HAIR BEAUTY FASHION NEW ZEALAND / AUTUMN 2017 / VOL.40 NO.1
Pia Miller for ghd
#HEADWAYAUTUMN
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Headway | PROMOTION
Pia Miller ghd Brand Ambassador
WHERE WILL YOUR HAIR TAKE YOU? 1 HEADWAY.NET.NZ
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Headway | PROMOTION
Join us on an adventure into new places, new styles and new hair possibilities with the ghd wanderlust collection. Discover a world of hair expressions for you to be inspired and to inspire others at ghdhair.com/globalhairdays ghd wanderlust collection is available in the ďŹ nest salons and ghdhair.com
#ghdwanderlust #GlobalHairDays
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Headway | PROMOTION
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Headway | PROMOTION
INTRODUCING
UNSURPASSED PERFORMANCE.
BRILLIANT RESULTS. Developed in Italy by Europe’s top colour experts, this easy-to-use permanent hair colour offers the perfect fusion of performance and reliability. With vibrant reds, up to 100% grey coverage and a specially curated collection of intermixable shades, the color XG creates the results you want every time. ®
DYESMART® System Ensures maximum colour penetration, greater longevity and brilliant vibrancy in red shades. Pure XG Protection System A blend of soothing ingredients, including cottonseed oil and rice milk, leaves hair shiny and healthy. 100% Grey Coverage Opaque color offers incredible coverage, even on resistant grey hair, with natural-looking results.
Boutique Brands is proud to be the exclusive distributor of the color XG® in New Zealand. To get the color XG® in your salon, call 0800 25 25 30 or email hello@boutiquebrands.co.nz HEADWAY.NET.NZ 2
New Zealand’s leading multi-brand distributor for the world’s most sought after beauty brands. CS&CO established the Salon Division in 2012 and is New Zealand’s home to Fudge Professional, ST Tropez, OPI, Eye of Horus, Lonvitalite, Foil Republic and Triumph & Disaster. With a team of qualified experts in their fields, the Salon Division services both hair and beauty salons and spas nationwide. We strive to help you achieve your business goals.
CS COMPANY LTD trading as CS&Co.
www.cs.co.nz
Tel: 0800 604 604
Every Client, Every Service.
N O W D I S T R I B U T E D E X C L U S I V E LY B Y HAIRCARE NEW ZEALAND
Contact Haircare New Zealand on 0800 505 385 or haircarenz.com to become a stockist. olaplex.com • @olaplexnz • #olaplexnz
• 100% pure colour
• Shiny and soft hair
• Long-lasting and bright colours
• More delicate formulas
• Natural – vibrant shades
• Perfect coverage
CONTENTS Hair 15
EDITOR'S LETTER
PROFILE 19 STYLE MAKERS: Veteran hairdressers share their career highs and who inspires them every day
49 VINTAGE VIBES: See how to upcycle and fit out a salon on a shoestring
87 GIVING BACK: Find out what Danny Pato is doing for KidsCan
TRENDS 35 HAIR NEWS: The latest and greatest 25 WHAT'S TRENDING: On Pinterest and Instagram with #hair #inspiration
75 BEING BRONDE: The rules when blending brown and blonde
89 NATURAL V ORGANIC: Learn how to find the best from nature
HAIR INSPIRATION 47 BEHIND THE SCENES: Go behind the scenes
67 Metallic muse
with Robert Kovacs and ghd on our stunning cover shoot
61
5 MINUTES WITH: Sara Allsop backstage at the couture shows in Europe.
64 5 MINUTES WITH: The #Oribeobsessed session stylist Julianne McGuigan
Beauty 7
BEAUTY NEWS
PROFILE 11 PIGMENTATION: Find out how Dr Catherine RETINOL: The latest news on the A-Class anti-ager, vitamin A
Givin
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25 CASE SENSITIVE: How to treat skin with TLC 17 JOYCE BLOK: The history of an iconic brand TRENDS 15 WHAT'S TRENDING: On Pinterest and Instagram with #makeup #inspiration
BUSINESS 21 STANDING OUT FROM THE CROWD: Find out how to give your spa the edge
37 NEW GENERATION: Learn how to future proof your business
SPA 27 HEATHY RETREAT: endota Spa in Australia 31 TROPICAL ESCAPE: In Turtle Bay, Mauritius NUTRITION 44 CLEAN EATING: A lifestyle change. 11 HEADWAY.NET.NZ
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tears 41 Russian
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Beauty news
ack gb
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Joyce
Stone deals with dark spots
Blok
17 12/03/17 2:24 PM
0800 169 600 • DATELINE.CO.NZ
HAIR BEAUTY FASHION NEW ZEALAND / AUTUMN 2017 / VOL.40 NO.1
®
MANAGING EDITOR Trudi Brewer trudi@selfcaregroup.co.nz M: +64 9 5795188
ART DIRECTOR Olivia Wimsett - Own Design olivia@owndesign.co.nz
DESIGNER Vanessa Naran vanessa@selfcaregroup.co.nz
PRINTING Print Management – Graeme Brazier Ltd
EDITORIAL CONTRIBUTORS
TIGI
Trudi Brewer, Sarah Simpson, Anne O’Brien, Catherine Stone, Liz Lamb, Sharleen Singh, Charmaine Guest. ADVERTISING RATES SUPPLIED ON REQUEST
EDITORAL Editorial and pictorial submissions are welcomed. All pictures, prints, manuscripts, and electronic media should be marked with the contributor’s name, contact phone number and address. No material will be returned unless requested and accompanied by a stamped, addressed envelope. No liability or responsibility can be accepted for any loss or damage.
CIRCULATION Headway is widely circulated throughout New Zealand hair, beauty, nailsalons and spas.
INTERNATIONAL SUBSCRIPTIONS 1yr (4 issues) for $95 (including GST and postage) 2yrs (8 issues) for $180 (including GST and postage) HAIR COVER HAIR: Robert Kovacs. STYLIST: Charlotte Stokes. MAKEUP: Casey Gore. PHOTOGRAPHY: David Mannah.
fatboy
HEADWAY® INTERNATIONAL HAIR & BEAUTY FASHION NEW ZEALAND is published by Self Care Group Ltd, 1016A Great South Road, Penrose, Auckland. HEADWAY is published quarterly in March, June, September and December. It isdistributed to all paid subscribers, advertisers and their assigns, and widely circulated through New Zealand professional hairdressing and beauty care salons. All statements, including product claims, are those of the person or organisation making them and do not necessarily reflect the opinions of the publisher. While every care is taken, no liability is assumed or accepted by the publishers for any omissions or errors in articles, listings and advertisements, or any losses due to any omissions or errors.© 2017 Self Care Group Limited. HEADWAY®, ‘HEADWAY INTERNATIONAL HAIR & BEAUTY FASHION NEW ZEALAND”, and “New Zealand HAIR & BEAUTY” are trademarks of Self Care Group Ltd. All articles, illustrations and materials published herein are copyright and are not to be copied, reproduced or distributed in anyway without the express permission of the publisher. All rights reserved.
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Freephone: 00800 1212 5050 Email: vicki@herbukaustralasia.com Mobile: 021 906 647 www.organiccoloursystems.com √Organic Colousystems.indd 1
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Headway | EDITOR’S LET TER
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DWAYM AZINE AG
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Moisture + Shin
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K ar e n W alker
St Tropez Luxe Face Oil
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urning 40 is a milestone in anyone’s life. But when a brand is 40, it’s testament to the relevance you have to the community you represent, and many decades of hard work. It was 1977 when Headway magazine hit salons across the country; that same year, Kanye West and Liv Tyler were born, and Swedish pop group Abba’s single “Dancing Queen” was a number #1 hit worldwide. It was also a time when technology took a giant step forward. Steve Jobs took Apple from a hobby to a corporation in the hope that the ‘personal computer could deliver to the average consumer something that was better than what they already knew’. And look how that has changed the way we work, live, socialise and above all, communicate. The big ‘40’ crept up on us, a time we have measured in trends; from perming to precision cutting, global colour to ombre. We have relished the last four decades as part of this vibrant industry. To celebrate our birthday, we asked five stylists who have spent 40 years in this business how the industry has changed and who continues to inspire them every day. See Style Makers on page 19. After 40 years at the top of their game, these veteran hairdressers are confident enough to make decisions quickly, recognise their success and rock their own individual style with pride; qualities the Headway team want to embrace with every new issue we produce. This edition, we share five stunning new collections from page 27, and talk to session stylists about the importance of educating the next generation of young hairdressers. See page 45. We also celebrate the global trend of upcycling and talk to a South Island stylist about creating a vintage salon on a shoestring. See page 47. We share ‘What’s Trending’ with hair and makeup on Instagram and Pinterest. And we investigate the health of skin and your business; from tackling pigmentation and correcting sensitivity, to making sure you continue to offer excellent service. Spa owner Lyndall Mitchell of Aurora Spas believes attention to detail is what will help your spa or clinic stand out in the crowd and keep pace with change. Speaking of change, this is my last issue as managing editor of Headway. While I will be around as editorial director, Charmaine Guest steps back into the editor’s chair after a year of maternity leave. A year away from work for Charmaine has been a valuable lesson in patience. Tackling the new role of motherhood, Charmaine commented: “The past year has been amazing, and the time has flown by.” A bit like the last fabulous 40 years for Headway magazine. We hope you like our ‘special collector’s birthday issue’, and as always, we love to hear from you.
Trudi Brewer
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COMING SOON TO THE FINEST PROFESSIONAL SALONS New Zealand 0800 456 426 JOICO.CO.NZ © Joico® Laboratories, Los Angeles, CA
HAIR Joico Artistic Team
COLOR Denis de Souza
PHOTO Hama Sanders
*When using Brightening Shampoo and Conditioner/Masque, which preserve over 80% of haircolor after 18 washes. ** vs. other Joico lighteners.
PHOTOGRAPHY ghd/Adam Reed ghd global ambassador #ghdwanderlust #GlobalHairDays
Hair
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LAYLA Styling Chair
TUSCANY Salon Workstation
ARC 4 Drawer Trolley
ALISTER Reception Desk
METAL BOXES Rectangle or Square Display
Hair | PROFILE
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New Zealand has some outstanding talent in salons. Trudi Brewer talks to hairdressing royalty to find out how business has changed over 40 years and why they still love their trade.
RODNEY WAYNE Rodney Wayne Hairdressing When did you start hairdressing? Over 40 years ago. What inspired you to become a hairdresser? A keen eye for fashion and design. I looked at a couple of career options, but hairdressing was the one.
What has been the biggest change over the past three or four decades? Without a doubt, Vidal
Vidal Sassoon
Sassoon and precision haircutting. Then the ‘passing’ of the permanent wave.
What would you never do again when it comes to hair? The anti-head shape; flat crown, high forehead and nape – UGLY.
What inspires you each day? Working with creative people and helping people look and feel great. What are clients asking for in your salons today? Beautiful, well maintained, healthy hair together with a great-looking colour. Each client is treated as an individual. There are no ‘cookie cutter’ haircuts at Rodney Wayne. What is still your greatest challenge after years in the business? Finding, training and retaining the very best people.
Who is your muse? Vidal Sassoon and Jean Louis David. However, when training in Melbourne, John Morrie and Edward Beale were my heroes. What advice do you find yourself giving young up and coming stylists? Treat each and every client as though they are your best friend or family.
What about this career still makes you smile? When I’m out and about and someone approaches me and says they just had their hair done at a Rodney Wayne salon. That brings the smile of happiness and pride.
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@robertlobetta DEREK ELVY Buoy Salon and Spa, Wellington When did you start hairdressing? 40 years ago. This year also coincides with the 30th anniversary of Buoy Salon and Spa.
What has been the biggest change over the past four decades? In the 70's, it was the ambiguity of identity. The music industry ruled, the smoke and perfume of love and peace pervaded. Satin and tat and all that is Bowie and his influence. The 80's was all about experimentation to the extreme, and there was also a romantic face of fashion and graduate designer brands. Punk and anti- establishment was too volatile for me to find attractive. Also, there was a lot of social and financial change on a global scale; if you weren't in their company, you were somewhat overlooked. In the 90's, it was all about the marketing of the 'Super Model', propelled by party drugs, and cloned behaviour was deemed as acceptable. The 2000's were all about celebrity and gratuitous marketing ruled. And today, fashions come and go like night and day. Thankfully, we are moving towards a more responsible, sustainable and aware period. What would you never do again? I have never considered myself a colourist or technician. The process does not engage me at all, and I struggle when what is in my 'mind's eye' is not achieved.
What styles are your clients asking for in the salon? The accessibility of social media has given the client more information than ever. Sure, you will be garnered with the accolade if you can reproduce populous choice. Ultimately, women dress to impress other women, men are the accessory.
What is still your greatest challenge after years in the business? I have learnt the hard way. Your business needs to be sustainable and provide outcomes that are market-ready, have a culture and identity, and a sense of belonging.
“The accessibility of social media has given the client more information than ever.”
Who is your muse? British hairstylist Robert Lobetta. I have always favoured protagonists and this is what I have tried to communicate myself in sharing the message. Also, stylist Yoshi Su, who was an apprentice at Buoy, and has gone on to enjoy international notoriety for creating images that are complex and provocative, timeless and gracious. I love his mind and daring. What advice do you find yourself giving young up and coming stylists? Keep it simple. You have a set of senses, use them wisely.
What about this career still makes you smile. The luxury of finding a place of belonging; not in the limelight, not as a weapon of choice, but an industry where I can ‘just be me' and shed some enriched light on the possibilities. HEADWAY.NET.NZ 20
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@marilyns_hair_salon MARILYN WHELAN Marilyn’s Hairdressing, Auckland When did you start hairdressing? In 1966 and I was 17. What inspired you to become a hairdresser? My girlfriend was coming to Auckland to do a hairdressing course, and I thought why not? It was a way to escape a small country town and come to the big smoke. Girls were not encouraged to go to university, and as I was a follower of fashion, it seemed to fit the bill. What has been the biggest change over the past three or four decades? I went to a Redken seminar in 1989, and the two American speakers predicted the 90s would be the decade of change - wasn’t that the truth. Every decade has seen great changes. When I started hairdressing, we cut hair dry, then shampooed and then set the client's hair. We also did a lot of perms and used a cap for highlighting. We didn’t condition the hair, and then along came Acitex. For home hair care we sold hairspray and shampoo that we bought in bulk and bottled ourselves. Next came blow-drying, and then sexy haircuts and less tortured hairstyling, wonderful colouring techniques and, of course, home hair care. What would you never do again that you did when you started out? Client hair every 15 minutes. That’s how it rolled; the adrenaline was addictive, but it was like working on a production line.
What inspires you each day? I am blessed to work in a beautiful salon with my wonderful team I regard as family and our terrific clients.
“Hair that they can style and manage, along with colour, shape and glamour, individually created to suit their lifestyle.”
What styles are your clients asking for in the salon? They want beautiful, healthy hair that they can style and manage, along with colour, shape and glamour, individually created to suit their lifestyle. What is still your greatest challenge after years in the business? Staff. It is always a battle to get the right fit.
Who is your muse? Grace Coddington. She is unique, true to herself and I admire her work ethic. She has been a quiet achiever and survivor in the constantly changing fashion environment. What about this career still makes you smile? Over 40 years, generations have changed, along with lifestyle choices and opportunities.
What advice do you find yourself giving young up and coming stylists? Don't get despondent. You cannot buy experience but if you stick to your knitting, hairdressing is an incredible career you can have all your life, travel all over the world and meet the most amazing people. There are very few professions where you touch people as we do, and this leads to a very special relationship with people from all walks of life.
What about this career still makes you smile? When I arrive at work and there is a buzz in our busy salon. When I watch my team having fun and creating work that makes them and their clients happy. It's hugely satisfying to see young people blossom and grow.
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PAUL SERVILLE Serville's Luxury Hair Salons, Auckland When did you start hairdressing? In 1968. I was 16 years old What inspired you to become a hairdresser? My first hairdressing experience was in 1968, having my hair cut with a truly professional hairdresser. My experience was so great that I wanted to make other people feel like I did that day. What has been the biggest change over the past three or four decades? There used to be very few good hairdressers in the 70’s and 80’s here in New Zealand. Now, thanks to the digital world we live in, there are many well-trained hairdressers in every city.
What would you never do again when it comes to hair? Never did anything I didn’t want to do or believe in, so I don’t regret any work that I have ever created.
What inspires you each day? I’m inspired every day by the ever-changing world of hairdressing. What are clients asking for in-salon today? The trends that are driven by celebrities and social media. What is still your greatest challenge after years in the business? Finding passionate people. Who is your muse? I have many; from the fashion world, the music world and the design world, along with other hairdressers - so many Sassoon people throughout the years. Today, I love working with Frank Apostolopoulos; he is fearless. Over the years, I have been hugely inspired by David Bowie and his ability to reinvent himself through music, time and time again. I also love the words of Leonard Cohen.
What advice do you find yourself giving young up and coming stylists? It used to be all about hairdressing skill. Now the skill is communication between you and the client - consultaiton is everything. The better your communication skills are, the brighter your future will be.
What makes you smile? Watching passionate people at work, who are completely absorbed in the art of hairdressing and give everything to what they do.
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GRANT BETTJEMAN Bettjemans Hair Salon, Auckland When did you start hairdressing? I was 15. What inspired you to become a hairdresser? I was always fascinated by the fact that Mum could go into this little stand-alone salon in Piopio, Te Kuiti, with straight mousy hair, and walk out with black curly hair feeling and looking a million dollars. Being able to change the way people felt about themselves motivated me to move to Auckland and start an apprenticeship at the age of 15. What has been the biggest change over the past three or four decades? During the late 60s and early 70s, it was all about the roller set where hair was ‘panel beaten’ into shape and locked in with hairspray for the week. Precision cutting saw the end of those ‘bullet-proof’ sets. The shape was in the cut with minimal blow-drying. Then came the era of the perm; everyone had one (even me!!) The next change was the colour revolution. One of the biggest advancements in the chemical side of our industry has been our colour formulas and application techniques. Colour has become so much a part of personal grooming - for some clients, it’s more important than the cut. Now it’s all about the experience. Successful salons recognise that excellence in service is what makes them stand apart. What would you never do again when it comes to hair? I would never have another perm. However, I never say never...
What inspires you each day? People. Nothing could be more satisfying than making clients look fabulous and feel confident. I am also inspired by the people in our team. Being part of a creative, professional team is a true privilege indeed. What are clients asking for in the salon today? Our salon is all about beautiful, glamorous hair. Working in Italy was such an eye-opener for me; there they don’t care about trends. All they care about is beautiful, sexy, feminine hair. That is what most of our clients want, hence the movement to the longer hair trend. so our greatest challenge is keeping them busy and motivated. We work hard to keep the Bettjemans brand current and popular.
Who is your muse? Fabio Gentilini in Italy and Sasha Lenski here in my salon. And Pierre Alexandre (now deceased) for innovative, opulent glamour and stunning showmanship. Also, Trevor Sorbie for his creative, but commercial genius.
What advice do you find yourself giving young up and coming stylists? I remember when I told my sheep farming father of five sons that I wanted to be a hairdresser. All he said was, “Remember son, you will have to support a family doing that, so you’d better be a good one”. I find myself passing that pearler on. Also, it’s physically demanding, so you need to be fit - and a positive attitude is everything in this game.
What about this career still makes you smile? People make me smile. I’ve been hairdressing for 46 years, and I think I have another 10 or 15 years left in me yet. I love being part of a young, creative team, and being the style guru to my warm and wonderful clientele.
PHOTOGRAPHY Milana Radojcic, Instagram and supplied
What is still your greatest challenge after years in the business? We have a large staff, 13 hairdressers,
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_OFFIC
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Instagram and Pinterest provide a smorgasbord of #hairinspo. Trudi Brewer shares what the team at Headway are crushing on for autumn.
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Bella and Gigi Hadid From bronde to brunette the red and yellow lights of the Hadid's sisters were on fire at Versace on the runway during Milan Fashion Week. The shoulder-length lobs sporting a raven shades of brunette and honey blonde with red and yellow extensions, stole the show. "I wanna dye my hair red,� Bella Hadid told reporters backstage, after extensions were glued in and trimmed with a razor to match her natural length. The bright crimson against the richness of her new black-brown colour struck the perfect balance between punk and super sexy. While Gigi rocked highligher yellow. Here’s to more sibling styling we say!
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Hair | TRENDS
Extreme Side Partings
@muglerofficial
There is more than one way to add shine to your style, and this season, a slick side part could be that easy ‘dash-outthe-door’ hair inspiration you need on days you don’t want to wash your hair. However, to own this trend, make sure hair is parted on the side to the extreme left or right or it doesn't count, and use plenty of hairspray, followed by a shineenhancing product to keep those flyaway strands in place.
Get the Glow This is the season to steal your boyfriends gel-wax. It allows you to create texture with loads of shine. For a ponytail, it adds glossy smoothness and calms those fluffy strands. Simply work a small amount through dry hair before you start styling to give hair a gorgeous shine and super lasting hold.
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Sombre anyone? No, this is not a dessert or dance move but the cousin of the trusted and muchloved Ombre (also not a dance move) colour technique. But this new two-tone effect has a much softer blend, where the different shades do not connect - ideal for anyone wanting to explore the colour Bronde and not see a regrowth.
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There is an entirely new category of bling to lust after this autumn, and this collection decorates your hair. Bendy clips and sparkly bobby pins resurfaced on the runways at the Fall 2017 shows in Milan. "Designers brought up this idea of the models looking like skater boys and the hair being a bit grungy and a bit cute as well. She'd have this messy hair but be wearing a tiara," hairstylist Anthony Turner told beauty reporters backstage. “Once the clips or jewellery is secure in the hair, go back in with a bobby pin underneath it to keep it secure.”
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Jewellery for the hair
PHOTOGRAPHY Instagram and supplied
We’ve moved on from pastel blue to a trend that goes with everything – denim. Not quite the colour of your boyfriend jeans, think Ombre in moody greys and cool blues. We are not sure if it will catch on, or come anywhere near mainstream (like pastel pink is today), but it’s a whole new hue to play around with.
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The artfully designed undercut Somewhere between sexy tough and slightly taboo is the emerging trend of undercutting. When cut to perfection, the look can be, oddly, quite elegant. The secret to pulling off this trend is to keep the designs simple; a triangle undercut, a few chevrons or a heart or lotus blossom is what we prefer. Ideal for women with any hair length, undercuts can make a bold statement or be hidden away. Here’s our picks from Instagram.
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As a stylist, heated tools are almost your third hand. However, no-heat hairstyles are trending right now. While heat protecting spray works wonders for making sure hair is not damaged, nothing takes the place of naturallycreated movement when styling an 'up do'. According to Pinterest, no-heat hairstyles are up 40 percent more in search, while braided topknots, half-up buns, and headscarves are always in the top three searched styles. We dug through our Pinterest feed to find a few easy styles your hair will love without turning up the heat.
UN DER
Matte Waves Curls in every formation are trending and nothing gives grit like a matte dry shampoo. It adds texture and definition, and helps cut down hair washing time. Spray dry hair when adding natural-looking texture, and then go in with backcombing. HEADWAY.NET.NZ 28
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HAIR: Angelo Seminara, Davines Artistic Director. COLOUR: Edoardo Paludo Davines International Creative Colour Ambassador. MAKE UP: Laura Dominique. PHOTOGRAPHER: Andrew O’Toole. STYLIST: Niccolò Torelli
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Colour Pop The crazy colour trend is going nowhere, and Pop XG, Paul Mitchell’s newest semi-permanent line of cream hair colour is out there. There are 13 vibrant hues, ranging from steel to blue, orange and yellow, rich purple and a stunning shade of teal - and no developer is required. These intense colours offer a rich conditioning colour that lasts up to six weeks. For stockist details visit www.boutiquebrands.co.nz
Hair news
Oribe AirStyle This whipped crème can be worked through dry hair for instant, lived-in texture or to soften and calm puffiness. Expect soft, flexible texture that leaves a hydrating, satin finish. For stockist details visit www.boutiquebrands.co.nz
By TRUDI BREWER
Foiled Again Hair foils are a must in salons, however they make up most of the waste at the end of a busy day. Enter Foil Republic made from 100 percent recycled aluminium, it costs less than three cents per foil - now that’s what we call a win-win. For details visit www.cs.co.nz 35 HEADWAY.NET.NZ
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Davines This Is An Extra Strong Hairspray Create soaring chignons and stay-put twists, sleek ponytails or Brigitte Bardotinspired backcombing that lasts all day. This extra firm hold hairspray helps create the most sophisticated hairstyles, even on the thickest hair. Tip: Shake well before each use to ensure the nozzle is clear from dried out residue spray. For stockist details visit www.boutiquebrands.co.nz
MATTE WAVES Curl in every formation is back on trend and nothing gives it grit like a nourishing salt spray. This medium-hold lotion adds matte texture and a beachy allure. Apply to damp hair for defining waves and adding natural-looking texture; and simply air-dry your hair. For stockist
New Distributor
details visit www.boutiquebrands.co.nz
Theorie Marula Oil Sage Hair Collection Shampoo/ Conditioner/Mask. This luxuriously potent botanical hair care collection is infused with the essential nurturing power of Sage – a plant so rich in vitamins and antioxidants that its scientific name, Salvere, means “to be saved” in Latin. For stockist enquires visit www.dateline.co.nz
Hair scent A luxe hair perfume to delicately scent the hair, Davines Oi Alluring Mist is what's know in perfume circles as a musky floral. With aromatic balsamic and lasting citrus notes, not only does it scent the hair, but also leaves it silky to the touch. For stockist details visit www.boutiquebrands.co.nz
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PHARMABROKER SALES Contact Fiona Davis P 09 415 5050 fiona@pharmabroker.co.nz
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Hair | NEWS
Top Tools This season's ghd collection explores where your hair will take you with a campaign called ghd wanderlust. We are crushing on the travel-friendly tropic sky styler. Available March 29th.
Brighter blonde Lightened hair is in for a treat with the latest Joico Blonde Life Brightening Shampoo, Conditioner and Brightening Masque. Going blonde is notorious for stripping hair of its lustre and leaving it feeling dry and brittle. Joico has created a protein-rich range with the strandstrengthening amino acid Arginine, along with an exotic blend of native oils Tamanu and Monoi. Designed to banish the challenges of brassiness, fading, and breakage that blondes struggle with on a daily basis. For stockists visit www.joico.co.nz
R+CO CACTUS Smooth your style with the dependable Silver Bullet Genesis Hot Air Brush, which dries and styles hair at the same time. The three-speed heat setting and tourmalineceramic brush offers volume or perfect curls - genius. For stockist details visit www.dateline.co.nz
This shampoo’s texture-building particles bring out hair’s natural wave, while providing grit and grip for a more manageable, easy-to-style finish. To achieve the most texture, skip your conditioner and style as normal. For stockist details visit www.boutiquebrands.co.nz
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Repair split ends Living Proof Fresh Cut Split End Mender instantly seals and heals those fluffy split ends to make hair look like it has been freshly cut. Formulated with ‘zip technology’ that targets every individual split end called OFPMA, along with mango butter, ensures a smooth, polished-looking style each time you use it. Ideal if you’re trying to grow out your style, use on damp and dry hair; it can also be layered over other styling products. Available from www.dateline.co.nz
Something NEW coming soon!! It is EPIC.
Instant colour In just 20 minutes, De Lorenzo Novasemi Soft Colour Mousse will condition and add shine, as well as vibrant colour that lasts up to eight washes. The easy-to-apply creamy foam spreads without dripping. Experiment with the ten new colours in the range that will not alter or damage the natural pigment in the hair. For stockist details visit www.phb.net.nz
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0800 SALONEZY (0800 725 663)
www.salonezy.com
10/03/17 4:02 PM
Hair | NEWS
City Beats Hitting salons is a conditioning colour cream that will enhance any colour portfolio. Create stay-true, semipermanents with Redken City Beats; from Times Square Teal to Big Apple Red, there are eight edgy shades inspired by the streets of NYC. This nobleed formula conditions and seals the cuticle post-colour and can be applied on both virgin and coloured hair. This true-to-tone result lasts up to 12 shampoos. For stockist details visit www.redken.co.nz
< Black Beauty We are crushing on the new Comfortel Hairdressing tapware in matte black. Add edge to your salon and statement tapware to your wash lounge with this on-trend black tapware that offers minimal luxury to both traditional or modern salon interior styles. In terms of tapware, this is about as stylish as you can get. Available only from
Comfortel Showrooms Australia- wide & NZ. www.comfortel.com.au
Be on the world stage with 12 international and 12 national judges, including Mark Hayes and Edward Darley from Sassoon; Tabatha Coffey; editorial legend, Peter Gray; multiple UK Hairdresser of the Year awardwinner, Angelo Seminara; Jayne Lewis-Orr from Hairdressing Journal International; Jorge Cancer from the education icons of X-Presion; Andreas Stavrou from the UK Fellowship; and Gerard Scarpacci from the US hair industry platform, HairBrained. If you’re inspired to enter, you’ve still got time! Entries close April 7. A full run-down of what to do, what to expect and what the rules are for 2017 can be found at www.hairexpoaustralia.com/hair-expo-awards *Please note: The above does not apply to the categories of Australian Hairdresser of the Year and New Zealand Hairdresser of the Year. For more details, please see rule 27 of the Rules & Regulations at http:// www.hairexpoaustralia.com/hair-expo-awards/Entrant-Information/ Rules--Regulations/
PHOTOGRAPHY supplied
There’s still time to enter the 2017 Hair Expo Awards.
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HE17FPAd-215x297 2017-02-14T16:40:07+11:00
10 - 12 JUNE 2017
HAIR: FR ANK APOSTOLOPOULOS
PHOTOGR APHER: ANDREW O’TOOLE
MAKE UP: K YLIE O’TOOLE
ICC SYDNEY, DARLING HARBOUR
R E T U R N I N G
DARLING I N
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HARBOUR
2 0 1 7
T I C K E TS O N S A L E N O W AT W W W. H A I R E X P OA U ST R A L I A . C O M
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PHOTOGRAPHER: Anthony Friend. MAKE UP ARTIST: Marla Belt. STYLIST: Rod Nova
T E A R S By SHARON BLAIN
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Behind the scenes
B
ecoming a session stylist is the dream of many young hairdressers, and Robert Kovacs is one of the best. Here are his plans for the year ahead.
What are some of your career highs? Wow, there have been so many. Winning the Hair Expo Excellence in Education award and then winning it again the following year was definitely a highlight. Launching ghd in Taiwan and then Hong Kong with the amazing Jayne Wild. And of course, starting the ghd training program from the ground up here in Australia and New Zealand.
What are you going to focus on with the 2017 education plan? Bringing hands-on styling skills back to hairdressers. Inspiring them to be the very best stylists they can be by partnering with the most iconic hairdressers in the industry.
What surprises and delights you each year about ghd? It would have to be constant change. ghd is a young, energetic brand which is ever-changing; from bringing innovation to market, including the recent acquisition by Coty, no day is ever the same at ghd.
What is the next generation of young hair stylists excelling at? Recreating what’s on the cover of the latest magazines. They are so open to trying new ideas and giving them a go; it’s so much fun helping to shape and influence them.
What do they need more guidance on? An understanding of core skills, which will bring their styling to life. They should always look to amazing stylists in the industry, like Jayne Wild and Richard Kavanagh, for inspiration.
What is on trend with hair styling? I love this question! It is about constant change. Styling has moved from glossy brushed finishes, to matte, combed, finger-styled texture, and today it’s about volume with a slightly polished, glossy finish. What constantly surprises you about using ghd tools and products day-to-day? They deliver what they promise and always make whatever style I create look great. There’s no compromise on performance or hair condition. You know when using ghd you’re using the best of the best.
What was your inspiration when creating the looks for Pia Miller in the autumn/winter campaign? The ghd wanderlust collection has four trends, exploring new places, new styles and new hair possibilities. The first look is beachy, casual, very editorial, free-moving hair, named NOBO, while the second is a glamorous, classic wave and curl, named Red Carpet Luxe. The third was about embellishing the hair with accessories named Adornment, which is really on trend right now. And the final look - the braid - called Modern Romance, is my favourite look. This textured braid is very popular on the runways at present. And if you can’t braid, you can learn how at our upcoming ghd braiding seminars.
What tools and products did you use to get these looks? The hero tools are all from our ghd wanderlust collection; ghd platinum tropic sky styler, ghd V gold ruby sunset styler, and ghd air wanderlust hairdryer. Of course, we also used a variety of ghd style products, brushes and combs.
What’s your desert island ghd product? The ghd platinum styler, as it does everything and is an all-round amazing heat styling tool. What is your best hair tip? Don't use too much product or too much heat. Use ghd styling tools with the ghd heat protect spray, and don’t overdo it. Keep hair looking natural.
PHOTOGRAPHY Instagram and supplied
With Robert Kovacs backstage wielding a ghd styling tool, you know the hair will be ‘on pointe’. Trudi Brewer chats with ghd National Education Manager on his career highs, an education focus and the new face of ghd, actress Pia Miller.
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Headway | PROMOTION
“An understanding of core skills, will bring styling to life.”
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Hair | PROFILE
Vintage Vibe Setting up a salon can be an investment, but with a great eye for upcycling, Invercargill stylist Caren Mackay believes it can be done on a shoestring.
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he cost of opening a salon can often be the only barrier to having your own business. Invercargill stylist Caren Mackay believes in creating a salon that feels like a home away from home, for both clients and stylists alike. It should be a labour of love and not just a place to work. She shares her story with editor Trudi Brewer. There is no such thing a ‘typical’ office environment anymore. Today’s working spaces should blend family and home, particularly in a female-dominated industry. This vibe is certainly at play when you step into Do Hair in Invercargill, where owner Caren Mackay has created a vintage feel for her family of clients. "I feel lucky to have a brand new, custombuilt salon, but I am not a fan of stereotypical, stark design that often comes with a new salon," says Caren, who went to work designing Do Hair on a tiny budget using upcycled furniture and collectables. Three years on, Mackay has an established clientele that love the space she has created. "I
wanted to keep the families who came to me. I liked the bikes and gumboots at the door. I wanted ladies drinking wine down one end of the salon while their kids coloured in at the front of the salon. I like that family feel - that home away from home vibe." A labour of love, Mackay was the only stylist on the floor when she opened the doors three years ago. "My husband came into town from the farm to wash hair at night, and I had a couple of friends to help me during the day. Looking back, it was pretty crazy building a salon by myself, but I had this voice in my head telling me that if I built it, the clients would come." Designed and outfitted on a shoestring budget, Mackay now has a staff of four and business has never been better. "Everything in the salon is recycled (excluding our designer Comfortel basins and station chairs and Warehouse Stationary bookshelves) and all of our furniture is either second-hand, donated, or purchased online from op shops, and then reupholstered by me."
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“T here is no such thing as a ‘typical office environment anymore.”
MACKAY’S UPCYCLING DESIGN TIPS. DID YOU HAVE A PLAN FOR THE INTERIOR, OR DID IT JUST EVOLVE? I was involved in the entire design; from the wall lights, to our gorgeous wallpaper and picture rails. We lowered the ceiling height over the styling stations for lighting and warmth, which stops the bright winter sun from hitting the back wall. The hardest decision was the flooring; everyone tried to talk me into the laying a wooden floor but I knew there would be plenty of wood with our furniture. I chose the soft, light grey tiles with metallic flecks to allow the wooden dressing tables be the stand-out. Throughout the process, my builders kept commenting, 'Why would you want it to look old? It's supposed to be brand new.' They just didn't have the vision I did.
WHAT WAS YOUR BUDGET? I didn't have a budget. I didn't know what anything was supposed to cost. The most expensive dresser was $100, which we bought locally; the others came from around Canterbury and were $80, but cost around $200 to get them down on a truck. I soon learned to buy from the same dealers to save money.
WHAT DO YOUR CLIENTS LIKE ABOUT THE STYLE? We get the most comments on the wallpaper. I'm pretty sure we could have sold it by the container load. Our clients love having a generous space to relax in. They love that it's not dark, sterile or staged-looking. To quote one of our clients, Paula, "Even when the salon is full, your staff never seem rushed. Sitting in front of the dresser, I feel like my visit is all about me.” We recently bought a house, and I love bringing fresh flowers from my garden, which clients also enjoy.
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“I put my heart and soul into this salon. I t ’s unique and a reflection of my personality.”
WHAT ARE YOUR FAVOURITE PIECES? The tea trolley and U-shaped table are my favourites; heirlooms from my Nana. My mum picked up the lamp by the basin from a country antique shop. She too has since passed away, so they are very special.
WHAT ABOUT THE FURNITURE? I recently picked up the floral lounge suite from the Hospice shop, and our desk, wardrobe, draughtsman's coffee table and dressing tables came from antique sellers throughout Canterbury. My husband restored the dressing tables with extra layers of varnish to allow us to use the strong cleaning solutions we need between clients. They are super-practical for storing tools and look great stacked with the generous pile of magazines and our handmade menus.
Our double height windows allow natural light to drench our space, keeping us cosy when the sun is low through winter and offer cooling shade in summer. We are passionate about our photographic shoots, and this space is just wide enough to fit a backdrop with plenty of space for models, makeup artists and stylists. And that it feels homely.
WHAT ARE YOU MOST PROUD OF? I put my heart and soul into this salon. It's unique and a reflection of my personality, my vision and will hopefully be the space I will 'Do Hair' in for the rest of my styling days.
PHOTOGRAPHY Shutterstock and supplied
WHAT DO YOUR STAFF LOVE ABOUT WORKING IN THIS SPACE?
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Inspiring Creativity within Salons
Headway | PROMOTION
With new staff, a larger Auckland Showroom and new salon collections that allows customers to ‘shop by style’, Comfortel are now helping salons create a space they love which frees their creativity. HEADWAY.NET.NZ 52
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“Bring your salon to life by choosing the whole look or take
C
omfortel have been supplying Australia and New Zealand salons with hairdressing and beauty salon furniture and equipment for 20 years. This year sees the company celebrate 15 years in New Zealand, with a whole new look to their brand, and some exciting products to be introduced mid-year. With new branding comes new staff. Comfortel is proud to introduce their new NZ Manager, Kristelle Basson. Kristelle has been in the hairdressing industry for over 10 years as both a successful salon owner and a technical educator for a high profile colour brand. A true advocate, she shares her excitement for the evolving industry and the inspiration it brings, backed with the experience. Comfortel are very excited to have her take over the New Zealand Showroom and help salon owners create an inspiring salon space for
their staff and clients. If you are looking for some inspiration on how to achieve the ideal look in your salon, Comfortel are here to help you. The salon furniture and equipment company have created new salon collections, unique and equally aspirational showcases for both hair and beauty professionals. “The Salon Collections were introduced to allow our customers to shop by style. Bring your salon to life by choosing the whole look or take elements from the collections to enhance your existing salon space” says Marketing & Brand Manager, Lisa Feleppa. “We have a team of dedicated designers that research New Zealand and Australian salon trends, what they want and what they need. We want to provide new-look furniture and equipment that is fresh to the industry and supports the
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elements from the collections to enhance your existing salon space.”
latest trends, yet matches to existing salon styles. For many years European designs have set the benchmark, offered by most salon furniture companies here locally. We wanted to create looks that are our own style, using the latest materials and match what our customers want here locally. We want to give our customers the tools to create with pride.” Comfortel have also moved to a new ‘inspiring’ showroom in East Tamaki, Auckland. Visit Comfortel’s premises to see the latest trendsetting designs of hairdressing furniture, including salon chairs, washlounges, barber chairs, trolleys and mirrors, the essential partner in unleashing your creativity and setting you apart from the rest. The larger showroom introduces their new furniture collections with ‘mini salon fit-outs’ and the latest hairdressing equipment that will inspire you to create the salon space you love.
For beauty salons, day spas and clinics, they supply superior and well-engineered designs, including treatment tables, beauty beds, manicure tables, pedicure spas and equipment that allow you to offer the latest beauty treatments available. Comfortel also provide exciting tools for salons, including hair-free wheels for stools and trolleys, and the hairdressing wonder tool - the 24*7 automatic foil dispenser that cuts foils with just one touch of a button. Make sure you pop in to meet Kristelle, get inspiration to upgrade your salon, or receive the latest Comfortel look-book of ‘New Furniture Collections for Hair and Beauty’ with the latest salon furniture and equipment for your salon! Comfortel, helping you design a salon space that inspires, to free your creativity. HEADWAY.NET.NZ 54
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BLUE By MARIA UNALI
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Headway | PROMOTION Hair | BLUE
PHOTOGRAPHY: Andrew O’Toole. MAKE UP: Kylie O’Toole. STYLING: Melissa Nixon SALON: Salon Kiin. salonkiin.com
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@ SA R A
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5
minutes with... Sara Allsop. As a session stylist when you finally get a booking to work backstage at the couture shows in Europe that’s a win. Here’s her story.
ABOVE: Sara Allsop’s Instagram shots of her backstage moments at Milan and Paris Fashion Weeks.
A
s a session stylist, the ultimate booking is to work backstage at the couture collections in Paris. Sara Allsop shares her fashion moment, rubbing shoulders with some of the world’s most celebrated designers and stylists. When a call came late last year to work on the couture shows in Paris, Allsop's Instagram said it all. Accompanying a black and white shot of the words 'Haute Couture', Allsop said, "I'm coming Paris”. Here is Allsop’s story of being backstage at the most coveted couture collections in the world. It was twenty years into my career before I realised, as a New Zealander, I could work on fashion shows around the world. Eight years on and having worked most seasons in New York and several in Paris, London and Milan, the couture shows still eluded me. Late last year I got my chance. Before I left home, I was confirmed to work on Yohji Yamamoto with UK stylist Martin Cullen but the call time is tight. I land in Tokyo and fear sets in. My flight is delayed into Paris by two hours. I'll never make the show. Emailing the agent is terrifying; if you upset them, you can be dropped in a heartbeat. Once I land, I have messages and emails asking me where I am. I hurriedly message the agent saying the flight was delayed and apologise profusely for missing the show. Shattered, I head straight to the hotel and grab a bite to eat and much-needed sleep.
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Travelling with my cousins, we get up and head out for coffee and croissants. After an impromptu visit to the Louvre, the agent calls asking me to meet Tina Outen for a Paul Smith hair test. I love Tina; there are very few women directing shows at any Fashion Weeks, let alone the couture shows, so I'm happy to drop everything and go. Male and female models are being cast in the same room while we work on the hair and makeup. I was only working on the female models, which I’m quietly pleased about. Hair tests can go on for hours if you don't switch onto the designers’ and stylists’ vision quickly. Thank goodness for Tina as she quickly nails the look for the show. Jet lag is setting in and I can barely keep my eyes open. I walk back to the hotel and go straight to bed with my last thought; I have been confirmed for Dior Homme and Acne tomorrow. It's going to be a juggle working on both.
dolce
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The Acne hair test is a presentation, thank God. I head there first and tell Tina I have to leave early to go to Dior; she's cool about it, as it's pretty straight forward with only about 20 models. Off to Dior test with UK hairdresser Anthony Turner, pretty excited about this one. It's in the Grand Palais, with full-on security, including an X-ray bag check. It's like boarding a plane; you even need your passport here. I love Anthony Turner; he is so mellow and super cool. Today there are five sections - punks, mods, ravers, new waves and skinheads. He gets us all in a group and explains most of the models will need their hair cut; there are 60 models in total Straight into it, I get assigned the punk, and they all need haircuts reminiscent of Sid Vicious or Johnny Rotten. Having been a hard-core punk in the early, 80's rocking that very same hair look, it was easy. We finish with about an hour to spare, and after the show, I head out for dinner and drinks; early night tonight as tomorrow I have Paul Smith, Kenzo and the hair test for Dior Couture to attend. The Kenzo hair look needed to look like 'hat hair', which we set with hair nets to look like the models had been wearing hats all day. HEADWAY.NET.NZ 2
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Hair | PROFILE
Day 3
Day 5
Up early and straight to Paul Smith. This is easy as there are only 12 girls in the show. The venue for the show is stunning; the hair is a dry texture that is effortless but looks "expensive". Being able to watch the show out front was special, though seeing British actor Bill Nighy wandering around backstage with Anna Wintour was also pretty cool - another career high. After the show, I'm off in an Uber across town to Delorme, to hairdresser heaven; a store stocked with an amazing array of pins, clips, brushes and combs under one roof. Guido Palau and his team are next door in a small salon where the hair prep is taking place. When I arrive I'm late; everyone else has started - not great. I know a few of his team by now, so I get straight into folding handy towels for setting the models hair. Yes, handy towels. Hopefully, I will be able to show the technique to other stylists one day. Sandy Hullet, Guido's first assistant who has worked with him for many years calls me over to discuss the finer details of the look, which has a huge emphasis on the technique and product. After this, we can leave. I'm supposed to be at the Kenzo show with Anthony - feeling shattered - jet lag is not my friend right now.
My first day with no shows. I get an email to check availability to do Dolce & Gabbana in Milan. I say yes to Couture but turn down the men's show. Later, I get an email from an agent wanting to confirm me to work on eight shows with Tina at London Fashion Week - I'm torn. I would love to come back and work in London. But it's only a couple of weeks away, and I live on the other side of the globe with two businesses to run. I recommend Kaleb Pritchard from our Dharma team, who we are sending to London Fashion Week in September.
I had to release myself in the middle of the night from the Iris Van Herpen show with Martin Cullen - I'm not missing Dior. I have a 6am call time at the Musee Rodin for Dior Haute Couture’s runway show. I am super-excited as this is why I came to Paris. I didn't care if I didn't work on any other show while I was here. Working on the Dior Haute Couture runway show has been my dream for the past ten years. Pitch black outside, we file in one at a time through security into the gardens. It's super-cold, -2 degrees and foggy, looking scary and beautiful at the same time. Once inside, we get to work setting up stations and the first models arrive. There are more than 60 models for this show today. I pair up with Chow, another of Guido's core team, and we start our first tissue-set curls, an old-fashioned curling technique. Working quickly, and getting straight to work on another set, six sets later, I then have the job of setting up for the core team to dress out the set
FOLLOW SARA @saraallsop
models hair. This is when you can't touch the hair (it’s reserved for Guido and the core team), as it only takes one mistake to stuff up the shape, texture and finish. Guido is pushing us hard to get the work done; it can be slow going at this stage as those finer details need to be perfect. The hair texture is beautiful, windblown and romantic, with show-stopping accessories. I love the results from the folded hand towels used to create the tissue set. Once the headpieces of feathers, flowers and branches are placed in the hair, the models look stunning. Now the models are dressed, the hair team, (minus Guido's core team), head backstage. It is now we get to eat and sit down to watch the show. I'm so happy right now; I can finally tick this one off my bucket list. It's at this time I realise I'm late for the Ralph and Russo show. You absolutely cannot leave a show before the hair director leaves. I would be dumped in a heartbeat if I did this, so I message Freda who is producing R&R telling her I'm going to be late. They are creating a bob look using wigs, which is super straight forward. A huge day - it's now 4pm. I've been in the prep room since 6am, up for 12 hours, I'm heading to have dinner and a dozen red wines.
Up at 4am to catch an early flight to Milan. Our flight is full of models and the hairdressers I have been working with this week. Call time is 12.15am, yet the 100 models don't arrive until 2pm. Walking into the venue, there are buckets of flowers everywhere; crowns and headpieces and exquisite feather velvet headbands and hats. The look was exotic, loose and feminine, with barely any product used. It's a long day; I’ve been up since 4am and I’m shattered. The balls of my feet are aching, and I’m constantly thinking about bed – now I’m wondering if it’s worth it? Then I get an email from Anthony Turner's agent asking for my availability for 14 shows in New York, London, Milan and Paris in February. Again I'm torn. This will be our first season for years not travelling for Ready To Wear (RTW) shows, and I enjoy working with Antony Turner. If I were based in New York or Europe, working on these shows each season would be a certainty. However, I live in New Zealand, and the reality is you have to travel every season. Funding flights and accommodation isn't cheap, and the likelihood of getting confirmed on even one show in your first season is slim. I would like more NZ hairdressers to experience this. It has taught me so much. I love working alongside other stylists backstage, and sharing the experience over the years with Jock Robson (my husband) and my son and daughter. Fingers crossed I get to work on the Couture shows in July and September for RTW; let's hope I'm still getting emails from the agents when the next season collections roll around.
PHOTOGRAPHY Instagram and supplied
Day 4
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Hair | Q&A
5
minutes with... Meet Julianne McGuigan, star stylist and Oribe ambassador.
A
s far as session stylists go, Sydney-based Julianne McGuigan is right up there on the world stage. Trudi Brewer met with the Oribe ambassador on her recent education tour to Auckland and discovered hair styling is not her only talent. Julianne McGuigan's CV is impressive. An editorial stylist, she has been backstage at Milan and Paris Fashion Weeks and worked for some of fashionâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s biggest names including Chloe, Balenciaga, Prada, Louis Vuitton and the late Alexander McQueen. Her signature style has graced the glossy pages of American and European publications, including Vogue, Harpers Bazaar, Elle. And she is one of the most sought-after stylists for creating red carpet looks for celebrities such as Scarlett Johansson and Catherine-Zeta Jones. In Sydney where McGuigan works from Barney Martin's salon, her passion is still catering to her loyal clientele and spreading the message of good hairdressing skills.
WHAT IS A TYPICAL WORKING DAY FOR YOU? There isn't one; it varies. I have a large clientele at Barney Martin Hair where I work in Sydney. I have always specialised; I cut hair but don't colour hair. If I look at HEADWAY.NET.NZ 64
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McGuigan’s styling
WHAT KEEPS YOU AT THE TOP OF YOUR GAME? I try to surround myself with the best. I am always learning. Now with Oribe, I have the opportunity to work with lead stylists in the Oribe family. This brand is 100 percent artist-driven, so for me, I would do that for free.
WHAT AND WHO INSPIRES YOU EACH DAY? So much inspires me, art and movements. I am really into music; it affects me emotionally, so I like to see the threads around those art forms. Also, stylists who are working on the big shows. They have big budgets and beautiful girls to work on. I love Sam McKnight, James Pecis, Eugene Souleiman and Guido Palau, who I have worked with for a long time, and from whom I have learnt the most.
WHAT HAS BEEN YOUR CAREER HIGH TO DATE? I lived in New York for three years and got to work with some amazing photographers there between 2003 and 2006. I also got to work on Alexandra Mc'Queen’s last show before he died, which was inspired by Gaga and Aliens. The hair was extreme, and the gowns were made entirely from feathers that were dyed from light to dark like a bird - it was very dramatic and at the same time very moving.
WHAT IS ON TREND RIGHT NOW WHEN IT COMES TO AUTUMN/WINTER SHAPES AND STYLES? Curl is back but 70's-inspired layered,
The artist at work at d&m hair design in Ponsonby on her recent visit.
razored, curly cuts. The technology behind new products now allows you to create that curl with ease. As far as colour goes, redheads are making a comeback.
WHAT MAKES ORIBE SPECIAL? It is created and made in a Swiss beauty lab and was researched for six years before it launched. The people behind the brand have been in the industry for decades. Daniel Kaner, who came from the Bumble & Bumble group, was the brains behind the brand - Oribe is his baby. Every product has the patented fragrance, Cote Azure, made in the same perfumery as the Tom Ford fragrances. From a styling perspective, every product does exactly what it says it will do, which has filled many holes for me as a stylist. As a brand, it is so inclusive; you are in touch with the heads of the company and they choose the people that represent them carefully. To quote Daniel Kaner, he has a 'no dick head's' policy, which is truly a joy when you are working in a team.
WHAT IS YOUR FAVOURITE ORIBE PRODUCT? Maximer Thickening Spray - I can pretty much use it on any style I create.
SHARE SOMETHING WE WOULD NOT KNOW ABOUT YOU? I'm a singer and a lover of animals. I would own a gigantic farm if I could.
FOLLOW JULIANNE MCGUIGAN @juliannemcguigan
Favourite Oribe product
PHOTOGRAPHY supplied
my calendar over a month, I have set days in the salon cutting hair, editorial work and atelier work as an Oribe ambassador. I am really into education. The traditional forms of hairdressing education in Austraila’s apprenticeship system is starting to fall apart (I can't speak for New Zealand). What stylist’s have to do to get their licence from a TAFE college is dated, and it is not the teacher’s fault; it is the system that exists, and it's not regulated. So there is lots of opportunity for a fresh approach.
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EXPERIENCE THE POWER OF PAINT WITH 13 INTERMIXABLE COLOURS.
DILUTER
OPALESCENT
STEEL
GREEN
TEAL
BLUE
PURPLE
BORDEAUX
PINK
RED
ORANGE
YELLOW
13 ELECTRIC SHADES of vibrant colour, no developer required
LONG LASTING POP
colour lasts for up to 6 weeks, depending on porosity
180ml tube
RICH CONDITIONING BASE leaves hair soft and nourished
MIDNIGHT
Paul Mitchell POPXG colour is available exclusively through Boutique Brands in New Zealand. To get it in your salon, ask your area manager, call 0800 25 25 30, or email hello@boutiquebrands.co.nz
Hair | METALLIC MUSE
PHOTOGRAPHY: Andrew O’Toole. MAKE UP: Kylie O’Toole. STYLING: Melissa Nixon SALON: Salon Kiin. salonkiin.com
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By SHARON DOW SALON: KEVIN KAHAN STYLING: DESIREE PHOTO: BENJAMIN MICHAEL
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Hair | BRONDE
Being bronde The business of being brunette just got interesting, thanks to the colour of the moment - bronde. The transition shade so many of us once described as mouse-brown is now the hottest blend of sunkissed chestnut and honey brown. Trudi Brewer shares why this in-between shade and all the variations of it are perfect for autumn.
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ronde - the clever and very flattering combination of blonde and brown is hot right now. And while it does work best on those with warm skin tones, unlike its sister shade blonde, there is no limit to being creative with this colour. If you’re blonde, the darker hues add depth, while those softer caramel blondes give instant illumination to a dark brunette. The key to achieving this colour is to have lots of the natural base shade of 4, 5 and 6 showing through, then add fine ribbons of gold to complement the eye and skin tone. The lighter ribbons create movement and texture on fine hair, and a youthful lift when placed around your face. Bronde colour placement can be used to highlight specific facial areas. For example, it can lift and enhance cheekbones or elongate the neck by adding lighter tones in this area. It’s also great for enhancing or concealing.
BRONDE TECHNIQUES Bronding The term coined for the mix of brunette and blonde when created on a dark brown base. Using tones of honey and platinum blonde highlights, or darker shades of chestnut and mahogany, are especially flattering when added to layered wavy cuts.
Halo lights A highlighting method specifically designed for short hair placed only around the face. Halo highlighting is all about the placement of colour within a cut to emphasise the shape and movement. Traditional highlights can look 2D and flat on shorter hair, or worse, spotty and patchy. But this technique avoids that result together when colour is smudged through the top surface layers to lighten the complexion.
Post-colour hair needs Minu Colour Lock In Salon Treatment. Davines’ professional fixative colour fluid gently closes the cuticles after colouring, compacting the structure of the hair increasing shine and colour longevity. www.boutiquebrands.co.nz
New colour crush > Paul Mitchell’s latest colour launch, Demi and Pop XG, offers a range of naturally vibrant reds, through to rich brunettes and cool blondes, as well as those directional fashion options. A gentle conditioning formula that mixes from a liquid to a gel-like consistency, it can be applied from a bottle and brushed on. There are 27 shades, from rich chocolate brunette, to natural-looking coral, or icy platinum. Contact www.boutiquebrands.co.nz
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Liven up brunette locks > Redken Midnight Edge is for brunettes who want to embrace the bold and bright hair trend. Designed for brown-haired girls looking to get a deep, vibrant blue hue, this dramatic new colour look is accentuated using Redken’s Chromatics and City Beats permanent colour, along with an ‘Edging Colour Brush’. To help the brand turn heads, Redken have used gorgeous model Crystal Renn as its muse. “Hair colour is the new makeup,” says Redken artist Sean Godard, who created Renn's look for the brand. “Gone are the days when one visited their colourist every six weeks for root touch-ups or a tint. Today, technology has allowed stylists to offer fun colour without compromising hair’s integrity - now you can change up your hair colour as often as you change your lipstick.
Serious Moisture R+CO High Dive Essential for repairing hair post-summer, plunge into deep hydration and reflective shine with this nourishing styling cream that doubles as a leavein conditioner from R+CO. Designed to smooth hair and drown out frizz, work through towel-dried hair blow-dry. For stockist details visit www.boutiquebrands.co.nz
Natural assets
Black Angel
Colour enhancing shampoo and conditioners are essential for maintaining shine and colour intensity. De Lorenzo Novafusion Colour Care Shampoo (1) contains extracts of Kakadu plum, Rooibos and birch to naturally restore colour vibrancy and prevent colour fade, thanks to UV inhibitors and botanical extracts that help improve the health of hair. www.phb.net.nz To extend the look of your colour, try De Lorenzo Novasemi Soft Colour Mousse (2). Ammonia and peroxidefree, it contains nourishing botanicals including arnica, chamomile flower and wattle seed extracts. There are 10 shades that last up to 1 eight shampoos. While this mousse allows you to enhance the tone of your colour, there is no damage to the natural pigment but the great news is that it will blend up to 30 percent grey.
The latest environmentally conscious range of men's hair care is from Black Angel En Provence. It contains the best from nature to treat every man's hair and scalp concerns. No animal testing or any nasties such as parabens, paraffin oil or sodium lauryl sulfates, this range gentle, yet super effective. Pictured here Hair Regrowth Serum and Matte Texture Paste Medium Hold. Stockists enquires www.phb.net.nz
2
PHOTOGRAPHY Instagram and supplied
For more information visit www.redken.co.nz
For stockist enquires
visit www.phb.net.nz
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Hair | BRONDE
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APRAISE Brow Styling Wax APRAISE Eyebrow Shaping Wax creates striking brows that make an impact. This colourless wax for shaping, defining and fixing brows, can be used alone for a simple, sleek look, or used before adding colour for a high definition effect.
Floating lights Those with fine, thin hair will love this result, which involves placing graduated colour away from the roots, lower down the length of the hair shaft. It is ideal for adding 3D definition and creating the illusion of thicker hair.
Available at www.dateline.co.nz
Ribbon technique Fine ribbons of hair from beneath the natural parting are separated and lightened to create flashes of multi-dimensional texture. This technique adds a subtle colour change and is perfect for creating soft movement on straight hair. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s also ideal for brunettes wanting to add warmth with hidden bands of copper, bronze and cinnamon, or for blondes looking to add soft buttery highlights for warmth, or platinum tones to neutralise yellow.
Interlacing
TH R E ND
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RIFTS
This technique is achieved by plaiting the hair and painting on colour freehand. The colour is lighter, creating a glistening effect when it catches the light, best created on wavy hair in order to show off the shimmer.
@songofstyle
Balayage bleach For freehand colour creation, new this month is Robert De Soto Balayage Bleach. This clay-based formula wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t drip or migrate, so you can be creative with freehand colouring techniques. Available in blue, white and purple, there is also Robert De Soto Balayage Film; one box contains 30cm x 15cm perforated sheets. Available at www.dateline.co.nz
@
ROBERT DE
SOTO
IN
BLUE
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Headway Hair | THE| PROMOTION EGG
THE EGG By CALLUM STANDEN MAY
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MAKE UP: MADDIE AUSTIN. PHOTOGRAPHY: RICHARD MILES
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Hair | THE EGG
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Headway | PROMOTION
Trend setting? What’s trending? Over the years, we’ve seen many style trends flow through the market; think Vidal Sassoon who changed the way everyone looked at hair in the 60s. It’s trends like Sassoon’s that have shaped the hair industry for decades. But what are the business trends we should be looking at? We’ve analysed over seven million appointments across New Zealand and Australia and identified some key trends that have occurred over the last five years.
What hasn’t changed? Client revisit period Your client revisit period is a really important number in your business. The length of time clients take between appointments has a huge impact on your annual revenue, and reducing it by even the shortest amount of time will result in a massive jump in revenue. In the last quarter of 2011, we saw a client revisit period of 40 days (5 weeks and 5 days). However, since 2012 New Zealand has experienced a consistent client revisit period of 46 days (6 weeks and 4 days). This revisit period increase of 6 days has, on average, decreased salon revenue by $1,400 per week. Interestingly, Australia has historically had a higher client revisit period compared to New Zealand by two days.
Retail spend Over the past five years, we’ve seen no change in retail. Retail revenue, retail spend per client and the number of clients purchasing retail has remained level. Of course, the Christmas period continues to bring a peak to sales.
Rise of the super salon Thought of as the next big thing, super salons haven’t become a large segment in the industry. Instead of the best salons bulging with a tonne of stylists, needing larger premises and becoming super popular, the market has maintained a range of salon sizes. In fact, less than 2 percent of salons have 15 or more staff.
What’s changed? We’re beating Australia in rebooking That’s right, when it comes to rebooking rates, we’re well ahead of Australia! Data over the past five years shows that we’re hitting an average rebooking rate of 58%, up from 49% in 2011. Why? We think we’re more aware of our rebooking rate as a crucial indicator of business performance and the easiest way to ensure we’ve got dollars coming in the future. It seems Australia didn’t quite catch onto this as quickly and five years ago had an average rebooking rate of 33 percent. Fast forward to 2016 and they’re now sitting at 42 percent. Rebooking percentages in New Zealand and Australia have both increased by 9 percent - it’ll be interesting to see if they can catch up to us!
Trends are cyclic. And when it comes to business some have shaped the past and the future. Tom Murphy, CEO of Kitomba shares his insights.
Online Booking The ability to book online has seriously changed the behaviour of clients. In New Zealand, 10 percent of all bookings are now made via Online Booking. That’s ahead of Australia who are sitting at 9% of bookings, but interestingly, just behind the UK which experiences 12% of bookings taken via Online Booking. This isn’t exactly surprising when this feature provides your clients with the convenience and flexibility they need to book with you when it suits them, frees up your phone and boosts client happiness!
Colour trend Our data shows that the average number of colour clients has remained the same. What’s interesting is that the average client colour spend has increased over the same period by 12.5 percent - an increase from $96 to $108. There could be a number of reasons for this. A huge
Year
Client revisit period
Decrease in revenue due to change in revisit period
2011
40 days (5 weeks, 5 days)
-
2012-2016
46 days (6 weeks, 4 days)
$1,400 per week
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rise in colour trends, new products and an increase in value perceived by clients for colour services, therefore a willingness to pay more.
Revenue is trending up Revenue for services is on a strong upward trend. Clients are spending more overall, not just on colour, with the industry experiencing a 15 percent increase in average client spend over the past five years. Year on year, that’s an average increase of 2.8 percent and with inflation increasing just 1 percent each year, salons should have noticed a healthy revenue increase. If you’re not, you need to ask yourself if your prices are right. Perhaps it’s time for an increase.
Is there an opportunity? The New Zealand Economy According to Westpac-McDermott Miller, consumer confidence has majorly increased since the end of 2016 in New Zealand. Households are in a better financial situation increasing disposable income. A healthy economy is vital to the willingness of clients to spend more with your business.
Get Online Booking If you don’t have Online Booking, you need to now! Provide your clients with the flexibility and convenience of booking whenever it suits them, increase your bookings and make more money. We’ve found that 1 in 10 appointments are cancelled or end as a no-show, so reduce these by taking a deposit when your clients make an appointment via Online Booking.
We can change the numbers It’s clear we have the ability to change the numbers! Just look at the incredible increase in rebooking rates over the past five years. We can tell you that didn’t “just
happen”; it’s because there has been a real focus on the importance of this number.
Sell more Ensuring you continue to increase prices year-on-year is really important, particularly when you see that it has delivered a 15 percent increase in revenue over the last 5 years. Regular price reviews are a great idea. But what else can you do to sell more? Sell more colours, sell more treatments? Yes, but the simplest way to sell more is to change your client revisit period. That’s right, simply focus on getting your clients to visit more regularly and you’ll be selling more services with ease!
Reduce your client revisit period and make $46,000 Changing your client revisit period can have a huge impact on your business. Across the New Zealand salons we analysed, we found on average they completed 95 appointments a week and the average client revisit period is 46 days (6 weeks, 4 days). If a salon made it their mission to reduce their revisit period back down to 42 days (6 weeks), they would have the ability to increase their client visits by 9 appointments each week. Based on an average client spend of $99, that’s an extra $900 per week, or $46,000 per year! So run your reports, take a look at the numbers and set a new revisit period goal. If your software doesn’t report on client revisit period, then get software that does (like Kitomba). Then get your team involved, explain why it’s important and how you’re going to reduce your client revisit period. Set a weekly meeting to determine how you’re tracking, create a competition between your stylists or treat them to something if they hit your target - whatever it takes to reduce your client revisit rate and increase your revenue.
Tom Murphy is the founder and CEO of Kitomba Salon & Spa Software, New Zealand’s number one salon and spa software provider. To learn more about Kitomba, visit www.kitomba.com or call 0800 161 101.
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DANNY AN
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Hair | PROFILE
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There is something very satisfying about giving back, a sentiment that the team at d&m Hair Design are embracing with an up and coming charity auction. Trudi Brewer talks to stylist Danny Pato about his latest project.
FALLEN Celebrating ten years in business often involves drinking copious amounts of champagne and lots of self-adoration not for the team at d&m Hair Design. This year, they are looking to share their success with others in need. What started as a small hair salon in Ponsonby 10 years ago, d&m Hair Design is now one of Auckland’s most luxurious, cutting-edge hair salons. With a staff of 11, a celebrity clientele, and stints working backstage at fashion weeks across the globe, the team have also celebrated success with some prestigious awards, including the current accolade held by Pato of Hair Expo NZ Hairdresser of the Year 2016. Over this past decade, the team have created an impressive collection of images by the late fashion photographer Craig Owen, and photographer Mara Sommer, which they have printed and framed with the support of PCL Imaging and plan to sell to raise money for charity, KidsCan. It was after becoming involved with KidsCan over a year ago that owners Pato, Michael Sisaengrath, and the d&m team felt deeply affected by the support so many young kids in New Zealand need. “The d&m team members loved spending time with the kids. We speak about what a career in hairdressing has done for us, in the hope of inspiring some of them with career choices,” says Pato. “On our last trip to Rongomai Primary School, one boy was so adorable. When I asked him why he was so happy, he said it was because he could give the brush to his mum - that was truly touching. They were so grateful, happy and excited.” D&M is hosting the archive exhibition of their award-winning collections 30 March 2017. For details prior to the auction visit www.dandm.auction Images of the collections to be auctioned on the night.
“The d&m team members loved spending time with the kids.”
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o+x Craig Owen
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The team from d&m handing out hair brushes to school kids.
R
ABOUT KIDSCAN
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OWEN
“Children who miss out on the basics get sick more often, do worse at school and when they become adults, are more likely to be unemployed.”
IG
Not all kids have the same start in life. The KidsCan Charitable Trust was founded on the belief that education equals opportunity, and every child, regardless of their social or economic background, should have an equal chance. An evaluation revealed that thousands of children were turning up to school cold, wet and hungry because their parents were struggling to make ends meet. Schools reported that this was having a significant impact on children’s learning ability, self-esteem and health. Children who miss out on the basics get sick more often, do worse at school and when they become adults, are more likely to be unemployed and have children who will also grow up in hardship. Today, KidsCan supports the education of over 137,000 children in 600 low-decile schools throughout New Zealand, providing food, shoes, socks, fleece-lined raincoats and basic hygiene items. These tangible programmes ensure disadvantaged children can get to school and walk through the school gates in a better position to learn. KidsCan currently has 17 schools on their waiting list right now – that’s 1490 kids still needing BY CR A support. D
PHOTOGRAPHY supplied
Decora by Mara Sommer
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Organic vs Natural E
ach year, the natural and organic sector within the hair and beauty industry continues to experience double-digit growth; in some categories it is outpacing mainstream beauty. Natural beauty is nothing new, but what has changed is how organic haircare is shedding its hippie, tree-hugging image and becoming mainstream. In the same way we are searching for organic food and organic lifestyle solutions, organic beauty solutions is climbing to the top of that list. What we put on our skin and in our hair is of great interest to women of all ages. To clarify this growing trend, Vicki King from New Zealand’s leading organic haircare company, Organic Colour Systems, sheds some light on what is on offer from Mother Nature.
THERE IS OFTEN CONFUSION AROUND NATURAL AND ORGANIC. CAN YOU EXPLAIN THE DIFFERENCE? Natural ingredients are derived from a natural source, rather than manmade synthetic ingredients. But organic ingredients have to adhere to very strict standards regulated by a certification body that covers everything from the soil quality, to growing and handling restrictions, to working conditions and fair wages for employees, packaging and distribution. At Organic Colour Systems, we use UK Soil Association and Ecocert-
approved ingredients. And when organic is not available, we then source natural ingredients with fair trade agreements.
WHAT IS THE BENEFIT TO YOUR HEALTH BY USING ORGANIC HAIRCARE? The immediate benefit is to the condition of the hair. Organic ingredients are more gentle and ultimately more effective than man-made alternatives. When you stop working with plastics and silicones and replace them with ingredients that feed and repair the delicate structure of the hair, you start seeing some pretty breathtaking changes. Then there are the overall health benefits you experience when you start eliminating the nasties from your everyday life. Stylists are exposed to harmful chemicals. We hear so many stories of ongoing conditions like headaches, sinus issues, and skin conditions all but clearing up when salons switch to using Organic Colour Systems. And that’s just the obvious stuff. The more we can limit our exposure to harmful chemicals and reduce our toxicity levels the better.
HOW DO YOU KNOW IF THE BRANDS YOU CHOOSE ARE NATURAL OR ORGANIC? WHAT SHOULD YOU LOOK FOR AS A CONSUMER? Forget slogans; it’s easy to write slogans that grab people’s attention on a box. If you want organic, it’s the certification you need to verify. Look for ‘certified
The fastest growing category when it comes to haircare is naturals. But as Trudi Brewer discovers, there is also lots of confusion around what's on offer from Mother Nature. organic ingredients’ - they will be marked with a ** on the ingredients list - and the certification body will be named.
CAN PERMANENT HAIR COLOUR BE 100 PERCENT ORGANIC AND STILL BE EFFICACIOUS? Unfortunately not. At this stage, permanent colour can’t be 100 percent organic (unless it’s Henna powder, which has massive limitations) and any claim to the contrary is misleading. But Organic Colour Systems uses the highest percentage of certified organic ingredients in any permanent professional hair colour on the market - up to 65 percent organic and 95 percent natural.
CAN IT STILL COVER GREYS? Yes, we get 100 percent grey coverage with Organic Colour Systems. But experienced hairdressers understand there’s no such thing as a 100 percent natural permanent colour. Unfortunately, 100 percent grey coverage requires synthetic oxidative
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Hair | ORGANIC VS NATURAL
pigments that as yet have no effective natural alternative.
are some pretty exciting innovations coming in this area.
WHAT ARE THE BUZZ INGREDIENTS IN NATURAL AND ORGANIC HAIRCARE RIGHT NOW?
MULTI-PURPOSE PRODUCTS, SHAMPOOS THAT TREAT THE SCALP AND STYLING PRODUCTS THAT HYDRATE THE HAIR, ARE THE LATEST BUZZ IN HAIRCARE. HOW DO NATURAL HAIR BRANDS COMPETE IN THIS AREA?
We’ve been adding quinoa to our products for years. Regarded as a super protein, it repairs the hair with amazing results. I suspect we’ll see a lot more quinoa in the hair industry moving forward.
Often synthetic ingredients are used for "quick fix" results, which sits outside our ethos. We believe in a long-term holistic approach repairing the hair to its natural strength then maintaining its integrity on all levels; colour, curl, straightening, care, and styling. You can do it; you just need to take the time to properly analyse the hair and have the right products at your disposal to repair and maintain it. But what you do find with natural products, which aren’t coating the hair and clogging up pores, is that common issues, like oil and dandruff, become very rare, so you do get multiple benefits.
OILS ARE HUGE WITH HAIR CARE BRANDS. WHAT ARE THE “Look at what BEST NATURAL AND ORGANIC you do every OILS FOR THE day and ask HAIR?
What’s new
Organic Colour Systems AquaBoost Shampoo and Conditioner. PowerBuild Revamp.
whether you can do it organically, sustainably, ethically, and naturally.”
Argan oil is probably the best known and most widely used oil on the market, but there are also other fantastic oils that add moisture to the hair. Jojoba, Sweet Almond, Macadamia and Olive Oil are all great. A word of caution though for clients using coconut oil to make hair treatments at home - don’t! Most coconut oils sit at a very high pH and do more damage than good. This oil is great for your insides, but not so good for your hair or skin.
ILLUSTRATION BeautyEQ
TECHNOLOGY PLAYS A HUGE PART IN THIS TREND. WHAT ARE THE EXCITING INNOVATIONS REGARDING FORMULATIONS? The ultimate goal is to create a permanent colour range with 100 percent natural pigments. We’ve been working on one for some time, and it’s proving difficult. But there will be an exciting new 100 percent natural semi-permanent colour on the market soon from Organic Colour Systems. Also, keep an eye out for natural anti hair-loss systems. With the efficacy of organic and natural ingredients, there
WHAT IS YOUR BEST ADVICE FOR A SALON WANTING TO GO ORGANIC WITH THEIR HAIRCARE OFFERING? Fully commit to being organic. It is more than a marketing ploy; it’s a complete reset. Look at what you do every day and ask whether you can do it organically, sustainably, ethically, and naturally. Don’t fall for the 'quick fix' - quick fix and organic are not a good marriage. There are salon practice changes that come with moving to organics, but they do become positives in the long run. For more information on organic haircare visit: www.organiccoloursystems.com
Latest colour inspiration from Organic Colour Systems.
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STRAIGHT F ROM THE AMAZON The latest buzz in hair straightening is a natural range of products found in Brazil.
I
n today’s hair-conscious world, different methods of hair straightening have been under fire. There’s been a tremendous amount of miss-information and most women think in order to achieve straight, beautiful hair you have to apply harsh chemicals for it to stay that way. Hair straighteners are not always the best choice either, some damage hair leaving it coarse, frizzy and dry. Argila Amazonia have released an all natural straightening system that produces effective and longlasting results, proven to enhance hair’s health.
WHAT IS ARGILA AMAZONIA? Argila Amazonia is a revolutionary hair-straightening system that provides lasting results. Using all-natural ingredients from the Amazon, such as White Argila Clay and Murumuru Oil, Argila Amazonia leaves hair smooth and silky soft. Pure, rare and rich in nutrients, White Argila Clay is the active ingredient in this groundbreaking system. It contains minerals that enhance hair’s health, such as magnesium, copper, zinc, aluminium, potassium and iron.
HOW IS THIS DIFFERENT FROM OTHER METHODS OF HAIR STRAIGHTENING? Argilatherapy products work on a cellular level, allowing for deep restoration without damaging the core DNA or the hair. There are no chemicals or toxic agents that can damage hair’s health, as the products contain all-natural ingredients from the Amazon. Argila Amazonia formulations are free of formaldehyde, parabens, ammonia, dyes or any in the same vein.
HOW LONG DOES THE TREATMENT LAST? The result lasts four months, depending on the type and the texture of the hair. Individual application ensures outstanding results on all hair types.
Murumuru Sealer Protection and Shine Spray.
WHAT ARE THE KEY NATURAL INGREDIENTS USED IN ARGILA AMAZONIA AND WHAT DO THEY DO? Amazonian White Argila Clay White Argila Clay comes from an island in Brazil called Marajo. The climate leads to the foundation of White Argila Clay, found exclusively on the island. The clay forms through the decomposition of certain rocks over a period of thousands of years. Its rich in minerals and metals such as titanium, magnesium, copper , zinc, aluminium, calcium, lithium, iron and trace elements. This one of a kind clay is extremely beneficial to human health.
Murumuru Oil Murumuru oil offers numerous advantages to our skin and hair as it’s a highly effective emollient and moisturiser. It helps hair recover from loss of moisture and regain its natural elasticity. Murumuru oil is a powerful, nourishing anti-frizz oil.
Argila Amazonia – Argilatherapy Argilatherapy’s principal function is to remove toxins and impurities, allowing the full reconstruction of hair follicles. The healing power of White Argila Clay combines with the rich fatty acids present in Murumuru Oil to create a powerful defence against the chemical and environmental damage on hair. For stockist enquires www.phb.net.nz
Argila a m a zo nia
WHAT’S THE PROCESS OF THE ARGILA AMAZONIA SYSTEM? The unique hair straightening system comes with four products; Detoxifier Pretreatment Shampoo, Argila Activator Straightening Cream Solution, Argila Smooth Prolonging Mask and the
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GET CREATIVE WITH BROW COLOUR!
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First use Blonde Brow to create a light brow shade. Then mix Red and a dot of Deep Blue to achieve a pastel rose colour.
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t’s funny how life events are cyclic. enthusiastic I started my 17-yea r-old career as apprentice and now his an at Rodney latest collec Wayne in tion graces Howick, issue. And the cover I could not of this summ be more chuffe Becom ing er d. a haird resser It has prove was the best d to be one career choic of the most has it taugh e I made. invaluable t me the very skills I posse usefu l art me as a perso ss. Not only of trimm n while influe ing my fringe to communica ncing my , it has shape entire caree te with anyon d r. From learni e, to the craft living anyw ng how here; even that has enabl picking up Greece. As ed me to earn my scissors a carefree a to cut hair 23-year-old memories, on the beach on her O.E a brillia nt in it paid my tan and life-lo way for some It has also ng friendships great been a skill along the way. I have share my friend’s d with love hair for their over the years wedd ings recently, cuttin . From stylin and signif g their kid’s g icant birthd hair, while were just too ays, to more they wran exhausted gled babies to leave the work in a salon at home and house. Altho but opted for ugh I did not a career in included beaut continue to media, my y writing, editing roles with hair connected have alway advice often to this indus s centra try has l to that. Stayin people and meant I have Rodney Wayn worked with g e is one of some outsta ignificant and them. He has nding constant mento been one of e is aston ishing rs. Always my most available and ly generous always suppo with his time man who expec rtive, and his wisdo ts excellence m. And while from his team, e ladder of he is success with he helps those both hands around him st media to . I was deligh up view his new ted to be one collection lieve ‘Get Your of the very and without Game On’ sound ing bias, is one of his motivation I truly best yet. You behind the can read all collection from his creati about Kavanagh ve team, Richa and Lachlan rd McPherson the scenes , and view images from behind the shoot in 35. Each look Sydney on speaks to page a lasting trend the standouts , and one is ‘Low and of Tight’. This that excep tional barbe is evidence ring has becom an art form e specia lised, in many salon s. We showc and the latest ase this skill trends from barbers at of this move the forefront ment from page 76. We rules when investigate it comes to the wearing red-h summer on ot colou r this page 23. We also present four and two luxur new salons y day spas to inspire a new busin anyone consi ess ventu re. dering Read exper owners who t advice from have blaze d a trail in the spaces from creating truly page 59. unique As staunch advocates ble sun worsh for safe tanni iping years ng (despite ago on that ach season my beach in Greec St. Tropez never fails e), we marv And finally, to tempt el us we round up with excep tional faux the most innov trends set ative beaut to become y game resolu We hope this -changers tions; in the world issue offers of hair and you some aping up to inspiration be a busy start to help kick-s to the New you a happy tart Year. and prosperous 2017.
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Breast Cancer Cure 0800 227 828 www.breastcancercure.org.nz
Kitomba 0800 161 101 www.kitomba.com/nz
Brelil Professional 07 847 8350 sales@phb.net.nz www.phb.net.nz
La Clinica +61 3 9799 8803 helpdesk@laclinica.com www.laclinica.com
CS&Co 0800 604 604 www.cs.co.nz Selfie with Rodney Wayne at the recent Rodney Wayne team awards evening .
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MASK WIT IS THE NEW H VIBRACHRO TM THAT DEL M IVERS MORE COLOUR CONDITION THANKS TO ING SHINE AND THE INNOV LONG LASTIN SYSTEM ATIVE SPIR G COLOUR TO COMBIN IT OF DAVINES LAB E NATURE ORATORIES WITH THE LATEST TEC HNOLOGIES DAVIN ES MASK WITH IN COSMETIC 080 0 25 25 VIBR ACHR S AND TEX OM COLO 30 / EMAI L HELL O@BO UR IS AVAIL TILES. ABLE IN UTIQU EBR NEW ZE AL ANDS .CO.N Z / FACE BOOK
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OBSERV Skin Diagnostic Device 09 817 4807 enquires@observ.co.nz www.observ.co.nz Olaplex enquiries@olaplex.co.nz www.olaplex.co.nz Organic Colour Systems www.organiccoloursystems.co.nz
Foil Republic 0800 604 604 www.cs.co.nz
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Joico (09) 306 1200 info@sabre-group.com www.joico.co.nz
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Joyce Blok Vitamin E15% A daily dose of hydration and perfect for redness and sensitivity. This antioxidant & anti-inflammatory serum renews, softens and protects damaged skin from free radicals and environmental damage. Considered to be the ultimate lipid-soluble antioxidant and free-radical scavenger, vitamin E provides an ideal antidote to protect New Zealand skin against daily encounters with high levels of environmental pollution, oxidation and year round UV exposure.
For details on becoming a Joyce Blok stockist or to find a Joyce Blok spa or salon near you, contact us on:
T: 0800 105 107 • E: info@joyceblok.co.nz • www.joyceblok.co.nz facebook.com/joyceblok • @joycebloknz
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Beauty
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Sothys autumn winter collection Seeking inspiration from the city of romance comes â&#x20AC;&#x153;Autumn in Parisâ&#x20AC;?, a new seasonal collecion brimming with soft, sexy shades. Use the eye shadow pencils to create a sultry, buffed-out smokey eye, or a gorgeous bold brow with a hint of soft apricot on the cheeks with this collection you will be spoilt for choice.
Beauty news By SARAH SIMPSON
SOTHYS COSMECEUTIQUE PROTECT & REPAIR LINE
Retinol + 5 Acids To give your clients the next level skin refining treatment they will love, check out the latest professional LA CLINICA Age Reversal products. Designed to give skin that welcome glow, brilliant for the change of season, this new 5 Layer Skin Peel Treatment includes five different acids including salicylic, glycolic, multi fruit, gluconolactone and lactobionic acids. As well as a three percent Retinol Serum, Peel Enzyme, and Multi Vitamin Infsuio Mask. To celebrate the launch of these products, LA CLINICA will be offering a special package. For more information, visit www.laclinica.com or call 021 99 SKIN (021 997546)
Contains four targeted products that treat skin temporarily after any facial procedures. Stacked with growth factors to heal skin with any inflammation brought on by chemical peels, laser, dermabrasion and needling. Contact: info@despacosmatics.co.nz or 0800 768 497
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Beauty | NEWS
JANE IREDALE AUTUMN COLLECTION 2017 This beautiful new collection for autumn is bursting with gorgeous shades, which include deep plums, shimmery soft pinks and rose beige, making it a warm offering for the cooler months. Autuumn never looked so pretty.
SOTHYS ORANGE AND KUMQUAT SEASONAL FACIAL
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COLOUR FLASH The latest launches from MAC, Colour Rocket and Work it Out, are bursting with bright colours and we love the brave, bold shades in the collections. In line with the experimental shades we see in hair colour, cosmetics are never far behind in the trends. We don’t like to play favourites, but these did jump out for their fun and flirty nature: Colour Rocker Lipsticks in Blue ClemenBang, Breathing Fire, Darling Clemen tine, Deep with Envy, Flatter me Fierce and Jean Genie.
Flat ter me Fierce
Line it up Adding to her already bustling business in lipstick, the Queen of natural lippies, Karen Murrell, has extended her offering to include liners. Made from natural, nourishing ingredients, including jojoba seed oil, candelilla, carnuba wax and antioxidant Vitamin E , these liners promise to define and moisturise your pout. With five shades to choose from, it won’t be hard to find your perfect match.
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Darling Clemetine
Refectocil's Brow Styling Strips take only two minutes to create perfectly shaped 'wow' brows! Well groomed brows frame the face, give definition and reflect your individual style. These unique wax strips are suitable for creating any brow shape - fast. There are 30 applications per pack. For stockists www.refectocil.com.au
An essential dose of minerals and an exclusive oxygen complex are combined with the antioxidant-rich orange and kumquat extracts. A delicious ‘citrus splash’ for skin, this treatment will have skin glowing and nourished, ready for winter. Contact: info@despacosmatics.co.nz or 0800 768 497
Blue Bang
Forget plucking!
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Turn back time New to the Decleor family comes the Orexellence range, designed to tackle a loss of collagen density and dullness – essentially, our prayers have been answered. The Orexcellence range includes 5 antiaging treatments, each designed to target different concerns. We run you through the new range. 1. Aromessence Magnolia is a superserum that targets aging like nothing else can and deeply nourishes skin with a gossamer texture. 2. Energy Concentrate Youth Cream; a velvety textured daily revitalising necessity enriched with mango and shea butter, to plump and tone skin. 3. Energy Concentrate Youth Eye Care is designed to wake up your eye zone with decongesting caffeine and a skin firming peptide cocktail – expect to see a reduction in dark circles and puffiness. 4. Energy Concentrate Youth Mask is a creamy texture full of active antiaging ingredients, which combine forces to hydrate, plump and give skin a youthful glow. 5. And for the mornings, Aromessence Magnolia Youthful Night Balm is the ideal batteryrecharging companion for increased hydration and vitality.
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Your key to the world of PAIN FREE HAIR REMOVAL! Waxing IPL Cosmetic Tattooing Laser Epilation Micro-Needling
Natural Beauty If you crave a natural alternative to mascara but have can’t find one that delivers, the search is over. 100% vegan and 98% organic, new Eye of Horus Lash Lift Mascara promises to answer your plight. Plant-derived collagen, botanicals and marine algae are combined to create this results-driven mascara, which works to increase volume and length, not to mention promoting growth. If you are seeking a natural solution, you need not look further.
BRONZED GODDESS Keep your summer longer thanks to this new launch from St Tropez. We love the mousse formulation, Everyday Mousse, which glides onto skin easily and with its tinted formulation, you know exactly where you have applied it. Team the mousse with a tanning glove to make the application even more seamless - it’s a winter essential.
Love Your Skin
Suppliers of medical and professional skincare
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Fleur De Mer Vitamin C Serum Specially formulated for effective delivery, Fleur De Mer’s Vitamin C Serum uses an encapsulated and stabilised version of vitamin C in the form of L-Ascorbic Acid. This highly active formula will encourage a brighter complexion, specifically targeting pigmentation irregularities, reducing signs of fine lines on the face and eye contours, revitalising skin texture, and stimulating collagen, all while providing the essential benefits of an antioxidant. Available in both 11 and 20%.
Fleur De Mer Rosacea and Sensitive Skin Serum This serum is a potent blend of the most active and, most importantly, proven antiinflammatories, together with a new and successfully researched peptide. It intensifies and quickens the benefits of your usual sensitive skin products and treatments.
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OUT DAMN SPOT Brown spots, age spots or hyperpigmentation is a curse for many sun-loving complexions. Dr Catherine Stone from The Face Place explains how this ageing concern can be corrected. 11 HEADWAY.NET.NZ
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Beauty | CATHERINE STONE
B
rown spots or black patches of discolouration on the skin appear due to abnormal production or metabolism of the skin pigment - melanin which create an uneven skin tone, described as pigmentation. Melanin is produced by cells in the skin called melanocytes and is what gives both our skin and hair its colour.
scarring. This is called post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), and can often be quite difficult to treat - although it can also often spontaneously improve over weeks or months.
TO GIVE YOU A QUICK BIOLOGY LESSON:
It’s important to be guided by an experienced Medical Skin Therapist or clinician when treating pigmentation, as they can more accurately assess the level and type of pigmentation, which will determine the best treatment solutions for you. The cornerstone of treating brown spots of any type is using a combination of Vitamin A and Vitamin C serums applied on a daily basis to help normalise both the melanin production and the DNA. Some will also benefit from using Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) serums, and tyrosinase-inhibitors (which work on suppressing the enzyme tyrosinase which is essential in the formation of melanin). Once the skin is prepped using skin care, IPL (intense pulsed light) can be used to break down the existing superficial pigmentation caused by photodamage. It's important to continue to use the vitamin A and C creams, as IPL only breaks down the pigment present in skin; it cannot normalise the DNA. Without normalising the DNA, the pigment will continue to build up in the skin again and will reoccur. Regular nutritional light ‘peels’ can be effective for helping with sun-damaged skin, although they need to be used with care in people suffering from melasma and PIH. The latest trends include medical needling or Ionto/sonophoresis (electrical current and ultrasound) combined with topical vitamins A, C and B3, plus antioxidants to improve the penetration of these highly effective products to the deepest levels where the pigmentation forms.
There are two types of melanin: Eumelanin, which is a dark brownish-black colour; and Phaeomelanin, which is a yellowish red. The different mixtures of the two melanin types give the wide variety of skin and hair colour. White hair or skin has no melanin, while redheads have smaller clusters of phaeomelanin, and dark skin has larger deposits of Eumelanin. Eumelanin is a strong free-radical scavenger and deactivates free radicals caused by UV damage. Phaeomelanin (the reddishbrown form) aggravates the effects of the sun, which is why redheads tend to be more sensitive to sun damage.
WHY DOES IT OCCUR?
WHAT ARE THE LATEST TRENDS TO ELIMINATE DARK SPOTS AND HOW CAN YOU PREVENT THEM FROM RETURNING?
The cornerstone of treating brown spots of any type is using a combination of vitamin A and vitamin C serums applied on a daily basis
Abnormal melanin production can occur as a result of sun damage (photo ageing), hormones, or trauma to the skin. When exposed to the sun’s UV rays, the melanin goes darker in an attempt to protect the skin cells’ DNA. This is commonly called a ‘tan’ but is an ineffective way to prevent sun damage, as the UV exposure creates more damage to the skin cells than what the melanin can prevent. With repeated sun damage over time, the DNA of the damaged cells become distorted, leading to abnormal pigmentation - brownish patches on the skin which can progress to ‘solar keratoses’ or ‘sun spots’, and could eventually lead to skin cancer. Hormones from pregnancy, the oral contraceptive, or some medical conditions can cause a distinctive ‘butterfly-shaped’ pigmentation on the cheeks and forehead called Melasma (or chloasma). This pigmentation sits more deeply on the skin than excess melanin from sun damage and is a lot harder to treat. Stopping the hormonal stimulation is usually the best way to treat this form of pigmentation, although it can take months to years to improve. If you have Asian, Maori or darker skin, you may have a tendency towards developing pigmentation after any trauma to the skin, even mild trauma like vigorous exfoliation, and commonly in association with acne or
WHAT’S NEXT WHEN IT COMES TO ACHIEVING SKIN CLARITY? Skin clarity is not just about improving the pigmentation in the skin; it’s also about improving skin luminosity and colour by enhancing blood flow, reducing pore size, and increasing the thickness and texture of skin. I believe the best treatment for improving overall skin clarity and texture is the Vampire Facial Plus - a groundbreaking treatment that combines needling, plus hydrating hyaluronic acid (HA), and PRP (the healing parts of your blood). HEADWAY.NET.NZ 12
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Beauty | FEATURE
The A-class ingredient
Any beauty expert will tell you the “gold standard” anti-ageing ingredient is retinol. But wait, there is more. Trudi Brewer explains.
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he number one age-eraser is still vitamin A, or as it's known in many other forms, retinol. From daytime use, to the perfect measured daily dose, here is why you need this A-list active in your daily skincare regime. If you're in your 30's and don't use a vitamin A-based skin cream, you're missing out on the chance to change the look and feel of your skin. Thanks to some new research and innovation right now this safe, serious age-eraser is having a revival.
RETINOL AND THE SUN Retinol used to be an ingredient used only at night - now you have the green light to use it during the day. Las Vegas-based plastic surgeon Goesel Anson, MD, believes that “we used to think that retinoids should be used only at night because they make skin more sensitive to the sun. Rather, the product or formulation itself was unstable in light, sun and air. Modern packaging today keeps the product more stable, so this is less of a concern today.” Washington-based dermatologist Sidney B. Smith, MD, says, “I have my patients use their retinol or retinoid in the morning with at least an SPF 30 sunscreen or at night with hyaluronic acid or a good moisturiser. Both options are effective.” However, all experts agree if you are using a retinol serum or day cream loaded with vitamin A, you must wear an SPF 30. Ohio-based Lu-Jean Feng, MD, says you absolutely must practice safe sun protocols whenever you use it. “I still recommend that if you are using a prescription retinol product, you only apply it at night.”
RETINOL COCKTAIL Combining antioxidants and vitamins is the best approach to giving skin the most potent cocktail of anti-ageing ingredients. Appearance medicine doctors are excited by the combination
of retinol and stem cells. “This combination allows a sensitive patient to experience the benefits of retinol while minimising irritation and inflammation.” For calming any flare-ups, plant-based topical ingredients from various sources are being used to combat sensitivity and irritation.
ENCAPSULATING RETINOL Advancement in how to protect retinol from degrading is one that has chemist and beauty companies pretty excited. Amandine Isnard, head of product development for EVE LOM, says the newest trend is getting the encapsulation of retinol. “This enables a safe, stable and targeted delivery and has been the most advanced innovation recently,” she explains. “You enclose the retinol molecules within a microscopic sphere to protect it from light, oxygen and other aggressors. This not only stabilises the retinol molecule and ensures its maximum potency, but it also facilitates a controlled delivery and drives the active ingredients deep beneath the skin.”
Our top picks
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RETINOL CAN FIRM THE SKIN Once the skin has a regular diet of vitamin A derivatives such as retinol, retinoids and Retin-A, it can build elastin, which is the support network found deep in the dermis. New York dermatologist Dendy Engelman explains. "Retinoic acid is an effective cell-communicating ingredient that can connect to almost any skin cell receptor and tell it to behave like a younger skin cell. It also functions as an antioxidant that can interrupt the free-radical damage process that causes wrinkling and other signs of ageing." And once your skin has a regular diet of vitamin A, it has been shown to increase collagen production and fade brown spots from sun damage. Engelman says there is also emerging research pointing to its ability to build elastin.
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1. Environ Youth EssentiA Serum 2. asap Advanced Eye Complex. 3. La Prairie Cellular Power Charge Night. 4. Dermalogica Age Smart Overnight Retinol Repair. 5. O Cosmedics Retinol Concentrate. 6. Sothys Cosmeceutique Retinol Dermobooster.
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Headway | PROMOTION
Top tips
PHOTOGRAPHY Shutterstock and supplied
1. Always apply retinol-based skincare on dry skin. If it is still wet, this can be the reason for flaking and sensitivity. 2. Introduce vitamin A products slowly, and always begin using them at night. “Start gradually, incorporating it into your evening regimen (sunlight deactivates retinoic acid so you can’t use it during the day) every other day. “This lets your skin gradually acclimate to the more potent level of the product,” says Engelman. “You can also mix it in with your usual moisturiser or facial oil to buffer the irritation (redness, flaking, etc.) that can often come along with using retinol.” 3. Always stop using retinol-based skin care two to five days before and after getting a wax. 4. Less is more - only ever use a pea-size amount for your full face and don’t forget to use retinol-based products on the tops of your hands, your neck and your chest area as well.
Retinol and retinoids contain a form of retinol in ester forms (vitamin A derivatives) like retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate and retinyl linoleate, names you typically see listed on the back of product bottles. All these derivatives must be converted into retinoic acid by the skin at a cellular level to get the maximum benefit. For most women, retinoids and retinol do the same thing, but results can vary depending on the strength and how long you use the product. Most readily available retinol-based products contain a very low dose of active vitamin A, from 0.5-2 percent. Dermatologists and plastic surgeons recommend prescription-based retinoids, such as Retin-A and Tretinoin, and experts agree, a little is better than no retinol in your skincare regime at all. With continued use, you will see an improvement in fine lines, wrinkles, skin tone and texture, and skin will be strengthened and defended against other environment assaults.
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Beauty | TRENDS
Ombre lips
@lou.von.bright
The prettiest lips are still bold and this autumn they are matte red-and-brown ombré. Hot vampire maybe? If you’re not brave enough to wear this blood-red trend, go for a juicy-looking dark plum.
@bitebeauty
@mua_underdogs
That’s right; red, blue and yellow - all three hues are a base to every other cosmetic colour in the rainbow. For a makeup artist, these shades are the key hues to any bold makeup look and guess what? They are trending again. Pick one or blend all three in what Instagram refers to as #sunseteyes
PHOTOGRAPHY Instagram and supplied
Sunset eyes
@lilacbat
Social media influences every aspect of our lives our hair, beauty and makeup routine at the top of that list. Today, anyone can be a makeup artist, and anyone can contour, sculpt and then filter the result. With a myriad of trends to follow - from the more bazaar-like tattoo freckles to mainstream matte lips and seriousstrobing - here are the Insta-worthy trends we are following.
@ellenbourne
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Victoria Beckham Makeup artist Pat McGrath created an understated classic slate-grey cat-eye across modelsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; lids that the makeup legend and her team drew with their fingers. To accompany a well-hydrated skin, highlighting powder helped the grey liner stand out.
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@glossier
@glam.time Bold brows Face-framing, the ultimate accessory backstage at any fashion week across the globe, is a bold, banging brow. And the #inspiration flows on Instagram with tips and tricks from models and makeup artists. We are always searching for bloggers who share their how-to on creating a fuller brow, and the perfect arch.
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@megan_rose_lane
Runway to real way Another rich source of inspiration is the runway, where beauty trends take just weeks to translate into real looks on beauty counters. Here's our pick of Fall 2017 at New York Fashion Week. At Brandon Maxwell, makeup artist Tom Pecheux used jeweltone green and violet eye shadow pigments, then added definition with a black eye pencil, blending the two at the corner of the eye with a damp shadow brush. The pop of colour in the middle section of the lid was created with a dry fluffy brush to give a soft, winged shape. Pecheux said he wanted the eye makeup to look tough but to "have a flavour of colour that brings joy and happiness."
Pink We don't need to remind you how universally flattering pink can be on any skin tone and for every age. Autumn is a great time to wear a dewy, fresh, rosy glow on skin, specifically on cheeks and lips. So if you ever wanted an excuse to ditch brown as your makeup staple, the colour pink is a pretty good option this season.
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Libertine The glossy black liner created at Libertine was the work of New Yorkbased makeup artist Kate Jane Hughes. She mixed charcoal kohl pencil with lip gloss. "We landed on a very graphic look; an unapologetic black cat eye with a glossy lid to give a luxe yet dishevelled textureâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;. Apply the black liner and then a dot of gloss over the top using a fine concealer brush. HEADWAY.NET.NZ 16
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Joyce Blok (1933 - 2016)
We honour the life of a true pioneer and visionary in the New Zealand beauty industry; celebrating the legacy of Joyce Blok. FRESH START When Joyce Blok, a Dutch aesthetician and European trained and qualified beauty therapist migrated to New Zealand with her husband and family at the end of the ‘60s, she never could have realised what an impact she would have on the establishment of the beauty therapy industry and profession in New Zealand. Joyce and her masseur & handyman husband Neil opened one of the country’s first professional clinics in Auckland. Soon word of mouth spread and the Blok’s were often completely booked out for weeks at a time. Joyce and Neil had well and truly sparked an interest in the trade, and recognised an opportunity for a beauty therapy school in the country.
MAKING A MARK In early 1973 they decided to meet the needs of a growing demand and took up the challenge to set up the very first fully fledged professional beauty therapy training school, with Joyce as principal and director.
Fortunately for the future of the profession and industry here, Joyce was determined to provide training comparable with reputable schools in Europe. Subsequently electrolysis, using the blend method developed by US pioneer Arthur Hinkel, was added to the training available. This became Neil Blok’s passion and his research and dedication led the way for the superior blend method long before many overseas countries. It’s safe to say that many of this country’s most successful owners of beauty therapy clinics came through the Joyce Blok School.
NEW LOCATION, NEW BEGINNINGS After a shift to Henderson, and to the affectionately named “Yellow House”, Joyce’s next project was fast approaching. With a need of new products and equipment, the first major obstacle was the necessity of an import license. This became difficult to get so with Joyce’s
Dutch determination and Neil’s skill with his hands, between them they came up with a solution. A story so familiar in beauty and fashion it’s almost a cliché but that’s exactly what Joyce achieved – if you can’t find it, create it, and thus Joyce Blok Skin Care was born. Working with some of Europe’s leading suppliers of natural skin care ingredients such as Carl Richter of Germany, her first products were for her students and clients only, but by 1979 the products went national, and were made available to all trained therapists. In 1986 after nearly 20 years of working seven days a week, Joyce and Neil decided to sell their business to Self Care Group, and retire, moving to sunny Queensland and then on to tropical Bali. A well-deserved break for a pair of true entrepreneurs and pioneers of the New Zealand beauty industry. Self Care Group continued to honour Joyce and Neils’ dream and the brand celebrates 45 years as industry leaders next year. Her legacy is amazing.
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“Many of this country’s most successful owners of beauty therapy clinics came through the Joyce Blok School.”
The future of Joyce Blok
“The Joyce Blok brand has enabled Beauty Therapists in the industry to both peform treatments and retail a New Zealand brand. Being able to offer professional skincare made in NZ is a huge draw card and very appealing to clients who are tuned in to NZ made.” - Joanne Watson, co-owner of Urban Sanctuary in Wellington and stockist of Joyce Blok since 1991. “There is something special about how the range is for the NZ climate and that legacy for beauty therapists has been left by her for future generations to maintain and develop.” - Toni Christensen, owner of Indulge Beauty Therapy in Invercargill and winner of Joyce Blok’s Salon of the Year 2014. “Joyce & Neil Blok were instrumental in creating one of the first natural ranges in the country, and really nailing the essence of New Zealand by giving us our very own home-grown product. What I love most is that Joyce Blok products are affordable enough for people, and you always get the results that we are looking for.” - Lynette Chambers, owner of Monterrey Beauty Therapy Boutique in Nelson and stockist of Joyce Blok Professional Skin Care for the past 27 years. HEADWAY.NET.NZ 18
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i r t A p down
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From humble beginnings to award winning innovations, we look back at the journey.
2006
INTRODUCTION OF NATURAL FLOWER LOGO, NEW PACKAGING, PLUS THE LEADING SERUM CEF, SERUM C20 AND SERUM BHA3
2007/8
THE ALPHA-BETA RADIANCE RANGE WAS INTRODUCED
Late 1960’s
JOYCE AND NEIL BLOK MIGRATE TO NZ
Early 1970’s
2011
JOYCE & NEIL OPEN ONE OF NZ’S FIRST PROFESSIONAL CLINICS
1973
JOYCE OPENS PROFESSIONAL TRAINING SCHOOL
2010
JB MAN RANGE IS LAUNCHED
ANTI-AGEING RANGE RELEASED. THIS INNOVATIVE RANGE REMAINS A BEST-SELLER TODAY
2013
NEW BUTTERFLY LOGO, ONLINE STORE, CONTEMPORARY PACKAGING, PLUS THE RELEASE OF A HIGH-PERFORMANCE SUPER SERUM
1976 1986
JOYCE & NEIL BLOK RETIRE, WITH SELF CARE GROUP TAKING OVER THE BUSINESS
DEVELOPMENT OF JOYCE BLOK SKIN CARE PRODUCTS BEGINS
2014
THE LIMITED EDITION SUGAR SCRUB QUICKLY BECAME A SWEET FAVOURITE
1990 INTRODUCTION OF VITAMIN C CONCENTRATE AND LINDEN REFINING MASK
2016
Anne O’Brien, Owner of Joyce Blok Professional Skin Care - “I love the fact that we are the realisation of her dream. From our extraordinary products, people and beauty partnerships – it’s a real privilege to be part of this legacy. We have a happy and successful business because of her initial vision and passion – she was simply a legend.”
LAUNCH OF THE LIP POLISH AND PROFESSIONAL TREATMENT MASKS FOR MATURE SKIN AND REJUVENATION
2004
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PAIRING ONCE AGAIN WITH AUSTRALASIA’S FOREMOST COSMETIC CHEMIST, JOYCE BLOK RELEASED THEIR VITAMIN E15% SERUM
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JOYCE BLOK INSTITUTE MERGES INTO THE ELITE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF BEAUTY & SPA
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June Lamb, Co-owner of Joyce Blok Professional Skin Care - “I love the whole story of the brand and the way we have grown it. I love the serums – from the Super Serum to our latest Vitamin E serum. I think Joyce would be proud of us girls”
Today
JOYCE BLOK PROFESSIONAL SKIN CARE CONTINUES TO THRIVE IN NEW ZEALAND, AUSTRALIA AND WORDLWIDE, WITH NEW INNOVATIONS CONSTANTLY BEING LAUNCED.
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2015
THE SCHOOL MOVES TO NEW PREMISES, UNDER THE DEDICATED GUIDANCE OF NEW PRINCIPAL, JUDY WEST
2000
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WOULD YOU PUSH YOUR DAUGHTER OUT OF THE WAY OF A SPEEDING CAR?
OF COURSE YOU WOULD Saving the life of a loved one is something we’re genetically programmed to do. At the moment, breast cancer is an early death sentence for 1 in 9 Kiwi women. That could be your mother, wife or even your little girl, and you have the means to stop it. So why wouldn’t you? Breast Cancer Cure is New Zealand’s only not-for-profit organisation established solely to find a cure for breast cancer. We’re working with some of the best researchers and the best research programmes in the world. Now it’s your turn. We need you to reach deep into your pockets and help fund these initiatives. This is your chance to be an active part of a group that finally puts an end to the fear of breast cancer. You’ll be able to tell your children and grandchildren that you stood up, got involved, and helped create a future where breast cancer is a survivable disease. Choose to fight. Donate now at www.breastcancercure.org.nz or call 0800 227 828.
Headway | PROMOTION
Standing out from the crowd
Women are spoilt for choice when it comes to finding a beauty destination. From day spas to beauty bars, how can you stand out from the crowd? Trudi Brewer asks spa owner and life coach Lyndall Mitchell.
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nsuring every client has the very best experience and wants to return to your beauty destination is what makes your business unique. Here are some insights into staying relevant in this crowded spa market, from an award winner wellness centre and owner of Aurora Spa in Melbourne.
There are so many beauty destinations to choose from, how do you stay relevant in a crowded market? It's all about being authentic - to who you are and how you represent and stay relevant to your market. When you go to a spa, and there are people with authentic passion you can feel that and see the creative input that makes the destination stand out.
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Beauty | PROFILE
What are the finishing touches that make a spa special? I think it is first and foremost cleanliness. It may sound obvious, but it still surprises me how many spas I go to where the owner may not look in the same areas that the guests such as the face cradle on the spa bed, the floor and the ceiling. These are details that need to be continually reviewed and maintained. So cleanliness is number one. Next, it is all the little things that “add value” to the guest experience. The beautiful herbal tea selection, toiletries in the bathroom, good quality hairdryer, etc. These things help the guest to feel like they can completely switch off and their every need is considered.
What are the seasonal essentials that will help create that feeling of wellbeing for staff? Here are our top three tips to share with your staff and clients. 1 Eat your autumn colours. Autumn evokes warmth and rich earthy tones; think deep forest greens, golden yellows and brilliant burnt oranges. A key indicator of the nutritional value of fruit and vegetables are their colour and the more vibrant the colour, the better they are for your immune system. Think of the colour orange, bursting with vitamin C.
2 Boost your immune system With the changing season, now is the perfect time to review your diet and boost your immunity. Some instant immune boosters include: drinking plenty of fresh water, eating plenty of nutritious whole foods and adding garlic, lysine, probiotics, Vitamin B & C, zinc, propolis and Manuka honey to your daily intake.
3 Exfoliate and hydrate Summer sun worshipping and salt water can leave skin parched, so now is the time to buff and exfoliate.
Create your own ‘me moment’ at home by dedicating a night to replenish your skin with our famous ASPAR Wattleseed & Walnut Exfoliating Cream, or you could book in to experience the Kiyta Karnu ritual for the ultimate double exfoliation and hydration.
What are you top three best service tips? Kindness – be one step ahead of your
guest and ask yourself “how can I make this experience extraordinary”?
Mindfulness – be present, it is so easy to be distracted in the world we live in. Look your guest in the eye and show that you are here right now with them.
Organised
– a smooth guest experience comes with plenty of valuable organisation. Make the time to prioritise your tasks and be ready, clear and organised.
As a business owner, how can you get that well deserved time out? Prioritising a trip to an annual retreat is an investment in the most important asset- you. By taking time out and going on retreat once a year you put a large deposit in your “health” bank account as you top up the fuel in your tank. Having an ongoing maintenance program of wellness activities like a weekend getaway or spa treatment are like regular deposits into your “health” bank account and are a way to revive between yearly retreats. Going away on retreats annually is incredibly important because in the wellness industry we see people become run down, and all too often their health takes second priority. Taking time out of your schedule whether for a weekend or a week, is the perfect pledge to your health and wellness. Personally, I book in annually to Kamalaya Health Retreat in Koh Samui for a week to recharge and replenish, an investment in her “health” bank account. Book some time out in your diary and schedule your “retreat time”.
New this month PHOTOGRAPHY Shutterstock and supplied
Chaos to Calm, by authors Lyndall Mitchell and Shannah Kennedy Published by Penguin Random House.
Chaos to Calm is a handbook for any women with a busy life that is feeling tired and stressed. Written by Australia’s leaders in wellness education, Shannah Kennedy and Lyndall Mitchell. This is a simple step-by-step approach, on how to take back ownership of your life that making the day-to-day commitments less stressful and your day less frantic. This book is packed with advice and the tools to teach you how to switch off, and not sweat the small stuff. Designed to help you take control of your health, your finances, your ultimately your well-being and happiness. Chaos to Calm, $38 is available at all leading bookstores.
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FROM OUR SPA TO YOUR HOME DEVELOPED IN SPA, THE ASPAR RANGE OF BOTANICALLY ACTIVE PRODUCTS HAVE BEEN CREATED WITH CARE AND EXPERTISE BY THERAPISTS AT AWARD-WINNING AURORA SPAS AROUND AUSTRALIA. SINCE THEIR EARLY BEGINNINGS OF HAND MIXING PRODUCTS IN THEIR FLAGSHIP SPA , ASPAR ARE DEDICATED TO CREATING HIGH PERFORMANCE FORMULATIONS THAT ARE AS EFFECTIVE AS THEY ARE SUBLIME.
For details on becoming a stockist or for more information on the ASPAR range contact us on 0800 105 107 or email info@selfcare.co.nz
Headway | PROMOTION
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Rosy cheeks are usually a sign of a healthy glow; a much sought-after look that we often achieve with the help of our favourite blush. But on the flip side, for many, it’s a sign of irritation, flakiness and tenderness. So what exactly are we dealing with when it comes to sensitive skin? “True sensitive skins are that way genetically and represent a much smaller percentage of the population than those whose skin is sensitised due to environmental factors, skin care nasties, such as fragrance, and even systemic immune reactions,” explains Kelly Iles, owner of Mount Skin and Body in Mount Maunganui. According to Iles, sensitive skin can be characterised by being reactive, often red or inflamed, sensitive to heat and sometimes itchy and uncomfortable.
WHY IS IT ON THE RISE? What we do know for sure is that sensitive skin is on the rise. It is estimated that up to 50 percent of women perceive their skin to be sensitive. There are several reasons for this, including a rise in pollution levels. For example, 36 percent of the Chinese population has declared themselves as sensitive, which may in fact be attributed to the high level of pollution in this region. Lifestyle could well be another factor, with air-conditioned offices becoming more and more the norm, or at the other end of the scale, the harshness of the
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For anyone that suffers from sensitive skin, the struggles are very real. Sharleen Singh explores what happens when your skin starts seeing red.
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BEST SEN
Beauty | FEATURE
sun, especially in New Zealand.
HOW TO TREAT IT? According to Iles, both sensitive and sensitised skins are treated similarly. The best way is through education and working with the skin gently and holistically. “We love to educate our clients about the benefits of eating foods high in Omega-3 fatty acids, especially important for those with dry or sensitive/sensitised skin. Drinking a lot of water to flush toxins and avoiding alcohol and spicy food is also really beneficial for those who deal with redness, flushing and inflammation on their skin” explains Iles.
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WHAT SKINCARE DO YOU RECOMMEND? Don't overdo it. From using a scrub every day to over-stripping the skin with a harsh toner, skincare should be used in moderation. “Topically, we would use the Decléor Harmonie Calm range which hydrates parched skin, calms reactive or inflamed skin, strengthens delicate skin and protects from future damage. My personal favourite is the Rose D’orient Night Balm; Decléor balms are my go-to when treating any skin type or condition. They work, are luxurious and yet effective in getting results,” says Iles. As always, it’s best to see your therapist for tailored treatments and products.
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SENSITIVE SKIN VS ROSACEA There are some exceptions, so it’s important to note the difference between sensitive skin and another common skin condition; rosacea. Rosacea (as lovely as words that start with rose are) unfortunately has more to do with the colour of a rose than the symbolism of one. Symptoms usually include: • Flushing and blushing • Persistent redness/broken capillaries
• Acne-like rash of bumps and pimples • Localised facial swelling • Skin sensitivity As you’ve probably judged from the list above, the main difference is the fact that rosacea is characterised by blood vessels that swell and produce redness at the slightest agitation, including cold, heat, wind or stress, and usually develops after the age of 30.
1. Fleur de Mer Rosacea Skin Serum. 2. Algologie Sensi Plus Comfort Mask. 3. Dermalogica Ultra Sensitive Tint SPF30. 4. Decléor Aromessence Rose D’Orient Night Balm. 5. Joyce Blok Essential Neroli Sensitive Skin Moisturiser. 6. Environ Intensive Antioxidant Gel. HEADWAY.NET.NZ 26
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Beauty | SPA
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The endota spa story began in 2000 when Melanie Gleeson CEO and founder and a school friend were brave enough to take a risk and follow a dream. Here is her story.
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endota spa’s style most definitely lives up to the true indigenous meaning of their name “beautiful”
says Jenelle Sheppard – endota spa fit out manager. Finally to relive and extend their client’s spa experience, endota Spa has introduced three product ranges of their own, for naturally effective skincare and advanced anti-ageing solutions to take home. Taking inspiration from the original location, endota spa has created a space where the natural oceanic inspiration is well executed through their choice of colour and textures. No matter where an endota spa is located throughout Australia, the design has given their clients a real feeling that they have truly escaped to the seaside.
PHOTOGRAPHY Instagram and supplied
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pening its first-day spa in Victoria’s Mornington Peninsula, their beach side location was an enormous part of their inspiration for the interior design. All individually owned, endota spa’s style most definitely lives up to the true indigenous meaning of their name “beautiful”, with the natural oceanic beauty inspired spas becoming a place where women gather to be nourished, emotionally and physically since 2000. Upon arrival at any endota spa, guests unwind and feel closer to nature, with a light-filled, airy beach-inspired space. Interiors predominantly display light wood textures and soft colours, combining this in all reception areas and lounges throughout each location. Each treatment room is designed to be clean, light filled with the aim- for clients to feel replenished – mind, body and soul. Featured in the treatment rooms are Comfortel’s electric beauty beds, beautifully dressed in endota spa touch points including white and olive green towels. “The Comfortel range is an integral part of our client experience. Premium comfort, practicality and simple design makes Comfortel an ideal choice for our day spa fit outs,”
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Headway | PROMOTION
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Beauty | SPA
The Tropical Flower Spa at the 5-star Maritim Resort offers a luxurious take on island beauty Take a deep breath, relax and indulge in tropical extravagance as Sharleen Singh takes you to enchanting Mauritius.
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ocated along the protected marine park of Turtle Bay in Mauritius, the award-winning Maritim Tropical Flower Spa at the 5-star Maritim Resort & Spa is a tranquil oasis dedicated to wellbeing set in lush tropical gardens, located in the Indian Ocean. Covering an estate of 25 hectares and offering an exclusive array of experiences, this resort features 215 luxurious ocean-facing rooms, suites and villas. HEADWAY.NET.NZ 32
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Headway | PROMOTION
AWARD-WINNING The Maritim Tropical Flower Spa has been recognised worldwide for its ongoing excellence, first awarded for its stunning architecture with a ‘’Focus Award’’, and then going on to win “Best Luxury Wellness Spa of Mauritius” at the World Luxury Spa Awards 2016.
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Beauty | SPA
EVERYTHING YOU NEED This breathtaking spa is composed of 13 treatment rooms, as well as a wellness pavilion, hairdressing, bridal suites and exquisite relaxation areas behind a romantic waterfall. Also featured is a space dedicated to water treatments including a relaxation pool, wet niches, saunas, steam room, showers and a Kneipp Walk.
TROPICAL ELIXIRS Understanding the demand for world-class products and treatments, the Maritim Tropical Flower Spa utilises leading French spa brand DeclĂŠor in addition to its own range of essential oils and elixirs of tropical flowers, plants and natural oils, that grow within their own gardens.
PHOTOGRAPHY supplied.
ISLAND EXPERIENCE Guests are transported into a realm of relaxation and tropical beauty that offers exclusive treatments such as Ayurveda, hot stone therapy and Balinese massages, as well as exclusive Mauritian treatments. After an individual consultation, therapists specially create a personalised blend of selected tropical flowers, plants and natural oils, while guests enjoy a signature drink especially designed to unwind. As well as a full range of massages, the spa offers a unique range of dry massage such as the Bamboo Massage, where bamboo sticks are used to stimulate pressure points of the body, providing a feeling of pure wellbeing. Each exceptional experience at the Maritim Tropical Flower Spa truly is a unique journey.
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Headway | PROMOTION
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Headway | PROMOTION
Fuse, blend, inhale. Introducing a completely new approach to massage and body sculpting; Aroma Blend. This highly effective treatment is completely tailor-made to refining and firming needs. With a focus on a blended fusion of essential and plant oils, your body will feel recharged and your emotions balanced. Discover the stimulating new bespoke body shaping ritual for lasting skin transformation, as part of the luxurious Decléor range.
For details on your nearest stockist or for more information on DECLÉOR
0800 105 107 • info@decleor.co.nz www.decleor.co.nz Facebook.com/DecleorNZ
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10/03/17 1:25 PM
Beauty | BUSINESS
Anne O’Brien ponders what we will be advising our aging population (and ourselves) to maintain a healthy, glowing skin over the coming years. The philosophy of ‘everything old is new again’ is the wellness concept for the next generation…
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PHOTOGRAPHY Shutterstock and supplied
urning forty in 1977 would have been remarkably different than turning forty in 2017. I have a fascination and rather romantic view of the ‘70s which most of my peers are somewhat bemused by. I honestly believe a 40th birthday bash in 1977 would have been fabulous. Being a fullyfledged ‘80s girl in theory I should be longing for huge hair and lip gloss that constantly slides across my face. Does anyone else remember the roller ball strawberry lip gloss of the ‘80s? Thicker than a glue stick with the ability to adhere to absolutely everything except your lips. Those were the days – or were they? In comparison the ‘70s introduced a flower power ethos in huge contrast to the techno age around the corner. As we look to the future, the ‘70s ‘farm fresh beauty’ is the foundation of forecasted growth. Ignorance was bliss in 1977 as the long term perils of sun damage, smoking, staying out late and generally misbehaving were completely unknown. Now not only beauty professionals but anyone old enough to speak can tell you the dangers of all of the above – which is a good thing of course. How more educated will we be in another 40 years and will the 70’s be viewed as the peak of our carefree days? We now have a passion for ingesting coconut oil rather than applying it liberally to make us tan quickly. Perhaps we will be eating SPF in less than 40 years rather than slip, slop, slap. A thought that crossed my mind is what would
I tell my 40 year old self not to do when I time travel like MJF did in ‘Back to the Future’? Well some good habits will never go out of date and my tips will be simple. Any beauty professional could easily list 100 but the fundamentals can be edited down to a very accessible seven: And what exactly would I expect to be embracing for my skin at 80? All research points to premium brands continuing to grow the skin care modalities and subsequent sales with a strong focus on natural based products. The asianification (yes this is a term) of our industry means that India, Indonesia and China are predicted as being the leaders in premium natural skin care. Indonesia is forecasted to outspend the US in skin care purchases by 2019. Animal testing regulations will have a huge impact on the next generation of skin care users and formulators. New technology with advanced tools, devices and apps will mean accurate skin diagnosis will literally be in the palm of everyone’s hands. Here’s a quick summary for what is just around the corner:
“Perhaps we will be eating SPF in less than 40 years rather than slip, slop, slap.”
Great skin secrets of yesterday and today • Drink plenty of water • Sleep more • Laugh as often as you can and to hell with the lines • Exfoliate regularly but don’t be too tough on your skin (or yourself) • Use night cream every night • SPF always • Look after your teeth as well as your skin
Back to the future trends • Water will be a key ingredient moving forward as it becomes more scarce globally • Organic and probiotic based skin care will continue to grow and may dominate sooner than we think • ‘Drinking dirt’ or ingesting bacteria to get your skin in check is forecasted as phase two in probiotic skin care trends • Soap cleansers – yes that’s right soap cleansers – and facial creams will be back following the ‘Everything old will be new’ concept • 3D printing will have revolutionised manufacturing and bespoke skin care will be mainstream • Devices will ensure skin care diagnosis is literally in the hands of the consumers • Animal testing regulations will see a huge change in how we develop products Whatever is ‘in’ or ‘out’ over the next 40 years you can be certain of one thing – I have every intention of enjoying being part of it. Happy 40th Headway – be a bit naughty for your birthday…
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Headway | PROMOTION
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YOUNGER-LOOKING IS AS EASY AS 1, 2, 3 Since 2004, HydroPeptide has revolutionized skincare through the power of peptides. By combining peptides, antioxidant-rich botanical stem cells, growth factors and hyaluronic acid into our award-winning formulas we are able to achieve superior anti-aging results. Each product works on a cellular level to increase hydration, visibly reduce lines and wrinkles, and enhance skin’s natural luminosity. HydroPeptide offers immediate post-facial results and home care regimens that are as effective as they are luxurious.
For details on becoming a HydroPeptide® stockist or to find a HydroPeptide® salon near you, contact us on: T: 0800 105 107 • E: info@selfcaregroup.co.nz • facebook.com/hydropeptideNZ
Headway | PROMOTION Business
WHAT LIES BENEATH THE JOURNEY OF SKIN FLUORESCENCE By MARGARET WALSH
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oday, clients seeking professional skincare are more knowledgeable and have higher expectations of skin treatments and care products than ever before. Clients demand results-based treatments and skincare regimes and expect results to be documented and communicated. Since the invention of the original Wood’s Lamp by Robert William Wood in 1903, skin diagnosis based upon the fluorescence behaviour of skin tissue has been well accepted in dermatology and cosmetic skin care for almost 105 years, but has hardly changed. The slightly surreal glowing appearance of foliage in his photographs has been labelled the “Wood Effect”. Recently, new technology has been developed which brings this “Wood Effect” and Woods Lamp up to date and can be used in conjunction with today’s mobile computer technology, such as Smartphones and tablets. The latest technology today has five light modes available for skin diagnosis in the modern world of skin fluorescence. 1. Daylight 2. True UV 3. Woods 4. Cross–Polarized 5. Parallel-Polarized (unique to the Observ® Skin Diagnostic Device) Skin diagnostic devices are of huge importance in 2017 for skin care professionals who are serious about providing corrective skin care practices in their salons, spas and clinics. One cannot measure progress without knowing what the starting point is. As practicing beauty therapists we know comprehensive Advanced Skin Analysis, including the use of diagnostic equipment, is a professional must. Clients are expecting education and evidencebased results.The use of diagnostic equipment sets a professional standard; clients clearly understand that results are the aim, and that they are expected to fulfill their part of the treatment plan. While diagnostic equipment has become much more affordable and available to the beauty therapy/spa industry, I understand
that for some it must still be budgeted for. No documentation is however, not acceptable, because in the modern world, everyone has the capability to take baseline /clinical photos in your pocket! A Smartphone is the minimum requirement and if nothing else, you should at least be documenting with that. A simple ruler is a fantastic tool to measure anomalies such as solar lentigenes, and you can also document what you see on a simple piece of paper; I still encourage the last point even with advanced technology available. Most importantly, learn what this means for your business in the future. Now let us consider the value of skin analysis and technological advancements from a client/patients’ point of view Client question: What are the long-term benefits of using such technology? Answer: Advanced Skin Analysis allows us, dermal and beauty therapists, to evaluate skin from the epidermal/dermal junction upwards and to provide proof, via clinical photos, of the potential concerns before they become visible on the skin’s surface. In the long term, this means that clients can choose to use products or undergo treatments in-clinic that prevent these concerns becoming reality. This will assist clients in maintaining and improving the condition of their skin for years to come. Why allow your clients to waste time and money on products and treatments that will not fix their skin? Do offer every client a skin analysis and combine it with a skin analysis device. The clinical visuals allow you to see; not just what is on the visible surface of their skin, but what lies beneath. Using UV and cross-polarized light, latest technology can reveal the colour, tone, texture, secretions and sun damage on your client/patients’ skin. We all are aware of the essential benefits of a thorough one hour skin consultation. Let us refresh our memories as to the
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professional value of an advanced skin analysis. Imagine the information you will have at your fingertips, if you combine the consultation with the data gleaned from the latest OBSERV Technology. Advanced Skin Analysis will determine the client/patient’s: • Genetic diagnosis • Client’s work/play lifestyle • Where they spent the first 20 years of their life • General health and wellbeing • Medical conditions/medicines • Possible allergies • Vitamin supplements • Nutritional choices • Current retail home care and beauty therapy treatments • Home care and beauty therapy treatment history • The “where to now?” plan for your client • Their relationship with the sun – are they a “sun bunny?” • Attitude to becoming a compliant client with the homecare and suggested lifestyle needs. During a Skin Analysis Appointment the beauty therapist: - Will gather data and photograph most useful aspects of the epidermis: melanin, extra vascular matting, oxidative stress, skin texture and sebum (lipid) levels. - Will gather data on the client’s genetic history, nutrition and lifestyle, medical, and previous beauty therapy treatment history. - Will photo-document the client’s current skin situation using fluorescence and polarized diagnostic imaging equipment - including a UV photo documentation of sub-surface skin conditions. This data will allow the therapist to measure accurately the clients’ progression and results throughout the ensuing in-salon programmes. - Will establish the cause of the client’s skin concern in their consultation, and then relate the cause to the cells and systems that have been affected. - Will establish the basic majority skin type and present the client with the home care protocols necessary to maintain healthy skin. - Will establish the client’s sun sensitivity. This will allow understanding of the skin’s susceptibility to pigmentation, and develop guidelines for protecting the skin. - Will prescribe a 6-12 month treatment program to improve all clients skin. By combining with OBSERV data and
your consultation skills you will develop a customized skin health program based on this information. It will include a home skin care regimen, salon treatments with nutritional and lifestyle choices best suited to the skin’s particular needs. Add in a 3 month follow-up skin analysis using the same methodology and you will be professionally “beaming” as you evaluate the effectiveness of the skin care protocol you recommended to the client. Results driven regimes ensure a win-win outcome for both parties. Wanting a skin diagnostic device that marries with a bespoke skin analysis? Email us now for more details at; enquires @observ.co.nz www.observ.co.nz
At OBSERV we were so excited to announce that DERMASCOPE USA Industry readers chose the official winner – OBSERV! To be “Winner of the “Best of the Best “Diagnostic Tool in 2016!” And if your equipment is “The Best of the Best” your clients will happily provide a testimonial to the fact. Enjoy this testimonial from Robyn McAlpine of www.lasereffect.com.au “I have been using the OBSERV 520 in my skin therapy clinic for coming up to two years and can no longer remember what our skin consultations were like prior to this. It has become an invaluable tool in educating our clients about their skin. Not only does it give us as therapists an insight into underlying skin conditions and allow us to read deeper into our client’s skin, but it also provides a visual for our clients helping them to see what we see. A client who is armed with the knowledge of where their skin is heading is a client who can make an informed decision about their skin journey. My team are exceptional skin therapists, and the OBSERV 520 gives them an ever greater understanding of our client’s needs. Detailed and well recorded before and after images help to keep us accountable and make sure that we are constantly delivering a high level of skin care. Progress cannot be denied when you have such consistent images from treatment to treatment.”
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Join the hair, beauty & fashion generation ... and sign up to Headway’s new regular newsletter. It’s free to join and essential reading for all you hair & beauty industry lovers. The sheer amount of new products and gadgets launched every year is astounding. Looking for someone to edit the best from the rest? We’re dedicated to bringing you the finest tried, tested and adored hair & beauty newbies, oldies and goodies. If you’re passionate about hair, beauty and fashion, you need to sign up to Headway’s new free newsletter that fast-tracks all the latest skin care launches, hair happenings and industry events straight to your inbox.
Email us at info@headway.net.nz to keep in the loop, in the meantime keep in touch on our social media pages. Headway Magazine @headwaymagazine
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10/03/17 1:13 PM
Business | NUTRITION
Clean eating Forget trends and fad diets, clean eating is a lifestyle choice and one that will benefit your health. Liz Lamb investigates?
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utumn is always a reset month. After the summer festivities have ended, and before we settle into winter hibernation, the next few months are a good time to establish a routine and focus on replenishing our bodies from the inside out. Forget about the ‘super foods’ fad of the summer or the idea of getting on the bandwagon of juice cleansing; clean eating is a lifestyle choice and it’s here to stay.
PHOTOGRAPHY Shutterstock and supplied
WHAT IS CLEAN EATING? It’s less about the particular food or habit, and more about an approach to healthy eating, which is where its value lies. Once you strip back your food and let it speak for itself, it will change the way you prepare food and enjoy it. Don’t cover your food with artificial dressings or flavouring; use a simple herb rub to marinate your meat, or create a dressing for your salad with pure olive oil, balsamic and a squeeze of lemon. Try steaming or blanching your vegetables, which locks in the nutrients and is quick and easy. Most of all, let the ingredients create the flavour and sit back and enjoy the meal that you have prepared. Too often (myself included) we focus on something else (i.e. social media) when we sit down to eat a meal, and before we know it, the meal is gone!
HOW DOES IT BENEFIT THE BODY? Clean eating allows your body to absorb the nutrients from your meal just the way nature intended it. One of my favourite autumn recipes is a roast vegetable salad, and now is the perfect time, as seasonal root vegetables
are starting to come into stores. Beetroot and pumpkin are a brilliant combination, tossed with a little olive oil and roasted until tender in an oven. Mix in some roasted sunflower or pumpkin seeds paired with balsamic mustard vinaigrette. It’s a perfect side to any meal, or a take to work for lunch. HEADWAY.NET.NZ 44
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