Modern Sewing Starts Here Edition 9

Edition 9 – March 2020

Modern sewing starts here..

SPRING

BEAUTY

GIVEAWAY

Win fabric, bag pattern and stabiliser!

wear the

TREND

5 unlined coats to make

Gorgeous fabrics to sew this season

SEW Mindful

We catch up with Matthew Boudreaux, AKA Mister Domestic who wants to spread joy & positivity through sewing!

Playroom designed by Matthew Boudreaux for Art Gallery Fabrics

PATTERN SPEAK Getting the most from your sewing pattern

www.modernsewingstartshere.co.uk

Editor’s Letter Hello Spring flowers are starting to bloom, and we’re certainly looking forward to some better weather. This edition will definitely put you in the mood as we take a look at the newest fabric collections from the designers at Art Gallery Fabrics. Talking of designers, we talk to Matthew Boudreaux (AKA Mister Domestic) about how sewing makes him feel.

Still in need of a lightweight coat, then look no further than our WIN W feature on 5 stylish unlined versions to make. Rachel Pinheiro shares IN WIN We hav e her planning process for making her capsule wardrobe and invites Each win 3 prizes to giv !

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Happy stitching!

Hantex team

www.hantex.co.uk www.modernsewingstartshere.co.uk Subscribe free to get your copy – click here

BY ANNIE BAG PATTERNS If you’re a bag maker then you’ll love this over-sized, sturdy Catch All Caddy with lots of easy-to-access slip pockets and dividers to hold and organise all your crafting supplies. Comfy padded fabric handles make carrying easy and attach with rectangle rings allowing them to fall flat along the side when in use. Why not make more for the nursery, office, car or the garden – this handy organiser makes a great gift too!

To view the whole By Annie bag sewing patterns – click here

#modernsewingstartshere

Focus on FABRICS

OH MEOW! Inspired by Jessica Swift’s two cats, this collection celebrates all the things that feline friends love the most. From yarn, string, and windows to peer out of, you’ll discover a purr-fect world in these playful and bright prints.

To find out about this fabric collection – click here

Feast your eyes on the latest fabric collections that are perfect for spring We’re excited to share the latest spring fabrics from Art Gallery Fabrics. All the collections below include cottons, rayons and knits so you can make the most of your sewing.

BALLERINA FUSION This AGF Designers’ collection is inspired by a certain cosiness that comes with quiet mornings and a warm cup of tea! It highlights lovely blush tones with soft, dainty and subtle textures. Beautify your home and bring the spring indoors with quilts, garments, pillows and table runners made with this fabric.

To see more from this collection from Art Gallery Fabrics – click here

MAYFAIR Designed by Amy Sinbaldi, this collection is reminiscent of her visits to Shepherd Market, Piccadilly, Hyde Park and Covent Garden.

Amy sketched the flower-filled neighbourhoods that surrounded her beloved hotel in Mayfair and this is reflected in this collection with a colour palette rich of greens, plum and marigold. This collection is ideal for home décor as well as garments.

To view the full range of colours – click here

BRIGHT FLORAL Feel the warmth of the coastal sun in Katie Skoog’s latest collection, Hello Sunshine with its whimsical feel!

You’ll get to mix and match bold, vibrant prints like fruity pineapples, chic geometrics, and birds of paradise flowers that will have you dreaming about the carefree days of warmer days ahead!

To view more of the lovely designs – click here

DARK & MOODY Discover an enchanting forest that awakes at dusk, when woodland animals come out to forage amongst the dark, moody florals, and towering trees with the Foresta Fusion collection by AGF Designers. Grounded in cranberry and pine with dusted pinks, this collection is for those whose hearts are filled with wanderlust, and filled with gorgeous versatile florals, trees and textures.

These prints will affirm your love for the wilderness and inspire you to make beautiful creations such as quilts, accessories and garments.

For more information about this range – click here

WILDFLOWER Designed by Cassidy Demkov, an artist and surface designer from Salt Lake City for Cloud9 Fabrics. This collection is made from 100% organic sateen cotton for a happy you and happy earth. It features sweet floral wildflower designs in pastel hues, which are ideal for making beautiful garments and pretty things for the home.

To see more from this Cloud9 collection – click here

mindful

All Matthew Boudreaux AKA Mister Domestic wants to do is spread joy & positivity through sewing and crafting When did you start sewing?

Although I owned a sewing machine for much of my life, I barely had the skill to sew curtains that didn’t fall apart until after my almost sevenyear-old daughter Helena was born in 2013.

I had always talked to my spouse about wanting to learn to sew and how neat it would be to connect with our child if we were ever blessed to have one. Shortly after her birth, I was gifted a couple of apparel sewing classes for my birthday, which was precisely what I needed to uncork the magic that was hiding inside just waiting for the right inspirational moment.

What has sewing brought to your life?

At its core, sewing has brought a dependable joyfilled activity into my life that I know I can escape into any time that I need to re-centre my spirit.

On a grander scale, sewing has provided a medium, and the Internet has given me a platform to create a community of like-minded sewists, quilters and makers that share my mission of spreading joy and positivity.

Never in my wildest dreams did I imagine that, at 43 years of age, me just being

my authentic self combined with my fearless approach to impossible projects and colour would be the catalyst for all this. There’s not a day that goes by where I’m not both inspired and grateful by this journey, and all of the wonderful people it has brought into my life.

People talk about sewing as a way of instilling an inner hygge. Why do you think sewing and crafting has this effect?

Okay so first, I had no clue what hygge was and, now that I do – it’s my new

dared to dream in the past.

I tell everyone that I’m a maker first, so I’m always thinking about how different prints and designs could work in actual projects as I’m designing. So it’s super cool to then get those designs and then make the things I was envisioning in my head as I was designing. It’s great to then see others make beautiful things with my fabrics – I am honoured, so so privileged!

favourite thing! Sewing and crafting are done at home for the most part, which lends them both to be filled with the comforts and coziness of home.

Add on top of that the love that goes into every stitch and the community (whether online or in person) that sewing and crafting both inspire and you’ve got yourself some hygge soup right there!

Tell us about your YouTube channel and the amazing response that you’ve had?

For years, I was petrified to get on YouTube. As anyone who follows me on any of my social media platforms

know, I unapologetically live my truth and pride myself on my authenticity. I spent too many years peeling back the layers of protective artifice to stand firmly in my skin (warts, vulnerabilities and all) to be anything but me.

And YouTube is that space on the interweb where the most of any creator is on display, also potentially inviting the anonymous hatred of trolls into their life. But the leap to YouTube became a business need for Mister Domestic as I found video the easiest way for me to answer questions, and share information to as many folks as possible. I had no idea that it would take off

like it did, and that so many people from all across the globe would be drawn to my style of teaching and sharing.

Now 150+ videos in, I’ve no plans of stopping and will continue sharing to as many folks as are out there that need a little extra joy and positivity in their lives.

What’s it like to become a fabric designer and having your designs in print?

It’s wild! Never in a million years did I ever think I’d become a fabric designer in my 40s. The guidance and support that I receive from my Art Gallery Fabrics family blows my mind and propels me to heights that I never

If you could collaborate with anyone in the sewing world, who would it be and why?

Awe, I know this is going to sound cheesy, so be forewarned. Honestly, I would continue to collaborate with the entire sewing community online and in person. Every day, multiple times a day, I am awestruck and inspired by folks in this community, which lifts me up and both makes me better as a creative and makes me want to be a better human.

The message of spreading joy and positivity through sewing and fabric play over in the Mister Domestic world isn’t something created by me. It’s created by all of us, and I am so honoured to be on this journey with so many awesome folks who just want to keep it positive.

To view Mister Domestic fabric collections for Art Gallery Fabrics – click here

Designing a

CAPSULE WARDROBE Brazilian-born sewing blogger, Rachel Pinheiro shares how to create your own capsule wardrobe My favourite part of making my own clothes is the planning, and imagining the final result, and which elements will make me joyfully exclaim “This garment is so me!” To help you on your journey, I’ve broken down some of the key principles of the design concept that you will need to consider:

Harmony This relates to the overall look of your garment, and how other elements such as shoes and accessories bring the whole look together to create a welldesigned outfit.

Silhouettes Silhouettes provide the first impact when people look at what you’re wearing from afar.

Lines These are used to emphasize or conceal your body shape, such as seams.

These direct our gaze and provide the tone. Does the garment promote the idea of femininity and flexible with curves or rigidity and strength?

Repetition Simple things like distance between buttons can often improve a design’s aesthetics.

Graduation or radiation Does the main design feature increase, decrease lines, shapes, colours, or textures from the centre? Is your eye drawn towards a particular area of a design?

Volume and texture It’s important to choose the right fabrics both for sewing and to the touch. The way fabric behaves when sewn and manipulated takes a little time to learn.

Contrast Challenge expectations on the focus areas. For example, a jacket that has sleeves could be transferred into a cape or a relaxed look using traditional menswear tweeds.

Balance Symmetry and vertical balance such as mirroring – lapels, pockets and buttons; horizontal such as top or bottom heavy all provide symmetry.

Proportion Look at how separate elements work together as a whole. Each person’s body will have its weight differently distributed creating unique proportions.

The most common proportions in terms of body type are pear shape, hourglass, apple etc. Those visual representations often reflect a silhouette. Use those design lines to highlight your favourite body parts.

Matching your lifestyle Above are some basic principles of fashion design to consider when designing your clothes but these won’t mean anything if the clothes you make don’t match your lifestyle.

It can take a little time to define the ‘formula’ that creates ‘you’. Have fun exploring when shopping and see how your favourite garment is cut, how it behaves on your body, and how comfortable it is.

What I love the most about sewing my own wardrobe is the ability to mix known design elements in a manner that feels authentic to my style.

When looking at a pattern try to separate the elements such as bodice, skirt, sleeve and neck-line, to explore the individual design possibilities.

With just a few small basic alterations such as hem height, neckline placement or changing from semi-fitted to fitted – you can transform a ‘meh’ outfit to a ‘wow!’

COLOUR Colour plays an important influencer, and creating an interesting palette that suits your personality and lifestyle. It’s a fun part of planning your handmade wardrobe. Use your gut instinct and think about the hue that represents how light or dark a colour is, as well as saturation, which is the intensity of a colour.

PERSONALITY

Finally, connect with your personality. We are not just one style type but generally we will prefer one and have two others we sway towards accordingly to your mood: Casual

Classic

Keyword: comfort

Keyword: timeless

Silhouette: relaxed

Silhouette: semi-fitted, masculine and minimalist

Personality: practical, informal, and not worried about fashion trends Composition: simplified, breathable, mix and match fabrics and garment Fabrics: linen, cotton, sweatshirt jersey, denim, and twill with no texture

Personality: focussed, reserved and professional Composition: tailored and straight lines Fabric: high quality fabrics such as crepes, silks, and tweeds Colours and prints: traditional prince of wales, pinstripes, neutral, browns and camels

Colours and prints: solid and light colours

Contemporary

Romantic

Keyword: modern

Keyword: delicacy

Personality: elegant and energetic

Personality: sensitive, dreamer

Composition: similar to classic but with one-of-akind influences on lines and balance.

Style: discrete designs, sometimes retro, frills and ruffles, volume.

Fabric: shirting, wools, crepes, jersey, and wool-silk mixes Colours and prints: trendy prints, colours from vibrant to discrete

Colours and prints: pastels and florals, Fabric: lace, chiffon, pleated, and viscose

Click on the images to learn more about the patterns and fabrics

Click on the images to learn more about the patterns and fabrics

Sexy

Urban

Keyword: sensuality

Keyword: rebel

Personality: confident, determined and bold

Personality: strong-willed

Style: tight, showing skin with cuts and length.

Colours and prints: bold colours and patterns Fabrics: leather, sequin, and transparency

Style: street, a bit rock chick or punk Colours and prints: black, contrasting with metal details Fabrics: leather and cotton

Creative Keyword: uniqueness Personality: unconventional, free to experiment with new combinations, and loves art Style: colourful and asymmetric Colours and prints: all prints and colours Fabrics: all

“

Make sure your wardrobe matches your personality as well as your lifestyle.

Want to practice what you have learned?

Why not grab a copy of my book, House of Pinheiro: Work to Weekend published by David Charles. It contains seven full-size patterns to create your own formula.

“

Pattern

SPEAK

With the introduction of the indie sewing patterns, patterns are becoming easier to understand but if you are still baffled, Julie Bonnar shares her tips on what you should look for

The common things on a sewing pattern: Fabric recommendations

Sewing patterns will always suggest a few types of fabric that have been tried and tested with the pattern. Using the fabric recommendations on the envelope is a safer bet to a successful garment!

Notions

There will always be a list of other bits and bobs that you will need such as zips, elastic and thread.

Make sure you take this list with you when you go shopping.

Sewing level

Every pattern will have a skill level saying whether the pattern is easy to make or a make for a more advanced sewer.

Sewing patterns marked easy or beginner will feature simple garments that contain fewer pattern pieces and don’t include zips and trickier techniques.

the fabric, where the grain line is, which pieces need aligning with the fabric fold, where to gather fabric, place darts, or indicate where a pattern can be lengthened or shortened.

Line drawings

The flat drawn designs on a pattern can help you decide if you like the overall style of the garment, and whether you think it will suit you without the distraction of fabric. Most patterns come with several views (variations) and on the line drawing you can see the differences between the styles more easily.

Key to sizing

Multi-sized pattern pieces will have a coloured or style of line to denote the different sizes to help you cut out your size.

Fabric yardage

Here you will find how much fabric it will take Pattern layout to make this garment This will tell you what based on your size. The pattern pieces you need The pattern envelope shown here is from the Rushcutter pattern usually includes for each view. It will Dress by In the Folds. To find out more – click here the yardage amount for also explain which is the both 115cm or 150cm wrong and right side of (45in/60in) fabric widths. the fabric/pattern, and These amounts should take into account prehow to lay the pattern out on the fabric. washing shrinkage although it’s always a good idea to buy a little more for patterns with a nap or those Symbols with a print or pattern.

These tell you how to place the pattern on top of

Visit the Pattern Finder - click here

New sewing pattern releases that you’ll want to sew!

MADE BY RAE An easy make

The Luna pants are loose-fitting pants with a tapered leg and such a comfortable fit. A quick sew, these trousers comprise of just four main pieces, with facings attached inside to form the waistband, and of course the must-have inseam pockets! Choose a variety of prints and fabrics to style these for both casual and dressier occasions in fabrics like voile, rayon challis, shot cotton, shirting, double gauze lawn, broadcloth, and lightweight chambray.

To view this sewing pattern – click here

THE SEWING WORKSHOP Weekend wardrobe

CASHMERETTE Cardigans are cool!

Layer up with the Fuller Cardigan! This raglan cardigan features shoulder and bust darts for the ideal fit over curves. Options include a mid-hip with a deep, faced V-neck and oversized buttons, or go for a cropped at the natural waist with a boxy fit. The pattern comes in sizes 12-32, and three-cup sizes (C/D, E/F, G/H).

To view all patterns from Cashmerette – click here

These slim tapered jeans feature a fly front zipper, front pockets and diagonal darts below zipper, and sits at natural waist.

Featuring a trendy ankle length with double-fold cuff, they are stylish and perfect for the weekend!

Make the Getaway Jeans in stretch denim, wovens such as twill, or corduroy.

To find out more about this jean sewing pattern and more from The Sewing Workshop – click here

Hard to find sporting sewing patterns for the family Finding patterns for sporting activities can be difficult but Jalie specialises in finding these more sought-after patterns

RUNNING

The Cora running tights and shorts make sewing your own leggings a breeze. Choose from ankle-length, seamless between the legs, wide waistband and a practical pocket at the back or midthigh shorts with leg band. This pattern is recommended for knit fabrics with 60% stretch in the length and across the width. Sizing includes girls, women and plus sizes. Use hardwearing fabrics and turn these into jodhpurs or breeches for horse riding.

BALLET

This leotard features a shelf bra lining, short and long sleeves and ballet leg, Make with the twistfront for added elegance!

SPORTS SUPPORT

This comfy, airy, modest and stylish layered tank gives you the support of a sport’s bra underneath but the modesty of a flowing tank. The wide hem band keeps the top in place. It’s ideal for wearing for exercise classes.

To view these sewing patterns and others from Jalie – click here

GYMNASTICS

The Tessa Leotard has long sleeves, V-waist and optional inset for a V-neck illusion that totally transforms this practical design. Add the quick and easy to sew circle skirt for a skating dress.

YOGA

Keep calm and relax in these yoga pants.

Fitted through the hips and thighs for extra comfort, and slightly flared from the knee down. The wide faced two-piece waistband allows for fun colour blocking, and a seam at the back of the leg provides flattering fit and easy adjustment. A shorts pattern is also included which are great for the beach, dance classes or the gym. Make in knit fabric that has 50% stretch across the grain and length. This pattern has sizing for girls, women and plus sizes.

Check out the free-to-use resource listing of the very best Indie patterns and filter by fabric, garment, brand or skill level by visiting www.hantex.co.uk

Trendsetter light and airy

5 unlined coats to sew for spring

Ulysses Coat Victory Patterns

Alston Reversible Jacket Sew to Grow

An oversized jacket with raglan sleeves and dramatic cascading collar is perfect for layering, and what’s more it’s reversible! It looks fabulous in linen or vintage broadcloth.

To find out more about this pattern – click here

Sienna Maker Jacket Closet Case Files

This long line jacket mixes trench coat styling such as shoulder epaulettes, vent and curved back rain guard overlay with modern looks. Why not make the inside as good as the outside with bound seams. This pattern is perfect for making in medium-weight fabric with high drape like Tencel twill, soft linen; double weave crepe, and bamboo twill.

To view this sewing pattern - click here

A chic utility jacket inspired by vintage French workwear. This stylish outerwear is a highly practical layer for use wearing outside, and in the studio for makers.

With a slightly dropped shoulder, Sienna features a crisp notched collar, which can be worn buttoned at the neck with an optional snap button.

To find out more about this maker’s coat – click here

Cambria Duster Friday Pattern Company

5 4

Swing Coat Folkwear Patterns

This unlined duster is a versatile and great transseasonal piece. It has a dramatic, wide draped shawlstyle collar, and a flattering shin length. Secure the ties in back for a clean, shapely look, or wrap them around in front for a little more coverage. Designed for woven fabrics such as rayon twill, gabardine, and rayon challis – it would also look great made in light wool or boucle!

To view this sewing pattern - click here

This easy breezy coat is a cinch to make with just four main pattern pieces. Sleeves are narrow at the wrist so you can push them up for a casual look and they will stay put. The coat offers two pocket options – side-seam and patch. Choose fabrics that drape but still have body such as lightweight linen gabardine (rayon wool or cotton), lightweight denim and soft cotton twill. For a crisp sculptured evening look consider silk taffeta or for a sheer translucent style with silk organza.

To find out more about this lovely pattern – click here

Fabrics suitable for sewing lightweight coats

Linen Slub The viscose and linen blend from Modelo wrinkles less and is soft on the skin.

To view all the colourways – click here

Linen Blends This premium linen blend from Art Gallery Fabrics is the ideal for a coat staple.

To see more colours – click here

Rayon Ponte Roma Springfield Denim Rayon is the ultimate Perfect for lightweight This denim from soft drapeable fabric. garments like coats.

Modelo is great To view the Art Gallery To see more of this quality and comes in Fabrics collection Modelo range stretch and non-stretch – click here – click here options.

To view more – click here

HARTFORD NEEDLECORD Cord is back and has lost its old-fashioned image. With the Hartford fine stretch needlecord collection, you can look forward to beautiful vibrant colours. This mix of cotton and elastane makes for a particularly durable fabric but still with a wonderfully soft feel. It’s perfect for making jeans, dungarees, skirts, jackets, hats and bags!

To view the full collection – click here

WHAT’S

NEW

We keep you posted on the latest launches

This edition, we concentrate on keeping you up-to-date with the new fabric releases that Modelo Fabrics has to offer dressmakers. Modelo offers good quality along with the latest trend-driven colours. With many now offering OEKO-TEX environmental certification the fabrics are also kinder to the environment.

RIGA ALPEN FLEECE- BACKED SWEATSHIRT

MILANO VISCOSE HEATHERED JERSEY KNIT The viscose jersey has a slightly softer feel than the Hoxton Heathered and contains 5% elastane for stretch! It comes in 14 plain colours, as well as two beautiful prints.

To view the complete range of colours – click here

Who doesn’t love a cosy sweatshirt to lounge around in? The double-sided super-soft Alpen has a fleece finish on one side and a sweatshirt finish on the other side. Snuggly yet practical, it’s perfect for sweatshirts, tops and sweatpants, and comes in 17 pretty colours.

To see more from this super-soft range – click here

HOXTON HEATHERED JERSEY KNIT This collection features some beautifully rich colours with 10 bold colour ways to choose from. This fabric has 10% elastane making it perfect for making garments that need stretch such as dresses and tops.

To find out more about this jersey range – click here