T R O P E R D N E R T 2 AW1
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Company scours the catwalks for the BIG trends for next season.
AW12/13 relies on construction and fine details of clothing for maximum impact. The feeling of opulence on designer catwalks is classy and reserved as we move away from a period that craved fun, flamboyancy and in-yourface flaunting.
Similarly, a bunched or pleated waistline secured with some sort of rope belt, as used by CSM graduate Phoebe English, highlights the area in the most flattering way. Waist belts at Dior and McQueen both exaggerate the figure and suck in the middle. Worn over outwear, they can draw a combination together and stop any figure being swamped by SHAPE&STYLE the season’s shapeless coats and capes. Manipulating the silhouette Waist down, full, A-line is the key to skirts were seen on the next season with runways of Dior and particular focus on have made a permanent CW: Lanvin, the waistline. We’re re-appearance. Waist Christopher Kane, straying away from up, there is yet more McQeen, Dior. the androgyny of play on shape with over seasons gone by with the top shoulders and elements of male sleeves. Broad shoulders and female definition with waist belts contrast creeping back in, masculine and feminine. sometimes Seasonal style sways towards contrasting, a more demure and covered up sometimes stance. This AW we are being ladies. complimenting. Necklines are high and reserved, Peplums are the structured and statuesque. From fundamental feature for frilllong collars to sweeping cowl necks seekers in AW12/13. The or simply straight, revealing less is flap of material at the more. base of a jacket, top of a waistband or mid-point of a dress not only COLOURS draws attention to the waistline but also accentuates sexy, feminine hip The colour palette is rich and typically curves. autumnal with dark brooding purples, reds and browns through to deep teals, blues and
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Photographs: www.style.com (for the purpose of example)
trend report greens at the colder end of the spectrum. These regal colours, in particular purple, are prompted in part by royal events such as the Diamond Jubilee and the patriotism felt from the Olympics. Christopher Kane’s runway was engulfed by purple, right down to the catwalk, whilst Jonathan Saunders’ captured the key colours in a holographic print. There were hints of monochrome within several collections including Mugler, D&G and CSM’s Craig Green and the high street is currently a vision of Beetlejuice stripes due to carry over to next season. MATERIAL
L-R: Dior, Louis Vuitton. Alberta Ferreti
trumped by Chanel’s gem covered eyebrows. Brocade has been a leading trend in SS12 and transfers into AW12/13. The raised finish, usually created with silver or gold thread, imitates luxurious tapestry and adds a subtle twinkle. C
Luxury materials such as leather, sequins, fur and tulle and those with metallic finishes are, instead of engrossing the whole outfit, now accents. Added in panelling or sections to augment affluence to classic yet basic pieces. Leather was a key inflection to Dior’s collection although it steers away from the Gagaesque fetishism of yester season. Leather belts and SARA DARLING @disorderfashion accessories are enough to “oooh....reckon i’ll be going for checks, lace and feathers! create a luxury feel. Similarly And some over the elbow leather gloves” with fur, an outer-garment or winter accessory, a la Alberta SAFFRON HUNT @saffers Ferreti, is an indulgent finish. “Mix contemporary patterns with neutral classics”
STYLIST SAYS:
DETAILS Jewel encrusting is a huge trend but, like leather, it’s toning down from the attention seeking, loud bling to a more subtle sparkle or oversized collection of juicy jewels. Louis Vuitton’s iridescent and encrusted items were nearly
TIM BITICI @timBitici “Umm..Peplum, Leather, Bold floral prints, Militant yet feminine, Futuristic, Metallics, Tailored suiting, lots of fur + slouchy” OLIVER GLASS @OLIVER_GLASS “Discover the world. Kaleidoscope. Baroque style. Victorian. Romance + sex. Long hair. Black is taking vacations #GLASSTRENDS”
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