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Open Letter To Anyone Who Cares About Wild Sustainable Salmon “There used to be millions of wild salmon in the waters of the Pacific Northwest. Now, there’s only a fraction of that. Where have all the salmon gone? That’s the question I, Duke Moscrip, owner of Duke’s Chowder House have been asking lately, and we want to know the answer. That’s why we at Duke’s support the non-profit organization, Long Live the Kings, who are committed to answering that question. Their mission is to restore wild salmon and steelhead. Think about this: one of our most important food sources is endangered and is threatened with extinction. And, without salmon, there will be no Orca Whales. Now is the time to support the efforts of Long Live the Kings. I urge you to give now to support the restoration and preservation of our wild salmon. If we don’t do it, who will? Let’s not take the risk that our salmon disappear forever. Help me by helping Long Live the Kings. Together we can move mountains and restore our wild salmon back to our waters.” Visit http://lltk.org/support-us to donate today and support our salmon!”
Searching For The World’s Finest Seafood Is Duke’s Passion. “Sustainability is personal to me. I will do everything I can to make sure that we have Wild Seafood for our grandchildren and our grandchildren’s grandchildren forevermore. I know you are hungry for better seafood. That’s why I go to Alaska and fish with the fishermen and women in order to bring you the best seafood on the planet. I want you to personally experience the taste of the best and invite you to visit any of our six locations where I guarantee sustainable seafood with exceptional flavor.” ALKI 206-937-6100 LAKE UNION 206-382-9963
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P.S. Receive two free dinners at Duke’s by joining our VIP Club. Join for free on our website below.
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volume 8 issue 3
HA R B OR S
The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine CONTACT 3214 45th Ave SW Seattle, WA 98116
E: info@harborsmagazine.com W: www.harborsmagazine.com
PUBLISHER / EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Katherine S. McKelvey BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT George V. Bivoino EDITOR Russ Young editor@harborsmagazine.com ART DIRECTOR Karen Johnson COPY EDITING Biff Burns ADVERTISING SALES Mark McLean, Senior Account Executive mark@harborsmagazine.com CONTRIBUTORS Sean Griffin Jean Groesbeck Deane Hislop Terry W. Sheely
HARBORS
View the most sought- after adventure destinations around the waters of the Pacific Northwest.
Adventure & Lifestyle Videos Articles & Photography Fishing Lodges Resorts & Spas
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PHOTO CREDITS Heath Moffat, cover photo VIH Execujet, pgs. 14-19 Terry W. Sheely, pgs. 20-25 Alaska Ultimate Safaris, pgs. 2628 (middle), 29, 30 (top), 31 (top) Kat McKelvey, pgs. 28 (top and bottom), 30 (bottom), 31 (bottom)
Tom Tripp Tom Vandall Russ Young
Visit San Juan Islands, pgs. 40-45 Deane Hislop, pgs. 48-53, 76-77 Karen Johnson, pg. 50 (top) Bear Creek Winery, pgs. 54-61 Iron Springs Resort, pgs. 74, 75, (top) Sean Griffin, pgs. 75 (middle), 78-79 Tom Tripp, pgs. 70-72
HARBORS Magazine is a proud sponsor of: Pacific Salmon Foundation of Canada Long Live the Kings of Washington State Friday Harbor Film Festival HARBORS Magazine is a proud member of: British Columbia Floatplane Association Northwest Marine Trade Association Northwest Yacht Brokers Association Washington State Seaplane Pilots Association PUBLISHED BY
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All rights reserved. Partial or whole reproduction is prohibited. The publisher will not be held responsible for errors in advertising beyond the cost of the space of the ad. No changes may be made or cancellation accepted after the publication deadline date. Opinions expressed in signed articles are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect the views of this magazine.
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HAR B O R S
Welcome to HARBORS The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine
A Note from the Publisher
Harbor Lights Greetings, For all the clichés, all the over-exaggerations, and all the urban legends about rain in the Pacific Northwest, we had a very wet winter of 2016/2017! So, there is little doubt that those of us living in the upper-left-hand corner of North America have welcomed spring and are looking forward to summer, after such a wet— and cold—winter. (Okay ... maybe not as bad as some of the central and eastern parts of the US and Canada, but certainly enough to leave boaters and pilots praying for sunshine and smooth waters in the Pacific Northwest.) Our May/June issue is kicking off the 2017 boating and seaplane season, and, as always, we are looking forward to bringing you more great destinations to explore. Many of you will be devoting spare time this spring on upgrading your boats, and planning your boating and fishing itineraries. We encourage you to use our articles and advertising as a guide to find the perfect products and services you’ll need while traveling the waters this season. This is the time for spring cleaning—and rekindling our relationship with the outdoors. In this issue of HARBORS, we have some wonderful articles that reflect the real beauty of our region. You’ll find great adventures, from seeing Alaskan glaciers up close, to bottom fishing for rockfish and lingcod out of Ilwaco on the southwestern corner of Washington. And there’s much more, from discovering BC’s Genoa Bay Marina to tasting fruit wines in Homer, Alaska! Our goal is to inspire you to get out and enjoy the waters of the Pacific Northwest in 2017. Enjoy the magazine, the journey and your destination! Cheers!
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Katherine S. McKelvey Publisher
The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine
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Get on board with
HARBORS Calling all Captains, Pilots and Adventure Enthusiasts…. we appreciate your support and look forward to bringing you more and more exciting boating and seaplane destinations.
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2017 May/June
Features
14
Adventure Charters
20
Ilwaco
26
Alaska Ultimate Safaris
34
Travel Maps
40
Waterfront Living
48
Genoa Bay Marina
54
Bear Creek Winery & Lodgings
62
HARBORS Happenings
68
Celebrity Chef Profile and Recipe
70
Gear Guide
74
Seaplane & Boating Destinations
The New Paradigm
Fishing From the Bottom Up “Heli-fun!”
Pacific Northwest Coastal Waterways Island Living and Waterfront Dreams
(photo by Heath Moffat)
VIH Execujet Amphibious Caravan
Two Brothers and a Marina Alaska-Grown Fruit Wine at Its Best Reflections of Boats On the Water Chef Scott Fraser—Whidbey Island, WA Connected and Dry on the Water Copalis Beach, WA • Everett, WA • Lakewood, WA
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Adventure Charters The New Paradigm by Tom Vandall
A
fter more than 60 years of business in the aviation community, Vancouver Island Helicopters (VIH) is stronger than ever, having grown over the years into the VIH Aviation Group, a diversified familyrun conglomerate led and owned today by Chief Executive Officer Ken Norie. Its early history includes a variety of shareholders, including founding 14
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partner Bill Boeing Jr., whose father founded the world’s best-known aerospace company. From its modest beginnings, it eventually saw the arrival of Ken’s father Frank Norie, who was the second Canadian logging operator to own and fly his own helicopter. Frank and his brother Henry partnered early on to build a successful company on Vancouver Island—Norie
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Brothers Logging. They got their joint business start in the early 1940s, and success followed with larger and larger logging ventures. They came to appreciate the value of aircraft to get from one site to another, becoming known as trend-setters in the business use of aircraft. They sought out promising timber stands and surveyed routes for logging roads, using first a Stinson 108-2,
followed by a Seabee Amphibian and then a Bellanca Cruisemaster. Both Frank and Henry became licensed pilots. The Seabee was particularly useful, but it was very restricted when compared with the capabilities and performance of a helicopter. While working on a logging project north of Campbell River, Frank and Henry witnessed first-hand the ease with which the Canadian Forest Service was able to access one of their logging sites with a helicopter. What took them days of effort to access the site took the government foresters mere minutes, as they flew in and landed amidst the timber on a flat rock outcrop. This gave the brothers the incentive to investigate this strange craft and try to fly one before they made a purchase. A Bell 47-G2 was the recommended machine, given its reputation for reliability. Along with the purchase of a well-used G2, Frank needed the support of VIH to overhaul the machine, not to mention training the brothers to fly it. This started the relationship with VIH that resulted with Frank buying out Bill Boeing Jr. in 1975 and becoming a company director. Meanwhile, Frank’s son Ken, who had grown up around his dad’s aircraft, obtained both his fixed- and rotary-wing licenses by the time he was 17. Ken was already working for VIH as a pilot prior to his father becoming a shareholder. VIH was transporting crews for firefighting, mineral exploration and other resource industries. Ken’s career progressed through the company, becoming a pilot instructor, then base manager at Prince Rupert, BC. By 1986 he returned to Victoria as operations manager. Ken and his father Frank were interested in heavy-lift helicopter operations. They tried it, but not everyone in the company felt it would be a success, so by 1990 the shareholders wanted out. This convinced Ken to go out on his own, and with very modest capital, he started VIH Logging. It proved to The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine
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VIP Charters to Canada’s West Coast Resorts Executive Class Comfort and Safety for Seven Pax www.vihexecujet.com
Pick Ups From: • Washington State Airports and Lakes • E.G. Boeing Field • Lake Union • Lake Washington
1-800-277-5421 be a pivotal decision because his company became a successful venture; by the mid-1990s Ken started buying out the shares in VIH and took full ownership by 2000. Ken’s effort to diversify continued with expansion, buying Northern Mountain Helicopters, then Cougar Helicopters, in 2003. Diversification continued with the YYJ FBO (a premium private air terminal at Victoria airport), VIH Aerospace (airframe overhaul, maintenance and parts manufacturing), RotorMax (engine and dynamic-component overhaul) and most recently, VIH Execujet, the fixed- and rotary-wing adventure charter company, all becoming part of the VIH Aviation Group. For his success in diversification and company growth Ken Norie was awarded the 2016 “Entrepreneur of the Year” award by the BC Aviation Council. Today VIH operates both domestically and internationally. Recent charter flights took them to Thailand,
Japan, New Zealand and Hawaii in their Challenger 604 jet airplane while VIH heavy-lift helicopters have operated in Taiwan, Australia, Cameroon, Angola, Peru and Chile, among other countries. VIH is still a family-run business with Ken’s daughter Jen currently the general manager of VIH Helicopters. His son Jeff is the director of maintenance at VIH Aerospace, while his brother Peter is the chief adventure officer for VIH Execujet. Peter Norie, like his brother Ken, grew up with aviation. He remembers his dad purchasing their first helicopter when he was seven years old and “grew up in it.” Like his brother, Pete holds commercial licenses for both fixedwing and rotary-wing aircraft, and has been flying and guiding VIPs on BC’s west coast for more than 20 years. A backcountry adventurist and athlete, Pete is an accomplished boater, fisherman, skier, snowmobiler, windsurfer,
kite boarder, stand-up paddler, and snow-, mountain- and road-biker. He is also a certified angling guide and certified small-vessel operator with Canadian Coast Guard safety training for marine-emergency duties. He also has first-aid and avalanche-safety training. Having an early start working with VIPs in his flying and guiding career, at exclusive resorts like Nimmo Bay, led to working as a private pilot and adventure guide. For most of the last two decades Pete has been bringing west coast adventures to clients, delivering exceptional experiences and memories. When the opportunity came last year to purchase the amphibious Caravan he had been flying since 2008, Pete and Ken jumped at the chance to team up and add this executive-class aircraft to the VIH Execujet fleet. Having also recently added a Bell 206 and 407 to the rotary-wing Execujet fleet, combined with a corporate membership
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to the brand-new Vancouver Island Motorsport Circuit, VIH Execujet is focusing on bring a wide range of adventure charters to a larger group of luxury travelers. They aim to provide something unique and memorable with everything from heli-fishing, and gourmet picnics on mountaintops and glaciers, to floatplane winery tours and exclusive fishing charters. With a full quiver of “toys” in the hangar, including race cars, VIH Execujet is sharing Pete’s passion for adventure with a larger audience. His knowledge and familiarity with many high-end resort owners places VIH Execujet in a unique position of providing guests with relationships and introductions that help make their experiences truly unique. The Caravan, with its swiveling leather seats, mini bar, commissary, state-ofthe-art cockpit and ability to land on water or hard surfaces, fits the bill. Clients that arrive in Seattle, Vancouver or Victoria by first class don’t have to downgrade to the slower, noisy and often cramped experiences of most floatplanes. With the amphibious Caravan, they can continue their journey in VIP luxury in the fastest and quietest floatplane available. The Execujet team can organize and produce adventures from outside the box. It is their passion driving the newest area of diversification for the VIH Group. With Ken and Pete’s combined passion for aviation and adventure, the future looks bright for VIH Execujet.
Looking for a custom charter or adventure tour? VIH Aviation Group 250.889.6269 www.vihexecujet.com 18
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Many Missions – One Aircraft The Kodiak: The bridge between helicopter and business jet. Built tough and safe for extreme missions. Comfort, capacity and economy for business or personal use. A dream to fly on wheels or floats.
CLAY LACY Brad Wollen bwollen@bfi.claylacy.com www.claylacy.com
Clay Lacy Aviation 206.762.2250 8285 Perimeter Road South Seattle, WA 98108
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Ilwaco
From the Bottom Up by Terry W. Sheely
W
hen I kick back and dream of fishing the ocean I visualize gray whales blowing fountains of baleen breath, sleek albatross gliding on endless swells, scrambling anglers, cartwheeling salmon and hard-fighting tuna.
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Milt Gudgell sees sweet black rockfish fillets swimming in lemon and butter, alligator-mean ling cod ... and little Gabby Belles, who will soon have both hands wrapped around her fishing rod, hunched over, cranking madly on the reel handle and giggling like a
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school girl. That’s probably because she is a school girl, one of several sixth- and seventh-graders on board the 43-foot Katie Marie. It’s 5:45 on a blue-sky morning in Ilwaco, Washington, and the infamous Columbia River Bar is uncharacteris-
tically mirror-flat. Sea lions, seals and cormorants cut v-shaped wakes through the colorful wavering reflections of moored boats, breakwaters and pilings. Skipper Rob Gudgell noses the Katie Marie away from the wet docks, toward the scarlet-red buildings of Jessie’s Fish Company, easing past docked working boats and commercial netters. Outriggers and masts catch the low morning sun. We nose into a pier in front of a blue building where a fivefoot sign advertises “Live Anchovies.” A guy hands up a bait bucket of mixed anchovies, sauries and herring, which is dumped on top of a layer of shaved ice. We’re now armed for ugly things. It’s mid-May and we’re at the bottom corner of Washington state on a bottomfish trip with Pacific Salmon Charters, targeting not salmon nor tuna, but big black rockfish and meanfaced ling cod. Nothing pretentious or complicated about this trip—we’re here to belly up to the railing, bang bottom, catch half-a-dozen dinners, watch the kids grow an appreciation for saltwater and enjoy a perfect fishing day.
Ilwaco is sort of the stepchild of Washington ocean-fishing. Smaller and less touristy than Westport in Grays Harbor, the state’s largest ocean port and charter fleet, Ilwaco is another hour’s drive south from the SeattleTacoma population center, at the end of a dead-end highway, pressed against one of the most notorious river bars in North America. It’s also a traditional fishing town, with fresh Dungeness crab, classic ocean boats, a Saturday market, a garlic festival in June, and a neighboring town with 28 miles of oceanfront sand that boasts of “The World’s Longest Beach.” The small dunes, bent sea grass and miles of surf-rolled sand of the Long Beach Peninsula are just outside my second-floor room at the Chautauqua Lodge Resort, up the road from Ilwaco Harbor, a little past the Long Beach Bakery and Marsh’s Free Museum— home of “Jake the Alligator Man.” Milt nurses a coffee, teases the eager kids and watches his son Rob feather the boat through the harbor clutter. Milt has been fishing these waters for four decades. He and his wife Sarah
built Pacific Salmon Charters into the largest charter fleet in town, grew their sons into skippers, and added a fishprocessing plant and gift shop. His seven charter boats, ranging from 27
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to 56 feet, run in-season for Chinook and coho salmon, halibut, albacore tuna, catch-and-release sturgeon and bottomfish. Today—two months before prime salmon season, three before tuna—is a
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bottomfish morning in Ilwaco, and as Milt says, “everybody catches fish; limits are pretty much the rule.” The limits are big: seven rockfish and two lings each. We skirt a pile of barking sea lions, nod a thank-you at the passive Columbia
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Bar and head south toward a ling-cod reef off Cannon Beach, Oregon. Our Washington fishing licenses are good in the ocean off both states. The kids are here because Milt donated their trip as an achievement
reward, but mostly “to show kids there’s more to life than electronic games and computers. If I had my way,” Milt says, “every new fisherman—young or old—would start on rockfish and lingcod. When we get into ‘em, every rod goes down. Everybody catches fish. They have a great time, they go home with a bunch of great eating and everybody gets hooked on fishing.” “Hooked” is right. Bottomfish are a gateway adventure that leads to a lifelong ocean addiction. A couple of other boats are banging the reef when we arrive. Six-foot, sixinch rods are handed out, loaded with 24-ounces of lead on a spreader bar, sweetened with baitfish and backed up with a plastic worm. Scott Tews breaks the ice with a keeper ling, loses a big one at boat side, releases two small ones and finishes his ling limit with a perfect eater. Every rod in our boat that isn’t out of commission is bent with a pulsating
fish. The kids laugh and crank and gasp when they look inside their lings’ mouths at rows of needle-sharp fangs. When the bite starts, it gets hot and stays hot, until the boat is limited on lings. Joey Fitzgerald catches several lings; Bethany Martin grins and brings a fish up from the bottom that’s half as long as she is tall. Gabby Belles lands her first ling and proudly poses with her mother, while Chloe Martin ignores it all. She’s all business, fighting a nice ling and when it’s over Chloe happily poses with Milt. When the last ling hits the fish box, Rob picks anchor and points the boat toward Tillamook Lighthouse, north of Seaside, Oregon. The lighthouse, now deactivated, rises from an acre of salt-blasted basalt rock a mile offshore from Tillamook Head. Waves slap the base, explode and wash across dozens of resting sea lions. Between the land and the lighthouse Rob parks the Katie Marie on a kelp The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine
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bed that marks an underwater reef that must be bulging with schools of big black rockfish. Rob takes off the ling cod spreader-bars, puts on two-hook ganglions baited with anchovies and sauries, and just that fast we’re into fish. Some rods bend to the waterline, straining with two black rockfish at a time. Someone catches a wolf eel, four feet of purple-splotched, writhing teeth. It’s gingerly released. Black rockfish are school predators, aggressive, quick to strike, hard fighters and they taste oh-so-sweet. The kids love action—every fisherman does—and black rockfish provide plenty of it. Drop to the bottom, reel up until we feel a strike, set the hook, pause and try to get a second fish on the second hook. The deckhand is scrambling; the kids are laughing, Milt’s instructing, and fish are gobbling every bit of bait that hits the water. Several times in the clear water I see opportunistic rockfish following a hooked fish to the surface, darting in trying to steal the bait. Bottom-fishing starts at Ilwaco in April and runs until the end of September. Milt and the other charters target multiple reefs, flats and rockfish pinnacles on the northern Oregon and southern Washington coasts. There’s no shortage of fish, or good fishing spots. By 2 p.m. we’re over the bar, passing Sand Island, nosing toward the marina docks. I lean on the railing and watch the world, the afternoon sun warm on my shoulders. Nine fat fish are on ice, with my name on them. On the left are weathered cliffs and shattered trees that mark Cape Disappointment—the end of Lewis and Clark’s epic expedition with the Corps of Discovery. The fish box is full, there’s laughter in the cabin, the Columbia Bar is still flat and the spring weather is perfect. If Lewis and Clark had fished with Milt and Rob on the Katie Marie I’m confident the cape would have a different name.
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Sails, ales & happy trails The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine
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Alaska Ultimate Safaris by Russ Young
W
e’re buckled in our seats, headsets on so we can hear our pilot talking to us. The engine starts, and the overhead rotor
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begins turning slowly, gaining speed with each rotation. We’re going to take off soon, flying across Beluga Lake and the Homer
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Spit, then Alaska’s Kachemak Bay, toward the glaciers that still carve up the Kenai Mountains. And there is only one thing on my
mind right now: my first helicopter ride, in 1977. I was a 22 year-old civilian contractor working for the United States Navy. We were working on a video about the Navy’s research-anddevelopment facilities on San Diego’s Point Loma, and I was rapidly regretting that I had suggested we include some aerial footage. The sliding door of the Navy Sikorsky Seahorse helicopter was open wide, as we are flying around several hundred feet off the ground at what
seemed like a 90-degree bank angle. The cameraman (a Marine Corps veteran who had served in Vietnam) and the Navy crew chief (a grizzled chief petty officer who was chomping on an unlit cigar) were both sitting on the threshold with their legs dangling. All three of us were wearing sturdy safety harnesses, but I pinned myself against the other side of the fuselage, hoping that the experience would end sooner than later. Even as we hovered with the helicopter level, the “yaw”—the side-to-side motion
of the aircraft—seemed to describe well the way my stomach was feeling. So although I have since flown hundreds of thousands—perhaps millions?—of miles in airplanes, there was no shortage of trepidation as we were about to lift off on my second helicopter flight with Eric Lee, our pilot/guide and owner of Alaska Ultimate Safaris. Surprisingly, my apprehension disappeared within a nanosecond. (Well, okay ... maybe it took a minute or two.) Eric’s five-seat Robinson RH-66 helicopter is the lap of luxury, at least when
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compared to a US Navy Seahorse. There is no sliding door to leave open, but the ample windows and the comfortable seats are well-suited to aerial sightseeing. The cabin temperature was very comfortable; the noise level was a fraction of the vintage Navy helicopter. And then there is Eric himself—a steady hand at the controls, who comes off as laser-focused on his passengers’ safety as he is easygoing and humorous. He took full advantage of his bright-red helicopter’s capabilities to show us some amazing scenery, including “rafts” of otters on the bay, sheer cliffs, soaring bald eagles, mountain goats that also seem to defy gravity, the deep crevasses that cleave the glacial ribbons of ice and amazing morraines—”rivers of rock” formed where glaciers have rolled and shaped them. Although our flight was in late August, the unmistakable colors of autumn were splashed on the landscape, along with the white of the snow and the puffy clouds, and the patches of blue sky. Many of the rivers and streams run gray, evidence that they are full of glacial silt. They make amazing plumes where they empty into Kachemak Bay—especially when viewed from above at a slow hover. Eric and his partner Kirsten Rasmussen (see sidebar) specialize in helicopter bear viewing—they guarantee you’ll see Alaska’s ursine wonders—to Katmai and Lake Clark National Parks. You depart from their wooden helipad at the edge of Beluga Lake in Homer on a trip of up to seven hours, including up to five hours on the ground with the bears and some “unmatched” scenery on your way to and from the bears. Although prices starting at $699 per person may seem daunting, they include snacks, non-alcoholic beverages, binoculars, hip waders, rain pants and jackets, and even extra batteries and data cards that are compatible with most cameras. And of course, the prices include the experience, knowledge and training 28
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that Kirsten and Eric bring both in the air and on the ground. (Once they have landed and secured the helicopter, rest assured that your pilot will be accompanying you as a bear guide.) But there’s more: they also offer “fire safaris” to the Augustine Volcano in the Cook Inlet, “ice safaris” to the Harding Icefield in the Kenai Mountains and guided heli-hikes that offer memorable views from the air, mountaintops, glaciers and/or flat ground. But today, Eric has a surprise detour on our sightseeing flight: we’re about to land at the base of the Dixon Glacier. After a baby-soft landing on flat, rocky ground near the ice, we realize that Shyla, my traveling companion, has worn high-heeled boots because she thought we were going to stay aloft for the afternoon, But Shyla’s not going to miss out on the opportunity to walk up to this incredible moving river of ice, so she sets off across the rocky ground. (I’m wearing my hiking boots, so I have her arm in case she stumbles. She doesn’t ... although I do, at least a half-dozen times. Eric is so impressed he takes a few close-up photos of her footwear, while trying not to chuckle at my footfalls.) Finding yourself face-to-face with a glacier is an amazing experience. Although you can’t sense any motion, you know the ice is flowing, with such incredible power that it is moving and grinding solid rock. And although it may be difficult to realize the scale, once you realize that the stream running from beneath the ice is really a small river, you begin to grasp the natural wonder that you’re there to behold. I could have stood there in amazement for hours, but I was equally eager to take in more aerial views of the 49th State. I’ve now flown on helicopters twice in my life. They will be both be lifelong memories, for completely opposite reasons. I can’t wait for another opportunity to have Alaska Ultimate Safaris make it two out of three positive experiences. 30
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Eric Lee and Kirsten Rasmussen Alaska Ultimate Safaris — Homer, Alaska
When you meet Kirsten and Eric, it’s almost guaranteed that the first thing you will think is that they look far too young to have more than 40 years of combined piloting experience. That’s due in part to the fact that he began flying when he was 15; the explanation for her is that she absolutely loves what she does and where she lives. Kirsten’s an Alaska native— she’s originally from Fairbanks—who
learned to fly near the mountains of Utah, while Eric is a Wisconsin transplant of more than 20 years. He pioneered helicopter bear viewing, while she also works as a medevac (medical evacuation) pilot. And while, like so many Alaskans, they both fish, Eric says that Kirsten “is really, really good.” Although much of their aviation experience comes from flying fixed-wing airplanes, they were
both quick to realize the opportunity that the vertical takeoff and landing capability of helicopters offers in terms of accessing the wildlife and amazing scenery of the Last Frontier. As a result, they like to add the word “heli-” to describing the experiences they share with their passengers: “heli-hiking,” “heli-fishing, “heli-camping.” And “heli-fun.”
Plan your trip: Alaska Ultimate Safaris Beluga Lake Homer, AL 99603 888.696.bear (2327) 907.299.2719 www.alaskaultimatesafaris.com
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IDENTIFICATION OF COMMON GROUNDFISH SPECIES (of Washington, Oregon and Northern California)
Anglers are responsible for knowing current fishing regulations, which can change frequently. Check the state website for up-to-date information.
Yelloweye Rockfish
Canary Rockfish (Slightly indented tail)
Adult
(Smooth jawline)
Juvenile
Bright yellow eye and raspy ridges above eye. Fins usually have black edges. Juveniles have 1 or 2 white stripes along side of body.
Tiger Rockfish
Dark Version
Variants
(Smooth jawline)
Variants
(Gray lateral line)
(Anal fin slanted)
Typically three stripes across side of head and gill plate. Body orange mottled with gray.
Vermilion Rockfish
Pink Version
Strong ridges between eyes. 5 or 6 vertical bars on body.
Lower jawline rough to touch. Body reddish and mottled with gray. Anal fin rounded.
Black Rockfish
Deacon Rockfish
Large mouth. Body mottled with gray. White belly. Black spots on the dorsal membrane.
Small mouth with extendedlower lip. Vague stripes across forehead. Blue-tipped pelvic fins. Many small speckles covering sides of body.
Bocaccio Rockfish
Blue Rockfish
Large mouth extending upwards. Slightly concave between mouth and dorsal fin. Body orange, olive or brown.
Small mouth. Vague stripes across forehead. Bluetipped pelvic fins. Large angular blotches on sides of body. Photos courtesy Vicky Okimura; WDFW
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REV. 2016
Quillback Rockfish
Copper Rockfish
(Deep indentations in dorsal fin)
Variants
Variants
Light colored band along the last 2/3 of lateral line.
Freckles on head and/or throat. Yellowish saddle markings do not extend to tail.
Yellowtail Rockfish
China Rockfish
Fins yellowish, large mouth. May have pale patches or spots on back. May be confused with Olive Rockfish.
Widow Rockfish
Broad yellow stripe starting on dorsal fin, along lateral line. Yellowish white freckles.
Brown Rockfish
Dark brown patch or spot on gill cover. Underside of throat and lower jaw pinkish. Fins may be pinkish.
Small mouth, anal fin slanted posteriorly.
Kelp Greenling
Cabezon
Lingcod
Flap of skin above eye and on snout. Huge mouth, small teeth. Body marbled. Smooth skin.
Large mouth and large teeth. Deep notch in long dorsal fin. Elongated body. Smooth skin.
Male Female Small mouth, small teeth. Blue spots may be faint except when breeding, when they become almost neon. Reddish spots on female. Smooth skin.
wdfw.wa.gov
dfw.state.or.us
wildlife.ca.gov Photos courtesy Vicky Okimura; WDFW
The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine
psmfc.org REV. 2016
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Cape Flattery
Neah Bay
Tatoosh I.
Bamfield
False Bay
Lopez Airport
Friday Harbor
Clallam Bay
Sekiu
SAN JUAN ISLANDS
Lime Kiln Pt.
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GULF ISLANDS
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Port Washington
Sechelt
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MONTAGUE HARBOUR
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Nanaimo to Olympia
Puget Sound
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Waterfront Living in the Pacific Northwest
40
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Island Living and Waterfront Dreams by Jean Groesbeck
The Pacific Northwest is known for its breathtaking beauty, lush green foliage, soaring bald eagles, and of course, our local pods of orcas hunting for salmon in the Salish Sea. However, what is the most impressive about the area isn’t the sea, but the land. Nearly 700 islands (many just large rocks visible only at low tide) create an amazing diversity of waterfront environments. Large tide swings create river-like currents rushing through the islands, which is best demonstrated at Deception Pass in Washington. The water flow confusingly alternates directions during ebb and flow tides, mesmerizing nature seekers from all over the globe. The Northwest offers convenient year-round “island-living-bybridge” options with communities on Camano, Whidbey and Fidalgo Islands. The more populated islands accessible by ferry are popular as tourist destinations and summer homes, with a small population that stay year-round, shifting down to the slow pace of winter life. Islands only accessible by private boat, plane, or water taxi are even more sparsely populated, and the numbers of birds outnumber the humans, even during the summer months. Those seeking waterfront homes have differing visions of how they imagine themselves enjoying waterfront living. Some envision a typical movie scene: wearing a fisherman’s knit sweater, while taking a The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine
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long romantic sunrise stroll on a sandy beach arm-in-arm with the one they love. That is difficult to achieve in the San Juan Islands—not love, as the beauty of nature is inspiring—but sandy beaches are limited in the islands. Although there are some beautiful sandy coves, the long sandy beaches are on the Pacific coast of Washington, not in the San Juans. These island beaches are full of tide pools, seaweed, and rocks hiding thousands of creatures battling for survival. Hollywood-inspired visions aside, the shores of San Juan Islands provide plenty of options for fantasy living, with the bonus of a drier and sunnier climate than Seattle. Kayaking, crabbing, clamming, fishing, sailing, birdwatching, whale watching, hiking, biking, boating, beachcombing, scuba diving and exploring tide pools are just some of the popular activities. Sunrises create light shows as the sun’s rays bounce off the islands, turning them from purple to blue, revealing the green trees with dots of homes sprinkled throughout. There are no shortages of romantic sunsets over the water, followed by the glow of the islands backlit by the lights of British Columbia. The drive-on islands provide the most amenities with restaurants, grocery stores and other shopping options easy to reach. Anacortes on Fidalgo Island is the largest such city, with a population approaching 20,000. It is the departure point for the state ferries going to the San Juans, but it has become a retirement resort community providing convenient living with all the amenities of island life. Traveling to San Juan, Orcas, Lopez, and Shaw Islands adds a degree of remoteness which buffers island life from the real world, with an hour-long, stress-reducing ferry ride. A slower pace, less shopping and fewer restaurants result in more time spent enjoying the outdoors. 42
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The migration to the more remote islands includes a desire to go back to the simpler way of life that these destinations provide. Limited cellularservice is a plus to parents that want to have conversations with their children; one can even spot teenagers without a cell phone in their hand! Family interaction is unavoidable and entertainment is provided by exploring nature, reading, painting, writing ‌ it is no wonder that so many artists live throughout the islands. Retirees are the most diverse group of waterfront dreamers. Some plan to spend every minute they can outdoors, doing the things they have not had enough time to do. Others are looking to create a family-destination venue, a grandkid magnet, where memories that will live beyond them can be created. Some retirees just want the peace and serenity that a calm sea brings, as well as the excitement and energy of winter storms. Sound is also an element of living at the water’s edge. Eagles, blue herons, owls, swans, doves, seagulls and 300 other species of birds make an empty sky an uncommon occurrence, with each species singing their own language. Living along a bay will provide amazing birdwatching as the different species work the beach at low tide. Alternatively, living on a point of land that juts out will likely be surrounded by higher-energy wave action. The rocky shoreline will provide sounds of waves splashing against the rocks as birds dive for the bait fish that are stirred up by the current. Island living is growing as the economy enables more people to vacation in the region, resulting in tourists falling in love with the Northwest lifestyle. It is no surprise that the people from all over are flocking to the Northwest to capture the dream of waterfront living. It is an region that, when discovered by visitors, somehow reaches their inner spirit and calls to them to stay. Once exposed to waterfront living and the 44
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magnificent splendor it offers, visitors want to purchase their place in paradise. The result is a growing demand for second homes in waterside communities, from rustic cabins to magnificent estates with architectural masterpieces. It is both fun and interesting to counsel dream hunters to determine what waterfront lifestyle they are seeking, then to determine which island, and where on that island, is the best fit to fulfill their dream. The islands are low-stress zones; a “traffic jam� is waiting for a small blacktail deer to cross the road, and the day’s schedule is determined by tides, not a clock. No place is perfect, but waterfront living in the Pacific Northwest is as close as it gets.
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SAN JUAN ISLAND to connect
TEXT BeOnSanJuan to 85377 800-262-3596 BeOnSanJuan.com
Captivating. Private. Distinct. Unparalleled & unobstructed 180 degree views sweeping across Haro Strait; south from the Olympic Mountains, west to the twinkling lights of Victoria, B.C. & up north to the Canadian Gulf Isles from this pristine estate sited on nearly 11 private acres. Watch the eagles soar, hear the Orcas play, relish in breathtaking & dramatic sunsets, & entertain guests from several thousand sf of decking overlooking the very best the San Juan Islands offer. A sight to behold. MLS# 1094224 $2,300,000
Perfectly-placed waterfront home. Meticulously kept and tastefully updated to preserve its timeless appeal, the main house features an open design, with floor-to-ceiling windows framing w/f views from the gourmet kitchen, master suite (w/fp) and library. The detached 3-car garage has full guest accommodations. The natural landscape is easy to maintain. Septic and well on 2nd lot. Lots total 2.28 acres and 448'w/f. MLS#930097, $2,100,000.
Situated along its own breath-taking beachfront, this single-level 3 bedroom home is a place to build island memories. Built near the water's edge, one can enjoy the knock-out view & sound of the waves from the house or take the stairway to the beach for a stroll or a kayak paddle. Recently renovated including new roof, paint, flooring, windows, deck & more. The kitchen offers an expansive cooktop & granite countertop. Mature orchard, attached garage & detached studio/guest space w/ bath. MLS#1066644, $649,000.
Fish Canadian waters from Stuart Island. EVERYTHING you need to enjoy a sojourn to this island paradise is included: Furniture and furnishings, linens, bedding, fully equipped kitchen, guest cabin, golf cart, 7ft inflatable dingy, 1 person kayak, crab & shrimp pots, large barbecue, 2 hammocks, 4 deck chairs and umbrella, tools, community dingy dock & beaches, barge ramp. MLS#763963, $250,000.
This exceptionally beautiful 3 acres, 350’ low bank waterfront boasts a 3 bedroom, 1.75 bath with a well, septic and private beach. Sunshine abounds from this sheltered beachfront point which also includes a hangar lot steps away from the 2000’ grass runway. Close to the prime Canadian fishing waters, Stuart Island Airway Park offers a dingy dock, boat launch, barge ramp, two beaches and a 2000' grass runway. MLS#970920, $548,000.
Roche Harbor airport home with hangar! Charming 3 bedroom 2 bath 1,700 sqft home located in a peaceful neighborhood near Roche Harbor. 1.6 sunny acres. Property features a 30 x 60 Airplane Hangar suitable for 2 small planes.. Large 2 car detached garage with ample space for a shop. No more need to take the ferry to get to the San Juans, just take your plane! MLS #1081182, $595,000.
A rare opportunity for 76 acs of beautiful land on SJI. 2 PARCELS w/multiple valley views & home site options. Serene & private, wooded areas, abundant pasture, seasonal stream & all day sun w/spectacular sunsets. Large fenced areas, loafing sheds; 2 dry lot paddocks & 2 in pasture. Water piped to pastures. Excellent spacious multi functional 4,000 S.F. SHOP on slab w/loading door, ridge skylight adds abundant natural light. Ele. & propane. Lg Greenhouse for year round gardening. Don't miss out! MLS#808931 $750,000
Waterfront rental in Roche Harbor neighborhood. Unobstructed views of Spieden Channel boat traffic. Close to Roche Harbor amenities. Lg deck, hot tub, community beach. MLS#634782, $869,000
WindermereSJI.com
A full-service graphic design firm in Seattle, WA
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advertising, art, boat graphics, books, blogs, e-books, branding, identity, illustration, finanicial reports, flyers, magazines, marketing material, newsletters, photography, retouching, signage, stationery, wall decor, web design
Quartermaster Harbor
SEAPLANE HANGAR
Vashon Island, WA I $1,520,000 MLS # 1075223 A rare opportunity for seaplane enthusiasts!
• West facing 15 acres w/300 ft of NO BANK waterfront. • Water & power installed on property. • 2500 square foot Erect-a-Tube seaplane hangar. • Newly installed road winds through a forested valley. • All the fun water sports, beach combing and beautiful migrating water fowl are here to enjoy.
Adjacent home available under MSL # 1075383 Julie A. Friedman I 206-679-8800 friedman@windermere.com
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Two Brothers and a Marina Genoa Bay, BC by Deane Hislop
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hen brothers Will and Ben Kiedaisch assumed ownership of the Genoa Bay Marina in 1997, they inherited outstanding bills, the electricity was in danger of being turned off and the bank was about to foreclose on the property. Despite those odds, the Kiedaisch brothers have turned Genoa Bay into a must-stop for Pacific Northwest boaters. Genoa Bay, British Columbia is a quaint little settlement nestled in a quiet and picturesque bay on southeast Vancouver Island, at the southern end of Sansum Narrows in BC’s beautiful Gulf Islands. It was named by pioneer settler Giovanni Baptiste Ordano in 1858 because it reminded him of his home in Italy. The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine
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The Kiedasch brothers are California transplants. In 1971, when they were children, their family relocated from the U.S. to Nanaimo, BC, which led to their father co-owning the marina for more than 20 years. After the passing of their father the brothers had a couple of options: let the bank foreclose or operate the weathered marina. Will is the elder of the two, with an education in sales and marketing; Ben is trained in the culinary arts. Working in their respective fields at the time, they opted for career and lifestyle changes and took over the marina. They have come a long way since then. Their progress is the result of hard work and a pinch of luck, seasoned with huge doses of humor. The brothers and their friendly staff have earned a reputation for making visiting boaters feel at home. Their good nature is reflected in the character of the marina itself. It’s a feel-good place; the kind of place that gives you a sense of pride and a feeling of ownership. And boaters have responded—Genoa Bay is a favorite stop for more than 4,000 visiting boats annually. Ask Ben what the marina’s stylish logo represents, and he responds characteristically, saying, “What do you want it to be? If you’re a sailor, it’s a sail. If you’re a power boater, it’s a crescent moon. We aim to please.” The entrance into the bay is wide, open and has a clearly marked straight approach. Berth assignments are available by hailing the marina on the VHF. The marina crew monitors VHF Ch. 66A from April through October. Because of the rugged local topography, they can’t receive hailings until boats are close by. Genoa Bay Marina is charming, funky and postcard-picturesque. It occupies the site of a former sawmill, said to have been one of BC’s largest at the turn of the century. A colorful and eclectic mix of vessels, boathouses and floating homes fill the western portion of the marina. The emerald-green bay is surrounded by steep, forested hillsides. 50
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The marina offers 1,200 linear feet of wide and stable transient-floats, supplied with water and 30- and 50-amp power. The water comes from the marina’s well and is augmented with a desalination system. Boats up to 120 feet can be accommodated on the guest-moorage floats. Larger vessels will find plenty of anchorage in the bay over a sticky mud bottom. The marina is adorned with attractive local art; a fiberglass orca leaps from an intersection of two floats, while a great blue heron constructed of wire is perched on a large pile of metal saw-filings from the sawmill that occupied the site 100 years ago. Nearly every boathouse supports some kind of art. There’s plenty to enjoy here once you’re settled. Watch eagles soaring overhead. Listen to the breeze stirring in the treetops, while otters, seals and cormorants provide endless aquatic entertainment. For a minimal fee you can access email via the dock’s Wi-Fi
network. You can take a taxi for a round of golf or a shopping excursion in nearby Duncan, drop by the tasting rooms of the area’s many vineyards ... or just put your feet up and do nothing at all. At the head of the guest floats, the marina store carries an eclectic mix of local products, coffee and snacks, groceries, nautical books and magazines, marine supplies, souvenirs, ice, and a full line of Genoa Bay shirts, jackets and hats. Adjacent to the activity dock is a breakfast cabana (open Thursday through Monday in July and August) that is a gathering place for the morning crowd. The covered activity-dock accommodates visiting yacht-club rendezvous potlucks or impromptu dock parties. Upland facilities include an excellent restaurant, clean and spacious showers and restrooms, and coin-operated laundry. A visit to Genoa Bay would not be complete without a meal, or two, at
SOUTH WHIDBEY HARBOR A Boating Paradise
Located on Saratoga Passage on beautiful Whidbey Island: • Moorage for vessels up to 130’ • Dockside assistance 7 days a week • Restaurants, Shops, and Galleries • Ideal for clubs and groups • Spectacular views • Reservations recommended www.portofsouthwhidbey.com
360.221.1120
Port of
South Whidbey
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the Genoa Bay Café. Open seven days a week from June through September, it’s perched on the water’s edge overlooking the marina. The café offers five-star quality cuisine in a casual atmosphere. Its menu provides a variety of choices and showcases the foods of Vancouver Island and the Pacific Northwest. The combination of the view, smell and taste provide meals with sensory overload. For those floatplane pilots who want to drop in for a meal, there’s not a dedicated dock, but with some precoordination the marina crew can accommodate a floatplane. If you feel the need to work off some of those calories or just want to stretch your sea legs, the moderately easy hike up the trail from the marina to Skinner Bluff on Mount Tzuohalem (pronounced zoo-hay-lum) offers great views of Cowichan Bay and a good, light workout. Back at the marina, out on the docks, visit the Genoa Bay Gallery, the workplace and home of owner Colleen Irwin. Her collection features nautical and wildlife pieces by local artists. Or take the 20-minute Greylag Boat Tours shuttle to Cowichan Bay and its many shops. Licensed to carry 12 passengers, the 28-foot Greylag was built in 1944 in Victoria as a captain’s gig for the Canadian Navy. On the final morning of our visit I walked the docks, with the aroma of fresh coffee and breakfast filling the air, and the sound of whistling teapots adding to the tranquil morning, making for a memorable Genoa Bay experience. The marina is open year-round and is worth a visit.
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The Early Days, in Their Own Words The Kiedaisch brothers have come a long way from the uncertain early days of their marina ownership. “We didn’t know port from starboard when we took over,” said Will, laughing. “We had to learn how to run a marina from the ground up.” “We didn’t even own a boat, and the first tool we had to buy was a bolt cutter, because the marina was locked and abandoned.” recalled Ben. When their first visitor asked how much they charged, the brothers asked him what he paid where he had stayed the previous night. “During the first summer, our Uncle Jim was the wharfinger.” Ben said. “Because he was an ex-Navy man, we had great faith in his nautical knowledge, but it was shaken when a visitor asked him where they could find the wharfinger and he responded, “Don’t have that boat here.” From those humble beginnings, the Kiedaisch brothers have turned Genoa Bay Marina into the kind of place you don’t want to leave after just a few days. The service is second to none, and everyone involved in running the marina loves what they do. When Will and his wife Karen first came to Genoa Bay to operate the marine they had two young children. Ben and his wife Kirsten had no kids, and in the early years lived in a floating home in the marina. Today Will’s kids are teenagers, and Ben has two pre-teen children and lives upland. “The marina is not the only thing that has changed over the years,” Will said.
Your oasis on British Columbia’s wild coast Blind Channel Resort is the perfect base for your BC island vacation. The Richter family invites you to enjoy deluxe, ocean view cabins with kitchenettes and barbecues, premier moorage facilities, and casual fine dining in the seaside restaurant and patio.
info@blindchannel.com
VHF Channel 66A
www.blindchannel.com
1-888-329-0475
Author Deane Hislop and wife Arlene at Genoa Bay.
When you visit: Charts: 3478 and Gulf Islands Atlas 3313 Marina: www.genoabaymarina.com Café: www.genoabaycafe.com Greylag Boat Tours: www.greylagtours.com Nearest Fuel: Cowichan Bay
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Bear Creek Winery & Lodging by Russ Young
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here are a variety of terms that many wine snobs (like me) often use to describe fruit wines (i.e., those wines that are made from fruits other than grapes). Those terms range from “meh” to “yuck.” But if my fellow snobs think about why that is, they may well realize they have based their thinking on their youthful experiences drinking fruitblend wines like Annie Green Springs
and Boone’s Farm. (Full disclosure: I started college in 1973, so I can relate). And if so, they owe it to themselves to visit the Bear Creek Winery and taste their wines. (Further disclosure: I have, and did not utter a single “meh,” and certainly not a “yuck.”) Although wine tasting is not one of the activities that comes to mind when visiting the Kenai Peninsula town of Homer, Alaska, you will not regret
adding a visit to Bear Creek Winery & Lodging to your itinerary. When owners Bill and Dorothy Fry (see sidebar) began dabbling in making fruit wines as a “garage hobby” more than 25 years ago, they never dreamed that it would become a seven-daya-week business that now produces 8,000 cases of wine per year. The tasting room and suites are both open year-round. And they have a brisk online business; they can ship wine to
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36 US states. Their nearby production facility, which has a heated floor and loading dock, can fill, seal and label 2.500 bottles per hour. Similarly, when they built a pair of suites on adjacent to their home in 2003, they likely did not envision that their accommodations would be recommended by both TripAdvisor and Lonely Planet. It’s clear that when Dorothy and Bill commit to something, they jump in with both feet. Talk with them for a few minutes—and if you visit, it’s likely you will—and their enthusiasm and joy about what they do is visible, if not contagious. (Like so many other businesses in Homer, you’re going to find that the Fry family and their employees are incredibly friendly, even when they are in the thick of the summer tourist season.) And “jumping in with both feet” means trying to make wines from almost any fruit they can get their hands on, including raspberries, blueberries, strawberries, gooseberries, elderberries and cranberries, in addition to apples, rhubarb, pomegranates, black currants, kiwi fruit, pears, peaches and apricots. And they produce fruit-andgrape blends using shiraz, merlot and chardonnay. In all, they have produced more than 25 different varieties, so it is hard to believe that Bear Creek has not produced at least one wine that will appeal to even the most snobbish of palates. There’s one way to find out, and that’s by tasting. For only $5—refundable with the purchase of one or more bottles—you can try as many as eight different wines, while enjoying snacks from the adjacent kitchen and chatting with Bill, Dorothy and their employees. Two favorites emerged during our visit, which I’ll let the winemakers describe to you. The first was Blueberry Mirlo, which is 40 percent berries and 60 percent grape wine: “A crowd pleasing, fruit-forward special blend. Look 56
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no further when shopping for your next wine-and-cheese gathering to share something new and fun. Try it with Havarti, Brie, Feta, mild brick, cheese fondue and mild cheddar. Perfectly complements Stilton cheese as well, which makes the blueberry flavor just pop! The sweetness of the blueberry complements the strong, spicy flavors of the Stilton. Also pairs well with smoked meat, nuts, salmon, spicy tomato-based sauces and steak.” Prefer something lighter? We liked Spring Harvest, a rhubarb wine that “defines the true image of an Alaskan wine and is easy on the palate. Imagine sipping a cool, perfect glass of wine while sitting on the deck on a sunny afternoon, overlooking Kachemak Bay. Pairs perfectly with spicy dishes; Asian-, Italian-, Mexican- and Indianinfluenced dishes especially. Try it with gumbo or jambalaya.” Considering that the town of Homer is the “Halibut Fishing Capital of the World,” and a place where Alaskan crab is truly “king,” I would be remiss in not mentioning Alaskan Chardonnay, “the seafood wine! A perfect blend of rhubarb and chardonnay. Pairs perfectly with halibut, crab, shrimp, oysters, cod, scallops, rockfish and salmon. Try it with homemade macaroni and cheese, or smoked halibut.” (Dorothy brought us some of Bill’s smoked halibut to accompany the wine. It was magnificent.) Don’t drink wine? That’s okay. The winery and the surrounding property are still worth a visit. Like any self-respecting tasting room, there’s a gift shop. You can walk the grounds, which, while surrounded by a tall fence to keep out deer and moose, are popular for weddings and special events. There’s a bandstand/gazebo and a koi pond that also hosts a number of turtles. (It’s equipped with a pool heater to keep the inhabitants warm and happy during the winter.) The koi pond is adjacent to the suites (i.e., the “Lodging” in “Bear Creek Winery & Lodging.”) The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine
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There are two suites, and their popularity is such that you will want to make reservations well in advance, although you can easily check their availability via the Bear Creek website. The Arctic Suite sleeps two in a queen bed; the Cowboy Suite accommodates three with a queen bed and a fold-out loveseat. Both include a complimentary bottle of wine, free tasting, chocolate truffles, breakfast at a local restaurant, coffee and tea. There is free Wi-Fi, a flat screen TV, kitchenette and cooking/dining utensils. Use of the hot tub, horseshoe pits, fire pit and gas grills are included. Even if you’re a wine snob, I’m betting that something about a visit to Bear Creek Winery & Lodging will rate better than a “meh.” And a “yuck?” No way ... 60
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Bill and Dorothy Fry Bear Creek Winery & Lodgings — Homer, Alaska
It started off so simply. When Bill Fry sampled a friend’s homemade rhubarb wine about 20 years ago, he thought he’d try making his own. So he did. At first his hobby fit onto his family’s kitchen counter, but it grew to require more space, relocating to the garage. Bill’s early efforts also included making wine from raspberries, blueberries and kiwi fruit. It became what Dorothy calls a “hobby run amok,” so in 2004 they opened their winery, initially buying fruit from their neighbors, making batches in 5-gallon glass “carboy” jugs and making labels on their home-computer printer. Surprisingly, Bill had never visited a winery before establishing his own. Natives of Santa Barbara, California, the couple came to Alaska in the mid 1970s when he was seeking work as an engineer on the North Slope oil fields. Prior to that happening, they started a (water) well-drilling business before moving to Homer in 1986.
Bill says one of the biggest challenges they face is sourcing enough locally grown fruit: “there’s nothing better than Alaska berries.” To that end, they grow five acres of apples and berries on property that’s adjacent to their winery/lodge. The Frys employ seven year-round and five more during the summer. The parents of two daughters, they have a son-inlaw who may take over when they decide to retire. “Best of all for him, he can walk to work every day,” said Dorothy.
When you visit: Bear Creek Winery and Lodging 60203 Bear Creek Dr. Homer, AK 99603 907.235.8484 www.bearcreekwinery.com
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HARBO R S happenings HA RB O R S happenings H A R B O R S happenings
Reflections on the Water Photo by Richard Duval www.duvalimages.com
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OUR MISSION • Protect and grow seaplane access to Washington waters • Promote safe and responsible seaplane operations • Foster communications among owners, operators, service providers and the community • Facilitate events sharing the joy of seaplane flying in Washington and the Pacific Northwest
2017 EVENTS
• May 12-14 – Poulsbo, WA – Splash In • August 21-23 – Oregon Eclipse Trip • Sept. 8-10 – Priest Lake Idaho – Splash In www.washingtonseaplanepilots.org
DON’T MISS OUR NEXT ISSUE
July/August 2017
ICON A5 Up Close and Personal
Princess Louisa Inlet Halibut Cove, AK USD $6.95 CAN $7.95
Northern Lights Chef Tom Douglas
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ANNUAL AUCTION!
SCLERODERMA FOUNDATION WASHINGTON EVERGREEN CHAPTER INVITES YOU TO OUR AUCTION AND HOLLYWOOD PARTY!
SATURDAY MAY 13, 2017 RAINIER GOLF & COUNTRY CLUB SEATTLE, WA
For Tickets and to View Auction Items, Visit http://scleroderma.maestroweb.com www.scleroderma.org/washington
Gift Cards Available Are you looking for a SMASHING and AWARD-WINNING Trade Show Exhibit or Display?
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www.dukeschowderhouse.com
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Pacific Northwest Celebrity Chefs
featuring
Chef Scott Fraser
Scott Fraser graduated from the French-focused Pierre Dubrulle Culinary School in Vancouver, BC, where he learned the importance of understanding food. Scott creates a seasonal menu that takes advantage of the freshest local ingredients and promotes the bounty of the Pacific Northwest. He believes that attention to detail and a pampering of the senses is what people are looking for in a culinary experience. Scott has a creative palette that takes food beyond the expected to expand a guest’s experience—all of this paired with fabulous, vibrant Northwest and West Coast wines. A chef for more than 30 years, Scott trained and worked for several years in Vancouver, at L’Hermitage, Le Crocodile and Le Garoche during the 1980s. In 1991, he moved to Oak Harbor on Whidbey Island, WA, where he was the chef and co-owner of Kasteel
Fransson for 13 years until he set plans in motion for his own restaurant, Frasers Gourmet Hideaway. His restaurant has been labeled a “gourmet hideaway” for a reason; once you find it, you too will know it is a rare culinary jewel. Fifteen years ago, Scott volunteered to help an Oak Harbor High School teacher, Louise Reuble, who wanted to upgrade her Culinary Arts program by competing with other schools on a statewide level in Pro Start, a competition sponsored by Boyd’s Coffee. Teamwork and Scott’s culinary guidance put together several very successful competitions. Future master chefs and entrepreneurs went head-to-head in the kitchen and the boardroom at the 2017 Washington ProStart Invitational on Feb. 18. The team from Oak Harbor High was victorious, meaning the kids would hop a plane and compete for
scholarships at the National ProStart Invitational, April 28-30 in Charleston, South Carolina. (Unfortunately, this issue of HARBORS was printed before the competition, but Oak Harbor High School had been hailed as the “team to beat.”) Some students will then return to Frasers as sous chefs. Scott also hires culinary students during the summer months, which provides them with meaningful work experience and provides Frasers with a well-trained staff, which in turn provides patrons with a quality dining experience. Scott has dedicated his life to culinary creations, teaching and mentoring young people to learn the skill of cooking and build their own futures in the culinary arts. The recipe that follows is the starter course for the 2017 state and national competitions.
STEAKS • SEAFOOD • COCKTAILS
Cauliflower 1 Cauliflower, cut in florets, core removed ½ c Wood chips for smoking 1. Place cauliflower florets into insert pan to be used as smoker. 2. Place wood chips into the bottom of a deep pan. Place insert on top. 3. Cover with foil, leaving one corner uncovered. Place on high heat. 4. When smoke rises from uncovered corner, cover fully and remove from heat. 5. After 4 minutes, uncover smoker and place cauliflower in food processor. 6. Pulse food processor until cauliflower resembles the consistency of couscous. 7. Place in nonstick pan and season with salt; set aside. 8. Pan-roast over medium-high heat, tossing or stirring regularly until cooked through and browned. Curry Sauce 1 tsp Curry powder 1 Tbsp Canola oil 1 tsp Fresh ginger, peeled and grated 1 Tbsp Shallots, minced Heavy cream 8 oz 1 tsp Salt 1. Saute shallots and ginger in nonstick pan with canola oil. 2. Add cream, curry, and salt. Reduce. 3. Strain. Tamarind Caramel Sauce 2 oz Sugar 6 Tbsp Tamarind concentrate 1. Melt sugar on high heat. 2. When melted, remove from heat and stir in tamarind concentrate. 3. Cool and funnel into squeeze bottle.
Basil Aioli 1 ea Egg yolk 4 oz Basil oil Salt, as needed
WH I
EW EY N S GR DB
THE
P OU
Pan-Seared Scallops with Smoked Cauliflower, Tamarind Caramel and Curry Sauce 6 servings
Whidbey’s Ultimate Dining Experience BEST OF
WHIDBEY READERS CHOICE AWARDS
Dramatic Open Chef’s Kitchen Dinners Tues - Sat 4:30-9:30
1. Crack egg and separate yolk from white. 2. Whisk half yolk and 2 tsp water until pale yellow. 3. Season with salt. 4. Slowly pour basil oil into bowl while whisking continuously until thick and emulsified. 5. Funnel into squeeze bottle. Diver Scallops 12 ea Diver scallops 2 Tbsp Clarified butter 1. Melt butter on high heat in small metal pan. 2. Dry and salt scallops. 3. Place scallops into pan. 4. When bottom is seared to a golden brown, flip scallops in order of which you placed them into the pan. 5. Reduce to low heat, continue cooking. 6. When cooked, remove from heat and transfer scallops to cutting board. Plating 1. Place curry sauce on plates within long rectangle stencil. 2. Top with cauliflower couscous. 3. Slice scallops in half horizontally and place on top of couscous. 4. Garnish with tamarind caramel and basil aioli. 5. Top with microgreens.
Visit our full menu at www.frasersgh.com
360.279.1231 1191 SE Dock Street Oak Harbor
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Connected and Dry on the Water by Tom Tripp
A friend recently decided to “disconnect” from her online life during a recent visit to relatives in a remote location on the coast. She thought it might be a good thing to do occasionally. She still thinks that, but wishes she had brought her smartphone camera and tablet for what turned out to be quite a scenic trip along the ocean. I have a couple of solutions for her and for readers who want to bring their connected devices with them when they travel by boat, kayak, and canoe. These are so-called “dry bags” or cases for smartphones and tablets—and they’re useful in environments that might pose a risk of the occasional splash, a quick dunk or even some actual underwater work. I have two approaches to consider, and the first is from DryCASE, a brand developed from the waterproofing technology that parent company Dry Corp uses in the medical field to protect such things as bandages, surgical sites, casts and prosthetics. The story goes that when one of the company’s founders ruined his iPhone in the rain, he realized he could adapt their medical technology to protect personal electronic devices. DryCASE protection involves clear plastic, thin-film cases that have a special one-way valve that can remove the air from the case, making it easy to use the touchscreen, camera and other controls. Employees test each case for eight hours to ensure 100 percent waterproofing. Some reviewers have noted that if you simply want waterproof flotation for your device, you can leave the bag full of air and you might get enough natural buoyancy—though that is not the design intent of the cases. For your phone, the DryCASE waterproof cell-phone case keeps your device protected whether you are surfing, paddle boarding or canoeing. The DryCASE uses its vacuum-seal technology to ensure a watertight seal. Best of all, you’ll still be able to use your touchscreen to text 70
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or make calls, and the company says the crystal-clear covering makes taking pictures a cinch. The DryCASE comes with a small hand pump, neoprene armband and a lanyard, and costs just under $40. The DryCASE Tablet Case will provide the same level of protection and utility for your tablet. The approach for tablets is the same as for smartphones: a threeway, waterproof headphone jack lets you use both stereo headphones and a microphone to listen to music or watch a movie. Simply slip your tablet or e-reader inside the DryCASE and lock the clasps. Position it how you’d like to use it in the case, then use the vacuum hand-pump (included) to remove the desired amount of air. Removing all the air so that the case is flush against your device screen allows touchscreen access. The Tablet Case also comes with the armband and lanyard, and costs just under $60. Both cases are waterproof-rated to 100 feet of depth for an hour. If you don’t have much need to use your devices underwater, but still need to protect them—and you want to do so with style and elegance—an unlikely source yields a lovely solution. Mantus Anchors, an innovative, relative The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine
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Connected and Dry on the Water (continued) newcomer in the anchor market, offers an attractive waterproof purse that will let you take your sunglasses, wallet and cell phone to shore and back, even if it might be a wet ride. The bag is circular, extremely lightweight and rated to the IP7 waterproof standard: 3 feet underwater for 30 minutes. It also has an outside, zippered pocket that is
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splash-proof and comes in two-tone blue that I’m going to claim is both sky-blue and ocean-blue, with a dark shoulder strap. I will also claim that the playful marine animal depicted on the side is an orca. And for $43, with a twoyear warranty, it’s a stylish, waterproof steal.
www.drycase.com www.mantusanchors.com
PUZZLE SOLUTION (complete puzzle on page 82)
HAR B OR S
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Destinations
Seaplane & Boating
Iron Springs Resort, Copalis Beach, WA
For beach lovers, the Washington coast is bipolar. The southern coast is flat and featureless, with hard-packed sand you can drive on. The northern coast is rugged and windswept, with waves crashing against rock stacks. The dividing line is near Copalis Rocks—the remains of a stack just off Boone Creek. After an economic slide caused by the decline of the timber industry, the area is showing signs of revival. Three miles north is the beach community of Seabrook, where homes can sell for more than $1 million. Another sign of rebirth is Iron Springs Resort, once a logging camp until its conversion into a resort in 1947. But over 60-plus years, the resort was pretty run down. According to caretaker Jerry Lacey, “This place was in total disarray” when Doug and Janet True of Seattle 74
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purchased the property, seeing an opportunity to create a resort guests would return to regularly. The Trues launched a year-long remodel that transformed the look and feel of the 25 ocean-facing cabins, built above the beach in a grove of Pacific spruce trees. Nowhere is the transformation more apparent than in Cabin 2, on a bank where the creek meets the ocean. A photo on the wall depicts a structure that looks more like a shack than a dwelling; it was originally a loggingcamp bunkhouse. Today, with windows spanning nearly 180-degrees and a wrap-around deck, it’s a perfect place to watch sunsets. When my wife and I want to get away for a weekend, we look for comfort, relaxation and outdoor activity. Iron Springs Resort meets all of our
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by Sean Griffin
requirements. Apparently we’re not the only ones who think so. Yelp and TripAdvisor reviewers scored it just below a perfect 5-star rating. And it won two of KING-TV’s annual “Best of Washington” awards: Best Cabins and Best Dog-Friendly Destination. (Each cabin has a pair of dog dishes for feeding, and special towels for drying Fido.) We stayed in Cabin 24, which featured a spacious living/dining room, two bedrooms, a kitchenette, fireplace, private deck and a good book selection. While a drenching spring rain fell on our first day, we didn’t mind. The cabin, with its warm fire, easy-chairs and view, was perfect for a rainy day. The rain subsided the next day, giving us time to sit on the deck, walk to a panoramic overlook, hike a trail through the woods, and take the private trail to the
beach. We regretted leaving our clam gun at home, because the resort’s beach is prime razor-clam habitat. If you’re not a reader, the office has a good selection of DVDs to watch, and some wonderful things to buy, since it doubles as general store. Do not—I repeat, do not—fail to buy some of their famous cinnamon rolls to heat in your cabin’s oven. There are restaurants at Seabrook, and at the popular resort of Ocean Shores. We took our chances on a funky local hangout—the kind with pool tables, shuffleboard, pull-tab machines and a long bar—the Green Lantern Tavern. We didn’t expect much, but were pleasantly surprised. The night’s special was a big sirloin steak grilled perfectly, with baked potato and vegetables, for $12.99. Service was friendly. Rates vary depending on cabin location and season. Our cabin was one of the most affordable, with a low-season rate of $179 per night. Cabin 14, the most expensive, varies between $319 and $369. There are seasonal discounts; check the website before you book. There are a pair of minor mysteries about Iron Springs. One is its name. There are no springs anywhere in the locality, much less the region, with that name. There is speculation that the name relates to mattress springs back in its logging camp days. The other mystery is the inverted lifeboat mounted on the two posts that welcome you to the resort. Jerry Lacey says it’s believed to have floated away from the wreck of a Japanese ship back in the 1930s.
Iron Springs Resort 3707 Highway 109 Copalis Beach, WA 98535 360.276.4230 1.800.380.7950 ironspringsresort.com The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine
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The Inn at Port Gardner, Everett, WA
From the moment you enter the Inn at Port Gardner you get the feeling you are somewhere special. The welcoming lobby with its beautiful floor-to ceiling-fireplace, and the free coffee and tea bar with fresh cookies, along with the friendly staff, make you feel at home. A wall of windows floods the lobby with natural light and a door leads to a relaxing courtyard, with fireplace, overlooking the Port of Everett Marina. This boutique-style inn is Everett’s only waterfront hotel. It is positioned overlooking the marina, set against the backdrop of glistening Port Susan with emerald-green views of Whidbey, Camano and Hat Islands. 76
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Many rooms offer a beautiful view of the Olympic Mountains. With only 27 rooms and six guest suites, the inn unites past and present, inspired by the area’s maritime and logging history, to create a comfortable and functional home for both overnight visitors and extended-stay business travelers. There are two conference rooms available for conducting business or special events. Plaza View rooms face the Everett Naval Station to the south and Whidbey Island to the west, with some offering additional balcony seating. Each Marina View room has large open-out windows with views of the marina, from which to watch boat
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by Deane Hislop
traffic or the sun setting over Whidbey Island. First-floor rooms have a sliding glass door leading to a small patio area with table and chairs. We found our fireplace suite spacious and well appointed. It featured a living area that can be either intimate or family oriented, with a gas fireplace for those cozy nights in, and a queensize sofa for when you want to share the experience. The living area was also furnished with a flat-screen TV, desk, dining area, refrigerator, microwave, toaster, coffeemaker, a balcony with table and two chairs, and a view of the marina. As an avid boater, standing on our balcony, I was dazzled by the sun as
it reflected off the water and the boats moving about the marina below. Our bedroom was equally well appointed, with a comfortable bed and fresh, fluffy white linens. The sleeping area included a king-size bed, its own flat-screen TV, and was separated from the living area by French doors. The bathroom had a soaking tub in a separate bath area. A fabulous touch was the order card for having our breakfast basket delivered to our door, ready to eat or packed to go. (Best of all, it was included in the room charge.) It’s small unique amenities like this and personal attention where a small independently owned hotel can really shine. For boaters who wish to spend a night or two on terra firma, the Port of Everett Marina offers more than 5,000 feet of conveniently located guest moorage. While the Inn does not have its own restaurant, it is easy walking distance from several great places to grab lunch or dinner, including Moontree Asian Tapas, Anthony’s Homeport Restaurant and Anthony’s Woodfire Grill, and the Scuttlebutt Brewing Company. Lombardi’s is located next door and provides room service if you would rather dine in. Check with the front desk for restaurant coupons. There is plenty to keep you occupied during you stay. Popular attractions such as the Everett Farmers Market, Jetty Island Park, Legion Memorial golf course, Comcast Arena and Event Center, the Boeing Tour Center, the Tulalip Casino, and Marysville outlet malls are all within an easy drive.
Inn at Port Gardner 1700 W Marine View Drive Everett, WA 98201 425.252.6779 innatportgardner.com The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine
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Thornewood Castle,
Lakewood, Washington is a city of contrasts. It has some of the state’s nicest neighborhoods in the state and some of its most neglected. And for more than a century, Lakewood has been home to a 16th century English castle that now serves as a world-class bed-and-breakfast, and as a stunning venue for weddings and other events. So what’s a 500-year-old castle doing 4,700 miles from England? That question was on our minds as the heavy oaken door swung open and Events Manager Stephanie Ferris welcomed us into the Great Hall, where a cozy hearth fire added to the warmth. She led us up a magnificent staircase to the Presidential Suite, where we would be spending the night. “Presidents Taft and Roosevelt stayed here,” Stephanie said, referring to the portly William Howard Taft and rough-riding Theodore Roosevelt. The room was stunning. A fourposter bed, a window seat beside 78
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Lakewood, WA
leaded-crystal windows letting in soft, northern light and centuriesold stained glass illuminating a small circular dining table; definitely president-worthy. As luck would have it, we were the only guests that night, and had free roam of the entire castle. We explored 22 rooms, each with its own theme; 11 serve as sleeping quarters. Rates range from $300 to $550 a night. There is an ample library, a game room—where my wife demonstrated my inadequacies as a pool player—a hall of mirrors and an entertainment room. The movie offerings always include “Rose Red:” a Steven King TV series, filmed on site, about a haunted castle. (If there are spirits in the building, they kept to themselves.) The walls are saturated with artwork; in the Great Hall there is an exquisite 19th century marble Florentine statue by Raffello Romanelli. Breakfast is served in the dining hall or
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by Sean Griffin
your room. We elected the latter, and it was a respite from the diets we’d been on for months. It included an egg soufflé, bacon, fresh fruit, scones, toast, blackberry yogurt, orange juice and coffee. Stephanie said the castle’s original American owners were Chester Thorne, and his wife Anna. In 1907, he purchased an Elizabethan manor castle as a gift for Anna, then dismantled it. The pieces were loaded onto three ships for a two-month, 16,175mile pre-Panama Canal voyage around Cape Horn to Seattle. The pieces were used to recreate a traditional English Tudor Gothic castle along Lakewood’s American Lake. The understructure is concrete and steel, finished with the brick, oak paneling, and staircase from the original castle. The stained glass, furnishings and artwork are from across Europe. Construction of the 27,000 squarefoot building began in 1908. The Olmstead Brothers, landscape designers
of New York’s Central Park and the White House grounds, designed the grounds, including a sunken garden that in 1930 was named the nation’s most beautiful garden by the Garden Club of America. In 1911, when work was complete, the couple and their daughter moved into the 22-room, 22-bath manor, attended by 40 servants. Anna lived there until her death in 1954. On a rainy day in early spring, Stephanie led me to the garden platform where couples exchange vows and asked me to imagine the grandeur of a wedding in such a setting when the wisteria and hydrangeas are in bloom (and the rain clouds in abeyance). Given the setting, it was not hard to imagine. Stephanie’s booking calendar indicates indoor and outdoor weddings year round, with almost every day booked in the peak summer months. The castle is also sought as a venue for corporate events, elegant parties and other special occasions. I’ve been lucky enough to travel widely over many years, both for business and pleasure. Until our visit to Thornewood Castle, nothing came close to matching my favorite accomodations in the world: Paris’ Hotel Vernet, a restored 19th century hotel, on a quiet street near the Arc d’Triomphe. Thornewood Castle definitely gives the Hotel Vernet a run for the money; it’s the most extraordinary place I’ve ever stayed, and it is worth every penny for the opportunity. If there’s one reason why the Hotel Vernet remains my favorite, it’s simply this: Lakewood is not Paris.
Thornewood Castle Bed and Breakfast 8601 N Thorne Lane SW Lakewood, WA 98498 thornewoodcastle.com 253.584.4393 The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine
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In Memoriam
FR ED O L D F IEL D 1918 – 2017
In 2008 I met a man named Fred Oldfield. I was told I should write an article on him, because he was one of the greatest western artists of all time. Having spent many an evening watching old western movies with my dad, I thought I better check out this ol’ cowboy. So I called his daughter and asked if I could interview her father. She said “Ok, but as soon as you do, you will fall in love with him.” And she was right! The moment I saw him something special happened. I felt as if we were old friends and kindred spirits, although we had just met. From that day forward Fred became one of my dearest friends. I would visit him as often as possible at his home in Tacoma, WA. Many times, I would crash on his couch and watch Mariners baseball or just talk about fishing. I always felt like we could talk about anything. We shared our deepest thoughts on just about every subject. I never felt an age difference except when he told me stories of his childhood growing up in the old west. Sometimes, after watching him paint, we would get in his Caddy and he would take me to the Lobster Shop for happy hour! Every time we went somewhere together, people would ask “Hey Fred, how ya’ doin?” and he would reply, “How the hell do ya’ think I’m doing? I’m with a beautiful woman!” We had many a breakfast at Johnny’s in Fife, WA, which was Fred’s favorite watering hole. You could find him eating his breakfast there nearly every day. I don’t think I ever heard him complain, except perhaps when he had to do something when he really wanted to go fishing. Every time I saw Fred he wanted to know how I was doing, he would always ask about HARBORS and my dad. He would sometimes tell people that I was his girlfriend, but I didn’t mind. If I were a little older and shorter I would have snatched him up a long time ago. Everyone knew Fred as a painter and a cowboy character, but I knew him as a kind person and a true friend. He passed on February 24th, just a few weeks before his 99th birthday. I miss him very much and I always will. If you’d like to learn about Fred’s famous western artwork, go to www.fredoldfieldcenter.org. —Kat McKelvey, Publisher, HARBORS Magazine
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