The Top Skincare Ingredients We Need

From peptides and bakuchiol to niacinamides, the world of skincare ingredients is fast evolving, with new ingredients being incorporated into skincare products. Dr. Hasan AlOgaily, Consultant Family Medicine explains which ingredients we should be incorporating into our skincare regime and how they help with skin concerns.

Dr. Hasan AlOgaily

BY SKIN CONDITION The number of skincare products available to us on market shelves has certainly increased significantly, making choice and selection an overwhelming prospect for many of us. “The most frequently sought-after products are those that enhance the appearance of the skin, treat acne, anti-aging and treatments for sensitive skin, so the key things to incorporate depend on the condition being treated as well as your skin type,” says Dr. AlOgaily.

FOR ACNE For acne treatment, products that contain azelaic or salicylic acid are helpful for individuals with oily and acne-prone skin as these have exfoliating properties that also help fight against bacteria, he says. “For anti-aging treatments, the key ingredients are those that help enhance cellular turnover and collagen production, so this includes ingredients like retinol, peptides and glycolic acids.” Of course, it has been long known that both vitamins C and E are also essential due to their antioxidant properties. For people with sensitive and dry skin, or prone to eczema, he explains that humectant ingredients such as hyaluronic acid are beneficial by increasing skin moisture and is suitable for all skin types. PEPTIDES Peptides are made of amino acids, which are the building blocks for proteins, that are either synthetic such as palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 or naturally occurring. Our skin requires collagen to maintain its structure and integrity. Due to factors such as age and exposure to the environment, the collagen in our skin which is important for the firmness and elasticity of our skin can deteriorate over time leading to fine lines and wrinkles. So, peptides can stimulate the skin to make more collagen which helps to increase skin firmness and smooth out these lines. Other examples of useful peptides include palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 and palmitoyl oligopeptide.

RETINOL Retinol is a fat-soluble derivative of vitamin A found in many products used to improve skin texture, skin pigmentation, unclogging pores and smoothing out wrinkles. According to Dr. AlOgaily, retinol is proclaimed to be the gold-standard of skincare and anti-aging treatments, and to be distinguished from the much more potent ‘retinoids’ used since the 1970s as specialist prescription treatment for acne. “Again, collagen production is the key method where retinols work by increasing its production which increases skin elasticity, minimizes the appearance of wrinkles as well as controls skin cell proliferation by increasing cell turnover which results in decreased hyperpigmentation and skin roughness,” he says, adding, “While retinols can be quite effective, the benefits are only usually observed after three to six months of use.” It is important to note that retinols can potentially be irritating to the skin, causing redness, dryness or peeling with initial use and can also make the skin more sensitive to sunlight. So, if you have red or inflamed skin, he advises that it is best to avoid retinol-based products and during use, avoid any chemical exfoliants or acids. “Due to sun sensitivity, it is best to be applied at night, and use sun protection during the day including sunscreen,” he says, and if you are considering using a retinol for skin care, it is best to speak to a dermatologist for advice.

NIACINAMIDE Niacinamide is a water-soluble form of vitamin B3 used in the treatment of dry and sensitive skin. It is a precursor for multiple chemical reactions in our skin that results in its antioxidant or anti-aging effect including reduced yellowing of the skin, he says. “Niacinamide helps to increase ceramides and other lipids in our skin that are known to play a key role in maintaining its structure and integrity which therefore, improves skin barrier function leading to greater water retention capacity, reducing redness or blotchiness as well as fine lines or wrinkles.”

BAKUCHIOL Bakuchiol is an extract from an ancient botanical seed that is grown in India and has recently gained popularity as a gentler alternative to retinoids. “It has been shown to have similar effects to retinoids, by increasing collagen production, with fewer skin side effects, however this was based on limited evidence based on a small study size,” says Dr. AlOgaily. He adds, “It exerts its effects through anti-inflammatory and anti-microbial properties which also helps to reduce the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines. So, this makes it a particularly useful product for people who cannot tolerate retinol.” H