HARBORS Nov/Dec 2016 Issue

Connecting People, Places, Adventure and Lifestyle

HARBORS The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine

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PUBLISHER / EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Katherine S. McKelvey BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT George V. Bivoino EDITOR Russ Young editor@harborsmagazine.com ART DIRECTOR Anika Colvin COPY EDITING Biff Burns ADVERTISING SALES Mark McLean, Senior Account Executive mark@harborsmagazine.com

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CONTRIBUTORS Pat Awmack Gordon Baron George Bivoino Deane Hislop

Cindy Phillips Marianne Scott Tom Tripp Russ Young

PHOTO CREDITS Russell Campbell*, pgs. 14-15 Tiffany Gatesman*, pg. 18 (center) Kat McKelvey, pgs. 16-19, 22-27 Baron/Phillips, pgs.28-33 Patrick Barta pgs. 40-46 Victoria Distillers, pgs. 50-5

Sunshine Coast Air, pgs. 56-60 Hobie, pgs. 68-69 Deane Hislop, pgs. 74-75 Alyeska Resort, pgs. 76-77 Secret Cove Treehouses, pgs. 78-79

* Winners of the 2016 Homer Chamber Visitor’s Guide photo contest.

HARBORS Magazine is a proud sponsor of: Pacific Salmon Foundation of Canada Long Live the Kings of Washington State HARBORS Magazine is a proud member of: British Columbia Floatplane Association Northwest Marine Trade Association Northwest Yacht Brokers Association Washington State Seaplane Pilots Association PUBLISHED BY

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All rights reserved. Partial or whole reproduction is prohibited. The publisher will not be held responsible for errors in advertising beyond the cost of the space of the ad. No changes may be made or cancellation accepted after the publication deadline date. Opinions expressed in signed articles are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect the views of this magazine.

HAR B O R S

Welcome to HARBORS The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine

A Note from the Publisher

Harbor Lights Greetings, Autumn has arrived, but what a great summer season we had here in the Pacific Northwest! Among many adventures, our HARBORS team was fortunate to spend a week on Alaska’s Kenai Peninsula in the city of Homer. Our trip was so amazing we decided to tell you about it in two parts: Part One is in this issue and you can look for Part Two in our Jan/Feb edition. (In fact, we had so many amazing experiences you will be reading about some of them throughout 2017 ... so stay “tuned” for more about Homer.)

It was a whirlwind trip of glacier-viewing by helicopter, bearviewing by seaplane, eating some amazing food, staying in some awesome accommodations—and meeting friendly people everywhere we went. We had a memorable fishing adventure and came home with our limits of halibut. In our opinion, if you are headed to Alaska, the city of Homer is a definite must-visit.

Now is the time to start working on our boats and making plans for the next season of boating and seaplane activities. Start booking now for next season because many lodges, resorts and marinas fill up fast—especially if they have a short season.

This is our ‘Holiday Issue” and we encourage you to explore some of your local destinations during the holidays. Many times your experience can be better during the off-season; less crowded, and more intimate. There’s nothing like sitting in front of the fireplace at a cozy B&B, or soaking a hot tub under a misty rain at a beautiful resort. Great destinations can be found everywhere, and during the holidays the decorations and lights make any destination especially worthy of a visit. Check out our holiday gift guide on page 72; there are great gift ideas for family and friends.

We here at HARBORS wish everyone a safe and joyful holiday season! We’re looking forward to sharing stories with you in 2017.

Cheers!

Scan to Subscribe Katherine S. McKelvey Publisher

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2016 November/December

Features

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Homer, Alaska

22

Hakai Lodge

28

Good Hope Cannery

34

Travel Maps

40

On the Waterfront

Our Odyssey to a Very Friendly Place Revisiting a True Fishing Adventure A Tribute to BC’s Fishing Heritage Pacific Northwest Coastal Waterways East Wenatchee, WA

50

Victoria Distillers

A Spirited Stop at Sidney’s Seaport Place

(photo by AJ Hunt)

56

Sunshine Coast Air

Cover Photo: Roche Harbor on San Juan Island at sunset.

62

HARBORS Happenings

68 74

Staying Small and Local

Port Townsend Wooden Boat Festival

Gear Guide

To Paddle or to Pedal?

Seaplane & Boating Destinations

La Conner, WA • Girdwood, AK • Half Moon Bay, BC

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Get your financial plan in shape this summer

Just as you’d prep your boat for the season, it’s smart to assess your financial situation well before tax time.

With longer days and lighter workloads, summer is ideal for reviewing the state of your finances. April 15th is in the rearview mirror—and now is a great time to see what you can do to make an impact on next year’s burden.

When you’re ready to revisit your financial plan, we can help. For 50 years, our mission has been to put clients first, tailoring our services to what works best for each individual, family or institutional client.

Read about fresh topics in financial planning and wealth management on our blog.

badgley.com/blog

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Homer, Alaska Our Odyssey to a Very Friendly Place

by Russ Young

Editor’s Note: We were so enchanted by our August visit to Homer, Alaska in that we’ve decided to give you a two-part roundup of the adventure, AND we will have a number of follow-up stories throughout 2017. See the Publisher’s Letter on page 9 for more.

I

n August 2015 the readers of Conde Nast Traveler named Charleston, South Carolina as the “The Friendliest City in the World.” Having spent a significant amount of time in that southern city, I find it hard to disagree.

However, after recently spending a week in a place on Alaska’s Kenai Peninsula, I’m here to tell you about a small city that can give Charleston a run for its money: Homer.

Despite the rugged reputation of America’s 49th state, the residents of Homer greet you warmly, say goodbye with a friendly wave or a hug, and spend most, if not all, of the time in between the two with smiles on their faces.

Fittingly, it begins as soon as you walk in the door of Homer’s Visitor Information Center and meet Manager Jan Knutson and her staff.

Like many of the local residents, Jan and her husband Ed Hutchinson—a renowned painter of Arctic wildlife— are transplants from the Lower 48 who fell in love in Homer and now call it home. If you’re not already happy about arriving in town, you will be once Jan and her team have shared with you their wealth of knowledge about local accommodations, dining options, art, entertainment and attractions.

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Ask them about where to eat, and for starters they may send you right across the Center’s parking lot to Fat Olives. It’s a former garage building, but as soon as you step inside you’ll catch a casual-cool vibe, as well as be given some difficult choices: steak, or seafood? (If you’ve never tasted a Kachemak Bay oyster, here’s your chance. You’ll thank me.) Pasta or pizza? (You can’t go wrong with either, but make sure you watch the pizza cooks hand-tossing dough for the signature 28-inch pies before they slide them into the wood-fired oven. Please take note that the big pizzas are only available for takeout; that’s because they take up too much space on Fat Olives’ tables.)

Owners Lisa and Steve “Tiny” Nolan have built a reputation by establishing some of the best places to eat in Homer—of which there are many—including the Homestead, Cafe Cups and the Fritz Creek General Store, of which all were sold to the Nolan’s employees. Lisa will still recommend all three with a smile, which is the same way she’ll suggest a bottle of wine from the Schooler Nolan Winery in Richland, Washington. (Yup—the Nolans own a winery, too.)

Fortified with lunch, we decided to get ready for the next day’s activity: fishing. Homer bills itself as “The Halibut Fishing Capital of the World,” and there are no shortage of charter operators, guides and boats to choose from. Thanks to a recommendation from Jan, we were sent to Inlet Charters, who hooked us up (pun intended) with Captain Phil Warren and the 30-foot Sea Wolf. (Her recommendation was based on experience; he helped Jan land a 300-pound halibut a few years ago.)

The next day, we were in good hands with Phil and his deckhand Travis—part comedian, part philosopher. A couple of us on board hadn’t fished in decades, but they were friendly, knowledgeable and forgiving 16

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of first-time mistakes. We spent our morning trolling for silver salmon, and although we hooked a few, we did not manage to land a single fish. So Phil was doubly determined to make our halibut experience memorable.

And it was; he and Travis were soon working furiously as six anglers were pulling in halibut at a frenetic pace.

Phil, who was busy driving the boat while we were out for silvers, had dropped anchor and became coach, cheerleader, part-time deckhand and gracious host. Although there were no 300-pounders on the Sea Wolf that day, we all caught our limit, taking home pounds of halibut fillets— thank you, Coal Point Fish Packing— and tons of good memories.

Although the residents generally live on the surrounding hills, Homer’s most distinguishing physical feature is the Homer Spit: it’s a 4.5-mile long, narrow, low finger of land that protrudes into Kachemak Bay. It’s also a beehive of activity, as it is the location of the harbor/marina, the charteroperators’ storefronts, shops, restaurants and the iconic Salty Dawg Saloon. And it’s also home to the suitably named Land’s End Resort, which, not surprisingly, you’ll find at the tip of the spit.

Some advice: as soon as you arrive at Land’s End, find a place where you can take in the view of the Kenai Mountains and glaciers across the water. (Hint: there are many such places, although the outside deck at the Chart Room restaurant is a solid choice.) Once you’ve consumed your fill of the view, you can take in breakfast, lunch and dinner, or just retreat to one of the hotel rooms or lodges.

There accommodations for parties as large as six; some of the rooms have fold-down Murphy beds that kids are bound to love.

Unlike most of the businesses along the spit, Land’s End is open yearround.

Up the Spit, if you’re looking for a place to eat, you might not be blamed The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine

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if you were to nearly overlook la baleine cafe. From the outside, it looks as if it might be a nice coffee shop.

(And the coffee is very good!) You’ll find bacon and eggs on the breakfast menu, but you may want to zero in on choices like the breakfast skillet (with home-corned brisket), baked beans and greens (including house-baked pinto beans) and the house-roasted granola.

And then there’s the lunch menu: turkey on a roll with fromage blanc, Havarti and rhubarb chutney, or white-bean spread, coleslaw, avocado, cucumber (and more) on rye? Salmon bowl, or a salmon BLT? A houseground beef burger or a veggie-grain alternative?

By now you should suspect that la baleine is no coffee shop. The mother-and-daughter team of Kirsten and Mandy Dixon are both culinaryschool graduates (mom in France; her daughter at the Cordon Bleu and Culinary Institute of America). They’ve cooked crab fritters for 1,000+ spectators at the 2015 World’s Fair in Milan, and the U.S. State Department took them to Morocco in September to cook as part of a cultural exchange.

They’ve co-authored two cookbooks.

They’re trained in fine dining, but at la baleine they aim for a casual environment in which to serve great food, primarily to local residents.

There are more Dixons, and more family businesses: Kirsten’s husband Carl, their daughter Carley and sonin-law Ty make up the rest of the team that run two Alaskan lodges: Tutka Bay Lodge and Winterlake Lodge.

The former is home to a cooking school; the latter is a year-round operation that hosts heli-skiers—30 feet of snow is not uncommon—and is a checkpoint for the Iditarod sled-dog race.

The Dixons do own a coffee shop, serving espresso on the Homer Spit, as well as Rustic Wild (“Gifts Off the Grid”), which Kirsten describes as a “store for objects that we love.” And, 18

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Jan Knutson Homer Chamber of Commerce and Visitor Center Manager

believe it or not, they’ve bought another cafe along the spit, although she says with a grin, “we’re not sure why.”

Asked what the concept will be, Mandy admits they haven’t decided yet, but they may serve dinner. They haven’t decided on a name yet—”Spit Sisters” may paint the wrong picture in diners’ minds—but she says “Curious” might work, since their regulars are wondering what the restaurant will be.

And being a good Homer resident, she says all of this with a big smile.

Like I said, it’s a friendly place.

(In our Jan-Feb 2017 issue, we’ll tell you more about the friendly people, amazing food and memorable adventures that you can experience in a trip to Homer.)

Jan Knutson has been the manager of the Homer Chamber of Commerce Visitor Center since May, 2015. She is passionate about Homer and showcasing the majestic beauty of Kachemak Bay, the Kenai Mountains and the five major glaciers that are laced between the mountain peaks.

Jan’s role at the Visitor Center is to recruit, train and manage 20 volunteer hosts, who provide information and personal referrals for those who come into the Visitor Center.

Jan’s love of Homer comes from her Norwegian heritage. Her father’s family is from a small island south of Bergen and were boat builders and fishing people; her mother’s family is from a farming community 60 miles north of Trondheim, and were artists and jewelers. Jan’s passion for her city is reflected in her own love of fishing—she caught a 300-pound halibut on one of the local charters 12 years ago. At that point, she and her husband Ed Hutchinson were “lured” to move to Alaska.

Jan is passionate about the arts—both visual and culinary. Homer is known as one of the top 100 communities for the arts and as a “foodie” community with outstanding bakeries, cafés and restaurants with internationally and nationally recognized chefs. Jan delights in recommending the galleries, museums and eating places in and around Homer, on the Spit and across Kachemak Bay. She is a photographer; Ed is an oil painter and they have their own Whetstone Gallery & Studio in Homer.

Jan’s pre-Homer career spanned 35-plus years with United Way of Seattle/ King County and as a consultant through United Way International. She is a world traveler and enjoys talking with international visitors who come to the Chamber, many of whom are from countries where she has traveled or consulted.

She is a sociology graduate of the University of Washington in Seattle, which explains her love of working with people of all income levels, ethnicities and cultures to find matching interests for them when they visit Homer. When you get to Homer stop by the Visitor Center and say hello to Jan; her enthusiasm for the beauty and culture of the area is contagious.

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Open Letter To Anyone Who Cares About Wild Sustainable Salmon “There used to be millions of wild salmon in the waters of the Pacific Northwest. Now, there’s only a fraction of that. Where have all the salmon gone? That’s the question I, Duke Moscrip, owner of Duke’s Chowder House have been asking lately, and we want to know the answer. That’s why we at Duke’s support the non-profit organization, Long Live the Kings, who are committed to answering that question. Their mission is to restore wild salmon and steelhead. Think about this: one of our most important food sources is endangered and is threatened with extinction. And, without salmon, there will be no Orca Whales. Now is the time to support the efforts of Long Live the Kings. I urge you to give now to support the restoration and preservation of our wild salmon.

If we don’t do it, who will? Let’s not take the risk that our salmon disappear forever. Help me by helping Long Live the Kings. Together we can move mountains and restore our wild salmon back to our waters.” Visit http://lltk.org/support-us to donate today and support our salmon!”

Searching For The World’s Finest Seafood Is Duke’s Passion.

“Sustainability is personal to me. I will do everything I can to make sure that we have Wild Seafood for our grandchildren and our grandchildren’s grandchildren forevermore. I know you are hungry for better seafood. That’s why I go to Alaska and fish with the fishermen and women in order to bring you the best seafood on the planet. I want you to personally experience the taste of the best and invite you to visit any of our six locations where I guarantee sustainable seafood with exceptional flavor.”

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Hakai Lodge Revisiting a True Fishing Adventure

by George Bivoino

A

couple of years ago I wrote a HARBORS article about Hakai Lodge following my first visit there. It was my first fishinglodge experience and I have since been fortunate enough to return to Hakai the past two years. It’s a destination for both serious fishing fanatics as well as novice anglers looking to have an incredible outdoor experience.

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This summer we returned to Hakai by seaplane (a de Havilland Beaver) with pilot Jimmy Howard of Northwest Seaplanes. The flight from Renton, Washington (just south of Seattle) is an exciting part of the trip, as Jimmy is an expert on the islands of the Salish Sea and a great guide for pointing out sights along the way. Our trip this year was five days and four nights.

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The timing is suited to getting in the maximum fishing time, because they fly you in the first day early enough to have a hearty lunch and then get a good four hours of fishing in before your first night’s dinner.

First-timers will experience a warm, enthusiastic greeting by manager Holli Smith and her team, as well as owner/ operator, Clyde Carlson, when he is

on site. They’re on the dock as you step off the plane. Return visitors can expect a big hug from Holli; she will remember your name and get you set up for your fishing adventure. From fishing tips by local guides to great meals from the kitchen, Holli along with her crew will have your back for the rest of your stay.

Hakai is a floating fishing lodge located in the abundant, fish-filled waters of Hakai Passage in British Columbia. These fishing areas are protected from commercial fishing, providing the best salmon and halibut runs around. The lodge is surrounded by the pristine, natural beauty of sparkling waters, rocky cliffs, lush forest, and hundreds of uninhabited, unexplored islands and inlets.

Each year after the fishing season is

over, Clyde and his crew dis-assemble the lodge and tow it to a secluded inland inlet to store for the winter. This is where the work begins to keep the lodge in ship-shape for the following season.

Since our first visit in 2014, there have been significant changes at the lodge. Clyde and his wife Priscilla have made several major improvements.

Last winter was spent upgrading guestrooms and adding a new entrance giving the lodge a classy, rustic ambiance.

They also gave the kitchen a facelift and added some fine new artwork in the cabins. And they refurbished the Boston Whaler boats that you can use at your own convenience, well stocked with all your fishing needs, from bait to tackle, and a map of the area.

Once in your boat you are on your

own to explore all fishing areas, with some guidance from the onsite guide on where the fish are biting that day.

You will never leave the lodge hungry unless you want to get on the water super early, as a full breakfast is served each morning. But fear not early birds, as the dining room is stocked with lots of goodies to take with you if you want to get a head start on the day.

You can stay out all day with a freshly prepared box lunch from the kitchen or return mid-day for hot soup and a sandwich before heading out again.

The latter gives you an opportunity to chat with others on where the fish are being caught and who came in with the biggest catch so far.

This year we were fortunate to meet a family that has been fishing Hakai for more than 40 years. Head of the

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family John Excel was at the lodge with his sons, grandsons, and family friends to celebrate his 100th birthday. Many guests at Hakai return year after year because they know they will catch fish and have an experience like no other.

Some other longtime visitors to the lodge are Lou and Barb Bonner, who often bring friends and family. It is a time to unplug and relax, even though the fishing can be quite exciting. BC fisheries are home to wild salmon that give you a run for your money—they like to fight and run—so be prepared for a challenge.

It is an everyday experience to see whales, sea lions, porpoises and eagles wherever you fish. This year there were more whale sightings than in years past. And although we were told that the fishing wasn’t as abundant as in previous years—when they were “jumping in the boats”—we had no problem getting our limits of salmon and black cod.

The dining room seats 30 guests. It has been newly remodeled to add large windows overlooking the water for viewing incoming seaplanes and boats.

It’s not unusual to see several seaplanes on the dock at one time: you might see a Beaver, an Otter and/or a Goose.

Dinner is a highlight of each day; you may dine on salmon, halibut or prawns. Other delights are prime rib with Yorkshire pudding, turkey with cranberry sauce and pumpkin pie, and other delicious beef and poultry options. Wine is also provided with dinner; it’s a great time to visit and learn about the other guests.

Throughout the day, Holli bakes fresh homemade bread, rolls, pastries, pies, cakes and cookies that no one seems able to resist. She says, “people come back just for the baked goods every year.” And it’s true; we saw one angler get off the plane and go straight for the chocolate-chip cookies displayed in the dining room.

After five days of good fishing, good company, hearty meals and relaxing evenings, our flight back was on a 24

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By Seaplane or Boat. . . However you arrived – We’ve already been there.

From Washington to Alaska, Your Source for Marinas, Restaurants, Services, Points of Interest and much more.

To get your copy call

(425) 488-3211 or visit

www.BoatTravel.com

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new addition to Northwest Seaplanes’ fleet: a newly acquired de Havilland Otter. This seaplane is the last one of 466 Otters to come off the assembly line. Northwest Seaplanes makes scheduled flights to Hakai Lodge from south Lake Washington in Renton, WA. Northwest Seaplanes’ owner— and Clyde and Priscilla’s son—Shane Carlson was our pilot. Shane’s excited to have a new plane that seats ten passengers and shaves off a few hours of flying time to and from the lodge.

Hakai Lodge’s emphasis is all about meeting and exceeding the expectations of its customers. Whether it is meticulously readying their boats and gear for the next trip out on the water, providing great advice and guides, preparing and serving delicious meals, or providing cozy cabins, you are meant to be spoiled. The staff and crew are dedicated to making it all happen.

The season fills up fast so if you are thinking about booking a trip in 2017, contact HARBORS Adventures at adventures@harborsmagazine.com.

We will make sure you get the experience you are looking for, and anyone booking a party of five or more will get their trip for free. (See page 80.)

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Holli Smith Hakai Lodge Manager Holli Smith started working at Hakai Lodge in 1986 and has only missed two summers since. It has been a job that she thoroughly enjoys and fits well into her present lifestyle. Holli owns a concession business that operates out of a hockey arena in Alberta, Canada and is only busy from September through March, so she can take the summers off to manage Hakai Lodge.

She is also a school trustee for the Public School Board, Prairie Land Regional Division.

When Holli first started at Hakai it was due to her aunt, who was working there as the baker. The lodge needed two chambermaids, so Holli and her cousin were given the jobs. She has since worked as the assistant cook, baker, waitress and cook before becoming the manager four years ago. She truly enjoys meeting all of the guests and ensuring that they have a memorable experience at the Lodge.

“It’s a great treat to see our regular customers continue to return and it gives us all a chance to catch up on what has been happening in each other’s lives,” said Holli.

Holli’s four children, Louise, 23, Doan, 21, Colten, 17 and Shane, 11, have all worked at the lodge.

Even before they were old enough to work, the Carlsons have always allowed her to bring them along for the summer. Shane has been more of a volunteer, or “work for cookies” kind of employee. “He enjoys the fishing, talking to all of the fishermen and often giving them fishing tips. Last year one of our guests asked him how soon he would be a guide here because he really wanted Shane to show him where and how to fish!

“I believe our customers truly enjoy the family atmosphere they find while they are at Hakai. It helps them to relax and unwind from their often high-paced lives at home,” said Holli.

The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine

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Good Hope Cannery A Tribute to BC’s Fishing Heritage

by Gordon Baron and Cindy Phillips

28

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T

he potential for commercial salmon fishing on British Columbia’s west coast was first discovered in 1778 by British explorer Captain James Cook. Almost a century later, in 1870, the first cannery began processing salmon on the lower Fraser River at Annieville. This was the birth of the commercial fishing revolution, which soon traveled north to Alaska.

Salmon canning started on BC’s mid-coast at the headwaters of Rivers Inlet in 1882. Another sixteen canneries followed. Henry Bell-Irving used capital from British investors to form the Anglo-British Columbia Packing Company and build Good Hope Cannery in 1895. It was the fifth cannery to be built in Rivers Inlet. During its heyday, there were more than 1,000 boats fishing for salmon in the inlet.

In the early years of Good Hope, most of the labor force consisted of native men and women from the villages of Oweekeno, Bella Bella and Vancouver Island. After the completion of the Canadian Pacific Railway in 1885, thousands of Chinese moved to the west coast to work in the salmon canneries. This was the beginning of a unique exchange of nationalities and cultures working together.

The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine

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The canneries employed hundreds of people to make up the huge labor force needed for their operation.

Each cannery was like a small village consisting of many buildings, including separate accommodations for the Chinese, Japanese and First Nations families.

Good Hope is hidden in a small bay, halfway up the 30-mile-long inlet, behind Ida Island. Seeing the cannery for the first time is striking; it is one of only three restored salmon canneries left on BC’s coast. To visit is to travel back in time to the beginning of commercial fishing in British Columbia.

Good Hope Cannery has undergone major restorations and upgrades, keeping the historical value of the buildings.

The West Wing of the cannery has three floors. The main floor’s houses dining rooms; the second floor is a lounge and accommodations for guests. The third floor is for staff accommodations.

In front of the West Wing is a small building called “Gut House.” Completely rebuilt in 2011, it was used to clean fish and is still used by guides for the same purpose.

The building to the right of the West Wing is called “Hilton,” used for accommodations for the fishing guides and the owner’s family. The saying goes, “If the walls could talk, the stories they could tell.” At Good Hope they did just that: in 2006, building contractors found old cannery records and newspapers in the Hilton’s walls.

In early years, everything from sawdust to newspapers was used for insulation.

Uphill is the manager’s house and old cookhouse. The manager’s home has been renovated for the owner in the summer and caretaker in the winter. This building has a great view of what’s happening on the waterfront.

Boilers were an important part of canning. They created steam to cook tins of salmon in big ovens called torts. The nearby Sandell River supplied thousands of gallons of fresh wa30

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ter for the cannery and the employees’ homes.

The cannery’s “North Wing” is a two-story section with a loft on the second floor, used to store fishermen’s nets. The main floor was the cannery’s machine shop, which serviced both the canning equipment and the company’s fishing fleet.

In the early days, canneries’ packer boats towed a string of small row/sailboats called “dories” out to start their five days of fishing. It was a city of lights at night from lanterns reflecting off the water from hundreds of boats.

Sails and oars were replaced with gas engines in the mid-1930s.

As fishing technology changed, canneries in Rivers Inlet began shutting down. The last tins of salmon were canned in 1957. Good Hope stopped canning in 1940, but operated as a fish camp for the company’s employees up until the 1960s.

Anglo-British Columbia Packing Company sold off the last of their as-

sets in the salmon-canning business in 1969, but company President Ian BellIrving held onto Good Hope Cannery.

In the final years of commercial fishing in Rivers Inlet, boats came from as far south as Vancouver and as far north as Prince Rupert. The inlet’s commercial fishery closed in 1996 because of the dropping sockeye stocks and has not re-opened.

People have been coming to Rivers Inlet for decades to fish for “Tyee,” which are Chinook (king) salmon weighing more than 30 pounds. However, there were no fishing lodges in Rivers Inlet, so Ian was asked if he would open the cannery up for guests.

By doing so in 1970, he helped transform the area from being a major producer of canned salmon to a worldclass sports fishing destination.

Good Hope has gone through three phases in its 121 years: from cannery, to boat supply and repair station, to private lodge.

Maintaining a complex of this size is

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a challenge, Good Hope has kept up to these demands. Most old-growth fir timbers used for construction in 1895 are still in place. When reinforcement is needed, a master tradesman pins a new portion of a beam to the old. The talent and precision required is impressive.

Pilings holding buildings above the ocean floor are a different story. They are the weakest link and require frequent, and expensive, replacement.

The old wooden shake roof was replaced with a metal roof, prolonging the building’s life.

Today, little evidence remains of a thriving salmon fishing industry that started 134 years ago. Boilers, metal wheels, motor parts, broken pilings 32

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and bricks show the location of old canneries. Gravestones are reminders of the nationalities that worked together.

Good Hope had more than 200 people living on site during fishing season.

People started and ended their lives at Good Hope, and their spirits live on inside the cannery. Staff members have seen ghosts walking the halls and in the rooms, and guests have asked to be relocated from Room Nine.

During spring, grizzly bears wander down the mountains, searching the rocky shoreline for food, feeding on mussels and kelp at low tide. They stay around until the weather begins to cool in October. We have had a few close encounters with our furry neighbors. It’s like the spirits; you have a feeling that someone is always watching you.

Over two decades, my partner and I had the privilege to live at five salmon canneries. You quickly realize how important is to save these historic buildings. Families come to Good Hope reminiscing of their fathers’ and grandfathers’ stories and about life at the canneries.

Some of the old cotton nets still hang in the net lofts, with the original owners’ name tags. We heard the occasional boater remark, “that’s my greatgrandfather’s net.” They would often leave with tears in their eyes from good memories of past generations.

We met two native women who were born at canneries when their families lived on site. Years later they were working in the net loft, mending nets. Their laughter seemed to echo into the street, attracting crowds of curious people, held captive by recollections of the good old days and stories of those who worked in the canneries.

The Good Hope Cannery is a standing monument of BC’s commercial fishing heritage. It is a tribute to, and a proud reminder of, the generations of men and women who built the fishing industry. www.goodhopecannery.com The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine

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Skagway to Ketchikan

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On the Waterfront Waterfront Living in the Pacific Northwest

Desert in Front,

River in Back East Wenatchee, WA

by Russ Young

When you think about locations for luxurious waterfront living in the Pacific Northwest, Washington’s Columbia River probably doesn’t jump to the top of your mind.

Even if it does, the arid hills of East Wenatchee are even less likely to enter into the discussion.

Software executive John Albert wasn’t even thinking that way 26 years ago when he purchased a riverside apricot orchard that had a small, very modest cabin on it.

Nor did his wife, Christina Cuevas Albert, envision a dream home on the site when John first introduced her the land.

But today, thanks to their vision, their willingness to take some chances and to make some lifestyle changes, the Alberts and their three teenage children live an enviable existence at the edge of the Pacific Northwest’s largest river.

Homeowners John and Christina Albert

The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine

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Their house is a study in contrasts.

Inside, it is casually elegant, as well as warm and filled with light. There are comfortable spaces for curling up with a book, or watching a movie or sports on TV. Outside, it is geared toward enjoying the warmth of an Eastern Washington summer; shady spaces for entertaining or relaxing, as well as a swimming pool and decks for soaking up the ample sunshine.

It’s a family-friendly home, too— the kind of place where the kids’ friends like to congregate, where there is a handy mud room for duffle bags, sports equipment and soccer cleats, and where all five of the Alberts can gather around the generously sized island in the kitchen, whether it be for a snack or just conversation. There’s a substantial walnut dining table with steel legs, built by local craftsmen, which is the venue for family dinners as well as after-school homework.

It’s in part the result of a strong 42

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connection between the Alberts and Seattle architect Regan McClellan (see sidebar). When John and Christina decided in 2005 to build a vacation home at the orchard site, they initially engaged another architect.

But as is sometimes the case, the relationship did not work out, so the Alberts engaged Regan, who they describe as a “great listener.”

Because of the false start with the initial architect, the design schedule was compressed to only six months, but after only one design discussion, Regan presented his clients with a design that they responded very favorably to. “John was somewhat concerned about a house that would ‘stick out’ among the surrounding homes. I assured him that they would have the ‘only house that belongs there,’” the architect said.

Such judgments are completely subjective, but the collaboration between Christina, John and Regan has The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine

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resulted in a home that beautifully complements its setting. The shape, materials and landscaping at the front of the house are all in step with the high-desert topography that faces the house; there’s a 1,200 foot high golden-brown hill that rises almost immediately from the adjacent highway.

Behind the house, a large lawn, sumac, pines and willows frame a riverscape, and lead to the water.

East Wenatchee is about 150 miles from Puget Sound, but that doesn’t hamper the Alberts’ ability to enjoy a Northwestern waterfront lifestyle.

There’s 125 feet of shoreline, a dock with a Centurion ski boat in a lift, a Yamaha Waverunner tied to a buoy, a fantastic view of an island known as Turtle Rock—home to coyotes and deer, but not turtles—and 70-degree water during the summer. One of the Albert boys caught a 26-pound Chinook salmon just up the river from The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine

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the house, so you can add “good fishing” to the list of activities.

And there’s what Christina, John and Regan all refer to as the “outdoor room.” It’s a big covered patio with a built-in gas grill, sink, wine refrigerator, fire pit and a big, big table, where the family and their guests can be found much of their time during the warm months. There is also storage space for aquatic gear and a bathroom/shower behind rolling barnstyle doors.

A few steps away are the in-ground swimming pool and adjacent spa. The pool is designed for “laps, or just relaxing,” said Christina, while her husband pointed out that the charcoalgray finish on its bottom is to “mimic the river.” There is some subtle, but attractive, tile trim around the pool, and it has a unique configuration of steps and benches along its side, rather than the ends or corners.

Above the detached garage is a onebedroom, one-bath apartment with a small kitchen and a huge view of the river that is known as “the bunkhouse.” It often houses out-of-town guests, including those who are traveling to and from nearby Lake Chelan, or just friends who may have been coaxed into staying for an evening barbeque and a bottle of wine.

Although it was originally intended as a vacation home to complement their 1914 Craftsman in the heart of Seattle, in 2008 John and Christina decided to “give it a try” by living in eastern Washington on a full-time basis. Although they were both born and raised in the green, often damp, spaces of western Washington (she’s from Bellingham; he grew up on a farm near Stanwood) the couple and their kids soon realized that they were falling in love with semi-rural living.

The scenery, the sunshine—including the bright days following winter snowstorms—and the access to the outdoors proved irresistible. It doesn’t take a visitor much time to see, and agree, how that could happen.

Regan McClellan McClellan Architects, Seattle

Although he was one of seven brothers who grew up in Walla Walla, Washington “building stuff in the backyard,” including a bridge over a creek and various “forts,” it wasn’t until he was 20 years old that Regan McClellan ralized what he wanted to do for a living.

“I decided that I wanted to be an architect ... and that I wanted to have my own firm,” he said. His dream led him to undergraduate studies at the University of Washington, and to pursue a master’s degree at the Harvard Graduate School of Design. After finishing his studies at Harvard, he worked for two years at a Boston firm where Regan discovered another passion. “It kindled my love of landscape architecture,” he said, adding that since then he and his firm have always done that work in addition to building design.

He returned to the Evergreen State in 1997, and after working out of his basement for six months, he opened his own firm. He now works with six other architects and two interior designers, almost exclusively on waterfront homes, but occasionally taking on carefully selected commercial projects: “We’re very picky,” Regan explained. The latest is a recreation center for a non-profit organization in Bellingham, Washington.

Although the bulk of their projects are located between “Portland (Oregon) and Bellingham,” he and his team have designed homes as far away as Hawaii, North Carolina and Nepal.

When he’s not found in his office overlooking Seattle’s Lake Union, he likes travel, ski and row at the nearby Lake Washington Rowing Club. Visitors to the office are likely to notice the two pieces of a wooden oar that is a memento of his intramural rowing at Harvard. “It snapped in half as I was pulling on it, and as the coach was coming over I thought I was in trouble.

But he said, ‘Do you want to keep it?’ and I said, ‘Absolutely!’”

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Victoria Distillers A Spirited Stop at Sidney’s Seaport Place

by Marianne Scott

T

he stylish wood and corrugated-metal building on Seaport Place, between the Port Sidney (BC) Marina and Shaw Ocean Discovery Centre, might be considered a 21st century version of the “gin palaces” so popular in the 1800s.

Except that Victoria Distillers, which opened its 8,500 square-foot cocktail lounge, tasting room and distilling areas to the public in May, does not bear any of the vulgar taints attributed to the baroque bars of the past. About the only aspect in common with these former drinking establishments are the large windows that provide a terrific view of Mount Baker standing proud behind San Juan Island. Instead of mirrors, red

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velour and gilded mouldings, the whole facility has an open-feel with comfortable seating inside and on the patio. It’s a great place to have a martini, either shaken or stirred, as well as a host of other enticing thirst-quenchers. Some small bites are also served, including gin-spiced almonds, a hummus board, meat and cheese board, and chocolate truffles.

This new establishment is a worthy addition to Sidney-by-the Sea’s attractions.

Besides offering cocktails, this is also a manufacturing facility, with two new copper stills on site. The Müller still was fabricated in OberkirchTiergarten, Germany, while the other, even more elaborate distilling

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machine with its spiralling pipes and vats, was built in the Victoria area by Specific Mechanical Systems. To learn how these stills produce the awardwinning Victoria Gin and three other spirits, I took the tour that’s offered between noon and 4:00 p.m. every day (the cost is $7).

Leon Webb, who learned his distilling expertise in his native Scotland, held a cup under the first still’s spout, and invited the other tour members and me to smell it. The clear liquid’s aroma brought me to the edge of a sneezing bout. “It’s the last bit of gin we’ve just distilled,” Leon said in his pleasant brogue. “You see, the distilled product is made-up of heads, hearts and tails. We only use

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the heart, the middle of the distilled liquid. The other parts are not drinkable. But there’s no waste. The heads are recycled as biofuel, the tails are redistilled and form the base for the five bitters we make here. They’re the spice for cocktails.”

He explained that the process begins with pure, corn-based ethanol, of which a bevy of barrels were stacked in the production area. To the ethanol, the distiller adds juniper— always the fundamental flavouring ingredient in all gins.

Leon led us through the barrels and shipping boxes to the other still, an elaborate copper-and-stainless contraption that recalled a Rube Goldberg machine, although all these drums, pipes and gauges have exact functions. In front of the still, a barrel top displayed small bowls, each containing a botanical that is added to the gin. We were tasked with identifying each one. We scrunched a juniper berry with a fingernail, feeling and sniffing its sticky, pine-scented core. Then we guessed the other ingredients, most of us guessing wrong.

Chuckling, Leon revealed the dishes contained lemon peel, coriander, angelica, orris root, rose petals, orange peel, star anise, cinnamon and sarsaparilla. How much of each of these ten ingredients is added to the gin remains a secret. “The challenge in making our premium gin lies in balancing these botanicals,” he said.

“And our flavor blendings are unique.

No one else produces the same taste.”

Victoria Distillers’ main product is its eponymous Victoria Gin. It was developed during the last decade by the previous owners of the company, then called Victoria Spirits. The Marker Group’s Grant Rogers bought the company recently and expanded the distillery by making it a waterfront destination. Peter Hunt, the company’s master distiller and manager, said that Rogers transformed the building, which recently provided the setting for the TV show, Gracepoint,

Royal Treatment 1 ½ oz. Victoria Gin 4 oz. white cranberry juice Sparkling wine Kiwi slices Some raspberries Some blackberries Six mint leaves

into an attraction for both locals and tourists.

Peter, who holds a master’s degree in molecular biology and has a decade-long experience transforming ethanol into highly valued spirits, described the subtleties of distilling.

“My background in chemistry helps a lot,” he said. “Distillation is a blend of art and science. You must combine a trained palate with product analysis and quality control.” He’s proud of the awards Victoria Gin has received.

In 2016, the spirit was awarded a gold medal by the Beverage Testing Institute and also won the Vancouver International Spirits Competition.

The company produces three other spirits as well. Oaken Gin has been aged in charred American white oak

Add ice to a wine glass, add gin, juice and top with sparkling wine. Add fruit and mint. Stir, drink, love!

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Plan your visit: Victoria Distillers 9891 Seaport Place Sidney, BC, V8L 4X3

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hello@victoriadistillers.com 250.544.8218 Lounge and tour bookings: 250.544.8217

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barrels supplied by Tennessee-based Jack Daniels. It has a soft amber color.

Left Coast Hemp Vodka is flavored by the oils of organic hemp hearts that impart a subtle hazelnut taste and is often paired with chocolate or coffee.

The final spirit on offer is an eau-devie distilled from a pinot noir base.

It’s a strong liqueur that can be sipped neat and is only available at the Sidney facility.

“We plan to add to our repertoire of spirits,” said Peter. “Our next venture is to make whisky. Rum is on the menu too.”

After the tour, we congregated at the tasting table, where Scott Klausen offered samples of the four spirits. Each had a distinct flavor. The signature gin would certainly render a gin and tonic a delicious treat—and deliver a firstclass martini. I could see serving the eau-de-vie as an after-dinner liqueur, and sipping the hemp vodka while enjoying a dark chocolate.

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Sunshine Coast Air Staying Small and Local

by Pat Awmack

A

lthough Josh Ramsay, owner of British Columbia’s Sunshine Coast Air, swears he’s sort of winging it and doesn’t have a five-year plan, it’s obvious that he has a vision for his fledgling company. His enthusiasm for flying floatplanes, natural friendliness and love of his job create an energy which, after a morning in his presence, left me totally stoked and with a firm belief that he’ll turn his business into a huge success.

Josh, who grew up in Thunder Bay,

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Ontario, loves living in Sechelt—a tiny town on BC’s scenic coast. As he explains, small-town life suits him and he loves the support that he receives from the community. Some of his passengers have been regular commuters on the Sechelt-to-Nanaimo scheduled flights for more than 10 years (since before he arrived in the area), and have turned into friends.

These friendships allow him to have his finger on the pulse of the community: an important detail when you’re

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a local small-business owner.

Sunshine Coast Air has only been in existence since June 2015, but Josh has been flying in the area for almost 10 years. After completing his twoyear flight management course at Confederation College in Thunder Bay, he worked as a bush pilot on and off for five years before making the move to BC. With a sister already living on Vancouver Island, and parents who loved to come out and visit, it seemed a natural choice.

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He was hired as a pilot with Tofino Air, where he worked for eight years, eventually becoming general manager. When Chris Danroth, owner of that airline, approached him about purchasing Tofino Air’s Sechelt-toNanaimo route, he jumped at the opportunity.

Asked if he’d ever considered working for one of the big airlines when he finished his training, he responded, “While the romance of traveling the world did appeal at one time, being away from home so much didn’t. With this job, I can work close to home and be a part of a community. I love flying on the water.”

In this, he is reminiscent of a legendary Sechelt pilot, Jack (Blackie) Apsouris, who flew the BC coast for more than 40 years. According to Blackie, the lure to life on the coast was about having a home base and flying through an environment of striking beauty, while being able to challenge oneself as a pilot.

Josh picked me up at Vancouver’s south terminal seaplane base, letting me tag along on a charter flying a dad and his two daughters—visiting from Florida—up to Pender Harbour, 30 minutes north of Vancouver. The sun was shining and the two girls were excited (as well as a bit apprehensive) about their first floatplane experience.

Despite the early-morning departure and the fact that we didn’t see any orcas, they enjoyed the flight.

While his four daily round-trip scheduled flights between his Sechelt base and Nanaimo are the bread and butter of his business, Josh gets the greatest kick out of showing the scenic “gems” to those he knows will appreciate them. His focus is on building his tourism business and running charters to stunning off-the-beaten-path destinations such as Chatterbox Falls— a magnificent waterfall at the end of nearby Princess Louisa Inlet.

During our flight home, Josh recounted a local legend about a glacially carved granite rock face beside the 58

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falls that the First Nations people call the “Keeper of the Inlet.” This piece of information made me wish that we had time to fly to the falls so that I could see it for myself … maybe some day!

Another scenic gem is glacier-fed Phantom Lake, whose brilliant turquoise hue is due to the colloidal rock flour or glacial debris suspended in the water. The lake, the falls and the stunning white-sand beaches of nearby Thormanby Island have all been destinations for recent charters booked by couples looking for a romantic spot in which to get engaged.

Sunshine Coast Air has two bases— one in downtown Nanaimo, an ideal location for those who are looking for scenic tours of the area, and one in a sheltered inlet in Sechelt, the gateway to BC’s Sunshine Coast.

We stopped in Sechelt for a quick refueling stop and, while I was disappointed that I wasn’t able to meet `

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base manager, Erin White, who had arranged my meeting with Josh, I did get to meet Sam Zimmerman, one of the company’s dispatchers. She’s lived in Sechelt all her life and has worked for Josh for two years. She was busy taking a reservation for a charter flight while we were in the office. Although passengers can book scheduled flights online, charters and scenic flights must be booked over the phone.

Sunshine Coast Air’s two pilots, Josh Ramsay and Steve Anderson, have a combined flying experience of more than 40 years—including more than 15 years here on the west coast.

This family-owned company is proud to be 100 percent locally owned and operated, and Josh stresses how very fortunate he is to have such a fantastic bunch of employees.

As Theressa Logan, Josh’s partner and the company’s marketing and sales manager explains, “The idea is to stay small and local. We are a laidback, casual airline, with ‘bush pilots’ (in a sense) who simply want to show off this amazing place we call home and of course, provide safe, affordable travel.” www.sunshinecoastair.com 60

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TO PADDLE OR TO PEDAL? When most of us think about kayaking, we picture the paddling itself; perfecting our strokes for speed and heading control. In strong currents, or over long distances, it can be quite an endurance test, and there are times I’ve arrived at the beach too tired to lift my burning arms in celebration.

However, there is an alternative to paddling, and with the latest development announced this summer, it’s worth a look. The new Hobie MirageDrive 180 forward-reverse pedal propulsion system will be integrated into all 2017 model-year Mirage kayaks from Hobie.

If you missed the original Hobie MirageDrive, introduced in 1997, it’s an 68

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ingenious pedal-drive that moves two fins back and forth under the kayak.

With each sweep of the blades, a significant force is produced, driving the kayak forward. The main advantage of this kind of drive is that it uses your leg muscles, the largest muscle groups in the body, to provide the power. And since the blades are mounted on the centerline of the kayak, each pedal thrust moves the kayak straight ahead.

There is no tendency to turn, as with a left- or right-handed paddle stroke.

Needless to say, the hands-free nature of the pedal drives means you can more easily use rudder controls, drink, eat and snap photos while on the move.

And of course, if you fish, it’s easier to

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by Tom Tripp

manage rods, reels and nets.

From experience, I can tell you that the original MirageDrive is capable of amazing power. Using twin drives in a double kayak, I felt as if we could have got the vessel up on-plane if we’d had the proper hull shape. The power output is not only variable, depending on the length and strength of your pedaling motion, but since the blades fold virtually flat against the bottom of the hull when either crank is pushed fullforward, shallow water and beaching pose no issue at all.

Now Hobie has significantly updated the drive and renamed it the MirageDrive 180, to reflect its new capability for full-power drive both

Hobie’s MirageDrive 180 uses push-pedals and a clever fin system to propel the kayak forward or back.

(Right) The Hobie MirageDrive 180 pedal/fin unit uses a pair of pedals and propulsion fins that drop right into a well in the hull.

The two finger cables shown here are used to reverse direction.

forward and backward. It’s exactly like having a reverse gear (or back-paddling), except you can go backward as fast as you can go forward. Simply pull one of two shift-cables to switch directions. Many of the obvious advantages will be best appreciated by yak fishers who may want to back a fish out of cover, more comfortably fish closer to obstructions, or even fish downstream while holding position in the current.

Although the forward-reverse capability is the most noticeable improvement to this new generation of the MirageDrive, it is not the only significant advancement. The new fins are more durable, with high-strength nylon on leading and trailing edges. Adjusting fin resistance has also been improved by easily twisting the access knob.

The MirageDrive 180 installs quick-

ly and easily with the Click and Go Mounting System, which also makes removal a snap. The pedal cranks adjust to comfortably fit the user’s height, from tall to child-size. Cleaning and maintenance is simple; a quick rinse at the end of the day and an occasional spray with Hobie Multi-Lube is all that’s needed.

Hobie says the MirageDrive 180 will be standard with all 2017 model-year Mirage kayaks, including the Outback and Pro Anglers. MSRP will increase by $150 for single MirageDrive kayaks and $300 for tandem kayaks.

2017 model-year kayaks were slated to begin shipping in October 2016.

The MirageDrive 180 is retrofitable to existing MirageDrive kayaks and is expected to be available as a stand-alone accessory by mid- 2017.

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Toasting the Holiday Festive Cocktails for the Holiday Season This year, do away with the eggnog and treat your guests to cocktails that reflect the spirit of the season with festive garnishes, colors and ingredients.

Add a twist to a traditional Irish whiskey with a Merry Irishman and toast to 2017 with a Melon Ball Drop. For dessert, Zen out and wind down with a warm Zen Latte.

Easy to make and pleasing to the most discerning palates, below are some seasonal cocktail trends and tastes created especially for the holidays. Cheers!

Very Merry Berry Holiday

2 oz light rum 3 dashes Pernod 1 oz lemon juice ½ oz grenadine Chilled club soda Shake and pour into a rocks glass or martini glass. Top with berries.

Hot Toddy

1 part Irish whiskey 1 slice of lemon 2 lumps of sugar Fill to top with hot water Combine all ingredients and stir well.

Serve in a glass mug and garnish with a cinnamon stick.

Holiday Hopper

1 oz Midori ½ oz Crème de Menthe Green ½ oz Crème de Cocao White 2 oz half-and-half Shake and strain into a martini glass.

Garnish with mint leaves and raspberry.

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Dreaming of Zen

1 oz Zen Green Tea Liqueur ½ oz Midori 3 oz mango juice White pepper 2 oz cream Shake/strain over ice into a martini glass or champagne flute.

Garnish with mint leaves and a dash of nutmeg.

Merry Irishman

2 parts Irish whiskey 1 part Kahlua ½ part mint schnapps Serve over ice in a rocks glass.

Garnish with candy cane.

Midori Melon Ball Drop

2 oz Midori 1 oz Skyy Citrus Infusions ½ oz elderflower liqueur Juice ½ lemon Sugar rim Shake and strain into a martini glass.

Garnish with a star fruit on the rim.

Zen Latte

1 ½ parts Zen Green Tea Liqueur 6 parts steamed milk Stir and garnish with matcha powder.

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Melon Ball Drop

Irish Iced Coffee

1 part Irish whiskey 1 part Irish Cream 1 part coffee liqueur (or a shot of espresso) Shake and pour into a rocks glass, top with whipped cream.

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Destinations

Seaplane & Boating Hotel Planter, La Conner, WA

From the moment we entered the Hotel Planter it was like stepping back into La Conner’s history, oldfashioned charm and spirit. A National Historic Inn, the cozy Hotel Planter is a charming old-style inn with the ambiance of times gone by.

This charismatic hotel is located on La Conner’s main street, on the second floor above retail shops of a heritage building. Guests enter this non-smoking environment from the street level and up a flight of 24 steps (there’s no elevator) to the front desk and lobby. There are 12 comfortable 74

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rooms with windows that open to the sounds of tourists below, or overlook another hotel attraction, an inviting courtyard filled with artwork.

It’s wonderful place to enjoy a glass of wine, read a book and relax in the comforting surroundings.

All the rooms are basic, but comfortable, with custom handmade furnishings, ceiling fans and meticuously maintained vintage décor, as well as modern amenities like a flat-screen TV in the armoire and free Wi-Fi. The suite has a private Jacuzzi tub; all other rooms have a shower. The

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by Deane Hislop

hotel has a policy of no pets or children with prior approval.

There is coffee and tea at the front desk, and complimentary bottled water in the rooms. The staff is friendly and very knowledgeable about the surrounding area. You’ll be treated as their personal guest—not just a room number In 1907, the Hotel Planter was built using solid concrete blocks on land purchased from Louisa A. Conner, the town’s namesake. The hotel was state of the art, offering 22 rooms, indoor plumbing (but just

one bathroom), electricity and a cement sidewalk. It provided shelter for wealthy tourists and visiting merchants. In time, it became home to many artists of all kinds seeking inexpensive shelter during the Depression. By the 1980s the hotel had been reduced to transient housing and was condemned.

The present owners, Donald and Cynthia Hoskins, undertook the task of bringing the hotel back to life.

Their intial goal was to renovate the first-floor level, which houses retail shops, while saving the building’s period integrity. Phase two took more than two years to remodel 22 rooms into 12, allowing for private bathrooms to be incorporated. The building received new electrical wiring, plumbing, insulation, sheetrock and heating systems. To keep the feeling of times gone by, the original doors, windows, railings, light fixtures and wood trim were reused. The hotel was reopened in September 1989.

Hotel Planter is centrally located, making it easy walking distance to a fine selection of restaurants, artisan shops, art, antiques, pubs and wineries. For breakfast it’s hard to beat Calico Cupboard or lunch at La Conner Brewery, while Seeds or Neil Thorn are good choices for dinner.

La Conner and the surrounding Skagit Valley have scheduled activities year-round. For a complete list of festivals, concerts and celebrations, check out www.lovelaconner.com.

The historic Hotel Planter is perfect for a romantic getaway or just an escape from the stress of everyday life.

Hotel Planter 715 First Street La Conner, WA 98257 360.466.4710 www.hotelplanter.com

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Alyeska Resort, Girdwood, AK

In my experience, restaurants that are known for their spectacular views are often memorable for another reason: mediocre food. But that axiom definitely does not apply to dining at the Seven Glaciers, a top-notch dining room at the top of the Alyeska Tramway.

And while the view from the restaurant—2,300 feet above the resort—is amazing, including glimpses of the Chugatch Mountains, seven glaciers and the waters of the Turnagain Arm, diners need to take their eyes off the menu long enough to answer some difficult dining questions: the BLT (bacon, lobster and tomato) salad, or the scallop bisque? Duck breast or lamb loin? Halibut, or a Waygu New York steak? Do you have a large enough 76

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appetite for a pound of king-crab legs, or just a half-pound?

Regardless of the decisions you make, you owe it yourself to leave room for dessert, particularly the wellnamed Baked Alyeska, that’s been described as “sculpture meets dessert.”

It’s two mousses—raspberry and chocolate—plus chocolate ganache and meringue.

But dining at Seven Glaciers is only one of many joys of staying at the Alyeska Resort ... although it’s worth mentioning there are five other restaurants in the hotel itself, in addition to the mountaintop Bore Tide Deli & Bar, and the nearby Sitzmark Bar & Grill, which features live entertainment.

First, Alyseka is home to world-class skiing in the winter; it’s regarded as the

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by Russ Young

best ski resort in the 49th State. The resort had a record 283 inches of snow in 1998. Oh—that was only during the month of December! It recorded 824 inches (68 feet!) during the 20152016 season. There are 1,600 skiable acres, nine lifts, terrain parks for freestylers and night skiing.

The resort is far from shuttered and shut down once the snow melts.

There’s terrific hiking during the summer; several trails begin and end at Alyeska, and there are dozens of others in the general vicinity. And if you’ve ever wondered about what downhill mountain biking is like, this is the place for you: three of the chairlifts are open for riders, there is terrain for all levels of experience, and lessons are offered for beginners.

There’s a plethora of other choices, ranging from ATV tours and bearviewing to yoga and ziplines. The resort will set you up with outfitters who can take you fishing for trout, salmon and/or halibut; go dog-sledding on a glacier; or go river rafting. There’s a great calendar of special events, both summer and winter; our recent visit coincided with the annual Blueberry Festival, with music, arts and crafts and—naturally—an incredible selection of blueberry-flavored edibles.

Then again, you can always just lounge around the resort and relax.

In addition to the variety of dining options, there is a magnificent spa, shops, a saltwater pool and a fitness center. Make sure you take some time to admire the Native Alaskan artwork in the lobby and public areas.

In fact, no one will blame you if you spend a lot of time in your room.

There are 301 to choose from, ranging from the pleasantly surprising, spacious and comfortable standard rooms to the 1,275 square-foot Royal Suite.

Perhaps best of all, Alyeska Resort is only 40 miles outside of Anchorage, which makes this slice of Alaskan life readily accessible to those of us in the Lower 48 ... and beyond.

Alyeska Resort 1000 Arlberg Avenue Girdwood, AK 99587 800.880.3880 www.alyeskaresort.com

The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine

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Secret Cove Treehouse, Half Moon Bay, BC

The great blue heron appears out of nowhere—gliding as silently as a ghost out of the morning fog—and somewhere nearby a raven’s distinctive raspy croak breaks the silence. As I sit in an Adirondack chair on my private deck at the Secret Cove Treehouse, hands warmed by my mug of morning coffee and legs wrapped in a blue wool blanket, I watch the sun burn off the September ocean mist.

As a child growing up in the Pacific Northwest, my siblings and I built many a tree fort, and nothing was more exciting than being allowed to sleep out overnight in our rustic abode. My stay at this property re78

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minds me of those innocent days … but with far more luxury.

Secret Cove Treehouse—more an Airbnb than a resort—is located on British Columbia’s Sunshine Coast.

This easily accessible wilderness area is a 20-minute seaplane flight or a 40-minute ferry ride from Vancouver.

The property itself is approximately a 30-minute drive north of the Langdale ferry terminal.

This intimate hideaway—popular with couples, honeymooners and outdoors enthusiasts—consists of the original cottage, which was stripped down and redesigned by owner and former textile designer, Stephen Se-

www.harborsmagazine.com

by Pat Awmack

nini, and two suites on the ground floor of the main house. Stephen lives on the top two levels of the beautiful wood structure.

The house is balanced on the edge of a cliff, overlooking a narrow inlet of the sea. It is fastened to the rock by seven anchors, which descend 7-½ feet below the surface. Wooden walkways connect the buildings and the overall impression is that you are truly living in a treehouse. Special care was taken when building the house five years ago to preserve as many trees as possible … including a nearby snag beside the deck, which was deliberately left in place as a prime roosting

spot for the local bird population.

It’s possible to rent the cottage— with its queen bed, full kitchen, sofa, TV and outdoor shower—or one of the suites. The two suites each have a king bed, an indoor two-person rain shower and a TV. The suites share a kitchen/living area as well as a private covered deck.

While the suite’s walls of windows, with their unfettered views of the surrounding forest, give the illusion of camping, the modern amenities such as the in-floor, hot-water radiant heating in both the bedroom and bathroom, the modern bathroom with its rain shower and the comfortable bed ensure that this experience is far from roughing it.

If you’re wondering what to do with yourself during your stay, there are two canoes available for use, a covered hot tub in which to soak away your aches, and miles and miles of hiking trails throughout the surrounding wilderness. Smuggler Cove Marine Provincial Park and its secluded boat moorage, beaver dams and boardwalks, is a three-minute drive away.

Or, you could simply snuggle up in one of those Adirondacks with a blanket, a book and a bottle of wine, breathe in the incredible air, listen to the birds ... and allow yourself to simply unwind.

If you arrive by boat or seaplane, Stephen is happy to come and pick you up. However, if you want to explore the area you will have to rent a car in the town of Sechelt. There is a minimum stay of two nights required, but I can guarantee you’ll wish you’d booked for much longer!

Secret Cove Treehouse Cottage and Suites 9752 Secret Road Halfmoon Bay, BC V0N 1Y2 604.989.3940 www.secretcovetreehouse.com The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine

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The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine

HARBORS |

81

CROSSWORD PUZZLE

Solution on page 81

HAR BOR S

ACROSS:

5. Sand dwellers 6. Largest seaplane operator in BC 10. Right side of vessel 11. Famous BC Gardens 12. Spit on Alaska’s Kenai Peninsula 14. Sound of the Discovery Islands 16. Canadian marine transport 18. Great BC snow skiing 20. Lake with seaplane base in Anchorage 22. Home of Roche Harbor 23. Back of vessel 24. SE Alaska cruise ship destination 25. Island off Nanaimo 27. A way to cook salmon 30. Home of the Flying Beaver 31. Where boaters cook 32. Harbour in Gulf Islands

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DOWN:

1. Alaskan crab 2. Boston _________ 3. Small paddle boat 4. Where one buys boating gear 7. Tugboats made in Washington state 8. Popular shellfish 9. Strait of _____ __ _______ 13. Strait by Port Hardy 15. Seaplane activity 17. Largest resort on Orcas Island 19. Largest park in Alaska 21. How to get to floating fishing lodges 24. Coho and Chinook 26. Popular seaplane model 28. Seaplane dock on Salt Spring Island 29. Capital of Alaska

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