Polyester nylon Acrylic Spandex Acetate Lyocell viscose modal
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Ha n n a h Pa t i e n c e
Contents _____Po l y e s t e r 4 _____N y l o n 10 _____A c r y l i c 1 6 _____S p a n d e x 2 2 _____A c e t a t e 2 8 _____L y o c e l l 3 4 _____Vi s c o s e r a y o n 40 _____M o d a l 4 6
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olyester
The claim to fame for polyester is its easy-to-care-for repetoire even after putting it through the ringer. It is also very inexpensive, which makes it even more appealing for many people. While being a very new fiber, its use is extensive in the fashion, home dĂŠcor, and industrial industries.
But how and when did polyester come to be? ____The first polyester fiber, Terylene, was created in 1941. Before then scientists were experimenting with alcohols and carboxyl acids that ultimately make up polyester, but was put on the back burner after the discovery of nylon. Following Terylene a polyester fiber called Dacron was also invented. ____In 1951 polyester was finally introduced to the American public. The great thing about it, they advertised, is that it could be worn for 68 days straight without ironing and still look presentable. It was a miracle fabric! ____In 1958 kodel, another polyester fiber, was developed; the polyester market kept growing. Due to the durability of the of fiber and the inexpensive price textiles mills emerged all over the country. They began to produce cheap polyester clothing. Sales finally started to fall in the 1970s. ____Today, the fiber is seen as cheap and uncomfortable. However, with the production of luxury polyesters like polyester microfiber, that image is changing over time. Polyester also has a very large growth over the past few decades. While demand was just 5.2 million tons in 1980, it reached 19.2 million by 2000, and 46.1 million tons in 2014. ____China produces 69% of all polyester fibers in the world. Add India and Southeast Asia and they make up 86% of polyester production.
But what exactly is polyester if it’s not natural? ____Polyester is made using chemicals. Petroleum by-product, alcohol, and carboxyl acid are mixed in order to form a monomer otherwise known as ester. This reaction is called polymerization. The polymer material is then stretched into long fibers about five times their original length. Threads and fibers are then made by a spinning process. One type of spinning process is a filament type, in which the long fibers are twisted together. The second is the spun types, in which shorts fibers are combed to form something called staple. After these processes, the fiber can be blended with other materials like cotton or wool. ____The fabric itself is very durable, easy to care for, is wrinkle resistant and can be made from recycled items like bottles or old clothing. It is also very easy to dye. ____A few downsides, aside from the luxury polyester fiber, are that it tends to pill if it is not a high grade and does not feel as great as natural fibers. This makes the lifespan of the fiber short, which means one should limit how often the fabric is washed. For that reason it is best to wash on cold and hang to dry. ____In addition to the industrial, interior, and clothing industries, it is also used a lot of outdoor materials like tents, windbreakers, umbrellas, etc. This is because synthetic fibers exhibit superior water, wind and environmental resistance.
100% Polyester Striped tight weave Slight stretch
Polyester/Nylon/Lurex Satin Metallic Leopard Brocade
Polyester/Cotton Blend Satin Faced Faille
Polyester Batting 100% Polyester For quilting
Polyester/Nylon Blend Striped shell pattern
Polyester Acrylic Blend Slight sheen
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So all those chemicals make polyester harmful to the environment, right? ____The petroleum products that polyester is madewith are not bio-degradable and will continue to exist in our ecosystem. More than 70 million barrels of oil are used to make polyester each year. It comes as no surprise that synthetic garments are the biggest contributor to microplastic pollution in ocean. Other harmful chemicals like carcinogens are emitted into water and air untreated as well, which causes a lot of environmental damage. ____It does not help that the fiber is often produced in countries like China where the environmental regulations are more relxed. ____While polyester requires over double the energy cotton needs to be produced, it requires much less water than natural fibers.
The social impacts are very large too ____The workers in the factories are at a very high risk because they are working with chemicals. The fumes from the environment are not healthy and have resulted in death in some cases because of poor medical care. Not to mentioned that there is not much check up on the conditions of the factories because they are mostly foreign. While the industry employs a lot of people, at what point is it not worth it? ____Polyester is also a popular replacement for animal products like wool, silk, or even leather. Since it can be blended with so many other fabrics and is very flexible itself, the material it creates can get close to the real thing. With the latest vegan trends, polyester fabrics for faux items are flourishing.
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Edun Spring 2018
Giamba Fall 2017
Joseph Spring 2017
Polyester in Fashion ____As mentioned previously, polyester is often used for faux clothing or accessories, outdoor apparel like ski jackets, ski pants, or windbreakers, and athleisure. High grade polyester is hard to come across, but that is the best way for designers to know their polyester fabrics will not pill or wear easily. The fiber is also very versatile and can drape quite nicely.
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ylon
Nylon was the first synthetic fiber to be created. It is used far beyond clothing, too. Many daily items are made of the fiber like toothbrushes, bottle caps, and toys.
But how and when did nylon come to be? ____Nylon was first created in 1935 by scientists of the DuPont Chemicals company. However, it did not hit the market until 1940. When it did, it did so in the form of stockings, which became a big seller. This was due in part to the high cost of silk stockings (even though they were made cheaply) and the nylons were a lot less expensive. ____During WWII nylon was used for everything from parachutes to mosquito nets. But at this point there was not enough fiber left over for women’s stockings! Infamously, women started drawing lines down their legs to capture the look. “Nylon riots” even broke out once WWII had ended in department stores to get their hands on a pair. ____While no one is starting riots for nylon today, it is used for anything and everything. From toothbrushes, umbrellas, and winter gloves, to children’s toys and medical implants, it is unavoidable day to day.
So how does nylon compare to polyester? ____Nylon can also made from petroleum like polyester, but it can also be made from coal and renewable materials like castor oil (so, vegetables). The polymer is made by heating two large molecules, which create an even larger molecule and give off water. Often this get made into a sheet of ribbon nylon, which can then be made into chips. From there the chips can be melted and spun into thread or melted to create hard products like toothbrushes, etc. ____Like polyester, nylon fabric is very stretchy and can have a wide variety of finishes and luster. It also pills very easily and creates static cling. Since the lifespan of the fiber is so short, one should limit how often the fabric is washed. For that reason it is best to wash on cold and hang to dry.
Nylon 58” 100% Nylon Untreated, great for dyeing and printing Perfect for banners or flags
Polyester/Nylon Blend Map metallic Interlock knit
Polyester/Nylon Blend Sheer pinstripe mesh
Nylon ‘Puppet Skin’ Fleece 100% Nylon
Polyester/Nylon Blend Threaded grid on sheer mesh
Rayon/Nylon Velvet 80% Rayon/20%Nylon
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And nylon must be as harmful to the environment as polyester, right? ____Unfortunately, it is. ____Nitrous oxides, greenhouse gases, get released into the air during production, which contributes to the depletion of the stratospheric ozone. Furthermore, the amount of energy needed is twice as much as polyester and five times as much as cotton fibers. And that’s just to create the fiber, forgetting about the fabric making process. ____Nylon also contributes to the plastic pollution in waterways; when nylon clothing goes through the wash it can release 19,000 plastic microfibers into the water. ____Most disappointingly, the clothing only spends a short while in closets, yet takes 30-40 years to decompose.
The social impacts are very large too ____Nylon changed the consumer market in the beginning after the release of nylon stockings. Between releasing the right product at the right time and the ease of caring for nylon fiber, nylon increased consumer convenience and continues to do so. ____Furthermore, the wide variety of product nylon creation has helped living be more efficient and easy. ____Yet, nylon has the worst effect on the environment around all the people consuming these products. This begs the question, at what point is convenience worth the destruction of one’s health and the health of future generations?
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Miu Miu Fall 2017
MSGM Fall 2018
Kenzo Fall 2018
Nylon in Fashion ____Nylon tends to be used in fast fashion and not as much in high quality or luxury items. It is typically used to make swimsuits, sport jackets, windbreakers, and ski clothing.
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crylic
Acrylic is great for the newest trends because it is easily morphable into many different textures and looks. However, it is highly flammable and has a big impact to the environment.
How and when did acrylic come to be? ____Acrylic made its first debut in 1933 when Rohm and Haas Co. received a trademark on Plexiglas in the UK and DuPont Co. began Lucite manufacturing in the USA. The material was used during WWII to fabricate windshields, gun turrets and airplane noses. In the 50s acrylic entered the fashion industry, namely in the form of plastic handbags. ____Now China is major supplier of acrylic fibers. ____Recently acrylic made a resurgence due to trends like see-through purses, shoes, or other such items. Shiny items are also in trend, which is another area where acrylic has come into play.
So how does acrylic compare to other manmade fibers? ____Acrylic fibers are created from acrylonitrile, a chemical made petroleum. It is usually mixed with other chemicals so that it can absorb dyes more easily. The fibers are then dry spun or wet spun and can then be modified to have special properties. Like other manmade fibers it has great wickability, is quick drying, very flexible, dyes well, and is easy to wash. It may also be blended with wool to decrease the cost of the fabric. ____It is typically used in apparel, home furnishings like blankets, rugs, luggage, sail cover cloth, craft yarns, and concrete/stucco reinforcement. ____When caring for acrylic apparel it is best to wash delicate items by hand in warm water. Using a fabric softener will reduce the static electricity as well. Let try on a hanger unless it is a sweater, in which case it should dry flat. For machine washing, use warm water and add a fabric softener during the final rinse cycle. Dry at a low temperature setting and remove garments from dryer as soon as tumble cycle is complete. Use a moderately warm iron if ironing is necessary.
Polyester/Acrylic Blend Double chiffon Chain, carriage, saddle print
Polyester/Acrylic Large scale sweater rib knit
Cotton/Acrylic Metallic ponte striped
Acrylic Mesh with sequins
Polyester/Acrylic Duchesse satin
Acrylic/Metallic Blend Loose web knit with sheer sequins
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And is the effect of acrylic as bad as all the other manmade fabrics? ____Unfortunately, it is. ____Microplastic contamination is a huge problem. And like other manmade substances, acrylic is also not easily recycled or biodegradable and is very flammable. ____Many greenhouse gasses get released during production and a huge amount of energy is necessary too.
The social impacts are very great as well ____The strong chemicals used to create acrylic are also very dangerous to the health of factory workers. They may even cause cancer. ____Acrylic is also a carcinogen and a mutagen, which target the central nervous systems. The chemicals enter our bodies through skin absorption; the manufacturing of this fiber is comprised of very toxic substances. ____The way it damages the earth impacts the world people live in day to day as well.
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Valentino Spring 2018
Chanel Spring 2018
Chanel Spring 2018
Acrylic in fashion ____Acrylic tends to be used for footwear, accessories, and clothing in fashion. Items could be sock, gloves, scarves, sweaters, home furnishing, awnings, or even for fake fur or knitted clothes.
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pandex
Spandex is known for its elasticity and use in compression garments. It is also used for interior design in order to create a more modern look. Surprisingly it is even stronger than natural rubber.
When did spandex come about? ____Spandex was created during WWII when chemists were trying to create a rubber replacement. Initially they created polyurethane elastomers, which produced millable gums, an alternative to rubber. It was at this time that nylon polymers were invented. Since the polymers made were so stiff, scientists went through efforts to try and make them more elastic. They decided that the more elastic result could be made into fine threads and made into lightweight garments. ____Ultimately, the first spandex fibers were created by Farbenfabriken Bayer. A patent was achieved in 1952. Du Point Co. and the U.S. Rubber Company developed the fibers. Du Pont used the name Lycra for the fiber and started manufacturing in 1962. ____Du Pont is still the world leader in the production of spandex fibers.
What exactly is spandex and how is it different? ____While many manmade fabrics can be stretchy, spandex is ultra-stretchy. This is due to the way the scientists formulated the polymers to be more flexible. And it still retains its shape! The fiber is soft, lightweight, smooth, and resistant to perspiration and detergents, which is why items like workout clothes are made with it. ____It is best to hand or machine wash in lukewarm water and hang to dry. If an iron must be used, it should be used quickly and at a low temperature.
Stretch Charmeuse 95% Silk/5% Spandex Softness and sheen of silk Comfort and stretch of spandex
Polyester/Nylon/Lurex Satin Metallic Leopard Brocade
Soy Organic Cotton Jersey 58% Soy/37% Organic Cotton/5% Spandex Very soft, wonderful drape
Spandex/Polyester Net Fabric
Cotton Lycra 90% Cotton/10% Lycra Prepared for dyeing
Black Cotton Lycra 90% Cotton/10% Lycra
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And spandex must be bad for the environment too, right? ____Like polyester and nylon, the making of spandex uses raw material, toxic chemicals, and a ton of energy. Spandex also does not last very long, which means one needs to replenish often. This uses up even more materials and resources.
The social impacts of spandex are very similar to polyester and nylon as well ____Also like polyester and nylon, workers are at high risk because of the harsh chemicals. Factory conditions are questionable too because the product is not made domestically. The fumes emitted into the environment are very harmful to the environment around people as well.
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Balenciaga Spring 2017
Libertine Spring 2018
Fenty x Puma Spring 2018
Spandex in fashion ____In fashion spandex is typically used for workout clothes, swimsuits, ski clothing, bra straps, compression products, and shaped garments like bra cups.
____It is particularly well known for being popular in the 80’s when there was a workout craze.
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ccetate
Acetate is a man-made fiber using tree pulp. This mix between organic and non-organic crease a fiber that can sparkle to no end and is great for jewelry and embellishments. It is also used for home furnishings, the medical field, and for industrial purposes.
What is the history of acetate? ____Acetate was commercially produced starting in 1905 by brothers Camille and Henry Dreyfus. It is the second cellulosic fiber, after rayon, and is a man-made fiber using tree pulp. It was used for film, celluloid plastic and artificial silk (also like rayon). ____During WWI the fiber was commercially produced and called celanese. It was first commercially spun in the U.S. in 1924.
____ Today acetate is blended with other fibers like wool and cotton to create a cheaper veresion of that fabric.
But what exactly is acetate? ____While both rayon and acetate are made from wood pulp, acetate uses acetic acid or acetic anhydride. That liquid can then by dyed and spun. This fiber is the closest to silk as man-made fibers can be in terms of drape and sheen. It can be very shiny. ____ Over the past decade acetate has been used for apparel, home décor, in the medical field, for industrial uses, ribbons, and, more recently, suit linings. ____When caring for acetate apparel it is best to hand wash it in cold water with a mild detergent. Hanging the wet items to dry is the best option for drying them.
Shiny Acetate Coated Acetate No stretch
Polyester/Acetate Blend Plain weave
Polyester/Acetate Blend Double woven tweed
Rayon/Acetate Blend 58/60” Aztec print
Acetate/Nylon Blend Solid power mesh 61/62”
Viscose/Acetate Blend Twill plaid
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How much does acetate impact the environment? ____Unlike other manmade fibers acetate biodegrades in natural conditions. Yet similarly to other fabrics, it takes a lot of water, chemicals, and energy to produce.
The social impacts have some highs and lows as well ____Acetate is used to create something unexpected: cigarette filters. As such, it contributes to the cigarette usage in the world, which is a big social problem. But one can also buy a deck of cards made from acetate; a much different social aspect to acetate.
____Since it effects the environment, it effects people directly as well; citizens can develop health issues.
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Delpozo Pre Fall 2017
Nomia Resort 2018
Marni Spring 2016
Acetate in fashion ____Acetate is used a lot for jewelry, eyewear, as a forevercrinkly fabric, and embellishments because of its shiny nature.
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yocell
Lyocell is a man-made fiber made from cellulose, which gives it an interesting background. It is great for activewear and actually has less of an impact than cotton. Over the past decade demand has slowly increased and boasts potential for growth.
When was lyocell created? ___Lyocell was safe to offer the United States public in 1992. Before being released it had problems such as being highly flammable. The fiber was introduced as Tencel at first, but was then given the generic name of lyocell in 1996. The company Lenzing AG (in Austria) purchased all the tencel, or lyocell plants, in 2004. They are the only major producer of this fiber.
What is lyocell? ___Like acetate lyocell is also a cellulose fiber. It is made from wood pulp that gets dissolved in an amine oxide solvent, which is then filtered and coagulated into a fiber form. ___The fiber is very absorbent (50% more than cotton), wrinkle resistant, drapes well, has great strength when wet, is soft, and can mimic the feel of silk, suede or leather. The strong fiber is often used for industrial purposes to make things like ropes, bandages, automotive filters, and protective suiting. The other industry it is prominent in is the beauty industry; typical items include face wipes or face masks. ___Lyocell can be dry cleaned or washed. It is also very resistant to shrinkage, making it easy to be laundered at home (but only when it has the proper finish).
Black Silk Velvet 18% Silk/82% Lyocell Use for the Devore technique
Bamboo Lyocell 100% Bamboo Lyocell Soft and luxurious 76 x 76 threads per inch
Lyocell Voile Loose, somehwat sheer weave Drapes well
Lyocell Satin Very solid, tighly woven
Lyocell twill Great drape Strong twill weave Optically whitened
Black Lyocell Challis Dyed black
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How harmful is lyocell to the environment? ____Like cotton, lyocell is made from plant materials. However, lyocell requires less water and energy than cotton. ____The trees used do not require pesticides. Although potentially harmful dyes and chemicals can get into the environment. ____Something the manufacturer, Lenzing AG, wants to get better at is increasing their use of renewable energy sources.
What are the social impacts of lyocell? ____Since possibly harmful dyes and chemicals are used to produce lyocell it has the potential of hurting workers. ____On the positive side, the fibers makes it easier to create workout clothing that does not pill as easily and is a great sweat-wicker. By producing good workout wear, it is easier for people to have a successful workout.
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Tencel by Chen Wen Spring 2018
Tencel by Chen Wen Spring 2018
Tencel by Chen Wen Spring 2018
Lyocell in fashion ____Lyocell is typically used for dresses, slacks, coats and jean as far as apparel. However, the ideal use for lyocell is activewear because it is so breathable and less susceptible to odorous bacteria.
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iscose rayon
viscose rayon is the oldest man-made fiber. It has uses across multiple different fields including the health industry, the fashion industry, and the industrial industry. Like lyocell and acetate it is made from a naturallyoccuring raw material.
When was it invented and why? ____For years scientists tried to create an artificial silk. Finally in 1855 a French man named George Audemars dipped a solution of mulberry bark pulp into gummy rubber and made a thread. ____Commercially it was produced and patented in the 1880s. Once people realized it was very flammable it was taken off the market. It was reintroduced in 1905 in Europe and shown to the United States in 1910.
What exactly is viscose rayon? ____Viscose rayon is a fiber made from bark pulp. It is a very long process which includes steps like steeping, pressing, aging, dissolving, filtering, and, ultimately, spinning, washing, and cutting. Viscose rayon is highly absorbent, soft and comfortable, easy to dye, and drapes well. This makes it great for items in fashion, home furnishings, industrial products, and person hygiene. When caring for viscose rayon apparel items it is best to dry clean. Sometimes one can handwash or machine wash the items. When necessary, lukewarm water is best and hang to dry.
Viscose Rayon Challis Great for dyeing
Devore Satin 30% Silk/70% Viscose Rayon Shiny, beautiful fabric
Viscose Rayon/Silk Blend 75% Viscose Rayon/ 25% Silk Semi-sheer when white, opaque when dyed
100% Bamboo Viscose Rayon Fleece Smooth side and soft fleece side
Viscose Rayon Crinkle Beautiful, light crinkled rayon
Viscose Rayon Light 100% Viscose Rayon Optically whitened
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Is viscose rayon bad for the environment? ____Like lyocell, viscose rayon is made from plant materials and requires less water and energy than cotton. ____However, potentially harmful dyes and chemicals can get into the environment.
The social impacts of viscose rayon ____Since possibly harmful dyes and chemicals are used to produce lyocell it has the potential of hurting workers. ____The fiber also contributes to the rapid depletion of world’s forests, which causes a threat to animals and the human rights of indigenous communities.
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Atlein Spring 2017
Maiyet Spring 2017
Atlein Fall 2017
Viscose rayon in fashion ____Because viscose rayon is highly absorbent, soft and comfortable, easy to dye, and drapes well it is great to manufacture in the fashion industry. It is typically used for accessories, blouses, dresses, jackets, lingerie, slacks, sportswear, and work clothes.
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odal
Modal is typically seen as a cheap, inexpensive fabric. For that reason it is not used on the runway often and can mostly be found at less expensive fashion companies.
What is the history of modal? ____In the 1960s, the same company that created lyocell, Lenzing AG, also invented modal. They still produce it too! ____Over the years it has become quite popular in the fashion industry. While it is not usually used on the runway, companies love that it is a “sustainable� fiber.
How is modal different? ____Modal is a semi-synthetic fiber made from spinning cellulose, like lyocell and viscose rayon, from beech trees. When processed it is a fiber stronger than rayon even when wet and has a similar feel to cotton. For that reason modal material is usually used in clothing. ____When caring for modal items it is best to hand wash in cold water and hang to dry. The color will keep much better and so will the texture and integrity of the fabric.
Black Modal Rayon Jersey 95% Rayon/5% Lycra
Modal Rayon Jersey 95% Rayon/5% Lycra
Rayon Satin, Heavyweight Solid, tightlywoven fabric Optically whitened
Modal/Rayon/Hemp Blend Soft and smooth Washes well
Modal Lawn 100% Modal Very smooth Fine weave
Modal/Spandex Blend Sateen Solid Modal Jersey Knit
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What is the environmental impact of modal? ____Modal uses 20% less water than cotton to produce. However, since it is produced using the beech tree, it is potentially harmful to the native environment. ____Like over manmade fibers it is also polluting the environment and uses a lot of energy to create.
What are the social impacts? ____Since possibly harmful dyes and chemicals are used to produce lyocell it has the potential of hurting workers. ____The fiber also contributes to the rapid depletion of world’s forests, which causes a threat to animals and the human rights of indigenous communities.
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Sportmax Spring 2018
Mara Hoffman Spring 2017
Stella McCartney Spring 2017
Modal in Fashion ___Many fashion brands have adopted it as an eco-friendly alternative to cotton. It is seen as soft and luxurious by top companies. Modal is common in pajamas, shirts, underwear, It is more commonly seen off the runway, however brands like Mara Hoffman love the sustainable nature of the fabric.
Bibiliography
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