Professional Hairdresser January 20

JANUARY 2020

J A N U A RY 2 0 2 0

ISSUE 01

2020 Vision

FOLLOW ME: @nicolaprohair FOLLOW PRO HAIR MAG: @ProHairMag @ProHairMag

Editor Nicola Shannon nshannon@hamerville.co.uk

In the grey days of post-festive excess and with the hot summer holidays seemingly an eternity away, it is the ideal time to take a good, thorough look at what 2020 holds for you and how to plan your business to make the most of the whole 12 months.

Start this strategy by looking through your accounts, appointments and retail sales over 2019. Can you identify times when business was slack? This could include post-Christmas and the end of the summer holiday season. Don’t wait until you have to deal with these lulls again. Make plans now to generate business with special offers and loyalty discounts. Pay attention to retail marketing, by ‘getting in’ early you may find that brand representatives are more amenable to your ideas and your salon’s promotions.

Look at all areas of your long-term business including social media. Although this may be looked on as something spontaneous, be aware of, and make a timetable of events that happen in the months ahead, this could include sporting events, (don’t forget it’s an Olympic year), showbusiness events and Fashion Weeks. Use this as a framework for more spontaneous tweets and campaigns.

Implement a plan for your salon’s website to keep it up to date, fresh and that it features the information that current customers need and will also attract new clients – it is one of the best ways to show creativity and trends.

Make sure you know well in advance about competitions and exhibitions such as our own Pro Hair Live on the 23rd and 24th February 2020. Find out now what will be taking place and which of your staff will benefit the most by attending or taking part.

By taking time now to plan ahead you will be able to react faster and make the most of more immediate business opportunities. Above all don’t forget long-term goals – remember 2021 will all too soon be upon us!

JANUARY 2020

COVER: Martin Crean using Goldwell

Assistant Editor Megan Danskine mdanskine@hamerville.co.uk Digital Manager Ruth Williams

REGULARS 6

Digital Assistant Rebecca Mcgeoch Designer

9

NEWS Industry goings on NEWS EXTRA Fellowship

ANNIVERSARY SPECIAL 20 TIME HOP Paul Mitchell 40th Anniversary

Carol Padgett Production Assistant Claire Swendell Printer Walstead Roche Ltd Publisher Bryan Shannon Group Sales Manager

PEOPLE 12 HOOKER & YOUNG With Patrick Cameron

68 Michael Smith

26 ON TREND

69 GREEN QUEEN KARINE

COLLECTIONS

70 SPOTLIGHT ON Paul Mitchell

16 TREND SPOTTING With BaByliss PRO

BUSINESS SPECIAL

17 THE SALON CHAMPION With Andrew Barton

50 Michael Douglas

PRODUCTS

56 Debbie Digby

71 SPOTLIGHT ON Neuro

Oliver Shannon oshannon@hamerville.co.uk

58 Ken Picton

National Sales Executive aasher@hamerville.co.uk

65 Tony Le Britton

FASHION

57 Trisha Buller

Alana Asher

64 Robert Masciave

SUSTAINABLE SALON LIFE

Donna Booth Group Production Manager

59 Phil Smith

74 SPOTLIGHT ON Joico

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©2020 Professional Hairdresser accepts no responsibility for damage or loss, however caused, to any material submitted for publication. While every effort is made to ensure facts are correct at time of going to press, no responsibilty can be acceoted for incorrect product descriptions or facts. No part of this magazine may be reproduced, in any form, without prior written permission from the publishers.

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PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 5

@ProHairMag

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THE LATEST FROM THE INDUSTRY

FUDGE PROFESSIONAL X NICCE UBER-COOL URBAN BRAND NICCE INVITES FUDGE BACK TO STYLE HAIR FOR ITS LFWM SHOW.

WWW.PROFESSIONALHAIRDRESSER.CO.UK

Hair and beauty entrepreneur Kate Stott has been awarded Scottish Business Woman of the Year at the National Business Women Awards for launch of the new Beauty Booker app.

What does a conservative election win mean for salons?

Boris Johnson won the election by a landslide late last year, but what will his policies mean for hairdressers and salon owners, the NHF explains.

Jonathan Andrew, Fudge Professional’s Global Brand Ambassador recently took on the challenge of styling the hair for streetwear brand NICCE at an after party style presentation.

“NICCE was going old school with its collection drawing on the bold streetwear inspired looks housed in an after party vibe,” says Jonathan, “so I wanted to take the hair on an end of the night hair journey. We went for a relaxed style, working with the natural textures and definition for the boys and then with the girls creating sleek, high-shine finishes showcasing the versatility of the range.”

Check out how to recreate the looks yourself in the How-To section of our website!

6 PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER

Boris Johnson’s government has been re-elected with a strong majority, making it very likely that the government will continue with their previous policies, including Brexit. Boris Johnson has also said he will negotiate a trade agreement with the EU in 2020 and that he will not extend the implementation period beyond December 2020.

Commitments made in the last Queen’s Speech, at the Party Conference, in their manifesto and in the election campaign indicate that the government will: Increase the National Living Wage, expected to reach £10.50 within the next five years, and reduce the age from 25 to 23 from 2021 and to 21 by 2024.

Continue with employment law reform, including more protection for people working in the gig economy, encouraging flexible working, making it easier for fathers to take paternity leave and setting up an anti-tax evasion unit within HMRC. Support small businesses with a £31m package to encourage growth, maintain corporation tax at 19% and increase the Employment Allowance from £3000 to £4000 for small businesses.

Reduce business rates for retail businesses to protect high streets and review the business rates system.

Hilary Hall, NHBF chief executive said, “The new government’s policies contain some good news for salons, especially on business rate reductions and longer-term reform, which is badly needed.

Although the increased Employment Allowance is a sweetener, employment costs will continue to rise with significant increases to the National Living Wage over the next 5 years.

While it is important that the people working in salons are well paid for the professional job they do, if costs rise too much and too fast it’s likely that the trend towards self-employment will continue.

The government has committed to supporting the self-employed, although they have also said they will target businesses taking on contractors who are employees in all but name.”

CONGRATULATIONS TO ALL OF THE WINNERS AT HJ’S BRITISH HAIRDRESSING AWARDS SPONSORED BY SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL Hosted by Rylan Clark-Neal at the glittering Grosvenor House hotel on Park Lane, the awards is the Oscars of the hair world, and these names demonstrated sheer technical skill and awesome creativity to take home a coveted trophy.

BRITISH HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR: Robert Eaton, Russell Eaton, Leeds AFRO HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR: Rick Roberts, Rick Roberts, Beverley (East Yorkshire) ARTISTIC TEAM OF THE YEAR: Mark Leeson Artistic Team, Mansfield AVANT GARDE HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR: Hayley Bishop & Sophie Springett, TONI&GUY North Audley Street, London MEN’S HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR: Jim Shaw & Daisy Carter, Essensuals, Billericay NEWCOMER OF THE YEAR: Alex Morton, Jamie Stevens, London SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL BRITISH COLOUR TECHNICIAN OF THE YEAR: Sophie Gibson & Jonathan Turner, Hooker & Young, Newcastle TREND IMAGE OF THE YEAR: Federico Patelli, TONI&GUY Victoria, London EASTERN HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR: Nathan Jasztal & Zoe Jasztal, Silhouette Du Barry, Chelmsford LONDON HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR: Andy Heasman, RUSH Victoria, London MIDLANDS HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR: James Earnshaw, Bad Apple Hair, Wolverhampton NORTH EASTERN HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR: Alexander Turnbull, Alexander Hair & Beauty, Hull NORTH WESTERN HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR: Jon Wilsdon, TONI&GUY Deansgate, Manchester NORTHERN IRELAND HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR: Sharon Malcolm, Sharon Malcolm Hairdressing, Co. Down SCOTTISH HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR: Jason Hall, Jason Hall Hairdressing, Edinburgh SOUTHERN HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR: Andrew Smith, Andrew Smith Salons, Portsmouth WALES & SOUTH WEST HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR: Martin Crean, MODE, Chipping Camden, Gloucestershire INTERNATIONAL COLLECTION OF THE YEAR: Jacky Chan, Oscar Oscar Chadstone, Melbourne, Australia Bruno Marc Giamattei, JOICO Ambassador for Europe and owner of Marc Antoni salons, has been announced as the President of the World Hair Congress.

ASK THE EXPERT NHBF chief executive Hilary Hall offers some key advice for handling your finances in 2020.

How can salons make sure they’ve got their prices right?

As a first step, add up all your outgoings, for example, wages, stock, rent, rates, utility bills, and accountancy/banking costs. If your salon is only just breaking even or making a loss, you will need to increase your prices. Don’t be afraid to do this: your clients come to your salon because they value the service and quality of client experience you offer. They will understand you need to cover your costs and make a profit.

When setting your prices you will also need to consider a number of factors including your location, target market, and the range and type of services you offer. Whether you’re going for high-volume turnover or the luxury end of the market is also a key factor.

When is the best time to put prices up?

Our advice is to put your prices up at the start of the new financial year in early April. This will make sense to clients as you can explain that you need to cover increases in the National Minimum Wage as well as rent and rates rises. Your suppliers may also be putting up their prices and utility bills may increase too. Be open about your outgoings with your clients so they understand that you genuinely need to increase your prices.

Don’t put prices up without any warning. Give at least six weeks’ notice and make sure all your staff will feel confident explaining the reasons for the price increase.

Can you share three top tips to increase profits in 2020?

Firstly, take control of your cash flow – running out of cash is a major cause of business failure. Even profitable salons can fail because of poor cash flow. Find out more about cash flow: nhf.info/cash-flow Secondly, increase your retail sales. Encourage your staff to sell the products they love – their genuine enthusiasm will be infectious.

Find out how to boost retail sales: nhf.info/retail Finally, take steps to reduce costs: cut down your stock levels, reduce waste and negotiate better deals with your suppliers.

NHBF Members can download a free in-depth guide to business finances, prices, wages and profits: nhf.info/finance-guide The NHBF offers a range of business support services for hair and beauty salons, from legal, employment and financial guidance to discounted insurance and expert advice for managing people and boosting your business. www.nhf.info

NEWS EXTRA

ALL TOGETHER NOW THE HAIRDRESSING INDUSTRY COMES TOGETHER FOR THE ANNUAL FESTIVE FELLOWSHIP LUNCHEON. On the first Monday each December, the Fellowship for British Hairdressing’s Luncheon and Awards signifies the start of the festive period – the hairdressing industry’s unofficial Christmas party!

Celebrating a year of achievements of Fellowship members and the successes of the hair industry as a whole, this year’s event took place in its new home at the InterContinental on London’s glittering Park Lane.

Chancellor Ashleigh Hodges opened proceedings and reigning President Ken Picton joined her on stage. He acknowledged the successes of the Fellowship, including the launch of the acclaimed online education platform, The Knowledge.

“The Fellowship is all about creativity and opportunity for our members and sponsors and that is what truly makes us unique,” he said.

“As we enter 2020, we have to be true to our core values, as what other industry can connect with the human spirit like ours can on a daily basis?

Our projects have had a record number of applications this year, our sponsorship is the highest it’s ever been and our membership is growing daily – I’ve been Mr President for seven months now and I’ve loved every second.”

Before lunch was served, the Fellowship recognised members’ achievements with the awarding of medals to the Fellows with Honours and Distinction, the Salutation Awards for press and the Roll of Recognition for Fellowship supporters, as well as paying tribute to the late Sean Nolan from HOB Salons.

Following a lovely meal, it was time for the Fellowship Awards, and the announcement of the 2020 F.A.M.E. Team. Before the names were revealed, Nick Irwin and the 2019 team said their goodbyes – with Nick handing over the reins after three remarkable years to new Team Leader, Jamie Stevens.

The final moment of recognition was for Fellowship Hairdresser of the Year – named as Sally Brooks, for her monumental contributions to British hairdressing as a creative, a business owner and a passionate educator working to inspire more people into the industry.

With the awards over, it was time for the after party – this year, hosted in the InterContinental’s bar with live music from Alex Francis.

Guests drank and danced well into the evening, getting into the festive spirit and celebrating a truly brilliant 2019.

This year winners…

FELLOW WITH HONOURS

SALON GROUP OF THE YEAR

F.A.M.E. TEAM 2020

Paul Dennison, Ken Picton Andy Heasman, Rush

HOB Salons

Brooke Evans, BE Ironbridge Casey Coleman, CHAIR Brandon Messinger, The Hair Movement Jose Domene, Hare and Bone

FELLOW WITH DISTINCTION

Karine Jackson MEMBER OF THE YEAR

Marlene Lamont, Urban Hair and Beauty CHARITY AWARD

Stewart Roberts, Haircuts for Homeless INDIVIDUAL SALON OF THE YEAR

FELLOWSHIP SNAPSHOT IMAGE OF THE YEAR

HOB Creative Team FELLOWSHIP IMAGE OF THE YEAR

Andrew Heasman, RUSH

FELLOWSHIP HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR

Sally Brooks, Brooks and Brooks

COLOUR PROJECT ACHIEVER OF THE YEAR

Lea Shaw PROJECT X STUDENT OF THE YEAR

Dan Law

TONI&GUY Canary Wharf

PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 9

PEOPLE

HOOKER AND YOUNG

Patrick Cameron Patrick Cameron has got to be hairdressing’s ultimate showman. He’s known for his iconic long hair work combined with hugely entertaining stage presentations. You think of long hair education and you think of Patrick Cameron. He has forged an incredible career inspiring thousands of hairdressers around the world, so we were thrilled to sit down with our friend to get the low down on where it all began.

Michael: So Patrick, tell us about your journey and how it all started for you?

Patrick: I’m from New Zealand, and most people think I still live there, but I’ve actually lived in the UK for 32 years. I’m a very invested Brit, but I’m also proud of being a New Zealander. My hairdressing journey started there, where I was trained by one of the country’s top hairdressers – who is still one of my mentors.

Gary: When did you first come to England?

Patrick: In 1987. I flew over with the intention of staying for a three-month holiday, six months maybe. My parents said to me that I wouldn’t stay longer than that, but what’s incredible about London is that you absorb the city, and the longer you stay, the more you start being aware of what’s going on. Over time you pick up on the nuances, and I just realised that I needed more time in the city to fully absorb what I was seeing.

Gary: Did you work for anyone in particular in the beginning?

Patrick: I got a job at a salon in Mayfair. I thought I was working for Alan International, but they had actually sold the business a couple of weeks before I started. When I got my first pay cheque it said, ‘Rudi Cartel’ and when I asked one of the team, they told me that it had been sold a month ago!

Working for Rudi was a lot of fun, but after about nine months I realised I was doing the same work that I’d been doing in New Zealand. I felt that if I was doing the same thing in London that I could be doing at home, I might as well go back. So, I handed in my notice and got a job in Camden Town – which was a pretty alternative place back in the 80s.

There were a lot of young designers and amazing things going on, and I started working for Pierre Alexander. He took me in, and I built a clientele so quickly that it stopped my opportunities to do other work, as I was more valuable on the floor. I eventually decided that I was going to hand in my notice, because in those days, you could go freelance, go into magazines and work with photographers once you’d built up a portfolio.

So, I told Pierre ‘thank you for everything, but I’m going to work my month out and then leave’. Before I could do that, he sold the salon to a large group called Alan Paul. They set up a meeting with me and I went in with a list of demands that I thought were a little over the top. Firstly, I didn’t want the job. I wanted £25 per hour – at that point I was on £2.50 an hour. I’m a Kiwi, so I wanted endless holidays and I wanted an apartment in London. Anyway, I went to the meeting with a guy called Harley Mews and he said he liked the way I worked with team members. I said, ‘well Harley if I’m going to work with you, this is my list of demands’. He looked at the paper, burst out laughing, took his Mont Blanc pen out of his pocket and went tick, tick, tick – ‘you start tomorrow’. He said they were

PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 13

Michael: Whenever I see you at events or shows, you’re having pictures taken with someone – it’s amazing!

Patrick: Someone told me years ago, and I really think it’s true, that the responsibility of success is sharing it.

When I have these photographs with people, I can often feel them shaking, or they start crying, which sounds crazy, But they’ve seen my books or my DVDs, they’ve seen me for 25 years and all of a sudden, they’ve flown from somewhere faraway in the world to London and they’re right in front of me and that makes me feel very blessed.

Gary: Obviously you’re world famous for your hair shows. Was it a conscious decision to be known as the long hair expert? giving me a month’s trial, but I burst out laughing and said ‘no, you don’t understand, I’m giving you a month’s trial!’ We were both laughing and it was the beginning of the most incredible adventure of my life!

Michael: That’s so good, I love that story. How long did you stay with them?

Patrick: I was with them until they were taken over by Steiner. I worked for Steiner for a year or so as creative director, I set up an artistic team for them and looked after photographic work, shows etc… This was back in the early 90s and it was a really exciting time. I met my business partner, Susan Callahan, there too.

I went to Germany to present a seminar for Wella and they then recommended me to Wella Italy and the next thing I was travelling more and more for them internationally. It was around this time that Sue and I set up Patrick Cameron International and we both broke free from corporate life to concentrate on making the Patrick Cameron name synonymous with long hair education.

It’s funny, I’m one of the very few hairdressers that never came from well known salon group – not a TONI&GUY or Sassoon or Trevor Sorbie. I’m very much Patrick Cameron and I’ve always been Patrick Cameron. Whether I’m working with Wella, the Fellowship for British Hairdressing, whoever I’m with, I’m probably one of the most politically neutral hairdressers in the business. I pride myself on being a hairdresser’s hairdresser.

Patrick: Not really. I was doing the Clothes Show Live in the 80s and 90s and I had to present on the main stage to a very large, non-hairdressing audience. I realised I had to do a bit more of a show with the wow factor. I felt that long hair would be more visual as it was always a passion in had. From then on I slowly started introducing more long hair work into my performances. A lot of people said it was suicide to give up cutting to do long hair! I was one of the very first people in the world to specialise solely in long hair.

Michael: Well how wrong they were!

Patrick: My first professional show was at World Hairdressing Congress in London. I came out on stage laughing and telling jokes. I talked to the audience whilst I worked and my beautiful models danced to ABBA. When I took my final bow, the audience erupted into a standing ovation. It was totally unexpected but amazing.

Michael: Could you feel the energy shift in the show?

Patrick: Absolutely. The audience came alive. They began by sitting back, and as the show progressed they moved further and further forward in their seats. I could feel them having fun, but learning at the same time.

Gary: There is an energy in what you do and what you present. You immediately engage. What presentation advice would you offer to young people?

Patrick: You’ve got to learn to bring your true self to the stage. So, my advice to any young artist starting out is to ask: ‘Who the hell are you?’ Yes, you might do a beautiful haircut, yes you might do beautiful colour, but who are you and how can I invest in you? I want to know your personality; I want to believe in you as a person and then maybe I’ll come with you on your journey – but you can’t expect people to come on your journey just because you’re standing on stage.

Gary: Did you have any professional training?

Patrick: I was in amateur theatre, musicals and stuff. When I came here, I think I was pretty fully formed as me, I just needed someone to believe in me and give me a go.

Gary: Obviously you travel the world and do all the shows – do you sit down at the beginning of every year to plan what you do?

Patrick: Once we launch at Salon International each year, we know the next year is taken care of. We have 15 hairstyles that we can put out and, as we’re never in the same country more than once a year, we have a show that we can take around the world. In November or December, we start thinking about new ideas and my artistic director, Marco Erbi, who makes all the clothes will start thinking about ideas for fashion and where it’s going.

He’s amazing, he is so spot on.

Then, I go to New Zealand and start doing bits and pieces. I take my ideas and sketch them down and I’ll rework the ideas on a mannequin. That keeps going for six months until I’ve probably got around 20 to 25 heads of hair. Then I figure out all the step by steps and I set up the shots in my house. Marco shoots the whole thing, we have more months of editing and doing voiceovers. I have friends who work in media, so I get them to do the titles for me and we do everything in-house. We’re a tight machine. Our only problem is what to do when we stop! We have been doing this together for 25 years. This is our 26th formal collection and I have another four or five before that that we didn’t photograph!

Gary: What do you do to relax, do you ever switch off?

PEOPLE

Patrick: I do yes. When I’m not travelling and working, it’s my time and I’m at home.

Michael: How often do you go back to New Zealand?

Patrick: I go once a year for two months. I go for the whole of December and January, go skiing in Austria in February, and then I come back and start my work.

Gary: Is your partner involved in the business?

Patrick: No, he’s a lawyer – a divorce lawyer.

Michael: That’s good to know!!!

Gary: And you said you have a daughter now?

Patrick: We do, we have a beautiful little daughter – Ella Grace Rose.

Michael: How has it changed your life?

Patrick: It’s made us more aware of timelines. Children are a cruel mark of time – you see them grow and it really makes you think. What does high school look like? Will she go to school in New Zealand or in the UK? It’s working out what the next part of our life is going to look like. There’s a bigger picture now than just my husband and I, and me just running around the world.

Michael: How does the future look for you? Is there a plan?

Patrick: Always! There’s definitely a plan.

I’d like to maybe become an orator for the industry. I’ve been looking into inspirational speaking and I think I have a story to tell so I feel that’s something that’s really going to happen. There are not enough positive people out there that are able to talk from our industry, who aren’t formulaic and who speak from the heart and who hairdressers believe in.

Gary: I think you would be amazing at that.

Patrick: I just love the idea of being able to inspire people – young people, new hairdressers, people who have been hairdressing for a long time… A lot of hairdressers get into their 40s and they’re too young to be old, but they’re too old to be young. Where do they go, what do they want to do? How do they see their careers? So hopefully through my ideas, my motivations and inspirations, they might be able to look at their careers in slightly different ways.

Michael: There aren’t a lot of people like you, and so to spread that positivity would be an amazing thing to share. You could probably deliver somebody some bad news and make them think it’s good!

Patrick: As they say, the definition of diplomacy is telling someone to go to hell in such a way that they look forward to the journey.

Gary: So true! Do you find it harder to engage younger people?

Patrick: I think younger people are more closed off than they have ever been.

They live so much on their devices. I don’t want to disrespect them because we’re in different generations and I’m a believer in looking forward, but a healthy mix of social media and the physicality is really important. You can learn what you want on YouTube, but who is going to tell you it doesn’t work? I see education changing massively.

Michael: Because it’s so accessible online.

Patrick: Exactly! But on the upside, its good to know people still want to learn new things, and that has to be positive.

Right? We set up our online training

video site and Access All Areas club.

Hairdressers pay a small subscription each month and access over 140 step-by-step tutorials. But it’s my face to face training school in London that still sells out fast. Give me a hairdresser for two days and I will teach them the skills to be a long hair professional.

If a client is going to choose between a named team or me, they might choose me because they know that hairdressers will want to meet me – because they’ll get me.

Michael: I get that. We often get opportunities to do things in different countries and they say we can send the art team. No disrespect to the guys, but they want you. You’ve earnt your stripes!

Patrick: I also think, and this is something I’ve become aware of in the last few months, is that I’m part of people’s life stories – I’m part of the industry’s life story. Hairdressers from India to America remember me and I’m part of their story, which is valuable.

Michael: 100%! Your name is definitely embedded into hairdressing history.

Everyone has a Patrick Cameron DVD,it’s something you must be super proud of.

Patrick has that rare ability to light up any room he enters. He is charismatic, totally charming and well… just a great guy! His story in hair is pretty incredible but like most it took some unexpected turns which he turned into incredible opportunities that would take him on an amazing journey in hair and build a career and profile that is rarely seen these days. His passion for hair is undeniable and he has given so much to the world of hairdressing that will be his legacy. We salute you Patrick Cameron.

PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 15

PEOPLE

TREND SPOTTING

WITH BABYLISS PRO

Sarah Black Aberdeen

“Aberdeen is (for now) my home – I grew up here,” says Sarah Black, “it is nicknamed The Granite City because everything is built in granite, and with the weather you would expect in the north east of Scotland, it makes for a pretty grey grey city. We have been known for oil and little else over the years… until recently that is. The economy took a hit as oil prices dropped – but this has seen the city experiencing a creative surge. The grey granite, becoming the perfect backdrop for colour pops.

“I prefer to stay true to what I genuinely feel is an authentic creative representation of me as an artist, channelled through my use of colour and techniques in styling. Maybe growing up in a grey granite city, subconsciously made me yearn to express myself through explosive colour - I’m a true rebel at heart! But as this city changes in the current climate I am actually finding myself in great company.”

“So with these looks I wanted to show that colourful creativity against the grey backdrop with some super cool wearable texture.

“I wanted to create an ‘Anti Volume’ wave on long hair, so I used the cordless BaByliss 9000 straightener to press waves into the hair using a relaxed ‘S Wave’ technique, (and topped up the texture on location with it too). The variation of section sizes and direction gave dimension and putting this texture into the bangs, I feel added a freshness to the look.

“On shorter hair I decided to create a ‘Barely There’ wave using the 32mm Titanium Expression tong to wrap a wave into the middle of each section, keeping the ends out, which kept the base line strong and blunt. I worked around the hair freely, without structured sections to ensure it looked non uniform.”

The

Salon

Andrew Barton, Creative & Communications Director at Headmasters has made it his mission

to champion the salon hairdresser, as the backbone of our wonderful industry. Here he celebrates the stylist behind the chair and how training is a vital foundation of a successful salon.

“There’s no better time than the start of a year to make plans, agree strategies for the year ahead and to tackle any issues that may be challenging your businesses success.

One of my focuses for the year ahead is to grow my salon business. As the Franchisee of Headmasters Mayfair, we have experienced considerable growth over the last eight months and my team enjoyed success despite consistently hearing how badly the hairdressing industry is suffering from a lack of stylists and clients. This proves salon businesses do have the opportunity to thrive on the high street with increased footfall and clients who want to receive expert advice from their hairdresser even in a challenging market.

To achieve this, I’ve put training at the heart of my business plan for 2020.

When investing in training it’s important to consider the needs of the team as well as the business goals. For example, if your goals are to build colour sales then colour training should play an important part of the education programme for the year, both collectively for the team and for each individual. Hair colour is one of the biggest growth areas in a salon business so building a strategy to upskill, unite and focus the team on a common goal is a good idea.

WHERE TO START

• • • • •

Start by mapping out your training plan for the year and brainstorm with the team agreeing objectives and outcomes.

Take some time with each individual to create their personal training plan.

Use your weekly team meeting to focus on training and preparing the team for any challenges ahead, celebrating success and agreeing objectives for that week.

If someone in your salon is particularly good at a technique like balayage, look at their column and the next time they are doing this service book one of the less strong members out of the column so they can shadow them. This can be a really simple way to upskill weaker members of the team without incurring time out of the salon.

Seek outside expertise, send your teams on relevant courses with like-minded teachers. If your focus is salon business make sure the courses you choose for your team support this focus.

At Headmasters training our people is part of the DNA and the business’s success. It comes in many forms from courses on creative to classic cutting, couture colour and styling at the Headmasters NEW London Academy, which from 2020 will be open for the wider industry to book into. We are thrilled to be able to share our knowledge and skills in a way that will build our industry and be relevant to salon businesses up and down the country.

Employee training is fundamental to Headmasters growth and success and it has huge benefits for every business including; 1) Competitive advantage. Competition for talent in the industry is growing and offering employees development training as part of your benefits is a good way to attract and retain people.

2) Increased employee loyalty. When employees feel valued and appreciated, they are loyal and therefore more likely to build a future with you and the business.

Plus, loyal employees are more engaged and naturally need less supervision.

3) Decreased staff turnover. Replacing employees can cost a business between 6-9 months of the ex-employee’s salary. Aside from the financial losses a high turnover rate effects morale, market position, reputation and revenue.

Investing in training encourages employees to feel happy and therefore committed to the business.

4) Better hairdressing standards. Well trained teams are better able to service clients and achieve their goals giving them confidence and pride and helping them to build successful columns.

Ultimately investing in training people is how we build and retain great businesses and build the status of the salon hairdresser as a skilled valued member of our wonderful industry.

Wishing you all a happy, successful and highly skilled 2020!

Andrew x

PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 17

TIMEHOP Forty years ago it all started with two friends and a dream. John Paul DeJoria and Paul Mitchell with just $700 in their pockets, started a company that would support the success of hairdressers and provide salon-quality products at an affordable price. Discover their story and what has made John Paul Mitchell Systems® such a unique company for the past 40 years.

1980 The beginning. With just $700, John Paul DeJoria and Paul Mitchell launch their company. Their ‘office’ consists of a post office box and an answering machine with a message recorded by a female friend. The originals. The first Paul Mitchell® products – Shampoo One®, Shampoo Two® and The Conditioner™ – are launched in their now iconic black and white packaging (colour printing was too expensive at the time).

2008 Tool time. Paul Mitchell® introduces the first electrical tools helping heat up fans’ styling routines with high-tech innovation and sleek features.

2002

2010

2005

30 years in the making. Tradition meets technology with the launch of the Awapuhi Wild Ginger® collection, featuring luxury care for dry, damaged hair. Building on the success of using this Hawaiian wonder plant in many Paul Mitchell® products, this ingredient is worthy of a whole brand focusing on rebuilding and repairing hair.

Tea Tree makes a difference. Partnering with leading environmental organisations, Tea Tree pledges to help make our world a greener place. Today Tea Tree partners with Reforest’Action and has pledged to plant 1 million trees by the end of 2021.

2011 Meet MITCH®. The first ever men’s line from John Paul Mitchell Systems®, MITCH® offers guys high-performance grooming essentials that can handle any style situation.

2013

Intelligent styling. The launch of Neuro™ sees a line of professional tools boasting meticulous craftsmanship and cutting-edge technology launched to the industry.

More than black and white.

Paul Mitchell® introduces the color, their first professional hair colour brand. What follows is a spectrum of innovative professional hair colour products for endless possibilities, all 100% vegan.

2015 A rare luxury. Not all oils are equal.

Launching the transformative power of wild-harvested, cold-pressed marula oil in a restorative hair care collection.

Paying fair trade wages to African women’s collectives who harvest the oil in the MarulaOil collection.

1987 Forward-thinking. Co-founders Paul Mitchell and John Paul DeJoria look to the future and pioneer one of the world’s first solar-powered racecars and enter it in the World Solar Challenge in Australia. Fast and green!

1980

No animal testing. Paul ® Mitchell was the first professional beauty company to announce they won’t conduct or endorse animal testing.

1983 The Awapuhi Farm. Green from the get-go, John Paul Mitchell Systems® establishes a sustainable, solar-powered Awapuhi Farm in Hawaii – all of the awapuhi used in their products is still harvested there today.

1987

An instant favourite. Always on the forefront of ® innovative ingredients, Paul Mitchell introduces tingly ® Tea Tree Special Shampoo (with much fan-fare from stressed out scalps everywhere). A bottle of Tea Tree ® Special Shampoo is now sold every three seconds.

2001

1990

Tea Tree expands. Due to the overwhelming popularity of Tea Tree Special Shampoo®, John Paul Mitchell Systems® launches the Tea Tree brand, turning showers everywhere into a tingly, spa-like retreat.

We care. Paul ® Mitchell receives a Humanitarian Award from People magazine for their ethical treatment of animals.

Paul Mitchell® The School.

The first school opens its doors in Cost Mesa, California, USA and set a new standard for education in the American pro beauty industry.

Now with over 100 locations, Paul Mitchell® The Schools are responsible for almost 10,000 graduates each year and collectively have raised over $21 million for charitable causes in the last 16 years.

2016

A sad farewell. The hairdressing industry loses an icon, John Paul DeJoria loses his friend of 18 years and Angus Mitchell loses his beloved father. Paul Mitchell dies of Pancreatic Cancer at age 53, leaving his share of the company to Angus.

2018 Meet MVRCK®.

Developed by barbers in Los Angeles, MVRCK® is a complete line of trusted barbering products designed to elevate the grooming experience in the barbershop and at home.

®

Be kind. Paul Mitchell Neon launches, a collection of products directly targeted at millennial females and backed by an anti-bullying message.

Launching in the UK in 2017 the brand supported The Diana Award’s Stand Up To Bullying anti-bullying charity.

1989

2017 Guilt free styling. Neuro™ Liquid is launched, a collection of thermal protection products built to take the heat. All containing HeatCTRL® technology, they are the perfect partner to Neuro™ electrical tools.

2020 Celebrating 40 years of People, Product and Planet.

Making a difference has been a cornerstone of the John Paul Mitchell Systems® culture from the start.

PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 21

PAUL MITCHELL

THE PRODUCTS BRAND VALUES

Paul Mitchell® has been the number one most recognised brand in the USA professional beauty industry for 40 years*. Trusted for its quality and performance-driven styling products, Paul Mitchell® offers more than 80 products for every hair type and end result with affordable luxury.

Paul Mitchell® has always had a strong commitment to giving back, supporting a wide range of philanthropic causes both domestically and internationally. * SOURCE: JPMS® consumer survey of over 1,000 consumer participants.

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No animal testing since 1980.

Many products are Vegan.

Built on integrity.

Professional only. No products sold through supermarkets or chemists.

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A legacy of giving back.

Affordable luxury position.

Performance driven formulations.

Trusted brand.

The original Paul Mitchell® brand is famous around the world for its black and white bottles. However this wasn’t a decision built on branding or style preference. As John Paul tells it, he and Paul were ready to launch Paul Mitchell Systems, their hair product company on a half a million dollar loan from the Vice President of Citicorp in France when the loan suddenly fell through.

The pair, contemplating their future over 99 cent pancakes at the freeway café on LA’s Cahuenga Boulevard, decided to forge ahead with the $700 they could scrape together between them. The story has often been told of how the $700 went to the artist who designed the packaging and gave them a $300 discount on a $1000 job.

Initially, John Paul Mitchell Systems® faced many challenges. According to John Paul: “We should have gone bankrupt perhaps 50 times during the first year.” Resources were so limited that the Paul Mitchell® brand’s now-famous black and white packaging was a result of not being able to afford colour ink.

At one point, the company consisted of a post office box and an answering machine with a female friend (with an English accent) producing the message recording to convey that there was, indeed, an ‘office.’

However, the partners had a unique and winning strategy – a company-building plan that stemmed from their convictions.

Mitchell and DeJoria travelled extensively to conduct no-cost product demonstrations for salon owners.

They guaranteed salon owners would sell all products purchased; if they didn’t, they could return any unsold products for a full refund. Such practices represented a first for the hair care industry, and eventually led to John Paul Mitchell Systems® becoming one of the fastest growing privately-held companies in the United States.

Launching Paul Mitchell® in the UK in 1987 through the 3·6·5 Education network of salons was a turning point for the brand; carving out new paths in the British hairdressing scene that would have lasting effects.

DID YOU KNOW? The Conditioner was the first professional leave-in conditioner on the market!

PAUL MITCHELL

THE PLANET

SETTING GREEN TRENDS John Paul Mitchell Systems® prides itself on being eco-conscious and environmentally friendly as it continually searches for sustainable ingredients and works towards adopting the most current green practices in packaging and supply chain.

CARING FOR OUR PLANET Green from the get-go, in 1982 Paul and John Paul established a sustainable, solar-powered Awapuhi Farm in Hawaii, back in the day before eco-friendly ventures had become a thing. The awapuhi plant is still harvested there today to contribute to the manufacturing of Paul Mitchell® and Awapuhi Wild Ginger® products. This is also the final resting place of Paul on the farm in his spiritual home of Hawaii.

FAST & GREEN Being forward-thinkers, Paul and John-Paul pioneered one of the world’s first solar and windpowered race cars in 1987, entering it in the World Solar Challenge in Australia.

TIME FOR TEA Off the back of the success of Tea Tree Special Shampoo®, in 2001 a whole new brand for Tea Tree was created celebrating this tingle-tastic natural ingredient. In 2014 the Tea Tree brand partnered with Reforest’Action, committing to reforestation and helping the planet. This partnership remains today with a commitment to planting one million trees by the end of 2022.

Having hippy roots and a love for animals and the planet, John Paul and Paul introduced the iconic image of a dove on the bottle back in the 80s, representing their mantra of Peace, Love and Happiness. 40 years on and the dove image has been re-imagined with this beautiful model shot.

(See page 70).

A CULTURE OF GIVING “Success unshared is failure” – John Paul DeJoria The culture of giving is helping to change the world. When you choose to work with John Paul Mitchell Systems® brands, you get more than just high-performing products.

You’re supporting a brand that believes in giving back.

Over the years, John Paul Mitchell Systems® and Paul Mitchell® Schools have donated millions of dollars to hundreds of global philanthropic causes; from environmental protection to children’s charities and human rights. But they don’t just give with their cheque book, they mobilise their entire community to get involved and lend a hand, helping to change the world one good deed at a time.

PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 23

Headmasters

Hair Andrew Barton for Headmasters Make-up Carol Brown Styling Radcliffe & Skimma Photography Jack Eames

PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 27

Hair & Photography Desmond Murray Make-up Jo Sugar

Martin Crean

Hair Martin Crean using Goldwell Make-up Lan Nguyen-Grealis Styling Magdalena Jacobs Photography Richard Miles

30 PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER

Andrew Smith Hair Andrew Smith Make-up Louise Lerego Styling Elle Mose Colour & Styling milk_shake Photography Richard Miles

Ken Picton

Hair Ken Picton Art Team Make-up Kylie O’Toole Styling Ella Murphy Photography Andrew O’Toole Products L’Oréal Professionnel

44 PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER

PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 47

ED–VERTORIAL

The JOI of education

From expert-led education to hands-on training, JOICO deliver a full-service education offering based on learning in a fun environment while connecting professionals from all over the world. As part of the JOICO family you will always leave motivated and inspired with a feeling of JOI and fulfilment.

JOICO education is delivered throughout the UK by JOICO’s three partners – Alan Howard in the North, Laceys in the South and East and Salon Concepts in the South West and Wales.

Courses feature all aspects of the JOICO product portfolio from Blonde Life to LumiShine along with techniques, information and advice to help your business grow. Many exciting courses are scheduled in all three education centres, with the new Masterpiece Collection showcasing cutting and colouring techniques using JOICO Vero K-PAK and the new V-3 cutting and styling training, which complements the new JOICO launch JoiFull, will take place throughout the year.

All three JOICO partners understand that education is vital to ensure you and your entire team know how to use all JOICO products, remain motivated and continue to deliver outstanding service, performance and amazing results every time.

ALAN HOWARD Alan Howard run an extensive educational program from 17 training facilities.

There are also 24 branches where customers can contact and book education.

You can book online through the website and read through a description of the course – date – location. Alan Howard regularly collaborate with JOICO and host look and learn workshops with members of the JOICO European Design Team, European Color Design team, Marc Antoni Artistic Team and international guest artists such as Larissa Love.

Contact details: www.alanhoward.co.uk 01619 684 040 helen@alanhoward.co.uk

SALON CONCEPTS At Salon Concepts their focus is to provide the best motivational education, together with full business support.

They are dedicated to supporting hairdressers and focus on providing unique and inspirational education, working with the JOICO team to provide the very best in educational support. As an essential element to maintaining a pro-active, motivated salon, with a team that is trained to the highest standards, Salon Concepts offer both tailored JOICO in-salon education and practical education at their training academy.

Contact details: www.salonconcepts.co.uk 01934 623 129 enquiries@salonconcepts.co.uk

LACEYS Laceys offer courses for beginners to the most experienced stylist that are looking to be motivated and inspired.

Laceys works closely with JOICO educators as well as the JOICO European Design team, the European Color Design team and the Marc Antoni Artistic Team, offering the best quality education from design, colour, hands-on sessions with international and national hairdressers. From listening to the requests of JOICO clients they have tailored sessions to build confidence within your salon to allow your business to grow.

Contact details: www.laceyshairsupplies.co.uk O1189 302 338 education@laceys.biz

JOICO Education 2020 dates are available from each distribution partner, contact them for full details on how you can experience the JOI of Education.

European Design Team

European Color Design Team

Marc Antoni Artistic Team

MIND YOUR OWN BUSINESS With the Election over and Brexit being ‘done’, perhaps this year will encourage some much-needed business positivity?

With a focus on bettering business for 2020, our Business Special will focus on key subjects faced by salon owners and offer invaluable advice for much needed improvements, be it for the salon, for the team or simply for yourself. Help is at hand from our stellar pool of industry insiders and training providers who, drawing on their extensive knowledge, experience and expertise, will impart their words of wisdom, inspiration and information to put the passion into your 2020 salon business.

50 PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER

IN HIS PRIME TV hair stylist M I C H A E L D O U G L A S may have hit the bigtime broadcasting to millions of viewers on BBC’s The One Show, but he hasn’t turned his back on his industry roots.

Hairdressing is a career which can take you in all kinds of directions. You could end up collaborating with fashion brands, educating in academies or giving seminars, working your magic behind the scenes at photo shoots, travelling the world as a brand ambassador, or translating the latest looks as a session stylist. And that’s before even dipping into the whole host of opportunities there are to pursue in every high street salon.

Enter Michael Douglas. A man who has explored – and arguably mastered - all of these routes. But he’s also cracked one other realm of hairdressing which has eluded so many others. He has managed to go prime time.

You’ll most likely recognise Michael from BBC’s The One Show. It’s the TV programme which has catapulted him into the homes of up to seven million viewers nightly. Bringing ‘hair’ to the forefront of the teatime TV agenda is something that he does with ease. In fact, his slots are regularly rated as the most watchable segments of this magazine show format. But what has singled him out as the breakthrough hair act of our time? And what does it take for a hair stylist to ‘cut it’ in the world of TV? Like so many others in the hair profession, Michael was ambivalent about school. He admits that while he wasn’t exactly a rule breaker, he wouldn’t describe himself as a hard worker either.

“To be honest, I wasn’t entirely sure why I was there,” he laughs. With college sounding like a nightmare and family circumstances putting on the pressure to earn a wage, Michael decided at the age of 15 that rather than continue his studies, he needed to get a job.

“My friend’s older brother, Phil was like a local celeb. He had this rock star image and got to hang out with girls. It looked bloody great,” Douglas explains. He started out doing taster sessions at Every Generation on a Saturday, and discovered he was something of a natural. That’s not to say it was a compelling, or easy career path.

Coming from self-confessed humble roots in the small Northern town of Leyland, Lancashire, neutralising 20-30 perms a day challenged the accepted stereotypes of his background.

“Leyland was mainly an industrial town and hairdressing wasn’t the natural career choice for a guy like me,” Michael admits. He very nearly switched the salon for a workshop and tried his luck as a motorcycle mechanic. And there was always a fanciful urge to become a rock star.

Growing up, Michael was almost always in one band or another and made sure he looked the part with an ever-changing image modelled on his idols from Michael Hutchence to Jim Morrison. Dreadlocks, perms, hair extensions - he had them all. “Being under 5’10” I grew up feeling a bit invisible, so I made a statement by looking alternative,” he confesses.

Fortuitously, Michael stuck with the hairdressing and honed his craft learning how to do flat tops, perms, roller sets, child haircuts, proper round brush blow dries, and most of all, nailing the art of working fast.

In the early 90s, he made the move to nearby Preston, describing it in his eyes at the time as “the big city”. Not quite, but little did he know that this was a move which would eventually launch him on the capital.

He went to work for a stylist called Gary Spencer at Rafters Hair Studio. The influential role that Gary played has remained with Michael ever since. “Gary changed the course of my life,” Michael admits. “I’ve never met anyone so motivated. He taught me that hairdressing wasn’t just a way to earn a pay cheque, it was a career.”

At the age of just 18, Michael was fast-tracked through the salon hierarchy at Rafters. Discovering a talent for teaching and with a natural rapport with people, which has underpinned his future success, he pretty swiftly started educating around the North West. This role saw him spending two days a week in the salon and three days sharing his skills and knowledge in seminars as part of Gary’s popular academy.

He may very well have stayed there. Young, earning good money and enjoying this glamorous career which allowed him to express himself, he was loving the lifestyle. But just when all was going swimmingly, disaster struck and Michael found himself with a series of collapsed lungs. He spent two years in and out of the intensive care unit of Blackpool Victoria Hospital, at one point slipping into a coma, which left him paralysed for two weeks.

PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 51

Naturally this left Michael’s new-found career in limbo. “I simply couldn’t get to work,” he explains. But while recuperating, he met the second pivotal person in his career trajectory. David Thomas at David Thomas Hair Studio had become a good friend and promised Douglas that when he got better there would be a job waiting for him. “He came to see me in hospital and said, ‘when you get out, come and work for me’,” he recalls.

Michael wasn’t long in this position before he spotted the opportunity which would define a whole new path for him. Wella were advertising for a technical trainer for their London academy. With typical confidence, he applied, aced the interview and before he knew it had packed his bags and headed to the infamous Wella Studios in London at the age of just 21 years old.

“I can’t lie it wasn’t an easy transition at first,” Michael recalls. “I’d been ill, then moved to London in a short space of time. Being a Northern hairdresser in the big city was a cultural shock. I was meeting new people and seeing a whole new world.” Michael was instantly surrounded by icons of the hair industry. In fact, on day one, he crossed paths with Nicky Clarke working as a guest artist, and he was soon mixing with the likes of Patrick Cameron, Trevor Sorbie and Joshua Galvin.

Through a process of watching and learning, Michael was storing up all the knowledge he’d maybe need one day to secure his position amongst the elite. “I was teaching perming, colouring and cutting to all kinds of people,” he says. “Without a doubt, by learning something, practicing it then teaching it, you become better yourself.”

Equally, no one was in any doubt about Michael’s charisma, and the edge this was giving him in his teaching style. There’s a warmth and humour in his presentation which make him a natural. It’s no surprise that stand-up comedy was something he dabbled in at one point. There were gigs at The Kings Head in Crouch End and The Phoenix on New Cavendish Square. And while writing the material and getting the gigs became too time-consuming alongside his day job to take too seriously, there’s no doubt his future as a presenter was taking shape. He credits this spell as instrumental in helping him feel comfortable in front of an audience. Plus it did – and still does - help him find the fun in a world that can sometimes be lacking it.

Michael worked at the Wella Studio in London for seven years between the ages of 21 and 28 and was then promoted to work for Wella’s consumer products division as an ambassador. He describes this kind of work as “precise and very detailed. The budgets were immense – we’re talking the biggest shampoos in the world,” he recalls. This launchpad saw him work in consumer advertising, help bring cutting-edge formulations to the mass market, as well as deal with the press and participate creatively on shows and shoots. There was barely any ‘strand’ of hair he had left untouched.

Which brings us to the – as yet – untapped world of TV. Without doubt there was a burning desire in Michael to piece together all his

“Without a doubt, by learning something, practicing it then teaching it, you become better yourself.”

52 PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER

skills and break into the TV industry. In an era where Jamie Oliver was making food accessible to even the most ‘un-foody’ of people, he wondered why he couldn’t he do the same for hair? “My objective,” he explains, “was to make shows which even a bald man would find entertaining.”

A chance encounter with TV producer Andy Abrahams on a stag do in Budapest ignited the spark even more. The duo started exploring ideas and the next thing you knew, Abrahams was pitching a concept him and Michael filmed in Camden Market to the Discovery Health Channel.

Labelling himself ‘The Hairman’, Michael would chase people down in the street and cut their hair. “The hair part of it was incidental though,” Michael reflects, “we were actually making TV about real life and human connections.”

The channel loved it and commissioned 30 episodes which would be aired as four-minute long segments to run around the commercial breaks. Evolving into makeover show, The Stylistic, the show got dubbed into 22 languages and sold all around the world. Despite its success, there was still resistance to the concept of hair as a viable TV topic from other networks. “Regardless of our best efforts, no one wanted to commission TV shows about hair,” Michael explains. “Sadly, the world of TV doesn’t look at hair with a huge amount of respect.”

Luckily though, after seeing a showreel of his work as ‘The Hairman’, what did appeal to the bosses at the BBC was Michaels’s easy presenting style and honest, northern humour. He was signed up as part of the pilot for new evening format, The One Show, and he became known as The Street Barber.

“I couldn’t believe it,” he confesses. “Here I was, finally on prime time BBC doing hair. But I think what worked is that the concept was slightly irreverent – we were out and about around the UK, meeting people in an original and interesting way. We don’t take ourselves too seriously. The most important objective is entertainment – whether we can get an audience to laugh or smile.” The concept clearly works. Twelve and a half years later Michael is one of the only existing members of the original presenting line-up and The Street Barber is The One Show’s longest-running segment.

You could imagine that with new-found TV infamy, not to mention the illustrious list of clients he’s worked with – film stars, supermodels, and a long-standing role as Davina McCall’s hair stylist, Michael could be tempted to turn his back on his hair roots. Quite the opposite though.

He’s an advocate of the UK industry and determined to follow his future within it.

In fact, his proudest moment isn’t a starry TV recollection, it’s acknowledgment from one of the all-time hair greats that fills him with pride. “I had been asked to put together the hair concepts for a fashion show by designer Lainey Keogh,” Michael reminisces. “It was a creatively challenging undertaking – the girls were being sent down the runway with almost reptilian hairstyles comprising of really intricate braiding, cornrows and tiny, delicate scalp braids. It took hours and a huge amount of work from the team. I didn’t even realise he was in the audience, but afterwards Vidal Sassoon came backstage and asked who had done the hair. He said it was the best hair in any show he’s ever seen.”

Michael admits he loves his job “whatever that is,” and he’d like to materialise his commitment to hair by being the brains behind a brand. “I’ve never wanted to open salons, and anyway I don’t think I’d be very good at it,” he confesses. “But I do have a lot of experience of consumer brands, and I’m keen to pour everything I’ve learnt into my own range.” The details are currently under wraps, but the products will have a very defined purpose. It’s safe to say they will sum up what Michael stands for and capitalise on the reputation he’s built through his TV work. “It’s exciting,” he explains, “I’m a hairstylist first and foremost and this range will capture just that.”

There’s no hint of grandeur with Michael. Quite the opposite. He is a down-to-earth hairstylist from Lancashire who happens to have a talent for TV presenting. You don’t have to be a genius to realise it’s this sincerity that makes him so relatable on the TV. “I’ve never tried to intellectualise something which is actually quite straightforward,” he acknowledges. “If I can help change perceptions of hair even slightly in my lifetime, I’ll be happy.”

“I do have a lot of experience of consumer brands, and I’m keen to pour everything I’ve learnt into my own range.”

Look out for ‘An Appointment with Michael Douglas’, an exciting, fresh venture with Professional Hairdresser coming next month.

ED-VERTORIAL

HEADMASTERS NEW LONDON ACADEMY OPENS FEBRUARY 2020

SEAT OF

LEARNING

For over three decades, Headmasters has been delivering beautiful, fashionable, confidence-boosting hair to clients in over 60 locations and is now set to open the doors of its brand new London Academy in February 2020. The academy will be open to independent hairdressers and salons wanting to benefit from the expertise and experience of the talented Creative Ambassadors lead by Headmasters Creative and Communications Director Andrew Barton.

The new Headmasters London Academy has been designed as a creative hub to facilitate learning and share hairdressing skills. Whether you’re looking for inspirational new cutting and colouring techniques or you need to brush up on classics cuts and build on your current skills – there is the perfect course for you. Each course has been specially crafted to help you achieve your goals and enhance your knowledge with bitesize information that you can take back to the salon and work with straight way.

MEET THE CREATIVE TEAM Dedicated to taking the hottest trends and translating them into beautiful, wearable styles for the salon floor, the Headmasters Creative Ambassadors are industry experts specialising in session, cutting and colouring. The team work on so many prestigious events from Fashion Weeks to editorial magazine shoots and use these experiences and skills to teach thousands of hairdressers in the UK and across the globe as well as working with numerous celebrities and influencers as well as maintaining very busy salon columns.

Nicole Iroh, Headmasters Creative Ambassador is an expert in all hair THE CREATIVE TEAM: textures. She specialises in Afro Caribbean hair and has won the Creative Director, Andrew Barton leads, coaches and inspires the L’Oreal Colour Trophy Mizani Afro Look Award. Nicole also heads up Headmasters renowned artistic team to ensure the Headmasters Pro Session Team and is a exacting standards of hairdressing across the “AT HEADMASTERS WE CARE regular at Fashion Weeks across the globe every sixty-strong salon group.

PASSIONATELY ABOUT THE season. Nicole is passionate about catwalk hair PERSONAL DEVELOPMENT OF ALL and was the hair lead for Graduate Fashion Jonathan Soons, Headmasters Creative OUR TEAMS WITH EDUCATION AT week 2019.

Ambassador is in high demand for beauty THE VERY HEART OF ALL WE DO. editorial shoots, journalist appointments and OUR REPUTATION FOR CREATING Alfie Pfeffer, Headmasters Creative Colour educating the Headmasters team. His strengths WEARABLE, BEAUTIFUL HAIR IS Ambassador is a passionate colour technician are in Session Styling and precision cutting and PART OF THE HEADMASTERS DNA, dedicated to creating new techniques and he has a reputation for creating beautiful, soft ALONGSIDE PROMOTING FROM continual learning. Alfie is a favourite with but cool girl hair.

WITHIN AND HELPING OUR TEAMS Instagram Influencers as he continually pushes TO DEVELOP THEIR CAREERS. I AM colour boundaries.

Gareth Williams, Headmasters Creative THIRLLED TO BE ABLE TO SHARE Ambassador and Colour Lead, colours are loved THIS EXPERTISE WITH THE WIDER Clare Hansford, Headmasters Creative by editors and influencers and he is famed for HAIRDRESSING COMMUNITY WITH Ambassador lives and breathes fashion and expensive looking blondes and in-depth formula THE LAUNCH OF OUR NEW when not found backstage at Fashion Week, she knowledge which means his blondes are clean, LONDON ACADEMY.” will be teaching session skills to the Headmasters his brunettes have shine and depth and his reds ANDREW BARTON HEADMASTERS team, on photo shoots or with her dedicated and creative colours have vibrancy and life.

CREATIVE AND COMMUNICATIONS celebrity fans.

DIRECTOR

2020 education dates TUESDAY 25TH FEBRUARY 2020 Inspirational Cutting with Andrew Barton & Jonathan Soons This one-day trend focused course is combined with innovative cutting techniques to inspire salon creativity and maximise your column through demonstration and hands on practical.

COST: £200 MONDAY 23RD MARCH 2020 HM Balayage with Alfie Pfeffer & Clare Hansford Balayage is the most googled hair term right now and has become a salon classic. This one-day course shares a variety of commercial balayage techniques and applications to inspire, improve skills, timings and deliver colour your clients really want.

COST: £150 WEDNESDAY 15TH APRIL 2020 Cut & Colour with Andrew Barton & Gareth Williams Inspired by the Headmasters Fundamentals this one-day course will equip you with the knowledge to create styles your clients will book in for time and time again. Aiming to up skill commercial salon techniques this is a course for stylists of all experience. Guaranteed to give fresh ideas, boost confidence and to encourage creativity through demonstration and hands on practical.

COST: £200 WEDNESDAY 6TH MAY 2020 Classic Cutting with Jonathan Soons & HM Creative The foundation to all cutting skills, Headmasters Fundamentals is a one-day cutting course designed to help you master precision hair cutting standards while building knowledge and confidence for the commercial salon environment. Ideal for entry level stylists or those returning to the industry.

COST: £130 WEDNESDAY 17TH JUNE 2020 Inspirational Cutting with Andrew Barton & Jonathan Soons This one-day trend focused course is combined with innovative cutting techniques to inspire salon creativity and maximise your column through demonstration and hands on practical.

COST: £200

MONDAY 27TH JULY 2020 HM Balayage with Alfie Pfeffer & Clare Hansford Balayage is the most googled hair term right now and has become a salon classic. This one-day course shares a variety of commercial balayage techniques and applications to inspire, improve skills, timings and deliver colour your clients really want.

COST: £150 TUESDAY 25TH AUGUST 2020 Cut & Colour with Andrew Barton & Gareth Williams Inspired by the Headmasters Fundamentals this one-day course will equip you with the knowledge to create styles your clients will book in for time and time again. Aiming to up skill commercial salon techniques this is a course for stylists of all experience. Guaranteed to give fresh ideas, boost confidence and to encourage creativity through demonstration and hands on practical.

COST: £200 WEDNESDAY 16TH SEPTEMBER 2020 Classic Cutting with Jonathan Soons & HM Creative The foundation to all cutting skills, Headmasters Fundamentals is a one-day cutting course designed to help you master precision hair cutting standards while building knowledge and confidence for the commercial salon environment. Ideal for entry level stylists or those returning to the industry.

COST: £130 MONDAY 26TH OCTOBER 2020 HM Balayage with Alfie Pfeffer & Clare Hansford Balayage is the most googled hair term right now and has become a salon classic. This one-day course shares a variety of commercial balayage techniques and applications to inspire, improve skills, timings and deliver colour your clients really want.

COST: £150 WEDNESDAY 11TH NOVEMBER 2020 Classic Cutting with Jonathan Soons & Pervin The foundation to all cutting skills, Headmasters Fundamentals is a one-day cutting course designed to help you master precision hair cutting standards while building knowledge and confidence for the commercial salon environment. Ideal for entry level stylists or those returning to the industry.

COST: £130

FURTHER COURSES AS WELL AS BESPOKE TRAINING IS AVAILABLE ON REQUEST AND GROUP BOOKINGS OF TWO OR MORE PEOPLE ARE OFFERED A GROUP DISCOUNT OF 20%.

PLEASE CONTACT ACADEMY@HEADMASTERS.COM THE NEW HEADMASTERS LONDON ACADEMY IS LOCATED AT:12-14 FULHAM BROADWAY, SW6 1AA.

PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 55

PRICE

WARS D E B B I E D I G B Y does the maths When I opened my first salon, 30 years ago, my wage bill was less than 40% of the hairdressing turnover. Today, my five salons wage bill hovers around 55%. That is 15% more of the turnover going to wages. What has changed to cause the cost of employing people to increase so dramatically over that time?

HOLIDAY PAY The manager of my Braintree salon, Elaine, was with the business 30 years ago. We were discussing recently that back then, she was earning about £200 per week on commission but her basic wage was £80pw.

When she took her annual two weeks paid holiday, £80 is what she was paid. Now before anyone starts hating on me, it is important to realise that there was no legal requirement for paid holiday back then. Statutory paid holiday was introduced with the Working Time Regulations (WTR) in 1998. I want to put on the record, I support the WTRs, I think it is important that workers are protected and have work patterns that encourage good health and happiness. As of today regulations require employees to be paid 28 days holiday at the average of the last 12 weeks pay. This is about to change in 2020 to an average of the last 52 weeks pay to make the holiday pay fairer for both employees and employers.

EMPLOYER CONTRIBUTIONS As well as the contributions my employees make on their wages, there are other contributions that have to be made by the employer. Today Employer NI Contributions are 13.8%; I recall this contribution used to be 10.45%. Up until April 2014 Statutory Sick Pay was reclaimable for small businesses, today the cost burden of sickness is on the employer. And lastly, workplace pensions came into force in October 2012 starting with employee contributions of 1% rising to the current contribution of 3%.

Laid out in this manner, it is easy to see how the wage costs of a salon have changed over the years. There are other costs which bear heavily on a salon, rent and business rates being the biggest, and it is important to note that these costs are not unique to the hairdressing industry. All industries have endured the same legislation and cost changes. I also want to point out – there are some costs that have reduced over those 30 years. For example, I am spending less on marketing and education, but overall, the fact remains, costs have risen massively. It begs the question: ‘How has the industry survived these changes?’

INDUSTRY IN FLUX The NHF reports that self-employment is on the rise with 57% of our industry self employed. I believe this rise is a direct effect of businesses trying to discover a new model of profitability and I, like many others,

56 PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER

are watching and learning as we attempt to navigate through the flux. Personally I think the rise in self-employment has plateaued, and in our recent recruitment drives at Feathers, we are seeing many self-employed hairdressers applying for employed positions. But the challenge that engages my management team and I the most intently at this moment is the challenge of competing with other business models on price.

TRADITIONAL EMPLOYMENT MODEL VS OTHER MODELS What is very clear is that we can’t compare apples to strawberries, as they are different. And so are the different business models we have in our industry right now. We have salon chains, High St salons, chair rent salons, home salons, mobile hairdressers and popping up now, mobile salons. These all have very different cost models. Ask any accountant, and the price of goods and services should be set taking careful consideration to the cost of providing those goods and services. Take restaurants as an example, if we need to satisfy our hunger we can get a fast food meal for under £5, but if we want to experience fine dining with great service we should expect to pay a great deal more. Our industry as a whole suffers from a phenomena known as cascade pricing where new businesses try to undercut the ‘competition’ and simply charge less for their services in the hope of gaining clients. In fact when you look around at the pricing of our industry, it is no wonder that the industry is in turmoil, the price of a cut and blow dry varies immensely. I see on a daily basis, salons undercutting their own prices so they can capture a client at the last minute.

CHARGE THE RIGHT PRICE FOR YOUR SERVICE A recent study carried out by Price Waterhouse Cooper of 15,000 global respondents found that consumers would pay a price premium for quality. Here is what the study showed consumers want; Speed and efficiency topped the list (80%), followed by knowledgeable and helpful employees (78%). 71% said they think a company’s employees have a significant impact on their experience but only 44% believe the employees understand their needs well. If you believe that experience is key to your business model, introduce an ‘experience budget’ and spend it on your clients in the salon. Ensure your team has the right tools to be able to deliver the best services and products; one of the most important of these tools in my opinion is their ability to dialogue elegantly and professionally with your client. For the team, have a rewarding tiered pricing strategy and ensure they understand how they can be promoted through the tiers to charge the highest price and therefore earn the most money for their effort and ability.

LET’S GET TO THE

ROOT OF THE PROBLEM Continuing her series, T R I S H A B U L L E R MIT SRSH Senior, consultant trichologist and owner of the award-winning Ciente salon in Berkhamsted, goes back to basics and looks at ways to help your salon win on the high street. Here Trisha answers some basic questions that clients are always asking in salon, questions that it is important to know the correct answer to.

WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN A HAIR TREATMENT AND A CONDITIONER ?

Hair treatments have a different action as they are made up of a positive charge (cationic) and smaller molecules, this helps with attracting the hair treatment into the hair cortex, rehydrating and strengthening the hair. Hair should stretch and return a third of its length and back without breaking, so the moisture content and protein content are important for bouncy healthy hair . A conditioner coats the cuticle and has larger molecules. It plays an important role as it closes the cuticles, or fills in the missing gaps, which reflects daylight – creating shiny hair.

SHOULD YOU SHAMPOO YOUR HAIR PRIOR TO A HAIR COLOUR SERVICE? Shampooing hair prior to a colour service is absolutely fine providing you do not massage the scalp, as this sensitises the scalp producing sebum from overstimulation .If someone has resistant hair or a build-up of products on their hair it can cause a barrier, so removing product build up and also softening the roots can create an excellent base for your colour to be applied, resulting in even results, and longevity of colour.

SINCE BECOMING A VEGETARIAN MY HAIR HAS LOST ITS DENSITY AND IS HARD TO HOLD A STYLE – IS THIS NORMAL? ■ Our hair is a complex chain of amino acids, that is protein, so it is important to consume a protein diet, B12 is the most important for healthy hair growth , which is largely found in lean red meat, liver and offal, this is absorbed by out gut which is the most effective way of absorption, B12 is also found in leafy green vegetables. However we do not uptake this in the same way as red meat, hence our hair can become compromised over a period of time leaving our hair weak, difficult to grow, difficult to style and sometimes can be forced into a premature resting phase, creating a excessive shedding, which gives less density of hair on the scalp .

■ Our hair follicles are fed by tiny capillaries attached to the hair bulb, and this carries nutrition, minerals and vitamins to our hair. The hair growth cycle has three stages: 1)A growing phase lasting 2-7 years. 2)A transitional phase lasting 10 days. 3)A resting phase lasting three months.

■ When we change our diet, lifestyle or medical habits, this will eventually have some impact on our hair growth cycle. It can take anything from three months up to two years before you notice a change in hair density or hair condition.

■ Our hair is a barometer of what is going on within, so when changes occur don’t ignore, as prevention is better than cure.

■ Our blood will always feed our important organs that keep us alive first and foremost, the hair skin and nails will receive whatever is left. So if you decide to change your nutritional lifestyle, first have blood tests to see your

levels of iron, potassium, thyroid endocrine and zinc.

■ Everyone is an individual so what is good for one individual can be another’s poison.

MY HAIR IS FINE AND GREASY, I NEVER USE CONDITIONER BECAUSE OF THIS, BUT MY HAIR IS SO DIFFICULT TO STYLE AS IT IS ALWAYS FLY AWAY – WHAT CAN I DO? Shampoo your hair daily using an appropriate shampoo for your hair type, an exfoliator would be great to cleanse the scalp gently and remove any build up. You can also apply the shampoo first prior to water, as water creates a skate pond effect, such as a greasy pan when you apply water – you see the water/fat molecules running off without removing the grease.

So by applying the shampoo first the cleansing agent in the shampoo will adhere to the grease far quicker removing the oil more effectively, this will not feel nice as it will not lather, but the second shampoo will, therefore leaving your scalp free of oil/sebum and giving more body to the roots.

You should apply a conditioner suitable for your hair texture. If it is fine, use a lightweight conditioner, this will protect the inner cortex, it will stop your static electricity in the hair as you have used a positive charge action in a conditioner, but avoid the roots, apply to the hair length only. Rinse thoroughly and always use an appropriate lightweight styling product to protect from heat and environmental damage. Fine hair is more prone to breakage as the cuticle layers are generally far less dense than in course hair.

I HAVE BEEN CHEMICALLY STRAIGHTENING MY HAIR FOR OVER THREE YEARS NOW, HOWEVER MY HAIR DOES NOT SEEM TO GROW VERY FAST ANYMORE AND THE ENDS BREAK EASILY? Chemically straightening hair does, over a period of time, deplete the hair structure and cause the density throughout the middle and ends to reduce.

If you were to see under a microscope the damage that is caused to the cortex, the inner hair structure, you would have a better understanding of the how the hair, albeit has an incredible tensile strength, can only withstand a certain amount of disulphide bonds and salt linkages to be changed constantly. New hair treatments have helped to give the hair a healthy look and feel, but over a period of time the hair will start to become fragile, weak and break, causing irreparable damage, that even hair treatments cannot repair. Try to avoid over processing and repeat application on already relaxed hair, use pre-treatments, insist your clients use professional home care regimes, and do not leave it up to the client to choose their cheaper brands from the supermarkets. Good professional products do make a difference. Over my 45 years in the industry I have clients who think I am a miracle worker. My simple philosophy is an excellent home care regime recommended by your professional hairstylist.

I call this a long term investment, more expensive initially but in the long term clients spend less on cheaper brands and the hair looks fantastic. The proof is in the pudding.

PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 57

SUNDAY

CLUB

Opening seven days a week seemed like the best decision for K E N P I C T O N when he opened his eponymous salon in Mermaid Quay, Cardiff. But here he explains why he’s moved away from that decision and how his Sunday Club is now proving to be the right way forward.

I have always wanted to have a super salon, one space with one team delivering the very best hairdressing service for all our clients and with that I felt strong that opening Sunday would be essential. And it was!

Sundays became as quickly fully booked as Saturdays but it soon presented other challenges for us as a business. Over time there began to be a sense of negativity around having to work every other Sunday within the team and it was also becoming increasingly difficult to get everyone together for team meetings and training without having to bring people in on their days off. The challenge now was that the clients loved Sunday appointments! It provided weekend clients with another option when Saturday was fully booked and our clients that worked in retail particularly appreciated this.

So the Sunday Club was born, at the start of the year I set down specific Sundays we would open. I worked it as being open every 4 weeks, so it fitted in for clients to be able to rebook as Sunday regulars. Setting down all the 2019 dates in one go also meant I could work around bank holiday weekends and Easter so the team felt the benefit of those lovely long weekends!

The whole team are in for Sunday Club so it’s a full and busy salon day but we’ve changed it up slightly to create a more intimate vibe.

The three ‘p’s make our Sunday Club – prosecco, pastries and papers! Every guest is

58 PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER

welcomed in to the salon with a glass of fizz (or orange juice if they prefer), the Sunday papers are all available for whichever supplement takes their fancy. There’s a choice of pastries available and because we love to support other local businesses there’s always a locally made Welsh cake on offer too. The music is more of a relaxed playlist so all in all there’s very much a “easy like Sunday morning” feeling going on.

Clients love it as much as the team do and it’s had an added bonus too, in that the salon is closed for clients on the Tuesday following Sunday Club so team meetings and training days are much more easily organised! We take these Tuesdays as opportunities to do whatever the business needs, whether that’s bringing an educator in for a guest training day or salon maintenance, like rewiring the phone system.

The flexibility of this Tuesday helps the business move fluidly around everything we need to do.

Thinking outside of the box and working out a compromise on Sunday appointments has led to a win, win situation for Ken and his team.

Since starting in January this year every Sunday Club has been fully booked and the upcoming ones are heading in the same direction, food for thought when it comes to how and when salon businesses deal with their opening hours.

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LOOK OUTSIDE

AND LEARN Award-winning and reputed businessman P H I L S M I T H brings knowledge from successful brands in other industries and looks at what we can learn from them. In this, his final interview of the series, he talks to J O T U T C H E N E R - S H A R P, founder of Scamp & Dude.

Jo’s story is an incredible one. I first heard of Jo when she started her own PR agency, Beauty Seen in 2007. Eight successful years later Jo sold her shares in the agency shortly before suffering a brain haemorrhage, which lead to her leaving her children for a long period of time while undergoing lifesaving brain surgery. Today Jo is known for her brand Scamp & Dude, a clothing range created to help children feel more secure when apart from their love ones. Her trademark slogan ‘a superhero has my back’ has seen Jo become a spokesperson for other independent brands when it comes to IP protection, having found herself in legal disputes with larger named retailers for infringements of her much-loved slogan. Here I speak with Jo about creating a brand 10 years after launching her agency.

PHIL: Thank you for taking the time to speak with me Jo. Your story is one I have been following with great interest over the recent months. Your brand is just over 2.5 years old – what have you found to be the most rewarding and challenging parts of starting a brand?

JO: The most rewarding parts are being able to be really creative and do what I love every day, I never take that for granted and couldn’t love what I do more. Also seeing how my brand helps so many people every day is hugely rewarding, the messages I get from customers telling me how we’ve helped their child through a tough time makes all the long hours worth it. The hardest parts are never being able to switch off, you never stop and it can be exhausting and overwhelming at times.

PHIL: How important do you feel social media has been in building your brand?

JO: Social media is essential to help build a brand. It’s how you get your story out there and how you communicate with your customers. It’s as essential as having an online shop in my eyes so I’m always baffled when I meet other small business owners who don’t have an Instagram account! To me not having an Instagram account for your business is like having a shop in the middle of the desert and expecting people to find you.

PHIL: The ‘a superhero has my back’ rip-off has been well documented online and in the press. How do you manage to take-on and win against such giant brands as Asda and Next?

JO: I’ll never stand by and let someone take advantage of what I have created. I have gone through far too much to stand by and watch the big

brands carelessly replicate what I’m doing. Since being ill, I don’t have the fear many other independent brands have. I know so many small businesses who have been ripped off by the big guys and are too scared to take them on which makes me so sad. You can’t just turn a blind eye and let them get away with it otherwise it will just continue to happen. It happens too much in our industry and it just shows an extreme lack of creativity and integrity.

PHIL: How do you make your brand heard in such a noisy arena?

JO: I try and bring something new to the table as often as possible, my customers get excited by newness and love to see what we are up to. We make sure we bring exciting and different campaigns to our customers too enabling them to help others at the same time as treating themselves or their kids.

PHIL: You’ve recently opened a store, which goes against the grain for brands at the moment, what was your thinking behind this and what impact has it had on the brand?

JO: The main reason we opened a store was for the office space, we needed a place for the growing team to work from and the shop has office space below it. I’d also enjoyed taking part in the Instagram pop up shop earlier in the year and loved meeting customers face to face. It’s really incredibly valuable to be able to meet customers and to talk to them and understand what they want to see from us. I always try and get customer feedback on Instagram and include them in decision making at times too which they really enjoy, so it’s great to be able to do that in store. We’ve built an amazing community on Instagram who are all part of our journey and so it’s really great for the team to actually get to meet them face to face in the shop.

PHIL: The power of independence should never be underestimated and people like Jo who stand up for what they believe in, while simultaneously helping others should be applauded. Independent brands are exciting for customers, they invest in the people behind the brand and in turn the brand invests in them. It has a 360 degree effect. Being honest, visible and personal are three key messages we can take from Jo’s experiences and translate into our own salon businesses. There’s no point opening a salon in the desert and hoping people will find you. You need to offer a service you believe in, one you’re passionate about and one that excites the clients – then you’ll never ‘work’ a day in your life.

PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 59

SAVE THE DATE

pur el y h air, p ure ly f or p rof e ssiona ls

BOOK FREE TICKETS AT WWW.PROHAIRLIVE.CO.UK

MANCHESTER CENTRAL 23 RD -24 TH FEBRUARY 2020

ARTIST: ANDREW SMITH PHOTOGRAPHY: CHRIS BULEZUIK

ED–VERTORIAL

Victoria Bailey and Imogen Rayson from Lara Boot Hairdressing for Schwarzkopf Professional

At Schwarzkopf Professional, we believe that the best opportunities for growth are grounded in education – and that education comes in many forms; from hands-on training under the watchful eye of an expert, to the experience gained working alongside a great mentor backstage.

The Schwarzkopf Professional ASK Education journey, available in seven different locations across the UK and Ireland, is designed to take your professional skills to the next level. As we shape the future of hairdressing, we are continuously evolving and innovating, so you and your salon team can choose the right level to raise your game. ASK Education is about opportunity. World-class education created by hairdressers for hairdressers. Cutting-edge courses that combine precise technical knowledge with creative freedom. We believe that continual education builds highly-motivated salon teams, strengthens client loyalty and ultimately increases salon profitability.

Education has always been at the heart of our industry.

It’s only through acquiring the knowledge and skills to master our craft that we are then able to invent, innovate and blaze a trail towards tomorrows trends today.

Mickael Jehanno and Beth Louks from Mickael and Ludovic for Schwarzkopf Professional

SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL ARE ‘DEDICATED TO THE PROFESSION OF HAIRDRESSING’

2020 seminars LONDON

MANCHESTER

DUBLIN

TEXTURE SERIES WITH RICK ROBERTS Gain more confidence cutting, colouring and styling textured hair on this three-part course with Rick Roberts. From clients with tight coils and curls to those with softer waves, these texture courses will equip you with the tips, techniques and products required to work with a more diverse array of hair types, and how to promote your new found skill set back at your salon.

5th May

WORLD OF IGORA Welcome to the world of IGORA colour! In this two-day seminar, you will be immersed in the IGORA Royal range through a lively combination of theory and practical sessions.

You’ll increase your knowledge of the Schwarzkopf Professional premium colour range – opening up a whole new world of creative possibilities for your clients and your colour business!

10th – 11th February

FREEHAND SPECIALIST Are you clued up on all the skills needed to master creative colour application? This one-day course is dedicated to the art of commercial colour, including creative balayage techniques, face-framing placement and the art of ombré.

You’ll cover all of the essentials required to create fast, commercial, freehand colour and leave inspired with new ways to create salon-friendly looks, bespoke to each client.

24th February

DEFINITIVE BALAYAGE WITH JACK HOWARD This one-day seminar will demystify freehand work, leaving you confident in creating bespoke colour for each client. Jack will demonstrate key techniques, including face-framing, ponytail and freehand highlights, zone toning and lived-in colour. These will be taught through a combination of live demonstrations from Jack and a practical session, where you can get hands on and master commercial colour for yourself.

11th May

GLASGOW

#LIGHTS. CAMERA. ACTION! If you’ve ever wanted to create a photographic collection but didn’t know where to start, this is the course for you. Join one of our award-winning hairdressers on set, where you’ll cover Schwarzkopf’s Essential Looks trend edit before creating a look that will then be shot professionally. The pros will advise you on choosing the right model, makeup artist, stylist and photographer – everything you need to know about producing a photo shoot that brings your hair to life.

3rd – 4th June

CREATIVE CUTTING Step out of your comfort zone and discover the creativity of cutting. This one-day course, taught by an award-winning guest artist, will inspire you to think outside of the box when it comes to creating shapes. With their expert insight, you’ll learn new ways to combine the commercial with the creative and produce dynamic silhouettes and textures for your more cutting-edge clients.

7th September

Find out more about ASK Education online: askacademy.co.uk

Dedicated to your future care er schwarzkopfpro.com

LIFE GOALS A high-profile salon owner, award- winning hairdresser and the inventor of the eBlade scissors, R O B E R T M A S C I A V E knows all about success. But how does a hairdresser just starting out in the industry propel themselves to similar heights? Robert offers his insight into planning a personal journey to success.

Many of us look at successful people in the industry and just see the end results – but we don’t always know how these people achieved their success. The answer is almost certainly, by working extremely hard.

The first step to achieving success for yourself is to decide what success looks like for you. It looks different for everyone – not everybody want to be wealthy, or own a big house. For some the dream might be to do stage work for others it may be to run a busy column but have a great work/life balance.

SET SHORT-TERM GOALS Once you know what your idea of success is, you can start to make plans and set goals. When you are young, achieving success can seem impossible, which is why it’s important to set realistic short-term goals that will move you in the right direction.

This is what I did back when I was 17 and just starting out. I knew even then that my dream was to do shows and present to big audiences.

I used to read in the hairdressing press about successful hairdressers doing this and I knew it was what I wanted to be doing too.

My colleagues and peers at the time were not encouraging when I told them that I wanted to do show work. Most of them told me I didn’t stand a chance. It was then that I learned to be careful who I listened to. The people who were discouraging me were basing their opinions on their own experiences. Perhaps some of them had tried to achieve the same thing and failed, but that didn’t mean the same would happen to me.

So, I set myself my first short-term goal which was to be the best I could be at everything that came my way. Short-term goals are important – they are the carrot that will take you forward. If you only set long-term goals, it’s easy to run out of steam. It can be like looking up to the top of Everest and thinking ‘there’s no way I can climb that’.

My experience is that successful salon owners need good people working for them. When I started out I realised that I just needed to be good at what I did. Every opportunity that came my way, I did to the best of my ability. I was never satisfied with just being average. It’s important to always be the best you can be.

THE HARD WORK STARTS NOW Achieving your goals will involve a lot of hard work. If you want an exceptional life, you have to put in an exceptional amount of work. The good thing about putting in a lot of hard work is that you will quickly realise if you are on the right path. If you work to your full extent and you run out of steam, you’ll know that the path you are on is not the right one for you.

If you still feel inspired and want to do more, you will know that it is.

People talk about passion, but you can’t know that you are passionate

64 PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER

about something if you know nothing about it. You start to love what you are doing because of the outcome you get and the feedback you receive. That’s when your passion kicks in.

You will soon realise that the key attributes to achieving recognition for your hard work are reliability and consistency.

Once you have achieved these, you have the basic foundation for success.

FIND A MENTOR Now you have the foundations in place and a clear vision of the future you desire, it’s time to find a mentor to help you grow and elevate your work to new levels.

Don’t take the task of finding the right mentor lightly. I see a lot of hairdressers constantly moving from one salon to another. Often people come for interviews and haven’t researched the brand or the people working within it. It’s important from a young age to respect your career.

When you realise you are ready for the next stage, you need to find the person that is going to help you achieve it, which means doing your research.

It’s so much easier now than when I was starting out. You can search social media platforms, websites and, if the salon is fairly local, go and visit it as a client. There is nothing to stop you going for a blow-dry and checking out the salon and how they work.

You need to find a good match - someone you can work honestly with, and to whom you are happy to offer consistency and reliability. If you can offer that, pretty much any boss will want you.

My mentor was Guy Kremer. Before going to work with Guy I had just worked in small salons in France. I wasn’t sure whether I was good enough to make the move to the UK. I spoke to my boss who said I should go and if it didn’t work out she would take me back. That’s when I knew I must be good or there was no way she would leave the door open for me like that.

Once I started at Guy Kremer, I made sure I did much more than just the basic work. I worked outside of hours practising, and I did so in the salon so that Guy could see my commitment. If you show loyalty and commitment you will gain the respect of your employer. Guy could see that I was genuinely interested in his business.

I offered to work with him on shows. I did one but he didn’t ask me to work on the next, saying I wasn’t good enough at long hair. So, I accepted this but then practised my long hair work until I was good enough. Guy started to trust me and have the confidence that I could do things.

I started packing his kit bag for him before shows. I took pressure off of him. I made myself indispensable.

This was the start of achieving my personal vision of success. I hope it inspires you to start mapping out your own personal journey to achieving your dream career.

COVER STAR JULY/AUGUST 2017

NOVEMBER 2018

How to shoot the perfect front cover shot with renowned photographer, and winner of the 2019 TCT Awards Best International Hair and Beauty Photographer category, T O N Y L E - B R I T T O N .

Professional Hairdresser chats to celebrated photographer, Tony Le-Britton, about what it takes to create the perfect front cover shot and the tips he recommends for creating the best imagery, suitable for a front cover.

Now we have entered 2020, it’s the prime time to start thinking about your shoots this year and what you want to achieve with them – whether it be entering awards or just shooting imagery that’s suitable for your salon and attractive to consumers. Gaining a front cover with your imagery is such a great achievement but it takes a lot of hard work and there are so many things to be considered when trying to achieve shots worthy of a front cover.

Here are some of the most important things that should always be considered ahead of the shoot, and at the time of the shoot…

KNOW THE MARKET This one seems obvious but many people broadcast their images to every magazine in the hopes of picking up a cover but make sure you are only sending your work to publications that match the genre of the work you have created.

LIGHTING Lighting for covers can vary greatly from extreme hard light to much softer natural light, but make sure the image isn’t too dark or subdued. It should have enough grab to make a possible reader stop and pick up the magazine.

MODEL Models do not need to be professional or experienced but you must be able to get a true emotion out of them and it must be honest.

There is no room to hide on the cover so whatever the mood of

your shoot is, take the time to explain this to the model and your photographer. Your photographer will then work to draw this from your model.

TIMING Most magazines choose their covers months in advance. When submitting, make sure you bear the season, any trends, colours etc. in mind and plan ahead.

LAYOUT Each magazine has a different layout and it is usually kept the same for every issue. Check where the magazine title and logo go and make sure you are leaving enough room to show this without covering the main emphasis of your image.

EXCLUSIVITY Many magazines want full exclusivity, especially for a cover. This isn’t always the case but if you are looking to maximise your coverage, it’s good practice to keep things off social media until coverage has been confirmed. Could there be a better way to launch your collection than to see it on the cover?

POSE Whilst recently, there have been several full-lengths shots making their way onto the covers; the majority of covers tend to be a tighter crop. This means that your model and their pose must captivate the audience. Traditionally, cover shots were always with the models, eyes to camera so as to grab the audience’s attention.

This still stands but images from any angle can captivate, so long as they stand out and are special.

PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 65

ADVERTORIAL

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–

– – – –

Rich lather gently but thoroughly cleanses the hair Adds instant lightweight body Fuller, thicker airy volume 24-hour style retention* Instantly adds shine

*When using JoiFull Volumizing Shampoo, Conditioner and Styler as a system

JOIFULL VOLUMIZING CONDITIONER Everything fine hair could wish for from a conditioner: a formula with powerful detangling ingredients designed to create full, airy, touchable body without weighing hair down. Delivering easy-to-comb glide power and a unique, lightweight feel, this daily-use conditioner nourishes fine strands with a barely-there touch.

Clients will love it because:

– – – – –

Helps strengthen and nourishes hair Fuller, thicker, airy volume 24-hour style retention* Leaves strands tangle-free Instantly adds shine

*When using JoiFull Volumizing Shampoo, Conditioner and Styler as a system

JOIFULL VOLUMIZING STYLER To boldly amp up the appearance of fine hair, this is the hero that swoops in with body, bounce, and brilliant fullness, while saving hair from the sticky, crunchy residue of some volumisers. Experience the unique glide and slip of an airy crème, plus the molding and shaping power of a gelée. This all-in-one, game-changing hybrid will instantly transform fine strands into full, luxurious, natural-looking hair.

Clients will love it because:

–

– – – –

Easily add lasting lift and body without leaving hair stiff and crunchy Fuller, thicker, airy volume 24-hour style retention* Long-lasting humidity protection Protects from thermal damage for up to 450°F

*When using JoiFull Volumizing Shampoo, Conditioner and Styler as a system

JOICO JoiFull Shampoo, Conditioner and Styler are now available in salons worldwide, For more information about JOICO visit WWW.JOICO.EU

PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 67

LESSON LEARNT As a former Commercial Director of a London advertising agency, M I C H A E L S M I T H has applied the principles of good business to his thriving salon, Tristan Eves, with great success. This issue he shares his thought on how to run a more eco-friendly salon, and why sustainability is something we all need to sign up to.

Being more environmentally conscious is a global movement which is impossible to ignore. Far from being a trend, it’s now become a responsibility for all of us. Whether it’s as an active campaigner, changing wasteful habits at home or trying to run a sustainable business, the need to do our bit towards a greener future is everywhere. Unfortunately, in our industry it’s becoming more obvious that the individual environmental factors in your average hair salon can potentially add up to a huge impact on the planet.

By default, hair salons aren’t exactly eco-friendly businesses. When you start to think about the various aspects: water wastage, energy consumption, plastic packaging and harmful chemicals for a start, you can see how vast the challenge is. From my point of view it’s not that we don’t want to run a more sustainable salon – of course we do. But we do need to be realistic about how much we can make that our focus within the confines of our business model. At Tristan Eves we’ve carved out a reputation for first-class cuts, colour and service and we don’t want to compromise on that quality. So, the question is, what can we adapt and what can you do too?

ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT Water consumption is one of the biggest areas for any hair salon to address. Dr Denise Baden, Associate Professor at Southampton Business School, led an investigation into how hairdressers can reduce their environmental impact. It found that heating water is the most energy-intensive activity in a hair salon – far more than, for example, hair drying. She says: “Reducing the use of hot water is a clear win-win: using tepid water and shampooing once instead of twice is better for hair, saves time, money and is good for the environment.”

In fact, adopting these eco-friendly practices can save the average four-seat salon 286,000 litres of water and 24,150 kWh of energy per year, equating to an annual saving of £5,300.

We have definitely started to challenge the assumption that you need to shampoo twice. In most cases now we have found that one will suffice, and it’s an area where our clients don’t feel like they are being short changed. With the boost to your back pocket looking just as appealing as the benefits for the planet there’s definitely an incentive to get on board with this small step.

Additionally, you can save even more water by installing a flow reducer on your backwash. This simple nozzle divides the water flow into tiny particles and mixes it with air to produce a higher pressure.

Reports suggest that this type of flow reducer can cut your water bill by around 40-50 percent every year.

But what about the plethora of plastic bottles that line our shelves?

It’s not just excessive packaging that is beginning to ring alarm bells, but also the fact that the products we rely on are almost always packaged in plastic. We have experimented with offering a refill service for shampoo and conditioner, but this does come with its own set of challenges. For

68 PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER

instance, it can be time-consuming, disruptive and messy to accommodate alongside our normal daily routine. But we’re trying!

Without a doubt, the onus has to be on manufacturers to develop better, green technology for their packaging and products. For instance, bio-degradable alternatives, using less plastic, and abandoning wasteful or excessive packaging. Already we know our suppliers are making progress in this area and we wholeheartedly support this. It’s not just the packaging, but also what’s in the bottles that counts.

We stock a botanical haircare range amongst our retail products, and it’s one that we truly believe in. But until we can fully support a natural colour range and know that we can guarantee our clients the same results they currently see from the highly-advanced chemical alternatives it’s a business risk we can’t afford to take. Again, it’s not that we don’t want to get on board with the natural alternatives, it’s just not what our business reputation is built on.

FOIL IS RECYCLABLE On the subject of colour, surely the one aspect of waste we all see shining brightly at us in the salon is foils. As we know, foil is recyclable, but when it’s covered in toxic chemicals it’s a slightly different story. I’ve heard of some initiatives in Australia (who seem to be leading the charge in the green crusade) where they industrially clean the foils before recycling.

But it’s yet to catch on here, and I suspect we are all beginning to wish for a more sustainable alternative.

Without a doubt, reducing our salon’s carbon footprint is about creating simple and sustainable habits that ourselves and our staff can maintain. For instance, switching off lights or installing motion sensors for storage and staff areas, toilets and vacant treatment rooms when they aren’t in use. Talking to your team about environmental impact can encourage an eco-conscious attitude and make them think about the small changes they can make.

For us as salon owners too, smart choices can save money – switching to a green energy supplier, turning down the heating a notch or two, washing towels internally and using eco-friendly detergents on a fully loaded eco wash cycle to save water and reduce CO2 emissions. Plus purchasing appliances with good energy ratings and making sure they’re switched off when not in use, and recycling everything you can – even when your council doesn’t automatically provide this service (don’t get me started)!

While the situation can feel somewhat bleak and you can be left wondering if you’re doing ‘enough’, going greener can also be a great marketing move. As I said before, while we’re not willing to cut corners when it comes to quality, we are looking of ways to make sure that style and sustainability can go hand in hand. For the future of your business – and for the planet – it might be worth thinking about how you can make this necessary step too.

S U S T A i N A B L E

GREEN QUEEN

KARINE

Our resident environmental campaigner KARINE JACKSON talks about some tiny achievable New Year goals which could add up to a big environmental impact and money in your pocket.

We always love to hear what changes you’ve been making – here’s some inspirational steps from Pro Hair readers: @hairbymiczi: Products in glass bottles or aluminium packaging only, refill stations for customers @darrel_of_taylors: Eco towels, reusable products and recycling waste @kimgoodger1985: Recycling, Ecoheads, biodegradable capes, reusable gloves, refill service on the product

WELL DONE to you all – this is what will change our industry and in turn our planet! It’s never too late to start, and when you normalise the changes you can move on to make more.

With the New Year upon us, I’d like to ask you to set yourself a nice, easy sustainable goal – make one change a week. Get into the habit of questioning what you’re using, and honestly, start with the easy stuff! I know from experience that changing habits can seem daunting, but start small and you’ll be amazed where it takes you.

I want to share a story about how you can have an impact just by sending an email and making your voice heard. I swapped to Who Gives A Crap toilet roll and tissues because they sell themselves on being eco friendly, but I was really disappointed when I opened the tissues and there was a little piece of plastic in the top. I emailed them to say how unhappy I was and they emailed back to say that the box needed to have plastic so the tissues came out nicely one at a time, and it was a special type of plastic that biodegrades in a number of years.

Honestly, I think that’s a bit of a cop out, we’re all

capable of removing tissues without some sort of ‘guide plastic’ and this is a typical example of where we’ve become complacent and let plastic sneak into products where it’s not needed. Are we so pampered we can’t manage without these extra bits of plastic everywhere? When we really start to weigh up our needs versus the planet I think we can see some pretty obvious areas where plastic is superfluous.

Supermarkets are the worst for this – shrink wrapped coconuts and bananas for example. I buy all my veg loose now and take along my own bags. I digress…

So I replied to the email to say I didn’t think this was good enough. Imagine my unbridled joy that the next box I purchased came without the plastic! I have no idea if it was my email, or if mine was one of many, but that company made the change, and how many little pieces of plastic will that save from going into circulation? It’s brilliant and of course I then emailed them to congratulate them on their action.

We’ve also asked what problems or challenges you’re having – please always get in touch on social and I’ll find out an answer! @darrel_of_taylors: What brands or products are you using?

I go for products and brands that have values in line with ours on sustainability, environment and humans. I love it if we can reuse recycle and refill. My must-haves are Organic Colour Systems, Easydry, Brita water filters, Who Gives a Crap toilet rolls and tissues, and my green energy provider. @sarahwebleyhair asked: Where can you recycle foil and tint tubes?

Every council is different, the first step is to check what they take away.

It’s a shame all councils aren’t united on how we recycle nationally.

I source products that we can re-use, refill and recycle. The average four chair salon uses 2km of tinfoil a month which ends up in landfill where it can take up to 400 years to degrade. We recently swapped to Paper Not Foil, an innovative new product that’s a sustainable alternative to foil and can be washed and re-used two or three times before biodegrading into dust without creating toxic waste. The production of it uses 96% less energy than the manufacturing of foil, and although we still need water to clean them, we chose a washing machine that has a 10-min quick cycle.

You need to check if your tint tubes can be recycled. If they can’t, I would send them back to the manufacturer and ask them to sort it out. @hairbymiczi asked: Is there some kind of colouring cape that is reusable and will not get stained?

We’ve been using easydry gowns for a few years now – we don’t re-use them on clients but they’re recyclable – just put them in with your paper and cardboard.

@kimgoodger1985: Are disposable towels that much better for the environment?

This depends on what brand you use. Always read where they source their material. The dyes they use, are they 100% biodegradable and recyclable?

We use Easydry, and the average four stylist hair salon could save 60,000 litres of water every year just by switching (as well as energy consumption.) Easydry towels are made from 100% natural fibres, don’t contain any plastic, and are FSC certified which proves the entire supply chain is ethical and sustainable. The packaging is 100% compostable and biodegradable bags (with the OK Compost mark), in FSC cardboard boxes and they ship on recycled cardboard pallets!

We use our towels first for the client, then for cleaning the salon – I can’t stand single use anything! Because they’re lint-free, they’re ideal for cleaning and polishing mirrors, windows, back basins and floors, wiping up hair, and you can give them to clients or staff to take home as cleaning cloths; donate them to the local garage or window cleaner or other local business or to a local animal shelter for use as bedding! They’re also 100% compostable and biodegradable, breaking down in just 12 weeks after use.

I hope you’re inspired to make just one change a week, let us know!

S U S T A i N A B L E

TREE–FORESTATION REFOREST’ACTION and JOHN PAUL MITCHELL SYSTEMS in planting partnership.

REFOREST’ACTION is an environmental organisation that plants trees around the world in the areas where they’re needed most.

JOHN PAUL MITCHELL SYSTEMS made a pledge with them to plant a total of 750,000 trees by the end of 2019. Over the course of their lifespans, those trees will remove 85,000 tons of CO2 from the atmosphere.

This pledge has now been extended to plant a total of one million trees by 2021.

WHAT IS REFOREST’ACTION? B Corp certified, Reforest’Action is a social enterprise founded in 2010 by Stephane Hallaire, whose primary mission and aim is to raise awareness of the power of forests and the need to protect them. They act by preserving and restoring forests in France and around the world, because, after reducing its ecological footprint, the forest proves to be the best solution to

meet the main global challenges that condition the future of humanity: climate change and the erosion of biodiversity.

Since its creation in 2010, Reforest’Action has: ● Planted more than four million trees. ● Gathered more than 120,000 planters on reforestaction.com. ● Sensitised more than two million employees and corporate clients to the challenges of the forest. ● Generated a positive impact on the living conditions of more than 30,000 people around the world.

Their reforestation projects contribute to the development of the local economy, the restoration of the environment and the protection of biodiversity.

PARTNERSHIP WITH TEA TREE Tea Tree has long supported healthy forests, and with this initiative, the unique tree planting programme allows all Tea Tree enthusiasts and the entire hairdressing industry to use an exclusive online platform to plant trees around the world. Plant a tree, build a forest.

All tree planters receive a Tea Tree certificate like this: TEA TREE #RootedinGreen salon-success.co.uk Reforestaction.com

FIND OUT MORE WWW.RDR.LINK/HL001 70 PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER

SPOTLIGHT

IN CONTROL NEURO CTRL IS AT THE CUTTING EDGE OF HIGH TECH, HIGH STYLE HEAT STYLING AND TWO NEW LAUNCHES COMPLETE THE LINE UP. Powered by advanced technologies like SmartSense and HeatCTRL, Neuro is a state of art heat styling system that delivers next-level results for professional stylists and their most discerning clients. Neuro Tools and Neuro Liquid products are designed to work together to achieve perfect performance while protecting hair from damage.

NEW NEURO RESHAPE HEATCTRL MEMORY STYLER is a heat-activated styling cream that takes curly hair from curly to straight to wavy, styling and styling again while using heat tools with no additional products needed. The formula has HeatCTRL technology to help protect hair against

damage caused by heat tools like hair dryers, straighteners and curling irons. It can be used to extend the life of the looks you create or re-style your clients’ hair with ease.

NEW NEURO RESTORE HEATCTRL OVERNIGHT REPAIR is a leave-in hair treatment to help hair recover overnight from daily heat styling.

This reparative hair mask with HeatCTRL technology mends damaged strands, replenishes moisture, and smoothes and seals the cuticle, while helping protect against future damage. The rich, replenishing formula leaves all hair types softer and more manageable without leaving a residue on the pillow.

FOR MORE INFORMATION ON NEURO PLEASE VISIT WWW.RDR.LINK/HL002

SPOTLIGHT

A NEW ULTRA–VIOLET DUO TO HELP BLONDES KEEP THEIR COOL.

The new brass-neutralising Blonde Life Violet Shampoo and Conditioner from JOICO instantly cool brassy tones and brighten cool blonde hair, helping to maintain healthy looking hair with brilliant shine and nourish and protect fragile blonde hair.

BLONDE LIFE VIOLET SHAMPOO The Blonde Life Violet Shampoo is a brass-neutralising cleanser, free from SLS/SLES Sulfates*, that instantly banishes undesirable yellow tones, so cool blondes stay nice and icy. *SLS/SLES Sulfates = Sodium Lauryl Sulfate and Sodium Laureth Sulfate.

BLONDE LIFE VIOLET CONDITIONER Nourish and neutralise in one application of Blonde Life Violet Conditioner, the colour-balancing formula gives cool blonde hair everything it needs – shine, hydration, and protection – while sending brass packing.

Brass

banned

SO, WHAT’S THE SECRET INSIDE? Natural, exotic oils pair with JOICO’s most fortified, hair-healing ingredients and a light violet hue work together to provide shine and hydration for healthy looking, brass-free blondes: Monoi Oil: A rare, exotic blend of Coconut Oil and Tahitian Gardenia Flower, fights frizz and helps to boost shine while protecting hair from environmental damage.

Tamanu Oil: A rich, Southeast Asian UV-absorber, packed with fortifying Omega-6 and -9 to help deeply hydrate hair, bump up shine, and banish brittle strands.

Arginine: A naturally occurring amino acid crucial to hair’s strength. Products that include Arginine help protect hair and rebuild it from the inside out.

Smart-Release Technology: JOICO’s one-of-a-kind liposome delivery system packs a punch continuously releasing Rose Hip Oil, Arginine, and Keratin – to repair, strengthen and protect hair from the cumulative effects of daily styling.

Light Violet Hue: The ultimate balancing act, cools brassy blondes in a single shot.

FIND OUT MORE WWW.RDR.LINK/HL003

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SAVE THE DATE

23 RD–24 TH FEBRUARY 2020 MANCHESTER CENTRAL

SUS TAIN ABLE agenda

Our mission at L’Oréal is to make life more beautiful for all – and sustainability is a big part of this. Sustainability is a lifestyle that we are all embracing, taking steps together to make better choices to protect both planet and people. In 2013 we set up ‘Sharing Beauty With All’, a programme that committed to ambitious goals for the end of 2020, addressing our impact across our entire value chain. Not only are we on track to achieve all targets set, but we are committing to new numbers for 2030 in line with the Science Based Targets initiatives framework.

We are taking many actions at L’Oréal; from innovation in packaging, reducing our footprint, powering dry factories, to our passionate teams who are making a difference in local communities.

Sustainability is a journey and there is more to be done and new discoveries to make that can and will evolve and improve our impact. We as a professional beauty industry have a role to play on the sustainability agenda, not only in salons, but amongst the wider community as a powerful voice that can influence clients and their choices. So what will be on your agenda this year?

Béatrice Dautzenberg, Managing Director UK & Ireland, L’Oréal Professional Products Division

CONTENTS Agents Of Change Adopting a sustainable approach to your salon business Turning Off The Water Works Reducing water consumption as a priority Waste Not Want Not Going above and beyond and reducing waste Lighter Footprints Reducing emissions and energy consumption Sustainable Ambitions The quest for more sustainable alternatives Running Dry Burgos manufacturing plant – the Group’s first ‘dry factory’

Little Acorns Small but vital changes at the Bury distribution centre create a more caring working environment Outside The Box DKUK salon is embracing sustainability in its own unique way The Power Of Influence Helping clients to make more sustainable lifestyle choices Swap Shop Professional Hairdresser’s green checklist of small in-salon changes Natural Shelf Talkers Professional Hairdresser’s round-up of the latest product ranges from the L’Oréal Professional Products Division

AGENTS OFCHANGE We all, as consumers, now need to be more ethically motivated and sustainably aware of how the lifestyle decisions we make impact on our environment, our planet and our lives. Conscious consumerism is on the rise and wielding influence like never before.

SO WHAT DOES SUSTAINABILITY MEAN? Images that immediately spring to mind are our oceans heaving with plastic pollution and polar bears losing their natural habitat due to the melting of the ice caps – the Blue Planet effect. Yet, whilst it means many things to many different people, SUSTAINABILITY is simply the ability to do something at a certain level for a prolonged period of time. When you put this into a business perspective, it’s doing the same things consistently at the same level of quality. This could be associated with profit of course, but it could also be to do with our carbon footprint or our social impact on the society we live in. It could be all of these things but just done consistently well, time and time again.

WHY ARE WE TALKING ABOUT SUSTAINABILITY NOW? The rise in conscious consumerism and living sustainably has never been higher. Starting in the food industry and now gaining massive momentum in the beauty and haircare markets, consumers are increasingly questioning the ingredients, packaging and footprint of products. This is across the consumer board, from concerned parents to younger Millennials and Generation Zs (under 25s), conscious consumerism is being embraced by all and set for huge, long-term growth.

In order for us to cater for this growing desire and need to change, we all need to adopt a more sustainable approach to our industry and salon businesses too.

66%

85%

66%

of consumers are willing to pay more for sustainable brands.

of Gen Z’s will choose a conscious formula over one that is not.

of consumers are willing to pay more for brands aligned with their beliefs and values.

52%

55%

of young people in the UK say they would be more loyal to a brand that was reducing its carbon footprint.

of beauty consumers look for products with natural ingredients.

65%

of adults are trying to live more ethically.

Source: Beauty & Personal Care Retailing, Mintel, Jan 2019 Source: Social Listening Hair Category Audit, 65db, Feb 2019 Source: Naturals Tracker, Nielsen, Nov 2018 Source: Dynvibe, Sustainability Goes Mainstream, February 2019

TURNING ONOFF THE WATER WORKS

L’Oréal prioritises reducing water consumption in every way it can.

Water is one of our planet’s most precious commodities, and while we should all do our bit by not leaving the taps running, having shorter showers and reusing rainwater in the garden, large companies can have a huge environmentally-friendly impact by changing and reducing the way they use water.

L’Oréal puts responsible water use within the making of its products at the top of its priorities. It does this by minimising how much water goes into making L’Oréal products wherever possible. Over the last few years L’Oréal has made a number of investments in its plants, developing water recycling installations that began operating in 2019.

OPTIMISING WATER CONSUMPTION. L’Oréal uses a water scanning tool in all of its plants to keep track of its water use, including cleaning, cooling and toilets, so that it can tell how much water is used in each category – a bit like how new banking apps tell you whether you’re spending your money on groceries, transport or entertainment. With this information it can work to improve consumption levels across all of the L’Oréal plants.

REUSING, RETREATING AND RECYCLING. By installing water treatment stations on its manufacturing sites, L’Oréal is able to reuse water at every possible opportunity.

Waste water is treated using high tech methods to extract high-quality water, which can then be used a for cleaning production tools or cooling processes. More than 12 of L’Oréal’s factories have these installations in place, making them a pioneer for reducing water consumption in the cosmetics industry.

WORKING TOWARD ‘DRY FACTORIES’.

Globally, L’Oréal is developing more and more ‘dry factories’.

These plants get all the water they need for different purposes such as cleaning and producing steam, entirely from water recycled on site. This avoids the need to source water from external mains water networks, and means there is no waste water coming out of the plants.

In 2018, three L’Oréal plants became ‘dry factories’, meaning that 100% of the water used for industrial purposes is recycled and reused in a closed loop.

L’Oréal has reduced its water consumption in plants and distribution centres by 48% since 2005.* (in litre per finished product) 0.723

2005

0.395

2015

0.378

0.375

2016

2017

0.375

2018

*In Karlsruhe (Germany), Libramant (Belgium), Montréal (Canada), Suzhou (China), Burgos (Spain), Aulnay and Rambouillet (France), Pune (India), Settimo (Italy), Istanbal (Turkey), Vorsino (Russia) and Migdal (Israel).

L’Oréal was awarded a Triple ‘A’ score for the third year running in CDP’s 2018 ranking of corporate performance on sustainable water management. ‘A’ is the highest possible level!

WASTENOT WANTNOT Less is more when it comes to waste and L’Oréal is going above and beyond in reducing what it leaves behind.

More than ever we are aware of where what we buy comes from, and where it’s going when we’ve finished with it. We try to recycle as much as possible and promote a landfill-less way of living. L’Oréal is extremely conscious of the way waste is managed and reduced, and is undertaking ambitious efforts to reduce the waste generated by its plants and distribution centres. It aims to reduce the amount of waste created, while also ensuring the reuse of residual waste and has already reduced its waste by 60% compared to 2005.

LESS IS MORE To fulfill its waste reduction commitment, L’Oréal is optimising its use of materials across its manufacturing operations to...

AIMING HIGH L’Oréal has an ambitious waste management policy that goes well beyond regulatory compliance. It has a very strict definition of the concept of ‘waste’, which includes everything from raw material packaging or product packaging, to sludge from wastewater treatment plants and more. In 2018 L’Oréal successfully reduced the quantity of waste generated per finished product by a huge 37% compared to 2005.

REDUCE, REUSE, RECYCLE Sometimes waste cannot be avoided. And while L’Oréal is reducing how much waste it produces, it’s also going one step further by ensuring the best possible recovery of waste. In 2018 it recovered a massive 97% of its industrial waste by reusing or recycling it, or harnessing it to produce energy.

Waste generation in plants and distribution centres since 2005: –37%

● Reduce waste from packaging for transportation. ● Improve manufacturing and packaging processes to avoid

production losses. ● Treat sludge in wastewater to reduce how much of it is

generated.

97% of waste was recovered.

ZERO industrial waste sent to landfill.*

L’Oréal has commited to a 60% reduction in waste from its plants and distribution centres by 2020 and aims to send zero waste to landfill from any of its industrial sites. *Beyond local regulatory requirements.

LIGHTER FOOTPRINTS As C02 emissions are heating up our planet, L’Oréal is keeping its cool on energy consumption.

Carbon Dioxide (CO2) is one of the major greenhouse gases destroying our planet. It is capable of absorbing and emitting infrared radiation, which allows less heat to escape back to space and trapping it in our atmosphere. This is heating up our planet, melting the ice caps and contributing to global warming.

For over 20 years L’Oréal has reduced energy consumption at its factories by improving building design and insulation, optimising industrial processes and using energy-efficient technologies. In 2018, renewable electricity made up 66% of power used at L’Oréal’s plants and distribution centres. It achieved this through large projects using the latest technologies adapted to the location of the site, such as solar panels, and by purchasing green electricity and gas.

SENDING EMISSIONS ON THEIR WAY To promote its sustainable transport strategy, L’Oréal asks its transport teams to implement seven priority initiatives. These include reducing emissions at source by lowering the distances travelled and the number of deliveries, as well as optimising the refilling rate. The financial savings generated through these efforts will be invested in more sustainable transport solutions.

73% of L’Oréal Professional Products Division products are made in carbon neutral plants.

242.6

116.7

81.2

65.7

55.5

2005

2015

2016

2017

2018

CO2 Emissions from plants and distributions centres since 2005:

–77%*

CO2 Emissions linked to transport since 2011: – 8%**

L’Oréal set the objective of reducing CO2 emissions at its plants and distribution centres by 60% by 2020 compared to 2005.

This goal was exceeded and in 2018 emissions were reduced by 77%, even though production volumes increased by 21%. *Indicator calculated according to the market-based methodology defined by the GHG Protocol.

These values take into account the emissions connected to refrigerant leaks. **The calculation relates to the Group’s operational boundary, and excludes new acquisitions (Stylenanda and Lagocas) as well as products sold online from the Group’s website.

SUSTAINABLE AMBITIONS In the quest for more sustainable packaging alternatives and responsible ingredient sourcing, L’Oréal is accelerating from all angles.

Nowadays we all try to carry reusable coffee cups, aluminium water bottles and bags for life. Disposable straws have, in the last couple of years, finally been disposed of in an effort to save marine life and our littered environment.

Since 2007, L’Oréal has put into action a responsible packaging policy based on three pillars known as the ‘three Rs’: Respect, Reduce and Replace. The group uses a systematic eco-design process for the packaging of finished products and also for the packaging used during transport. It has also drawn up action plans to ensure sustainable sourcing of raw materials used both in the packaging and inside the products that could be a cause of deforestation.

RESPECTING THE ENVIRONMENT For its paper, cardboard and wood-fibre based packaging, L’Oréal only uses materials from responsibly managed forests where biodiversity is protected.

INNOVATING Designing packaging that is of the best possible size and weight and uses fewer resources is another major opportunity for L’Oréal to drive improvement.

Source Essentielle, a range from L’Oréal Professionnel, has square-shaped shampoo bottles which enable minimal use of plastic materials. The bottles fit perfectly one on top of the other so can be transported and displayed in salons this way – no point-of-sale advertising needed! The shampoo counters installed in stockist salons mean clients can refill their bottle when they visit their hairdresser, saving the equivalent of 40% of the weight of a bottle.

SUSTAINABLE ALTERNATIVES L’Oréal replaces conventional materials with alternatives from recycled or renewable sources at every possible opportunity. In 2018 alone, the group replaced virgin materials with an enormous 8,705 tonnes of recycled materials.

RESPONSIBLE USE OF PALM OIL Palm Oil is the most widely consumed vegetable oil on the planet and is found in many packaged products from shampoos and lipsticks to washing detergent, margarine and bread. While Palm Oil is the most efficient source of vegetable oil, its rapid expansion threatens some of the most important and sensitive habitats. Rainforests, for example, are being subjected to uncontrolled clearing for conventional Palm Oil plantations to be put in their place.

L’Oréal purchases around 370 tonnes of Palm Oil a year.

However, it uses 71,000 tonnes of Palm Oil derivatives to create a number of products. One hundred percent of the Palm Oil sourced by L’Oréal has been compliant with Roundtable on Sustainable Palm Oil (RSPO) standards since 2010. It also uses a deforestation risk evaluation tool to trace where its Palm Oil is coming from and to ensure it isn’t associated with the destruction of rainforest habitats.

L’Oréal was one of the first companies to become a signatory of the New Plastics Economy, initiative led by the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, committing to 100% reusable, recyclable or compostable packaging by 2025.

79%

79% of new or renovated products have an improved environmental or social profile.*

58%

58% of new or renovated products have an improved environmental profile due to packaging with a lower environmental footprint.

8705 tonnes

98%

8705 tonnes of recycled materials were used in 2018.

98% of soya oil is certified organic.

99%

99% of cardboard for product packaging is certified.

100%

100% of paper used for the instructions included with products is certified.

100%

100% of supplies of Palm Oil and Palm Oil derivatives have been certified sustainable in line with RSPO criteria since 2012.

As part of its commitment to ‘zero deforestation’, L’Oréal implements action plans to ensure a sustainable supply of Palm oil and wood-fibre based products such as paper and cardboard. This means none of L’Oréal’s products are associated with deforestation. *These are either new products for which new formulas have been developed and are being produced for the first

time in the Group’s manufacturing plants, or products for which packaging was created or updated in 2018.

RUNNING DRY

‘Not a drop to spare’ is most definitely the mantra for L’Oréal’s Burgos manufacturing plant in sunny northern Spain which has gone from strength to strength in environmentally friendly development to become the Group’s first ‘dry factory’ since 2017.

The Burgos plant gets all the water it needs for different purposes such as cleaning, heating and cooling, entirely from water recycled in a ‘closed loop’ on site.

This waste water recycling system was installed in 2015 and in 2016 the plant had reduced its total water consumption by 15% compared to the previous year and by nearly 50% compared with 2005.

The Burgos factory, which employs 500 people, is also completely carbon neutral.

By 2017 Burgos became completely ‘dry’ and today 100% of the water used is recycled.

In 2015 a biomass boiler was installed to meet the plant’s energy needs. It generates three types of energy: thermal energy, cooling capacity and electricity, which covers all of the site’s needs for producing and packaging products.

Did you know that 73% of L’Oréal’s products are made in carbon neutral factories?

Burgos is also home to L’Oréal’s first Bio Zone, with more than 500 trees and an organic garden. This biodiversity programme was implemented in 2018. The plant has also achieved the ‘zero waste to landfill’ milestone.

LITTLEACORNS...

Sustainability goes far beyond products, it involves caring for our community and the spaces in which we work. Small changes can make a big difference to foster this sense of inclusion and well-being.

The team at L’Oréal’s Distribution Centre in Bury, Manchester have been taking steps and making small but vital changes that are so valuable in creating a more sustainable, pleasant and caring environment to work in, as well as driving a more sustainable lifestyle approach in the wider surrounding community.

Insect hotels, bird boxes & ladybird house

BIRD BATH & BIRD FEEDING STATIONS FOR WINTER

Allowing hedgerows to grow to provide a wildlife friendly habitat Two bee hives producing honey for all staff members as a Christmas gift

“Everyone at the Distribution Centre is really passionate about caring for our local and global environment and are proud participants of the L’Oréal Sharing Beauty With All Programme. We have great engagement from colleagues who love to get involved – whether it is cleaning up our local river, planting trees on site or suggesting ideas to help us further improve our sustainability on a larger scale.”

James Coe: L’Oréal Professional Products Division, Physical Distribution Manager

No use of pesticides by landscaping company.

B

S TLE OT BLES TA

RS CYCLE SHELTE

Renewable gas & electricity schemes in operation

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g n i t h g i l d e r e pow R O F D E L L INSTA

100% RECYCLED MI LK O T M D A E K US EP IC N I

Resource Conservation

2000 Litre rain water harvesting in place to capture rain run-off from external building to water plants Solar powered watering system in use to water plants

Switch to lightweight pallet wrap

“I am very proud to work in a company and a division where sustainability is such an integral part of the agenda. We are working to make a positive impact in our society and this gives me an immense sense of pride and purpose. Our Distribution Centre Bury for example, is very active in the community part of our Sharing Beauty With All programme. Each year, as a team, they dedicate an incredible amount of time and energy to raise money and help their local community; in 2019 they raised over £30,000 for charity.”

Marjane Carvalho, L’Oréal Professional Products Division, Supply Chain Director UK & Ireland.

Engagement

Annual riverbank clean up event

ANNUAL GROWING COMPETITIONS Garden project team with volenteers

Re-useable keep cups

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Re-Use of cardboard as void fill for customers

COFFEE GRINDS F O TO USE AS R C CO

Re-use

OUTSIDE THEBOX We all know that the growth in the sustainable, organic and natural beauty market is at an all-time high with consumers increasingly questioning what is in their hair and beauty products. It is therefore important to understand and adapt to a more sustainable salon lifestyle in whatever way is right for your business model. This may well be driven by your clients but equally you are in a unique position to influence and start conversations with them – to lead by green example. Professional Hairdresser spoke to DKUK salon owner Daniel Kelly who is most definitely embracing sustainability in his own unique fashion.

DANIEL, CAN YOU SHARE YOUR SALON ETHOS WITH US? I opened DKUK in 2014 and it was the first hair salon to get rid of mirrors and offer haircuts and colour in front of artwork instead.

It’s my belief that this unique environment creates an experience like no other.

DKUK is for everyone; you can come in for a haircut, or just to see an exhibition. It is open to all and we have gender neutral pricing based on time and stylists’ experience.

CAN YOU SHARE WITH US YOUR APPROACH TO SUSTAINABILITY AND YOUR SALON? We try and have a broader understanding of sustainability and the ecosystem of the salon. It is important to think about waste products, recycling and where products come from.

We hold weekly meetings for all staff about how to make positive contributions to the salon environment so everyone is involved.

This also means looking at the community and the art exhibitions are part of this. Sitting the DKUK client in front of a piece of art it becomes part of the ecology.

We have a garden and want to make it into a more usable space. Our plan is to invite artists to use it as a green space and grow fruit and veg.

CAN YOU GIVE SOME EXAMPLES OF YOUR SALON’S SUSTAINABLE PRACTICES? Well one obvious one is that we keep cups for clients to save on waste and plastic.

We recently got the start-up Charge Bolt Point for phone charging on the go. ChargeBolt has officially launched its ‘Charge2Plant’ sustainability initiative that sees the company contribute to the planting of trees in the Eastern region of

Ghana. This new initiative sees ChargeBolt donate a portion of each individual power bank rental to the planting of trees in Ghana. Ghana has one of the highest deforestation rates in Africa. https://www.chargebolt.co.uk.

DO YOU THINK IT IS IMPORTANT FOR ALL SALONS TO BECOME MORE SUSTAINABLE? Definitely! It is important for us all to have a more ecological understanding. Hairdressing is a wasteful industry and every salon needs to be more aware of what they can do to reduce the impact.

Creating a community is also a part of sustainability and with the art we bring people together who don’t just come for a haircut but come to see the exhibitions, so creating the environment you want to inhabit is important.

DO YOU HAVE ANY TIPS AND ADVICE YOU WANT TO SHARE WITH OTHER SALONS? It is important to always learn from others and be open to new ideas.

Retrace your steps and see what process can be improved on through small changes and hold weekly meetings to reflect on your changes.

Take a close look at the waste you are producing and find out how that can be reduced.

HOW DO YOU GET YOUR CLIENTS TO EMBRACE SUSTAINABILITY? OR HOW DO YOU TELL THEM MORE ABOUT WHAT YOU DO AS A SALON? Well, our ethos is to make the discussion of art more common place. For example our next show is a film commission drawing a parallel between ethological breakdown and mental breakdown. Clients will have their hair cut in front of the exhibition, which speaks directly about climate and the environment. The exhibition will force conversations in the salon on climate change.

We also stock L’Oréal Professionnel and Pureology – with this we offer refillable containers and encourage clients to come back with them by offering a discount.

THEPOWER OFINFLUENCE We at Professional Hairdresser believe that you and your salon are in the green driving seat when it comes to influencing your clients to make more sustainable lifestyle choices.

Consumers are increasingly seeking out brands, products and salons, that deliver on authenticity, purpose, integrity, transparency and sustainability. How are you, the hairdresser, reacting to this swell in conscious consumerism and have you actually considered the impact you could have through your salon on this ethical movement?

In some cases discussions and actions may well be client driven, but have you thought about the conversations you can initiate with clients? You are interacting with clients every day and are

therefore a powerful channel to reach people to encourage more sustainable behaviours – you can influence the sustainable choices that your clients are making, as well as, of course, the ones that you are making in the salon.

It’s a journey for everyone to save our precious planet and it’s a journey that for some of us will start with small steps, both in salon and in our personal choices too. You, as hairdressers, need to be armed with the knowledge to start embracing small sustainable salon steps to take to your clients.

©Adobestock/LaCozza

SWAPSHOP You can chat to your clients about what you are doing in the salon and practical ways to adopt a more sustainable lifestyle and use the changes you are making to influence them to do the same.

Here is the Professional Hairdresser green checklist of small changes you can make in the salon for you and your clients.

Bottled water for clients

SWAP TO

Filtered water with a fruity infusion.

Single use paper cups

SWAP TO

Reusable keep cups. (you could even brand them with your salon logo)

Freely running water at the backwash

SWAP TO

Water-saving eco shower heads.

Cotton towels

SWAP TO

Recyclable/compostable eco towels.

Light bulbs/ Energy Supplier

SWAP TO

Functional LED alternatives for energy efficiency. Green Energy Supplier such as Ecotricity.

Cut flowers

SWAP TO

Potted plants that are great for oxygenating the salon air.

Single use cleaning products

SWAP TO

Refillable cleaning products and consider brands like the green cleaning group Ecover.

Plastic retail bags

SWAP TO

Paper or canvas bags or encourage clients to bring their own.

NATURAL SHELF TALKERS In an age where our shopping habits are changing and we are making sustainable choices in all sectors, consumers are naturally looking for more ethical choices to reduce the environmental impact of their hair and beauty routine. Check out our round-up of the latest products from L’OrÊal Professional Products Division to point your clients down the right green path.

BIOLAGE R.A.W. is all about being real, authentic and wholesome.

Its powerful performance products are up to 99% from natural origins and up to 99% biodegradable. The ingredients are obtained in an eco-friendly way from sourcing all the way to formulation. Each and every bottle is made up of post-consumer recycled plastic and can be recycled again and again.

PUREOLOGY products provide complete colour care with a pure ‘no nasties’ approach. The brand boasts zero sulfate shampoo formulated with up to 99% vegan ingredients with sustainably sourced natural plant extracts. The signature aromatherapy fragrances give every client an indulgent experience while protecting hair colour.

REDKEN Nature + Science is a no-compromise alternative to its cult haircare ranges: All Soft, Extreme, and Color Extend Magnetics. The formulas are 100% vegan, sulfate free, silicone free and paraben free.

The shampoos are made with 83% naturally derived ingredients, while the conditioners are made with 99% naturally derived ingredients.

KÉRASTASE Aura Botanica is a unique range made of up to 99% natural origin ingredients that deliver high performance with visible results on hair and a highly sensorial user experience.

SOURCE ESSENTIELLE is a vegan haircare collection, formulated with up to 99% naturally derived ingredients. It has been designed with a sustainable approach to innovation as the packaging is square-shaped to hold the maximum amount of product and the minimum amount of recycled plastic. Clients can also take their empty bottle back to the salon to refill and avoid the use of another bottle.

Small steps together can make a big impact.

NAUTILUSÂŽ SuperWhite is the premium ecological paper with an excellent whiteness. This 100% post-consumer recycled paper has a high environmental profile with FSCÂŽ recycled, EU Ecolabel certification and a CO2 neutral option.