Modern Sewing Starts Here Edition 25

www.hantex.co.uk/patternfinder

Jack Frost is certainly nipping at our nose! With the cost of living rising, it’s time to think warm fabrics and cosy clothing, soft furnishings and accessories!

It may be a time-old fabric but flannel is the new favourite that’s perfect for keeping you warm in winter and ideal for making pyjamas, jackets, scarves, slippers, soft furnishings, accessories and items for babies. It now comes in amazing designs and two brands are bringing us quality flannels that you will definitely want to sew this winter. In this edition, Julie Bonnar shares her tips on working with this type of fabric so you get the best results!

Have you heard about English Paper Piecing? This patchwork method is over 300 years old and uses paper templates – it’s a great way to make quilts that you can pick up and down when you want some ‘me-time’! Jess Finn

from Paper Pieces shares why everyone is talking about it. Fancy trying EPP out then Jess has a great little easy winter project in this issue too?

We also have some of the best pyjama patterns on the market for you to choose from and Jacqui Smith has been sewing up her own pyjama set and dressing gown.

Happy sewing!

www.hantex.co.uk www.modernsewingstartshere.co.uk Subscribe free to get your copy – click here

Liesl + Co

There are three lovely new patterns that you will want to add to your wardrobe: The Garibaldi A-Line Skirt is a classic skirt with an invisible zipper at the side seam and three different hem lengths. You can sew this skirt with or without a waistband and angled front pockets. The pattern works best with light to medium-weight woven fabrics like cotton poplin, broadcloth, linen, rayon, wool suiting, satin, and crepe. The pattern comes in sizes 0-20. The Peckham Women’s Trousers are a timeless dressy pair of trouser that feel more like sweatpants. The pattern is designed for woven fabrics with some stretch, and includes a traditional zipper fly with zipper shield, angled front pockets with a concealed change pocket inside one of them, and elastic side panels for extra comfort. What’s special about this pattern is the inseam has been moved forward for a better fit to give you really comfortable and well-fitting trousers for every occasion. The pattern comes in sizes 0-20. The last but not least is the Strasbourg Henley Bodysuit + Top. This close-fitting pullover V-neck has three buttons at the front placket and is designed for knit fabrics with at least 25% stretch. Make with short sleeves with a cute little front pocket on a cropped top or long sleeves with a bodysuit style. The pattern comes in sizes XXS-XXL.

To find your nearest stockist of Liesl + Co – click here

Closet Core

Inspired by a genius songwriter with timeless style, the Mitchell Trousers are a modern twist on a classic pleated trouser. Elegant and comfortable but with very special details, they are destined to become your new favourite bottoms. These trousers have a high-waist with fly front zipper and a comfy hidden waistband facing for a sleek continuous silhouette. Choose between a hidden pants hook and bar or classic button closure and deep pleats in the front enclose a unique angled pocket. This pattern is ideal for sturdy woven fabrics like light to mid-weight denim, twill and canvas, linen, cotton, and wool suiting. The pattern comes in sizes 0-20.

To view this latest pattern and more from Closet Core - click here

Named

The relaxed but elegant Olo Tee and Pants Set consists of a long sleeve tee and wide leg pants with high, elasticated waist and no side seams. You can sew the straight cut tee as either a dainty rolled hem funnel neck or a deep V-neck with binding. The blouse hem, sleeves and leg openings can be finished with a rolled hem or a simple turn-up. This pattern comes in sizes XS-XXL.

To find your nearest stockist of Named Clothing – click here

www.hantex.co.uk

fabric, garment, brand

Sew House Seven

The Sauvie Sundress is the perfect strappy dress to reach for when you are wanting comfort, ease and style. It’s perfect for layering over a T-shirt as a pinafore when the temperatures drop. The low front, back V-necklines and narrow straps are designed to cover bra straps and optional bra keeper instructions are included to hide and secure your bra straps within the garment for that extra couture detail. With two different pocket options, three hem finishes, two waist finishes and two hem lengths, you can mix and match any of the version’s features. The pattern comes in sizes 00-20 and 16-34. To find your nearest stockist of Sew House Seven – click here

Cashmerette

The Meriam Trousers is a pair of woven trousers that you’ll actually enjoy wearing if you have curves! Classic trousers can be uncomfortable if your waist spreads when you sit down. This trouser pattern has all the classic details you love, such as a zip fly with a hidden closure, front slash pockets, straight legs, and optional back welt pockets. But best of all, it has an innovative flex waistband that will keep you comfortable while standing or sitting, without compromising on style! Make with standard and full bottom fit, this pattern comes in sizes 0-16 and 12-32.

To find your nearest stockist of Cashmerette –click here

Check out the free-to-use resource listing of the very best Indie patterns and filter by fabric, garment, brand or skill level by visiting www.hantex.co.uk

MAKE A SPLASH

Cloud9 Fabrics has a lovely collection of laminate fabric called Sweet Beauties. This collection has been designed by Alison Janssen and has a PU Coating that’s waterproof and can withstand the rain and any spillages that happen! It’s made from 100% organic cotton and comes in these five colourful prints. These are quite easy to sew with, and are ideal for lightweight raincoats, bags, coasters, table mats and other things that require a little waterproofing.

To view the full range of laminate fabrics – click here

FABRICS Focus on

We keep you up-to-date with this seasons’ popular fabrics

Love Birds

Wild Fields

Blue Hills

Green Arrow

Tart Days

SEASONAL COATS

Modelo’s Cairn collection of 100% boiled wool is perfect for making a lightweight jacket, coatigan or coat. It’s reversible so there’s no need for a lining and no need for any seam neatening either. Shown here are just some of the best-selling colours but with 19 to choose from, there’s bound to be one (or two) to make your perfect coat!

To see these and more coat fabrics - click here

Plaid of My Dreams

Gold

Snow

Download the free patternclick here

WARM & COSY

Flannel is a time-old favourite fabric for keeping you warm in winter and is perfect for making pyjamas, jackets, scarves, slippers, soft furnishings, accessories and items for babies. Flannel no longer just comes in a couple of colourways but includes solids and fun prints to brighten up the winter months.

Art Gallery Fabrics flannel is 100% cotton, OEKO-TEX certified, and double-brushed so it’s super soft on both sides and ideal for the colder seasons. Cloud9 also produces modern 100% certified organic cotton flannel in sweet designs and plain colours.

To take a look at all the full range of flannel fabrics – click here

Aqua

Olive Green

Plum

Rich Red

Chartreuse

Wandering with Bear by Bonnie Christine, AGF

by Maureen Cracknell, AGF

Retro Blue, AGF Studio, AGF

Trees, Winter Forest, Cloud9

Hares, Winter Forest, Cloud9

Baby Quilt made from Cloud9 Flannel

FLANNEL

Julie

Bonnar

from The Pattern Pages shares her tips for sewing with this staple winter fabric

What is flannel?

Flannel is a loosely woven fabric that has been brushed for softness. During the manufacture, a fine metal brush is used to raise some of the fibres to create a ‘nap’, which gives the fabric its fuzzy feel, which is warm and soft against the skin. Originally flannel was made of wool, but now cotton, along with synthetic blends are more common. The good news is that this is a fairly inexpensive fabric to buy.

Here are my top tips for choosing and sewing with this winter fabric:

Quality

Like most fabrics, using a better quality of flannel makes a big difference when sewing! The more expensive the flannel, the higher the thread count. Often it’s double-sided and this seems to last longer and pill less. It also tends to fray and shrink less too, and feels denser. The lower thread count flannels can stretch and distort, and also not wear very well.

Prewash, Dry and Press

Always pre-wash. This might not be as important for smaller projects but for making garments it is essential. Pre-wash on a delicate cycle, using a low temperature – this will help prevent pilling and keep shrinkage down. If tumble drying – use a sensitive cycle and this will keep your flannel fabrics fluffy and press lightly with a medium heat.

Cutting

Some sewers spray starch on the wrong side of the fabric. To make it easier to cut, place right sides together, the nap tends to grip the fabric and stop it slipping around.

Make sewing with flannel easy:

Needle – This fabric is thick so use a 80/14, 90/14 or a jeans needle to cope with layers.

Thread – Choose an allpurpose polyester thread like Scanfil.

Stitch length – Use a longer stitch length of 3-3.5.

Seam Allowance – Use a wider seam allowance of 1.3cm (½in) to accommodate for any fraying.

Presser foot – A walking foot is ideal for sewing flannel so the layers don’t shift around.

Special finishes –Avoid the fabric from unravelling by finishing the raw edges with a wide zigzag or using an overlocker. Fray check or pinking shears can also be used.

Tip: As this fabric has a loose weave, there will a build up of lint on the needle and throat plate

known as ‘shedding’. It’s important to clean this away from your bobbin, the

and after sewing with flannel.

– this is

bobbin case, and around the needle during

Flannel Scarf

made using Wandering with Bear by Bonnie Christine, AGF

Sleep tight

Designed for chic lounging, these pyjamas are thoughtfully tailored and super comfortable.The top has a classic notched collar, curved hem and breast pocket with three sleeve styles to choose from. For a matching pyjama set, sew a straightlegged trouser (with or without cuff) or a cuffed pair of shorts. Both designs have an elasticised waist, pockets and a faux fly. Why not personalise yours by adding contrasting piping details for an elegant finish. This pattern is available in sizes 0-20 and 14-32.

To view the full pattern range from Closet Core –click here

These straight leg pants are comfortable but not baggy, and feature an enclosed elastic waistband with drawstring option to further perfect the fit. Pyjama bottoms needn’t be boring to sew and this pattern will teach you many of the essential techniques for sewing jeans and trousers for future projects. Learn to install useful pockets and employ topstitching to create very functional and hardwearing loungewear. The pattern comes in a wide range of sizes XS-4XL.

Eastwood Pajamas

To view the full pattern range from Thread Theory Designs – click here

Stylish sleepwear patterns to keep you warm and cosy this winter!

Carolyn Pajamas

Cover up

This dressing gown is a casually straight-cut unisex garment and its name comes from the Finnish word ‘lahja’ meaning ‘gift’. And as the name suggests, these dressing gowns are a great gift either for your friend or yourself! Make either the shorter knee-length gown with cropped sleeves, or the longer version that extends to mid-leg and has full-length sleeves. Both options have large patch pockets and a belt fastening. This pattern comes in sizes XS-XXL.

Lahja Dressing Gown

To find more patterns from Named Clothing - click here

This simple pair of pyjamas are perfect for everyone and features an elastic and pull string in the waist casing. They don’t have a side seam, making them super comfortable for sleeping, and a very fast sewing project. There are several lengths and this pattern comes in sizes A-I.

Unisex PJs Pants

For more sewing patterns from Wardrobe By Me – click here

Look out for other sewing patterns that although are not designed as nightwear can easily be sewn to wear in bed or on the sofa!

MAKING THE

Olo Tee & Pants and Lahja Dressing Gown from Named Clothing!

By Jacqui Smith

It’s definitely the time of year for snuggling down in comfy PJ’s and a warm dressing gown. The new Olo pattern from Named Clothing is the perfect set of PJ’s or even loungewear for the cold season, and paired with the Lahja robe in warm flannel, they complement each other superbly

My fabric choice

“What fabric do I use” I asked myself. Yes, I want warmth, but equally this pattern cries out for a fabric which has drape and stretch as well! Oh, and it needs to look great after frequent washes. Having worked with Art Gallery Fabrics’ knit before I thought it was actually the perfect choice, being super quality, having stretch and also great washability.

I opted for the solid colourway called Mauvelous, which has a subtle mauve hue, which I loved. As always, I pre-washed the fabric just in case there was any shrinkage and I would always recommend this.

To complement this set, I made the Lahja robe in Art Gallery Fabrics’ cotton flannel, choosing the Gaia Four print from Eclectic Intuition, by Katarina Roccella. This is a lovely soft, double sided flannel and if you’ve ever sewn with AGF flannel you’ll know exactly what I mean … such a luxurious feel! As with the knit, I pre-washed and tumble dried the flannel, to ensure no shrinkage and give a little ‘fluff’ to the flannel.

My pattern choice

PJ’s are super popular this year, not least because you get to wear them as soon as you’ve finished the make. Not all PJ’s are straightforward to make, but the Olo set is quick and easy so if you’re looking to hand make that last minute gift for Christmas, these could be the perfect choice!

The whole set is made up of just five pattern pieces! If you have an overlocker you can whip these up in a couple of hours. I chose the high neck version and I used my overlocker to do roll hems on the neck, sleeves and bottoms of both the top and trousers. This gives a really lovely finish and you could use matching or contrasting thread for different effects. Perhaps the only minor downside of doing this is that you do the hems before you construct the garment, which means that you need to work out the length you want, before you make them up.

I found that I needed to shorten the trousers and top, so always check the finished measurements on the pattern. The

EDITORS NOTES

THE PATTERN:

The relaxed and elegant Olo Tee & Pants pattern is from Named Clothing and consists of a long sleeve tee and wide leg pants with high, elasticated waist and no side seams. You can sew the straight cut tee as either a dainty rolled hem funnel neck, or a deep V-neck with binding. The pattern comes in sizes XS-XXL.

To view these patterns and others from Named Clothing – click here

Solids by AGF Studio

trousers are fairly fitted around the waist and hips, but I found this really comfortable, particularly in this fabric. If you do not have an overlocker it would still be a very quick make, you would just need to do turned hems. The instructions for both are included in the pattern.

Like the Olo set, the Lahja Robe is a fairly quick make. I used the shorter version of the robe, but with the long sleeves and just lengthened the robe a little. I wanted a long robe, but on checking the finished measurements found the long version would have been close to floor length for me, so it was better to just lengthen the short one a little. Flannel sews beautifully, as it does not move around at all, the flip-side to this is that you have to be careful to ensure that everything lines up perfectly before sewing, as it’s hard to adjust as you go.

Summary

Both of these sewing patterns are ones that you are likely to make over and over again. As they are both multi-size (and in the case of the Lahja, unisex as well) you can make them for all the family. Multiple variations are available, giving you a wide choice of garments to make. I certainly enjoyed working with both the patterns and fabrics and was delighted with the results.

THE FABRIC:

For the Olo, choose light to medium-weight knit fabric with 40-50% stretch and for the Lahja Dressing Gown select a light to mediumweight woven fabric like linen, flannel, Terry cloth or honeycomb fabric.

For the full range of knit fabrics from Art Gallery Fabrics – click here

To view the flannel collections from Art Gallery Fabrics – click here

Mauvelous from Knits

Gaia Four Print Flannel from Eclectic Intuition by Katarina Roccella, AGF

Why everyone is talking about English Paper Piecing!

By Jess Finn of Paper Pieces

In my 10 years of experience at Paper Pieces, I’ve found there are two types of quilters out there! One just read this title and thought, “Yes! Bring on the hexies!” and the other just thought, Ew! Handwork!”

If you already love English Paper Piecing, keep reading. I’ve got some tips and tricks below to ensure that you’re getting the most out of your sewing time. If you think handwork is a 4-letter word, just hear me out.

What exactly is English Paper Piecing (EPP)?

EPP is a 300+ year-old method of hand piecing using paper templates to stabilise fabric. It’s sometimes called Mosaic Piecing, and while it originated in England, it spread around the world as a popular and necessary craft.

Ok, so clearly I’m biased, but really, after reading this list, don’t you think you should give EPP a try? Sitting on the couch mindlessly scrolling your social media? Nope, grab your project! Sitting in a waiting room or school pick-up line? Finish that next block! Road tripping or camping? Great, get your baste on!

The concept of EPP is simple

Cut, baste and stitch! Once you’ve mastered the basic steps, you can apply them to any shape or pattern! Here are three tricks that I’ve learned along the way that make the process easier:

Prepare

Starting a new project? Yay! Take advantage of that new fabric buzz. Cut your fabric, sort your pieces and get your blocks separated.

Find a project bag or pouch (my favourite is Yazzii bags!) and fill it with a block or two, your glue pen, scissors, needles and thread. Be prepared to sew anywhere. You won’t regret it!

Consistency in basting

When you graduate from making hexies, you may find yourself working with shapes that have points like diamonds! With diamonds, your fabric will fold over and create, what I like to call ‘dog ears’. If you put in a little effort to baste the same direction will all your pieces (i.e.) clockwise, you’ll find that when you sew your pieces together, your ‘dog ears’ will nest, reducing bulk!

Your tools matter

Do you know what the best notions for English Paper Piecing are? It’s a trick question and there is no right answer! The key is figuring out what works best for you!

• Find the needle that makes your fingers happiest, and your stitches beautiful.

TIP: Just remember that a good handsewing needle is good for about 11 hours of sewing! Grabbing a fresh needle will make a world of difference to your hands!

• Find a thimble that eases your pain and fits your finger.

• Find glue that’s sustainable for your budget.

No matter where you are on your English Paper Piecing journey, I hope you enjoy the process!

Visit my website, www.PaperPieces.com and dive right into your project!

Cutting Constructions:

Tree Tops: From 3 of the Green Fat-eigths – Cut 18 x Piece A Isosceles Triangles.

Tree Trunks: From the Brown Fat-eigth – Cut 2 x 1¾in x WOF strips, then sub-cut into 18 x 1¾in Squares.

White Background: Cut 4 x 1¾in x WOF strips. Sub-cut 2 strips into 36 x 1¾in Squares and sub-cut the other 2 strips into 18 x 1¾in x 3¾in Rectangles. Cut 2 x 4-½in x WOF strips, and then sub-cut into 18 x 3 ¼in x 4½in Rectangles. Using your Paper Piece as a guide – cut Rectangles once on the diagonal to make 18 x Right Triangles and 18 x Reversed Right Triangles, as shown in Fig. 1.

Binding: Cut 4 x 2in x WOF strips and join end-to-end.

Backing: 1/2yd 18in x 33in

Batting: 18in x 33in

Assembly Constructions:

1. Baste all paper pieces according to the basic instructions. For the Right Triangle and Reversed Right Triangle – baste the two outside edges first, followed by the long, diagonal edge to reduce bulk when the pieces are joined together.

2. Join together 2 x white Squares with 1 x brown Square to make a tree trunk unit, as shown in Fig. 2, and make 18 in total.

3. Join together the green Isosceles Triangle with a white Right Triangle and a white Reversed Right Triangle, then a tree trunk unit, as shown in Fig. 3. Make a total of (18) assorted tree blocks.

Fig. 4

5. Join the tree block units together to make two rows shown here in Fig. 5.

Fig. 3

Fig. 2

4. Lay out the tree blocks in two rows of nine blocks. Join a white Rectangle to the top of 9 Tree Blocks and to the bottom of 9 Tree Blocks.

Fig. 1 Fig. 5 Fig. 6

6. Join the rows together to complete the quilt top shown here in Fig. 6.

7. Press quilt top and remove all the paper pieces. Open the seam allowance towards the outside edge.

8. Layer quilt top, batting, and backing. Quilt and bind using your preferred method.

Jess Finn loved English Paper Piecing so much that she started her own business, www.PaperPieces.com, and is now at the centre of putting piecing (EPP) on the map once again. Her paper pieces are cut with precise point-to-point measurements, so that your quilt tops will be pieced with accuracy and perfection!

TRENDSETTER

Make your own Ugg-style booties or cosy slippers with this perfect giftmaking pattern!

Make your own slippers for going from and to the spa, around the house or even to keep your feet warm while camping! We love the mid-calf Ugg-style booties but the pattern also includes a reversible slipper that has a rib knit heel piece for a better fit. Wear and feel like you’re walking on clouds! Both views are insulated with batting for comfort and warmth, and there’s a shoe bag roomy enough for booties or carrying slippers for the whole family!

LAST MINUTEstocking fillers

OH SEW! MINI STASH ’N STORE

This mini pocket-sized organiser is the perfect size for even the smallest of sewing spaces. The silicone pockets offer a sturdy grip on sewing notions, marking tools, small scissors and rulers, and it’s available in lots of colours! To find more handy storage items - click here

MEASURE UP MULTI TOOL

Made in Australia from premium bamboo, this tool from Sew To Grow has both imperial and metric measurements. Use it as a needle position guide, seam gauge, straight edge, mark hems, press with it and use as a quick reference guide. To see all measuring items –click here

SELF MEASURING TAPE

VARIO-PLIERS

This multi-tool attaches press fasteners, eyelets, jeans buttons and rivets easily! Use the piercing tool to pierce holes of 3mm and 4mm with even pressure, and apply the Colour Snaps. To view this handy tool – click here

QUILTING CLIPS

These Klipit quilting clips are a fantastic alternative to pins and ideal for holding fabric in place while you sew and prevent you from getting pin sticks. Choose from two sizes – small and large. To find more about these clips - click here

EMBROIDERY IRON ON TRANSFERS

These sets give stitchers a little taster of embroidery and how you can use it to decorate your clothing. Each set has eight sheets of transfers plus a copy of The Little Book of Basic Embroidery. The designs work well as small projects or combined to create larger pieces. To view all the embroidery packs from Alison Glass - click here

It can be tricky to measure yourself accurately at home when no one else is around but this versatile tape measure simply wraps around your body. Simply lock in place and push the button to retract and contour to the shape of your body. Then look in the mirror with hands free! To find more measuring tools – click here

New fabrics for this season

Constantly reinventing the boho style, Maureen Cracknell invites you on a magical journey through creative illustrations of majestic creatures, hand-drawn florals and glistening colours... Crafting Magic is now available from stockists …. Click here for details

New fabrics for this season

Enter Katarina Roccella's point of view as an artist, where her prints are dynamic, beautifully abstract, and have an undeniable edge that carries a sense of exotic charm. Eclectic Intuition is now available from stockists …. Click here for details

New fabrics for this season

Bold colours, painterly florals and everything you love about Bari J's maximalist style is now in one collection that will take you back to a period in time where poise and elegance were at their peak. Garden Of Opulence is now available from stockists …. Click here for details

New fabrics for this season

Embrace the quirky side of life with Jessica Swift's prints that are filled with her signature folk motifs, uplifting bright colours and mystical critters.. Path To Discovery is now available from stockists …. Click here for details

New fabrics for this season

Always coming back to her roots, leave it to Bonnie Christine to ignite our curiosity of what nature has to offer with organic and romantic prints that cherish the simpler things in life. Roots Of Nature is now available from stockists …. Click here for details

Style Arc’s Logan Shacket made with AGF’s superb flannel fabric

The Logan is an oversized, shirt-style jacket featured here in the softest, cosiest flannel imaginable! Made to the highest standards, AGF flannel is 100% cotton double brushed, meaning it’s super soft on both sides. Wonderfully warm in the colder months ~ great for PJ's, shirts, quilts.

www.hantexonline.co.uk/flannel www.hantexonline.co.uk/logan

Find the fabric for your next project StyleArc & Art Gallery Fabrics are distributed in the UK by Hantex Ltd