SOUTHAMPTON SOLENT UNIVERSITY FCIS BA (HONS) MAGAZINE JOURNALISM & FEATURE WRITING MAY 2012 HELEN ARCHARD THE CUT MAGAZINE RACHEL LAMB 2ND MAY 2012
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EDITOR’S LETTER Welcome! I am pleased to introduce you to the first edition of The Cut, the trend analysis and future fashion publication for industry professionals and obsessives.
This issue is dedicated to the growing trend effecting every sector. From production to distribution, it’s about making fashion ethical. The industry is going green so prepare for a real push towards sustainability such as eco-friendly fabrics, ethical working conditions, recycling and upcycling. The shield is down and consumers are more conscientious about who made their clothes, what they are made from and where they were made.
Our in-depth feature on page 24 will give you an insight into the ethical fashion industry with information from industry body, the Ethical Fashion Forum. On page 27 we spoke to eco-luxe brand owner, Minna Hepburn, about why labelling yourself as ethical can actually cause problems and we continue on page 28 with Junky Styling giving us a guide to upcycling.
The Cut has Central Saint Martins’ Louise Wilson on board for the first The Cut Interview on page 14 and we meet two of her 2012 graduates on page 17.
Another star maker, nurturing the next generation of stylists, is Alex Longmore who discusses her Style School on page 18. The Cut is passionate about new, upcoming talent and these ladies are key players in developing a strong industry of the future.
The team and I hope you enjoy this launch issue and would appreciate any feedback. Email me at EDITOR@THECUTMAG.CO.UK with what you’ve liked as well as what you haven’t so we can give you a resource you will love.
TRENDWATCH: AW12/13 WOMENSWEAR AW12/13 is on the horizon and the Trendwatch guide will prepare you for the all important waistlines, lavish panelling and prominent purples of the coming season.
SUMMARY AW12/13 relies on the construction and fine details of clothing to create impact. The feeling of opulence on designer catwalks is classy and reserved as we move away from a period that craved fun, flamboyancy and flaunting apparel.
There is a strong sense of the Victorian era, in particular high necklines and full skirts seen in Viktor and Rolf’s pre-collection. The Edwardian period also nudges into Marc Jacob’s fairytale catwalk with that eye-catching footwear.
There is, of course, and inevitable, Olympics influenced, sports-luxe trend, the aftermath of which will spill into AW12/13.
Utilitarian/uniformed trends, routed from international conflicts, mirrors continued military presence. Tommy Hilfiger produced army style coats whilst Victoria Beckham’s structured uniforms were regimented.
Finally, another noticeable undertone was religious iconography and the prominent influence of religious uniform. There was headwear reminiscent of the burka and long gowns like those of priests and vicars in many collections including the Central Saint Martins’ MA catwalk.
SHAPE&STYLE Manipulation of the silhouette is the key to next season with meticulous focus on the waistline. In decade that has dominated by androgyny, elements of male and female autonomy are creeping back, sometimes contrasting and sometimes complementing.
Peplums are the fundamental feature for frill-seekers this AW12/13. The flap of material at the base of a jacket, top of a waistband or mid-point of a dress not only draws attention to the waistline but also accentuates the feminine hip curves. A similar tactic, used by CSM graduate Phoebe English, is a bunched or pleated waistline secured with some sort of rope belt. This flattering style creates texture which blurs any midriff definition and has a slimming effect whilst still highlighting the area.
Waist belts at Dior and McQueen both exaggerate and create a focal point Worn over outwear, they can draw a combination together and stop any figure being swamped by the season’s shapeless coats and capes.
Although it’s all about the midway point, what is happening above and below is just as interesting. Waist down, full, A-line skirts were seen on the runways of Dior and have made a permanent re-appearance. Wide, flared bottoms on trouser and skirts show exaggerated form whilst, yet again, emphasising the middle focal point. Gareth Pugh brought the flare into the coats of his space age collection.
Waist up, there is yet more play on shape with over the top shoulder and sleeves. Stella McCartney teamed broad shoulders with waist belts to contrast masculine and feminine. Wide and sharp or rounded and shapely, it could be time to dust off those shoulder pads again.
Seasonal style sways towards a more demure and covered up stance. Necklines are high and reserved, structured and statuesque. From long collars to sweeping cowl necks or simply straight, revealing less is more.
COLOURS The colour palette is rich and typically autumnal with dark brooding purples, reds and browns through to deep teals, blues and greens at the colder end of the spectrum. These regal colours, in particular purple, are prompted in part by royal events such as the Diamond Jubilee and the patriotism felt from the Olympics. Similarly, the wedding of William and Kate last year saw even greater impact on our industry. Christopher Kane’s runway was engulfed
by purple, right down to the catwalk, whilst Jonathan Saunders’ captured the key colours in a holographic print.
There were hints of monochrome within several collections including Mugler, D&G and CSM’s Craig Green. The white and black resonates ideas of moving from a dark period of troubled recession and war into a hopefully lighter future.
MATERIAL Luxury materials such as leather, sequins, fur and tulle and those with metallic finishes are, instead of engrossing the whole outfit, now accents. Added in panelling or sections to augment affluence to classic yet basic pieces.
Leather was a key accent to Dior’s collection although it steers away from the fetishist feel of yester season. Leather belts and accessories would suffice in incorporating the luxury feel. Similarly with fur, an outer-garment or winter accessory, a la Alberta Ferreti, is an indulgent finish.
Traditional autumnal knitwear is head to toe at Mulberry who also turned chunky knit scarves tucked into a waist belt to create an interesting way to wear the traditional accessory.
DETAIL, PATTERN & PRINT Brocade has been a leading trend in SS12 and transfers into AW12/13. The raised finish, usually created with silver or gold thread, looks like luxurious tapestry and adds a twinkle in a subtle, less garish way.
Jewel encrusting is a further trend but, like leather, it’s toning down from the attention seeking, loud bling to a more subtle sparkle or oversized collection of juicy jewels. Eye aching gems featuring in the last few years have been linked to the economic crisis and the desperation to imitate wealth. The Edwardian shoes at Marc Jacobs and Louis Vuitton’s iridescent and encrusted items were nearly trumped by Chanel’s gem covered eyebrows.
People hide their tight purse strings with stereotypical ideals of wealth such as big jewels, metallics and fur. Buying into this image satisfies consumer want and removes from the reality of the situation whilst creating the illusion of wealth.
STYLIST SAYS:
SARA DARLING @disorderfashion “oooh....reckon i'll be going for checks, lace and feathers! And some over the elbow leather gloves”
SAFFRON HUNT @saffers “Mix contemporary patterns with neutral classics”
TIM BITICI @timBitici “Umm..Peplum, Leather, Bold floral prints, Militant yet feminine, Futuristic, Metallics, Tailored suiting, lots of fur + slouchy”
OLIVER GLASS @OLIVER_GLASS “Discover the world. Kaleidoscope. Baroque style. Victorian. Romance + sex. Long hair. Black is taking vacations #GLASSTRENDS”
ETHICAL SPECIAL: FASHION MAKES GREEN THE NEW BLACK… Consumers with a conscience have triggered the latest trend in ethical fashion with brands, retailers and designers adopting flecks of green within their business models. The Cut has dedicated the launch issue to this movement and Helen Archard reports below.
For an industry whose ethical stance is still at the seedling stage, fashion is gradually embracing all things green with trade shows, exhibits and brands committing to products with standards.
2012 will see a surge in high end and high street fashion with an even higher moral stance. There should be at least one tick on the ethical checklist which includes supporting worker’s rights, animal rights, ethical production and manufacture, low carbon footprints, recycling or upcycling and even collaborations with charities and organisations. This is not just a trend; it’s a permanent change in our industry which everyone should take note of.
Consumer spending on eco-friendly goods and services has increased by 18% in the last two years, according to the Ethical Fashion Forum’s 2011 market report, with ethical personal products increasing most rapidly by 29% and accounting for £1.8billion. Consumers are now caring a lot more about where their clothing is coming from.
Well recognised designers such as Stella McCartney and Katherine Hamnett, hold environmentally friendly, ethical fashion close to their brand hearts, whilst on the Great British High Street, Topshop and H&M have brought out their own ranges. Spanning from top end to bottom end retailers, we are also seeing a rise in independent brands and designers sporting the same code. Although a lot of the action needs to be taken at design and buying level, it ripples into every area of the creative and promotional process.
Labelling something ethical, fair-trade or eco-friendly doesn’t always scream visually glamorous. What springs to mind is an outdoor photo-shoot and ‘getting back to nature’ hippy vibe. Designers create the product in line with the standards; the challenge is to portray and sell them away from the stereotypical.
The main criteria and issues for ethical fashion include actively combating fast, cheap fashion and consumption; rights, conditions and pay of the 26.5 million global clothing and textiles workforce; using eco-friendly fabrics which haven’t been touched by pesticides or insecticides; recycling and energy efficiency; animal rights and practicing and promoting a sustainable fashion business.
The Ethical Fashion Forum is the official industry body dedicated to a sustainable future for fashion and covers burning issues around ethical and fair trading. The EFF is a valuable website for all fashion professionals, and offers 3 programmes to provide resources, advice and contacts for press, buyers, designers to the whole spectrum of industry sectors. The Connect programme instigates networking between all its members, the Source programme includes the Source Expo trade shows for ethical sourcing and manufacturers whilst the Excel programme supports fashion businesses to combine the ethical and commercial.
London Fashion Week’s Estethica initiative, now in its 6th year at Somerset House, is where the latest talents in ethical fashion are scouted. Caroline Rush, CEO of its founders, the British Fashion Council, said: “Estethica is regarded in both the UK and internationally as a leading showcase in ethical fashion.” Sponsored by Monsoon since 2007, Estethica showcases ready-to-wear, accessory, jewellery and lingerie designers who, along with cutting edge products, commit to working in a sustainable way.
At street level, charity and vintage shopping have become hotspots for finding on trend bargains whilst upcycling brands, such as Junky Styling and From Somewhere, produce wondrous new creations from old wardrobe clutter or excess materials. These consumer trends will reduce the amount of clothing filling up landfill sites which, in 2005, hit 1.2million tonnes.
In the future we can also expect to see brands taking back their old used products to recycle the materials used into new designs or other products. This has already seen at Nike with their reuse-a-shoe campaign and now Marks & Spencer have just launch their ‘shwopping’ incentive to bring in any old clothing items when shopping for new ones.
Alongside the peak of ethical fashion hierarchy are the upcoming eco-brands whose creations would not look out of place amongst those of the fashion kings and queens. Here’s a selection of The Cut’s most interesting ethical brands…
EDUN Formed by Ali Hewson and Bono in 2005 and with LVMH holding a 49% stake in it from 2009, Edun is a highly credible ethical clothing company. Building bridges with trading in Africa and sourcing from other countries including Peru, Tunisia, Tanzania, Kenya, Madagascar, Morocco and China, the brand promotes positive change to set example to other fashion brands. http://www.edun.com/
STELLA MCCARTNEY Arguably the most mainstream ethically valued fashion designer, Stella McCartney produces ready-to-wear, accessories, kids and lingerie collections as well as collections for Adidas. The vegetarian designer is a strong animal rights activist and doesn’t use fur or leather in any of her designs. From the production techniques to recycling within the stores and offices, Stella McCartney Ltd even uses biodegradable corn shipping bags. Its stores in London, New York, Los Angeles, Tokyo, Hong Kong, Paris and Milan take fashion with morals worldwide. www.stellamccartney.com
KATHARINE HAMNETT Katharine Hamnett, the pioneer of eighties slogan protest t-shirts, created a brand with both political and ethical message. Her ‘Choose Life’ tees were iconic to the decade and her designs have not only actively raised awareness of political issues but also industry concerns particularly around cotton production. Her 2004 line, Katharine E Hamnett contained the E
for products produced as ethically and environmentally friendly as physically possible. For 2012’s climate week, Katharine has teamed up with the Environmental Justice Foundation to produce their ‘Save the Future’ slogan tee to be retailed at H&M http://www.katharinehamnett.com/Biography
THE PEOPLE TREE The People Tree meet the World Fair Trade Organisation’s guidelines by working with 50 countries in over 15 different countries at every stage of the creation and production process to ensure maximum benefits worldwide with minimal environmental impact. With a range by Emma Watson and the rising profile of ethical clothing, The People Tree’s turnover increased by 17% in 2010. http://www.peopletree.co.uk/
FROM SOMEWHERE This label, headed by curators of the Estethica showcase at LFW, Orsola de Castro and Fillipo Ricci, has been creating clothing using pre-consumer luxury designer proofs, off-cuts, swatches, end of rolls to create beautiful, unique and quality designs. Another brand reacting to fast fashion and the high waste of the industry. http://fromsomewhere.co.uk/
MINNA: WHY BEING ETHICAL SHOULDN’T AFFECT YOUR BRAND The owner of the prestigious ethical brand, Minna, tells us why she won’t let the term define her label and that fashion always comes first.
“Ethical can be a negative term. The retailers and press love it but it has got to be the product that sells,” begins Finnish designer Minna Hepburn, founder of eco-luxe label Minna.
She has a point. The words ‘ethical’ and ‘sustainable’ conjure up images of monotonous design and unflattering shape only justified because of their good moral fibre. Even though there is so much quality, interesting and on trend design, which is still in keeping with ethical guidelines, this area of the market hasn’t yet fully shifted the sturdy misconception.
“A lot of the Fashion Week designers are ethical but they’re not shouting about it. Ethical shouldn’t be the selling point it should just be part of your brand,” she says.
Minna falls under the category of ethical fashion due to their general use of locally sourced fabrics, reducing the carbon footprint, plus ethical production, manufacture and recycling. However, she is passionate that that is not all the label is about. “Fashion brands should be fashion led, fashion focused and, above all, commercial,” Minna continues.
As we’ve shown you in this issue, the attitude of the market and consumers are changing and Minna agrees. “Consumers are beginning to think about how harmful the clothing industry is and how disposable it is,” she says. “It should be about educating the consumer and what they’re interested in is how they can dress well and be ethical at the same time.”
Minna is stocked worldwide as well as widely online showing that a brand with an ethical base need not stick to a niche market.
Before launching her eponymous label in 2008, Minna experienced the fast fashion phenomenon first hand with a concession at Topshop that gave her an insight into how disposable fashion can be.
The Minna brand was born after she found some antique lace at a market and traced it back to Scotland to the manufacturing company. In this romantic tale, this fabric has inspired their future collections and the manufacturers have worked closely with their collaborations. “I wanted to focus on building a brand and something that hasn’t been done before. I have a niche product and strong customer base,” said Minna.
Strong in both bridal and childrenswear markets, Minna is growing as an all over lifestyle brand. Popular amongst the press, Minna’s products feature in consumer glossies like Vogue, Elle, Red and Cosmopolitan. Minna also won the Elle Style Awards 2011 in Finland.
For more information, visit http://www.minna.co.uk
MOST PINTERESTING The social media site has created a visual frenzy within industry and, if utilised correctly, can be a highly beneficial tool.
It’s the love child of social media favourites Tumblr, Flickr and Twitter better known as Pinterest. As you are already aware, Pinterest is the hottest social media site around as well as a vital industry resource.
With moodboards being such a valuable tool within all creative industries, Pinterest bridges a digital gap for the technique. Founded in 2012, the site already has over 10 million registered users and hit 10 million unique monthly US visitors quicker than any other website.
Other than being as addictive as Twitter and Facebook, Pinterest can be used just as wisely for creative professionals and many brands are building it into their marketing plans.
Pinterest is another open window into the minds of the consumer. It offers on a plate people’s thoughts about what they like and want. This can be exploited and analysed, especially well in trend forecasting, and build up a consumer profile. Mashable.com’s survey shows that 68.2% of the audience are female and 27.4% of members are aged 25-34 so it’s even more beneficial if this is your target market.
On a business level, it’s another way to enforce a strong online presence which is crucial to any business or professional. As Pinterest is all about the visual, the site is the perfect platform for photographers, stylists, designers and anyone else with a visual product to filter their work into the public domain.
Pinterest does state it’s not designed for self-promotion but there are tactical ways to get your image seen and many brands and retailers have used it for this advantage. The site links the images to it’s original source and that in itself can significantly increase external
website traffic. The web of sharing helps to gain recognition to an audience who normally may not see your work. Just by creating a profile and sharing a mixture of your work and other relative images will encourage followers from a broad target market.
On a personal level it is a highly useful tool to log your creative process. You can convey this to others and communicate your inspiration, products, services and brand. This can work for brands and designers to back up their seasonal collections and fashion stories. It’s another way to target the consumer and offer them more.
So, will ‘check out my Pinterest’ become the new ‘Follow me on Twitter’? Visit www.pinterest.com to find out.
THE CUT’S PEOPLE OF PINTEREST… P.S – I Made This pinterest.com/psimadethis Followers: 11790 Boards: 29 Pins: 1220 Best Board: P.S I Made This DIYS I’m Revolting pinterest.com/imrevolting Followers: 204797 Boards: 9 Pins: 8936 Best Board: Style Icons & Type Kate Spade New York pinterest.com/katespadeny Followers: 31494 Boards: 8 Pins: 1784
Best Board: Live colourfully – year of color &Live colourfully – year of pattern Etsy pinterest.com/etsy Followers: 68634 Boards: 22 Pins: 1096 Best Board: Cool Spaces Jen Djula pinterest.com/jendjula Followers: 494 Boards: 42 Pins: 1453 Best Board: Upcycled and recycled
SOURCE SPOT: BEYOND RETRO Whether it’s something special for a shoot or a unique prop there are plenty of Aladdin’s caves, bursting with hidden gems. This issue’s source spot is vintage legend, Beyond Retro. Beginning life in a disused dairy in East London nearly a decade ago, Beyond Retro, is on the brink of global notoriety, taking the energy of the capital’s vintage fashion scene with it. Offering the cream of the crop to consumers, industry, press and top trendsetters, this multiple is a market leader and engulfs a lifestyle with its strong sense of London. The eclectic brand commands high media attention with fashion focused celebrity shoppers including Florence Welch, Alexa Chung, Pete Doherty and Paloma Faith and it’s one off pieces regularly seen adding a touch of classic to press editorial shoots. The original concept was created by a Canadian couple who fell in love with London and opened the original Brick Lane site. Having since expanded across the city to open stores in Dalston and Soho, plus further East in Brighton, BR have also taken off internationally in Sweden. Now a honey pot for trendsetters, BR’s brand image screams individuality and it is this which makes it a prime location for sourcing items for professional and personal use. Every exquisite piece is shipped in from the USA and out of every 500 items, only one reaches their stores to ensure that only the best vintage items are presented. “The details, shapes and prints are so unique that you’ll be lucky to find them anywhere else,” they said. “Each customer and staff member get excited about all sorts of things instore, whether it’s product, our displays or even Tiny the cat from our Brick Lane store.” It would seem people agree as they also told us: “We’ve had many trendsetters through our doors. There’s a really diverse range of customers, from Nick Cave to Dita von Teese and Rihanna. Each of which emulate the spirit of Beyond Retro in their own individual way.” This shopping experience keeps the customer happy and the sturdy relationship with the media proves beneficial to all parties. The company continues to source original wares and
kickstart trends by keeping in-tune with our surroundings. “Each of our stores is led by instinctive fashion forecasting and staffed by creative individuals which has helped propel our status as a major player for British fashion and affirms our store as a must-see destination.” Vintage fashion correlates with trends which are inspired by classic looks and items of different eras. Beyond Retro’s stock provide a wide selection of items allowing customers to pull together their own looks and own interpretations of trends without dictating to them what to wear as with a lot of high street retailers. “We saw lots of ’50s America for SS12, particularly with shows like Prada, Dolce & Gabbana and Miu Miu, so we’re very much looking forward to this. Our current shop display theme is Walk Like An Egyptian which is our own take on the Great Gatsby inspired ‘20s trend, which designers like Ralph Lauren and Gucci have for their collections this season.” Channelling all areas of the Hipster spectrum, and so much more than a mere vintage store, Beyond Retro moulds into its surroundings and most importantly its customers with in-store events and music tailored to the location. This multi-platform approach defines a brand and is echoed by other national retailers such as All Saints and Urban Outfitters. “Our aim is to ensure that every visit is as memorable to customers as possible,” they said. Vintage fashion has boomed in the last decade and the recycling of trends as well as items is contributing to the campaign for an ethical industry. Stores like Beyond Retro are at the forefront of the vintage movement and are actively pro-sustainable fashion. “We believe that all resources must be utilised in order to encourage and promote sustainability.” Their own range, Beyond Retro MADE, captures their sustainable morals and channels the popular upcycling trend to both an in store and online consumer. “These collections concentrate on a combination of vintage aesthetics with innovative designs,” said BR. “ They are brought to you by sourcing classic textiles that channel their essence into new and exciting garments.” Noting the change in consumer behaviour, BR said: “those who shop for vintage, particularly those who enjoy the Beyond Retro MADE collection, are mostly interested in the quality and
design of clothes as it becomes increasingly difficult to find reasonably priced, good quality clothing.” As well as its UK presence, Beyond Retro have expanded into the Swedish market which seems like an unusual choice for a first international development. The overseas journey, which has developed four stores in the country, came about as “a product of a Swedish native in London, who adored the shop so much that she wanted to take in home with her!” BR told us. Sweden’s fashion forward fans embrace the vintage vibe as much as here in the UK. “The big trends there differ to those in the UK,” they said. “For us, this makes for a really interesting dynamic that is always exciting to learn from.” From spending so much time with their heads in fashion past, Beyond Retro peer into their future plans and vintage world domination. Now they have conquered the UK and won the heart of Sweden, they hope to venture beyond Europe and over to the United States. In particular, their sights are set on fashion capital New York where they can nuzzle in between the kooky boutiques and massive department stores. This year will be big for this source spot as a whole as they celebrate their 10th birthday with heaps of activities and special products planned. For more information and for press enquiries, visit www.beyondretro.com
FUTURE FOCUS: SS13 WOMENSWEAR Peering into the future of SS13, it is shimmery and bright. We see the tight constraints of yonder year gradually easing, clearly shown by the loose, floaty shapes which are key to this season’s garment design and styling.
AW12/13 bleeds into the summer season which will also be merged with strong echoes of SS12. The Cut predicts light is the key to this season. Reflecting off metallic, jewels and iridescent materials; refracting in zigzag geometric patterns whilst being absorbed in monochrome contrasts and bright colours.
It’s a transitional period between a time of hardship and a brighter future. According to WGSN predictions, in 2013 the consumer’s priorities lie in desirable reality as opposed to the fairytale, romantic fantasy we’ve become accustomed to. There is less need for escapism in fashion as consuming becomes a more wary but pleasurable pastime. The customer wants to be awed by products hence the regal, opulent detailing of embellishment and brocade.
The idea of taking classic shapes and basic pieces and then making them luxury through details and finishes carries forth to the summer. Metallic coatings on denim and iridescent and sheer panelling tie this into the aquatic theme of last year.
The hemlines will seem to waiver between midi and maxi again showing a certain cautiousness at settling in to a zone of extravagance. Trousers in particular are wide legged and baggy showing this relaxing nature. Dresses and skirts will be loose and flowing yet with still focus on femininity and that waist. Sheer, tulle fabrics, teased in AW12/13, add to this feminine feel.
Patterns and detailing can expect to be bold, bright and shiny with lots of fruity jewels and metallic accents. There is a certain Spanish feel with folk patterns and bright on black floral.
Staple colours are verdant green and cyclamen pink with black and white monochrome as anchor shades.
The UK’s largest active apparel and street wear trend forecasting company, Mudpie, have set their Creative Vision for SS13 which fall under three areas: New Renaissance, Avant Garde and Modern Artisan.
WHERE ARE THEY NOW… Here are a few classic items at different stages of their fashion cycle. There’s a couple we should be seeing again in the not too distant future and some still stuck at ‘disgusting’ status for the time being.
NEONS Glow sticks, plastic beads, boob tubes and bodycon. As we slip out of the clutches or war and repression we will be seeing a lot of 60s and 90s post-war era influences. The psychedelic tie-dyes of the 1960s and the raver era of the 1990s are to be kept to mind and have already been evident on catwalks for SS12. This time around, we’re looking at classy accents and patterns of recent years or blocked with neutral colours, more chic than club night.
PLATFORM SHOES Platforms have been prominent throughout ancient history. Their reign as a fashion statement was dominant in the 60s and 70s. Synonymous with the Glam Rock movement they were worn by males and females alike. In more recent times, the platform has been reintroduced into shoe design in the form of skyscraper platform heels as opposed to a full platform sole. The late 90s with the Spice Girls also brought them back.
FACIAL HAIR Beards and moustaches have not merely been appearing for charity events although it has helped boost the prominence and acceptance of facial hair. Facial hair tends to be a reaction. A reaction against androgyny and to show masculinity; a reaction against recession for extra warmth or lack of funds to purchase razors and, by default, a reaction indicating crisis. Periods of war and military action tend to trigger a clean shaven look in unison with soldiers. A man’s facial hair is a built in accessory.
TRILBY HATS The trilby hat has always been a symbol of individuality. Its fashion cycle spins violently from unique, cool and hipster to chavvy and cheap. Recently, the trilby has become popular among subcultures with celebrities such as Pete Doherty idolised by ‘indie hipsters’. As society starts to feel an ease of independence, rather than a need to huddle together for safety and protection, the trilby should reappear in a matter of years. The trilby’s summer straw cousin has become a timeless accessory for the festival season. Customisation of this with flowers, feathers, ribbons and beads can tie it closer to the season’s specific colours.
LEGWARMERS The icon of the 80s and films like Flashdance and Fame these accessories reappear every decade or so. Favoured by the rave and free party scene complementing clubwear in garish neons, leg warmers have popped up in a more subtle nude and tan at the beginning of the decade. Overtaken by tights and knee high socks for Autumn/Winter accessories, they don’t look too far away but not quite on the trend horizon. Last year and the previous year saw the boot warmer introduced which looks deceptively like a mini-leg warmers
CSM’S FASHION FUTURE The Central Saint Martin’s MA Catwalk is one of the most anticipated of Fashion Week where industry experts absorb the collections of the institution’s freshest graduates. For 2012, the catwalk debuted much promise. Two standout students were Luke Brooks and Craig Green who were joint winners of the L’Oreal Professionel Creative Award.
LUKE BROOKS Knitwear student, Luke Brooks opened the 2012 show with a procession of paint splattered creations, statement headpieces and distressed knits. Attention to detail was paid from top to bottom with models walked his grungy, woven work in fringed loafers and ambiguous head decoration hovered above their heads.
The 25-year-old channelled inspiration from the Olympics into his MA runway collection with an iconic headdress fashioned into the shape of the Olympic rings, a piece which has been at the forefront of all reports of the show. As well as this timely piece, his other standout items included a paper bag-esque tunic teamed with ‘god’ headpiece
Chloe Award Winner and receiver of the AHRC bursary Brooks applied for CSM from secondary school, coaxed in by the texture and smell of the prospectus brochure.
In an interview with Central Saint Martin’s fashion blog, 1granary.com, Brooks said: “The fashion industry was not something I had ever actively thought about being involved in prior to trying out fashion on the foundation. I was an enthusiastic fashion consumer as a child and teen.”
Describing his creative process producing his MA collection he said: “I treated each item as a thing in and about itself and avoided thinking how they might go together or how to explain it all.” For Brooks, the course developed not only his skills but also him as a person and designer. He said: “There are all sorts of internal and personal realisations that are results of interactions with everybody involved in the course.”
CRAIG GREEN Throughout both BA and MA collections, Green has experimented with extreme shape and structure and a love of monochrome and block colouring.
His 2012 MA Menswear collection played with 3D, geometric shapes and pentagonal structures. With minimalist tunics, reminiscent of religious or medical uniform, he created walking silhouettes down the runway with infusions of blocked tie-dye.
His influence from cults and sects and inspiration from the Village of the Damned (1960) created a hint of darkness to this collection. Light and Dark, shadows and projection plus his use of mouth bondage all contributed to this contrasting collection. Every white outfit had an identical black outfit following it like a shadow and the tie-dye created the illusion of light projecting from within the clothing as if possessed.
In an interview with 1granary.com, CSM’s student run fashion blog, Green said: “Every week of the MA had fun and difficult parts, all at the same time. So we could say that the entire thing was the most fun and most difficult thing I’ve ever done.”
Green began on a foundation course at Saint Martins in the hope of becoming a portrait painter. He made the transition into fashion via the BA and then MA Fashion course. His graduate collection played with fringing, braiding and plaiting, foam tubing and balls and rubber boots to create primary shaped robot like costume. The consistency within his CSM collections pulls together a strong, striking portfolio.
Before his MA he interned at Walter van Beirendonk in Antwerp and Henrik Vibskov and also received 1st prize in the New Era XC Competition 2010 for his fringed reinterpretation of the baseball cap. He also produced comb headdresses for Christopher Shannon’s SS12 and denim patchwork for Topman 2009.
For more information on Craig Green visit craig-green.com
BEHIND THE LENS: MALIA JAMES As if looking back through the misty haze of memory, Malia James, photographer, director and musician, seizes the precious moments of life, love and music.
Los Angeles based photographer, director and musician; Malia James is a capturer of moments, nature and the natural. Her photos and films are of those snippets in time, those emotions, those smiles you could never fully recreate. The stolen kisses and out of frame looks.
As well as a photographer Malia crafts in the medium of film, creating short sequences, music videos and documenting bands and events on the road. A third string to her bow, which is also a clear passion and influence in all her work, is her music where she is a member of the Dum Dum Girls. “Each of my loves- music, photography, and directing- speak to my needs as an artist in different ways. Music is such an incredible release and nothing compares to the exchange of energy with an audience,” she said.
Her relationship with the camera blossomed at age nine on a trip to Los Angeles and Disneyland with her grandfather. “I shot something like 15 rolls of film and I remember the photos being very advanced for my age. You could see I was observing the world around me- even at that age,” she said. Studying it further at school at age 15, she took her skill into her own hands through her college days in Boston where her current creative direction was already beginning to show.
Although not defined as fashion photographer, Malia’s style of creating warm, nostalgic images is one to be admired. Her skill of creating an intimacy with fragments of time is much to be desired in fashion editorial. Malia said: “For me it is, in any way, capturing a moment or a mood. Some photos take you to a time and a place- something very specific. Other times, it's more of a feeling.
“Paul Jasmin once said to me ‘Just shoot your life. Document it all.’” She continued. “I think that was the best advice anyone ever gave me. Shoot and keep shooting. Capture your life
because it's always passing you by and it'll never be the same as it is now. Worry about whether people like it later on.”
The 31-year-old, Texas born snapper takes further inspiration from photographers such as Joel Sternfeld, Gregory Crewdson, Larry Clark, Phillip Lorca D-Corcia. The themes are enhanced by the comfort of nostalgic familiarity. “Photography has also been my way of collecting the memories of my life, which are my most treasured possession,” she said.
Malia is regarded highly in the market and, having worked with the photographer, Stylist Saffron Hunt said: “She is a great photographer who sees almost everything in the same way as me, creating evocative images with stunning simplicity.”
Malia’s kit includes an impressive array of equipment including a Contax 645, Contax T3, Contax G2, Nikon D700, Cannon 5D, Fuji 645, Polaroids and some toy cameras. As far as tricks of the trade go, she sticks to classic photo editing software to touch up her photos saying: “I, like most, live and die by Photoshop. I haven't gotten into Lightroom or any of the digital programs though I'm sure they'd make my life a lot easier.”
To date, she has taken on the role of director for several projects. She was responsible for music videos for Black Rebel Motorcycle Club, David Lynch as well as her own band, Dum Dum Girls. She covered the Converse Power of the Riff Festival and filmed Darker My Love for the indie music series Dirty Laundry. Malia told us: “I feel directing was always what I was meant to do and photography has helped me develop my eye for that.” Directors such as Lynne Ramsay, Kubrik, Hitchcock, Coen Brothers and Sofia Coppola inspire her film work.
Malia’s 2012 is packed full of photo, film and band commitments with Dum Dum Girls playing the festivals this summer and her current work in progress which are a series of short films for the new Black Rebel Motorcycle Club. Further in the future, her plans are to: “Direct films, publish photo books, create album covers, tour the world, write music, fall in love, make a few babies, buy a house near water, travel as much as possible.” Blissful.
To keep up to date with Malia James’s work visit: http://maliajames.com/
STYLIST SAYS London based freelance stylist, Alexis Knox is famed for her work on and off the camera. Her expertise have been vital in TV appearances on Britain’s Next Top Model and T4’s New Look Styles the Nation and her editorial styling has graced the pages of a multitude of publications, including Notion magazine where she is Fashion Director. She is heavily involved in the worldwide events including the international Fashion Weeks and The Clothes Show Live. With all this experience under her belt, who better than to give us some hints? Alexis lets The Cut in on three of her top photographers to work with.
Mark Cant The established fashion photographer has taken his high school hobby into an international career. Born in London he started working with some of the biggest names in contemporary fashion photography including Craig McDean, Sølve Sundsbø, Alix Malka & David Sims. His portfolio boasts clients such as L’Oreal, Victoria Beckham’s dVb and Pull & Bear. He’s shot stars of the stage, screen and music industry and worldwide editorial for publications like Elle, Flair, Noi.se and Flaunt. www.markcant.com
ALEXIS SAYS: The nicest man in fashion. He just 'gets' ideas, no need for bull, one or two sentences and he understands even the most random styling concept. He’s also great with models and makes shooting anything fun and easy.
Elliot Morgan At 21 years old, Elliot has already totted up a phenomenal CV. He’s worked with some of popular culture’s biggest names in music, TV and film including Example, Rupert Grint, The Vaccines and Labrinth as well as massive clients SYCO, Polydor and Interscope. Elliot’s work has been published in the national glossies, broadsheets, and specialist fashion publications. His film work has involved music videos for Cher Lloyd and One Direction. www.elliott-morgan.com
ALEXIS SAYS: Super sweet, super talented and making massive waves in the photographic world. He adds a sense of romance and the cinematic to a lot of the work we do together.
Alis Pelleschi Alis is a London based photographer, filmmaker, stylist and BA Visual Communications (Photography) Graduate. Her electric, psychedelic photos and portraits have been published in Bullett, Glamour, Grungecake, Honk, i-D, Notion, NYLON Japan, NYLON Mexico, Spindle, SUPER SUPER! and Vice. In 2011 she was a finalist for the Photographer's Gallery’s Fresh Faced and Wild Eyed Competition as well as phase two finalist for New Era Introducing. http://alispelleschi.com/
ALEXIS SAYS: GIRL POWER TO THE MAX! A fellow Taurean, she is equally as passionate and ambitious as myself. She has a great vision and is always pushing concepts to be bigger and bolder. I love her art direction and the freedom she gives me as a stylist.
STYLE SCHOOL With 15 years industry experience, top UK fashion stylist Alex Longmore has taken on the task of shaping the stylists of the future.
Challenging institutions and colleges, Alex has started Style School which offers short courses to start people off in their stylist career by sharing insider knowledge and hands on experience. “Being a fashion stylist is like being a mechanic you have to learn on the job so you need to get as much experience as possible and build up your contacts,” she said. “I really strongly feel that fashion colleges are not the way to get into the industry,” and continues that gaining the experience and contacts are much more valuable.
Background and Experience Styling was her career choice from the tender age of 8 but she said: “I kind of didn’t know how to get into it because in those days it was quite a niche job and people didn’t know much about it”
After studying Art History at University she pursued work experience at Company magazine before being put in touch with the Daily Mail who made her Fashion Secretary and worked her way up to Style Editor.
After 7 years at the newspaper and a bursting book of contacts, she decided to work as a freelance stylist. “I decided I really want to do a variety of jobs and I’d hit a wall with the Mail so I went freelance and it’s been great being freelance because you work for yourself,” she said.
Her clients have included Harrods, Blackberry, Lulu Guiness and Jemma Kidd Make up and she has styled and impressive array of celebrities from royalty like Zara Philips to the iconic Twiggy. Her favourite however is Julie Walters. “I absolutely love her she’s really funny incredibly professional and yeah she’s just amazing. There’s been loads of amazing celebrities but she really stands out,” she said.
Alex has worked with national and worldwide publications including consumer fashion bible, American Vogue as well as Harpers Bazaar, Tatler, FHM and Grazia to name but a few.
Style School The underlying message behind Alex’s Style School is accessibility and hands on experience. Welcoming students of all ages and background to the Central London location, they offer a 1 week introductory course or 6 week fashion diploma both covering the practical and creative process of the profession.
“I basically share all my inside knowledge and my tricks about styling. The main thing is after the course they get mentoring from me so we build CVs and I get out my contacts book.” Utilising her network, students gain access to visiting Fashion Editors, Buyers, Designers, Marketing Experts, Journalists, Models, Model Booker’s, Photographers and Bloggers. To ease style school graduates into industry they receive mentoring from Alex which helps to break down the barriers which can be faced when first starting out. “It’s like they’re mini mes going out into the industry,” she laughed.
The school has helped land fresh industry hopefuls a place in their dream jobs or just to realise their dreams. “What I try and do is that everyone who walks through that door on their first day is a fashion assistant I like to treat everyone as if they have started in the industry.”
Styling Advice With such a vast background in styling and considered a key player in the industry, Alex is quick to offer her pearls of wisdom. “Never say you can deliver something when you can’t. If you can’t get them a Julian MacDonald sparkling dress when you can’t then that’s the biggest biggest thing not to do,” she advises. “Always have a really well equipped kit bag and don’t be afraid of making mistakes. If you put an outfit on someone and you think it looks wrong have conviction and say it’s not working or you don’t think it works and try something else.”
Building up relationships with PRs who will be in charge of lending you the samples and making sure you research the fashion story and audience are the essential basics to being professional. “If you’re photographing for a magazine like Easy Living and you put them in clothes like someone who would be in ID it’s not going to work,” she said.
There’s a chance you’ll get your own insight into Style School in the not too distant future as Alex plans to take it to the small screen and make a television series. There could also be a book in the pipeline but these projects are still waiting to come into fruition.
For more information on Alex visit www.alexlongmore.co.uk and to check out the Style School visit www.styleschool.co.uk