YU CHEN LEI TONG YAO ZHANG BENEDETTA BIAGINI MEI KE CHEN
2
-
4-
--
--
-
--
--
5
3 --
INTRODUCTION
38
-
--
--
-
--
--
87
--
ANALYSIS
90
-
--
--
-
--
--
7
10
--
BIG IDEA
3
-
110
-
--
--
--
--
--
9
7 -11
ANALYSIS BASED ON THE BIG IDEA
0
12
--
--
--
-
--
--
14 --
ACTION PLAN AND BUDGET
15
-
--
2-
--
--
--
REFERENCE
7
15
--
4
5
H I S T O R Y
Marni as brand was founded by Consuelo Castiglioni in 1994, starting from launching the label with an experimental collection , in 1999, after the launch of the spring/summer line, Marni was established as an independent brand. Until that time she worked as consultant in the furriery firm of her husband (Ciwi Furs) based in Milan. The style of Marni stands out for the old-fashioned/vintage design of his prints, flowers or abstract and geometric graphics from the 50’s and the 60’s with the deconstructed volumes. In 2007 Marni launched the menswear line, stood out for her austerity, geometry and oversized silhouettes , with floral and tribal prints. In autumn 2012 Marni entered in the world of fragrances by launching the first perfume of the brand in collaboration with Estée Lauder Companies. In spring 2012 was launched the H&M collection signed by Marni. Also in 2012 the majority of Marni was acquired by Renzo Rosso, President of OTB Group, the holding group of Maison Margiela, Viktor & Rolf, Dieseland Staff International. Today, the company produces ready-to-wear clothing, handbags, jewelry, and eyewear. Actually (from 2017) the label’s designer is Francesco Risso.
6
7
T I M E L I N E
2000: first Marni flagship store in London, sloane street, setting-up of Marni Japan 2001: first Marni flagship store in Milan, Via S. Andrea 2002: Marni Flagship stores in New York (Soho), Paris (Avenue Montaigne) and Tokyo (Aoyama)
2010:Collaboration with Claude Caillol for the "Winter Edition" Collection and installation by the artist into the Marni Show-room in Milan Collaboration with Gary Hume for the Fall/Winter 2010 Collection. 2011: First Marni Edition Pop-Up Store in Hong Kong in cooperation with the artists Pastis
2003: Launch of jewellery collection 2005: Collaboration with Shona Heath for the Spring/ Summer Men’s collection 2006: Launch of Marni Virtual Store (www.Marni.com), First step to China, Launch of sneakers collection 2007: first accessory store in Milan 2008: Exhibition “La Bolla Vanitosa” at Salone del Mobile 2009: The project “Tribute to Fashion”, launched by Coca Cola 2010: Exhibition “The wooden Beacons” at Salone del Mobile 2001: “Marni loves Japan”, Marni welcomes the Cherry Blossom period in Japan with MARNI PINK POP MARKET, a big in store installation that involves the prestigious Stage Shinjuku Isetan Department store in Tokyo. 2007:Collaboration with Richard Prince for the Spring/ Summer collection 2009 :Collaboration with Peter Blake for the Spring/ Summer
2012: Collaboration with H&M Store landed at the ocean centre mall in tsim sha tsui, 65 sqm, retail space has been designed by italian modern artists using readily available industrial materials. Clothing racks were made from tubular pipes, accessories displays are made in painted and micro-perforated natural sheet metal. Exhibition “100 sedie” at Salone del Mobile 2014: presentation of the limited edition book “Marni uomo” in occasion of the fall- winter collection 2016: “Marni Ballhaus” Marni turns the his space in Viale Umbria 42 into a ballroom in occasion of “Salone Del Mobile” Opening of “Marni flower café” at Umeda Hankyu Department Store in Osaka 2017: Marni Playland, sandy playground for Milan design week that's filled with brightly coloured furniture and toys made using traditional weaving.6 to 9 April at the brand's showroom, located at Viale Umbria 42, during Milan design week.
8
2008: Exhibition “La Bolla Vanitosa� at Salone del Mobile
2003: Launch of jewellery collection
9
2000: first Marni flagship store in London
10
2010: Exhibition “The wooden Beacons” at Salone del Mobile
2015: Exhibition at Biennale di Venezia “Becoming Marni”
2016:“Marni flower café” at Umeda Hankyu Department Store in Osaka
2017: Marni Playland
11
12
13
P E R S O N A L I T Y
Colorful, geometric and modern design, but still influenced by vintage floral of graphic prints. Eclectic. Oversized and deconstructed silhouettes Cross-contamination with different world, especially with art and design.
14
V I D E O S
Video Advertising for the H&M’s collection, directed by Sofia Coppola
2010 Fall-Winter Adv Campaing
2017 F/W Adv Campaingn: Marni Advertising Campaign Fall/Winter 2017, a film by Michael Hauptman
15
Marni Fragrance Commercial
2017 S/S Adv Campaign: Marni Spring/Summer 2017 Advertising Campaign by Barbara Probst, directed by Bruno Ilogti
2018 S/S Adv Campaign
16
I C O NI C
M O O D S
Spring 2000 Ready To Wear by Consuelo Castiglioni: Abstract motifs, feminine silhouettes, pastel colours, flat shoes and flowing skirts
17
S/S 2018 by Francesco Risso: “Skateboarders with style�, Large proportions, strong colours, duchesse silhouettes, corsets, oversized skirts, floral prints
18
Coca-Cola tribute to fashion 2009: To distinguish their bottle from the others Marni choose to represent his style using the iconic graphic dots design .
19
Marni Resort 2015: inspired by ‘50s and ‘60s, oversized shapes and silhouettes, flower prints
20
21
Marni x H&M: Characterised by the iconic graphic prints (dots for example) of Marni, flowers and lines. Also in this collection we can find jewels and accessories totally in line with the policy of the brand: bold necklaces, sparking and colourful bracelets and earrings, made in plastic and strass.
Marni Playland, Milan 2017: Marni tents always to combine design, art and fashion, that’s why every year the brand stands out at Milano Salone Del Mobile with its exhibitions, characterised by eclecticism and surrealism.
22
T O U C H
P O I N T S
POS
ONE TO ONE
BRANDING TOUCH POINTS
MASS MEDIA
INDIRECT
23
24
1. ONE TO ONE Direct mailing: newsletter Loyalty Programs Personal invitation events
Online shop(own online shop and25 online retailer) Marni.com Farfetch
Presentation of Marni’s Men’s Collection for Fall-Winter 2015 at the company’s showroom in Milan
SMS service Use past experiences with the customers to offer luxury customers what they actually want. For these audience, over-deliver on customer service. Exclusivity is important as it makes customers feel like VIPs, so it is necessary to reward the brand’s best customers with something special.
SSENSE NET-A-PORTER MATCHESFASHION mytheresa. com Luisaviaroma MODA OPERANDI NEED SUPPLY yoox.com theoutnet.com Purchase experiences(Unexpected touchpoints)
Brand magazine: Marni-anticamera
ANTICAMERA is MARNI’s online magazine, which is directed by Carolina Castiglioni and created together with Marni_Lab, features the collaboration of emerging or established artists.
26 The PR department will set different timeline to send newsletter about new arrival items, sales news to Marni members.
Loyalty Programs Loyalty programs are separated by brand attitude and brand behaviour. Brand attitude is leading consumers to intended repurchasing, and the brand behaviour will focus on private member event, customer service, personal shopper.
27
28 2. POS Special offers shelves Most of luxury brands have the special offers shelves hide behind the product sheet. Sales assistant will show you the special products if you have individual demand or you are the VIP of the brand.
Online shop(own online shop and online retailer) Marni.com Farfetch SSENSE NET-A-PORTER MATCHESFASHION mytheresa.com Luisaviaroma MODA OPERANDI NEED SUPPLY yoox.com theoutnet. com Product sheet Advertisements entrance Employee cash desk Customer service
Privacy Policy - YOOX NET-A-PORTER GROUP S.p.A./Corporation with registered offices in Italy via Morimondo, 17 – Milano 20143, for administrative and accounting purposes, contact: Customer Care. - MARNI GROUP S.r.l., with registered offices in Italy, Milano, Italy, Via Sismondi 70/B, 20133, telephone +390271055300, for marketing and profiling purposes, contact: privacy@marni.com . Marni Customer Care area: This section provides answers to the most frequently asked questions on terms of sale and our services. Door man Product display Packaging Physical store (flagship store) Sales person Show room
Product disp
Viale Umbria, 42 20135 Milano MI
Show room
29
play
m:Viale Umbria, 42 20135 Milano MI
Marni sells clothes in sixteen countries; boutiques locations include London, New York City, Los Angeles, Las Vegas, Beijing, Shanghai, Sydney, Moscow, Kuwait, Hong Kong, Seoul and Tokyo. Retail expansion for Marni with a new store in Florence, the third in Italy after Milan and Rome, and other international openings in 2018.
Packaging
30
Catalogue Luxury brand provide some loyalty customers private catalogue before new collection arrival.
3.MASS MEDIA Online advertisement Online advertisement include: Investment for post sponsorization on social media channels. Any banner on online platforms or advertisement words. ex. online magazines, Yahoo, Google, Baidu, Facebook, Instagram delivering content with an audience SEO and SEM.
Journal advertisement a newspaper or magazine advertisement giving information about a product in the style of an editorial or objective journalistic article.
31
Campaign
Collaboration(special editions) Marni celebrates Vogue’s 125th anniversary with a limited-edition of bags and t-shirts in collaboration with international artists: Francesco Clemente, Annie Kevans, Shara Hughes, Beatriz Milhazes, Genieve Figgis, John Baldessari, Ragnar Kjartansson, Maurizio Cattelan and Pierpaolo Ferrari, Kerry James Marshall, Dana Schutz and Julie Mehretu
Pop up store Marni Flower Cafe The Marni Flower Café represents the first step of an ambitious project for future opening of other cafés in Japan and in other countries.
32
Charity Marni market Marni Market is a temporary pop up store that carries with the it the powerful powerful imaginative imaginative world of Marni, offering to its guests the chance of purchasing exclusive products and immersing themselves in a lively ambiance with bright colors and scenic prints.
Exhibition MARNI Exhibition PLAYLAND. MARNI PLAYLAND. On the occasion of Milan 2017 Salone del the will occasion of Milan 2017 Mobile, On Marni be transforming itsSalone space del transforming at Viale Mobile, UmbriaMarni 42 intowill onebebig playground.its space at Viale Umbria 42 into one big playground.
33
Marni Edition MarniBoutique Edition Boutique Marni presents the limited Marni presents theedition limitedbook edition book “Marni “Marni Uomo” for its Fall-Winter 2013-2014 Uomo” for its Fall-Winter 2013-2014 Collection Collectionduring duringNew NewYork’s York’sIFCC IFCCatatthe theMarni Edition Marni Edition boutique the Meatpacking boutique in theinMeatpacking District. District. For the launch, Marni created a series of For the launch, created a series from of the T-shirtsMarni inspired by graphics T-shirts inspired bywere graphics the book; they soldfrom exclusively at Edition book; they were sold exclusively at Edition boutiques and on marni.com. boutiques and on marni.com.
Social media facebook, twitter, youtube, Instagram, Wechat, Weibo
Performance Looking for Marni For the launch of the optic collection developed with Marchon, Marni creates an atmospheric tale of gestural and architectural lightness Performance which gives tangibility to the Looking for emotional Marni creative characterize the For the atmosphere launch of thewhich optic collection Marni world.with Entitled LOOKING MARNI. developed Marchon, MarniFOR creates an atmospheric tale of gestural and architectural lightness which gives emotional tangibility to the creative atmosphere which characterize the Marni world. Entitled LOOKING FOR MARNI.
34
TV reports Search engine This is a list of search engines, including web search engines, selectionbased search engines, meta search engines, desktop search tools, and web portals and vertical market websites that have a search facility for online databases. List of search engines: Google, Yahoo, Bing, Baidu, Facebook, Twitter, Youtube, Instagram, Weibo, LinkedIn Word of mouth Storytelling is a common form of word-of-mouth communication where one person tells others a story about a real event or something made up.
35
Article print media Product quality Product price Product style (Intrinsic touchpoints)
36
37
38 MARNI PANNIERT
MARNI MARKET
CRISS-CROSS WEDGE IN NAPPA
MARNI TRUNKT
PRODUCT
90% Polyester, 10% Bovine
P 95% Bovine , 5% Metal
70% Bovine , 15% Resin, 15% Metal (Brass)
H O T O
C O M P O S IT
IO
35 36 37 38
N
100% Lambskin, Rubber
S IZ
one size
€ 1.530,00
€ 1.560,00
€ 60,00 € 90,00
€ 650,00
Italy
Italy
E
one size
small medium large
P R IC E O R IG
Italy
Italy
IN
100% Viscose
36 36 37 38 39
one size
one size
32 34 36 38
€ 490,00
€ 250,00
€ 340,00
€ 980
Italy
Italy
Italy
Italy
NECKLACE IN METAL AND DESIGNT
60% Resin, 40% Metal (Brass)
ASYMMETRICAL DRESS IN WASHED CREPE
Metal (Brass)
NECKLACE IN METAL AND DESIGNT
RESIN EARRING WITH STRASS PENDANTS
FUSSBETT IN LAMINATED CALFSKIN WITH CONTRASTING INSET 100% Calf
40% Resin, 40% Glass, 20%
39
38% Acetate, 31% Viscose, 17% Silk, 12% Cotton, 2% Polyamide
32 34
€ 1,790
Italy
40 MARNI BOUTIQUE
MARNI BOUTIQUE
First NY boutique
First Milan boutique
First Marni Flower Café in Umed
2000
2002
2015
2016
London
NY
Milan
Japan
MARIN FLOWER CAFÉ
MARNI BOUTIQUE
NAME
First London boutique
P H O T O
D E S C R IP T
IO N T IM E P L A C E
41 MARNI MARKET A temporary pop up store that carries with it the powerful imaginative world of Marni. 2018
Japan
42
ICONIC PEOPLE / BRAND AMBASSADORS According to our research Marni lacks the specific brand ambassadors.
WHO ARE MARNI’S ICONIC PEOPLE? The target audiences have personal unique conceptions in fashion industry. They have individual and innovation styling mindsets. They love niche brands rather than mass luxury brand (ex: LOUIS VUITTON, Gucci...etc.) They enjoy mixing and matching with high end brands and mass market brands. They could be a artist, specialist, sales associate or stylist, but what they have a lot in common is critical thinking.
43
44 Competitive rivalry within the industry: moderate 1: The competitiveness in the industry can be qualified as relatively high, but given the high margins and the customer’s perception about the price, the competition is not on price, but rather on quality and image perception, as well as on the ability to attract the right designers with right abilities. 2;Marni has gained many rivals in the luxury and fashion brand industry such as Céline, Loewe, Prada, Fendi, Dries van noten, Kenzo, Bottega Veneta.
O
5F
Threat of new entrants: Low 1:To start up a new brand, significant capital expenditure is required for marketing, floor space and the product development(material), Especially it is a luxury brand. 2:The uniqueness of Marni products is irreplaceable as its unique bag and pattern. Marni is also one of the first brands to use chunky jewels on daywear. 3:But as a luxury brand, Marni is too young to not go through the baptism of years like other luxury brands. The situation is uncertain
R C E S
Bargaining power of customers: moderate 1. Marni sells through both, the direct –to – consumer channel and the wholesale. Since the account for this channel is around 60% of the total sales, we believe their bargaining power is moderate. 2. ButwethinkthebargainingpowerofcustomersforMarniclassicproductsislow because the discount is just for seasonal items rather than the classic products.
45 Bargaining power of suppliers: Low 1. As most of Marni’s products are made in Italy, due to its high labor costs and material costs, we can believe that the bargaining power of suppliers is relatively low . 2. Marni has certain quality requirements for his leather products, it is also give a result to its low bargaining power of suppliers.
K
OR EW
AM
FR
Threat of substitute products: Low 1:Marni’s products are purchased by people who want to use the items with well- designed and high quality, but they still want to keep a low profile. The demand for brands like Marni will continue. 2:However, counterfeit products represent a grave threat for the company, especially in emerging markets such as China, As the quality of counterfeit products has been improving over the past few years, we believe this problem can be solved.
46
47
C u s t o m e r
R el a t i o n s h i p
M a n a g em e n t
DATA Marni’s customer personal Data will be processed for A. administrative and accounting purposes which include aftersales services, and the adta will be kept for ten years; B. marketing purposes that dispatch of advertising material or direct sales material, market research, commercial communication even customized with automated systems (email, other communication systems via communication networks such as, by way of example but not limited to: SMS, MMS, Whatsapp, WeChat, etc.) and traditional (paper mail) contact methods, and offering of personalized sales services at data controllers stores worldwide; C. analysis of purchases details in stores and websites of data controllers worldwide. This processing is finalized to predict purchase preferences and to create clients profiles. EVENT Marni is holding world events in occasion of Salone del Mobile every year, which is Milan furniture exhibition. By holding events in which include local-collaborated workshops that allow public’s involvement integral to its brand story, Marni always introduces different culture and traditions, arise awareness of local communities, and connect their customers by cultural linkage so that fitting the brand in and creating resonance of lifestyle. It is link to the Marni Charity projects that are giving help to children through selling limited edition products. Also it is important for Marni to communicate its product characteristics that contains artisan and craftsmanship process.
48
Marni La Vereda 2018
Las Veredas are tiny urban settlements that develop around one or two streets or a cluster of houses, giving rise to small rural communities. Within these, each person is a point of reference for the others, in each Vereda sharing and know-how are the central elements of everyday life. The Marni Vereda is a place where colours, tastes and folklore are the backdrop to the new collection of furnishings and accessories of the brand that, this year, is enriched by new crafts and materials. The artisan workmanship is expressed this year through further collaborations with communities in different areas of Colombia. They bring their traditions to Milan, and are reinterpreted by Marni through its playful and experimental approach.
49
Marni Pink Pop Market in Japan
Marni welcomes the Cherry Blossom period in Japan with MARNI PINK POP MARKET, a big in store installation that involves the prestigious Stage Shinjuku Isetan Department store in Tokyo. The iconic world of Marni is offered to its guests through a playful temporary pop up store that finds its origins in the sparkling atmosphere of the city markets all around the world.
Reflecting on the concept of play, Marni invites the public to forget predefined rules and structures and interact with the surrounding space and the intriguing elements it contains.
Marni Playland
50
ART Marni Prisma program has managed to capture is an authentic and vital engagement with arts and culture that has come to define the brand over the past decades. Since 2005, Marni presents art projects in different locations to highlight its brand image with customer interaction in different format such as boutique and installation.
51
A Grande Terra Do Sertao Becoming Marni - Venice
A Grande Terra Do Sertao
Wandering in Florence
52
Special Editions Usually Marni’s special edition introduce products that are either collaborated with artists or has a specific theme. in this way, Marni again strengthens its market positioning and brand identity of culture and art, and create close relationship with customer and public.
Flower Patch Trunk for Chinese New Year Edition
Marni welcomes the Chinese New Year with the launch of the FLOWER PATCH TRUNK, a unique limited-edition Marni Trunk bag, specially created for the Chinese market. The precise lines and squared silhouette of Marni’s best-loved bag collide with romance inspired by a winter garden.
53
54
Charity Projects
55
Anticamera Marni has created eight documentaries and editorials focusing on craftsmanship and cultural folklore that contributed to its brand authenticity. Customers even visitors can have a deeper understanding toward the brand by watching videos, reading editorials, appreciating photography that tell stories behind Marni’s events, art projects and so forth. Charity Projects As an executive approach of Marni’s social responsibility, Marni’s charity projects are also helping convey a message that Marni is thinking about the wellbeing of the society, and everyone can participate in it by purchasing its limited collection. All of Marni’s customer relationship approaches are also discussed as different touch points aforementioned.
56
S
E
O en
18 K 20 .1 ul : 12 K 0 J rni’ h : ts c ul 4 . 3 :1 te Ma r da d ‘ s e a res , 5 s ta or M Da y w n i c 17.9 t i o n Ke g a e, e n O r um m ent l vo 5 K em g ga 4.
57
: ce an ar pe ap % ia ed 32.6 % 19 lm m cia ra ws So stag ne In line 17% .3% On ogs r 15 .2% Bl itte be 6 Tw utu Yo e, al m fe 25 3% 7. %, % :4 3.2 4.2 4% 3 ity 4 -54 15. rt nt , -2 de 18 , 45 ion 8% a .4% ti h . % %, 1 un le .3 4.3 fas ie, 2 n, 1 .8% co ma 10 4 % 10 v ia Ac .7% 3-17 35-4 18.6 mo sic ter, 52 e: 1 5%, est: , 7% mu wri Ag 47. ter dio 1.6% .4% 34 p in &au n: 2 r, 11 To usic atio rke m cup wo Oc alth l he ode m
58
C O R P O R A T E
S O C I A L
R E S P O N S A B I L I T Y
Marni belongs to the OTB Group which is an international fashion group, consisting of iconic brands Diesel, Maison Margiela, Viktor&Rolf. The Group plays a significant social, economic, and environmental role in the countries in which it operate. Its Executive Committee is committed to transparent and sustainable business practices across the entire group, respecting laws and regulations, and protecting environment, animal welfare, and human rights. Its Code of Ethics requires not only the group and its affiliates but also each supplier with whom they partner to adhere to shared principles and conditions. The group follows an organizational model pursuant to Italy’s Decree 231/01, as the foundation of ongoing initiative aimed at continually improving social and environmental performance.
59
Goal From challenging themselves to high standards of sustainability in their own operations, to preserving Italy’s cultural and artisanal heritage, to providing resources and funding to improve the lives of disadvantaged people around the globe, they strive to “give back� to society and contribute to its overall advancement. Marni Charity Projects Pop-up store in a different city every year selling charity edition products. Every year Marni holds various special initiatives and installations, as the yearly charity projects for the Christmas season and for Salone del Mobile. For each of these activities, Marni creates limited edition special products, made in Colombia by local artisans and women, who gain independence and freedom through their work. The products are sold exclusively in Marni boutiques and on www.marni. com, and a portion of the proceeds is donated to charity initiatives all over the world, supporting children and aimed at encouraging learning and creativity, and at raising hope for a better future.
60
Marni tribute to fashion Coca-cola 2009
61
Following the earthquake in the Abruzzo region of Italy, CocaCola launched a special project: “Tribute to Fashion”. The September following the earthquake, during Milan’s Fashion Week, the most important Italian designers were invited to “dress” the famous Coca-Cola bottle, whose shape was in fact inspired by the silhouette of a woman’s body. Marni designed four styles, one of which was a limited edition. The City of Milan donated the proceeds of the sales to projects which would breath new economical life into the areas hit by the earthquake as well as to initiatives that would help promote job training for young people, and women in particular.
62
Marni Charity Baskets / Marni’s World_ Charity 2015 A Christmas project supporting children. The sale will be donated to the Vimala Association, allowing the restoration and maintenance of a school-house in India for 50 severely disabled children. The sale will continue for a limited period on official website after sold in boutiques for a certain period of time.
63 Marni Visitors / Marni’s World_Charity 2017 The reflection on Play, which has always been an integral part of the Marni aesthetic paradigm, is the starting point for this voyage of discovery. It is expressed through a series of personalities who seem to have come from another planet, where simplicity and light-heartedness reign supreme. Where every being moves suspended between fairy tale and abstraction, in an irresistible mix of fairy-tale elements, geometry and pure colour. These are the Marni Visitors, marionettes made in painted wood and colourful resins, created for children but designed to make adults smile as well. The fascination for the past and for tradition lives on, not just through the rediscovery of playthings from the past such as marionettes, but also through the revival of the techniques typical of the costume jewellery in the Marni archives. Techniques revived through the Visitors, through the skilled hands of the Colombian artisans who collaborate, as ever, on the brand’s special projects.
64
65
P E S T L E
A N A L Y S I S
Political • Stability of political context in general is beneficial for building long-term business model. • Uncertainty of political situation and geopolitical factors will have an impact on policies in terms of tax rate, import/ export regulation, trade, supply chain, etc. e.g. Brexit, terrorism. Some countries may have limitations of import goods or fabrics. • Political issues will affect fashion trend and future, or provide branding opportunities. e.g. Brexit, anti-Trump, Royal wedding. The ‘I really don’t care. Do you?’ coat of Melania Trump evoked upset and behavior of fashion designers. • Italy as one of a founding countries of the European Union has a relatively low political risk. However, any government decision will influence the situation of European Union, especially the currency rate of Euro. This affects hugely on fashion industry and Italian luxury brands.
66
Economical • Economic volatility has a strong influence on the worldwide development of fashion industry. It is considered one of the key industries in the global economy and in terms of GDP if it was a nation would have been the seventh largest economy in the world. Since the recession, while there has been a lot of recovery, there is more to unfold in 2017. Last year, volatility in the Chinese market had a deep effect on it and for economic fluctuations in other key economies like Russia and demonetization in India, the situation till now has been tough for it. • Customer’s buying power is connected to domestic economic performance and internationally financial changes such as recession. The economic environment in Asia is doing pretty since Asian countries are constantly developing their international relationships and economic power, also there’s a lot room to grow comparing to western saturated luxury market. For this reason, luxury brands are turning their business development to Asia countries. • Different countries will adjust their international trade and financial strategy based on factors like national debt. The fluctuation of currency rate create difficulties of pricing strategy worldwide.
Social • The world population is aging. An aging population may increase the demand for larger jeans and pants sizes, such as relaxed or looser-fitting styles. Generally, many people become more sedentary when they get into their 40s and 50s. Consumers' waistlines expand so they need larger sizes and more room for comfort. Also, decreases in birth rates in some areas will lower the demand for baby clothes. • Religion is still an issue when a fashion company try to enter a country as a new market. • High class fashion is no more the privilege of upper end consumers because, it has been made affordable using technology and new techniques. • Due to the highly usage of social media, Word-OfMouth becomes more and more important for a fashion brand to build relationship with potential customers. Omni-channel and social media infiltration should be considered for brand marketing and communication strategy. • There is an increased demand for a more convenient shopping experience, especially in times when people become more career-seeking and have less time left that can be dedicated for leisure and shopping. • Customers are more and more concerned about their health, which can be confirmed by a steady increase in individual health expenditure over the last decade. This may lead to a greater customer interest in the materials used, their origin and their processing methods, demanding more transparency and accountability on behalf of the fashion firms. • Fashion tastes and trends of teenagers and young adults are very diverse and volatile nowadays and are influenced by celebrities and the media. T echnological • Technologies such as 3D printing, Artificial Intelligence are creating more ways of engagement and purchasing of fashion products aw well as generating more needs. • Provide substitutes of rare materials such as leather, or introduce new material to market so that provide innovation possibilities and challenges for fashion companies.
67
• Computer system like chatbots help companies collect and manage customer data and relationship easily and effectively. • People accept new technology faster and faster, which create intensive competition between fashion companies to constantly update and improve their operation, especially the adoption of technology in manufacturing, distribution and communication. • Today consumers are well ignored and make choices after researching everything. They discuss their choices with the others and also share their views. The millennial generation mostly likes to shop online and likes a personalized experience in terms of shopping and customer service. Technology has disrupted several things and apart from improved production and supply chain, it has also brought greater effectiveness to the sales and marketing of fashion products. Another area where technology has benefited the fashion brands is in terms of overseas expansion. Ecommerce has helped them go past borders and sell to a larger customer segment.
68
69 Legal • Fashion brands must obey local labor law and pay taxes to avoid lawsuit, also to build and maintain a legit brand image in that region/country. • Environmental law will also affect a fashion brand’s strategy and operation. • Fashion brands and luxury brands need to pay attention to the intellectual property law of where they’re operate in to prevent the negative emotion toward the brand from locals. Marni always highlight its product origins and give credits to the people involved in its collaboration and limited products.
Environmental • Climate change and global warming might pose serious challenges to fashion companies in the future, especially within developing countries. Contingent events like droughts, tsunamis or floods are often unforeseeable and can harm the growth of cotton and the maintenance of manufacturing facilities. Since many retailers have shifted the production to so-called developing countries in Asia, they need to be particularly aware of such environmental risks and prepare production plants and workers for upcoming events. • Developing countries nowadays attach importance of sustainability and environmental ethics during the production and operation process of fashion industry. As per the McKinsey report, fashion brands have prioritized sustainable fashion and this is working to transform product design and manufacturing. In the emerging markets more than 65% of the consumers are seeking sustainable fashion actively. In the mature markets this figure is 32% or less. The report also highlights that sustainability has become a key influencer of the consumers’ purchasing decisions. Several large fashion brands like Nike or H&M have formulated sustainability goals and are working actively to achieve them. They are working in the direction of maximization of productivity and minimization of carbon footprint. • Fashion leaves a great environmental footprint along its supply chain and life cycle. For instance, growing non-organic cotton is cheaper than organic cotton and requires a big amount of chemicals, water and pesticides, which harm human health and have a significant, long-lasting impact on the environment. • Textileproductionfacilitiesusealotofenergyandwaterand,inor dertoremain low-cost, process toxic chemicals and fertilisers that generate contaminated water and volatile emissions which creates a lot contamination. Nevertheless, many managers and business owners seem to still be separating environmental and business issues although they are closely interlinked and need to be combined in order to create a positive and long-lasting brand image. It is not for no reason that more and more consumers, governments and other stakeholders demand more sustainable and ethical practices in daily business operations. If fashion companies want to maintain loyal customers, they need to reduce their impact on the environment and invest in sustainable and eco- friendly practices in order to reduce waste and minimize the pollution of water and air.
70
A N N U A L
R E P O R T
71
2 0 1 6 The 2016 annual results of Italian fashion group OTB, owner of Diesel, Maison Margiela, Marni, Paula Cademartori, Viktor&Rolf, Staff International and Brave Kid, were consistent with those of previous years, Revenue reached €1.580 billion(its was €1.582 billion in 2015, in like -for-like terms);EBITDA was €68 million, vs €68.5 million in 2015, and consolidated profits amounted to €3.8 million, compared to €3.5 million in 2015. Marni has enjoyed a double-digit growth, reaching €170 million, with a strong boost provided by the accessories category, handbags in particular. Staff International, specialised in product development, production and worldwide distribution, continues to grow the business of all its licensed labels organically (Maison Margiela, Marni Uomo, Dsquared, Vivienne Westwood, Just Cavalli and Marc Jacobs Men's), and has topped the €390 million revenue mark.
72
73
74
V I S I O N A fun pool filled with elegance and absurdity
M I S S I O N To break monotonousness, release and enjoy inward peculiarities.
V A L U E Central value: Vitality, cross-pollinate with all possible fields to evoke self-expression
Expressive value: Subversion, giving unexpected and unpredictable form of presence
Instrumental value: Experimentation, through art and installation that engaging anyone
75
The peculiar
Amplifies senses 3 D
Euphoria
B U S I N E S S
M O D EL
76
Target: The peculiar, people who maintain a ‘common’ way of life, and who are elegant in terms of behavior and aesthetics, but haven’t found out the inside peculiar obsessions to relax themselves. Technology: Amplified senses, create appealing and elegant absurdity by exaggerating visual and sound in communication. Occasion of use: Euphoria, provide tools for anyone who need to release tension and find something absurdly enjoyable to feel satisfied, but still remain calm and elegant.
77
78
B C G
A N A L Y S I S
STARS: BAGS & SHOES(Menswear and womenswear) The bags and shoes series are the star of Marni’s products since they have a large market share in the growing leather segmentation. Marni is the first brand to design bags into multiple layers, highly practical products. Fussbett sandals are also one of the stars product, the famous silhouette and color scheme. The market is growing so that requires investment like revivals and extends to maintain its lead. QUESTION MARK: READY TO WEAR(Men and Women),scarf RTW is the brand spindle product line, which is also the heaviest in the entire product line. Scarf are also one of the question mark product, that printing and color represent the identity of the brand and combine the most commonly used collaboration to connect with artists from different fields. This business unit has a small market share in a high growth segment, it requires resources to grow and come up with at it bag to achieve the star status. CASH COW: Jewelry Check Jewelry series such as earrings, necklaces and brooches are Marni’s cash cow. Marni's jewelry is a very strong iconic design, which is highly recognized. Different from other brands, it uses PVC and leather different materials to design geometric figures and exaggerated sizes. Most of the color choices are made by high chroma color. That is such an entry level product in a mature, slow growing segment. It requires little investment that has been used to develop other product lines.
DOGS: Fragrances, socks Fragrances and socks have a small market share in a mature industry. Although it does not require substantial cash, but it ties up capital that could better be deployed elsewhere. Therefore, it should be liquidate
79
290-2700
FENDI
R
90-2100
PRADA
P
300-18000
LOEWE
CÉLINE
NAME
80
360-7000
IC E Relaxed,Free-
Elegant,minialist, modern and chic
Spirtied,casual,Looks for quality,
Wealthy, fashion aware,
craftsmanship and timeless in
and concerned with
pieces. Work in the design industry
presenting a certain
and is influenced by it. But now
appearance to the public
Over age 30-50,also targeting younger audience,by making a new line called Fendissimo.
T A R
Loewe is more focus on younger
Individuals and
market
trendsetters
G E T
E X B
T
R
E
A
N
N
S
D
IO
N
Ready to wear. Handbag.
Small leather goods
Small leather goods.
shoes. Jewellery
shoes. Jewellery.
sunglasses
sunglasses. Perfume
Strong in balance of femininity
Colourful, youthful, and
Ready to wear. Handbag. Wallet. shoes. Jewellery sunglasses. perfume
Ready to wear. Handbag. Leather goods. shoes. Jewellery. sunglasses. watches perfume
A
Ready to wear. Handbag.
E S S O
optimistic
political expression and fashion
Creativity, Technology and craftsmanship
C
I S A IC D EL T E E N M H A L T H IA C
and classic design
Self-expression, feminism,
D IS T R IB
Instagram. Wechat. Linkedln.
Instagram. Facebook. Youtube.
Instagram. Facebook. Youtube.
Online website
Twitter. Pinterest. Online
Twitter. Pinterest. Online
website
website
Directly Operated Stores,Store
Directly Operated Stores,Store
Directly Operated Stores,Store
in Store retailers in high end
in Store retailers in high end
in Store retailers in high end
department stores.100 own
department stores.105 own
department stores.140 own
branded stores worldwide
branded stores worldwide
branded in 57 countries. 250,000
U
selling points
Instagram. Facebook. Youtube. Twitter. Pinterest. Wechat. Weibo. Line. Spotify. Snapchat. Google. Online website
Directly Operated Stores,Store in Store retailers in high end department stores.197 nationwide stores(Europe, American, Japan,China&Middle
T
West
IO N
elegance
MARNI
Embody modernity and timeless
KENZO
BOTTEGA VENETA 1100-10000
160-745
174-2200
Young people with youthful
Women who are curious and
spirit and a sense of fun and
sophisticated, fashion-oriented
cheekiness
but with a strong identity and a personal vision.
Ready to wear. Bag.
Ready to wear. Handbag.
Cases & Folio.shoes.Jewellery
Shoes. Jewellery.
Perfume
Scarves.Caps. Perfume
Sunglasses. Scarves. Caps. Perfume.
Elegant and discrete, the brand
Colourful, youthful, vibrant and
Unconventional, feminine and
is synonymous of highest
eclectic epitomize the concept
funky brand, the expression
craftsmanship, and innovative
of "west meets east"by merging
of an aesthetic that has been
design
fun print with an ethnic vibe,
called “European-inflected
flowers
bohemianism�.
Instagram. Facebook. Youtube.
Instagram. Facebook. Youtube.
Instagram. Facebook. Youtube.
Twitter. Pinterest. Wechat.
Twitter. Pinterest. Weibo.
Twitter. Weibo. Line. Online
Weibo. Online website
Linkdln. Online website
website
74%Flagship store worldwide
Over 320 point of sales
23%Department store 3%Multi-
worldwide,Marni began a
brand store and the main
roll out of freestanding Marni
distribution is flagship store,
boutiques and shop-in-shop.
Ready to wear. Bag. shoes. Jewellery .Small leather goods.
251 boutiques in 43 countries
81
82
The strategic group map illustrates different marketing segmentation in different brands. According to vertical integration-price and horizontal integration-lifestyle approach are defined product and service quality, which is divided into mainstream and alternative in four circles. The one group on the far left and top of coordinate represents the luxury brands are considered more individual and unique services with high quality. An example of Louis Vuitton extends brand depth in other fields (e.g. Louis Vuitton foundation, voyage book, and hotel) that makes customers feel prestige and distinctive even provides customization service.
The group on the middle of coordinate indicates the brands are considered brand extension more close validation with lower price. People having the products and service with lower restrictive but the quality still keeping in an excellent level. The group on the middle and left of coordinate represents the semi-mass brands. These brands differ from luxury brands, they are more accessible, affordable, and accustomed lifestyle. Agnès b. is a typical case, they are developing exhibition, art gallery, and crossover with some of young brands or artists in different fields.
The group on the far right of coordinate indicates mass brands, which are more affordable in price. An example is Muji, which has brand extension in hotel, food, furniture, apparel, and cosmetics. Even though this brand does not have really high-end quality, they are the best one which developing Omnidirectional lifestyle the depth.
83
84
B R A N D
I D E N T I T Y
Physique: Unique and characteristic design of items and fabric eclectic design, opticalpop characteristics printings,exclusive material materials and pop style also for whatconcers accessories and jewellery,colourful and pop art inspired logo: Elegant and minimal
P R I S M
Picture of sender
Relationship: Good quality Distinct identity Unique design
Personality: Art Instinct Creativity
Culture: Individuality Personality Self-expression
Reflection: Modern, extravagant and elegant woman Picture of receiver
Self-image: Unconventional design Extravagant approach
85
86
SWOT
ANALYSIS
Strengths 1.High reputation of raw materials coming from Italy in order to gain more consumer confidence 2.MARNI has unique and iconic brand identification in eclecticism and deconstruction. For example: glamorous color tone 〠various pattern printing boxy and draping shape. 3.MARNI is always up for collaborations and events with artist to make its image more dynamic. 4.They are the first brand to produce chunky jewels on daywear.
Weaknesses 1.Perform relatively bad at covering more consumer needs due to its monotonous product range 2.Weak brand awareness as they are lack of educational or promotional events for the consumers to understand the brand value. 3.Not being able to attract more consumer since the extension of products or services is not well constructed to be in coherent with trends and massive needs in the market. 4. Poor communication in particular the digital ones which lower their online visibility.
87
Opportunities 1.Good brand image in China which can allow the brand to invest more in other Asian countries as well with the past experiences. 2.Make use of the iconic brand aesthetic and product design as the basis to communicate with the consumers. 3.Millennials tend to seek for novelty in life and traveling is popular among the younger generation which allow Marni to interact with the target more.
Threats 1. Further research is needed to study European market for penetration. 2. It takes time to develop a better online strategy to get closer to the targets in the fast paced digital age. 3. Consumers’ lack of understanding of the brand value.
88
89
90
B i g
i d ea
‘TRAVEL’ with Marni 'SENSE OF DIFFERENCE’ Since the purpose of Marni market (pop up stores) is an international charity event, it can also act as an opportunity for people to travel around the world in which they can have different cultural experiences. The purpose of travelling has changed today. It seems to be just going to beautiful places, taking pictures, having local food, and posting photos on social media to get more likes. That’s what most people gain satisfaction nowadays, but that’s not a meaningful and unforgettable travel experience. Some of magnificent sceneries, delectable meals, the fragrance of flowers, dynamic busking music and so on are the things which make a travel experience enjoyable. Those memories are the combination of six physical abilities to see, hear, smell, taste, feel, last but not least, to open up a heart. People can incorporate their own moods with their travel experiences, then they will get different feelings of five senses. The constant daily live make us forget the some details while these details actually bring people simplicity and happiness in live. Therefore, we are going to promote a simple yet meaningful travelling lifestyle to get through our idea. People encounter with products related to six senses and social life everyday according to their personal lifestyle. Brand like Armani and MUJI provide monotonous series of products in order to form a united simple lifestyle. They want to maintain a delicate daily routine but also be curious and having the sense of humor about any other odd and interesting things. Even though, Marni has elegant and colorful design, which is not bold enough to raise consumers’ interests to a certain extent. Thus, there is a possibility of injecting fun and absurdity into a toneless brand personality, creating interaction with target beyond their expectations, cultivating a peculiar mindset to form a lifestyle full of fun and joy.
91
92
93 According to our observations, although Marni is portrayed as a luxury brand, the operation is not as good as other luxury brands in many ways. Including the monotonousness of product ranges, the ability to create the new star products, and the weak promotion of brand awareness. Many of the reasons have led to the lack of interest in luxury industry in recent years. Among them, there are three main issues that need to be discussed and adjusted: 1. After Marni introduced the trunk package in spring and summer of 2014, it became the brand's most popular product. After five years, they don’t have any key products have been launched to drive the brand popularity, resulting in the decline of Marni visibility in recent years. 2. Although there is still a charity basket bag to maintain the popularity in these years, but this product is low-priced (60 euros), less selling point of purchase (pop-up marni market), short product selling time. There is an interesting phenomenon. Most of the consumers are from Asia (China, Japan) and very few consumers in Europe or America. In summary, the pricing is too low, it is difficult to purchase, and the exposure is not high enough. The combination of the above reasons determines that it’s hard for Marni to develop next star product. 3. Marni is not aggressive in marketing and communication. In the case of basket bag, pop-up Marni market has been launched since 2014. This marketing strategy is a completely good idea, but it is not much exposure to use the social media and advertisement, resulting in the inability to extend and strengthen the brand popularity.
-Communication 1. How to use the correct marketing strategy including social media to enhance brand visibility? (build a new website and make more relevant to the existing social media presence) 2. Reach new target audience, especially create a new image (according to the brand identity) interesting (for example) for the millennials generation as consumers. More than ever Marni has to balance seeking profits and appealing to a wider audience with its exclusive arty character and remarkable innovation. Marni has opened several new stores in the last years and hosted events like Marni Prisma in international locations. But the target group is much wider spread and the brand will need to find a way to reach its consumers beyond its stores and communicate with them in a meaningful and memorable way.
-Product 1. 1. How to use the original star products to develop new products? (trunk bag and basket bag) For an example: trunk bag can develop the similar strategy like Furla Metropolis bag or Pandora, allowing consumers to create their own products (customized). The price of each piece seems to be easy to buy, but the final combination will reach the basic brand price range, it will not bring down the gross margin.
Our concept will be divided into two parts, the first is the product, and the second is the communicationă€
94
95
96
97
A bs u r d i t y E l e ga n c e
+
ASMR will be the core value to connect with our innovation idea and to communicate with the consumers. This idea will penetrate into two different parts, including market communication and merchandising. why ASMR? ASMR signifies the subjective experience of "low-grade euphoria". The sole purpose of ASMR is for people to relax. The ASMR community is constantly growing on Youtube. Ideally, ASMR videos are meant to give the viewers a relaxing tingle at the back of their heads and/ or spines. ASMR provides people with a relaxing environment, the vision and hearing are stimulated and impacted. In order to let people to feel relieved from physical and mental pressure,the environment for ASMR would be in a dark or private space. ASMR is a lifestyle that reflects our mundane life. In this explosion and over-stress era, people wish to have a relaxing lifestyle. Thus, ASMR is a new trend, which can be an interesting phenomenon to connect with Marni’s brand spirit. It gives potential to Marni in becoming a lifestyle brand to engage with consumers more and implant the concept into their daily life.
98 Communication & Retail For exhibition: We will hold some exhibitions and these exhibitions are connected the Marni pop-market to travel to different countries, we will invite some celebrities 〠ASMR youtuber, artist, musician, photographer, etc〠or just ordinary people to wear ruff collar (not traditional, designed by Marni) which is similar to trunk bag (many layers, different colors, different leather) when they are eat local food. The guests can listen to the ASMR from the earphone which will be placed in front of the different exhibition stand. Celebrities: Anna Wintour, Victoria Beckham Inviting the celebrities with image which perceived as more serious, yet they bring positive influence to the public in order to show the dramatic contrast in ASMR. LA-based artist Katy Ann Gilmore combines art and mathematics to transform flat surfaces into three-dimensional illusions. Her works are often planned or inspired by mathematical formulae, graphs, and equations, resulting in extraordinary shapes and patterns that play with perspectives. Each line drawing is meticulously handdrawn using pens and markers. It makes people feel like entering into a stereo space which would help people to concentrate more on the ASMR sounds.
Ruff
99
100
101
For window display: ASMR shows will also be used in the Marni stores window, it will have different performance to show the ASMR at particular time within the working hours. For advertising: Brand campaigns
102
QR CODE PRINT: we put QR code to be one of the print in the bag, or it also can be a collection (use the same leather, and print QR code on it), when you use your phone to scan it, it will link to a youtube video or Spotify and you can listen to the soundtrack, each bag has their own unique sound, After purchasing the bag, you can experience ASMR through mobile phone scanning.
MERCHANDISING〠trunk bag〠How to use the original star products to develop new products? (trunk bag and basket bag) For an example: trunk bag can develop the similar strategy like Furla Metropolis bag or Pandora, allowing consumers to create their own products (customized). The price of each piece seems to be easy to buy, but the final combination will reach the basic brand price range, it will not bring down the gross margin. Customers can choose different layers and leather patterns to make their favorite bags.
103
104
105 Product extension: Make up: lipstick When we enjoy the ASMR, we will more focus on the performer’s neck and mouth, although the clothes in Marni are not iconic product, we are still impressed with its colorful color and print, so maybe we develop a new product will be a good idea. Perfume: Based on the smell from Marni’s special wood,leather
106
Brand cooperation: Since we want to put Marni to be a lifestyle brand, cooperate with some lifestyle brand like MUJI (Audio equipment; Aroma diffuser) in order to promote Marni’s relaxing life philosophy
107
108
109
ANALYSIS BASED ON THE BIG IDEA
110
3 D
B U S I N E S S
M O D E L
The peculiar
Amplifies sense
Euphoria
111
VISION A fun pool filled with elegance and absurdity MISSION To break monotonousness, release and enjoy inward peculiarities. VALUE Central value: Vitality, cross-pollinate with all possible fields to discover deep satisfaction Expressive value: Subversion, giving unexpected and unpredictable form of presence Instrumental value: Experimentation, through art and installation that engaging anyone
112
Target: The peculiar, people who are elegant but devilish, full of energy inside without finding out the most suitable obsessions to release themselves. They are the people considered as nice and caring but a bit distant, introverted on the outside, cool on the inside. They notice things that are usually neglected by others, declare their manifesto calmly. If there’s anything they want, they will go for it on full speed until they get it. There is a big family of them without boundaries of age and gender. They are the students, full-time moms, musicians, bloggers, artists, retired people. No matter what they do, they don’t want clichÊ.
JiaYi, 26, Chinese artisan lives in Shanghai. She has nomadic lifestyle, frequently moves to cities with different climates and views. She is always kind and helpful to people, but prefer to enjoy time herself doing art projects. She spend her income on details of living environment such as plants, scents, furnitures, etc. She pays attention to art projects to refresh her mind and style.
Chiara, 23, Italian dancer lives in Milan. She is sensitive to the surroundings, translating her interpretation of things into her dance movement. She is caring, easygoing, and optimistic, comes up creative ideas anytime. She enjoys traveling and excitement of culture difference
113
Technology: Amplified senses, create appealing and elegant absurdity by exaggerating visual and sound in communication. Occasion of use: Euphoria, provide tools for anyone who need to release tension and find something absurdly enjoyable to feel satisfied, but still remain calm and elegant.
114
Strengths 1. There is no brand currently attaching ASMR to marketing plan. 2. The re-styling is crazy, amusing and back to bedlam which is emotionally delightful. The brand spirit is a niche market. 3. The merchandising part is more versatile to extend product assortment. 4. The new philosophy will be appealing to younger audience like millennial who has personality type ENTP.
Weaknesses 1. ASMR is a part of personal privacy. When we look for a partnership with youtubers who are not identified as ASMR, they may rejected this project, in particular public figures may also be reluctant to show this part in public. 2. The idea of chewing sound may not be acceptable to everyone.
Threats 1. European audiences may not accept the concept of ASMR. 2. The interests of target will fade away soon. 3. Criticize from the society Opportunities 1. ASMR is a trending attraction as numerous videos are uploaded online worldwide. 2. Target audiences are eager for unique and peculiar ideas. 3. Opportunities to cross-pollinate with different fields. The behavior of sharing online is beneficial to create the buzz. 4. Creation of various contents based on culture differences.
115
116
117
High price
Low profile
High profile
Low price
This positioning map based on the lifestyle brand analysis since we want to push Marni as a lifestyle brand. High profile and Low profile point to brand product category. Brand like Gucci will be putted in the high profile location for its diverse product lines like Gucci garden, Gucci cafe,furniture,ect. and Kenzo will be putted in the Low profile for its simplex product line
118
A C T I O N
P L A N
119
120 ACTION PLAN IN EUROPE
In order to develop the brand awareness in Europe, we have chosen Venice as a stop in Marni’s travel. Venice and especially Murano (a small island nearby the city) are famous for their ability in creating objects and jewels with glass. So we want to combine this great traditional manufacture with the traditional Marni design of objects, accessories and jewels. .
121
122
CELEBRITIES Our strategy will combine pop-up stores and merchandise, exclusive objects and jewels will be available for the consumers in the stores. We have choose as brand ambassador, Matilda De Angelis (a young Italian actress) as iconic diva. She will be the main character of the micro-movie that we will shoot in Venice, based on the real travel and a travel to understand who she is
VIDEOS The movie will be made by the YouNutsProd, a video production company based in Rome, well-known for the creation of music videos. In this video we want to share the idea of living, travelling and the city using the six senses (taste, sight, touch, smell, sound and the sixth sense, the perception of the world filtered by our heart and our personal sensibility, that we want to call “sense of Marni”). For example we will show the protagonist, while she is eating her food and enjoying it, showing the detail of the movement of her mouth at the same time and Marni’s accessories.
123
INTERIOR DESIGN During the movie we will see the iconic pieces of the collection that will combine the traditional Murano’s style with the materials and the design of Marni. The pop up stores will be located in Venice, the design will be inspired by the traditional “vetrerie” (glass laboratories) of Venice, but also with a constant link to the water (as a main characteristic of Venice and as a symbol of fluidity and freedom, characteristics of the kind of woman that we want to represent). In this way, we will try to represent every characteristic both from the city that we have chosen as a symbol and from the brand.
SOUND The water will be represented by the sound that the customers will hear in the shops. We have decided also to shoot a campaign in Venice by the Italian photographer Carlotta Manaigo (well-known for her decadent touch, elegant and formal aesthetic) , showing in a “magical” way where all the manufacturing process of glass and how the objects “become alive”.
124
Retail
Retail is an annual plan focus on merchandising and displaying, which conveys Marni’s philosophy. Part of the merchandising goods will be necklaces and earrings. They are made in glass but with the well-known Marni style. The visual merchandising of the stores will be a setting with a desk at the corner where the customers can choose all the elements to personalise they necklaces and earrings.
Social media Timeline: start from February the whole year Youtube: Launch of the micromovie, behind the scenes video Livestream: Facebook, IG-TV, Youtube Instagram: 1 post/ 3 days showing the exhibition news and clues about the movie content for the launch, Instagram stories every day with the same content. 1 post/5 days showing the exhibition news after the launch. Facebook: 1 post/ 4 days showing the exhibition news and clues about the movie content for the launch. 1 post/7 days showing the exhibition news after the launch.
campaign
Tmeline: start from February the whole year Youtube: launch of the micro-movie video campaign Google display network: Google advertisement Banner ad: some of e-commerce and on-line magazine eDM: 1 email/1 week before the launch , 1 email/2 weeks before the launch
125
126
LAUNCH
PRE-LAUNCH
Retail Timeline
Start from April whole year
Product
Bijoux
Display
Sound of water and campaign micro-movie and Oliviero Toscani pictures
Social media
Start from February whole year
Timeline Youtube
Launch new campaign video and exhibition trailer
Behind the scenes video
Live steam
Facebook, IG TV, Youtube
1 post / 3 days showing the exhibition news about the movie content for the launch,
1 post/ 4 days showing the exhibition news and clues about the movie content for the launch.
Campaign
Start from February whole year
Timeline Youtube
launch of the micro-movie video campaign
Google Display Network
GGoogle advertisement
Banner AD
Some of e-commerce and online magazine
DM
1 mail / 1 week
POST-LAUNCH 1 post / 5 days showing the exhibition news 1 post / 7 days showing the exhibition news
1 mail / 2 weeks
127
128
ET
DE
TA
IL
LAUNCH
DG
PRE-LAUNCH
BU
Media investment Magazine page
€ 100,000
TV advertisement
€ 20,000
Digital billboards
€ 300,000
€ 300,000
Digital paid media
€ 300,000
€ 300,000
OOH
€ 20,000
€ 20,000
TOTAL
€ 1,020,000
€ 620,000
Social media management
€ 10,000
€ 10,000
Website page idea
€ 6,000
Website production and management
€ 70,000
TOTAL
€ 86,100
Digital
€ 10,000
POST-LAUNCH € 250,000 € 250,000 € 20,000 € 520,000
€ 10,000 € 35,000
€ 10,000
129
130
ET
DE
TA
IL
LAUNCH
DG
PRE-LAUNCH
BU
Event (opening of the main pop-up store in Venice’s city center) Artists
€ 200,000
Celebrity
€ 100,000
Micro-movie production
€ 80,000 € 380,000
TOTAL Production Costs
€ 800,000
Production Costs MINOR TOTAL TOTAL
€ 1.106,100
€ 1.060,000
131 POST-LAUNCH € 530,000
€ 3.226,100
132
133 ACTION PLAN IN ASIA
In order to develop much more brand awareness in Asia, we will choose Seoul to be our next charity city. As you know Marni has an outstanding reputation in China and Japan, this time we are moving to other city to explore prospective consumers. The amazing culture and lifestyle of Korea shares the similar with Marni’s brand identity.
ASMR in Korean was originally called Mukbang, which is a different type of eating style from China and Europe. It means when you record the sound of eating, the louder the more tasteful. We are separated into four different parts, one of exhibition and the others are retail, campaign and social media.
134 EXHIBITION
CELEBRITIES
The exhibition is the core concept based on our short-term business plan combines with pop-up store and merchandise. We will invite Emma Watson to be our ambassador who will show us how to have a traditional Korean meal in this exhibition. And we have some of Asian celebrities and youtubers to do the performance.
INTERIOR DESIGN
The artist Katy Ann Gilmore is responsible for whole interior design.
135
MARNI MARKET
Marni Market is a temporary pop up store that carries out the powerful and imaginative world of Marni, offering to its guests the chance of purchasing exclusive products and immersing themselves in a lively ambiance with bright colors and scenic prints. Each element reflects the aesthetic paradigm of the brand, defined by the harmonious balance of shapes, materials and colors.
136
KOREAN FOOD
Besides, it offers to our consumers an experience of tasting traditional Korean food with a contemporary style in the Bistro and also wearing traditional Korean clothes as local life.
FILMS
During the government sponsor our plan is that you can see some of micro films and campaign video to explore the city and find out more about Marni.
137
We will create an atmosphere of exhibition to cooperate with MUJI’s audio equipment that fill with Marni distinctive scent around entire environment.
Brand cooperation
The limited products are launched in the same time including iconic totes, basket bags, accessories and new arrival Marni lipsticks. All of these combine with Korean pattern. The whole space will be full of Marni perfume and playing music made by musician. Our main aim is to use five senses to travel and enjoy this city creating the sixth sense is represent yourself and Marni.
limited products
138
139
Retail is an annual plan focusing on merchandise and conveying Marni’s philosophy. Part of merchandise is trunk bag, which recreated into a new style. Another one is basket bag made of leather but stays the same shapes and colorful pattern. The visual merchandise of store will be set a music player on the corner that helps customer listen to individual music by themselves when customer scan different QR code from each product. RETAIL
140
social media
We will focus on the live stream and KOL sponsorship, which are popular in Asian, in order to increase sales volume in the short time. The other social media platform will push more of posts compare to before. But we will choose kakao talk, which is the biggest instant messaging app in Korea when you need to explore prospective consumers.
141
Campaign
Campaign video will be launched before the exhibition on February. In the same time, we will start purchasing some of advertisement like google adword, banner advertisement and E-DM that will be a long-term plan even after the exhibition.
Exhibition Timeline
April-June
Location
Gyeongbokgung
Artists
Katy Ann Gilmore
Celebrities
Emma Watson Gong Hyo-jin Gong Yoo (5) Yang Mi (6) Youtuber
Fran Yang soo bin Yuka Kinoshita 密子君 Pop up store
Bistro Marni market Cinema Limited product
Tranditional outfit experience Tote bag made of tranditional Korean fabric Basket bag made of Korean pattern Lipstick
POST-LAUNCH
LAUNCH
AC TIO NP LA N
PRE-LAUNCH
142
143
144
LAUNCH
PRE-LAUNCH
Retail Timeline
Start from April whole year
Product
Basket bag made of leather
Display
Music player scan the QRcode to listen individual music
Social media
Start from February whole year
Timeline Youtube
Launch new campaign video and exhibition trailer
Behind the scenes video
Live steam
Facebook, IG TV, Youtube
1 post / 3 days showing the exhibition news
1 post / 4 days showing the exhibition news
Kakao
1 post / 3 days showing the exhibition news
Talk
Sponsorship
KOL
Campaign Start from February whole year
Timeline Youtube
Launch new campaign video
Google Display Network
Google adword, Google ad
Banner AD DM
Some of e-commerce and online magazine 1 mail / 1 week
145 POST-LAUNCH 1 post / 5 days showing the exhibition news 1 post / 7 days showing the exhibition news 1 post / 5 days showing the exhibition news
1 mail / 2 weeks
146
Magazine page: DAZED, i-D, LOVE, VOGUE, FUDGE Digital billboards: DAZED, i-D, VOGUE digital WAD OOH: Billboard, Street furniture, Mobile billboards, Guerrilla advertising
MEDIA INVESTMENT €2,000,000
Digital paid media: Google, Google adwords, Instagram, Yahoo search, Baidu, Weibo, Facebook, Youtube, Kakao talk
Social media management: Facebook, Instagram, Weibo, Youtube, Kakao talk content. Social media advertisement: Carousel advertisement at Facebook, Instagram, Weibo, Kakao talk. Sponsored conversation: Digital blogs, Live stream, KOL from Instagram, Facebook, Weibo
BTL MATERIALS &CRM €220,000
147
B UD G ET
Celebrities: Emma Watson, Gong Hyo-jin, Gong Yoo, Yang Mi
DIGITAL €240,000
Artists and influencers: Fran, Yang soo bin, Yuka Kinoshita,、、、 Playground production and management
INTEGRATER CAMPAIGN BUDGET: €7,272,000
Social media management: Facebook, Instagram, Weibo, Youtube, Kakao talk content.
Product extension: Basket bag, Jewellery, Lipstick
PRODUCTION COSTS €800,000
DIGITAL €240,000
Retail store kits: Window display, Press release, Music player
Direct marketing: Weekly digital newsletter
Retail store corners DSM: Venice, Milano, Paris, London New York, Shanghai, Seoul, Tokyo
148
ET
DE
TA
IL
LAUNCH
DG
PRE-LAUNCH
BU
Media investment Magazine page Digital billboards
€ 100,000 € 300,000
€ 300,000
Digital paid media
€ 300,000
€ 300,000
OOH
€ 100,000
€ 100,000
TOTAL
€ 800,000
€ 700,000
Social media management
€ 10,000
€ 10,000
Social media advertisement
€ 30,000
€ 30,000
Sponsored conversation
€ 60,000
€ 60,000
TOTAL
€ 100,000
€ 100,000
Digital
BTL materials & CRM Retail store kits
€ 100,000
Retail store corners DSM
€ 50,000
€ 50,000
Direct marketin
€ 10,000
€ 10,000
TOTAL
€ 160,000
€ 60,000
Event Playground production and management
€ 76,000
Artist and influencer
€ 100,000
Celebrity
€ 1000,000
TOTAL
€0
€ 1176,000
149 POST-LAUNCH € 250,000
€ 10,000 € 30,000
€ 40,000
Production costs
€ 800,000
MINOR TOTAL
€ 4,072,000
MINOR TOTAL
TOTAL
Production costs
€0
€0
LAUNCH
PRE-LAUNCH
€ 500,000
POST-LAUNCH
€ 250,000
€ 2,120,000
€1,080,000 €7,272,000
150
151
152
R E F E R E N C E
Barratt Emma, Davis Nick (2015). Autonomous Sensory Meridian Response (ASMR): a flow-like mental state. [online] NCBI Available at: https:// www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4380153/ Emma Taggart. (2018). Artist Hand-Draws 3D Optical Illusions on Walls That Play With Depth and Perspective. [online] Mymodernmet Available at: https://mymodernmet.com/math-art-line-drawing-katy-ann-gilmore/ Fran. (2013). Fran. [online] Youtube Available at: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC8kRUGUkq_sTGuKNR1l6Rrw Marni. [online] Marni. Available at: http://www.marni.com/experience/en/event/ Soo Bin Yang. (2015). Soo Bin Yang. [online] Youtube Available at: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCYJrfuYXNqb5XSRd22XRwGw Thomas J. Watson. (2018). ENTP PERSONALITY (“THE DEBATER”). [online] 16 Personalities Available at: https://www.16personalities.com/entppersonality Yuka Kinoshita. (2014). Yuka Kinoshita. [online] Youtube Available at: https://www.youtube.com/user/kinoyuu0204 密子君 . (2016). 密子君 . [online] Youtube Available at: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCRH3HVQNaRLZY18qv9ZQGMw
Admin. (2018). BOOMINGDALES CATALOGUE. [online] Capital.D. Available at: https://www.capitaldstudio.com/boomingdales-catalogue/ Alice. (2018). [online] Pinterest. Available at: https://za.pinterest.com/pin/317503842464174324/?lp=true Barbra W. (2017). 巴黎镜头下的忧郁男人味:孔刘出境 Louis Vuitton 秋冬男装形象片。 [online] Thefemin. Available at: http://thefemin. com/2017/07/gong-yoo-louis-vuitton-campaign-fw-17/ Jessica Chastain, Peter Lindbergh. (2017). EMMA WATSON. [online] Interviewmagazine. Available at: https://www.interviewmagazine.com/ film/emma-watson-1 Margherita Visentini. (2015). IN CONVERSATION WITH: OLIMPIA ZAGNOLI. [online] Polpettas. Available at: http://www.polpettas.com/it/inconversation-with-olimpia-zagnoli/ Marni. [online] Marni. Available at: http://www.marni.com/experience/en/event/
153 Marni. [online] Marni. Available at: http://www.marni.com/experience/en/event/ Marni Weibo. [online] Marni Weibo. Available at: https://www.weibo.com/officialmarni?nick=MARNI Muji. [online] Muji. Available at: http://muji.eu News of fashion. (2018). Marni Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2018-19 | FashionTV | FTV. [online] News Of Fashion. Available at: https://newsoffashion.com/marni-milan-fashion-week-fall-winter-2018-19-fashiontv-ftv/ Net a Porter. (2012). Net a Porter: Marni. [online] Sunbeam studios. Available at: http://www.sunbeamstudios.com/2012/06/16/neta-porter-marni/ Neuf. (2018). CATALOGUE MARNI VÊTEMENTS SOULIERS SACS À MAIN FEMME PRINTEMPS-ÉTÉ 2017. [online] ebay. Available at: https://www.ebay.fr/itm/CATALOGUE-MARNI-VETEMENTS-SOULIERS-SACS-A-MAIN-FEMME-PRINTEMPS-ETE2017/113207106197?hash=item1a5bab5a95:g:IRYAAOSwdGFYxsST
Stefania Scaparrotti. (2016). Io e marni. [online] Charmenchic. Available at: http:// www.charmenchic.com/en/author/stefania/ 农 村 那 些 事。 (2018). 大 胃 王 密 子 君 吃 重 庆 火 锅 . [online] Health. Available at: http://health.kaiwind.com/zj/201409/15/ t20140915_1922513.shtml Malika Favre. (2018). Art Finds:Illustrations from Malika Favre. Available at: http://designpeeper.com/blog/2018/01/26/artfindsillustrations-from-malika-favre/
Marni. (2015).Runway . Available at: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2015-ready-to-wear/marni
Marni. (2018).Runway . Available at: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2018-ready-to-wear/marni
朱页臻 . (2017). 欧洲意大利玻璃首饰 . Available at: https://zhuanlan.zhihu.com/p/29724195 报告!收获一枚可爱的 MARNI 少女张雪迎 .(2018).Available at: http://fashion.cosmopolitan.com.cn/2018/0225/261241.shtml
154 DRØMMER OM (ENDNU) EN MARNI TRUNK.(2017).Available at: http://whittaheart.dk/2017/05/droemmer-om-endnu-en-marni-trunk/ Mia Gardner.All about Marni.(2017).The underground, funky and quirky, Italian luxury fashion brand.Available at: http://www.coturesocial. com/2017/09/26/all-about-marni-the-underground-funky-and-quirky-italian-luxury-fashion-brand/ Marni(2019).Available at: http://www.marni.com/es/cazadora_cod41728523wh.html HOLLY RHUE(2018).See All the Best Fall 2018 Fashion Campaigns Dior taps Jennifer Lawrence, Miu Miu explores the swinging '60s, and more. Available at: https://www.elle.com/fashion/g22157219/fall-2018-fashion-campaigns/ WEIBO(2018).Available at: https://www.weibo.com/officialmarni?sudaref=www.google.it&display=0&retcode=6102&nick=MARNI&is_hot=1 Charles Purdy.(2016).THE BOLD, CHEEKY, AND FREQUENTLY NSFW ART OF MALIKA FAVRE.Available at: https://create.adobe.com/2016/4/1/ the_bold_cheeky_and_frequently_nsfw_art_of_malika_favre.html Art Direction by Giovanni Bianco for Marni’s Fall/Winter 2015 Campaign.(2015).Available at: https://cxainc.com/edition/giovanni-bianco-artdirected-the-marni-fallwinter-2015-campaign/ Lucy Davies.(2013).Inside Roy Lichtenstein's studio.Available at: https://www.telegraph.co.uk/culture/art/art-features/9836421/Inside-RoyLichtensteins-studio.html ODDA magazine(2015).Available at: https://www.synchrodogs.com/MARNI Rob Alderson.(2014).Inside Roy Lichtenstein's studio.Available at: https://www.itsnicethat.com/articles/malika-favre-illustrated-journey Marni.Available at: https://www.pinterest.com/archyves/artiste-malika-favre/?lp=true M. Dhani (2016), Consuelo Castiglioni leaves Marni, [online] available at: https://fashionista.com/2016/10/consuelo-castiglioni-leaves-marni, [accessed 3 August 2018] B. Carreon (2011), Marni for H&M collaboration for spring 2012, [online] available at: https://www.forbes.com/sites/bluecarreon/2011/11/29/ marni-for-hm-collaboration-for-spring-2012/#2ccddc885e48, [accessed 15 June 2018] N. Atwood (2013), The scent of Marni: Italian label launches his first fragrance, [online] available at: https://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/ fashion/features/the-scent-of-marni-italian-label-launches-its-first-fragrance-8488893.html, [accessed 10 June 2018] Marni, [online] available at: https://www.thecut.com/fashion/designers/marni/ [accessed 8 August 2018] Marni women’s collection, [online] available at: https://web.archive.org/web/20090404135024/http://www.style.com/fashionshows/ designerdirectory/MARNI/seasons, [accessed 28 June 2018]
155 Marni men’s collection, [online] avail at: https://web.archive.org/web/20090228062319/http://men.style.com/fashion/designerdirectory/ MARNIMEN/seasons/, [accessed 3 July 2018] Vogue Runway, [online] available at: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/designer/marni, [accessed 5 September 2018] C. I. Gable, Murano Magic: Complete Guide to Venetian Glass, its History and Artists (Schiffer, 2004), p. 44 The History of the 20th Century Murano Glass Making, [online] available at: https://www.muranoglassitaly.com/the-history-of-the-20thcentury-murano-glass-making/, [accessed 7 September 2018] E. D’ambrosio (2017) , Chi è Matilda De Angelis protagonista di “Veloce come il vento”, [online] available at: https://www.donnaglamour.it/ matilda-de-angelis-protagonista-veloce-vento/guide-2/, [accessed 2 September 2018] Hawkings (2015),Carlotta Manaigo turns to the clashing styles of a modern Sicilian saint’s day, [online] available at: https://www.itsnicethat.com/articles/carlotta-manaigo, [accessed 3 September 2018] Carlotta Manaigo. com, [online] available at: http://carlottamanaigo.com/, [accessed 4 September 2018] YouNutsProd.com, [online] available at: http://www.younutsprod.com/ [accessed 4 September 2018] Video Advertising for the H&M’s collection, directed by Sofia Coppola: https://youtu.be/iPoqyCzSc-w 2000 Fall-Winter fashion show: https://youtu.be/Wp_lPRIGI9A 2003 Spring-Summer fashion show: https://youtu.be/acFFF23UH9Q 2010 Fall-Winter Adv Campaing: https://youtu.be/RFrdnX7HBFs 2011 Fall-Winter fashion show: https://youtu.be/5gvm0F-Mi7Y Marni Fragrance Commercial: https://youtu.be/V36gy31kAnM Video Advertising for the H&M’s collection, directed by Sofia Coppola: https://youtu.be/iPoqyCzSc-w 2014 Fall-winter fashion show menswear: https://youtu.be/XezBcvWC9_s 2015 Spring-Summer fashion show: https://youtu.be/1kmOWg6U2Dw 2016 Fall-Winter fashion show: https://youtu.be/CDU13YaQrbs 2017 F/W Adv Campaingn: Marni Advertising Campaign Fall/Winter 2017, a film by Michael Hauptman https://youtu.be/lz8-RgQueA4
156 2018 S/S Adv Campaign: https://youtu.be/l1DLp_HJp28 2018 Fall-Winter fashion show: https://youtu.be/45YzKeiJjBY 2019 Spring-Summer fashion show menswear: https://youtu.be/IIbsxTiKRtM Marni.com, [online] available at: http://www.marni.com/experience/en/event/, [accessed 4 June 2018] The essence of Marni, [online] available at: http://www.marni.com/experience/en/essence-marni/ [accessed 26 July 2018] Thegiornalisti - "FelicitĂ puttana" https://youtu.be/WK5JqexMznc