Rvikliv13 web

A GUIDE TO RESTAURANTS, CULTURE AND TRAVEL IN ICELAND 2013

We only provide new cars Always fairly priced

WE WILL PICK YOU UP AT YOUR HOTEL OR GUESTHOUSE Tel.: +354 554 6040 | atak@atak.is | www.atak.is

your partner in airport transfers between reykjavík & Keflavík Airport

Fast, frequent & on schedule every day of the week The Flybus operates in connection with all arriving and departing flights at reykjavík KEF International Airport and your seat is always guaranteed.

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Free WiFi Hotspot on board our coaches.

For our flexible schedule scan the QR code

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BSÍ Bus Terminal • 101 Reykjavík

580 5400 • www.re.is • www.flybus.is

rElAX AT

Facts about the Blue Lagoon: The lagoon holds 6 million liters of geothermal seawater which is renewed every 40 hours.

It is rich in minerals, silica and algae.

The water´s temperature is 37-39°C/98-102°F.

the Blue lagoon There is no better way to start or end your Iceland adventure than by bathing in the famous Blue Lagoon.

Reykjavik Excursions offer great flexibility in Blue Lagoon tours.

After having enjoyed all that the Blue Lagoon has to offer you can either return to Keflavík Airport or be brought onwards to Reykjavík.

For our very flexible schedule please consult our brochures.

EXPO · www.expo.is

wE‘ll TAKE yOu ThErE! BSÍ Bus Terminal 101 Reykjavík 580 5400 main@re.is • www.re.is

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wE’ll TAKE yOu ThErE! All ThE mOsT EXcITIng PlAcEs In IcElAnd

Book noW at your reception

EXPErIEncE A grEAT dAy wITh us!

More Tours available in our brochures

and on ouR WeBsiTe WWW.Re.is

by calling 580 5400

Free WiFi Hotspot on board our coaches.

BSÍ Bus Terminal 101 Reykjavík 580 5400 main@re.is www.re.is

on www.re.is

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REYKJAVÍK living 3

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Reykjavík Center Map. This interactive web site features a detailed and accurate pen and ink drawing of the oldest part of Reykjavík.

Explore the city centre and enjoy great art in a fantastic map produced by Borgarmynd architects. Check it out at www.reykjavikcentermap.com

INDEX

Akranes

IN HIS PRIME - Sigmundur Davíð Gunnlaugsson...... 15 OUR QUEEN OF CRIME - Yrsa Sigurðardóttir.......... 12 THE MULTITASKING MAYOR - Jón Gnarr............... 16

Reykjavík

Garður Sandgerði Reykjanesbær

GEYSIR FASHION DESIGNER - Erna Einarsdóttir..... 26

Vogar

Grindavík

BLESSED BY FORTUNE - Kristinn Sigmundsson..... 109 WESTFJORDS.......................................................... 80 EAST ICELAND........................................................ 84

Westfjords

SOUTH ICELAND.................................................... 90 NORTH ICELAND................................................. 112 WEST ICELAND..................................................... 118

Hafnarfjörður Hveragerði Árborg Þorlákshöfn Eyrarbakki and Stokkseyri

North Iceland

West Iceland

East Iceland

Vestmanna­ eyjar

South Iceland

Credits 2013 FULLT HÚS PUBLISHING Ei›ism‡ri 14a 170, Seltjarnarnes, Iceland Tel: +354 692 1400 E-mail: mar@mar.is www.reykjavikliving.is

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Editor Súsanna Svavarsdóttir susannasvava@simnet.is Sales and marketing Erna Sigmundsdóttir Tel: +354 821 2755 E-mail: reykjavkl@gmail.com

Cover photos Bragi Þór Jósefsson www.bragi.is Ingolfur Arnarsson: arctic-images.com

Design and Art Direction Hugverkasmi›jan - Helgi Sig Tel: +354 551 9424 E-mail: helgi@art.is Printing Oddi ehf.

Proof reading Jess Bygd

ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. Neither this publication nor any part of it may reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior of Fullt hús publishing. Fullt hús publishing takes no responsibility for errors and changes.

ICELANDIC WOOL

WORN OUT FOR CENTURIES We of fer clot h i n g & ot her mer ch a nd i s e t h at r em i nd s u s of go o d old Ic el a nd

REYKJAVÍK living 5 – V i sit ou r s t or e s : 101 R e y k ja v í k , A k u r e y r i a nd G e y si r, H au k a d a l . w w w. g e y si r. net –

Sigurður Jarl Magnússon: www.flickr.com/photos/jarl/

Welcome to Iceland Whether you‘ve visited us before or this is your first visit, we would like you to enjoy yourself thoroughly.

Reykjavík Living is designed to tell you about some of the elements most treasured by the Icelanders themselves. In order to make most of your stay, we introduce some of our most pretigious artists and designers, shops offering Icelandic designs, hotels and restaurants we favour, as well as giving you insights into our politics by interviewing our very likable mayor and our young Prime Minister.

Living in Iceland is a bit of an adventure – and it is often difficult for the Icelanders to stay away from the island. Those who go abroad for their studies, usually return home to make the community richer by their knowledge and those who live abroad, spend most of their holidays in Iceland. There is something magical, even addictive about the island.

nights during summer and the northern lights during long, dark winters. It is a restless soul, with strong undercurrents of creativity. It is a happy soul and a brooding one. It is hot and cold. All at the same time.

Which possibly explains the endurance of the islanders through the centuries.

Iceland is no toyland. It makes and breaks by shear force of nature. We might not always like it – but, love it we do.

We hope you enjoy reading about our country‘s nature and history, our arts and leisures, our hospitality and the endless possibilities to have a good time.

Most of all we hope you enjoy your stay.

The Icelandic soul much reflects the land itself, with constant earthquakes, active volcanoes and geothermal activity, with light

ISK 48.700

ERNA

YRSA Reykjavík

Gull-og silfursmiðjan Erna - Skipholt 3 - 105 Reykjavík - Tel. 552 0775 - www.erna.is

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Súsanna Svavarsdóttir, editor

Kraum, Aðalstræti 10 - www.kraum.is

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Sightseeing in Style Norðurflug Helicopter Tours offers a wonderful way to observe the diverse Icelandic nature

Have you ever had a dream of soaring through the skies like a bird, having a look at the world from another perspective, getting close to the volcano craters without getting burned, or near enough to a waterfall to enjoy its power without getting wet, and glide over glaciers to truly appreciate its magnificent immensity without getting cold.

To really appreciate the diversity of the Icelandic landscape a helicopter ride is the answer. It is quite a thrill, actually. A land created by the forces of fire and molded by magnificent ice, it displays all the colours of the palette and more. But, to truly appreciate it, your best choice is to get airborne. Not least because of the possibility of getting really close to lava formations, glacier landscape, dive into valleys and craters. You will feel your stomach jump, but no worries, these are no daredevils.

Norðurflug Helicopter Tours has specialized in just such sightseeing tours. With its experienced pilots, Norðurflug offers to turn your vacation into an extraordinary adventure. In spite of dives and close-ups, the flight is smooth and pleasant.

Easy access Based at Reykjavík‘s Domestic Airport, just a few minutes drive from the city centre, Noðurflug caters to a range of corporate, international and domestic travellers. Their aircraft are available for charter by the hour, on a daily basis or for a longer periods of time by agreement – and to any destination within Iceland.

If you do not have the time or opportunity to drive north, west, east – or into the highlands – to enjoy the different areas of Iceland, it is easy enough to rent a helicopter to take you there.

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The service provided by the friendly staff at Norðurflug Helicopter Tours is excellent. Tell them what you want to experience and they will plan an unforgettable tour for you and your family/friends, employees or co-workers.

Experienced and reliable This experienced company offers a variety of services, be it Movie and Photography flights, Sightseeing Tours of Iceland, Passenger flights, Sling flights, or Inspection and Measurement flights. Indeed, the company derives much of its experience from flying Icelandic and foreign film-crews during the years even in precarious situations – and are exceptionally reliable.

The company‘s fleet is comprised of various helicopters; AS365N Dauphin, accommodating eight passengers, AS 350 B2 Ecureuil – Astar, with room for five passengers and Bell 206 Jetranger, for up to four passengers. See more at www.heli.is ■

B O S S

K O N U R

M E N N

K R I N G L U N N I

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Fresh and Fun The classy Kronkron is like a candy store when it comes to clothes One of the most popular stores in Reykjavík for the young – and young at heart – is the fabulous Kronkron on Laugavegur 63. It is trendy and offers endless possibilities for those who like creating their own style, matching and mixing exceptional pieces. Be it dresses, tops, skirts, trousers or shoes, which inludes a georgeous line of the owners‘ design.

breathing fresh air in a world of neutrality; a world where you are not supposed to stand out or be noticed. Kronkron tells you otherwise. It makes you want to be noticed for your exceptional personal style. It is like visiting a candy factory filled with all the sweetest tastes you love.

The owners, Hugrún Árnadóttir and Magni Þorsteinsson, opened their first shop, Kron in 2000, the second shop, KronKron in 2004, launched their first shoe line in 2008 and their very own clothes line in 2010. Every time their vision became an instant hit.

The shoes, Kron by Kronkron, are designed by the owners, as mentioned before. Hugrún graduated as a fashion designer in 2000 from Studio Bercot in Paris and Magni graduated as a hairstylist in 1998. When those two ultra creative forces met, their different backgrounds fused together in a unique way. Their vision was clear from the start and their exceptional shoes were instantly the hottest item in town.

Oozing joy They had started out with a few up and coming designers like Marjan Pejoski, later adding Eley Kishimoto, Roksanda Ilincic and Henrik Vibskov. The space allowed for further additions to the already great labels and Hugrún and Magni have since added Vivienne Westwood, Sonia Rykiel, Marc by Marc Jacobs and Bernhard Wilhelm – and lately Acne, Peter Jensen and Opening Ceremony.

Upon entering Kronkron, one can not help becoming happy.

It oozes joy and is awash with colours and designs. It is like

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Two creative forces

Their customers wanted more. They wanted apparel to match their shoes. They wanted more color, more variations, more possibilities to create their own style. Thus, Hugrún and Magni took their design further and created their own line in clothing.

The Kron by Kronkron label was born and has been welcomed as warmly a the shoe line by the young, the creative, the fun-loving and the joyous. ■

Opening Hours Mon-Thu. 10-18 Fri. 10-18.30 Sat. 10-17 Sun. 12-17 (June / July / August)

KRON | Laugavegur 48 | 101 Reykjavik | Tel. 551 8388 | www.kron.is

REYKJAVĂ?K living 13 KronKron | Laugavegur 63b | 101 Reykjavik | Tel. 562 8388 | webstore: kronkron.com

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In His Prime Sigmundur Davíð Gunnlaugsson leads the new Icelandic Government into the future For decades Iceland has been run by the cold-war generation, but in the spring of 2013 the islanders had had enough.

Following the economic crisis in 2008 the nation had lost faith in those who had got it into the mess and failed to get it out of it.

It was time for new solutions, a new approach, a new generation.

The big-time winner of the elction was the Progressive Party with their young and charismatic leader at the helm. At the age of 38, Sigmundur Davíð Gunnlaugsson is now Iceland‘s Prime Minister. And it hasn‘t really come as a surprise. He is easy going and friendly, contemplative and shrewd. He thinks before he speaks, is a hard worker and not particularly attention-seeking.

Yet, noticed and listened to wherever he goes. He is married with a one year old daughter and says becoming a father changed his political approach considerably.

University of Oxford to write his thesis on the economics of urban development, in Russia and Eastern Europe. Combined in his studies were economics, politics and history.

When asked why his childhood ambitions changed, he says he didn‘t find politics appealing anymore. „I found politics to be too flawed and things didn‘t seem to work as they should. The system was too ineffective.“

Five years ago Iceland‘s new leader was working on his doctoral thesis at the University of Oxford. He had always been interested in politics but made up his mind never to venture into that particular field. It was actually a turnaround from former ambitions, as when asked at the age of five what he wanted to become when he grew up, Sigmundur answered quite unabashedly: „The Prime Minister.“

Then came the economic crisis. As fate would have it, this young, well-educated man had a lot to say on the matter and started writing articles, speaking officially and expressing his concerns. „So much changed here during the crash,“ he says, „I expected the problem to start with the housing market which would lead to the banks collapsing, much as happened in Ireland.

And indeed, I was quite appalled by the way a lot of things were handled in Iceland. When offered to enter into politics in the afthermath of the crash, I realized I might as well. If I didn‘t rise to the opportunity, I would only waste my time on being angry at how things were being handled. It was a lot more sensible to offer my time and effort to establishing a prosperous future for my people.“

When everything changed

A fateful phone-call

The years passed and after working for the Icelandic State Television for a number of years, Sigmundur‘s views changed.

He decided on an academic career and completed a BA degree in economics from the University of Iceland, stayed in Moscow for a year studying urban development and then enrolled at the

When asked how he happened into politics, the Prime Minister replies: „It was rather strange, actually. In December 2008 I was on a holiday in Stockholm with my wife, when I received a phone-call from a man I had never met. He was living in the east part of Iceland and asked me to come for a visit to discuss REYKJAVÍK living 15

politics. I told him I couldn‘t as I was in Sweden but we decided to be in touch when I returned to Iceland. And when I came back to Iceland, he phoned me again.

He told me he was part of a group which had met a few times to discuss the situation and they didn‘t much like it. The big Progressive Party congress was approaching and they wanted to discuss their ideas for my future there. I told him it was utterly unrealistic, still after chatting to him for a while I agreed to visit them to discuss my take on what was happening to our community.

Next thing I know, I am on a flight to Egilsstaðir to what I thought would be a cup of coffee with four men to discuss issues and dilemmas. They picked me up at the airport and took me on a road trip around the Eastfjords. In the evening we ended up in a small conference hall in Egilsstaðir with about fifty people in attendance. They pointed to the podium and told me to make a speech on the future of the Progressive Party and my views on the future of Iceland. There was no getting out of this situation, so I decided I‘d better make a speech and be done with it, after which I returned home to Reykjavík. A few days later they phoned me to tell me the meeting had concluded that I should be the their next party leader. Well, first I obviously had to join the Progressive Party. I wasn‘t even a party member.

What really changed my mind towards joining politics were those people in the east. They were a group of individuals concerned about our community and willing to contribute their time and effort towards making it better. They had a vision and were determined to follow it through. They considered it their duty.“ 16 REYKJAVÍK living

Joining the Party What followed was two weeks of campaigning for the chairmanship of the Progressive Party. After beating his opponents he returned home where congratulatory flower bouquets awaited him from leaders of all the other political parties. „A few short moments I searched for a bouquet from the leader of the party I was going to work for, until I realized – oh, that‘s me. Everything had happened so fast.“ Fast indeed. Barely five years later he is the Prime Minister. With a four-year term serving as a Member of Parliament behind him he says politics has not disappointed him. „Of course the political field is quite flawed,“ he says, „but I already knew that fact as I had always followed politics keenly. I realize quite a lot of people beome disillusioned about politics upon entering the field and it is quite understandable. It all boils down to expectations – and I came prepared.“ Expectations indeed. And now a whole nation is, of course, expecting a miracle from their new PM, quite forgetting he is only human and politics is a tricky and treacherous field. But, Sigmundur is not overly worried about those expectations. He is here to do his best.

Opportunities and assets „Iceland has exceptional natural resources,“ he says, „and my party has put a lot of work into mapping the country from the point of view of renewable energy. The possibilities are vast and our aim is diversity. It goes without saying, our aim has to be guided by the green agenda every step of they way.

I had a visit from Norwegian producers of E-cars. They found Iceland to be the ideal place for producing electric cars. Our

PIPAR \ TBWA •

SÍA •

101733

Icecold

Inspired by Icelandic nature As a year-round landscape the glaciers and the ice shape the Icelandic soul, same as the contradicting volcanoes and hot springs.

Those are the contending forces that combine in the unique ICECOLD range. The ICECOLD founder and lead designer, Jón Sigurjónsson, draws his inspiration from the country’s diverse images, from those quiet peaceful winter mornings to the glaciers’ bellowing groans as they crack under the great forces of nature. Sigurjónsson brings out the beauty of the contradictions as the ICECOLD shapes and textures mimic the Icelandic nature, a bit rough but with a hint of softness here and there.

One of the largest jewellery businesses in Iceland, Jón & Óskar has set the standard for fine Icelandic jewellery making since 1971 when its first store opened in downtown Reykjavik. As well as the famous ICECOLD range, the stores also offer a wide range of top branded watches and imported and Icelandic gift items.

Available in Jón & Óskar stores, Laugavegur 61, Kringlan mall, Smáralind mall.

Tel. +354 552 4910 // www.jonogoskar.is // info@jonogoskar.is

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Sigmundur Davið with two of his newly appointed ministers, Sigurður Ingi Jóhannsson and Eygló Harðardóttir.

The future Today, Iceland has an new generation of leaders. Not only the PM, but leaders of nearly all the political parties. When Sigmundur, quite the political animal from childhood, is asked if he is detecting changes in political attitudes, he claims he certainly is. „I know the leaders of the other political parties personally. After the 2013 elections I met up with each one of them for discussions. They all expressed a desire to change Icelandic politics into a field of co-operation. They all want to work towards solutions instead of working towards creating frictions.

Of course, we will not agree on everything and we don‘t expect to. We are all aware of that fact – and that is the biggest change in Icelandic politics.“ A parliament with largely young and younger middle-aged members has a lot of future to think about. Most of them have young children and the PM himself has a one-year-old daughter. clean energy would be the right source to produce eco-friendly cars. And due to changes in climate and transport, Iceland‘s global position has now become an asset.

We should absolutely use Iceland‘s image as an eco-friendly country to aim at eco-friendly products. We should increase our green-house industry to produce more food. There is no reason why we shouldn‘t be self-sufficient in producing vegetables, for example. In fact, a group of representatives from green-house farmers in the Netherlands visited Iceland a while ago. They had this idea of building enormous green-houses for exporting vegetables from Iceland. It is only one sample of our possibilities and it is the government‘s duty to realize those possibilities. Of course, it doesn‘t come cheap but we must consider the bigger picture. Increasing food pruduction provides jobs and saves money in the long run and is altogether fiscally sensible. The high price of electricity to green-house farmers has indeed been a problem for a number of years and changing it should be a governmental task.“

„It was so exciting to be expecting my first child. Still, I was worried about losing interest in everything else, including my political passion, once she was born. But, the opposite happened. Her birth re-enforced me. I realized wholeheartedly how important it was to lay stable and safe foundations for the future generations.

Politics are not just here and now. Politics are about building a future. Becoming a father was a great reminder of that duty.“ So, what about the future of Iceland? „I am quite optimistic on Iceland‘s future if we realize our opportunities and approach them sensibly. Our country has immense natural resources and we are just starting to develop them. A small nation with all these opportunities, it should be obvious there is enough for everyone. We should all be able to prosper.

It is only a question of working sensibly towards our aims. I am certainly going to stay firm in my belief that we will succeed in creating the values we need to enjoy a comfortable life here in Iceland.“ ■

The Saga Bracelet One of Iceland´s most famous artists from the 20th century, Ríkarður Jónsson, designed the Saga Bracelet, inspired by Njáls Saga. Njáls Saga, considered the finest of the Icelandic sagas, is an epic story written in the 13th century.

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Karl Guðmundsson, a famous wood engraver who had been a pupil of Ríkarður Jónsson, made the prototype of the bracelet which has been made up to this day. The Saga Bracelet´s historical roots run deep thru the rich soil of Icelandic culture; exquisite, timeless jewelry.

Gull-og silfursmiðjan Erna - Skipholt 3 - 105 Reykjavík - Tel. 552 0775 - www.erna.is

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Kraum, Aðalstræti 10 - www.kraum.is

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MADE IN ICELAND JS Watch co. Reykjavik is a small Icelandic watch manufacturer whose exceptional timepieces promise to put the country on the map for something other than hot springs, Bjork and disruptive volcanoes.

Icelandic Ingenuity

The collaboration of a watchmaker, collector and designer has produced the JS Watch co. Reykjavik, one of the world’s smallest manufacturers of stylish, quality watches. Is JS Watch co. Reykjavik, from the middle of the Atlantic Ocean, one of the watch industries best kept secret?

All the watches are designed and assembled by hand in Iceland. Only highest quality movements and materials are used to produce the watches and every single detail has been given the time needed for perfection. The quantity of watches produced is limited, giving them an exclusive and truly personal feel.

Currently the watches are being worn on many celebrity wrists such as Viggo Mortensen, Quentin Tarantino and his holiness 14th Dalai Lama to name just a few.

Meet the watchmaker

The JS Watch co. Watch factory and exclusive retail shop located at Laugavegur 62, in the trendy “101” area of Reykjavik provides customers with unique opportunity to meet the watchmakers who assemble and test their timepiece. Quality control is administrated by Master Watchmaker Gilbert O. Gudjonsson who is one of Iceland’s best known watchmakers and has more than 40 years of experience.

If you are interested in unique Icelandic design stop by and have a look at the JS Watch co. Reykjavik collection of quality mechanical timepieces.

Gilbert ‘O Guðjónsson Master watchmaker, Laugvegur 62 tel + (354) 551 4100, www.gilbert.is or www.jswatch.com

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Our Master Watchmaker never loses his concentration With his legendary concentration and 45 years of experience our Master Watchmaker ensures that we take our waterproofing rather seriously. Gilbert O. Gudjonsson, our Master Watchmaker and renowned craftsman, inspects every single timepiece before it leaves our workshop. As a privately owned and operated company, we have the opportunity and duty to give all our timepieces the personal attention they deserve.

www.jswatch.com

REYKJAVĂ?K living 21

We only provide new cars Always fairly priced

WE WILL PICK YOU UP AT YOUR HOTEL OR GUESTHOUSE

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Be Safe Enjoy Your Journey Hire a brand new car at a moment‘s notice Do you have a day or two to spare or is there a place in Iceland you have always wanted to visit?

If so, Átak Car Rental is the place to call. Established in 1979, Átak is one of Iceland‘s most respectable car rental companies, proven by years of serving insurance companies and visitors. Átak Car Rental is minutes away from the centre of Reykavík and offers a free shuttle service to their office to collect your car.

Big or small Átak only has new cars for hire and renew their fleet every year.

Whether you want to roam around the city and its neighbouring areas to visit the variety of interesting museums, admire the architecture, go swimming, or alternatively travel to the countryside and the highlands to take in the breathtaking landscapes and spectacular sunsets, Átak has the right car for you.

Photos: Bragi Þór Jósefsson - www.bragi.is

Vehicles available range from small and medium sized cars to nine seater transporters to large jeeps including Landrover Discovery and Range Rover jeeps.

Now is the time It doesn´t matter if you haven‘t booked a car prior to your visit to Iceland, Átak always has cars available and can pick you up at a moments notice. Átak also provides any extra equipment you might need for your car, such as baby seats, maps, GPS, trailer, or a roof box. All available to make your stay in Iceland more memorable. ■

Iceland has plenty of places to visit, such as Geysir and Gullfoss, the Blue Lagoon, the black sand beaches of Vík and the glacial lagoon at Jökulsárlón. Whatever your needs, Átak can assist you and providing an excellent service is their priority.

living 23 International Airport | Smiðjuvegur 1 | Reykjavík | Tel.: +354 554 6040 | atak@atak.isREYKJAVÍK | www.atak.is

Keflavík

#Iceland

Excursions Free Wi-Fi

ONBOARD

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#GrayLine Iceland

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Heritage for Urban Living Erna Einarsdóttir is the new fashion and textile designer for Geysir

From Amsterdam to London, to Paris, the young and exceptionally talented fashion designer, Erna Einarsdottir, has returned home. After working for Yves St. Laurent in Paris she has accepted the post of head-designer for Geysir – the prominent Icelandic design company offering beautiful apparel for those living life to the fullest.

Contemporary urban lifestyle erupting from Icelandic tradition is the direction Erna is taking, Modernizing the old Icelandic lambswool heritage has long been her dream and, indeed, was the basis for her masters degree graduation collection from Central St. Martin in London. Her innovation caught the attention of Yves St. Laurent designers who promptly offered her a position on their designer team. Erna‘s second line will be a completely new and trendy way to work with the Icelandic heritage.

With an MA degree in fashion design with emphasis on textiles there is no limit to her possibilities.

To Yves St. Laurent After completing her BA degree in fashion design from Gerrit Rietveld Academie and MA degree from Central St. Martin in London, Erna says she was quite unsure of the future. „I was preparing myself for returning to Iceland to join a number of wonderful designers struggling to make a name for themselves here. Sadly, there are such few production companies offering full-time positions to designers in Iceland so if you want to work in the clothing industry, it‘s almost like your only option is to start your own company, and that is not an easy task, it´s not something everyone can simply throw themselves into.“ When offered a position with Yves St. Laurent, Erna says she was quite taken aback. „It was both thrilling and a bit scary. I 26 REYKJAVÍK living

didn‘t know what to expect. I didn‘t have a clue as to how such a huge company operated. I had never even been to Paris. Yves St. Laurent was going through drastic changes at the time. A new head designer had been hired and I was to join his design team.

This was huge.“ For a girl from Iceland, with huge talent and passion for fashion and textiles, the fashion industry in Paris is part of another planet. During her studies Erna says it never ever occured to her she would be given the chance to work at a company like Yves St. Laurent. „I was certain I was heading back to Iceland and that was really what I wanted to do after spending many years abroad during my studies – and decided it was the perfect time for having a baby before starting my struggle here.“

Inside a faraway world But, Paris it was. „It was a great opportunity, the kind that you can‘t say no to“ Erna says. „and I got to know how such a prominent company works and what it was like to be a part of their designer team. What really surprised me was what a small world the fashion business in Paris is and how few top designers are calling the shots. While growing up in Iceland it had always seemd such a huge and faraway world where people led an altogether different lifestyle. It is, of course, amazing to get a job at a respected fashion house, but when you‘re there, you‘re a small part of a large production with a very specific job, much different from being in school where you are in control of your work and involved in the whole design process.

I really enjoyed my time in Paris. My co-workers were very nice, wich made all the difference since I knew no one in Paris and I was pregnant, another new experience. At the job I found it very

interesting to be able to observe the photoshoots, the design process, the preperations for the shows and learning how such a big company works.

I also loved working with quality fabrics and being able to get the fabrics that I needed so I could design the right things the way they should look. If I wanted ten metres of high quality silk to work with, that‘s what I got, which was quite a change from my student days of counting coins and working with cheap and crappy fabrics, trying to make them work.“

The great opportunity Then came the job offer from Geysir, a small company in Iceland. The audacity one would be tempted to think, offering a designer working for Yves St. Laurent a job with an unknown company. But Erna was of a different mind. She was delighted. „I realized this was an excellent opportunity. Here, I was being offered to build up and develop their production lines from the very start,to use my innovation and visions, design the clothes and choose the fabrics. I get to work with everything I spent a lot of time and money to learn and develop. I really liked the company, their future vision and their design aesthetics coincided with mine. Geysir has already gained an excellent reputation in Iceland, offering beautiful quality clothing.

And I get to live in Iceland Until recently, the fashion and clothing design business in Iceland has been somewhat uncertain but nowadays a number of very prominent companies are breaking through. The number of positions for fashion and textile designers are increasing and I am excited about taking part in developing the future of clothing lines based on our heritage. Clothing for urban and out-

doors activities. I want the fashion and textile designs to have a future in Iceland. We shouldn‘t have to live abroad in order to make use of our education and work with what we love. And our heritage is yet a relatively unploughed field.“

Missing the little things I have been wanting to move back home to Iceland for a very long time. I moved to the US with my family when I was seventeen, but came back to Iceland for two years before moving to Amsterdam. I spent four years in Holland, three in London – and then Paris. I´ve been moving around a lot so I am truly happy to be back home. It is such a privilege to be able to pick up the phone to meet lifelong friends at a café „right now“ or call my parents, to have dinner with my family whenever I like.

Everything is within reach in Iceland. It only takes a few minutes to drive out of the city to enjoy the great nature of Iceland, the silence, the tranquility, the clean air and freshness.

When you live abroad you soon realize it is those little things you miss the most, the simple things that make you feel you belong there. When you live in a foreign country it takes a while to get into the culture and understand how things work. I‘ve had to move away from each country just when I think I‘m getting it.

Returning home I was able relax again, I didn‘t have to try, I just got it.

The quality of life is very good in Iceland. I understand both culture and nature. I am in my elements.

I am Icelandic.“ ■

REYKJAVÍK living 27

you are invited to experience

unique icelandic art

at iceland’s oldest fine art gallery

28 REYKJAVĂ?K Imagineliving Peace Tower on the island Videy in Reykjavik

www.gallerilist.is

R E Y K J A V Í K

Skipholt 50a Tel 581 4020

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The Cultural Heritage The National Museum of Iceland tells the story of Iceland‘s history from settlement to present day The National Museum of Iceland was established in 1863. Until that time, Icelandic museum pieces had been preserved amongst Danish collections. The Museum displays objects that provide insight into Icelandic cultural history - exhibits that encourage visitors to dwell on the past, present and future. The museum aims to nurture knowledge and innovation while maintaining a wide perspective and sense of community.

Further, to commemorate the Museum‘s 150th anniversary, a new exhibition of Icelandic silverwork is to be found in the museum‘s Arc Hall. A collection of silver objects are on display with a focus on the methods used to create them. Included is a smaller exhibition, A Part-Time Silversmith where guests will be able to observe a silversmith‘s workshop from the turn of the century.

The role of the National Museum is varied, reflecting its legal obligation as national centre for the preservation and management of cultural heritage, cultural reaearch programmes and promulgation of knowledge and information which relates to the cultural heritage of the nation.

The artistic force

From open ships to aircrafts

Another commemorative exhibition is the Photoraphy of Sigfús Eymundsson, the pioneering photographer in Iceland.

Eymundsson‘s collection is of great importance to Icelanders, especially as they convey culture and way of life in times gone by, most certainly forgotten if not for his photos.

The Museum‘s permanent exhibition, Making of a Nation Heritage and History in Iceland, is intended to provide insight into the history of the Icelandic nation from settlement to the present day. The aim is to cast light on the Icelanders’ past by placing the cultural heritage preserved by the National Museum in a historical context, guided by the question: What makes a nation?

A third interesting exhibition marks the centennial of the founding of the Icelandic Handicraft Society. The Society‘s mission was to support Icelandic handicrafts and to help preserve ancient working practices, as well as foster their revival. Even today, the Society provides courses and instructions, source materials, as well as designed and constructed instruments such as looms.

The exhibition includes about 2,000 objects, dating from the Settlement Age to the present, as well as about 1,000 photographs from the 20th century. It is conceived as a journey through time: beginning with the ship in which medieval settlers crossed the ocean to their new home, ending in a modern airport, the Icelanders’ gateway to the world.

The National Museum of Iceland is quite interesting. Its objects and artefacts date all the way back to Iceland‘s settlement and thus it is a place to cast eyes on the island‘s history from the beginning. ■

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THE NATIONAL MUSEUM OF ICEL AND MAKING OF A NATION –HERITAGE AND HISTORY IN ICELAND

F í t o n / S Í A

The country´s largest museum of cultural history featuring a permanent exhibition on Iceland´s extraordinary history from settlement to present day.

www.natmus.is www.nationalmuseum.is Suðurgata Suðurgata 41 41 // 101 101 Reykjavík Reykjavík Tel. +354 530 2200 Tel. +354 530 2200

OPENING HOURS Summer (May-August): Daily 10–17 Guided tours in English Wednesdays, Saturdays and Sundays 11 a.m.

Winter (September-April): REYKJAVÍK living11–17 31 Daily except Mondays

Do it Your Way! Avis and Budget carhires offer a brand new device to enjoy travelling in Iceland even more My Way audio day tours are a completely new kind of sightseeing. You are in control of the schedule, the pace, what to see or explore, where stop and for how long. My Way is your own audio day tour consisting of a suitable car for you and your family or friends together with an audio guide programmed into the GPS system.

Mixing modern technology with traditional storytelling My Way audio day tours is a small GPS device that rides along with you in your car. It is programmed with geographic locations that recognises your position at any given time and plays audio specific to that location.

At your own leisure My Way commentary is an entertaining mix of interesting stories, facts and figures, history, geography, directions and curiosa.

It is like having a private guide in your car. One who is quite knowledgeable, loves telling stories, and can tell you everything you would like to know while driving along a specific route.

The device is joyfully simple to use. You just set it up in the car like a normal GPS navigation unit, turn it on – and voilá – you are on to a most eintertaining day, with stories and folklore, as well as, up-to-date information on sites and locations. You just have to drive, take in the scenery and points of interest. You can take as long a break as you wish to explore further everything that peaks your interest. You are not dependent on the points of interest a tour guide in a bus has pre-chosen and you don‘t need the consent of 50 to 100 co-travellers.

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At your service The commentary starts and stops by itself as the device always knows where you are!

You can leave the car and go for a walk, have lunch or just stop for a rest and it will automatically start up when you return to recommence your drive.

My Way is a unique method of travel for tourists in Iceland. It combines modern technology with traditional storytelling; the guide works by mapping the geographical locations of the traveller during selected self drive tours, and recognises the position of the traveller’s car at any given time. My Way then plays audio specific to that location, such as facts and figures, history, and geography.

My Way offers three different preprogramed tours: The Golden Circle tour; a South Shore tour; and the Reykjanes Peninsula All day tours are available in two languages, English and German.

For booking and additional information visit www.mywayiniceland.is

Reykjavik's Thermal Pools

*

e c r u o s A alth e h of

Th er m al sw im m in g po ol s

Hot t ubs and jacuzzi

*Admission January 2013. Price is subject to change

O N LY

k.

55AD0ULiTsS k.

130DiRsEN

Sa un as , steambaths an d sh ow ers

CHIL

For he al t h an d w el l-be in g

Se ve n lo ca t io ns

Op en ea rl y un t il la te

Thermal pools and ba baths s in Reykjavik are a so source of health health, relaxation a and d pureness pureness.

All of the city´s swimming pools have several hot pots with temperatures ranging from 37˚ to 42˚C (98˚–111˚F). The pools are kept at an average temperature of 29˚ C (84˚ F).

REYKJAVÍK 33 Tel: +354 411 5000 •living www.itr.is

The Creative Force Creativity has always been a rich part of life in Iceland. Being a remote island throughout the ages, the inhabitants had to make do with what was at hand to make their homes pleasant and functional; to have all tools they needed; to have clothes suited to all kinds of weather. And they made use of just anything. For example, driftwood and other material brought ashore by the big seas surrounding the island, animal bones and teeth, animal hides, stones, earth and of course, the sheep.

Knitting and wood-carving were favorite pastimes during the long, hard and dark winters. People would huddle together in their houses, tell stories or read them while working on something useful. Thus, creativity was a necessity and it took the

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Icelanders centuries to understand it as art. It was just something everybody did.

And, Icelanders are extremely creative with an amazingly large number of the population working as artists, designers, musicians, writers, film-makers and in the theatre. Also, being an ambitious and hard-working lot, they will not rest until they have something to show for their efforts. Quite often, tourists and other visitors ask how many millions are living on the island – and become baffled when told just over three hundred thousand. So much is going on all over the place. And, there is so much to show for it. â–

ICELANDIC WOOL DESIGN

REYKJAVÍK living 35

Bistro & Bar Aðalstræti 101REYKJAVÍK Reykjavík Tel: +354 517 TEL 4300 562 www.geysirbistrobar.is SHOP / WORKSHOPGeysir SKÓLAVÖRÐUSTÍGUR 6A 2 101 ICELAND 6999 / 698 3413 MARIALOVISA.COM

Wool from a Unique Breed The Icelandic wool has always enjoyed great popularity amongst Icelanders. It is exceptionally warm and water resistant. It was used for clothes-making by the island‘s settlers in 874 and is still the wool of choice for the knitting mothers, daughters, sisters and grandmothers in Iceland. The Icelandic Lopi heritage designs are known all over the world, especially the beautiful sweaters and cardigans – for men, women and children – the famous „Lopapeysa“.

The Icelandic sheep has been the key to the nation’s survival, providing generations of Icelanders not only with food but also with wool as protection from the biting cold of the harsh northern climate. It has been isolated – and thus protected – on the island since the Vikings brought this rugged breed over in the year 874. It has always maintained the same gene pool making its fleeces among the rarest in the world. The isolation has protected the purity of the strain.

Evolving over 1100 years of exposure to the sub-Arctic climate, the Icelandic wool consists of two types of fibres, coarse and fine – or inner and outer fibres. The coarse fibres are long, glossy, tough and water resistant, the fine fibres tend to be softer and more insulating, providing a high resistance to cold and possessing a unique texture and natural colors. Not only is Icelandic wool wonderfully light and flexible, but also tremendously warm. It is lightweight and highly water-repellent, with the fibres passing away from the skin, keeping you dry and comfortable.

Another striking characteristic of the Icelandic wool is its natural colours; white, grey, brown and black. Textile production techniques may have changed dramatically since the days of the early Viking settlers, but the commitment of Icelanders to quality and tradition has not.

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In our conservation-minded age, Icelandic wool is particularly appealing: it is a natural product created on environmentally friendly principles. Nature reigns supreme throughout the manufacturing process.

Only natural energy sources such as geo-thermal and hydroelectric power are used in production of Icelandic wool, while the sheep from which the wool is harvested still graze freely in summer, as they have always done, on vast tracts of virgin land.

The Icelandic wool quality symbol on a product guarantees that it is made out of genuine Icelandic wool. The wool is purchased directly from farmers and taken to sorting stations located around the country. There, it is graded by experts according to colour and quality. The next stage is washing where the use of chemicals and detergents is kept to an absolute minimum to ensure preservation of the natural oils, leaving the wool as warm, light and water-resistant as nature meant it to be. Finally, the prime quality wool is selected for spinning into the finest yarn before being knitted into a wide range of products. All patterns have been devised by Icelandic designers throughout the centuries.

The distinctive patterns of Icelandic knitwear are as much a part of Iceland as its mountains, waterfalls and hot springs. Durable yet soft, strong but comfortable, Icelandic woollens are the natural choice if you want to share in the wonders of the unique country that created them. ■

WOOL SWEATERS HAND KNITTED IN ICELAND, ACCESSORIES, WOOL BLANKETS, TRADITIONAL CRAFTS & MODERN ICELANDIC ART

www.alafoss.is

ENJOY THE WARMTH FROM ICELAND! 1896

LAUGAVEGUR 8, REYKJAVÍK ÁLAFOSSVEGUR 23, MOSFELLSBÆR OPEN: MON. - FRI. 9.00 - 18.00 SAT. 9:00 - 16:00

REYKJAVÍK living 37

The Icelandic Warmth The Varma label – meaning Warmth – is the leading manufacturer and distributor of Icelandic woolen goods in Iceland and abroad. The Varma manufacturing brand includes socks, mittens, hats, headbands, gloves, scarves and shawls, as well as a selection of sweaters, cardigans and capes made from high quality Icelandic wool.

Varma goods are extremely popular in Iceland, being both beautiful and warm – and you can trust the quality. They are timeless and classic, their designs based on the Nordic heritage, meant for the contemporary lifestyle in not so warm climate. Another reason for Varma’s popularity is the fact that the Icelandic wool stands well up to wear and tear. It lasts for decades if handled correctly. And not just in Iceland as the Varma products are exported to over two hundred sales agents around the world.

All the Varma goods are knitted and produced in Iceland, thus guaranteeing the icelanders’ craftsmanship and love of the wool that’s kept them warm for centuries.

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Additionally, Varma offers a selection of traditional Icelandic sheepskin shearling products including hats, mittens and slippers. In fact, Varma is the only Icelandic company offering goods from the sheepskin shearlings as 80 percent of the skins are exported. See more at www.varma.is ■

The timeless warmth of Iceland

VARMA IS DEDICATED TO MAINTAINING ICELANDIC TRADITION IN DEVELOPING, DESIGNING AND MANUFACTURING QUALITY GARMENTS AND ACCESSORIES FORM THE BEST ICELANDIC WOOL AND SHEEPSKIN SHEARLING.

VARMA IS AVAILABLE IN VARIOUS SHOPS AROUND ICELAND, HAGK AUP, ELLINGSEN, PENNINN-EYMUNDSSON, GEYSIR SHOP AND THE BLUE LAGOON

REYKJAVÍK living 39

Into the World of Ice Glacier Walks are fast becoming the most popular outdoors activity in Iceland Icelandic Mountain Guides is Iceland‘s premier adventure tour operator. The company offers all kinds of outdoors adventure in the wilderness of both Iceland and Greenland. Long trips for the hardy kind, hard trips for the professionals – and both longer discovery adventures or day-tours for all the rest of us, children and adults alike.

Did you know that glaciers cover around 12% of the country‘s surface and Vatnajökull is Europe's largest glacier? Further, did you know that glaciers are not just the simple ice-caps you see from afar? They have their own landscape; mountains and valleys with spectacular caves, rivers and lakes in a wide range of white and ice-blue colours. This pristine world is well worth the trip. But, by all means, don‘t go it alone or without proper guidance! They may look appealing, but glaciers can be a treacherous sort.

Day tours for all ages

companies in Iceland. Icelandic Mountain Guides also uphold an active environmental policy that has won several awards.

Icelandic Mountain Guides offer a range of glacier walks and ice climbing day tours. All their guides are very experienced and go through a highly awarded training system to ensure the standard of safety and experience on the Icelandic glaciers. The training system now sets the standard for all other outdoor adventure

Glacier walks are indeed a family-friendly activity. The shorter tours are suitable for children from the age of eight and the longer tours for children from the age of ten. The walks are moderately steep and thus suitable for people of all ages. The

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glaciers are easily accessible and the glacier walks are operated every day, all year on Sóheimajökull glacier and from Skaftafell in Vatnajökull National Park.

You can either go on day tours from Reykjavík with Icelandic Mountain Guides– or drive yourself to the locations. You don‘t need any equipment as the company supplies pick-axes and crampons (spikes), as well as clothing for rainy days if needed.

Hiking shoes can also be rented. Still it is important to be warmly dressed.

You just have to choose the right tour for you Of course, Icelandic Mountain Guides are not limited to glaciers.

Whatever outdoors activities you prefer, they have a great tour for you. Be it hiking, skiing, mountain biking, or super jeep expeditions, Icelandic Mountain Guides provide adventures for all.

Whether you are looking for a short or a long adventure tour, be sure to check their homepage for the right tour for you at www. mountainguides.is or have them design a special tour with a private guide for you and your family/friends. ■

REYKJAVÍK living 41

Listen to the Music Throughout the Middle Ages the pious fathers of religion banned all joy from peoples‘ lives. There was to be no music or dancing and for ages the islanders largely kept to their ancient ways of rímur. Around 1900 though a few individuals, educated abroad, started bringing back with them musical instruments and telling people about the wonderful world of music. Still, music didn‘t become an artform for anyone who loved music until the second world war, when quite a number of musicians from Germany and Austria came to Iceland as refugees and started teaching music to the general public.

Now, this is an extremely short version of the history of music in Iceland. But, the Icelanders were quick to catch on and today it studying music is considered an important part of childrens‘ education. The Icelanders simply love music. Any kind of music and the music created, produced and performed in Iceland is very diverse.

Daytrips.is: AT ICELAND TOURS Guided day trips from Reykjavík By 4x4 Super Jeep: Groups 2-7 persons By luxury coach: Groups 6-62 persons We also offer custom private tours.

Quite a number of Icelandic musicians have entered the international stage. Icelandic opera singers can be found in Opera Houses all over the world. Musicians playing classical and contemporary music appear regularly in Concert Halls, as soloists, in duos, trios, quartets, etc. as well as in chamber and symphony orchestras. A number of composers are working for musicians and orchestras all over the world. The jazz and blues scene is quite rich and in the pop and rock scene, Bjork opened a door , without doubt.

Today, Icelandic music isn‘t only made for Icelanders. The world is listening. Take some time to visit a record store and ask for Icelandic music. You can be certain to find something to your taste. ■

Tour Operator

Golden Circle=Thingvellir, Geysir, Gullfoss Blue Lagoon/Reykjanes/peninsula Snaefellsnes/Glacier/Borgarfjordur, South coast/Glacier/Vik : Glacial Lagoon = Jokulsarlon May-Oct, Langjokull, Landmannalaugar, Thorsmork.

Authorised by Icelandic Tourist Board

www.daytrips.is BOOK NOW info@daytrips.is +354 899 6312

We sing beautiful songs in our trips • Included: Guidance, history and songs • We visit daily year round

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REYKJAVÍK living 43

Books on Food and Fire Uppheimar Publishing Company only work with the best

An island on fire, its magma and birds are amongst the great books to take back home after a visit to Iceland. Uppheimar Publishing Company was swift to react when the famous and unpronouncable volcano, Eyjafjallajökull, erupted three years ago, stalling aviation operation over most of Europe. The volcano was still at it when Eyjafjallajökull on Fire was published, red hot from the printers, containing Ragnar Th. Sigurðsson‘s spectacular photos along with an informative, yet beautifully written text, by the geophysicist and writer, Ari Trausti Guðmundsson.

Another book, Magma, followed shortly afterwards, introducing the volcanic craters of Iceland as well as providing comprehensive information on all erputions in Iceland between 1918 and 2011. With the most spectacular volcanic photos from the best photographers during the decades, Magma also contains photographs by Ragnar and is written by Ari Trausti who are generally viewed by Icelanders as leading figures in explaining geological disasters to laymen and professionals alike.

Treats for the eyes Both books have enoyed popularity amongst tourists, but not all like to include a big, heavy book in their luggage. Thus, the publisher has now released a smaller versions (15x15 cm) of both books, with emphasis on the highlights of the Icelandic volcanic activities – quite a treat to take back home. In the publisher‘s small book series you will also find a beautiful and poetic book, Black Sky, on deserted farms in Iceland, two new books, Reykjavík Moments and Busy Birds by one of Iceland‘s most famous photographers, Friðþjófur Helgason. And, of 44 REYKJAVÍK living

course, a book on the ever popular Puffins. Also look out for I Was Here – a book containing wonderful photos from Iceland by the renowned photographer, Kristján Ingi Einarsson – a real treat for the eyes.

Summit – 100 Mountain Hikes in Iceland is yet another book written by Ari Trausti, a thorough guide for hikers planning to take on some of the hundred most popular hiking moutains in Iceland. Containing photos, maps, route descriptions, excellent advice and practical information, it is a must have for hikers in Iceland. The hiking routes are carefully chosen by Ari Trausi, and vary from short, easy hikes, to long and strenuous for the serious hikers.

A culinary wonder Last, but not least, is WEST FJORDS – a Culinary Journey. Written by husband and wife gourmet chefs, Karl Kristján Ásgeirsson and Guðlaug Jónsdóttir, natives of Ísafjörður with photos by Ágúst Atlason, it is no ordinary book on cooking. It is a celebration of the nature of West fjords, its riches and the heritage in working with the ever fresh ingredients to create an exceptional cuisine.

Such wonderful books to get acquainted with the Icelandic soul are available. When the publisher is asked how he explains his success in books for tourists, his reply is simple: „We only work with the best photographers, the most knowledgable writers." ■

Beautiful Souvenirs and Gifts

A Selection of Books on Iceland Compact books (15x15 cm) on various subjects from some of Iceland’s finest photographers and writers.

Magma brings a century of volcanism in Iceland to life through great photographs and informative text. Summit is a guide to 100 mountain hikes and trails – ranging from very light to difficult.

West Fjords, a culinary journey through the nature, history and culture of this beautiful part of Iceland. In English and German.

I Was Here contains stunning photos from exciting locations in Iceland in wide-angle format.

Available in book stores all around Iceland REYKJAVÍK living 45 including Keflavík Airport

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Our Queen of Crime Yrsa Sigurðardóttir enjoys immense popularity in Iceland and of late her novels have been available in the English and German languages.

Icelanders have always prided themselves in being a literary nation – and indeed, even today, research shows that the islanders are more avid readers than any other nation on earth. Thus, the number of good Icelandic writers shouldn‘t come as a surprise.

But, some writers are more loved than others, more in tune with modern day living – and indeed capable of winding together the trials and tribulations of temporary society and old myths, even ghost stories.

REYKJAVÍK living 47

An unlikely heroine Yrsa Sigurðardóttir is one of those writers. Having written six crime stories and one ghost story, she enjoys huge popularity amongst Icelanders. She is our unchallenged Queen of Crime.

And no longer is she our secret treasure, as her novels have been translated into various languages – amongst them, of course, English. The titles Someone to Watch Over Me, I Remember You, My Soul to Take,The Day is Dark, Last Rituals, Ashes to Dust are already available in English and in the fall of 2013, her penultimate novel Silence of the Sea will be available as well.

The first six books evolve around Thora an attorney, a single mother and a very young grandmother who gets tangled up in cases which seem quite innocent to begin with – always end up in a suprising conclusion. To make matters worse, she has a really quirky secretary. And, naturally, she is looking for love. When Yrsa‘s 7th book, the ghost story (sans Thora) was published, her readers missed their heroine. A year later, with no Thora in Cold, Yrsa proved she was fully capable of capturing her readers without her. Thora is not expected to return until the fall of 2014 as Yrsa‘s next novel is again a stand-alone.

Thora is quite an unlikely heroine in a crime novel – but her creator, Yrsa, is also an unusual writer. A Civil Engineer, wife, mother of two, and a grandmother, she made quite a stir in the Icelandic Literary Sector when her first crime-novel was published. When asked what made her start writing along with her engineering career, she replies it was due to reading bad literature.

The question of fear „Most writers get inspired by good literature, but I was inspired by the bad sort,“ she says. „When my son was about eight years old, we were living abroad. He attended a book club and the books he brought home were bad and boring. There seemed to be quite a shortage of good literature for children. I decided it couldn‘t be such a big deal to write good books and altogether I 48 REYKJAVÍK living

wrote five children‘s books before switching to the crime genre.

And the funny thing is, hardly any grownup seems to be aware of my children‘s stories. You don‘t get recognized for writing for children.“ Yrsa says she doesn‘t want to be labeled as solely a crime writer or a ghost story writer. „Nowadays, I write the story I need to write.

Be it a crime or ghost story. Those two genres share so many similar elements. A ghost story is actually a crime story with one more element thrown into it. It is not that complicated to dress a crime story in a layer of things we are afraid of.“ When asked what we are afraid of, Yrsa replies: „Generally, we don‘t know. I like to write around the types of fear we can´t reason with. The fear for which we have no contingency plan. If you fear the occult, you are not in control. You have no way of knowing how to react.“

I am not a superwoman Until recently, Yrsa juggled both her engineering and literary career full time – but, in the end it became just too much. „I got tired of feeling I was neglecting both jobs in turn. I travel quite a lot to promote my novels, both in Iceland and abroad and it was interfering with my regular job – so now I keep a 70% position as an engineer, which leaves me enough time to commit to my writing. The family part has been much easier to deal with.

When I am writing, I don‘t do housework and I don‘t cook – maybe due to the fact that I am no good at it. I am not a superwoman who takes care of everything and everyone. Some women come home from work and start knitting. I come home from work and start writing. I hardly ever watch TV, so I have a lot of free time on my hands.“ So, if you want to enjoy a really good book, pick up one of Yrsa Siguðardóttir‘s novels in one of the bookstores – or buy them online. You‘ll have a lot to look forward to. ■

“One of the standouts in recent cookbook releases” Iceland Review “...captures the extraordinary otherworldliness of the Icelandic landscape” Lonely Planet Magazine

Into the North

beautifully illustrated cookbook, a culinary saga of Iceland Zest Magazine

REYKJAVÍK living 49

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Laugar Health Spa and Swimming Oasis LAUG­AR is a high quality luxury health and spa resort. There you will find a European-style spa where the accent is on the relaxing and healing properties of natural geothermal water.

In soothing surroundings body and soul can be restored in oasis of peach and warmth.

In Laugar you can find; the most state of the art fitness centre in Iceland, a spa called Badstofa, Laugar Spa beauty and massage salon, Laugar café a restaurant and hair salon.

Fitness center The bright and spacious fitness center contains the best in state of the art fitness equipment from the world’s leading manufacturers, Life Fitness and Hammer Strength. The accent is on variety and quality: here there is something for all in the family. All the employees are professionally qualified.

REYKJAVÍK living 51

The six-metre-wide waterfall shows the unique design features of Sigurdur Gudmundsson, one of Iceland’s most prominent artists. His artwork and sculptures in smooth granite make the whole spa experience aesthetically perfect.

Massa­ge and Body treatments at Laug­ar-Spa Laug­ar Spa Beauty and Massa­ge Clinic is attached to Laugar

Laugar Spa is a 5 star beauty and massage salon attached to Laugar where the best professionals ensure that our guests get good service and excellent relaxation away from the hustle and bustle of everyday life. Laugar Spa uses products from Guerlain and Comfort Zone which are well known throughout the world.

Hotsto­ne Massa­ge

Laug­ar Café-Restaurant Laugar Café serves lunch and dinner along with a variety of light healthy courses, sandwiches and drinks throughout the day.

Amongst other, Laugar Café offers the Boozt and protein bar, with a large selection of skyr and proteindrinks, as well as freshly made fruit and vegetable juices.

Laugar Café has a café bar with a view over the Laugardalur Swimming Pools. Our guests can enjoy delicious drinks while having a look at a selection of magazines or reading a good book.

Above all, Laugar Café is an accessible café, open to everyone, and a great place to rest your bones after a nice walk in Laugardalur, a refreshing swim, sweating it out in the gym or having had a nice relaxing time in Laugar Spa.

Children’s Para­d­ise A playroom, junior gym and cinema for the children.

The Spa Bad­stofa

In Laugar Spa you enter an aquatic haven where you can indulge both body and soul. Six different saunas and steam rooms are available, each one with a different theme, where you can experience sounds of nature, a starry night sky and enjoy different aromas. Soothe tired limbs in a Thalasso therapy Jacuzzi, rejuvenate tired feet in a special footbath, switch between hot and cold showers in special cubicles or enjoy delicious food and drink in one of the restaurants on the premises. In soothing surroundings, body and soul can be restored in an oasis of peach and warmth. Try jacuzzis with hot and cold subterranean seawater or enjoy tehe relaxation room, equipped with comfortable benches and a centrally located fireplace.

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This ancient massage method comes to us from the Amerindian peoples of North America. Massage is administered with the aid of stones, which are heated to about 50° C, and oil. The treatment promotes a deeper relaxation of muscles and ligaments than traditional massage, and is highly effective against myoses and rheumatic pain and combats stiffness and other complaints.

The treatment takes about 50 or 90 minutes.

Epson Salt Massa­ge This is based on the use of special salt in which the grains are pearl-shaped, not the sharp angular crystals familiar to us in the form of table salt. It reduces oedema and is good for tired and tender muscles. Salt massage stimulates energy, combats lethargy, is effective against rheumatic pains and relieves asthma.

An energy-balancing treatment, salt massage takes about 75 minutes.

Laugar Spa Chocolate Massage This is a signature treatment, specially designed for Laugar Spa guests, using Icelandic chocolate oil. Chocolate is uniquely rich of anti oxidants and is very good for the circulation. This treatment takes 60 minutes.

Detoxifying mud therapy (Purifying treatment) 60 minutes.

A balancing and detoxifying treatment accelerate the body's metabolism, favouring profound purification as well as an effective slimming action. Results: Deep remineralization, firmed and smoothed tissues, elevated stimulation of circulation, metabolism and lymphatic flow.

This treatment takes 60 minutes

Guerlain facial Guerlain´s most popular facial for the last decade.

A specialised Guerlain Shitatsu, a specially selected treatment mask and head massage as well as hand and foot massage.

The treatment is specially selected taking in to account each customer´s needs and wishes. The treatment maintains the skin´s youthful glow. Your Guerlain beautician will give you a star treatment for 90 minutes

Tur­k­ish Bath This treatment is based on essential oils and mild soap. First the skin is scrubbed and then gone over with a soft textured bag and then rinsed. After the bath you have a massage. It is very relaxing, both mentally and physically, and leaves the skin silken-smooth, stimulating circulation and the lymph system, reducing cellulite formation and removing dead skin cells.

This treatment takes 90 minutes and ends with a light meal.

Treatment for the Gentlemen Ideal skin treatment for all those gentlemen constantly on the move or who are under a lot of stress but still want to look good at all times. This treatments includes head massage and takes 60 minutes. ■

All guests at Laug­ar have free access to the Laug­ar­dal­ur Thermal Pools, inclu­ding the indoor pool.

Access to the spa is included in all Massage and Body treatment. For appointments please call 533 1177 or e-mail laugarspa@laugarspa.is.

Laug­ar in Laug­ar­dal­ur Sund­lauga­vegur 30a 104 Reykja­vík Tel: +354 553 0000 www.laug­ar­spa.is

Open­ing ho­urs at Laug­ar: Monday - Fri­day 06:00 - 23:30 Sat­ur­day - 08:00 - 22:00 Sunday 08:00 - 20:00

REYKJAVÍK living 53

Photo: Anna Guðmundsdóttir - www.flickr.com/photos/anna9370

The Viking Horse Surviving the unforgiving nature The Icelandic horse is in a league of its own. Though hardy, athletic and sure-footed, it is spirited, het friendly and adaptable. The five gaits is what sets ist apart from all other horses. The fifth gait is called tölt, a very smooth four-beat gait. While reaching speed similar to fast trotting, it is far less jolting to the rider.

The average Icelandic horse is 13-14 hands tall. It is versatile, bred to carry adults at a fast pleasing gait over long distances. It is distinctive for its thick and often double-sided mane and long tail and remarkable for its wide range of colours.

What makes the Icelandic horse interesting is its genetic purity.

It has been the only horse breed since the Viking era. Already in 1882 Althingi (the Icelandic government) passed a law forbidding any import of horses. A law which is still valid today and even more strict. Today, used bits, bridles, health products, brushes etc. are included in the list of things that can not reenter the island. An Icelandic horse exported to other countries can never return. Ever. And indeed, virtually all contagious diseases, from which horses on the European continent and the US suffer, are unknown in Iceland.

54 REYKJAVÍK living

In the early 20th century the Icelandic horse was an all-purpose animal, taking on chores carried out by different breeds in the wider world. Driving carts and harvesting tools, serving as pack-animals, used for riding, of course, and they were also food. They still are. The horse was the only means of travel in the rugged coutryside where they even swam over deep glacial rivers with their passengers intact. pendent on their horses for centuries. Lack of roads is possibly the reason why it is so sure-footed. For breeding, the Icelandic farmers chose the horses most outstandingly sure on tracks, and rocks, moors and steep hillsides. Our unforgiving nature made its choice. It is most certainly a question of the survival of the fittest.

The Icelandic horse has been exported, mainly to Europe and the US. Nearly 90.000 of them are now living abroad, never to return. The funny thing though is the tradition all over the world to provide the horses with Icelandic names. It is a lovely tradition, honouring the deep roots this amazing animal has in the Icelandic culture.. ■

Riding in Iceland with Eldhestar Greatest Variety of Riding Tours just Outside Reykjavik

www.eldhestar.is » Tel: +354 480 4800

Photos: Anna Guðmundsdóttir - www.flickr.com/photos/anna9370

REYKJAVÍK living 55

Looking Good on a Horse Hestar og Menn offers excellent service to the lovers of the riding sport The Icelandic Horse attracts tourists from all over the world to Iceland. Every year tens of thousands visit the country to come encounter with the animal.

To thoroughly enjoy the Icelandic horse it is advisable to have the right equipment and be suitably dressed. In Iceland, especially in the highlands, you may expect all kinds of weather – even during the summer.

will find only quality outfits here. Everything is specially chosen or designed to accommodate those who are riding the Icelandic horse during all seasons anywhere in the northern hemisphere.

We all want to look good when riding our horses – and we all want our horses to look good. Apart from everything you need to ride your horse, we have a wide variety of goods to groom it and take excellent care of it.

Hestar og menn (Horses and Men), is located at Lyngháls 5. The shop services the horse-riders every need and the owners do their utmost to cater to everyones wishes, whether it is riding gear or suitable clothing.

Whether you need trousers or sweaters, coats or jackets, socks or gloves, hats or scarves – or beautiful riding boots, Hestar og Menn has got it. And, most of the outfits are so beautiful, you don‘t even need to own a horse to wear them. They are just great for urban living in a colder climate.

For all seasons

Quite unique

Hestar og Menn has a wide variety of clothing, for example water and wind resistant, to suit the precarious Icelandic weather, fancy and glittering, to enjoy showing off on a nice day, and plain sensible clothing. Also the shop has designer clothes from For horses in Italy and Charles de Nevel from France. No matter what your style is, you will find it there.

The saddles are all designed for the Icelandic Horse. Some are specially made for Hestar og Menn by Saint Lourdes in Argentina, others are specially produced in Germany by Hilbar and by Karlslund in Denmark.

„Our aim is to be able to provide excellent service to everyone,“ says the owner, Anna. „No matter what your style or budget, you 56 REYKJAVÍK living

You might also want to visit the shop to look at the exhibition on display there. Beautiful paintings of the Icelandic horse by Kolbrún Róbertsdóttir, to buy for yourself or as a gift for a true admirer of the Icelandic horse. ■

Hestar og Menn - Ögurhvarfi 1 - Kópavogi - Sími 567 3300

www.hestarogmenn.is

REYKJAVÍK living 57

Golfing Iceland might become the adventure of a lifetime PLAYING GOLF AT MIDNIGHT surrounded by lava fields.

This may sound too strange to be true. But not in Iceland!

Midnight golf is available in summer due to Iceland’s northerly location. The sun shines round the clock in the end of May, all June and July. It’s wonderful to play in the midnight sun when the moon is trying to win over the sky but after a long fight and dance in the ring called galaxy, the moon has to accept losing to the strong and brighter power.

In Iceland you can find all the challenges you could possibly imagine from the creative and powerful nature. It’s possible to fight against, and try to concur all the different challenges of nature that you can think of. One-tenth of Iceland’s surface is adorned with lava. Sweeping mountains and majestic ocean views characterise Icelandic golf courses, which follow the contours of the naturally dramatic landscape, a popular trend in golf course design today. Their design pays tribute to the first and therefore oldest golf courses in Scotland. ■

• The first documentation of golfing in Iceland is from the year 1912.

• A good number of Icelanders have been playing golf with passion since early 1930’s.

• The first golf clubs in Iceland were GK Iceland, founded in 1934.

• GK Akureyri was founded in 1935 and GK Vestmannaeyjar was founded in 1938.

• GSI aka Golf association of Iceland was founded in 1942.

• The number of golf courses are close to 70, includin courses for practice before golf competition.

58 REYKJAVÍK living

GOLF AROUND THE CLOCK?

Most of Iceland’s sixty golf courses are set in spectacular scenery where nature and lava play a major part in the experience.

Try some of our sixty different golf courses around the country.

You can also golf in the midnight sun in Iceland May through July.

www.golficeland.org

REYKJAVĂ?K living 59 Contact the reception or visit www.golficeland.org

Photos: www.ragnarfreyr.blog.is/blog/ragnarfreyr

Healthy Food and the Sweetest Tooth Good food is essential for our well-being. We want it to look good, taste good and be good for our health. In Iceland that is precisely what you will find.

of business. So, you can be quite sure, wherever you have your meal, it will be good.

It is almost impossible to find a bad restaurant in Iceland. This health conscious nation wants its clean ingredients, non-processed meats, a lot of fish and their vegetables from the Icelandic greenhouses scattered around the geothermal areas.

But, of course we also have a sweet tooth – and love the Icelandic sweets. We even claim our chocolate, liquorice and other candy is the best in the world. We find it totally natural to be labelled the greatest candy-eaters in the northern hemisphere. It only goes to show how right we are about our chocolate.

The is a simple reason for all those good restaurants. With such a few inhabitants, news spreads fast. When a restaurant isn‘t up to the standards, the Icelanders simply boycott it and it goes out

Everybody has to eat, but of course not everybody needs to munch on sweets. Still, spoil yourself and taste the divine Icelandic chocolate and the various chocolate bars. It is simply divine. ■

EXPERIENCE ICELAND EXPERIENCE ARCTIC TRUCKS!

GUIDED SELF DRIVE TOURS

Only few people have had the opportunity to sit behind the wheel of a powerful 4x4 in one of the world’s most unique places. Arctic Trucks has now made it possible to experience the remote areas of Iceland in the cars that are known all over the world from the BBC television show Top Gear.

Arctic Trucks offers guided self drive tours in Iceland in cars just like those Top Gear took to the Magnetic North Pole with James and Jeremy.

FOLLOW

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US ON FACEBOOK

Arctic Trucks Iceland | Kletthals 3 | 110 Reykjavík | Tel: +354 540 4900 | Mob: +354 617 8000 | experience@arctictrucks.com 60 REYKJAVÍK living

hagkaup

one stop shop in Kringlan, Skeifan, Smáralind, Garðabær, Eiðistorg, Spöngin, Holtagarðar & Akureyri.

Hagkaup is the only hypermarket in Iceland. We offer the widest range of merchandise in Iceland. Our locations in Skeifan, Garðabær & Eiðistorg are open 24 hours.

shop One stop with : eries

• Groc ing • Cloth s • Shoe • Toys eware • Hom , DVD’s • CD’s ronics • Elect .

Welcome to the only hypermarket in Iceland

re..

and mo

one stop shop REYKJAVÍK living 61

DAY TOURS Sundays and Wednesdays Golden Circle and Highland adventure. Optional: choose between a glacial boat tour or ride a snowmobile on a shiny glacier and plant your own tree in Iceland. Price from: 15.000 Isk. Every Saturday Vestmanna Islands. Volcanic wonders, Iceland’s “Pompeii” and the home of the puffin. Optional cruise around the harbor includes lunch and a movie screening.

Price from: 17.000 Isk. Duration: 8–9 hrs.

D AY T O U R S D AY T O U R S

Every Thursday Sundays and Wednesdays Snæfellsnes -’Journey to theadventure.

Center of theOptional: Earth’. choose Golden Circle and Highland and adventurous cave betweenVolcanic a glacial wonders boat tour or ride a snowmobile on atour. shiny glacier and plant your own tree in Iceland. from: 15.000 Isk. 8–9 hrs.

Price: 19.500.

IskPrice (cave incl.).

Duration: Sundays and Wednesdays

Every Saturday

Golden Circle and Highland adventure. Optional: choose Every Monday Vestmanna Volcanic Iceland’s andand theplant betweenIslands. a glacial boat tour orwonders, ride a snowmobile on“Pompeii” a shiny glacier Waterfall Mania.

Visit 8–10 spectacular in onelunch day.and a home of the Optional cruise around the harbor includes yourpuffin. own tree in Iceland.

Price from: 15.000 Isk.falls movie screening.

Price from: 17.000 Isk. Price:18.000.Isk. Duration: 9–10Duration: hrs. 8–9 hrs.

GET Iceland Green Energy Travel - Iceland is a new environmentally friendly touring company. We want to introduce you to the beauty and wonders of Iceland in a personal and exciting way. In small groups, led by knowledgeable and highly motivated guides, we follow a somewhat different path, show you hidden gems, take you on smaller less traveled roads where few of the crowded tour busses pass and also all the well known and famous destinations.

Every Saturday

Vestmanna Islands. Volcanic wonders, Iceland’s “Pompeii” and the Every Thursday

On demand home of the puffin. Optional cruiseCenter around theof harbor lunch Snæfellsnes -’Journey to the theincludes Earth’ . and a movie screening.

Price from: 17.000 Duration: 8–9Isk hrs. hikeadventurous – Eyjafjallajökull.

See the craters Volcanic Volcano wonders and cave tour.Isk. Price: 19.500. (cave incl.).

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2010 eruption. Price: 33.000. Isk. Duration: 11–12 hrs.

Thursday

Snæfellsnes -’Journey to the Center of the Earth’.

On demand The Complete Angler Price:18.000.Isk. Duration: 9–10 and hrs. his Friends. Fishing and farming Every Monday adventure for the whole family. Price: 25.000 Isk (all equipm.

On demand Waterfall Mania.

Visit 8–10 falls in one day. and lunch incl).

Duration: 8–9spectacular hrs.

Every Monday Volcanic wonders and adventurous cave tour. Price: 19.500. Isk (cave incl.).

Waterfall Mania.

Visit 8–10 spectacular falls in one day.

Duration: 8–9 hrs.

Volcano hike – Eyjafjallajökull.

Price:18.000.Isk. Duration: 9–10 hrs. See the craters of the 2010 eruption. Price: 33.000. Isk. Duration: 11–12 hrs.

On demand

WINTER SPECIALS See the craters of the 2010 Volcano hike – Eyjafjallajökull.

On demand On demand eruption.

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Isk. Duration: 11–12 hrs. Fishing and farming The Complete Angler and his Friends.

Spectacular Sunset Twilight the adventure fordemand the whole family.and Price: 25.000Tour.

Isk (allExperience equipm. and lunch incl).

On Duration:breath­ 8–9 hrs. taking twilight in Reykjavik vicinity.Fishing and farming The Complete Angler and hisand Friends.

adventure forIsk. the whole family.

Price: Price: 5.500 Duration: 2–3 hrs.25.000 Isk (all equipm. and lunch incl).

Duration: 8–9 hrs.

WINTER SPECIALS

Every On demand WIN night T E R (depending S P E C I A Lon S forecast) Music ofSunset the Nightand – Northern Lights.

Stars and Moon Spectacular Twilight Tour.

Experience the On demand breathtaking twilight in Reykjavik andand vicinity.

Price: Isk. Duration: 2–3 hrs. as well as the mysterious beings of the5.500 darkness.

Spectacular Sunset Twilight Tour.

Experience the Price: 5.900 Isk. Duration: 3–5 hrs.

Every night (depending on forecast)

breathtaking twilight in Reykjavik and vicinity. Price: 5.500 Isk. Duration: 2–3 hrs.

Music of the Night – Northern Lights. Stars and Moon as well Every night (depending on forecast)

as the mysterious beings of the darkness.

Price:Lights.

5.900 Isk. Duration: 3–5ashrs.

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mysterious the darkness.

Price:tour, 5.900 Isk. Duration: 3–5 hrs.

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under the starsCircle and northern lights at Laugarvatn On demand 3 in one!

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Price: 17.000 Isk.tour, Duration:10–11 hrs.stars and northern lights at Laugarvatn Spa. Price: 17.000 Isk. Duration:10–11 hrs.

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62 REYKJAVÍK living

www.ecotoursiceland.com

GET Iceland was founded by tourist guides, Magnús Kjartanson and Ragnheiður Erla Bjarnadóttir, who both have been guiding tourists for decades. The company offers you help with all your travel needs, such as glacier hikes, horse – back riding, rafting and snowmobiling. We offer every activity on the Icelandic touring scale. We are knowledgeable, flexible and friendly.

Our goal is to conduct all our tours solely with environmentally friendly fuels within the next few years or according to progress of such fuel types. We plant trees or spread grass seeds or fertilizers in specified areas and tours, so you will leave a positive impact on the land. The companys goal is to be certified by an internationally acclaimed environmental agency such as Green globe and the Swan within the next few years. ■

At your service- Anywhere- Anytime

Special sightseeing taxi tours

We specialize in personalized sightseeing day trips to the natural wonders of Iceland – for small groups of 4-8 persons.

All major credit cards accepted by the driver.

To book in advance: tel:+354 588 5522 or on www.hreyfill.is E-mail: tour@hreyfill.is

REYKJAVĂ?K living 63

How to Drive

and how not to drive in Iceland

A RELATIVELY large percentage of foreign tourists in Iceland travel around the country by car. Conditions in Iceland are in many ways unusual, and often quite unlike those to which foreign drivers are accustomed. It is therefore very important to find out how to drive in this country. We know that the landscapes are beautiful, which naturally draws the attention of driver away from the road. But in order to reach your destination safely, you must keep your full attention on driving.

road. It is usually sheep, but sometimes horses and even cows can be in your path. This is common all over the country, and can be very dangerous. Sometimes a sheep is on one side of the road and her lambs on the other side. Under these conditions, which are common, it is a good rule to expect the lambs or the sheep to run to the other side.

Seatbelts are required by law

The speed limit in urban areas is usually 50 km/hr. Speed limit signs are usually not posted unless it is other than 50 km/hr.

The speed limit is often 60 km/hr on thruways, but in residential areas it is usually only 30 km/hr. The main rule on highways is that gravel roads have a speed limit of 80 km/hr, and paved roads 90 km/hr. Signs indicate if other speed limits apply. The penalty for speeding is hefty, plus suspension of the driver’s licence.

In Iceland, drivers and passengers are required by law to wear seatbelts, regardless of the type of vehicle or where they are seated. Investigations of fatal accidents in recent years have shown that a large majority of those who died did not have their seatbelts fastened. Wearing seatbelts is especially important because of the nature of accidents in Iceland: many of them involve vehicles driving off the road and rolling over. In such accidents, seatbelts often mean the difference between life and death. It should be noted that children must either wear seatbelts, or be in car safety seats, depending on their age and maturity.

Gravel roads, blind hills & blind curves

Necessary to bear in mind

A common place for accidents to occur on urban roads is where a paved road suddenly changes to gravel. The main reason is that drivers do not reduce speed before the changeover to gravel, and consequently lose control. Loose gravel on road shoulders has also caused a great number of accidents. When driving on gravel roads, which are often quite narrow, it is important to show caution when approaching another car coming from the opposite direction by moving as far to the right as is safely possible.

It is against the law to operate a vehicle in Iceland after having consumed alcohol or drugs, and the punishment for violating this law is rather stiff. Those driving a car with more than the legal blood alcohol limit of 0.5 per mill, have to pay a penalty and suffer suspension of their drivers’s licence. The penalties for drunk driving are severe. If driving under the influence of alcohol or drugs, you will not be entitled to compensation in case of an accident and will have to bear the total cost of the accident yourself. This can amount to several million Ikr.

What are the speed limits?

Blind hills, where lanes are not separate, can be very dangerous, and should be approached with caution. There are also many blind curves in Iceland that test a driver’s skill.

Single-lane bridges There are many single-lane bridges on the Ring Road. The actual rule is that the car closer to the bridge has the right-of-way.

However, it is wise to stop and assess the situation, i.e. attempt to see what the other driver plans to do. This sign indicates that a single-lane bridge is ahead.

Livestock on the road In Iceland, you can expect livestock to be on or alongside the

64 REYKJAVÍK living

»»Iceland requires that vehicle headlights be on at all times, day and night, when driving. »»It is strictly forbidden to drive off-road. Such driving results in serious damage to sensitive vegetation, which may take nature decades to repair. »»Foreign travellers requiring information regarding road and driving conditions should visit the Public Road Administration’s website at www.vegagerdin.is »»It should be noted that the Road Traffic Directorate has produced a video for foreign drivers, which covers all the points that have been mentioned here. The video can be viewed on the website, www.drive.is

s a f f r a n ma k e s y ou h a p p y - it ´s sc ie nt if ic al ly pr ov en !

saffran chicken

garlic and lobster safflat

sweetness!

piri-piri chicken

”the” chicken Burger

all our food is made from quality products, all our marinades are home-made, straight from the ♥. We don´t use white sugar or white flour - only whole wheat! and we don´t like additives or preservatives at all!

h e a l t h y fr e s h a nd e x o t i c you can fi nd our menu and our fo ur location s on our webs ite

Mi s stands for sÍ h (seemih), whic e! means telephon

opening hours: 11-22 every day

REYKJAVÍK living 65

e h T

M g n i a k y s o r a t i t l Mu

Jón Gnarr

is the politician we proudly present to the world

When Jón Gnarr was elected the Reykjavík City Mayor in 2010 a lot of people were baffled. How on earth was a stand-up comedian, an actor and a writer going to become a politician?

Three years later the answer is clear: By changing the classic, boring, inaccessible image politicians have portrayed during the last decades. Even the bleakest pessimists have become silent, admiring their mayor for his capacity to tackle difficult situations, his intelligence in reaching satisfying conclusions, his warmth in dealing with rich and poor – high and low, and his ability to work with all political parties. He listens, he learns, he grows. All without losing his playful sense of humour.

Through years of economic crisis and endless political upheaval at government level, Reykjavík City (where almost half the population of Iceland lives) has been quite peaceful. Progress has been steady, people attend to their tasks, working hard. The city is almost like a beehive surrounded by ceaseless winter storms.

The treasures of Reykjavík When asked which of his city‘s treasures the mayor would most like to show his visitors, the first thing on his mind is the Nature Museum opening in Perlan (The Pearl) in fall 2013. „Everyone should visit the Pearl as it has such a fantastic view,“ he says. „I would also like all our visitors to attend a concert at Harpa, our beautiful concert and conference centre, which recently received 66 REYKJAVÍK living

the prestigious Mies van der Rohe prize for architecture. Of that we can be very proud as 350 buildings all over Europe were nominated. But, don‘t go there just to admire the architecture.

You should also enjoy a concert there as the accoustics are exceptional. Another feature to thoroughly enjoy is our hot water. If not for our geothermal sources, Iceland would be unhabitable.

In Reykjavík we have quite a lot of swimming-pools and I always advise my guests to visit a new one each day during their stay.

They all have their own characteristics and different features.

Swimming is very good for you, and it is simply wonderful to relax in the hot-tubs afterwards. The swimming-pools are to Icelanders what the sauna is to the Finns. They are a meeting place where people gather to discuss current issues; quite informative and a lot of fun.

I would also advise our guests to try out as many restaurants and cafés as possible. We enjoy very fresh and healthy food ingredients in Iceland and all restaurants range from very good to excellent. It is near impossible to find a bad restaurant in Reykjavík.

And because we embrace diversity, you can find restaurants from quite many corners of the world here. We have been fortunate enough to have people from different countries emigrating to Iceland, bringing the flair of their own culture with them.“

Like a computer game All through his campaign for the mayor‘s chair, Jón Gnarr,

came up with outragous, hilarious and impossible-to-fulfill ideas and promises, only to show the voters how empty a politician‘s promises really are. And he certainly succeeded in opening people‘s eyes. So, what was it really like to wake up one day and realize you‘d become the mayor of Reykjavík? „It was strange. It was really strange. It was the strangest thing that‘s happened to me.

I was shown to my big office. My office. I had never, ever had an office. I had always made do with writing my material; my scripts by my kitchen tables or in a café. You know, life is a lot like a computer game. You are constantly finding new worlds, new stages, constantly learning how to travel between and deal with those worlds and stages by secret tracks and roads.“ During his stay as the mayor, Jón Gnarr has used every opportunity to express his creative force and his playful disposition.

Appearing in drag or other costumes when the opportunity arises, writing sketches and theatre plays, as well as publishing a book. When asked if he ever misses his former lifestyle, he doesn‘t hesitete to say: „Yes.“ „I sometimes miss being left in peace. I sometimes miss not having the day off when the general public have their day off. On those particular days, I am very busy making speeches, giving receptions and attend all kinds of happenings. Sometimes, I would just like to be part of the crowd enjoying the day.“ What about being a public figure?

„Now, that doesn‘t bother me all too much. Maybe because I haven‘t changed my private ways. I go the cinema and theatre whenever I like. I do my grocery shopping when I need to. I go to restaurants and cafés when I feel like it. I am not a mayor in hiding, but, of course, I carry the city with me wherever I go. I am a bit defined by the city.“

New politics In spring 2013 Iceland had government elections and a brand new government emerged. When the mayor is asked if he thinks the political scenery is changing he answers a definite, „yes, it is changing,“ and goes on to elaborate: „It is dropping the debilitating seriousness and the last remains of the attitudes from the cold-war era are disappearing. There is a lighter touch to the politicians and I am seeing a lot REYKJAVÍK living 67

changes which would not have happened but for my party, Besti Flokkurinn (The Best Party). It is apparent in the way people talk, how they dress, how they present themselves. The heavybrowed male is not in vogue anymore. We are also seeing an amazing renewal on the political field. A new generation has taken over the helm, which is simply fantastic.

There are a lot of sceptics, of course. I know quite many who don‘t like the new prime minister‘s party, but I find his views very interesting and am looking forward to following his, and his government‘s progress. This spring we had a lot of young people stepping into politics which really make me happy. But, we need to do better. I would say our greatest mission should be to get young people, expecially young women, to become interested in politics and democracy.

Democracy has always been the field of masculine measures. It is based on the male liguistics, more often than not related to sports. To be a good politician means you have to be quite masculine. As a result, women who have succeeded in politics, both here in Iceland and abroad, have done so by transforming themselves into macho-women. But, we need more than male culture.

Half the world is made up of women and we need their input.“

and we need more introverts in politics. And, quite frankly, one of the reasons I am not concerned about our new government is because the new prime minister is an introvert.“ When Jón Gnarr is asked if there is anything he is concerned about, he replies: „Yes, of course. I am hugely concerned about our beautiful nature and its resources. Our nature is our gateway to the future and we should protect with all our might. Mainly because our natural resources will only become more and more valuable. We should cherish it, be proud to show it to our visitors – who apparently like it already. Iceland was voted one of the three most interesting places to visit by the Lonely Planet Magazine readers and an increasingly large part of foreign media picks Reykjavík as the most interesting city in the world. We must not forget ourselves in short-term solutions. We must not continue to „get by,“ by investing in heavy industry.

We should map out the country for green industry and seriously consider the possibility of exporting electricity by oceanic cable to the homes of Europe.

What we need

Another danger we should be aware of is patriotism. We need diversity. We need foreign foreign influence, knowledge and culture to make our way in a world that is becoming increasingly smaller.

„My party has always been advocating for the softer measures.

The heavy-handed Joe may be good for his part, but we need to balance the scales. We need men and women, the hard and soft,

If we cherish our nature and our multi-coloured culture, we will prosper.“ ■

68 REYKJAVÍK living

r e s TaU r a n T

B ras se r i e G ra n d delicious food including icelandic seafood and lamb specialities.

With its traditional setting of cosy banquettes and fireplace it is a special place to enjoy exellent food and wines served by a team of experienced chefs and service professionals.

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New Nordic Cuisine in the heart of the city center

REYKJAVÍK living 69 F j a l a k ö t t u r i n n | A ð a l s t r æ t i 1 6 | 1 0 1 R e y k j a v í k | Te l . 5 1 4 6 0 6 0 | Fa x 5 1 4 6 0 3 0 | f j a l a k o t t u r i n n @ f j a l a k o t t u r i n n . i s

G r a n d H o T e L r e y k j av i k Gr and Hotel Re y kj av i k i s a f i r st - cl a ss hotel for bu si ne ss tr avel l er s , c on feren c e d el egate s and tou ri st s w h o d em an d excel l ent s er v i c e and f a c i l it i es .

Grand Hotel reykjavik is located in quiet surroundings conveniently near the city centre, reykjavik’s new business district and Laugardalur sport activity park.

The hotel is a first class hotel for business travellers, conference guests and tourists who insist on the very best in facilities and service. all of the hotel’s 312 rooms are spacious and equipped with first-class amenities. Family rooms, studios with kitchenette, disabled facilities, junior suites and presidential suites are available.

Fi r st C l a s s

Grand Hotel reykjavik has earned the reputation of being the main convention hotel in iceland.

The hotel restaurant offers a varied and delicious a la carte menu, and at the Miðgarður snack bar guests can enjoy a quick bite and drinks.

Free shuttle service to and from the city centre.

Free wireless internet in public areas.

Plenty of free parking on site.

Reykjavik’s largest conventions center.

Inhouse Spa & fitness centre.

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Gr an d Hótel Re y kjav í k Si g tú n 3 8 / 1 0 5 Re y kjav í k Tel : + 3 5 4 5 1 4 8 0 1 9 Fa x : + 3 5 4 5 1 4 8 0 3 0 E -m ai l : re s er v ati on s @ g r an d.i s w w w.g r an d.i s

H o T e L r e y k j av i k c e n T r U M

In the he ar t of the ol d city center The Hotel reykjavik centrum is a unique first-class hotel conveniently located in the historic city centre the liveliest and most charming part of reykjavik.

The hotel is composed of three 18th century style buildings that create an atmosphere of old icelandic charm and hospitality.

The 89 rooms are elegantly decorated filled with modern amenities, such as “en suite” bathroom, satellite and pay Tv, telephone, cable and wireless internet, mini-bar, in-room safe, hair dryer, coffee & tea maker, iron & ironing board.

First C l as s

The restaurant Fjalakötturinn offers a fine buffet breakfast in the morning and a new nordic cuisine a la carte menu in the evenings with an award selection of fine wines. Fjalakötturinn is a Wine spectactor award winning restaurant. at Uppsalir, bar & café our guests may enjoy light refreshments and relax by the fireplace or on warmer days, unwind on the terrace.

Two small conference rooms equipped with latest technology are on premises. Business desk and wireless internet.

Hotel Re y kj av i k C entr u m Að a lstr æ ti 16, 101 Re y kj av í k Tel: + 354 514 6000 Fa x : + 354 514 6030 REYKJAVÍK living 71 E - m ai l: re s er vati ons@ hotel c entr u m . i s w w w. hotel c entr u m . i s

Now it is Storytime Storytelling has been the favorite pastime in Iceland for centuries. Huddled together in their crofts and cottages with little to pass for light throughout dark winters, a good story would hold unknown but keenly felt threats away.

Thus, a tradition was established.

Talking Iceland is a theatre based on this tradition. It is located in The Dubliners, a pub in the centre of Reykjavík. A viking-style pub and thus quite appropriate for this venue. Talking Iceland is a one-man/woman show, in English, telling the history of Iceland from its settlement until independence in 1944.

The show has been on every night for four years and about seven actors take turns in telling you everything you need to know about Iceland. It takes approximately one hour – and afterwards the actors will answer your questions and discuss contemporary

Iceland as well as days gone by. It is also an interactive theatre where the audience will be invited to take part in the play. A lot of fun, a lot of information on Iceland.

The show starts at eight o‘clock every night and it is well worth an hour or two to sit down at a viking table and sip a beer or soda while listening to stories of a nation which has survived the aggressive natural forces – against all odds – for over eleven centuries. ■

. e is.. “lov that food you s love “ back

FANTASTIC FOOD FOR BODY AND SOUL OPEN MON-FRI 11-21

Suðurlandsbraut 12

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108 Reykjavík

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Tel. 557-5880

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kruska@kruska.is

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kruska.is

THE STEAK HOUSE

Steikhúsið simply means „The Steak House” and that underlines our goal, to focus solely on steaks.

The Steak house is in the middle of Reykjavík, opposite the old harbor which has recently formed into a lively neighborhood of restaurants, cafes and artisan stores and work shops.

When you wisit us, remember to try our “28 days” tendered meat. The heart of the place is a coal oven from Mibrasa, Spain. It is only fitting that we use coal for grilling and baking The Building housed a blacksmith and metal works in years gone by.

THE KITCHEN IS OPEN FROM 17:00 TILL LATE — VISIT WWW.STEAK.IS

Booking: +354 561 1111 & steik@steik.is REYKJAVÍK living 73

Lækjartorg Parliment The Pond

Lækjarbrekka

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Church Tower

Lækjarbrekka Icelandic Cuisine in the centre of Reykjavík THE HOUSE Lækjarbrekka was built as a dwelling in 1834, by the influential Danish ship owner and merchant P.C Knudtzon.

He also built a bakery and a turf house in th same lot and brought the Danish baker T.D Bernhöft to Iceland to practice his trade here.

Bernhöft, who was for a long time the only baker in Reykjavík, bought the houses in 1845. The Bernhöft family continued in the baking business at this location for two generations, building a retail shop onto the dwelling house in 1855.

This addition is today the part of the restaurant facing Banka­ stræti. The building was used as a dwelling until 1961 and a small shop was there until the time of reconstruction began in 1980. By then, the house had fallen into disrepair, as it had been neglacted for decades. Its future had been uncertain until 1979, when it and several other houses in the same block were declared protected buildings. During reconstruction, every attempt was made to preserve the original appearence.

It is a very special experience to dine in this beautifully restored house, which has an eventful 150 years history behind it.

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Menus The menu is diverse from lunchtime to evening, seven days a week. At lunchtime we specialize in light, fresh dishes, such as soup or salad as well as fresh fish and chicken dishes. In the afternoon the restaurant takes on a café atmosphere and a range of small dishes, sandwiches, coffee, cakes, Icelandic pancakes and more Icelandic specialties are available. In the evening variety is the name of the game.

Lækjarbrekka offers everything from appetizers and vegetable dishes to sumptuous meat and fish dishes and there is something for all tastes. The menu consists among else of Icelandic lobster, fresh fish of the day, Icelandic mountain lamb, puffin party and more. For dessert Icelandic specialties such as “skyr” with cream is always popular.

Table Reservations You can reserve a table by calling +354 551 4430. Reservations can be made between 11:00 and 24:00.

You can also reserve a table by e-mail.

Email: info@laekjarbrekka.is ■

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Icelandic Cuisine

Bankastræti 2 - 101 Reykjavík - Tel. 551 4430 - info@laekjarbrekka.is - www.laekjarbrekka.is REYKJAVÍK living 75

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The Harbour

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Parliment

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Church Tower

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SURF’N TURF

T-BONE WHALE LAMB RIB-EYE TBONE RIB-EYE LAMB

PUFFIN

SEAFOOD

RIBS WHALE

LOBSTER

FOIE GRASLOBSTER Laugavegur 53b • 101 Reykjavík • Tel.: 511 3350 • www.hereford.isREYKJAVÍK living 77

An exquisite breed The tender and tasty Icelandic lamb so loved by the islanders Icelanders love their lamb and indeed claim it – unashamedly – to be the best lamb in the world. Being relentless travelers themselves, they will be sure to try lambmeat wherever they go, just to prove their point, shaking their head, wondering aloud why other countries can‘t produce lamb like „we do at home.“ Closer to game than other farm animals, the meat is exceptionally tender, its texture fine and nutritious enough to have carried many an Icelander, adult and child, through harsh winters and natural disasters. Though best fresh, it can be smoked, salted, pickled and frozen – still keeping its distinct quality.

When producing high quality meat, you need unpoluted raw materials, and Icelandic sheep farmers can guarantee as much.

Sheep farming in Iceland is as old as the settlement in Iceland itself. To this day the farmers have reared their sheep by methods established by centuries of tradition, with most farms familyowned and operated.

The lambs are entirely reared outdoors, roaming moors and mountains throughout the long summer days, feasting on sedge, willow, thrift, campion and berries – making the Icelandic lamb instantly recognizable for the delicious and distinctive taste. It is closer to game than farm animals.

Most of Iceland‘s lamb productions is based on sustainable harvesting of the bounties of nature. The use of hormones is prohibited and antibiotics are strictly regulated. The Icelandic climate, clean air and abundant supply of fresh mountain water make the use of pesticides and herbicides unnecessary. The cool climate protects the land against many diseases and pests which plague agriculture in warmer latitudes. Due to Iceland‘s geo78 REYKJAVÍK living

graphical isolation and agricultural regulation which prohibits the import of live animals, many common livestock diseases are unknown in Iceland.

In a world where comsumers are becoming inreasingly conscious of their health, food must be safe to eat, pure and nutritious.

For these reasons the Icelandic lamb is recognized throughout the world for its healthy nutritional value and unique taste. The Icelandic sheep is a direct descendant of the sheep first brought to the island by the Viking settlers. It has not been crossbred by importing other breeds.

The cool climate influences the composition of the plants the sheep graze on. The lambs move freely through wild pastures and pristine mountainous landscapes. This, and the young age of slaughter (4-5 months) give the meat unique qualities and properties. The muscle has a high proportions of Omega-3 fatty acids and iron, providing the meat with its wild game flavours.

The distictive taste is a result of the wild pastures; the grass as well as the aromatic and spicy herbs on which the lambs graze.

The meat is exceptionally tender, with fine texture due to its high amount of red muscle fibres, influenced both by the breed and the grazing habits.

The lamb is perfect match to any herbs and spices. It can be adapted to all the diverse world cuisines. Still the Icelanders have their own traditions. The meat being so clean and nutritions, they will eat it raw, undercooked and overcooked, baked, grilled and boiled, in soups and casseroles. The majority of restaurants in Iceland offer a variety of lamb dishes on their menu – but, if you have a chance of the traditional Icelandic Lambmeat-soup, don‘t let it slip by. ■

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Westfjords Nature lovers paradise The Westfjords region has sometimes been dubbed “the most famous unknown place in Iceland”. A sparsely populated area (7.400 inhabitants), it is home to the arctic fox, a dizzying variety of birdlife, and breathtaking nature.

No wonder the Westfjords received the prestigious “European Destination of Excellence” awards, as well as landing on the top 10 places to visit by Lonely Planet in 2011.

a nature reserve will leave you breathless. Totally uninhabited during winter, it is revered by the Icelanders who flock there for hiking and legendary boat trips during the summer.

With precipitous cliffs plunging almost vertically to the deep blue seas below, its multitude of beautiful fjords, its hot springs, pure streams and waterfalls, it’s a place for the nature lover to be awed by its silence and tranquility. It is untouched, almost uninhabited, with a handful of lovely fishing villages scattered almost haphazardly throughout the area. And though remote, it is easily accessible with roads crossing moors and mountains, displaying magnificent views.

And, of course, the fjords are the setting for one of the famous Sagas, Gísla saga Súrssonar – translated into film by one of Iceland’s most renowned filmmakers – now available with English subtitles.

In the Westfjords you will find two of the largest seabird cliffs in north Atlantic. Látrabjarg, the biggest, is the most westerly point of Europe with its cliffs rising to 440m. It is home to the biggest gathering of seabirds in the north Atlantic. Hornstrandir, 80 REYKJAVÍK living

The locals are easy going, friendly, and curiously cosmopolitan.

They are no strangers to the latest currents in technology, ideas of fun and leisurely pleasures. Hospitable and helpful, they will make sure the visit is worth your while. ■

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Grillid Top Floor Restaurant - a treasured experience Through the last 50 years, Grillið has earned a reputation of sophistication and splendour.

Grillið is a special place and holds memories of special occasions and tender moments of its dinner guests. Each of these moments has laid the foundation for the award-winning chef de cuisine, Sigurdur Helgason.

The chef is fully aware of the status Grillið has in the hearts of Icelanders, and more than capable to meet the expectations of guests hungry for an exclusive dining experience. In the kitchen with Sigurdur is the renowned executive sous chef, Atli Þór Eðvaldsson.

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Together they create extraordinary menus with a careful consideration to each season. Their dishes are constructed of the freshest and best in-season ingredients available; Icelandic specialties mixed with a selection of exclusive flavours. The highlight of the winter is a special tasting menu, a four or seven-course peek into the chef’s mind.

For those who visit Grillið, located on the top floor of Radisson BLU Hotel Saga, it’s not only the perfectly executed food that leaves behind the wonderful feeling of quality; the fine service, warm atmosphere and a stupendous panoramic view of the city complete the unforgettable night of indulgence.

Tel.: +354 525-9960

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Email: grillid@grillid.is

ANTON & BERGUR

Always on Top At Grilliรฐ Restaurant, we strive to maintain the very highest culinary standards.

We offer only the freshest ingredients available, prepared in a light and modern manner with an emphasis on creativity and exciting flavour combinations.

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Radisson BLU Saga Hotel

8th floor tel. 525 9960

www.grillid.is

East Iceland Where magic resides East Iceland is a magical region of natural phenomena, with glaciers, forests, bird cliffs, wilderness, black highland deserts, majestic mountains and picturesque fjords. Small villages and communities, cradling by the deep fjords are welcoming, each with their distinct features, local cuisine, great museums and local festivals – as well as lovely hotels and guesthouses.

Hoards of reindeer roam mountains and highlands during summer, braving down to the lowlands in winter. Hike along the beautiful rivers with their multitudes of cascading waterfalls and you’ll be able to observe them in their natural habitat. And, of course, you’ll be able to taste their tender meat at some of the local restaurants.

The characteristics of the villages are due to the region’s rich history. Enjoying proximity to incredible fishing grounds the region has hosted a variety of European nations during the centuries; fishermen, traders, entrepreneurs and adventure seekers.

The influence is quite apparent still in the architecture, handicraft, memorabilia, and cuisine.

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East Iceland is another gateway to Vatnajökull, the largest glacier in Europe. Guided tours to the north and east part of the glacier are a rare treat with ethereal landscape and unforgettable views over lava sculptures and troll-like formations from glacial eruptions.

East Iceland is fabulous for history buffs and culture fans, hikers and kayakers, leisure travelers and gourmets alike. It simply has magic. ■

Open

Sunday - thursday 9pm to 1am Friday and saturday Open9pm to 4:30am Sunday - thursday 9pm to 1am Ármúli Friday 7 | 108 Reykjavík 537 1330 and saturday 9pm| toSími 4:30am

Ármúli 7 | 108 Reykjavík | Sími 537 1330

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The Reykjanes peninsula

Nature's Gallery Did you ever imagine stepping of an aircraft at an international airport to be a stone’s throw away from exhilarating natural wonders?

Probably not, but in Iceland that airport is located on the Reykjanes peninsula, an exceptionally active geothermal area and until recently much ignored by the tourist industry. Which is really amazing as it is possibly Icelandic nature at its wildest with its barren and rugged stretches of lava fields and coarse black beaches.

A short distance away you will find ramps crisscrossing in and out of an otherworldly area with steam rising from the ground, from Gunnuhver, which marks the future geopark of hot mud springs and steam vents. Right by this area you can visit a Power Plant where Iceland’s geothermal water is harvested.

It is the area where you can easily experience the geothermal wonders of hot springs and steam vents and where you can safely look down to observe fresh magma pulsating by your feet. You will, of course, have heard about the peninsula’s most famous landmark, the Blue Lagoon, where you can enjoy bathing outside in the crisp, clean air while immersed in warm, natural, and self-renewable geothermal water.

The Power Plant Earth is an exhibition located in the Power Plant not far from the edge of Reykjanes, the Reykjanes Lighthouse and Bridge between two Continents. The location is in one of Iceland’s most beautiful lava fields. Whether during summer’s midnight sun or winter’s northern lights, Reykjanes is an extraordinary and magical place to visit.

From the Blue Lagoon you drive the short distance to the town of Grindavík and turn towards the tip of the peninsula where all the natural activity is happening. It boasts the country’s best preserved volcanic craters, endless numbers of caves and expansive lava fields. By the tip you can literally take a walk between Europe and America by the acclaimed “Bridge Between two Continents.”

The Reykjanes Lighthouse is Iceland’s oldest lighthouse and remarkably built on top of a crater and located by steep cliffs with a sheer fall into the ocean. The cliffs are easily accessed by light trails and really worth the short hike as they display a dizzying number of sea-birds – and a spectacular view towards the Atlantic Ocean horizon. ■

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Panorama 1 hour ATV tour

Lava Beach 2 hour ATV tour

You will experience:

Trip to the Moon 3-4 hour ATV tour

You will experience:

You will experience:

Spectacular mountain view Black sandy beach and old ruins Gravel mountain road Rugged coastline

Dramatic shipwrecks Mountain Safari View over the Blue Lagoon and the island of Eldey Moss-covered lava all around

Black sandy beach where Clint Eastwood made his film Flags of Our Fathers Hot chocolate and twisted donuts Bridge between two continents Oldest lighthouse in Iceland

Tours starts at our base: 10:00 / 12:00 / 14:00 and 17:15.

Minimum: No minimum Children: 50% discount for children under 17.

Age limit: 6 years old but driver´s license is required for ATV driver..

Tours starts at our base: 12:00 and 14:00.

Minimum: No minimum.

Children: Under 17 get a 50% discount.

Age limit: 6 years old but driver´s license is required for ATV driver.

Price 9,900 ISK per person for two on a bike.

Add 3,000 ISK per person for a single bike.

Price 16,900 ISK per person for two people on a bike.

Add 3,500 ISK for a bike for a single person.

Volcanic Safari 6-7 hour ATV tour

Tours starts at our base: 10:00.

Minimum: No minimum.

Children: Under 17 get a 50% discount.

Age limit: 6 years old but driver´s license is required for ATV driver.

Price 22,000 ISK per person for two people on a bike.

Add 5,000 ISK for a bike for a single person.

You will experience: Seltún thermal area Gunnuhver hot spring Volcanic craters all around Bird cliffs Black sandy beaches

Tours starts at our base: 10:00.

Minimum: No minimum.

Children: Under 17 get a 50% discount.

Age limit: 6 years old but driver´s license is required for ATV driver.

Price 42,000 ISK per person for two people on a bike.

Add 10,000 ISK for a bike for a single person.

Pick-up in Reykjavík or Keflavík costs 3,400 ISK per person.

Pick-up for 1-hour tour is 8:30 / 10:30 / 12:30 and 15:45.

Pick-up for 2-hour tour is 12:00 and 14:00.

Pick-up for 3 to 4-hour tour is 8:30.

Pick-up for 6 to 7-hour tour is 8:30.

We are located just five minutes from the Blue Lagoon so after all our tours you can relax in the Blue Lagoon no extra cost for transfer just admission fee to the Blue Lagoon.

After all our tours you can go to the Airport for no extra cost call us for more info.

We are only 5 min. from the Blue Lagoon.

20 min. from Keflavík Airport.

40 min. from Reykjavík city centre.

ATV ADVENTURES ICELAND

Lavatours.is - info@atv4x4.is - +354-857-3001

ATV ADVENTURES ICELAND REYKJAVÍK living 87

From Dawn till Dusk Brúin Restaurant in Grindavík is all about service The Reykjanes peninsula is fast becoming one of the most popular tourist destinations in Iceland. With its bubbling geothermal activity, the steep cliffs adorned with bird life, and the horizon of the Atlantic Ocean, this stunning piece of nature has hitherto been a rather well kept secret.

The road leads from the Blue Lagoon through the town of Grindavík, which has until recently been somewhat of a sleepytown with no place to have a meal, a cup of coffee or a refreshing drink. Quite curious, actually, as Grindavík has an amazing golf-course, one of the best camping sites in Iceland and is surrounded by an area rich with lava formations and caves.

SaltyTours

But better days are ahead. A brand new restaurant/café, Brúin, opened recently in Grindavík. It is excellent for receiving large and small groups, as well as individuals passing through as it can easily seat 200 guests.

Brúin is primarily a fish-restaurant with a view over the active harbour-life and is located by the mound, Miðaftanhóll, inhabited by the elves. Brúin offers excellent services. It opens at seven in the morning for a breakfast buffet, then goes on to serving lunch. In the afternoon you can get light meals and cakes and in the evening they offer delicatessens from the menu. The grill is open to eight o‘clock in the evening and the bar to ten o‘clock. ■

THE ROADS LESS TRAVELED

Reykjanes peninsula of Volcanoes Lava and the Blue lagoon spa

Fjords Valleyes and Waterfalls, the charming West Iceland

Tour on other worldly landscape of moss covered lava fields, dormant volcanoes and boiling mud pools.

Drive along stunning coastline, black lunar landscape with endless photo opps and local fishing town. The tour ends at the Blue lagoon spa with optional stop.

Mondays and Fridays, pickup from hotels.

Book tours at saltytours.is or call +354 820 5750.

Small groups

We drive through pastoral valleys, past majestic fjords and visit historical sites along the way. Spectacular waterfalls dot the landscape. You will have an opportunity to meet a farmer and learn about her efforts to save the unique Icelandic Goat. The tour is every Sunday at 9:00, pickup from hotels.

Book tours at saltytours.is or call +354 820 5750.

Small groups.

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WELCOME TO OUR TRULY SPECIAL WORLD BOOK YOUR TICKET ONLINE & SAVE TIME FOR RELAXING bluelagoon.com

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South Iceland The Geological Wonderland South Iceland is a region of contrasts. With pristine white glaciers, sands black as coal – fertile farmlands, barren moors– saphire green forests, blue mountains – and then fabulous waterfalls, hot springs and geysers.

South Iceland owes its diversity to the fact that the majority of the island‘s volcanoes are located along the south coast. Most of them are still active and from time to time display majestic eruptions with red hot lava bleeding from the core, constantly reshaping the surface. But it doesn‘t stay the same for long as other forces of nature – weather, rivers, glaciers – keep chiseling away, sculpting new landscape, new scenery.

A curious place It may sound hostile and inaccessible, but don‘t forget that Icelanders have been living there for a thousand years and then some. They have learnt to respect and enjoy the powerful nature.

They know when to stay put and when to embark on expeditions into the mythical wilderness. They love their nature; its colours, its texture, its views, its nakedness. Especially attractive are the highlands – easily accessible from various places in the south – 90 REYKJAVÍK living

a curious place for those interested in geology. The highlands contain a vast number of geysers, natural hot tubs, and endless mountains and rock formations.

Many find hiking the ideal way to observe and enjoy such a geologically young landscape and indeed the view from many a mountain top is breathtaking, unveiling a rainbow of colours from the vast number of minerals collected from the earth‘s core throughout the centuries. Resting on a mountain top, reading the land, is pure joy.

But, there are other ways as well. Horses, snowmobiles, and specially adapted trucks provide an easy access to the Icelandic wilderness and you will find quite a range of companies equipped to take you on a guided tour into the mountains.

Glacier experience South Iceland has a vast number of hiking trails crisscrossing through mountains and valleys, moors and across rivers, as well as horse trails and jeep trails. It also has exciting rivers for rafting as well as lakes for rowing and fishing.

The region also holds the majority of the glaciers found in Ice­ land, among them the famous Eyjafjallajökull and Vatnajökull, the biggest glacier in Europe, located within the Vatnajökull National Park. Expeditions onto the glacier are quite an experience and on offer to tourists. The glacial landscape with its menacing peaks and bottomless voids is worth many a photo moment. And when driving south of this magnificent glacier, be sure to take a break at Jökulsárlón, the glacier lagoon and take a half hour boat trip that wends its way in a specially designed craft between the massive blocks of ice in the awsome stillness of the lagoon.

Tales of ruin and healing People living in South Iceland are friendly and hospitable. They all have tales to tell of surviving the ever changing and rich

nature, of forces of ruin, forces of healing. They have learnt to harness these forces for agriculture and horticulture, thus producing fresh and organic ingredients for restaurants, bistros and cafés found throughout the area.

Accommodation is not a problem in the south. Ranging from luxurly hotels, to Open Farms to cottages and camping sites, you will be taken good care of. Laundry service is usually on site and wherever you stay you‘ll find a grocery store, a geothermal swimming-pool, a golf course and a wonderful museum just a short distance away. ■ REYKJAVÍK living 91

Nature

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Art

History

www.photo.is - Kjartan Sigurðsson

Árborg

Sanctuary of the South

THE ÁRBORG REGION consists of three of Southern Iceland´s most interesting spots – the thriving town of Selfoss and two small villages, Eyrarbakki and Stokkseyri.

The area offers numerous options for recreation and relaxation, while the unusual landscape, a fascinating mix of vast lava fields and beaches of black volcanic sand, provides a lovely backdrop to any trip. Visitors can enjoy a wide selection of restaurants, cafés, galleries, museums and swimming pools, along with a nine-hole golf course in Selfoss.

SELFOSS is the main service centre in the South and approximately 50 km from the capital Reykjavík. In addition to a variety of restaurants and shops, this friendly town has an outdoor swimming pool with a steam bath and hot tubs – perfect after a long day of travelling! A little to the north are the woodlands of Hellisskógur, scattered with footpaths by the Ölfusá river. All types of accommodation are available.

For more tourist information visit the Tourist Information Centre in the Public Library.

Tourist Information Centre Selfoss

EYRARBAKKI used to have South Iceland´s most important harbour. The Eyrarbakki Maritime Museum is therefore a popular attraction along with the Árnessýsla Folk Museum, located in “the House”, a legendary building dating back to 1765. In fact, a visit to Eyrarbakki is like going back 100 years or so in time, thanks to a large number of preserved houses from 1890 - 1920. In Eyrarbakki is a splendid restaurant, campsite, tourist information and guided tours at Staður and a beautiful black beach. To the North West is the Flói Bird Reserve, perfect for hiking and bird watching.

STOKKSEYRI is another village renowned for its unusual seashore. Maintaining its rich heritage of handcrafts and cultural life, Stokkseyri is home to a number of workshops and galleries, not to mention the Wildlife Museum, the Ghost Centre and the Icelandic Wonders (the Elves, Trolls and Northern Lights Museum) and the Hunting Museum. The bunkhouse “Þuríðarbúð” gives you a taste of what life was like for the fishermen in the old days. Stokkseyri has a splendid seafood restaurant, an outdoor swimming pool, kayak tours, a campsite and a wonderful black lava beach. ■

in the Public Library Austurvegur 2, 800 Selfoss www.tourinfo.arborg.is

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Become a Friend FRIENDS of Vatnajökull is a nonprofit fund-raising association for Vatnajökull National Park. The role of the association is to raise funds to support research, as well as promotional and educational activities, to ensure that as many people as possible can enjoy the natural and historical phenomena the National Park has to offer.

The FRIENDS of Vatnajökull Association's policy is to support projects through its grant fund that are geared towards increasing public awareness of the National Park; fostering closer cooperation between the various districts that make up the National Park; the interplay of outdoor activities, culture and the Vatnajökull National Park; boosting children and young people's connection with nature; globally disseminating a great-

er understanding of the importance of the Vatnajökull National Park and its unique nature in the world.

The objective of the FRIENDS of Vatnajökull Association is to attract as many members as possible and to be a financially independent association, which will significantly contribute to projects in the fields of research, education and promotion.

Friends of Vatnajökull have published various materials on the work of the organization as well as the National Park. You can find some of the published materials here to the left, as well as information about the book Vatnajökull National Park - A Guidebook which has just been published in English, German and Icelandic. Anyone can become a Friend! ■

The Eastern Trading Post For centuries, the people in the easternmost part of SouthIceland had no local trading centre. Not until 1861 when one was opened in Papós. Still, it wasn‘t quite right and in 1897 it was relocated. The buildings in Papós were dismantled and moved to Hornafjörður. A part of the wood was moved by land, through treacherous passes and unsure tracks as there were no actual roads to be found. The rest was sent by a large raft, specially built for the task and towed by three rowing boats – out into the open seas, before turning into Hornafjarðarós.

In old texts there are vague references to trading by German merchants in the 16th century. Oral history states that their shops were located where Gamlabúð now stands. This trade ended in the 17th century with the Danish-Icelandic Trade Monopoly.

The building was reassembled at Hafnarvik which marks the beginning of the town now named Höfn. The building it self was named Gamlabúð, or Old Stores and was Höfn‘s main shop until 1937. The 150 year old house was moved again in 2012 to provide a focal point for tourist services where tourists can get useful information about the area and visit Vatnajökull National Park Visitor Centre.

The settlement of Höfn was a modest place at the start of the 20th century. But, Gamlabúð (Old Stores) served as a trading station for a large area, from Suðursveit eastwards to Lón. In autumn this quiet community was buzzing with live with the arrival of horse-trains and herds of sheep. Adults exchanged greetings and news as children, being a curious lot, observed their every word, their every gesture, their every move. ■

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In the hayday of Gamlabúð at the start of the 20th century, Plássið was the commercial heart if the village – a small open space bounded by Gamlabúð, Kaupmannshúsið and Hafnarvík harbour.

Frost and Fire The Hotel by the hot springs Surrounded by bubbling hot springs, a murmuring river and fauna quite exceptional for Iceland, Frost og Funi (Frost and Fire) Hotel in the town of Hveragerði is most certainly an experience you would not want to miss. And, where better to relax and reload your batteries than in this elegant bossom of natural wonders.

Frost and Fire is an exceptionally well equipped Hotel to receive individuals, couples on a romantic weekend, family gatherings, business-meetings, and both large and small groups. All facilities are designed for relaxation and comfort, with a twelve-metre swimming pool, a natural sauna and two hot-tubs by the river bank. After dipping in to the warm river Varmá you can even have a nice massage at the facilities. It also has a fully equipped meeting room and is thus ideal for business-meetings where the utmost concentration is needed.

The Hotel is quite pleasing to the eye. Everything you see in the Restaurant has been made by the foremost Icelandic designers; be it cups and plates, furniture and lighting and even the tableclothes. The Restaurant is decorated by and Icelandic painter who has painted steam clouds on walls and ceilings.

The Restaurant is lovely, serving tasty and attractive food.

Breakfasts are largely made from quality organic farm produce.

For the menu, choice smoked trout, a traditional cottace delicacy is from an exclusive supplier in the region. The eggs are harvested from free-range Icelandic hens and vegetable come from geothermally heated, environment-friendly greenhouses. And don‘t miss the home-made rye-bread baked in one of the hotsprings. You can also boil your eggs in the hot-spring in front of the guesthouse for breakfast.

The restaurant offers a la carte menu. The chef applies the slow-cooking methods and most of the ingredients come from the local farmers.

Frost and Fire is a welcoming Hotel, oozing with warmth, lovely scents from the flowers and the trees in the garden, and has lot to offer to all the senses. ■

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By Nature's Mercy Rangarþing eystra is a serene and beautiful municipality in south Iceland. Driving along the south coast one can hardly imagine it to be the home to Eyjafjallajökull volcano, which a few years ago halted all flights in middle and northern Europe. Emerald green, no trace of ash or fire to be seen, it is hard to visualise centuries of raging volcanic activity in the area. Still, it is home to Iceland‘s most ferocious volcanoes – and a close neighbour to the rest.

It is precisely those active forces which make the area infinitely interesting for the traveller. It is the entrance to the most loved areas in the highlands, Þórsmörk being the most popular. The hiking trail from Skógar to Þórsmörk was all but obliterated during the Eyjafjallajökull eruption but has now been reclaimed.

Without doubt it is one of the most interesting and memorable hiking trails in Iceland. Starting by the beautiful Skógarfoss, it takes you into the moors where several more breathtaking waterfalls are to be found.

But, this interesting municipality is much more than ice and fire.

It is the setting for the epic Njálssaga, the Saga most revered by the Icelanders. And in the town of Hvolsvöllur you‘ll find the Saga Centre which offers a unique opportunity to explore the vast and fascinating world of the Sagas; a world of mythology, ocean voyages and the discovery of new lands.

Rangárþing eystra is also home of the great Skógar Folk Museum and the gateway to the Westman Islands, with the island‘s ferry docking in Landeyjahöfn.

Further, Rangarþing eystra is part of the Katla Geopark, Iceland‘s most volcanically active area. With over 150 volcanic eruptions since the 9th century. A visit to Katla Geopark is highly recommended as it offers great possibilities to experience a true adventure. ■

Bring your family Fosstún Apartment Hotel in Selfoss is an excellent choice for all travellers When travelling, it is nice to be in control of one‘s destinations.

In your own car, or a rental car, you can stay away from grumpy weather, enjoy the naked beauty of the Lady Mountain – as Icelanders name their country when they are being poetic. The south of Iceland is quite mild all year around and to really enjoy your stay economically you might like to know about an amazing apartment hotel in Selfoss.

Fosstún Apartment Hotel has very well equipped apartments.

It is smack in the centre of town, a stone‘s throw away from an excellent grocery store and has plenty parking space for your car.

It has everything you need for your own cooking – and washing.

The apartments, family sized or with a double room, are spacious and comfortable, with comfortable mattresses, a large 96 REYKJAVÍK living

bathroom, and a kitchenette with all the applicances you‘ll need.

It is most certainly an ideal place to stay if you are travelling with children. It is a home away from home.

Breakfast is not served – but when you book your apartment, you can order breakfast to be delivered to your fridge.

The backside of the apartments faces south and west providing the guests with exquisite sunsets from the balcony or the veranda, during the long and leisurely summer nights. Fosstún Apartment Hotels is located a short distance from an exceptionally family-friendly swimming-pool where children and grownups can have a lot of fun or just relax in the hot-tubs.

See www.fosstun.is and plan your next trip to Iceland. ■

The Magical Mystery Tour Jökulsárlón is one place you would not want to miss in Iceland The Glacier Lagoon, Jökulsárlón, is possibly the most filmed location in Iceland. First seen in the opening scene of the James Bond film „A View to a Kill“ in 1985, it started attracting tourists from all over the world. But, they didn‘t just want to look at it. They wanted to experience it. The community around the lagoon realized the potential in fulfilling their visitors wishes and started sailing small boats among the huge icebergs floating in the lagoon, often going near enough to the glacier itself to watch the gigantic bergs breaking away.

It started gradually, but soon caught up pace and during the summer 2012 about 80.000 visitors went on a boat-trip in with the company Jökulsárlón ehf. which has been taking tourists sailing among the majestic Icebergs for over 25 years.

Pristine and otherworldly The Lagoon is located in the eastern part of South Iceland by Breiðamerkurjökull, on of the glaciers forming Vatnajökull, the biggest glacier in Europe. It started forming after 1930 and today it measures 25 square kilometers. The depth being 250 metres making the lagoon the deepest lake in Iceland. It is ever changing as 200 metres break away from the glacier each year.

The wildlife around the Jökulsárlón is rich indeed. It is a great place for bird-lovers to inspect a variety of birds close up, and in the lagoon a variety of fish, such as trout and salmon. All this wildlife attracts seals often seen floating on the icebergs or swimming in the lagoon.

Jökulsárlón is a magical place. The ice being over a thousand years old it is amazingly pristine and otherworldly as it takes on a quite a variety of the color blue.

Get a closer look Two types of boats are in use to take visitors sailing around this tranquil world. An Amphibian where the trip starts on land. The boat is driven into the lagoon where a guide explains the lagoon, its neighborhood and the wildlife while sailing between the magnificent icebergs. Or, to get an even better view and closer to the glacier, you can take a Zodiac trip where the captain serves as a guide. The Zodiac trips are not recommended for children under the age of ten.

On the premises is a lovely café where tickets for the boat trip are sold. Naturally the lagoon is there to see all year round and just gazing at it is absolutely awesome. Jökulsárlón is truly one place in Iceland you would not want to miss. And sailing there is surely the magical mystery tour. The café has fixed opening hours, from June to August is 09.00 to 19.00; in April-May and September to October from 10.00 to 17.00. More information at www.icelagoon.is ■ REYKJAVÍK living 97

The Golden Circle The Golden Circle is the name given to a 190 mile (300 kilometer) circular route which emcompasses many of Iceland’s most famous landmarks. The Golden Circle can easily be completed in one day, either by renting a car or going as part of a group (tours depart every day from Reykjavik). There are also hotels and campsites en route for people who wish to take longer. In addition to sites like the greenhouses at Hveragerdi, the huge pseudo-crater Kerid, and the church at Skalholt, the center of Christianity in Iceland from the mid-11th until the 18th centuries, there are three major points of interest on the Golden Circle.

Geysir The English word geyser comes from Icelandic. Though the word refers to all geysers in general, it comes from a single geyser (in fact, the geyser) located in the South West of Iceland.

Unfortunately, the Geysir has been somewhat shy in recent decades. When Geysir does perform, once or twice a year, it lives up to its name, spewing a jet of steaming water 200 feet skyward.

Far more reliable, though less spectacular, is nearby Strokkur, which spouts a 60-100 foot jet about once every five minutes.

The geyser area is also rich in walking paths that lead past steaming vents and colorful, mineral-rich mud formations.

Gullfoss Gullfoss, meaning “Golden Falls” with its 105-foot double-cascade into the churning Hvita glacial river is one of the highlights of the Golden Circle and Europe’s largest waterfall. On a sunlit 98 REYKJAVÍK living

day, the mist clouds surrounding the thundering falls are filled with dozens of rainbows, providing an unparalleled spectacle of color and motion. In winter, ice around the edges of the falls freezes to form magical shapes of ice and snow.

Thingvellir In 930 AD, while most of Europe was mired in feudalism and conflict, chieftains in Iceland gathered in a natural amphitheater to the north and west of Reykjavik and formed what is often referred to as the world’s first parliament, the Althing. The meeting place was called Thingvellir (“parliament plains”), and over the next 300 years representatives journeyed here once a year to elect leaders, argue cases, and settle disputes - sometimes peacefully, sometimes not.Today, Thingvellir National Park remains the ultimate symbol of Iceland’s independence and unity, a landscape inseparable from the national soul.

The founders of the Althing could hardly have chosen a more appropriate place to meet. Thingvellir tells the story of Iceland’s land as much as it does its people. Nowhere in the country is there a landscape that better vocalizes the geologic history of Iceland. In Thingvellir, you can stand on a bluff and see the Mid-Atlantic ridge as it carves its way north and east into the island’s interior. ■

More Iceland for less money

Blue Lagoon Schedule Pickup at hotel in Reykjavik upon request 09:00 / 10:30 / 12:30 / 14:45 / 16:45

Blue Lagoon to Reykjavik 12:30 / 14:00* / 16:00 / 18:00 / 20:30 Blue Lagoon to Keflavik Airport 14:00 / 21:00**

• Please book in advance.

* Via Keflavik Airport

• Be ready in front of your hotel.

Pickup can take up to 30 min.

** From 15. June – 15. Sept.

The South Coast - Skógafoss - Vík

Grand Golden Circle

Golden Circle Afternoon

Our tour takes us along the south shore and on to the charming village of Vík. Highlights on this tour: Waterfalls Skógafoss and Seljalandsfoss. The basalt columns at sandy beach of Reynis- fjara and the glacier Sólheimajökull, where you can touch the ice. We drive along the volcano Eyjafjallajökull, last eruption in 2010.

Highlights visited: The farming districts in the south, Faxi waterfall and the spectacular Geysir. The waterfall Gullfoss, the national park Thingvellir, including the Rift valley and the Rock of law which was the site of the first Viking parliament.

Time for lunch at Geysir (not incl. in price).

Highlights visited: The national park Thingvellir, the waterfall Gullfoss and the spectacular Geysir.

Pick up time: Mon/Wed/Fri at 08:00 Duration: 10 hours Professional English guidance

Pick up time: Daily at 08:00 Duration: 8 hours Professional English guidance

Pick up time: Daily at 12:30 Duration: 5-6 hours Professional English guidance

Please notice: You can join The Blue Lagoon evening tour after arrival.

Explore the unique volcanic and arctic nature of Iceland

Tel: +354 511 2600

E-mail: bustravel@bustravel.is

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The Museum at Skógar shows you how The history of surviving unruly natural forces for centuries Contemporary Icelanders often wonder how their forebears survived the unpredictable winters and short summers, the eruptions and earthquakes. Before harnessing the geothermal powers, without electricity and modern day technology, how on earth did they manage?

Skógar Folk Museum, the biggest folk museum in Iceland, goes a long way to answer those questions. With a vast collection of tools and equipment applied on land and sea, clothing, furniture, handicraft, old buildings, books, manuscripts and documents, the secrets of centuries gone by are revealed. The latest addition to the museum is the Museum of Transport, bridging the development from the dark ages to modern times.

A visit to Skógar Folk Museum is pure joy which even children love at every turn. Just make sure to give yourself ample time for the visit. A day at the museum, which has a lovely café/bistro, is a day well spent.

riding and traveling, for building houses, for milking and creating dairy products. This hall bears witness to the innovative and creative element, as well as the endurance of the Icelandic soul.

Three collections

Architecture and Communication

In the Museum building you‘ll find the Maritime Hall with a treasured fishing boat and nautical equipments of old, artifacts of mysterious sources, whalebone craftsmanship, utensils used at sea and carved timber from much loved and well cared for boats designed for the arctic oceans.

On the premises is also an excellent collection of buildings.

With the reconstructed turf farmhouse, built from driftwood and stones, the roofs covered with stone slabs, then turfed; and the old and amazingly small timber houses, school and church, everything furnished according to the correct era complete with bed linens, knick-knacks and artifacts.

In the same building is the Crafts museum with its examples of embroidery and weaving, horn and wood carvings, metal – and leatherwork. From dainty lace to coarse wool, from needles and knives to riding gear. Designs and workmanship were created by candle light and oil lamps during the darkness of winter days.

And the winters were long.

The Agricultural Hall exhibits tools and equipment used for harnessing the near unhabitable land. From homemade kitchen utensils to the blacksmith‘s tools, equipment for haymaking, 100 REYKJAVÍK living

The aforementioned Museum of Transport is quite unique in Iceland. It tells the story of travel and communication from the year 1900. The first cars, the first agricultural machines, how telecommunication develops during the next decades. And of course, it contains equipment from the absolutely important history of Search and Rescue on sea and land in Iceland.

The Museum is open throughout the year. For opening hours and further information, go to www.skogasafn.is ■

4 x 4 DAY TOURS YOU’LL LOVE THE THINGS WE DO – JUST TO PLEASE YOU! Thrilling all-day excursions through the spectacular nature of Iceland.

A combination of our rough terrain and natural wonders.

Golden Circle and Snowmobiling.

South Coast and Eyjafjallajokull by 4x4.

Glacier Lagoon and the South Coast.

High and Mighty ½ day tour departing twice a day.

For further information and booking | +354 660 1499 | www.superjeep.is Follow us on facebook for live coverage from our trips, inside info and fun facts!

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VATNAJÖKU LSÞJÓ Ð G A R Ð U R NATIONAL PARK

We are proud to welcome you to Vatnajökull National Park!

Vatnajökull National Park is Iceland’s newest protected area, established in 2008.

With a total area of roughly 13,900 km2 it is by far the largest national park in Iceland as well as in Western Europe.

Key features of the park are the ice cap of the Vatnajökull Glacier (8,200 km2) and several highly active volcanic systems within and outside the ice cap. The interplay of ice and fire is the single most important force in shaping the nature of the park.

As a result, one can find in one place an unparalleled range of volcanic-, geothermal- and other landscape features.

We offer information at our three Visitor Centres, Gljúfrastofa, Snæfellsstofa and Skaftafellsstofa. Information Centres are situated at Kirkjubæjarklaustur and Höfn.

More information at our website www.vjp.is

Gljúfrastofa

GLJÚFRASTOFA

Ásbyrgi Hljóðaklettar Dettifoss

Snæfellsstofa

Egilsstaðir

SNÆFELLSSTOFA Askja Kverkfjöll

Snæfell

Skaftafellsstofa

©Ragnar Th. Sigurðsson

Höfn Reykjavík

Eldgjá Laki Kirkjubæjarklaustur

Skaftafell

GAMLABÚÐ Jökulsárlón

SKAFTAFELLSSTOFA Gamlabúð

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©Guðmundur Ögmundsson

©Guðmundur Ögmundsson

Dettifoss

© Skarphéðinn G. Þórisson

Svartifoss

©Regína Hreinsdóttir

©Guðmundur Ögmundsson

Hiking Geldingafell, Snæfell in the distance

Morsárdalur

©Einar Ragnar Sigurðsson

Langisjór

For more information on Vatnajokull National Park, please visit our website www.vjp.is

PORT hönnun

Askja and Lake Öskjuvatn

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We serve food!

Safe and Friendly Horses

Our fine menu includes a variety of delicious courses.

We welcome groups in our hall seating up to 70 people.

Restaurant Vetingahús

opið frá kl. 11.30 - 23.30

Skólavegur 1, Vestmannaeyjar - Tel.: 481 3160 Open 11:30-23:30. E-mail: cafemaria@simnet.is

Horse Rental Fun for children Horses for Everybody Beautiful Nature Near Stórhöfði - www.123.is/lyngfell Tel: 898-1809 / 481-1509 - Palli and Ása

Erum með fjölbreyttan matseðil Bjóðum einnig upp á veislusal sem tekur 70 manns í sæti Saður með stæl - sími 481 3160

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Vestmannaeyjar from Landeyjahöfn In 2010, a new harbor – Landeyjahöfn – was constructed on the mainland coast south of Hvolsvöllur, just 11 km from Heimaey. When weather and harbor conditions permit, Herjólfur will operate on this much shorter run, making four or five return journeys daily. Fares are lower on this faster route, and the one-way trip requires approximately 30 minutes. Buses from Reykjavik to Landeyjahöfn via Selfoss are operated by Sterna. www.herjolfur.is

The Wonders of Westman Islands Where Nature is constantly busy playing its Symphony If you go to the Westman Islands – as you should – be sure to stay for more than one day. The fifteen islands are a natural wonder with just one of them, Heimaey, inhabited and buzzing with activity. The islanders, considered by other Icelanders as exceptionally joyous, fun-loving pranksters, make their living from the sea and always have. It is all too easy to fall in love with life and nature in the Westman Islands and get addicted to their musical disposition.

Heimaey sports a perfect natural harbour walled in by tall cliffs loaded with puffins, fulmars and guillemots. You might be able to catch one of the local men hopping expertly from ledge to ledge collecting eggs, attached to a lifeline held by an anchor man at the top of the cliff.

Active volcanic area The real treat though, is a boat trip round the islands with their sheer basalt cliffs colourful caves and eroded arches rising out of the deap sea. The islands are part of a young – and still active – submarine volcanic system, the youngest of them being Surtsey which erupted from the sea floor in 1963.

The most famous Westman Island eruptions, however, was on the inhabited island of Heimaey in 1973, burying almost 400 buildings. All the inhabitants were evacuated in a matter of hours – but as the eruption subsided most of them moved back „home.“ Obviously the remains of the eruption are among the island‘s most fascinating historical attractions.

Active life-style It is quite easy to get to the Westman Islands by air or sea. You will most certainly enjoy the trip, whether you want to play golf on the island‘s breathtaking 18-hole golf-course, embark on deep sea fishing, bird and whale watching, go hiking up volcanoes, over a lava field or along the shoreline – or just roam around the wonderful natural history and folk museums.

The islanders‘ hospitality is legendary and you‘ll find a variety of cafés and restaurants as well as any type of accommodation you might be looking for, including camping sites, b&bs, hostels and hotels. Have fun! ■ REYKJAVÍK living 105

Great Forces Kötlusetur, the local information and cultural centre, is located in the old part of the village in a beautifully renovated house. It has a most interesting exhibition on display, named Gott og vont strand in Icelandic, or approximately translated „Well or Badly stranded,“ telling the history of shipping disasters along the south coast of Iceland. No part of Iceland has seen more ships stranded through the ages. A good strand was when all on board the ship survived and the pickings for the farmers ashore made quite a difference. A bad strand was when some or all aboard drowned and the pickings were nothing to write home about.

By the volcano Another curious exhibition is Mýrdalur which explains nature and living in the proximity of the great Katla. Though always on the alert, the inhabitants are easy-going and friendly, thoroughly enjoying this beautiful location, constantly being recreated by fires and molded by the ocean.

During the summer of 2013 Kötlusetur offers a daily walking tour around the village. The walk, named Meeting the Locals, takes one hour and the guests will get to know the village‘s history and be shown how to catch fulmars and puffins. The tour ends with a visit to a gallery, where the guests can get to know the local glass-artist and her work.

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Photos: Þórir Níels Kjartansson.

Vík í Mýrdal is a lovely town to visit. In spite of being located just south of the menacing volcano Katla, and by the raging Atlantic Ocean, it is a tranquil and easy-going community with a lot to offer visitors all year round.

At Kötlusetur you can get information on all the fun things to do in Vík. The staff is helpful and friendly and will be pleased to help you organize your day, providing you with maps, booklets and pamphlets to make you well equipped before you embark on a tour around this mythical area.

Tranquility and Adventure Vík í Mýrdal has an excellent four-star hotel, a beautiful camping ground and a variety of hostels open all year round. There are very nice restaurants – and the only par-6 golf course in Iceland, of which there are only five in the whole of Europe. The local weather is mild all year round and it is rather lovely to take a stroll along the beach or a hike to the top of the local mountain, Reynisfjall, where you can see the Atlantic Ocean stretch forever.

Vík is the place to go to realize your inner strength.

For the truly adventurous tourists, Kötlusetur Culture and Information Centre works closely with all tour companies in the area, especially Arcanum which offers guided trips to the mountains, glaciers and volcanoes cradling Vík in their bosom. ■

c i g a The M

Soup

and divine

lobster

i r y e s k k rant Sto

Fj

u a t s e R ð i öruborð

Eyrarbraut 3, 825 Stokkseyri · Tel. 483 1550 · Fax. 483 1545 · info@fjorubordid.is · www.fjorubordid.is

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Blessed by Fortune Our very own, Kristinn Sigmundsson bass opera singer has conquered the international stage His magnificent voice and majestic presence has conquered the Opera Houses in Europe and USA – and now he is off to Asia.

Our foremost bass opera singer, Kristinn Sigmundsson, has enjoyed an international career for over two decades. Appearing recularly at Metropolitan, Covent Garden, L‘Opéra de Paris, Staatsoper Vienna, Staatsoper Münich, Strasburg and the San Francisco Opera, he is now quite in demand in Asia. In fact, Kristinn‘s schedule is fully booked until the year 2016.

In January 2013 Kristinn was appearing in Tokyo for his second time. The first visit was in 2010, when he also made his debut in Hong Kong – while Europe‘s air space was closed due to the Eyjafjallajöll eruption. „My prospects were not looking good as I was flying via London and Heathrow Airport had been closed for days. But, on this particular day it was open for a few hours and then closed again one or two hours after I got airborn to Hong Kong. It was quite extraordinary.“

Still, he hasn‘t forgotten his own and regularly gives concerts in Iceland – where he also lives – (formerly) accompanied by the wonderful piano-player, Jonas Ingimundarson, but lately also by the piano virtuoso, Víkingur Heiðar Ólafsson with whom he recently recorded Schubert‘s „Winterreise.“

Different cultures

A strange experience When asked if he isn‘t tiring of constantly travelling the world, Kristinn says „absolutely not“ and goes on to explain: „What makes it so much fun is to constantly meet old friends. Those are rare perfomances where I don‘t know someone in the cast. It is so much like a high-school reunion.“

As Kristinn reminisces, his fondness of Asia is quite apparent.

So, after nearly three decades on the opera stage, it is curious to know if the audience 's differ in Asia from USA and Europe. „Singing in Asia is fantastic. The audience is so expressive and enthusiastic. Of course, those interested in the opera are just a small part of each nation – but their interest is so intense, bordering on cultish. Upon leaving the opera house after a perfomance, one has to allow for at least half an hour for a photo session and autograph signing.

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Singing in the US is always great. Opera interest is not widespread, but those who are interested make quite a sturdy group. They always take excellent care of the singers. They have a knack for making one feel really worth something.

Those working for the opera societies always do their best.

Every step of the way it is apparent how much they love their job and they respect the opera singers‘ work.

In Europe the opera is more or less taken for granted, though it can vary. Most of the Opera Houses are government run or semigovernment run and the employees just do their job, what they are paid to do. They make sure you don‘t feel you‘re something special.“

The natural Wagnerian Kristinn has performed the majority of the opera literature throughout the years, but nowadays he is mostly performing the German (Wagner) repertoire. „It is not a decision I made. It just happened. It is as if Wagner un-knowingly composed his bass roles for me. They all seem suited for my voice. Still, I try to stick to diversity. The more diverse the roles are, the healthier the voice becomes. If the range is limited, the voice can become stiff and lose its versatility. I try to sing Bach, Verdi and Händel to keep my voice versatile.“ In spite of his magnificent voice, when young Kristinn did not plan to become an opera singer. He completed a BSc degree in biology, became a college teacher as well as singing in various choirs. „The music stayed with me at every step,“ he says, „and step by step I was turned into a singer.“

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Living in Iceland At the age of 27 he moved to Vienna, Austria with his wife and young son, where he studied at the Hochschule für Musik und darstellende Kunst, under Helene Karusso, Christian Möller and Wolfgang Gabriel; after that he studied with John Bullock in Washington, D.C. From 1989 to 1993 Kristinn held a position with the Wiesbaden Opera and then embarked on a freelance career. Still living in Germany, Kristinn was singing all over Europe and rarely at home with his family. “That’s when we decided to move back to Iceland – and we have never looked back,” says Kristinn, before adding: “Mind you, over a period of ten years I was working in Paris three or four months out of every year. If I had known it beforehand, I might have moved there. But in my line of work you never sign a contract for more than one year at a time, maybe two or three years in the future – so you never know. The same applies to San Francisco and New York. But, in spite of many wonderful places, Iceland is where I have always wanted to live, where my family has always wanted to live. Here are all my close old friends, our extended families – and then, there is the Icelandic summer.”

Next years schedule Many of Kristinn Sigmundsson’s recordings are available in record stores in Iceland and abroad. For the opera lovers who would like to experience Kristinn’s majestic stage presence, for the next year he will be appearing in Strasburg, Beijing and Toulouse this summer, performing in Tannhäuser in Strasburg, Nabucco in Beijing and Don Carlo in Toulouse. In the fall Kristinn heads to San Francisco for The Flying Dutchman and at the beginning of December returns to Strasburg for the same role. In March and April 2014 Kristinn can be found in Houston, Texas singing in Wagner’s Rhine Gold. ■

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North Iceland From the mythical to the menacing All seasons of the year are seasons of fun in North Iceland. It is an expansive, enchanting region, where you can find all of Iceland's attractive aspects; walking, hiking, swimming, golfing, fishing, horse-riding, skiing, snowmobiling, jeep-tours into the highlands, river-rafting, geothermal bathing. You’ll find arts and culture, lovely accommodation and restaurants, as well as Christmas – even in the middle of summer. During summer it is sensational, during winter it is a wonderland.

North Iceland has mountains and hot-springs, glacial rivers and majestic waterfalls, volcanic craters, picturesque lava-fields, vast highland sandscapes and other geological wonders.

Flourishing villages and farming communities, soaring mountain peaks, offshore islands and a landscape in formation make the North of Iceland a unique world of its own.

Activities through day and night In the western part of the region, volcanic forces are no longer active, and since the end of the Ice Age the landscape has been sculpted by rivers into smooth hills interspersed with some of Iceland’s finest angling rivers, especially in Húnavatnssýsla which is also home to excellent horse-breeding farms, that train horses and jocks alike. Along with Skagafjörður, this is the area 112 REYKJAVÍK living

to rent horses for an hour or for days to embark on horse-trips into the wilderness of the highlands or along the arctic coasts.

Trout fishing in the numerous lakes located on the moor between the two shires during the light summer nights is a wonderful experience. And, on the west side of the moor you’ll be delighted to find Iceland’s only country-western village at Skagaströnd, which also invites you to play golf on its spectacularly beautiful nine-hole golf course.

On either side of Eyjafjörður rise high, ancient mountain ranges opening here and there into valleys, and in the north, marine erosion has created splendid cliffs. No wonder this area is popular with mountain hikers and skiers all year round. From the beautiful Siglufjörður, south to Ólafsfjörður and Dalvík, the area is packed with possibilities for nature lovers who wish to embark on extraordinary adventures.

The diverse part Further east, fresh lava flows, fissures and gullies are clues to recent volcanic activity and the continuously restless earth. Stop by at Húsavík, home to the Whale Museum and renowned for its whale-watching tours.

North Iceland is Iceland’s most diverse region. Nature varies from the soft and mystical to the harsh and menacing. It is bursting with history, folklore and stories of human endurance.

Thus, you’ll find museums in almost every town and village, celebrating the Icelandic way of life during the centuries, the herring era and the music, the whaling and the handicrafts, the harnessing of waterfalls and the story-telling, to name but a few.

In ancient times a catastrophic glacial flood smashed through rock to gouge out the canyon of the river Jökulsá á Fjöllum and the huge sunken valley Ásbyrgi, which now form a magnificent National Park. Just a short distance away is the beautiful Lake Mývatn, famous for its picturesque natural surroundings, geothermal activity, and unique birdlife.

Unspoiled nature Most of the lowland areas have been inhabited since time immemorial by farmers and fishermen. In recent times remote spots such as the region east of Eyjafjörður, Melrakkaslétta and

Langanes in the far northeast have become largely uninhabited, but they remain popular with travelers in search of unspoiled nature and the ultimate tranquility. For those who like camping, North Iceland is quite a treat, with quite a number of beautiful and well equipped camping sites.

The Capital of the North is Akureyri; a beautiful town with picturesque old houses, a lovely Botanical Garden, excellent restaurants and cafés. Akureyri is the centre of education, culture and services in the region, offering an endless range of activities, events, arts and entertainment, all year round. Apart from traditional hotels, Akureyri has a vast range of guesthouses where you can enjoy the hospitality of the northern people, who are – in spite of harsh natural forces – exceptionally refined. ■

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Camping Place Heiðarbær in Reykjahverfi is located between Húsavík and Mývatn, 20 km away from Húsavík and 35 km from Mývatn, at the road 87.

Heiðarbær is a camping place and a parking area for caravans and dormobiles, with sanitary facilities.

Heiðarbær also has a sleeping-bag accommodation, store, swimming pool and restaurant.

Silva

Syðra-Laugaland efra in Eyjafjarðarsveit Open 11:00-21:00 every day of the week from June 1st – August 31st Open for reservations only during winter

Heiðarbær welcomes you

Open every day from 11am - 24pm.

Tel. +354 4643903 • E-mail: heidarbaer@simnet.is

Courses: Raw food Vegetarian and vegan Soup and bread Also: Hot and cold drinks Cakes and deserts Smoothies and juices Wheatgrass and ginger shots

www.silva.is - E-mail: silva@silva.is - Tel.: +0354-851 1360

Glaðheimar Blönduósi Summer houses on the edge of Blanda.

Good camping area with a service house - wc and shower.

Information office for tourists close by.

Ólafshús is a restaurant located in the heart of Sauðárkrókur We offer great variety of food for a reasonable price.

Most of our food is from Skagafjörður and we only offer food with great quality.

Address : Brautarhammur, 540. Blönduós Phone: 8201300 /6903130, Fax: 452 4589 E-mail: gladheimar@simnet.is, Homepage : www.gladheimar.is

Ólafshús Restaurant

Aðalgötu 15 550 Sauðárkrókur tel. +354 453 6454 mail. videosport@simnet.is

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Akureyri A Town of All Seasons The place to visit for an unforgettable time Akureyri is by Icelanders considered to be the most beautiful town on the island. Built on hills and mountain slopes, with the older part of the town exceptionally well preserved it is indeed picturesque. It has a lot to offer everybody. An Aviation museum, Technical museum, Motorbike museum, a Toy exhibition, an Art museum, galleries, great cafés and restaurants – and of course, a Christmas Garden open all year round.

Akureyri is also a haven for the outdoorsy types. During winter it has the best ski-resort in Iceland and during summer the longest and best bike-riding track. A walk around the town makes for a lovely pastime, as Akureyri has a sample of every architecural style ever embarked upon in Iceland through the last 150 years or so.

Flowers and the famous ice-cream In the centre of town is the lovely Botanical Garden, where the sun always seems to shine. It is colourful and tranquil and has has a wonderful aroma. There you‘ll find a sample of all the plants that have survived the Icelandic climate – and more – either outdoors or in greenhouses. And, of course, the Botanical Garden has a beautiful café, designed to match the surrounding architecture. From the garden, you can take a stroll to Brynja, the oldest and most famous ice cream shop in Iceland.

You can rent a bike for a guided tour around the town – or a mountain-bike to brave the hills and mountains surrounding Akureyri.

Historical area Akureyri and the neighbouring areas have a long and rich history, and it is exceptionally pleasant to spend a day on a guided tour around the area with its historic churches and scenic landscape. A stroll through the oldest part of town to the south of the city centre is an unforgettable experience for those interested in old houses and historical museums. There you will find the oldest house in town, Laxdalshús, now a restaurant, and most of the museums before mentioned. The area‘s culture and history is rich, and many restaurants in town give you a chance to taste the local cuisine.

Akureyri is a fantastic place to visit. With accommodations ranging from four-star hotels, through hostels, b&bs, and an amazing camping ground in the hills, one is always tempted to stay there for a longer period than originally planned. So, don‘t rush through. Treat yourself to the pleasant atmosphere of this northern town. And enjoy the food. Akureyri has a long standing as Iceland‘s best food production and food processing area in Iceland.

Throughout the surrounding area you‘ll find hiking-tracks criss-crossing the hills and the lovely local forest, Kjarnaskógur.

Located by a deep fjord, with mountains and a forest, Akureyri has attracted bird-watchers for ages and has three exceptional bird-watching houses by Krossanesborgir, Naustaborgir and by estuary of the river Eyjafjarðará. All the houses are equipped with a map of the species living in the area.

The two beautiful islands in the fjord, Hrísey and Grímsey, have recently became a part of Akureyri municipality. They also are a must to visit with a magnificent birdlife, little villages and nice hiking paths suitable for anyone. Regular ferry trips to Hrísey are carried out from Ársskógssandur harbor and to Grímsey from the village Dalvík.

During summer 2013, Akureyri is introducing some novelties, like whalewatching along the beautiful fjord of Eyjafjörður.

For further information have a look at www.visitakureyri.is/en, www.visitgrimsey.is as well as www.hrisey.net/en ■ REYKJAVÍK living 115

Allinn is a restaurant and sport bar were you can enjoy dining all from pizza to steak, herring and fish.In our 3 rooms we offer our guests to watch football matches or if your her on bissnes we cater to large groups and have grade facilities for meatings.

Allinn also offers you life music.

We hope to see you soon Aðalgata 30, 580 Siglufirði Tel: 467-1111

Welcome to our

WOOL FACTORY SHOP

in Hvammstangi

Home bakery Heimabakarí

Garðarsbraut 15, 640 Húsavík, Tel: 464 2900, Fax: 464 2902

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A Great selection of knitwear!

KIDKA

Open Monday-Friday from 8-18 and also on request

ehf

Höfðabraut 34, 530 Hvammstangi - Tel:+354 451 0060 - E-mail: kidka@simnet.is

Accommodation and Adventure In North Iceland

Bakkaflöt

ÍSLAND

Bakkaflöt-Bátafjör

Whitewater River rafting www.bakkaflot.com - Phone: 354 453 8245 / 354 453 8099 

      REYKJAVÍK living 117

West Iceland Cradle of history Weatherwise, West Iceland is the most fortunate part of the island. It is one of the most loved parts by the natives, not least for its soft and warm beauty and prominent contrasts in nature.

Though partly covered with lava and reaching into the barren highlands, most of West Iceland is quite rich and fertile, excellent for farming and great for golfing, not least under the blazing red skies of the Midnight Sun. Indeed, almost every town and village has its own golf course – no matter how small the community – ranging from nine to eighteen holes.

West Iceland is generally diveded into three main parts. In the southernmost part is Borgarbyggð, home to most of the Egil‘s Saga, with the largest birch forest in Iceland, diverse types of lava fields, crates and caves, beautiful waterfalls, and Langjökull, a glacier accessible in summertime. With its soft and warm beauty it sports hundreds of summer camps and cottages scattered around the area. During the summer the camping site at Húsafell practically transforms into the largest community in West Iceland.

West Iceland is an area where culture, nature and history merge, creating a unique experience. There you‘ll find the settings for the greatest Icelandic Sagas: Egils‘s Saga, Eyrbyggja, Laxdæla and Sturlunga. Of special interest is the Settlement Centre in Borgarnes, a heritage museum and theatre with various Saga related productions in English – as well as an excellent restaurant offering delicacies from the fertile farming areas of West Iceland.

In the middle is Snæfellsnes – home to Eyrbyggja Saga and part of Laxdæla. This georgeous peninsula, with the famous glacier Snæfellsjökull within the Snæfellsnes National Park, is supposed to be the entrance to the Centre of the Earth. Scattered around the peninsula are lovely fishing villages, tranquil fjords, majestic mountains, and the Berserk lava fields. Trips to the top of the glacier are an unforgettable experience – as is hiking through the lava filed with its lovely lakes, stunning formations and stone bridges.

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The northernmost part is Dalir, the domain of the great explorers, Eirik the Red and his son, Leifur the Lucky who was the first European to set foot in America. It is also home to the most romantic and dramatic of the Sagas, Laxdæla. The museum at Eiríksstaðir is dedicated to Eirik the Red and Leifur the Lucky – but the real treat is Laugar in Sælingsdalur – former homestead of Gudrun, the heroine of Laxdæla.

West Iceland has a lot to offer. The outdoors lovers will find endless hiking trails, from easy to hard, over moors and mountains, along the coast, through valleys, forests and lava fields. Quite a number of companies offer guided horse riding tours and guided jeep tours along the beaches or into the mountains, in addition to snowmobile tours onto the glaciers. Further, there is vast number of salmon rivers and trout lakes throughout the area, great for fishing. With great geothermal conditions, the area has vast numbers of greenhouses and outdoor swimming pools.

For the history and culture fans West Iceland contains a variety of nature and saga exhibitions and museums, as well as beautiful handicrafts and art galleries.

For a leisurely stay, West Iceland has excellent restaurants and cafés, ranging from by-the-road cafés to high quality restaurants offering fresh ingredients from the great agricultural areas in the region. There is also a vast number of geothermal outdoors swimming pools with hot tubs to relax and enjoy the warm summer days.

West Iceland offers a range of accommodations, from a variety of camping sites, to B&Bs, from cottages to guesthouses, from Open Farms to luxury hotels. ■

REYKJAVÍK living 119

Take the to experience Iceland

Horse rental

for beginners and more advanced.

In small groups and with personal service

1-2 hours trip in beautiful and eclectic nature.

Grundarfjordur, at Snaefellsnes

Phone: 891-6875 / 845-1643/ 4386875

horse breeting

Contact us for tour enquiry Phone: (+354) 578 7111 Mobile: (+354) 820 0245 or visit our webpage www.timetours.is

Bókhlöðuhöfði Stykkishólmur Opening hours 13:00 - 18:00

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A Taste of Luxury Hotel Glymur is designed to make you feel good According to Trip Advisor, Hotel Glymur is one of the best hotels in Iceland. Located a short distance from Reykjavik by the tranquil and picturesque Hvalfjörður (Whale fjord), it certainly is the place to stay when you want to feel spoilt. With large dining-room windows what better place to enjoy the spectacular midnight sun during summer and mythical northern lights during winter. Or you can dip into the hot-tub by midnight and fully experience the light nights.

Hotel Glymur is more than just a hotel. It is comprised of the hotel building and a few villas, designed to make you feel quite at home. The staff do their utmost to make you feel welcome. It is a comfortable and friendly hotel where you really experience the Icelandic hospitality.

Rooms with a view The hotel itself has 22 executive rooms. Each room is on two levels with a bathroom and a sitting room on the lower lever and the sleeping quarter on the upper level. Further, it has two large suites with massage bath-tubs, adjustable massage beds, an espresso machine, stereo equipment and a 20“ flat screens.

All rooms and suites have high-speed wireless internet access.

Each room is specially designed. They all have Italian leather fur-

niture and are decorated with unique pieces of art. All the rooms have a beautiful view, either facing the fjord or the mountains.

Luxury villas The villas are designed in two sizes. Beautifully decorated, each reflects harmony with its natural environment. The villas are luxury accommodations, designed with bedrooms, bathrooms and open space kitchens equipped with state of the art appliances. With large leather sofas, large screen TV, dining space and beautiful pieces of art, one can‘t help but feel quite pampered.

Each villa has a veranda with a hot-tub, accessible from the bathrooms. Daily maintenance, bed linen, bathroom robes and towels are included. They of course have a phone connection to the hotel building and receive room service and catering for meals from the renowned Hotel Glymur Restaurant and drinks from the bar.

You can do your own cooking in the villas, but the advice is to try the hotel‘s wonderful menu during your stay, either in the light and airy dining-room or at your own leisure in the villa.

The gourmet chefs are simply excellent at producing mouthwatering dishes from the best ingredients available at any given time. See more at www.hotelglymur.is ■ REYKJAVÍK living 121

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The Lax-a camp, the first ever hunting- and fishing camp in Greenland.

Arctic char paradise

Greenland Greenland is large, empty, rough and pure. Fjords with icebergs, mighty green slopes with low bushes and big stones, the ice cap, glaciers and a single settlement form the fabulous decor. Furthermore, there is nothing except reindeer and arctic char, the finest and strongest kind of trout, of which you can catch by the dozen a day. A paradise for fly fishermen.

Text and photography: Nico de Boer

“What is the best and finest fly fishing in the world?” is the question I often get asked. Through the years, I have been to many famous fishing places on earth.

Time and again I am impressed by both the location and the fishing. Fascinated by the brown and rainbow trout in New Zealand. Passionate about steelhead fishing in British Columbia, Canada. Crazy about fishing with the ‘riffle hitch’ method for salmon in Iceland. Overcome by the subtlety of the grayling fishing in Norway. Seized by the giant sea trout in Patagonia, Argentina. I fished on the Kola Peninsula in Russia, chased bonefish in the Bahamas, fly fished for tuna in South Africa and many other species all over the world.

I visited Greenland in the 1980s, and fished for the first time for ‘sea run arctic char’ as the migratory species is called in English, the name that is also in our language most commonly used. From that moment on I was in love with this fish and its habitat, but maybe that's an understatement, and is ‘obsessed’ a better expression. What a beauty! A super sleek body. Beautiful white edged fins. Fabulous colours, ranging from serene silver to dazzling orange. With an

The arctic char in Greenland has beautiful colours, ranging from serene silver to dazzling orange.

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Greenland is truly the place for a real adventurer.

Fascinating sight – reindeer on the run.

The arctic char is the finest kind of trout and you can catch dozen a day.

unprecedented fighting spirit. The char is the strongest trout species there is, as wild as the wind. They fight like crazy, punch their weight for every pound of their strong bodies and never give up. And if the fishing is not enough, then certainly the nature in which you catch them is. The stunning scenery of Greenland. So big, so eternal, so awesome and so empty.

through. You find them at the start of the short fishing season (July and August) in the wild white water of the outflow, in the 'head of the pool’ and in quiet, deep places where they wait for sufficient water level for their migration from the sea to the spawning grounds.

You can catch chars anywhere. From the Disco Bay to the south in almost all rivers that run the short path from the ice cap into the fjord. And in the lakes and ponds where the rivers flow

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Later on in the season they can be found in the ‘neck of the pool’ where the lake flows into the river. I'm in Greenland midAugust and catch them mostly there. Most fish are full of color, but I also catch fresh fish from the sea, silver specimens, and all

Happy angler after a fulfilling fishing day in Greenland.

variations in between. 40 to 50 fish a day, an unlikely number.

Mostly three pound fish, but also a dozen from five to seven pounds. From which river or lake could you say the same in the world? Greenland is the absolute epitome of what fly fishing is all about.

Wildest place on earth Greenland is hard and unforgiving, the wildest place on earth. A country for the true adventurer. You will not find fishing hotels or lodges along the Greenland rivers. And if you want to sleep in a tent, you will have to bring it yourself. There are no roads and, outside of airfields, no landing strip for small planes to bring you to a fishing site. You are dependent on a boat and your own two feet. If you want to change from one valley to another river or lake, you will have to hike. If you want food, you will have to catch fish or shoot a reindeer and must prepare or barbeque this yourself. Everything you expect to need for such an adventurous trip, you will have to take with you.

In that respect, Árni Baldursson, owner of Lax-a (Icelandic outfitter), filled a gap in the market with the establishment of the first Greenlandic fishing and hunting camp. "Greenland has the future" says Árni. "More and more travelers will go for unexplored and undiscovered places in the world". It is his belief that his camp fulfills a great need. All facilities are available in the main building, sauna, toilets, showers and 12 cabins (total

Getting to the Lax-a camp is an adventure of its own!

of 20 beds). 'Basic', entirely appropriate for the country (for full details see the website).

Equipment and methods Actually all standard trout equipment will be sufficient (aftma 6 or 7) and you invariably could do with just a floating line.

For the tippet thickness of the leader six pounds (dry fly) to ten pounds (streamers) is the designated torque. My advice is to take all the flies you have. Sometimes the chars take small mosquitos from the water surface, sometimes they take very large sedges.

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Greenland is the absolute epitome of what fly fishing is all about.

Czech nymphs are usually very successful and furthermore all the flies you would use normally in trout reservoirs will suffice.

Nobblers, wooly buggers and streamers. Often brightly colored, sometimes black and sometimes silver. I was extremely successful with a self made ‘Francis Red’ fly (Icelandic salmon fly) on a single long shank hook no.8.

Smaller chars up to three pounds take almost everything, but their fathers and mothers are less active. Exact presentation in front of them is an absolute requirement. Slow retrieve, fast or non stripping, is often not important (I mostly made mini strips and let the current do the job). Smaller chars will attack or bump into your fly, the biggies bite only gently. Often you do not feel that a fish is hooked, until you both begin to realize you should prepare for a long, strong and spectacular battle. Truly

fascinating. Even as I am writing this story and think of the passionate drills, catches and releases of this magnificent fish in this breathtaking backdrop, I am again struck by the heavenly feeling of Greenland.

Information Travel (Icelandair www.icelandair.nl ) to Iceland (Kevlavik), car rental at Hertz, two days fishing in river Skalfandafljot (caught 4 salmon), Air Iceland (www.airiceland.is) from Reykjavik to Narsarsuaq (former U.S. air base) on Greenland. Be met by skipper Emil, sail in his boat to Narsaq (2000 inhabitants), do some shopping and enter into the new Lax-a Camp on a bay in the Sermilik fjord (total crossing time of 3 hours).

Outfitter / www.lax-a.com (Greenland). ■

The Company Lax-á is a 25 year old company that spezialices in fishing and hunting tours around the world. Main operation and offices are in Iceland. Lax-á has an office staff of eleven, working all year around, and a large group of talented guides, drivers and lodge staff. The Lax-a team tailor-makes each tour for each client, arranging everything for them while touring, such as transfers, comfortable accommodation and other outdoor activities.

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www.lax-a.net – lax-a@lax-a.net www.facebook.com/anglingclublaxa Tel: +354 531 6100 Angling Club Lax-á Akurhvarf 16 203 Kopavogur Iceland

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