LAN DSCAPE MASTER PLAN Pulaski Street
H U NGRY GNOM E GARDENSCAPES “Empowering people to grow food.”
Overview With the pressure of impending cutoff of easy access to the property, plans need to be made for the future development of the site. Property Description The property has portions of steep slopes and portions of moderate slopes. It is bordered by Pulaski Street to the west, undeveloped properties to the north and south and Pulaski Creek to the east. Vehicular access to the property is primarily through the main gate and driveway, however, at present, large truck access is also available via a gate on the property to the north which allows direct access to the north and east sides of the property. This access will be limited as soon as the property is developed beginning in September, and finally cut off when construction is completed. Guests enter through the main gate and door from Pulaski Street. Guests can also park on the driveway and enter through the greenhouse or walk up the steps from the driveway to the front entry. Client Goals: • Maintain an attractive view of the house from the street as well as the view from the house to the creek. • Improve the patio with a concrete pad, and a seating wall with grill space on the south side of the patio. • Add a water feature including multiple pools and a waterfall to the north of the patio between the patio and the house, that is large enough to hold plants and be accessible by people on a hot summer day. • Maintain the open grassy area as a meadow with some flowers (bachelor’s buttons, larkspur, zinnia)and lots of native grasses • Add more food plants including olives, blueberries, fig and blackberries. • Maintain the open view off the patio while creating a contained edge by adding only low growing plants to the east side of the patio • Future possibilities for gray water usage from the dark room • Plan for a small tool shed to the east of the dark room
Overview PU LASKI STREET
H U NGRY GNOM E GARDENSCAPES DESIGN ER: GARETH CROSBY SUMM ER 2013
2/13
STREAM
25-FT STATE WATER BUFFER
75-FT ACC RIPARIAN BUFFER
PROPERTY SETBACK
HOT, DRY & OPEN
66.5’
62.5’
SIGN IFICANT SLOPE
STUDIO PATIO
AREAS OF SHADE W ET AREA OF POOR DRAI NAGE
MAI N HOUSE
DEPICTION OF TOPO LI N ES TO I N DICATE SIGN IFICANT SLOPE
VEGGIE GARDEN AREA
HOT, DRY & OPEN
Existing conditions PU LASKI STREET
H U NGRY GNOM E GARDENSCAPES DESIGN ER: GARETH CROSBY SUMM ER 2013
3/13
Analysis Of Existing Conditions: Design Challenges, Opportunities And Recommendations • Priority 1 - locate all future project areas and define material needs as well as time frame Challenge: Steep slopes to the west of the house Design recommendations: • Plant trees at the bottom of the slope to the north of the main entry to: • protect the slope • create a lower maintenance plan for this area • grow something edible, • protect the veggie garden from deer • Further planting in the area between the driveway, the front fence and the main entry to: • create dappled shade to ease the heat of summer • protect the soil on the slope from erosion • give the front yard some privacy from the road • add some height to the garden to create a dynamic landscape Challenge: Maintain a grassy, wildflower meadow Design recommendations: • Plant islands of perennial and annual flowers - these areas take more maintenance than the grass areas so keep them separate and spread them throughout the meadow. Perennial flowers will come back every year with only weeding maintenance. Reseeding annuals need bare soil to be exposed every spring and summer in order to allow the germination and growth of their small seeds. Mulching these areas will significantly decrease the germination success of annual flowers. • Mow the meadow 2 times a year, (Summer and Winter) with a tractor or bushhog. Leave the grass in place to mulch the hillside. Challenge: The 25’ riparian buffer limits tree removal Design recommendations: • Design and install plant community along the top of the slope down to the creek before junk trees get too big. • The design should reflect local restoration initiatives with native plants Challenge: The 75’ riparian buffer limits building Design recommendations: • Keep all building outside the buffer Challenge: Sun and shade Design recommendations: • Use the Full Sun area to the east of the dark room for the olive orchard and Challenge: Area of poor drainage to north of house Design recommendations: • Build berms perpendicular to the slope to slow and collect water from the roof and the hillside. Plant blackberries on these berms.
Time Line For Design And Installation July • Design and engineer the patio and pool system • Design the gardens and their plant communities August • Build the patio and pool system including bringing in a concrete truck to poor a slab under the patio and soil for planting • Bring in any needed materials for the gardens to the east of the house where access will be difficult once the property to the north is developed • Complete any land shaping that needs to be done September/October • Install all gardens and plants
Analysis of Existing Conditions PU LASKI STREET
H U NGRY GNOM E GARDENSCAPES DESIGN ER: GARETH CROSBY SUMM ER 2013
4/13
STREAM
CREEK RESTORATION WITH NATIVE TREES SH RU BS AN D PEREN N IALS
PLAN FOR PATH FROM TH E HOUSE TO TH E CREEK
MANAGED M EADOW WITH WILD FLOW ER ISLAN DS
OLIVE ORCHARD PLANTED ON CONTOU R ON RAISED BERMS
66.5’
62.5’
STUDIO PATIO
BLACKBERRY BERMS TO CATCH WATER FROM TH E ROOF AN D GROW FOOD
MAI N HOUSE
DEPICTION OF TOPO LI N ES TO I N DICATE SIGN IFICANT SLOPE PLANT SPRAWLI NG EVERGREEN PLANTS ON SLOPE TO STABILIZE AN D TREES AT TH E BOTTOM FOR SHADE
0
Design directives PU LASKI STREET
10
20
30 ft.
H U NGRY GNOM E GARDENSCAPES DESIGN ER: GARETH CROSBY SUMM ER 2013
5/13
The Meadow
It is important to choose the meadow that will be most successful on the site you have to offer: Perennial meadows thrive best on poor soils because the grasses compete less with the wildflowers. If you have rich soil, it is worth removing the top layer and sowing directly into dug or rotovated sub-soil. Annual meadows, need rich soils. These are a good choice where you are converting an existing border. Wildflower meadows require an annual maintenance programme to allow the more desirable species to flourish and to reduce the vigour of the more rampant species. This usually involves mowing and some judicious weed control. The techniques explained below are for newly-sown and existing perennial meadows. It is important to work out whether you have (or are aspiring to) a spring or summer-flowering meadow, as this will affect what regime you choose. To look their best, meadows do need some maintenance each year. The basic process is explained below. Watering and feeding A wildflower area doesn’t require any additional watering or feeding. This could alter the natural balance of plants in the area. Many native flowers colonise poor land and the addition of extra nutrients and water will only encourage excessive vigour in the grasses, which will consequently out-compete the more desirable native plants. Mowing Mowing is one way gardeners can manipulate the range of wildflowers that grow. New meadows: To encourage perennial flowers and grasses to make good root development, it is important to mow the meadow in the first year after sowing. Cut to a height of 5cm (2in) four times during the year. Established spring-flowering meadows: Cut in July and for the remainder of the summer to reduce the vigour of coarse grasses and to allow flowers such as cowslips, fritillary, lady’s smock, selfheal and bugle to prosper. Leave un-mown from February to July. Established summer-flowering meadows: Don’t mow until late August or September, after wildflowers such as knapweed, devil’s bit scabious and lady’s bedstraw have set seed. Use this summer-flowering meadow regime for meadows with plants flowering at various times, including spring and summer species. For meadows at all stages: It is usually a good idea to leave the initial mowings in situ for a few days to allow seed to drop to the ground but then it is important to collect mowings to reduce soil fertility. Aim for the first cut to be 5-7.5cm (2-3in) high. Subsequent cuts can be lower. Many lawnmowers will struggle with long grass. Small areas can be cut with a strimmer, though larger areas are best tackled with a heavy-duty mower (e.g. sickle-bar mowers and motor scythes) or a two-wheel strimmer. The main problem that is likely to be encountered is an abundance of weeds or dominant grasses. Perennial weeds - thistles and nettles for example - can either be weeded out by hand or spot treated with a weedkiller based on glyphosate, such as Roundup or Tumbleweed. Lawn weedkillers should not be used, as these will kill the wildflowers you wish to encourage. Where grasses become dominant try sowing the annual wildflower, yellow rattle (Rhinanthus minor) which is semiparasitic on grasses. Sow this in August and keep the grass mown until March. 1 Pound perennial flower seed covers 2000-3000 square feet.
Design Details PU LASKI STREET
H U NGRY GNOM E GARDENSCAPES DESIGN ER: GARETH CROSBY SUMM ER 2013
6/13
Plant Palette Wildflowers
Knockout Rose ‘Double Red’
Pink Muhly Grass
Siberian Wallflower Shasta Daisy Lance-Leaf Coreopsis Sweet William Foxglove Purple Cone flower Blanket flower Candy tuft Blazing star Blue Flax Perennial Lupine Rocky mountain penstemon Maltese cross Mexican hat Prairie cone flower Gloriosa Daisy Black eye Susan Wild Columbine Wild Bergamot Oenothera fruiticosa Dense Blazing Star Carolina Lupine
Blueberry
Prairie Dropseed
Little Bluestem
Blackberry
Ajuga Black scallop
Dryopteris Southern Shield Fern
Ficus pumilla
Hypericum
Yucca Thread leaf
Rudbeckia ‘Goldstrum’
Mondo grass Ophiopogon japonicus
Hardy Begonia
Crysogenum
Lavender
Daffodils
Fig
Liriope silver dragon
Plant Palette PU LASKI STREET
H U NGRY GNOM E GARDENSCAPES DESIGN ER: GARETH CROSBY SUMM ER 2013
7/13
Plant Palette Continued
Pomegranate
Artemisia Silver Mound
Teucreum
Polystichum tassel fern
Ajuga ‘Chocolate chip’
Rosemary contorted
Acorus gramenoides ‘Minimums Areus’
Santolina virens
Blue star creeper
Hyacinth
Creeping Jenny
Caryopteris ‘Longwood Blue’
Arbequina olive tree
Cotoneaster glaucophyllus
Cedar
Plant Palette PU LASKI STREET
H U NGRY GNOM E GARDENSCAPES DESIGN ER: GARETH CROSBY SUMM ER 2013
8/13
STREAM
STUDIO PATIO
MAI N HOUSE
0
Slate Edging PU LASKI STREET
10
20
30 ft.
H U NGRY GNOM E GARDENSCAPES DESIGN ER: GARETH CROSBY SUMM ER 2013
9/13
STREAM
ZON E 6
ZON E 5
ZON E 6
ZON E 5&6 ‘STU B-OUTS’ AN D AUTO VALVES SH ED ZON E 7
ZON E 7 ‘STU B-OUT’ AN D AUTO VALVE
STUDIO PATIO
MAI N HOUSE 1. MASTER VALVE SH UT OFF 2. BACK FLOW PREVENTER 3. CITY WATER PRESSU RE REDUCER 4. MASTER AUTO VALVE (I N M U LCH)
ZON E 4
ZON E 1
ZON E 2
ZON E 1
ZON E 4 ‘STU B-OUT’ AN D AUTO VALVE
ZON E 2
ZON E 3
ZON ES 1,2&3 ‘STU BOUTS’ AN D 3 AUTO VALVES FOR ZON ES 1 TO 3
0
Irrigation Layout PU LASKI STREET
10
20
30 ft.
H U NGRY GNOM E GARDENSCAPES DESIGN ER: GARETH CROSBY SUMM ER 2013
10/13
DESIGN DETAILS
CREEK CHAN N EL
FUTU RE FENCE LI N E OLIVE ORCHARD ARBEQUI NA OLIVES FOR PRODUCTION
WILDFLOW ER M EADOW CAMASS LILY MONARDA RUDBECKIA CON E FLOW ER COREOPSIS LIATRIS AGERATUM 1G 3.5 N EED TO LET TH E M EADOW LOOK UGLY ALLIUM TU BEROSUM - 1G 3.5 ASCLEPIAS CU RASAVICUM QT 2.5
WILDFLOW ER M EADOW NATIVE GRASSES: LITTLE BLU E STEM PI NK M UHLY GRASS
To The Creek
EVERGREEN GROU N DCOVERS MON DO GRASS DAFFODILS
To Woody’s
LOW-GROWI NG SPREADERS AN D GRASSES BLU E STAR CREEPER COPPER SEDGE CREEPI NG J EN NY AJ UGA
SHADE GARDEN PATH SOUTH ERN SHIELD FERN RIVER OATS AJ UGA LIRIOPE GREEN AN D GOLD JAPAN ESE MAPLE
EVERGREEN FOU N DATION PLANTS TALL COLUM NAR CEDAR HYDRANGEA EN DLESS SUMM ER
BLU EBERRY AN D BLACKBERRY BERMS ARID M EDITERRAN EAN GARDEN ARBEQUI NA OLIVES CONTORTED ROSEMARY YUCCA ARTEMISIA TEUCH RIUM LAVAN DER PI NK M UHLY GRASS M EXICAN FEATH ER GRASS HYPERICUM GREEN SANTOLI NA ROSE
FIGS
0
Final Design PU LASKI STREET
10
20
30 ft.
H U NGRY GNOM E GARDENSCAPES DESIGN ER: GARETH CROSBY SUMM ER 2013
11/13
Project Description
Phase 1: • The garden slope to the north of the driveway between the driveway and the entry path from the street • The blueberry and blackberry gardens on the north side of the house • The figs at the bottom of the slope below the veggie gardens • Along the path from the driveway to the patio – 4 ft on either side • Adding mondo grass and bulbs to fill gaps under the trees • The garden around the patio and down the slope • Irrigation structure to all new garden areas and drip irrigation to newly planted areas. 1. Design $500.00 2. Slate edging around the house $2,200 3. Soil prep and blackberry trellis $3,725 4. Irrigation structure by specialist $3,100 5. Individual drip irrigation to planted beds described above $1,000 6. Plants and planting $3,900 7. Mulching $650 Phase 2: • Bulbs planted in the shade gardens • Wild flower area to the east of the patio in islands for easier maintenance • Trash platform and screen • Clearing the trash trees at the bottom of the property, on the top of the bank down to the creek, and planting with tea olive, camellia and cryptomeria or more Arbequina olive trees 1. Clearing the trash trees $1150 2. Soil prep $2,000 3. Plants and planting $1,000 4. Drip irrigation $700 5. Mulching $325 Phase 3: 1. The south side of the driveway. Once that area is no longer required for access by the neighbors and Dennis Mason, it will be planted and the Trash Hideaway will be built. $1,450 2. Trash Hideaway and screen $1,000 Total Contract Price: $15,075 Total for Phase 2: $5175 Total for Phase 3: $2,450 Estimated Phase 2 Start Date: November 15, 2013 Estimated Days to Phase 2 Completion: 5 Estimated Phase 3 Start Date February, 2014
Estimated Budget PU LASKI STREET
H U NGRY GNOM E GARDENSCAPES DESIGN ER: GARETH CROSBY SUMM ER 2013
12/13
Orchard Locations
CREEK CHAN N EL
FUTU RE FENCE LI N E OPTION 3 APPLE & OLIVE ORCHARD ARBEQUI NA OLIVES FOR PRODUCTION AN D M U LTIPLE VARIETEIS OF APPLE
OPTION 2 APPLE ORCHARD MAX 10 APPLE TREES
TO TH E CREEK
TO WOODY’S
OPTION 1 APPLE ORCHARD MAX 4 APPLE TREES
0
Design Details PU LASKI STREET
10
20
30 ft.
H U NGRY GNOM E GARDENSCAPES DESIGN ER: GARETH CROSBY SUMM ER 2013
13/13