Modern Sewing Starts Here Issue 3

Edition 3 - March 2019

Modern sewing

starts here...

The heart

of a sewing project How to choose the right wadding

Pattern

PLAY

Rachel Pinheiro shares how to wear and sew

PLUS…  The latest sewing

pattern releases  Styles to sew for this season  Five tools that you didn’t know you needed for dressmaking

Hantex is now distributing Albstoffe organic fabrics and trimmings (pictured here)

www.modernsewingstartshere.co.uk

www.hantex.co.uk

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Editor’s Letter Hello

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There are lots of innovative new products to the market so for this edition it’s been difficult to choose, as there are so many great ones we could have mentioned. This time we discuss the print-on-print trend, 5 exciting new products that dressmakers will want to have in their sewing room and share a few questions that you should ask yourself to make choosing the right wadding easier. We’re also delighted to catch up with Maureen Cracknell, one of Art Gallery Fabrics’ designers.

Happy sewing!

Five new fabric collections coming your way!

Hantex

www.hantex.co.uk www.modernsewingstartshere.co.uk Subscribe free to get your copy – click here

News update.........….

Made with love, sustainability and perfection We’re delighted to share that Hantex is now the distributor in the UK and Eire for Albstoffe’s beautiful jacquard and jersey fabric with designs from Hamburger Liebe, as well as the co-ordinating Knit Knit and Big Knit Jacquards in the Wanderlust collection for spring/summer 2019. You can also buy the perfectly matched Cuff ME, Stripe ME and Cord ME trimmings. All are produced in Germany using the highest quality GOTS organic fabrics To find out more about these designs – click here Row for the Ocean update Just 43 days after leaving the Canary Islands, the Row For The Ocean transatlantic rowing team arrived in Antigua. Hantex sponsored them as part of the Sew For The Ocean campaign to improve the environmental credentials of products used in the sewing industry.

Not only was it an amazing time, they were the first female team to arrive! Money raised during their crossing will go to SAS.org who campaign for plastic free communities and cleaner oceans.

Hantex is rapidly expanding the range of organic and Oeko-Tex certified fabrics, as well as introducing new products such as organic sewing threads, all with the longer-term aim of making sewing sustainable.

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WEST PALM

Featuring candid flamingos and seashore-infused motifs celebrating coastal lifestyle in shades of coral, aquamarine and lemon yellow – click here

ICON ELEMENTS Go for bold colour with 100% premium cotton in sumptuous colours – click here

NEW DENIMS

A new lightweight denim collection that’s perfect for making clothes – click here

RAINCOAT FABRICS Make a splash with the coolest waterproof prints – click here

MYSTICAL FOLK The Lugu collection is designed by Jessica Swift, and is inspired by her love of nature, and affinity for the mystical. It tells the story of owls, moths, and crown-wearing deer meandering under the sky, and through flowers and branches.

Dawn and dusk define the colours in this bright yet mysterious woodland world. The range features cottons, knits and rayons.

To view this Art Gallery Fabrics collection – click here

Focus on

FABRICS Feast your eyes on the latest fabrics for spring sewing

CORD IS BACK!

GO WILD!

Corduroy and needlecord fell out of fashion but now it’s back on the must-sew list. Say goodbye to the old-fashioned image of this chunky durable fabric, and look forward to new vibrant colours. This ridged-classic fabric now comes in lots of exciting colours, and is perfect for making jeans, dungarees, pinafores, skirts, blazers, and bags too. The fabric’s mix of cotton and elastane makes it hardwearing yet really soft.

To take a closer look at this range from Modelo fabrics – click here

Reminiscent of a safari trip through the jungle, the Wild fabric collection offers a bold and whimsical take on the designer’s favourite untamed creatures and flora. Leah Duncan features tigers, elephants, zebra and lions and cranes to her signatures pieces of nature and geometric prints in vibrant colours. The collection is made from 100% organic quilters weight cotton, and includes barkcloth.

To see more of this Cloud9 fabric collection – click here

HEATHERED JERSEY This Oeko-Tex heathered knitted jersey is an excellent quality fabric for making tops, skirts, dresses and giving depth to any garment. It’s made up of 80% cotton, 15% polyester and 5% lycra, which gives it a wonderful stretch.

To see more of this Modelo range – click here

THE SOFTEST JERSEY IMAGINABLE

BALANCE OF NATURE Another Cloud9 new release is the Field & Sky range made from 100% organic sateen cotton. This will add a lovely sheen to your dressmaking and other sewing projects. The collection designed by Yao Cheng features beautiful floral designs mixed with abstracts in the same colour palette of greens and blues with subtle warm orange and pink tones that will remind you of nature.

To check out more of this collection – click here

ALL THE FUN OF THE FESTIVAL Festival is the latest 100% organic cotton collection and showcases stunning designs of exotic animals, fruit and flowers by designer, Jennifer Moore.

The fabric company started out from Jennifer’s desire to bring more sustainable alternatives to the fabric marketplace, and has been growing steadily.

To view this fabric range from Monaluna – click here

T-shirt illustrations are from the popular Lark Tee sewing pattern from Grainline

Modelo Fabrics has just launched a beautiful range of organic beach jersey with summery seaside prints including waves, shells, sealife and seahorses. With its very subtle colour palette, it’s perfect for warmer weather makes such as dresses and tops for all the family.

To view the full range – click here

Pattern Play Wearing print-on-print based on a set colour scheme can actually work. Brazilian-born sewing blogger, Rachel Pinheiro, shares how she made it work on the Ulysses Trench Coat from Victory Patterns

T HE T REND:

MIXING PRINTS

Accordingly to Vogue magazine, “Prints should be worn all-over, clashed merrily and madly with little concern for what goes with what”. I love mixing and matching patterns, colours, and prints in my handmade outfits – it’s fun and liberating to wear beautiful fabrics all at once. Putting different prints together can be intimidating, but with these tips, you’ll get it in no time at all.

Picking fabrics

A plan of action

 Choose the same fabric types as they will behave as one. The rayon I used was a delight to sew.  Make sure the prints have a unifying element such as fabric colour, print style, density or scale. They can be the same, opposite or complementary.  Play with size and density of pattern. Match big and bold prints with smaller and subtler designs.  A fail-safe way to start is with bolder prints and pick out just one colour from its pattern.  For the second print, opt for a more delicate design that utilises just that one shade.  Eye-catching prints in vivid colours will make the boldest of outfits.

There are a few ways to apply this trend:  Pick a sewing pattern that allows the use of different fabrics on areas such as yokes and seams.  Hack a pattern to create extra seams.  Patchwork your fabric first and then cut the sewing pattern out.

Project thoughts I opted to make the Ulysses Trench Coat from Victory Patterns as I felt the relaxed nature of this sewing pattern would work with my concept of creating a patchwork textile print. I tested a few ideas on how to maximise the impact and scale of mixing the prints by experimenting with different sizes of stripes and geometric shapes.

By creating an uneven spontaneous design – this would suit my vision best, as I want people to see the different fabrics as one digital print.

Construction wise, I wanted the inside to be neat as the outside but didn’t wnat to lined it fully so I used a combination of seam finishes such as French and Flat Felled.

The fabric I chose came from the Heritage Collection by Art Gallery Fabrics, which has been designed by pattern designer, April Rhodes (Treasured Kermes and Mountain Mirror in rayon).

To view the Heritage fabric collection – click here To find out more about the Ulysses Trench Coat from Victory Patterns – click here

Sewing made

simpler!

Julie Bonnar shares 5 items for sewing that you didn’t know you needed!

Finding tools that make sewing easier is a must for me.

Here I’ve shared five items – some new and some not so new that I know you won’t want to be without!

Sew while the iron’s hot

Within easy grasp

Pressing is a key part of sewing and this minty green mat is such a useful item. Sew Hot Iron Rest from It’s Sew Emma provides a place where you can rest your iron face down in between pressing seams – saving time and avoiding any chance of the iron tipping over. The heavy-duty silicone surface is a really good size, and fits most irons and can withstand up to 260°C. You’ll want to leave it out as it has an inspirational message and a pretty moulded pattern!

Find out more – click here

I’ve just been introduced to these wonderful easy grasp pins from Prym. They have a long, concave handle made of plum-coloured plastic, which is easy to pick up, easy to see, and easy to place on fabric. The pin has a fine tip, which penetrates any fabric type and is kind on the fibres too.

To find out more – click here

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TIP: Sit it by the side of your sewing machine for smaller sewing projects so you don’t have to keep going to the ironing board.

Sew magnetism

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This multipurpose organiser is worth its weight in gold and features a bobbin ring with magnetic pincushion in the middle. I’m a fan of magnetic pincushions but this one has a few little extras – it holds the pins across the middle recess allowing you to grab and pick up your pins easily and also has a hidden area underneath to store your pins.

The bobbin ring is made of flexible plastic, will take 30 bobbins, and has non-slip feet to help it stay put on any surface.

To view this Prym product – click here

Get a grip!

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The Oh Sew Stash n Store is the perfect little device to keep your sewing notions within arms reach and ready to sew! It will store all those marking tools, scissors and items within an easy-to-grab position. The silicone pockets are smooth and provide a sturdy grip. It’s very easy to keep clean and there are six pretty colours to choose from.

To view all storage ideas – click here

On your marks

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Use this ergonomic chalk wheel stick much like you do a rotary cutter. It’s really easy to grip as it has a recess for your index or middle finger to rest helping you to keep the right pressure on to release a good amount of chalk to mark your project. You can also buy refills for it.

To view this handy marking tool from Prym – click here

A sewing revelation

Maureen Cracknell talks about how she discovered sewing and why she loves designing fabrics for Art Gallery Fabrics

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How did you get into sewing?

While I was pregnant with my daughter, I became obsessed with knitting. I always had a pair of needles and a project in my hands those days. My husband decided that since I loved knitting that perhaps I’d love sewing just as much, and so he surprised me with a fancy sewing machine for our fifth wedding anniversary.

It took a couple of years after that for me to actually use it, and it wasn’t until

was shopping online that I discovered the beautiful, modern fabric collections that were available for home sewers. I bought a bundle and set up my machine and started sewing with the help of all the tutorials that were available online. After years of clicking away on the needles and all the time it took to finish a knitting project, I was amazed that I was able to start and finish a project in one short sewing session. I was hooked!

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When did you start creating designs for fabric?

Not long after I started sewing, I discovered Art Gallery Fabrics (AGF). and fell in love with its colourful, unique designs and the feel of the luxury Pima cotton.

Through using Pat Bravo’s fabrics in many of my sewing projects and sharing them on my blog – Maureen Cracknell Handmade – Pat and I began corresponding and immediately became friends. We’d occasionally collaborate on her Quilt Market projects and co-host

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How do you select colours for each collections?

The collections themselves inspire the colour palettes that I choose. Some collections, like Sun Kissed for example, need to be bright and cheery. While others like Nightfall and Mystical Land require moody soft colours. fabric giveaway’s on my blog.

I had shared some of my artwork on my blog, Pat saw and a conversation started about the possibility of me designing for AGF. I had so much to learn, and with Pat as my mentor, I became one of AGF’s Limited Edition designers in 2014. Four years after I began sewing, I rhad eleased my first fabric collection, Wild & Free. It was a dream come true for me!

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What inspires your designs when creating a new collection of fabrics?

Each of my collections has a story inspired by my life – where I live, the loss of my father, walking my dog Penny late at night, in remembrance of a dear friend, things I collect, and trips I’ve taken.

Each collection is very meaningful to me!

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How many fabric collections have you designed so far, and are there any new one in the pipeline for AGF? Mystical Land is due out soon and is my 10th fabric collection for AGF. And yes, there are always new ones in the pipeline. I love designing and hope to do this for as long as I’m able to!

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When is the new Mystical Land collection available and what sort of things do you see sewers wanting to make with it?

Mystical Land ships to UK stores in May and I can’t wait!

For this collection, I’m most excited about the quilts that it will inspire. All 20 quilting cottons go together so effortlessly, and the magical night-time theme of the prints cry out for making cosy pillows and bed quilts that are perfect for dreaming!

Don’t forget there is also three amazing knits and one rayon within this collection that are perfect for dressmaking projects.

To view all Art Gallery Fabrics collections from Maureen Cracknell – click here

The wonders of

WADDING

Waddings are at the heart of every quilting project. Trudi Wood, patchwork and quilting tutor explains where to start when it comes to choosing it for your next project

with big stitches, or machine quilted? Are you going to be using a domestic machine or by sending it out to a longarmer. A wool wadding is easiest to hand quilt and the thickest. Bamboo is the lightest and has a slightly better drape.

What sort of loft do you want?

With such a vast array of wadding (also known as batting) to choose from – how do you know where to start? Do you want cotton, polyester, wool, soy, bamboo or a mix? Do you need with or without scrim, eco-friendly or fusible – the list goes on.

As a long-arm quilter, I’m often asked these questions.

So I always start by asking myself a few questions about the project I’m sewing.

This can identify or eliminate certain waddings to start with: Is it for a potholder, table runner (or oven gloves), which will hold hot dishes?

Immediately, I know to look at thermal wadding that will protect my hands and furniture for these projects.

Legacy Insul-Fleece is perfect for these types of projects.

Having an aluminised scrim, it protects and holds heat, as well as keeping things cool

“We are all different as is each project, and it’s definitely not a one size fits all when it comes to wadding!” so works for lunch bags or bottle holders too.

Is it a quilt for a special occasion? Does the project warrant something special like wool (or silk) wadding such as Legacy 100% Wool, which is perfect for vintage and antique-inspired quilts?

The thermal qualities of wool are fabulous given they’re also so lightweight. They breath naturally yet insulate better than other waddings.

If like me, it’s not how much insulation there is but purely the weight involved you might like a heavier weight wadding like cotton or a bamboo.

or a child or baby? If the quilt is for children, I would recommend using a wadding that is made completely of natural fibres as it is recommended that only natural fillings should be used for babies.

Who is it for?

What type of quilting are you planning to do?

If it’s for a quilt – is it for an adult (are they quilt worthy)

Will the project be hand quilted either traditionally or

Loft is how much bounciness there is in the wadding – low loft means a thinner quilt while high loft means a thicker one. Wool and polyester add loft, where as cotton or bamboo have a flatter look to them. It may depend on your style of quilting, and just how much you want to be able to see it.

Products mentioned: Legacy from Pellon Insul-Fleece – click here Legacy 100% Wool – click here

Use the Hantex wadding selector to find the right wadding for your project – click here

Trendsetter

We look at two everyday fabrics, which have had a bit of a makeover – denim and sweatshirting

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Sassy sweatshirts

Originally designed for sport, the humble sweatshirt is now a stylish staple in our wardrobes.

However when it comes to fabric, the quality of sweatshirt fabric can vary. Hantex has a comprehensive selection with a real emphasis on quality and wide range of colours to choose from.

Sweatshirt pattern from Jalie Patterns – click here

Opt to make sweatshirt in a plain colour and personalise it with a logo like this one from Jalie Patterns – this is a hot trend this season.

Jarrah Top from Megan Nielsen – click here

Use them together to create cool colour blocking designs

Modelo’s French Terry – click here

Cool colours for denim

On the High Street, there’s been an explosion of coloured denim in soft shades from light pink jeans to coral jackets all waiting for warmer weather!

This typically American fabric has been re-invented once more, and you can ‘Feel the Difference’ with Art Gallery Fabrics’ Denim Studio series 2 featuring new 100% premium cotton substrates.

With an array of prints, crosshatch designs and on-trend pastel colours – these are ideal for making garments, quilting, accessories, and home décor to brighten up the home.

To view the complete denim collection from Art Gallery Fabrics – click here

Or add a patterned sweatshirt fabric shown here on the Jarrah Sweater sewing pattern from Megan Nielsen.

Modelo Fabrics has a super selection of organic brushed back French terry, which is excellent quality fabric, and combines the wearable, softness of jersey with the everyday practicality of a sweat! There’s a hint of lycra, which helps this fabric retain its shape and lasts longer.

Pick of the

PATTERNS New sewing pattern releases that will become wardrobe essentials Shapely silhouette The Ellis Skirt is designed for stretch woven fabrics, and comes in two styles – an iconic denim straight skirt and a sleek mini-skirt with topstitched pockets. In order to help curvy sewers get the best fit, Cashmerette has included two pelvis fits for apple and pear body shapes, as well as shaped seaming and back darts.

To view this pattern– click here

3 new pattern releases The Joan Trousers are treggings – a mix of trouser style with the comfort of knit fabric leggings and the Adrienne Blouse is a stylish knit top with billowy statement gathered sleeves and features a slightly cropped length where the hem hits just below your belly button. As you can see these patterns look great worn together.

The Hughes Dress features slimming princess seams, sleeves that gather at the cap, and a gorgeous scoop neckline. The pattern comes with options to make as a peplum top, above-the-knee length dress or midi dress making it versatile for everyday.

To view this pattern and others from the Friday Pattern Company – click here

A staple piece for your wardrobe The Jasika Blazer is a tailored jacket with a semi-fitted shape that will never go out of style. With just the right amount of polish and detail, Jasika is a wardrobe workhorse.

The pattern uses modern speed tailoring methods, fusible interfacings and minimal hand sewing to make it accessible for everyone. Fun features include a classic notched collar, shoulder pads, welt pockets and pocket flaps, gorgeous two-piece sleeves and elbow patches.

Find out more about this pattern from Closet Case Patterns – click here Check out the free-to-use resource listing of the very best Indie patterns and filter by fabric, garment, brand or skill level by visiting www.hantex.co.uk

SEW IN STYLE 3 styles that you will want to sew this season

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THE WRAP

The wrap dress is as popular this year as it was last. It’s a style that flatters all body shapes and a garment in your wardrobe that you can rely on. The Eve wrap dress from Sew Over It is a versatile wrap dress with endless potential and has two completely different variations in one pattern. Whether you go boho romantic for summer garden parties or sleek and elegant for everyday – this dress pattern is a must-make.

To view this pattern from Sew Over It – click here

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ASYMMETRICAL HEM

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BOILERSUIT

Another garment that’s standing the test of time is the jumpsuit. This popular all-in-one alternative, we’re seeing this season with boilersuit styling including pockets and front buttoning. The Yari jumpsuit is a loose-fit jumpsuit with four views, which all have angled patch pockets set into princess seams, a V-neckline and a front button closure with sleeve options.

To view this pattern from True Bias – click here

An asymmetrical hemline will give a garment an edgy twist, and it needn’t be in the form of a typical high-low hem. Hems that hang low in all directions can draw your eye. The Floreat from Megan Nielsen can be made into a dress or blouse from both woven and knit fabrics. The pattern features clean lines, inseam pockets, as well as multiple sleeve and hem lengths.

To view this pattern from Megan Nielsen – click here