Chinoiseries LUNAR GALA 2018 | FEROX
Chinoiseries Modern. Playful. Dignified. Harking back to centuries of tradition, Chinoiseries reintroduces traditional clothing of asian cultures through its marriage with western references, materials and modern technology. The white and blue of Chinoiserie porcelain like delftware set the color scheme of this line, with different shades of denim representing the blue paired with white textiles of varied weights and opacities.
LUNAR GALA 2018 | FEROX DESIGNERS Gunn Chaiyapatranun Fon Kornrat Euchukanonchai Shariwa Sharada
CHINOISERIES | FEROX LUNAR GALA 2018 MODELS Bill Gao AJ Jeffs Mallika Khanna Julia Lee Jarret Lin Yuqing Ma Terrence Mims Rhea Prabhu Amaya Taylor Mia Venezia
PHOTOGRAPHER Gunn Chaiyapatranun ILLUSTRATOR & EDITOR
VICTORIAN HANBOK Julia Lee
Inspired by the Korean Hanbok and Victorian Bustle skirts. The Hanbok top is sewn in a patchwork style, with different shades of denim and other fabrics sewn together to make the sleeves. The bottom is a tight white corduroy skirt with a bustle spiraling both sides. The traditonal dress was made to cover and distort the female form but this design goes to celebrate the female form by highlighting the body through a tight skirt and seethrough material so one can appreciate the body rather than fear it.
ANGAMI Jarret Lin
Inspired by the Northeastern Indian garment, this traditional wear is worn by the tribal men of Nagaland. The top piece is created by taking a long rectangular piece of denim and wrapping it around the shoulders and arpits. For this look the top is made of heavyweight denim while the bottoms a delicate organza. It is our take on the western farmer’s overalls and a northeast Indian worker’s tribal clothing. Bringing the two together allows for a an appreciaiton in the similarities between western and Asian clothing.
AMIGASA Mallika Khanna
A fusion of Thai and Japanese garments, with modern fabrics. This look reintroduces the traditional Amigasa or woven hat used in Japanese Minyo dances and performances. The hat is upholstered with denim then threaded with a white ribbon. It is paired with a minimal interpretation of the straw coat or Mino, historically used by the Japanese for rain protection. This coat is made of heavy felted wool, exaggeratingly draped over the model. This is paired with a stamp-patterned denim Chongkraben, Thai pants are rectangular sheets of cloth, and require no buttons, zips, sewing or stitching. This mix and match of different culture’s garments and different accessories is what makes this piece interesting. The use of the Amigasa also invokes a military aura, challenging the hat as an exclusively female accessory.
KURTA KAMEEZ Terrence Mims
Inspired by traditional North indian men’s wear. This is made up of a long often intricately sewn long top, the “kurta” and a pair of loosely fitted cotton pants, the “kameez” that bunch at the ankles. Historically frowned upon and seen as a dress for men, the kurta is redefined in the design with the longer than arm length patchworked denim sleeves that add a feminine touch to a piece that was not allowed to be feminine. The shawl worn by men has been incorporated into the kurta front itself and no bottoms have been added, allowing for the redefined kurta to speak for itself.
FIFTH REIGN Rhea Prabhu
Inspired by early 20th century Thai Royal fashion during the fifth reign of the Chakri Dynasty made popular by HM Queen Saovabha Phongsri, this look includes a mnimalVictorian top, and Thai pants. The sleeves are made of puffed organza, and a ornamental sash resembling those worn as a display of royal decorations and orders. The rigidness of the top juxtaposes the softness of the Thai clothing. The bottom is made of denim to show that something that has been so westernised and seen as a very stiff material, can be used to make something so traditional and soft.
KHRUI
Bill Gao Inspired by the traditional Thai royal court dress worn by ministers when granted audience with the King. This is the clothing which the Siamese ambassadors wore when they first set foot in Europe on their audience with King Louis XIV in Versailles in 1684 and Emperor Napoleon III in 1856. It was considered the most formal of Thai clothing fit only for the most formal and royal occasions. Today, the sheer Khrui with gold lining is used as the academic regalia or graduation dress for multiple Thai universities. Here, the use of the Khrui is rebellious, worn seductively without a shirt inside and with Muay Thai boxing shorts, challenging the notion that it is a formal suit, exclusively reserved for formal occasions.
SABAI
Mia Venezia Inspired by the sabai, a shawl-like garment used by Siamese women, this look is a different take on the sabai through a change in materials, and means of wearing. The minimal construction of bubble quilted rectangular textiles and the pleated band for the breast piece makes the piece modern and exciting. This dress was designed to reveal even more of the body to allow for greater appreciation and highlighing of parts that are traditionally seen as something that should be hidden.
CHADA
Amaya Taylor The chada is a headdress that is the equivalent of a crown or tiara used in the monarchies of today’s Thailand, Cambodia and (historically) Laos and Myanmar. They feature a tall pointed spire, are made of gold and are usually decorated with mirrored glass and different gemstones.A modern and minimal take on the chada, this look is CNC milled and hand-lathed (tip). The body features a yupo paper neck piece called a Grongkor and a denim fitted tunic, finished with western ballet tights and flats. The khon performance is often translated as the Siamese ballet, so this piece also makes the connection with the dancer’s tutu.
QIPAO Yuqing Ma
Inspired by the often westernized Qipao or Cheongsam, a traditional body fitting one-piece Chinese dress originating in the 1920s. This Qipao is innovative because of its use of denim, with abstract floral patchwork patterns. The traditional cloth-knot is enlarged and placed at the back, allowing for a slight reveal. The use of denim, the ripped front and robust motifs renders the Shanghainese Qipao as an elegant, yet masculine garment.
FURISODE AJ Jeffs
Inspired by Japanese Furisode or long sleeve Kimono and the Western equestrian longtailed shadbelly coat. A masculine take on the kimono, this dress made of patchwork denim is a long-tailed equestrian jacket with hanging furisode sleeves. Paired with a patterned obi sash. The entire Kimono is made from reused second hand jeans and shirts, and the hair ornaments are handmade from different colored satin ribbons, referencing the Japanese tradition of Kanzashi ornamental flowers. This look explores the intricate nature of beautiful, handcrafted Japanese kimonos.
Special Thanks to all LG Producers and Coordinators and the URO for the 1K SURG fund without which this line would not have been possible.