Modern Sewing Starts Here Edition 11

Edition 11 – July 2020

Modern sewing starts here..

GIVEAWAY Quilters Cottage Win a copy of the latest quilter’s pattern book by Lori Holt from Bee In My Bonnet Company

wear the

TREND

3 catwalk trends to sew this season

WFH

Rachel Pinheiro discusses how to remain stylish while working from home

PICK OF THE PATTERNS

All the latest patterns plus a look at shorts patterns for summer

Sagebrush top from Friday Pattern Company

www.modernsewingstartshere.co.uk

by Modelo Fabrics

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Bray Viscose Linen

This Linen fabric is excellent quality and the Viscose and Linen mix means it is less likely to wrinkle. It has a great drape and weight and works wonderfully with this Avenir jumpsuit from Friday Pattern Company Photo and make : Loopy Mabel

See every range and find a stockist at www.modelofabrics.co.uk

Quality wearable fabrics

Editor’s Letter Hello The joy of sewing has definitely kept us all going during the lockdown, and things have never been so busy here at Hantex HQ. As lockdown restrictions ease and more shops begin to re-open, don’t forget that you can support and find your local stockist of sewing goodies on our website.

If you are sewing for the summer, then do read our Pick of the Patterns where we share the latest pattern releases. We’ve also picked some of our favourite shorts patterns. Shorts really are for all sorts of occasions, and a must-make wardrobe piece for summer! We’ve put together patterns to make three of the latest catwalk trends to sew this season.

Our quilting guru, Sarah Ashford takes a look at the latest quilt pattern book by Lori Holt of Bee In My Bonnet Company, while dressmaking expert, Rachel Pinheiro shares her ideas on putting together a working from home wardrobe.

Happy stitching!

Hantex team

www.hantex.co.uk www.modernsewingstartshere.co.uk Subscribe free to get your copy – click here

WIN W

IN WIN We hav ! e Quilter’s 3 copies of the Cottage Holt to

by Lori chance giveaway. For a to win – click he Closing re date August is 30th 2020

A NEW NAME FOR WELL-KNOWN INDIE PATTERN COMPANY Closet Case Patterns started out as a humble sewing blog called Closet Case Files back in 2011, and evolved into the pattern brand we love today. It’s saying goodbye to Closet CASE Patterns and hello to Closet CORE Patterns! With the new name, the brand will be re-aligning with its core values of personal empowerment, inclusivity and creative growth. Renaming is a huge project and it’s still in the early stages. Hopefully, within a year all older pattern components will be able to be reprinted, but until then just the envelopes will be updated.

Core = the essential, enduring, innermost part.

Closet Core = the beloved pieces you reach for day after day.

Closet Core Patterns = who they are going forward: redefined and rededicated to craft, community and mission.

To view the complete range – click here

#modernsewingstartshere

NOW IN PRINT IN THE UK

New sewing pattern releases that you’ll want to sew!

FRIDAY PATTERN COMPANY The Sagebrush is such an easy-to-sew blouse that’s both a joy to make and wear.

Designed for woven fabrics, it looks great in breezy fabrics like cotton voile, as well as more structured fabrics like crisp linens. The pattern is loose without being baggy, and has generous puff sleeves, gathers across the front and a tie at the back neckline making it comfortable to move around in.

To view the Sagebrush top and more from Friday Pattern Company – click here

WARDROBE BY ME

Wardrobe By Me is based in Denmark, and the stylish Danish design is evident in the contemporary styling of its patterns. They have a broad appeal and include modern garments that are easy to wear for both women and men.

To find your local stockist and find out more about Wardrobe By Me printed patterns – click here

FOLKWEAR

Folkwear is known for its specialist and vintage dressmaking patterns.

The company has released several new patterns to its mix including the Two Middies Top (the sailor-style top‘s popularity peaked in the ’20s), and an Edwardian Bridal Gown (the perfect vintage wedding dress with high neck, leg o’mutton sleeves, and flounced train) shown here.

To view these and more from Folkwear – click here

STYLE ARC

NOW IN PRIN T IN THE UK

Style Arc produces real industry-based sewing patterns including dresses, skirts, trousers, blouses, jackets and even special occasion garments. Each pattern contains a construction sheet, and do assume some sewing knowledge, which is reflected in the ‘straight to it’ style instructions. Going forward, Hantex is adding all new Style Arc designs as they’re launched starting with two new designs – Texas Pant and Austin Jacket. In addition, we’re also adding more of the back catalogue designs to give dressmakers more choice!

Style Arc patterns come in sizes 4-30.

To view more Style Arc patterns, and find a local stockist – click here

SHORTS

Shorts for all occasions, and the must-have wardrobe piece for summer for everyone!

CARGO SHORTS FROM WARDROBE BY ME

Cargo Shorts are a popular choice with the guys. These have pleated side pockets, back welt pockets, a front fly with zipper, side pockets, six belt loops, faced waistline, and back reinforcement. If you prefer, just remove the side pocket and reinforcement and make a classic pair of shorts.

To find out more about the Cargo Shorts – click here

OPAL SHORTS FROM MEGAN NIELSEN The paperbag waistband is so on-trend, and the Opal features a pair of shorts with patch pockets and this waistband style as well as a pair of knee length shorts with elastic waist and belt. Make in bottom weight fabrics with some structure such as linen, tencel, rayon, cotton voile or poplin, viscose, satin, charmeuse, crepe, wool and chambray.

The pattern comes in sizes 0-20 and 14-30 for curvier figures. The pattern also includes trousers too.

To see more of this pattern – click here

BOARD SHORTS FROM JALIE

A must-make for hotter days, this pattern has the men and the boys covered! These board shorts have a tiewaist and Velcro fly, contrast side panels for mixing and matching fabrics plus a key pocket that’s sewn to the waist facing. They’re perfect for holidays and the beach.

To find out more about this sewing pattern – click here

PIETRA SHORTS FROM CLOSET CORE

These are the best of both worlds and include a flat front, highwaisted silhouette with the comfort of an elastic waist in the back.

Featuring lengthening panels in the front with slanted hip pockets and a hidden waist stay, you’ll never want to take them off. Choose the gently flared shorts (view C) or make a wide leg in floorskimming or cropped length.

To view this shorts pattern – click here

Check out the free-to-use resource listing of the very best Indie patterns and filter by fabric, garment, brand or skill level by visiting www.hantex.co.uk

A marriage of COLOUR &

The Fusions fabric collections from Art Gallery Fabric bring together the best prints with a new colour story

Have you ever wished that your AGF favourite designer had created a fabric in a different colour? If the answer is yes, then the Fusion collections may be for you! If you are a fan of AGF then you will probably recognise many of the designs and prints as they come from other collections, but in the Fusion collections, these popular prints have been re-coloured to change its colour story into exciting new collections.

This wonderful soft fabric range is always on-trend and includes high thread count 100% pima cotton fabrics that Art Gallery Fabrics is well-known for. These versatile fabrics are perfect for bringing your sewing projects alive, whether it’s making your own stylish clothes, accessories like handbags, or just updating your soft furnishings with new cushions for the sofa to making a delicious handmade quilt to brighten up the bedroom or the nursery.

In addition to pima cottons, many of these collections include rayon and knits to add to its versatility. They are also match well with the Pure Elements and Pure Solids collections. There are now 21 collections in the Fusion range covering all sorts of exciting themes to make your sewing fun, and many feature a free project that you can download to get you started!

These fresh fabric collections are easy to sew and all the colours go together so there is no need to worry about if the colours you pick go together, Art Gallery Fabrics have already done the hard work!

“Fusions from AGF Studio are bite-size collections featuring prints from AGF designers, which have been arranged in a new and imaginative narrative.”

Ballerina Fusion

This is one of the first collections for 2020, and is super soft, very neutral with minimal prints that work super well together. It’s inspired by a certain cosiness that comes with quiet mornings and a warm cup of tea.

The collection highlights blush tones with soft, dainty and subtle textures.

To view the full collection – click here

Foresta Fusion

Discover an enchanting forest that awakens at dusk, when woodland animals come out to forage amongst the dark, moody florals and towering trees. Grounded in cranberry and pine with dusted pinks, this collection is for those whose hearts are filled with wanderlust.

To view this dark floral collection – click here

Rosewood Fusion

Embracing the Danish ‘Hygge’ concept of being present in the moment, this range highlights warm, sun kissed hues that radiate the room as you enjoy a cup a coffee, the warming glow of candlelight, and create something handmade.

To view the calm collection – click here

Marrakesh Fusion

Transport to an exotic escape where evocative colours awaken the senses! Taking inspiration from stunning architecture and hanging tapestries found in marketplaces – these prints encompass all the sights you’d stumble upon in the eclectic city of Marrakesh.

To view this vibrant collection – click here

New collection coming soon

The Serenity Fusion collection will be available from October, and is inspired by the ocean’s tranquil waters and the feeling of warm sand between your toes. This collection highlights celeste tones with creamy, ethereal, and subtle textures.

To take a sneaky peek – click here

FOR THE KIDS A Capsules collection form Art Gallery Fabrics, it features gentle creatures like llamas and porcupines and they make their way through a black and white desert sprinkled in marigold yellow, sage green, and soft peaches to enter the whimsical world of Pacha. This collection contains a modern mix of cottons, knits and rayons, and is perfect for children’s attire and soft furnishings.

n o s u c o F

To find your nearest stockist – click here

FABRICS

Feast your eyes on the latest fabric collections that are perfect for spring

365 FIFTH AVENUE DARK FLORALS The Trouvaille fabric line is a luscious windfall of eclectic and bold geometric lines intensified with opulent florals that invite you to find more than one alluring lucky find! Add a touch of elegance to your sewing projects with two unexpected colour palettes filled with lavish pinks, lavender blues, and vivid teal.

To view this rich collection– click here

This former address of an upscale department store in New York City, is where fabric designer’s Bari J’s mother often drew inspiration from the fashions she loved.

It’s embellished with eye-catching florals mixed with mid-century geometrics that drums up images of chic trends of apparel and décor during the 1950s and ’60s with these prints. It’s great for stylish soft furnishings for the home, apparel and accessories and includes cottons, knits and rayons.

To find out more about this Art Gallery Fabrics’ collection – click here

SUMMER RIB KNIT FABRICS This summery collection of ribbed jersey knits from Modelo are perfect for dresses, tops and lightweight cardigans, and is made from a mix of viscose, polyester and elastane.

The collection contains 10 wonderful colours from beautiful brights to muted everyday basics.

To see more of the colourways available – click here

LUSH LAMINATES These matte finished 100% organic cotton fabrics with PU coating are ideal for making items that can withstand a few raindrops and showers like backpacks, shopping bags, raincoats and picnic blankets. Go bold or go home with this Cloud9 range as it features some bold prints including palm leaves, tulips, summer berries, and petal prints to name a few.

To view the complete collection – click here

GHOSTLY GREETINGS Get ahead with your makes for All Hallows’ Eve with the Spooky ‘n Sweet collection. It’s all about celebrating the magic of Halloween! Taking inspiration from vintage decorations, the nostalgic collection tells the story of a sweet, little witch named ‘Peppermint’ and her group of ghoulish friends who set out on a haunting adventure on this creepy night! Make goody bags for collecting candy and bunting to decorate for a party.

To see all the fabric designs in this range – click here

ING...

WHAT’S TREND Lavender Dots Poplin from Monaluna

Lush lions lilac cotton from Selva by AGF

Calico Days Lavender from Spirited by AGF

LILAC & LAVENDER Subtle purple shades are set to be a huge trend in interior design for this year and ideal for making some stylish cushions, bedding and other soft furnishings for your home.

To find out more about these fabrics shown here – click on the images

On the MARK Julie Bonnar from The Pattern Pages discusses 4 ways to transfer pattern markings to fabric

When you sew any garment, you’ll need to temporarily mark the placement of things like closures, darts, pockets and notches from your sewing pattern. This is an important step and needs to be accurate to get a perfect fit. There are lots of different marking tools on the market so which one should you choose?

CHALK Chalk markers come in the form of a pencil, wheel or in a flat piece of chalk known as tailor’s chalk. Your sewing machine probably arrived with a standard chalk pencil and brush but there are lots of different colours and sizes available. Tailor’s chalk comes in a variety of colours and has been used in the tailoring businesses for years. A chalk wheel is easy to hold and delivers an accurate fine line of chalk powder. It’s more ergonomically shaped and ideal for left and right-handers. I really like the Prym chalk stick, which you can get a pack to refill it. To view it – click here Pros: Chalk is a less risky option as it will fade and brush away easily on all fabrics (which is sometimes a disadvantage too) Cons: It can easily break if dropped, and most types you will need to sharpen regularly.

CARBON PAPER AND TRACING WHEEL This is a more traditional way of transferring markings to fabric. It’s a bit fiddly to use – you need to place the carbon paper face down on your fabric, lay the pattern on top, and use the tracing wheel to trace the lines onto the fabric.

Pros: You can mark both sides of the fabric at once, which is an advantage for transferring things like darts. It’s good for transferring longer pattern lines to fabric before cutting.

Cons: The carbon paper can smudge onto your fabric when holding it in place with your hands. You do need to apply quite a lot of pressure so the lines are not faint, so it works better on thinner fabrics. Curves can be tricky to transfer and the chalk can drag slightly on the fabric.

PENS There are a wide range of pens from water soluble ones that remove by washing in soapy water, and disappearing/vanishing/air-dry pens where marks disappear after 48 hours (these usually come in a violet colour).

Pros: Vanishing pens are good for fabrics that are not suitable for washing. Most pen types come in different tip thicknesses. A pen rolls easily, doesn’t drag on fabric, comes in a variety of colours, and never needs sharpening.

Cons: Pens can dry out quickly if not stored correctly, and need replacing regularly.

TAILOR’S TACKS These tiny little stitches are made up of loose looped hand sewn stitches that are sewn through your patterns onto the fabric.

Pros: This is a really safe way to mark delicate/light-coloured fabrics. Again you can mark both sides of fabric at once, and they can be sewn through tissue patterns easily.

Cons: It takes longer to sew these and the thread can pull out of fabric when handling, and can be more difficult to sew on thicker weight patterns too.

MARKING TIPS ☒ Always test your pencil/pen/chalk on a scrap of the fabric before starting your project to see how it reacts and how easy it is to remove. ☒ Test out a few different marking tools to see which one you prefer and which one is more accurate for the job. ☒ Use light-coloured marking tools on dark fabrics and darker-coloured tools on light fabrics.

To find more marking tools – click here

Trendsetter Summer styling

3 catwalk trends to sew this season

CONTEMPORARY TEA DRESS

A tea dress is an easy garment for stylish days. Typically made in floral ditsy fabrics and flattering but why not give it a modern look with plain fabrics. This is a great pattern that has lots of different style options. Make yours above the knee length, midi tea length or even as a hip length top.

To find out more about this lovely dress pattern from Sew House Seven - click here

OVERALL STYLE

A big trend for this summer that will also see you into the autumn; is the overall. This is an extension of the jumpsuit trend that’s been around for a while but has a relaxed look. This pattern features angled patch pockets set into princess seams, a V-neckline and a front button closure.

To view the Yari Jumpsuit from True Bias - click here

SLEEVES WITH VOLUME It’s definitely all about pumping up the volume when it comes to sleeves, and the bigger the better! The braceletlength flounce sleeves on this top adds some drama to this blouse along with the choice of inset sheer/lace inset stripe or fun frill.

To find out more about the Afternoon Tea Blouse from Liesl + Co Pattern – click here

A Quilter’s Cottage Sarah Ashford, obsessive quilter and fabric lover takes a look at the latest quilt pattern book by Lori Holt of Bee In My Bonnet Company

the time to do all the cutting in one go, carefully labelling as you go.

Once you get to the piecing, it’s surprising how quickly it does come together. And with the help of the really clear step diagrams, I was able to follow the instructions without any issues at all. The quilt and all the projects use regular piecing, with some clever techniques to create certain shapes. The instructions are so easy to understand, I think even confident-beginner quilters will be able to give these patterns a go.

As soon as I saw this adorable quilt pattern, with it’s charming cottage, complete with a heart on the door, flower adorned lawn, white picket fence and the beautiful quilts on the washing line, I just knew that this had to be a project on my bucket list!

You’ll see from the photos that I’ve already started, making my very own candy pink version, and I’m so excited to carry on with it throughout the year. There really is something so satisfying about pictorial quilts – I just love watching the images start to emerge, one piece of fabric at a time!

I started by making the house, and one thing I love about Lori’s patterns is that they are clear and simple to understand.

I’m not going to lie, there is a lot of cutting involved, but it’s really clear how to cut each piece, and it really is worth taking

I also had fun stitching one of the blocks for the quilt on the washing line.

It’s a really gorgeous block and having not made the whole quilt, I was surprised at how big it turned out (19½in square.)

It really has a lot of impact, and will look gorgeous on the quilted washing line!

If you love the motifs in this quilt but don’t want to commit to the complete quilt top, then there are lots of options for smaller projects to decorate the home. I love how the washing line quilt blocks work perfectly as oversized cushions, and there are separate instructions to make bigger versions, measuring a 24½in square. There are also instructions to make a cute table runner using the flowers, which would also double up as a pretty bed runner, sitting alongside the cushions.

The photography in this pattern book is as always with Lori’s books, beautiful and whimsical. The retro props and styling make you want to make all the projects. So why not turn your home into your very own quilter’s cottage!

Editor’s notes A Quilter’s Cottage Book includes instructions for the 74½in x 89in quilt as well as a few coordinating projects.

To find out more – click here

VINTAGE STYLE Travel back to a gentler era with this Prim & Proper quilt book from Lori Holt of Bee In My Bonnet Co. The quilt features an elaborate vintage vase holding a sweet floral arrangement of flowers and leaves, surrounded by a colourful array of cross-stitches honouring a sister art.

To find your local stockist and learn more – click here

WHAT’S

NEW

We keep you posted on the latest launches EXCITING NEW PRYM PRODUCTS We now have in stock more Prym items for your sewing, quilting, and appliqué than ever. Here’s just a selection of what we can offer.

These fine and extra-fine special hand-sewing needles are made from hardened steel and stand out due to their ideal length and diameter ratio with its symmetrical design and burr-free eye. The tips are polished several times for added strength and quality to make quilting easier.

This 45mm blade rotary cutter is convenient, effortless and safe to work with. It has a natural hand position thanks to the ergonomically shaped handle. The blade guard will protect you even when changing the blade, and can be used by leftand right-handed crafters!

We love these 15cm embroidery scissors with rose gold handles. They’re great for appliqué, overlocking and quilting projects and have specially shaped curved blades and handle to prevent any damage to your fabric or appliqué motifs.

The curved textile scissors from KAI are great for cutting delicate fabrics. They have a chamfered blade point so will cut only the topmost layer without crushing it even when there are several fabric layers. They also prevent snagging that might damage the fabric or the embroidery.

To view more of the new products from Prym – click here

12 AMAZING PROJECTS The Bonnie & Camille Quilt Bee Book features 12 amazing projects from celebrated mother-daughter team. The book presents their personal stories of how quilting has shaped their past and present while influencing future generations.

The book also features great tips on how to make quilting an occasion to be shared with family, friends and the global quilting community, plus other practical quilting advice.

Look forward to making the unforgettable Shine On Sampler Quilt, nine coordinating quilts, a pillow and one gift-worthy thread catcher including a bonus cross-stitch companion of the sampler quilt.

To view this quilt pattern book – click here

Wear the Trend:

WFH

Brazilian-born sewing blogger, Rachel Pinheiro discusses how to remain stylish while working from home

With many of us working from home for the foreseeable future, there aren’t so many opportunities to go out so our ‘getting ready’ routine may be slowly diminishing or completely disappearing. As a woman, I feel that allocated time in the morning when we’re caring for ourselves is an act of self-love, and a small part of a routine where creativity, inspiration and relaxation can flourish. It’s such an important ritual that it shouldn’t disappear so having an arsenal of stylish and comfortable outfits and a dedicated five minutes of mindfulness really can work wonders during these uncertain times!

WOVEN PATTERNS: ☒ TOPS - Sagebrush Top by Friday Pattern Company, Satsuki blouse from Victory Patterns, and Dove Blouse by Megan Nielsen ☒ BOTTOMS - Pietra Pants from Closet Core Patterns, Cashmerette’s Calder Shorts and Pants, Style Arc’s Claire Pants and the Emerson Pant & Shorts by True Bias

WOVEN FABRICS:

Co-ord sets Coordinated sets are perfect for the ‘Working from Home’ (WHF) uniform. Mix and match different patterns and keep it coordinated by using the same fabric.

Make the top slightly smarter for those work video calls and pair it with super comfortable trousers that allow you to stretch along the day. As we’re not moving around so much make sure your clothes give you ample mobility. I have selected a few different tops and trousers that would work well together. Pick your favourite combo or make four coordinated items for maximum wearability.

Moondust Pink with Gold Dots Double Gauze

Art Gallery Fabrics ‘Sprinkled Peonies”

☒ Moondust Pink with Gold Dots Double Gauze – click here ☒ Empire Yellow from Pure Solids by AGF Studio – click here ☒ Mink from Pure Solids by AGF Studio – click here ☒ Art Gallery Fabrics ‘Sprinkled Peonies’ – click here

KNIT PATTERNS: ☒ TOPS - Elle Reversible Top by Jalie and the Linden Sweater by Grainline ☒ BOTTOMS - Hudson Pants from True Bias

KNIT FABRICS: ☒ Korem Pine Green Ponte Roma – click here ☒ Sete Sand Melange Summer Rib Knit – click here ☒ Aloe Mist Linen Solids Knit by AGF In House Studio – click here

Sete Sand Melange Summer Rib Knit

Aloe Mist Linen Solids Knit

by AGF In House Studio

Jeans are a go!

Rio Grey Stretch Cotton Sateen from Modelo – click here

Modelo’s Springfield Mid Blue Denim – click here

For many people the thought of wearing a pair of jeans all day might feel uncomfortable but when they’ve been made-to-measure and sewn by you – you are in control of every detail to give you the most comfort.

A crisp shirt is the ideal complement for a fail-proof combination that will even look good with your slippers! As a final touch add jewellery – it’s such a small detail but makes a huge difference to your overall look.

Combo 1 Camp Shirt + Dress by Liesl + Co and Getaway Jeans from The Sewing Workshop make the perfect pairing.

Warm White Batiste from Cloud9 Fabrics - click here

Combo 2

Springfield Black Stretch Denim by Modelo - click here

Monty Shirt and Dress from Style Arc teamed up with Ames Jeans from Cashmerette

Modelo’s Springfield Olive Stretch Denim click here Floret Sunkissed Rayon from Art Gallery’s Blush collection by Dana Willard - click here

Combo 3 Recital Shirt from Liesl + Co with the Éléonore pull-on Jeans from Jalie

Check out the free-to-use resource listing of the very best Indie patterns and filter by fabric, garment, brand or skill level by visiting www.hantex.co.uk

Tommie is the renowned designer behind Sirena Patterns, her swimwear and clothing have adorned the likes of America’s Next Top Model winners and local and international celebrities.

She’s been specialising in swimwear for the past 20 years and now her patterns are available across the UK and Europe. Learn about swimwear and lingerie construction techniques by using Tommie’s patterns and take your sewing to a new place.

See the range and find stockists at www.hantexonline.co.uk/sirena