Modern Sewing Starts Here Issue 2

Edition 2 - January 2019

Modern sewing

starts here...

The ultimate

Winter warmer

Why you should consider making a coat as an investment

Focus

on fabrics Feast your eyes on the latest fabrics

IMPROV

QUILTING How to have more control over your patchwork designs

PAT BRAVO Celebrates 40 collections for Art Gallery Fabrics

Image features Pat Bravo’s new Legendary fabric collection

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Editor’s Letter Hello We hope you enjoyed the first edition of Modern Sewing Starts Here. With lots of exciting products being released, our mini magazine is the perfect way to keep you in the loop. This time, we talk about the latest craze ‘improv quilting’ where stitchers have more control over their designs, and explain why making a coat is a real investment for dressmakers, plus news about the latest sewing patterns and trends for the forthcoming months.

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Hantex www.hantex.co.uk www.modernsewingstartshere.co.uk Subscribe free to get your copy – click here

Products you’re going to love….

Mix and match The Matchmade fabric collection has been meticulously curated to coordinate with all of Pat Bravo’s existing collections. The new line of blenders is a match made in maker’s heaven, and perfect for patchworking. Use the fabrics by themselves to make colourful mini quilts, table runners or combine to make beautiful geometric designs.

To view all the fabric swatches in the range Click here Quirky quilts Patchwork and quilters will love the three new designs from Elizabeth Hartman – Beehive, Norm & Nanette and Cuckoo. These quilt patterns use conventional patchwork techniques but need no templates or paper piecing.

To find out more about these designs – click here

Something to look forward to…..

Surface and space designer, Alison Glass will be launching her new range of stationery and enamel pins featuring her lovely designs.

The joy of 40 collections Legendary is a bohemian fabric collection from Pat Bravo.

Passionate persistence and an infinite love for design has led Pat to design 40 collections over the past 14 years.

Legendary tells the story of her bestselling designs, and brings them together harmoniously through what is Pat’s signature – an exquisite use of colour.

To view the colourful range – click here Designed to complement Chef’s Garden brings all the best from the garden with a culinary theme while Emma’s Kitchen fuses classic kitchen themes with a contemporary look and feel. Both ranges from Haerae are printed on GOT’s certified organic base cloth, which is better for the environment and are great for making gifts and accessories.

Click on the collection name to find out more – Chef’s Garden and Emma’s Kitchen

#modernsewingstartshere

Pick of the

PATTERNS

New sewing pattern releases to fill your wardrobe this season Winter wovens The Salida is a skirt with two options, and perfect for working with medium-weight woven fabrics such as corduroy, denim, twill, linen and chambray. This skirt from True Bias features a panelled skirt, soft V-shaped yoke, high waist, and front zipper fly.

To view this pattern and others from True Bias – click here

Made for curves This iconic T-shirt dress in midi or tunic length is designed for curves and has an optional waist tie and modern split hem detail. The Pembroke Dress/Tunic has three neckline options – scoop, jewel, or turtleneck – and cuffed or hemmed sleeve. Whether made up in a lightweight ponte or flirty floral jersey – there’s nothing basic about this pattern.

To find out more about Cashmerette patterns – click here

Traditional styling

The Nehalem is based on the traditional Thai trouser worn by fishermen. Sew House Seven has slimmed down and graded the design to fit better where the back rise has a bit of a curve for a more fitted and stylish back view. This sewing pattern is a one-size-fits-all, baggy, loose-fitting trouser that’s wrapped and tied to fit.

The pattern also includes a skirt with all the same design traits to make for an easy-to-wear piece. Both have oversized patch pockets and a wide waistband.

For the full range of Sew House Seven patterns – click here

Forties fashion

This dress comes from the ’40s when square shoulders, narrow hips, and skirts that ended just below the knee were the height of fashion. Fabric rationing lead to the use of darts, pleats, tucks, and other fabric manipulation to add interest to garments but used less fabric. The Lindy Dress from Folkwear has an interesting bodice construction, shoulder and waist pleats, darts, and a shawl-collar. Elbow-length sleeves with cuffs make this all yearround dress, and the midi dress is a style that we’ll be seeing more of this year.

To view more Folkwear vintage styled patterns – click here Check out the free-to-use resource listing of the very best Indie patterns and filter by fabric, garment, brand or skill level by visiting www.hantex.co.uk

Top trends for

2019 revealed

Sewing your own clothes is incredibly powerful. You can incorporate current trends into your own style making a garment completely unique. Brazilianborn sewing blogger, Rachel Pinheiro, shares some of the trends on the rise

Luxury in lace

A strong up-and-coming trend for spring is to wear luxurious fabrics like lace. This season, lace will lose its conservative connotation and has been deconstructed by cool brands. One tip when sewing with lace is to avoid backstitching the seams so remember to leave enough of a thread tail to tie off.

Elegant shorts

Modelo Fabrics lace

Waterproofs

You can never be too prepared for unpredictable weather. Parkas and Trench coat can be found in many styles. Consider using a flat-felled seam to create a light leak-proof seam, and to make sure it’s truly water-tight you can add a seam sealant.

Flint Shorts by Megan Nielsen

The wide-legged trend has finally moved to shorts, and are far less intimidating to wear. Choose a lightweight wool fabric for a winter version or chambray for summer. Wear it with a short, fitted leather jacket, and you can accentuate your waistline by half tucking your shirt in.

Showerproof quilted fabrics

Oversize hats

Oversized accessories are set to be huge news this year, so start making yours now. Go for the traditional bucket shape or a wide brimmed sunhat. I personally love an exaggerated brim as besides the striking silhouette, it protects my skin from the sun.

Craftwork

Folk elements are never far from the catwalk from patchwork, crochet, weaves and embellishments. This gives makers the perfect opportunity to incorporate other craft skills into dressmaking.

Join the high-end artisanal trend by adding trims and fringe to something you’ve made before or start fresh.

Kelly Anorak – Closet Case Files Crochet Edge Poplin bias tape

Lets talk

technical

Julie Bonnar explains why making a custom coat is an investment but also a rewarding make “Making your own coat is probably one of the most challenging things you can make, and there are quite a lot of things to consider before you start sewing.”

Fabric

Style This season the key trends include shearlings, sheepskin and faux fur, as well as oversized, edge-to-edge coats and capes. Practical styles like the Trench coat are popular and classic designs have been jazzed up with the addition of striking embellishments.

As a rule, a coat will last much longer if it is made with good quality fabric. It’s also less likely to suffer from pilling and sagging. Always buy the best fabric you can afford to make sure the quality is there to start. Wool blends are more durable but there’s nowhere to hide when sewing with plain colours, and every mistake shows.

Natural fibres are easier to work with and press nicely.

The little details

Shape

The Clare Coat from Closet Case Patterns is a stylish cool-weather staple featuring raglan sleeves and an unstructured A-line silhouette. It’s a great introduction to coat making.

To view this pattern – click here

But how do you go about choosing a design that will not only suit you but will be practical for years to come?

Beginners might want to opt to make a loose-fit coat that doesn’t involve a lot of fitting.

This style is great for the weekend, easy to layer up and wear with bulky knitwear.

However, a slightly fitted coat (if made well) is perfect for wearing to work or on special occasions.

practical and don’t show wear and tear or the dirt. However pastel or vibrant colours can look stunning and will become a statement piece in your wardrobe.

Neutrals are timeless, and beige is no longer considered a safe option as there are many shades to choose from including camel, grey, ivory and taupe.

Whatever colour you choose, bear in mind that this coat will be something you’ll want to wear for a long time so be sure you truly love it.

Modelo Fabrics has released a practical doublesided wool style coat fabric.

It’s machine washable and comes in some wonderful colours including rust, old gold, red, navy, denim and olive green. To view the full range – click here

Colour Dark colours are more

Making tips Always obtain a fabric sample, and take your time choosing the fabric.

Pin the tissue to yourself to make sure the fit is perfect.

Think ahead every step before machine stitching. I would recommend you tack/baste every seam allowance first especially if it’s an expensive fabric.

Getting the hemline right can make or break a coat. It’s worth considering hand stitching the hemline to get an invisible finish, and press well.

For a professional finish, make sure you use under-stitch and edge stitching.

Linings Add a splash of colour with a vibrant contrasting lining.

Linings are a must on an investment coat and help the coat retain its shape and structure.

Fastenings Add over-sized buttons, make your own fabric-covered buttons or choose something different like toggles, large press-studs or frog closures for a one-of-a-kind look.

Leftover fabric Make a matching corsage or handbag with leftover fabric.

Contrasting details Why not use a different fabric such as suede or faux leather for lapels, pockets, belts and collars or add a pretty bias binding around the collar.

Focus On Fabrics

Feast your eyes on the latest fabrics

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Soft and luxurious

Nicky Velour from Modelo Fabrics is the most amazingly plush knit fabric, and is perfect for garments where softness and warmth is key. The cotton (40%),polyester (40%) and nylon (20%) blend gives durability but without sacrificing comfort. Use to make winter tops, dresses, as well as kidswear. You can also use it for backing quilts for that super cosy feeling.

To take a closer look at these fabrics – click here

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A coat of many colours

Modelo Fabrics has just brought out a versatile double-sided, wool style coat fabric in this season’s colours including rust, old gold and olive green. It’s polyester/viscose blend makes it machine washable, practical and good value. It’s also long lasting, which coupled with the fact that handmade garments are treasured makes means reduced environmental impact too.

To see more of the fabulous colourways within the range – click here

Classic delights

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Inspired by the classical music of Ludwig van Beethoven, the Sonata fabric collection features playful window boxes, symphony instruments and edelweiss blooms, Amy Sinibaldi created her very own ‘Ode to Joy’ with a romantic palette of imperial blue, magenta, vermillion and dusty pinks to reflect her interpretation of the sonatas, concertos and symphonies. The range also features knits and rayons.

To view all the colour combinations from this Art Gallery Fabrics collection – click here

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At peace with nature

The new Cloud9 Underwood Stories collection illustrates a beautiful early morning walk in the woods, when the newly damp air is greeted by waves of dancing mushroom blooms and graceful garden snails. It has been designed

by Esther Nariyoshi and named after the small wonders under the timber trees. It’s 100% organic cotton and the perfect weight for making quilts and garments.

To view more Underwood Stories designs – click here

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Off the grid Grid by Katarina Roccella is one of the latest fabric collections from Art Gallery Fabrics, and features her distinctive artistic style from painted intricate florals, textures in tones of ultraviolet, mist, ochre, and black and white with wing scales in butterflies to city streets and tiny image pixels. The range also features knits and rayons.

For more information – click here

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The joy of

collections

Pat Bravo, founder of Art Gallery Fabrics explains why she’s in it for the long haul when it comes to creating beautiful fabrics

But how did it all begin? Pat Bravo started sewing at the age of 9 years old when like most of us she sat down at her mother’s sewing machine and by 13 years of age, she was hooked. She joined a sewing school in her native Buenos Aires in Argentina where she learned everything there was to know about fabrics, dressmaking and patterns. At college, she decided to study law but soon realised this wasn’t for her and dropped out and started painting classes, and met her husband Walter. In 1989, the couple moved to the US where they found everything was so different from culture to the food. “At this time, I had no energy for the things that I loved to do but all that changed when Walter bought me my first sewing machine,” says Pat. It was during this time that Pat fell in love with quilting and learned all she could about traditional quilting techniques.

“My tastes changed and started to love art quilts especially landscapes – abstract was my passion but it was so hard to find the colour variations you need; so it was then I decided to paint my own fabrics and not long after Walter and I started Art Gallery Fabrics,” Pat told us.

Fast-forward the clock 14 years and Pat has just launched her 40th collection – Legendary, and her passion and excitement for creating fabric has never waned. “I feel very

Passionate persistence and an infinite love for design has led Pat Bravo to design 40 collections over the past 14 years. The newly released Legendary fabric collection tells the story of her best-selling designs, and brings them together harmoniously through what is Pat’s signature an exquisite use of colour. proud. Legendary celebrates this achievement with a special selection of 24 fabrics taken from my most popular designs.

It’s so lovely to see so many of the older designs being reprinted,” Pat explains. The Legendary fabric collection has a bohemian flavour and is split into two colourways – Bold Dreams and Boho Soul. There are also three knit and two rayon options to choose from. The colours make the designs in this collection very versatile and ideal for dressmaking, accessories, home décor and quilting.

Pat explains that her inspiration mainly comes from fashion as it allows her to constantly evolve. Recently she has been drawn towards the ‘arts and crafts movement’, which is all about the handmade process and very dear to her.

What’s next for Pat and Art Gallery Fabrics? “I’m working on perhaps the most important collection of my life. It’s dedicated to the memory of my mom and will bear her name.

It has a lot of the designs she adored. I’m putting my heart and soul into this collection so I hope people will love it as much as I do.

To find out more about Pat Bravo’s Legendary fabric collection – click here.

Improv Quilting

Sarah Ashford, obsessive quilter and fabric lover shares how to embrace the freedom that comes with a more organic approach to quilting and ‘letting go’ of the traditional rules!

Mismatched points, irregular widths of fabric and total disregard of measurements are enough to strike fear into many a quilter’s heart.

But improvisational quilting, better known as ‘improv quilting’ can be a thing of beauty and a liberating process too. It’s my belief in life, as well as in quilting, that you should learn the rules first before you break them. Precision quilting and knowledge of traditional blocks are without doubt important and valuable skills to learn, and the majority of the quilts I’ve made conform to this, but now that I know these ‘rules’ I sometimes like to have fun with Improv, and see where the creative process takes me.

What are the differences?

One of the main differences between improv quilting and traditional blocks is the process.

When you piece a traditional block, you plan your fabrics and colours in advance and have a fairly good idea what the block is going to look like before you’ve stitched it. With improv quilting the process is more organic making design decisions and fabric choices, adding in whatever feels ‘right’ or pleases the eye as you go along. Sometimes it might be a case of choosing the fabric that’s nearest to you!

How to get started But if working this way seems a little daunting, why not use a traditional block as a starting point and go from there. A log cabin block is a good one to start with and a great opportunity for some fussy cutting too. Start with an irregular square (yes you can use a ruler and rotary cutter, but don’t do any measuring!) and slowly add strips around the square as you would for a traditional log cabin block. But rather than trimming them straight, vary the widths within the strip, make

The fabrics used are from the ColorMaster Designer curated collection by Amy Sinibaldi for Art Gallery Fabrics

“The great thing about Improv is there really are no rules. So I really encourage you to have a play, do what works for you, work organically and most of all have some fun with fabric!” them get wider or narrower – just have a play! When adlibbing, always make a block a good few inches larger than you need, and then trim it down to size. For example, if you’re making 12in blocks (as I have) make it up to 14in and then trim the block down accurately to 12½in.

I’ve worked in a similar way for the chevron block – adding irregular sized strips and choosing my fabrics as I go along, without planning too much at the outset.

I’ve then trimmed up each half into an accurate 6½in x 12½in rectangles before stitching them together to create a 12½in block.

In the final block, I have made four smaller blocks, two with a central motif and two by stitching strips together and trimming down to size, before joining them all together.

If you want to maintain some regularity within your work, why not make a series of improv blocks, and sash them in a neutral colour and give them a border to create some structure and order.

It can be useful to have a resting place for the eyes amidst all that irregularity.

Trendsetter How to sew the latest bag trends incorporating this year’s colour of the year from Pantone

CRUSH ON FABRIC

Coral is the colour for 2019

Journey from Monaluna

Barkcloth

Living Coral (16-1546) is Pantone’s colour of the year. This vibrant energetic nurturing shade is perfect for a ‘stand out from the crowd’ bag.

Bags of style

Canvas

Homestyle from Cloud9

Cotton

Pure Elements from Art Gallery Fabrics

3 bags styles that will freshen up your accessories collection

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The larger the bag the better!

Oversized bags are a key trend for this year. Fika is a Swedish word meaning ‘to have coffee’. The classic clean lines of this over-sized tote bag gives a nod to its Scandinavian heritage and also has lots of lovely features including front pockets, lapped zipper back pocket, recessed zipper closure and padded pockets.

To find out more about the Fika Tote from Noodlehead – click here

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We’ve got your back!

Backpacks have definitely grown up, and are ideal when you need your hands free. Carry all necessities at ease with this stylish version, which has a wide adjustable shoulder strap, side zipper opening, exterior flap pocket and a handy exterior phone pocket on the side for easy access. Just add a cool fringing or appliqué to bring it bang up to date.

To view the Cheyenne Rope Bag from Serendipity Studio – click here

Start a chain reaction Bags with chain handles are a mustmake, and Prym has a great selection of accessories for making amazing bags including the Mia 70cm bag chain, which will give your handmade bag a touch of designer style.

To view more Prym handles, frames and chains – click here