868 • connie@avenueo.com
Avenue O Bed & Breakfast
ith room names like The South Pacific Room, The Safari Room, and The Rainforest Room ... you just
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know that you’re going to have a good time at the Avenue O Bed & Breakfast in Galveston, Texas. Centrally located in the historic Silk Stocking District just blocks from the beach and minutes from
the Strand, this 1923 Mediterranean style Bed and Breakfast exhibits a comfortable elegance throughout. Originally constructed for Henry Truehart Adriance, a partner in the first chartered realty firm in Galveston, it continued as a private residence until 2002. It was then purchased by Jim and Connie Porter for the purpose of converting it into an island retreat. Prior to moving to Galveston, Jim and Connie were long-time residents of the South Pacific and this influence can be seen throughout the house. The house sits on a third of an acre surrounded by lush tropical foliage, making it an ideal setting for a romantic getaway or just a break from the workaday world. While Avenue O offers the amenities of a large hotel, it maintains the special ambiance and personalized service of a home away from home. From the time you enter this unique and warm Galveston Bed and Breakfast, you will
Top L-R, In the Living Room you can chat with other guests or rummage through a great collection of movies which can be taken back to your room to view. Gulfscapes’ favorite room– The South Pacific. The Rainforest room includes a whale-shaped magical hot tub that changes colors as you relax. Bottom L-R, An adventure awaits you in The Safari Room – watch out for the tiger! Breakfast by Connie - worth the entire trip to Galveston!
experience the true meaning of Island Hospitality. GULFSCAPES.COM SPRING 2010 | 15
l i f e o n G A LV E S T O N B AY
BRINGING up Baby
itting elegantly at the end of a small road on the West End of Galveston Island, overlooking the bay and coastal wetlands, lies the home of Dr. Gary and Barbara Hankins. Or should I say, it is the home they are allowed to live in by Baby, the real owner. Baby is a Labrador Retriever mix who adopted the Hankins while their home was being built. And while the Hankins may have paid for and helped design the home, make no mistake . . . this is Baby’s house. Who has a bed in every room on every floor? Not Gary. Not Barbara. Baby. Just how complete is Baby’s control over the four story bay front home? Just ask the builder how long it took him to build the house. “Long enough for Baby to go from a stray to owning it!”,
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is the deadpan reply from Steven F. Paparcuri, owner of Gulf Coast Custom Homes, Inc. As stray dogs go, you don’t get much luckier than Baby. First, she finds great owners in the Hankins. Gary is the chairman of the Ob/Gyn Department at the University of Texas Medical Branch in Galveston. Barbara is a civil engineer. Both are friendly, kind and crazy about Baby. Then Baby gets to move into a house that features some of the finest quality craftsmanship on the Gulf Coast. And did I mention she had a bed in every room? Speaking of quality craftsmanship, you can’t take a step without noticing some of the unique, upscale details in this 4 bedroom, 5.5 bath custom home. The first floor patio has a tongue
Above, Baby, the real owner, protects her property from seagulls. Opposite, top right, The Hankin’s home is located on the (normally) tranquil waters of Galveston Bay. Bottom right, The third floor curved balcony provides relaxing views of the Bay. Sunsets are an event up here.
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The tall, rounded windows reinforce a sense of place in the third floor living and dining rooms. There’s no doubt that you’re on the water. Flowers by Larry Janzen, The Galveston Flower Company.
and groove Cypress ceiling. And that’s just the outside. Inside, you’re greeted with a ground floor foyer that, when looking up, features a vision of sheer grandeur, viewing up two freestanding staircases, stacked one on top of the other, that soar up 45 feet to a coffered ceiling from which an artistic chandelier titled “Rain” is suspended. This is Mr. Paparcuri’s favorite feature of the house, and is a testament to the highly skilled craftsmen who were, according to Paparcuri, not subject to many of the normal constraints on home builders. “The Hankins are the most wonderful clients,” said Paparcuri, “It was a privilege to do their house because of the quality of those two people. It was really a joy to work with them.” The joy he felt shows in the details. The stairs are attention getters. The railing is custom made wrought iron, with designs of cattails that were chosen by the Hankins to reflect the scenery in the wetlands that are just outside their front door. The steps are made from a light maple, while the faces are made from a contrasting dark Honduran mahogany. Once on the second floor, you enter the den, which also has an adjacent, soaring wine room, with drawers made from wooden wine boxes. Above the fireplace is a flat screen television, which is concealed behind a painting that is raised via remote control when it’s TV time. Spectacular red onyx countertops and matching splashboards adorn the wet bar area, which is flanked by a glass top table supported by a bronze dolphin, seahorse and fish sculpture created by noted Virginia artist Dr. William Turner. Moving up to the third floor, you enter the living room and adjoining dining room. The kitchen is also on this floor. The living room’s most notable feature is a curving wall of GULFSCAPES.COM SPRING 2010 | 19
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Two stories of unbroken spiral staircase makes for a dramatic view. The steps are a light maple. The stair’s face is a dark Honduran mahogany. Top, The chandelier is a glass sculpture entitled, “Rain”. Middle, The stair rails’ cattail design was chosen by the Hankins to reflect their wetlands location. Bottom, “Rain” showers light 45 feet down the main stairwell. The tightly curved, handmade spiral staircase to the fourth floor is visible below the chandelier.
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windows, looking out over the bay, providing a perfect vantage point for sunset viewing. Outside is a balcony that is also curved, giving a onboard ship sensation. Volga Blue Extra granite tops the kitchen counters, and is fascinating with its iridescent, large flecks of vibrant blue color, dancing amid the dark gray and black stone as the light changes. The gorgeous cabinets are made from two woods: the frames are of Honduran crotch mahogany, the panels are of Beeswing Sapia. Hanging above the kitchen counter are three orange hued Murano glass lamps. The third floor also houses the master bedroom and bath. The bedroom ceiling is domed, and was painted with a dark center and light edges, and has a variable light switch for immediate mood control. The master bath has a barrel ceiling of Honduran mahogany, and a chandelier over the bubble tub. The stairs leading up to the fourth floor are a tight spiral. They were entirely handmade on site, according to Mr. Paparcuri. The quality is evident in the sturdy feel and lack of any creaking as you ascend. On the fourth floor is the Hankin’s workout room and home theater. The theater has a remotely operated, descending screen that tucks nicely out of way when not used. Even when the screen is up, the theater still provides entertainment, with windows overlooking the wetlands that showcase pink tinged Roseate Spoonbills, Blue Herons and Peregrin Falcons. From the fourth floor you can see the Hankin’s have a pier extending into the bay. It provides a great fishing spot for Gary and Barbara. It also is popular with local birds, who sometimes cover the entire pier. Until Baby notices. Then she trots out into the mass of birds, triggering an eruption of fleeing wings, until the pier is completely Baby’s. Fortunately, Baby isn’t as possessive of her home as she is her pier. She allows Gary and Barbara to keep her company inside. Lucky dog.
The kitchen counters are Volga Blue Extra granite. The cabinets are Honduran crotch mahogany and Beeswing Sapia. Flowers by Larry Janzen, The Galveston Flower Company.
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Galveston Area Custom Home Builder (Builder of Our Featured Home) Gulf Coast Custom Homes, Inc. (409) 741-9392, Full Designer Service. Two-Year Builder Warranty. AIA Approved. Weather Proofing. 316 Stainless Flashing. Hand Crafted Cabinetry. Home Theater. An Approved Builder of Beachside Village and Beachtown in Galveston, Texas. www.galveston-homes.com, sales1@galveston-homes.com
Galveston Area Realtor Kelly Kelley Broker Associate/CPA CRS, GRI, e-PRO, RSPS, CLHMS, Prudential Gary Greene, Realtors Galveston, Texas, (281) 794-9463, kelly@kellykelley.com, KellyKelley.com
Galveston Area Florist Larry Janzen/The Galveston Flower Company, (409) 765-8597, www.galvestonflowercompany.com 足24 | SPRING 2010 GULFSCAPES.COM
Opposite page left, Slate tiles line a triangular shower. Middle, The wood in this guest bath warms the whole room with its richness. Right, It’s hard to image, but this elegant room is just a guest bath. With mahogany plank ceiling and tub chandelier. Directly left, Every window in the house is finished out with bull-nosed edges, so no sharp corners. Flowers by Larry Janzen, The Galveston Flower Company.
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Gulfscapes’ Picks for Galveston’s Top Food & Wine... Rudy & Paco Restaurant & Bar, 2028 Postofffice St., 409-762-3696 Gaido’s, 3828 Seawall Boulevard, 409-762-9625 The Steakhouse, (Inside the San Luis) 5222 Seawall Blvd., 800-445-0900 Sunflower Bakery & Cafe, 512 14th Street, 409-763-5500 The Spot, 3204 Seawall Blvd., 409-621-5237 Saltwater Grill, 2017 Post Office St., 409-762-3474 DiBella's Italian Restaurant, 1902 31st St., 409-763-9036 Mosquito Cafe, 628 14th St., 409-763-1010 Luigi's Italian Restaurant, 2328 The Strand, 409-763-6500 Fisherman’s Wharf, Pier 22, 409-765-5708 26
The den houses a fireplace, hidden TV (above fireplace), sealife sculpture table base, wine cellar and wet bar. It also has a balcony with a bay view. Flowers by Larry Janzen, The Galveston Flower Company. Right, This unique wine cellar is extremely well stocked. Wine crates impart a old style cellar feel. Bottom, A smart design - using wine crates to make drawers. Next page, Left, The master bath. Honduran mahogany barrel ceiling and tub chandelier. Flowers by Larry Janzen, The Galveston Flower Company. Middle, The wake up view out of the master bedroom. Right, The master bedroom features a hand painted domed ceiling with recessed lighting. Flowers by Larry Janzen, The Galveston Flower Company.
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Builder’s Spotlight: Gulf Coast Custom Homes, Inc. 28 | SPRING 2010 GULFSCAPES.COM
The Hankin’s spectacularly detailed bay front home was built by Gulf Coast Custom Homes, Inc., owned by Steven F. Paparcuri. Mr. Paparcuri has more than 25 years experience in the high-end custom home industry and has earned a reputation second to none. He was chosen as one of the builders for Beachtown, the extravagant Galveston New Urban design, master planned community on the island’s East End. He has been awarded the building contract on some of the community’s most prominent homes. Specifically, Gulf Coast Custom Homes has been selected as builder for a Beachtown home in Village One for a Houston attorney. The home is adjacent to the main dune walkover passage and will become a landmark. It is designed by celebrated architect Milosav Cekic. Mr. Paparcuri has also been selected to build a Beachtown home for a Houston orthopedic surgeon. The surgeon looked to Mr. Paparcuri to execute the new beachfront home
after having Mr. Paparcuri build the surgeon’s bay home in Galveston seven years ago. Repeat business in the high end custom market is the ultimate compliment. Designing the home will be nationally acclaimed architect Michael Imber. The quality of construction is evident in the visible details of Gulf Coast Custom’s homes, and makes them beautiful to behold. The quality of the construction in the non-visible, structural areas, however, are more important than exterior beauty. Mr. Paparcuri builds all of his Beachtown homes to a fortified standard (Business & Home Safety (IBHS) developed “Fortified...for safer living®”), a standard that exceeds all required engineering standards for the State of Texas. It meets Dade County Florida standards, which are
the toughest engineering requirements in the country. The structural components of Mr. Paparcuri’s Galveston homes were tested in the extreme by Hurricane Ike, and, when many other homes failed completely, his did not sustain any major damage. One of his Beachtown homes, the King residence, was featured on ABC, and broadcast in New York’s Times Square shortly after Hurricane Ike, with Mr. and Mrs. King providing a tour through the unscathed living levels of their home. Mr. Paparcuri’s attention to detail and quality make his homes spectacular to photograph. Because of this, one of Gulf Coast Custom Homes, Inc.’s ultra-luxurious Beachtown homes will be featured in an upcoming issue of Gulfscapes. GULFSCAPES.COM SPRING 2010 | 29
SEPT. 10-13, 2008 • GALVESTON, TX
JOURNEY INTO THE STORM When to Tell Your Wife You’re in the Eye of Ike Tropical Storm Ike formed off the Cape Verde Islands on Sept. 1, 2008, at 10 a.m., 3569 miles from Galveston, Texas. It gained hurricane strength on Sept. 3, and made its first landfall in Cuba on Sept. 8. Ike entered the Gulf of Mexico on Sept. 9, and struck Galveston on Sept. 12. It was the largest Atlantic hurricane ever recorded, with a diameter of 900 miles. It was the third most costly hurricane is U.S. history. Dr. Gary Hankins rode out Ike alone, in his home on Galveston’s West End, with no electricity, no water and no help. Why did Dr. Hankins, the Chairman of the Department of Obstetrics and Gynecology at the University of Texas Medical Branch in Galveston, stay through such a colossal storm? Gulfscapes sat down with Dr. Hankins and his wife, Barbara, and asked that question. It took several bottles of 30 | SPRING 2010 GULFSCAPES.COM
wine, but we got the answer. Was it an act of bravado? Not really. An accident? Nope. The answer is more complicated. First, Dr. Hankins didn’t think the storm would be as bad as it was. Second, he’d been through smaller storms and had been able to help minimize storm damage. Third, it was a new house and he and Barbara were very proud of it and he was being protective. And fourth, he wanted to keep looters away. So no dramatic reasons for staying, just protecting his property. While the reasons may not be dramatic, his experience was. Not just for him, but for Barbara, also. You see, Gary didn’t tell Barbara he was staying until the storm was in full force. We’ve chronicled the Hankins’ experiences through Ike. So batten down the hatches and close the storm shutters, we’re in for a blow.
eye witness
Opposite page, Galveston, TX, September 16, 2008, Debris caused by Hurricane Ike is piled up to the sides of the streets severely impacted by Hurricane Ike. (Photo by Jocelyn Augustino/FEMA) Top left, These pilings once supported the Hankins' neighbors house just to the east of their home. Top right, Where this came from is unknowable, as is the story of how it got there. Bottom left, Galveston Island, TX, after Hurricane Ike Sept. 13. (U.S. Air Force photo/Staff Sgt. James L. Harper Jr.) Bottom right, Another view of what’s left of the Hankin’s neighbor’s house to the east. (Photos not credited supplied or taken by Barbara Hankins.)
Wed., Sept. 10, 2008 4 a.m. Ike is 700 miles southeast of Galveston, with winds of 100 mph. The National Hurricane Center (NHC) expects landfall Sat., Sept. 13, near Corpus Christi, 190 miles south of Galveston. Dr. Hankins boards a flight to an medical conference in San Diego, thinking the storm will hit well south of his home. Barbara takes Gary’s mom to a doctor’s appointment in Houston. 4 p.m. Ike is 600 miles southeast of Galveston; winds 100 mph. NHC releases a new update; Ike has turned north toward Galveston. Barbara describes her afternoon, “I’d driven mom to the doctor, Gary had gone to the airport. Everything’s fine. But when we got out of the doctor’s office, we turned on the radio in the car, and oh my gosh, Ike is coming to Galveston. I called Gary. His plane had just taken off.” Barbara heads back home, understandably in a mild panic. She has to secure everything and get Gary’s mom up to their lake house near San Antonio. Barbara put their outdoor furniture in the garage so the wind wouldn’t get it. “I had no thought that the water was going to get up so high and float it out and smash the doors. Gary’s mom, even though she had just gotten out of a cast, insisted on helping me
do that. That night, I convinced her to take an Ambien to help her sleep. I told her we had a lot to do tomorrow and we really needed our sleep. After she went to sleep, I got everything else ready.” Gary discovered Ike had changed course when he landed in California. He booked a flight the next day back to Houston. Thurs., Sept. 11, 2008 8 a.m. Barbara leaves for San Antonio with Gary’s mom and Baby, the family dog. She becomes part of the largest evacuation in Texas history. 10 a.m. Ike is 510 miles southeast of Galveston; winds 100 mph. Galveston’s Mayor declares a mandatory evacuation. Ike becomes the largest Atlantic hurricane on record, 900 miles across. 9 p.m. Ike is 340 miles southeast of Galveston; winds 100 mph. 10 p.m. Gary arrives from San Diego, but he’s not heading to San Antonio. He’s going to his new house. But he doesn’t tell Barbara. Barbara thought Gary was coming to San Antonio to join them. “I packed his underwear, a couple of changes of clothes, because I just assumed he would come.” Gary let her think that. “The first thing I did when my plane landed in Houston
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Hurricane Ike viewed from the International Space Station as it heads towards Galveston, Texas.
was to call Barbara to make sure she and mom and my dog were all OK in San Antonio. Then I called a fellow I knew in the Galveston fire department so I could find out how high the water was, where the blockades were to keep people from going to the West End of the island, and what kind of story I could tell to get past the blockades. I spoke with him and he said, ‘If anything happens to you, your wife will kill me.’ I told him if anything happened to me, my wife will never know, so you’ll be OK!” After he went to the hospital to make sure everything was under control, Gary parked his car on the third floor of a parking garage and called a friend to pick him up. “I talked to my friend Russ and told him I needed him to drive me out to the house. He said, ‘I’m not driving you out there.’ I said ‘Russell, if you don’t drive me I’ll walk. You can be a friend and take me, but I’m going out there no matter.’ He took me. I got here about midnight. It was an erie calm. Just a little bit of a breeze. It was summer and it was fairly typical. You had no idea that anything was about to happen.” Fri., Sept. 12, 2008 4 a.m. Ike is 250 miles from Galveston; winds 105 mph. Gale force winds now reach Galveston Island. Gary gets up early to start tidying up things that Barbara didn’t have time to complete. He begins with his smaller, yellow house next door to their new house, where he and Barbara had lived for several years. It is elevated, but not as much as the new house. 12 p.m. Ike is 136 miles away; winds 105 mph. NHC predicts Ike will be a Category 2 storm, but because of its huge size, it will have a Category 5 storm surge. Gary is staring right into the face of a giant storm. “About noon, the rain started and the water started coming up. Then it rained harder. By about 4:30 p.m., in the lower part of the yard next door, the water was waist deep. There were big hunks of piers floating in. 32 | SPRING 2010 GULFSCAPES.COM
There were telephone poles floating in. There’s fire ant mounds. The ants have an incredible survival ability so they will actually mound on top of each other and float around. There’s other things looking for high ground . . . poisonous snakes. We have cottonmouth moccasins and rattlesnakes. They’re all looking for a place to go. And so are all the things that the snakes eat. Like rats. Everything is trying to survive.” “During this, I’m out pushing all this debris away so it doesn’t bang into the houses. I had already pushed off two 250 gallon propane tanks and one 500 gallon tank that had broken loose. Those are floating bombs. I was out there on the highest part of the property and soon, every time I bent over to pick something up, I was getting pounded by waves, and I was having to lean into the wind in order to stay upright. Then I thought, ‘this is crazy!’, if I get blindsided by something and I go down, there’s nobody else out here.” “And there was one other thing. I didn’t have gloves on and I scraped a huge amount of skin off my knuckles. Being a doctor and understanding what was in that water, that was some cause for concern, too. So I came inside, and by that time the water is four feet deep across the road. There’s no egress. There’s no way I could get out.” 5 p.m. The center of Ike is 98 miles away; winds 110 mph. But hurricane force winds are already beginning to hit Galveston. Gary watches things from upstairs. “We had salvaged a channel marker that had washed up after a storm and made it a yard decoration. It was huge. It was kinda cool because at night it was fluorescent. But then the damn thing floats up into the highest part of the yard, and I see it go under the little yellow house and I was afraid it would tear the floors out. I thought ‘this is really worse than I thought’. I needed to call Barbara and tell her I was at the house. So I called and told her.” She was on the deck of the lake house. “I didn’t take it well,” under-
stated Barbara. “But I get it together and I see his mother and I say, ‘I can’t tell her’. There’s no way because it would upset her so bad. So I go back out on the deck, and there’s all these people there and his mom, and I have the idea I’m not going to tell her. And then I just fall apart. It was very difficult to get through that night. I didn’t sleep.” Gary is starting to feel the gravity of the situation. “The electricity is off. And the city shut off the water in advance of the storm. But I had filled up all the sinks so I’d have water, not realizing that with the barometric pressure changes, the water all gets sucked out of the sinks. Every bit of water I’d put in the tubs and sinks got sucked out.” “As the storm started the wind and waves were coming almost straight out of the east. By the time it got dark, it was coming almost straight out of the north. We were getting hit pretty good and I was again thinking, ‘this is worse than I thought it would be.’ The water was coming up pretty fast, so I go downstairs to the first level entry way and put some of Barbara’s best towels underneath the door. And I put sponges and trash cans down there and my logic was I could soak up the water as it comes in.” 9 p.m. The eye of Ike is 55 miles away; winds near the eye are sustained at 110 mph. Sat., Sept. 13, 2008 1 a.m. Ike’s eye reaches Gary’s house. “The eyewall came over a 1 a.m. It was just quiet. You could hear the gentle laps of water outside, not big waves, gentle. I was in the eyewall for 95 minutes. My logic was that the worst quadrant is the northeast quadrant, and I survived the northeast quadrant. And there’s no water in the house, so I’m golden!” His elation doesn’t last long. 2:35 a.m. Ike’s eye leaves Gary’s house. “As the eye passed, the wind came straight out of the south. And within just a few minutes, water starts to come under the entry way door. The storm shutter is there, and they’re good Anderson doors and there’s three locking mechanisms, but the water starts to seep under. And I’m down there with my towels and my sponges soaking up the water and putting it in the garbage cans, and I keep up with it for at least 90 seconds,” Gary laughs. “Within literally 15 minutes, it wasn’t coming under the bottom very much. My towels had worked. They really slowed that down. But the water was so high, it was spraying through the sides of the door, which I had not accounted for.” Gary watched the water enter from the safety of the second floor. “I had flashlights everywhere, so I could look down and see that the water was at least 4 feet deep on the outside of the door. And then it broke the door in half. It was still on it’s hinges and the waves would hit and then it would slam shut. Then the next wave hits, then it slams shuts. That constant slamming was miserable.” “Then other things started happening. On the third floor, water started leaking in. It was getting on
eye witness the wood so I hauled out some plastic tubs to collect it. Then the commode in the master bath, the damn thing was possessed! It was spraying water out of the bowl. So what do you do when your toilet is literally spitting out of the bowl? I couldn’t begin to figure out why it was doing that. My only thought was to put a towel over it and put the seat down to minimize how much the water sprayed.” Then things got worse. “This is a big house, and it’s well built . . . and it moved! I started out upstairs, but then I moved down to the second floor because of how much movement I was feeling. My idea was that if it started to collapse, I could get outside. I didn’t sleep that night. There were some gusts that hit this house, that if I had to pick a word, I’d say the house ‘shuddered’. There were gusts way above what the sustained winds were. There were pieces of 4 x 8 plywood that I watched out the window, going across the bay like they were a Kleenex. I really did think there was a fair chance I would not survive the night, that the house was gonna come down. I thought I would always be really afraid to die. I truly thought everybody was afraid to die. I thought about all that, and I thought OK, I know there are people I have wronged and I hope they can find forgiveness for me. So I asked for that. And then I thought about some other people I did good by. I don’t know how score is kept but I hoped I’d get some credit for areas where I’d done well.” “The wind was loud. The rain was literally coming across horizontal. The worst noise was once the door broke, the slamming. It was constant. Over and over and over. The other thing I could hear was stuff hitting the house. I could hear a lot of things outside floating into the house.” 6:40 a.m. The worst of the storm had now passed. Gary was still awake. “At first light, I looked out to the west where our neighbors had two houses. I couldn’t see them. I tried to focus thinking I was just tired. Then it hit me. They were gone. Both those houses were completely gone. Nothing left but the pilings. So then I looked down to the east, where lived a man that I admire greatly who taught us a huge amount about living out here. I thought, if there’s a house that would always survive it would be Norman’s house. But Norman’s house . . . nothing but sticks. The night the storm hit, there were 42 houses on this road. At daylight, there were parts of 20 left. And this is the only house that the entire bottom didn’t tear out of.” “The second thing I could see when I looked out to the west, was waves breaking on top of the bannister of a house. And I could also see that with every wave, the entire roofline rippled. I thought the whole house was gonna go. At the time, I couldn’t see it, but 70% of the floor was already gone . . . the west wall was gone, the north wall was detached from the floor. That house came mighty close to disappearing as well. And that house survived Carla and other storms that were a higher category. It actually survived the 1900 storm, but it was located downtown back then. They moved it out here and put it on stilts around the time of Carla. So it was over a hundred years old.” “Later, when I went outside, there were parts of four or five houses scattered all around. There was a 24 or 26 foot boat upside down. Who knows what all came through that night.” There was a lot of cleaning up to do. But first Gary had to survive a lack of water, lots of snakes and . . . looters. “I’m still kind of stunned that this happened, but within 48 hours of the storm there were people coming in by boat. Coming in by boat! They were targeting houses and then leaving. I knew they were looters because I know the people on this road. And whenever I’d spot them, they’d try to duck into the weeds. These were not people who belonged here. They were coming in to loot, to steal. I had a twelve gage shotgun and it was loaded with double ought buck. And I had a knife.” Even with his precautions, at some point during the long, slow days of cleanup and rebuilding, someone made off with all of Barbara’s jewelry. Barbara wasn’t able to get back home until a couple of days later. No one was allowed back on the island for weeks, not even homeowners. Barbara tried driving in, but was turned away by police. She finally got in just like the looters, by boat. In addition to the jewelry, the Hankins lost their outdoor furniture, lawnmowers and most of their landscaping. Water outside the house had gotten up to five feet deep, with waves on top of that. And while the Hankins’ house sustained some damage to the first floor, structurally it held up. Barbara is an engineer and helped oversee the house plans. “The house is overbuilt. My training as an engineer is benefits versus cost. I would say to Gary, do we want to pay this much to do this, and he’d say, spend the damn money. I think the house will sustain a lot of wind. What I don’t know about, is if the water comes up to here.” Here is their den, on the second floor. As we sit there, having this exciting conversation (with really good wine), it’s hard to image water getting up this high. How high is the living room? “Twenty two feet”, said Barbara. The Hankins house was south of Ike’s highest storm surge. That occurred on the Bolivar Peninsula, a mere 15 miles away. It reached twenty feet. What if the storm had come 15 miles further south? Too close for comfort. And finally, the answer to the question that has been constantly in the background, waiting patiently to be asked of Gary: “I’m not staying next time.”
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green waves
Texas Company Bouyed By Wave Energy Federal Stimulus Money Helps Project Stay Afloat A new source of renewable energy is coming to Texas. Wave energy. Long a leader in wind power, Texas has issued its first ever wave energy lease to Renew Blue, Inc., a Texas Corporation. Renew Blue was formed by Minneapolis-based Independent Natural Resources. Inc. to license INRI’s Seadog wave pump to Houston-based Texas Natural Resources, LLC. TNR is building a wave energy project that will convert waves to electricity, then use the electricity to desalinate water. Mark Thomas, CEO of INRI, says TRN will construct a platform to house the Seadog pumps and will locate the platform 1 mile offshore of Freeport, Texas, off the mouth of the Brazos River. The platform will be in 24 feet of water, with the bottom of the platform 40 feet above sea level. The platform will contain 18 Seadog pumps that will generate electricity to power a desalinator, which in turn will create clean drinking water. Thomas is using the desalinization as a marketing tool to show a tangible result from wave energy. The key to the operation, the Seadog pump, is a simple design, which could be the key to making it work in the unforgiving saltwater environment. The Seadog features a bouyancy block. Think of it as a 7 foot wide fishing bobber. The bouyancy block is housed in a cylindrical vertical cage that allows water to contact the block and allows the block to float up and down on the waves. At the top of the block is a piston that, as the block moves downward
Artist rendering of the SeaDog offshore platform which will be place one mile off Freeport, TX. Wave energy will be used to power a water desalinization plant.
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with a wave, pulls water into a pipe, and on upward movement, forces the water through the pipe and up onto the platform, where the water is directed over a water wheel that turns a turbine that produces electricity. The water wheel concept is amazingly similar to the old mills that we’ve seen in paintings, which had huge wooden wheels that were turned by the flowing water of a stream. These modern water wheels, Fitz Overshoot Waterwheels to be exact, are significantly more efficient. The electricity the water wheels create then powers the reverse-osmosis desalinization unit that produces 3000 gallons of fresh water a day. Thomas says the platform will also house a 30,000 gallon water storage tank for the purified water. A biodiesel powered ship will transfer the pure water to shore, where it will fill bottles made from a corn-based plastic. The whole process is structured to be almost completely green, from start to finish. And by creating their own energy, TNR eliminates 40-50% of the cost of desalinization. There will be enough electricity left over to power the platform’s lights. Thomas intends to package the water in 4-packs, and each will contain a USB flash drive with company information. Although the goal of TNR isn’t to get into the water business, the desalinization demonstration is a powerful vehicle to show the viability of the Seadog pump. Why wave power? Thomas says it’s all about the capacity factor. “A coal-powered
The SeaDog pump was displayed outside the Hotel Galvez in Galveston on the Seawall.
electric plant runs about 90% of the time, so its capacity factor is 90%. On the other hand, solar power is available only 30-40% of the time because the sun goes down and there are clouds, so its capacity factor is only 30-40%. Wind is 20-38%. Seadog operates from wave heights of 1 foot to 8 feet, and in the Gulf we have those wave heights 90% of the time. So our capacity factor is 90%.” Electric companies want a steady source of electricity because they don’t have a practical way to store it. Having a high capacity factor makes wave energy a more steady, reliable power source. On Earth Day, April 22, 2010, TNR will officially power up the Seadog platform in Freeport. It will mark the beginning of not only a new business and a new project, but the beginning of the wave energy industry in Texas.
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hook
the
by bob shirley
The best way to a fisherman's heart is through his fly. ~Author Unknown
fishing on the fly
W
hen I think of fly fishing, I see beautiful casts, pristine beaches, rivers, lakes and much more. However, one of the most interesting and pleasing aspects of the sport for me are the lures or flies which imitate live prey species. Above, Bonefish taken with fly. One of life’s great pleasures. (C)iStockphoto.com/John Safanda. Opposite page, Jake makes sure Capt. Steven doesn't make a mistake. Or accidentally drop a dog biscuit. Capt. Steven Utley is a fly fishing consultant for Roy's Bait and Tackle in Corpus Christi, TX.
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fly fishing
Above left, A spool of thread dangles from a fly under construction. The thread is wrapped around the fur and feathers of a fly to hold them on the hook. Above right, The thread is wrapped around the shank of the hook several times to hold the fly components on the hook. Above right, bottom, A hard glue is added to protect the thread from damage. Below, Tools of the fly fishing trade: tweezers, glue, thread, clippers, and fur.
I see shiny silhouettes of shrimp – brown shrimp, grey, snapping, mantis, and pink. Redfish love them, bonefish chase them, permit attack them and tarpon inhale them. Shrimp patterns may be weighted to sink slowly or rapidly, or may be built with foam to buoy them at the surface to make noise and splash when retrieved in front of tarpon. Complete with eyes, waving antenna of sparkling plastic, and with bodies tied to collapse and expand as you retrieve them which gives them lifelike action, they get fish. Similarly, crab patterns, baitfish imitations, and a host of other fly types attempt to imitate natural fish food and are tied by commercial tiers and amateurs alike. I have two friends (PJ & Jim) who loved tying and did it for many years before they ever fished a fly. Tying combines art and science to imitate life. Good tiers usually like to demonstrate, too, which is good news for us. We get to see the creation of a feather and tinsel jewel in real time. Selecting a fly to cast depends on a number of variables and, even in saltwater, we are trying to “match the hatch.” The fly should obviously imitate a known and favorite available food source. It should match the conditions shiny in bright sun light, darker in overcast situations. Also, to some extent, it should match the general bottom color. This last is often overlooked, but is important in fooling a wary target. After all, only well camouflaged crea38 | SPRING 2010 GULFSCAPES.COM
tures matching the surrounding weeds and bottom would be present as the fish forages. A blue crab in the right conditions can be deadly or obviously a fake depending on their surroundings and the local availability of blue crabs as an example. A pink shrimp when none are normally present will likewise send out an alarm signal. Size matters too! Sometimes a bigger fly than the average size of the prey which is normally available in nature triggers aggressive strikes, sometimes not. Likewise, a fast retrieve is good for barracuda, but not bonefish. No retrieve or soft short tugs entice permit to bite crab flies. Remember, we are imitating prey species with the fly so our retrieve and size selection should mirror naturally occurring flight response and prey shapes. A few years ago I fished Los Roques National Park - an atoll off the coast of Venezuela. It was there that I learned just how many of my preconceived ideas and helpful tips from my buddies about fly selection were not necessarily true. I was targeting bonefish and was throwing bonefish bitters, Gotchas, Crazy Charlies, and other “standard” bonefish getters. The fish were big (averaging 4-6 pounds), were not leader or fly shy because of restrictive fishing rules limiting the number of anglers per day. I believe only twenty anglers per day get to fish the three hundred islands and hundreds of square miles of flats there. I know I was casting to fish which had never even seen a fly before and I was doing well, but not spectacularly as I had hoped. Then I talked to another American who happened to be there hanging around and waiting for a guiding job. I told him about what I was experiencing and, as his grin deepened and his head nodded, he said “the bonefish here key on the minnows.” He showed me some of his hand made Gummy Minnows in various sizes and colors. I asked if I could buy a few. And that’s how I learned he was a hard man to do business with. What could I do, though? We were eighty miles off the coast of Venezuela, and an eight hour flight from a fly shop in Dallas. He could name his price. And did! Sure enough, those bones loved the minnows! Gummy minnows, Clouser minnows, any minnow imitation would take fish. As an added bonus, the juvenile tarpon liked minnows, too. In a pea soup lagoon, tarpon from 10 to 25 pounds just hammered large Gummies, blind cast as far as you could throw them onto the soup. Leaping repeatedly, the hooked tarpon’s gill plates rattling; bow to the leaping fish - tarpon on a fly! I almost forgot to mention that the Jacks (Blue runners) liked those Gummies too. Everything there eats the minnows. I mean everything – one afternoon upon returning from a great day of fishing, the cook served fried minnows as an appetizer. They were great! I have absolutely no idea what species I was eating. Might have been anything – I was a human bonefish. The point is, if logic and perception don’t work, ask a local, and then pay the price.
Top, Weedless Shrimp. The eyes and antenna are easily recognizable to sport-fish. Middle, Shamrock Popper. The front is concave to produce a splashing noise when jerked. Bottom, Capt. Steven's DT Special features a Palmerized hackle on the body, which allows the body to expand when still, but contract when retrieved through the water.
Coming up in our next issue: Fishing Kayaks, Great Gear, 2010 Summer Fishing Tournament Wrap-up, Fishing Resorts and Fishing Skiffs GULFSCAPES.COM SPRING 2010 | 39
wild life
Mother Nature’s Safe Havens working to keep the gulf coast’s remaining wild places wild, nature preserves and refuges make for a great escape from more “ordinary” coastal activities.
rom south florida to the texas/Mexico border, the gulf coast is teeming with life. under the ocean, on the beaches, in the salt marshes and everywhere in between, species representing every animal kingdom and countless plants are abundant. in an effort to ensure this bio-diversity is around for years to come, wildlife refuges and nature preserves have been established across the gulf coast region. while they share a common goal—conserve the resident flora and fauna and provide a platform for conservation education—they are as unique as their inhabitants. and just because the emphasis is on protecting Mother nature, that doesn’t mean we humans aren’t welcome. Most of these areas offer a bounty of outdoor activities for individuals or entire families. By Jennifer Kornegay
Opposite page, Maritime forest habitat on Sand Bayou Unit. Left, An ocelot at the Laguna Atascosa Wildlife Refuge in Texas. Middle, Gulf Fritillary and Monarch butterflies along Little Lagoon in Alabama. Right, A Yellow Warbler in Bon Secour. Photos courtesy of the USFWS.
MISSISSIPPI Grand Bay National Estuarine Research Reserve In an area designated by the Nature Conservancy as one of “The Last Great Places” in America, The Grand Bay National Estuarine Research Reserve in coastal Mississippi’s Jackson County (made up of the Grand Bay National Wildlife Refuge in Mississippi and Alabama and the Grand Bay Savanna Coastal Preserve) protects nearly 18,000 acres of marine environment. The Reserve celebrated its 10th anniversary in December 2009, and its success is the result of collaboration on a grand scale. Established in 1999, the Reserve is managed by a local, state and federal partnership that includes the Mississippi Department of Marine Resources, the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration, the Mississippi Secretary of State’s Office, Mississippi State University, The Nature Conservancy, the United States Fish and Wildlife Service and the University of Southern Mississippi. Within the Reserve, you’ll find rich coastal wetland habitats, some that are unique to the area. Places like pine savannas, bays, maritime forests and salt marshes support many critical species like speckled trout, sea turtles as well as oysters and brown shrimp, which are important to the area’s commercial fishing industry. The Reserve’s manager, Dave Ruple, explained the importance of keeping these areas intact and undisturbed. “It is crucial that we protect places like Grand Bay because of the continued pressures on resources elsewhere,” he said. “As time goes on, protected areas like this will become more and more important, and essentially be our green spaces,” he said. But aside from their overall ecological significance, places like Grand Bay serve a simpler purpose—They speak to our souls. The Reserve is open all year and encourages exploration. Visitors to Grand Bay can expect a wealth of interesting experiences, the kind that wash away the stresses of our everyday lives. According to Ruple, “The Reserve offers many opportunities to observe and enjoy our coastal resources, things like the wide variety of wildflowers, motor boating, kayaking and saltwater fishing.” Now Grand Bay has even more to offer its guests. In December 2009, the new Grand Bay Coastal Resources Center opened. The facility is the headquarters for the Reserve’s staff and also houses an interpretive area and laboratories. “It is one of the greenest buildings in the state of Mississippi and demonstrates the Reserve’s commitment to sustainability. Our interpretative area is open to the public Tuesday through Saturday 9 a.m. to 3 p.m.”
LOUISIANA America’s WETLAND Birding Trail Whether you’re a hardcore birder or just enjoy a nice outdoor excursion, a hike along some or all of America’s WETLAND Birding Trail on Louisiana’s Gulf Coast is one you’ll definitely want to add to your itinerary. The paths link with other birding trails in Mississippi and Texas, but in Louisiana, you’ll find four trails, each offering a distinct look at this special place and promising some serious birdwatching opportunities. The land now dubbed “America’s WETLAND” is comprised of one of the largest and most productive expanses of coastal wetland in the country. The trails traverse land contained in numerous state parks, state historic sites, state preservation areas, National Wildlife Refuges, wildlife management areas and other natural spots throughout the state. Since the 1930s, Louisiana has lost 1,900 square miles of land. Currently, Louisiana has 30 percent of the total coastal marsh and accounts for 90 percent of the coastal marsh loss in the lower 48 states. Commercial and recreational fishing and other activities centered around the wetlands have a massive positive economic impact on the state, a scenario American’s WETLAND managing director Val Marmillion explained in more detail. “Approximately 480,000 used the America’s WETLAND Birding trails in 2008, and Louisiana expects to generate approximately $30 million in direct and indirect economic impact from bird and wildlife watchers annually,” he said. “The importance of preserving America’s WETLAND goes beyond its status as an area of world ecological significance and as America’s largest wintering ground for waterfowl and songbirds. The wetlands are essential in protecting over 2 million citizens from damaging hurricanes, home to one of America’s most remarkable cultures, and strategically important to the national economy and domestic energy security.” In the face of these facts, Louisiana is working tirelessly to maintain the integrity of these protected areas, launching a massive public awareness campaign with the America’s Wetland Foundation to educate citizens on their value. Find out how you can support this cause by visiting americaswetland.com. ALABAMA Bon Secour National Wildlife Refuge Walk one of the nature trails at Bon Secour Wildlife Refuge in Alabama, and it’s like taking a step back in time. These protected lands in and around Gulf Shores boast a unique feature—the last intact dune ecosystem in the state. “When you see these dunes,
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White Pelicans and One Brown Pelican at Little Dauphin Island. Little Dauphin Island is located off the northeastern shore of the main island and can be birded from Dauphin Island. To bird this area turn left onto Bienville at the 3-way stop. Traveling east, take a left onto Albright before you get to the ferry landing. At the end of Albright, take a left on Barcelona. Park anywhere off the road being careful not to block any driveways and do not walk onto personal property. Photo by USFWS.
you’re looking at remnants of what the entire Alabama Gulf Coast used to look like eons ago,” said Jereme Phillips, refuge manager at Bon Secour. Part of the network of national wildlife refuges that is 545 strong, Bon Secour contains 7,000 acres of wildlife habitat for migratory birds, nesting sea turtles and the endangered Alabama beach mouse. While it is one of the smaller National Wildlife Refuges, it is no less essential. As a last bastion for some of the species it protects, the name Bon Secour, meaning “safe harbor” in French, is certainly fitting. Phillips outlined how vital this “safe harbor” truly is, particularly for some migratory birds. “It is so important that this habitat be protected,” he said. “We have a spectacular migration in the spring, and we have really large number of bird ‘fallouts.’ That’s when birds, after traveling the long distance across the Gulf, will literally fall out of the sky. They’re exhausted, but they can rest here.” Bon Secour is a bird-watchers’ paradise, with more than 370 different species flying in and out during the migratory season, including several species of hummingbirds. “In the winter there is not as much diversity, but there are a lot of birds, including several warbler species and yellow-bellied sap suckers,” said Philips. “But during migration, we often get some very rare species, cerulean warblers for example. There are also peregrine falcons and bald eagles around the lagoon year round.” But you can also observe loggerhead and Kemp’s Ridley sea turtles as well as red and gray foxes, coyotes and armadillos. And you can discover all Bon Secour has to offer on its well-maintained trails. “There’s something for everyone at Bon Secour,” Phillips said. “Our trails make for a great nature walk amid beautiful landscapes. You’ll trek through maritime forest on your way to huge 30foot dunes before you reach the Gulf.” If you hike at dawn or dusk, you have good chance of getting lucky and spotting a bobcat or a fox. “The best times to visit are in the spring and fall, even winter is
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nice,” Phillips said. “The dead heat of summer is not the best time for birding; that’s when we have our lowest bird population. In fall, we have the monarch butterfly migration. That peaks in October.” And according to Philips, the one refuge resident you probably don’t want to meet on the trail is still the one most people would like to see. “Most folks want to see alligators, and they are actually most visible not on a trail, but on Mobile Street, the road that goes down to the beach.” That way you can get a look from the safety of your car. FLORIDA J. N. “Ding” Darling National Wildlife Refuge Named after a famous political cartoonist, The J. N. “Ding” Darling National Wildlife Refuge provides sanctuary for an abundance of migratory birds—over 220 species depend on the refuge for safe nesting and roosting locations. Located on Sanibel Island, it is part of the largest undeveloped mangrove ecosystem in the United States. Covering nearly half of the Island, the refuge is 6,400 acres of mangrove forest, submerged seagrass beds, cordgrass marshes and West Indian hardwood hammocks that shelter and support roseate spoonbills, white pelicans, ospreys and ibis, to name a few of its more famous feathered inhabitants. Raccoons, alligators and otters can also be seen, and the best way to catch your glimpse is to bike, walk or drive the main thoroughfare on the refuge, Wildlife Drive. You can also catch a ride on an open-air tram and benefit from the expertise and eagle eye of the naturalist on board. There are a few walking trails too or you can choose to take to the water in a kayak or canoe. TEXAS Laguna Atascosa National Wildlife Refuge Thanks to its unique mix of temperate, subtropical, coastal and desert habitats, extreme south Texas is home to an amazing group of plants and animals, some found no where else. Here, thick patches of prickly brush and clay dunes called “lomas” dominate the
landscape of thorn forest, wetlands, coastal prairies and beaches. Today, almost 95 percent of this original brush habitat has been cleared, leaving local wildlife very little space and making the remaining 5 percent crucial to their survival. Laguna Atascosa National Wildlife Refuge is diligently protecting the little that is left. “The lower four counties of Texas are some of the most biologically diverse areas in the country,” said Nancy Brown, the public outreach specialist for the South Texas Refuge Complex, which includes Laguna Atascosa NWR. “We have 20 federally listed endangered species.” One of those species is the ocelot, a reclusive, medium-sized wild cat with a golden and black dappled coat. “Laguna Atascosa NWR has one of the last two known breeding populations of ocelots,” Brown said. “We center a lot of our management around the them, but if we get it right for them, it will be great for everything else here.” “Everything else” includes 42 mammal, 33 reptile and 10 amphibian species as well as numerous fish and invertebrates. Laguna Atascosa isn’t content to just safeguard the land within its borders either. “We aren’t just protecting the lands we manage; we’re always working with private land owners to preserve habitat on their land too,” Brown said. And out of the 545 NWRs in America, Laguna Atascosa ranks No. 1 for bird variety. “You can see more bird species here than any other NWR, over 413,” Brown said. COMING SOON … East End Lagoon Park and Nature Preserve The City of Galveston, Texas, is working to turn 685 acres of land at the east end of Galveston Island into a sustainable, natural recreational park and nature preserve. The purpose of the preserve will be to make Galveston’s citizens more aware of the natural resources and wildlife all around them. The vision includes trails and an interpretive center. The Galveston Island Nature Tourism Council, a community-based volunteer organization, has partnered with the city to bring the vision to life, and seems to be right on track. A master plan is scheduled to be complete by mid-2010.
Laguna Atascosa NWR Bahia Grande. The channel in the middle is where the new ARRA-funded bridge will span.
stimulus Funds to be used to upgrade gulf coast Wildlife areas the official name is the american recovery and reinvestment act (arra), but you and i know it by its common name; the stimulus act. not to be confused with the tarp, better know as the wall street bailout. the stimulus act was washington’s attempt to inject money into the economy to get us out of this cotton-pickin’ recession. while much has been said about what has and hasn’t occurred by our ever-so-divided congress, we at gulfscapes were able to find out where at least some of the money went, and how it was spent. the good folks at the u.s. fish and wildlife service were kind enough to point us to several gulf coastal projects that have benefited from stimulus money. overall, the department of the interior, fish and wildlife’s parent department, got $3 billion in stimulus money. clay harris of fish and wildlife says the money distributed to them, $280 million, has been put to use to repair and upgrade facilities in national wildlife refuges and other natural areas. “in my district (which includes texas), money has been appropriated to build two needed bridges and to install solar electric arrays in the laguna atascosa national wildlife refuge near brownsville. the recovery act money will also be used to replace 84,000 feet of barbed-wire fence in the lower rio grande valley national wildlife refuge near alamo, and to reclaim 160 acres of lost salt marsh at indian point salt Marsh park in corpus christi. we’ll also be able to build a new visitor center and administration office near houston for the texas chenier plain national wildlife refuge complex and the anahuac national wildlife refuge, whose old facility was destroyed by hurricane ike.” the following is a list of some of the other gulf coast projects that were created or boosted by stimulus funds: rehabilitation of sargent road at san bernard national wildlife refuge near brazoria, tx; building and installing a new set of interactive exhibits for the visitors center at the big branch Marsh national wildlife refuge in lacombe, la; repairing a popular public hiking trail and improve safety and energy efficiency at bon secour national wildlife refuge south of Mobile, al; restoring the dwindling longleaf pine ecosystem in alabama; restoring and enhancing portions of topsail hill preserve state park in santa rosa beach, fl and tarkiln bayou preserve state park in pensacola, fl; installing a newly modified boat pier to allow handicapped persons easier access to saltwater fishing in apalachee bay at st. Marks national wildlife refuge, st. Marks, fl; replacing and repairing dozens of boundary, road, and directional signs at lower suwannee national wildlife refuge near chiefland, fl; repairing whooping crane facilities, boardwalks, fencing and dock area in chassahowitzka national wildlife refuge near st. petersburg, fl; restoring the south florida marsh and mangrove swamp in the smokehouse bay preserve, near bokeelia, fl, on the eastern side of pine island; and cutting down invading cabbage palms in florida panther national wildlife refuge, located near naples, fl.
By Jennifer Kornegay
FLORIDA WEDDINGS
the beaches of south Walton
beach weddings
F
ifteen coastal communities occupy the stretch of pristine white sand beaches between Destin and Panama City, Fla. Known collectively as the Beaches of South Walton, each enclave is unique, yet they share a common thread. Visit any or all of them and you may
notice that the sun seems to shine brighter, the breezes blow cooler and worries roll out with the tide. With natural beauty and tranquil vibes in abundance, The Beaches of South Walton have become favorite destinations for couples looking to make their wedding day memorable. If matrimony is in your immediate future, study this list of Gulfscapes’ picks for the perfect places to tie the knot in northwest Florida. savor the sunset santa rosa golf and beach club– if your vision of nuptial bliss includes exchanging vows in the colorful orangey-pink glow of a seaside sunset, the santa rosa golf and beach club is for you. on the pool terrace overlooking the ocean, countless couples have wed while watching the sun sink slowly into the water. the beach club can also meet your other wedding needs with a wide range of complete and customized banquet services for rehearsal dinners and receptions. 4801 W. hwy 30-a, santa rosa beach, Fl laidbacK & lovely bentley’s on the bay– let the calm bay water gently lapping the shoreline lull you and your spouse-to-be into serenity at bentley’s on the bay. sitting alongside choctawhatchee bay, bentley’s is the spot for a relaxed wedding that’s all about family and good friends. say “i do” under an old willow tree, and then, after sealing the deal with a kiss, let loose and enjoy music and dancing by moonlight with your guests on bentley’s 3,600-square-foot deck facing the water. you can also choose from two lawns, the bay’s beach area, or bentley’s private gulf-front location in grayton beach. optional indoor facil-
ities are available in case of inclement weather. 24200 hWy 331 south, santa rosa beach, Fl a historic happening Eden gardens state Park– a wedding amid the towering moss-covered oaks, vibrant camellias and charm of the old south found at eden gardens state park is always an affair to remember. a white-columned mansion, built in 1895, graces the park’s 115 acres of lawns and well-maintained gardens, which include a reflection pool. the house has been fully restored and is furnished with period antiques. harkening back to florida’s past, eden gardens provides a beautiful, stately backdrop for a ceremony or reception. county road 395, Point Washington, Fl elegant & at ease Watercolor inn & resort– the fresh, contemporary look of the watercolor inn complements its natural surroundings in elegant fashion. it’s simple luxury at its best. but the real draw here is the spectacular service. the expert staff at watercolor works to fulfill your every wedding wish, making your day truly
opposite page, watercolor inn & resort. top left and far right, at rosemary beach, the community’s town hall provides an air-conditioned and weather-proof ceremony plan. top middle, Known for spectacular service, the expert staff at watercolor inn & resort works to fulfill your every wedding wish. bottom right, “the lawn” in seagrove. this gulf-front grassland is 110 feet by 60 feet, and has been lit and manicured to perfection.
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yours. site options abound at watercolor and include locations overlooking the gulf and spots among the verdant landscapes of watercolor’s gardens. wedding services available include catering, wedding cake design, floral design, transportation, entertainment coordination. 34 goldenrod circle, santa rosa beach, Fl revel in roMance sunQuest cruises, sandestin– start “happily ever after” with a romantic twist and surround your wedding with 360-degree ocean views onboard the yacht “solaris” operated by sunQuest cruises. with three decks, including a completely open-air deck on top and two climate-controlled dining areas that can accommodate up to 150 guests, a sail on “solaris” is a unique way to get hitched. you can choose to hold both your ceremony and reception at sea, or just the reception. docked at baytowne Marina in sandestin, the “solaris” also offers onsite catering with a full-service galley and bar as well as a private bridal dressing suite. www.sunquestcruises.com beach bride hilton sandestin beach golf resort & spa – Many brides choose a coastal locale with a singular mission in mind: being pronounced man and wife while standing barefoot in the sand, mere feet away from the spray of the surf. the beaches of south walton have pristine sand aplenty, grains ground so fine they’re soft, and so dazzling white, they sparkle in the sun. and all south walton beaches have been certified blue wave beaches by the blue wave campaign, america's first environmental certification program for beaches. with six miles of private blue wave beach, hilton sandestin beach golf resort & spa is a favorite for weddings. the property also boasts spacious
guest rooms, beautiful ballrooms and full service amenities. 4000 sandestin blvd, destin, Fl seaside– the beach at seaside has also beckoned many a bride. the area’s rows of bright hued cottages add a quaint ambiance to the seashore, and seaside’s event planners have both the knowledge and the friendly attitude to take the stress out of wedding preparations. hwy 30-a, seaside, Fl “the lawn”– if feeling the sand between your toes is taking a beach wedding a tad to far for you, check out the “the lawn” in seagrove. this gulffront grassland is 110 feet by 60 feet, and has been lit and manicured to perfection. two homes, available for rent, sit adjacent to “the lawn,” one with 10 bedrooms and one with six. both have heated swimming pools too. 4240 E. hwy 30-a, seagrove beach, Fl say “i do” in style inn by the sea– tucked among the cottages in seaside, the inn by the sea offers a cozy patch of paradise with a punch of style. with only nine rooms, what the inn lacks in size it makes up for in panache. each room and the inn’s common areas are decorated to reflect the designs of vera bradley. for the few who may not know, vera bradley is an internationally known company specializing in colorful and intricately patterned handbags and luggage. the inn provides a more intimate wedding experience with the bonus of refreshing, comfortable décor. seaside, Fl Keep tradition alive seaside chapel– bring the fairytale to life with a traditional church ceremony in the seaside chapel. at the northernmost point of the seaside community,
top left, watercolor inn & resort. top right, eden gardens park has 115 acres of lawns and well maintained gardens. bottom left, at the inn by the sea each room and its common areas are decorated to reflect the designs of vera bradley. bottom middle, Bentley by the Sea. Bottom right, Seagrove Lawn. 46 | SPRING 2010 GULFSCAPES.COM
beach weddings
above, with six miles of private blue wave beach, hilton sandestin beach golf resort & spa is a favorite for weddings. the picturesque chapel is a simple board and batten structure, with a 68-foot bell tower and heart pine floors. a walk down its aisle will reveal elements of the house of worship’s coastal setting, as the clean scent of salt air can be still be detected even within the chapel’s white-washed walls. and you can take advantage of seaside’s beautiful beach or large pavillion for a reception as well as its trusted wedding planners. hwy 30-a, seaside, Fl MaKe yourself at hoMe a highlands house b&b– if you’ve ever dreamed of getting married at your own house, a highlands house b&b can make it a reality—at least part of it. a highlands house has the beachside locale your abode probably lacks, but it exudes a homey feeling that’s warm and welcoming. oh and in case your house isn’t an immaculate two-story antebellum with whimsical décor, a highlands house is all this too. and in addition to the beach right out the door, several coastal dune lakes, a geographical feature unique to the beaches of south walton, are nearby. 4193 W. hwy 30-a, santa rosa beach, Fl scenic sophistication Weatherall Fine arts gallery– add some culture and flair to your wedding by holding it at weatherall fine arts gallery. this 900-square foot wide-open space in santa rosa beach appeals to brides with a modern aesthetic. every wall is covered in original artwork accented with gallery lighting that creates a sophisticated scene. 3730 scenic highway 30-a, santa rosa beach, Fl it’s only natural rosemary beach– have it all at rosemary beach. enjoy the air-conditioning and weather-proof plan of a ceremony in the community’s town hall, and use the beach, one of the lush lawns or the center courtyard to incorporate some of the great outdoors into your day. the blend of architectural styles and the neutral, natural colors of rosemary beach’s structures marry man and nature easily. your union at rosemary can be just as harmonious. hwy 30-a, rosemary beach, Fl
Left, Weatherall Art Gallery offers brides a 900-square foot wideopen space in santa rosa beach. right, chapel at inn by the sea.
Beaches of South Walton Wedding Service Guide Planning
Florida Destination Beach Wedding, 850-642-1010, beachvows@gmail.com, www.floridadestinationbeachwedding.com
Photography
Michelle Castle Photography, Michelle "Shelley" Castle, 850-259-9687 www.MichelleCastlePhotography.com, shelleycastle@cox.net Mari's Paradise Images, Mari Darr-Welch, 850-314-7868 www.destinweddingphotographer.com, mari@destinweddingphotographer.com Sonja Revells Photography, 850-960-2224, www.sonjarevellsphotography.com Duane Miller, www.destinbeachbrides.com, destinbeachbrides@gmail.com, 850-642-1010 (Minister and Photographer packages available.)
Restaurant
Bistro Bijoux, Owners: Robert and Leslie Bulgarella. Chef: Jack McGuckin. www.bistrobijouxdestin.com, rpcorban@gmail.com, 850-622-0760
Catering
Emerald Coast Catering, Inc., Gary Serafin, 3906 Hwy 98 W, Ste 40 Santa Rosa Beach, FL 32459, 850.622.6270, info@cater1.com
resort travel GALVESTON LUXURY: THE SAN LUIS RESORT, SPA & CONFERENCE CENTER Built atop the remaining walls of century old Fort Crockett, the 16-story San Luis Resort, Spa & Conference Center offers 250 luxurious guestrooms and a 40,000 sq. ft. IACC conference center with magnificent views of the Gulf of Mexico. The AAA Four Diamond rated resort hotel offers the finest in award-winning dining, overnight accommodations and first-class personalized and professional service. Executive resort chef Brian Robertson brings 18 plus years of professional kitchen experience to the Resort. Having worked for Landry’s restaurants with The Events Company most recently, Chef Robertson has prepared flawless meals for foreign dignitaries, celebrities, U.S. Presidents, computer moguls and other VIPs. The Resort’s featured restaurant, The Steakhouse, was awarded the number one spot on the prestigious Tom Horan’s 2010 Texas’ Top Ten list of best steakhouses in Texas. For a relaxing, decadent dining experience, the Steakhouse features an innovative, Gulf Coast-inspired menu, top-notch service and now has a new look to match.Under the direction of Jon Paul, Steakhouse general manager from the finest Houston area dining destinations, The Steakhouse showcases a sophisticated, cosmopolitan setting. Its companion, The Bar, also has a hot new look featuring upscale décor, seating and a bevy of flats screens. For a taste of the nightlife, The San Luis’ H2o ultra lounge continues to set the standard for an upscale evening with a chic
concept inspired by the clubs that have made LA and South Beach some of the hottest tourist destinations in the country. Guests mix and mingle aside the roaring outdoor fire pit accented by stunning views of the Gulf and access to the finest selection of signature vintages by the glass and an extensive tropical martini menu. H2o’s Pear Saketini and selection of Japanese beers and sake couple nicely with lavish choices from the open-air sushi kitchen. The lounge’s swim-up bar and alluring private poolside cabanas reserved for overnight guests imply ultimate relaxation with residential allure and tableside food and beverage service of fresh fruit and bottled water. For privacy and comfort, cabanas are complete with overstuffed lounge chairs and state-of-the-art personal flat screen TVs. The San Luis also recently unveiled the elite “Club Ten”, after completely modernizing and revamping the 10th floor rooms. Each of the 21 rooms features custom-designed furniture and fixtures which produce a sleek and stylish residential environment. Club Ten provides guests with a dazzling array of chic offerings,
Fabulous Fashions for Waterfront Get-A-Ways
carve designs swimsuit, rincon rouched tankini top, color is cinder hibiscus $48 (spf 50+), rincon rouch bottom color-aqua $38 (spf 50+) (women’s sizes small- xl)
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white top by Merrell apparel ophelia long sleeve top (undyed) upf 30 (small-xl), shorts by island short, color is cinder $52. (sizes 4-14)
horny toad Mali dress in white (sml-xl) $68,simms superlight long sleeve shirt in lime (sml-xl) $99, columbia sand and sea large tote in light lime, also available in brown and small. shoes by olukai “amo” in pale fern women’s whole sizes 6-10 (great on the boat and in the water, comes from their “Makai” collection which means “to the ocean” great for around the water and beach
carve designs swimsuit, palm beach full piece color-palmilla (sizes sml-xl) $68.00
fashions available at seaworthy Marine supply in rockport, tx.
resort travel Opposite page, Bathroom in a Gold Suite. Top, The San Luis recently unveiled the elite “Club Ten”, after completely modernizing and revamping the 10th floor rooms. Each of the 21 rooms features custom-designed furniture and fixtures which produce a sleek and stylish residential environment. Bottom, The San Luis’ H2o ultra lounge includes a swim-up bar.
services and VIP amenities. Some of the VIP services include exclusive key card access to the 10th floor, VIP check-in, and complimentary champagne upon arrival. Top shelf pampering at Spa San Luis offers the region’s most luxurious spa treatments from an array of massages, body gommages and hydrotherapies to a complete fitness center, boutique and full service salon. Make-up artistry, skin care, coiffures, natural nail care and nail enhancements are also on the menu. For families, The Treasure Island Kid’s Club features scheduled supervised activities for children ages four through 12. For families with an appetite, The San Luis Resort includes the nationally acclaimed Landry’s Seafood House, the 24-hr International House of Pancakes restaurant and The Rainforest Cafe. The Rainforest Cafe Galveston Island serves up a feast for all the senses. The menu features creative cuisine inspired by the flavors of Mexico, the Caribbean and Asia. Visitors to the Rainforest Cafe will also enjoy the Rainforest Cafe River Adventure Ride, traveling the rain forests of the world in a six-person raft that takes them to the Amazon, the Congo and Borneo in Asia. The San Luis Resort, Spa & Conference Center is located at 53rd and Seawall Blvd. For more information, go online to www.sanluisresort.com or call 800 445-0090.
turquoise, black & teal toned 4 strand necklace is handcrafted from glass, acrylic & howlite. necklace is 17-21” adjustable with 4” chain. set includes a necklace and matching earring. all trisha waldron designs are handcrafted from a variety of natural materials.
scarf/swimsuit cover by fashion fuse $11 available in variety of colors and styles GULFSCAPES.COM SPRING 2010 | 49
beach review
Exotic Destinations: Dr. Beach reports from Australia is world-renowned for its beaches, from Bondi Beach in Sydney to Surfers Paradise Beach in Queensland. Being an island nearly the size of the continental United States, there are so many beaches to explore—more than 11,000 on the mainland alone! My three-week trip there last spring (October 2009) allowed me to experience just some of the great beaches in Western Australia, South Australia and New South Wales. The Perth area beaches in Western Australia are bathed by the warm waters of the Indian Ocean with a dry, sunny Mediterranean climate. Offshore islands and rock reefs help knock down the surf, making these clear and clean waters so inviting for bathers and swimmers. Driving along the coastal highway, you encounter Cottesloe, Sorrento, and finally Mullaloo Beaches with the green space and height of the dunes generally increasing as one proceeds away from Perth. After a splash in the water, I enjoyed lunch at a lookout point built on a towering sand dune that provided a grand view of the coastal strand. Scarborough Beach was the best place for people watching, playing sand football, and surfing. I took a side trip from Perth to see one of the whitest sand beach in Australia. It’s on Lucky Bay, in Cape le Grand National Park, near the small town of Esperance on the Southern Ocean. Lucky Bay was voted the whitest beach in Australia, and after seeing the fine, white sand, I was impressed. In addition to the fine, white sand, Lucky Bay has a brilliant blue water color that was evident even on a cloudy day. I saw several kangaroos right on the beach, which were said to be drawn by the sun and sand (which certainly drew me here); in actuality, these marsupials frequent here because of the fresh water issuing out from springs on the upper beach. While the waters are much cooler there, the scenery was spectacular and best explored by helicopter tour, island cruise, and 50 | SPRING 2010 GULFSCAPES.COM
bush walks. Esperance is the only place I have ever seen processing of fish skins to make shoes and hand bags. I bought a yellow leather skin of a sea snake, remembering that I had accidentally swam with one of these poisonous sea creatures while snorkeling around coral reefs in Thailand during an earlier trip to this part of the world. South Australia offered the opportunity to explore some phenomenal wilderness areas after landing in the welldesigned city of Adelaide. I enjoyed staying at Glenelg Beach—a real hot spot in Adelaide with its seaside restaurants and amusement park, but the real adventure for me began with a short flight over to Kangaroo Island. Kangaroo Island is well named as there are kangaroos galore along with a lot of other wildlife on this remote island. At Kangaroo Island Wilderness Retreat I had an up-close and personal experience with a pregnant female kangaroo. She loved to eat the pelletized grass from a brown paper bag while I petted her ears, head and back. I found a wallaby, a smaller cousin of the kangaroo, roaming around and fed it also. Then I walked into my room to get another bag of food. Much to my surprise, the pregnant female kangaroo had hopped quickly some ten yards into my room behind me. I blocked her way so that she could not jump onto my bed wherein she raised up to meet me eye to eye. I quickly threw the bag of feed onto the porch, which she pursued albeit I had to push her big butt and thick, stout tail out of my room so I could close the slidingglass door. I certainly didn’t want to clean up an accidental kangaroo bathroom stop! Chris of Kangaroo Island Wilderness Tours took me on trips to see a range of wildlife, including frequent road stops to spot such creatures as the Echidna—a little porcupine-looking animal that was so cute and doesn’t shoot spines into your
beach review
m the gorgeous beaches of South Australia hand when touched. A grove of blue-gum eucalyptus trees attracted a large number of koalas, reminding me of the little bear toy that I took to bed when I was a toddler. I came within five feet of one koala, which didn’t find me that interesting or else couldn’t keep its eyes open very long because of the low energy content of its food—the eucalyptus tree leaves. I started my Kangaroo Island beach exploration at Vivonne Bay, which was once named the best beach in the nation by an Australian colleague because of its unpolluted, crystal clear water and soft, white sand. This long, curving beach with its turquoise waters is ideal for beach-combing, fishing and surfing. The best swimming areas can be found in the protected waters near the pier (called a “jetty” by the Aussies) and the sandy-bottomed Harriet River that enters the bay nearby. On big wave days, the surf here on the Southern Ocean can be awesome, but causes powerful rip currents. These rip currents are a surfers’ delight because they provide a quick trip offshore, but are a danger for bathers and swimmers. I made my way to the final beach stop on the north shore of Kangaroo Island by way of a dirt road that offered great views of the rolling pasture land and large herds of sheep. At first all that I saw at the car park area was a boulder beach that was interesting, but not that impressive by Australian standards. Then I saw the walkway through a narrow gap in the huge limestone boulders and rock slabs that were chaotically stacked by some force that I am still unable to resolve. Finally I reached Secret Beach with its beautiful fine, white sand and turquoise water that was great for a quick dip. The shallow waters were quite a bit warmer than those encountered elsewhere. After Kangaroo Island, I traveled to Port Lincoln—the fishing capital of Australia. As we were landing at the quaint airport, I saw the large fish rings in the harbor that hold the southern Atlantic blue-fin tuna, the most valuable and famous fish in
Left, Lucky Bay in Esperance, Western Australia was voted the whitest sand beach in Australia. Middle, Bondi Beach, located southeast of central Sydney. Right, Beaches outside of Port Lincoln have contrasting coastal landscape, ranging from sheltered waters and beaches, to surf beaches and rugged oceanic coastline.
Australia; one fish can fetch $20,000 for sashimi from Tokyo fishmongers. I met up with Phil of Wilderness Wanders to do some fourwheel exploring of the Eyre Peninsula, which is one of South Australia’s most remote tourist regions. We drove over rocky roads and up huge, barren sand dunes that tower hundreds of feet high that make you think you are in the Sahara Desert. Along the way we saw spectacular coastal scenery, ranging from huge Southern Ocean waves hitting rugged, high cliffs to calm waters lapping at sheltered bay beaches. We also passed through grassy flatlands where herds of kangaroos and emus could be seen. We finally reached Memory Bay Park, where we enjoyed our lunch on picnic tables. There was a beautiful, small pocket beach here where I enjoyed some beach-combing; I found an auger-shaped egg case of a shark that screws it into the ocean bottom; the baby shark emerges a month or so later. Leaving the Eyre Peninsula behind, my next stop was Bondi Beach in Sydney’s eastern suburbs—one of the most famous beaches in the world and an Australian Natural Heritage Site. Bondi is a stunning crescent of sand that offers fantastic swimming and surfing and is popular with tourists, locals and families. It is easy to get to and is backed by a range of excellent restaurants and cafes. There’s even a popular reality television show called “Bondi Rescue” that follows the exploits of the Bondi lifeguards and the beach culture. There is a paved walking path that extends for several miles south from Bondi to Coogee Beach that has to be one of the most scenic coastal walks in the world. It first passes the Bondi GULFSCAPES.COM SPRING 2010 | 51
beach review Left, Wild beach in Esperance, Western Australia. Below, Baby kangaroo on beach at Memory Bay, Port Lincoln, Australia.
dr. beach’s 5 beaches not to miss in south australia
1. bondi beach, sydney 2. tamarama beach, sydney 3. vivonne bay beach, southern australia 4. scarborough beach, perth, western australia 5. hyams beach, new south wales Icebergs Swimming Club, home to an historic salt-water swimming pool and cliff-edge restaurant. The walk takes you along rugged rocky headlands with spectacular vistas and plenty of fresh salty air. After a short while, I came to Tamarama Beach, a much smaller pocket beach compared to Bondi, but with its own charm and topless sun bathers. The locals like to call it “Glamarama” Beach. After seeing Bondi, I decided to take a drive up the coastal highway to see Sydney’s northern beaches and encountered one charming beach-based community after another, finally ending up at Palm Beach. The sand composition of the northern beaches is different—a distinct reddish-orange sand. The vegetation at Palm Beach was very lush due to micro-climatic conditions. There was a TV production of a popular Australian show underway the day that I visited this wonderful beach backed by cliff-edge mansions. While in Sydney, I stayed at the Four Seasons downtown, which was superb. My room provided an inspirational view of the harbor and the most famous Australian icon of all—the Sydney Opera House. Sydney is such a beautiful city and has so much to offer that I could only experience a fraction of it as I had to get back to my first love—beaches. I rented a car and headed south for Paperbark Camp in the Jervis Bay area. Along the way, I stopped at a number of scenic lookouts for a panoramic view of the coast; my favorite was a clifftop view of Wollongong, which lies on a low-lying coastal plain. Paperbark Camp is a peaceful bush retreat built along the banks of a river that is best explored by canoe or kayak to see some of the 52 | SPRING 2010 GULFSCAPES.COM
wonderful wildlife. I saw two beautiful parrot-type birds and also other wildlife here, especially kangaroos roaming freely. One night I was in an upscale hotel in downtown Sydney and the next I was camping in the bush—both were luxurious in their own way, but so different in all other respects. One of my reasons to visit the Jervis Bay area was to explore Hyams Beach, which according to the Guinness Book of Records has the whitest sand in the world. Being a beach inside Jervis Bay, there was no real surf, which made this an excellent swimming beach. I also visited a number of other beautiful little beaches in the area, which are also blessed with fine, white sand. I will have to compare the sand that I collected at Hyams Beach with that from other acclaimed white-sand beaches, such as Lucky Bay Beach in Esperance and Siesta Key in Florida. Regardless of which is technically whiter, I was certainly impressed with these beautiful beaches Down Under. f Dr. Stephen Leatherman, better known as Dr. Beach, is Chair Professor and Director of the Laboratory for Coastal Research at Florida International University. Americans anxiously await the annual Memorial Day release of his yearly Top 10 Beaches list, which ranks the best beaches in the United States. Dr. Leatherman has published several books, including “America’s Best Beaches”, “Hurricanes” and “Dr. Beach’s Survival Guide: What You Need to Know About Sharks, Rip Currents, and More Before Going in the Water”. Visit Dr. Beach at his website, www.DrBeach.org.
good times
By Jennifer Kornegay
M I S S I S S I P P I
G U L F
C O A S T
Bet On A Good Time If you’re looking for more than sun and sand at the coast, try your luck at any one of the Mississippi
L Gulf Coasts’ casino resorts.
Life along the Mississippi Gulf Coast is good—so good in fact that residents and visitors alike have weathered many a storm and pushed on to keep that laid-back lifestyle going. But when Hurricane Katrina hit in 2005, she left such destruction in her wake that it seemed improbable that the area would fully recover. Improbable…but not impossible. Today, the coastal communities are thriving, as is the gaming industry, which boasts 11 casino resorts that rival the variety, amenities and elegance of Las Vegas. Yet they offer something extra, something “Sin City” can’t imitate—Southern charm. “The Mississippi Gulf Coast has always been a beach, golf and tourism destination. The gaming industry has only improved the guest experience by offering better entertainment, more dining, nightlife and recreational options along with our one and only, world-class Southern hospitality,” said Mary Cracchiolo-Spain, public relations director at Beau Rivage, the coast’s biggest, and one of its brightest, casino jewels. “The Beau,” as its many return guests call it, certainly should be shiny, after a $550-million renovation, and now boasts 1,740 guest rooms and suites, 10 restaurants, four lounges and bars, 12 retail venues, a spa and salon, pool and a convention center and is a AAA
Four Diamond resort. “The new Beau Rivage has a completely enhanced architecture and interior design scheme boasting contemporary ambiance infused with the resort’s signature Southern charm and elegance,” explained Cracchiolo-Spain. “The casino floor includes a poker room, state-of-the-art gaming areas and welldefined high-limits area, and there is a new casino lounge – the Breeze Bar – located at the heart of the action.” But the outlook wasn’t always so sunny at Beau Rivage. Hurricane Katrina had a major impact on the property. “The resort closed for a year as a result and reopened on the one year anniversary of Hurricane Katrina, August 29, 2006,” Cracchiolo-Spain said. “Today, it is business as usual.” Treasure Bay in Biloxi also felt the brunt of Katrina. “Hurricane Katrina devastated Treasure Bay along with the rest of the Gulf Coast. In 2005, our casino was actually on a barge replicating an 18th century pirate ship. We lost that barge in Katrina and were able to reopen a casino and several food and beverage outlets in our Palace Casino Resort overlooks the beautiful Biloxi Back Bay and the Gulf of Mexico. The resort features luxurious guest rooms and suites, a casino with the latest slot and video poker machines and table game favorites, as well as a beautiful marina and pool.
GULFSCAPES.COM SPRING 2010 | 53
good times
Beachcomb during the Day. Roll the dice at Night. existing hotel facility,” said Treasure Bay COO Susan Varnes. “We are very proud of the new casino and hotel, even though it is not quite as large as our previous property. We received an award for the Best Architectural Redesign for a Casino Resort in 2008 during the Global Gaming Expo in Las Vegas.” But while so far there have been no more major hurricanes to contend with, dark clouds in the form of a down economy have threatened business of all types, and the Mississippi casinos have not been immune. Calling itself Biloxi’s most relaxing casino, Boomtown Casino keeps people coming back with its ‘service with a smile’ philosophy. “We are a friendly casino where the customer is not a number…they are a friend,” said Sunita Sailor, Boomtown’s marketing director. Boomtown was hit by Katrina, too, closing for 10 months after the storm. But as Sailor explained, the property took the lemons and made lemonade. “Boomtown has recovered in full stride and actually made some great physical improvements,” she said. Now Boomtown, like its competitors, is using that same determination to push through hard economic times. “The down economy has caused us, like everyone else, to tighten our belt a bit,” she said. “But we have always tried to give our customers what they want in a relaxed atmosphere, so they feel right at home. And we’re seeing positive signs for 2010.” Island View in Gulfport is the only casino in that city, the state’s second largest. With 83,000 square feet of gaming space, more than 560 hotel rooms and suites and a wide range of amenities, it is one of the Gulf Coast’s largest casinos, but it is locally owned. While it escaped Katrina (Island View was built after the hurricane), the economy has been a bit of a challenge. Yet Wade West, Island View’s director of marketing, sees his property as a great option for families and individuals looking to have fun and is confident about the future. “The Mississippi Gulf Coast tourism 54 | SPRING 2010 GULFSCAPES.COM
industry has always been a predominantly drive-in market; therefore, many people in outer-lying metropolitan areas have found that coming to our area by automobile is a vacation value that packs a variety of entertainment options,” he said. “Certainly, the nation is undergoing an economically difficult time, but our local tourism leaders have always understood how to manage challenges, and the way we operate Island View is no exception.” Treasure Bay also has positive news. “We have actually fared better than some in this tough economy,” said Varnes. “We were one of the few casino companies that experienced increased revenue in 2009 compared to 2008.” As a smaller casino resort, Treasure Bay looks to customer service to set it apart from the crowd and earn return guests. “So many of our crew members have been with Treasure Bay since before Hurricane Katrina,” she said. “They know our guests by their first names and their favorite drinks and foods. It truly is a neighborhood or family atmosphere here.” And while the future of these casino resorts may be important to the guests who love to stay and play on the Mississippi coast, their continued success is equally vital to the communities in which they reside. According to Varnes, “The local community is hugely impacted by the gaming industry. Approximately one-third of the city’s [Biloxi] operating budget is derived through gaming tax. Besides the tax benefits, the gaming industry plays a large role with charities and other local organizations. It makes me quite proud to be a part of the gaming industry. I am not only speaking from the perspective of our company, but our Crew members step up at every opportunity to take part in fundraisers and personally volunteer Enjoy 24-hour gaming excitement in Biloxi's most relaxing casino Boomtown Casino Biloxi. Gamblers love this place - high-payout slots, table games and live poker.
their time with various organizations.” In fact, for their volunteering spirit and generous actions, employees of Treasure Bay were recently recognized by the United Way with the President’s Volunteer Award. It’s the same story with each casino. The Beau Rivage is the largest employer in Biloxi with 3,800-plus employees. Island View is the largest privately held employer in Gulfport and is a major tax contributor to the area. “Island View is also vested in this community through community giving. We contribute funds, time and talent to countless nonprofit, civic and professional groups,” said West. Visitors to each casino hope they’ll receive a similarly positive economic impact in their own wallets, but for most, it’s as much about playing as it is actually winning, and the Mississippi casinos have plenty of great gaming for both. Island View Casino Resort is Beau Rivage’s 85,000-square-foot casino home to Chef Emeril Lagasse's features 93 table games, 2,100 slot Gulf Coast Fish House. machines, 230 video poker games and a 16table poker room and also offers a high-roller salon that includes 10 blackjack tables and an interchangeable table for roulette or baccarat as well as a high-limit slot room with 100 slot machines. The all-new Grand Biloxi Casino, Hotel & Spa’s 33,000-square-foot casino has 800 of the hottest slots and more than 35 table games, including baccarat, blackjack, craps and roulette and Texas Hold ‘Em Bonus Poker. There’s even a themed section. The Asian Gaming Area features six gaming tables, where guests can enjoy the action of mini-baccarat, pai gow and blackjack and the convenience of the adjacent Asian restaurant, Cuu Long Souper Pho. While gaming may be the main draw, that’s not the end of the appeal at these properties. Fine dining, shopping, golf courses and spas add the finishing touches. The Grand Biloxi Hotel pampers guests with its 16,000-square-foot Bellissimo Spa & Salon, complete with a full-service salon and fitness center. Dining options include award-winning L.b.’s Steakhouse, the 300-seat Grand Buffet and The Grand Cafe, open 24 hours for salads, sandwiches and pastries. For those who include golf in their list of favorite games, The Grand offers the Grand Bear Golf Course, an 18-hole Jack Nicklaus Signature Golf Course that navigates through natural cypress wetlands. The Beau Rivage also has a gift for golfers. It recently added a new golf course— Fallen Oak, a Tom Fazio design that will host a PGA Champions Tour event in March. Diners at the Beau Rivage can choose from BR Prime, the resort’s signature steak and seafood restaurant, Jia, with contemporary Asian cuisine and more. The Beau’s real claim to fame is its entertainment, bringing top acts to the coast nearly every weekend including names like Jay Leno, Tony Bennett, B.B. King, The Beach Boys, Olivia Newton-John and more. At Island View, visitors can dine at world renowned chef Emeril Lagasse’s Emeril’s Gulf Coast Fish House, a signature restaurant called C&G Grille, or The Coffee Shop, a 24-hour restaurant that features gourmet sandwiches, salads, fountain-style desserts and locally roasted coffee. Island View also has live musical entertainment at the resort’s popular View Bar. Back in business and better than ever, the Mississippi Gulf Coast’s casino resorts take the gamble out of finding fun. g
Let the Good Times Roll – Variety is the spice of life, and the diverse offerings from the 11 casino resorts stretched across biloxi, gulfport and bay st. louis are spicing up the fun factor of the Mississippi gulf coast. With so many spots to choose from, there’s definitely something for everyone. the Palace, biloxi this spring, a major expansion at the palace casino will be complete. this casino resort is only getting better with a 110,000-square-foot project, which is the largest casino expansion on the Mississippi gulf coast since hurricane Katrina. when it’s done, the property will include 38,000 square feet of gaming space with more than 1,000 slot machines and 26 new table games. also included will be an eight-table poker room and high limit salon. Keith crosby, general manager of the palace casino resort, said, “prior to the storm, we were a four-diamond resort. we are bringing back many of the amenities we lost to again provide our guests the complete package. we will also maintain many of our current amenities that have become popular, like our signature golf course, the preserve; our first-class marina; and our award-winning fine dining restaurant, Mignon’s.” hard rock hotel & casino, biloxi rock ‘n roll and rolling the dice. find both in spades at hard rock hotel & casino biloxi. with 1,400 slot machines, 50 table games and a poker room, gambling options are great. but it’s the hard rock live, a music venue that seats 1,600 at one time, that makes the hard rock what it is. past concerts include performances from 3 doors down, Kid rock, the doobie brothers, styx, stevie nicks and more. iP casino resort, biloxi in addition to the non-stop gaming at ip (1,900 slots, 62 table games and a 16-table poker room), guests enjoy the bountiful buffet of dining choices. fine dining is a hallmark of ip, with its four diamond-rated restaurant thirtytwo leading the way. isle casino, biloxi the luxury and tranquility of the islands awaits visitors to isle casino hotel. gaming action includes 1,300 of the latest slots, 31 table games, plus a live poker room. and when you’re worn out from playing, retire to the elegant accommodations in the 700-room hotel, which includes 200 suites, many with a gulf view. hollywood casino, bay st. louis feel like a star at the 600-acre hollywood casino. play 900 slots, 20 table games and six poker tables, and then try your luck on the links. with the bridges golf club, hollywood casino boasts the area’s only arnold palmer golf course, which is also the area’s only onsite resort golf course. it was ranked one of the top ten courses in the state by golf digest magazine as well. the silver slipper casino, bay st. louis the silver slipper casino has the distinction of being the newest gaming destination on the Mississippi gulf coast. as the first land-based casino built from the ground up, this 100,000-square-foot destination delivers over 30,000-square-feet of casino space, still leaving room for dining and entertainment.
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Pirates of the Gulf Coast
足60 | SPRING 2010 GULFSCAPES.COM
Story by Holly Beretto
tall tales
They say dead men tell no tales, but if those dead mean are pirates, you can guarantee there are plenty of tales told about them. All along the Gulf Coast, long before there were all-inclusive resorts, beautifully restored historic homes and high-rise condos, there were pirates.
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Opposite, This corsair is a little stiff behind the wheel, but you can find a much better helmsman on the Black Dragon Pirate Cruise at Pirate’s Landing in Port Isabel, TX. Left, Captain Red Beard delights young and old alike on Saturdays and Wednesdays on Pirate Island at the Tradewinds Island Resort in St. Pete Beach, FL.
ut after that, the facts get murky. Who plundered here? Who perished there? Did that ship really sink just over there? Seeking a complete treasure trove of pirate facts is a little like searching for buried treasure, which is one of the reasons pirate researchers say those rascals and knaves of the high seas hold such fascination even today. “Oh, everyone’s always interested in the bad boy, casting fate to the wind,” says Charles Sullivan, professor emeritus of Mississippi Gulf Coast Community College and a regional historian and writer. “And pirates sure did that. But a lot of what’s left over is more legend and lore, than actual fact.” “There are all these great stories,” agrees Wilson Hawthorne, who wrote his novel, The Last Pirate, based on the life of pirate Jose Gaspar, known by the nickname Gasparilla, who pillaged and plundered along the Florida Gulf Coast. “I came here in 1988 and I almost immediately started hearing all these stories about
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Top 5 Pirates of the Gulf Coast Perhaps the most famous, and colorful pirate of the Gulf Coast, was the swashbuckling Jean Lafitte, who cruised the waters from Galveston, Texas to New Orleans. Despite his excapades and illegal activites, he’s also remembered today as being instrumental in aiding Andrew Jackson to win the seige of New Orleans. José Gaspar, known by his nickname Gasparilla, was the bane of the Florida West Coast during the late 18th and early 19th centuries. Or so legend would have us believe. There’s no factual proof he existed. But real or not, he gave his name to Gasparilla Island and Tampa’s popular Gasparilla Pirate Festival. Sir Francis Drake, however, was very real and an admiral in the English navy. But the Spaniards, whose ships he raided in the Gulf of Mexico, considered him a notorious pirate and privateer. He made use of the Texas coast from which to stage his raids against the Spanish ships. The infamous Black Caesar was an 18th century African pirate who raided ships from the Florida Keys and lent his name to Caesar’s Rock, a small island in the middle of Caesar’s Creek, reputed to be the pirate’s hideaway. Caesar later sailed under one of the most famous pirates of the Golden Age of Piracy: Captain Blackbeard. Edward Teach, better known as Captain Blackbeard, terrorized both sides of Florida and was known to be vicious and a bit theatrical, putting lit matches and cannon fuses into his thick beard before battle. His exploits, as far south as the Caribbean Sea, gave rise to many a pop culture pirate in literature and film.
Top, The Shark’s Tooth Tavern at the Tradewinds Island Resort in St. Pete Beach, FL offers nightly (except Tues.) live music, boat drinks, and fishing advice. Left, The Black Dragon, hailing from Port Isabel, TX, stalks her prey in the shallow waters of the Laguna Madre.
Gasparilla’s exploits and I knew it would be great for a book.” But he knows that the research blends more seamlessly into lore than actual pirate history. “When you look at the history of the Sanibel islands,” he says, “you don’t have the same sort of records you’d have from a place like New Orleans or some of the Caribbean outposts, because this wasn’t really a settled spot.” Without a town, or a provincial government, he says, we aren’t left with records and reports about criminal offenses of pirates, or even population accounts. So, over time, the legends take root and the stories wind up with lives of their own. “People make things up, too,” laughs Sullivan. “In all my research, I’ve never found one thing that indicates any real pirates showing up along our Mississippi coast, from the border of Louisiana to the border of Alabama.”
tall tales
WHERE THE PIRATES AARRR ... Whether made up or real, though, the lure the pirate past cast can’t be underestimated in the present. Pirate festivals and historic sites abound throughout the Gulf Coast and beyond. In Tampa every year, there’s the Gasparilla Pirate Festival, where re-enactors land their 165-foot pirate ship in Tampa Bay, then “invade” the city near downtown. The Billy Bowlegs Pirate Festival in Fort Walton is like a madcap Mardi Gras party, complete with fireworks and parades. In New Orleans, you can walk in the footsteps of the pirate Jean Lafitte, thanks to the team that manages the Jean Lafitte National Historic Park and Reserve. And in Texas, you can have a true pirate adventure aboard The Black Dragon, a custom-built replica of a 17th century pirate ship commanded by Christy McDonald, who is Ruby the Pirate Queen. “We do a two-hour trip from Pirate’s Landing in Port Isabelle,” says McDonald. “And we sail around Laguna Madre.” During the cruise, guests are entertained by a cadre of pirates, raising a ruckus and acting slightly disreputable with an edge for family fun. Fighting like a pirate, talking like a pirate, even possibly taking part in a mutiny like a pirate are on the agenda. “It’s a lot of action,” says McDonald.
Action, of course, is part of pirate lore: shipwrecks, kidnappings, sword fights and looting all figure into the pirate life. To say nothing of buried treasure. Jeanette Born Holdt, a librarian in Alabama’s Foley Public Library, has a cache of articles about pirate history she’s happy to share. Among them are tales about the naming of places along Alabama’s gulf coast, such as Perdido Bay, which means “lost,” and takes its name from being so hard to find. “Perdido Pass, Lost Key and Perdido Bay got their name because of the pirates who hid there and ravished ships going into the ports of Pensacola and Mobile,” she said via email. “The pirates could hide here -- get fresh water and not been seen until they were ready to come out into the Gulf. Members of the Baldwin County Historical Society believe that because of this Baldwin County may be the site of buried pirate treasure.” But the real treasure for pirate lovers is letting their imaginations run wild as they meander the beaches and coves of the Gulf, listening for the echoes of sung sea shanties, the mirage of a sail on the horizon and the clash of swords that tell you pirates were here and that dead men tell no tales.
Right, Pirate’s Landing in Port Isabel, Texas, offers nightly cannon fights. Left, Ruby the Pirate Queen (Christy McDonald) prepares for battle.
the Eight aarrr’s gaspar’s Patio bar & grill 8448 n. 56th st., tampa Fl 813-988-6959 • www.gasparspatio.com here’s a bar and eatery, named after tampa’s most famous pirate, Jose gaspar, that serves up the modern version of the pirate’s life – including drinks, wings and live music.
red beard’s shark tooth tavern 5500 gulf blvd., st. Pete beach Fl 727-363-2351 • www.tradewindsresort.com a nice change of color from pirate beards of black or blue, this laid-back eatery on the beach is located in the tradewinds island resort. if you’re lucky, you’ll arrive in time for the crab races.
gaspar’s grotto 1805 E. 7th ave., tampa Fl 813-248-5900 • www.gasparsgrotto.com especially on the city’s wildest nights each year – guavaween and the gasparilla night parade – this hotspot in the celebrated cuban section called ybor city is a delight. don’t miss the cuban sandwiches.
Pirates cove bar & grille 827 W. bloomingdale ave., brandon Fl 813-681-6049 the street name might make some think of high-end shopping, but this down-to-earth watering hole in the tampa bay metroplex is for drinks, casual food and live music.
Peg leg Pete’s 1010 Fort Pickens road, Pensacola beach Fl 850-932-4139 • www.peglegpetes.com it’s about time a pirate with a wooden leg showed up. excellent for waterfront dining, live music and a fun atmosphere. six kinds of baked oysters are the stars here, especially the spicy oysters lafitte.
Pirate’s landing 110 n. garcia st., Port isabel, tX 956-943-3663 located near the lighthouse, this pirate lair includes a restaurant, fishing pier, pirate patio and the black dragon pirate cruises on a replica pirate galleon. each evening the resident pirates fire off a cannon, just to get you into the plundering mood.
the Friendly Fisherman 150 John's Pass boardwalk, Madeira beach, Fl 727-391-6025 • www.gofriendlyfisherman.com for a fresh breath of old florida, drop by the friendly fisherman for great seafood. sit on its dock to watch the dolphins and passing boats. then stroll next door and hop on the pirate ship for a quick cruise. for major pirate action, don’t miss John levique pirate days, June 11-13, 2010.
Moby dick’s 517 s alister st., Port aransas, tX 361-749-9447 this bar/restaurant/gift shop/music venue has more pirate decor and atmosphere than you can soak up in one visit. it took years to collect all the unique buccaneer goodies on display here. a great place for dinner, grog and song.
happy harbor bar & restaurant 27212 Marina road, orange beach al 866-919-6982 • www.happyharborbar.com check out the signature rum-banana-liqueur drink in this find near the alabama-florida state line, Monkey Juice. local saying: “the Monkey will make you swing from the trees.” there’s an outside tiki bar, plus a pirate festival each september.
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THE BAD BOY OF ALCOHOL Cognac and vodka conjure images of elegant aloofness. Not rum. Rum has always had a bad boy image. Maybe because rum and pirates hit their peak about the same time. The late 1600’s to early 1700’s were the glory years for pirates, which coincides with the rise of rum as a major player in the world economy. Since then, rum and pirates have been irrevocably linked. And not without reason. According to Wayne Curtis, author of the book And a Bottle of Rum: A History of the New World in Ten Cocktails, pirates took whatever treasure they found in captured vessels. And since rum was a popular commodity back then, they naturally ended up with a lot of it. And drank a lot of it. Legend has it that Blackbeard, the notorious pirate who threatened the Carolina coasts, drank a flaming concoction of rum and gunpowder. Nothing in history documents this, says Curtis, but it’s a great story. Curtis notes that what is documented, from Blackbeard’s own journals, is that shortly before he was defeated, Blackbeard was “grousing because his crew was getting ornery because they had run out of rum. But then they found a ship to attack and they found some rum on it, and then everything was O.K.” And then there’s Captain Morgan, the famous Welsh pirate. “Captain Morgan became a namesake for a famous rum. I’ve read through all these accounts of what he was doing and there’s no reference to rum in any of it. It’s all wine. They plundered wine,” Curtis says. This is probably because Morgan was active mostly before 1670, which according to Curtis, “is before rum really hit its stride as a trade item.” When rum did hit its stride, it played a significant role in our history. “Rum played a big part, particularly in New England, in the history and development of the U.S. It played a big role in the American Revolution,” explained Curtis. New England traded for molasses from the Caribbean because they didn’t have the money to buy sugar, most of which went to Europe. Curtis says that molasses at that time was cheap because it was an industrial waste of the sugar making process. Once molasses arrived in New England, they incorporated it into their food, some of which still survives, such as baked beans, ginger bread and molasses cookies. “They also discovered they could run it through a still and make rum with it,” emphasized Curtis. And they traded the rum. It was a huge part of the early economy and profits from rum sales helped fund the New England textile industry. And, explained Curtis, a lot of the rum was actually traded to Native Americans. Rum is also associated with the slave trade. It was part of a triangle between the Caribbean, England (or North America) and
Above, A book by Wayne Curtis that explores the history of rum. Visit his blog about small-batch spirits, handcrafted drinks & bars at SlowCocktails.com.
Africa, that started with sugar (or molasses) being sent from the Caribbean to America or England, where it was made into rum, which was traded in Africa for slaves, who were then sent to the Caribbean to work the sugar plantations. However, “It didn’t figure as heavily in the slave trade as a lot of people tend to think,” said Curtis. “It was part of the slave trade but it was also overblown a lot in the late 19th century, both by the abolitionists and the prohibition groups. It came to be sort of a whipping boy for a lot of people.” There’s that bad boy image again. The negative image was further enhanced with the passage of the Volstead Act, better known as Prohibition. Rum may have been illegal, but it was not unpopular. According to Curtis, “The Gulf Coast was a large part of the rum-running during prohibition, from 1920 to 1933, especially the Gulf side of Florida. There are all the mangrove swamps in southern Florida, little hidden inlets, and on dark nights, it was perfect for smuggling. So a lot of rum came in from the Bahamas, and of course a lot came in from Cuba, which was the major distribution center for rum for the entire United States during prohibition. It was easy to go down to Cuba. Smugglers started bringing rum up in small boats. They would make a run down to Havana, then come back up the Florida coast and dart in at night and have some trucks waiting for them at the end of a mangrove swamp. They could get it out into the market without much bother.” As for rum’s impact on the rest of the Gulf Coast, it is largely unknown, as there isn’t a lot of research on the subject. “Because of all the sugar making in Louisiana you would expect there to be a lot of rum history in New Orleans. Rum is a by-product of sugar, so where you find sugar you find rum, but there hasn’t been much research done on the rum distilled in that area. The Port of New Orleans had so much cheap bourbon and rye coming in, there never was a big rum trade, even though it was being made all around the city for local consumption. You know something was going on in New Orleans with rum, but there isn’t much research on it.” No matter the history, the world’s largest rum collection is currently housed in New Orleans. “Stephen Remsberg has the largest private collection of rum in the world. He’s got about 800 bottles, all sorts of makes and vintages. He’s a retired lawyer and likes his rum,” said Curtis. A retired lawyer has the world’s largest rum collection? Won’t that just add to rum’s bad boy reputation? Drink up.
summer spirits
Summer of Rum
A Guide to Quench Your Inner Buccaneer!
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Looking for Pirate Liquor? Look no further than our own backyard. The Gulf Coast states are home to several rum micro-distilleries. Here’s a look at several handcrafted spirits with local ties.
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ASommelier&a Chemical Engineer Walk into a Bar..
No! Wait! It’s not a bad joke! It’s how Railean Rum got its start! You know how, after a few drinks, you’re sitting around and someone says, “I could do better than that!”? Usually, it’s about a basketball player missing free throws, a quarterback fumbling, or a politician wrecking the economy. In our case, it was Kelly Railean sitting in the Buccaneer Bar on Galveston Bay with friends, drinking a not-too-good bottle of rum. “I could make better rum than this!”, was Kelly’s bold declaration. But unlike the geek who never played sports yet still thinks he can perform better than real athletes, Kelly actually had talent, training and a partner that made her declaration achievable. You see, Kelly was already a First Level Sommelier and also had several years experience in selling spirits at the wholesale level. And Kelly’s husband and co-founder, Matt, is a chemical engineer. Helpful talents when you’re starting a rum distillery. Kelly also became a Master Distiller, believed to be the first woman in Texas to do so. But what made Kelly take that big leap, from brash talk in a bar to actually making rum? “About 15 years ago, my husband and I started sailing, and sailors of course are into rum and pirates and all that fun stuff. When we started really getting into sailing, we started to collect rum and visited a lot of little rum distilleries when we were in the islands. Then one day we were goofing off with some friends and drinking rum, and it wasn’t very good.” Which resulted in her now famous “I can do better” declaration. “One thing led to another and we thought, ‘What a great idea!’ I already understood how the system worked as far as distribution and sales, and my husband understood the distillation process, so we started putting together a business plan.” The result is Railean Rum, produced in San Leon, Texas, on the shores of Galveston Bay, in a facility that was located just down the road from the Buccaneer Bar. Note the word “was”? That’s because the Buccaneer got washed away by Hurricane Ike. Kelly has fond memories of the Buccaneer. “We hung out there a lot when we were sailing. We’d anchor out in the bay and dingy in. A new bar has been built there now, called Judges.” Kelly’s distillery was also flooded during Ike, but sustained no structural damage. And no rum
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Railean Rum • Galveston, TX
summer spirits was lost! After a few weeks of repairs, Kelly and Matt were back distilling. They’re running at full speed now. “We’re making a lot of rum and selling a lot of rum”, Kelly said. “There are exciting things going on. We got a forklift not too long ago. I traded my convertible, collector’s item Cadillac Allante for it!” Trading a Cadillac for a forklift . . . that’s true devotion to your craft! Today, the Raileans are producing “100% Handmade Texas Rum” from pure Grade-A, unsulfured, cane molasses from Louisiana. The distilled spirits are aged in new, small charred American Oak barrels, rather than used whiskey barrels, as is the industry norm. Kelly says used whisky barrels impart to rum a whiskey flavor, and she wants her rum to taste like rum. Railean is making three different variations of its rum. Its White Rum is perfect for mixes and is exceptionally dry and crisp. Reserve XO is a heavier rum, with hints of chocolate and oak. The latest creation is Small Cask Reserve, an ultra premium, single barrel dark rum, richer, more complex and perfect for sipping, with dark carmel flavors and a woodsy finish. Gracing each bottle of Railean Rum is the official distillery mascot, a Quaker Parrot, also known as a Monk Parakeet. These birds popped up a few years ago and have colonized the shore of Galveston Bay ever since. You can still see the little rascals if you come to tour the distillery. Tours are available by reservation. Give Kelly a call to set one up. But be patient if she doesn’t answer on the first call. She’s pretty busy these days. She’s not only distilling, she’s doing promotional tours and bottle signings. And she just hammered out a distribution agreement with Republic National Distributing Company which opens up more markets for her rums. Kelly’s made good on her declaration about making better rum. It makes you think about all those times you hear someone say how they could do things better. So the next time you’re in a bar and a guy says, “I could do better than that!”, test him to see if he’s serious; ask if he’d be willing to trade his car for a forklift. Railean Rums are available in liquors stores around the Gulf Coast.
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GULFSCAPES.COM SPRING 2010 | 67
summer spirits
Treaty Oak Rum • Austin, TX
Rum,WITH A SIDE OF TEXAS HISTORY
To understand why you’d name your premium, hand-crafted rum after a tree, you’d first have to understand that the Treaty Oak isn’t just any old tree. It’s part of the grand mythology of the Lone Star State, and is a member of the American Forestry Association’s Hall of Fame. The 500 year old Southern live oak is the last tree still standing out of a grove of oaks called the Council Oaks. The Council Oaks were considered a sacred meeting place by the Comanche, Tejas and Tonkawa tribes of Native Americans. Legend has it that Stephen F. Austin, the father of Texas, signed a treaty with local Native Americans way back in the early 1800’s; hence the name Treaty Oak. The Treaty Oak is still there in Austin, graceful in its old age, even after some idiot poisoned it in 1989.
Yep, tree terrorist. Really. I couldn’t make this stuff up. And before any smarties ask, no, they don’t use any part of the Treat Oak to make the rum. They just took its name as a symbol of integrity, strength and purity. “They” are Bruce Graham and Daniel Barnes, owners of Treaty Oak Rum. I spoke with Daniel about his micro-distillery and the state of the rum business. “We had a real good year last year,” he said. “It was our second real year in business. We had some nice national accolades for our rum. Tastings.com, which is a beverage tasting institute, rated us second overall world-wide for silver rums. That’s a far cry from when I had mason jars all over my house a couple of years ago!” The new breed of micro-distillery rums are not your Dad’s rum. They are usually more complex, and can vary from flavored rums to a more upscale, expensive, fine-scotch type rum. As for Treaty Oak, Daniel says, “Our rum is a lot different than what people are used to. It’s a lot lighter, kind of drier style. The vast, vast majority of rums that you try, especially silver, when they pull them off the still and finish them, what they’ll do is add a little bit of a coconut flavor or
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banana flavoring, just to liven it up and hide some of your alcohol burn. We treat ours more like you would a high end vodka and put it through multiple filtrations and distill it quite a bit, a higher proof.” Making a higher end rum is one thing. Making it all Texan is another. Treaty Oak’s Texas theme is not limited to the name; this rum is all Texan, through and through. “Our big focus is trying to do everything with all Texas ingredients. So we actually get all of our molasses and sugar cane from south Texas at the last operating sugar mill down there in Santa Rosa, which is just west of Harlingen. The only ingredient not from Texas is our yeast, which we had designed by a company in California. But we use a sour mash method where we keep the same yeast, so it’s now probably fifteenth or sixteenth generation Texas yeast at this point!” And how did Daniel come to enter the Texas-born-and-raised custom rum distilling market? “I came from a sommelier background, worked at the Four Seasons, had kind of done wine my whole life.” But after getting married, Daniel left the wine and spirits industry for other ventures, but started missing his old profession. “As the craft distilling and American and Texan distilling movement got going, we saw there weren’t that many people focused on doing things from scratch and by hand and we thought that was kind of a cool opportunity to show off the more artisanal side of spirit making. And I like drinking rum! I also had a big home-brewer background, too, where I knew everybody here in town and had done that side of it for a good twelve or thirteen years. My business partner, Bruce, is an engineer. So Bruce designed all of our distilling and fermentation equipment and built everything by hand. It’s kind of one of those things that was a hobby that has turned into work.” As hobbies go, rum making has to be one of the most intriguing. As a business, it has to be one of the most dreamed about. Now that Daniel has a dream job, what’s on the horizon? “I have some gin we’ll be releasing soon, and we’ll also be releasing an aged rum. We’ve also been working on a whisky for several years. And we’re hoping to put out a seasonal spiced rum for 2010.” And while Treaty Oak Rum is currently only available in Texas, it should be available throughout the Gulf Coast region within the next year, as they are in the process of expanding their distribution. And when their expansion occurs, everyone around the Gulf Coast will be able to experience a rum that’s full of Texas, and Texas history.
“AWorkofArt
summer spirits
Old New Orleans Rum • New Orleans, LA
hris Sule, Master Distiller for Old New Orleans Rum in, you guessed it, New Orleans, has deep roots in the Big Easy’s long tradition of alcohol production. One of his grandfathers worked in the Jax Brewery, the other in the Falstaff Brewery. And his older brother was named the 1994 Home Beer Brewer of the Year. He grew up in the business, and has made it both his passion and profession. “Before I started at Old New Orleans Rum, I was Assistant Brewmaster at Dixie Brewery. I got the job at Dixie originally because one of the brewmasters was making home brew with my brother in the Crescent City Home Brew Association. I started out as a tank cleaner at Dixie in around 1990 and worked there until two days before Katrina. I actually brewed the last batch of beer there on record at the Dixie Brewery (after Katrina, Dixie began being brewed in Milwaukee). That was a bittersweet thing.” In his role as master distiller, Sule uses his prior brewery experience, plus a unique mixture of personal talents. He studied botany at LSU, where he graduated, and he also played music for 18 years, in bands and as a session drummer. The botany obviously helps in the chemical process of distilling. The music background helps in other ways. “I understand a little bit about what tastes good. With a little knowledge of science and music, I kind of understood a way of putting those two together at this place (Old New Orleans Rum). It’s very scientific but it’s also very artistic, like culinary arts.” And art is where Old New Orleans Rum started. It was in a kitchen in the 9th Ward where James Michalopoulos and a group of artists and musicians first kicked around the idea of making rum. Later, Michalopoulos, a well respected and successful New Orleans artist, founded Celebration Distilling, the parent company of Old New Orleans Rum. After a couple of years working out the kinks, the first batch of the rum was put up for sale in 1999. In keeping with its artistic background, each bottle of rum has an image of one of Michalopoulos’ vivid architectural paintings of New Orleans on the back of the label. The distillery is housed in an old cotton warehouse on Frenchmen Street. Old New Orleans Rum has tours of its distillery available, and also hosts special events, such as office parties and bachelor and bachelorette parties. It’s even hosted a Fats Domino CD release party, and parties by the local Roller Derby girls. According to Sule, even the distilling equipment has an artistic bent, “We use a pot still and a column still. Our column still is an old 1930’s French perfume still. We built our pot still out of an old
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beer tank from one of the local breweries.” Sule says Old New Orleans is truly a home-grown rum, made from molasses produced from locally grown sugar cane, which is processed in a local sugar factory. Old New Orleans produces four different rums: Crystal, a light bodied white rum; Amber, a three year old blend of three rums; Cajun Spice, flavored with cayenne and cinnamon; and a Ten Year Old Special Edition. Each won a medal at the 2008 International Rum Festival. Before the medals, however, Old New Orleans had to pick itself up after Katrina. Most of the rum actually survived Katrina. Lots of barrels were kept upstairs in the warehouse, but some were stored downstairs, where water invaded. “Basically, a lot of barrels floated around. When I first saw the place there were barrels in weird places all over. They were like floaters. But the government sent their own EPA team and they checked each and every barrel chemically for contaminants, and we only lost a handful of them, like six or seven out of 85. The rest were good to go. We’ve transferred all that rum into new barrels. I found 18 barrels of the Ten Year Old,” said Sule. He continued, “I love New Orleans. And I love the fact that I could come back after Katrina and help it get back on its feet. I feel like I’m a son of the city and it needs me. I’m definitely happy to be here.” Sule sees happy things on the horizon, both for rum in general, and for Old New Orleans. “Rum is growing in popularity. It’s coming back around. You’re starting to see a lot of specialized rums out there, and they’re getting better and better. It’s not just for the Caribbean and other places. We can do it right here in America, and do it quite well.” And just to show their artistic nature isn’t stagnating, Old New Orleans is working on something new. “We’re releasing a new product called, Gingeroo, a carbonated ginger beer that we’re producing and bottling ourselves here. It’s a dynamite product,” said Sule. With the amount of creative energy surrounding it, it’s sure to explode.
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summer spirits
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Islands in the Rum
“There was a light east breeze blowing and out across the flats the Rum was bone white ...” Oops. Channeling Hemingway’s “Islands in the Stream” again. But in Sarasota, Florida, there is a fresh breeze blowing, and it foreshadows the coming of a white rum. That’s because Troy Roberts, owner of Siesta Key Rum, is about to unveil his hand made rums to the Gulf Stream..., er, Gulf Coast. “We’re making our rum from organically grown, all Florida sugar cane,” said Roberts, taking advantage of the growing demand for organic, locally grown products. “Our rum is made in a 6400 sq. ft. facility in Sarasota. The first rum to hit the market will be a white rum.” Roberts uses both a pot still and a short column still for distillation. The rum passes through eight copper plates, which smoothes the rum. By using the column, Roberts says, he can extract the heart of the rum. The first part of each distilling run and the last part, called the tail, are discarded because they are not as high in quality as the middle part of the run, or heart. This ensures he gets the best of each run. “I’m extra cautious. I probably throw away
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Siesta Key Rum is produced by Troy Roberts using a copper pot still, right, and a copper column, left. Photo by Booth Studios, Herb Booth, Sarasota, FL.
some good rum making sure I get just the best stuff in the middle,” he said. This focus on quality started when Roberts was growing up on Siesta Key, just off Sarasota. His family made rum cakes, something that always fascinated him. After moving away for several years, he entered the high-tech industry, and eventually made his way back to Siesta Key after having sold his successful auto-enthusiast web sites. He originally looked into marketing the family rum cake, but during his research, he found he could make his own rum. “Rum was my drink of choice, even when I was down here, long before legal age, when we were drinking rum on the beach,” Roberts confided. The decision to go with rum, without the cake, was an easy one. “I didn’t know you could set up your own small scale distillery, and when I came across that, it was like a light bulb went off! I jumped in with both feet.” “Most of the people who start their own distillery get into vodka. It’s cheaper to make and brings a higher price, so the business model is a little bit better. But rum is a whole lot cooler. And I like rum. It’s better to make something you know and like,” he said. “And with rum, there is so much you can do to impact the flavor. From the molasses you choose to the yeast you use. It’s amazing the difference the yeast makes. I’ve gone through and tested 35 or
40 different yeasts before settling on a couple of different ones.” Which yeasts is he using? Can’t tell ... trade secret. He did disclose how he selected each yeast, which gives an insight into how rum’s flavor is manipulated. “One yeast gave a great traditional rum flavor. You could still taste the molasses. But it didn’t have a good nose or front end. Another yeast I tried had a great nose and upfront taste, but nothing after that.” So he experimented with both until he got the perfect mixture of good nose, bold upfront taste, along with a good strong middle and finish. Even though he’s settled on the yeasts to use, Roberts isn’t settling on just one flavor. Once he gets the distribution chain in place, he plans on making flavored rums, on which he’s already been experimenting. “My lemon rum has been pretty popular,” among test subjects. He also plans to distill coconut rum and a banana rum, and may test an unaged dark rum. He already has started an aged rum. “They’re sitting in barrels right now. I’m using small barrels. That gives a higher ratio of wood to alcohol,” which helps speed the aging process. “I’m also using brand new American oak charred barrels, whereas the majority of rum producers use used whiskey or bourbon barrels out of Tennessee, which are bigger barrels.” The used whiskey and bourbon barrels don’t age the rum as quickly and impart flavor from the previously barreled liquid. The other thing that impacts rum’s aging is temperature. By aging the rum in the warm Gulf Coast region in an un-airconditioned warehouse, the aging process is sped up even further, reducing the time it takes to get to market. “If you have a rum sitting in the islands or Florida or Louisiana where it’s hot in the barrel, it’s going to age a whole lot quicker than a scotch that’s aged where it’s cold,” Roberts explained. All of us who live on the Gulf Coast know of the many benefits our region provides; great fishing, great boating, and great food. Now we know we have another benefit . . . a rum-aging-friendly climate. Hemingway would be proud!
International Rum Festival
Siesta Key Rum • Sarasota, FL
Rum lovers rejoice! There’s a festival made with just you in mind. The International Rum Festival, held yearly in late March in the Tampa/St. Petersburg, Florida area, combines a private rum competition with a public festival. The rum competition is held the week before the Festival, with results announced at the Festival. This year’s competition was held in Tampa’s Ybor City at the Hilton Garden Inn. It was hosted by Jack Robertiello/Drinks Ink. Judges were Arturo Sighinolfi/SWS, Luis Ayala/Rum Shop, Stephen Beaumont/World of Beer, Ian Williams/Author & Rum Pundit, Harriet Lembeck/Wine & Spirits Educator, Ben Montgomery/St. Petersburg Times and Anthony Nasso/Republic National Distributing Company. According to Dori Bryant, the creator and director of the Festival, rums are evaluated on five criteria: appearance, aroma, taste, mouthfeel & finish. Aroma and flavor rank highest in scoring, said Bryant. The Festival offers a slew of activities, with rum makers from around the world displaying their creations and offering samples. “This is a great opportunity to come meet the master distillers. It’s highly interactive,” said Bryant. In addition to the sampling and interaction, the Festival offers classes on subjects from rum basics to how to cook with rum, along with seminars hosted by industry personalities. In addition, a silent auction to benefit the Sky Ranch Foundation is also held (www.skyranchfoundation.org). In past competitions, rums have come from all over, including the Caribbean (no surprise there), Central America, Brazil, Australia (a little surprising), Madagascar (OK, very surprising) and Nepal (I’m stunned. It uses water from Mount Everest!). If ever you wanted to broaden your rum horizon, this is the place to be. Bryant herself broadened her horizons when she moved to Tampa from New York City, where she was a self-proclaimed “whiskey snob”. “It was unusual for a woman to be a whiskey snob.” Maybe because of that, Bryant got invited to a rum event in 2002 in, of all places, Newfoundland. It was her first rum competition, but definitely not her last. Bryant started the International Rum Festival in 2006. The first several Festivals took place in the historic Ybor City district of Tampa. For the fifth anniversary this year, Bryant moved the event to the elegant Renaissance Vinoy Resort and Golf Club in St. Petersburg. The rums that are entered in the competition are there by invitation only, and to keep from influencing the judges, the names of the distilleries participating is kept secret. (For the experience drinker, the answer to the question you’ve been mulling is no, the judges don’t swallow. They taste the rum in their mouths, then spit it out. I wondered, too.) The International Rum Festival is but one of the festivals Bryant produces. Her company, The Polished Palate, hosts Tequila festivals in San Diego and New York, as well as a Spirits of America show in Las Vegas. She also recently hosted a Cigars and Mojitos Social in Tampa. In the past, she’s also hosted vodka and gin festivals. This lady knows how to live! (www.polishedpalate.com) If you want to know how to select and drink rum, you won’t find a better educational opportunity than at the International Rum Festival. The variety and quality of rums on display is amazing. And there aren’t many places where you have the chance to sample so many high quality rums.
Galveston Sea Splash
Wedge of fresh grapefruit (best: Texas Sweet or Ruby Red) 3 cucumber slices Sprigs of mint 1.5 oz of Railean White Rum 1 oz of lime juice .5 oz simple syrup Splash of lemon-lime soda Muddle grapefruit, cucumber & mint. Fill a cocktail shaker with ice, add rum, juice and simple syrup. Shake. Add a splash of lemon-lime soda and strain into a tall glass. Garnish with cucumber slices.
Green Parrot Daiquiri
2 sprigs of fresh thyme 1 tsp sugar .5 oz pear liqueur 1.5 oz Railean White Rum .5 oz fresh lime juice Lime wedge & thyme sprig for garnish Muddle thyme in shaker. Fill with ice and add sugar, rum, pear liqueur and lime juice. Shake and strain into a martini glass. Garnish with lime wedge and thyme sprig if desired.
Pepperita
2 oz Treaty Oak 1 oz fresh lime juice 1 oz simple syrup 3 fresh jalapeno slices 3 oz club soda Shake first three ingredients & two of the jalapeno slices for roughly 15 seconds. Strain over ice, top with club soda and garnish with remaining jalapeno slice.
Cosmic Cowboy
1.5 oz Treaty Oak 1 oz Cointreau 1.5 oz cranberry juice .5 oz fresh lime juice Shake all ingredients with ice and strain into a chilled martini glass.
Who Dat Punch
2.5 oz O.N.O.R. Crystal 6 oz Orange Juice 1 oz Lemon Juice 1 Tbsp Simple Syrup 1 oz Peach Schnapps Dash of Bitters Shake well and serve over ice.
Streetcar # 9
2 oz Old New Orleans Cajun Spice Rum 1 oz Cointreau .33 oz lemon juice Shake with ice. Wet rim of a cocktail glass with lemon, then coat with a sugar and cinnamon mixture. Strain drink into glass, garnish with a lemon twist & a dust of cinnamon.
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Zafra master Reserve • miami, FL
“
RECIPES
A Rum OLDER THAN mOST COLLEGE STuDENTS
Gardner Blandon and his partner, Lazaro Carbajal, of Dana Wine and Spirit Importers in Miami are excited. They sense the momentum building for rum. “There’s a lot of optimism in the (rum) category. Consumers are definitely pulling it off the shelves,” Gardner said. “There are more and more brands coming into the states. And you are seeing brands from smaller outfits coming in and making a name for themselves. They’re catering to the upscale consumer, the single malt drinker, your cognac drinkers.” The smaller outfits are labeled rum micro-distilleries and are popping up across the country. The rum market is growing in breadth and depth. Gardner has a stake in that market. Not only does Dana Wine and Spirit Importers bring in existing foreign brands, Dana has created its own brand of rum, Zafra. “‘Zafra’ is the Spanish word for the harvesting of the sugar cane,” explained Gardner. The title is a little tribute to the source of all rum, the workers who grow and cut the cane. And to make sure the tribute is worthy, the Dana partners selected a Master Ronero, or master rum maker, to create a 21 year old rum officially titled Zafra Rum Master Reserve 21. Their Master Ronero is Francisco “Pancho” Fernandez, who creates the rum at his distillery in Panama. Pancho Fernandez was a Master Ronero in Cuba before defecting in the late ’80’s. Zafra Master Reserve 21 is made from Panamanian sugar cane, which is fermented into cane syrup, then distilled in a column still. Next, the rum is cured in select American “Bourbon-cured” American oak casks. “Bourbon makers can only use a barrel one time, then they sell it. Using the bourbon cured casks gives the rum a sweetness and a little bourbon taste,” said Gardner. “Rum is a great spirit. It’s so versatile. It can pretty much cover the taste profiles, anywhere from a vodka to a cognac. You can have a very neutral cane rum that is great for mixing any time of cocktail, and you can have a complex, dark, beautiful aged rum that can compare and go toe-to-toe with the finest Zafra Drink Recipes: Are you cognacs in the world. So it is very diverse,” said kidding? It’s 21 years old! Gardner. All it needs is a glass and ice! Central American countries make very good rums, and are making a name for themselves all over the world, especially with their aged rums. These aged rums, like Zafra, offer a very sophisticated drinking experience. They’re not the kind of rum you’d want to make a Mai Tai with. They’re for sipping, not for using in umbrella drinks. Zafra is a great example of this type rum and if you’ve grown up with nothing but mainstream white rums, it will definitely open your eyes to a broader rum experience. It’s enough to get excited about. Zafra Rum is available in better liquor stores in Texas, New Orleans, and Florida.
www.coastline-properties.com
The
Villas of
Padre
fishing • golfing • beach combing – right in your backyard!
www.thevillasofpadre.com
THE VILLAS OF PADRE – LUXURY AT ITS BEST ON NORTH PADRE ISLAND it’s about a better way of life, in a better place to live. on the island, where the bustle of the city is left behind, where the life is less hurried and more in tune with nature, and where you find yourself closer to the ones you love. the villas of padre lies on premium waterfront property just minutes to the gulf of Mexico via the new packery channel and minutes to the beach. with 20 spacious 3-bedroom, 2 1/2 to 3 1/2-bath villas, exclusivity and
beauty are escorted to the forefront of coastal living. an extraordinary setting and panoramic views of the gulf of Mexico, corpus christi bay and city skyline at night make this an unsurpassed location. the villas of padre sets the islands’ high water mark for luxury in a gated waterfront community. the spacious floor plans mixed with location, style, waterfront elegance plus amenities of private elevators, roof terraces and much more make this “barefoot luxury” at its finest.
Discover The Villas of Padre, call Bethany Bell, REALTOR® (361) 658-1092 or (800) 256-6739
food&dining
STORY AND PHOTOS BY CRAIG ROGERS
足74 | SPRING 2010 GULFSCAPES.COM
food&dining
Port Aransas, TX
mOBY DICK’S, A WHALE OF A TALE
This is how a small beach town restaurant and bar is supposed to look! Life-size fake shark, life-size fake pirates, ship’s figureheads, dingy’s on the ceiling, crab traps, giant clams, real nautical artifacts spread throughout . . . it just doesn’t get any beachier than this! It took years to accumulate all the decor, but it’s all come together now for Ed Ziegler and his creation, Moby Dick’s. The story of how Ed got here is as interesting as the adornments on his walls. It involves living under a pier, selling crabs and painting nightclubs and movie sets. Ed was born in San Antonio. He had a less than happy childhood. His mom died when he was six. His dad, who was 56 when Ed was born, had a hands-off approach to parenting. Ed came to Port Aransas one summer for a vacation with his older brother, but his brother ran off and left him. The police picked him up and called his father. “They said, ‘Sir, did you know your 16 year old son is running up and down the beach and living underneath the
pier?”, tells Ed. “My dad asked, ‘Is he stealing anything?’ They said no. So my dad said, ‘Call me if he starts stealing or something.’ Then he just threw the phone on the hook.” So Ed had to figured out how to support himself. He struck up a joint venture with Jetty Betty the Beachcomber. “She used to comb the beach and go up and down the jetty catching jewfish and stuff,” Ed explained. “We had a business going back then. I’d catch fiddler crabs for Betty.” Betty would sell them for bait. Ed got a penny a crab. Once, Ed had been picked up by the police. Not good for Betty. “Betty was out of fiddler crabs, so she went down there to the police department. Chief of Police Patrova, she used to babysit him. And she took and twisted his ear and said, ‘Let that boy out right now!’ and he was screaming ‘AAAAHHH!’, so he went over and opened up the cell and she took me and dropped me off and told me, ‘I’m out of crabs. Go get’em Ed.’” Ed has a super secret technique for catching the crabs, but declined to allow us to
Opposite page, The oysters are freshly shucked, and the beer is cold. Above, Dead men tell no tales at the Tiki Bar. Ed Ziegler, the owner, isn’t so constrained. A conversation with Ed is part of the attraction of Moby Dick’s. The Tiki Bar features a stage for live music, an inlaid bar, and a ship’s bowsprit.
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Moby Dick's Restaurant • (361) 749-9447 517 S Alister St, Port Aransas, TX
Ed Ziegler, the mastermind behind one of the best Tiki/Pirate bars on the Gulf Coast. The gentleman to Ed’s right is not related.
publicize it. Trade secret. After a successful career as a crab catcher, Ed discovered he had a talent for painting and creating unique decor. “I was a sign painter for years. Had my own company. Painted signs, lettering on boats and even a water tower. And I decorated a lot of the Midnight Rodeo nightclubs around the country. I worked for TriStar Productions out of Hollywood on a film. I did almost all the prop work for “The Legend of Billie Jean”, which was filmed in Corpus Christi and starred Helen Slater.” Ed then moved on to his next career as a bar, grill and souvenir shop owner. Moby Dick’s started out in a little building along South Alister Street. “We owned a little souvenir shop that we’d built out of Bobby Ray’s Beer Joint that used to be out there. We turned that into the original Moby Dick’s Bar and Grill and a souvenir shop,” explained Ed. “It went for a lot of years. Then we bought this old warehouse (right behind the shop) from a man named Mac. It was pretty much abandoned. Then we just started coming in here and renovating it into a souvenir shop/restaurant. We built it ourselves, my wife and kids. It took me two years just to get the permit here. Don Huff got me the permit cause he could see this place’s potential. We just kept struggling along, doing what we could. The souvenir shop would finance the construction of the restaurant. So when we finally opened, we were using plastic knives 76 | SPRING 2010 GULFSCAPES.COM
and forks for steaks and seafood. Some people would laugh, others thought it was great. Some of those are still our best customers.” The atmosphere puts Moby Dick’s in a class by itself. Accumulating all the decorations took years, but that’s in keeping with a beachcomber’s style. “I was a beachcomber,” says Ed. “I was never a beach bum, I was a beachcomber. There’s a difference, you know. I could comb the beach and find things. When I was a kid, I would whittle a piece of driftwood and sell it to the tourists.” Ed’s beachcombing experience led to many of the artifacts displayed in his business, but many came from other sources. As Ed tells it, “There was a dear old friend of mine that used to hire me when I was a beachcomber. His name was Frenchy the Beachcomber. He had a famous restaurant on North Padre Island for years called Frenchy the Beachcomber’s. I did most of his artwork for years. When Frenchy came over here he couldn’t believe it. He said, ‘Ed, you have no idea what you’re sitting on. This is gonna take off!’ Frenchy and I were gonna work together on this and we’d reached a deal. But about three days later, I found out he had died. His wife called me. It was devastating for her. She just started giving me all these artifacts. She tried to sell it at first, but couldn’t get a decent price. So she came over one day and said she wanted me to have all of Frenchy’s decorations. She said she didn’t want it and that there’s not a place Frenchy would have liked it to go better than your place. So I inherited all the nautical decorations from Frenchy the Beachcomber.” Some of the decorations are actually museum pieces. “I bought the Isle of Wight Pirates and Smugglers Museum that used to be on North Padre. The owner wasn’t making it, and he liked me. So he said it had cost him over $10,000 to ship the museum over here when he moved here, and he was going back to England and didn’t want to pay to ship it back. He needed a place to leave his family’s collection and asked if I wanted to buy it. I told him I couldn’t afford to buy a museum. But he said to just make an offer. So I did and he accepted. He didn’t have time for an auction, so I bought a pirate museum. There’s quite a bit of real nautical artifacts. There’s a gun collection on the wall in the dining room that’s real guns. Those weapons were actually taken from real smugglers.” Sometimes, Ed wouldn’t have to go look for decorations. They came to him. While he was renovating the warehouse, he said, “I would come up here in the morning and I would find stuff thrown over the fence out front and I wouldn’t even know who threw it. People would be cleaning out there houses and instead of throwing it away, they’d throw it over my fence.” Ed got a lot of great decorations through this direct deposit method. With Ed concentrating on the renovation, he needed help setting up the restaurant. “Sharon Schaffer helped me set up the first menu. Then she moved on to other things,” said Ed. “I was just struggling along with other kitchen managers and then Jimmy Blegen came in and filled out an application. He was on the design team that put together the first menu for the Rainforest Cafe. I didn’t think I could afford him. I thought he was out of my league.
But he said he really wanted to move to the coast. We made a deal and Jimmy came on board. He’s a fabulous executive chef. And his wife Lisa works here, too and is awesome. She used to manage Marriotts and big stuff like that. I stumbled across them three years ago and they’re a big part of my success. They’ve really, really helped me through this whole thing. So has my family and my wife. My daughter Amanda is a manager. My son Ed, Jr. is a manager and Lisa Blegen is a manager. My daughter Jenny is the manager of the souvenir shop. I just kind of oversee the whole thing.” With all the old nautical antiques and decor, you certainly feel a connection with the mystic past. Some more so than others. Ed explains, “A friend of mine, Rick Turnquist, was in here. He came up to me and said, ‘I swear I just seen a ghost in your bathroom! Who do you know that wears a captain’s hat, rubber boots and smokes cigars?’ He said he could even smell the cigar smoke. I said, ‘Rick, that’s Frenchy the Beachcomber!’ Then he said there was another one he saw. He said she had two pool sticks and her head was bleeding. Well, I had purchased two houses right next to Moby Dicks and had them torn down. Well, one of them belonged to Shorty, and she was murdered with pool sticks - hit on the head and bled to death. There’s no way Rick could have known that! There’s tons of weird stuff that’s happened here. Gates would open by themselves and other weird stuff.” Let’s see, we already had a great nautical/pirate/beach decorated bar and grill with a great chef, now we find out it’s haunted. You can eat a great meal, drink a cold beer, watch hot music AND hunt ghosts? What’s not to love about this place? Enter Moby Dick’s at your own risk! Fresh seafood is just one of the offerings at Moby Dick’s in Port Aransas. Great bars, live music and a superb gift shop are also on tap. The nautical decor is so abundant, you’ll have a tough time focusing on your plate. Ed made some, bought some and inherited some of the furnishings.
Cosmo’s Restaurant has an easy-going atmosphere with a neighborhood pub vibe that makes everyone feel welcome. Opposite page, left, the Trellis Room, located in the historic Battle House Hotel is the only AAA Four Diamond rated in Mobile. Top right, Cosmo’s Restaurant. Bottom right, Pirate’s Cove, a great choice when you want to bring your dog along for the evening.
Story by Jennifer Kornegay
food&dining
F
rom Mobile all the way down to the sugar-sand beaches, the Alabama Gulf Coast area has countless restaurants with many ways to satisfy your hunger. Each brings its own specialties and own personality to the table, so with the multiple options available, how do you choose the place that’s ready and able to conciliate your current craving? As always, Gulfscapes is here to help. To make it simple, we’ve assembled a handy dandy list of beach (and beyond) eateries and placed them in convenient categories. So here are our picks for the best places to…
MAKE YOURSELF AT HOME
ROUGH IT
SPLURGE!
cosmo’s restaurant– if being at the beach
the Flora-bama– the flora-bama’s oyster bar & grill is technically in florida, but your kid could easily throw one of its delectable fried pickles over into alabama, so we’ve included it anyway. it is a downright dive, but that’s a huge part of its appeal. you won’t find linens on the tables, and there’s sure to be sand on the floor, but you will find delicious versions of seafood shack standards like fried shrimp, oyster po’ boys and fried crab claws. and sitting just steps from the surf, it’s the best deal you’ll find on the beach. 17401 Perdido Key drive, Pensacola, Fl
the trellis room– an elegant experience is always on the menu Mobile’s only aaa four diamond rated restaurant, the trellis room at the battle house hotel downtown. while this evening out will cost you, it’s well worth it. indulge in sophisticated, contemporary décor amidst the historic hotel and “chef-inspired” cuisine with a northern italian influence. the menu changes often, but a dish like caramelized day boat scallops with wild mushroom risotto is just one example of the delicious offerings. 26 north royal street , Mobile, al
alone wasn’t enough to relax you, a visit to cosmo’s will melt away any residual stress. the easy-going atmosphere has a neighborhood pub vibe that makes everyone feel welcome. a guy strumming guitar and outdoor seating on a large deck are reason enough to visit, but the spectacular sushi pushes this place to the top of the list. and if you’re wondering about the doggie décor, it was inspired by cosmo’s namesake, a black lab rescued by the restaurant’s owners. 25753 canal rd., orange beach, al
GULFSCAPES.COM SPRING 2010 | 79
Above, Guy Harvey’s. Opposite page, Top L-R, Cobalt and Lulu’s. Bottom, L-R, Tacky Jack’s and King Neptunes.
GO NATIVE lulu’s at homeport Marina– lulu’s is the creation of perhaps the area’s favorite famous daughter, lucy buffet (musician Jimmy buffet’s little sister). chef lucy returned home after some time in los angeles and opened lulu’s on the intracoastal waterway. the food is fresh and prepared with lots of lucy’s love, but it’s the laidback pace and the bay breeze blowing across the deck that bring people back. 200 East 25th avenue, gulf shores, al, lulubuffett.com
King neptune’s– eat like a local at King neptune’s, one of gulf shores’ oldest and most popular restaurants. after just one spoonful of the creamy, flavorful corn and crab bisque, you won’t notice the lack of designer décor or the tight squeezes in the tiny space. try favorites like bacon-wrapped stuffed shrimp (an instant heart attack, but at least you’ll die happy) or the tart and tangy west indies salad. 1137 gulf shores Parkway, gulf shores, al
BRING A FRIEND Pirate’s cove– we mean a four-legged one. in fact, if you arrive pirate’s cove Marina without a dog in tow, you may be in the minority. scallywags of all shapes and sizes are welcome. hordes of 80 | SPRING 2010 GULFSCAPES.COM
people and their pets congregate on the ricketylooking deck adjacent to the marina, sipping bushwhackers (a thick, chocolaty milkshake/cocktail) while waiting for their “cheeseburger in paradise.” a tiny kitchen turns out burgers that are legendary; some claim they inspired Jimmy buffet’s famous song. the truth of this is irrelevant, one bite and you are in hamburger heaven. everybody comes for the food and “pirate” environment, but the fact that you can enjoy it all with fido just sweetens the deal. 6664 county road 95, Elberta, al, piratescoveriffraff.com
Voyagers– inside the perdido beach resort, voyagers is the classic fine dining establishment on the alabama gulf coast. staying true to its philosophy of using only the freshest local ingredients, voyagers consistently serves authentic tastes of the area’s bounty. reservations are highly recommended. 27200 Perdido beach blvd., orange beach, al
OGLE AWAY guy harvey’s island grill– guy harvey’s at the wharf is the perfect place to ogle, but you won’t be leering at bikini bodies. you’ll be gawking at boats—big boats. this relatively new restaurant’s outside seating offers a straight-shot look at
the wharf’s marina. of course, a diverse menu and the adjacent museum and retail shop showcasing the works of famed fisherman artist guy harvey are a big draw too. 4851 Wharf Parkway, orange beach, al, guyharveysislandgrill.com
OVERDO IT ON OYSTERS doc’s seafood shack and oyster bar– briny and slightly sweet and prepared countless ways, oysters are little gifts from the ocean, and both locations of doc’s seafood shack and oyster bar are making the most of what the sea has provided. doc’s fried oysters are the area’s best. this casual joint is also reasonably priced and quick. 26029 canal road, orange beach, al or 1140 gulf shores Parkway, gulf shores, al
Wintzell's oyster house– renowned for offering oysters “fried, stewed or nude,” this Mobile hallmark started in 1938 and now has a location in orange beach too. order the oyster sampler and have it all—oysters Monterey, oysters bienville, oysters rockefeller and wintzell’s famous grilled oysters. 605 dauphin st., Mobile, al or, 24131 Perdido beach blvd., orange beach, al EAT UP THE VIEW cobalt– nibble on tasty jumbo bbQ shrimp or
crab-stuffed baby portabellas and watch the boats float by at cobalt. the restaurant’s floor-to-ceiling windows frame a picturesque vista of the bay and perdido pass. and the raised bar ensures everyone gets a good look. the water wall and touch tank full of live fish at the entrance will keep you entertained if you (somehow) become bored by the view. cobaltrestaurant.net
SKIP THE SEAFOOD san roc delicatezza– san roc deli has a wide wine selection, gourmet pizzas and great sandwiches. its perdido pass sandwich is the best non-aquatic treat on the alabama coast. tender roast beef smothered in gooey havarti cheese and kicked up with some creamy horseradish all on an onion roll. need we say more? 27267 Perdido beach blvd # 104, orange beach, al
INVITE EVERYONE the original oyster house– lots of space, fast, friendly servers and seemingly no noise restrictions make the original oyster house a best bet for families and large groups. and don’t let the kind-of campy digs fool you. they belie the establishment’s real charm—a wide array of expertly prepared seafood dishes. 701 hwy 59, bayou Village, gulf shores, al
Mikee’s seafood restaurant– Mikee’s calls itself “a place for seafood.” the lack of creativity aside, it seems Mikee was right. it may be the place for seafood. the atmosphere leaves a little to be desired, but the menu does not. try the grilled triggerfish or captain ed’s sautéed scallops, and you’ll easily forgive the plastic seashells. Mikee’s is truly family friendly too. 2nd avenue, East 1st street, gulf shores, al
PREPARE TO PARTY tacky Jack's– tacky Jacks has so much fun to pass around, they have two locations on the alabama coast, both set on the backwater. there’s always a crowd of happy diners and drinkers at either, so they are great spots to socialize while satiating your appetite for ample portions of yummy food. flat-screen tvs in the bar area at the orange beach location make a festive hangout for watching football games in the fall. 27206 safe harbor dr., orange beach, tacky Jack's 2 - Fort Morgan, tackyjacks.com
BE SWEET scoops old Fashioned ice cream Parlor– take a break from the beach and cool off with an ice cream cone at scoops, one of gulf shores’ tastiest traditions for 25 years. this popu-
lar little nook has over 36 flavors of the cold, creamy stuff that are certainly worth screaming for. 100 W. 6th ave, gulf shores, al
SHOW UP HUNGRY Wolf bay lodge– now in its new location (at Zeke’s Marina) after the original building burned in a tragic fire, wolf bay lodge is still serving up heaping helpings of seafood and steaks. this local treasure keeps things casual, and at lunchtime, wolf bay’s sensational salad bar is not to be missed. if you just got off one of the fishing charters stationed at the marina, wolf bay will clean and cook your catch for you. 26619 Perdido beach blvd., orange beach, al
gulf shores steamer– if you want to eat your fill but avoid the extra calories that come with fried foods, gulf shores steamer is the place for you, dishing up piles of steamed seafood that’s been voted some of the best in gulf shores by southern living and usa today. true foodies will appreciate the unadulterated flavors of royal red shrimp, crab and fish that come through thanks to the simple steaming. go for a bucket of shrimp if you’re really starving. 124 West 1st ave., gulf shores, al, gulfshoressteamer.com
GULFSCAPES.COM SPRING 2010 | 81
2010 New World Wine & Food Festival
Premier Wine & Food Experience moves from November to May Starting this year, San Antonio’s premier wine and food experience – the New World Wine & Food Festival will take place in May instead of November. The festival dates for 2010 are May 1216, with additional events scheduled to take place throughout the year. This will be the New World Wine & Food Festival’s 11th anniversary, following a record-setting 10th anniversary year in 2009. “We are moving the New World Wine and Food Festival dates to coincide and partner with The Valero Texas Open in May 2010 and we are delighted to be moving in such a unique direction,” said Suzanne Taranto, President/CEO of the NWWFF. “Our new dates and this creative partnership will allow us to offer multi-faceted outreach to sponsors, visitors, chefs, wineries and more with incredible potential for growth and expansion.” The Valero Texas Open will be played the week of May 11-17 and has moved to the fabulous
new TPC San Antonio and JW Marriott San Antonio Hill Country Resort & Spa in northeast San Antonio for the tournament. “The Valero Texas Open is much more than a professional golf tournament: it is an experience,” said Tony Piazza, President & CEO, Valero Texas Open. “Partnering with the New World Wine & Food Festival, and collaborating on events, is a wonderful opportunity to elevate our sponsor, player and spectator experience. We couldn’t be more thrilled with the collaborative efforts and the events we have planned. Plus, these events are additional ways to raise funds for charitable organizations in our community, which matches our overall mission.”
Get a taste of festival sponsorships. Highlight your business at the tastiest events in town. For more information or to purchase a ticket package, call 210-822-9555. The Valero Texas Open has been a San Antonio tradition since 1922. The third oldest tournament on the PGA TOUR, it attracts many of golf’s top players and an international television audience through coverage by CBS and the Golf Channel. Together with the Valero Texas Open Benefit for Children Golf Classic, millions of dollars are raised to help support deserving charities. The NWWFF is a non-profit organization promoting San Antonio as a premier wine and food destination and supporting local students in culinary arts and food related aid organizations. For additional information about the festival, visit www.nwwff.org or call 210-822-9555.
May 12-16, 2010
New World Wine & Food Festival Events Visit www.nwwff.org more details.
May 12, 6-8 p.m. Sip, Savor & Shop, The Shops at La Cantera: The Shops at La Cantera host an event that features wine tasting, hors d’oeuvres, shopping discounts and gifts. Event includes: a Festival Fashion Guide, cooking demos, live entertainment and door prizes. VIP Bubbles Event - Taste your way through bubbles and more bubbles with hors d’oeuvres to complement your experience. Then enjoy Sip, Savor & Shop. May 13, 6 p.m. Burgers, BBQ & Beer, JW Marriott: Shameful enjoyment awaits you at the annual Burgers & Beer Event with barbecue added in this year held at the JW Marriott. Chefs put a new spin on the backyard classic, meat plays a starring role but look for noteworthy and significant exceptions too. Craft beer awaits you for a casual discovery of gourmet delights and an event worthy of being part of a culinary extravaganza. Wines & spirits as well. 7 p.m. Winemaker Dinners (Price varies, Various Locations, Reservations must be placed directly with the restaurants.) Dine at San Antonio’s top restaurants as chefs work with winemakers from around the globe pairing the best bottles with delectable cuisine. May 14, 11:30 a.m., Becker Vineyards Winery Lunch, Becker Vineyards: The Beckers host visiting winemakers & pair their wines with multiple courses to create a delicious afternoon in the vineyard. 7 p.m., New World Grand Tasting, The Grotto at the Henry B Gonzalez Convention Center: Treat yourself to a night in downtown San Antonio. As you stroll along the serene River Walk, prepare your palate for discovery. Sample seafood, freshly grilled meats, vegetarian specialties, trend oriented fare, decadent desserts and so much more as San Antonio’s finest chefs prepare just the right amount to pair with an array of wines and beverages to sample. The sheer scope of the evening will be decidedly high end from the moment you arrive and receive your festival glass, through lively entertainment and food and wine pairings – the beauty of San Antonio luxuriously awaits you. May 15, Wine Seminars and Cooking Demos TBA, 11 a.m. Bloody Mary’s: Your guide to the morning after, this Bloody Mary Extravaganza will help prepare you for the rest of the week’s events and get you on track and wide awake with a little spice and a Mixologist to guide your journey. 6 p.m. The Best of Mexico, JW Marriott: Rediscover your passion for rich flavors infused with colorful culture as trends are shared and demonstrated celebrating all the treasures of Mexican haute cuisine. Satisfy your cravings for the exotic as you are transported to the various regions of Mexico & lose yourself in entertainment & wines to sip & savor along with the warm hospitality of San Antonio. May 16, 1 p.m, Totally Texas, Rio Cibolo Ranch: Take a lovely drive to one of the most beautiful ranches in Texas! Bring the family and spend an afternoon discovering exotic recipes, sampling cuisines from some of the most exciting restaurants. Culinary, wine and lifestyle seminars are offered throughout the day for those who want to know more. Beer and BBQ play a large role too! All ages are welcome with family friendly activities including hayrides, barge rides, storytelling & more. Live entertainment keeps things festive as Texas vendors join in to celebrate the unique and amazing products Texas has to offer. It’s the perfect finale to the Festival with the beauty of a Texas ranch as a glorious backdrop and all the best food & wines.
The River Walk also leads to La Villita, (bottom left) a historic arts village originally established by Spanish soldiers stationed at the Alamo. Top left, River Walk during the day. Directly below, dining on a River Boat.
SAN ANToNio—A WoRld oF diSCovERy an Antonio’s well-known River Walk is a gateway to cul-
campus dedicated to the instruction of Latino cuisine. The
tures and times past. Prepare to trek to 19th-century
Pearl’s shops seem more like galleries and its restaurants
breweries reincarnated into urban masterpieces and his-
are artfully tucked within the landscape, offering tastes
S
toric villages built by European settlers. Here, the past and present have mingled to create the charm, character and festive atmosphere that can only be—San Antonio, Texas.
from Italy to the street foods of Mexico. The River Walk also leads to La Villita, a historic arts village originally established by Spanish soldiers stationed at the
Once a major brewing town, San Antonio has numerous
Alamo. It was later built up by German settlers who constructed
breweries that have been not only preserved, but also repurposed.
charming residences that have been converted into galleries,
The castle-like Lone Star brewery, built in 1884, is now home to
shops and cafes. Downriver, the historic King William neigh-
the San Antonio Museum of Art, which houses history of its
borhood also boasts residences crafted by German artisans.
own. Within its enchanting rooms, guests can find an unparal-
Here, Greek Revival, Victorian and Italianate styled mansions
leled collection of Latin American Folk Art as well as one of the
are nestled in tree-lined streets aside cafes and galleries.
finest Asian art collections in the nation.
The River Walk is currently being extended to connect four
Upriver, the Pearl Brewery, built in 1883, has become the
of the city’s captivating missions. Erected in the 1700s, these
city’s “it destination” for shopping, dining and even learning.
limestone feats comprise the nation’s largest concentration of
This eclectic spread hosts the Culinary Institute of America’s
Spanish colonial missions. Hike or bike from mission to mission
Photo of dining on boat by Berne Broudy | SACVB
travel spotlight | san antonio
A N O T H E R D AY I N S A N A N T O N I O I S N E V E R A N O T H E R D AY I N S A N A N T O N I O . Like the story of San Antonio, Festivo is our Spring Season of Festivals. Part Mardi Gras, part Carnival, it’s a joyous mix of fine art and fine wine. Pageants and parades. Kings and Queens. Majorettes and Mariachis. Jazz and Tejano concerts. It’s artful. Cultural. Colorful. Fun. Festive. With Fiesta San Antonio as our crown jewel, which dates back to 1891, Festivo is Spring’s most colorful weave of sights, sounds, tastes and traditions. Deep. In the heart.
©2010 by San Antonio Convention & Visitors Bureau.
F E S T I V O .V I S I T S A N A N T O N I O . C O M
800-THE ALAM O
travel spotlight | san antonio GULFSCAPES’ FAVORITE PLACES TO DINE IN SAN ANTONIO PAESANOS on the RIVER WALK, 111 W. Crockett, Suite 101, River Walk, 210-2272782, Recommended: Shrimp Paesanos | VIET NAM, 3244 Broadway, 210-822-7461, Recommended: Crab Claws, Spring Rolls and Lemon Grass Chicken ALDACO’S at SUNSET STATION, 100 E. Hoefgen Ave., 210-222-0561, Recommended: Shrimp or Chicken with Chipotle Sauce and Cilantro Sauce | THE LONGHORN CAFE, 17625 Blanco Rd., 210-492-0301, Recommended: Cheeseburger and Onion Rings
on Mission Trail. If you want to delve into the city’s cultural offerings, try visiting during one of the city’s acclaimed festivals. San Antonio kicks off every spring with Fiesta, an 11-day celebration of San Antonio’s history and culture with parades, street parties, carnivals and more. May hosts the New World Wine & Food Festival, a celebration of San Antonio as a premier wine and food destination. Summer heats things up with the Texas Folklife Festival, which brings together over 40 ethnic groups that influenced the region. If you really want to fall for the culture of San Antonio, stop in for The International Accordion Festival and Día de los Murtos celebrations in autumn. No matter when you come, there’s always something to enjoy in this South Texas treasure. Request a complimentary San Antonio Travel & Leisure Guide at visitsanatnonio.com or by calling 800THE-ALAMO.
San Antonio’s well-known River Walk is a gateway to cultures and times past. Prepare to trek to 19th-century breweries reincarnated into urban masterpieces and historic villages built by European settlers. Here, the past and present have mingled to create the charm, character and festive atmosphere that can only be—San Antonio, Texas.
galveston historic homes tour, goin Galveston Historical Foundation (GHF) has been at the heart of an extraordinary preservation movement on the island for more than 50 years. Since its inception in 1954, GHF has saved hundreds of Galveston’s most important treasures--from humble shotgun houses to Craftsman-style bungalows to nationally significant mansions, sacred landmarks, commercial buildings and maritime artifacts. Every year, in order to showcase the continuing success of the city’s revitalization efforts, GHF opens a diverse collection of restored homes and other buildings to the public during the first two weekends in May. GHF begins a new era in its nationally renowned preservation efforts with the 36th Annual Galveston Historic Homes Tour. Among 10 houses that will be opened to the public during the annual historic homes tour is the “Green Revival House,” an 1890s shotgun-style house being restored by GHF in partnership with the National Trust for Historic Preservation. The house is one of the first in the nation conness-arnold house, 1899. this Queen planned to give the public a vivid look at how energy-saving and “sustainable” building and landscap- anne style house features rounded double galleries, rimmed with lintels and replete with ing features are becoming essential and affordable parts of all restoration blueprints. radiating ball spindles. tall windows and wrap The tour also emphasizes “historic green architecture,” the building methods developed to make around porches on the east and south side of homes more comfortable before the luxuries of electricity, municipal water systems and natural gas were the home face the prevailing gulf breezes. widespread. Before they had electric fans, owners of many of Galveston’s oldest homes relied on floorto-ceiling windows that could be thrown open to catch every available breeze. Spacious hallways and staircases helped air circulation. Cisterns caught rainwater for drinking, cooking, bathing and irrigation. This year’s homes tour sets the tone for GHF’s future restoration programs—to help the public find affordable old homes for restoration while keeping them informed of the best ways to preserve historic green features and incorporate modern green features. Advance tickets are $20, or $15 for Galveston Historical Foundation members. (Member tickets are sold only at GHF Headquarters, 502 20th Street.) Beginning May 1, 2010, the first day of the tour, tickets are $25. Special rates are available for group tours. For more information on advanced ticket sales call 409-765-7834. Separately ticketed special events will augment the 2010 tour, including “First Impression: An Evening Preview” on April 30 and the annual Linen and Lace Mother’s Day Brunch on May 9. Additional information on the special events will be announced as details are finalized.
(l-r) James and Jessie Fendley cottage, 1885. renovated and restored using recycled and repurposed materials purchased from architectural salvage warehouses in galveston and houston. James and Ella davis house, built in 1899 for galveston daily news reporter James ‘nat’ davis, and designed by renowned german architect charles bulger. archibald and alice campbell house, circa 1871. a grand italianate mansion never opened to the public before and still owned by campbell family descendants. Fernand lobit tenant house, 1909. this high-raised victorian townhouse retains original stained glass panels, fireplaces, woodwork and working transoms, which allow ventilation and air flow.
ng green–What’s old is new again! art of Eugene aubrey: during the green revival homes tour, ghf will welcome renowned florida architect and artist eugene aubrey, who designed houston’s wortham theater center and the philharmonic center for the arts in naples, fl. aubrey has created wonderful hand drawings of some of galveston most important historic homes. homes tour ticket holders will be able to meet Mr. aubrey at the James and Jessie fendley cottage, 1403 tremont (23rd), saturday, May 1 and 8, from 11 am to 3 pm. First impression Preview Evening tour, friday, 5:30 to 9 p.m., april 30. enjoy an east end historic district stroll that includes a wine and cheese reception from 5:30 to 7:30 at the imposing 1890 trube castle. other houses open exclusively for the first impressions preview tour include 1605 sealy avenue, highlighted in the May 2009 issue of houston house and home magazine; the thomas chubb house at 1417 sealy avenue, an antebellum home built for a civil war blockade runner; and 1416 broadway, built in 1916 for the carl c. biehl family, this house was owned by family descendants until 2009. ticket holders are also able to preview the 1909 fernand lobit tenant house, 1310 sealy avenue, one of the ten homes on the 2010 historic homes tour. tickets are $60 per person and include a historic homes tour ticket. lemonade lunches at custom house, 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., saturdays, May 1 and 8. gourmet boxed lunches and fresh lemon-ginger mint coolers will be served in the beautiful 1861 custom house courtroom. adorned with heirloom quilts as part of the “bogan-wilson” Quilt exhibit, guests will enjoy the lovely setting as an entertaining lecture is presented by susan bogan and dawn wilson during the meal. lunch boxes consist of sandwiches on fresh croissants, filled with either tarragon chicken salad, homemade pimento cheese, turkey and cheese or ham and cheese; potato chips, fresh fruit and homemade lemon bars for desert. lunches must be ordered in advanced. $20 per person. advance reservations required.
bike through history, sunday, May 2, 10 a.m., 1861 custom house, 502 20th street. get on your bicycle and join ghf’s preservation services project coordinator Matt farragher for an hour of fun, biking throughout galveston’s historic neighborhoods. Matt will highlight the more than 50 years of ghf’s preservation efforts and will showcase examples of the foundation’s projects including properties saved through its revolving fund, paint pals and the community housing development organization initiative. protective gear is strongly suggested. $10 per person with signed waiver. advance reservations recommended. sally Wallace Preservation awards, 6 p.m., friday, May 7. ashton villa ballroom. these awards recognized outstanding projects involving the preservation, restoration, and enhancement of galveston’s historic buildings and neighborhoods. this year’s categories are restoration, rehabilitation, adaptive use, new construction/infill, craftspeople, community service award, and galveston green. $15 per person, $12 per ghf member. linen and lace, a Mother’s day brunch, May 9. celebrate Mom at the 7th annual Mother's day champagne brunch. begin your Mother's day/homes tour sunday enjoying a delectable and abundant buffet and fashion show by galveston’s own head to footsie’s boutique. the picturesque 1880 german dancing pavilion, garten verein, is the setting for this charming tradition. all patrons are automatically entered to win fabulous prize drawings including dinners, gift certificates and framed artwork. linen or lace is the preferred attire. $45 per person and includes a historic homes tour ticket. advanced reservations required. basement to attic: behind-the-scenes tours of bishop’s Palace, 5 p.m., saturdays, May 1 and 8. guests will view areas not normally open to the public in this grand structure, named the 14th most important victorian building in america by the american institute of architects. limited to 24 per tour. patrons must be able to negotiate steps and may not wear flip-flops or strapless sandals. $30 per person. advance reservations required.
DID YOU KNOW
Mark your Calendars for May 1,2,8,9 rainwater harvesting: while most modern rainwater harvesting systems are built for strictly outdoor use, historic cisterns fulfilled all the water needs of the household. Ventilation: in the absence of modern hvac units, historic buildings had countless design features that directed air movement for increased comfort. this included larger rooms with higher ceilings and walk-through windows. porches were also widely used as another room, utilizing the outdoor breezes and supplying shade. daylighting: in addition to their ventilation benefits, interior windows and transoms allowed “borrowed” light to travel across rooms, limiting the need for additional light sources. green Materials: in modern terms, historic construction materials were both locally and organically produced. landscaping: historic paths, including roads and walkways, were formed using permeable materials, such as dirt, brick, and clay, which allowed water to drain easily into the ground. Plantings: climate appropriate plants were selected for each site so as to make optimal use of seasonal shading and produce with little or no extra water requirements. Wind Power: Many areas relied heavily on windmills to generate power for farms and mills.
disaster Preparedness: Many features of historic houses were designed to limit the impact of storms. for instance, the tradition of raising houses onto piers on galveston is due in large part to early efforts in escaping flood damage. low toxicity: the lack of plastics used in historic construction spared them from one of the most prevalent sources of toxic offgassing in modern houses. reuse and recycling: historic builders often salvaged and reused brick, stone, and wood. galveston also has a history of moving houses that dates back to the mid-19th century. Floor Plans: designers and contractors considered the building’s orientation and the location of prevailing winds and sun when designing the structure. wide hallways spanning the length of the house with doors at each end further encouraged ventilation. Walkable towns: in the absence of the automobile, towns were planned for maximum walkability. out of necessity, markets and other stores with essential supplies were within walking distance and along public transportation routes. Energy use: as families throughout the country set goals to lower their energy usage, they might be inspired to remember that, not long ago, all households operated 0 kwh per month!