SUMMER 2017 - VOL.39 NO.4 #HEADWAY SUMMER #HEADWAY SPRING
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HAIR BEAUTY FASHION NEW ZEALAND / SUMMER 2017 / VOL.39 NO.4
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New Zealand’s leading multi-brand distributor for the world’s most sought after beauty brands. CS&CO established the Salon Division in 2012 and is New Zealand’s home to Fudge Professional, ST Tropez, OPI, Eye of Horus and Triumph & Disaster. With a team of qualified experts in their fields, the Salon Division services both hair and beauty salons and spas nationwide. We strive to help you achieve your business goals.
CS COMPANY LTD trading as CS&Co. www.cs.co.nz
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Contact Haircare New Zealand on 0800 505 385 or haircarenz.com to become a stockist. olaplex.com • @olaplexnz • #olaplexnz
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CONTENTS Hair 15 EDITOR’S NOTE PROFILE 19 10 NEW YEAR RESOLUTIONS: Hair trends to follow in 2017
35 RODNEY WAYNE: Get Your Game On 45 HOLIDAY STYLE: Top stylists share their holiday destinations
48 AIR DRYING: How to encourge natural curl 59 NEW SALON: Chere Cherie in Christchurch 65 NEW SALON: Call me Royals in NSW TRENDS 23 RED EDIT: The rules around going red 43 HAIR NEWS: The latest and greatest
39
HAIR INSPIRATION 69 AT YOUR SERVICE: The salon in a church 74 5 MINUTES WITH: Stylist Sara Allsop 76 MEN’S HAIR: The barbering movement 86 LONDON’S CALLING: Danny Pato on tour
Hustle
9
BEAUTY NEWS
PROFILE 12 SPF FACTS: The essential skin cream 13 SUMMER BEAUTY: Expert advice 15 EYE OF HORUS: Vegan beauty 19 PRO TAN: Spray tan top tips 27 HIGH TECH BEAUTY : Dr Catherine Stone 29 SKIN PRO-FECTION : Tracy May-Harriott
Man
Beauty
TRENDS 17 SMOOTH MOVES: Cellulite trends 23 HAIR REMOVAL: Find out what works best 25 10 NEW YEAR RESOLUTIONS: Beauty trends to follow in 2107
BUSINESS 37 ONLINE SHOPPING SPA 33 A HOLISTIC SPA: On Miami beach 38 SPRING ESSENTIALS: Aurora Spa founder Lyndall Michell
NUTRITION 44 WELL OILED: Cold pressed goodness.
style
76
33
Tierra Santa Healing House
65 Call me Royals
9
Beauty news
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HAIR BEAUTY FASHION NEW ZEALAND / SUMMER 2017 / VOL.39 NO.4
®
MANAGING EDITOR Trudi Brewer trudi@selfcaregroup.co.nz M: +64 9 5795188
ART DIRECTOR Olivia Wimsett - Own Design olivia@owndesign.co.nz
DESIGNER Vanessa Naran vanessa@selfcaregroup.co.nz
TIGI
PRINTING Treehouse Print
EDITORIAL CONTRIBUTORS Trudi Brewer, Sarah Simpson, Anne O’Brien, Catherine Stone, Liz Lamb, Sharleen Singh. Charmaine Guest. ADVERTISING RATES SUPPLIED ON REQUEST
EDITORAL Editorial and pictorial submissions are welcomed. All pictures, prints, manuscripts, and electronic media should be marked with the contributor’s name, contact phone number and address. No material will be returned unless requested and accompanied by a stamped, addressed envelope. No liability or responsibility can be accepted for any loss or damage.
CIRCULATION Headway is widely circulated throughout New Zealand hair, beauty, nailsalons and spas.
INTERNATIONAL SUBSCRIPTIONS 1yr (4 issues) for $95 (including GST and postage) 2yrs (8 issues) for $180 (including GST and postage) HAIR COVER PHOTOGRAPHER: Steven Chee. MAKEUP ARTIST: Angie Barton. STYLIST: Kelvin Harries. PROPS: Lisa Javelin. MODELS: Kelsey @Chic. Emma @Work. Abbie @IMG. Kevin @London MGMT.
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HEADWAY® INTERNATIONAL HAIR & BEAUTY FASHION NEW ZEALAND is published by Self Care Group Ltd, 1016A Great South Road, Penrose, Auckland. HEADWAY is published quarterly in March, June, September and December. It is distributed to all paid subscribers, advertisers and their assigns, and widely circulated through New Zealand professional hairdressing and beauty care salons. All statements, including product claims, are those of the person or organisation making them and do not necessarily reflect the opinions of the publisher. While every care is taken, no liability is assumed or accepted by the publishers for any omissions or errors in articles, listings and advertisements, or any losses due to any omissions or errors.© 2016 Self Care Group Limited. HEADWAY®, ‘HEADWAY INTERNATIONAL HAIR & BEAUTY FASHION NEW ZEALAND”, and “New Zealand HAIR & BEAUTY” are trademarks of Self Care Group Ltd. All articles, illustrations and materials published herein are copyright and are not to be copied, reproduced or distributed in anyway without the express permission of the publisher. All rights reserved.
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Headway | EDITOR’S LET TER
I
t’s funny how life events are cyclic. I started my career as an enthusiastic 17-year-old apprentice at Rodney Wayne in Howick, and now his latest collection graces the cover of this summer issue. And I could not be more chuffed. Becoming a hairdresser was the best career choice I made. It has proved to be one of the most invaluable skills I possess. Not only has it taught me the very useful art of trimming my fringe, it has shaped me as a person while influencing my entire career. From learning how to communicate with anyone, to the craft that has enabled me to earn a living anywhere; even picking up my scissors to cut hair on the beach in Greece. As a carefree 23-year-old on her O.E it paid my way for some great memories, a brilliant tan and life-long friendships along the way. It has also been a skill I have shared with love over the years. From styling my friend’s hair for their weddings and significant birthdays, to more recently, cutting their kid’s hair, while they wrangled babies at home and were just too exhausted to leave the house. Although I did not continue to work in a salon but opted for a career in media, my editing roles have always included beauty writing, with hair advice often central to that. Staying connected to this industry has meant I have worked with some outstanding people and Rodney Wayne is one of them. He has been one of my most significant and constant mentors. Always available and always supportive, he is astonishingly generous with his time and his wisdom. And while he is a man who expects excellence from his team, he helps those around him up the ladder of success with both hands. I was delighted to be one of the very first media to view his new collection and without sounding bias, I truly believe ‘Get Your Game On’ is one of his best yet. You can read all about the motivation behind the collection from his creative team, Richard Kavanagh and Lachlan McPherson, and view behind the scenes images from the shoot in Sydney on page 35. Each look speaks to a lasting trend, and one of the standouts is ‘Low and Tight’. This is evidence that exceptional barbering has become specialised, an art form in many salons. We showcase this skill and the latest trends from barbers at the forefront of this movement from page 76. We investigate the rules when it comes to wearing red-hot colour this summer on page 23. We also present four new salons and two luxury day spas to inspire anyone considering a new business venture. Read expert advice from the owners who have blazed a trail in creating truly unique spaces from page 59. As staunch advocates for safe tanning (despite my regrettable sun worshiping years ago on that beach in Greece), we marvel at how each season St. Tropez never fails to tempt us with exceptional faux bronzers. And finally, we round up the most innovative beauty resolutions; emerging trends set to become game-changers in the world of hair and beauty. We hope this issue offers you some inspiration to help kick-start what is shaping up to be a busy start to the New Year. We wish you a happy and prosperous 2017.
Trudi Brewer
EDI T
Selfie with Rodney Wayne at the recent Rodney Wayne team awards evening.
’S PICKS R O
Lonely Label Daphne bra and brief swimwear.
St. Tropez Gradual Tan.
OPI Nail Lacquer in Lincoln Park After Dark.
ASPAR Rose Hydrating Facial Hydrosol.
Oribe Aprés Beach Wave and Shine Spray.
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No yellow
A BLONDE’S
BEST FRIEND
BLONDE to SILVER hair WITHOUT using COLOUR. IT’S MAGIC IN A BOTTLE. Available from Dateline Imports 0800 169 600 / www.dateline.co.nz / info@dateline.co.nz /Fanola Colour Group NZ
PHOTOGRAPHY De Lorenzo Paradise SS16/17 Novacolor Collection
Hair
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NEW YEAR RESOLUTIONS
Most clients get stuck in a hair rut, and we are not just talking cut and colour. Here is some New Year inspiration.
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Hair | NEW YEAR RESOLUTIONS
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emma
PROTEIN SHOT
gigi
Just as a protein-rich diet keeps the body in peak condition, it will do the same for hair. Used once a week, Kevin Murphy Repair.Me Wash Shampoo and Conditioner revitalises hair, giving back its strength and phenomenal shine, ideal for anyone who uses hot tools or lightens their hair. After just a few weeks you will notice softer and more resilient hair when styling.
2
BANGS ARE BACK
Alexa
We saw Gigi Hadid, Alexa Chung and Emma Stone give in to bangs last year and this year a brow-skimming fringe is a style statement. Teamed with a chic short crop, or a tousled long mane, a chunky fringe that is justabove-the-brows will update any womanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s look. For inspiration, with over two million posts on Instagram, check out #bangs.
C H O C O L AT E M A U V E I S T H E N E W B R U N E T T E New York City hair colourist, Hannah Edelman from Brooklyn hair studio Brush in Hands, (we adore her Instagram account), says the latest colour trend is chocolatemauve. Edelman created this natural-looking mauve by mixing Pravana Vivids direct dyes together. "The darkest brown started with red, yellow and green," she said. "Then I added orange and purple and other random colours until I liked what I saw." This colour was applied in irregular sections, painted onto hair using the Balayage technique. "Even though the colour is unnatural, following the light-dark placement is always a good idea. This is what makes a natural looking unnatural colour."
FOLLOW HANNAH EDELMAN @hannahthepainter
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Is making a comeback. If irons are the only hot tools in your salon, it’s the ideal time to master the art of hot brushing. We’ve been fans of this Silver Bullet Hybrid Ceramic and Ionic Straightening Brush for a few months now. And for those with mid-length hair and rebellious curls, they will never be without it. Smoothing wave and adding body can be achieved in one pass with this brush. But why we like it? Hair is not left looking poker straight – bonus. Over-ironed hair on anyone over 40 is so ageing, and for those clients with super-fine hair, this brush will maintain the smoothness without frying the ends. Start on dry hair, separate wide sections, and smooth from the roots to the ends. It gives the look of a volume blow dry, or you can create loose waves by rolling hair around the brush, holding it for a few seconds, and then release. For stockist details visit www.dateline.co.nz/silver-bullet
michelle
HOT BRUSHING
LO B C U TS
6 7
5
Sienna Miller and Michelle Williams have paved the way for short cute cuts in the past. But now they are wearing a more lob-like relaxed look. Still a hot trend for 2017, bob cuts are ideal for any face shape. With the addition of a slightly longer fringe, this cut makes the eyes and cheekbones pop. And this shape is looking like it will stand the test of time for years to come.
FA N O L A
Is a range of professional colour and retail products made in Italy that has taken the hairdressing world by storm. Their most famous product, No Yellow Shampoo, promises to eliminate yellow cast from any blonde colour – and we can safely report - it is next level. Expect Fanola to become a household name here in New Zealand over the next 12 months. For more information go to www.fanola.com.au For New Zealand stockist call Dateline 0800 169600
DEEP CLEANSE
Just as looking after locks is important, scalp care is right up there. While dry shampoo is an essential in any home care arsenal, deep cleansing is the next thing on the horizon. Will this come in a can you can spritz on hair? Yes, as well as lotions and shampoo designed to rid the scalp of product build-up that accumulates when you skip shampooing. And the secret ingredients are white willow extract and salicylic acid.
PHOTOGRAPHY De Lorenzo Paradise SS16/17 Novacolor Collection, Courtesy of O&M and supplied.
Sienna
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9 Hair | NEW YEAR RESOLUTIONS
G LO B A L CO LO U R For those who crave shine, beautiful glossy global colour is back. Bursting with shimmer, shine and depth, new global colours will be a welcome change from the Balayage techniques we have seen for years now. From rich chocolate to caramel blonde or a burnished ruby red, a global colour this autumn should not to be overlooked.
POWER DRY
Coming soon, and hands down the most powerful dryer you will hold, this year. The Dyson Supersonic Hairdryer, which promises to cut drying time in half, is three times lighter and six times smaller than the average dryer - and so quiet. And what will you need to pay for this technology - around $650.
10 LONG H AIR, D ON’ T C A R E
There’s no in-between when it comes to length this season. It’s either super-short or very long. Sleek and strong are mandatory when wearing length, which is an investment. Leave in conditioners and regular trims will keep this style in top shape.
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RED RULES 23 HEADWAY.NET.NZ
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Hair | RED TRENDS
Traditionally summer is the time to go a few shades lighter, this season we are seeing a rebellion, racy reds are set to make a bold statement. Here’s how to wear this vibrant new hue.
1
BED HEAD TIGI COLOUR TRIP
Hydrating vibrant colour is a trend that is going nowhere. And the latest Bed Head TIGI Colour Trip was designed by the TIGI Creative Team to use backstage. There are 12 electric tones of gentle, semi-permanent colour that contain hydrolyzed keratin and coconut oil to give the most damaged hair strength and stunning shine. TIGI Founder International artistic director Anthony Mascolo says, “Colour has become central to our creative work and it’s in our DNA to take a trip into the unknown and see how far it takes us.” Once we’ve played around and unleashed our creativity, the next step is to invite hairdressers to start experimenting too.” For more colour advice, download the Tigi 24/7 mobile App.
2 BEST FOR BRUNETTES
TIGI have been busy creating colour this month with Custom Collection Brunettes. Our pick is Creative 4/65 Red Mahogany Brown. There are seven new vibrant neutrals, all with a hint of Mahogany, from blonde to brown. These are ideal for those clients who want to edge toward red but in a very conservative way.
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FOLLOW ROSSA JURENAS Jack howard | jackhoward_srh
Hair | RED TRENDS
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TRI-COLOUR
This beautiful colour technique is designed to mimic children’s hair and just as the name suggests, three distinct hair colours are used to create the end result. "If you look at a child's hair, it’s [often] light through the front, a bit darker in the middle, and darkest at the nape," says Jack Howard, a London colourist who is responsible for the ‘babylights’ colouring technique. To recreate this on hair, Howard uses an all-over base colour to make the area around the front of the face lighter than the rest. He then gives the area just below that a dose of colour a quarter to half a shade darker. Finally, he makes the nape a quarter to a half-shade lighter than that. "So many colourists are doing something similar, making parts lighter, so this is just about taking it another step further," says Howard.
Red rules
4
RONZE
5
TAKE CARE
FOLLOW ROSSA JURENAS Rossa Jurenas | rossajurenas
While not an application technique, this new shade developed in 2016 became a favourite for many. Ronze (red, bronze) brings together a mixture of extremely flattering shades to create an overall softness. "Ronze tones are red and bronze mixed together to create a soft amber look, or even the beautiful tones of eggplant," explains North American Schwarzkopf colourist, Rossa Jurenas. "These tones will create texture in the hair; especially with covering up last year's colours, there will be many levels of texture with these rich and powerful tones."
Red is very similar to blonde locks; UV rays are not kind to this colour family. To refresh the brightest of mahogany to the coolest of copper try these vibrant colour freshers.
1
TREAT YOURSELF
Kevin Murphy Staying.Alive is the mother of all leave-in treatments, packed with antioxidant-rich olive leaf and ivy extract, rosehip oil and honey, to give hair the softest feel and mirror-like shine.
7
DISCOVER YOUR WILD SIDE
The latest Italian hair colour to hit salons is WildColor. With 71 natural shades in eight different tones and 90 reflect shades, finding a customized red won’t be an issue. Infused with Argan, macadamia olive and jojoba oils this is one colour that offers shine and amazing reflect from this mega-size 180ml tube. Headquarters Hair.
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3
1 Davines Colour Conditioner. 2 Juuce Love Colour Conditioner. 3 De Lorenzo Nova Fusion Intense Colour Care Shampoo Ruby Red. 25 HEADWAY.NET.NZ
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NAILING THE SHADE Ensuring you get the right red for your skin tone is an integral part of the decision to shift to a warm colour palette. Felicity Collier from Cocoon Hair Design in Timaru offers her thoughts on who suits what.
What skin colouring is best suited to these warm shades? Our colour palettes are so intermixable now, so hairdressers can tailor warm shades to suit any skin tone. Also, using colour contour techniques, we can work with skin tones and face shapes to balance the right amount of warmth with cool hues.
What is your favourite colour cocktail for achieving an on trend copper or red overtone in the hair? My favourite looks are 'Colour Melts'. Especially copper mahogany roots melted with Joico duo lights copper and butterscotch ends. You get gorgeous hues of peach, apricot and butterscotch, which look yummy with rich depth at the roots. Also, multi-dimensional vivid shades in the same colour family are on the rise but using different base levels to create shadow roots and colour melts in vibrant tangerine and sunset orange.
And how do you keep red looking fresh?
felicity
PHOTOGRAPHY Hair by Angelo Seminara for Davines using Mask With Vibrachrom & supplied.
9
Colours have come a long way and are much less likely to fade. Collier insists on recommending colour-enhancing conditioner, which promises to brighten colour in-between visits. “I never push hair too light or bright; that way the reds and coppers hold for ages. And everyone must use Joico Color Infuse Red Shampoo or Conditioner - it keeps red or copper colours lush.”
THE SHINE FACTOR THE NEWS IN RED
Whether it’s a dash of copper blended into a pre-lightened blonde, or a brighter bolt of mahogany, red is certainly making a statement this season. And the best news is that it can be tailored to suit any client. FOLLOW VIOLET SAINSBURY When it comes to looking at what shades of red are Violet Sainsbury | miss_violet reigning supreme, Violet Sainsbury Moroccanoil’s International Education Manager for Asia Pacific offers her thoughts. “The summer hair colour hues are some of my favourite every year, in particular copper reds. I am quite partial to a red of a six level and below and always with a yellow orange base undertone. I also love Balayage on red and copper hair.” Sainsbury says copper is taking centre stage of this red revolution. “Copper is hot again this summer. There are lots of coppers coming showing in homewares, interiors and fabrics. In the salon we have been inspired by this trend and are translating it into personalised colours for our clients.” Closer to home, Wellington stylist Liz Devine of Sadal & Co says her clients are warming up their Balayage with the addition of red. “We're noticing in-salon and on the Wellington streets, Balayage in soft coppers, caramels and golds, and also warm chocolate mocha tones with multiple rose shades.“ And it’s also being seen on the runway. “The SS17 runways are showing soft natural tones like vintage coppers, strawberry blondes and a variety of warm pastel shades - think soft peachy corals and dusky rose-pinks,” says Devine.
“The best way to ensure colour retention is to treat your hair to nourishing products, particularly leavein conditioners. Violet Sainsbury says if you’re out in the sun or water, here are some tips that will promise to keep your hair as healthy as it can be and your colour staying put. “For extra shiny hair, try rinsing it in cold water which smooths and seals the cuticle. Be sure not to over-dry with heat and finish with a little spritz of shine spray or a few drops of healing oil.” Our secret weapon? Moroccanoil Weightless Hydrating Mask, used once a week.
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AMAZONIA
PHB (Professional Hair Brands) is a New Zealand owned company that is dedicated to supplying New Zealand with premium brands that lead the market in product performance, innovation, ethicality and sustainability. Our mission is to provide professional salons with healthier, cleaner, greener products for our clients and our environment. Our journey is ongoing and we are constantly looking to improve and find the best performing quality brands. We are New Zealandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fastest growing professional hair care distributor and we deliver our services with innovation and style, always representing current trends and technology. Our sales & education team is located throughout New Zealand. We really pride ourselves on providing an unparalleled level of customer service, technical training and support with the aim of always exceeding the expectations of our customers and consumers. We provide ongoing in-salon training and support for all of our brands. Colour workshops, foiling techniques and seasonal trends are just some of what we have to offer with our extensive and exemplary in salon training plan. Outside the salon we have seen huge success with our platform artists showcased throughout the country. We strongly believe that a partnership with your salon will greatly benefit your business. For more information about PHB brands and products, or to enquire about becoming a salon stockist, please contact us on 07 847 8350 or 0800 652 570.
Hair | CHANGE MAKING
Change making By SERVILLES CREATIVE TEAM
PHOTOGRAPHER: Andrew O Toole. MAKEUP: Virginia Carde. STYLING: Victoria Harvey
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Headway | PROMOTION
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The new season Rodney Wayne campaign is a knockout. Trudi Brewer caught up with the team who created the looks, and the subliminal message behind ‘Get Your Game On’.
Creative Director.
HOW DID YOU TRANSLATE THE CONCEPT OF ‘GET YOUR GAME ON’ INTO THE FINISHED LOOKS? For me this campaign is all about embracing the ideal of individuality and empowerment through beauty. Showcasing the latest trends in hair fashion, with looks inspired by the runways of the world, and today’s rebel youtth beauty icons.
WHAT’S YOUR FAVOURITE LOOK? That’s a tough question. That’s like asking a parent which is their favourite child. I would say my personal aesthetic leans toward the brunette. I’m a sucker for that effortless texture and a curved fringe.
It’s about feeling like you’re ready to face anything; whether you embrace the feline ferociousness of wild curls, or more subtle movement. Or if you’re ready to embrace the preppy punk inner 70s, or you prefer a gender fluid shape that is more utilitarian and practical. And if you want to shout or whisper with your colour look, this campaign speaks to all New Zealanders.
ANY STRESSFUL MOMENTS YOU CAN SHARE? This was our most ambitious shoot to date. Producing an entire stills shoot as well as a television campaign with four different models, and all the detailed elements of production within two weeks of getting back from New York fashion week was pretty full on. Needless to say we had a lot of preproduction conference calls, early morning starts and very late finishes.
WHAT ARE YOU MOST PROUD OF WITH THIS CAMPAIGN?
WHO IS THIS CAMPAIGN TARGETED AT?
I think what I love most about this campaign is that it is at once playful and powerful, luxurious and effortless. It really feels like it completely embodies the Rodney Wayne brand. Not to mention we got to work with some of the world’s best creative talents and produce some incredible imagery.
I think there’s something for everyone in this campaign. You know how great you feel when you have a good hair day and for me, this is what ‘Get your Game On’ is all about.
In summer, longer daylight hours means more time outside, which means more exposure
Net Result.
Richard Kavanagh
Low and Tight
C
reating a new season campaign needs to encapsulate the trends and inspire clients to walk through the door. Deciding how to do that takes a team of talented stylists, a makeup artist and top photographer. Here’s what goes into a campaign of this calibre.
Golden Blast
GET YOUR GAME ON
BEST SUMMER HAIR TIP?
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Hair | Q&A
to UV rays and wind. This in turn means your colour may need to be refreshed more regularly. Invest in a great hair care regime, including leave in treatments, to help protect your hair and reduce the time between salon visits. This will keep you feeling on top of your game and your hair looking its best.
Lachlan McPherson Advertising agency.
HOW DID YOU COME UP WITH THE CONCEPT ‘GET YOUR GAME ON’? Before we started on the concepts, we spent a lot of time talking to Rodney Wayne clients and getting an understanding of what is important to them. We wanted to learn a bit more about what they wanted from a service and what they look for in a salon. We also looked at the psychology behind what it feels like to have great hair and how the rest of the world reacts to you based on the look of your hair.
PHOTOGRAPHY supplied
WHERE DID YOU GET THAT INSPIRATION? The way you look can have a big effect on the way you feel. When you look great, you feel great. We were intrigued by the way people make quick assumptions about you based on your hair. Healthy, well-styled hair can lead people to believe that you are more capable of completing a task, and may be a better candidate for employment opportunities. In social situations, it can draw people towards you. So if you want to get a head start in all kinds of competitive situations, it is worth
WHO IS THIS CAMPAIGN TARGETED AT?
“Creating a new season campaign needs to encapsulate the trends and inspire clients to walk through the door. ”
Rodney Wayne has a loyal following of people who are fashion-savvy, and we like to keep them excited about where the brand is heading. In broader terms, we are reaching out to style-conscious people who want to look and feel fabulous.
WHAT WAS THE BEST PART OF SHOOTING THIS CAMPAIGN?
WHAT DO YOU THINK IS THE BIGGEST CHANGE IN THIS CAMPAIGN FROM OTHERS IN THE PAST?
This is a great industry to be involved in and the passion and dedication to this craft lifted the team to another level. The best part of this campaign was collaborating with a team of incredibly talented people. First, Richard Kavanagh is one of the best stylists in the world, and he brings great energy and experience that comes from styling at fashion weeks around the globe. The fashion photographer, Steven Chee, shoots covers for Vogue magazine and has a way of capturing the true beauty and personality of the models. Makeup artist, Angie Barton, helped us translate the idea into the perfect look for each of the models. And stylist Kelvin Harries worked wonders on the wardrobe. Then top commercial film director Melanie Bridge from The Sweet Shop brought the looks to life for the screen. It was such a buzz being on location seeing the team working their magic.
We wanted to take it up to the next level. Not just in the styling but also in the way we delivered the collection. For the first time, we also filmed the collection for broadcast television with a script that brings to life a set of beliefs that are central to the Rodney Wayne brand.
The Rodney Wayne brand is built on a belief that everyone has the right to look and feel beautiful. I am thrilled with the way the team brought it to life through the looks in this campaign. And I love the TV commercial.
ensuring you have a hair look that works. Naturally, you’d want a great hair stylist looking after your hair. When we started to work on the campaign concept, we realised Rodney Wayne was recognised in 2016 as the most awarded salon at the L’Oréal Style and Colour Trophy Awards. That all led to the concept, ‘GET YOUR GAME ON’. We see it as a kind of rally cry to motivate people to look fabulous in any situation.
WHAT ARE YOU MOST PROUD OF?
BEHIND THE SCENES
At the shoot, Richard Kavanagh and the team at work PHOTOGRAPHER: Steven Chee. MAKEUP ARTIST: Angie Barton. STYLIST: Kelvin Harries. PROPS: Lisa Javelin. MODELS: Kelsey @Chic. Emma @Work. Abbie @IMG. Kevin @London MGMT.
FOLLOW RODNEY WAYNE Rodney Wayne | @therodneywayne HEADWAY.NET.NZ 36
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BONDING THROUGH COLOUR
TIP: pH-Bonder system is ideal used with foil highlights, Balayage, cream bleach, colour gloss and as a nourishing treatment.
Leading the charge backstage in styling, Redken is also now one to watch at the back basin. Trudi Brewer discovers the new pH-Bonder is a game-changer in the world of professional hair colour.
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rofessional hair colouring is a science and Redken are devoted to minimising the stress on clients hair with their latest innovation. From lightening to brightening, pHBonder is turning heads. A complete solution for helping to preserve the integrity of the hair bonds during any professional colour service pH-Bonder is a gift for colourists. Now there is a threestep system designed to protect against breakage while improving the elasticity of hair. It offers clients the freedom to be more adventurous with colour choices, and ensures that hair looks and feels superb. To better understand how this service works, we asked Redken ambassadors Mana Dave and Jen Morgan to explain: 37 HEADWAY.NET.NZ
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Jen Morgan
Mana Dave
Morgan & Morgan Urban Retreat in Auckland.
Blaze Salon in Auckland.
HOW DOES PH-BONDER WORK ON THE HAIR? pH-Bonder is a unique system that helps protect the bonds in your hair during technical services and keep the hair fibre strong from within. It strengthens, reducing breakage, and smooths.
WHAT IS SPECIAL ABOUT THIS SERVICE? Its ability to prevent damage to the hair during a colour service is a game-changer for colourists and stylists alike. Our clients and team are now choosing exciting colour options, safe in the knowledge there is no risk of damage.
#1 Bond Protecting Additive is a liquid that's added directly into your colour mix. It's dispensed with a small syringe allowing for accuracy. Once processing is complete, rinse colour before applying #2 Fiber Restorative Pre-Wash Concentrate over towel-dried hair. Allow this to stay on for 10 minutes and then rinse before using the appropriate shampoo and conditioner. It's as easy as that. Clients can maintain hair at home with #3 Post-Service Protector.
WHAT’S SPECIAL ABOUT THIS SERVICE?
IS IT DESIGNED EXCLUSIVELY FOR BLONDE COLOURING?
It helps to promote the integrity of the hair bonds during any technical service. I love the fact that it allows someone like myself, with a very dark natural base, to rock a clean white blonde for summer, and have hair that feels better than before it was coloured.
We offer pH-Bonder with all our colour services - not just with blondes - as it helps to repair and rejoin damaged bonds within any hair type or texture.
IS IT DESIGNED EXCLUSIVELY FOR BLONDE COLOURING?
ARE THERE ANY RESTRICTIONS ON USING THIS SERVICE?
No. It's a great tool for all colour services ranging from demi-permanent through to lightening. Anytime you want to improve the integrity of the hair during a colour service, it should be an option that you consider.
Not really. We use it for all our colour services as a way to ensure the hair is not just protected but repaired. However, if hair is already damaged or in a weakened state, pH-Bonder is not a cure and caution should be taken with colouring challenged hair. In this case, we would ask the client to have a series of stand-alone pH-Bonder treatments prior to a colour service.
WHAT’S YOUR BEST TIP WHEN USING PH-BONDER? We offer the stand-alone pH-Bonder service to improve the health of hair. And have designed treatment combinations using pH-Bonder with Chemistry or pH-Bonder with Heatcure, which are transforming the internal strength and condition of hair.
PHOTOGRAPHY supplied
HOW DO YOU USE PHBONDER?
WILL IT HELP COLOUR LAST DURING SUMMER AND HOW? It will improve colour retention, ideal during summer. When hair bonds are strong, you have a strong internal structure in which to place colour, which prevents fading. Colours will look shiny and the hair will feel softer.
WHAT’S YOUR BEST TIP WHEN USING PH-BONDER?
WHAT IS UNIQUE ABOUT PH-BONDER?
I love to use it as a treatment - it makes hair feel like silk - and that's no easy feat on my hair, which is naturally wavy. My recipe: mix 7mls of #1 Bond Protecting Additive with 45mls of water together in an applicator bottle and then apply to dry hair. Continue processing as you would normally. Your hair will feel amazing.
It’s super easy to use. The measuring is simple and there is no need to adjust your developer strength, so there is nothing extra to calculate in the formulation. It works perfectly with all our Redken colours, and we don’t need to adjust timing or make any other changes to the colour process. As a colourist it is better than anything we have used - I can’t live without it.
It's designed to be used with the Redken colour range. It gives me confidence when I'm colouring in salon that I'm maintaining best practice and following manufacturer’s instructions. For me and my team, I feel like it's a colour guarantee.
WHAT IS UNIQUE ABOUT PH-BONDER?
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Hair | HUSTLE
HUSTLE
By NATHAN CHERRINGTON
HAIR: Nathan Cherrington PHOTOGRAPHY: Andrew Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Toole FASHION STYLING: Emma Cotterill MAKE UP: Rachel Montgomery
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Holiday style
Papamoa
Find out where top stylists go to get some downtime. By Trudi Brewer
O
wning a busy salon requires scheduled holidays and summer is the ideal time to take a break. We spoke to three busy salon owners to find out where they go to relax and recharge over the holiday season.
Nic Apaapa of Nicholas Paul Hair Design in Hobsonville, Auckland. Summer is the perfect season to take off and head north or south. And for Nic Apaapa and his partner, that is the attraction of hitting the road in their campervan.
SUMMER IS A TIME TO KICK BACK AND RELAX. WHAT’S YOUR ULTIMATE HOLIDAY DESTINATION? Being able to freedom camp close to the beach is always great. I have family in Tauranga, so it’s always great to stop at Papamoa Beach when we are there.
WHAT DO YOU LOVE MOST ABOUT HAVING A CAMPERVAN? It's get in and go. We have the van packed with everything we need, so we can simply get in and take off. When we first bought the campervan, we spent a few weekends reconfiguring the kitchen so we could also use the side doors. I did worry that my handyman skills weren’t up to the challenge – but it’s perfect now.
WHAT IS THE ONE THING THAT HAS SURPRISED YOU ABOUT THIS SORT OF HOLIDAY? The simplicity. Being able to pull up, climb in the back and we are set. Watching campers assemble and dismantle their tents seems arduous and pretty stressful. Then the thought of unpacking once you get home takes all the fun out of holidaying. Now when we get home, we remove our washing and lock up. It's the simplest, most laid-back holiday I have ever had. #vanlife rocks.
WHERE DO YOU LOVE TO WAKE UP? On the east coast, with the sunrise. Some of the views we have woken up to, you couldn't buy. Papamoa Beach has some freedom camping spots where you wake up looking at the water.
FAVOURITE PLACE TO SIGHTSEE? Watching sunsets or sunrises have been a large part of our travels; seeing that moment just before the sun goes down at the end of the day, and the first glimpse of it in the morning is simply breathtaking. New Zealand is small enough to see it all and large enough to always find new places to go.
WHAT’S A GREAT INSIDER’S TIP WHEN IN THE CAMPERVAN? We always keep a Nespresso machine on
board the van, indulgent but worth it. And we take the laptop, which is ideal for movie watching if it's too wet to go exploring.
WHAT DO YOU ALWAYS PACK? I can't say the van is ever empty of good wine and fresh produce. We call into regional markets whereever we are to stock up on local produce.
WHAT ‘S ALWAYS ON THE MENU? Breakfast is always bacon, eggs and avocado. I'm lucky enough that my partner is a chef, so I don't worry about what we are going to eat.
FAVOURITE SUMMER TIPPLE? Wine is always on board, but we have been known to crack out a few cocktails on clear nights. We are always celebrating how clever we were to buy a campervan, so there is usually a bottle of Veuve Clicquot in the fridge.
WHAT IS YOUR BEST HOLIDAY TIP? Don't over pack. The first few months we over packed and hardly used anything we took. Now we have the van packed with everything we need, except fresh food, which is a quick raid of the pantry or a stop into local places while on the road.
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Hair | HOLIDAY DESTINATION
Karl and Danelle Radel from Klone Hair in Dunedin. Packing light, sleeping in the shade and being with their four children makes a family holiday at Kaiteriteri, Nelson an idyllic beach break.
SUMMER IS A TIME TO KICK BACK AND RELAX. WHAT’S YOUR ULTIMATE HOLIDAY DESTINATION? It would be Nelson, especially Kaiteriteri beach. We love the combination of awesome weather, water you can swim in all day, and being in an area where you can buy fresh seasonal fruit and vegetables.
WHAT MAKES A GREAT HOLIDAY? For us, a summer break is a chance to unwind and recharge the batteries after the busiest period of the hairdressing year. It’s
nice when time is irrelevant, and you can spend days hanging out with your kids and another family.
WHAT WAS YOUR MOST MEMORABLE DESTINATION? It would be Tahiti. We would go back there tomorrow if we could. It looks like volcanos sticking out of the ocean as you fly in. The weather is superb, and swimming or kayaking in the lagoons are like being in an amazing tropical fish tank. Then there is the awesome food and cocktails, the most amazing night skies.
BEST READ ON HOLIDAY? Favourite read is the New Zealand Herald on my iPhone; I am not a book reader, but I do like to keep up with what’s happening in the world.
Kaiteriteri
FAVOURITE WAY TO RELAX? Our favourite way to relax is playing golf or fishing or sleeping in the shade.
WHAT’S YOUR BEST INSIDER TIP WHEN HOLIDAYING WITH KIDS? Don’t stress. As a family with four kids, we are always mega-prepared and organised. And take your time; there is no need to rush to get to places.
WHAT DO YOU ALWAYS PACK? Golf clubs and a phone charger.
WHAT ‘S ALWAYS ON THE MENU? Our menu is BBQ and salads and maybe fresh berries and ice cream for dessert.
FAVOURITE SUMMER TIPPLE? Cold sparkling water (Antipodes is good), and a cold beer with that BBQ. HEADWAY.NET.NZ 46
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Hahei Steven and Mimi Kelly
SUMMER IS A TIME TO KICK BACK AND RELAX. WHAT’S YOUR ULTIMATE HOLIDAY DESTINATION? When summer arrives here in New Zealand… why would you go anywhere else? Our family has a bach in Hahei, Coromandel, and with Cathedral Cove just around the corner, I honestly doubt that you could find a more beautiful spot.
WHAT DO YOU LOVE MOST ABOUT THAT SUMMER BREAK? The salon is closed for two weeks; that means we all get to be with our family. Steven and I have two young girls. We will go away for a few days together, and then it’s Hahei with my dad, brother, our two nephews - and the dogs. A holiday is all about being together.
WHERE IS YOUR FAVOURITE HOLIDAY DESTINATION? Our favourite holiday so far was a month in New York City. It was ages ago now but was incredible.
WHAT MAKES A GREAT HOLIDAY? When you can be present and 100 percent in the moment. Tie up as many loose ends as possible before you go away so you have a clear headspace and enjoy yourself.
BEST READ ON HOLIDAY? Steven reads the Liverpool football blogs as it's the middle of the season for his beloved team. And I read the books I have requested from Santa that year. We don’t have gossip magazines in the salon but I love a good NW or People to read at the beach, and then I get everyone involved in solving the crossword.
We plan every getaway with Nico in mind; he is our boy and family member, it's not the same without him. If were going off shore and just can’t take him with us, we ask a good friend to house-sit, and then we can relax and not miss him so much.
WHAT DO YOU ALWAYS PACK?
FAVOURITE WAY TO RELAX?
Togs, hat, jandals, loose and comfy clothes. No belts and no high heels.
Morning beach walks on Hahei beach with our Shiba Inu Nico and dad's chocolate Labrador, Daisy, and meeting all the other owners and dogs. I see my favourite pooches that show up every year. Steven and I try to steal a couple of hours away together when the girls are busy with their cousins. We head to the beach and relax as a couple, and that's amazing.
Dads BBQ breakfasts, which sets us up for the day. Lunch at Colenso Cafe in Whenuakite; we order chicken liver pate and summer berry pavlova and eat under the orange trees. And then feed and pat their two donkeys. Then I always have to buy a little something from the giftware shop.
TRAVELLING CAN BE FRAUGHT, ANY STRESSFUL MOMENTS? Flying to Dunedin to visit Stevens parents, pregnant with Sadie, and Nina our first daughter was 18-months-old, and we took the dog Nico too. We arrive at the airport laden down with suitcases, presents, porta cot, car seat, buggy and a stressed-out dog in a crate. We had laughed before we cried, stating this is what Brad and Angelina's life must be like. Never again.
WHAT’S YOUR BEST INSIDER TIP WHEN HOLIDAYING WITH PETS? If you're not flying, then take them with you.
WHAT ‘S ALWAYS ON THE MENU?
FAVOURITE SUMMER TIPPLE? Hendricks gin and tonic with cucumber slices. It's so refreshing, and Steven likes the Craft Beer from the Coromandel Brewing Company.
WHAT WAS YOUR MOST MEMORABLE DESTINATION? A long time ago as an engagement present to ourselves (we have now been married for 14 years), we took a road trip, with a tent around the South Island. The trip was incredible and an exceptional sunset in Hokitika is one of my most beautiful memories.
PHOTOGRAPHY Shutterstock and supplied
from Killer Hair in Auckland For the Killer hair team, heading to the Coromandel for summer is both relaxing and time to catch up with special family members. Mimi Kelly shares the best-kept secret on New Zeland's east coast.
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AIR
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Hair | AIR- DRYING
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ELEVEN I WANT BODY VOLUME SPRAY For adding lift and boosting volume, shake well to activate the powder in the bottle and then spray onto the roots. You will love the instant thickness and texture. Use on dry or wet hair.
Encouraging natural wave and embracing a more relaxed style for summer is not only a trend, it's also so convenient when the heat rises. Here's our pick of nourishing oils and lotions for every day of the week.
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DE LORENZO ELEMENTS SEA SWELL VOLUMISING LOTION:
Enough volume to hold your natural curl, while antihumidity ingredients help to define curl and prevent frizz.
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DANCOLY ARGAN OIL SUN PROTECTION SPRAY: A UV protection spray, enriched with refreshing peppermint and hydrating hyaluronic acid, jojoba oil and argania oil. It seals in moisture and locks out the punishing sun and surf.
6 2 DAVINES SU/HAIR MILK:
With the convenience and lightness of a spray and nourishment of a cream. The UVA and UVB filters will protect hair all summer.
ORIBE RUN-THROUGH DETANGLING PRIMER: A nourishing detangler, that allows you to comb through knotty hair while offering heat styling protection and incredible shine.
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MOROCCANOIL FRIZZ CONTROL:
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Frizz is exasperated come summer. This hard working spray tames dry, wavy hair, thanks to the argan oil and vitamin E Use in damp or dry hair.
KEVIN MURPHY UN-TANGLED LEAVE-IN-CONDITIONER: Australian fruit extracts hydrate and detangle, just spritz onto wet hair and hit the beach. HEADWAY.NET.NZ 48
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Headway | PROMOTION
ESSENTIAL BLENDS The demand for nature-inspired hair care and colour is insatiable. Affinageâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s answer to this need is Essential Blends and Essential Oils; a range of ammonia, alcohol, paraben and cruelty-free colour, and nature-inspired hair care. Along with the obvious chemicalfree benefits, the colour offers an express processing time, brilliant grey coverage on fine hair, leaves no staining around the hairline and is enriched with anti-ageing ingredients to nourish both the hair and scalp. Essential Oils completes the salon experience with a range of shampoos, conditioners and treatments that contain natural plant proteins and vitamin C ideal for strengthening ageing hair. www.datelineimports.co.nz
Hair news
By TRUDI BREWER
Wipe away colour staining Glide have created a helpful hair wipe infused with shea butter and sea salt; a convenient way to remove colour staining gently from the skin. The sea salt assists in the removal process, while the shea butter, sourced from the African shea tree, nourishes and moisturises. For stockist and a sample sachet call Glide on 02 8730 8847.
MALIBU C SWIMMERS WELLNESS For beach babes, take care of your locks by naturally eliminating chlorine, bromine, copper, calcium, lime, or salts found in salt and pool water. Not only does this hair care remove nasty chemical build-up, it lifts that green overcast and removes the odour left by chlorinated water. And if that is not enough it nourishes and strengthens hair to its core. For stockists visit www.datelineimports.co.nz
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Limitless JUST LANDED Fans of the Wet Brush will be thrilled with the latest new launch of Naturals in dark and light woods. Dateline Imports.
No Limits is music to most colourists ears when creating a new look. And new from Organic Colour Systems are two new shades, Silver Grey and Hot Pink. Both are PPD and PTD-free semi-permanent colours that are super versatile. From beautiful pastels to intense vivids, they can be used alone or added to permanent shades to boost the vibrancy of the colour – the only limits are your imagination. For stockist details call 080012125050.
HOT STYLING Redken’s Heat Styling Collection has had a face lift to include the latest buzz ingredient in heat styling beeswax. The tiny wax particles melt on the hair once exposed to heat, sealing the cuticle, reducing frizz and locking in your style. This gives you the ability to change your look with no washing required – it’s genius. There are four products in the range.
WHAT'S NEW WITH DRY SHAMPOO For a quick fix of dry shampoo after a day at the beach, Eleven Give Me Clean Hair Dry Shampoo is a keeper. Boosting volume and creating texture while removing oil and product buildup; it’s ideal for travel and guaranteed to have locks looking their best all summer long. Kevin Murphy are already famous for making brilliant dry shampoo and their latest DOO.OVER, adds volume, texture and lasting hold. Designed to revive a blow dry or extend the life of second-day hair, it offers an instant ‘hair do’ in a can. “One of my favourite hair trends is the return to some of the shapes and textures of the late 1960s and early 1970s - softer looking styles with volume and movement. I’ve always been fascinated by the volume that powder can achieve, but wanted a spray version that could be used anywhere, anytime. From this concept, DOO.OVER was born,” says Kevin Murphy. The key ingredients are tapioca starch and patchouli oil. Murphy’s how to tip: Shake well. Spray lightly and evenly from roots to mid-lengths and rub or brush through for an instantaneous ‘doo over’. For every can of DOO.OVER sold, a financial contribution will be made to help reduce global carbon emissions. The Kevin Murphy brand donates funds to Al Gore’s ‘The Climate Reality Project,’ as well as the ‘Australian Conservation Foundation.’
COLOUR TRIP Veteran stylist and International Artistic Director and founder of TIGI, Anthony Mascolo, has created a range of new semi-permanent colours that range from deep blue and green to red, yellow, pink and violet. The TIGI Bed Head Colour is the latest cream gel colour turning heads. Built to last twenty shampoos, the vibrant results and intense shine provide a range of formulas that makes hair smoother, softer and much more manageable. The collection allows the stylist to create bold, bright hues, and offer more commercial shades to cater to every client’s needs. “Colour has become central to our creative work; it’s in our DNA to take a trip into the unknown and see how far it will take us,” Mascolo shared with a group of journalists at the launch late last year. “Once we’ve played around and unleashed our creativity, the next step is to invite hairdressers to start experimenting too,” says Mascolo. HEADWAY.NET.NZ 50
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Hair | NEWS
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ing in 201 m Co
Looking to add some shimmer to your colour this summer? Joico Color Intensity Metallic Muse collection, in shades of Moonstone, Violet, Bronze, Mauve Quartz and Pewter offer just that. This multidimensional range of shades, from cool or warm pastels can be mixed and blended with ease. Check out Joico Global Artist Ricardo Santiago, a platform artist and educator for Joico’s JoiColor System, crisscross color-melt technique, a seamless gradation of intense colour that melts both vertically and horizontally.
BUYER BEWARE Cost is often a motivator for many women when it comes to purchasing hair and beauty online. However many don’t realise the product could have an expired shelf life, be adulterated, discontinued or even counterfeit. Matthew Eastlake, Sales Director, for Sabre Corporation, the exclusive hair care distributor for the Joico brand in New Zealand says; “At Joico, we always recommend to purchase the correct care maintenance program for your hair, which only your hairdresser can recommend for you. It’s important that you are purchasing the correct products to ensure longevity of your colour as well as optimal hair preservation. Purchasing from a unauthorised salon is a gamble. You never know what you will get.” WHAT YOU CAN DO: • If you see Joico products for sale outside of a professional salon, or have been solicited by a suspect diverter, immediately contact info@sabre-group.com • Educate your clients, and make sure they get an in-salon recommendation from a salon professional. WHAT CLIENTS NEED TO KNOW: • The quality of Joico products is only guaranteed when purchased from an authorised Joico salon partner. • Joico products purchased through unauthorized retail outlets can have an expired shelf life, be adulterated, discontinued or even counterfeit.
SUNLIGHTS BALAYAGE The latest way to give hair a sun-kissed look is the brainchild of hairdresser, educator Candy Shaw, the creator of Sunlights Professionnel Balayage Lightener. Fondly known as the Balay Box, it has all the tools required to create seamless, stunninglooking Balayage. After thirty years working as a stylist and nearly two years of intense R & D, including thousands of test applications in her salon, Jamison Shaw Hairdressers launched Sunlights in 2014, and it's now available here. Shaw's dream was a lightening kit that could achieve extraordinary lifts, quickly, without compromising the condition of hair. Shaw says “Sunlights is equivalent to the ‘little black dress’ in your closet. Or to a golfer, it would be like adding the latest club to their bag. Sunlights was designed as a ‘go to’ product that will significantly increase a stylist’s confidence and colour business and leave their clients wanting more.” Sunlights is a kaolin, or clay based, lightener, that conditions the hair while performing the lightening Balayage process, along with all the tools you need to create a naturallooking colour. For stockist enquires go to www.dateline.co.nz FOLLOW CANDY SHAW @thebalaylama
PHOTOGRAPHY PHOTOGRAPHY De Lorenzo Paradise SS16/17 Novacolor Collection and supplied.
Intense colour
Coming soon...the new innovative online photographic and session styling program OVER EXPOSED by Sara Allsop, in conjunction with Schwarzkpf Professional. Learn what it takes to be a great session stylist in an online video format, or oneon-one practical photographic sessions over the 9-month period. Contact Schwarzkopf Professional’s Education Hotline on 0800 500 515 for more details.
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Hair | Q & A
STRAIGHT F ROM THE AMAZON The latest buzz in hair straightening is a natural range of products found in Brazil.
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n today’s hair-conscious world, different methods of hair straightening have been under fire. There’s been a tremendous amount of miss-information and most women think in order to achieve straight, beautiful hair you have to apply harsh chemicals for it to stay that way. Hair straighteners are not always the best choice either, some damage hair leaving it coarse, frizzy and dry. Argila Amazonia have released an all natural straightening system that produces effective and longlasting results, proven to enhance hair’s health.
WHAT IS ARGILA AMAZONIA? Argila Amazonia is a revolutionary hair-straightening system that provides lasting results. Using all-natural ingredients from the Amazon, such as White Argila Clay and Murumuru Oil, Argila Amazonia leaves hair smooth and silky soft. Pure, rare and rich in nutrients, White Argila Clay is the active ingredient in this groundbreaking system. It contains minerals that enhance hair’s health, such as magnesium, copper, zinc, aluminium, potassium and iron.
HOW IS THIS DIFFERENT FROM OTHER METHODS OF HAIR STRAIGHTENING? Argilatherapy products work on a cellular level, allowing for deep restoration without damaging the core DNA or the hair. There are no chemicals or toxic agents that can damage hair’s health, as the products contain all-natural ingredients from the Amazon. Argila Amazonia formulations are free of formaldehyde, parabens, ammonia, dyes or any in the same vein.
PHOTOGRAPHY Shutterstock and supplied
HOW LONG DOES THE TREATMENT LAST? The result lasts four months, depending on the type and the texture of the hair. Individual application ensures outstanding results on all hair types.
Murumuru Sealer Protection and Shine Spray.
WHAT ARE THE KEY NATURAL INGREDIENTS USED IN ARGILA AMAZONIA AND WHAT DO THEY DO? Amazonian White Argila Clay White Argila Clay comes from an island in Brazil called Marajo. The climate leads to the foundation of White Argila Clay, found exclusively on the island. The clay forms through the decomposition of certain rocks over a period of thousands of years. Its rich in minerals and metals such as titanium, magnesium, copper , zinc, aluminium, calcium, lithium, iron and trace elements. This one of a kind clay is extremely beneficial to human health.
Murumuru Oil Murumuru oil offers numerous advantages to our skin and hair as it’s a highly effective emollient and moisturiser. It helps hair recover from loss of moisture and regain its natural elasticity. Murumuru oil is a powerful, nourishing anti-frizz oil.
Argila Amazonia – Argilatherapy Argilatherapy’s principal function is to remove toxins and impurities, allowing the full reconstruction of hair follicles. The healing power of White Argila Clay combines with the rich fatty acids present in Murumuru Oil to create a powerful defence against the chemical and environmental damage on hair. Available from www.phb.net.nz
Argila a m a zo nia
WHAT’S THE PROCESS OF THE ARGILA AMAZONIA SYSTEM? The unique hair straightening system comes with four products; Detoxifier Pretreatment Shampoo, Argila Activator Straightening Cream Solution, Argila Smooth Prolonging Mask and the
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Hair | HYBRID
Hybrid By MUK HAIRCARE
HAIRSTYLING: Clive Allwright for muk Haircare. COLOUR: Lia Mei for muk Haircare. www.mukhair.com
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Hair | HYBRID
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Hair | HYBRID
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Chere Cherie
When Alex Wirz-Dunbar chose her salon location, it was the old school charm and owning a piece of Christchurch history that saw her sign on the dotted line. Trudi Brewer takes a tour.
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Hair | CHERE CHERIE
S
tarting a business is hard work. But to create a luxury salon in shaky Christchurch takes hard work and commitment. Meet Alex Wirz Dunbar and her new baby.
How and why did you choose the location? My husband (and business partner) Brian called me up to say he had found a space. We had decided to buy a house first, before pursuing a salon, however as soon as we laid eyes on it, we knew it was the one. It has a combination of old-school charm (that is hard to find), and as one of the few iconic stores left, it's part of Christchurch history. We felt it was in the right inner-city location and the existing features suited us perfectly we couldn't say no.
Where did you get your ideas for the fit-out? Anyone who knows me knows I am a research junkie. I've been stockpiling ideas for years.
What was your vision for this space? Something light and airy, comfortable and clean. There was always a need for greenery too. We wanted to create a space where the client feels comfortable and relaxed and not jammed in like a sardine. We want to offer our clients a luxurious and serene innercity,salon experience.
Where did you source the interiors? We sourced both locally and internationally. Our interior fit-out was undertaken by MKS (Mackay Kitchens & Stairs) and Aitken Engineering, who created the steel frames at the entrance, and are both Christchurchbased companies. We imported our six styling chairs from Maletti Group in Italy, and the plush, long-haired sheepskins were sourced from Iceland. All other items were purchased from local Christchurch retailers. HEADWAY.NET.NZ 60
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“Have both a realistic time frame and a realistic budget. Be as organised as possible. Don’t be afraid to ask for help and be prepared for the unexpected.”
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Hair | CHERE CHERIE
What advice would you give other stylists opening a salon? Have both a realistic time frame and a realistic budget. Be as organised as possible. Don't be afraid to ask for help and be prepared for the unexpected. Understand what your legal requirements are, specifically with your local council, and check that your first choice of business name is not already trademarked or copyrighted. Also, having a business partner that can take phone calls, pay bills and organise contractors is also handy.
What's special about the styling menu you offer? The one-on-one, uninterrupted service you receive from our experienced team and the desire to deliver the best.
What colour and styling brands do you use and why? We use Davines for its exceptional results; we can't get enough of the shine and longevity of the new Vibarchrom Mask colour. But more importantly, we use Davines for their commitment to sustainable and ethicallysourced ingredients, which is both important to my team and myself. We also use and love Oribe products for styling, because it delivers.
What is your most luxurious service? No one service is less luxurious than another. We believe that our environment creates a luxurious experience, whether you are in for a fringe trim or Balayage.
What do you want clients to leave thinking and feeling? â&#x20AC;&#x153;I look goodâ&#x20AC;?. We want each of them to leave the salon feeling positive and recharged. Looking sexy, feeling excited and looking their very best
PHOTOGRAPHY supplied
What are you most proud of ? The team and our friends. We've had a lot of amazing support throughout this journey and it makes us so proud to know there are people out there prepared to give so much, without any expectation of anything in return. So now it's up to us to repay them with an amazing and successful business. Chere Cherie Hair Salon 70 Victoria St Christchurch. www.cherecherie.co.nz HEADWAY.NET.NZ 62
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Heather Kaanoi
Candice Wyatt-Minter
[ USA ]
[ South Africa ]
A vibrant and knowledgable educator and platform artist, Heather travels the world sharing her passion for creative colour and styling.
Winner of the 2010 Davines World Style Contest, expert colourist and cutter, and owner of renowned eco-salon Wyatt in Johannesburg.
Koh Tanyawanichapong
Allilon
[ Thailand / Australia ]
[ United Kingdom ]
Australiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most in-demand session stylist, winner of Hair Expo Session Stylist of the Year 2016, with an effortlessly modern style.
Internationally celebrated academy of technical masters with a revolutionary system and language for precision cutting and colour.
Get our full 2017 calendar of education led by outstanding visiting and local artists from your area manager / call 0800 25 25 30 / email education@boutiquebrands.co.nz
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Julianne McGuigan [ Australia ] Editorial stylist for Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar, former member of Guido Palau’s runway team.
Boutique Brands is proud to announce our line-up of inspirational and hugely talented international educators and artists for 2017 .
Barney Martin [ Australia ] Boundary-pushing London-born stylist with 25 years experience, an international Fashion Week veteran, and owner of two of Sydney’s most acclaimed salons.
Mark Byrne [ Australia ] National Master Trainer for Davines Australia, a talented colourist who has worked alongside numerous icons of the industry.
. @boutiquebrandsnz boutiquebrands.co.nz
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Hair | CALL ME ROYALS
Call me
Royals With a love of Moroccan hospitality, culture and décor, Sydney’s award-winning salon Royals Hair shares their latest interior revamp at their Hornsby location.
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elaxing back at Royals Hornsby salon, you could be forgiven for thinking you were dining or visiting an exotic location in the Middle East. With a Moroccan theme featuring strongly in their décor design, this is a salon with a unique feel. Trudi Brewer reports. Stepping into the reception area at the Hornsby salon, the first thing to hit you is a stunning artwork created by Sydney artist Jamie Preisz. HEADWAY.NET.NZ 66
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Hair | CALL ME ROYALS
“Royals is not a franchise. However, we wanted to include something different at Hornsby that appealed to our team and clients. We took their tastes into account when designing the salon, and Jamie’s artwork reflects this,” says Royals owner, Adam Alamine. Embracing less of the Moroccan features of the other salons, when clients arrive at the Hornsby salon they will still see the authentic lanterns and grills, imported from the bazaars in Marrakech; a key feature of the Royals signature design. Says Adam; “The overall feel of Hornsby is more urban, due to using concrete as an interior highlight, which the other salons don’t have. Overall it still follows the same principles of unrefined beauty, which we love. We're not into refined clinical spaces, and we wanted the space to be somewhere fun you'd want to hang out.” The Royals Hornsby interior refresh follows on from a stellar year for the salon that has seen the opening of a third salon in Cherrybrook along with the Royals Education Academy. Last year also saw the team enjoy finalist nominations and wins in both the 2016 Hair Expo Awards and Australian Hair Fashion Awards.
PHOTOGRAPHY supplied
ROYALS HAIR CIRQUE COLLECTION
PHOTOGRAPHER: Daniel Knott. MAKEUP: Karina Marchetta. STYLIST: Angela Liang. HAIR: Travis Bandiera. www.royalshair.com
Royals Hair latest collection is named CIRQUE created by Travis Bandiera. The collection pays homage to his circus experiences and memories from childhood. The lighting, makeup and styling have an abstract interpretation of what the circus performers and ringleaders would look like standing underneath the bright lights of the circus tent. "I wanted the styling to be very new-age, incorporating ‘hero’ pieces that standout but complement the hair," says Bandiera. Incorporating textures through the clothing, such as leather, velour and latex, Bandiera has created a bold and futuristic statement. HEADWAY.NET.NZ 68
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Hair | Q&A
At your service A quaint salon, which used to be a country church, is now the ideal spot for Elite Hair & Beauty in Newcastle, New South Wales.
How and why did you choose this stunning building?
K-Pak deep penetrating reconstructor
We found this amazing church nine years ago after renting a smaller premises for three years prior. We got a tip-off that the church was about to go on the market and couldn’t pass up the opportunity to be able to redesign it as a hair and beauty salon.
Where did you get your ideas for the fit out?
K-Pak intense hydrator
It took us two years to come up with our new design. We wanted the salon to feel open and have plenty of room to move around. Also our clients told us they wanted a social space to relax while they waited for the colour to process. All the new stations and lighting have been custom-made for our vision. Also we are very lucky to have tradesmen in the family who came up with great designs using natural and industrial materials, to achieve the end result - a luxurious rustic look.
What advice would you give other stylists opening a salon?
K-Pak revitaluxe bio-advanced restorative treatment
When designing your layout, think about how you want the salon to flow and what services you are offering. Learning from our experience, make sure there is large open space to work; you don’t want to feel like you are working on top of one another. And finally, don’t be afraid to ask for advice from friends and family. We used many people's ideas to create this space.
What is special about the styling menu you offer? We offer both hair and beauty services. Our clients take advantage of not having to go to two different places for this. Our staff have had a wide range of training, allowing them to offer both hair and beauty services, and to create something unique for each client. We have created a VIP service that clients can sign up for to have these bespoke treatments.
What colour and styling brands do you use and why? We have used Joico colour and styling for over eight years; it has the technology to create healthy hair with both colouring and styling. And we love that Joico does not test on animals.
What is your most luxurious service? The K-Pak four-step treatment. Allow 20 minutes of relaxation and we can rebuild and revitalise damaged hair, which is completed by a beautiful blowout.
What do you want clients to leave thinking and feeling? Feeling relaxed and refreshed. Since our new renovation, we have found the salon feels calm and peaceful. We wanted our clients to feel comfortable and at home - for us this is there home away from home.
What are you most proud of ? Our amazing team and our family of tradesmen. I can’t thank them enough for everything they do each day. They helped with the design of our new space, which we could not have completed in 10 days without them.
PHOTOGRAPHY supplied
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emoulding a heritage church into a luxelooking salon in just ten days takes nerves of steel. Trudi Brewer chats to salon manager Jade West about this remarkable hair and beauty transformation and the service they offer.
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“I can’t thank my team enough for everything they do each day.”
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Business | NEW YEAR NEW VIEW
New Year new view
Start 2017 with a salon business review.
Welcome to 2017! You made it through the busy season, hopefully with most of your sanity intact. The new year is a perfect time to sit down, regroup and see what’s working in your salon. One good thing about busy times (aside from the revenue!) is that it shines a spotlight on what needs work. “As a salon owner, you have a choice,” says Zing Coach, Lisa Conway. “You can punish yourself for your mistakes and try to block them out, or you can reflect and embrace the learnings that come from looking back.” It’s time to reflect and embrace.
Check the numbers The first step in making your business more successful is looking at the numbers. Open up your salon management system and dive into those reports. Productivity: Of each staff member’s rostered hours, how many were actually booked? What’s the average per booking? What services were booked the most?
What’s your rebooking rate? The answer to these questions will inform what you need to focus on. It may be that you have a staff member who’s really busy, but has a fairly low average per booking. And perhaps that’s normal for their position, or perhaps you could be putting their time to better use. If there are services that are constantly being requested, maybe it’s time to think about a small price increase, or training more of your staff in that service. Sales: What products are selling well? What are you having trouble moving? Is there a particular staff member raking in the sales? If so, ask them what they’re doing. Maybe there’s a trick the rest of your staff can learn. So, where did you knock it out of the park? What numbers are making you cringe? Aside from that, how did you feel? Your productivity report may look amazing, but if you ran yourself off your feet to get it there, that’s not ideal. If you’re killing yourself to
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get those wonderful numbers, it’s time to start looking at ways you can improve your efficiency without putting in any more energy.
Start automating The next step in getting organised is looking at what you’re doing by hand. Spending precious hours mired in admin probably isn’t the best use of your time. Make a list of the little tasks you do every day, and think about which ones you can let go of. Are you spending hours calling people back to schedule appointments? Time to set up online booking. Are you texting or calling your clients to remind them of their appointments, or to ask them if you can change them? Time to get automated reminders. How did you get the numbers we talked about in the first section? If you don’t have software to handle your invoicing, keep track of sales and calculate productivity, then you’re either doing that by hand or not doing it at all. And neither of those is a good scenario! “Automating routine jobs means fewer mistakes and smoother running without the need for constant input or remembering yet another task to take action.” - Larissa Macleman, Timely blog.
“Timely gives us the latest technology to take our business forward.” KARL & DANELLE, Klone Hair
Set your goals Now that you’ve taken a hard look at the numbers and identified areas where you can save time, you can set some goals for the new year. Again, these will be pulled from your observations on where you fell short during the past year, especially the busy times. One thing to keep in mind when setting goals: they need to be specific. Don’t just say, “we’re going to make more money this year.” How? If you’re going to sell more products, give your team some ideas on how to do that. If you’re going to get more new customers through the door, identify a few marketing strategies that you’re going to tackle to do so.
PHOTOGRAPHY supplied
Time is money
Grace Phillips is the Inbound Marketing Manager at Timely Appointment Software. To find out more, visit www.gettimely.com.
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Finally, don’t just give yourself more tasks to do this year. I urge you to think of your time as being just as important as the money you make when you’re working. If you’re able to set up a few processes that save you three hours a week, you should count that as just as much of a win as getting a new client through the door. After all, a whole new opportunity opens when you get back time in your day you can spend it with clients, or with friends and family, or just doing something that you’ve been putting off for a while.
Visit gettimely.com to get started with a 30-day free trial.
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5
MINUTES WITH...
Salon owner Sara Allsop shares her new styling space and vision to help young blood in this business achieve session styling success. By Trudi Brewer
Hair | Q&A
ABOVE: Models from 21016 Industry Road Show event. BELOW: Sara Allsop and Jock Robson. Shannon Williams with models from Industry Road Show 2016 event.
FOLLOW SARA Industry | @saraallsop
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ith one of New Zealand’s most impressive styling CV's Sara Allsop is one of this country’s top session stylists. Backstage at all the high profile fashion weeks across the globe, one of her passions is sharing her knowledge with the next generation of young stylists. Opening a new stying space late last year with partner and husband Jock Robson, her love of session styling has become a focus for the year ahead. Trudi Brewer caught up with Allsop to discover her plans for 2017.
LET'S TALK ABOUT THE NEW SALON HOW AND WHY DID YOU CHOOSE THE LOCATION? We wanted to move our Ellerslie salon to a larger space with accessible off-street parking; it also needed to be within a couple of kilometres from the existing space. While we loved the heritage building we were in, when the salon was busy, it felt quite claustrophobic. This new space is three times the size and has an industrial feel and very high stud, which allows it to transform into a photographic studio, which for our session work and shoots is ideal.
WHERE DID YOU GET YOUR IDEAS FOR THE FIT-OUT? We kept it minimal to function well when the salon is busy. We loved the exposed beams and the concrete textures and didn't want to cover those up or paint over the walls. It also needs furnishings we can easily move for when we use the space for photography and education sessions.
WHAT’S SPECIAL ABOUT THE STYLING MENU YOU OFFER? Like fine dining restaurants, our menu is simple and limited. Our stylists all work as editorial and session stylists on their days off; most have worked internationally on fashion shows. So our menu is current and based on boutique services.
WHAT COLOUR AND STYLING BRANDS DO YOU USE AND WHY? We use Schwarzkopf Professional and Sachajuan. We respect brands that support session work and editorial styling. For us, it’s all about the management team of the company we work with, and if they are HEADWAY.NET.NZ 74
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Hair | Q&A
ABOVE: Backstage at Ruby for NZFW. RIGHT. On stage at Hair Expo Australia. OPPOSITE: Backstage at Paris Fashion Week.
WHAT ARE YOU MOST PROUD OF?
ABOVE: Allsop backstage working her magic at Emilia Wickstead at London Fashion Week.
That every goal we have ever set ourselves we have reached and exceeded. Everything we have achieved regarding the salon and team success, including international hair shows and fashion weeks is driven by our hard work and determination. Our hope is for others to take inspiration from the work we do and understand that anything is possible if you ‘think big'.
“big picture” thinkers like us, and make the most of opportunities, we love working with them.
Keeping the costs to a minimum. Ultimately, the space needs to start making you money as soon as possible. If you spend exorbitant amounts on a fit-out, then it takes a lot longer for this to happen. Think about how you want the salon to function, especially in the busy times, and while a small space might seem economical or less risky when you are starting out, if you think you will outgrow it, then it’s better to start with a larger site you can grow into right from the outset.
WHAT DO YOU WANT CLIENTS TO LEAVE THINKING AND FEELING? That they have received a high-end cut and colour service with a salon and staff that are internationally recognised. Also, that they feel comfortable in our environment, which is without ego or pretences.
styling products 1
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To share ideas on how to create beautiful images for editorial and photographic work, and to offer opportunities for young emerging talent in New Zealand. Both Jock and I feel it’s always the same senior people in the limelight, which has meant there is not a lot of room at the top. We want to help change that and encourage young talent.
WHAT WILL YOU COVER? 3
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Allsop’s aresnal of session styling products include: 1 Kérastase Elixir Ultime. 2 Schwarzkopf Professional Session Label Volumizing Root Spray. 3 TIGI- Queen For A Day Spray 4 L'Oréal - Elnett Hairspray.
Editorial and photographic work, the two things I am passionate about. Last year we had Shannon Williams, a young Australia artist, who is an up-and-coming editorial stylist taught by Sharon Blain – as our headline acts, and he is truly amazing. This year we want to build on the last road show and invite another up and coming young star to share their skills. Industry Road Show 2017 will host 80 stylists who are invited, and it’s free to attend. For dates and details visit Facebook/Industry
PHOTOGRAPHY Jock Robson and supplied
WHAT ADVICE WOULD YOU GIVE OTHER STYLISTS OPENING OR RENOVATING A SALON?
INDUSTRY ROAD SHOW TELL ME ABOUT THIS NEW TRAINING INITIATIVE?
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HAIRDRESSER: Paul Masci. COLOURIST: Paul Masci. PHOTOGRAPHER: Andrew Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Toole. MAKE UP ARTIST: Malisa Masci. STYLIST: Jay Frederickson
Mens
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Hair | HOX
HOX
By PAUL MASCI
HAIRDRESSER: Paul Masci. COLOURIST: Paul Masci. PHOTOGRAPHER: Andrew Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Toole. MAKE UP ARTIST: Malisa Masci. STYLIST: Jay Frederickson.
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Hair | HOX
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Hair | MAN ST YLE
Tailored fades and textured length are two standout features in men's grooming for 2017. Here's a guide to man style.
Cole Schierenbeck Senior Stylist, M11 studio. Senior Stylist, M11 Studio American Crew International All Star Educator Cole Schierenbeck, sees trends come and go,. Here's his take on men's grooming for the year ahead.
WHAT ARE THE STRONGEST TRENDS FOR 2017?
week later, so I choose carefully when using thinners.
A CLASSIC GROOMED LOOK IS ALSO EVOLVING WITH CUTS, WHAT STYLING PRODUCTS SHOULD YOU USE TO ACHIEVE THIS LOOK?
We're still seeing lots of tight fades and Beckham undercuts and thank goodness, fewer man buns. More length and texture is coming through, and it's the perfect time to suggest growing out that fade before winter. Men are dressing far more casually today, even in corporate roles.
Product selection is important but equally so is how to use it. Let clients know how much to use, where to be heavyhanded and where to use less, and most importantly, how dry or damp hair should be before styling. Personally, I like to use strong gel, let it set, then break apart the crunch, followed by paste. My go-to product would be American Crew Boost Powder, hair Viagra - keeps it up.
HOW HAS THIS TRANSLATED TO HAIR GROOMING?
WHAT'S YOUR LIST OF TOP TOOLS EVERY MALE STYLIST SHOULD OWN?
Personally, I still like the idea of dressing up more than down. I feel like fashion is more calculated and complex and gets misunderstood as casual. If your wardrobe is more relaxed, your hair style should pick up that slack.
• • • • • •
HOW DO YOU CREATE TEXTURE IN HAIR? There are many ways to texture hair. I use a razor for most shapes; it leaves each strand of hair textured before you even start your secondary shape. The depth of the razor (or scissors) has a major role to play, as well as the angle and pressure used. Thinning Shears can create a fluffy effect a
A professional kit should have at least three scissors. Scissor over a comb - bulk work. Detail Shear - for dry cutting. Thinning Shear (know how to use it, it can destroy a cut A r.azor and blades. Multiple combs. Essential is a Clipper Comb that equals the size of your Clipper Blade. • A stylist pouch/care case (please keep it clean and organised). • Last but not least, an experimental owner that's prepared to try new ways of using them.
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Hair | MAN ST YLE
Julian Maloney Owner operator of Maloney's Barber. Barbering is a massive trend and Julian Maloney, owner operator of Maloney's Barber Shop in Auckland, is at the top of his game. We ask him what's trending for the year ahead.
WHAT ARE THE STRONGEST TRENDS FOR 2017? A move away from the high fades and the 'Madmen' executive look, towards mid-length and longer hair. From a barber's perspective, mid-length means hair is touching the ears, and long hair is below the ears and touching the collar. However, guys are still going very short (to the skin) around the hairline (low fade), keeping as much weight on the sides as possible, with a textured, curly top. Picture the Flying Nun Dunedin look of the mid to late eighties and throw in a cheeky mullet contrasting with a flat top.
MEN ARE DRESSING FAR MORE CASUALLY TODAY, EVEN IN CORPORATE ROLES. HOW HAS THIS TRANSLATED TO HAIR GROOMING? Beards are much more acceptable today, even in traditionally conservative work environments such as accounting and law. Remember that casual Friday at an accounting firm just means that you don't have to wear a tie. The corporate world is always two to three years behind what you'll see on the street, so our mainstream clients are still enjoying the short back and sides.
FACIAL HAIR IS ALSO DOMINANT. DOES THIS SUIT LONG TEXTURED OR SHORT GROOMED CUTS? We work to complement the client's face shape. Working with both a beard and the hairstyle gives you more options. I recommend a short, sharp haircut if a client has a long beard. In contrast, a short, clipped beard works well with textured, mid-length hair. Avoid longer hair with a full beard unless
you're going for the down-and-out look.
HOW DO YOU CREATE TEXTURE IN HAIR? Point-cut and chip into the hair when wet, then blow dry into the finished style and run the texturizing scissors through to remove bulk. The new generation of barbers in our shop has started to bring back the diffuser when drying. This is frowned upon by my generation, as hairclips, but the result is on point and change is good.
A CLASSIC GROOMED LOOK IS ALSO EVOLVING WITH CUTS, WHAT STYLING PRODUCTS SHOULD YOU USE TO ACHIEVE THIS LOOK? Pomades that offer shine are our go-to product for the last few years. In 2017, we'll see more dry, matte creams and clays. American Crew Boost Powder is great for adding body with a natural finish. It's really important to have your team actively educate clients how to use products themselves at home. Being able to recreate the style when they leave the barber shop makes for a satisfied client and adds extra value to your service.
WHAT ARE THE TOP TOOLS EVERY MALE STYLIST SHOULD OWN? • A pair of 6-7 inch scissors. • Cordless clippers and cordless neck trimmers. I use a Kiwi shoe polishing brush to clean the clippers during and after every haircut. • Large, firm Andis clipper combs and a smaller Wahl clipper comb. • Soft-bristled 'Jack Dean' military brush, to clear hair off the clipper head as you are working. This helps you see the fade better. • And our newest tool is the Andis Profoil Lithium Shaver. This does the same job as a cut-throat razor, taking the hair down to skin and leaving a very smooth finish.
the top shelf 1 Pure Deluxe Pomade High Sheen Balm. 2 Joe Grooming Straightening Pomade. 3 Joico Structure Dust Matte Hair Powder. 4 Kevin Murphy Thick. Again. 1
2
3 4 PHOTOGRAPHY Shutterstock and supplied
For texture and volume, here are four star performers.
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Headway | PROMOTION
Berry's London Barbershop Berrys London Barbershop is for the well-dressed man who wants a grooming range with healing and skin smoothing in mind. From Beard & Moustache Wax, Balm, Oil and Shave Gel, we call them cosmetics that care thanks to the addition of tea tree oil, which contains antibacterial, antifungal and antiviral properties. www.phb.net.nz.
American Crew
De Lorenzo DMan
When styles require hold and direction reach for American Crew Heavy Hold. A hard-working water-based pomade that is designed to offer maximum hold to sleek styles that need setting and shaping. Work a small amount evenly through dry or towel dried hair and style.
For reinvigorating the scalp and hair, this refreshing minty daily conditioner contains camphor crystals, bergamot mint and black pepper that help to cool and soothe. Apply to freshly washed hair, leave for a few minutes, and then rinse.
Kevin Murphy STIMULATE-ME. RINSE The new full range of styling products from De Lorenzo DMAN helps to control hair in a variety of styles, from slicking back side parts to styling quiffs, adding volume or calming wave. This range adds shine, definition without the grease. Expect a range that offers light to medium hold for all hair types.
HEADWAY.NET.NZ 2
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Hair | LONDON’S CALLING
LONDON’S CA LLING Follow hairdresser of the year Danny Pato on his trip to the UK and his fabulous finds along the way.
H
airdresser Danny Pato is no stranger to being backstage at fashion weeks around the globe. Working under pressure is something he relishes, so as part of the prize for becoming New Zealand Hairdresser of the Year at the Schwarzkopf Professional Hair Expo Awards, Pato took a whirlwind trip to London, where he shares a diary of his busy week. From recreating his winning looks in front of Europe’s hottest stylists to tasting the best food on offer; here’s a slice of his week in London.
TUESDAY 11 TH OCTOBER Arrived at The Hospital Club, our home for the next six nights. A private members club for creative types it was founded by the Eurythmics Dave Stewart and Microsoft co-founder Paul Allen. It houses events, exhibitions and live music and is just so freaking cool. Collaborating with up-andcoming artists whose work features on the walls of this boutique hotel there’s a screening room, several bars, lounges and galleries over seven levels which was once an abandoned hospital. They even have a music and TV studio in the basement (which has recorded shows by Rihanna, U2, Jay-Z and Rita Ora to name a few). Our suite is incredible, with comforts that makes it feel like a home, not a hotel. Wandered jet-lagged through the nearby streets and ended up at Cantina Laredo. It’s a semi-formal Mexican restaurant that didn't look particularly appealing, but the food was amazing. Our waiter prepared guacamole at the table and it was the freshest and tastiest we’ve even eaten.
WEDNESDAY 12 TH OCTOBER A spot of shopping at Dover St Market – with the pound at an all-time low, Comme de Garçon is cheaper here than in Japan. Popped into Jamie Oliver’s Italian for lunch, ordered the tasty bolognese for £11 – so good. Met up with an old friend at the hotel for a cocktail then headed across town to try out Sushi Samba for a late lunch. This restaurant combines Japanese, Peruvian and Brazilian cuisine, situated on the 38th floor with a fantastic view of the city. We arrived at three, so it was relatively quiet but ideal for catching up with our mate. We ate some delicious black cod HEADWAY.NET.NZ 86
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Hair | LONDON’S CALLING
skewers, and the spicy tuna rolls are to die for accompanied by Sake, which was followed by a Martini. Headed to a local bar for another Martini, then took the world's longest Uber ride to The Crazy Coqs for an intimate cabaret with the brilliant La Voix (of Britain's Got Talent fame). At the end of the show, we joined La Voix, the hilarious EastEnders star Lucy Benjamin and a table of interesting creative types for dinner at the incredibly grand, but loud, Brasserie Zédel. The food is classical French fare, but very reasonably priced.
THURSDAY 13 TH OCTOBER For a naughty lunch, we were recommended to try an authentic Italian pizza joint called Ecco on Drury Lane. Two pizzas cost us £9 in total, a complete bargain for a traditional wood-fired pizza – and I can highly recommend the four cheese option. After a lazy day, we went for dinner at one of our favourite places in London - La Bedega Negra. It's a pumping underground Mexican restaurant, accessed through a fake shop front of a sex shop and strip bar. It feels like the SPQR of Soho and is fairly reasonably priced. Highly recommend this for a night out but do book in advance.
FRIDAY 14 TH OCTOBER This morning was spent at a casting call for models for the show, which was followed by lunch at The Palomar. Luckily, there were a couple of seats left up at the bar. This place served small plates from a creative Jerusaleminspired menu that we loved. My favourite dish was the deconstructed lamb and beef kebab with yoghurt and tahini. Wandered around the streets of Covent Garden during the day; we fell in love with the Seven Dials area close to our hotel. Another is Neal's Yard Dairy, while also has an astounding selection, and helpful staff who know everything there is to know about English cheese. That night it was dinner with friends to Bob Bob Ricard, a Russian and English fusion menu with a focus on caviar and champagne. The decor is impressive. It’s modelled off the Orient Express, so looks and feels like you’re on an old luxurious train, with red, gold and polished wood decor. Each table even has a "press for champagne" button - the idea is that you press the button and they bring you bubbles. So much fun and very luxe. However the service was pretty average, and the food didn't match the price or the style of the venue. I get the feeling many new restaurants in London lose their magic cashing in while they're hot, instead of continually upping their game.
SATURDAY 15 TH OCTOBER Started the morning with the best croissant of our trip from Monmouth Coffee Company in Seven Dials, then went to 26 Grains in Neal's Yard for chai bircher and banana cacao porridge, very healthy; I was surprised I enjoyed it. I do highly recommend this for a great breakfast to start the day. After breakfast it was time to prep for the show. Running through the looks for the show, we ended up hanging hairpieces to dry on coat hangers from a chandelier. Feel sorry for the cleaners in the hotel - we tried to keep it all in the bathroom, but we ended up getting hair everywhere. Managed to get everything sorted before midnight. 87 HEADWAY.NET.NZ
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SUNDAY 16 TH OCTOBER - SHOW DAY
“It was such a privilege, and honour, to represent New Zealand on a world stage, especially with so many industry big names in the audience,,” says Pato.
Look 1
Today is show day, the reason we are in London. And as part of winning New Zealand Hairdresser of the Year at Hair Expo 2016, I was invited to come and do a show in London at Salon International – Europe’s largest hairdressing industry trade fair, with more than 40,000 hairdressers gathering at London’s massive ExCel event centre, for three days of inspiration. For this show I decided to evolve the Decora Kei photographic collection I created earlier in the year with my salon team. I wanted to bring this bright collection to life and make the hair more theatrical for the stage. So many stylists choose black on stage, so I wanted to do something colourful and different. Keeping in mind that this is a show for hairdressers from hairdressers, I wanted to share creative, editorial techniques, rather than cutting hair or doing day-to-day commercial looks. Everything went according to plan – the audience was responsive and engaged. I didn’t drop anything or swear; the models were brilliant, and the looks were all completed. It was such a privilege, and honour, to represent New Zealand on a world stage, especially with so many industry big names in the audience, people I look up to like Errol Douglas. After packing down, we went to the Tribu-te hairdressing show to see Angelo Seminara.
MONDAY 17 TH OCTOBER Look 2
Breakfast again at 26 Grains and coffee croissant at Monmouth. Packed up and checked out of Hospital Club, then headed to community food collective Startisans where we pigged out on the amazing Noera’s Ethiopian food for £5 each. After that it was time to head home.
Look 1 – RUBY We divided hair into seven rows, braiding her hair with colourful pom-pom garlands.
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With Vita, we created a rainbow-coloured, soft ,shaggy, layered haircut.
Look 3 - BRYNJA We built up multi-coloured hair bows to create a theatrical hair-up. Makeup was by Steph Lai, a New Zealand makeup artist, living in London.
Look 3
PHOTOGRAPHY Danny Pato.
Look 2 - VITA
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Business | Q&A
Owner of True Grit, Jacqui Victor and husband Shane Victor. ABOVE: The team from True Grit.
BEST IN CLASS Meet Jacqui Victor of True Grit - 2016 Kitomba NZARH New Zealand Salon of the Year
As the winner of the prestigious 2016 Kitomba NZARH New Zealand Salon of the Year here’s some advice from True Grit salon owner Jacqui Victor.
WHAT’S THE UNDERLYING PHILOSOPHY OF TRUE GRIT? WHAT DO YOU BELIEVE IT OFFERS CLIENTS? Our salon's mission statement really says it all. True Grit is a dynamic team of stylists working together in a supportive, trusting and creative environment. We reflect commitment, growth and integrity in the industry. True Grit is dedicated to being committed, unique and fabulous. That’s been our mission statement since 2007 and it’s just as true 10 years later. It’s because it’s all about True Grit’s people - the team who we train, mentor and coach. They really are the most important part of the business. True Grit believes we offer our clients the best in hairdressing that we possibly can. This is because my entire team strive to be the best and we train them to be the best through training in both hairdressing and life skills. It’s not just about the hair. We also train based on our client’s journey through the salon, something we pride ourselves on and is evident in every aspect of what we do.
WHAT MOTIVATES YOU PERSONALLY AND PROFESSIONALLY EACH DAY? There are two things I’ve struggled with in my career. I’ve definitely been in a place where my work/life balance has been really bad and also our experience following the Christchurch earthquakes. True Grit has had to move eight times before we ended up in our beautiful salon and each time I had to find the motivation to rebuild again. I’ve always found the motivation in my team. That’s both personally and professionally too; they’re the reason I get up in the morning. Simply seeing the smiles on their faces or watching them thrive and achieve is why I love my job and this industry.
WHAT DIRECTION DO YOU SEE YOUR BUSINESS TAKING IN THE FUTURE? Honestly, I’m still relishing in normality. For so many years, it was all about the earthquakes, trying to keep the business running and dealing with the team coming and going. Now I no longer have to be in survival mode; it’s about True Grit being in a normal situation and enjoying a work/life balance. But I want to focus on
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True Grit team with owner Jacqui Victor. BELOW: Kitomba Salon & Spa CEO Tom Murphy at the 2016 NZARH New Zealand Salon of the Year Awards.
growing my business and actually reaping the benefits of that.
PHOTOGRAPHY supplied
HOW DID IT FEEL TO TAKE OUT KITOMBA NZARH NEW ZEALAND SALON OF THE YEAR? AND AN ADDITIONAL THREE BUSINESS AWARDS - GRAND SALON OF THE YEAR, BEST SALON DESIGN AND EXCELLENCE IN MARKETING? There are absolutely no words= to explain it; I even have a tear in my eye right now thinking about it! I don’t think I’ve come down to earth yet and I definitely haven’t realised the impact it will have on True Grit. This has really been ten years in the making. I entered the Business Awards for the first time in 2006 and since then, I’ve usually been a finalist in categories here and there, but never have we won. Winning New Zealand Salon of the Year has to be the biggest surprise. I really thought we had scooped up three awards and the evening was over. I can’t describe how proud I am. I’m completely blown away to be the winner of Grand Salon of the Year too; I just didn’t think we would get it because we were up against so many amazing businesses. It really means so much to us to have won Best Salon Design too. Not having been in ideal locations and salons during the earthquakes
meant the design of our salon was incredibly important to us. We put so much work into it and we are so proud to have such a beautiful salon. As for Excellence in Marketing, I’ve wanted to win this one! We put in a lot of time and effort, and while it pays off for us, it’s so nice to be rewarded for it.
HOW DOES THE PROCESS OF ENTERING THE BUSINESS AWARDS HELP YOU AS A BUSINESS OWNER? Actually sitting down and writing your entry allows you to really look into the heart of your business. Not only do you look at the figures, but all aspects of your business. As an owner, dissecting your business and looking at it with a magnifying glass to see what you’re doing well and where you can improve is so important. As a salon, we work with our figures every day but stopping to look at your business as a whole is such a valuable exercise. Now I really know where my business stands and how well I’m performing.
WHAT WOULD YOU SAY TO SALONS CONSIDERING ENTERING THE BUSINESS AWARDS IN THE FUTURE? Do it, enter. Even if you don't win, the
bonus is that you get to really look at your business. There are so many great questions you have to answer as part of your entry and I’ve always found that they really get you to look at what you’re doing. I’ve entered many times now and something I’ve seriously taken away from the process is changing the way you do things that you’ve done for years. The ability to see where change can be made is incredible and we’re a more successful business because of it. Now I won’t lie, it takes a lot of time to create your entry and I found it full-on, but the benefits of entering totally outweigh this.
WHAT PART HAS TECHNOLOGY OR SOFT WARE PLAYED IN SUPPORTING YOUR SUCCESS? I find it scary how important technology has become. True Grit relies on it so heavily; it really is an integral part of our business. It’s like the old saying, “if you don’t get on the boat, you’ll miss it”. We work really hard to keep on top of it, especially when it comes to social media and the software we use in our salon. We need Kitomba to keep our business running. I believe Kitomba has played a large role in our success and we could not have done it without it. They’re at the forefront of salon software. HEADWAY.NET.NZ 90
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Liana
g-Biddulp in
h.
Top in class
K
Headway | PROMOTION
South Island salons were stand out at the recent Hito Awards – congratulations to the winners from Headway Magazine. Here’s what two of the winners had to say. When a room of hairdressers gather in Auckland to celebrate success, there is buzz in the air. Christchurch salon True Grit won the 2016 Kitomba NZARH Salon of the Year. Owner Jacqui Victor commented; “We’re so honoured to be New Zealand Salon of the Year and winners of three Business Awards. It was totally unexpected because the calibre of the other entrants was so high. We’re extremely proud of our amazing True Grit team. Without them we wouldn’t be where we are today, and are so happy to have shared it with them last night”. Also flying the flag for the South Island, Dunedin hairdressing apprentice Liana King-Biddulph was the other big winner on the night, topping off an incredible year for the stylist. Having won the HITO Apprentice of the Year Award, a prestigious award that acknowledges the best apprentice barber, beauty therapist, or hairdresser in New Zealand. She also won the NZARH Next Generation Hairstylist of the Year and the gold medal at the WorldSkills hairdressing competition earlier in the year. "I've always wanted to be a hairdresser, and I'm so honoured to be up here tonight," Liana said. "I've attended a hairdressing school and been an apprentice, and I can say doing an apprenticeship is the best decision I've ever made. There are so many opportunities in the salon. Thank you to my mentors and employers Kylie Hayes and Nelson Morrison. I look forward to where my career will take me next and to continue sharing my passion and skills with others." Each year Kitomba Salon Software, the New Zealand Association of Registered Hairdressers (NZARH) and the New Zealand Hair and Beauty Industry Training Organisation (HITO) come together and hold the Industry Awards. The awards celebrate excellence in business and training in the New Zealand hair and beauty industries. Tom Murphy, CEO of Kitomba, explains; "The Industry Awards are made up of two distinct areas - the Kitomba NZARH Business Awards and the HITO Training Awards. The Kitomba NZARH Business Awards, now in their eleventh year, celebrate the idea that our industry has many great businesses, that we can inspire each other to excel and improve, and that recognising and celebrating business excellence and success is good for us all.” For a full list of winners go to www.hito.org.nz
PHOTOGRAPHY supplied
"I've always wanted to be a hairdresser, and I'm so honoured to be up here tonight," Liana says.
Kitomba is New Zealand’s leading salon and spa software provider servicing over 2,300 salons. Founded in 2002, Kitomba is driven by its single-mindedness to provide innovative, easy-to-use software and world-class support to salon and spa businesses of all sizes to support their success. Headquarters are based in Wellington and the company also has dedicated teams across Australia, New Zealand and the UK. NZARH is the umbrella organisation for 15 Regional Associations run by hairdressers for hairdressers to maintain and grow hairdressing standards. NZARH is the only organisation in New Zealand that represents the needs of hairdressers in business today. All NZARH hair salon members have professional, qualified staff to meet New Zealand's highest hairdressing standards. HITO support barbering, beauty, and hairdressing training in New Zealand. Through our apprenticeship programme, they help trainees, businesses, and industries thrive. HITO also offer a number of other programmes that produce technically skilled, commercially successful barbers, beauty therapists, hairdressers, and nail technicians. HEADWAY.NET.NZ 92
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#HEADWAY SUMMER
HAIR BEAUTY FASHION NEW ZEALAND / SUMMER 2017 / VOL.39 NO.4
11/12/16 9:01 PM
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This high-performance serum is a lightweight, rapidly absorbed concentrate designed to restore, protect and reverse some of the visible changes on the skin’s surface due to sun damage. With 15% vitamin C, 1% vitamin E and 0.5% ferulic acid, the power-packed combination of ingredients in Serum CEF provides eight times more protection towards the natural sun resistance of the skin, helping defend against UV damage and environmental stress. Your secret to a healthy, glowing complexion all summer long.
For details on becoming a Joyce Blok stockist or to find a Joyce Blok spa or salon near you, contact us on: T: 0800 105 107 • E: info@joyceblok.co.nz • www.joyceblok.co.nz facebook.com/joyceblok • @joycebloknz
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40
IT’S BEEN
YEARS
T
he year was 1977 and what a year it was. The Bee Gees, Sex Pistols and Fleetwood Mac were in the charts. Star Wars opened in cinemas and Apple II Computers went on sale. Hair styles ranged from Farrah to Blondie to Bowie and skin care was pretty much cold cream and glitter. But in the words of the most iconic of pop star of the era – a star was born! It was 40 years ago that Headway magazine was launched and next year we begin the celebrations with a special collectors issue in March 2017. Make sure you don’t miss out on being seen in or reading New Zealand’s largest and most successful trade magazine for hair & beauty.
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PHOTOGRAPHY Shutterstock
Beauty
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WRINKLE WARRIOR Stretch out those Botox appointments with the aid of BX Wrinkle Corrector from Sothys, which has been designed to offer a smooth effect on fine lines. This high-performing wrinkle eraser has a targeted applicator to fill those crowâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s feet and frown lines. Use morning and night to achieve the best benefits.
DEEP CLEAN
Beauty news
For skin in need of a deep cleanse, the latest Sothys Desquacrem Forte Microderm Deep-pore cleanser+ exfoliating action has the added benefit of exfoliant. It contains salicylic acid and micro-grains of rice, ideal for combination to oily skin; it is also a brilliant way to remove sunscreen build-up. Apply a small amount to moist skin and emulsify in circular movements with dampened fingertips. Leave on the skin to activate for a few minutes and then rinse in lukewarm water.
By SARAH SIMPSON
Hydration Burst Thirsty skin will soak up a nourishing spritz in summer. Jane Iredale Pommisst Hydration Spray can be put to work in so many ways: 1. Lightly spray your face and pat with your fingers to work moisture into the skin and to minimise fine lines and pores. 2. Great to help set mineral makeup and help to conceal pores and fine lines.
SUN SMART Arming yourself with the right protection this summer is smart, and finding a range with the addition of a highâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;performing sunscreen is even smarter. Enter HydroPeptide Solar Defence SPF 30. This non-greasy sunscreen self-adjusts to the colour of your skin tone offering the benefits a tinted moisturiser-like coverage, while anti-aging ingredients hydrate, protect and help clarify the skin.
3. Ideal as an instant spritz of moisturising for oily skin. 4. Use instead of water to dampen makeup brushes. 9 HEADWAY.NET.NZ
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Beauty | NEWS
I ON
YOUR EY EP E E K
T
PLANT POWER
For the most luxurious body treatment that works on your mood and your skin tone, here’s the newest innovation from DECLÉOR,the Aroma Blend Body Ritual.
What is it?
Tired eyes will be brightened by the benefits of ASPAR Camellia Brightening Eye Cream. Best used in combination with the Rose Hydrating Facial Hydrosol, this eye cream is best applied while the skin is still damp from the mist. Start applying from the inner part of the eye and slowly pat outwards along the brow bone and under the eyes.
on
Paris-based DECLÈOR trainer Alexia Leroy (who has worked in spas all over the world) launched Aroma Blend at More Than Skin Spa & Beauty in Albany, late last year and remarked this body ritual is more than just a treatment to tone and perfect skin; it is a mind and body experience. The service begins with a few questions such as: What is your state of mind? How are you feeling? What are your body and skin concerns? She then marks the responses on a client card. The answers help guide you and the therapist toward the right cocktail of oils to help you relax or revive, firm up or detox. The format goes like this; there are four body concentrations, firming, lifting, refining and, detoxing all designed for cellulite and fatigue. And there are three blends for your state of mind; relaxation, energising and harmonising. I decide to go for firming and invigorating (and the Q&A confirmed my choice). It’s all very precise and prescriptive, with the oils dispensed and blended on the spot to get the best results. The massage movements are also unique, light pinching, and pressure point release in addition to the standard circular effleurage movements. And while I should report I did drift off to sleep (it’s very relaxing), I found it particularly energising on my tired legs and very firming on my not so tight butt. It’s a full body experience; even the stomach area is massaged, (if you like that) and there are breathing exercises that go along with the treatment to restore the body’s oxygen supply. The back is heated with hot towels and then stretched; even the fingers and toes are manipulated to stretch out the joints. There is not one muscle in the body that isn’t treated to a hands-on workout - top shelf and ultra-relaxing, it’s a treatment that is truly unforgettable. - Trudi Brewer
Designed to diminish the look of dark circles, puffiness and fine lines, you could be safe thinking this eye cream does it all. Elizabeth Arden PRO Age Defying Eye Cream contains Allyl PQQ, a powerful antioxidant with a highly restorative complex to help banish these signs of ageing.
ne
How does it work?
While we don’t want to iron out laughter lines completely, a high–performing eye cream can soften them slightly. Here are two stand-outs launching this month.
shi
Decléor is famous for using ‘plant power’ to heal the body. The oils and botanicals that make the products are pure and potent, as well as smelling and feeling divine once on the skin. The new Aroma Blend tailor-made body ritual uses 26 essential oils blended for you, using specific massage movements all with body shaping and detoxing in mind.
Lip gloss and summer go hand-in-hand. Jane Iredale Lip Fixation is a lasting stain with a shot of gloss. Lips are plumped and nourished with vitamin E, avocado and jojoba seed oils and ginger root extract. The colours include: Cherish, Compulsion, Craving, Craze, Desire, Devotion, Fascination, Fetish, Passion and Rapture. HEADWAY.NET.NZ 10
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10 E
Non-ghosting Formula
UVA and UVB Filters
Thixotropic Formulation
Natural Oxide Pigments
Over 3 hours water resistance
What is it? Ikoi Spa, Sothys Brightening Facial and 3 Salts Peeling body treatment Hands-on full body rejuvenation are what Ikoi Spa in Auckland specialise in, so when the invite came to spend an hour indulging in a Sothys facial and body scrub, there was very little resistance from me, says Trudi Brewer. Here are the points that make this treatment top-shelf.
What can you expect from this facial? Like most facial’s the makeup removal and cleansing are swift, and that’s the way I like it. I always like the lengthy part of any skin treatment to be the active step; in this case, a brightening serum with pure vitamin C. Applied to the face and neck, the solution is massaged into the dark spots on my cheeks to penetrate with effleurages. Next step is the mask, which stays on the skin for 15 minutes and a gorgeous arm and foot massage help the time pass. Once rinsed from skin the brightening fluid and sun protection round off this facial nicely - the results skin that is sporting not only a youthful glow but lasting clarity.
And the body salt scrub?
Clear Formula Including Vitamin E SPF
50
Love Your Skin
Suppliers of medical and professional skincare
p: 0800 33 888 3 m: 021 985 393 e:sales@worldbeaute.co.nz www.worldbeaute.co.nz
I can not understand women who don’t indulge in body treatments. For anyone who is self-tan obsessed this 3 Salts Peeling treatment will have your skin looking firm and feeling smooth and ready for a streak-free layer of tan in no time. On dry skin, the exfoliation begins on the back the entire body is buffed with a combination of three different salts sourced from the Himalayas, Dead Sea and France. The salty mix is suspended in the most divine cocktail of essential oils including lavender, petitgrain, cypress, geranium, rosemary and chamomile, and it’s this combination that gives skin that polished look and well-nourished feel. After 30 minutes of grainy massage, dry skin and blemishes are a distant memory, and after a warm shower, skin is ready to bare.
Mask moment Sheet masks are bang on trend and Lonvitalite are professionalonly serum infused masks that can also be used at home. Choose from collagen, coconut milk, green tea, coffee and the very luxe 24 carat gold eye and lip masks. For stockist details CS & CO 0800 604 604 or www.cs.co.nz
PHOTOGRAPHY Shutterstock and supplied.
3 Shades to perfectly match your skin tone
Vitamin
B
SPF 50+ Broad Spectrum Protection
DY BO R
A EH
Reasons why skin professionals recommend Fleur De Mer SPF Foundation Creams
FACE &
Headway Beauty | NEWS | PROMOTION
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Beauty | BEHIND THE SCREENS
FIB: A HIGHER FACTOR MEANS MORE PROTECTION FACT: “According to the Cancer Society,
the higher the SPF number, the more Ultraviolet Radiation (UVR) is filtered and the greater the protection. Because of the number of factors involved, (e.g. time of the year, time of day and skin type) the SPF is not precise, but gives a general guide to sun protection” explain McKenzie.
Behind the
Screens S
lip, Slop, Slap and Wrap – it’s been drilled into our heads since we were children, but our actual application of this information is a little worse for wear. We spoke to Tania McKenzie, Clinical Educator at Advanced Skin Technologies New Zealand & Appearance Medicine Nurse at Skin Institute to help determine the fibs from the facts on sunscreen.
FIB: IF IT’S CLOUDY OUTSIDE, I DON’ T NEED TO WEAR SUNSCREEN FACT: That’s definitely not the case! “Sunscreens
are effectively filters, screening out most of the sun’s UVA and UVB rays. These rays are present in our atmosphere whether the sun’s out, if it’s cloudy or even when it’s raining. UV radiation can pass through the clouds and rain, and can even reflect off snow in the heart of winter” explains McKenzie.
FIB: I HAVE DARKER SKIN, SO I DON’T NEED TO WORRY FACT: Even if you have a darker complexion,
it’s still possible to have genes that make you more susceptible to skin cancer. Bob Marley, for example, died of melanoma on his toe, so although the risk factor is lower, as always there is always a possibility. “Sun damage can increase the signs of ageing including dehydration of the skin, wrinkles and lines, and increase the chance of pigmentation”, says McKenzie.
FIB: SUNSCREEN DOESN’T EXPIRE FACT: As with all products, all sunscreens expire.
“It’s important to always check the expiry date on your sunscreen before use, and if it’s expired, don’t use it. Expired sunscreen will not protect you as much as a new sunscreen” explains McKenzie.
FIB: I DON’ T NEED TO APPLY SUNSCREEN IF IT’S IN MY MAKEUP FACT: With our harsh, unforgiving New Zealand
sun, make-up alone is not enough. “No matter how you apply your sunscreen, it will still wear off after about 2 hours, so you need to keep reapplying it during the day”, explains McKenzie. Using a creamy sunscreen with a mineral powder brushed on top is a much more effective way to ensure your skin is flawless and protected. Layering is best, with a sunscreen, make-up as well as a finishing powder that all contain an SPF.
HYDROPEPTIDE Solar Defense Broad Spectrum SPF30
FIB: I ONLY NEED TO CONCENTRATE ON APPLYING SUNSCREEN ON MY FACE FACT: “While your face may receive the most sun exposure throughout the year, other parts of your body also receive regular exposure i.e. hands, chest, neck, head”, explains McKenzie. It’s also important to apply sunscreen every day to the parts of your body which will be exposed to the sun, and wear a hat to protect your head – the perfect excuse to shop!
JOYCE BLOK Everyday Sun Fitness SPF15+
FIB: WATERPROOF AND SWEAT RESISTANT SUNSCREEN DOESN’ T NEED TO BE REAPPLIED FACT: With our busy schedules, it seems crazy
to have to reapply sunscreen throughout the day, but if you want to avoid getting burnt then it’s a must. Contact with water, rubbing against clothes and even sweating can also hinder the effectiveness of a “water-proof” sunscreen. “No matter what SPF you use, you should always reapply your sunscreen every two hours to ensure your skin remains protected” suggests McKenzie.
DECLÉOR Aroma Sun Expert Summer Oil SPF30
FIB: THE MAJORITY OF SUN HARM OCCURS BEFORE THE AGE OF 18, SO THE DAMAGE IS ALREADY DONE. FACT: While we may have been a lot more careless with our sun protection when we were younger, the truth is that sun damage can occur at any age, when your skin is exposed to UVA and UVB radiation. According to McKenzie, the more time your skin is exposed, the more damage that can occur, including signs of ageing, and an increased risk of skin cancer and melanoma. Best practise: sunscreen no matter your age!
ULTRACEUTICALS Sun Active SPF50+ Face Cream
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SKIN THERAPIST Leanne Dore Illuminate Me in Auckland
WHAT PRODUCTS ARE ESSENTIAL DURING SUMMER AND WHY? Sunblock. With the sun showing up in full force we need to block out those harmful rays. Sunblock is number one. Sun damage is irreversible; 60 percent of the ageing process is driven by sun damage. Physical sunblocks are the ultimate in sun protection as they cover both UVB and UVA rays. Ensure that your sunblock is new this season. Choose an SPF 30+ and higher, and you can layer it on the skin. A lot of moisturisers have SPF in them; add a physical screen and then makeup, and you’re covered. Scrub. A good face and body scrub to exfoliate are also essential. We are so exposed in the summer months that the skin on the body can have the appearance of a dry riverbed! Your skin needs to be refreshed by exfoliating then moisturising. Fot the face, try Priori AHA Face and Body Scrub and for the body I like ASPAR Ultra Rich Body Cream.
WHAT THE EXPERTS HAVE TO SAY
W
hen it comes to a summer skincare routine no two are the same, but there are some essentials that can’t be left out. We asked some of this country’s top professionals to comment on what they see as the must-haves when it comes to a summer skincare regime. Trudi Brewer asked an appearance medicine doctor, skin therapist and celebrity makeup artist for their summer skin mantra.
WHAT ANTIOXIDANTS DO YOU LIKE TO RECOMMEND FOR PROTECTION DURING SUMMER? My favourite environmental protection is the powerful Priori Idebenone EvenTones. It is a very clever antioxidant that does neutralise up to 95% free radical damage, but needs to be coupled with a good sun block. For this, I recommend ASAPR Moisturising Daily Defence SPF 50. This product has never failed me. It doesn’t travel or roll when applied and is great for under make –up.
ARE YOU A PHYSICAL OR CHEMICAL SUNSCREEN FAN, WHY? Physical screen always trumps chemical; it gives you the most protection overall the UVA-B rays. It is best used in conjunction with an antioxidant serum, such as C-Tetra by Medik8. If you are using a chemical block, know that it doesn’t work all day long. You will need to reapply. Wear a hat with a good wide brim. To ensure your chemical blocks work well, to keep them cool, as the heat degrades the chemical actives.
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Beauty | Q&A
APPEARANCE MEDICINE DOCTOR Doctor Catherine Stone
MAKEUP ARTIST Chay Roberts
The Face Place in Auckland.
WHAT’S YOUR SUMMER MANTRA REGARDING PRODUCTS AND TREATMENTS? Protect, protect, protect. You will spend less time and money on having to reverse damage caused by the sun (lines, wrinkles, pigmentation, redness, dryness and dehydration) if you protect your skin during the summer months.
WHAT INGREDIENTS ARE BEST USED ON SKIN DURING SUMMER? Applying sunscreen is so important all-year-round, and especially during summer. However, not all sunscreens are created equal. Look for complete spectrum UV protection ingredients that protect from all levels of damaging UV rays like our Ultraceuticals SunActive range. If you are going to be in the sun for long periods of time, ensure that the sunscreen is water resistant too. Antioxidants are also crucial to prevent against premature ageing caused by free radical damage, which we get from the sun, computers, cell phones and pollution – to name a few culprits. Ferulic acid is an amazing antioxidant that, combined with other antioxidants and exposed to UV light, increases its antioxidant protection. It’s also important to make sure the skin gets enough moisture while it’s warmer. Look for ingredients that mimic the skins natural moisturising factor, like ceramides, lipids and hyaluronic acid. These work to stimulate the skin’s own moisturising ability, instead of just applying hydration to the superficial layers of the skin.
WHAT IS THE ONE WAY TO KEEP SKIN LOOKING HYDRATED WHEN THE TEMPERATURE RISES?
PHOTOGRAPHY shutterstock and supplied
A daily (urban) sunscreen like Ultraceuticals Ultra UV Protective Daily Moisturiser SPF30 that includes moisturiser in it and means fewer layers of product, and plenty of hydration without being too greasy.
WHAT’S YOUR ADVICE REGARDING THE T YPE OF PRODUCTS TO USE IN THE HEAT? Always use products that work well with your skin type. Drier skin will need to consider more hydration, and oily skin types. Seek out a product which offers more shine control. Always use an SPF to keep the skin protected from the ravages of the sun. Choose products that are designed to be long-wearing or water-resistant. There are so many amazing options for face, lips and eyes. Avoid excess shine and go minimal with high beam highlighters and bronzers. Let that 'natural glow' do its thing.
WHAT ARE THE BEST APPLICATION TIPS TO STOP PRIMERS, FOUNDATION AND BLUSH FROM SLIDING OFF SKIN? Keep your application minimal and layer your base products lightly. Ensure that your primer and foundation don't clash. A silicone or oil-based primer is water-resistant and will create slip under a water base foundation. A moisturiser or primer that is water based must have time to absorb completely into the skin before a silicone-based foundation can be applied. Apply or blend each of your base products with your favourite brush or fingers but finish by dabbing with a dry sponge to absorb excess product. It aids in pressing the product into the skin to create a smooth and flawless finish.
WHAT IS THE BEST WAY TO KEEP SKIN LOOKING SHINE-FREE IN THE HEAT? Keep blot paper or a lightweight powder with you for shine control throughout the day.
WHAT IS YOUR BEST SUMMER BEAUT Y TIP?
WHAT IS YOUR BEST SUMMER BEAUTY TIP?
Less is more
Protect your skin from UV rays and free radical damage now, there will be less visible signs of ageing later. Prevention is better than cure.
Below: MAC Cosmetics Pro Preformance Sponge.
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Beauty | EYE OF HORUS
Eye of Horus The demand for vegan beauty is on the rise. Trudi Brewer speaks to Holly Spierings co-founder of Eye of Horus on why this brand is on every nature lovers list.
Vegan makeup is becoming an emerging trend, and there is an increasing demand from consumers choosing to use natural makeup rather than products with animal ingredients. We have worked hard with our manufacturers to produce a highperformance product that is 98% Organic with still all the benefits of chemical cosmetics. We are consciously striving to become a 100% Vegan and cruelty-free company, and we are always looking at ways to improve our manufacturing processes to remain ethical and environmentally friendly.
HOW DID YOU COME UP WITH THE CONCEPT AND THE NAME? The iconic Eye of Horus range takes its inspiration from the Ancient Egyptians who wore eye makeup because they believed that it had magical power. They lined their eyes with black kohl creating an almond-shaped eye - The symbol of Eye of Horus was thought to protect their eyes as well as providing a statement of beauty. The Eye of Horus Award winning range focuses exclusively on the eye, which became the Eye of Horus symbol, and includes our hero mascara, liquid liners, a range of pencils, brow range, and the popular Italian baked powder eyeshadows.
WHAT WAS YOUR FIRST PRODUCT AND HOW DID YOU MAKE IT? Our Goddess Mascara was the first product released in the range and remains our hero product, with some beauty awards to its name. To develop the Mascara, we took our wish list of ingredients to a renowned cosmetic manufacturer who produced the product for us; from here the other eye products in the range were released modelled on the same theme and formulations. All Eye of Horus products are based on sacred formulas borrowed from the ancient past and include organic Moringa Oil, “Oil of the Pharaoh’s”, claimed by the gods for its beautifying and regenerating powers and the key ingredients in the Mascara include rice bran, beeswax, candellila and carnauba wax.
WHO IS THE BRAND TARGETED AT? We have positioned ourselves as niche, but we have become a must have an affordable, yet premium brand. Our customers range from youth to mature, with an emphasis on natural ingredients and non-irritating formulas. Our price point
is mid-range and due to our natural and vegan-friendly products we can cross over from salon into the ever-growing health market. Our demographics include the educated woman, who is after quality cosmetics, informed in beauty environmentally aware and cruelty -free conscious.
DO YOU THINK NATURAL COSMETICS ARE AS EFFICACIOUS AS MAINSTREAM MAKEUP BRANDS? Absolutely, there are some amazing innovative formulas and high-performance products in the marketplace that are not only 100 percent natural and organic but due to their quality ingredients they have the capacity to outperform mainstream makeup. We are lucky to be working alongside some of the most progressive and state of the art manufacturers worldwide. We travel the world to beauty tradeshows and meet with our manufactures to ensure we are at the forefront of new trends and innovations in beauty.
WHAT NEW PRODUCTS ARE YOU WORKING ON RIGHT NOW? In 2017 we plan to expand our Bio Vegan range into Lipsticks, Bio Lip gloss and a Lip Serum. We are also expanding our eye range with a release of cream stick shadows and working on some innovative Brow products. We are constantly looking to improve our formulas, for example, we have started introducing plant-based peptides to promote brow and lash growth into the mascaras and brow products
“All Eye of Horus products are based on sacred formulas borrowed from the ancient past”
WHAT IS YOUR FAVOURITE PRODUCT AND WHY? Our daily versatile go-to product is the ISIS Sun Goddess Palette for so many reasons. This product is Italian baked powder that is hand pressed with the ability to be used wet or dry. You can apply it with water for a more intense colour payoff for evening or use it dry for a beautiful soft, day look. Isis Sun Goddess palette can also be used as a bronzer and highlighter by sweeping a bronzing brush along the three shades. It adds a stunning glow to cheeks. It is the perfect multi-purpose palette.
PHOTOGRAPHY Shutterstock and supplied
WHY DID YOU CREATE VEGAN MAKEUP?
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goddess COSMETICS
Illuminating cosmetics designed for the Goddess based on ancient sacred formulations. NON SENSITISING. CREASE-PROOF. LONG WEARING.
eyeofhoruscosmetics.com
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Headway | PROMOTION
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Beauty | SMOOTH MOVES
Smooth Moves
Cellulite is a curse, and come summer it’s the one body problem, most of us would like to shift. Here’s how to deal to those dimples.
WHAT’S THE DEAL /WITH CELLULITE? There are many factors that contribute to cellulite, including hormones and lack of muscle tone. One cause that’s acknowledged by many includes poor circulation. “Cellulite is a micro-circulation problem and can be genetic. The actual cause of cellulite occurs internally with the weakening of the skin cells and connective tissue,” explains Taryn Johnstone, National Trainer at Caci Clinic. According to Johnstone, as our skin ages and suffers damage from the environment, it loses its essential water and weakens. This causes the skin to deteriorate and dehydrate to the point where buoyant fat cells trapped just below the surface of the skin can push into the dermis and show through, which is what gives skin that a bumpy texture.
WHO CAN GET CELLULITE? When we mentioned that cellulite was much more common than you probably realised, we weren’t exaggerating. Experts estimate that about 80 – 90% of women experience some form of cellulite in their lifetime. Plus there’s a reason that we specifically mentioned women. While women’s collagen is arranged in parallel rows, like pillars, men’s collagen is arranged in an x-pattern, creating only very small fat compartments, making it harder for dimpling of the skin. Unfair, we know!
PHOTOGRAPHY Shutterstock and supplied
WHAT CAN YOU DO ABOUT IT? We hate to be the bearer of bad news, but there is no permanent cure for cellulite (yet). It’s impossible at this point to make it disappear completely, but as always there are several lifestyle choices, treatments and products that can help reduce its appearance quite significantly. As always, eating well and regular exercise is always a great idea. “Cellulite can often be made worse with a build-up of toxins in the body (such as alcohol). To help your blood vessels detoxify these toxins, drinking plenty of water is key” says Johnstone. If you’re after a “right now” fix, self-tan and bronzers can make cellulite less noticeable.
For best results try to find products that include caffeine to stimulate, and nourishing, skin-building ingredients like amino acids, hyaluronic acid, peptides, and organic stem cells, to name a few. These will help firm skin and support cellular regeneration. Products containing caffeine provide a topical slimming stimulant. Johnstone recommends the Murad Firm & Tone and Youth Builder product ranges, specifically designed to enhance the skin’s smoothness and firmness to reduce the appearance of dimpled skin. Another product is sunscreen. UV rays can damage collagen, making cellulite that much more noticeable, so slather on that SPF over summer.
WHAT ABOUT TREATMENTS? There are a few treatment options here in New Zealand that focus on the reduction of cellulite. But it’s important to do your homework to find out what will work best for you (and your wallet). Endermologie uses mechano-stimulation to breakdown the fat with circulation, lymphatic drainage while activating the collagen and elastin production in the skin. Radio Frequency Body Treatment, stimulates collagen production and improves circulation, which in turn improves the look and tone of the skin. For those on a tighter budget, Johnstone says massage can also be beneficial. “Massage the area once or twice a day in circular motions, with a slight uplifting motion towards the upper body. This will improve blood flow and encourage water drainage in the lymph nodes.”
Try: 1 Murad Firm & Tone Cellulite Serum. 2 Decléor Aromessence Svelt. 3 Guinot Orange Peel Skin Body Scrub. 4 Environ Body Profile. 5 Clarins Body Lift Cellulite Smoother. 6 Sothys Essential Slimming Care. 1
3 2
4
6 5
ARE THERE PRODUCTS OUT THERE THAT COULD HELP? Cellulite can take some extra work to combat, so it’s important to have specific products in your beauty arsenal. HEADWAY.NET.NZ 18
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Beauty | TAN
Golden glow Professional spray tanning is an art. Trudi Brewer finds out how to perfect this summer service.
S
pray tannning is a skill that requires practise and precision. Kelly Campbell a St.Tropez skin finishing expert shares her advice to help prefect your skills.
WHAT ARE THE TRENDS WHEN IT COMES TO COLOUR? The current trend for colour is a healthy natural-looking golden tan with a luminous glow. St Tropez new Luxe Oil, in both professional spray solution and retail products, contains Brazil oil and provides the perfect balance of colour and sheen. Also ,contouring using professional tanning mist on the face, torso and legs help you create a customised professional tan for each client.
WHAT ARE THE STEPS EVERY SPRAY TANNER SHOULD FOLLOW TO ACHIEVE A GREAT, NATURAL-LOOKING RESULT? • For an ultra-even, streak-free self-tan, always make sure you are working with a clean canvas. We like to follow these steps. • Your client should have removed any old self-tan build up before the next tan. • Exfoliate 24 hours before and ensure skin is well hydrated. • Check for any areas that may have been missed during the application. • Ensure you wipe palms and soles of feet with a moist towelette wipe over nails beds on the hands and feet. • For best results, we recommend that you use St Tropez foot protectors to prevent tan getting on the soles of the feet. • Offer aftercare advice on how to moisturise daily, to prolong the tan at home. By following these steps every time, this will ensure they get the most out of their spray tan.
WHAT ARE THE BIGGEST MISTAKES YOU SEE WITH SPRAY TANNING? The most common mistake would be spraying too closely. Typically, the recommended distance is about 20cm. If you do not keep the spray gun at the proper distance, or if you move the spray gun suddenly or at uneven speeds, it can cause the tan to be uneven, blotchy, streaky, or spotty.
AND HOW CAN YOU PROLONG THAT FAUX GLOW? • Ideally wait six to eight hours after the spray tan has been applied before showering – the longer you leave the tan on skin, the darker the result. • Avoid washing your hands or feet for two hours following the tan. • Try not to get too hot and sweaty immediately afterward, avoid a workout or hot tubs. • Wear loose baggy clothes to ensure the tan can develop freely and not be rubbed off by tight waistbands or bra straps. • Once you have showered, you will notice the bronze guide colour washing away, leaving you looking tanned and glowing underneath. • The tan will continue to develop over the next 24 hours. • Keeping skin well moisturised following your treatment will increase the longevity of the tan, ensuring that it fades evenly and doesn’t become patchy. • Try and use a gentle body wash so that the tan is not stripped away by the chemicals in your soap or shower gels.
WHAT IS THE ONE TANNING TIP YOU ALWAYS FIND YOURSELF SHARING? Rather than shaving right before tanning, shave a few hours before tanning. If a client shaves immediately before hand, the skin may still be irritated from the shaving process and may react with the tanning solution.
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PHOTOGRAPHY Shutterstock
pre - tan check list
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• Make sure you shower and exfoliate well the day before or day of your spray tan. • Do not apply any moisturisers, fragrances or deodorant after showering as these can form a barrier to the spray tan solution and will reduce the ability to apply an even colour all over. • Wax and shave at least one to two days before your tanning treatment. • Wear loose, dark clothes, nothing too tight that could rub where the tan is developing on your skin. • Bring jandals or similar open-toed shoes to wear after a tan.
10/12/16 3:55 PM
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CLARINS Delicious Self Tanning Cream
Ideal for the face and body enriched with cocoa bean, this tanner can be applied with a mitt or your palms, and it delivers a streak-free look every application.
BRONZE
3
SOTHYS Face and Body Tanning Enhancer
QUEEN For those getting to grips with a seamless DIY tan, choosing a tinted option ensures a streak-free, result while delivering instant colour. Here's our choice of top tinted tanners
The scent of this tanner is exquisite, no pungent aroma with this lotion. And while it offers believable looking colour, it also helps prolong the bronze on skin.
4
JANE IREDALE Tantasia
Jane Irelandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s stroke-free Tantasia self tan builds a gradual, natural looking tan within three days. With beautiful fresh citrus fragrance, you won't be left reeking of fake tan.
5
SKINNY TAN Body Mousse
Organic coconut oil and cellulitefighting guarana, give this tinted oil the jump other self-tanners. Designed to offer lasting bronze colour and a hydrating glow to the skin - this is one of the most outstanding tans we have tried.
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DECLĂ&#x2030;OR Aroma Sun Expert Self-tanning Milk Natural Glow
The powdery summer fragrance and cell renewal benefits that keep dry skin at bay is the reason this self-tan is known in beauty circles as a girl's best friend.
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ST TROPEZ Gradual Tan Tinted Think of this self-tan as a body lotion with benefits. It is ultra-hydrating, and then gradually builds to create a healthy-looking, sun-kissed glow. Designed to be applied daily to blur imperfections by giving skin the most natural-looking glow.
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let your inner beauty glō GLŌ MINERALS MAKEUP CLINICAL SKINCARE WITH COLOR
Call us for more information on our product range or to find out how you can become a stockist of glō-minerals 0800 105 107 • E info@selfcaregroup.co.nz •
facebook.com/GloMineralsNZ
Beauty | TREND
Fuzz-free
Wax off | Quick (depending on your pain tolerance) and one of the cheaper options available, waxing is suitable for almost everyone According to Samantha Jones, Training and Development Manager at Off Wax & Laser. “Shaving cuts the hair at the skin’s surface, resulting in a quick regrowth time with hair often reappearing within a day or two. Waxing hairs from the root not only means you get a smoother finish but a longer regrowth time of three – six weeks.” Regular appointments are key to ensuring good results. “Ideally we like to get the hair between four and six weeks depending on your personal growth cycle,” says Jones. And this is due to the way hair grows. “There are three stages of hair: growing, resting and transitional. We aim to remove as much hair as we can when it is in this active or growth phase, as this provides better longevity and maximises the clean results,” explains Jones. As always, listen to the experts and follow the aftercare instructions, which includes exfoliating and moisturising regularly. Unless you have a very high threshold for pain, there is the ouch factor that is associated with waxing. Jones suggests avoiding stimulants like caffeine or caffeine-fuelled energy drinks and try popping a couple of Panadol thirty minutes before your appointment. “We recommend avoiding waxing three to four days prior and during your period. Don’t shave between appointments and regular exfoliation is ideal for avoiding ingrown hairs.
There are three stages of hair: growing, resting and transitional.
Light saver | If waxing just isn’t for you, you could try Intense Pulsed Light hair removal (more commonly known as IPL), which provides permanent hair reduction. IPL systems deliver many wavelengths in each pulse of light, targeting specific areas and concerns, i.e unwanted hair growth. You may have seen a bunch of deals pop up a few years ago offering a course of treatments at a fraction of the cost. But as always, it’s important to ensure that your skin is in the care of a trusted professional, as some of those deals may offer inferior imported machines. The downside? Those with fair hair and darker skin tones may not find IPL hair reduction effective. As the hair lacks pigment, it’s not possible for the lasers to identify the hair follicles and destroy them. It’s always best practice to consult with a professional beforehand to see if you’ll be a good candidate. You’ll also need to factor in a course, and four to six sessions for best results. Electrolysis | For something a little bit more permanent or if you’re not a good candidate for IPL (if you have lighter hair or dark skin), then electrolysis is the option for you. According to Robynne Cabusao, co-owner of Beverley Hills Skin & Body, and former electrolysis tutor at the Joyce Blok Institute (now Elite), there are many benefits to this method of hair removal. Electrolysis works by inserting a fine needle into the hair follicle and applying an electric current to destroy the root. “This treatment can safely be used to remove hair from most parts of the body, except inside of the nostrils and inner ear, and is effective on all skin and hair types,” says Cabusao. She adds: “Almost anyone wanting to remove unwanted hair is a candidate.” According to Cabusao, electrolysis doesn’t target hair pigment like a laser but kills the pesky follicle itself. So expect to make a commitment to see results, which is why it is ideal for smaller areas, such as facial hair.
PHOTOGRAPHY Shutterstock
As the temperature rises, it’s time to ask the question: To wax or invest in laser…oh, and how about electrolysis? With so many different methods of hair removal, Sharleen Singh investigates the options.
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P001_MonoDerma_NZ highres.pdf
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P001_MonoDerma_NZ highres.pdf
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Pure Vitamin Skincare for Radiant Skin
NEW SKINCARE RANGE
Single-dose dermocosmetic skincare capsules containing pure vitamins in their most active and potent form Achieve radiance, hydrate and fight the visible signs of aging with MonoDermà’s ® unique formulations. With its patented biodegradable shell MonoDermoDose , MonoDermà guarantees optimal concentrations that are free from preservatives, colourants and fragrances. For details on becoming a stockist or for more information contact us on: T: 0800 105 107 | E:info@selfcaregroup.co.nz | selfcaregroupNZ | www.selfcaregroup.co.nz
1 Beauty | RESOLUTIONS
NEW YEAR BEAUTY RESOLUTIONS
1. Double cleansing Likened to the arduous task of flossing your teeth, double cleansing is an essential for skin health. And much like flossing, it needs to become a daily ritual. Whether you opt to use a pre-cleanse, followed by your regular cleanser, or double cleanse with your favourite, good cleansing habits have never been so on-trend. 2. Latest healthy option Korean beauty innovations have come from the most ordinary to extraordinary sources; from eggs to snail slime and broccoli, and now the humble artichoke. It’s not a new thing for Korean beauty treatments to contain natural ingredients, but we are seeing the efficacy and fast-acting results improving with the addition of these strange edible ingredients. Artichoke is known for its ability to improve elasticity in the skin and tighten pores. Look out for a slew of creams and lotions brimming with vegetable goodness. 3. Sheet Masks Not a new thing, but certainly on most therapist radars, sheet masks have long been a favourite for their ability to hydrate, soften and replenish parched skin. But these ghostly-looking sheets have had a revamp and they now pack more punch than ever. We are seeing a surge of masks that go above and beyond the call of duty with their powerhouse of ingredients and effectiveness. Some even offering six mini-masks to apply to the face, versus the often-claustrophobic feeling of one large cloth option. These allow you to tailor the application to where your skin needs it most. And don’t be fooled into thinking these nifty things only offer hydration; they are also excellent for exfoliating and anti-ageing. 4. Mists Not only do they refresh and cool skin, they are an essential step in a good hydrating routine. Formulated first in Korea, the epicenter of all things beauty, this year they will come with amazing skincare benefits and not just hydration. Brightening, calming and detoxifying mists, which are often more like a gel water, are here to stay. 5. Harder working makeup Our lives are more frantic than ever and we are all searching for ways to shave time off our beauty regime – enter a new breed of makeup with benefits. A simple lip stain is not enough these days; we are looking for options that stain the lips and offer nourishing benefits. Coming soon; highlighting creams that offer anti-ageing, smoothing benefits, and foundations that are combined skin-correcting serums. 6. Internal Supplements In a world that is so fixated on youth, we should also be taking the time to consider what we could be putting into our bodies and not just on our skin. Beauty supplements are on the rise. Whether you crave a collagen burst, a firming or toning hit, pill-popping is in fashion. 7. Stem Cells What has until now been tested on repairing sports injured joints such as knees and elbows, the beauty world is looking to stem cell therapy as the new panacea for ageing - and we could not be more intrigued. Designed to repair the collagen and elastic structure in the skin, this sci-fi approach to beauty is, in our opinion, just the beginning of a fascinating new way to reverse the signs of ageing from the inside out. 8. Lip enhancement Less is more when it comes to the lip enhancement trend. And in the UK, the term ‘Da Vinci lips’ describes it perfectly. This is where your lip proportion is in relation to your nose, jaw and chin. A rule appearance medicine doctors refer to as the golden ratio, which is 1 to 1.618, a proportion Renaissance artists considered perfection when relating to the human physique. That ratio has a lot to do with the natural symmetry and balance of lips in their natural state, where the bottom lip is slightly larger than the top. However, this is one feature that is often overinflated. The idea is lips are given the smallest amount of volume to create a slightly ‘glossed’ look, a very natural ‘refreshed’ look. And the best bit, a subtle treatment like this can last up to a year. 9. Enzymes If it’s good enough for celebrities, it’s good enough for us. Enzyme therapy is the latest treatment trend with the ‘it crowd’. Designed to detox, thanks to enzymes sourced from organic fruits, vegetables, mushrooms and seaweed, these rituals, while not cheap treatments to try, can offer benefits of a better nights sleep, weight loss, ease in muscular pain - and a renewed look to skin from the neck down. 10. Anti-Pollution It’s one of those trends that almost had us thinking, why did this take so long to create? Pollution is not a new thing and here in New Zealand we are not as pure as we think. Ranges boasting this technology already exist, with Clarins one of the first to promote this technology. There are a raft of as skin shields launching that are tipped to be the future of anti-ageing skincare.
PHOTOGRAPHY Shutterstock and supplied.
From sheet masks to skin mists and the new lip enhancement that is promotes classic beauty, here is a taste of the exciting beauty innovations for the year ahead.
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Beauty | Q&A
High Tech Beauty When it comes international appearance medicine trends, Dr Catherine Stone is at the forefront of change.
1 LABIAL ENHANCEMENT WITH PRP. The sexual rejuvenation trend continues, with the use of PRP to enhance the appearance of the external female genitals - the labia and mons pubis. We currently use PRP as the O-Shot to improve orgasms and leaky bladder, but until now, improving the plumpness of the labia has been the domain of the injectable fillers (the ‘labial puff’ technique). Several presentations also spoke about using PRP to improve vaginal dryness by enhancing lubrication. Some great cases were presented, and although the PRP takes longer to work than filler, it’s using elements of your blood, so it wins on safety factor. We’re looking forward to trialling it.
2 BODY CONTOURING WITH PRP AND FAT. This was a very interesting presentation by a Hollywood doctor, Dr Jason Emer. PRP was mixed with fat grafts and implanted into the muscles of the chest, shoulders, abs and butt to bulk up the muscles and provide contour. This body fat is harvested from another region of the body, so it sounds like the perfect treatment - take fat from where we don’t want it, and put it where we do want it.
3 PRP FOR ALOPECIA AREATA (PATCHY HAIR LOSS). We’ve known about using PRP for hair loss for about three or four years now, but its focus has been on Androgenetic Alopecia (the standard male and female pattern hair loss). Alopecia Areata is an autoimmune condition that causes loss of hair in patches. New research is showing that PRP can be effective in treating this condition. And studies have shown that using Viviscal® (a hair supplement) or Minoxidil (Regaine®) in conjunction with PRP provides can expect
better results than just PRP alone. It makes sense, but great that the research now supports this.
4 ICE COLD FACIALS WITH CRYOTHERAPY Cryotherapy, or the use of freezing ice-cold temperatures to stimulate blood flow, is commonly used in sports therapy to improve recovery and stimulate the growth of lean muscle mass. Last year we saw cryotherapy facials using an icecold stream of air directed onto the face. This year the use of frozen metal balls are rolled onto the face to stimulate blood flow; the mechanical action of rolling, and increased blood flow to the small capillaries generated by the icy temperatures. Our skin and blood vessels constrict when they become very cold, and then compensate as they warm up by the blood vessels opening wider. This results in better oxygenation to the skin. Using the ‘ice balls’ also allows the therapist to massage treatment serums into the skin at the same time. This treatment is one to watch, and we are currently playing with some different ways of doing an ‘Ice Facial’. If it works, we hope to launch it in the New Year at The Face Place.
5 PRP FOR VISION We learn’t about using PRP eye drops for dry eyes at the last BioBridge meeting, and more comprehensive research was presented by the same team of Spanish eye specialists again this year. But the real ‘eye-opener’ (excuse the pun!) was using cellular therapies to restore or stabilise vision by helping the body to repair the cells of the retina in those who had retinal degeneration. These increased uses of cellular therapies, such as PRP, is quite mind blowing. Watch this space. Dr Stone attends these conferences: Biobridge (PRP conference) in Venice. CODE - Aesthetic Anatomy Course in Toulouse. CCR Expo (over 6000 attendees) in London (Clinical Cosmetic & Reconstructive Expo 2016).
PHOTOGRAPHY Shutterstock and supplied.
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fter her recent trips to two European conferences, she has highlighted five global trends that are both insightful and fascinating. By Dr Catherine Stone from The Face Place.
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Headway Beauty | SKIN | PROMOTION PRO - FECTION
Skin PR -fection Today results-focused skin care is what women are hunting for. Trudi Brewer chats with Tracy May-Harriott Elizabeth Arden Pro’s International Director of Education on what’s new and the summer essentials.
WHAT'S THE NUMBER ONE PRODUCT FOR SUMMER? Triple Action Protector. And it’s the hero product of the brand and also a first of its kind. It offers three different levels of skin protection, and not just during summer but all year round. The first an antioxidant complex, that helps blur the appearance of those signs of ageing; a DNA enzyme complex to boost the repair process in the skin and powerful antioxidants to help protect the natural moisture barrier, which is so important when you're outdoors. And the presence of a skin tint that blends seamlessly with most skin colourings to offer just a little bit of coverage to even out your complexion.
WHAT ABOUT BRIGHTENING AND LIFTING PIGMENTATION? Skin Brightening Serum is preventative on melanin clusters within the skin. It has seven tyrosinase inhibitors in the formulation. Many brands offer one, which is what you are looking for when searching for a de-pigment product, but we have seven. Including a new retinoid, that our founder Joe Lewis patented when we launched the brand, this is the first time a retinoid conjugate has had development in over a decade. You can use this retinoid
both day and night day. It’s user-friendly, as long as the Triple Action Protector is applied over the top during the day.
AND THE BRIGHTENING PADS? They’re designed to work on pigment so you can use them once a week as an intensive treatment. If it starts to tingle, then you can just cut back. A lot of the time we have the face covered, but you can use these on the back of your hands or your neck, which also helps with clarity of skin on these areas.
WHAT'S NEW IN 2017? Early February we will introduce Age Defying Eye Cream; with two new peptides, designed to stimulate collagen and rebuild and strengthen the skin, as well as an antioxidant peptide, which acts to tighten the skin. The product itself is semi-solid thanks to a mango seed extract, so it melts onto the skinlike butter. And we are launching a new Illuminating Enzyme Mask that has been designed to brighten and lighten skin. With pumpkin, papaya, and pineapple enzymes, these combined offer a 20 percent strength exfoliation. The great thing is that enzymes only want to eat dead skin; they are like a vacuum, which leaves skin feeling soft and hydrated. There is also black willow bark, which is an all-natural salicylic acid and has a nice deep cleansing affect on the skin, as well as chlorogenic acid, which is an antioxidant found in nature that works to de-pigment the skin. Both are being used in the new facial treatments in the salon. Come autumn these will be an excellent combination to brighten and strengthen skin. Stockist enquires info@selfcaregroup.co.nz or freephone 0800 105 107.
PHOTOGRAPHY Shutterstock and supplied
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one are the days where pampering is all clients want from a skincare service. Most women are looking for a change in the way their skin looks and feels. A boost in hydration and the reduction of pigmentation is on the wish list. Here’s the products to make that happen.
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MAKE SKIN AGING AN URBAN MYTH DEFEND YOUR SKIN AGAINST POLLUTION’S HARMFUL EFFECTS TRIPLE ACTION PROTECTOR With sunscreens, antioxidants and DNA Enzyme Complex™, its pollution-fighting powers simply make it a “non-negotiable” step for protecting your skin. HYDRATING ANTIOXIDANT SPRAY Contains powerful anti-pollution antioxidants and Hyaluronic Acid in a hydrating, refreshing formula.
For more information or to become a stockist of Elizabeth Arden PRO contact Self Care Group at: info@selfcaregroup.co.nz or Phone 0800 105 107
For a treatment that promises smooth skin and real improvement in digestion, there is a Japanese Enzyme spa in Auckland that is one of a kind, says Trudi Brewer
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would have passed Ikoi Spa at least five times, before walking up the stairs to book in. And it was only after a conversation with a girlfriend I found myself in a spa that is truly like no other. Located at 1 Huron Street in Auckland's Takapuna is Ikoi Enzyme Therapy Japanese Day Spa. Ikoi in Japanese means to rest and recharge energy, and that is exactly what happens once you disappear behind the luxurious glass doors. After changing into a paper bra and boxer pants, the treatment starts with a fruity enzyme drink, which tastes a little like a fermented fruity wine. And I am guided into a room with an earthy smelling sawdust bath.
WHAT IS IT? An enzyme spa is a heated bed of compost that helps to break down toxins in the skin. A very simple explanation for what is a unique and decadent treatment that is highly sought after in Japan. The dry enzyme bath at Ikoi is a blend of rice bran, pinewood sawdust and Japanese enzymes carefully sourced from organic fruits, vegetables, mushrooms and seaweeds grown in Hokkaido, Japan. This mixture is carefully kept at a constant heat of between 65 to 75 degrees Celsius. This heat is naturally occurring due to the enzymes break down. The mix is refreshed every few days and turned with a garden fork before you slip in and get buried chest deep in a bed of woody goodness.
IKOI SPA
Beauty | SPA
â&#x20AC;&#x153;Ikoi in Japanese means to rest and recharge energy. And that is exactly what happens once you disappear behind the luxurious glass doors.â&#x20AC;?
sweat. For anyone who may be claustrophobic or sauna-phobic, rest assured the therapist does not leave your side while you're fermenting in the enzymes. And during the fermenting process, a scalp and shoulder acupressure massage took my mind of the little itches I experience. I'm told this is due to enzymes eating away the dry, dead skin. During the spa, cold towels are pressed onto the face and neck to keep your body temperature even. After 15 minutes I was encouraged to sit up and move my arms, while the enzymes were pressed into my shoulders and neck to help loosen the tension of those tight, overused muscles.
WHY DO WE LIKE IT? After a dry body brushing to dust off the enzymes, and a glass of cool water, it takes around 10 minutes for your body temperature to cool, and the hot shower that follows is heavenly. You do need to move slowly as you rise from the enzyme bed. I had to sit down in the rainforest style shower. I did feel slightly light-headed, but it does pass quickly. The reason being this treatment has the same effect on the body as a 5k run. So the slip into a massage bed for the last part of this treatment with my choice of uplifting citrus essential oils was divine. After a full body massage, I floated back out to the relaxation area, the finishing touch another enzyme juice, green tea and a sweet Japanese biscuit. The treatment lasts around 60 minutes and while your skin will be so smooth and hydrated post treatment, the long-term benefits include a lightness about the body that feels amazing; a jolly good night's sleep follows. This spa is gorgeous; every room is crafted from cedar and natural wood and has an authentic Japanese touch, and the tiles and bathroom accessories are super luxe. It's also an experience you will not forget. And unlike many treatments I've trailled, I don't often rebook before leave - with Ikoi I can't wait for my next visit. Allow 60 minutes, visit www.ikoispa.co.nz
HOW DOES IT BENEFIT SKIN? Our bodies have over 5000 kinds of vital enzymes, all of which have different functions to assist the breakdown of toxins. The blend of enzymes at Ikoi not only aid clearer, healthier skin, but also relieves any muscular pain, helps with weight loss, improves sleep and increases energy levels. And while it is doing all of the above, boy do you 31 HEADWAY.NET.NZ
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COSMECEUTIQUE RANGE. YOUR SKIN RECOVERY SOLUTION AFTER A DERMO-AESTHETIC PROCEDURE.
EFFICIENCY CLINICALLY PROVEN BY DERMATOLOGISTS ON SKIN THAT HAS UNDERGONE A DERMO-AESTHETIC PROCEDURE
REGENERATIVE SOLUTION
REDNESS REBALANCING AMPOULES
REGENERATIVE AMPOULES
REPAIR BALM
VISIT
SOTHYS.CO.NZ FOR YOUR NEAREST SOTHYS CLINIC
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Business | SPA RETREAT
Tierra Santa Healing House at Faena Hotel Miami Beach Be inspired as Sharleen Singh introduces you to a slice of Latin luxury on Miami Beach in Florida.
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irst of its kind. Bringing with it a flair for creativity and primal beauty, Tierra Santa Healing House is a one-of-a-kind South American-inspired spa (the first in the USA) at Faena Hotel Miami Beach, dedicated to the art of well-being. Created by the revolutionary at heart, Alan Faena, who has made an unforgettable mark across a range of industries including hospitality, fashion and art to name a few, this spa is a unique combination of holistic healing, fitness and relaxation.
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Headway | PROMOTION
EXCEPTIONALLY UNIQUE With a concept inspired by Faenaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s picturesque beach house in Uruguay, the colourful yet understated spa was designed with nature in mind. Featuring stunning floral murals by artist Juan Gatti, and paper art installations by Manuel Ameztoy, every detail has been thoughtfully curated.
ENJOY THE VIEW With direct access to the pool and beach, the 22,000-square-foot oceanfront Tierra Santa Healing House offers five multi-functional treatment rooms, two oceanfront treatment suites, including one couples suite, with outdoor terraces and spectacular views of Miami Beach and the Atlantic Ocean.
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Business | SPA RETREAT
WELCOME ADDITIONS The spa also features a state-of-the-art fitness studio, a 1000 square-foot yoga studio as well as daily fitness classes outdoors on Faena Hotelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s grounds and beach club. Tierra Santa also boasts a salon which offers a range of services including manicures, pedicures, hair and makeup.
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COME ON A JOURNEY The Tierra Santa journey begins in the wet spa, the largest of its kind in Miami, offering guests a unique journey through temperature changes designed to promote relaxation and detoxification. Upon entering, guests are given a piece of hand-blended Tierra Santa soap with an exfoliating mitt and guided by a therapist guests can create their heat and steam journey. They move on to the Waterfall showers, then the Hammam, which features a communal area for quiet relaxation, and the Herbal Steam Room, which offers aromatherapy to support advanced detox. The wet spa also includes two wet scrub treatment rooms, a multi-tiered sauna, a chill room with an ice fountain and a Tepidarium, where guests can recline on heated stone beds to gently return the body to its normal temperature.
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The
Real Deal – a bit of a rant about online shopping
Anne O’Brien, who considers shopping to be more relaxing than yoga, comments on e-commerce and the rules of engagement.
“The majority of shoppers now insist on 100 percent authenticity particularly at the prestige end of the market.”
PHOTOGRAPHY Shutterstock and supplied.
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kay, is it just me? Have I missed some important consumer announcement? When did we officially start embracing ‘Black Friday’ in New Zealand? Did someone change our holiday calendar after the US elections? For some reason this e-commerce phenomenon seemed to be more outrageous than ever this year. Of course I was aware of it previously and just as Boxing Day ‘Sales’ have now become validation for gifting monetary vouchers at Christmas (not something I like but see the practicality of) ‘Black Friday’ seems to have entrenched itself in our shopping psyche. My working space (i.e. PC and small emporium of beauty) was invaded with such vengeance this year that yes I did look online and yes, I did try to buy at 50 percent off and yes it did crash my computer. All jokes aside (because who shops online at work right?) the ‘Black Friday’ campaign unleashed all our varying sales personalities when the team chatted about it over a shared lunch a couple of days later. Our sophisticated-technology wise and immune to all traditional marketing pitches millennials (aka the Millie’s) are very accommodating of our Generation X’s (or the Sex and the City fans as we like to call ourselves). They will direct us to authentic sites and passionately debate the merits of buying from your own smartphone. Every Carrie Bradshaw in the office does from time to time shop online (My Food Bag
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Beauty | BUSINESS
Rule No 2
e
ule er
number 1.
Rule No 1 – If it’s too good to be true, then it is.
–s
does count apparently) but for them, this is not really shopping. They prefer the experience of visiting the outlet and the human contact as much as the products themselves. What we all agreed on over delicious fresh sushi was that a) online purchasing is part of our lifestyle now and it wasn’t going to go away, b) the products should incur gst and c) only sites that are endorsed by the producers, designers and owners of the products are used regardless of the age of the buyer – ‘I only buy real’. This I found fascinating as what the conversation revealed was that consumers have matured over the years and observe rule number 1 of internet shopping which is - ‘If it looks too good to be true then it is’. We know the majority of shoppers now insist on 100% authenticity, particularly at the prestige end of the market – our market as it happens. As beauty and hair professionals, and of course retailers, this consumer shift in attitude is massive. The key lies with our ability to make sure we only work with suppliers and experts who protect us from the expired, counterfeit and, I am sorry to be so blunt but absolute rubbish that is available via some sites on the internet. There is only one way to continue to educate our consumers on the right way to support us and our businesses and that is to insist that only authorised retail outlets can have access to our brands. The supply houses need to be open and transparent about what they are doing to protect us and we need to be prepared for what global telecommunications will mean for us in the future. There will be more ‘Black Friday’ scenarios and we need to work with the houses that look to the future and still hold traditional values as an essence of their success. Supply houses who in all honesty follow rule number 2 in internet sales (and just about everything in life really) and that is…see rule number one. Have a safe, and happy summer… HEADWAY.NET.NZ 38
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Headway | PROMOTION Business
Where you are going is more important than where you stand By MARGARET WALSH
1. FUTURE FORECASTING You’ve got to look at the beauty therapy services world and have some hypothesis/notion/idea about where it is going in the next two to three years. Then you can better position yourself to be valuable in it. Those of you who’ll have the most success in your beauty therapy or hairdressing services in the two to three year future will have ensured you have embraced with a passionate appetite something you are good, or will be trained to be exceptional at, and that the client world needs. It is imperative that we look forward with our ‘research glasses’ on and guesstimate the “what next” in business as the owner or salon manager. You need to have that special key that will unlock the crystal ball of beauty therapy business success. Do not overlook a simple research survey at the salon reception desk this January 2017. Ask your clients what services they have read about or tried abroad would wish to have at your salon/spa/ clinic. Granted we sometimes wear our ‘rose-tinted glasses’ and combine that view with our ‘gut instinct’ to select new services. All will be forgiven of you for using this pathway, as long as you have correctly worked the financial aspect of the service down to the cost per minute to provide this service. Become that business that clients love to visit as they enjoy the innovation and the “this is next factor” that you offer them. The excitement you will generate by reviewing services and upskilling every year will permeate throughout your business inculcating staff members, clients and suppliers and the local community within which you operate. My challenge at work is always to be innovative, and I smile when I think of how many times I have announced to my team at ourstaff meeting; “we are so far ahead with our thinking, we are lonely!” Do be creative.
2. SELF-ANALYSIS What is your personal SWOT analysis? We so often complete this form of analysis on our business but what about the leader / salon manager. SWOT is an acronym for Strengths, Weaknesses, Opportunities and Threats. The SWOT analysis headings provide a good framework for reviewing strategy, position and direction of a company or business proposition, or any other idea. The first two letters in the acronym, S (strengths) and W (weaknesses), refer to internal salon factors, which mean the resources and experience readily available to you. Examples of areas typically considered include: • Financial resources, such as funding, sources of income and maybe new equipment investment opportunities • Physical resources, such as your company’s location, facilities and equipment. • Human resources, such as employees, full and part time, and target audiences. • Current processes, such as employee educative programs, team structures and software systems. I recommended fully analysing your strengths and weaknesses first. You can’t hope to take advantage of or control the external factors until the internals have been objectively assessed. External forces influence and affect every salon, spa, clinic, company, organization and individual. Whether or not these factors are connected directly or indirectly to an opportunity or threat, it is important to take note of and document each one. External factors typically reference things you or your company do not control, such as: • Market trends, like new products and technology ,or shifts in audience needs. • Economic trends, such as local, national and international financial trends. • Funding, such as donations, governmental compliance council legislature and other sources.
PHOTOGRAPHY Shutterstock
W
hat important skill-sets do I advocate you polish in the coming year to be both visibly successful and financially profitable in 2017? Here they are:
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• • •
Demographics, such as a target audience’s age, race, gender and culture. Relationships with suppliers and partners. Political, environmental and economic regulations.
Once you fill out your SWOT analysis, you will need to come up with some recommendations and strategies based on the results and these strategies should be focused on leveraging strengths and opportunities to overcome weaknesses and threats. This is actually the area of strategy development where organisations have an opportunity to be most creative, and where innovative ideas can emerge, but only if the analysis has been appropriately prepared in the first place. So my task for you in 2017 is to answer; what is your SWOT analysis? You are the architect of your own future; you have to know what you want and are best at. That requires some serious soul searching, as well as clarity about your strengths and weaknesses.
3. LEARNING AGILITY The world is moving so quickly that we should consider employing staff that have their professional qualifications, PLUS prioritise employing people with “learning agility”. My reading research suggests that in a few years from now, the most desirable people will be multi-taskers that are able to demonstrate impact and value in a series of in-salon modalities, rather than in one role they’ve had for 10 years. As we change our
menu and polish our brand, our staff has to “learn” and embrace education every week, not wait for it to be spoon-feed through suppliers or salon owners. That drive to embrace and upskill will come with those new staff and new graduates that have “learning agility”. Remember, it applies to the leader as well. Enroll in courses and get a coach.
4. UPDATE YOUR EDUCATIONAL RESOURCES It is disappointing that in the majority of skin and beauty therapy and skin treatment clinics, skin analysis is still of insufficient detail to be useful to skin therapist and client alike. Can I suggest in 2017 that you embrace detailed consultations and skin diagnostic tools; especially those diagnostic tools that are interactive with your client. This will reflect well for your salon brand using credible procedures and diagnostic tools in conjunction with advanced skin analysis knowledge. Treat the cause of skin conditions in 2017 based on clinical visuals from your diagnostic device. Today’s clients are very informed and want information and knowledge from you that they will not be reading in “Viva” or “Mindfood” magazine, or from Google. You can be the skin expert in 2017. Set your goals to “turn over a new leaf” and please complete your planning by 20 January 2017. Call if you need help on 0274 735 914.
AT OBSERV WE WERE SO EXCITED TO ANNOUNCE THAT DERMASCOPE USA INDUSTRY READERS CHOSE OBSERV TO BE “WINNER OF THE “BEST OF THE BEST DIAGNOSTIC TOOL IN 2016” And if your equipment is “the best of the best” your clients will happily provide a testimonial to the fact. Enjoy this testimonial from Robyn McAlpine of www.lasereffect.com.au “I have been using the OBSERV 520 in my skin therapy clinic for coming up to two years and can no longer remember what our skin consultations were like prior to this. It has become an invaluable tool in educating our clients about their skin. Not only does it give us as therapists an insight into underlying skin conditions and allow us to read deeper into our client’s skin, but it also provides a visual for our clients, helping them to see what we see. A client who is armed with the knowledge of where their skin is heading is a client who can make an informed decision about their skin journey. My team are exceptional skin therapists, and the OBSERV 520 gives them an ever greater understanding of our clients needs. Detailed and well recorded before and after images help to keep us accountable and make sure that we are constantly delivering a high level of skin care. Progress cannot be denied when you have such consistent images from treatment to treatment.” Do you want “the best of the best” skin diagnostic device? Email us now for more details at: enquiries @observ.co.nz
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New Year New You
Discover how to kick-start your spa with some fresh thinking for the year ahead says Trudi Brewer.
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or life coach and founder of Aurora Spas and Aurora Spa Rituals Lyndall Mitchell, keeping motivated and committed are the cornerstones to any spa business. She shares her advice for the New Year ahead.
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Beauty | NEW YEAR NEW YOU
TIPS ON KICK-STARTING THE NEW YEAR IN BUSINESS 1. REFLECTION Take the time to reflect on what you did well in your business in 2016 and what you can improve on. Look at all levels of customer service, feedback, marketing, financials, planning and team culture. When you bring awareness to what you have done, then you can make better choices moving forward and ultimately get better results.
2. CLARITY With reflection and awareness comes clarity. Once you have thoroughly looked over your results, milestones, achievements and development areas then you can start to ask yourself some powerful questions. A great thought starter is: What do I want for my business in 2017? Think big and bold. Also what other businesses am I inspired by and why?
3. PLAN
The time to plan is essential for creating a considered strategy for your business. Put pen to paper to help process your thoughts and create a six-month and a 12-month plan.
4. COMMITMENT There is a difference between commitments vs. trying. Some people try to get results and others commit to getting results. If you want iconic results, then you need to commit to the actions that you have created in your planning.
5. EAT THE FROG Do the hardest thing in your day first and you will be 15 percent more productive. This is the summary point of a brilliant book on time management called Eat The Frog by Brian Tracey. A short, easy read that will see you focussed and motivated to do the hardest thing in your day first.
NEW PRODUCTS LAUNCHING THIS MONTH
PHOTOGRAPHY Shutterstock and supplied.
For giving the eye area an instant brightening boost, ASPAR Camellia Brightening Eye Cream. And to nourish dry locks after a day at the beach, ASPAR Macadamia & Quandong Replenishing Conditioner.
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Grapefruit & Seaweed Revitalising Body Cleanser(1), Rose & Aloe Body Cleanser(2), Ultra Rich Body Cream(3), Lavendar & Patchouli Relaxing Body Oil(4), Rosemary & Clove Thermal Balm(5). For stockist enquires email info@selfcaregroup.co.nz Or call freephone 0800 105 107
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Beauty | NUTRITION
WELL
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hat do vitamins A, D, E and K have in common? Oil - or more importantly the fat that it contains. An important transporter for these vitamins in your body, they need to be packaged inside fat, to be delivered to the part of the body that stores them. Zero oil and your body will not function at itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s peak. The body needs these good fats to for energy and skin health, and if you are looking to fuel your body with good fat, choose cold pressed oils. Only a small amount of heat is required to extract oils from the plant, and no chemicals are used, which means they keep their high nutrient content.
Eating cold pressed oils is a brilliant way to nourish skin from the inside out. And with a focus on summer salads, we share our favourite ways to dress them with these rich antioxidants. By Liz Lamb.
Our favourite summer salad oils are best accompanies with oil that are bright in colour and peppery in taste. These include extra virgin olive oil, and nutty avocado and walnut oils.
EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL A great source of monounsaturated fats; these are good for your heart through changing your cholesterol. It also contains plant nutrients that can prevent blood clots and fight against harmful inflammation in your body.
AVOCADO OIL
PHOTOGRAPHY Shutterstock
Packs a double punch by acting as the deliveryman for vitamins and minerals and also offering vitamin E. The benefits of vitamin E include protecting your insides through stopping damaging free radicals and preventing cholesterol from clogging your arteries in the heart.
WALNUT OIL This is one of the rare sources of Omega-3 that does not come from fish. We cannot make Omega-3 naturally, so getting them from our diet is super important. Omega-3 has a long list of health benefits, including boosting brain function and producing prostaglandins, which help against damaging inflammation.
Here are two of our favourite ways to add oils youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re your diet during summer. For a salad with a meal at night or to accompany a meal at night, these quick and easy dressings are also good for the body.
Mustard vinaigrette 1 clove of smashed garlic. 2 tablespoons of balsamic vinegar. 1 teaspoon of Dijon mustard. And then add the above ingredients with 5 tablespoons of any of the body-loving oils above and toss through a leafy green salad.
Pomegranate salad dressing. Mix 1 small garlic clove, crushed with 1 tablespoon of lemon juice. Add 2 tablespoons of pomegranate molasses and 5 tablespoons of any of our body-loving oils together, serve with roasted vegetables or a feta and green bean salad. HEADWAY.NET.NZ 44
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CS&Co 0800 604 604 www.cs.co.nz
Olaplex enquiries@olaplex.co.nz www.olaplex.co.nz
Davines 03 375 1070 hello@boutiquebrands.co.nz www.boutiquebrands.co.nz
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Decléor 0800 105 107 info@decleor.co.nz www.decleor.co.nz
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he road to being a natur al-looking a bumpy one. blonde can Regardless be of the type colou ring of product techn ique or you select, service that lightening requi res time, hair is a patience and detail. It’s also the bigge attent ion to will make st investmen in your salon t many client . All good issue to the reaso s ns to dedic business of ate our sprin being blond hair looks, e. From pages g to an edit of of inspiration excel lent colou stylists can al r and condi use to impro tioning produ ve their craft. devotees, there cts And for those are some exciti share detail ng new trend blonde s on how s. Internation to shimmer, al stylists While local crysta lize stylists share and flood light thier secre business. Right hair. ts to creati now creati ng the best ng the perfe so inspir ing. blonde ct blonde We have also has never and Beaut y put togeth been er ‘The Profe Edit’ an idea Check out our favourit ssional Hair, we have been for some time e looks backsta talking about now. Desig NZFW wrap where ge at our in ned the inspiration to offer guida office when select nce and a day with Michae we spent ing and recom products to l Beel and mend Sara Allsop - a dream use and prom ing the best team. ote. In creati thoug ht what ng this edit, better way we to highl ight heroes than these skin by asking profe and hair ssionals acros to offer their s our indus favou rites. try From innov ative, hardw and nature-insp orking, ired brand s, as well as colou r that is shaki ng up the hair and beaut y lands cape. And those can’tlive-w ithou t stars that featu re in The Head most of these wa very own exper ts bathrooms . There is an overwhelm also ing theme of change in this issue. Yes, becau se spring is a good seaso n to reinv igorat e your spa staff and skin or salon, - but also it’s a great to shake off oppor tunity those winte r blues, plan and look ahead a holiday to what will inspire and you in 2017. motivate To help you on that journ some solid ey, we have business advic e includ ing new salon tips from owners, a divin the Gold Coast , and some e Italia n spa simple advic to visit on pace at which e on how to we all live, slow down with some managing the lessons on our frantic how to cope lives. Don’t forget with to like and share your check out thoug hts on our digita l #headways issue at www on Instag ram pring, .headway.n @headway EDITOR’S et.nz and magazine. follow us All the best We love heari for the crazy PICK S: ng from you. season ahead What I love - travel safe. about summ
Eye of Horus 0800 604 604 www.cs.co.nz
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15 HEAD WAY.N
Glō Minerals 0800 105 107 info@selfcare.co.nz www.selfcare.co.nz
er beauty... A fresh new scent by Zadig & Voltaire. Buffing away dry, winter skin with Joyce Blok Body Care Sugar Scrub Giving my skin . a faux glow with ST Trope Luxe Facial Oil z and Jane Iredal e Quad Bronze in Moon glow. Encouraging my natural wave with Oribe Curl Gloss.
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of pure A glowing flow . botanical hydration t moisture a daily battle agains Every skin type fights ingredients and technology ced loss. Using advan tion process found remarkable hydra been which mimics the Floral range has Hydra iconic , nourished in plants, our skin types moisturised created to keep all and night. and protected day
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Oribe 03 375 1070 hello@boutiquebrands.co.nz www.boutiquebrands.co.nz Professional Hair Brands 07 847 8350 sales@phb.net.nz www.phb.net.nz Redken 0800 889 778 www.redken.co.nz Refectocil 0800 105 107 info@selfcare.co.nz www.selfcare.co.nz Rodney Wayne 09 358 4644 admin@rodneywayne.co.nz www.rodneywayne.co.nz Schwarzkopf Professional 09 250 9900 www.schwarzkopf-professional.co.nz Sothys 0800 SOTHYS www.sothys.co.nz St Tropez 0800 604 604 www.cs.co.nz Sunlights Balayage 0800 169 600 info@dateline.co.nz www.dateline.co.nz
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