Headway Autumn 2015 Vol38 No1 by Headway Magazine

HAIR BEAUTY FASHION NEW ZEALAND / AUTUMN 2015 / VOL.38 NO.1

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Contents 16 editor’s note 24

prof ile

Master of Style: Jayne Wild

106 focus

26 My Favourite Things: Antoinette Goodfellow 28 Iconic Style: Jerry Hall

Hey Slick

32 Backchat With Uros Mikic

114 Under Your Skin

38 Style File: Jason Sherwood

116 The Beauty It List

86 London Calling: Mike Beauchamp

nz awards

TREND WATCH

makeup's

LET THERE BE LIGHT

A Cut Above: Essential Looks Competition

The new beauty direction that MAC describes as 'enlightenment' bathes the skin in light and connects it to brightness. Replacing the carved shadows and conscious contours of seasons past, the new skin treatment plugs into a purity that "offers a more spiritually optimistic vision of how we'll all look in the future, rather than a sci-fi view of it. We'll be gorgeous and gleaming," predicts Lucia Peroni. Executing such radiance is less pure and simple than the thought underlying it. Layering myriad weights of reflection - shine, texture, creams of powdered pearl, gloss (eye gloss in light taupe deserves to be highlighted as a must-have of the season) and veils of pale, matte shades - requires real technical prowess. "Creating light in the complexion starts with selecting the appropriate tone to brighten its undertone," explains Barber. "This could be anything from pure white through to a deep gold or pewter." The important thing is that the result is a porcelain rather than a tanned glow. The effortless way to channel the trend is a glossy lid. "There is little more beautiful than natural skin enriched with clear shine," says Barber.

NEW MOOD IF THERE'S ONE MESSAGE TO CHANNEL INTO BEAUTY FROM ALL THE EARLY 70S REFERENCES GOVERNING FASHION RIGHT NOW, IT'S FREEDOM.

42 Industry 2015 52 Generation Next: Joico Protégé Competition

"Super-nude skin makes wearing mascara feel exciting again."

s makeup artists are playing with lightness, both literally - light colour, tone, texture and touch - and metaphorically - as a mood - an easy, optimistic attitude has pervaded on the spring/summer 15 runways. Understatement is still an important thought (and skill); trying too hard, or wearing too much, has been as passe as studious perfection for a few seasons now. Yet while the catwalks might appear to riff rather resolutely on 'natural', look closer and a diversity of choices is revealed. The commonality between them all is their exploration of how to open up the face.

130 MyFaceMyBody Awards

EYE INTENSITY

What could be more classic and essentially retrospective than black liner and mascara? Yet lines and lashes now shrug off nostalgia "and pull the classic apart. They're 'it' girl, not princess-like and glamorous," says Terry Barber. The new approach to liner deconstructs standard methods to intensify the eye, replacing the flicks and kohls of old with gestural strokes and aerodynamic wings that give a distinct openness to the gaze. "A line in the socket or swept across the lid feels artistic now, in an effortless and free way," says Val Garland. Think 'out' and 'up' with dynamic details that expand the eye. As for lashes, "they are in a place of extremity - nothing or almost overdone. There is no middle ground now," states Barber. Lyne Desnoyers agrees. "The tendency to pack on mascara this season gives an intriguing shadow to the eyes and gives the face instant elevation, with nothing else needed. The juxtaposition of a couture lash against super-nude skin makes wearing mascara feel exciting again." The vital detail? No eye shadow. Contemporary black is worn at its best against bare (often glossy) lids.

"The important thing is that the result is a porcelain rather than a tanned glow."

126

127

30 trend watch

The Nineties? Yes Way 34 Hair Hits of the Season 82 American Graffiti

international Nouveau Chic

68 Swinging Sophistication 74 Souls Collection

business

84 Modern Glamour

Consultation, Colour & Communication

120 Youth Movement

90 Social Essentials

126 Makeup's New Mood

92 Times Have Changed: Have You? 102 Autumn Renewal

136 Raw: Into The Season

110

spa zone

East Meets West: Chuan Spa Pasadena

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SERIOXYL *TNS Salon Survey, New Zealand, 2014

EXCLUSIVELY BY

® HAIR BEAUTY FASHION NEW ZEALAND / AUTUMN 2015 / VOL.38 NO.1

EDITOR

Charmaine Guest charmaine@selfcaregroup.co.nz ph : +64 9 579 5188 ART DIRECTOR

Karla Farrar karla@mintideas.co.nz DESIGN

Kirralee Fisher kirralee@mintideas.co.nz EDITORIAL CONTRIBUTORS

Charmaine Guest, Kirralee Fisher, Sarah Harper, Richard Kavanagh, Liz Lamb, Larissa Macleman, Wendy Maxwell, Anne O'Brien, Colin Rebairo, Sharleen Singh, Catherine Stone. PRINTING

Bell Print EDITORAL & ADVERTISING

Contact information : PO Box 14447, Panmure, Auckland 1741 Telephone : +64 9 579 5188 Fax : +64 9 579 7921 Email : charmaine@selfcaregroup.co.nz ADVERTISING RATES SUPPLIED ON REQUEST EDITORIAL

Editorial and pictorial submissions are welcomed. All pictures, prints, manuscripts, and electronic media should be marked with the contributor’s name, contact phone number and address. No material will be returned unless requested and accompanied by a stamped, addressed envelope. No liability or responsibility can be accepted for any loss or damage. CIRCULATION

Headway is widely circulated throughout New Zealand hair, beauty, nail salons and spas. Headway subscription rates in New Zealand are $45.00 (including GST and postage) for one year. HEADWAY® INTERNATIONAL HAIR & BEAUTY FASHION NEW ZEALAND is published by Self Care Group Ltd, 1016a Great South Road, Penrose, Auckland. HEADWAY is published quarterly in March, June, September and December. It is distributed to all paid subscribers, advertisers and their assigns, and widely circulated through New Zealand professional hairdressing and beauty care salons. All statements, including product claims, are those of the person or organisation making them and do not necessarily reflect the opinions of the publisher. While every care is taken, no liability is assumed or accepted by the publishers for any omissions or errors in articles, listings and advertisements, or any losses due to any omissions or errors.© 2015 Self Care Group Limited. HEADWAY® , ‘HEADWAY INTERNATIONAL HAIR & BEAUTY FASHION NEW ZEALAND ”, and “New Zealand HAIR & BEAUTY” are trademarks of Self Care Group Ltd. All articles, illustrations and materials published herein are copyright and are not to be copied, reproduced or distributed in anyway without the express permission of the publisher. All rights reserved.

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Editor's letter It's a new season and a New Year - an exciting time in the world of hair, fashion and beauty. There's nothing like a change in season to encourage a new outlook for mind, body and soul. What better way to celebrate than to start indulging in a few pieces of winter fashion (if you missed the 70s the first time around, now's your chance) or update your makeup look with some of the gorgeous new trends and products coming through. Autumn is also the perfect time to give skincare regimes an overhaul and with new innovations launching every month, you can certainly take your pick. We've compiled some of our favourites in The Beauty It List (page 116). There's also plenty of inspiration to be had in the hair department too, thanks to the trends coming through from the spring/ summer '15 runways and the new styles gracing our favourite celebrity muses. We've got all of the above covered...and more. The start of the year has been a hive of activity, with the spotlight firmly fixed on the tremendous talent within our hairdressing industry. This issue celebrates Kiwi stylists in a big way, as we showcase the winners of the INDUSTRY 2015 Hairdressing Awards, along with the work of five very special up-and-coming young stylists, courtesy of the Joico ProtĂŠgĂŠ Competition. I was also lucky enough to help judge this year's Schwarzkopf Professional Essential Looks Competition and we feature the work of the winners this edition. I'm also excited about a new beauty event on the calendar. The MyFaceMyBody Awards is the largest global aesthetic awards in the world and has been running in the UK for the past three years. 2015 heralds the first NZ/Australian Awards, which will be held in Sydney late November. This event gives our aesthetic cosmetic clinics, spas and cosmeceutical brands a chance to shine, so check out our feature on page 130 to see whether you're eligible to enter. Hope to see you over there! Enjoy our new issue...

Charmaine For style inspiration and news, join us at facebook.com/headwaymagazine

COMING SOON ...

PRESENTS PRESENTS PRESENTS SERVILLES PRESENTS

BUSINESS SERVILLESEDUCATION SERVILLES BUSINESS EDUCATION SERVILLES BUSINESS BUSINESS EDUCATION EDUCATION

CARL KEELY CHUMBA MELBOURNE CARL KEELY CHUMBA CARL KEELY MELBOURNE CHUMBA CARL KEELY MELBOURNE CHUMBA MELBOURNE

LEARN MORE, LEARN MORE, LEARN MORE, EARN MORE LEARN MORE, EARN MORE EARN EARN MORE MORE

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HELEN OWENS TIGERLAMB BRISBANE HELEN OWENS TIGERLAMB HELEN OWENS BRISBANE TIGERLAMB HELEN OWENS

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BRISBANE TIGERLAMB BRISBANE

Led by the inspirational Led by the Led by the Paul Serville inspirational Led by the inspirational and Jackie Allum Paul Serville inspirational Paul Serville Armed with over 40 years Allum of hairdressing, business and Jackie Paul Serville and public speaking experience, Paul and Jackie are and Jackie Allum inspirational teachers and mentors. They will lead a Armed with over 40 years of hairdressing, business and Jackie Allum team of specialists Servilles’ business and public speakingfor experience, Paul andeducation Jackie are Armed with over 40 years of hairdressing, business

opportunity, which is summed up with four inspirational teachers and mentors. They willsimple lead a and public experience, Paul and Jackie are Armed withspeaking over 40 earn yearsmore”. of hairdressing, business words: more, team of“Learn specialists for Servilles’ business education inspirational teachersexperience, and mentors. They leadare a and public speaking Paul andwill Jackie opportunity, which is summed up with four simple team of specialists forand Servilles’ business education inspirational teachers mentors. They will lead a words: “Learn more, earn more”. opportunity, which for is summed with four simple team specialists Servilles’up business education WinnerofBusiness Australasian Education Winner Excellence words: “Learnwhich more, more”. opportunity, isearn summed up with four simple Performance Organisation of the Year in Marketing 2012 of the Year 2012more, earn more”. 2010, 2011 and 2012 words: “Learn Winner Business Performance Winner Business of the Year 2012 Performance Winner Business ofPerformance the Year 2012 of the Year 2012

Why Servilles Salon Business Programme? Why Servilles Salon Why Servilles Salon + Servilles’ knows what it takes to build a Business Programme? Why Servilles Salon successful salon business. We’ve done it. Business Programme? Servilles’from knows what it takes to build a + Benefit over 27 years of salon business Business Programme? successful salon business. We’ve done it. experience, + Servilles’ knows what it takes to build a + + + + + + + + + +

Benefit over 27 years of salon business Get the from latest learning business ideas successful salon business. We’ve done Servilles’ knows what itand takes to build ait. experience, from thefrom world’s leading business experts, successful salon We’ve done it. Benefit overbusiness. 27 years of salon business distilled and customised forbusiness salons ideas Get the from latest learning and experience, Benefit over 27 years of salon business from the world’s leading experts, Developed specifically forbusiness you, whether you experience, Get the latest learning and business ideas distilled and customised for salons are new to salon ownership, or you have fromthe thelatest world’s leading business experts, Get learning and business ideas been operating for 30 years Developed specifically for you, whether you distilled customised for salons from theand world’s leading business experts, are new and to salon ownership, or you have distilled customised for salons Developed specifically for you, whether you been operating for 30 years are new to salon ownership, or you haveyou Developed specifically for you, whether been operating 30 years or you have are new to salonfor ownership, been operating for 30 years

Expected outcomes for you andoutcomes your salon Expected Expected outcomes + Transformation from ‘just a job’ to a for you and your salon Expected thriving business outcomes for you and your salon Transformation fromfrom ‘just increased a job’ to a sales of + Greater profitability for you and your salon thriving business product and services + Transformation from ‘just a job’ to a + + + + + + + + + + +

Greater profitability increased Less stress, because the thriving business Transformation fromfrom ‘justbusiness a job’ toruns a sales of product and services smoothly thriving business Greater profitability from increased sales of Less stress, because the business runs Improved attraction and retention ofsales of product and servicesfrom Greater profitability increased smoothly talented staff product and services Less stress, because the business runs Improved attraction retention of The chance to enjoy and life knowing that smoothly Less stress, because the more, business runs talented staff and methodologies are in proven systems smoothly Improved attraction and retention of place to keep business running The chance tothe enjoy life more, knowing that talented staff Improved attraction and retention of proven systems and methodologies are in talented staff The chance to enjoy life more, knowing that place to keep the business running proven systems and methodologies are that in The chance to enjoy life more, knowing place keep the business running are in proventosystems and methodologies

Winner Excellence in Marketing 2012 Winner Excellence in Marketing 2012 Winner Excellence in Marketing 2012

Australasian Education Organisation of the Year Australasian Education 2010, 2011 and 2012 Organisation of the Year Australasian Education 2010, 2011 and 2012 Organisation of the Year 2010, 2011 and 2012

Next workshop dates: SYDNEY 12th April Next workshop dates: QUEENSTOWN, NZ 19th April Next workshop dates: SYDNEY 12th April Maximum 25 places available per seminar. Next workshop dates: QUEENSTOWN, NZ 19th April SYDNEY 12th April SYDNEY April Maximum places available seminar. To find2512th out more: QUEENSTOWN, NZ 19thper April QUEENSTOWN, NZcall 19thper April Contact your Wella rep, Maximum 25 places available seminar.

To find out more: To find out more: AUS 1300 889 886, NZ 0508 493 552 To find Contact yourout Wellamore: rep, call

AUS 1300 25 889places 886, NZ 0508 493 552 Maximum available per seminar. or visit www.servillesbusiness.com Contact your Wella rep, call or visit www.servillesbusiness.com AUS 1300 889Wella 886, rep, NZ 0508 Contact your call 493 552 or visit www.servillesbusiness.com AUS 1300 889 886, NZ 0508 493 552 or visit www.servillesbusiness.com

Image: Emily Warne & Peter Gibbs at Headromance, UK

hair

FOCUS

TRADITIONAL REBELS Goldwell Color Zoom's new collection celebrates harmonic disharmony; stunning colour combinations and tribal inspiration with a confident attitude. Created by 2014's three global Color Zoom winners and the Color Zoom Master Team, the palette combines contrasting shades; from warm to cool, light to dark, shiny to matte. Cuts appear rounded but hide angular elements, whilst styling shows a rawness, fitting for these urban rebels.

BEST TRESSED Why use 20 products when all you need is Professional By Fama 20 For You. With a vanilla-enriched fragrance, this multi-effect treatment provides nourishment and repair, through to protection, smoothing, volumizing, shine-enhancing, hydration...and everything in between.

SEASONAL updates

BEAUTY BALM We love Brelil Professional's Biotraitement Beauty BB Cream for hair. This spray-balm provides 10 benefits to resolve the most common issues, offering everything from hydration, through to volume, repair, frizz control, protection and reduced drying time.

BACK TO SCHOOL Learn a fresh style in 2 minutes with ELEVEN Australia's Hair School videos. The 'how to' series go through the 6 most-searched hairstyles, created after ELEVEN Directors - Joey Scandizzo and Andrew O'Toole - realised vloggers, not brands, were doing 'how-to' videos best.

THE GOOD OIL We love Parfum en Huile from KĂŠrastase's new Chronologiste collection. This gorgeous perfume oil is the last step after styling and provides intense nutrition and long-lasting sublimation of the hair fibres; a finishing touch of shine and softness.

MEN'S ROOM Schwarzkopf Professional's [3D] MEN has relaunched with sleek, black packaging. The four-product care range focuses on activating, refreshing and strengthening, while the wax, texture clay and gel are easy to use and big on results.

COLOUR'S HOLY GRAIL Colourists, fear no more of potentially damaging clients hair thanks to revolutionary Olaplex. Two world-leading PHD's in Material and Chemistry have invented a single ingredient chemistry - free of silicone and oils - that links hair's broken bonds during and after chemical services, making them stronger than ever. "This is the most revolutionary product I've seen in a long time," says Beverly Hills colourist, Tracey Cunningham. "I’ve used it on Kim Kardashian, Jennifer Lopez, Gwyneth Paltrow and every client for the past month. I’m going through a litre of it a day! I’m blown away by what I’m seeing.” Learn more at olaplex.com or contact NZ distributor, Boutique Brands.

8 9

PARIS MATCH French beauty and Casino Royale actress, Eva Green, is the new international spokesperson for L’Oréal Professionnel. Possessing a magnetic beauty with talent to match, Eva will be the face of strategic 2015 launches, including Tecni.Art's Wet Domination, coming in August.

MODEL MUSE Gorgeous Korean model, Soo Joo Park, is Redken's current muse (and the beauty gracing our front cover this issue). Soo Joo is fronting the campaign for Redken's newly renovated Extreme Lengths range, which encourages hair growth six inches past its breaking point.

BANG ON EVO She-Bang-A-Bang is perfect for all hair types and lengths needing a boost of touchable texture. This dry wax styling spray with ultra-fine mist gives workable, pliable texture with a glossy satin finish.

SMOOTH STYLING Calm unruly hair and get control of your style with La Biosthetique Thermo-O Flat. This active gel fluid offers unbeatable heat protection, while at the same time binding moisture into the hair for a smooth, glossy, frizz-free finish. Plus, it makes styling super-easy.

FOCUS

RUNWAY READY The natural, lived-in look took centre stage on the Coach and Calvin Klein S/S15 runways, with Redken Global Creative Director Guido Palau creating effortless, slightly grungy hair with a 'slept-in' texture. Using Redken Flex Move Ability 05 for texture, Guido gave both 'dos a messy centre part and let hair dry naturally, with the goal of letting the models' individual personalities shine through, rather than creating an 'army'. "There’s this sort of coolness about natural hair, and we’ll probably see a lot of it this season because it feels very modern," says Guido.

STYLE WISE Customise your styling recipes with Matrix Style Link. The collection comprises 3 sub-ranges of 4 products; Style Link Prep creates a desired foundation to base any style on, while Play offers transformation and texture. To lock in style and add volume, look to the Style Link Perfect products.

IN RECOVERY Hair needing a moisture hit will love TIGI Bed Head Urban Antidotes Recovery Mask. The formula's hydrating molecules act like sponges, drawing in moisture from their surrounds, while unique conditioning agents repair fibres internally.

GREY TO GORGEOUS From natural through to fashioninspired looks, Goldwell's Grey Service has it all. “Now I can get colour bursting with life, full of reflections with reliable grey coverage in one step”, says UK Goldwell Global Master, Lisa Whiteman. Inspired shades and innovations (such as Elumenated Naturals in both Topchic and Colorance) provide stylists with unlimited possibilities.

HOT HEADED We're protecting our hair from heat styling this autumn with Affinage Black Ice Thermal Shield. With a signature blend of silk, Green Tea, cashmere, pearl extract and rice proteins, this shielding and moisturising spray leaves hair strong and nourished, with luminous radiance.

CULT CLASSIC TURNS 20 Leading men's brand, American Crew, is celebrating its 20th anniversary this year. David Raccuglia, American Crew Founder, says that when he started his career as a barber, he had "no idea where the men's category was going but I saw a change in the dynamic of men’s hair. I wanted to build a brand that was steeped in the core values of old-school barbering and traditional men's grooming." After 20 years, the goal of creating that style is still the foundation of American Crew.

VELVET SHIELD Featuring star ingredient black cumin oil, L’Oréal Professionnel Mythic Oil Séve Thermique is a unique cream-in-oil formula that wraps hair in a protective velvet, offering heat protection up to 230° Celsius.

WIN WITH SERIOXYL L’Oréal Professionnel Serioxyl® Denser Hair claims it can produce more than 1,700 new hairs after three months use. L’Oréal are so confident about its results, they have launched a competition where the winning stylist and client receive a $1,000 Prezzy card each. Salons stocking Serioxyl can enter by taking a 'before' image of their client. The client must follow the Serioxyl programme using the prescribed products, and return after 3 months for an 'after' cut and style photo. Entries close June 30th.

20 22

TRAVEL COMPANION For the girl on-the-go, AbsoluteHeat IPS Mini Straighteners from Dateline Imports offer amazing results and performance. The Mini features ceramic-coated plates and an ergonomic shape that allows you to straighten, curl, wave and flip hair for any style you desire.

HAIR EXPO HIGHLIGHTS We're super-excited about the line-up for Hair Expo Australia's June event. Education highlights include an up-close-and-personal session with British Hairdresser of the Year, Akin Konizi, seminars with TV personality Tabatha Coffey and hair icon Errol Douglas, and a creative class with NZ's Mana Dave and Sara Allsop. The 'Famous Five' seminar - with Aussie greats Frank Apostolopoulos, Damien Rinaldo, Joey Scandizzo, Renya Xydis and Dmitri Papas - is an industry first. Learn more at hairexpoaustralia.com

LADY IN RED In celebration of Valentine’s Day, Stephen Marr honoured the 10 hottest, iconic leading ladies of avant garde love films from their favourite directors: David Lynch, Vincent Gallo and Wim Wenders. Their top 10 films began in 1957 and ended in 2004, celebrating blindfold instead of bondage, powerful women who happen to be heroes, and all-time favourite lovers of love. Nastassja Kinski from Paris Texas was there, as was Christina Ricci in Buffalo 66, Sissy Spacek from Badlands, and the classic romance of Romeo & Juliet. The live show was held at midnight - perfectly positioned on the cusp of Friday 13th and Valentine’s Day - at Rockies 247 Gallery on Auckland's K-Road.

ACCESSORISE THIS Hair accessories are big for 2015, with the runways proffering up gilded combs at Lanvin and mermaid-worthy crowns at Valentino. Our favourite look was created by Redken Global Creative Director Guido Palau for Dolce & Gabbana; a loose chignon adorned with charming 50s-style broaches, pearls and jewels.

MASK THE DIFFERENCE Give hair a post-summer pick-me-up with Boutique Brands' Pure Sacred Mask, an intense restorative hydration treatment for all hair types. With Argan Oil and Shea Butter to restore moisture, soften and strengthen, this luxurious mask also rejuvenates and restores healthy moisture balance to hair and scalp.

TO THE RESCUE Stimulating hair growth and providing strength and fortification for thinning hair, KEVIN.MURPHY THICK.AGAIN helps prevent dreaded hair loss and amps up the dense factor for a fuller, thicker head of hair.

PROFILE

JAYNE'S FAVOURITES BOOK April Fool’s Day by Bryce Courtney. CELEBRITY CRUSH Robbie Williams. RESTAURANT Any restaurant that has Bluff oysters. GUILTY PLEASURE Shoes and chocolate! OUTFIT Anything from Prada or Miu Miu. FRAGRANCE Pomegranate Noir and Grapefruit, both by Jo Malone, mixed together to clash! CHILL-OUT TIME What’s that? Doing hair of course. OVIE M The Italian Job (the original with Michael Caine). HAIRDRESSING ICON Trevor Sorbie and Guido.

MASTER OF STYLE

jayne wild

5 MINUTES WITH GHD AMBASSADOR & THREE-TIME AUSTRALIAN HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR, JAYNE WILD

he effervescent Jayne Wild from Australia's award-winning Wild Life Hair was in Auckland recently, presenting a ghd seminar at INDUSTRY 2015 and co-hosting the New Zealand Hairdressing Awards. Her passion for hair and education and obvious love of the industry is infectious. We sat down with the bubbly English-born hair guru to learn more about what makes her tick. Where do you draw inspiration from and what’s inspiring you currently? My inspiration comes from everywhere! I could literally be in a car or walking down the street and see something; a shape that just pops an idea in my mind. Strange I know. I'm currently really into the late 60s/early 70s feel in both hair and fashion - interesting but beautiful.

What’s a working week like for you? My average working week is spent in the salon. As much as I love my 'play time’ as I call it, my clients are the most important. I am lucky enough to be involved in education, both within our salon and also with ghd, so I have a great time sharing my knowledge with people. I have also formed great relationships with a few designers that I get to work with too. Who are your favourite fashion designers? I love our Toni Maticevski, so talented! And I am always obsessed by Miuccia Prada. What do you love most about working with ghd? It’s a pleasure to work with tools that do what they actually say they will do, which can be a rarity in our industry! And ghd listen to us hairdressers - our needs and wants - more than any other brand, and try to make things to help us help others. Which cities do you find most inspiring? I always love my hometown of London, and New York too, as they are both so fast and exciting, changing all the time. How would you describe your hairdressing style? It has been described as “elegant sophistication” before but I just love beautiful hair with a strong twist! What's your creative process when you start working on a collection or show? Meeting with my team. It's very important to get outside input for me, then as the ideas grow it's about lots of planning. Then hopefully on the day everything runs smoothly. Which hair looks do you love right now? Again, I am loving eras such as 60s/70s, so lots of extricated sections to give “mullet-ish” shapes. Which look are you totally over? I’m never really over any look, as a style always looks different on different people. I just like people to have looks/cuts/colours that suit them and their

“Learn as much as you can and never stop learning. Be open to change, sometimes things don’t/do happen. Put yourself forward for everything. And keep believing in you and what your heart says.” face shape, etc. What has been your most memorable session styling experience? I think it would be the first time I directed a show in New York. Really, at the end of the day, it is the same as anywhere once you are backstage, but the models were absolutely amazing. What kind of changes do you think the industry needs to make? I think we are too cheap! What other industries give 3-4 years in an apprenticeship then carry on learning throughout their careers, paying for it and only charging a minute amount in comparison to say a plumber! We also have the honour of changing our clients as people and how they feel about themselves. What are your ‘can’t live without’ products and tools? ghd heat protect spray and my ghd Aura dryer and

ghd Eclipse styler. What do you enjoy most about educating and what do you think it takes to be a good educator? I think patience and being a good listener is very important when educating others. And to share what I do with people is an honour. You've worked with a lot of New Zealand hairdressers. Do you think our style differs much from that of Australian hairdressers? I think that New Zealand hairdressers are a lot more influenced by the British hairdressers, whereas the Aussies seem to be split between the Brits and the more traditional European style of working. What do know now that you wish you’d known when you first started hairdressing? Nothing really I think. I was so naïve that I came into it with an open mind, as I already had a Saturday job in a salon. I just put my hand up to be involved in everything and that's my advice to all young

hairdressers today. What would you say are the 5 key things that have made you a successful hairdresser and/or business owner? • Hard work. • Never give up. • Never be completely satisfied with the last thing you do. ALWAYS want to better yourself. • Always believe in yourself. • Surround yourself with positive, like-minded people. You've achieved so much throughout your career. What would you say to a young hairdresser looking to follow in your footsteps? Learn as much as you can and never stop learning. Be open to change, sometimes things don’t/do happen. Put yourself forward for everything (assisting, etc). And keep believing in you and what your heart says. 27

FILM

PROFILE

Dirty Dancing!

DESIGNER

Alexander Wang. I'm really into his simplistic, minimal style - so effortlessly cool!

HAIR PRODUCT KEVIN.MURPHY FRESH.HAIR Dry Cleaning Spray is my best friend.

MY FAVOURITE

things

ANTOINETTE GOODFELLOW FROM MARILYN'S HAIRDRESSING WAS RECENTLY NAMED ORGANIC COLOUR SYSTEMS INDUSTRY NEWCOMER OF THE YEAR. THE GORGEOUS AUCKLAND HAIRDRESSER SHARES WITH US HER ALL-TIME FAVOURITES.

TRAVEL DESTINATION

Hawaii. A gorgeous beach and cocktails sound really good right about now!

ACTOR

Johnny Depp. Because, Johnny Depp!

INSPIRATIONAL HAIRDRESSERS

WEBSITE

Ahh my own? Haha! I spend enough time on it - antoinettebonbon.com.

Sara Allsop. She has just taught me so much and she knows what's up.

INDULGENCE

In terms of food, chocolate. ALL DAY.. major chocolate fan.

MUSIC

This is waay too hard to answer! Anything from Grimes to The Rolling Stones to BeyoncĂŠ. Anything with a good beat.

RESTAURANT

Orleans in Britomart. Yummy southern-style food. I haven't once had anything there I didn't like!

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PROFILE

ICONIC

style

FASHION AND ROCK MUSE, JERRY HALL, SHOWCASES HER NEW LOOK AND TALKS ABOUT BEING THE FACE OF L'ORÉAL PROFESSIONEL'S NEW IT LOOKS CAMPAIGN

f today there are only a few idols that endure at the mercy of ever-changing trends, then Jerry Hall is one of them. She continues to illuminate and entice with her unique mix of beauty, energy and humour. It's no surprise then that she chose to transform her style with L'Oréal Professionnel this season and try a completely different 'it' look. What's your relationship like with your hair? Well, that's a long story! As far back as I can remember, my hair has always been something very important to me. I have always had a close relationship with it and have always had very, very long hair since I started modelling at the age of 14. Until now, I had never dared to radically change the look of my hair. This is the first time in my life I have had a shorter style and I love it! How did you feel about this hair transformation? I feel like it was the right time for a change. It's certainly very liberating changing your hair, although I must admit, I was a little worried because I had never had my hair cut short before! It took courage to try a completely different cut. But in the end, it was worth it because I immediately felt lighter and fresher. I'm excited about it. And what did you think of your new 'it' look, your 'golden lob'?

I love it! The cut is really modern, I remember seeing a picture of an actress with a similar cut, with the hair a bit longer through the front, and thinking to myself it looked kind of cool. I don't regret at all having the courage to opt for the same cut because the result is even better than I imagined. What about your new hair colour? It's great and has a lovely richness to it. I have been very blonde in the past, but I think sometimes maybe it was a little too harsh. This new golden blonde colour is very sophisticated and works well with the lob cut and my skin tone. It's natural-looking too and my hair feels full of life. Which hair icons have inspired you? My hair icon has always been Veronica Lake, with that long hair that fell over her eye. I loved that look in the old black and white movies. I thought it was so glamorous and growing up as a young girl, I wanted my hair to look like hers. But now I have kind of matured and gone for this groovy young look. What advice would you give to those thinking about making a big change to their hair look? You know, at a certain age it is good to change your hair - it makes you look and feel younger. I would say just go for it, take the leap and try something completely new. Cut, colour, the whole deal!

THE IT LOOK Chatting with Seb Bascle, hairstylist, and Frederic Menntrier, colourist, for L'Oréal Professionnel IT LOOKS Fall/Winter 2015. What are the rules to follow for those who want to try the lob themselves? Seb: It must always be slightly inverted: a little shorter at the back with longer sections towards the front around the face. This inversion really is key to keeping the cut looking fresh and modern. If the hair length is too uniform, the cut looks too classic. The hair lengths at the front should also graze the clavicle or collarbone. Is the lob a good look for mature women? Seb: Of course, because it really brings a freshness and modernity to the look of any woman's hair. It's the perfect compromise for those who have long hair and want to try something new without going too short. It offers real styling versatility too: the lob can be worn sleek or wavy, to the side or with a centre parting, as seen on the Fall/Winter catwalks. Is there a type of woman that golden blonde works particularly well for? Frederic: Like copper shades, this sort of golden blonde can work particularly well on lighter skin tones to bring more warmth to the wearer's face. Why do you think this hair shade is a good choice for mature women? Frederic: It can be adapted to different types of skin tones. One must bear in mind that platinum blonde does not work for everyone and this is a very chic alternative. Moreover, since it is such a rich hue, it brings a lot of life to the hair which is very important for more mature women. It offers vibrance and tonality.

THE WORLD OF JERRY

THERE ARE FEW MODELS TO HAVE MADE THEIR MARK ON FASHION HISTORY LIKE JERRY HALL. HERE, WE LOOK AT HER PASSIONS AND ACHIEVEMENTS TO UNDERSTAND WHY THIS AMERICAN'S STAR SHINES SO BRIGHT

ROOMMATES LIKE NO OTHER Arriving in Paris at the start of her modelling career, Jerry had to share an apartment. Nothing exceptional about that...except that her first flatmate was the boundary-breaking performer Grace Jones. A few years later, Jerry moved in with the most famous fashion illustrator of the time, Antonio Lopez.

MOVIE STAR Jerry has always been attracted to the theatre but one of her biggest acting roles was in the Tim Burton-directed Batman with Jack Nicholson. She played the role of Alicia Hunt, the girlfriend of a gangster disfigured by the Joker.

CHILDHOOD Born in Gonzales, a small town in Texas, Jerry says she is forever attached to this region of her childhood. While she may now reside in Surrey, England, Jerry keeps her connection to Texas with her 82 acre Lake House.

BEAUTY IN THE GENES It was always likely that Jerry's daughters would inherit their mother's luminous beauty. No wonder then that her elder daughter, Elizabeth, embarked on a modelling career at a young age, while younger daughter Georgia May has followed in her mother's footsteps to become one of the most in-demand faces of the moment.

EARLY CAREER It was while sunbathing on the Cote d'Azur in France that Jerry was first spotted and she began her modelling career as a teenager. On this beach in St Tropez, it was the famous modelling agent Claude Haddad who discovered Jerry and encouraged her to move to Paris.

CHARITY WORK While she has long supported the work of Emmaus UK, Jerry also caused a charitable stir in 2012, posing nude to raise awareness of the dangers of overfishing in our waters.

PARTY HQ In the late 1970s, Jerry, like all the idols of the time, made the legendary New York club Studio 54 her second home. She was photographed numerous times on the arm of Mick Jagger and with their friend, Andy Warhol, another Studio 54 regular.

MUSICAL MUSE We can't of course not mention Jerry Hall without thinking of Mick Jagger, the rock legend with whom she has four children. Jerry inspired the lyrics to the Rolling Stones hit Miss You, while Bryan Ferry, another icon of the music world, wrote Avalon for her.

TREND WATCH

THE NINETIES? YES WAY REDKEN ARTIST AND RODNEY WAYNE CREATIVE DIRECTOR, RICHARD KAVANAGH, DISCUSSES THE EMERGENCE OF NINETIES-INSPIRED HAIR TRENDS

ver seasons past, we’ve seen a resurgence of the grunge aesthetic reminiscent of the early nineties, showing itself in fashion and subsequently in hair trends. Think of the 90s and many of us go straight to Nirvana, Kurt Cobain, Courtney Love, Nine Inch Nails and other assorted suitably grubby individuals. The hair trends that have shown themselves as a result of this aesthetic have been narrower silhouettes, lived-in texture, and longer fringes - super-cool and effortless. This season, as fashion’s influence on hair trends plays its role, we are again seeing inspiration from the nineties, but this time in a more playful way - by 32

referencing the underground rave culture of British youth. We are seeing this in clothing with vibrant neons, abstract geometric prints, short shorts, skirts over pants and mismatched tops and bottoms. When we think of the playful nature of hair and fashion in the nineties, we think of Bjork and Gwen Stefani with their tribal knots and rave-inspired looks. Today, we see modern icons like Marc Jacobs and Kelly Osbourne reinventing that feel with a slightly tougher edge, making it modern with a hint of the punk princess, the rebellious rich girl, the exiled royal. Pastel colour is still strong and again is going as far as being rainbow or even neon bright. How does that translate into haircuts? It’s in tough, rebellious multi-coloured undercuts and tank girl fringes. But that’s not every girl. The great thing about fashion in the teens (that’s the twenty teens) is that anything goes; individuality is the rule and your own

personal style should always shine through. So if you’re not that girl, you can still be right on point by referencing other icons of the era and reinventing these looks in a way that makes it new and modern. When referencing past eras, fashion’s elite always seeks ways to reinvent a look and make it modern, and often it’s about combining elements of different eras that make a look familiar, yet new. Runway trends are showing nods to the twenties, seventies and nineties and the general mood of the season is ‘playfulness’. Our muses for this season’s trends include Linda Evangelista with her short, sharp, French bob, Kate Moss in her early days looking like a festival-going waif, Bjork and Gwen Stefani with their tribal knots and brightly-coloured hair circa 1995, Nastassja Kinski’s timeless elegance in Paris Texas and everyone’s favourite, Freja Beha Erichsen with her wavy long bob and heavy bangs.

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PROFILE

BACKCHAT WITH

uros mikic

MATRIX AUSTRALIA'S NEW CREATIVE DIRECTOR TALKS HAIR TRENDS, FASHION FAVOURITES AND INSPIRATION

ros Mikic is the owner and Creative Director of award-winning Adelaide salon, Kinky Curly Straight. With over 15 years hairdressing experience in Europe, the UK and Australia, Uros has an outstanding talent for session styling at photo shoots, runway shows, and a particular flair for men's hairdressing. With a string of national and international award wins to his name, Uros just keeps it coming in proving his creative worth to the hair industry. Uros has landed 3 finalist nominations in the 2015 Australian Hair Fashion Awards, including Men's Hairdresser of the Year, and last year won Newcomer of the Year and Salon Director of the Year. In 2014, he was also nominated for Best Men's Collection for the Association of International Professional Hairdressing Press (AIPP) Awards, 34

judged by over 70 hair magazine editors worldwide, and Hair Expo Men's Hairdresser of the Year. Uros has recently been appointed as the Creative Director for Matrix Australia. He is currently working with the Matrix Design Team to deliver artistic classes and inspirational shows around Australia and internationally. Uros will be in Auckland on July 6th for Matrix's look and learn 'Pop Art Trend Collection Show' and we can't wait to see what hairdressing's current 'it' boy has in store for us. We caught up with Uros in between juggling salon clients and his education classes. What inspired you to get into hairdressing initially? My mum owns a hair salon in Slovenia and I helped her out with cleaning during school holidays to earn some pocket money. One thing led to another and I ended up going to the hair 'high school' and now I absolutely love my career and job. How would you describe your hairdressing aesthetic? Elegant and glamorous, with a bit of a kick to it. I

love introducing a bit of edginess into my styles, yet keeping them classy and elegant too. What’s inspiring you currently in your work? My last collections were inspired by my trip to New York; it’s hard not to be inspired by such an amazingly vibrant city. I am always inspired by things around me - the cities I travel to, nature, other inspirational artists, architecture, my clients – the list goes on. What has been the proudest moment of your career so far? Opening Kinky Curly Straight – my very own salon. I always dreamed of having my own salon, running the business my way and looking after our clients to the best possible standard. Being able to fulfil this dream and seeing the salon and my team doing amazingly well is up there with my proudest moments. And more recently, being appointed the Matrix Australia Creative Director is pretty awesome as well. What do you see as being the big hair trends for 2015?

“It’s about being able to share the knowledge and inspire new generations of hairdressers to better themselves and to create amazing hair.” Soft, bohemian looks reminiscent of the 70s. We are going to see women embrace soft, tousled waves and styles, a somewhat deconstructed, undone hair style, which brings with it the bohemian edge and whimsy. Which hair looks are you loving this season? I love the strong asymmetrical lines of the cuts which are inspired by the fashion, resulting in strong cuts paired with soft styling. You work a lot with men’s hair in your collections. Is men’s hair a specialty area for you? I wouldn’t say specialty, as I like to think of myself as an all-round stylist – ladies, men’s cuts, colours and styling, but yes I do like working with men’s hair. It might be my rugby union background and all my mates who always love to get the coolest new trends. I have a strong male clientele in the salon so they inspire me to push myself in creating awesome guy’s work. You’re heading to New Zealand in July for a Matrix seminar. What will you be focusing on? I will be in New Zealand to present the latest Matrix

‘Graffiti Nation’ collection, which has some pretty cool geometric cuts and dripped and lacquered colours inspired by the urban feel of New York. What do you enjoy most about working with Matrix? I love the Matrix colours; the true reds and beautiful blondes and brunettes we are able to create. And I love the new Style Link styling range. We have been playing with Style Link for the last few months getting ready for it to hit the market in May. I’m lucky to be able to work with the amazing and hard-working Australian Matrix team too. We’ve created some pretty awesome work since I’ve joined the team and this year is setting up to be a truly fabulous one. What are your must-have session styling products? This is a new one from the Matrix Style Link range, the Texture Builder. It builds texture without any residue, making it perfect for building your base style without clogging up the hair with product and residue.

What do you love most about educating? I will sound like a broken record, but it’s about being able to share the knowledge with fellow stylists and to inspire new generations of hairdressers to better themselves and to create amazing hair. Which fashion designers inspire you and how would you describe your own personal style? I’ve always liked Tommy Hilfiger and Ralph Lauren for guys. I like Jack London’s style of guys fashion and that pretty much sums me up – classic with a bit of a twist, pops of colour, funky lining and the like. Who are your hair ‘heroes’? I have a few and I’m blessed to call some of them friends and mentors. Emiliano Vitale, Tracey Hughes, Sandy Chong – all for different reasons - such as creativity, business sense/acumen, passion and commitment. And then there are the international ones like Angelo Seminara and the X-Presion boys for their technical brilliance and vision to create something unique and different. There’s probably way too many to mention them all. 35

TREND WATCH

hair hits of

THE SEASON A CHANGE OF SEASON OPENS UP A NEW WORLD OF HAIR FASHION LOOKS. HERE ARE THE 5 AUTUMN/WINTER TRENDS THAT ARE INSPIRING US RIGHT NOW

WAVY BOB

In case you somehow missed every red carpet this year, here's a quick hair recap: Everyone was rocking the tousled bob. All the cool girls, including Emma Stone, Kate Bosworth, Sienna Miller and Karlie Kloss, have chopped their locks and look amazing. PRODUCT PICKS: De Lorenzo Elements Dry Texture Spray; Organic Colour Systems Keep Curl Memory Spray; L'Oreal Professionnel Tecni.Art Wild Stylers Beach Waves.

EDGY CROPS

Not for the faint-hearted, the pixie has been given a rocker-vibe update, with leading ladies such as Kristen Stewart, Ginnifer Goodwin, Lily Collins and Scarlett Johannsson taking the pixie classic and turning it on its head. This more layered crop is perfect for nonchalant hair flips and effortless perfection on windy days. PRODUCT PICKS: ELEVEN Matte Texture Styling Paste; Professional By Fama Sculpting Modelling Gel; EVO Act Casual Moulding Paste.

BOHO WAVES

The modern romantic, the cool festival chick and the free-spirited desert girl all share the same perfectly undone look, made out of soft, flowing waves and bare beauty. Infused with the effortless sex-appeal best describing the 60s and 70s, but maintaining the aura of nonchalance. PRODUCT PICKS: Matrix Total Results Surf Waves Spray; KEVIN.MURPHY ANTI.GRAVITY Weightless Volume Spray; La Biosthetique Beach Effect Styling Spray.

THE BRAID

Messy, loose, side braids are the current favourite of celebrities such as Blake Lively, Vanessa Hudgens and Jessica Chastain. On the runways, twisted rope braids featured at Donna Karan and corn-rowed buns at Giorgio Armani. PRODUCT PICKS: Schwarzkopf Professional Osis Session Label Salt Spray; Pureology Sea-Kissed Texturiser; Fudge Membrane Gas.

THE PONYTAIL

The ponytail is big news this season. Wear it high and sleek or low and dishevelled to keep the look modern and on-trend. Think Gwyneth Paltrow, Victoria Beckham and Emma Roberts for inspiration. PRODUCT PICKS: KĂŠrastase Fix Fabulous; Davines OI Beauty Treatment Milk; Redken Shine Flash 02 Glistening Mist.

FOCUS

we love!

goldwell

GOLDWELL UNVEILS THEIR NEW GLOBAL BRAND REDESIGN

o reaffirm their relationship with stylists across the world, Goldwell has undergone a global brand redesign...and we're huge fans of the beautiful, editorial-style imagery that goes along with it. The bold new look showcases beauty with an edge – aspirational yet accessible – positioning Goldwell partner salons as covetable beauty destinations. ‘We Think Stylist’ is at the heart of Goldwell's new philosophy and attitude, embracing the stylist's passion for beautiful hair. The brand will focus on what it has done best since its beginnings in 1948 – supporting the hair stylist to grow

their business and creative artistry via holistic, service-orientated campaigns. Fuelling artistic excellence and achieving outstanding client satisfaction through cutting-edge and creative innovations is a huge motivating force for Goldwell. Shaped by stylists from across the globe and the Goldwell Global Master Team, who created the imagery and act as the star ‘voices’ of the brand, the redesign positions Goldwell as a trusted salon-only partner that not only understands the stylist’s needs but truly thinks like them. Front and centre is the message, "what matters to you, matters to us", paired with a stunning new visual campaign and identity.

SYDNEY EXHIBITION CENTRE, GLEBE ISLAND

expo Hair Expo Australia is more than just an exhibition with an expo floor jam packed withover 150 exhibitors, Main Stage and Launch Pad Stage showcasing the world’s leading artists and Australia’s very own rising talent.

education If you are looking to expand your skillset and learn from the hairdressing industry’s leaders, the Hair Expo Australia education line-up is sure to inspire. With a range of international artists from the likes of Akin Konizi, Errol Douglas MBE and Tabatha Coffey, as well as local industry legends like Renya Xydis, Joey Scandizzo, Shane Henning and Frank Apostolopoulos to name a few – gathering under one roof to share their knowledge and spark your creativity.

galas See creativity and innovation take centre stage in three spectacular Galas. Witness full-scale productions sure to ignite your passion and inspire your work. With three jaw-dropping gala events held each night, you will leave feeling amazed, motivated and inspired. Be sure to catch Sharon Blain’s 50 Year Salute on Saturday night, the GenNext Project Gala on Sunday night and the Schwarzkopf Professional Hair Expo Awards Gala on Monday night.

GET YOUR TICKETS NOW WWW.HAIREXPOAUSTRALIA.COM / #HAIREXPOAUSTRALIA For information regarding travel and accommodation contact Ozaccom+61 7 3854 1611 ozaccom@ozaccom.com.au, www.hairexpoaustralia.com/travel-accommodation 39

PROFILE

STYLE FILE Director of Global Sales for ECRU Lifestyle Beauty Brands, Jason Sherwood, talks culture, product and fashion favourites

CLOSE-UP: Jason Sherwood LIVES: New York INTERVIEWED: The Hilton, Auckland

TIME OUT BAR: Any decent Irish pub.

WARDROBE DENIM: All Saints for everyday or Jacob Cohen. SHOES: Alexander McQueen.

CLUB: The private underground clubs in New York. DRINK: Beer! Guinness in winter and VB in summer. WEEKEND HANGOUT: Miami.

SHIRTS: Paul Smith.

RESTAURANT: Nobu in Hong Kong, Cuban food in Miami, anywhere in Italy.

SUNGLASSES: Ray-Ban.

CHEAP EATS: Mexican or Thai.

SHOPPING HAUNTS: New York's Chelsea district and John Varvatos.

BINGE WATCH: Game Of Thrones and Anthony Bourdain's Parts Unknown.

DESIGNER TO WATCH: Malan Breton.

DEATH-ROW MEAL: Sunday roast with all the trimmings. Pavlova for dessert.

DAY-TO-DAY STYLE: Corporate rock 'n' roll.

POLISH HAIRDRESSER: I usually get my hair cut backstage at shows, so Tim Hartley, Clive Allwright, Carmen DePasquale or one of the Sassoon team. STYLING PRODUCT: New York Streets Paste and ECRU Sunlight Finishing Spray Max. SHAMPOO: ECRU Sea Clean. BEAUTY PRODUCT: Cures Vitamin C Therapy and I've just started using L'OCCITANE's shaving products. SIGNATURE SCENT: Creed Royal Oud. BEAUTY TREATMENT: A mani-pedi at DePasquale the Spa in New Jersey. DESCRIBE YOUR BRAND ECRU IN 10 WORDS: Fashion, easy, global, rock 'n' roll and the 'ultimate' accessory.

CULTURE FAVOURITE APPS: Any travel apps, such as Uber. Now that I'm married, Happy Couple. Also, any apps to do with time-saving...and the Super Rugby app! MUST-CHECK WEBSITES: Behind The Chair, Super Rugby, Facebook and The New York Times. INSTAGRAM STALKS: Industry peeps and my favourite musicians, like Fleetwood Mac, who are also friends of mine. MUSIC FAVOURITES: 70s punk-rock, The Clash, Fleetwood Mac, recent AC/DC and a bit of new house and electronica. I've gone back to basics and started buying vinyl again. AUTHORS/BOOKS: How We Got To Now by Steven Johnson, Bryce Courtney and any books relating to business, innovation, travel, marketing and fashion. GADGET: Anything Mac. TRAVEL DESTINATION: Italy, Sicily, Noosa Heads, South of France and Little Palm Island in Florida. ACTOR CRUSH: Drew Barrymore and Julianne Moore.

NZ AWARDS

A CUT above

DUNEDIN HAIRDRESSER JACKIE GREIG TAKES THE TOP AWARD AT NZ'S ESSENTIAL LOOKS COMPETITION 2015

he 2014 Essential Looks Collection - Style-Tec - was the inspiration for New Zealand’s fourth annual Essential Looks Competition, which was held in March at Auckland hot-spot, The Roxy. Entrants were asked to take inspiration from one of the collection's three themes; Candy Dandy, Metalixx or White Hot. Unlike previous years, the competition was based solely on the photographic submission. Judges were asked to take into account the interpretation of the entrant's chosen trend, which encompassed technical excellence, fashion styling, make-up, haircut and colour. Winning the ultimate accolade on the night was Jackie Greig, from Dunedin's Sliver Haircutters, who was awarded Essential Looks New Zealand Hairdresser of the Year. Jackie took inspiration from Metalixx, working an edgy take on the theme, along with a fabulous cut, colour and on-point styling. Hair followed the bold direction of the trend, fusing short internal layers in longer outlines for a fresh new riff on modern glamour. The two other finalists in this category - Janine Marshall Johnson from Be Ba Bo in New Plymouth and Tracey Hartley of Wellington's Shape Hairdesign - also submitted superb entries. Newcomer of the Year went to Kayla Gledhill, from Beyond The Fringe in Marlborough, for her inspired Candy Dandy look. This category is open to apprentices with less than five years experience, but Kayla took out the award at just 17 years old - no mean feat. Kayla's look encapsulated the trend perfectly; sherbet-shaded styling and a cute, long-fringed pixie cut infused with candy-flavoured colours. Kayla was competing against finalists Stephanie Jackson from Dunedin's Headquarters Hairdressing and Wellington's Katrina O'Halloran from Shape Hair Design, who both worked the Metalixx trend extremely well. New Plymouth's HQ Hair By Design took the title Salon Team of the Year for their interpretation of Candy Dandy. The three team members - Hannah Dudley, Amie McKoy and Jenna Jensen - created a beautifully sleek, sculpted bob in a head-turning rose-infused, hot pink. The HQ team were up against Oamaru's Fusion Hair Design and New Plymouth's HQ Design Space. Schwarzkopf Professional National Technical Manager, Shannon Roper, says she was thrilled with this year’s event. “I have to say congratulations to everyone who entered,” says Shannon. “The finalist work was of an extremely high calibre, which meant the judges had their work cut out for them. It was amazing to see the amount of effort and enthusiasm that went into creating these looks!”

JACKIE GREIG

HQ HAIR BY DESIGN

KAYLA GLEDHILL

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NZ AWARDS

CELEBRATING THE SPIRIT OF NEW ZEALAND HAIRDRESSING, THIS YEAR'S INDUSTRY EVENT PROVED TO THE BEST YET

ANTOINETTE GOODFELLOW

CHINNEY YEAP

MANA DAVE

MICHAEL BEEL

GRANT BETTJEMAN

JASON CHONG LI SUTHERLAND TODD

WEI JIANG

INDUSTRY 2015

ew Zealand's annual INDUSTRY event continues to go from strength to strength. The combination of creative inspiration, education, celebration and comradery amongst hairdressers from all over the country ensures this event is always something special. INDUSTRY was founded three years ago by Jock Robson and Sara Allsop, as an opportunity to provide affordable education and inspiration to home-grown stylists from all over the country. Instigating more and more collaborative opportunities for New Zealand hairdressers to raise the industry bar has seen both the INDUSTRY New Zealand Hairdressing Awards and Joico Protégé Competition become exciting creative outlets for our hairdressers, and a highlight on the calendar. Held at Auckland's Hilton Hotel on March 1st this year, the day began with the Wella Colour Couture Seminar, heralding looks to inspire attendees to get super-creative with their colour work and encourage hairdressers to showcase their skills by entering the Wella Trend Vision Awards 2015. The Trend Vision Award offers a great platform for true creativity, where up-and-coming stylists, as well as masterful colour work within the industry, are recognised. The Colour category of the Awards has now been replaced by 'Colour Vision'. New criteria for this category has been established, making this portion of the competition more challenging and the win even more rewarding! We would encourage all those passionate about colour to seriously consider entering. Next up was the Joico Protégé Competition, which this year garnered more than 90 submissions. This award celebrates the finest up-and-coming talent from around New Zealand, and pairs each of the 6 finalists with a respected industry mentor - Chinney Yeap, Mana Dave, Michael Beel, Brad Lepper, Grant Bettjeman and Bronwyn Illingworth. The finalists then have the opportunity to work under the guidance of their mentor to create a photo shoot based on their mood-board and ideas submitted for initial consideration.

FOCUS

We were incredibly impressed with the standard of work by these young hairdressers (some of whom had been in the industry for just 5 months) as they presented their models on stage and discussed their inspiration behind the look, before revealing their star shot from the photo shoot. The work was so good it was anyone's guess who would win but Elana McCarrison from Lifestyle Hair Salon in Paraparaumu took the title, with a look inspired by "lots of texture and noise". Chinney Yeap was her proud mentor. Award-winning Australian hairdresser and ghd Ambassador, Jayne Wild, joined Wild Life cutting expert David Mcculloch on stage for the next seminar. The bubbly Jayne discussed her current love for "late 60s/early 70s-style hair", mixed in with a bit of 90s grunge, as is the current trend on the runways, and created a series of looks that focused on "dishevelled, dirty curls". Some mullet inspiration was thrown in for good measure and there was also a strong focus on fringes (hot for 2015), cutting techniques, and how to achieve body and movement in longer hair. All the techniques were created using ghd's latest innovation - the 'Curve' range of tongs and wands - along with favourites such as the ghd Aura and ghd Eclipse. Australia's most awarded hairdresser and educator, Benni Tognini for Goldwell, wound up the day's education; hairdressers we spoke to afterwards enthusiastically describing him as "amazing." Considered the father of avant-garde hairdressing, Benni's one-hour seminar showcased the performance and potential of Goldwell's innovative colour collection. Featuring a group of hand-picked models wearing New Zealand designer Lela Jacobs and inspired by Goldwell’s new ‘Traditional Rebels’ campaign, the looks featured rich, vibrant and surprising colour mixes as well as bold, fresh cuts. Benni himself was a pleasure to see in action. Benni was joined onstage by Goldwell Education Director Rita Marcon, who also worked on the concept for the show, and was keen to showcase Goldwell's powerful colour options, playing with saturated colours and clashing looks, along with matching strong haircuts, to help fuel the creativity of NZ hairdressers. The much-awaited finale of the event was the INDUSTRY New Zealand Hairdressing Awards that evening. As we topped up our wine glasses and nibbled on canapes, we were treated to two catwalk shows. Michael Beel presented a line-up of Studio 54-inspired disco divas - hot hair and hot 46

styling combined to make a truly glorious runway show. This was followed by Goldwell X Vada Fringe Dwellers - 22 models exemplifying a supremely cool, early metal/splash of nineties punk feel; the hair headed up by Vada Director Guy Roberts and Senior Stylist Lauren Gunn. Both shows were testament to the professionalism, skill, creativity and general awesomeness of New Zealand hairdressing...we just keep getting better! Wild Life's Gary Latham, with his partner in crime, Jayne Wild, were the hosts for the evening, and so it finally came time to announce the INDUSTRY Awards, which was met with thunderous applause and excitement. Congratulations to the much-deserving winners... GOLDWELL NEW ZEALAND HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR Mana Dave, Blaze WELLA COLOURIST OF THE YEAR Chinney Yeap, Dharma PAUL FRANK & CO MEN'S HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR Michael Beel, Buoy Hairdressing GHD EMERGING STYLIST OF THE YEAR Wei Jiang, Buoy Hairdressing ORGANIC COLOUR SYSTEMS NEWCOMER OF THE YEAR Antoinette Goodfellow, Marilyn's JOICO CREATIVE TEAM OF THE YEAR Sutherland Todd CLYNE EDITORIAL STYLIST OF THE YEAR Jason Chong Li, Stephen Marr HITO EDUCATOR OF THE YEAR Mana Dave HALL OF FAME RECIPIENT Grant Bettjeman PHOTOGRAPHER OF THE YEAR Spid Pye for Chris King MAKEUP ARTIST OF THE YEAR Jemima Keen for Antoinette Goodfellow A fabulous day and evening was had by all, and even for the non-hairdressers amongst us, there was plenty of inspiration to be had. A big thanks to Sara and Jock for their dedication in making it all happen once again and shining a light on the amazing talent in our industry. The stunning work of both winners and finalists feature on the following pages.

GOLDWELL NEW ZEALAND HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR

MANA DAVE, BLAZE

FINALISTS (from below left to right): Lenard Johnston, Brad Lepper, Jaimee Smith & Natasha Boustridge.

WELLA COLOURIST OF THE YEAR CHINNEY YEAP, DHARMA

FINALISTS (from below left to right): Natasha Boustridge, Mana Dave & Kylie Hayes.

PAUL FRANK & CO MEN'S HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR

MICHAEL BEEL, BUOY HAIRDRESSING FINALISTS (from below right to left): Ann Marie Young, Kaleb Pritchard & Chris King.

GHD EMERGING STYLIST OF THE YEAR WEI JIANG, BUOY HAIRDRESSING

FINALISTS (from below right to left): Kiri Roberts, Michaela Powell & Te Whehenga Laird.

ORGANIC COLOUR SYSTEMS NEWCOMER OF THE YEAR

ANTOINETTE GOODFELLOW, MARILYN'S

FINALISTS (from below left to right): Tupou Maka, Tori Johns & Klarice Dodunski.

JOICO CREATIVE TEAM OF THE YEAR SUTHERLAND TODD

FINALISTS (from below right to left): Blaze, Blue Cactus, Servilles & Rodney Wayne.

CLYNE EDITORIAL STYLIST OF THE YEAR JASON CHONG LI, STEPHEN MARR

FINALISTS (from below right to left): Michael Beel, Natasha Boustridge & Janine Jones.

NZ AWARDS

GENERATION next

THE JOICO PROTÉGÉ COMPETITION INTRODUCES THE UP-AND-COMING STARS OF THE NEW ZEALAND INDUSTRY

he Joico Protégé Competition celebrates the finest up-and-coming talent within the New Zealand hairdressing industry. Of over 90 submissions received for this year's competition, 6 young finalists were chosen. Paired with one of the industry's most respected hairdressers as a mentor, the finalists had the opportunity to work under the guidance of their mentor to create a photo shoot based on the mood-board inspiration they initially submitted. The work this year was outstanding and we applaud all the finalists. Lifestyle Hair Studio's Elana McCarrison took out the top title, mentored by Chinney Yeap. Elana says she was inspired by pastels, silvers and lots of texture and noise with her look, and her must-have products on the day were the Joico Body Luxe range. Elana was actually a twice-nominated finalist, selected for another mood-board she submitted. This meant Elana also had the opportunity to work with mentor Michael Beel. But it was her voluminous, blonde bombshell of a look that won on the day.

FINALIST

Elana McCarrison, Lifestyle Hair Studio, Paraparaumu Beach MENTOR: Michael Beel IN THE INDUSTRY FOR: One year Photography: Jock Robson; Stylist: Maxine Wooldridge Makeup: Carolyn Haslett; Model: Red 11 54

JOICO PROTÉGÉ WINNER 2015

Elana McCarrison, Lifestyle Hair Studio, Paraparaumu Beach MENTOR: Chinney Yeap IN THE INDUSTRY FOR: One year What's the best thing about being a hairdresser? My favourite part about being a hairdresser is having the opportunity to push boundaries creatively and constantly learning new things, as well as being able to change the way people look and feel about themselves. Who is your favourite international designer? Stella McCartney. I love her fashion, not only because she designs for the runway but because she also designs sportswear for Adidas. She has been very successful in her career and is an inspiration to me. Which hairdresser do you aspire to be like in the future and why? It's hard to pick just one because there is so much talent and success in this industry, but I would have to choose Carl Reeves. I love his editorial work and it’s always awesome to see a Kiwi doing so well in the industry. He's definitely a big role model for me, doing hair for celebrities and running training courses to share his knowledge. Which music are you currently listening to? A real mixture but my favourite artists right now are Miley Cyrus and Kimbra. What's your favourite movie of all-time? Grease, without a doubt. I love the rock ‘n’ roll dancing, the 60s style and the fact that it’s a musical keeps you entertained the whole way through. How would you describe your own style? I get most of my style inspiration from the people that I follow on Instagram. I try to follow as many fashion designers as I can to keep on-trend and to see what is coming up next. Photography: Jock Robson Stylist: Maxine Wooldridge Makeup: Carolyn Haslett Model: Unique

FINALIST

Gabrielle Houghton, Servilles Newmarket, Auckland MENTOR: Mana Dave IN THE INDUSTRY FOR: One year

Irihia Bourke, Morph Hair, Hamilton MENTOR: Brad Lepper IN THE INDUSTRY FOR: 4 months

What's the best thing about being a hairdresser? The people I’ve met. Who is your favourite international designer? I always love what The Row is doing. Which hairdresser do you aspire to be like in the future and why? Guido Palau, not only for his work, but also for the lasting relationships he has maintained in the industry, such as with Alexander McQueen and David Sims, which to me shows he is a nice guy. Which music are you currently listening to? Nelly, in prep for his concert next week. What is your favourite movie of all-time? Right now, the documentary Jiro Dreams of Sushi. I love the perfectionism and dedication Jiro shows to his craft. How would describe your own style? Black, white, grey, gender-neutral and a little utilitarian.

What is the best part about being a hairdresser? It would definitely be the people and the creative atmosphere I work in. Who is your favourite international designer? Jean-Paul Gaultier Which hairdresser do you aspire to be like in the future and why? Eugene Souleiman for his absolute genius, high-fashion aesthetic and his humble and sharing approach to this industry. Which music are you currently listening to? I listen to a lot of hip hop and rap. Chris Brown, Drake and J Cole are just a few names that fall into this category. It depends on my mood at the time. I’m all ears for any music besides country! What is your favourite movie of all-time? Finding Nemo. Absolute determination and never giving up. How would you describe your own style? My style definitely changes with my mood. I am influenced by R&B and hip hop but I also like to dress to the nines for events. Laid-back but with a touch of class!

Photography: Jock Robson; Stylist: Maxine Wooldridge Makeup: Gee Pikinga; Model: Unique

Photography: Jock Robson; Stylist: Maxine Wooldridge Makeup: Gee Pikinga; Model: Red 11

FINALIST

Jenny Eastwood, Morph Hair, Hamilton MENTOR: Bronwyn Illingworth IN THE INDUSTRY FOR: 2 and a half years

Rebecca Sher, Servilles Mission Bay. Studying at Servilles Academy MENTOR: Grant Bettjeman IN THE INDUSTRY FOR: 5 months

What's the best thing about being a hairdresser? I love getting to have complete creative freedom and just "play", whether it's on a person or mannequin. Having the chance to explore new looks and ideas with no restrictions is exciting and inspiring. Who is your favourite international designer? Givenchy! I love that the work has an edgy, alternative feel throughout all collections. They push the boundaries as a high-fashion brand and create dark but beautiful work. Which hairdresser do you aspire to be like in the future and why? When I first started in the industry, I watched a documentary about Vidal Sassoon and it totally resonated with me. It inspired me to try to "see" hair in unique ways. Now, it's become more of a combination of different stylists who inspire me for different reasons and in different ways. For example: Guido Palau's breakthrough work and success as a session stylist; Mana Dave's incredible eye for colour and his work in education; and Robert Lobetta's eccentric style and fearless innovation. These are all skills and attributes that I aspire to and work towards building throughout my career. Which music are you currently listening to? The warmer weather draws me towards an eclectic mix of rock music and rap. My current go-to's are Kanye West, Kid Cudi, Angel Haze, Schoolboy Q, Kings of Leon, Guns N' Roses and Led Zeppelin. What is your favourite movie of all-time? Pulp Fiction. Every time I watch it I notice another small detail and each time it seems funnier and funnier. The storyline and nonlinear narrative is absolutely genius and the film characters remain to this day as timeless fashion icons. How would you describe your own style? It tends to change depending on my mood and the occasion, but generally I keep it clean, tidy and feminine, with a hint of androgyny.

What is the best part about being a hairdresser? I love the creative opportunity; the way you can draw inspiration from absolutely anywhere and tell your own story. The fact that itÂ involvesÂ working with people from all walks of life, getting to know them and help them feel amazing is also a massive bonus. Who is your favourite international designer? Of all different fields of design I would say that interior design is my favourite, as the environment you place yourself in very much influences how you see and feel about yourself and the world. The person that brings this concept to life the most for me is Philippe Starck. He's truly an inspiration for people to look at something that may have been done exactly the same way forever and be able to see it differently. Just because it has been done before doesn't mean you can't do it better or more creatively. Just like a hair style. Which hairdresser do you aspire to be like in the future? Before I started studying I couldn't have answered this question but after meeting Paul Serville, hearing his story and seeing his work, he has become someone that I really look up to. He showed our class that one of the key aspects to doing well is to always be open to learning new things; you are never a complete version of yourself and neither is your work. He opened my eyes to the fact that the world is your playground, to draw inspiration from and to work your way up. Which music are you currently listening to? In my 'Favourites' playlist at the moment I have Ed Sheeran, Marlon Roudette, and The Hunger Games Mockingjay soundtrack. What is your favourite movie of all-time? Blood Diamond, as it has Leonardo DiCaprio in it (of course) but also because of the message it delivers regarding the origins of products we purchase and how we might not know the true story behind them. How would describe your own style? I like to be classy, but not generic, so I'd like to say I have a bit of an edge.

Photography: Jock Robson; Stylist: Maxine Wooldridge Makeup: Gee Pikinga; Model: Clyne

Photographer: Jock Robson; Stylist: Maxine Wooldridge Makeup: Carolyn Haslett; Model: Red 11 57

NEW PRODUCTS

2 3

3 OF THE BEST… Strengthen hair fibres and regenerate the scalp with Kérastase Chronologiste Shampoo. This luxury cleanser contains Abyssine sourced from the deepest sea volcanic rifts, leaving hair feeling incredibly soft, supple and shiny. KEVIN.MURPHY STIMULATE-ME.WASH features Camphor Crystals to aid scalp circulation and restore natural shine to hair. The addition of Bergamot Mint and black pepper work as stimulating ingredients for cellular strength. Magnify depth and richness for intense, glossy brunettes with TIGI Catwalk Fashionista Brunette Shampoo. Blended with horse chestnut extract and fuelled by warm toners, this colour-enhancing cleanser offers impeccable shine.

It's Oil Good

PRODUCT

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Perfecting Lotion offers frizz control, humidity resistance, long-lasting curls and definition for up to three days

NED Beard Oil is a superior product designed to condition and nourish beard and skin, as well as smell great, with a subtle scent of lavender. It's designed for those that have a beard itch, doubles as a subtle man cologne and triples as a shaving agent when grooming.

A Curl's Best Friend Define, enhance and show off your natural curls with KMS California CURLUP's two new products. Perfecting Lotion offers frizz control, humidity resistance, long-lasting curls and definition for up to three days, while Leave-In Conditioner is the perfect foundation for creating and maintaining soft, touchable curls and waves.

Age Less Schwarzkopf Professional Igora Royal Absolutes Age Blend addresses the changing needs of clients' hair as they mature. Featuring 10 beautiful colours, the palette offers shades that flatter paler skin tones and keep hair looking more natural. The addition of a Pro-Age complex and collagen ensures powerful conditioning and protection from thinning and brittleness.

White Out Affinage Arctic Blonding Crème is rich in Argan and Acai Oil, providing antioxidant and anti-ageing protection for hair and skin. Ideal for on-scalp application and lightening techniques, foils, highlights, balayage or freehand application, the creme also aids in preventing moisture loss and supports controlled lightening to maintain strength and porosity.

CREATIVE EDUCATION SAM OVERTON, TIGI CREATIVE DIRECTOR With an expansive career spanning 15 years, Sam Overton is an Award Winning Hairdresser and Session Stylist. His career encompasses educating stylists, directing shows, working on runways and editorial shoots.

Sam Overton GRADUATION SKILLS - LOOK N LEARN

A specific session to master the technique of graduation. Graduation is one of the most difficult skills to master. This session focuses on the methodology, terminology and techniques of graduation. Updating ideas to meet new trends, you’ll be armed with inspiration to improve your daily salon work. Suited to intermediate, confident hairdressers wanting to specifically progress their precision cutting techniques.

SESSION HAIR - LOOK N LEARN

This session will give hairdressers first-hand knowledge of latest trends for session work. Using styles and finishing ideas, combined with detailed product usage, hairdressers are able to achieve quick and effective dressed looks. You will learn to be more confident in adapting catwalk looks for your salon work. Suited to technically and creatively advanced hairdressers. One class $75 ex gst Both classes $135 ex gst AUCKLAND

Monday 4 May & Tuesday 5 May, 2015 10am - 12.30pm Graduation Skills Look’N Learn 1:30pm - 4pm Session Hair Look’N Learn

TAURANGA

Thursday 7 May, 2015 10am - 12.30pm Graduation Skills Look’N Learn 1:30pm - 4pm Session Hair Look’N Learn

WELLINGTON Friday 8 May, 2015

10am - 12.30pm Graduation Skills Look’N Learn 1:30pm - 4pm Session Hair Look’N Learn

TO BOOK: Contact Shelley Rothville - shelley.rothville@dateline.co.nz | 0800 169 600

NEW PRODUCTS

12 3 3 OF THE BESTâ&#x20AC;Ś Transform your style in seconds with De Lorenzo Elements Quicksand. This matte styling powder provides instant volume, texture and root lift that defies gravity. Perfect for adding oomph to fine or thinning hair. ELEVEN Give Me Hold Strong Hairspray is the finishing product of choice for structured and voluminous looks. Modelled off the much-loved Flexible Hairspray, the formula is flake-free, easy to brush out, yet locks hair firmly in shape. For feather-light volume with a touchable finish, prep locks with Matrix Style Link Volume Builder Mousse. This light bodifier was used to create award-season styles for Chloe Grace Moritz, Adrien Brody and Rosamund Pike.

Beard Love Tame that unruly but oh so hot beard with NED Beard Wax from Beauty Products Direct. With a low to medium hold and a scent of vanilla, the pliable texture melts quickly and effortlessly into said beard. Ingredients such as tea tree, sweet almond oil and olive fruit oil also give those bristles amazing lustre.

PRODUCT Cocktail Hour

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Fudge Back-Bar Colour Cocktails allow you to customise colour treatments with intensive conditioning shots. With unique multi-blend shade technology that maximises shine and brings colour to life, select and mix any colours from the collection to create and enhance desired tones.

Growth Spurt

Tea tree, sweet almond oil and olive fruit oil also give those bristles amazing lustre

Redken's go-to range for damaged hair introduces two new additions. Extreme Length Primer activates lengthening from root to tip and promotes hair growth, while Extreme Lengths Sealer protects damaged hair lengths at the tips, safeguarding from further damage. Both products encourage hair growth six inches past its breaking point.

For The Guys Goldwell's carefully curated men's line, Dualsenses Men, features three simple yet effective products. Thickening Shampoo offers instant fullness and strength, while those looking to rebalance a dry scalp will love Anti-Dandruff Shampoo. For everyday, Hair & Body Shampoo is the ideal companion, providing users with revitalised, hydrated hair and a freshly-scented body to boot.

C U L T U R E

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labiosthetique.co.nz 0800 522 467

T H E

PROFESSIONAL COLOUR • HAIRCARE • SKINCARE • MAKE UP

NEW PRODUCTS

1 2 3 3 OF THE BEST… Goldwell Dualsenses Refining Silver Shampoo contains SilverChromaComplex with lavender, to neutralise unwanted yellow tones and provide shine, making this the perfect ‘at home’ product for maintaining beautiful grey and white hair. Formulated with maximum red pigmented colour-depositing power and fadedefying Multi-Spectrum Defense Complex™, Joico Color Infuse Red Shampoo repairs and protects, whilst refreshing cherry-red and rich copper tones. Pureology Perfect 4 Platinum Blonde Enhancer guarantees longer, truer blonde shades. Anti-brass technology and the violet pigmented formula cools brassy undertones, while a caring cream formula deeply conditions locks.

Brighten Up Juuce Love Conditioning Colour Treatments restore colour intensity and shine in between salon visits. Refreshing and reviving brightness and tone whilst nourishing, the three-minute treatment comes in shades of Caramel, Copper and Black. Gloves recommended when applying!

PRODUCT

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Premium Results Redken introduce Chromatics Ultra-Rich, providing monochromatic hues with luminous shine and uniform results from root to tip. The formula incorporates Redken's Oil Delivery System technology – a breakthrough zero-ammonia hair colour system that results in hair strands becoming twice as fortified and infused with beautifully rich colour.

100% bleach-proof, incredibly durable and available in four designs, the aprons were modelled on the idea of 'the little black dress'

Aprons With Attitude

4APRON Time To Shine

SHADES

Accelerate the blow-dry process with Affinage Black Ice Quick Dry Serum. This lightweight oil instantly absorbs into hair, delivering moisture whilst smoothing and repairing. Hair is left with nourished, silky and glossy, with a luxurious scent of wild blackberry.

Add a touch of fun to your workday with Glide Hair Tools' cute new Apron selection. 100% bleach-proof, incredibly durable and available in four designs - New York, Paris, Soho and Vegas - the aprons were modelled on the idea of 'the little black dress' and there's an option to suit everyone. 1.80

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E VE RYTH IN G H A IR , W ITH A D IF F E R E N C E

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HEADWAY PROMOTION

Smooth

OPERATORS IF YOU’RE LOOKING TO OFFER YOUR CLIENTS THE GOLD CLASS OF KERATIN SERVICES AND TAKE YOUR SALON BUSINESS - AND PROFITS - TO THE NEXT LEVEL, LOOK NO FURTHER THAN FIRST MILLENNIUM KERATIN

BEFORE

ew salons in New Zealand are as busy as First Millennium Keratin (FMK) Hair Straightening Salon in Auckland’s Onehunga. Business is booming for hairdresser and owner, Elnaz Jahanrakshan, and it’s all thanks to the unparalleled keratin treatments they offer. First Millennium Hair Design was founded in 2005 and established itself as a successful hairdressing salon. The FMK concept evolved when founder Elnaz heard about keratin and decided to test it on her own hair. Elnaz experimented with different products, techniques and tried everything on the market, before picking the one she felt worked best. Having lived with frizzy, curly hair all her life and then transforming it into silky-smooth, straight, healthy-looking hair was a dream come true. Knowing other women would love this same opportunity, Elnaz began to think about the commercial applications for keratin and researched the market – how to source and create the right products, the best application method, after-treatment care and most importantly, the price points and promotional tools that would best work in the local market. Based on this knowledge, First Millennium Hair Design became First Millennium Keratin Salon, launched their own brand of keratin treatments in May 2011, and have since become the busiest keratin salon in New Zealand, with even competitors visiting FMK to learn from the best. Clients travel from all over the North and South Island to have Elnaz and her expert team work their magic, while hairdressers from other salons recommend FMK as the premium choice for their clients to undergo a keratin treatment. Now, Elnaz has decided to offer other salons the same amazing opportunity to strengthen their business and hugely increase their profits, by using the exclusive range of FMK products themselves. The product offering includes First Millennium

AFTER

Keratin Straightening Irons, Clarifying Shampoo, Keratin Treatment – two strengths – After-Care Shampoo, Conditioner, Setting Spray, Instant Gold Serum and Argan Oil. The FMK team will teach you how you can use the FMK system to develop your own profitable keratin business, providing comprehensive training and practical ongoing support. Elnaz says that salons will be “amazed” by the performance of FMK Keratin, which gives clients the long-lasting, fabulously sleek locks they desire, along with hair that looks and feels healthy. Elnaz is adamant that once a client has tried First Millennium Keratin, they’ll never look back, and for those salons using the FMK system, business will never be better. The level of demand for the FMK treatments in-salon, plus higher levels of profitability, has meant that for Elnaz, her entire business is now based on keratin treatments, with no time left for traditional hairdressing. That is why, early last year, Elnaz engaged the services of Franchize Consultants (NZ) Ltd to assess and advise on the development of a franchise system based on the FMK business model. Their findings and recommendations have resulted in FMK now offering the opportunity to join the world’s first keratin salon franchise system. If you’re interested in learning more about this amazing range of keratin products and offering your clients a straightening treatment second-to-none, contact Elnaz and the team today...

“Once a client has tried First Millennium Keratin, they’ll never look back, and for those salons using the FMK system, business will never be better.”

105 Trafalgar Street, Onehunga, Auckland For sales or enquiries phone: 09 636 2227 021 573 669 Email: elnaz@fmk.co.nz Visit us at www.fmk.co.nz

INTERNATIONAL

NOUVEAU CHIC Hair: Caterina Di Biase and team for Heading Out Hair and Beauty, Australia Photography: Andrew O'Toole Makeup: Kylie O'Toole Stylist: Elaine Marshall Sponsored by: L'OrĂŠal Professional and Showpony Professional

INSPIRATION Caterina Di Biase's 'Nouveau Chic' exudes the power of female elegance and sex appeal. Inspired by two historic style icons - Grace Kelly and Brigitte Bardot the merging of these powerful women has created a striking collection of reinvented classics. The collection recognises the regal elegance and classic styling of Kelly, whilst underpinning it throughout with Bardot's sex appeal. From sleek, pure-blonde, braided crowns showcasing polished glamour and detail, to voluminous untamed tresses, each look draws on elements and statement looks from the influences behind the collection with a balance that demands attention.

INTERNATIONAL

SWINGING SOPHISTICATION Hair Stylist: Scott Sloan @ Sloans, NSW, Australia Creative Colourist: Jordan Hone @ Sloans Photography: Jack Eames Makeup: Maddie Austin Fashion Stylist: Clare Frith 70

INSPIRATION The feeling of this award-winning collection offers a tangible nod to London fashion and popular culture. The spirit of these looks is infused with a cool retrospective of Chelseaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Kings Road, a cultural landmark once synonymous with mod style and swinging sophistication. Precision cutting with maximum wearability is key, with 60s-esque geometric angles providing a strong frame to the face. The look is sharp, defined and impeccably finished. Femininity, however, prevails via the softening of texture and use of a natural colour palette. High shine also plays a key role, inducing a sense of luxury and opulence into the overall look, cementing an inspirational stimulus that sits firmly within the sophisticated chapters of the era.

INTERNATIONAL

s l u o S n o i t c e Coll Hair: Angelo Seminara Photography: Andrew O'Toole Makeup: Lynsey Alexander

INSPIRATION Hair legend Angelo Seminaraâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s latest collection captures the soul of a woman in all her guises. Think exotic flowers and fulsome fragrance, sparkling diamonds and luminescent pearls, resolute shapes and romantic sweeps. Each image is influenced by decisive colours or swirls of iridescent hues. "These are looks which transcend femininity to reflect the unfathomable depth of a womanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s soul," says Seminara.

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TREND WATCH

AMERICAN

graffiti

MATRIX INTRODUCE AN INSPIRED NEW COLLECTION, CREATED BY THEIR NEWLY-FORMED INTERNATIONAL ARTIST COLLECTIVE

t has always been part of Matrix Education's core values to bring stylists together as a community to learn, collaborate and create. This allows peer-to-peer learning and mentoring to happen at an organic level, enabling the collective group to grow as a whole. Ultimately, the aim is to have this community of stylists walk away with the resources, tools and inspiration needed to become better at their craft. As a natural progression, Matrix wanted to formalize the process by creating a platform that builds on this core value to strengthen their global artistic network. From this, the Matrix Artist Collective was born. This Collective brings together a mix of

award-winning artists and up-and-coming stylists from around the world to collaborate on artistic projects. A lively hub of activity, the Collective encourages interactive collaboration and gives stylists the opportunity to showcase their work, learn from each other and engage in the creation of the latest fashion-forward looks. The Matrix Artist Collective will be bi-annually refuelled with new artists to facilitate their mentorship and collaborate. Graffiti Nation is the first collection developed by the newly-formed Artist Collective, focusing on the rich fluidity and dimension of hair. The muse for this trend was American Graffiti - an art form which started in the US, grew strong roots, then spread

throughout the world. The Collective team gathered in New York to help open their creative minds, where they spoke to experts and went on a tour to really deconstruct the elements that make up 'American Graffiti'. With a focus on graphic cuts, 3D shading and structured fluidity, the team were inspired by everything from graffiti's dripping techniques, through to the contrasting elements of smooth paint on rough brick, spray paint placement and bubble-style letters. The looks encapsulate an ongoing, free-flowing form of expression; bringing graffiti to beautiful life, elevating the texture and celebrating hair as canvas in all its shapes and styles.

OIL WONDERS ON TRIAL Inspired by ancient beauty rituals of Egypt, India and the Amazon, the new Matrix Oil Wonders range is formulated to strengthen, tame and enhance shine. The range comprises eight products - shampoo, conditioner, two styling products, three scented treatment oils and a professional product for stylists. My hair was definitely in need of some nourishment and shine, especially after a summer of sun, sea salt and chlorine, so these products were a welcome treat! Both the shampoo and conditioner are infused with Moroccan Argan Oil to provide softness and shine, while promoting a healthy scalp and restoring manageability. I loved using this delicious little pair. The essential styling products - Flash Blow Dry Oil and Shaping Oil Cream - are touted as creating unstoppable glamour. The Blow Dry Oil really did make my hair feel silky-soft and look much more manageable than usual. Blow-drying my uncontrollable waves was easier and there was no dreaded frizz factor. The three scented oil treatments are the basis for the range, which cater for 84

all hair types - Indian Amla Strengthening Oil, Amazonian Murumuru Controlling Oil and Egyptian Hibiscus Colour Caring Oil. The Murumuru Controlling Oil was my absolute favourite as it whipped my rebellious locks into shape quick-smart! The professional product in the range for stylists - Sharp Cut Oil - gives lightweight conditioning during cutting to nourish fibres, while providing great slip for a sharp cut. Best of all, the products can be layered or cocktailed together to maximize softness and radiance and I had a lot of fun with this, coming up with my own special combination that worked beautifully on my hair type. A big thumbs-up on this range from me! Tried & Tested by Kirralee Fisher

TREND WATCH

MODERN

glamour

SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL'S LATEST ESSENTIAL LOOKS COLLECTION CELEBRATES LUXURY REINVENTED

compelling and versatile trend, Schwarzkopf Professional's new Essential Looks collection Modern Glamour - is a contemporary take on a story that’s existed since Hollywood’s golden age. The Essential Looks Creative Team distilled this common thread into three distinct trends: Metal Chic, Boho Curl and Undone Glamour. “Metal Chic is a bold take on the glamour trend - strong, fluid, tactile and all about contrast. Boho Curl is a rallying cry for a new kind of fierce Bohemia, independent women making a style statement of intuitive power. Undone Glamour on the other hand, is a free-spirited, Bardot-inspired, just-got-out-of-bed look focusing on contemporary texture and movement for a new generation,” says Steve Hogan, Essential Looks Creative Director.

METAL CHIC Luxe fabrics and sophisticated shades of burnished silver, gold, pewter and rose add a power punch to this already bold look. It reflects a tactile mix of textures and finishes including mesh, faux fur and shearling trim. Cuts are defined by crafted rounded fringes, with muted metallic tones offering the perfect base for dramatic, shiny navy and rich chocolate accents. The 'Shadow Light' technique used creates contrasting shimmer and sheen finishes, adding a real depth of interest through graphic panels of colour. 86

BOHO CURL

UNDONE GLAMOUR

In a rich palette of black and fire engine-red, this look pays homage to rebellious 1970s rock chic through voluminous layers of textured fabrics, sexy shirt-dresses and emerald green velvet trouser suits. Handcrafted embroidery and appliquĂŠ detailing also dominate, adding a soft hippy vibe. Hair is a voluminous feast of large soft curls in stacked silhouettes, with rounded shapes and gentle graduation complemented by a 'Dappling Colour' technique. Brown and gold tonal groups are used to create a natural-looking dappled end result.

Whether tailored, embellished, feathered, fur-lined or textured, this trend embodies effortlessness. High collars and zips, luxurious textures and lots of supple leather add to the nonchalant seduction. Cuts take a laidback approach, with contrasting lengths and disheveled textures. The 'Kiss Colour' technique can flex between subtle or daring in a myriad of sun-kissed shades, whether itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s pale blonde, soft amber or warm caramel.

PROFILE

LONDON

calling

MANAGING DIRECTOR OF BOUTIQUE BRANDS, MIKE BEAUCHAMP, TALKS ABOUT HIS EXCITING NEW ROLE WITH DAVINES IN THE UK AND WHAT WE CAN EXPECT WHEN HE GETS BACK 88

e hear you’re taking a year’s sabbatical from Boutique Brands and Black Sheep Brands and are now in London, working for Davines. What are you doing there? As with all the international brands we represent in New Zealand, I have enjoyed a rather special relationship with the Davines brand and owners. Davines has been the cornerstone around which we built Boutique Brands, as we share similar philosophies. I’ve been a big fan since first laying eyes on the products one sunny day in Taranaki. I think Davines is the most beautifully-crafted and presented professional hair care brand in the world. It has heart and soul. I love that. My role with Davines UK is to robustly develop the business model, involving a direct sales team and distribution partners, in keeping with the exponential growth of Davines around the world. Why did you decide to take on this project? For an old, grey-haired, naturalised, and very proud Kiwi, this is a wonderful international business opportunity and personal challenge to work with a beautiful brand in an incredible city and country with a population 15 times the size of ours. I love the size and familial nature of our New Zealand hairdressing community, and this opportunity offers a contrast of scale and size. What most excites you about Davines as a brand? First up, while it is a multinational brand in 85 countries, it is privately owned. I appreciate the direct relationship with the executive team and owners. Now is the time of independent international brands and Davines epitomises this trend. Secondly, I love the intimate and personal nature of Davines, focusing on producing a lifestyle brand in sync with our environment in an honest, authentic and unique way. Thirdly, I love the fact that Davines is creatively brave, as exemplified by the hand-wrapped packaging of styling range ‘More Inside’. There is more too! Won’t Boutique Brands/Black Sheep Brands/ Sasi Brands miss you? Who is looking after things while you’re away? Ha! Miss me? I have asked the team not to pop the champagne corks till I am out of earshot. Seriously, I am very proud of what we have achieved as a true blue Kiwi company in our eight years. In that time we have been able to build a culture and management team who have for some time now effectively run the business without my day-to-day input. I will continue to remain involved in the strategic direction of the company as owner and director. This is my baby and I am very passionate about it. We have a great management team of Becky Roberts, Ryland Wood and Hamish Rose, supported by a fantastic team who will look after our gorgeous clients while I am away.

Happiness is a simple choice

We are constantly focusing on innovation & believe in the simple not the complex…

Do you think what you’re doing in London will give you relationships and ideas to bring back to New Zealand and Australia next year? I truly expect so, after having some real exposure to the wider international market and particularly trends, which is so important in strategic planning. We need to constantly look ahead and see the future and spending time in London will afford me that. I am also keenly interested in all those gems of ideas one finds in salons that help drive salon business, and the idea is to bring those home and share them. Being able to spend time with Angelo Seminara, Davines Artistic Director and three-time British Hairdresser of The Year - a softly spoken yet immensely creative and inspirational voice for Davines globally, and indeed the hairdressing community worldwide - is another treat. What have your first impressions of the hairdressing scene (or rather, behindthe-scenes) in London been? And London itself? Immediately, it is the sheer number of people. Some 15 million people; 10,000 London salons; a salon with 36 colour bays on one level and 36 styling bays on another - over 100 staff; highly curated and bespoke salons catering for the A-listers and celebrities and so much more. I sense a greater attention to salon brand positioning as well. As for London itself, where do I start? Walking to the bus and tube in the dark to get to and from the office in Covent Garden is a far cry from my usual two-song car ride to my Christchurch office. The cosmopolitan culture of the city is delightful. Space, or the lack of it, also takes adjustment. The Davines UK team work in a typically quaint 200-year-old building alongside the beautiful Ena Salon and Allilon Education Company - describing it as cosy is putting it mildly! We understand Davines Essentials is being relaunched here this month and that Davines are coming over for it. Essentials is “Davines in a bottle”. It epitomises what Davines is as a company. Again, leading our industry in social responsibility, Essentials celebrates biodiversity and the growing 'Slow Food' movement. This has resonated with hairdressers in its launch in Europe and the US. Davines Italy will be here with us for the launch in a very special location, and I am hopeful of getting back for it.

The Salonezy point of difference Simple, easy-to-use, yet unique and sustainable Instant, stress-free, personal support An experience that supports positivity in your business and life “I am thoroughly enjoying this user-friendly software. Salonezy is very versatile in its functionality. I can safely say the product is great and the people are awesome, delivering very prompt support if needed.” Angela King Salon One, The Cove, Tauranga

“Salonezy is an integral part of our day- to-day function and is essential for the future growth of Pure Skin Therapy.” Gay Kennedy Pure Skin Therapy, Wanaka

work ezy. live happy Salonezy is a well-established company providing software solutions to hair salons, beauty salons and day spas for over 19 years. Now also used by premium fashion retailers and wellbeing centres. To find out more about us, please call 0800 SALONEZY (0800 725 663) www.salonezy.com

BUSINESS

CONSULTATION, COLOUR & COMMUNICATION

WENDY MAXWELL EMPHASISES THE IMPORTANCE OF THE THREE 'C'S' FOR CONTINUED BUSINESS SUCCESS WITHIN YOUR SALON

onsultation is a journey, not a process. Did you know that 90% of the client bill will be decided on during the consultation? If you don’t know what she wants, you’ll never be able to create the look she wants. And that’s why we have consultations. Consultations are to identify your clients’ needs and wishes. Asking your clients relevant questions in a way they will understand and using pictorial aids with suitable options will help you both decide on a look that suits their hair and their lifestyle. This is critical. Greeting clients when they come into the salon is the first step in a consultation journey, as it sets the scene. Some points to consider are... • Do you have an allocated space for welcoming clients in the salon? The ideal reception area needs to be warm and inviting for you to be able to greet your clients as soon as they enter the salon. To help your client relax and unwind, it’s also the time to offer magazines and refreshments. Sounds simple but it's amazing how many salons fall short in this regard. • Menus are a good way of clearly communicating the salon services and prices, and they provide an opportunity to list the times it takes for salon services. • It’s important for your client to know your scheduled appointment times are maintained. If there is a delay, it’s vital to let them know the waiting times to ensure the journey is smooth and stress-free.

The consultation should take place in a secluded area that lends itself to open communication, as these are conversations that enable the stylist to get to know the client better. Stylists need to be empathic and considerate to create positive communication about what clients want and any concerns they might have. Ask open-ended questions to get as much information as possible about client likes and dislikes. These questions always start with a "What, Why, How or When" and enable clients to express their feelings without giving a simple ‘yes’ or ‘no’ answer. Remember, it’s important to do consultations without a gown covering the client’s clothes and body shape, as this is all part of the total picture. To create styles that really suit clients you cannot look at the hair in isolation. Never assume because of the way she dresses that a client has a certain lifestyle. To get the best results you need to know lots about your client’s lifestyle. Here are a few questions to help you find out more... 90

• H ow much time do you have in the morning to do your hair? • What type of products have you used in the past? • What have you always liked or disliked about your hair? You need to build rapport with your clients to find out what they really want and how they really envisage themselves looking.

CELEBRITY LOOKS iPads and tablets can be very effective consultation tools to display visual content - Pinterest boards, for example. Celebrity looks are a great way to showcase to your clients different colours and lengths, and social media has increased the speed with which we can learn about the latest celebrity hair trends. Take Kim Kardashian‘s newly cut blonde lob – we were all talking about it only hours after she had it cut. Always face clients when you are talking to them and only use the mirror to show length, fullness or texture. Communication is far more effective when you are at the same level and looking at your clients face-to-face rather than through the mirror standing behind them. Once you have decided on the length and the style, it’s now time to talk about the colour and health of their hair. Colour should be part of all your consultations as it’s the life-changer. A beautiful cut and style is just part of the picture. Everyone suits some form of colour - from a subtle light-reflecting shine, to the honey tones of L’Oréal Professionnel's current “It" woman - Jerry Hall‘s - wavy lob. Colour doesn’t need to shout - it can be the barest whisper and still have the ability to change your client’s look. Who doesn’t want healthier looking hair that radiates shine and personality? To make your clients feel comfortable before a colour, always tell them how long the service will take and how much it will cost. If you do not explain this, they will be worried that it’s going to be too dark, too light or too expensive. During the colour process, leave clients alone after ensuring they have refreshments and magazines to browse. This is the time for clients to relax and savour their time out.

AT HOME Consultation is not just about the in-salon experience. You will also need to show your clients how to look after their hair at home. This is an area of consultation that is still lacking in many salons, as too many stylists think of it as 'selling retail' rather than viewing themselves as a style coach - coaching clients on recreating their look every day and keeping their hair in optimum, healthy condition.

“Remember it’s important to do consultations without a gown covering the client’s clothes and body shape, as this is all part of the total picture. To create styles that really suit clients you cannot look at the hair in isolation. Never assume because of the way she dresses that a client has a certain lifestyle.” The 'at home' consultation begins by recommending the correct care treatment, followed by making styling suggestions. Ensure you have all the products you talked about or have used at your styling station. Having testers open to touch and smell encourages interaction while also helping to teach recreating the look at home. Think about the last time you had your makeup done and you wanted to know what to do with the latest blush or how to create that smoky eye. You wanted to be able to do this at home and so you purchased the products the makeup artist used. Your clients are exactly the same - they want to be able to recreate the same look at home so show them how much product to use and how to apply it. This should be the highlight of the journey as now clients are seeing their hair dry and being styled.

THE PROGRAMME It’s now time to go over your clients’ programmes. Guide them on when they need to book in next and recommend booking in on the same day and time five to six weeks later, depending on the look. This will help to rebook them and control the frequency of visits for their hair programme. The hair programme and the products need to be talked about both at the consultation journey and at the end. This ensures your clients understand they have not just had a cut and colour but an experience where they’ve really enjoyed their time in the salon. An experience where they feel fantastic, confident and are comfortable to style at home. It’s only now you can take off the cape! Don’t rush your clients out and hurry to the next appointment. It’s the last thing they will remember from the visit. Confirm the next visit and set the scene for it by talking about the continuing and exciting steps in their hair programme. To keep your relationship going strong between visits, consider offering loyalty programmes, keeping communication open through your website or Facebook or a quarterly e-newsletter to keep them up-to-date with all the latest trends and salon news. L'Oréal Professional Products Division Education and Development Manager, Wendy Maxwell, leads the company's Salon 360 Development Programme. Wendy has 28 years experience in the industry. Her role sees her working with salons across Kérastase, L'Oréal Professional, Redken and Matrix brands. She has worked and attended training internationally in Paris and London on business development for L'Oréal.

BUSINESS

SOCIAL essentials IS SOCIAL MEDIA JUST A PASSING FAD OR A NECESSARY BUSINESS TOOL? CAN YOU AFFORD TO IGNORE IT? SENIOR DIGITAL STRATEGIST, COLIN REBAIRO, HAS THE ANSWER.

his is just one of many, many questions I’ve been asked over time, prior to my talk late last year at Redken's Tribe event in Fiji with some of New Zealand’s leading salon owners. Ignoring or not respecting social media as a true business or brand tool could be a large disadvantage to any established business today. We’re dealing with a new world of constantly connected consumers. What’s surprising is the speed of adoption to digital and social media we’re facing in New Zealand and the fact that the majority of those people online are doing so via their mobile phone whilst out and about. It’s been recorded that more than 78% of us own a smartphone and more than 2.2 million Kiwis are on Facebook daily.

HOW BEST DO I UTILISE THE LIKES OF FACEBOOK TO COMMUNICATE? Each social media platform (Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, etc) have different roles to play in our lives, so tapping into the why and what is essential in building a relationship with your clients and potential customers. Facebook, for instance, is a platform for discovery, obtaining reviews, sharing or experiencing vicariously great experiences of those they know or those businesses/salons they would like to potentially build a relationship with.

I USE FACEBOOK, BUT ISN’T FACEBOOK REALLY JUST FOR THE YOUNG? Recent statistics show that the fastest growing Facebook group here in New Zealand is our 55–65 year old women. Within all age groups, the average person checking their Facebook newsfeed is now 7 times per day, consuming more than 15 hours a week. To build on this, we’re also seeing Twitter become a social platform adopted and regularly checked by even more of us, placing our beautiful little country as the 12th most 'Twitterish' country in the world. 92

“Ignoring or not respecting social media as a true business or brand tool could be a large disadvantage to any established business today. We’re dealing with a new world of constantly connected consumers.” WHERE DO I START? If you’re a salon owner or manager, then I highly recommend you start taking the reigns of your social media strategy/approach and overall online brand if you haven’t done so already. To help you on your way, let me take you through the likely journey of those seeking you out online: 1. Most prospective customers looking for a new salon will turn to the likes of Google to find someone local if they’re not aware already. You’re competing with other local businesses so giving yourself the best possible advantage of ranking highly in terms of search can be your first step to winning a new customer. 2. From there they’re likely to click through to your website, to get an idea of what kind of business you are, what you offer, look like and get a flavour for the quality of your work. This is your opportunity to show them your salon image - give them the best visual demonstration of your business and inspire them to want to explore further. With this, remember that they are most likely coming to you from a mobile device. So, if your site isn’t set to deliver a great experience for a mobile screen, then they are likely to go elsewhere before they’ve even got a feel for who you are. If you have a gallery of your work (which is what they’re also looking for), it’s a good idea to offer the ability for them to pin those images to their own personal Pinterest boards or share with someone they know via Facebook. 3. Then comes social media. Facebook is ultimately a platform for discovery, as people today know that Facebook will give them insights into a business they’re considering or person they want to connect with. They will seek out reviews, recommendations and get a feel for how people engage with a business and how the business engages with them. With this in mind, you can look to create an image which best portrays what you want to be seen as. Allow the relationships with your customers to come to life to demonstrate how you would deal with new customers - in salon and online. Also, allow your customers/fans to show who you are and what you stand for.

HOW DO I GO ABOUT THIS? With a captive audience in your salon who are most likely to be social media savvy already, inspire them to capture themselves having fun with your staff and tag your salon and staff members. This demonstrates your business as the destination to not only obtain amazing looks, but adds a level of escapism to an exciting environment. As your business is visual, consider ways you can show your existing and potential fans different types of transformations. Before and after photos for different styles are a great way to hero your work whilst demonstrating inspiration and your connection to trends. Utilise these images within Facebook and Instagram and tag those customers when you do so. Twitter is also worth exploring if you haven’t already. As a social platform, Twitter is used as a news alert social platform. Designed to give snippets of interesting information, it can become a great sales tool for your business. Whereas Facebook can build relationships and Instagram can build inspiration, Twitter can deliver news of offers, new product arrivals and special deals to drive additional bookings or awareness. But be mindful that Twitter shouldn’t be used as frequently as the other platforms in this sense, as it should only ever deliver what is truly newsworthy. But used well, it can help drive foot traffic or create appeal to those already booked in to try a new treatment. As per your styling, validation of your treatments are just as important, so capturing those moments and asking your client to give their opinion on Facebook is invaluable. And if you’re concerned with negative comments, then don’t be. If anything, it’s an opportunity for you to show customers and prospects just how important your clients are and how you will go out of your way to solve their concerns. So, if you’re considering whether to get into digital and/or social media, or how to manage it, then don’t think any longer. It’s a business tool to extend your brand, your personality and build deeper relationships, and something to take very seriously in growing your physical business for today and tomorrow.

Enjoy the moment

With Timely in your salon you’ll save time, every day. Activate your account in April with the coupon code BUBBLES. We’ll send you a bottle of Moet so you can truly savour the taste of your new-found free time.

S A LO N S O F T WA R E

g e t t i m e l y. c o m

BUSINESS

TIMES HAVE CHANGED

have you?

A RADICAL SHIFT IN THE WAY WE COMMUNICATE WITH OUR CUSTOMERS IS NOW CRUCIAL, SAYS LARISSA MACLEMAN, AND IT'LL HAVE YOU WORKING SMARTER, NOT HARDER.

imes have changed in the way that customers are starting to connect and communicate with local small businesses. As the world continues to evolve around us, business life is becoming increasingly busier with new demands stacking up for the small business owner. And while the years come and go, 94

like the resolutions that are set every January, 2015 is the year to take back control, let things go, and put effort into working smarter, not harder in both your business and personal life. A while back, I conducted a study in my salon of all incoming calls to my front desk. To my surprise, 50% of those calls were existing clients who were rescheduling the appointments they had already made. I was paying a front-of-house person to manage those appointment changes and something had to be done about it! My business life was

certainly getting busier and more expensive, and it wasn’t a sustainable business model. Working smarter means adapting to the circumstances, rather than expecting them to conform to you. If we look at how and when the modern client wants to manage her life, communicate, and sort appointments these days, you’ll find that convenience is at the top of her priority list. The modern working woman’s life is busy. She gets up before everyone else and makes breakfast, then rushes frantically from school to work, nails it at work, sorts the kids and goes back home to cook the evening meal. When she finally sits down at the end of the day to watch her favourite sitcom, after 8pm at night, when most salons are closed, she checks her tablet or phone and starts to think and plan tomorrow, her holiday, or her hair and beauty appointments (along with a touch of Facebook of course). Her Uni-student daughter ONLY communicates online through Facebook Messenger, text message, and of course Snapchat. Salon owners are starting to wonder why their daytime marketing activities don’t get results. Well, this is why! Where is your business at that crucial time of night - or during the few minutes or hours where potential customers could be paying attention to you? Are you online? Are you there for her when she needs you? What is needed in small business these days is a radical shift in the way we communicate to our customers. I recently read that Coca-Cola has ditched voicemail entirely. A risky move for sure, but a study showed it was an outdated way for their staff and customers to communicate. It was a cost they were paying for that had become redundant. They now ask staff and customers to use an alternative method to contact a person if they can’t get through. While they didn’t make it compulsory, only 6% of Coca Cola’s workers choose to continue to have voicemail. This sentiment is not new. Voicemail is out as new communication mediums take its place. “People north of 40 are schizophrenic about voicemail,” says Michael Schrage, from the Massachusetts Institute Sloan School of Management, “and people under 35 scarcely use it.” It’s served us in the past but maybe relying heavily on telecommunications in your business is not the way forward. I know, I hear you muttering about the personal touch, about talking to humans and keeping real relationships. That’s absolutely essential, I agree! But you have that luxury when your client is in your chair. Perhaps it’s time to think about how your client and the world has evolved and how you and your business can rise to the occasion and meet the needs of the busy, time-poor, modern client. Here are 6 suggestions you can use to save you time, cost and work a little smarter and not harder in your business, all while responding to the needs of your modern-day client.

ONLINE BOOKINGS We book travel, dinner reservations and events

online. We’re in a time now where being able to book online is expected. You may be thinking that you don’t want your clients fishing around in your appointment book, which will cause you to lose control of your time schedule. I promise, with Timely online booking you are in total control of your appointments. Clients don’t see into your appointment book at all, and you can confirm each ‘pencilled’ appointment after giving it a quick check first. Apart from the convenience that comes with booking a Brazilian wax from the privacy of your laptop, as opposed to a muffled phone call from the office, research shows that people are more likely to make bookings online after 9pm. They’ll pick a time that suits them, and this will often happen when you’re on your first glass of wine after a busy late night in the salon. With online bookings, you’re never closed and always in control. Here are four guaranteed ways to ensure you increase your appointments with online booking: 1. P lace your online ‘Book Now’ button on your Facebook page. It’s quick, easy, and convenient for clients. You can also create an inviting Facebook post ‘Book Now’ photo, and link it to your online booking page. Post this a few times a week when your business is closed. Also, check when your Facebook fans are online by going to Insights >Posts on your Facebook page. 2. E nsure your ‘Book Now’ button is on your website’s home page as well as the contact page. 3. E nsure your online booking address is on EVERYTHING! This includes business cards, answer phone message, and email signatures. 4. Ensure your online booking service is... • Mobile optimised: Can your clients use it without having to squeeze and pinch? A booking page should respond to the device it’s being viewed on. Remember, around 60% of people who are on the web are on a mobile device, so make it easy for them. • Can your clients book, reschedule and cancel? To maintain her loyalty, you have to provide her with the flexibility to manage her own time. You’ll also save yourself many interruptions with less incoming rescheduling phone calls.

• Ease of use – is it simple and easy to navigate for your clients? Avoid clunky user experiences as it reflects badly on your brand.

TWO-WAY SMS REMINDERS Most of you use SMS reminders to lower no-show rates, but make sure you enable two-way text reminders so your clients can converse with you as well.

and tablet owners check email while watching a TV programme. Add your online booking link to your first email response and let the client take control of their appointment times. Make sure you put your online booking links on all your email signatures. Save the workload at your front desk and give the client what she wants - convenience…hers not yours.

HAIR AND BEAUTY WEB DIRECTORIES

I'm sorry.... what's Facebook?

The days of daily deals are over and hair, beauty and business web directories are here to stay. Clients who are looking for a new salon or spa service like the convenience and ease of everything being in one place, and the odd deal doesn’t hurt them either. Unless you’re fully booked ALL the time, you might like to consider getting your business amongst one in your local area.

WEB FORM While online booking allows you to get on with looking after clients in your chair or managing your team, don’t forget the good old web form. Sometimes a potential customer likes to send you a message, and covering all your options is a good thing! I’m not suggesting you disconnect your landline or voicemail service but that you engage in many ways for your client to get in touch with you. It’s great for your client, it makes you stand out amongst the crowd, and it helps you work smarter, and not harder, in business. If you want to learn more about the art of working smarter in business, check out my free e-book by simply going to this link! http:// www.gettimely.com/work-smarter-not-harder

“Working smarter means adapting to the circumstances, rather than expecting them to conform to you. If we look at how and when the modern client wants to manage her life, communicate, and sort appointments these days, you’ll find that convenience is at the top of her priority list.” FACEBOOK MESSENGER Its here, like it or not, and your clients or your potential clients will be reaching out to your business on Facebook Messenger. The expected response time is instant or they’ll move on. Make sure you’re not the only one who has access to this service in your business. Your front-of-house staff and the rest of your team should be able to secure appointments instantly.

EMAILS My experience with making appointments through email is that it’s a long and tedious process, and not very efficient. However, 57% of smartphone

Larissa Macleman, Business Development and Marketing Manager at Timely Salon Software, owned an award-winning hair salon with a team of over 25 employees for 20 years. More recently, she has worked in online marketing, salon app and business development for hair and beauty salons. This résumé gives her a unique skill-set through which she has been able to run a successful business, handle clients and master technology, all at once. Her role at Timely sees her dealing with business development, marketing and product development that pertains directly to hair and beauty salons. 95

FOCUS FOCUS

VIVA las vegas PAIR THOUSANDS OF HAIRDRESSERS WITH THE VENUE OF SIN CITY...WHAT COULD BE MORE FUN THAN REDKEN SYMPOSIUM 2015?

n January, Las Vegas was flooded by more than 10,000 salon professionals for the grand, and hugely successful, Redken Symposium. Leading educators, stylists, A-list celebrity colourists, apprentices and hairdressers from around the world gathered together for the three-day event, which covers everything from sneak peeks of the newest products, technologies and innovations, to hosting first-class education seminars. Sheri Doss, VP for Education of Redken Worldwide, describes the global forum as, "an incredible opportunity to have the most creative and powerful professionals working together under one roof to further shape this industry.” Symposium boasts not only the highest number of international attendees ever, but also the biggest number of educational facilitators. Our very own (newly crowned) New Zealand Hairdresser of the Year 2015 and Redken Artist, Mana Dave, stepped up to the stage for his second Symposium facilitation experience, alongside Redken Education Artistic Director Kris Sorbie, who hosted ‘The Worldwide Colour Movement’. The Worldwide Colour Movement focuses on bringing together the uniqueness from each facilitator's own country - New Zealand, Italy, Canada and America. “It was all about what we see in colour and the environment we are based in, how that influences what we are drawn to and the type of work we create," says Mana. “Our room capacity had 1200 people, so over six sessions we had a lot of people through! I was really 9696

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fortunate with the people I worked with, Kris Sorbie, George Garcia and Sean Godard. They have a whole lot of experience from previous Symposiums, which for me was a really good learning opportunity.” Logistically, Symposium is no small feat with 657 models to be coloured, cut and styled before the event begins.That equated to 70,000 tubes of colour, 5500 styling products, 350 haircare products, 125 boxes of wardrobe styling and 1000 pairs of shoes! “Symposium is huge," Mana says. "For two days straight we were prepping the models, colouring, cutting, working out their wardrobe, makeup looks and rehearsing the grand opening show. You are literally in a room the size of a football field with everyone that is presenting a workshop at Symposium prepping together. It is massive seeing all of these really great people in the same room. You catch glimpses of what people are doing and all these amazing models. There is a real buzzing energy.” “My biggest learning came from the logistics and the scale of Symposium. We are really lucky in New Zealand to have the faciliation opportunities that we do, however the scale of the Amercian market creates opportunities that we wouldn’t be able to have here. To add to that, it helps to fine tune my skills as a facilitator. By the end, the last class is a show of pride and gratitude for all the people that made it happen.” Throughout the two days, salon professionals had the opportunity to sit-in on over 25 different classes and panels led by prominent global educators, including Chris Baron and Sam Villa. The classes covered a raft of different topics from social media, colour correction and runway trends, leaving attendees fuelled to “learn better, earn better, and live better”. For those thinking about coming to Redken Symposium 2017, Mana says to “come for the experience of being surrounded by a huge number of people that have the same energy as you. Tap into that energy and be fuelled, hang out in Vegas and see some great hair. It is cool fun!"

fatboy 39 William Pickering Drive, Albany, Auckland

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n 1997, Sothys attracted worldwide acclaim when in collaboration with Dr. Albert Kligman, pioneered the use of Retinol (the purest form of Vitamin A) in a unique ‘Microsponge delivery system’ which allowed the new miracle ingredient to be absorbed into the skin progressively and without losing any of its effectiveness. A world first formulation and Sothys exclusive patent which would become a ‘gamechanger’ in the arena of professional skincare. True to its innovation heritage, Sothys have once again developed a unique clinical based range for the exclusive prescription by the trained Sothys Clinician. Principally based on classic ingredients including Pure Retinol, Vitamin C, Hyaluronic acid and Glycolic acid, the system delivers dramatic improvement in skin texture, tone, uniformity and its overall appearence. Cosmeceutique Rx provides the perfect compliment to intensify the existing Sothys programme of products and treatments, in complete safety and with absolute well-being in mind.

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autumn

RENEWAL RESCUE AND REPAIR CLIENT’S SKIN AND INTRODUCE A PRE-WINTER BEAUTY BOOT CAMP AS A MEANS OF GENTLY LETTING SUMMER GO. ANNE O'BRIEN TELLS YOU HOW...

an I be honest and say that for some reason I am not looking forward to autumn? Having enjoyed such a long and wonderful summer, I am hesitant to let go of my rose-gold sandals in favour of my boots on the weekends. As I look out the window at yet another Dutch-blue sky and glorious morning I’m thinking, am I really going to embrace the brown and orange of autumn so soon? Don’t get me wrong, I love the thought of a new season of fashion and an excuse to update my bathroom cabinet with a new skincare routine. My two favourite products are actually brown and orange (cream tan and Vitamin C Serum) but if I’m feeling a little hesitant about saying goodbye to the summer of 2015, I’m sure my clients are as well. How then do we as spa and salon owners encourage our spa and salon goers to "fall’ in love with this season? Here are 6 steps to help customers welcome autumn by getting involved in a ‘rescue and repair’ beauty boot camp. The first step is to make the transition into this new season a gentle one. Autumn (like spring) breaks at the end of a rather tough time on the skin. The summer brings harsh sun exposure and the winter the cold blasts. Autumn and spring represent the perfect time to renew, repair and recover from the environmental aggressions of the two stronger seasons of the year. Explain to your clients now is a good time to start preparing for winter – you’re not saying goodbye to the summer, merely starting a pre-winter boot camp for the skin. Begin with a consultation (as we always do for a change in season) that recommends an upgrade to the daily cleansing routine. Introducing a moisturising cleanser at the end of the day will begin the process of protection for your clients’ skin. Summer damage will have created cellular build-up on the skin’s surface and just as the trees begin to shed unwanted leaves, so too should your clients be shedding this 104

extra layer of cells to allow for rejuvenation and repair to begin. Add a mildly acidic hydrating toner or exfoliating serum into the routine now as well. Throughout the summer, we all become guilty of possibly skipping a couple of our beauty steps as we naturally feel better with a little colour on our skin. This feel-good factor leads to the ‘I’m looking so well I don’t need to exfoliate this week’ voice in our head. The key to finalising a successful cleansing routine is to encourage a rebalance of the skin’s pH. A toner or serum with a gentle glycolic is perfect for this. Save more advanced chemical and natural peels for the

“Autumn and spring represent the perfect time to renew, repair and to recover from the environmental aggressions of the two stronger seasons of the year.” winter season but add a mild glycolic acid now. This is a true wonder ingredient for clients who suffer from hyper-pigmentation and for anyone looking for an anti-ageing ingredient that actually works. Secondly, incorporate into this new cleansing routine a weekly scrub and home care mask. Once or twice a week the skin needs to be treated and it is a great investment for your clients between professional facials. A good quality face mask can be used as a multi-functioning product as well. A pre-function boost, an overnight intensive treatment and a barrier against nasty toxins whilst flying are just some of the many advantages of a great mask. Mask

sales for most beauty businesses across the country are at their peak in March and this is the reason why. Make sure you’re a part of this positive trend. Thirdly, look at what is happening in your clients’ nightlife. Most of us enjoy the privilege of knowing some of what is happening in our clients’ lives. This is a natural connection for our industry - we are therapists after all. We certainly honour the golden rule of never sharing any confidences but this nightlife conversation is one that can be shared. In order to repair summer skin and prepare it for winter inclemencies, you will need to encourage your clients to up the ante on their evening activities. Remind them that the body works hardest to regenerate whilst we are sleeping so extra care in cleansing at the end of the day and the right night cream for cooler months will work wonders to improve the skin's elasticity - something everyone wants. Richer balms and oils for the face and body should be lavished on the skin at night. Supercharge whilst sleeping and the benefits will be obvious within a month. Easy and uncomplicated. Steps four and five focus on the hands and feet. Feet first - have your clients repeat after you. "I promise I will not let my feet turn into alligator shoes this winter". How often does September bring an enormous rush to the head regarding your clients toes? I simply do not understand why pedicures drop off the menu for so many salons and spas in the cooler months. I am a sucker for a pedicure – always have been. I find them enormously restorative and the pleasure of watching someone so expertly paint my toes is a joy. Perhaps because we spend so much time on our feet they need the extra TLC. Why then do we let our clients toes disappear for nearly six months of the year? Start by introducing beautiful and sparkly hues to your pedicure station now. As we say at head office ‘ditch the pastels’ and start on the glam. In the cooler

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months it’s fun to experiment with all sorts of crazy colours and there is nothing better than looking down at gorgeous toes as the mornings begin to get a little cooler. Make sure you have a list on-hand of the benefits of pedicures. In fact, make sure you have a list on-hand of all the health benefits of your treatments. So often we forget we are involved in primary care and think it is glamour and not wellness we are pursuing. Pedicures have been a means of therapeutic treatment for over 2,400 years and here is why... • A relaxing foot soak reduces stress. • The foot massage stimulates circulation and boosts the immune system. • Removing excess dead skin helps with relieving pressure and enhances balance. • Adding paraffin will nourish the skin and help with arthritic pain. Adding foot care to your boot camp is a great way to protect against the winter blues. 106

In regards to the hands, we all know they are a major telltale sign of ageing but are most often

“So often we forget we are involved in primary care and think it is glamour and not wellness we are pursuing.” neglected due to a time-poor lifestyle. The cooler months play havoc on cuticles in particular. The simple addition to your clients routine of cuticle oil on their desk or in their purse will have extraordinary results through autumn. I promise this small product will a make an enormous difference. Make sure you have a professional product available that will not leak in transit, smells delicious and with a lid that is easy to get off. Finally, our sixth beauty boot camp tip is the

addition of a nourishing (rather than a lightweight) SPF. The cooler days mean a drier complexion so it’s an ‘out with the old and in with the new’ policy for sun protection. It is your responsibility to remind your clients to keep their products up-to-date and relevant and there is absolutely no point in applying an expired sun block or a product that has lost some of its efficacy by being left out in the sun. Updating the texture of the SPF and making sure the products are ‘fresh’ is a must. I have actually saved the most important boot camp step for last, as a professional SPF is for all-year-round so must be updated accordingly. Well, I hope that’s inspired you – I actually feel a little better myself. Perhaps a spot of boot shopping after thinking about boot camp is now in order… enjoy. Anne O’Brien has been part of the salon and spa professional community for 16 years and is a self-confessed skin care junkie.

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COMMUNICATIONS EXPERT, SHARLEEN SINGH, DISCUSSES THE BEST WAYS IN WHICH TO ASSIST CLIENTS WITH OILY OR ACNE-PRONE SKIN

HEY

f the many skin issues that clients seek your words of wisdom on, oily skin tends to be a stand-out. Anyone suffering from shiny, greasy-looking skin knows how difficult it can be to manage, so it’s important that you understand the basics. The source of oily skin is the microscopic sebaceous glands hidden underneath the skin. Oily skin is essentially caused by glands that produce too much sebum, resulting in skin that has a greasy, slippery texture, appears shiny, and frequently has large, clogged pores. If that isn’t annoying enough, oily skin also attracts and holds dust and dirt more readily, with a likely increase in surface bacteria. Oily skin types are more prone to developing acne, a condition resulting from sebum trapped inside the skin and causing delightful pus-filled lesions, known as comedones. Hormonal changes, especially those experienced during puberty, may stimulate the chances of acne occurring, which is why teenage skin is so problem-prone. Not sure if your client has oily skin? It’s recognisable by a few classic characteristics: • The facial area is shiny only an hour or two after cleansing. • Makeup appears to slide off the face. • The oilier areas of the face feature blackheads, white bumps or acne. • Pores are visibly enlarged, especially on the nose, chin and forehead. If you have created a positive relationship with your regulars, now is the time to find out if they have teenaged children - chances are that these teenagers may be experiencing skin issues, such as acne. Now is the time to create a relationship with your younger clients, and turn them into lifetime ones. When we think of teenagers we think mood swings, pimples and a know-it-all 108

attitude. As well as offering regular facial treatments, there also needs to be a general guide on external factors that will help prevent scarring on young skin. • More H2O. Increasing water intake is a great way to flush out internal toxins and hydrate skin from the inside out. • With teenagers having more access to fast food after school, increase the amount of healthier food at home to counteract the naughtier foods being consumed outside the home. • Change pillowcases regularly. The build-up of a week's worth of bacteria is quite terrifying, as is sleeping on it for 8 hours at a time. Encourage young clients to change their pillowcases often. • Wash hair regularly. This one might seem like a no-brainer, but it pays to suggest to younger clients that they keep hair clean on a regular basis. Healthier hair equals healthier skin! It also pays to go the extra mile with your younger client’s confidence and appearance of their skin, such as shaping their eyebrows or tinting eyelashes to avoid the use of mascara. This can be done in promotional conjunction with a facial treatment, which shouldn’t strip or over-stimulate the skin. In addition, a good manicure goes a long way, as chipped polishes and unkempt nails are great breeding grounds for bacteria. Acne is not just a teenage problem. One in five women between the ages of 25 and 40 suffer from adult acne, unfairly affecting more women than men. Acne is usually associated with adolescence; however hormones, genetics and everyday stress can trigger acne in adulthood as well. Along with suggesting specific skin treatments to help these clients, it wouldn’t hurt to mention a few hidden causes of acne and tips to implement into your client's day-to-day routine.

specific skin type. To start with, a course of facials should be prescribed, beginning lightly and progressing through to more intensive treatments that hydrate as well as cleanse the skin. A light peel is a great start, and when used in conjunction with other treatments, such as lash tints and manicures, can turn into a great package for clients. Couple this with appropriate home-care products and your clients have a great oily skin starter pack. Using products that are drying or stripping is a common mistake that many clients make, which only forces skin to produce even more oil. Oils are actually better for those with oily skin as they ‘trick’ skin into not producing as much natural oil. An oil-based cleanser may be the perfect tool to combat oily skin. An alcohol-free toner that is loaded with antioxidants and cell-communicating ingredients minimises large pores and removes the last traces of dead skin cells or makeup that can lead to clogged pores. A regular mask that clears and refines pores and draws out impurities in the skin is a must. Suggest your clients use a mask once or twice a week for optimum results, best after exfoliating. On the bright (and shiny!) side, having oily skin is not always such a bad thing. While it may be more difficult to manage, it’s always good to focus on the positives. Dewy-looking skin is a desirable look this season, with the runways all heralding that natural glow. So cheer your clients up by letting them know their skin is on point - naturally! More hydrated skin also means wrinkles and other signs of fatigue are less visible, resulting in a youthful complexion that is more supple over time than other skin types. The fountain of youth may just have been sitting under our (oily) noses this entire time.

“It also pays to go the extra mile with your younger client’s confidence and appearance of their skin, such as shaping their eyebrows or tinting eyelashes”

• Many women believe that makeup is the enemy, as it hinders the skin from breathing - but this is only a half-truth. Switching to a pure mineral makeup that is non-comodogenic is the perfect solution for those that simply cannot go without at least a light touch of coverage. • Phones carry an alarming amount of germs and bacteria, which when rubbed against your skin can cause breakouts. Clean your phone with a disinfecting wipe once a week or alternatively, try using an earpiece once in a while. • Acne along the hairline can pop up when heavy ingredients settle into the skin on the forehead. Always rinse the face after washing out conditioner, and if breakouts are a common occurrence then apply a thin barrier of moisturiser along the forehead before styling your tresses. • Working out is great for skin as it boosts circulation which can calm skin inflammation. To lesson the chances of bacteria build-up, remove all makeup before exercising and wear cotton rather than lycra or nylon. Within 30 minutes of finishing a workout, shower with a hydrating wash which will clean skin without stripping it. The next step is to suggest products and treatments that will work for this

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GREASE-PROOF ACNE AND BLEMISH-PRONE SKIN CAN AFFECT EVERYONE, FROM TEENAGERS THROUGH TO ADULTS. HERE ARE OUT TOP PRODUCT PICKS FOR KEEPING SKIN CLEAR, PURE AND PROBLEM-FREE THIS SEASON

1. DERMALOGICA CLEAR START BREAKOUT CLEARING FOAMING WASH was created specifically for teenage skin, with a price-point to match. This breakout-fighter deep cleans and purifies skin, washing away dead skin cells, dirt and excess oil that clog pores. 2. ENVIRON B-ACTIVE SEBUGEL A contains a low dose of vitamin A, with tea tree oil and colostrum, which functions as a natural antiseptic. Formulated to control bacterial spread and reduce inflammation, Sebugel-A reduces skin's production of sebum, whilst hydrating and soothing problem areas. 3. SOTHYS DESQUACREM FORTE is a deep pore cleanser, enhanced to remove deep-seated congestion by combining Salicylic Acid with wheat amino acids. Ideal for all skin types, except sensitive, and particularly for those concerned with congestion. 4. DECLÉOR AROMESSENCE™ YLANG YLANG is perfect for oily skin, helping eliminate imperfections, reduce shine and leaving the complexion pure and clear, whilst improving the ‘staying-power’ of makeup. This multi-active serum normalises the complexion, rebalancing sebum production and mattifying skin. 5. OSMOSIS SKINCARE PORE MINIMIZING CLAY PURIFYING MASK features Bentonite and Kaolin clay to remove impurities from pores while it detoxifies and balances blemish-prone skin. The non drying formulation regulates oil production, for an even toned complexion and minimized pores. Active ingredients help address acne and blemishes.

6. VUTAN PEACH & VANILLA BODY WASH assists tan-fans in gently yet effectively cleansing skin, removing impurities and build-up but keeping skin's natural oils intact. Enriched with Aloe Vera and Papaya extracts to soothe, Cocoa Butter, Jojoba Oil and Shea Butter provide the nourishment oilier skin needs. 7. SOTHYS HYDRA-MATT FLUID has been formulated to absorb and regulate oil secretions day and night. This fresh, light fluid contains almond proteins, absorbing powders and a biotechnological complex to reduce shine, protect and hydrate the skin.

8. DERMALOGICA CLEAR START EMERGENCY SPOT FIX for teen skin is a powerful concentrated gel for placing directly onto individual breakouts. The formula wipes out pimple-causing bacteria deep within the pore to help clean out those breakouts fast. 9. MEDIK8 BETA AOX is a powerful, stable antioxidant formula delivered in a lightweight, 100% oil-free serum and is perfect for break-out sufferers who want to use water-based products. Formulated with Medik8's patented copper PCA, a revolutionary ingredient that has incredible antioxidant performance without the use of vitamin C. It also contains beta-glucan and niacinamide to soothe and relax the skin.

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10. JOYCE BLOK NATURAL SKIN CARE’S ACTIVE PURIFYING LOTION offers an effective solution to help minimise, heal and prevent skin blemishes. This high-performance product also works to reduce and control oiliness in overactive complexions, normalising sebum production and decongesting the skin without drying or stripping away vital moisture. 11. MEDIK8 BETA GEL is designed for use on individual blemishes or problem areas. The updated formulation contains a fusion of spot-fighting actives, including Dioic acid, Salicylic acid, Azelaic acid and niacinamide, all in a soothing and cooling clear gel. Packaged in a handy tube for those on the move, this spot corrector leaves an invisible film which doesn’t peel off, so concealer can easily be added on top. 12. GLO MINERALS PROTECTIVE LIQUID FOUNDATION MATTE II for very oily skin, is an oil-absorbing liquid mineral makeup for buildable coverage with an ultra-matte finish. Talc-free, non-comedogenic and fortified with an exclusive antioxidant blend of vitamins A, C, E and green tea extract, this soothing foundation provides a beautifully flawless finish for skin under stress.

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SPA ZONE

CLIENT BASE 70% female 30% male

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SPACE 11,000 square feet 12 treatment rooms

PRODUCT LINES Cirepil, Chuan Spa, Deborah Lippmann, Kerstin Florian, Kevin Murphy, Milbon, Moroccanoil, Neova, Priori, Zirh

EQUIPMENT Chadsworth & Haig, HydraFacial by Edge Systems, Mistral by Radiancy, SpaSoft, Technogym

INTERIOR DESIGNER BraytonHughes Design Studios (San Francisco)

east meets west A CHERISHED HISTORIC HOTEL INTRODUCES A SPA FEATURING TREATMENTS INSPIRED BY TRADITIONAL CHINESE MEDICINE AND MODERN INNOVATION

n iconic landmark, The Langham Huntington in Pasadena, California recently celebrated its 100th anniversary. Opened in 1914 as the Huntington Hotel, the property, located at the base of the picturesque San Gabriel Mountains, has continued to evolve and reinvent itself over the years. This past June, the hotel gave spa enthusiasts a new reason to visit with the debut of Chuan Spa, which unites indulgent rituals grounded in ancient modalities with innovative beauty technologies. The 12-treatment-room spa, influenced by Chinese architecture and Pasadena’s arts and crafts tradition, is an urban oasis located just outside of Los Angeles. Among the treatment rooms are two couple’s suites, one of which is a completely private VIP space with two massage tables, a relaxation area, and a wet zone with a sauna, a steam room, and an experience shower for two. The spa also features a Contemplation Lounge and a Dream Room, along with saunas, steam rooms, and Jacuzzis in both the men’s and women’s locker rooms. Appealing to the Los Angeles clientele, the spa even sports a yoga and Pilates studio and a space for meditation classes. Developed by the Hong Kong-based Langham Hospitality Group, Chuan Spa is the only global spa brand founded on traditional Chinese medicine (TCM). As a result, the menu offers an intriguing mix of healing treatments that incorporate the five elements of earth, fire, metal, water, and wood.

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“Chuan Spa exclusively developed more than 20 signature treatments with the guidance of an in-house traditional Chinese Medicine doctor to ensure the highest levels of authenticity and conceptual integrity,” says Nichole Hester, director of spa and business development. “To compliment these services, a comprehensive Chuan-branded retail and professional spa product range was created, which includes the 5 Element Massage Oils and Essential Oils.” Spa-goers can experience the TCM techniques and oils in Chuan Balancing, a massage incorporating acupressure techniques known to release muscular tension and promote circulation of the body’s life force (qi) to help with healing; and Chuan Harmony, which is designed to stimulate the meridians. Not surprisingly, these TCM-based treatments and more are among the most popular on the menu. “Our clientele typically gravitates toward specialty massages,” says Hester. The spa’s most requested treatment is the Chuan Yu Facial, which relies on an ancient gua sha, or scraping, technique to stimulate key meridian points. It also incorporates a healing jade stone to nurture and restore skin. Although the signature Chuan treatments are definite highlights of the menu, the spa also features treatments from Kerstin Florian and Priori that were created exclusively for the Pasadena location, such as the Chuan Yu Facial, which relies on Kerstin Florian products, and the Advanced AHA Deluxe Anti-Ageing, which uses Priori products. The spa distinguishes itself from other Chuan Spas by offering these exclusive treatments and brands. “We chose these product lines because they are known for their results while focusing on providing guests with a luxury feel,” says Hester. The diverse product lines carried by the spa also encourage guests to reach for their pocketbooks. “Retail plays an integral part in our overall success,” says Hester. “We set retail goals and review them weekly with the team. We believe that ongoing retail training has created a confidence in our team to promote our brands.” 114

Enhance skin’s autumn radiance Fleur De Mer’s SPF 50 TINTED SUNSCREENS

The spa is also the only hotel spa in California from June this year to feature Mistral by Radiancy, a cutting-edge skincare technology that combines Light and Heat Energy (LHE) in a computer-based device to treat acne, scars, wrinkles, and more. It can even be used for hair removal. According to Hester, the system delivers the results of costly laser treatments without the downtime, side effects, time investment or hefty price tag. Spa-goers interested in high-tech skincare options also appreciate the HydraFacial machine, an effective skin rejuvenation system that infuses the skin with antioxidants, peptides and hyaluronic acid. “These services, combined with the TCM treatments, provide guests with unique experiences not to be found anywhere else,” says Hester. It’s these exclusive offerings and the chance to unwind that draw locals in from the community. With 21 full-time and 18 part-time employees, the spa can accommodate approximately 200 guests each day. Says Hester, “Our plan is to continue building awareness in our community for Chuan Spa and partnering with a local TCM doctor to better promote our brand.”

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SKIN

WHEN SKIN BREAKS OUT, IS IT A CLUE TO HIDDEN HEALTH PROBLEMS? SARAH HARPER INVESTIGATES.

o you sometimes feel like a adult with teenage skin? You are not alone. "Acne is affecting more and more people in their 20s, 30s and 40s," says dermatologist, Dr Patrick Bowler. According to Chinese medicine, the cause of adult acne is more than just skin deep - and where you get these spots reveals a lot about your health and your lifestyle. Problem skin is regarded as a symptom of imbalances in one of the eliminative organs - the kidneys, liver, colon or lungs. "Certain organs become overloaded by the wrong foods, which stop them getting rid of waste efficiently," says Bowler. "Spots are the result. Herbal treatments can help with detoxification but changing your diet can always work wonders." So, what do your spots reveal about your health?

UPPER AND LOWER FOREHEAD

PROBLEM ORGANS: Spots on the upper forehead are linked to bladder issues; and on the lower forehead to the intestines. LIFESTYLE IMBALANCES: You could be eating too much sugar, milk, juices, red meats, saturated fats and proteins, or taking a lot of medication. SKIN SOLUTION: Your body is having trouble eliminating the above foods - cutting down on these should help with detoxification.

BETWEEN THE EYEBROWS

PROBLEM ORGAN: Liver. LIFESTYLE IMBALANCES: You may be eating too much fat, fried foods and dairy products; try cutting down on alcohol too. SKIN SOLUTION: Bake or grill food whenever you can, or stir-fry with olive oil. Also, the liver symbolises anger and frustration - suppressing these emotions can lead to an imbalance in liver energy, which eventually shows up as spots. Herbal remedies used in treatment of liver conditions include Chinese angelica and white peony.

UNDER THE EYES PROBLEM ORGAN: Kidneys. LIFESTYLE IMBALANCES: You may be

stressed, not getting enough sleep and eating a poor diet, not rich in nutrients. SKIN SOLUTION: Small spots under the eyes indicate weak kidney energy, which could be due to the lifestyle factors above. Try to curb your excesses, make relaxation and sleep a priority and look for vitamins or tonics that can help boost kidney energy.

“Problem skin is regarded as a symptom of imbalances in one of the eliminative organs - the kidneys, liver, colon or lungs. Certain organs become overloaded by the wrong foods, which stop them getting rid of waste efficiently… spots are the result.”

CHEEKS, CHEST AND UPPER BACK

PROBLEM ORGAN: Lungs. LIFESTYLE IMBALANCES: Too much sugar and dairy products and not enough leafy green vegetables and fruit. SKIN SOLUTION: Dairy products lead to a build up of phlegm, so cut them out and look for alternatives, while leafy vegetables and fruit are 'lung-nourishing'. Cutting out smoking is a no-brainer and increased exercise will also assist. Lung problems can also be associated with suppressed grief - you may need to express these emotions (by talking with friends, or even a counseler, for instance) to promote better energy flow.

UPPER PART OF NOSE

PROBLEM ORGAN: Spleen. LIFESTYLE IMBALANCES: You may have blood-sugar imbalances caused by eating a diet high in refined foods and sugar.

SKIN SOLUTION: Cut out alcohol, reduce your amount of sugar intake and eat small amount of healthy food regularly to keep your blood-sugar levels stable.

TIP OF NOSE

PROBLEM ORGAN: Heart. LIFESTYLE IMBALANCES: A healthy heart ensures the smooth flow of blood around the body, which helps keep skin healthy too. A sedentary lifestyle, lack of exercise and poor diet impair heart function leading to poor circulation, so skin suffers. SKIN SOLUTION: Making an effort to tackle your exercise and diet deficiencies will help, and acupuncture and herbs, such as crataegus (hawthorn) will also strengthen heart energy.

LIPS AND SHOULDERS

PROBLEM ORGAN: Your digestive system - you may suffer from indigestion or constipation. LIFESTYLE IMBALANCES: It's highly likely you're not eating enough fibre, vegetables or fruit. SKIN SOLUTION: Eat more of the above foods and avoid any that seem to trigger indigestion. Try drinking green tea as a digestive after meals. Chinese dietary remedies for constipation include fig wine and stewed pears, while t'ai chi exercises can help alleviate tension in the digestive area. Emotionally, you may be holding on too much to past resentments or regrets - learn to let go.

CHIN AND JAWLINE

PROBLEM ORGAN: The reproductive system. LIFESTYLE IMBALANCES: You're overdoing tea, coffee, alcohol and red meat. SKIN SOLUTION: Avoid processed foods and stimulants, such as caffeine, as they contain chemicals that may affect your hormone balance. Herbs such as dong quai (angelica root) can help rebalance the system. It's common to get pimples before a period when hormones fluctuate. But if spots persist in this area, it's probably a good idea to have a proper medical check-up. 117

FOCUS

the beauty 'IT' LIST

A NEW SEASON IS THE PERFECT TIME TO UPDATE YOUR BEAUTY BAG. WE INTRODUCE OUR MAKEUP MUST-HAVES AND SKINCARE FAVOURITES FOR AUTUMN TO KEEP YOU (AND YOUR LOOK) AHEAD OF THE GAME

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GLO MINERALS LUXE LIQUID FOUNDATION SPF 15+ Formulated with light-diffusing Diamond Powder and moisturizing agents, this makeup magician gives a soft-focus effect to skin. Revitalizing upon application, an exclusive blend of antioxidants, including vitamins A, C, E and Green Tea Extract, help erase imperfections for a radiant glow.

RESULTIME MULTI-CORRECTIVE CC CREAM This tinted, multi-tasking, anti-ageing formula not only covers imperfections whilst offering lasting colour correction, it also evens and refines skin's texture, tightens pores, hydrates, nourishes, fights pigmentation and combats wrinkles. All that in one bottle!

OSMOSIS COLOUR EYE TRIO PALETTE We love the new 'Aubergine' eye shadow palette from Osmosis, which combines long-lasting, rich pigment with easy-to-blend colours. The mix-and-match shades create beautifully natural day to evening looks.

4 5

BENEFIC THAI HERBAL COMPRESS

LASH PERFECT EXTENSIONS Boasting thousands of certified technicians in salons and spas globally, with a flagship salon in London, Lash Perfect has become the number one choice for semi-permanent individual eyelash extensions. NZ distributor, House of Camille, describe Lash Perfect as offering salons (and their clients) superior service with the very best products and support.

JANE IREDALE FOREVER PEACH JUST KISSED From Jane Iredale's Country Weekend collection, Forever Peach Just Kissed Lip and Cheek Stain offers a subtle pop of autumnal colour. The stain adjusts to your own chemistry for an irresistible peach shade that flatters skin’s unique undertone and enhances your natural colouring.

LYCOGEL BREATHABLE CAMOUFLAGE SPF 30 Promoting post-procedure healing, this 'cover and recovery' colour corrective concealer soothes skin, is anti-ageing and helps diminish the appearance of skin problems that most cosmetics cannot cover up. Ideal for very sensitive skin and those suffering rosacea, acne, scarring, or uneven skin tone.

The science of Thai Herbal Compress Massage has been practiced for centuries in a culture known for its healing techniques. Now you can take clients on a sensory journey with Benefic Thai Herbal Compresses. Handmade, authentic, with a potent blend of organic medicinal herbs and essential oils, the compresses are bundled in pure cotton to form a 'herbal pressing sphere'. The combination of thermal, herbal, aromatic and massage therapies in one treatment simultaneously has a synergistic effect. Marienne Barbara, Benefic founder and qualified beauty and massage therapist with 20 years experience, says; "It's a simple, effective treatment fabulous for professional therapists because of its numerous beauty and health benefits." Applying the compress topically transfers moist medicinal heat to the skin to be absorbed. This process restores body balance, which the herbs facilitate. Thermal therapy works as a heat-receptor stimulant and works double-duty by blocking the path of the body’s pain transmitters to the brain, resulting in a significant decrease in painful sensations. When a cold compress is applied to injured tissue, blood circulation is decreased, reducing swelling and pain. With Aromatherapy massage, essential oils absorb into the skin, travelling into the lymphatic system and circulating the bloodstream to work their magic. Massage therapy, with its range of techniques, can help relieve pain, rehabilitate, maintain condition and prevent injury, along with enhancing health and wellbeing. This unique therapeutic treatment has a profound effect on mind, body and spirit for a sense of wellbeing and can be used alongside other salon services. There are many treatment options available, so any salon can incorporate these treatments within their business. See www.benefic.co.nz for more information

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O COSMEDICS ANTIOXIDANT HYDRA-MIST Rescue stressed, dehydrated skin on-the-go without disturbing your makeup. While potent antioxidants restore hydration and fight free radical damage, this liquid hydrator is also a makeup setting spray to protect your look all day long.

LA BIOSTHETIQUE BELAVANCE COLOREYES Bright blue eyeliner was the beauty look at Elie Saab this season and colourful makeup continued on from New York to Paris. So take a nod towards the trend with this eyeliner and mascara duo, to create deep, lagoon-blue highlights Also ideal for conditioning and defining lashes.

MEET DR FERNANDES Dr Des Fernandes is an internationally-recognised figure in the worlds of anti-ageing skincare, medical aesthetics and cosmetic surgery. He is one of the champions of the use of vitamin A in skincare and a leader in the field of medical needling. This year, Environ celebrates 25 years and Professional Skin & Beauty will be hosting Dr Fernandes in Auckland on Monday June 29th. Dr Des will conduct a hands-on needling demonstration for stockists, followed by an 'open to the industry' session in the afternoon.Â For more information, email info@psb.net.nz

SOTHYS COSMECEUTIQUE RX GLYSALAC DERMOBOOSTER A resurfacing skin booster with Glycolic and Salicylic acid to increase micro-exfoliation, this active AHA + BHA serum complex refines the texture of skin. It reduces open pores, unclogs congested skin and encourages cell renewal for a smoother, more radiant skin.

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THE RETURN OF GLOSS At New York Fashion Week, we noticed something we hadn't seen in a long time - models sporting good old-fashioned lip gloss. It made for high-shine pouts at Rag & Bone, Rodarte, Fendi and Roland Mouret, whilst it ventured onto the brows at Christopher Kane, the lids at Nina Ricci and the cheeks at David Koma.

BILLION DOLLAR BROWS BROW PENCIL The universal colour of this best-selling eyebrow pencil works with all skin and hair tones, gliding on smoothly with a built-in brush to blend and ensure a natural look. Best of all, it's self-sharpening.

SPARITUAL SIGNATURE LACQUER COLLECTION We're all about ditching the pastels this season and going bold with nail colour. We love Jubilee's crimson-pink, Expansive's tangerine-orange and Bold's blue shimmer, all from SpaRitual's Signature Collection.

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DECLEOR FLASH RADIANCE MASK An autumn pick-me-up for lacklustre skin, this multi-active mask boosts internal and external factors responsible for immediate, lasting radiance. Its smooth gel texture allows for fast, easy application, offering results in just 3 minutes.

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CARONLAB BRILLIANCE HARD WAX Already a best-seller, Arrow Beauty's Caron's XXX White Wax with exotic coconut now comes in a versatile microwaveable container. Its unique, creamy and highly flexible formula provides unrivalled waxing results on any skin type, and actively reduces skin redness.

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SUSAN POSNICK COLORCOATED LASH ENHANCING MASCARA This lash-enhancing formula took 2 years to create, ensuring long voluminous lashes that last through rain, sweat and tears. The unique double-twist brush separates, lengthens and thickens lashes in one easy twirl.

REVITALASH ADVANCED EYELASH CONDITIONER This award-winning formula addresses visual signs of eyelash ageing and stress. A blend of advanced technology and natural botanicals protect against breakage and brittleness to improve flexibility, moisture and shine, for dramatic-looking lashes.

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A stunning infusion of organic, natural & hypo-allergenic ingredients

SOTHYS ORANGE & QUINCE FACIAL Sothys' new seasonal facial features a cocktail of minerals and vitamins to strengthen and protect. Orange and quince are included for their high content of minerals our skin lacks during winter. Three homecare products have also been released: Orange & Quince Cocoon Hand Cream, 2-in-1 Mask Exfoliant and Oxy-mineral Treatment Serum.

A GORGEOUS LOOKING TAN - HYDRATED, SOOTHED & NOURISHED SKIN

IF YOU LOVE ORGANIC INGREDIENTS... YOU’LL LOVE OUR NEW TANNING RANGE

LA BIOSTHETIQUE SPA L'HUILE We love this relaxing yet rich, rapidly-absorbed body oil. Intensively conditioning skin with a unique blend of plant lipids, this massage in a bottle also includes extracts of balloon vine, blackcurrant seed and sunflower to protect, nourish and renew skin.

Call SunFX today on 0800 826 669 Email: sunfx@sunfx.co.nz www.sunfx.co.nz 121

TREND WATCH

youth

MOVEMENT

HEADWAY'S LONDON BEAUTY CORRESPONDENT, STEPHEN HANDISIDES, OFFERS AN INSIGHT INTO THE UK'S LATEST ANTI-AGEING AND AESTHETIC INNOVATIONS AND WHAT WE CAN EXPECT TO SEE MORE OF IN 2015.

he aesthetic industry in the UK is booming at the moment. While less surgical procedures were performed in 2014, non-invasive techniques have never been more popular. Technology has enabled procedures to become increasingly quicker, less painful and cheaper than ever before, but still have the ability to obtain amazing results. The buzz at the moment is all about revitalisation - but not of the face - of the vagina! When a live “vagina facial” was performed on morning TV, it became an instant Internet sensation. What exactly is a vagina facial? According to pioneer Lisa Palmer, the effect of the technique – which involves some steaming and applying vitamins and egg white to the intimate area – is to give women “the vagina of a 25 year old”. The treatment is now set to enter the mainstream over here, especially as celebrities such as Gwyneth Paltrow have confessed to indulging in them! The A-lister revealed that she tried vaginal steaming after she visited Tikkun Spa in Santa Monica. This less invasive technique is looking sure to take off. Not to be outdone, men are also catching up with the aesthetic beauty trend. The male UK skincare market is worth an estimated £600 million and thanks to the popularity of TV shows such as The Only Way Is Essex and Embarrassing Bodies, more and more men are happy to be plucked, injected and groomed than ever before. The most popular treatments for men in 2014 in the UK were eyebrow threading, anti-ageing injections, such as Botox, hair removal and manicures. Surgeons are also seeing a rise in the amount of men having blepharoplasty or eyelid surgery to you and I. In fact, last year it was the most popular cosmetic surgery procedure for men, coming out at number one in the British Association of Aesthetic Plastic Surgeons (BAAPS) audit for 2014. My theory is that this popularity is due to a lack of non-invasive solutions to tired-looking eyes and under-eye bags. While there are now great non-invasive procedures for weight loss and anti-ageing, men wanting to look fresh and 122

well-slept still need to find a surgical solution. Speaking of weight loss, fat grafting will continue to be the biggest game in 2015 thanks to refinements in harvesting techniques, as well as more reliable, reproducible results, with or without facial surgery. A fat grafting procedure transfers fat from areas in which you have excess fat, such as the outer thighs, and injects it into areas that may be lacking in volume, such as your face, hands, breasts or buttocks. This safe, long-lasting, well-tolerated procedure produces natural-looking results. The procedure rose to seventh place in the BAAPS audit of popular treatments for 2014 - expect to see it rise further this year. If fat grafting is a step too far, then the Vanquish RF™ might be more up your street. This is a newly-developed body contouring treatment that sends radio frequency energy into the fat layers of the skin without allowing it to go into other areas. The practitioner is able to treat larger, targeted areas with minimal side-effects and over the course of several treatments, clients notice visible reduction of fat in the treated areas. In fact, the use of radio frequency is proving to be a very powerful weapon in the war against ageing and obesity. Another similar treatment is Intracel. This treatment - dubbed the ‘radio frequency facelift’ - is a method for performing a non-invasive treatment and utilises radio frequency techniques to smooth wrinkles and tighten and lift the skin, defining next-level anti-ageing results. The Intracel delivery system is unique because it pushes electrical currents into the skin rather than through it, allowing for deeper penetration without damaging the epidermis. This means it is also great for treating acne and other skin conditions too. All in all, there’s tons to look forward to in 2015 and beyond; it’s really exciting to see results continue to improve, as both recovery times and costs shrink. Stephen Handisides is a New Zealand-born, UK-based, TV presenter and beauty aesthetics expert, who runs the largest global aesthetic event in the UK - the MyFaceMyBody Awards. The awards is being launched in New Zealand and Australia this year, with the big event held in Sydney on November 28th.

NEW PRODUCTS

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3 OF THE BEST… Goodbye to brittle, short lashes with World Beaute MTS Lashpep. Peptides strengthen and condition, preventing breakage and allowing full growth potential. 4 weeks on, lash length and fullness will have increased by 25%. Revitalash Hi-Def Tinted Brow Gel helps control, enhance and condition brows for dramatic results. Protecting from brittleness and breakage, Hi-Def tames, defines, fills in sparse areas and sculpts for fuller, more beautiful brows. Jane Iredale Jelly Jar Gel Eyeliner in Espresso offers a soft, creamy formula that glides on for a defined, smudgeable line that lasts all day long. The highlypigmented colour is beautifully inky and water resistant, to create eyes that pop.

Rise & Shine

BEAUTY

shelf

Goodbye to brittle, short lashes… 4 weeks on, lash length and fullness will have increased by 25%

Improve firmness, brighten the complexion and help diminish the appearance of wrinkles with Algologie Lift & Lumiere Anti-Age Cream. Clarifying skin whilst reducing pigmentation spots, this pot of goodness contains 100% natural marine active ingredients to give exceptional regenerating power at all skin levels.

Nail The Look SpaRitual's autumn nail lacquer collection - Wander – introduces six matte-shimmer shades. The richly-pigmented, sun-kissed colours include deep navy, rich gold, berry-red, khaki-green, dusky pink and burnt bronze, with a texture described as 'sandy matte'.

Coming Clean Eco Option Made from 100% bamboo fibre, the popular Bio Towel from Professional Hair Brands is now available in black. Highly absorbent, wicking away moisture more effectively than cotton, these fully biodegradable professional towels can save your salon up to 40% off laundry costs and are a completely fresh, sanitised option. Along with being a great space and time-saver, they also give you the feel-good factor of knowing you're reducing your carbon footprint. 124

Transforming oily and blemished skin, Osmosis Deep Clean Detox Cleanser combines coconut surfactants and citrus essential oils, such as lemongrass and grapefruit, to remove deep impurities, makeup and toxins. Skin is left fresh and clean, but without drying or stripping skin's protective lipid barrier.

Anti-Ageing and ultra technical skincare to offer clear and visible results with an exclusive anti-ageing innovation: Vectorised Micro-Collagen. Vectorised Micro-Collagen has double action on cell and tissue metabolism, providing exceptional results on the production of Collagen* and Hyaluronic Acid*: respectively + 49% and + 78% in just 48 hours.

FREEPHONE House of Camille 0800 406 416 www.houseofcamille.co.nz

NEW PRODUCTS

1 2 3 3 OF THE BEST… La Biosthetique Spa Le Lait is a nurturing, moisturising body milk comprising yogurt components to protect skin's balance. Active milk ingredients strengthen skin's structure for visibly softer results, with a 24-hour hydration effect. Sothys Cosmeceutique RX Ultra-C Dermobooster is a high-potency vitamin C serum, targeting stress, hyper-pigmentation and ageing. This nourishing booster also improves skin's protective barrier, leaving dull skin with renewed radiance. Medik8 Anti-Redness Corrector offers 6 targeted actions to reduce all forms of skin redness and help prevent future breakouts. It also alleviates skin discomfort and reduces skin reactivity, for a clearer, calmer, more radiant skin.

Intensive Care

BEAUTY

shelf

From lush gold satins and futuristic neutrals, it's all about pushing the boundaries of bold colour this autumn

Fancy Fingers FABY’s latest seasonal collection - Future FABY - invites women to explore unique shades, textures and finishes with twelve distinct lacquers. From lush gold satins and alluring charcoal crèmes through to shimmering blue tones and futuristic neutrals, it's all about pushing the boundaries of bold colour this autumn. 126

Decléor's Intense Nutrition range focuses on dry skin with a sense of comfort. The range features a star ingredient, Essential Oil of Egyptian Marjoram, which offers all-round correction for the 6 characteristics of dry skin. The collection - Aromessence Marjolaine Nourishing Oil Serum, Night Balm and Cocoon Cream - nourish and strengthen skin’s natural defences, boosting lipid synthesis and repairing and soothing skin instantly.

Body In A Bottle St Tropez Gradual Tan Plus Firming 4-in-1 Body Lotion is the ultimate multi-tasker to tan, firm, tone and moisturise. Infused with Aloe Vera to soothe and nourish, and antioxidants to energise, this hard-working tanner provides a warm, healthy-looking glow, whilst energising skin cells and firming problem areas.

Glow Deep VuTan's V2Blue welcomes Extra Dark to its family of spray tanning solutions. Vu2Blue contains a blend of violet and brown base shades that capture exotic olive skin tones of the Mediterranean, providing a unique dermal barrier that locks colour into the skin. Hydrating and anti-ageing ingredients feature in this 2-hour solution, the perfect choice for busy clients wanting instant results. From Arrow Beauty.

Make a difference to your salon savings and the environment with new Bio Towels

ith 65% of consumers stating that they feel a responsibility to purchase products that are good for the environment and society, so too are they trending towards salons and spas that embrace this vision of environmental responsibility. Choosing products that are sustainable and ecofriendly can be beneficial in more ways than one; the savings to your salon for a start. This is why the Bio Towel is on our list as one of the best new products.

Bio Towels are hygienic and germ-free

Bio Towels are 100% natural

With Bio Towels, the savings start immediately…

Bio Towels are made from 100% bamboo or viscose fibre which are some of the most renewable plant resources available. Bamboo is grown without pesticides, herbicide or irrigation making it completely sustainable. Bamboo is a grass that grows back so quickly after being cut down that people can actually watch it grow! People have observed bamboo growing more than 4 inches in only 24 hours, according to the American Bamboo Society. Viscose is structurally similar to cotton and made from certified renewable sources of wood fibre, usually spruce or pine. The trees are grown in forests that are constantly renewed.

Bio Towels are biodegradable Due to their natural composition these towels will naturally decompose. Earthfriendly, Bio Towels can be composted and will completely disintegrate into the soil, making them completely eco-friendly.

Bio Towels offer clients a hygienic clean, fresh and sanitised towel. This eliminates the risk of cross infection, giving you and your clients’ peace of mind, unlike cotton towels which are susceptible to bacteria build-up and an unpleasant odour.

• BIO Towels can save your salon up to 40% off laundry costs. • Massive power savings on washing & drying • No more wastage of water on washing • No more laundry chemicals needed • No more expensive towel replacements • Staff time can be spent more productively • Plastic-free, non-toxic • Space-saving (reduce your storage problem) • Various sizes and colours available

You can start reducing your salon’s carbon footprint today by calling PHB to view the full Bio Towel range.

Available only from Professional Hair Brands

p: (+64) 7 847 8350 | f: (+64) 7 847 8354 | e: sales@phb.net.nz | w: www.phb.net.nz Follow us on Facebook: www.facebook.com/phb.net.nz

TREND WATCH

makeup's

NEW MOOD IF THERE'S ONE MESSAGE TO CHANNEL INTO BEAUTY FROM ALL THE EARLY 70S REFERENCES GOVERNING FASHION RIGHT NOW, IT'S FREEDOM.

"Super-nude skin makes wearing mascara feel exciting again."

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EYE INTENSITY

LET THERE BE LIGHT

"The important thing is that the result is a porcelain rather than a tanned glow."

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PARTY SPIRIT

With a scent of a playful, festival vibe in the air, makeup conjures up a carefree spirit by way of a rainbow gathering. From Burning Man and Glastonbury, to free parties and raves, this is a beauty born of feeling the love and going off-grid. Think folksy, field-style translated to urban street-style and 'girls at gigs'. Against raw skin, makeup artists are treating colour as a precious detail which lends a non-precious effect, pulling out new-age colours that have a seaside story to their palette: aquatic clear-water blues and sea foam greens, coral and shell pinks, sherbet and ice-cream pastels (and a smattering of fairground glitter). Mix, don't match, and be free with placement. Embrace the irony of a mint-choc-chip green or a lipstick pink on the eyes. "Lip shades of the eyes are the summery interpretation of last season's 'playing with undertones' in the skin," says Desnoyers. There's only one rule - ease up on the foundation. "Anything involving colour only looks modern when you take away the skin coverage," says Barber.

"Mix, don't match, and be free with placement. Embrace the irony of a mint-choc-chip green or a lipstick pink on the eyes."

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"NO MAKEUP"

"Whilst the effect is natural, nothingness is not laziness; in fact, it's quite the opposite."

Images Courtesy: M.A.C.

It's the inverted commas that are telling of the coming season's most prevalent trend: looking unmade runs the gamut from bare skin, through to something more sun-warmed, but very rarely does it actually mean "no" makeup. "The really real look is about the confidence to apparently not care," says Garland. "But whilst the effect is natural, nothingness is not laziness; in fact, it's quite the opposite. The "keeping it real" details: clean, but not overly worked-on skin (concealer is king); a hydrated finish, minimal powder; translucently groomed brows; no mascara with straight lashes; sheer highlights, an insinuation of sun that ranges from a glow to a freckle to a surfer-girl flush; a little lip conditioner (lipstick is almost obsolete for spring/summer '15). The feeling is warm and clean, not grungy. "She's not a girl who needs to cover her face in foundation for her skin to look good; she'd rather take care of her skin," says Mark Carrasquillo. "No makeup" is a democratic view of beauty - we can all aspire to looking like the best version of ourselves."

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NZ AWARDS

myfacemybody

AWARDS

THE NEW ZEALAND AND AUSTRALIAN AESTHETIC INDUSTRY WELCOME AN EXCITING NEW AWARDS, CELEBRATING THE INNOVATION AND SUCCESS OF A FAST-GROWING INDUSTRY

he prestigious UK MyFaceMyBody Awards are coming to New Zealand and Australia this November, giving our aesthetic and cosmetic clinics, spas and cosmeceutical brands a chance to shine. Described as the largest global aesthetic beauty awards in the world, the event is staged to recognise successful industry innovation and excellence in customer service. Headway editor, Charmaine Guest, is thrilled to join the judging panel for the very first Australasian MyFaceMyBody Awards 2015. The awards were founded by New Zealand-born, UK TV personality Stephen Handisides, known for his work around cosmetic surgery, beauty and health. He is also the founder of MyFaceMyBody; a TV and online resource for consumers considering cosmetic treatments. "I wanted to provide the industry with a prestigious event that was recognized by both the industry and consumers,” says Stephen. “The awards have now been recognized all over the world which is fantastic, with global brands entering their products and professionals from around the globe travelling to attend the big awards night." The MyFaceMyBody Awards are the only consumer awards dedicated to the aesthetic industry that recognise and reward brands for their product innovation and popularity. Clinics are also rewarded for exceptional experiences and outstanding service to their customers. The awards, now in their fourth year in the UK, are attended by 400 leading industry professionals, brands, journalists and celebrities, and were televised in the United Kingdom in 2014. The awards have received nothing but praise from the beauty industry in the UK, with attendees describing the event as, "a glittering night in a fabulous setting and a must for everyone in the aesthetics industry.” One of last year's entrants commented; “It's really important for us to be able to connect with consumers - to listen to their feedback and respond to their opinions. The fact

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that the MyFaceMyBody Awards are influenced by consumer voting makes them unique in the industry and therefore we believe the awards are the premier event on the aesthetic calendar.” Stephen Handisides is excited about launching the MyFaceMyBody Australasia Awards, commenting that his decision to bring the awards Down Under for 2015 was focused on "showcasing the exceptional product innovations and clinical excellence amongst New Zealand and Australia's top beauty experts."

AWARD CATEGORIES The awards are split into two sections: Manufacturers & Suppliers and Practices/Practitioners. Categories range from Cosmeceutical of the Year and Best Anti-Ageing Product, through to Equipment Brand of the Year, Most Innovative Product or Service, Best Customer Service, Best Beauty Blogger and Best Aesthetic Practice.

HOW WILL THEY BE AWARDED? • Product and Media Awards Once companies have submitted their entries online with supporting evidence, a shortlist will be decided on, thanks to a panel of experts, all leaders in their respective fields. The judges will study all entries independently. The finalists will be voted on by the consumer and a final decision will be made by the judges. • Clinic Awards Clinic awards will be judged based on their online entries and supporting evidence. Each finalist will be professionally 'mystery-shopped' at their clinic/ practice where a detailed 12 page report will be reviewed by the judges and a final decision made. The grand awards evening will be held in Sydney on November 28th at The Hilton. For more information or to register your interest in entering, visit globalaestheticawards.com.au or email stephen@myfacemybody.com.

THE WORLD’S FIRST PROFESSIONAL

greencosmeceuticals M e d i k 8 ’s A + B + C o f S k i n c a r e i s y o u r u l t i m a t e anti-ageing skin care regime LEADER IN THE CREATION OF ACTIVE SERUMS

VITAMIN A = RETINOL

Helps speed up cell turnover for dramatically diminished lines and wrinkles.

VITAMIN B = HYDR8 B5 GEL

Medik8’s most powerful hydrating facial serum, helps improve skin’s texture.

VITAMIN C = C-TETRA

C =

A highly potent Vitamin C serum to help protect cells from the inside and trigger collagen production.

SKINCARE SYNERGY

Results without the irritation... www.advancedcosmeceuticals.com.au

Email: info@houseofcamille.co.nz

38 Automotive Drive Wangara WA 6065 Tel 08 9409 5433 | 1800 242 011 | SA | NT | NSW | WA | QLD | VIC | Available at selected clinics and professionals Now available in NZ : enquiries@houseofcamille.co.nz

Call us for more information on the Medik8 range, and to try some samples today!

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FOCUS

Let there be

LIGHT

DR. CATHERINE STONE TALKS ABOUT THE BENEFITS OF IPL FOR POST-SUMMER SKIN

ith autumn almost here, it’s time to start thinking about reversing any damage done during the summer months. We commonly see clients who have noticed an increase in pigmentation, blotchy skin or the appearance of fine, broken blood vessels and suggest treating them with IPL (Intense Pulsed Light) over the winter months. Originally used for permanent hair removal, the anti-ageing benefits of IPL were first noted when clients having hair removed from their upper lip noticed their sunspots and fine red blood vessels also disappeared in the treated area, and the texture of their skin often improved. Excellent studies now show that IPL can be used to treat rosacea and redness of skin, along with fine superficial blood vessels and port wine stains, resulting in a more even skin tone. It's an effective and easy choice to reduce pigmentation, birthmarks, melasma and sun damage, and remains popular and effective for permanent hair reduction. The procedure is quick, simple and very well-tolerated, with high client satisfaction from the results. IPL works on the same principle as laser - light of a particular wavelength is absorbed by pigment in the skin, blood vessel or hair shaft. In the same way that wearing a black top attracts more light energy and turns it to heat, darker pigment attracts more of the light produced by the IPL machine. The ideal skin to 134

treat is pale or un-tanned, with darker pigmentation or hair. By selecting specific wavelengths of light, certain pigment types – and hence different concerns - can be targeted. If you're considering introducing IPL treatments into your salon or spa, take note that there are many different IPL machines coming onto the market – and like most things, all machines are not created equal. The cheaper, lower-powered beauty therapy machines can sometimes give good results, but are not as versatile or effective as the stronger medical-grade machines. Because the medical-grade machines are more powerful, it's extremely important the treatments are administered by a highly-trained, experienced and preferably specialized nurse or therapist, to minimise the risk of side effects and ensure the best possible results. A good clinic or operator should always offer a thorough consultation and patch test at least a week before commencing treatments. At the consultation they will usually provide information on how IPL works, examine the skin to determine parameters like skin type, assess whether or not the client is a good candidate for treatment, and advise appropriate aftercare. For most IPL and laser treatments, it's best to avoid sun exposure in the treated area four weeks prior and four weeks after treatment. For that reason, many choose to commence their treatments late summer and during winter. For most, the treatments are very quick – usually less than 30 minutes depending on the area size to be treated. For a large area like a man’s chest or back, it may take

30-40 minutes, while for smaller areas like the upper lip, it may be less than 5 minutes. The treatment is not painless but is well-tolerated and most people describe it like being flicked by a rubber band. Many find it less painful than waxing!

SIDE EFFECTS With a responsible and experienced therapist, most side effects are minor and temporary. In the wrong hands however, even the lower powered machines can cause burns and scarring. For most, the skin becomes slightly pinker and warmer for a few hours after the treatment. It's not uncommon to get darkening of the skin or pigment for 10-14 days afterwards, but this is usually easy to cover with makeup. It is actually a good sign, as it is pigment that has been destroyed by the light and will disappear completely. If the aftercare instructions are not followed, or if the treatment setting is slightly too high for the skin, a brownish ‘graze’ or some mild blistering may occur. Though these can be concerning, they usually settle completely with no ongoing complications. Clients who use sunbeds, tan or ignore the aftercare instructions, or those treated with a setting way too high for their skin, run the risk of burns – which can lead to scarring long term. For this reason, it is imperative to follow all instructions.

PIGMENTATION Ageing skin develops several types of pigmentation, while some are born with pigmentation problems. IPL can improve most types of pigmentation and is

especially good at treating sun damage found on the face, chest, neck and hands, giving a clearer, more youthful-looking skin. Melasma is a pigmentation problem related to hormones and commonly comes on during or after pregnancy, or while taking the oral contraceptive. Though it often settles down, some women find that some or all of the pigment stays. IPL can often be used to successfully treat this residual pigment, although it is more difficult (and sometimes inappropriate) in women with darker skins. So-called “liver spots” are usually more likely to be “sunspots” and the thicker, scaly ones we call actinic keratoses or AK's (thickening of the skin due to sun damage). A small proportion of AK's go on to become skin cancer, so if the treatment provider has any concerns I suggest they refer the client to a dermatologist before commencing treatment. With IPL, the light rays are converted to heat energy by the brown skin pigment, destroying it. The denatured pigment goes darker and is then cleared by the body over the next 10-14 days. Although some clients have significant changes within 1-2 treatments, 3-5 treatments should get the best results.

“Excellent studies now show that IPL can be used to treat rosacea and redness of skin, along with fine superficial blood vessels and port wine stains, resulting in a more even skin tone.” REDNESS AND BLOOD VESSELS Flushing and redness of the face, neck and chest have traditionally been very difficult to treat effectively. IPL can reduce rosacea and redness by 70-80% in many people. The light rays are attracted to the red haem molecule in haemoglobin, converting to heat energy which then seals the blood vessels. While some see a significant improvement after 1 treatment, sometimes 3-5 treatments may be required. Results can be permanent, though some clients will return for repeat treatments after 1-2 years. Small vessels like spider veins or telengectasia (very fine red vessels) can be treated effectively with IPL but larger veins are best treated using sclerotherapy injections. Collections of blood vessels, like haemangiomas or port wine stains, can also be significantly improved with IPL treatment.

PHOTO-REJUVENATION/ACNE Many manufacturers claim that IPL increases collagen and reduces wrinkles, resulting in smoother, firmer skin. There is presently no good scientific evidence for this, so I believe IPL treatments should not be offered solely for this purpose. However, it can be a welcome side effect of treatments for some. Another pleasant side effect of treatment is that acne or blemishes can improve. The bacteria that causes acne is killed by certain wavelengths of light, especially blue light, and light-based therapies for acne are becoming more popular. Shaver’s rash (folliculitis) also tends to significantly improve.

PERMANENT HAIR REDUCTION Like all permanent hair reduction treatments, IPL will only eradicate hair in the active phase of growth. The light is absorbed by pigment in the hair shaft and the resulting heat is transmitted to the hair follicle, destroying it. Hence darker hair is destroyed more easily than fair or blonde hair. At any time, up to 80% of our hair is in a dormant or sleeping phase, depending on the area the hair is in and our individual growth cycles. One treatment will eliminate one ‘growth cycle’ of hair - it takes 6-8 weeks for the next cycle to come through - hence treatments tend to be 6-8 weeks apart. Long-term, IPL hair reduction is very effective and people will usually see a significant reduction of up to 90% after 5-7 treatments. Dr Catherine Stone is the founder of The Face Place MedSpa and achieved international recognition through her role on the TV program "Ten Years Younger". Catherine has trained with the pioneers of cosmetic Botox and many of the top cosmetic doctors in the world.

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into the season LIZ LAMB EXTOLS THE VIRTUES OF WHY AN APPLE A DAY IS A HUGE BOOST FOR SKIN AND BODY HEALTH.

all us crazy but for the team at Headway Magazine, autumn signals a vista that is more an abundance of apples rather than the northern hemispheres ‘fall’ imagery of orange leaves and chestnuts. Apples are a Kiwi staple and no wonder, as they were first introduced to New Zealand in 1819. Our nation loves this delicious fruit and believe it or not, the average Kiwi eats 15kg of apples and apple products per year! This is lot better for you than the 15kg of lippie we’re also supposed to consume in a lifetime – but that’s another story. The humble apple is a great source of antioxidants – perfect for promoting healthy skin and hair. For those of you unfamiliar with exactly what antioxidants are, these are good little molecules that fight against the damaging free radicals in your body. Free radicals attack your DNA and there is a scientific theory that links them with ageing and disease. Boo to that! Antioxidants work by essentially smothering the free radical so it can’t hurt your body. We heart antioxidants - excuse the pun. The antioxidants in apples are housed in molecules called ‘polyphenols’. They are found both in the skin and the pulp of the fruit and are the secret behind an apple’s bright red colour. The ‘red master painter’ (as we fondly call it) is an antioxidant called Anthocyanin. The deeper an apple’s red colour, the more Anthocyanin in the apple. Anthocyanin is effective at blocking out the harmful effects of the sun’s ray so that the apple can continue to grow. Think of them as a natural sunscreen. This protective role continues when you eat apples as they help to combat damaging sun exposure as well as environmental toxins. We discovered that apples were compared to other commonly consumed fruits in a study conducted in the USA and they topped the charts with having the highest amount of free ‘phenolic’ compounds. What does this mean? Basically, the healthy phenol antioxidants are available in spades in apples and these guys are like panel beaters who repair your body. We heart them as well – sorry couldn’t resist! Apples aren’t just amazing for your skin and hair, they are also good for your heart - now you get all the puns. This has been shown in both population and animal studies. Eating apples has been associated with a reduced risk of heart attacks and heart disease. One study involving 40,000 women showed that apple consumption was associated with a 13-22% reduction in cardiovascular disease risk. Researchers think that the apple’s heart benefits are due to its ability to reduce the ‘lousy’ LDL cholesterol that clogs up your arteries, and increase the good ‘healthy’ HDL cholesterol (which transports cholesterol from your blood stream back to your liver). So how does all of this healthy heart stuff happen? Researchers believe that the combined action of the soluble fibre ‘Pectin,’ as well as the antioxidant compounds, gives apples its heart-healthy effect. Another study showed that apple’s fibre and antioxidants interacted to reduce cholesterol more than they could have done single-handedly. This demonstrates the importance of co-operation for this delightful healthy snack and the benefits of eating the whole fruit rather than reaching for a glass of apple juice. Apples, a perfect combination of deliciousness and health and just one a day WILL keep the doctor away. As always, Mum was right – enjoy. Liz Lamb is a BSc/BCom graduate and a NZ representative high jumper. She is a keen foodie and baker who is passionate about helping others understand the science behind our healthy food choices. Follow her on instagram @whysohealthy and visit her website www.whysohealthy.com

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