Modern Sewing Starts Here Edition 10

Edition 10 – May 2020

Modern sewing starts here..

GIVEAWAY Fabric Wonders Win a fabulous pack of the new pre-cuts from Art Gallery Fabrics

wear the

TREND

3 dress styles for summer

SEW AT HOME Ideas & inspiration for using the Waterfall bundle from Art Gallery Fabrics’ Color Elements 16 fat quarter bundle

HELLO

SUNSHINE Feast your eyes on the latest fabrics

PICK OF THE PATTERNS

All the latest patterns & easy makes to start you sewing!

www.modernsewingstartshere.co.uk

Sewing patterns that allow you to create your own style and stand out in the crowd

Editor’s Letter Hello In these unprecedented times, a little light relief is in order so we are all about looking forward to warmer days in this edition with lots of lovely fabric collections to brighten your day!

For those of you that sew – we have three dress trends to share with you that you can make and wear and on the second page of Pick of the Patterns, if you fancy learning to sew while in lockdown, there’s three easy patterns to get you started! And of course, we have all the latest pattern launches too.

Sarah Ashford is always brimming with inspiration for quilters, and this time she has some great ideas to make with the Waterfall Color Elements bundle from Art Gallery fabrics, which will lift your spirits while we all sit tight at home. For Wardrobe By Me sewing pattern fans – we interview Christina Albeck, the designer behind this Danish brand as she starts to sell her patterns in printed format here in the UK.

Happy stitching!

Hantex team

www.hantex.co.uk www.modernsewingstartshere.co.uk Subscribe free to get your copy – click here

WIN

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Each win n er will re eaway.

10in pa ce Wonders ck of Oh Meo ive a w Fabric from Art G which c ontains allery Fabrics, 42 piec e For a ch small projects. s for ance to w Closing date is 3 inth – click here 0 June 2020

STYLE ARC PATTERNS IN PRINT IN THE UK Hantex is delighted to announce it has added the popular Style Arc brand to its range of sewing patterns. Style Arc sewing patterns are real industry-based patterns, and include dresses, skirts, trousers, blouses, jackets and even some special occasion or bridesmaid dresses. Each pattern contains a construction sheet, with the pattern pieces numbered and easily recognisable fabric estimates.

They do assume some sewing knowledge, which is reflected in the ‘straight to it’ style instructions. Stock arrives mid May for the initial range, and the range will increase throughout the year.

To view the complete range – click here

#modernsewingstartshere

Trendsetter Dress rehearsals

3 dress trends to make and wear for the summer

SLIP STYLE

The Slip dress has made a comeback. This straight dress pattern hits mid calf and has exposed bias binding that extends into long ties to form a bow. It’s crying out to be made in silky fabrics, and has adjustable shoulder straps for the perfect fit.

To view the Calvin Wrap Dress from True Bias – click here

MUST-MAKE MIDI

Calf-length dresses can be worn for all sorts of occasions, and they are extremly flattering. This easyto-sew dress has relaxed and elegant style but also has bust darts for shaping, and on-seam pockets and sash.

To find out more about Terrace Dress from Liesl + Co click here

BORROWED FROM THE GUYS A shirtdress is such a practical staple to your wardrobe and borrows its detailing from a man’s shirt. Matilda is a modern utility style A-line shirtdress with princess seams; drop shoulders, and pleated breast pockets.

To see more from the Matilda Dress from Megan Nielsen click here

Wear the Trend: An elevated classic Brazilian-born sewing blogger, Rachel Pinheiro shares how to elevate a classic white blouse into something special!

This edition, we have another recurrent wardrobe staple – a white blouse. This sewing pattern from Closet Case Patterns has been reimagined with the ‘keep it simple but never boring’ mantra, and has been elevated by adding a blouson gathered sleeve. Classic white blouses transcend the seasons, so you can wear this style for years to come. Style the neckline with a golden pendant or chain necklace to highlight the speckled golden dots.

Tips for working with double gauze ☒ Rotary cutters and sharp pins are helpful tools, along with Microtex size 80 needles and cotton thread. ☒ Pre-wash gently and take care when pressing to not flatten the texture. ☒ Cut fabric with nap option. ☒ Make sure you overlock or finish the seams, as this fabric tends to fray easily. ☒ Because of the open weave, manipulate as little as possible to avoid distortions. ☒ Don’t skip on that all-important neckline stabilising stitch!

Perfect Fabric It’s made from my favourite springsummer fabric. Double Gauze has a soft, lightweight, and slightly crinkly texture. The fabric is made from two light-layered fine open muslin, which are joined as one, and has a slightly transparent feel. It’s naturally breathable, really soft and is semi-stable.

Editor’s notes The Cielo Dress & Top is an easy, breezy take on a boxy tee and shift dress. It’s loaded with lots of interesting details and interchangeable features such as semi-cropped top with a cuffed short sleeve or dramatic gathered long sleeve. All views have a slightly dropped shoulder, angled shoulder yoke and roomy fit, with a choice between an elegant bias binding or faced neckline finish.

To view this pattern – click here The fabric Rachel has used is Moondust Double Gauze in white from Modelo Fabrics. It comes in a range of stylish colours and enhanced with a gold or silver dot design. To view – click here

Gatherings on this fabric look particularly dashing. Here are my top tips on how to sew gathers and getting a clean finish: ☒ Best way to achieve even gathering is to sew two rows of basting stitches. One of the basting stitches should be on the seam allowance. ☒ Don’t backstitch and try to leave a long tail both sides. ☒ Gently pull the long thread tails at stages to gather the fabric.

Use the upper thread only. ☒ If you don’t have an overlocker, French seams are your best friend! To achieve a neat finish: Divide the seam allowance by WS/WS: 1cm, trim and RS/RS: 0.5 cm. ☒ Press the seam as it was sewn, and finger-roll the seam to sit perfectly at the centre. Don’t over trim. ☒ When sewing the underarm curve, stretch the curve slightly to avoid any puckering when finished.

New sewing pattern releases that you’ll want to sew!

JALIE An easy make

The Geneviéve pull-on gathered skirt is just one of 15 new patterns that Jalie has added to its collection. This below-the-knee skirt has inseam pockets, elasticated waistband that sits at natural waist, and optional waist pouch.

Choose fabrics with a soft hand and nice drape for best results!

To find out more about this skirt sewing pattern – click here

NOODLEHEAD Get organised!

CASHMERETTE Love wearing wide leg trousers

Elevate your look with the Calder Pants & Shorts!

These wide-legged woven trousers feature a flat front, elasticated back waistband, faced in-seam pockets, and three length options – mid-calf, full, and shorts. Choose between a dart-less apple fit and a darted back pear fit for ideal bottom shaping. Designed for advanced beginner sewers, this pattern comes in sizes 12-32 (US).

To find out more about this pattern from Cashmerette – click here

The Hillside Tote is perfect for when you want something a little simpler but still keep organised. Make this classic cross-body bag in your favourite print or keep it simple with a solid! With lots of front and back exterior and interior pockets, you will be able to find everything easily. It can be made in either the regular size or the mini!

To view this bag pattern – click here

MEGAN NIELSEN Virginia leggings

EASY

Every one needs a comfy pair of leggings.

These ones come with an elasticated waist, two choices of rise, and extra length to allow for easy adjustments. Make with a ruched ankle too in stretch fabrics with at least 40% stretch.

To view these leggings – click here

Peasy

Do you fancy learning to sew while in lockdown? Here are 3 easy patterns to get you started!

VICTORY PATTERNS Satsuki dress

This simple and elegant slip-on dress is easy to wear and even easier to sew! The dress has two full sleeves, that allows you to create a loose, draped fit with a flounce front detail, or hug your waist with the sash. You can also make it into a top and a classic cold shoulder.

To see more views of this dress – click here

FANCY TIGER CRAFTS Adventure Tank

This top pattern has been designed by Amber Corcoran, and comes in two styles – a muscle tee or racer-back tank. It’s perfect for those who want to try their hand with mid to lightweight knits.

To find out more about the Adventure Tank – click here

Check out the free-to-use resource listing of the very best Indie patterns and filter by fabric, garment, brand or skill level by visiting www.hantex.co.uk

DESIGNED

to wear

Christina Albeck talks to us about what inspires her Danish designs and why she has decided to start offering printed patterns Tell us a bit about your background?

I have worked as a Pattern Designer in the Fashion Industry for the past 25 years. First in California, where I lived in my twenties, and then upon my return to Denmark, I became a teacher of pattern making on CAD and started working in the Danish Fashion industry. I worked mainly as a freelancer and got to work on women’s, children’s, and menswear.

What inspired you to start Wardrobe By Me? As a freelancer, I experienced the ‘on and off’ periods significant to the fashion

cycles, and felt frustrated that I had to wait for work coming my way. After discovering the Indie PDF market, I thought; “Hey, this is easy, I can do this!”

Little did I know!

The first couple of years, Wardrobe By Me was more of a hobby for me, but since January 2018, it has been my full-time job..

How would you describe your style of patterns?

I would describe the women’s collection as simple, modern, contemporary. I focus on the types of garments that I wear myself. And clothing

that is worn over and over because you love the fit, the comfort, and the fabric. The fit is very important to me and style is best reflected in well-fitting garments.

The men’s collection is focused around the pieces that men wear on a daily basis such as shirts, T-shirts, sweaters, shorts, chinos, or light jackets or cardigans. I do look at what’s in style currently, but tend

to gravitate towards what I would call ‘normcore’. Men tend to stick with what works, and again where the fit is key.

Recently Wardrobe By Me patterns have become available in a printed format.

Tell us why you’ve decided it was time to do this?

Selling PDF patterns is great, but some people still prefer going to the fabric shop to

obvious and simple. I’m happy that I finally decided to go ahead, and I know my customers are too!

I designed Mirri for my sister (her name is Marianne, but we have always call her Mirri). She has always been a sucker for a good wrap dress. The Mirri Jersey Dress is stunning, and I love the fact that there are only four pattern pieces!

The best-selling men’s patterns are the Tropical Shirt and The Cargo Shorts.

It’s quite interesting to see, that on the women’s side, it’s the easy, uncomplicated patterns that sell best, whereas the men’s patterns are much more complicated.

When we first launched the line of patterns for men – we were targeting women sewing for men, but it has turned out that there are many men out there that sew. And what’s more, they are not intimidated by more complicated sewing techniques.

touch the fabric, and get inspired to buy a pattern and the fabric together for a specific project. Expanding into paper patterns is a way for Wardrobe By Me to reach new customers, and also to place our product where it really belongs, in the fabric shop.

How can sewers get hold of your printed patterns?

The paper pattern collection is available in fabric shops in the UK (distributed by Hantex), Denmark, Norway, Sweden, The Netherlands, Spain, USA, and Canada. We now only sell PDF patterns from our website. We have a list on the website with

links to all the shops that sell the WBM Paper Pattern Collection. We have chosen this solution to minimise the cost of shipping for the customer.

What is your best-selling sewing pattern and why do you think this is?

The best-selling women’s patterns are Mirri Jersey Dress and Asta Jersey Dress.

Both are very simple, but great fitting dresses that are easy to style, and quick to sew.

When I first designed Asta, I had the dress hanging in the studio for several months before deciding to release it. I felt it was too

What pattern plans do you have for the rest of this year?

We plan three months ahead, and try to focus on a mixture of wardrobe staples, spiced up with an occasional trendy piece.

We are releasing a front button skirt next and have a cute boho dress and a jumpsuit in the pipeline. If they do well, they will also become paper patterns in the near future.

In the autumn, I have ideas for a ‘loungewear’ collection.

I’m thinking about the type of garments that you want to wear when you come home from work. For the men’s collection, we are planning a coach jacket, which is simple front zipper jacket with welt or patch pockets and a collar.

To find out more about Wardrobe By Me patterns in print here in the UK – click here

FABRIC WONDERS Art Gallery Fabrics has just launched a range of 100% cotton pre-cut fabrics that are perfect for smaller sewing projects.

This collection comes in four of its latest designs – Mayfair, Oh Meow, Her & History and 365 Fifth Avenue, and is available in a 10in square pack and fat quarter bundle.

To see more from this pre-cut collection from AGF – click here

n o s u c o F FABRICS

Feast your eyes on the latest fabric collections that are perfect for spring

PROTECT ME

RAVE ABOUT RAYON Rayon is such a popular choice for dressmakers at the moment as it is the ultimate soft and drapable fabric. This new Praia range from Modelo is made from 65% rayon and 35% polyester, and comes in 14 lovely colour ways so there’s bound to be a shade for your next make.

Protect-Me is a new innovative fabric from Albstoffe that’s made from Trevira-Bioactive. This fabric contains fibres impregnated with silver ions that have an antimicrobial effect and inhibit the growth of bacteria, which is perfect for those garments that you exercise in! The fabric remains permanently fresh after washes and is odour-free.

It’s not only perfect for sports and activewear but snoods and non-medical facemasks, and is also kind to your skin.

To view this new fabric collection – click here

To find out more about this beautiful range – click here

GARDEN OF EDEN Designed by illustrator and pattern designer, Louise Cunningham for Cloud9. This collection features flora and fauna from around the world from lush foliage and forests, to parrots and monkeys, to giraffes from Africa. The collection is ideal for making bags and other fun accessories.

To see more of the lovely designs in this collection – click here

HELLO SUNSHINE Feel the warmth of the coastal sun in Katie’s latest collection, Hello Sunshine! Mix and match these gorgeous bold and vibrant prints to make summerworthy garments and accessories. Choose from fruity pineapples, chic geometrics, and birds of paradise flowers – all of which would make a fun holiday shirt or sundress! The cotton collection also includes a knit and rayon fabric option.

To view the full range of prints available – click here

SWISS DOT CRINKLE This soft 100% viscose fabric features the popular crinkle finish and added Swiss dot. The range comes in lots of summer’s trending colours including mustard yellow, mango and vibrant orange. It’s the ideal fabric for a lightweight, floaty summer dresses. For some dress inspiration, flip to page 7.

To see all of the colours available – click here

LOVE LINEN Linen is always a favoured fabric for summer because of its breathable and cooling properties.

The new line of linen from Modelo is light and airy, and such a versatile and easy to sew fabric too.

The viscose and linen mix means it is less likely to wrinkle, and is also softer on the skin. It has a great drape and weight meaning it will work wonderfully for dresses, trousers, shorts and tops.

It comes in 11 muted and brigher colours.

To see more from this linen range – click here

Dress and top illustration is from Megan Nielsen’s popular River sewing pattern

Put a spring in

your step!

Sarah Ashford, obsessive quilter and fabric lover shares her ideas for working with the colourway, Waterfall from AGF’s Color Master Elements

Ideas to inspire

Spring arrived and with it has this gorgeous Art Gallery Fabrics Color Elements Waterfall bundle to lift our spirits as we all sit tight at home. Now is the perfect time to make something in these gorgeous greens, and if you can’t go outside, bring the outdoors inside!

There’s such a lovely selection of prints and shades in this 16 fat quarter bundle.

From zesty green circles and neon squares to emerald green florals and aqua triangles, there’s a shade for every project.

There are so many possibilities with this beautiful bundle. Why not make a picnic blanket using blocks such as this pretty antique star block. We might not be able to go to the park or beach right now but you can always have a picnic in your back garden or on your balcony!

Failing that, it would make a happy drape for a child’s den. Or just make one block and turn it into a cushion or set of cushions – they would look lovely in your kitchen or on the patio chairs. This star block comes together surprisingly quickly as it’s just made up of half square triangles in a clever orientation.

If you’re looking for a quick finish, why not make a set of napkins. You could add some appliqué detail or add some embroidery to make them extra special. It’s always lovely to bring a handmade touch to the dinner table.

Or why not keep the kids organised and make a cute patchwork pencil case. It’s the perfect and stylish way to keep those felt tip pens and crayons tidy! My daughter has snagged this one already!

Colour combos This bundle would also look great paired with sunny yellows and oranges, or why not add in hot pinks for a wonderful tropical feel. With 16 fat quarters to choose from in this bundle, the possibilities really are endless!

Editor’s notes To view all the colourways in Color Master Elements collection from Art Gallery Fabrics – click here

QUILT PATTERN BOOKS Elizabeth Hartman has just released two new patchwork sample pattern books that are perfect for children’s rooms and nurseries. The Dinosaurs Quilt Pattern Book features Brachiosaurus, Stegosaurus, Tyrannosaurus, and Triceratops blocks and The Puppies Quilt Pattern features three dog blocks – Smokey, Toby, and Lulu. Both are made from square and rectangular pieces sewn together using conventional patchwork techniques. There are no templates or paper piecing, and the pattern includes two quilt sizes, both of which can be made using either 10in x 10in squares or fat quarters.

To view more quilt pattern books – click here

WHAT’S

NEW

We keep you posted on the latest launches

LINT REMOVER The battery-operated lint shaver from Prym leaves woollen clothing looking like new! Behind the shaving head with holes lies a shearing device with sharp blades that rotate. When you pass this over the fabric and apply slight pressure, it shaves the surface lint and little pilled fibre balls off, and collects them in the collection cup. The spacer has three settings to suit different materials.

To see more about this handy tool – click here

RECYCLED WADDING Vlieseline has just brought out two weights of high loft polyester wadding that is entirely made from recycled polyester – R80 and R200. R80 is a lighter weight, whilst R200 is a heavier (200gsm) weight wadding but both have the same qualities. The bulky sew-able wadding has a soft handle made from100% recycled polyester fibres with a high migration resistance. They are ideal for all your quilting, patchwork, and garment projects, and can be sewn by hand or machine.

To find out more about Vlieseline products – click here

Super useful SEWING TOOLS

Julie Bonnar from The Pattern Pages shares 5 of her favourite sewing tools that are a must-have for dressmakers

When making your own clothes, do you dread certain sewing techniques, I know I certainly do? But with the correct tools in your sewing box the sky’s the limit to what you can sew!

SHOESTRING STRAPS & OTHER SKINNY FABRIC TUBES! The Turning Set is such a practical tool, and makes turning those tubes of fabric that make shoestring straps, rouleau and belt loops that bit easier! It’s easy to use, just take your fabric tube on one side and place over the plastic tube. With the plastic rods you can now push your fabric through on the stitched side, and turn. This set has three sizes.

To view this one from Prym – click here

BIAS BOUND ARMHOLES Does the mention of self-fabric bias binding fill you with dread? Then you need this little tape maker to form perfect lengths of bias binding. By cutting the fabric strip at a 45o angle to the grain of the fabric, the bias binding is more elastic and can be used on necklines and armholes as a finishing. After the fabric strips are cut and joined together, it can be pulled through the wide opening of

the tape maker and smoothed out with the iron. They come in a wide range of sizes – 6mm, 12mm, 18mm, 25mm and 50mm so there’s one for your sewing project. Use for binding fabric edges such as armholes, necklines and hems.

To view all the sizes – click here

EVERYTHING TO HAND If you are like me, you like to have all your sewing tools to hand when you are cutting out fabric. This Stash ‘n Store organiser is great to have by your side on the cutting table to stow all those marking tools, small scissors and rulers. The silicone pockets are smooth and offer a sturdy grip and it is also simple to clean. It comes in lots of lovely colours to fit your sewing room’s colour scheme, and there’s a mini version too.

To view the complete range of colours from Oh Sew! – click here PERFECT SEAMS Any area sewn where you have to fold while you press, there’s a chance of burning your fingers! This Quick

Press Seam Roller by Lori Holt has been designed for quilters but is the perfect tool to flatten seams as well as appliqué shapes. Made of sturdy wood, the seam roller creates fast and flat seams with just the slightest pressure so you can finish your project faster and heat-free or why not use it with a steam iron.

To find out more – click here

TURN A CORNER The plum blue corner and edge shaper, with its asymmetrical pointed and rounded blunt tip, enables the moulding of turned over corners, edges and curves without damaging the fabric. This tool has no sharp edges but rather a rounded tip, making it the perfect moulding aid when sewing small items and collars.

It’s also useful for spreading out seams without ironing.

To view this sewing tool – click here

FOR THE LOVE

of scrubs Many of you in the sewing community have been busy supporting the NHS to #StayHomeAndSew

Nurse, Ashleigh Linsdell works in a busy A&E, and her original quest was to make scrubs for her department after they ran out of paper ones. Now she is gathering thousands of volunteers to make uniforms at home for NHS workers amid coronavirus scrubs shortage. Thousands of sewers have joined to help make PPE clothing and this has become a national campaign. ‘For The Love of Scrubs’ makes scrubs for the doctors and nurses and other key workers in health centres, and those retired NHS workers, and new volunteers who are returning to work and don’t have scrubs to wear.

SUITABLE FABRIC AND PATTERNS FOR MAKING SCRUBS Understandably, over the last few months sewers everywhere have been keen to help out where possible with the production of much needed scrubs for the NHS. Hantex was able to donate 400 metres of suitable fabric to the ‘For the love of scrubs’ groups in their local area.

Fabric was also made available at a ‘non-profit’ price for everyone to make scrubs.

Some of the brands that we distribute for or buy from us have designed scrubs patterns.

Here are just two that we are aware of: 1. Unisex Scrubs From Sew Me Something – click here 2. Eliane Scrub Top as pictured here from Jalie To find a stockist near you – click here

FACE MASKS A facemask will help prevent the spread of Covid-19 but it should be emphasised that non-medical masks are not a direct replacement. That said fabrics with a high thread count such as Art Gallery Fabric’s Pima cotton should have an improved performance. Ideally you want an OEKO-Tex certified fabric as it has no hazardous chemicals. Fortunately Art Gallery Fabric is OEKO -Tex certified, and also its Pima cotton has very low shrinkage when washed so added bonus!

Hantex will be offering an alternative design face mask pattern shortly, which uses a sandwich of fabrics that are high-thread count Pima cotton on the outside and a lining of Albstoffe Protect-Me anti-microbial fabric on the face side, (see page 10 and 11 for details about this fabric).

Available in 10in squares and fat quarter packs

A collection of pre-cuts to cater for all your sewing projects click here