THE SILVER KING – TARPON CAY LODGE, MEXICO / A MONTH IN SCOTLAND / ICELAND SEA TROUT / INDIA QUEST FOR HIMALAYAN GOLD / ROMANTICISM IN THE ART OF FISHING / DISCOVERING FISHING IN SLOVENIA’S CRYSTAL CLEAR WATERS / FIRST STUDIES ON THE VISION OF THE TROUT AND THE THEORIES OF DR. MOTTRAM AND J. W. DUNNE / FLYFISHING IN LAPLAND / INCA TROUT
The summer issue of H2O Magazine UK comes at the start of our main Atlantic salmon seasons in Iceland and Norway, a time of year that we love to get out on the water. At home, the main mayfly spectacle has drawn to a close but with good water reserves we expect a wonderful summer and autumn. We, once again, have collated a broad range of articles from around the world and through the ages which we hope will interest and inspire you all, and we hope that the new online platform will provide a better magazine experience.
The spring fair season is coming to an end, it's time to plan next spring's trips. We open this summer issue with an article on tarpon fishing in Mexico, a wonderful place, and we continue with some very interesting destinations such as India, Iceland, Peru, Scotland and Slovenia. An article on fishing at Battle Hill in Iceland highlights the interesting quality of fishing available from the small Island nation. The three editions of H2O magazine are growing, thanks also to the new interactive online platform from which you can directly access the sites linked to the online magazine.
Alex
Giorgio
18 40 60 70
A MONTH IN SCOTLAND
I looked to the other side of the river, to the smooth water shaded by overhanging trees, where the trout were cutting the surface ...
INDIA QUEST FOR HIMALAYAN GOLD
It had been a long held dream of mine to go to India, but why? Mostly because I love travelling and my time...
Discovering Fishing in Slovenia’s Crystal Clear Waters
Slovenia has long been a favoured destination for fly fishing enthusiasts because ...
FLYFISHING IN Lapland
Ammarnas is a small town situated in Swedish Lapland. Located in Vasterbotten, the Ammarnas city and the surroundings...
8
The Silver King – Tarpon Cay Lodge, Mexico
The Silver King. A description that can send one’s imagination spiralling. I still remember my first encounter with...
28
ICELAND SEA TROUT
It was 2020 when I got my first sea trout river in my portfolio. Since then, I have slowly managed to get the main rivers together...
54
Romanticism in the Art of Fishing
The European artistic movement labelled “Romanticism” began around 1770 as a reaction against ...
66 80
FIRST
STUDIES ON THE VISION OF THE TROUT AND THE THEORIES OF DR. MOTTRAM AND J. W.
DUNNE
Although the first references...
Inca TROUT
Peru is known for its good spots for fishing marlin, tuna and other saltwater giants, but great quality rainbow trout fishing can be found in...
Tarpon Cay Lodge,Mexico
The Silver King. A description that can send one’s imagination spiralling....
Istill remember my first encounter with the king whilst wading through the mangroves of Los Roques. Not just because these fish
refused my offering, but the gentle glide of the fish in the water did little to display regal characteristics but something much more
sedate and unassuming. It was a few years later when I decided to focus my efforts solely on tarpon along the rich coastline of the northern
Yucatan Peninsula in Mexico based from Tarpon Cay Lodge.
The lodge offers access to a huge mangrove wetland that makes up the 70km long San Felipe National Park which sits between the famed tarpon locations of Campeche and Isla Holbox. The luscious green mangrove forests give way to expansive turtle grass flats, a perfect habitat for young tarpon to thrive until they reach maturity to begin their migration tendencies. Whilst, at the right time and with good conditions it is possible to en-
counter the big migratory fish offshore it is really a place to target baby tarpon in the 5 to 30lb class in a range of scenarios.
One of the joys of the location is that the lodge is based in the sleepy fishing town of Rio Lagartos, perfect if you are looking for a quiet base away from the more touristy locations of Playa del Carmen, Tulum and Isla Holbox. The lodge have the only fly fishing boats in the region so, once on the water apart from passing the odd local commercial fisherman (who fish different areas), you are virtually the only people out on the water.
Given the remote location and protected status, the area
is alive with wildlife. Tarpon and jacks abound, saltwater crocodiles slide through the shadowy mangrove channels and the air fills with a plethora of bird species. The wildlife spectacle is heightened by the fishing hours often coinciding with sunrise and sunset, a time when tarpon feed well.
For me, it was the perfect venue to get properly acquainted with the king. Despite the fish being baby tarpon, they are certainly worthy adversaries on 9-10 weight setups. Unlike searching for bigger tarpon when opportunities might be fleeting, the fish were numerous and found in myriad areas. This afforded plenty of opportunity to learn how to spot, entice, hook, and land tarpon… or should I say, how not to! Each area explored offers intriguing and exciting scenarios to target the silver king. Early morning turtle grass flats where tarpon roll in the golden light causing their armour like scales to flash silver and gold. Deeper channels linking outside flats with the mangrove lagoons, where dark black backs slide past almost undetected. Then, perhaps the most exciting of all to a fanatical trout angler, are the narrow mangrove lagoons. The tarpon here are often heard before they are seen, splashes and plopping sounds drift out from the thick mangrove roots before the ripples and fish follow. Casting windows are brief as the fish drift into the open momentarily before heading back into the roots. Whilst traditional tarpon flies; cockroaches, toads, and the like do work in the mangroves they also run the risk of snagging up on stray roots… usually in the middle of a tarpon follow! The guides at Tarpon Cay Lodge however, love to fish with surface flies. This not only keeps the flies out of the submerged snags but the tarpon love them too. The flies of choice for this are a chartreuse gurgler and a tan Tarpon Cay Lodge Special. For the angler this adds more excitement, with each gentle pop or gurgle of the fly you early watch for any interested tarpon. The follow is often slow and lazy, just enough to keep pace until, out of nowhere, the fish busts forward, gills flaring and your helpless fly disappears in the bucket sized mouth. Once I had properly encountered tarpon; the take, the acrobatics, the strength, and that steely appearance, I now understood why they are a part of saltwater royalty and rightly named the Silver King.
A MONTH IN
SCOTLAND
“That
was a good fish,” Stewart said. “Try and take a cast from the bank.”
Georg Mc Perry
Ilooked to the other side of the river, to the smooth water shaded by overhanging trees, where the trout were cutting the surface intermittently to take mayflies that were gliding along in the foam lines. Was he joking…? That had to be 90 feet. To cast a fly that far with a 5-weight is a tall order for anyone. But to attempt to deliver a size 14 dry fly attached to a long length of 3lb tippet, in an upstream wind that’s coming into your rod arm, and expect to drop it in the choice feeding lane, and manage a drag-free drift, and actually hook a fish … well
that was just crazy. I told him I needed to get closer.
This was our third trip to Scotland in a year. Lori and I had been together 16 years, 11 of them married, and we’d never taken a real vacation together. I’d woken up one day and realised that we’d tag-teamed our way through 10 years of school—a second bachelor’s degree for me, a master’s for her, then a master’s for me followed by a post-master’s certification for her. We’d be paying student loans with our social security checks. At some point you realise that
all you have is time; this was underscored for us by the recent death of a friend at age 53 (he had grown up in England, but had never been to Scotland). That may have explained the overkill: Between May of 2017 and June of 2018, Lori and I spent 35 days in Scotland, including Hogmanay in Edinburgh, their New Year’s Eve celebration.
“George, wouldn’t you love to Spey cast on the River Spey…?” Lori had asked, dreamily, during one of her planning sessions. That’s my wife—to the manor born. If I could just get her
interested in fishing we’d each have a quiver of high-end sticks—updated yearly—we’d be dripping with Simms and Patagonia, and our excursions would make social media fishing porn look like Harlequin Romance.
“If I’m going to fish in Scotland,” I said, “I’m going to fish for something I actually have a chance of catching.” Lori found the guide. Ordinarily I’m more careful about whom I fish with than to leave arrangements to my wife. But this was a vacation—not really a fishing trip—so I wasn’t going to quibble. If I could
spend a day in Scotland casting over fish on moving water, I’d be happy. It was all set. We’d leave Edinburgh just after Hogmanay, and I’d fish the River Tweed for grayling with a guide on the 3rd.
In most cases, traveling to Scotland from the United States requires multiple flights or multiple modes of transportation. We left Boston at 2130, flying just over six hours to get into London around 0830 their time (0330 our time). From there, we navigated the London tube system to get to King’s Cross St. Pancras,
where we boarded a Virgin Atlantic train to Edinburgh. A four-and-a-half-hour train ride through the English countryside would have been pleasant enough, had it not been plagued by sleep deprivation. If you’re used to American hop grenades, you’ll find the character of Deuchars greatly subdued. Don’t let that dissuade you, as this is an excellent example of the British style of IPA.
The small village of Walkerburn, in the Upper Tweed Valley, lies an hour south of Edinburgh on the A72. Much of Scotland’s beauty
gets overshadowed by the reputation of the Highlands, but the Scottish Borders has its own unique charm that rivals any in the country, with enough history, sights, and activities to easily take up an entire vacation. When you see Scotland’s rivers it becomes clear why Spey casting was invented. The banks are often high, making aerial back casts precarious at best. The bank now was above my head and less than 10 feet behind me, the river flowing left to right. The snake roll, an oval acceleration of the rod tip that simultaneously repositions the anchor and forms the D loop, was just what the situation called for. Spey casting with a single-handed rod is not only eminently practical—it will open up water for you that was previously unfishable— it’s efficient, elegant, and beautiful to watch. But the main reason to learn to Spey cast is that it’s good for your soul.
Fishing streamers, the simplest form of the game is to cast across and slightly downstream, letting the fly swing in an arc until it’s directly below you—“on the dangle” as the locals say. With each subsequent cast you’ll strip off a few more inches of line. Once you get the entire head section outside the rod tip, then you can shoot line to make your longest casts. At this point the picture was complete: Me standing in the River Tweed with a fly rod in my hand on a beautiful afternoon in late May. The pull on the line was simply a bonus. What made it even nicer was that as it happened, Lori appeared on the bank, back from her trip to the ruins of Elibank Castle. Ordinarily Lori pays little attention to my fishing, but she knew this fish was
special: my first fish in Scotland and self-guided at that. The fish, a wild brown trout, was small enough that I had to put it on the reel. I didn’t want to risk losing it by fumbling with my phone for a photo. I grabbed the leader and followed it down, picked the fish up by the hook for Lori to see, then turned the bend upward to release it. Only then did I reach for my phone.
WILD SALMON WITHOUT BORDERS
- energising international collaboration for the restoration of wild Atlantic salmon.
The ‘Wild Salmon Without Borders’ event, part of this year's 19th International Experience the World of Fly Fishing (EWF) fly fishing show in Germany, took place over the weekend of April 13th and 14th and successfully brought together key individuals and organisations from across Europe to motivate a renewed focus on international collaboration for wild Atlantic salmon restoration. The Atlantic Salmon Trust, together with EWF show organisers, worked together to create and host the event. Expert speakers from all across Europe were brought together, including representatives from the Atlantic Salmon Trust, Missing Salmon Alliance, North Atlantic Salmon Fund (NASF), Norske Lakseelver, World Fish Migration Foundation, Fario e.V., Wanderfische ohne Grenzen e.V., Danmarks Centre For Vildlaks,
and Patagonia.
This lineup of speakers ensured that wild Atlantic salmon representation came from a range of countries, including Iceland, Norway, Spain, Germany, United Kingdom, Denmark, France, and Ireland, with speakers highlighting a variety of issues affecting wild Atlantic salmon. These included the dangers and risks posed by open net pen salmon farming, red skin disease, and barriers to migration. However the event sought not to dwell on the many problems facing wild Atlantic salmon, but to create a platform to offer positive solutions with which we can move forward. This included sharing habitat restoration case studies, successful barrier removal campaigns, the success story of the restoration of the River Skjern in Denmark, as well as how to successfully raise public awareness against unsustainable open pen salmon
farming practices.
Several short films were shown at the event, aiming to highlight the cultural importance of wild Atlantic salmon. These included the French animated film ‘Salmo’ by Paul Pajot, British animated film ‘Wild Summon’ by Karni Arieli and Saul Freed which was nominated for a BAFTA and shortlisted for an Oscar, and Patagonia’s latest film ‘Laxaþjóð | A Salmon Nation’ which tells the story of growing opposition to open pen salmon farming in Iceland. Through the newly forged international links and relationships between individuals and organisations across Europe, initial collaborations have already been planned. The aim of the symposium to promote greater cross-border co-operation and action for the recovery and restoration of wild Atlantic salmon stocks was achieved.
ICELAND
SEA TROUT
Kristján Páll Rafnsson Jess McGlothlin
It was 2020 when I got my first sea trout river in my portfolio. Since then, I have slowly managed to get the main rivers together after many meetings with the landowners. In 2023, my goal was perfected as I was now able to manage, protect and offer all of these sea trout rivers to anglers at home and abroad. There may not be many sea trout rivers in Iceland, but some of the very best are all connected to the one river system in the south of the country. This mighty glacial river is called Skaftá. It is milky and murky, and hard to imagine if the trout can actually see anything at all in this water. The visibility is almost zero, but they still run up the murky water to return to their home rivers to spawn.
Skaftá is a runoff from the Vatnajökull glacier the biggest glacier in Europe. Along its journey downstream, the river splits east and west around a lava field called Eldhraun (fire lava). After the split, the west fork gets a new name, Kúðafljót, and the east keeps the name Skaftá. Kúðafljót has one main tributary called Tungufljót. A river widely known as one of Iceland's best sea trout rivers.
The Skaftá has several tributaries in the upper part that only hold a few sea trout, but the lower you get to the system the more tributaries and more the seatrout you will find. On its way along the lava field, the glacial water filters through the porous lava, this natural filtration allows the water to resurface as crystal clear
spring water. This water creates some gorgeous and prolific sea trout rivers.
One of the smaller ones, Grenlaekur, is a small stream that flows across the Madalland lava field before rejoining the skaftá again. The junction is about 300 metres before Skaftá meets the ocean. The next river that drains through the lava field is the Eldvatn, another crystal clear river full of sea trout that meets the ocean just 500 metres west of the Skaftá. Then there is Tungulaekur, a river with just a short fishing area due to an impassable waterfall that stops the fish from going any further. The Tungulaekur junction, on the west side of Skaftá, is close to the village of Kirkjubaearklaustur where you will find the Geirlandsá which is believed to be
the main spawning river in the system. Geirlandsa is an extremely beautiful and diverse river. The lower part is sandy and slow, but as you move up the river you get faster water with a gravel bottom until you reach the canyon section that concludes with a big waterfall called Hagafoss. Here the fish can go no further. The waterfall does not usually hold fish for a long time, they like to move around and that goes for all the canyon section. One day you hike
up the canyon and every pool is teeming with sea trout, the next they can all be gone. Even so, I would always hike up there because you never know when you are going to have a canyon full of big fish. The Geirlandsa is perfect for swinging flies both with double and a single handed rods. Sometimes I have the feeling god created this river for fly fishing, it is so beautiful! The fishable area is around 10km until it meets a little spate river called Horgsa. A small stream that holds only a few fish until very late in the season. After Geirlandsa meets the Horgsa the river changes name and is called Breiðbalakvísl. Just one kilometre east of the Horgsa is the Fossalar, like many of the rivers in this area it offers huge variety. Just to make things more challenging, it also changes it name three times along its length! Let's start in the upper part, beginning its course in the Miklafell mountain where it is called Öðulbrúará. This section runs mostly across a lava field, and at one point it disappears in a lava tunnel before joining a lake called Eyjarlón. From there, the river is called Þverrárvatn, and now flows along the edge of the Selfell mountain and the Brunahraun lava field on the east bank. The lava field is on the UNESCO heritage list so you can only imagine the beauty, with the view over the largest glacier in Europe Vatnajökull. After this, it reaches a hill called Battle Hill where it finally becomes the Fossalar until it reaches the junction of Vatnamót.
We try to make it simple and call the whole length the Fossalar River. The diversity is amazing, countless pools, pockets, and waterfalls. Normally the sea trout runs up to the Eyjarlón and no further. The Fossalar is ideal for trying many fishing techniques such as; swinging, nymphing, and occasionally surface fishing.
The last section of note is the Vatnamót or “Junction”, this is where the Geirlandsa, Horgsa, and Fossalar all meet the Skaftá and create a huge Junction. This fishery is different and special. The river bed is all sand and is constantly moving, so where there was a pool yesterday can be gone tomorrow. It reminds me a bit of flats fishing, lots of wading and looking for fish. Sometimes you can find pockets in the sand full of fish and the fishing can be amazing. The best spots are where the clear water meets the milky glacial water. The fish seem to like to sit in the
mix. Wading is not essential, as in the lower section the sea trout often sit tight to the banks. Vatnamót offers about five kilometres of fishable water, all the incredible vista of waterfalls, mountains, and the biggest glacier in Europe, Vatnajökull.
We mainly just swing flies here; it is perfect water for fishing with double handed rods. Single handed rods can of course be used too. The sea trout in this system are all native and have been here for thousands of years, they
are strong and special. Over time they have endured many volcanic eruptions, big glacial floods and lava flows. This might have something to do with the strength of these fish. Not many knew how good the sea trout fish-
ing in Iceland actually was. Many of these rivers had been in the hands of local fishing clubs for up to fifty years with very few outsiders getting a glimpse. The clubs largely killed what they caught, but fortunately today we manage the
“these fish can survive a long time and return to the rivers 11 times or more.”
system with a focus on catch and release fishing and it is working. Even in a short time, we have seen the fish grow both in numbers and sizes each year.
Unlike the Atlantic salmon, these fish can survive a long time and re-
turn to the rivers 11 times or more. Usually, the sea trout return two or three times before they reach maturity. They don't travel long distances in the ocean and usually stay close to the junction, travelling no further than 70km. The first ones start run-
ning in July, but the main runs are in September. They stay over winter in the river and go back to sea at the end of May. Then they're back in the fall. Unlike the salmon, they are constantly feeding, also in the river. So, in my opinion, it is not right to call them kelts in the spring as they are still feeding and most of the time in good shape after the winter. If they are kelts, then all trout are kelts in the springtime. In 2022, we began tagging sea trout in the system in a collaboration with the fish biologist Jóhannes Sturlaugsson at Laxfiskar (www. laxfiskar.is). We have now tagged 184 sea trout and caught quite a few of them again. It is amazing to see firsthand how fast they grow;
we have seen them grow up to 15 cm in a year! I know it sounds unbelievable, but it is a fact. There movements are also quite unique, one of the fish I caught in late October 2022 in Fossalar, was then caught again on 11 April 2023 in Geirlandsá. This fish had gone down Fossalar into Vatnamot and up Geirlandsá. It was surprising to see the fish there, dispelling the
theory about fish only returning to its home river. I am excited about the research we are doing on those fish because they are completely unique.
The combination of the rivers we now call the Battle Hill Fishery. When fishing at Battle Hill we fish mainly three rivers; Fossálar, Geirlandsá and Vatnamót. Trips run for six days and rotate between the rivers throughout the week. Anglers can expect to catch fish anywhere from 2-30lb, you never know what size is going to intercept your fly. We also catch a few Atlantic salmon every fall, up to and over 20lb.
INDIA QUEST FOR HIMALAYAN GOLD
It had been a long-held dream of mine to go to India, but why? Mostly because I love travelling. Visiting Nepal gave me an introduction to this part of the world and with that, a desire to explore further. I particularly enjoy roaming remote corners of the globe world in pursuit of fish that many wouldn’t think of targeting, in this case, golden mahseer. The combination of a country so rich in history and culture, coupled with very remote fishing, targeting a little-known species, proved irresistible.
My journey in India started at Indira Ghan-
di International Airport in Delhi, a gleaming expanse of glass, polished brass and miles and miles of carpet. It is easy to navigate around and quick to get through. With several entry forms to complete before you land you will add quite a few new stamps to your passport before you are finished with formalities. As you step out of the cool and quiet airport building, you step into a very different world. It is a world of noise and heat, of colour and a kaleidoscope of smells. As you travel through the seemingly chaotic traffic, this wonderful and vibrant city unfolds around you and I was delighted that my
flight schedule meant that I had a little time to explore.
There is so much to see so do make time if you can.
From the majestic Red Fort, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, to the serene Lotus Temple, with its striking lotus-shaped architecture and tranquil ambiance. The towering Qutub Minar, an ancient Islamic monument, and Humayun's Tomb, a masterpiece of Mughal architecture, are must-visit attractions that transport you back in time. The bustling streets of Chandni Chowk, with its colourful markets and street food, provide a sensory overload of sights, sounds, and flavours. For a spiritual ex-
perience, visitors can explore the historic Jama Masjid, one of India's largest mosques, or visit the tranquil gardens of Lodi Gardens, offering a peaceful retreat amidst the bustling city. Do visit Raj Ghat, a beautifully laid out memorial to Mahatma Ghandi. The gardens surrounding the memorial are beautiful and with the hustle and bustle of the main road behind you, it is incredibly peaceful.
Leaving Delhi behind, the five hour train journey took us through fields landscaped by barley, rice and wheat. At my journey’s end, I was handed over to my driver for the trip up to Ramganga River Lodge. Set high on a bluff overlooking the Ramganga, the camp has
beautiful views in either direction. The opposite bank of the river is part of the buffer zone of Corbett National Park. Floating lines and lighter flies were the order of the day and although we had been warned that sight fishing for mahseer is a tough game, we made our way down to the river, past the temple (offering a short prayer as I passed) and across the boulders to the clear waters of the Ramganga. We could see the mahseer but they weren’t interested in anything presented to them; stripping fast or stripping slow didn’t entice them at all as I worked my way down the bank. We saw several fish rise and one jumped at one point but with the light beginning to fade, I made
my way back up to the lodge. The dogs were returning from their afternoon rambles to have their leopard collars fitted for the night. Sitting round a fire and chatting is a such an easy pleasure and with the clear sky and a canopy of stars above, one that is hard to beat.
The following morning took me into Jim Corbett National Park, India’s oldest park, established in 1936 to provide a safe haven for the endangered Bengal tiger. It is very diverse; in part hilly and heavily forested. In part marshy with riverine belts and with open grasslands surrounding an enormous lake. In days past, you could fish within the park boundaries but that is no longer possible.
Leaving Corbett behind, we set off for the river on a road that wound around and around past vertical cultivation that must have taken generations to achieve. Wild cherry trees, apple and apricot shared space with wild mangos.
The terraced hillsides way to hillsides covered with towering Scottish pines introduced by the
British for lumber. Rhododendron trees towered amongst the pines, covered in deep red blossom and as we climbed we were aware that the air was getting cooler. One last night on the journey to the river, hot water bottles were much needed.
This last leg of our journey was to the Saryu and Mahakali rivers and their beautiful, armour plated golden mahseer. We left early, climbing higher with the snow capped peaks of the Himalayas with Everest to our left. The mountainsides changed to smaller, indigenous pines which gave way to terraces with flocks of grazing sheep. Eventually, we wound down and down until finally we arrived at the police check point - the river is the border with. A short but steep walk had us down on the riverbank to be for the short journey across the river to camp.
Camp is very simple; Meru style tents, all with twin beds, covered porches front and back, fresh long drop loos (your flush is your shovel), shower tents and a bucket bath tent. There is a central dining area, with one long communal table and on slightly lower ground, the evening fire. There is plenty of iodised water for hand washing, anti-bacterial soap and, at night, a hot water bottle if you would like one. We settled in and tackled up after lunch and after a short siesta, headed out for about two hours on the stretch of the Saryu immediately in front of camp.
Up at 0700 with breakfast at 0800, we were ready to fish by 0900. With four fishing, we had a guide each and parted company to fish our separate beats. I was fishing the confluence of the Saryu and the Mahakali. For mahseer fishermen, this confluence is as famous as the Junction Pool on the Tweed is to British salmon fishermen. On our side of the river was the temple with prayer flags flying gently in the breeze which carried with the scent of incense and of curries cooking. On the other side of the river a ghat, a series of steps leading down to the river, also of spiritual significance. From my perch above the confluence, you could clearly see the difference in colour; the Kali was a milky green against the coffee coloured Saryu. Tackling up the previous afternoon, I had quickly realised that I was going to have another challenge on my hands – that of casting heavy sinking lines, with heavy tube flies on
my Hardy Proaxis 7#. It was a short and painful learning curve! Working the fly and fishing the pool down, I felt a hard bump and reacted with a hard strip strike; perfect for the bonefish it felt like but not much good on a mahseer. As my fly reached the end of its next swing, I stripped once and had another massive hit. Much harder
this time, it felt like a small GT had just hit my fly. Lifting the rod, I got the line back on the reel and let the fish run. Run it did and it took me straight into my backing. Showing no signs of stopping it headed right down past the confluence and into the Mahakali. Not looking forward to running after it across
the boulder field, I was determined not to lose this fish and equally determined not to break an ankle. Just as I thought I was going to have to boulder hop, it slowed and with the backing eventually retrieved, we had few more short runs and a last wee tussle before I was able to bring it to the bank. I was truly taken aback
by the beauty and the depth of its colour. Using a line tray or stripping basket is highly recommended as your line will wrap around just about everything it can.
We had a different plan for the following day and watching the sun rise over Nepal, while walking down to the river was really very
beautiful. I was on the other side of the river that morning, fishing the right hand bank of PJ’s pool down to the confluence. After a quiet morning, I started the afternoon where I had stopped in the morning and worked down to the bottom of the run. As my fly stopped swinging, I stripped once, short and fast, and
bang. Fish on. However this fish didn’t run. It sulked. Short bursts were followed by a tussle which became a tug of war. A smaller fish at 6 lbs, it actually made me work harder! It was a beautiful fish with lovely colouring on is belly, still a juvenile with its lighter colouring and bigger fins.
The following morning we were on the move; heading down to the fly camp on the Mahakali for the night. It is a wonderful 10 km drift with a few grade I rapids to keep you cool. Along the way, you see the marks on the wall
that the mahseer make when they are scratching for alternative food sources. We saw snow trout rising but they are best targeted on dry fly. With the visibility so poor the guides thought that our efforts would be better spent on mahseer. After an afternoon with only two small mahseer the clear skies, twinkling stars and the lonely evening song of the Nightjar were a wonderful end to what had been an extraordinary journey.
Would I go back? Absolutely. I came away from a tented camp operation, on the Indian
and Nepalese border, that has no electricity, no Wi-Fi, no cell phone cover and fish that are difficult and challenging on a good day far more impressed than I have been with operations that have all the bells and whistles you could want.
I hope that, like me, you will be inspired to try something different. To push your boundaries as an angler. To travel somewhere new with an open mind. I loved every second of my journey and would do it all over again in a heartbeat.
ROMANTICISM IN THE ART OF FISHING
The European artistic movement labelled “Romanticism” began around 1770 as a reaction against “Neo-Classicism”. Inspired by the Graeco-Roman world, and especially its architecture, Neo-Classicism is best exemplified in England by the buildings of Robert Adam. The formality of this style was challenged by an art inspired by nature and imagination, an altogether more passionate form of expression, hence “Romanticism”.
The second half of the 18th century in England was also a period in which more and more ordinary people were feeling optimistic about the future. The impact of the Industrial Revolution may have been quite awful for those most directly affected, particularly the workers in the industrial cities, but its effects were positive for other classes. Radical economic and social changes were driven by new manufacturing technology, better communications in all its forms and Britain’s success in building a global economy based on its new empire.
Angling provides an insight into how the idea of leisure and recreation emerged. For anyone wanting to go fishing, there were several requirements: some free time, proximity to a river or lake, or a reasonable means of getting there, suitable tackle, and confidence that it would be safe to go fishing. One of the effects these new conditions brought about was that women began to show interest in angling as a pastime.
In the second half of the 18th century the illustra-
tion of angling, in England and other European countries, frequently showed both sexes participating, whether as family, friends or sweethearts. That these anglers are usually very nicely dressed underlines how fashionable the sport became in the Romantic age.
The idea of a calendar in which each month was suitably illustrated is long-established, although in the 18th century it was not usual to include a table of individual days. However, publishers offered attractive sets of a dozen prints, with portraits of young ladies being especially popular. Often one of the months was associated with angling. Ladies were shown angling as an allegorical expression of their interest in catching a man.
“The Angelic Angler”, a famous print by an unknown engraver, was published by Robert Sayer and J. Bennett in 1781. It shows a wonderful overdressed lady in a gravity-defying bonnet hand-lining what appears to be a perch towards her pink-slippered feet. There is a gentleman angler in the middle-distance.
Another print in an equally glamorous style, published by Carington Bowles around 1790, is more technically sophisticated and is known to have been engraved by Richard Earlom after Robert Dighton. It was partly printed in colour with additional hand-colouring. Another fabulous outfit is seen, worn by a lady with a fishing rod and a bait kettle. Her slippers bear an uncanny resemblance to those worn by “The Angelic Angle”. The picture has both English and French titles, showing that it was expected to sell well in the home of haute couture.
Dighton is also the creator of “Fair Emily”, another young lady angler whose attributes are more decorative than piscatorial. In the late 18th century Dighton was the leading designer of droll mezzotints. No doubt there were also occasions when a girlfriend could accompany her beau when he was fishing close to home. That impression is given in “The sweet little girl that I love”, a coloured mezzotint from an unknown artist, published by R. Laurie and J Whittle in 1794. It was a charming love poem engraved beneath it that informs the reader that the lad is in love with Fanny.
Of all the images that play with boy-girl relationship around the symbolism of angling, it is one of the first that is most celebrated. In 1771, Robert Sayer published “Gudgeon Fishing, or He’s Fairly Hook’d”, a mezzotint by James Wilson. It has all the elements: a well-dressed young couple engaged in angling, she is confident that she can not only catch a fish, as he has, but also hook him. He is being extremely attentive to her piscatorial needs, thereby signalling that he is the one to love and care for her in all respects. So much for cheap mezzotints aimed at the bottom end of the market. In the same period much finer prints were also being produced showing mixed fishing with more or less Romantic connotations.
DISCOVERING FISHING IN SLOVENIA’S CRYSTAL CLEAR WATERS:
Bruno Micheletti
Most na Soči and its River Treasures
Slovenia has long been a favoured destination for fly fishing enthusiasts because of its natural beauty and crystal clear waters. In particular, the area of Most na Soči in the Goriška region is a true paradise for anglers, offering access to pristine rivers such as the Idrijca, Tolminka, Bača and Soča, where you can catch prestigious prey in breathtaking scenery.
The Soča and its tributaries: the enchantment of turquoise waters
The Soča, also known as the "emerald river" for its stunning turquoise colour, is the heart of this fishing experience. It flows through a spectacular alpine valley and is famous for its brown trout, grayling and the splendid marble trout, an endemic species of the region. However, the Soča is just the beginning. Its tributaries, such as the Idrijca, Tolminka and Bača, add further fishing opportunities. The Idrijca is renowned for its native trout, while the Tolminka offers the opportunity to fish in a rainforest environment. The Bača, with its rapids and meanders, is an excellent option for those looking for adventurous fishing.
Fly Fishing: an art to be appreciated
Fly fishing is the predominant technique in these waters. Aquatic insects abound and are a delicacy for local trout. The challenge is to imi-
tate the appearance and behavior of insects with artificial flies and to use skill and precision in casting. Dry and wet flies are widely used, but fishing with streamers can also be very rewarding, especially for catching large marble trout.
Conservation and sustainable management
Slovenia attaches great importance to the conservation of its fish resources. Many of these waters are managed as fisheries, with strict regulations to protect populations of native trout and other species. "Catch and release" is widely practiced to ensure the survival and growth of the fish populations.
A complete fishing experience
Fishing in Most na Soči is not just an activity, but a complete experience. In addition to the thrill of catching good fish, anglers can immerse themselves in the natural beauty of the region. The surrounding mountains, forests and turquoise waters create a peaceful and relaxing environment.
Logistics and accommodation
In the village of Idria Pri Baci, two kilometres from Most na Soči, Matei and his family have long been managing the Zlata Ribica facility, a beautiful hotel with a restaurant right on the banks of the Idrijca.
In conclusion, fishing in the Most na Soči area in the Goriška region of Slovenia is an extraordinary experience for fly fishing lovers. The crystal clear waters of the Soča and its tributaries, together with the surrounding natural beauty, create a unique environment to enjoy fishing and unspoiled nature. With an ongoing commitment to conservation and sustainable management, this region continues to be one of Europe’s most attractive fishing destinations.
FIRST STUDIES ON THE VISION OF THE TROUT AND THE THEORIES OF DR. MOTTRAM AND J. W. DUNNE
Riccardo De Stabile
Although the first references to the vision of trout were those of Alfred Ronald, an article published by Sir Henry Cunynghame in 1912 became a cornerstone of fly fishing. He gave an excellent description of a dry fly seen by a fish swimming beneath the surface. For the first time anglers got an idea of how flies looked to trout and this discovery had major repercussions on fly tying. A year later Dr. Francis Ward published two articles in The Field which described experiments he had conducted with trout and salmon flies in a pond purposely built for observing fish behavior, and provided a picture of what an angler must have looked like, seen from below.
In a book of the previous year, Ward had drawn attention to how a fish should see a fly:
“…and I would like to briefly note that the brightest fly, seen against the surface of the water, appears as an iridescent gray shape, and for this reason I don't think that the colour is important. The important thing is that the size is right for the water conditions and that the fly is used in a way that suggests it is alive.”
The dispute between supporters of dry fly fishing and those of wet fly fishing continued for a long time. As Hills later noted, the fact that the dry fly was used because it was easier to catch had been forgotten by the fans of the method
ings to apply his scientific knowledge to the subject and hoped for a new method of tying artificial flies that focused on buoyancy, contour and transparency, rather than colour. The doctor's dressings were very particular. He did not use dubbing in the parts where the insect’s body was transparent and designed models whose buoyancy was ensured by pieces of cork (even if the idea of cork in flies was not at all new). Mottram's book had had some influence, but the problem was that he included a chapter on nymphs, which irritated Skues. The latter wrote rather caustically:
“I am aware that a new book entitled 'Fly Fishing: Some New Arts and Mysteries' (Dr J. C. Mottram) suggests an interesting method of nymph fishing, and since I have not tried it myself, I cannot in any way despise it. The fact is that these nymphs seem stiff, dense and not very colorful to me and that they have a tendency to fall heavily when cast due to the absence of hackle.”
However, lacking both Skues' charisma and support, Mottram became an easy target for his fellow dry-fly fishermen. The pressure was felt and in the end he capitulated. In the meantime, however, he had made an important contribu-
themselves:
“…Modern writers seem to think the opposite. They talk as if this makes it harder to catch trout and was invented for that. They write as if it was introduced to protect trout from all but the most experienced and skilled anglers. From this concept comes the strange idea that fishing with a wet fly is easier than with a dry fly. It should be banned, they say, because anyone can catch with that.”
Dr. James Mottram walked unaware into the storm, fueling a dispute that continued until the outbreak of the Second World War.
In 1924 J.W. Dunne published a book that dealt a severe blow to Halford. Dunne was fascinated by the idea of translucency in insect bodies and designed a series of lures built on white hooks with silks of different colours which were mixed to obtain tertiary colours. Dunne began to think when he found no insects among Halford's flies that resembled those he had seen:
“But to tell the truth I was very perplexed by the number of Test flies that were not included in Halford's series. All day and every day there were continually hatches of these insects. They were all
A curious man, he was inspired by Ward's writ-
tion to the evolution of modern artificial baits.
sober 'duns' with almost colorless legs, leaden wings and monochromatic bodies that varied from honey to dark amber. I could only conclude that these flies were typical of that stretch of the river and that you had to move further south to find the nice ones striped in olive and light cream.”
Unfortunately, Dunne's models are difficult to find today, also because he built them with very perishable silk. However, his models remain very interesting because almost every aspect of the model is expressed by a number. His artificial flies were an interesting attempt to solve the problem of translucency, but they had several disadvantages. The special silk he used
DR. JAMES MOTTRAM
the sunlight, the trout certainly only sees a dark silhouette, but it doesn't mean that it always has to feed in those conditions.”
“They seem to take it for granted that the trout will pick up the floating insect after seeing it within its visual range and then see it in bright light. Hence the analogy with human sight, which suggests that they see it as a dark silhouette devoid of colour, while it seems clear that the trout rises just as often to catch the fly even before it reaches the centre of its visual range. But if the trout inspects the fly closely by placing it in the centre of its visual range, then we must remember that its eye will almost certainly magnify the image and therefore be able to clearly
was very fragile. Furthermore the flies appeared very natural when crossed by the sun, but lost all their translucency as soon as a cloud passed.
Nonetheless, Dunne's patterns, especially the May flies, had some success and were found in Hardy's catalogues until 1966. These new developments stirred things up again and called Halfordian dominance into question. In 1931, E.W. Harding extended Ward's study by patiently observing and comparing the artificial and natural, confirming Ward's experiments:
“The legitimate conclusion that can be drawn is that shape is of primary importance, while color is of secondary importance until the fly is in the centre of the fish's visual range...not always an exact imita-
J.W. DUNNE
distinguish the colours. Looking against the sunlight, the trout certainly only sees a dark silhouette, but it doesn't mean that it always has to feed in those conditions.”
Harding's book was monumental work, which bucked the standards of the time. It was certainly the best attempt yet at writing a scientifically-based text on fly fishing and in many respects little has been done since then to improve it, other than repeating his experiments using higher quality photographs. For example, he pointed out that the wings of a natural fly are at first seen as a pale detached shadow, which
tion, if that is possible, is essential, even if the fish delays to inspect the fly by placing it in the centre of its visual range.”
Nothing new in reality, but Harding's observations (The Fly Fisherman and the Trout's Point of View, 1931) were made with the eye of the consummate fisherman and created a chasm in the school of exact imitations:
But if the trout inspects the fly closely by placing it in the centre of its visual range, then we must remember that its eye will almost certainly magnify the image and therefore be able to clearly distinguish the colours. Looking against
joins the body only when the fly approaches, an important point that some authors after him presented as a new discovery.
Harding had taken after someone, too. Although the debate on fly fishing was essentially English, it seems clear that Harding was inspired, at least in part, by Secrets of the Salmon, published in 1922 by Hewitt, which contained a series of photographs of flies (both wet and dry) taken underwater, using a system similar to that used by Ward.
FLYFISHING IN
Lapland
Ammarnas is a small town situated in Swedish Lapland. Located in Vasterbotten, the Ammarnas city and the surroundings have become popular in the fishing world because huge trout migrate from a
big lake called Storvindeln to the upper part of the Vindel River to lay their eggs. Another attraction is the great population of grayling. And if this is not enough, it is good to know that you will find only wild fish (trout, char, pike, whitefish and perch), there are no fish stocked! I usually visit this part of the river (close to Ammarnas) because the surroundings are beautiful and there is no traffic. I always recharge my batteries after a week spent on the rivers and
lakes of this area. It is important to note though, that the river stretches are crowded from August until mid-September when the big trout start their autumn migration. The trout run up from big rivers and swim to
the upper part of the Vindel, close to the Ammarnas city to spawn. In this period of the year you have the chance to land some of the biggest wild trout. Swedish, Italian, Finnish fishermen always book the best places. I’m not a big fan of trout fishing (especially when it comes to double-handed rods), I prefer grayling fishing so I try to avoid August and September. Usually at this time the water levels are constant but rain can cause the rivers to rise and fishing can
be difficult. I prefer to go in July even if you might find high water conditions, especially in the lower valley, but you can be rewarded with nice fish up to 60cm long - although it is not easy to locate the grayling. I like to visit the local fishing stores in Ammar-
nas and Sorsele because the guys, especially in the Ammarnas guiding centre are very nice and friendly. You can chat with local fishermen there or with tourists, listen to a few stories and drink good coffee. Cold fresh air, great company, and good fishing
memories are what I always enjoy in this part of the world. In Sjoforsen, the River Vindel is only small but you must consider that it is approx. 450km in length with dozens of tributaries. It is one of the biggest rivers in Sweden. Even so, in years of fishing I have never been able to walk
across the narrowest stretch, I have always used a boat. Deep pools with super-fast stretches are a constant, and of course this is the reason for such a healthy fish population. Fishing with nymphs is very good but you must find micro-pools and micro-currents, to “understand and feel” the water otherwise it can be a daunting task to locate the fish and you may scare the entire grayling school by standing where the fish are. The fish are educated, catch and release is the rule there and big fish are very clever.
I have had a few big trout on my nymphs, but even with a 3X fluorocarbon tippet I have not been able to stop those trains. They often went into the backing and I would have to start running on the river bank to avoid breaking off, but I have not been able to catch a single trout. They were too big!
Practically all these big trout feed at night, I only hooked them by accident when I went for grayling. I have never had a real chance to catch one, neither was I prepared for the fight in the right way. I enjoy grayling fishing even with streamers, they are an interesting and strong fighter. I have had many fish over 40cm and have even caught fish over 60cm. I do not know if it is only my subjective feeling, but I believe that grayling are stronger fighters
when they take a streamer. The first few times I visited these places, I always made a big mistake. I woke up early, drove from Sorsele for about 100km and started fishing at 0900. At 2200, I was tired like hell. Fishing under the strong light of the summer
Lapland sun is difficult and any fisherman will get tired. I agree that fishing early is great for grayling but fishing late in the day, after 2200, is absolutely fantastic. I recommend fishing in the latter part of the day to have enough energy to fight with big
fish. But if you do not like to miss early morning fishing, then it is better to take a nap at the fishing lodge. Then, hopefully, you will have enough energy to fight the big ones.
IncaTROUT
Peru is known for its good spots for fishing marlin, tuna and other saltwater giants, but great quality rainbow trout fishing can be found in the Andes.
These fish, prized by fishermen around the world for their fighting spirit, are not native to the Andes. In 1939 rainbow trout from Canada were released into Lake Titicaca and some rivers and lakes near the Sacred Valley. The idea was to create a new source of protein for food-poor highlanders. Shortly after the introduction of these experiments, the Peruvian government began the construction of rainbow trout farms along the banks of numerous mountain rivers.
Rainbow trout and brown trout also entered Peruvian rivers from other countries bordering Peru, as fish released or bred in neighbouring countries with the same objective. The Chilean Andes was also seeded with brown and rainbow trout to create a resource for sport and recreational fishing as well as to provide protein. Via steamships which made it possible to transport live fish for the first time, the entire South American Andes and many other bodies of water were repopulated with trout.
Native Peruvian fish species did not suffer from the trout's arrival. Caught commercially with nets and also grown in farms, populations of karachi and suche are still thriving and these fish are on the menus of many Andean restaurants along with dishes of trucha (trout).
The introduced trout have proven to be of great benefit to Peru, thriving in the upper Urubamba and adjacent river systems, as well as in some of the high mountain lakes. The Apurimac River south of Cuzco has good trout fishing, and further south around Kesheshachaca, there are numerous small lakes offering excellent trout. These fish can reach up to 10lb. Fishing guide services mostly in the Cuzco area, are quite rare but are slowly growing. Peru has a lot to offer, in addition to trout
fishing. First and foremost, the capital Lima, on the central coast facing the Pacific Ocean, is the centre of transport, culture and economy, as well as a social, political and tourist point of reference. Its hotel infrastructure is well
organised and offers every type of comfort.
Known as "the city of kings," Lima is the most important city in the country with a rich pre-Inca, Inca, colonial and modern history,
and a great combination of tradition, culture, tourism, gastronomy and entertainment. In Lima the mix of cultures is always present. Nothing exemplifies it better than the numerous museums, including the National Museum and the Rafael Larco Herrera Archaeological Museum located in the Pueblo Libre district. Also very interesting is Peru’s Museum of Gold and Weapons of the World located in Surco, where pieces of gold, silver, copper and fabrics are found, in addition to the collection of weapons.
Furthermore, in the vicinity of Lima there are some of the most spectacular fishing locations in the country. If trout is the goal, you can start first with the Canete Valley. Here there are wonderful lagoons and lakes with excellent fishing and little pressure from local fishermen. You can organise yourself or choose to hire a guide to accompany you. The area is interesting as it also offers excellent places to eat local food. It is an excursion that can also be extended for a couple of days.
It should be remembered that Peru was the cradle of the Inca civilisation, one of the largest native American peoples. The Inca civilisation unified, peacefully conquering or annexing, most of the western territories of South America. The language and religion of the empire were imposed on each conquered people who, in
turn, enriched the Incas with their culture.
Cuzco is also worth seeing, as it has been for many, the most beautiful city in Peru because of its historic centre and the numerous ruins in the surrounding area. These archaeological sites are easily reachable by minivans organised by
the many tourist agencies located in the lanes near Plaza de Armas. Peru is a classic destination where you can have quality fishing and above all, it is a place where the whole family can be satisfied.
