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PUBLISHER / EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Katherine S. McKelvey BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT George V. Bivoino EDITOR Russ Young editor@harborsmagazine.com ART DIRECTOR Anika Colvin COPY EDITING Biff Burns ADVERTISING SALES Monica Ganz ads@harborsmagazine.com CONTRIBUTORS Gordon Baron Joshua Colvin Sue Frause Sean Griffin
Cindy Phillips Terry W. Sheely Tom Tripp Russ Young
PHOTO CREDITS Joshua Colvin, pgs. 14-19 Terry W. Sheely, pgs. 22-26 Kevin Kline, pg. 25 bottom Kevin Holmes, pg. 27 Gordon Baron & Cindy Phillips, pgs. 28-33 AJ Hunt, pgs. 40-46
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Welcome to HARBORS The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine
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Harbor Lights Greetings, HARBORS Magazine prides itself with providing you with wonderful destinations for boating and seaplane travel in the Pacific Northwest – places to go, things to do, and ideas for experiencing the waters of the Salish Sea and Inside Passage. But did you know that you can also save money by reading HARBORS? And who among us doesn’t like to save a buck (or a loonie)? So please take a close look at our advertisers and what they have to offer, because you’ll find some great deals:
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flying to the San Juan Islands from south Lake Washington. www.nwseaplanes.com 15% off Northwest Cellars wine, if you mention their ad in HARBORS. Their tasting room is located in Kirkland, WA. www.northwestcellars.com $40 off on Bella Maps: 3D wood maps of the islands, as seen at the Seattle Boat Show. Use promo code: HARBORS. www.bellamaps.com $40 off a private seaplane wine tour on Chelan Seaplanes. Use promo code HARBORS when you book online. www.chelanseaplanes.com
So be sure to take advantage of these offers – and save money – by letting them know you saw their ads in HARBORS! We’ve had incredible weather for the Pacific Northwest so far this summer, with record highs temperatures and very low precipitation. Seaplane travel has been up and boaters have been out more than usual, making safety and awareness on the water very important. If the summer weather continues into September and October we may have the longest boating season ever. So stay safe and enjoy the waterways of Washington, British Columbia and Alaska. In the spirit of the Pacific Northwest, save travels!
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2015 September/October
14
Features Misty Fjords Air
Ketchikan, AK
22
Hot Winter Salmon
28
Life in the Great Bear Rainforest
34
Travel Maps
40
On the Waterfront
48
Gulf of Georgia Cannery
Heat Up Your Holidays with San Juan Blackmouth Central Coast of British Columbia
Pacific Northwest Coastal Waterways
Lake Washington Home – Renton, WA
Steveston, BC
56
Thea Foss Waterway
66
Gear Guide
68
HARBORS Happenings
72
Seaplane & Boating Destinations
78
Who’s Who in the Pacific Northwest
(photo by Joshua Colvin)
Cover Photo: Secret lake landing in Misty Fjords, AK.
Tacoma, WA “Safe Seeing” on the Water Alexander Marine Rendezvous
Friday Harbor, WA • Ketchikan, AK • Seattle, WA
Meet the Faces of HARBORS Destinations
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Misty Fjords Air By Joshua Colvin
S
“
hould we land down here so you can get some pictures?” our pilot, Dave Doyon, asks. I can only hope his question is rhetorical, because although I’m in the co-pilot’s seat, I have no idea whether attempting to set our floatplane down on this remote glacial lake is a good decision. I adjust my headset and check my seatbelt. We’re a few thousand feet over the Misty Fjords, a wilderness area about 40 miles outside of Ketchikan, Alaska. Granite peaks hewn by glaciers 70 millennia ago rise up around us as near-vertical walls 3,000 feet above sea level. Typically these walls are shrouded in the mist that gives this national monument its name, but we’ve caught perfect sunny weather and are rewarded with an impossible pallet of colors. Under a cobalt sky, snow-capped peaks plunge toward a dense green line of spruce, hemlock and cedar. Directly below us are but a few of the myriad ocean inlets and lakes. Close your eyes and think “Alaska,” and this is what you see. “Just make sure to keep your knees down so the wheel doesn’t hit you,” Dave says as he pushes the Cessna 185 into a sweeping descent. The scale of this place is impossible to convey. Misty Fjords National Monument is 2.3 million acres of designated wilderness, but The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine
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the “Mistys” are only a tiny portion of the 17 million acre Tongass National Forest—the largest in the United States. We’ve been flying for a little better than half an hour and I’ve yet to see a sign of civilization other than a handful of boats – and it’s June. “Where is everybody?” I ask. “Aren’t there usually more people and boats?” “No, this about right,” Dave says, smiling. Dave, whom everyone at his company calls “Senior,” is the president and CEO of Misty Fjords Air, a floatplane airline and outfitter in Ketchikan. He arrived in Alaska in 1971 as an Airborne Special Forces Vietnam vet, and worked as a commercial fisherman and big-game guide (among other things) before starting his now-renowned air carrier service in 1981. An executive airline, Misty Fjords Air offers “flightseeing” tours for between three and ten passengers aboard their fleet of planes—the Cessna 185, two de Havilland Beavers and one larger de Havilland Otter. They also provide a full range of charter options, and perform everything from aerial surveys to fishspotting assignments. The airline is located at Doyon’s Landing, a private facility with a 400-foot floating steel dock that accommodates luxury yachts, and supplements the airline and outfitting business. One of the most intriguing itineraries is to have the airline drop your party and gear off at one of the many remote Fjord lakes—some have Forest Service cabins and rowboats ashore—for a week of camping and exploration. The Misty Fjords Air employees seem almost like a family. The land crew of five—two flight dispatchers, a dock general manager, and two dockhands—and the five pilots work together closely, and seem to have nearly as much fun as their
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passengers. The day we visited, the staff was grilling up fresh-caught salmon for lunch at the floating hangar that serves as their base of operations. And it’s no coincidence Dave is known as “Senior” – his son, Captain David Doyon II, is one of the pilots and the company’s Director of Operations. While the staff is relaxed and familial, they are also extremely professional. We watched several flights come and go, and the entire process was remarkably precise. Nothing could be more reassuring than the meticulous appearance of the planes themselves – each was as spotless as a pampered collectible car. It came as no surprise to learn later that Misty Fjords Air has not had a single accident or incident in their 34-year history. After the sweeping turn, we continue our descent until we’re landing softly at the south end of a lake Dave reluctantly tells us the name of – it’s one of his favorite spots. We taxi over near the rocky shore, and Senior cuts the engines. With the plane still moving through the water, he unbuckles, opens the door, steps down onto the float and waits as the plane glides to precisely where he intended. He steps ashore without getting his feet wet. I climb out of the plane and we walk up to a comfortable spot on the hillside. Sitting in the sunshine, breathing pure air beside a burbling waterfall, surrounded by towering granite walls, without another soul in sight, I still can’t believe we could get from bustling Ketchikan to a place so raw, so remote, and so beautiful in so short a time. I can’t help but think Dave is facilitating a once-in-a-lifetime experience. “Thanks for doing this,” I say. “It’s unbelievable.” “You’re welcome,” he says. “This is what we do.” www.mistyfjordsair.com
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The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine
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Hot Winter Salmon Heat Up Your Holidays with San Juan Blackmouth
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By Terry W. Sheely
t’s as if a page turns in Washington’s San Juan Islands. Summer departs, and with it goes thousands of vacationers, pleasure boaters, sidewalk crowds and the bustling strings of recreationalists roller-coasting through the archipelago’s spectacular superlatives. On the next page is the quiet, calendar-perfect visual poetry of saltwater scenes backlit by the hacksaw peaks of distant Olympic Mountains—and feisty winter salmon. They’re perhaps
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the best big-salmon holiday option left in Washington. The San Juans are a different place in the off-season, a startlingly quiet scramble of islands edged with rows of red madrona trees, narrow channels, and wide passes, reefs and points where resident winter salmon known as ‘blackmouth’ sometimes gorge like ravished teenagers. The comparatively few dedicated fishermen and who search out this winter plum, who fish with near-religious fervor, have it
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pretty much to themselves. And what they have are fishing days of extraordinarily rainless weather in the weather shadow behind the Olympic range, at an intersection of candlefish, herring and squid baitfish balls that attract immature feeder chinook salmon from multiple hatcheries. Now add the plus of light fishing pressure attributed to a phantom salmon season that doesn’t open until Dec. 1, after most boats are winterized and tucked into storage, a long
trip from urban centers, and holidayseason obligations. The winter blackmouth season in the islands is officially open December through April, but predictably Washington’s Department of Fish & Wildlife (WDFW) will shut the fishery down in mid-season, especially if anglers are more successful than expected. After salmon managers have a chance to juggle catch-counts and survival estimates, the season may re-open in late February or March, but the end game is to assure ample survival to fuel future blackmouth fisheries. The biggest blackmouth are caught late in the season, but by then there is risk of emergency closure. One of the state’s most popular salmon derbies, the Roche Harbor Salmon Classic, doesn’t start until the first week in February, after the island blackmouth have had a chance to pack on pounds. WDFW manages the sport fishery to exclusively target hatchery-produced chinook, identified by a missing adipose fin on the lower back. Hatchery blackmouth are fin-clipped as smolts in saltwater hatcheries, giving anglers a quick way of differentiating a harvestable fish from a mandatory-release unclipped wild chinook, some of which belong to imperilled or endangered runs. Removed adipose fin (hatchery salmon)
Intact adipose fin (wild salmon)
To give wild chinook the best chance of surviving a hook encounter, the regulations require single-point barbless hooks and prohibit bringing incidentally hooked wild salmon inThe Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine
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side a boat’s gunwale. Wild fish must be released outside the boat, ideally while still in the water. Fortunately, according to WDFW research, the legal hatchery blackmouth outnumber the illegal wild salmon by about three-to-one. Those are good odds for catching keepers. Washington’s salmon managers unabashedly describe the San Juan blackmouth fishery as “one of the hottest places to fish for cold-weather chinook.” They confirm that the winter fishery here typically produces an exceptional number of chinook in the high-teens and 20-pound range. That’s the high end of the fishery. Realistic anglers expect a lot of San Juan winter salmon at the lower- and mid-range of the size scale, from the 22-inch minimum up to 28 inches – prime dinner size. The average blackmouth caught and kept is 6-10 pounds, confirms Ryan Lothrop, Puget Sound recreational salmon fishery manager. Blackmouth are immature kings, at their peak of physical fitness. They bite aggressively, fight hard and their bright orange/red fillets hit the palate like melting butter. A few diehards still favor mooching plug-cut or spinner-cut herring but by far most San Juan blackmouth are caught on the troll, using downriggers. Herring baits, or more likely small spoons, plugs or plastic squid. One of the keys to loading a cooler with legal-size San Juan blackmouth is the saltwater version of “matching the hatch.” Typically, winter baitfish and smaller versions of spoons, plugs, hoochies and plug-cut herring closely match the physical size of prime-chinook prey. Small spoons are a local favorite. Jay Field is a long-time San Juan salmon chaser, operating Dash One Charters, and he’s locked into trolling with downriggers. He has a list of proven favorites when herring are the dominant bait, including Needlefish Hoochies and Ace Hi Flies in green 24
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spatterback patterns, rigged on a tandem 4/0 hook, 32 inches behind an 11-inch flasher. In his tackle box you’ll also find candlefish imitators like the ultrathin Coho Killer spoons in watermelon, white and chrome finishes. He knots these 26 inches behind a smaller 8-inch flasher, and if necessary, like most San Juan experts, he’ll sometimes tag a sliver of fresh herring on one of the hooks. On some days, Field says, nothing will produce better than fresh herring. When that happens in blackmouth season, he buys small green-label baits, hooks them onto a tandem 3/0-4/0 leader of 20-pound test, cut to approximately 8 feet. Another San Juan fanatic is Tony Floor, fishing affairs director for the Northwest Marine Trade Association. Given half a chance that he won’t be swarmed by pesky dogfish sharks, Floor bets his days on naked herring. No hardware—just herring. His go-to rig for holiday-season salmon is green-label herring, plugcut and impaled on a pair of Lazer Sharp hooks. He angle-cuts each herring so that it spins in tight circles at slow speeds (1½ to 2 knots). He favors a 3/0 hook in front and a 2/0 back hook on six feet of 15-poundtest fluorocarbon leader he’ll knot in a bead-chain swivel above the bait to prevent line twists and catch weeds. Floor often uses a downrigger with a release at 25 feet behind the ball, eases along with the tide flow, and with his bait spinning 5 to 10 feet off bottom. Another local expert, Salmon University’s Tom Nelson, agrees with the small-lure, small-bait philosophy favoring small spoons like needlefish, Coho Killers, Sonic Edge and Ace Hi Flys. However, he goes the extra step of smearing the hardware with artificial scent. Tom favors shrimp and anchovy pastes, and trolls them with an 11-inch flasher about 20 feet 26
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behind the downrigger release, just off the bottom in 75 to 150 feet of water. The islands offer a maze of secret spots and honey holes, but until you get a handle on a “secret” hot spot, there are several not-so-secret winter spots to hit. You’ll be in proven blackmouth water at Thatcher Pass between Blakely and Decatur islands; the north end of Rosario Strait at Point Lawrence on the east side of Orcas Island; the west side of Cypress Island along Tide Point; and the south end of San Juan Island at Eagle Point and Salmon Bank. If you don’t have your own boat or prefer to first tap the expertise of a local expert, several charter boats operate out the islands and nearby Anacortes. Good weather, good fishing, spectacular scenery, a rain-shadow shield, uncrowded water and hot salmon fishing to light up your winter; for me, that’s a San Juan holiday. The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine
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Life in the Great Bear Rainforest By Cindy Phillips and Gordon Baron
W
hen we first heard the words “Great Bear Rainforest,” our immediate thoughts were of a very rare and special place of ancient trees, misty fjords and grizzly bears. Over the following two decades, exploring the central coast of British Columbia by air and water has brought a new perspective to our definition of “adventure.” Living here has given us opportunities to record the dramatic biodiversity of the region’s precious ecosystem with our cameras. Located on the western edge of the Great Bear Rainforest, 250 miles northwest from Vancouver, is the Hakai Luxvbalis Conservancy. This protected area covers over 1,200 square kilometers of land and sea, and is the largest marine conservancy on BC’s coast. The Provincial Marine Park is co-managed by BC Parks, Tula Foundation and First Nations people. Their goal is to perform research, and monitor and protect this pristine coastal environment for future generations to enjoy. People have been coming to the area for more than 10,000 years to fish and gather shellfish. This is home to the First Nations Heiltsuk in Bella Bella, the Nuxalk in Bella Coola and the Oweekeno people in Rivers Inlet. For generations they have used the The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine
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ocean’s resources to supply their villages with seafood, and used sections of old-growth forest and cultural modified trees (CMT) to build longhouses, and to make canoes, clothing, masks and baskets. History, culture and traditions have revolved around fishing, and salmon has been responsible for the economic development of BC’s coastal communities. Exploring the Great Bear Rainforest is taking a voyage through time. Evidence of ancient cultures is carved into the rock faces. Shell middens from old summer villages line the beaches. Inland, big Western Cedar trees were modified for traditional purposes by the indigenous people centuries ago.
There is something for everyone who wants a wilderness adventure on BC’s Central Coast. Located within the Hakai archipelago is 20-mile long Calvert Island. The island is separated from BC’s mainland by the Inside Passage of Fitz Hugh Sound. Commercial vessels traveling to and from Alaska have used this corridor for protection from the Pacific’s open waters since the 18th century. The island’s reputation for powder-sand beaches, big surf, acrobatic sealife, fantastic sunsets, and excellent fishing and crabbing makes this a world-class destination for the ultimate outdoor experience. Air- and sea-charter companies have expanded their services to Calvert Island over the last few decades, giving visitors opportunities to experience nature and the environment. In the late 1990s, we had the rare privilege to live alone on this secluded island for three winters. Our new home overlooked the rocky eastern shore of Pruth Bay. From here, a
ten-minute walk on a forested path opens up to a stunning oceanfront aptly named West Beach. Our second winter on Calvert Island proved a challenge, with heavy monsoons and blown-down trees wiping out a network of trails. We built a series of floating bridges and boardwalks over what was then a muddy creek connecting to West Beach and a boggy wetland leading to North Beach. This trail leads to the north end of Calvert Island and looks out to the Surf Islands, Choked Passage and Hakai Pass. The rugged landscape, small islands and reefs facing North Beach are stunning. BC Parks is working with Tula Foundation and First Nations communities replacing our bridges, ladders and boardwalks, upgrading North and South Beach trails. The transformation has made this into a first-class hiking destination for the regular guy. The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine
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However, the best way to see this archipelago is by boat. This maze of islands includes floating forests of bull kelp, stunted windblown trees slanting east from offshore hurricanes, white sand and shelled beaches, plus undersea gardens of sealife. The sea bottom is mostly sand with shallow rocky reefs. Exploring the north end of Calvert Island requires extreme caution; the bottom comes up very quickly in places and is hard to see in choppy swells. We use a depth sounder and a spotter on the bow for navigation in Choked Passage and around the Surf Islands group. In early summer, tides reach lows of around 0.0 feet for a few days in the early mornings. This is great for walking along hard-packed sand beaches on the west side of Calvert Island, exploring inter-tidal sealife. The 12 white-sand beaches on the west side and north end of the island have been rated as some of Canada’s best beaches. We have never seen a grizzly on Calvert Island, but just a few miles east, at the entrance to Rivers Inlet, we have had a number of encounters on land and at sea. When the herring start to come inland from the Pacific, this brings salmon through the narrow passages, up the fjords and inlets to rivers and streams to spawn, starting a chainreaction of activities. At first light, we use a powerboat to get to our location fast, then anchor out using two anchors – which can be tricky if you do not know currents, depths or tides. When there is a big tide change (14-17 feet), water goes out fast on shallow shorelines. Within a couple of minutes your support boat can be beached. This can be very dangerous in bear country with no escape route. We use sit-on-top kayaks that are wide and stable, giving us an advantage in going ashore with a pack full of camera gear. The silence of drifting 32
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on the water gets us up-close to animals, both next to the rocky shoreline and close to the bottom, viewing sealife through the kayaks’plexiglass windows. Drawing only three inches of water enables us to cross shallow lagoons and beach ourselves on just about any type of terrain. Open cockpits make it easy for a fast exit, before the next rolling wave hits the beach and kayak. Nonetheless, we always carry dry clothes and our camera gear in waterproof bags. There is something for everyone who wants a wilderness adventure in BC’s Central Coast. For us, it is the rugged landscape, sealife, sandy beaches and sunsets. Living with wildlife every day allows you to observe and study some of their habits; hopefully they do not see you as a threat. You soon realize that it is possible to live in harmony with nature and it becomes apparent that “the simplest things in life are free.”
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Ketchikan to Skagway
Alaska
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et
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Nimmo bay
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Vernon Lake
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* seaplane service available at all destinations by charter.
broughton islands desolation sound discovery islands Nanaimo North vancouver island sunshine Coast west vancouver island
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Cortes island denman island Hornby island Galiano island mayne island Pender island Powell river Quadra island salt spring island saturna island sunshine Coast southern Gulf islands vancouver victoria
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toba wildernest
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Nelson I.
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Powell river
Lake
The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine riol
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Galiano I.
Silva Bay
I Narrows
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Pt. Grey
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Pt. Atkinson
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Gambier I.
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suNsHiNe Coast
bowen island
GibsoNs
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Princess Royal Reach
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PeNder Harbour Garden bay madeira Park
Strait of Georgia
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Cape Flattery
Neah Bay
Tatoosh I.
Bamfield
False Bay
Lopez Airport
Friday Harbor
Clallam Bay
Sekiu
SAN JUAN ISLANDS
Lime Kiln Pt.
Roche Harbor Airport
Speiden I.
LOPEZ ISLAND
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Fidalgo I.
Sooke
Freshwater Bay Angeles Pt.
Sinclair I.
r.
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Maple Bay Duncan
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VICTORIA
Butchart Gardens
Inner Harbour
Sooke Lake
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Kuper I.
Ganges
Sidney I.
James I.
Sidney
Lopez I.
Shaw I.
I
Decatur I.
Blakely I.
Str
Anacortes
Guemes I.
Birch Bay
Samish Bay
Portage I.
Lake Samish
BELLINGHAM Lake Whatcom
Bellingham International Airport
Abbotsford
an Indi
White Rock
Blaine
Bellingham Bay
Sandy Pt. Lummi Bay Lummi I.
Sinclair I.
Cypress I.
Boundary Bay
Boundary Bay Airport
Richmond
Semiahmoo
Matia I.
Sucia I.
Patos I.
Pt. Doughty
Waldron I. l anne nt Ch e Presid
Speiden I.
Iceberg Pt.
Cattle Pt.
Saturna I.
Lyall Harbour
Point Roberts
Tsawwassen
Westham I.
Burrard Inlet
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VANCOUVER Coal Harbour
Pt. Grey
Pt. Atkinson
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CO AS T ough Chann el n br
Thor
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BEDWELL HARBOUR
Johns I.
Griffin Bay
San Juan Island
Henry I.
Gibsons
Vancouver International Airport/ Fraser River
Mayne I.
Miner’s Bay
GULF ISLANDS
Stuart I.
Moresby I.
Port Washington
Sechelt
Strait of Georgia
Galiano I.
Telegraph Harbour
Thetis I.
Silva Bay
MONTAGUE HARBOUR
Chemainus
Ladysmith
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VICTORIA INTERNATIONAL N. & S. AIRPORT/PATRICIA BAY Pender Is.
Anacortes
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Mt. Constitution 2,407 ft./734m
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Sucia I.
VANCOUVER ISLAND
Allan I.
Burrows I.
Sperry Peninsula
Decatur I.
Blakely I.
ISLAND
ORCAS
Camp Orkila
West Sound
Fisherman Bay
Shaw I.
Jones I. SAN JUAN Deer Harbor ISLAND
Roche Harbor
Henry I.
Waldron I.
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s I.
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38 U MO
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Nanaimo to Olympia
Puget Sound
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Bellingham Gulf Islands Nanaimo Puget Sound Salt Spring Island San Juan Islands Seattle Vancouver Island Victoria
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Olympia Regional Airport
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The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine American Lake
Fox I.
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Lake Youngs
Seattle-Tacoma International Airport
Issaquah
Lake Sammammish
o Kirkland n gt shi Bellevue
Renton
nd ou
Kenmore Air Harbor
Lake Union
SEATTLE
Edmonds
S ion
Hat I.
Langley
Port Susan
Paine Field
ss sse Po
Clinton
Possession Pt.
Scatchet Pt.
Double Bluff Useless Bay Pt. No Point
Freeland
Port Gamble
Elliott Bay
Boeing Field
Blake I.
Ba
id br
ge
Poulsbo
Bangor
Keystone
Cove
Oak Harbor
Pt. Wilson
Bush Pt.
Hood Canal Br.
Port Ludlow
Di Port Hadlock
Deception Pass
Decatur I.
NAS Whidbey Island
Smith I.
Iceberg Pt.
Coupeville Penn
Port Townsend
Protection I.
Kiana Lodge
TACOMA
Tacoma Narrows Br.
n ho s Va
Bremerton
Seabeck
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Da
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Sequim Bay
Joint Base Lewis-McChord
Tacoma Narrows Airport M cN eil
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sco very Bay
Puge t
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Anacortes
Guemes I.
Cypress I.
alg LaConner
Everett
Arlington
S
W
Burlington
Lake Samish
Mount Vernon
Samish Bay
Lake Stevens
Lake Goodwin
Skagit Bay
Fid
Freshwater Bay Angeles Pt.
Lake Wa rcer I.
assage
BC Ferries Service
Harts tin
Indian I. Marro wston e I.
S o u nd
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Ho lm
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Lopez I.
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On the Waterfront Waterfront Living in the Pacific Northwest
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Lake Washington Waterfront Making the Most of the Available Space By Russ Young
Robert and Mary Cugini had an opportunity, and a challenge: after the sale and subsequent development of his family’s longtime sawmill at the edge of Lake Washington in Renton, Washington, they still owned a “leftover:” a long, narrow strip of lakefront property that was originally intended as campsites, or for vacation cottages, at the turn of the 20th century. Their opportunity was to use the land as a waterfront retreat with three townhouses and a shared boathouse for Robert and Mary, and his two sisters. Making that plan come to fruition was the challenge. In the 1950s, when Robert’s grandfather Alex Cugini began operating Renton’s Barbee Mill, there were 14 sawmills in the Seattle area. By 2000, it was the only one left. In 2006, the mill was shut down and the site was divided into parcels for development: the Seattle Seahawks subsequently built their football-training center on the northermost land; the central portion was sold to a developer who has since The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine
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built 114 townhomes on the site. That left the Cuginis with approximately 260 feet of lakefront, bordered to the south by a pumping station and other homes, and to the east by railroad tracks. It took 12 years from 1999 -- when Robert, Mary and Baylis Architects first began working with local, state and federal agencies and the Burlington Northern Santa Fe Railroad – until construction began on the three homes. But their persistence and perseverance paid off, and the results are dramatic.
One of the restrictions of building at the edge of the 22-mile-long lake is that the entire site had to be landscaped using native plants and no chemical fertilizers.
The three townhomes, which range in size from 2,200 to 2,600 square feet are complementary, but not identical. And while they are oriented to focus on the views of the lake to the west, and to maximize the privacy of each, they share the site to give each one a feeling of more space. One of the restrictions of building at the edge of the 22-mile-long lake is that the entire site had to be landscaped using native plants and no chemical fertilizers. Robert admits to being reticent at first, but he and Mary agreed with the stipulation. Now he says “it grows like crazy, but it’s turned out well.” The landscaping is in harmony with the wildlife that is visible from each of the homes: ducks, otters, beaver, turtles and deer. And all manner of birds: there’s a bald eagle who has assumed residency on a perch that was originally intended for an osprey who lived near the mill; there’s also a “very aggressive” woodpecker who 42
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occasionally tries tapping on some of the metal siding used on the houses. As you can imagine of houses built at the site of a mill by a family that was in the forest-products business for nearly a century, wood is the material of choice inside the three townhomes. The framing was all from the
As you can imagine of houses built at the site of a mill by a family that was in the forest-products business for nearly a century, wood is the material of choice inside the three townhomes. mill. Two of the homes have Douglas fir floors; the other has yellow-cedar flooring, also all from Barbee Mill. There is also walnut flooring and stairs, and sycamore cabinetry. At the south end of the site there is a shared cabana. It overlooks a dock that has three slips and a Sunlift hydraulic boat lift. At the northern end of the property sits a beautiful floating boathouse with exposed wooden columns and a curved roof. Open the doors, and inside you will find the Cugini’s 52-foot Ocean Alexander, Altino. (It’s named after the town in Italy from which Robert’s grandfather emigrated to the U.S.) Shoreline regulations dictated that the boathouse could only be built within the footprint of an earlier structure that was in the same location. That footprint was 53 feet in length, which means that there is a mere six inches of clearance at the bow and stern when Altino is tied up inside. “Making sure we got that right was the ultimate in ‘measure twice and cut once,” said Robert. Much like the three townhomes, the boathouse is a prime example of making the most of the available space. The results are impressive. 44
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Enchanting Griffin Bay Waterfront Home Airy beach-side residence minutes from town or the San Juan Golf and Country Club. Linda McMahon
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Johan Luchsinger Architect Johan Luchsinger of Baylis Architects in Renton, Washington is the first to say that projects like the Cugini townhomes are team efforts. Although the project architect – in this case, Johan – usually gets the lion’s share of the credit, he hastens to point out his collaboration with Baylis’ principal in charge, Rich Wagner, project manager John D’Agnone, and designers Scott Becker and Troy Howe. There was another essential team member: homeowner Mary Cugini, who had a guiding hand in the interior design. Her husband Robert was also a ‘hands-on” participant in identifying finishes, fixtures and equipment for the three townhomes and the boathouse. Walking the site, Johan takes particular pride in the details, right down to the lighted metal “address monuments” that identify the entry to each of the homes. A graduate of the University of California at Berkeley, he has been with Baylis for more than 32 years. Surprisingly, the Cugini’s townhomes were is first waterfront project.
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Gulf of Georgia Cannery Remembering When Canneries Were King By Russ Young
I
f you’ve got a little (or perhaps more than just a little) gray hair, and grew up beyond a short distance from a salmon fishery, you probably can remember thinking that salmon was something that came in a can. That was the case prior to the days of fresh fish being flown around the world, and/or the magic of flashfreezing them. There was a time when salmon canneries were an enormous business in British Columbia, and there is no better means of exploring and honoring that past than visiting the Gulf of Georgia Cannery in Canada’s largest commercial fishing port – Steveston, BC. The cannery is representative of an industry that was once among the province’s largest employers and whose workers produced one of BC’s principal export commodities. Today, it is a national historic site and home to a museum presenting the history of Canada’s West Coast fishing industry. Built in 1894, the cannery was one of more than 15 such facilities that lined “cannery row” in Steveston, and
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Over time, the army of people manually canning salmon gradually gave way to high-speed machinery. among the 76 canneries along the length of BC’s coastline. It was legendary among them, being known as the “Monster Cannery” – packing more than 2.5 million cans of salmon in 1897. That was during the heyday of the industry and soon the cannery boasted hundreds of employees. Each canning season brought together a diverse mix of workers, usually of First Nations, Chinese and Japanese descent. Over time, the army of people manually canning salmon gradually gave way to high-speed machinery. For the Gulf of Georgia Cannery, the toll was a diminished role in the industry, with the last can of sockeye coming off the production line in 1930. As a result, the cannery was idle during the 1930s, but with the outbreak of World War II, it came back to life, thanks to a different fish: herring. New machinery and an army of civilians produced countless cases of canned herring in tomato sauce, a major source of protein for Allied soldiers and hungry European civilians during the war. Herring canning became a major activity and with it it grew the business of herring reduction, (the transformation of herring into protein-rich oil and meal feeding animals. The end of World War II brought the end of herring canning in British Columbia. At the Gulf of Georgia Cannery, herring reduction became the predominant activity by the late 1940s. The rise of this industry was reflected by the growth of the building, which was expanded three times before the herring-reduction industry was crippled by over-fishing and government closure in the late 1960s. 50
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Collectively, these items tell the story of the West Coast fishing industry, and reflect the people, places, and events that were integral to this history. After a brief rally created by Japanese demand for herring roe in the 1970s, by 1979, the cost of operating the cannery became prohibitive and the reduction plant was closed. Thanks to the efforts of local leaders, working in conjunction with the Canadian government, the cannery was saved from destruction and opened as a museum in 1994 – timed to celebrate the cannery’s centennial. Established in 1986, the Gulf of Georgia Cannery Society is an independent non-profit society and registered charity responsible for operating the cannery on behalf of Parks Canada. Since the 1980s the Society has worked in partnership with Parks Canada to preserve the facility and is now responsible for the interpretation (tours and educational programs), site promotion and regular maintenance. The society cares for more than 7,500 artifacts. There is also an archive of historic documents, images, sound recordings, and a reference books. Collectively, these items tell the story of the West Coast fishing industry, and reflect the people, places, and events that were integral to this history. In addition to operating the Gulf of Georgia Cannery, the Society works to achieve its mission through activities such as creating feature exhibitions related to fishing history and environmental issues. The site hosts a summer music series, and the building provides shelter every other Sunday for a unique October-April indoor farmer’s market that features only products that are “made, baked, grown, raised, 52
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caught or harvested by approved B.C. vendors.” The ongoing canning-line exhibit shares stories of virtual mountains of sockeye salmon being processed both hand-labor and factory equipment. Encompassing more than 4,000 square feet, this interactive, multi-media exhibit demonstrates the process of salmon canning on a 1930s -1950s era canning line. A guided tour along the line reveals the personal stories of cannery workers who worked amidst the steam, noise, and odors of fish slime and machine oil. It may initially seem counterintuitive that the cannery’s primary exhibit might start at the back of the building, until one realizes that it is laid out to follow the path the salmon would have taken; i.e., coming into the back of the cannery from fishing boats. The exhibit is part of what Marketing and Visitor Services Manager Mimi Horita says is an attempt to engage all five of the senses for those who tour the cannery. The tour and exhibit is intended to not only explain process of packing salmon into tin cans, but to share the “social history” of the industry and the people that it employed. A visit to the Gulf of Georgia Cannery is an absolute must if you’re going to be visiting Steveston. Then again, it might arguably characterized as the reason to come to the village, then experiencing everything else the area has to offer. www.gulfofgeorgiacannery.org Editors note: When the HARBORS Magazine team spent a long weekend earlier this year in Steveston, British Columbia, we envisioned that our visit to the Gulf of Georgia Cannery would rate a few paragraphs in a round-up story. However, we were so impressed by what we saw, heard and learned at the cannery that we decided it rated its own story. If you didn’t get a chance to read about of the village of Steveston, its history, and what to see and where to go, check out our July-August 2015 issue. 54
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Thea Foss Waterway From Blight to Beauty By Sean Griffin
M
y first trip to Tacoma, Washington was a driveby, in the spring of 1982, and it was an unprecedented olfactory assault. Whatever that intense, pervasive catbox-like aroma was couldn’t possibly be good for you, and I recall trying to hold my breath as I passed through the downtown area and port. Seattleites derided the “aroma of Tacoma” with good reason. A decade after my first visit, I moved to Tacoma, and got my first introduction to the Thea Foss Waterway. Here’s what I recall: an industrial cesspool, polluted by decades of toxic chemicals, solvents, sludge and heavy metals from businesses that ranged from a coal-gasification plant to a plating facility. Where it came closest to downtown, a mile-long stretch of Pacific Avenue, I mostly found boarded-up, abandoned warehouses and fractured sidewalks largely populated by disreputable people. In other words, you only cruised to the Thea Foss if you needed a major
repair that required the attention of a boatyard. That was then. This is now: a bluecollar city once derided as the armpit of the Pacific Northwest has been transformed into one of the region’s most dynamic, upscale and desirable places to visit, raise a family and/or do business. One of the starkest manifestations of that sea-change is found along the Thea Foss Waterway. The difference between my 1992 impression of the Thea Foss and today’s couldn’t be more striking. The aroma is gone – unless you like the smell of fresh sea breezes. There is life all along the Foss: restaurants, art galleries, parks, condos, apartment buildings and museums; even the Thea Foss Esplanade, a linear park along the waterfront and on both sides of the waterway, with signs that tell the story of the Foss’ transformation. The esplanade links to a waterfront trail that leads to Tacoma’s Ruston Way waterfront, which will continue all the way to Point Defi-
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ance Park sometime around 2018. The turnaround is the quintessential “darkest hour is just before dawn” story. The nadir was the federal government’s recognition in 1983 that the Thea Foss was one of the most polluted sites in the nation, adding it to the Commencement Bay Superfund site. Coming with that recognition, however, was funding for the cleanup. What ensued was an extraordinary public-private partnership that led to a transformation of the waterfront and the adjoining Union Station Historic District. Union Station, a stunning Beaux Arts building dating to 1911 – once slated for demolition – was restored to its former elegance, becoming home to the federal courts and a large collection of glass art by native son Dale Chihuly. Then work began on a new Washington State History Museum, a convention center, a new Tacoma Art Museum and the crown jewel – a University of Washington campus, preserving, restoring and transforming many of those boarded-up warehouses I saw in 1992 into an urban gem of a college campus. Those successes, and the momentum of the public-private partnerships, resulted in Tacoma being the first community in Washington to get a light-rail system up and running. It’s a 1.6-mile leg that reaches from Tacoma Dome station, travels through the Union Station Historic District, paralleling the waterway, and reaches its turnaround in the heart of Tacoma’s theatre district. To guide the transformation of the waterway – and free it from undue political interference – Tacoma created the Foss Waterway Development Authority, whose vision was to guide the creation of a diverse and multi-use community with residential, cultural, arts, culinary, educational and maritime activities. Near the north end of the Foss is one of Tacoma’s lesser-known gems, the Foss Waterway Seaport, billing 58
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itself as Puget Sound’s premier maritime heritage, education and event center. There is extensive moorage at the Foss Waterway Seaport dock, including a new seaplane float at the north end, making it one of the few museums directly accessible by sea and air. Maritime exhibits include some of the original rowboats that Thea Foss – she of “Tugboat Annie” fame – rented and sold beginning in 1889, on her way to launching Foss Maritime Services. At the opposite end of the Thea Foss, just beyond the end of the waterway and next to the Tacoma Dome, a shrine to the automobile has arisen. LeMay - America’s Car Museum, with four floors of cars selected from the world’s largest collections of vintage automobiles, opened its doors to the public in 2012. Within the collection, in addition to rotating exhibits and a chance to witness car restoration in progress, you’ll find a 1948 vintage Tucker one of only 48 made - as featured in Francis Ford Coppola’s 1988 film “Tucker - The Man and His Dream.” The big surprise? A 1922 Olympic 2.5-ton truck, manufactured in Tacoma at a time when some in the “City of Destiny” envisioned it as Pacific Northwest counterpart to Detroit. Flanking the Foss on the west are three other museums – the Tacoma Art Museum, the International Museum of Glass and the Washington State History Museum. Like Foss Waterway Seaport and LeMay - America’s Car Museum, all have been built during Tacoma’s recent renaissance. The Dock Street Marina borders the International Museum of Glass, and from there it is a short jaunt across the Chihuly Bridge of Glass to vibrant Pacific Avenue, with its light-rail line, beautiful UW campus, restaurants, retailers, clubs and museums. Amazingly, that’s the very same stretch I saw boarded up and abandoned just 23 years earlier. 60
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THINGS TO DO WHEN YOU GET TO THE THEA FOSS WATERWAY
1. Tie up your boat at the Waterway Seaport dock -- or park your Beaver at the seaplane float at the north end of the dock -- and wander down to Rock the Dock for a beer and standard pub fare. You can moor there for free for two hours, or overnight for $12 and up. depending on length. 2. After lunch, wander along the dock to the Foss Waterway Seaport museum and take in the region’s maritime history. Tour the collection, or take advantage of one of the activities, ranging from learning fly-tying to stand-up paddle boarding. 3. Pull up at the guest float at Johnny’s Dock Restaurant or moor at the Dock Street Marina and grab a waterfront table with a commanding view of the Foss Waterway, SR 509 Bridge, the Museum of Glass and the Foss Esplanade. 4. Visit the International Museum of Glass, with its collections, exhibits and live action as renowned artists fashion art glass in the cavernous “hot shop.” Or, if the weather’s too nice to be inside, just pop into the museum’s gift shop for some truly unique gifts. 5. Stroll the linear waterfront park known as the Foss Waterway Esplanade, enjoying the public art. When you’re tired of walking, stop at South Bar on the bottom floor of the
Thea’s Landing condo/apartment tower for refreshment. 6. Cross the Chihuly Glass Bridge to reach the vibrant Union Station Historic District, where you’ll find restaurants, galleries, art, a bookstore, UW-Tacoma and the Tacoma Link light rail line. 7. Got tickets to a Tacoma Dome concert? Catch Tacoma Link light rail and ride it free to Tacoma Dome station. Have tickets for the Pantages, the Rialto or Theatre on the Square? Ride Tacoma Link free in the other direction to the end of the line (the theater district). 8. In the market for a new yacht? NW Yachtnet is on the ground floor of Thea’s Landing – next door to International Museum of Glass – and longtime yacht brokers Bob Berglund and Kurt Kingman will be happy to broker your next deal. 9. The Washington State History Museum is an outstanding, hands-on museum for all ages, with a terrific Northwest gift shop. On the top floor is a huge model-train layout depicting historic Tacoma. 10. The Tacoma Art Museum is a charmer, emphasizing Western and Northwest art, including Native American art, glass art and early-American modernism.
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“Safe Seeing” on the Water By Tom Tripp
If you want to see things at night, and your pockets are deep enough, consider the FLIR thermal imaging monocular.
Does it sound silly to say that there is a lot to see when you’re out on the water? Probably, but “on the water” is a pretty big place. The Salish Sea covers about 6,900 square miles and that means the thing you’re trying to see might not be right next to you. And it might not be very big. And the water might not be that calm, or the skies very bright. So, you’re going to want a pair of binoculars, but there are a couple of things to consider before you take Aunt Emily’s opera glasses or Uncle Bob’s birding binocs out on the water. Waterproof Binoculars on a boat need to be waterproof! That might seem obvious, but they’re going to get splashed, and they’re going to get used in the fog and in salt spray. So you need “marine” binoculars that are sealed from weather and, preferably, filled with nitrogen so the intricate lenses don’t fog up when the temperature and humidity change quickly. They need to be “armored” too; typically coated with a thick layer of rubber so 66
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that when (not if ) they get dropped or otherwise manhandled, those same delicately constructed optics don’t get damaged. Big Enough Your marine binoculars need to have enough diameter in the front (objective) lens so that you can see well in relatively poor light conditions. This brings us to the typical description of binoculars, which includes two important numbers – the magnification and the diameter of that objective lens. A common class of marine binoculars is the 7 x 50 – providing 7x magnification and using a front lens of 50 millimeters in diameter. Most terrestrial binoculars have higher magnification, which seems counter-intuitive until you realize that high magnification on a rocking boat on the water will make the binocs virtually useless (and make you seasick). That is, unless you have stabilized binoculars. Stabilization The last 15 years has seen the pro-
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liferation of stabilized lenses in cameras and binoculars. Stabilization’s still not cheap, especially in a goodquality pair of waterproof, marine binoculars, but once you’ve tried them it’s likely you’ll re-write that wish letter to Santa. If you are mainly a day boater, not venturing too far from home waters, you can probably get by with conventional binoculars. But if you cruise, or are a dedicated sightseer, you’ll love being able to tell exactly which kind of whale you’re seeing, or what the number on that navigation buoy is, no matter how badly the boat is rocking. You’ll need batteries, too, for these binoculars, so keep a spare set aboard. Prices and Details The most important tip about boating binocs is to try them out yourself. If you wear glasses, for example, you want to be sure that the “eye relief ” – the distance from the eyepiece to your own eye is large enough to accommodate your spectacles. The most inexpensive quality marine binoculars will run between
Fujinon’s Techno-Stabi high-power image-stabilized binoculars are the way to go for the smoothest, clearest view at high power.
$150 and $200, for a pair of 7 x 50s that are armored and waterproof. Higher-quality lenses from some name brands are closer to $300. Add anywhere from $50 to $200 more if you add a built-in compass, which can help you correlate landmarks you see with what is on your
charts. The most well-known stabilized models, from Fujinon (now FujiFilm) and Nikon will set you back about $1,300. Note, however, that the stabilization in these models allows them to take advantage of much higher magnification. The Fujinon model I use is a 14 x 40 – twice the
Steiner’s basic 7 x 50 binoculars are an example of a high-quality, waterproof model.
usual magnification. If you really want to burn a hole in your pocket –and see in the dark – pick up a FLIR Ocean Scout 320 thermal handheld camera that can see a person in the water, in total darkness, nearly 600 yarda away. Just be ready to spend up to $3,000 ...
PUZZLE SOLUTION (complete puzzle on page 82)
H ARB ORS
West Marine’s Offshore 3000c 7 x 50 waterproof binoculars with compass are a good example of a higher-end, non-stabilized model.
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Destinations
Seaplane & Boating
Friday Harbor Grand, Friday Harbor, WA
Seeking a classic bed-and-breakfast experience on San Juan Island? Hope to stay at a place where you can savor the view, walk into the Friday Harbor, and even sip wine and enjoy piano music in the parlor? If so, the place you’ve been looking for has recently opened its doors and awaits your arrival. The Friday Harbor Grand, owned and operated by innkeeper Farhad Ghatan, features five spacious rooms. Originally 72
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known as the Bowman House, it was built in 1880 for John Bowman, the first judge of San Juan County and one of Friday Harbor’s founders. Over the years it has been home to many prominent locals. A full renovation of the inn resulted in a new upstairs, complete with wide plank oak floors and Persian carpets. Most rooms have kitchenettes, and several have private decks with views of the town, harbor and Mount Baker
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By Sue Frause
in the distance. The suites are spacious and well-appointed, featuring vaulted ceilings, soaking tubs, flat-screen TVs and free WiFi. The Harbor View Suite features a wrap-around deck, full kitchenette and king-size bed. The Orcas View Suite offers a covered porch, full kitchenette and a king bed, while the Sunshine Suite includes a private porch, full kitchenette and two queen beds. The Evergreen Suite has a full
kitchenette and a queen bed. The ground-floor Garden Suite features a private entrance, full kitchenette and a queen-size bed. A full breakfast featuring locally sourced, fresh ingredients is served on the veranda or in the dining room, depending on the season. And on most evenings, guests are invited to relax in the parlor while listening to classical piano music by Farhad on his 1910 Steinway. The talented pianist is sometimes joined by guest artists. Complimentary wine and hors d’oeuvres are served. The Friday Harbor Grand is centrally located, within walking distance to the Washington State Ferry, restaurants, shops, the San Juan Islands Museum of Art and The Whale Museum. Nearby dining options include The Place Restaurant & Bar for fine dining on the water; Coho Restaurant, featuring Pacific Northwest cuisine with a Mediterranean flair; and the Backdoor Kitchen, specializing in seasonal global fare and creative cocktails in a casually elegant setting. For food and libation lovers, San Juan Island features four shellfish farms, three vineyards, one brewery, seven wine-tasting rooms, and locally distilled spirits and cider from one of the state’s oldest cideries. The San Juan Island Farmers Market runs mid-April through the third week in October. It’s located at Brickworks in the heart of Friday Harbor. Plus there’s whale watching, sea kayaking and 247 days of sunshine a year. San Juan Island is sublime no matter what the season, and the Friday Harbor Grand is a wonderful base from which to explore.
Friday Harbor Grand 345 Blair Avenue Friday Harbor, WA 360.378.0442 www.fridayharborgrand.com The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine
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Black Bear Inn, Ketchikan, AK
When you drive north from downtown Ketchikan—away from the commotion of tour buses and cruiseship souvenir shoppers—the twolane Tongass Highway winds along the island’s waterfront. A few miles up the road a wooden bear atop a mailbox is the only visible marker identifying the location of the Black Bear Inn. It’s an appropriately subdued bit of signage for this peaceful, waterfront bed-and-breakfast. “Our guests come here to relax,” says owner Nichole Church. “They also come for the outdoors of course.” And while some regular visitors to Ketchikan might have a hard time believing it, fishing isn’t the only thing to do in Southeast Alaska. “Most of our guests want to fish,” Nichole says, “but not every day.” To that end, she and her husband Jim 74
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Church (a fourth-generation Alaskan) can recommend countless activities, from floatplane trips to museum visits and/or nearby nature walks. At a glance, the Black Bear Inn looks like a large home that has been converted to a bed-and-breakfast, but the Churches actually built the property with the intention of making it a B&B. As a result, the rooms and suites—all of which feature local Alaskan art—are more sensibly arranged than those found in a typical converted residence. Rooms have their own bathrooms, discrete patios or deck spaces, and in many cases, their own private entrances. During our stay we noticed how quiet our room was, no doubt a result of the thoughtful layout and heavily insulated construction. Even though we stayed in the main house, we nev-
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By Josh Colvin
er heard the other guests or, for that matter, any noise at all. Visitors seeking even more privacy can opt for one of the Black Bear’s two separate vacation rentals. Of course you don’t choose a bed -and-breakfast if you’re seeking complete solitude; you’re also hoping for at least some interaction with your hosts and fellow visitors. At the Black Bear, these conversations tend to take place in the morning around the wellstocked kitchen where guests can help themselves to pastries or cook up whatever they like, and out on the main deck or under the covered barbecue area around cocktail hour. There’s also a hot tub and a fire pit. The outdoor spaces look directly over the Tongass Narrows, a busy section of the Inside Passage where cruise ships, ferries, floatplanes and orcas
pass by regularly. Ultimately what separates the B&B experience from the one you’d have at a hotel is the hospitality of your hosts, and after eight years of as many as 22 guests at a time, Nichole and Jim haven’t lost their enthusiasm or passion. “The truth is there are many guests we really don’t want to leave. It can be hard to say goodbye.” Nichole says. And here in Ketchikan, on a vast, rugged island in the largest state in the union, it helps to have some local knowledge and guidance. “When people came to Alaska years ago, the only way they survived was with people looking out for them,” she says. “And that personifies what we do here. Guests are new friends, but also newcomers in need of some support.”
Black Bear Inn Nicole & James Church P.O. Box 9300 Ketchikan, Alaska 99901 907. 225.4343 www.blackbearinnalaska.com The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine
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The Edgewater Hotel , Seattle, WA
As Seattle prepared to host the 1962 World’s Fair, two iconic structures were built in the “Emerald City.” The first was the Space Needle; the other was The Edgewater Hotel, on the city’s Pier 67. Although it may not command the same worldwide recognition as the 605-foot Space Needle, the Edgewater is still remembered by many as “that place the Beatles fished from their hotel window.” That was in 1964, when the Fab Four came to town on their world tour. However, my stay at Seattle’s only waterfront hotel made it clear that the Edgewater offers much more than just memories of John, Paul, George and Ringo. And the 223room hotel – completely updated in 76
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2013 – doesn’t look like a relic of the 1960s. Some advice: if you stay at the Edgewater, treat yourself to a waterside room. Although you’ll find all the same amenities – and some nice views of downtown Seattle – if you book a city-side room, take advantage of the unique location of the aptly named Edgewater. Not only can you hear waves lapping and gulls yapping, but you’ll not soon forget watching the maritime traffic on Elliott Bay, or seeing the sun disappear behind the Olympic Mountains. Perhaps the only thing that can pull you away from your window is enjoying the fireplace in your room. (I started to include “soaking in the clawfoot bathtub,” but the retract-
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By Russ Young
able screen that separates it from the sleeping area allows you to take in the vista from the tub.) The rooms and common areas are decorated in Northwest-lodge-chic, for lack of a better term. They’re rustic, comfy and cozy without being kitschy; you’ll see lots of natural wood, and it’s likely you’ll appreciate the whimsy of the fuzzy brown-bear ottoman. Like real estate, hotels depend on “location, location (and) location.” And the Edgewater is particularly well located. The airport’s about 20 minutes away, cruise ships departing for Alaska are even closer, and the Victoria Clipper – a high-speed passenger ferry that connects Seattle and Victoria, BC – docks next door.
You’re a short walk from the heart of downtown Seattle, and an even quicker stroll to the Seattle Aquarium, Olympic Sculpture Park or the Pike Place Market and its famed fish-throwers, flower and produce vendors, shops and restaurants. Between downtown, the Market and the other waterfront piers, you’ll find no shortage of dining options, but you do owe it to yourself to try the hotel’s dining room, Six Seven. If you’re like me and think that restaurants with a memorable view are often a letdown when it comes to their cuisine, Executive Chef Warren Cordoba and his team are ready to dissuade you of that notion. (They convinced me.) You’ll find a creative menu with fresh local ingredients – four words to remember: lobster mac and cheese! Naturally, the seafood is outstanding – but the menu itself is unique: it has a built-in illumination, so you don’t have to get out your cellphone or pull the candle close to read it. There’s brunch on Saturdays and Sundays; breakfast and lunch Monday through Friday, and happy hour Sunday through Thursday evenings. Weather permitting, there is outdoor seating, but note that it is first-come, first-served – so plan accordingly. Did I fish out the window of my room? Nah ... but I did open it, put my feet up on the sill, and sat enchanted by the sights, sounds and smell of Elliott Bay. Like I said, treat yourself to a waterside room. You won’t regret it; you won’t forget it.
The Edgewater Hotel 2411 Alaskan Way Seattle, WA 98121 800.624.0670 206-728-7000 www.edgewaterhotel.com
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Who’s Who in the Pacific NorthwesT Connecting People, Places, Adventure and Lifestyle… Meet some of the faces and characters of the Seaplane and Boating Destinations around the Pacific Northwest. If you ever run into them along your travels be sure to stop and say hello!
Bill Giesy Occupation Managing broker, Windermere San Juan Island - Friday Harbor, WA Birthplace Ellensburg, WA Hometown Friday Harbor Favorite PNW Destination Roche Harbor, WA
Best Boating & Fishing Destination Desolation Sound, BC Favorite Eatery Backdoor Kitchen,
Occupation Owner, Duncanby Fishing Lodge, BC
Birthplace Vancouver, BC Hometown White Rock, BC Favorite PNW Destination Duncanby Lodge
Best Boating & Fishing Destination Grady White Boats at Duncanby Fishing Lodge
Favorite Eatery Jessie’s Place at
Katie McPhail Coltrain Occupation Seattle Boat Show Director, Northwest Marine Trade Association Birthplace Issaquah, WA Hometown Issaquah Favorite PNW Destination Lake Sammamish
Best Boating & Fishing Destination Columbia River Gorge Favorite Eatery Clear Water Har-
Friday Harbor
Duncanby Lodge
bor – Waupaca, WI
Best Meal Lamb chops
Best Meal Seafood hot pot
Best Meal Shrimp tacos
Favorite Read Wildfire by Nelson DeMille
Favorite Read John Grisham novels
Favorite Read Only In America by John Mirrassou
Hobbies Boating, flying, reading,
hunting and fishing
Most memorable experience on the waters of the PNW Cruising
with my wife and dog to as many harbors as possible from Olympia, WA to Port Hardy, BC. We aren’t done yet and each trip we find a few more new and wonderful places to visit. Marina people, both staff and fellow guests, are the friendliest and most accommodating on earth. Every visit and every trip is memorable. The best part is, we’ll never be done.
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Hobbies Fishing and travel Most memorable experience on the waters of the PNW:
Marrying my wife Leigh six years ago at Duncanby Lodge. Watching our kids grow up here at the Lodge, and sharing Duncanby Lodge with friends and family.
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Hobbies Boating and floating, road trips, running around Lake Union Most memorable experience on the waters of the PNW
As a kid, the highlight of my summer was being allowed to take my dad’s Century Resorter runabout out on the lake with my younger sister and friends. Actually, it still is!
Who’s Who in the Pacific NorthwesT
Chris peacock Occupation General manager,
Rosario Resort – Orcas Island, WA
Birthplace Philadelphia, PA Hometown Orcas Island Favorite PNW Destination Vancouver, BC (I go to the city to relax!)
Best Boating & Fishing Destination San Juan Islands Favorite Eatery The Mansion Res-
PHYLLIS TITUS
Tami Allen
Occupation Harbour manager,
Occupation Harbormaster, Bainbridge Island, WA
Campbell River (BC) Harbour Authority
Birthplace Vanderhoof, BC Hometown Golden, BC Favorite PNW Destination
Too hard to choose a favorite; I love all the places!
Best Boating & Fishing Destination Campbell River for
taurant at Rosario (I am there often!)
fishing; all the surrounding islands for boating
Best Meal The fries at the Cascade
Favorite Eatery Koto Japanese
Bay Grill are too good!
Restaurant, Campbell River
Favorite Read Setting the Table by Denny Meyer –- a great hospitalitytraining book
Best Meal This is a hard one; I eat
Hobbies Playing the piano -– it used to be my career, but these days running the resort seems to get in the way Most memorable experience on the waters of the PNW
After 35 years on Orcas Island, my most memorable experience just happened! Our family went out fishing in our new 27’ Robolo Sport Fisher, purchased for our fishing-charter business run by my son Jake. I’m glad he is the captain, as he is a very knowledgeable fisherman. I’m proud of his years served in the Coast Guard, and now I’m not so mad at him for skipping some of his high school classes years ago to go fishing throughout the San Juans –- we call him the “salmon whisperer.” We caught our limit of salmon and crab on a gorgeous day -- what an awesome experience for our family, and now available to anyone who would like the same experience!
Birthplace San Jose, CA Hometown Morgan Hill, CA Favorite PNW Destination Port Townsend, WA
Best Boating & Fishing Destination I’m still looking.... Favorite Eatery Harbour Public House on Bainbridge Island Best Meal The one in front of me ... Favorite Read The Curve of Time by
Wylie Blanchett
all foods and have many favorites. Although barbequing a fresh-caught salmon on cedar is pretty amazing!
Hobbies Cajun fiddling, rubboard and singing with “Whozymama;” sailing on Lille Danser, snowboarding.
Favorite Read Mystery and spy
Most memorable experience on the waters of the PNW When I
novels
Hobbies Fishing, boating, all sports
(especially hockey, being Canadian!)
Most memorable experience on the waters of the PNW
My most memorable experience was taking my nieces for their first whalewatching tour. There is nothing better than observing a child seeing a whale for the first time in the wild.
shipped my 32’ 1965 Osvald Forlund wood motorsailer SAGA from Moss Landing, CA to Port Townsend in 1994, I was out late one night messing about with my oil running lights. Members of the Makah tribe spotted me and asked that I tow their dugout canoe to Nanoose, BC to join a healing journey for young tribal members. I am so happy I said “yes.” We joined 20 other tribal canoes and, with my support and others’, the youths paddled the canoes along the historic routes. Each night our party was welcomed to a new ancestral home; I anchored in places I doubt I will ever have the opportunity to anchor again. I still cherish that trip and the paddlers of the Salish Sea.
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CROSSWORD PUZZLE
Solution on page 67
HARBORS
ACROSS:
2. The largest island in the San Juan Island chain 6. Inlet south of Horseshoe Bay, BC 8. Channel dividing west and east Thurlow Islands, Desolation Sound, BC 9. Nickname for owners of Ranger Tugs 10. Famous gardens on the Saanich Peninsula, BC 11. Queen ________________ Strait 13. A small posterior dorsal fin removed to identify hatchery fish 15. Another name for “humpie” salmon 17. A Chinook or spring salmon weighing 30 lbs or more 19. Historic fishing village near Richmond, BC 21. Large island just east of San Juan Island 23. Home base of San Juan Airlines 24. Location of Duncanby Fishing Lodge in BC 25. A national monument and wilderness area, in the Tongass National Forest, SE Alaska 26. Resort and spa on Orcas Island in the San Juan’s
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| HARBORS
www.harborsmagazine.com
DOWN:
1. Cruise line headquartered in Seattle 3. Offshore power catamaran and fishing catamaran boat builder 4. A national ship monument on display ashore in Anacortes, WA 5. Seaplane company based out of Renton, WA (south end of Lake Washington) 7. Closest island to Seattle’s waterfront 12. Harbour on Sechelt Peninsula, BC 14. Island northeast of Powell River, BC 16. City and borough on Baranof Island, AK 18. Fishing and seaplane resort and spa located on Barkley Sound, Ucluelet, BC 20. Well-known nautical restaurant in Anacortes, WA 22. Island south of Nanaimo, BC
DISCOVER YOUR INNER
EXPLORER
C30 LIMITED EDITION ◆ ◆
Fuel efficient Volvo diesel ◆ Enclosed shower ◆ Extended cockpit seating 20+ knot cruise speed ◆ Keel stepped hull ◆ Bow and stern thrusters
INTRODUCING THE
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Limited Edition available in white hull only. *West Coast LE includes diesel furnace and propane stove/oven. East coast LE includes diesel generator and air conditioning.