Modern Sewing Starts Here Issue 8

Edition 8 – January 2020

Modern sewing starts here...

SPRING REFRESH

key trends for this season to top up your handmade wardrobe

FEAST YOUR

EYES on the latest fabric releases!

The latest sewing patterns that you’ll want to sew!

Sew &

Nurture

We talk to Heather Lou from Closet Case who blends her love of sewing, learning and the community

New Pure Solid Fabrics from Art Gallery Fabrics

www.modernsewingstartshere.co.uk

www.hantex.co.uk

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Are you a pattern designer looking to make the leap to printed patterns from PDF? Printed patterns have a much wider appeal than PDF, but you're probably thinking "how do I get the printing done and who'll distribute my patterns?"

At Hantex we've 25 years experience wholesaling patterns. We can assist you with design, print and wholesale distribution in the UK, EU and USA. Visit www.hantex.eo.uk/patternprinting to find out more

Editor’s Letter

Hello

A belated happy New Year to you all! If you have the January blues then having a read through this edition of Modern Sewing Starts Here will be sure to kick-start your sewing.

This edition, we’re delighted to chat with Heather Lou about her sewing pattern brand, Closet Case Patterns. With spring on its way, we look at three key trends to sew, and Rachel Pinheiro discusses how she will be adding candy shades to her handmade wardrobe this season.

Be inspired by Sarah Ashford as she shares ideas for using the new Pure Solids Fabric Bundles from Art Gallery Fabrics. Also WIN we catch up with the latest sewing pattern releases.

We hav WIN WIN! e dressfor one Prymdon na m to giv eaway. It available ’s in four sizes. Fo r a chan different c click he e to win – r e Closing 28th Fe date is bruary 2 020 Hantex team www.hantex.co.uk www.modernsewingstartshere.co.uk Subscribe free to get your copy – click here

Happy stitching!

AN EXTRA PAIR OF HANDS! Whether you’re a professional tailor or sew for a hobby, the Prymadonna dressform can offer more flexibility when it comes to making adjustments to your clothing.

It consists of eight parts and can be individually adjusted at the neck, bust, waistline and hips with 13 adjustments in total. The rotatable body is made of plastic and covered with a foam-reinforced nylon cover.

Adjustments can be made in both inches and centimetres using the knobs on the front, and the adjustment wheels on the sides and rear. The waist length’s height can also be adjusted and the neck

circumference can be changed using the knob placed in the middle of the neck area - this also contains an integrated pincushion. This dressform range has an elaborated shoulder section that ensures that the sleeves always fall in the right position.

You can mark your perfect hem length and the lightweight plastic pedestal nad four feet give it a really stable base.There are four sizes to choose from xs, s, m and l.

To view the complete Prymadonna range of dressforms – click here

#modernsewingstartshere

Stitch up a spectrum

OF COLOUR

Sarah Ashford, obsessive quilter and fabric lover shares her ideas for using the latest Pure Solids Bundles from Art Gallery Fabrics

Ideas for makes

If there’s one thing that gets a quilter’s heart racing it’s the sight of a fat quarter bundle, especially if it’s a fat quarter bundle that’s packed with gorgeous ombre shades across a spectrum of colours.

Introducing Art Gallery Fabric’s Pure Solids bundle – the Summering Edition. It’s made up of no less than 25 beautiful fat quarters – be still my beating heart!

The possibilities with 25 shades are literally endless.

I think they lend themselves extraordinarily well to traditional quilt blocks, as they put a wonderfully modern spin on blocks that are steeped in history and of a time gone by. I’ve had fun making the classic pineapple block, incorporating ten of the colours, and doesn’t it look striking? A block like this is just so well suited to bold, solid blocks of colour. I also think the humble hexagon

is a thing of beauty, and I’ll never tire of making them!

Appliqué them to zipper pouches, cushions, table runners, or why not stitch them all together to make a wonderful ombre quilt.

You really can have so much fun with light and shade with this fabric collection. I’ve also made some foundation paper pieced heart blocks that would look wonderful incorporated into a project; perhaps for coasters, placemats, a cushion or for the more ambitious a whole quilt. There’s pretty much a 50/50 split of warm and cool tones in this collection, so you could mix them up, or stick with the cool blues and deep shades of turquoise

together. Or why not use the warm, candy shades together for a pretty, pinktastic project!

For both quilters and dressmakers though, it’s not just about the colour but also the feel of the fabrics. The Pure Solids have a beautiful drape and suppleness. Being 100% premium cotton, they have a high quality, luxurious feel. It really has been a joy to stitch with them and I know you’re going to love stitching with them too.

Editor’s notes To view the complete collection of Pure Solids from Art Gallery Fabrics – click here

and nurture

Heather Lou blends her love of sewing, learning and the community

What inspired you to start Closet Case Patterns?

I didn’t know I was starting a brand when I released our first pattern (the Bombshell swimsuit back in 2013). It was very much one step at a time until I realised that what I was doing was sustainable enough to support myself (and eventually a small but mighty team too!)

What motivates me is creating unique, interesting designs that help facilitate learning and skill development. We want sewers to be excited by a pattern and learn new things while making it. Being a part of that empowering journey is why I get up in the morning!

What would you say sets your patterns apart from other indie designers?

First and foremost is our effort to really nurture and encourage building your sewing skills. Most of our patterns are at the intermediate or advanced level, and we offer loads of resources to help people on their way, be it through online workshops, sewalongs or sewing tutorials.

While I love a quick sew as much as the next person (that’s partly why we designed our beginner-friendly Rome Collection!). I think the real fun happens when you can really

sink your teeth into a project and learn something new.

I think we also stand out because of our focus on interesting details and construction methods. We’re always trying to find the best, most fun way to put something together.

You’ve always released patterns individually – what made you decide to launch your first pattern collection?

I had a strong idea for a small pattern collection that could work as a capsule wardrobe, and I was excited to think about our patterns from a

The online sewing world really feels like a safe, welcoming place in the black hole that is often the internet! Sewing people are the best people ever! First and foremost. Closet Case aims to nurture and encourage building your sewing skills. I think we also stand out because of our focus on interesting details and construction methods. We’re always trying to find the best, most fun way to put something together!

The Ginger Jeans pattern is probably one of the best-known jeans pattern around. Why do you think sewists love it so much?

I think it works because it seems to fit a lot of folks right out of the package.

Over the years, we’ve also created so much supportive content for Ginger, from a sewalong to a jean making ebook to an online course I think customers feel really supported and encouraged making it. I’m proud of how

more conceptual, thematic place. The Rome collection was such a success, and we’ll likely continue to do it yearly, with stand-alone patterns still released on a regular basis.

Tell us about your newest sewing pattern, the Sienna Jacket?

This is one of my favourite patterns ever! It’s inspired by vintage French workwear and is meant to work as a studio jacket with lots of pockets for maker tools, or as a cute wrap or chore jacket out in the world. It’s a really creative with a unique design, and the first available in our new extended 14-30 range. I can’t wait to see how people make it their own since there

are so many options for personalising it.

What do you most like about being part of the sewing community?

The sewing community itself!

I’ve been blogging about sewing for more than eight years, and it never ceases to amaze me how kind, supportive and smart sewists are!

I have met some of my best friends through sewing, even people who are technically my competitors!

The online sewing world really feels like a safe, welcoming place in the black hole that is often the internet!

Sewing people are the best people ever!

we demystified ‘scary’ jean making for so many people!

What pattern plans do you have for next year?

We had so much fun putting together our Rome collection that we’re planning another one in the coming year. It’s still in concept mode but we’re getting excited about it.

We’ll also be releasing a few new standalone patterns, in addition to getting as many older sewing patterns into extended sizing as possible.

It’s going to be a busy year!

New sewing pattern releases that you’ll want to sew!

LIESL & CO Shirt-style

The Camp features a classic convertiblecollar blouse and dress with a yoke and optional pockets. The blouse consists of a curved hem and long sleeves with a button cuff and tower placket, while the dress features a curvy hem and cuffed short sleeves. The pattern also includes separate pieces for A/B, C, and D cup sizes to help you get the perfect fit.

To find out the new patterns from Liesl & Co – click here

CASHMERETTE Date night

Embrace your romantic side with the Alcott Dress! This dreamy fixed wrap dress features an empire waist and two design variations.

Choose a knee-length full skirt, cap or elbowlength flutter sleeves, and optional maternityfriendly silhouette, or opt for the drama of a ruffled midi skirt and long, ruffled sleeves.

To view more patterns from Cashmerette – click here

FRIDAY PATTERN COMPANY Nice day for knits

The Westcliff Dress is an easy to sew dress for knit fabrics with at least 25% stretch. It features a wrap front with full coverage and a neckline that won’t gape! There is an optional lower tier to make this dress a maxi.

The pattern also includes a tutorial on how to turn this dress into a cute cropped top. The pattern includes sizes XS-4X and cup size options B and D. To find out more about this pattern and others from the Friday Pattern Company – click here

SEW TO GROW Sew, repeat and reverse!

Wrap up in the Alston Jacket as the chill sets into the air. This oversized jacket with raglan sleeves and stylish cascading collar is perfect for layering over your winter woollies. Make as a reversible jacket in linen or vintage broadcloth for a substantial layering piece or go with a single layer boiled wool for a truly classic piece.

Sweeping silhouette

The Frankie Shift pairs perfectly with a soft drapey fabric like rayon, or for a more casual and carefree look make in linen. This dress features clever side panel pockets, optional tie belt, and can be made with flutter sleeves or a sleeveless version.

The Bondi has more to offer!

The Bondi Top is one of Sew to Grow’s best-selling patterns and a wardrobe staple. The basic Bondi has been given a total revamp, and you now have more options to give this pattern a new leash of life! In the new extension pack there’s instructions to attach sleeves, lengthen your top into a dress or tunic, add a casing and pockets!

To view these three new sewing patterns and more from Sew to Grow – click here

The Sewing Workshop

Comfortable and easy to sew Biker-style

The Brando jacket is a semi-fitted moto jacket with princess seams, inset pockets and notched collar. It’s fully lined and perfect for making with heavy to medium weight fabrics.

The hip-length Hugo is a quick to sew top that has a neat front pleat and hidden button placket and stylish sleeve bands.

To view the complete sewing pattern range from The Sewing Workshop – click here

Check out the free-to-use resource listing of the very best Indie patterns and filter by fabric, garment, brand or skill level by visiting www.hantex.co.uk

FUNKY FLEECE

Modelo has just brought out a lovely super soft Alpen fleece fabric. It’s made from polyester, and cotton with a touch of Elastane for stretch. This fleece fabric is a little special as it features a delicate foil printed star or heart design heart on one side and a soft snuggly lining on the other.

It comes in four colour ways – The star fleece comes in grey and cream and the hearts in cream and pink. It’s perfect for making warm and cosy jackets,pyjamas and onesies!

To view the complete collection of Foil Printed Fleece Fabric – click here

Focus on

FABRICS Cherry, Round Elements

Feast your eyes on the latest beautiful fabric collections Gold, Lace Elements Cobaltic, floral Element

Pomelo, Oval Elements

Moss, Nature Elements

BOUCLE-STYLE

Apricot Sunstone, Prisma Elements

Noir, Squared Elements

Are you thinking about making a coat? This versatile double-sided wool-style coat fabric is one of the newest fabrics from Modelo! It’s polyester/viscose blend makes it machine washable, very practical and also good value. It’s long-lasting, which coupled with the fact that we treasure the garments we make means less environmental impact. This coat fabric comes in 19 different colours so there is bound to be one for you!

To view the full range of colours available – click here

CABLE JACQUARD

Modelo has just released a stunning knitted cable jersey fabric that’s extremely stretchy. It comes in a lovely range of colours including oatmeal, black, grey, claret, grape, mauve, denim, olive, lime and aqua. It is perfect for making the latest knit dresses as well as coatigans, sweaters, jumpers and scarves.

To view the full range of colours available – click here

THE PERFECT MATCH

Art Gallery Fabrics’ ranges of 100% poplin cotton solids and blenders are stunning. With pure colour, softness and beauty, the Elements ranges are now available in co-ordinated bundles.

The purest hues now meet Art Gallery Fabrics’ soft hand, superior quality and has the lowest shrinkage rate. Ranging in a vibrant assortment of colours, the new improved dip-dye technique lead to the most brilliant colours ever, and are Oeko-Tex certified, so the dyes are the most environmentally safe to use. They almost don’t fray, making them ideal for all kind of sewing projects.

The collections include: Round Elements – a perfect match for other Art Gallery Fabrics’ collections, adding simplicity and elegance with curated colours that we all love.

Prisma – mix, match and mismatch with every stash there is! The classic geometric form and colours become one with surrounding prints, these are the new go-to blenders for harmonious creations.

Squared – a fun graphic blender in yummy hues that are ideal for modern sewing and quilting projects!

Nature Elements – a blender with a fresh and modern approach. An easy flowing design that’s suitable to be used with most fabric collections!

Floral Elements – a line of blenders with a fresh attitude!

This pretty design has a large-scale floral motif with vivid hues in several shades.

Oval Elements – a modern blender with lovely tones for lots of quilting and sewing project.

To view more from the Pure Solid and Elements collections – click here

Cloud9 Fabrics use only 100% organic cotton in the manufacturing of its base cloths and eco-responsible low impact dyes for printing and dying. They work closely with mills that are committed to ethical and responsible conduct.

Here are some of the latest collections

GOOD VIBRATIONS

This organic quilters cotton has a real ‘70s feel, and features some cute retro designs and colours.

Designed by Elizabeth Olwen, a Canadian print and pattern designer has used her work on several fabric ranges from Cloud9 and prides herself on creating highly considered patterns and illustrations that are lovingly assembled.

To find out more about the Good Vibration fabric collection – click here Ava ilabl e Jan 202 0

Available Mar 2020

LISBON SQUARE

This fabric range has been designed by Heather Moore, aka Skinny laMinx. Heather’s simple, clean pattern designs have an unusual colour palette and inspired by everyday things, her love of mid-century style and a dose of African chic!

To find out more about this collection – click here

Available Feb 2020

WILDFLOWER

The beautiful Wildflower collection has been designed by surface pattern designer, Cassidy Demkov for Cloud9.

This cotton sateen fabric features intricate floral patterns, lovely art illustrations inspired by her love of travelling, flowers, animals and vintage things.

To view more designs from the Wildflower collection – click here

Support your

SEWING

Julie Bonnar shares her simple guide to choosing interfacing

There are hundreds of interfacings out there, and it can be confusing choosing the right one for your sewing project.

What is interfacing?

Interfacing is an inner fabric that’s used in construction, and lays between the fabric layers to give it extra shape, support and strength.

Where to use interfacing?

Interfacing can be used in waistbands, collars, necklines and anywhere that needs additional support on garments. It’s also used for home décor projects, hats and bag making.

Types of interfacing • Woven • Non-woven • Knit • Foam • Tape

made of bonded fibres and resembles mesh. This cuts easily in any direction and won’t unravel making it perfect for using with stretch fabrics.

Knit interfacing: Knit interfacing is soft and flexible, It has a crosswise stretch but little lengthwise.

This type is suitable for fabrics such as jersey and other knit fabrics.

Tape interfacing

Pre-shrinking

These are perfect for seams in soft stretch fabrics and areas where stretch occurs.

It protects your fabric from warping and fraying, and is easier to sew by machine.

To view more tape interfacings – click here

Just like all fabrics, interfacings need to be pre-shrunk. Sew-in versions can be pre-shrunk by press steaming and fusibles by immersing in hot water. Once cool, roll out in a towel to remove excess moisture, and then air dry.

All of the interfacings mentioned come in fusible, and sew-in versions as well as different weights so you can get the ideal match for your project.

7 tips for choosing and using interfacing 1. Choose an interfacing that is

Sew-in This type is sewn on to the main fabric just like a normal layer of fabric, and is easy to use. It can provide a more natural drape, and can be used with fabrics that are heat-sensitive like lace, mesh, textured and napped fabrics.

To see the complete range of sew-in interfacings – click here

Foam interfacing:

Fusible

Foam interfacing is made from lightweight foam, which is sandwiched between two layers of a soft and ultrathin tricot fabric. It’s flexible, lightweight and perfect for bag making.

To find more foam interfacings – click here

This interfacing is backed with a special adhesive that melts and bonds to the fabric when pressed with an iron.

It’s a quick option but always test on a fabric scrap first.

To see more fusible interfacings – click here

Woven interfacing: Woven interfacing has a lengthwise and crosswise grain so it’s important that the layers work together. This interfacing is used for more tailored garments.

Non-woven interfacing: Non-woven interfacing is

Heat and Bond Soft Stretch Lite is a sew-able, lightweight iron-on web adhesive designed to move with your stretch fabric but avoids adding any bulk.

It’s great to use with knits, stretch denim, spandex, jersey fabrics, fleece and flannel.

lighter or the same weight as your fabric.

2. If your fabric can be ironed, then always choose a fusible interfacing.

3. Select the right colour of interfacing for your project.

If your fabric is a dark, then choose a dark interfacing or if it is light choose a light one.

4. There is a right and a wrong side to most interfacing.

Fusible products have a dot adhesive that you can see or feel, and the fusible side will be shiny.

5. Always try a few different weights of interfacing, and test to see which works best with your chosen fabric. Always press from the interfacing side first and then press from the fabric side to ensure a good bond applying an even pressure with the iron, lifting and placing back down to overlap the previous area.

6. Always read and follow the manufacturer’s recommendations.

7. Protect your ironing board and fabrics. To remove fusible residue from fabric, iron with a dryer sheet or use adhesive spot remover and use a hot iron cleaner to remove any fusible residue on the iron.

STORAGE SOLUTIONS LARGE AND SMALL

Prym has an extensive range of storage ideas to solve your sewing storage problems. The meadow sewing basket has a pretty, romantic floral design and will become a real eyecatcher in your sewing room. It will offer a plenty of storage space and helps you keep all your sewing tools tidy.

The trendy all-in-one Needle & Thread craft bag is perfect for storing, and the comfortable shoulder strap makes it easy for carrying. Twelve loops and eight transparent inner pockets offer lots of possibilities for storing your sewing bits and bobs.

Denim blue is timeless and this denim-coloured sewing machine trolley combines practicality with functionality. It will hold any domestic sewing machine and protect it from dirt and shocks while the straps keep your sewing machine secure inside. There are plenty of pockets and compartments for additional accessories. The stable telescopic handle and smooth-running castors make it easy to take to sewing courses and on holiday.

For more storage options – click here

WHATS

NEW

We keep you posted of the latest launches QUILT LOVELINESS

Imagine living in a pretty quilter’s cottage with flowers on the gate and quilts drying on the line.

Go through the gate, past the zinnia bush and up the cobblestone path, to receive a warm welcome at the pink painted door. Lori Holt’s new Quilter’s Cottage book takes you on this journey, and is a sweet reminder that home is where the heart is, so make it beautiful! The book includes instructions for the 74.5in by 89in quilt and coordinating projects. To see more - click here

COSY CUSHIONS

Pillow Talk by Edyta Star of Laundry Basket Quilts is a lovely book that features 25 cushion covers that will give your home a fresh look whatever the season. Discover new designs for holidays, seasons, styles, and sentiments along, as well as learning different techniques like appliqué and paper piecing in these quick-to-sew cushion projects.

To find out more about this book – click here

: D N E R T E H T SEW

Candy Hues Brazilian-born sewing blogger, Rachel Pinheiro’s shares how she has added candy shades to her wardrobe

Tips for sewing this fabric:

Pastel shades were a big last spring, and are set to stay on trend through spring 2020. It is not surprising that the pastel trend has survived from the hot days to the colder months. Soft hues are a classic spring staple but I feel pastels are set to become even more popular for winter than for spring.

 Use a walking foot. This helps you in moving this fluffy texture fabric when sewing.  Always sample your stitches for best results. I used a 90/14 sharp needles and a cotton, polyester or blend thread.  Be very careful with ironing and pressing. Bouclé fabrics can easily be damaged when it’s being ironed too hot or pressed too hard.

These romantic candy hues are bound to sweeten up your style. There seems to be quite a number of pastel colours to choose from this season, from pale blue, to blush, mint and lilac, and it’s a refreshing break from all the beige and brown. One specific pastel shade I’ve been crushing on recently is sky blue. This icy shade is perfect for winter but will carry over for those chillier early-spring days too.

Making a conscientious wardrobe is very important especially as trends are often viewed as ‘one off- fast fashion’.

Trends can be made into key pieces to help update your current wardrobe, and also get the most use from your current garments.

The pattern I picked to make this month is the Flynn Jacket from In the Folds. This oversized boyfriend fit style coatigan contrasts really well with the feminine charm of pastels. This contrast is crucial for creating an edgier look.

I chose to make in bouclé wool.

It’s heavier weight that the pattern recommends so it was important to make a sample before cutting my project.

This unlined sewing pattern has a dropped shoulder and an inverted box pleat in the back. The suggested finish uses bias binding that you can buy readymade or make it with your favourite print. The inside of the fabric looks as pretty as the outside, and this project is a good stepping stone for someone that have never sewn outer wear before.

Editor’s notes The Flynn jacket is a loose-fitting jacket designed for woven fabrics.

With two different styles, it is the perfect layering piece. The coatigan features a wrap around collar, highlow hem and in-seam pockets. and can be worn open, or closed discreetly with a hook and eye.

To view this pattern – click here The bouclé fabric is from Modelo and is a versatile double-sided, wool-style, which is perfect for coat making! It’s poly/viscose blend makes it machine washable, and great value.

To see more colourways for this bouclé fabric – click here

Trendsetter

3 key trends to top up your handmade wardrobe this season Cambria Duster from Friday Pattern Co - click here

Fading darts denim print from Art Gallery Fabrics

Cerise Slub Stretch Denim Fabric from Modelo

Blank Canvas Jenny Overalls from Closet Case patterns – click here

Wafting white fabrics are a key trend. Add them to your wardrobe to make garments that will go with other items but are practical too. These are also easily teamed up with spring colours to work for lots of occasions. Choose fabrics like linen, rayon challis, cotton voile, and chiffon.

Denim Mash-Up!

Update the hardest working garments in your wardrobe and refine your denim style with pastel and bright colours, dainty prints and the latest pattern styles.

To find more denim fabrics from Art Gallery Fabrics and Modelo – click here

Soft Tailoring

Joan Trousers from Friday Pattern Co click here

Soft tailoring describes a style of construction that’s more relaxed, simple, and set to be popular this season. Choose oversized jackets, fitted dresses, ankle grazing trousers and brightly coloured fabrics to give yours a contemporary feel.

Joan Dress from Sew Over It - click here