Modern Sewing Starts Here Edition 13

Edition 13 – November 2020

Modern sewing starts here..

your winter projects Make a connection with your clothes Meg McElwee from Sew Liberated explains how

GIVEAWAY! We’ve 5 REMY Raglan Top sewing patterns from Sew House Seven to give away

Image features the Merry & Bright fabric collection from Art Gallery Fabrics

www.modernsewingstartshere.co.uk

by Modelo Fabrics

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Rio Cotton Sateen

Rio Cotton Sateen with a hint of stretch, perfect for the Ultimate Trousers by Sew Over It Patterns Photo and make : Loopy Mabel

For more details and stockists visit www.modelofabrics.co.uk

Quality wearable fabrics

Editor’s Letter Hello Although a little different than usual this year, who doesn’t love the lead up to Christmas?

Want some Christmas inspiration, then check out Sarah Ashford’s review and sweet little makes with the new Cozy & Joyful fabric collection from Art Gallery Fabrics. We also share some of the festive fabrics that you can have fun making your Christmas stockings and other handmade gifts with. In focus on fabrics, catch up with the beautiful new fabric releases – there are some gorgeous colours that represent this season so well.

We’re also excited to share our interview with Meg McElwee from Sew Liberated who shares what sewing means to her and why sewing is more than just making clothes.

Happy stitching!

Hantex team

WIN

WIN We hav e 5 Rem WIN! y Raglan sewing T p House S atterns from S op ew even to give For a ch ance to away. win – click h ere Closin 31st De g date is cember 2020

www.hantex.co.uk www.modernsewingstartshere.co.uk Subscribe free to get your copy – click here

LAUNCHING SOON Due out at the end of November are four new stylish patterns from Liesl + Co. The Yanaka Jacket, Noord T-shirt & Sweatshirt, Fitzroy Blouse, and last but not least the Easton Cowl Neck Tee If you’d like a sneak peek at these gorgeous new sewing patterns – click here

#modernsewingstartshere

Dashing Jet in rayon

India Ink Impression from Destiny

DESTINY & FATE

Cut Flowers from Fate

Kismet is the new fabric collection for Art Gallery Fabrics from Sharon Holland. The name Kismet means fate or destiny and this fabric line features 16 stunning autumn-inspired prints in two colour ways.

The Fate range consists of hues of charcoal, amber, cinnamon, pumpkin, and creams while Destiny contains charcoal, blush, berry, honey and off-white.

The collection also features two rayon fabrics and comes in a set of fat quarters.

To see more from this autumnal fabric line – click here

n o s u c o F FABRICS

Feast your eyes on the forthcoming fabric releases!

ARTS & CRAFTS STYLE

LIGHTWEIGHT AND DURABLE Monaluna produces 100% organic fabrics with a high threadcount that are all GOTS-certified. Modern Love is the latest poplin collection to be released, and brings together tiny meadow flower prints with woodland animals in a blue and coral colour palette.

This range is perfect for making garments, bags and small home furnishing items.

To view the full Modern Love range by Monaluna - click here

Channelling her inner William Morris, Katarina Roccella’s Picturesque embodies traditional 19thcentury European designs with embellishments and decorative art. This collection is nothing short of luxurious, with its enriched botanical details, mythical unicorns, and English blooms and a refined colour palette of pastel blue and pink.

This range is perfect for making beautiful purses, soft furnishings like cushions and quilts, as well as clothing.

To see more from this Art Gallery Fabrics collection – click here

Tropical Garden – click here

ORGANIC COTTONS The first of Cloud9 Fabrics’ 2021 collection has just been released, with more on the way. Universal Love by Elizabeth Olwen that features fun geo designs celebrating affection and Tropical Garden by Sue Gibbins showcasing pretty birds, fireflies, butterflies and flowers in a beautiful combination of pinks, oranges, greens and blues.

To see more from these two new collections from Cloud9 - click the link on the fabric swatches.

Universal Love – click here

CELESTIAL AND SHRUB Luna & Laurel fabric collection from Art Gallery Fabrics invites you to walk by the stars and a sky drawn with flowers in a mystical world. Here spirit and nature connect with botanical and esoteric elements to allow your curious soul to wander. This collection is perfect for making stunning napkins and placemats for a special dinner at home.

To view more from this heavenly-sent collection – click here

Laurel Daring comes in rayon too!

New sewing pattern releases that you’ll want to sew!

SEW HOUSE SEVEN

This super simple top is quick to make and just as easy to wear with its loose relaxed fit. It has been designed to have the sleeves rolled up and it should be noted the sleeves look best that way.

The top is short and created to wear with the latest high waist trousers and skirts. It comes in a wide selection of sizes from standard 0-18 and curvy sizes 14-34, and it’s perfect for making with linens.

To see more of the Remy Raglan Top pattern – click here

GRAINLINE STUDIO

The Augusta is a cocoon shaped dress or shirt with an asymmetrical collar and mitred split hem. Like all sewing patterns from Grainline, it’s extremely practical and has a short-cuffed sleeve for warmer days as well as a long straight sleeve for cooler times. Both are interchangeable with the dress and the shirt.

This pattern is ideal for making in light to medium weight woven fabrics such as cotton, linen, chambray and rayon. It’s now available in sizes 0-18 and 14-30.

To find your local stockist and view this pattern – click here

STYLE ARC

The Jara Knit Tunic is ideal for downtime days, as it has a relaxed slouchy fit. It also has an interesting asymmetrical hem and sleeve tucks that give this sweatshirt an easy stylish feel too.

To view more Style Arc patterns – click here

Check out the free-to-use resource listing of the very best Indie patterns and filter by fabric, garment, brand or skill level by visiting www.hantex.co.uk

CASHMERETTE

The Saybrook Tank is a versatile top that has a high scoop neck with a high back and a stylish knotted hem, or a low scoop neck camisole with a low back and straight hem, you can even make a cropped tank version that’s perfect for sport activities. This top is great for layering under sheer garments or by itself for hotter days. It’s a must-make for today’s comfy styling!

To find out more about this sewing pattern – click here

WARDROBE BY ME

The Anna Shirt for women and the Jensen Shirt for men have the same classic relaxed-fitting button shirt with yoke, collar, and stand.

The sleeves can be cuffed or short, and you can also make the shirt with a pointed or curved collar or just the stand. The hem has a slight curve and is longer in the back. The Anna is available in women sizes 0-24 US and 30-54 EU, and the Jensen in sizes 2XS-3XL. To find out more about the Anna Shirt – click here and to view the Jensen Shirt – click here

Check out the free-to-use resource listing of the very best Indie patterns and filter by fabric, garment, brand or skill level by visiting www.hantex.co.uk

Sew a

RAGLAN SLEEVE Julie Bonnar from The Pattern Pages explains the ins and outs of the raglan sleeve

WHAT IS A RAGLAN SLEEVE?

A raglan sleeve is a sleeve that extends from the collar to underarm with a diagonal seam. Raglan sleeves give a casual feel to a garment, and are ideal to disguise broad or narrow shoulders.

It’s often used on sportswear and more relaxed clothing, such as T-shirts and sweatshirts but can also look stylish on blouses and dresses too.

The main benefit of a raglan sleeve is that it has a wider underarm area so it’s a comfortable style to wear underneath other layers. This sleeve type works for both men’s and women’s garments and for round and V-necks.

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Roscoe Blouse/Dress from True Bias

2. ONE-PIECE WITH DARTS This style features a dart from the neck to the shoulder, which can be adjusted to get a better fit. This one is usually used on woven fabrics.

RAGLAN SLEEVE TYPES

You may not know but there are actually three main types of raglan sleeve: 1. ONE-PIECE WITHOUT DARTS This type is usually found on T-shirts where the neckline is shaped by gathers

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3. A TWO-PIECE SLEEVE (FRONT AND BACK) This version has a seam running along the shoulder crown from the neck to the wrist, again it’s easier to make adjustments along a seam.

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TOP TIPS

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Unlike an inset sleeve, the seams on a raglan sleeve are slightly curved and are laid on as flat pieces making it an easier sleeve to sew. Here are a few tips to improve your raglan sleeve: • •

Cut the sleeve piece(s), and stay stitch the neckline and raglan seam lines.

Press all the pieces first before

sewing together.

Use a stretch or ballpoint needle with a narrow zigzag stitch, or if you prefer you can use an overlocker.

It’s easier to hem the sleeve before attaching and sewing the side seams together.

INSPIRATION FOR A RAGLAN SLEEVE

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Make the raglan sleeve in a different fabric - upgrade a basic t-shirt with a lace raglan sleeve.

Make in a different colour using the same fabric. Mix pattern and plain fabrics.

This makes the sleeves really stand out!

Showcase your sleeve with some contrasting topstitching!

Smooth SLEEVE A few sewing patterns to showcase your raglan sleeves!

The Rushcutter is beautifully designed and carefully drafted to include many interesting details including the raglan sleeve. This oversized knee-length; A-line dress has large side pockets and lovely bound neck, and is designed for woven fabrics. The pattern is available in 10 sizes (A-J, which equates to Australian sizes 6-24).

To find out more about this pattern from In the Folds – click here

This fitted men’s raglan tee can be made with short, three-quarter or long sleeves and a straight or curved hem. Choose knit fabrics with 40% stretch across the grain and in the length and for standout sleeves use a contrasting knit!

To view the Nico Raglan Tee from Jalie – click here

This jacket pattern is perfect for the weekends and features a zip-front and a secret hood hidden inside the wide collar! If you prefer you can skip the hood and let the dramatic collar be the focus.

These flattering raglan sleeves are comfortable and easy-to-sew and the elastic waistline creates a slim curve-hugging silhouette. The jacket is fully lined with interior patch pockets to stash your cards and keys safely and out of sight.

To find out more about the Minoru Jacket from Sewaholic – click here

Let’s Get Cozy & Joyful this Christmas Sarah Ashford, obsessive quilter and fabric lover chats about ways to use the new fabric collection from Art Gallery Fabrics

Let’s face it, Christmas this year is going to be like no other! So we need to do our very best to make it as cozy and joyful as possible and what better way to do it than to add a handmade touch to the proceedings. This gorgeous Cozy & Joyful fabric collection by Maureen Cracknell for Art Gallery Fabrics really is the perfect bundle for lots of Christmas projects. From quilts, stockings, place settings and tree decorations, there’s really no limit to the possibilities, and it’s a beautiful collection to celebrate the festive season.

white Christmas. I also love the fussy cutting potential of the Scandi-inspired reindeers – I’ve used them in the centre of my English Paper Pieced Christmas decoration as they make such a lovely feature print. The nutcracker print adds a vintage whimsical feel, and the lighter tone prints are really adorable. There are sweet gingerbread houses and candy canes, Christmas lights and twinkling stars designs. The bolder red and green plaid prints are beautifully offset by the pretty and delicate floral blooms. Then of course, there’s the gorgeous navy geometric metallic print – all Christmas collections need a bit of metallic and sparkle in my opinion! There really is something for everyone in this collection.

One thing I’m making a big effort to do this year is make fabric drawstring bags for my gifts, instead of using wrapping paper. I really do dislike putting all that

paper in landfill, and making fabric gift bags is a brilliant idea as they can be used year after year, and they will look so pretty under the tree! I’m thrilled with my patchwork bag using this fabric; the prints look fabulous all together. I really do encourage you to do the same and make some re-usable fabric bags, so that we can all tread a little lighter on the earth this year.

Collectively we can make a difference!

I know you’re going to love using this collection for your Christmas makes, as it’s so versatile. There’s nothing we need more right now than a distraction and a Christmas project or several! I hope it brings some much-needed festive cheer to your homes and families this year.

Let’s take a look at some of the prints in this collection. My favourite has to be the illustrative snowy scene print, which really captures the beauty and charm of a snowy,

Editor’s notes The comfort and warmth of family, a steaming mug of cocoa, and the soft twinkle of Christmas tree lights, Cozy & Joyful from Art Gallery Fabrics really celebrates these magical moments we love so much during the holidays.

To view the full range – click here

COZY & JOYFUL MAKES Cozy & Joyful is the perfect fabric collection for those traditional Christmas makes like stockings. Designed by Maureen Cracknell, this fabric line has all the elements you expect to find from holly, reindeer, nutcrackers and poinsettias!

To view more designs from this Art Gallery Fabric collection – click here

CHRISTMAS WEARABLES

These Christmas themed fabrics from Modelo are perfect for seasonal garments like the traditional Christmas jumper, sweatshirt and dresses. The Christmas Reindeer shown here in green, also comes in grey, and is made in brushed French terry and guarantees a warm seasonal hug! Or if you prefer to make a beautiful sweatshirt then this fabric with pugs on is for you!

To view Modelo’s festive fabrics – click here

CHRISTMAS

CHEER

Fabrics for all your winter festive projects!

MERRY & BRIGHT This is the first collective collection from Art Gallery Fabrics, and brings together holiday-inspired prints from some of the AGF designers including Amy Sinibaldi, Pat Bravo, Maureen Cracknell, Katarina Roccella and Bonnie Christine.

To view more of these lovely designs closer – click here

SNOW DAYS Step into a winter wonderland with Mister Domestic’s new collection, Snow Day. Reminisce on everything that makes a day like this truly special, from creating snowmen, getting into snowball fights, bundling up, and drinking hot cocoa. Some of the designs this grey-blue collection includes are Christmas calligraphy, jumpers and snowflakes!

To view this wintery collection from Art Gallery Fabrics – click here

A CONNECTION WITH YOUR CLOTHES

We talk to Meg McElwee from Sew Liberated about why sewing is more than just making clothes for her Sew Liberated was one of the first indie sewing pattern companies, and evolved to focus on slow fashion. Where do your beliefs come from?

I started designing sewing patterns while I was living in rural Northern Mexico as a Montessori teacher in a one-room schoolhouse. The nearest clothing shop was three hours away, which prompted me to get into sewing in a serious way.

In addition to sewing my own clothes, I hand washed them in a tub (and often didn’t have warm water). These palpable, daily rituals of caring for my clothing in Mexico made me feel so much more

born with a serious heart defect that required three open-heart surgeries over the course of three years, I put most of my sewing practice (and Sew Liberated) on ice.

When my son (now a healthy 9 year-old) finally recovered and I could begin the process of healing from all of that medical and emotional trauma, and sewing was a part of that!

I came back into the sewing scene, and instead of Mentoring women to look at the slower-paced blogging their sewing, as a practice of community, I found the self-care is important to you. faster-paced Instagram with Tell us a little about this and all of its hashtags. The one I couldn’t really stomach the ideas behind it? was #selfishsewing, so When my middle son was connected to my clothes. I didn’t wear things once then toss them in the wash basket – I’d wear for several days in a row, and always mended what needed mending.

Sew Liberated grew out of these beliefs in the value of connection with your clothes on a mundane level, and has expanded to embrace the broader slow fashion movement and climate activism.

I started a different one, #sewingisselfcare. For me, the practice of sewing for yourself - an act of love for the body you have right now, not the body you want in the future or the body you had in the past - is such a profound and healing act.

In your opinion what should a sustainable wardrobe contain?

I don’t have a goal of having a completely handmade wardrobe, and I will always champion having a mostly second-hand wardrobe that also includes a number of handmade pieces. These handmade pieces should

be treasures, sewn with beautiful, biodegradable fabrics with careful attention to fit and beautiful seam finishes.

Mending garments is a big trend at the moment – how crucial do you think the mending movement is to becoming more sustainable?

I very much hope it isn’t a trend!

Mending is a necessary life skill that had been all but lost in a few short generations after the powers that focused on creating constant consumer demand and a ‘throw away’ culture. I highly recommend watching the now-classic short film, ‘The Story of Stuff’ to understand the impact of over-production and over-consumption.

Mending is the bedrock of an individual’s personal sustainable fashion practice. Sewing can be part of that, but mending what you already have should come first!

Sew Liberated releases new sewing patterns at a slower pace – is this a conscious decision on your part?

Yes. There are several reasons for this. The first is that we’re a very small company and we highly value a healthy work/life balance. We come out with patterns when we are able, on our timeframe, and it makes for a much more pleasant working experience. The second is, perhaps, more important: I don’t want people to feel pressured to ‘sew all the things’. I only want

to release patterns that will truly enhance people’s wardrobes. I reject the idea that we need to come out with seasonal collections like the fast fashion companies. This emphasis on ‘new-is-better’ is what I want to avoid.

What garment hangs in your closet that you have had a long time, and that you could never see yourself being without?

My black linen Hinterland Dress – I hacked to have a V-neck and have an elastic casing in the back. It’s such a versatile, classic piece, and it has seen me through a lot. It’s always the first thing I pack in my bag if I’m travelling, no matter the weather, as it stands beautifully on its own, and also layers nicely under other tops and sweaters.

Do you have any tips for those sewers that are new to sustainability?

Slow down and take a mindful moment to consider the provenance of your fabric, the plants that grew the fibres, the hands that wove it, and the journey it took to get into your hands.

Noticing and appreciating is the first step. Appreciate what you have, mend what you have, and sew with a view-point of gratitude and plenty rather than a mind-set of lack and acquisition.

To see more sewing patterns from Sew Liberated - click here

TRENDSETTER

3 jacket styles that you’ll wear all year round!

1. BLAZER

A classic tailored jacket with a semi-fitted shape will never go out of style. Jasika is a wardrobe workhorse and will also build up your sewing skills. Learn modern speed tailoring methods, how to apply fusible interfacings and a minimal amount of hand sewing to make tailoring accessible for all stitchers! Make it your own with pocket flaps, topstitching, decorative sleeve cuff buttons and leather elbow patches!

To find out more about the Jasika Blazer from Closet Core Patterns – click here

To view more Scuba fabrics from Modelo - click here

Pembroke Boucle from Modelo (claret) – click here

2. LONGLINE

Faux suede is a popular choice this season and it’s perfect for making stylish skirts and longer line jackets. Modelo do a wonderful printed scuba fabric that has a soft suede finish. We love this soft chamois-style black/ brown check print suede scuba – it would make a fabulous Chateau coat from The Sewing Workshop. This loose-fitting, open-front coat has dolman sleeves, front slit pockets, and can be made with raw edges.

To view the Chateau Coat Pattern from The Sewing Workshop – click here

3. TRENCH

The Trench is such a timeless coat, and if made in a neutral colour is the outerwear you’ll reach for time and time again! The Chilton Trench is a classic curve-friendly update. It’s fully lined coat pattern features a singlebreasted bodice, two hem lengths, belted waist, kick pleat option and sleek princess seams! With added extras like a two-part collar, cape, epaulettes, and double topstitching, it will become a shining star in your wardrobe!

To view the Chilton Trench Coat Pattern By Cashmerette - click here

Lytham Green Raincoat Fabric from Modelo – click here

Check out the free-to-use resource listing of the very best Indie patterns and filter by fabric, garment, brand or skill level by visiting www.hantex.co.uk

SUSTAINABILITY Through Quality Paul Smith of Hantex, explains why spending more on fabric really can make a difference to the environment Everyone who sews his or her own clothes enjoys the finished garment but also the creative journey that got you there!

However, there’s an additional element that’s become increasingly important to sewers in recent years, and that’s the environmental impact of the products they sew with.

Perhaps our first thoughts when we consider the product’s environmental impact is; ‘Is the fabric organic?’ ‘Was it dyed with a non-harmful dye?’ ‘Did it travel far to get here?’ and ‘Can the packaging be recycled?’ Every one of these questions is valid, and by sourcing our sewing materials with these things in mind, we subconsciously put pressure on retailers to stock the products that meet our environmental credentials - and that’s a good thing! Why? This is because retailers will then demand those products from wholesalers, who in turn influence manufacturers.

IS IT WORKING?

Well actually yes it is! I’ve worked in the sewing industry, specifically in product distribution for a considerable number of years, and in the last few years, demand for organic fabrics, OEKO-TEX certified fabrics, as well as other items such as organic thread has increased phenomenally.

Sewing consumers are making a difference and demanding that the environmental bar is raised.

CAN MORE BE DONE?

Most certainly, not least by focusing on the quantity and type of packaging materials we use, but there’s actually something you as a sewer can do right away to make a difference! By choosing to make your own clothes you’re investing in a unique wearable. Making your own garments can offer you hundreds of combinations of fabric and pattern.

Whatever environmental criteria you demand, perhaps the biggest and most significant benefit is simply making that one-of-a-kind garment last and that’s where selecting a quality fabric that stands the test of time pays dividends.

Increasingly people who sew their own

Boho dress made in Fusions by Art Gallery Fabrics

clothes are returning to the concept of fewer, higher quality, everyday pieces that can form the core of their wardrobe, and at the same time last longer and in doing so be environmentally positive!

Perhaps jersey knits are one of the best examples of this idea. Not all knits are born equal, and it’s frustratingly too late when you find that after two washes, your garment has a distinctly worn and tired look, which you toiled over for so long. We

all know where this item will end up and that’s not good for the environment!

So when it seems like it’s tough to make a difference – just remember it’s the small things that count, like choosing a quality fabric that will live on and on when other fabrics are past their best.

ENJOY SUSTAINABLE SEWING THIS WINTER!

New Patterns From

The New Yanaka Jacket By Liesl + Co Distributed Exclusively in the UK by Hantex Ltd

Liesl + Co

Use Pattern Finder to search for your next dressmaking project.

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