Reykjavík living 2014 by Helgi Sigurdsson

A GUIDE TO RESTAURANTS, CULTURE AND TRAVEL IN ICELAND

THERE IS MORE TO EXPLORE

Akureyri Reykjavík

www.theviking.is

SOUVENIR SHOP REYKJAVÍK living 3

S HO P O F THE Y EAR 2 0 1 2

BOOK NOW

BSÍ Bus Terminal Reykjavík City

Trip duration approximately

on www.flybus.is

at your reception Free WiFi

Reykjavík International Airport (KEF)

For our flexible schedule scan the QR code

FAST, FREQUENT & ON SCHEDULE EVERY DAY OF THE WEEK!

The Flybus operates in connection with all arriving and departing flights at Reykjavík International Airport (KEF) and your seat is always guaranteed. BSÍ Bus Terminal • 101 Reykjavík

RELAX AT

the Blue Lagoon

580 5400 • www.re.is • www.flybus.is

There is no better way to start or end your Iceland adventure than by bathing in the famous Blue Lagoon.

Reykjavik Excursions offer great flexibility in Blue Lagoon tours. After having enjoyed all that the Blue Lagoon has to offer you can either return to Reykjavík International Airport (KEF) or be brought onwards to Reykjavík.

EXPO · www.expo.is

For our very flexible schedule please consult our brochures or visit www.re.is.

4 REYKJAVÍK living

BSÍ Bus Terminal 101 Reykjavík 580 5400 main@re.is • www.re.is

R O

WE‘LL TAKE YOU THERE! ALL THE MOST EXCITING PLACES IN ICELAND BOOK NOW

on www.re.is

at your reception

Free WiFi

EXPERIENCE A GREAT DAY WITH US! More tours available in our brochures

BSÍ Bus Terminal 101 Reykjavík 580 5400 main@re.is www.re.is

AND ON OUR WEBSITE WWW.RE.IS

R O

REYKJAVÍK living 3

rpa

Reykjavík Center Map. This interactive web site features a detailed and accurate pen and ink drawing of the oldest part of Reykjavík. Explore the city centre and enjoy great art in a fantastic map produced by Borgarmynd architects. Check it out at www.reykjavikcentermap.com

INDEX

Akranes

A TASTE OF ICELAND - Bocuse d'Or....................... 10 ON FIRE - Iceland's hottest play director.................. 16 MADE IN ICELAND OR NOT - Design..................... 25 TOUCHING THE UNTOUCHABLE - Music.............. 32

Reykjavík

Garður Sandgerði Reykjanesbær

Vogar

Grindavík

NORDIC PRIZE WRITERS - Literature...................... 36 WEST ICELAND....................................................... 56 WESTFJORDS.......................................................... 58 NORTH ICELAND................................................... 60 EAST ICELAND........................................................ 70 SOUTH ICELAND.................................................... 74

Westfjords

THE RAVEN'S LAIR - Filmmaking............................ 90

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Árborg Þorlákshöfn Eyrarbakki and Stokkseyri

North Iceland

West Iceland

DESIGNED IN ICELAND.......................................... 88

Reykjavík living 2014 FULLT HÚS PUBLISHING Ei›ism‡ri 14a 170, Seltjarnarnes, Iceland Tel: +354 692 1400 E-mail: mar@mar.is www.reykjavikliving.is

Hafnarfjörður Hveragerði

Editor Súsanna Svavarsdóttir susannasvava@simnet.is Sales and marketing Erna Sigmundsdóttir Tel: +354 821 2755 E-mail: reykjavkl@gmail.com

East Iceland

Vestmanna eyjar

South Iceland

Cover work Geimstofan Top photo: Ingolfur Arnarsson: arctic-images.com

Design and Art Direction Hugverkasmi›jan - Helgi Sig Tel: +354 551 9424 E-mail: helgi@art.is Printing Prentmet.

Proof reading Jess Bygd

ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. Neither this publication nor any part of it may reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior of Fullt hús publishing. Fullt hús publishing takes no responsibility for errors and changes.

Contradicting volcanoes and hot springs; quiet peaceful winter mornings and the glaciers’ bellowing groans as they crack under the great forces of nature. Those are the contending forces that the ICECOLD founder and lead designer, Jón Sigurjónsson, master goldsmith, draws inspiration from and which are combined in the unique ICECOLD range. Sigurjónsson brings out the beauty of these contradictions as the ICECOLD shapes and textures mimic the Icelandic nature, a bit rough but with a hint of softness here and there.

Available in Jón & Óskar stores, Laugavegur 61, Kringlan mall, Smáralind mall. Tel. +354 552 4910 // www.jonogoskar.is.

Northern lights living 5 REYKJAVÍK

PIPAR\TBWA • SÍA • 141315

.. There is something about ... the Northern Lights. Handcrafted, each exquisite pendant is unique. This latest design of the ICECOLD line is made from silver and titanium and inspired by the magical Northern Lights.

Sigurður Jarl Magnússon: www.flickr.com/photos/jarl/

Welcome to Iceland An island like nowhere else. Born from ice and fire it has a strange and otherworldly quality, emphasized by the midnight sun in summer and the northern lights in winter. The nations‘s culture and outlook on life stems from the old nordic mythology. Thus, you‘ll find the islanders hospitable and friendly, polite and proud.

nights during summer and the northern lights during long, dark winters. It is a restless soul, with strong undercurrents of creativity. It is a happy soul and a brooding one. It is hot and cold. Full of contrasts.

Reykjavík Living is designed to tell you about some of the elements most treasured by the Icelanders themselves. In order to make most of your stay, we introduce some of our most prestigious artists and designers, shops offering Icelandic heritage, hotels and restaurants we favour. We also introduce you to the mayor of Akureyri, the beautiful capital in the north.

Which possibly explains the endurance of the islanders through the centuries. Iceland is no toyland. It makes and breaks by shear force of nature. We might not always like it – but, love it we do.

Living in Iceland is a bit of an adventure – and it is often difficult for the Icelanders to stay away from the island for too long. Those who go abroad for their studies, usually return home to make the community richer by their knowledge and craft and those who live abroa, spend most of their holidays in Iceland. There is something magical, even addictive about the island. The Icelandic soul much reflects the land itself, with constant earthquakes, active volcanoes and geothermal activity, with light

We hope you enjoy reading about our country‘s nature and history, the outdoors adventures, arts and leisures, our hospitality and the endless possibilities to have a good time. We also want you to enjoy our greatest treasure – endless sources of fresh cold water and geothermal hot water. Most of all we hope you will enjoy your stay.

Súsanna Svavarsdóttir, editor in chief

ISK 48.700

YRSA Reykjavík ERNA Gull-og silfursmiðjan Erna Skipholt 3, 105 Reykjavík Tel. 552 0775 - www.erna.is

6 REYKJAVÍK living

READY FOR ICELAND’S LUNAR LANDSCAPES

Specifications: Swiss Movement, Solid 316L Stainless Steel Watch Case, 660Feet / 200 Meters Water Resistant, Screw Down Crown, Anti RefIective, Scratch Resistant Sapphire Crystal, Luminous Hands and Numbers. Available in ARC-TIC Iceland flagship store at Laugavegur 18b 101 Reykjavik. REYKJAVÍK living 7 www.arc-tic.com - www.facebook.com/ArcticIceland - info@arc-tic.com

We only provide new cars Always fairly priced

WE WILL PICK YOU UP AT YOUR HOTEL OR GUESTHOUSE

8 REYKJAVÍK living

Be Safe Enjoy Your Journey Hire a brand new car at a moment‘s notice Do you have a day or two to spare or is there a place in Iceland you have always wanted to visit? If so, Átak Car Rental is the place to call. Established in 1979, Átak is one of Iceland‘s most respectable car rental companies, proven by years of serving insurance companies and visitors. Átak Car Rental is minutes away from the centre of Reykavík and offers a free shuttle service to their office to collect your car.

Big or small Átak only has new cars for hire and renew their fleet every year. Whether you want to roam around the city and its neighbouring areas to visit the variety of interesting museums, admire the architecture, go swimming, or alternatively travel to the countryside and the highlands to take in the breathtaking landscapes and spectacular sunsets, Átak has the right car for you. Photos: Bragi Þór Jósefsson - www.bragi.is

Vehicles available range from small and medium sized cars to nine seater transporters to large jeeps including Landrover Discovery and Range Rover jeeps.

Now is the time It doesn´t matter if you haven‘t booked a car prior to your visit to Iceland, Átak always has cars available and can pick you up at a moments notice. Átak also provides any extra equipment you might need for your car, such as baby seats, maps, GPS, trailer, or a roof box. All available to make your stay in Iceland more memorable. ■

Iceland has plenty of places to visit, such as Geysir and Gullfoss, the Blue Lagoon, the black sand beaches of Vík and the glacial lagoon at Jökulsárlón. Whatever your needs, Átak can assist you and providing an excellent service is their priority.

10 REYKJAVÍK living

A taste of Iceland Sigurður Helgason, head chef at Grillið Restaurant is Iceland‘s golden chef this year taking part in the international Bocuse d‘Or competition His dedication to professionalism and high standards brought Sigurður Helgason face to face with Europe’s best chefs in Sweden in May 2014. After finishing the preliminaries in Iceland and the semi-finals in Sweden he is Iceland’s contestant in the prestigious Bocuse d’Or Professional Cooking Competition taking part in France in January 2015. He is the chef designing the menu for Grillið, a restaurant revered by Icelanders and their guests for decades but never as much as today. It is fair to say that the Bocuse d’Ore competition is the one true culinary world tournament. It was first held in 1987 and only 24 nations get to take part in the finals. It is a venue for the best of the best. Eight Icelandic chefs have taken part in the competition since 1999 and all of them have made it to the finals. Which is no mean feat considering the great, age-old culinary traditions and vast choices of raw materials available to chefs all over world. Only forty years ago, you couldn’t even get outlandish dishes like pizzas in Iceland, let alone fresh herbs, vegetables and spices, unless you were some kind of a “weirdo” growing them yourself. But, in four decades Iceland has undergone a culinary revolution, welcoming influences from south, west and east (north not really being an option) regarding taste and preparation as well as cooking methods.

Raw material complications Sigurður Helgason is the ninth Icelandic chef entering the finals of Bocuse d’Or competition. In October 2013 he was informed of the raw materials he was to work with in the semi-finals, coalfish and Belon Oysters for the fish course and Swedish young pig for the meat course. It was the start of an intense six month preparation period. „Both courses were main courses,“ says Sigurður. „For the fish course a minimum of 50% of the dish should consist of vegetables, wild or garden grown, from land or sea; it was a free choice. Along with the meat course should be two side dishes and just one centre piece. We got five hours, thirty five minutes to complete the dishes.“ Apart from the coalfish the raw materials Sigurður was expected to work with are not available in Iceland and when asked how he went about preparing for the competition he says he contacted Icelandic pig farmers to provide him with smaller pig legs than normally used in Iceland. The pig farmers decided to back him upp all the way. Apart from the Icelandic pig legs he got four more sent from Sweden to get himself acquainted with the difference. The oysters were specially imported for him.

REYKJAVÍK living 11

In October 2013 Sigurður was informed of the raw materials he was to work with in the semi-finals, coalfish and Belon Oysters for the fish course and Swedish young pig for the meat course.

MEAT MENUE

FISH MENU Coalfish stuffed with mussels, shellfish juice and spring onions. Langoustine mousse with salted lemon and bread crumbs. Bellon Oysters. Slightly cooked oysters and oyster emulsion in pickled onion, dill foam on rye crisp bread... and their vegetable garden. Spring vegetable, truffle asparagus, black quinoa and salicornia. Jerusalem artichoke stuffed with own preserved cream and shallot, dill oil and Icelandic lump roes. Mussels butter sauce.

Swedish young pig. The ham with burned bay leaves and grilled leek, crisp pigskin and dried Icelandic ham. Trotter and shank terrine. Trotter and shank rillettes with caramelized onion, foie gras, salsify and Jerusalem artichoke, topped with lemony mustard seeds and garden peas. Small blood sausage on its beetroot stuffed with apple chutney and apple vinegar gelée. Salt baked celeriac served sliced with hazelnuts and preserved pearl onions. Creamed morels in potato shell with Icelandic Reindeer moss. Onion juice sauce.

Preparation period

The natural taste

By the end of October Sigurður had all the ingredients he needed to start developing his dishes and prepare for the semi-finals, six days a week until May. In September 2014 he‘ll start again, preparing for the finals in January 2015. To the layman, five months of cooking two dishes seems like an awful long time. What‘s the story here? „It is a question frequently asked,“ says Sigurður. „It sounds like rather a stretch but, to be honest, it isn‘t. The list of to-dos is endless. The first step is to develope the dish, find a particular theme. Then, it is a question of getting organized to be able to complete the dish within a given time-frame. There are fifteen time-frame exercises for each dish. It takes two days to prepare each exercise. Just showing up in the kitchen and get it over with is not an option. In the actual competition each contestant gets one chef assistant who has been working with him/her during the whole process and one assistant for washing-up. When the dishes have been completed it is time for deciding the dispaly; the plates etc.“

As an example of the sheer size of a competition like Bocuse d‘Or, Siguður‘s luggage weight one thousand kilos when he travelled to Sweden, eight hundred of which were kitchen appliances, two hundred ingredients for his dishes, even the tiniest shreds of herbs and spices. Still, he had to do some shopping in Stockholm. „It was prime time for fresh asparagus and carrots – not available in Iceland. I had already designed the dishes, tastewise, and was running all over the city to locate the correct ingredients to complete them in the competition.“ When asked how he designs his dishes, Sigurður replies: „I base them on my own methods and personality and develop them into the given frame of instructions. In this competition it is important to be true to your natioanlity and style. It is inappropriate to use herbs and spices not authentic to your own country. I used Icelandic herbs and developed the dishes in the style we offer at Grillið Restaurant. We always select the best raw materials available and the emphasis is on purity in preparation and cooking in order for the customer to better enjoy the natural taste.“ ■

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In our souvenir shop you will find Icelandic design inspired by the Northern Lights our shop will InIn our souvenir shop souvenir you will find Icelandic design inspired by theyou Northern Lights Designs by: Designs by: Dimmblá Stál í stál - Jens Dimmblá Volcap Stál íOlason stál - Jens paintings Volcap Gingó hönnun Olason paintings Svandís Kandís Gingó hönnun and more Svandís Kandís and more Free coffee & tea at our store Free coffee & tea at our store

Maritime museum CCP

Maritime museum

Maritime museum CCP

CCP

Hotel Marina

The old The Hotel harbour Marina Northern Light Center The The The old harbour Harpan Northern Northern Music hall LightLight Center Center Reykjavík Art museum

Harpan Music hall Reykjavík Kolaportið Art museum fleemarket Kolaportið

Visit us and experience our multimedia exhibition It's only a ten-minute walk from theexhibition city center Visit us and experience our multimedia Hotel Marina It's only a ten-minute walk from the city center The old harbour Grandagarður 2 - 101 Reykjavík Open every day2from - 21:00 Grandagarður - 101 09:00 Reykjavík Harp Musi Open every day from 09:00 - 21:00Reykjavík Art museum

Kolapor

fleemar fleemarket www.aurorareykjavik.is REYKJAVÍK living 13 www.aurorareykjavik.is www.aurorareykjavik.is

MADE IN ICELAND JS Watch co. Reykjavik is a small Icelandic watch manufacturer whose exceptional timepieces promise to put the country on the map for something other than hot springs, Bjork and disruptive volcanoes.

Icelandic Ingenuity

The collaboration of a watchmaker, collector and designer has produced the JS Watch co. Reykjavik, one of the world’s smallest manufacturers of stylish, quality watches. Is JS Watch co. Reykjavik, from the middle of the Atlantic Ocean, one of the watch industries best kept secret? All the watches are designed and assembled by hand in Iceland. Only highest quality movements and materials are used to produce the watches and every single detail has been given the time needed for perfection. The quantity of watches produced is limited, giving them an exclusive and truly personal feel. Currently the watches are being worn on many celebrity wrists such as Viggo Mortensen, Quentin Tarantino and his holiness 14th Dalai Lama to name just a few.

Meet the watchmaker

The JS Watch co. Watch factory and exclusive retail shop located at Laugavegur 62, in the trendy “101” area of Reykjavik provides customers with unique opportunity to meet the watchmakers who assemble and test their timepiece. Quality control is administrated by Master Watchmaker Gilbert O. Gudjonsson who is one of Iceland’s best known watchmakers and has more than 40 years of experience. If you are interested in unique Icelandic design stop by and have a look at the JS Watch co. Reykjavik collection of quality mechanical timepieces. Gilbert ‘O Guðjónsson Master watchmaker, Laugvegur 62 tel + (354) 551 4100, www.gilbert.is or www.jswatch.com

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Our Master Watchmaker never loses his concentration With his legendary concentration and 45 years of experience our Master Watchmaker ensures that we take our waterproofing rather seriously. Gilbert O. Gudjonsson, our Master Watchmaker and renowned craftsman, inspects every single timepiece before it leaves our workshop. As a privately owned and operated company, we have the opportunity and duty to give all our timepieces the personal attention they deserve.

www.jswatch.com

REYKJAVĂ?K living 15

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On FIRE Iceland‘s hottest play director, Thorleifur Orn Arnarsson, turns everything he touches into dramatic magic – all over Europe Unstoppable, unable to say no, always dancing his productions to the edge of the void, working from the viewpoint of deconstruction, displaying the big picture through small scenes, yet focusing completely on the best his actors have got to give, it comes as no surprise that Thorleifur is one of the most soughtafter play directors in Europe. After graduating from the Icelandic University of Arts with a bachelors degree in Fine Arts, he studied play directing, a four year diploma course, at the HFS Ernst Busch in Berlin, graduating in 2008. Since then he has been directing theatre and opera productions in Germany, Switzerland and Iceland – as well as holding the position of Chief Director at the Konstanz Theatre in Germany in 2008 and 2009. Amongst his productions are Shakespeare‘s Romeo and Juliet and Psychosis by Sara Kane in 2009, Peer Gynt by Henrik Ibsen, The Merchant’s Contract by Elfrede Jelinek, King Lear by Shakespeare and Mutter Courage by Bertold Brecht in 2010. In 2011 The Bat by Johann Strauss, The Master and Margarita by Bulgakov and his own stage adaptation of the Grimm Fairy Tales. In 2012 Thorleifur directed Shakespeare’s Othello and Dante’s Divine Comedy, in 2013 Puccini’s La Boheme, Shakespeare’s Romeo and Juliet – and, at last back in Iceland, Angels of the Universe, the most popular theatre production in Iceland in three decades, at the National Theatre. Already in 2014 he has directed Lohengrin by Richard Wagner and Die Nibelungen by Frederich Hebbel. During the summer and fall he’ll be staging three productions in Switzerland and Germany, returning to Iceland at the end of October to stage his own adaptation of Laxness’s Independent People at the National Theatre, premiering on Boxing Day. Thorleifur’s Peer Gynt in Luzern in 2010 was voted the most interesting production of the year by critics and audience on the internet site Nachtkritik.de. In 2012 it was invited to the

Reykjavík Arts Festival and in 2016 it has been invited to the Ibsen Festival in Oslo, Norway. In 2013 his Romeo and Juliet was voted one of the ten most interesting theatre productions in Germany by critics and audience on Nachtkritik.de

An angry young man During his drama studies it didn‘t take Thorleifur long to realize that his place belonged on the other side of the 4th wall and that‘s where he headed after graduation, staging radical plays, with strong political messages. „I was pretty preoccupied by the political theatre at this stage,“ Thorleifur says. „Anything questioning our means and motives, from arts to theatre to society. I expecially liked Vanessa Badham‘s work. She is an Australian activist and her plays were very radical in their criticism of capitalism. I asked her to write a play for me for staging at the Reykjavík City Theatre and she agreed. But, the play never materialized as the writer hit the bottle big time somewhere in Ireland. I still had this staging slot at the City Theatre and decided to use the DIY approach. I wrote my first play, American REYKJAVÍK living 17

Diplomacy. To be blunt, it was not at all a good play. The storyline follows an agricultural minister who is launching a milk factory in the north of Iceland when he is told about the demise of all his fellow ministers. They died from food poisoning after a dinner given by the American Ambassador to Iceland. As the only standing minister he is rushed back to Reykjavík where he is locked up in the Parliament building – a former prison, by the way, along with two female assistants. One is a conservative, the other a neoliberalist. Of course, the three of them start fighting which ends when the American Ambassador arrives like a liberating angel to get the minister out of this awful situation and things turn sexual if I remember correctly. It was vulgarity taken to the extreme. I was a very angry artist.“

Facing his shortcomings „Still, this was perhaps the most important work of my career. It was a failure and failure is the best thing that can happen to you early in your career – if you are prepared to face your shortcomings and not take your self-criticism personally. For staging this play we built a complete office and as the play progressed I had a team on stage dismantling it and remove it from the stage. It 18 REYKJAVÍK living

was not a question of removing the play but to transform the situation on the stage. It was the first time I used this approach – without knowing what I was doing – and I have been developing it ever since. It was just an instinct and if I had not been prepared to face my mistakes I would never have realized this approach. It makes the audience aware of the passing of time and also influences his conception. It is akin to the fabulous film making method of editing. You use a picture of a flower in bloom and the audience sees spring, you use a picture of a vilted flower and the audience sees death or fall or an end to something. I always start my productions with a complete stage set which is gradually dismantled and removed as the play progresses. I clean out the overload.“ During the following year, Thorleifur had the nerve to direct his father – one of the most renowned actors in Iceland – in a one-man-play, Sveinsstykki, a critically acclaimed production, travelled to Australia to work with his friend, Vanessa Bedham who had recovered from her good times in Ireland, headed to Finland to direct a street-theatre version of Waiting for Godot

Our Master Watchmaker never loses his concentration

With his legendary concentration and 45 years of experience our Master Watchmaker and renowned craftsman, Gilbert O. Gudjonsson, inspects every single timepiece before it leaves our workshop.

All the watches are designed and assembled by hand in Iceland. Only highest quality movements and materials are used to produce the watches and every single detail has been given the time needed for perfection.

www.jswatch.com

REYKJAVĂ?K living 19

by Samuel Beckett, then to the north of Iceland to work with a theatre company from a college of further education. He missed the premiere – as on that particular day he had to be in Berlin for examinations to get into HFS Ernst Busch.

Maturing in Berlin It is the Academy producing most of the directors for the German theatre. It is the leading drama school in Germany. And it gets results. In Thorleifur‘s year there were six students of directing, three of whom are amongst the most sought after directors in the German speaking theatres, a fourth is a dramaturg at a theatre in Bonn. But, why does it take four years to educate a play director? „We studied philosophy, sociology, aesthetics, art history and all kinds of subjects. Then we had mentors, different teachers, who taught us the craft. Starting small scale we directed small scenes from plays and gradually bigger scenes with professors sitting in on the process. Afterwards there were discussions about our approach and methods. And then there was a lot of discourse. Discourses on whether it is at all possible to teach play directing. This German art of discourse absolutely fascinated me from the very beginning. I had never come across anything like it in the Icelandic theatre. Working in the Icelandic theatre you quickly learn not to criticize, doubt or discuss publically what you or your colleagues are doing, while in Germany you can be a professor of directing taking part in public discussions about whether teaching your subject is possible. Now, that is artistic freedom. I really doubt you could work as an engineer in Iceland and lead a public discussion on the pros and cons of building power plants. 20 REYKJAVÍK living

If you express controverisal views or criticize the theatre in Iceland, you are not gaining yourself popularity. In Germany you have enough artistic freedom to bluntly express your views and still be respected as an artist. It was a revelation to me. I‘ll never forget my first period in my first year at the HFS. The book on our table was Heidegger. Included in our education was hard-core study of philosophy. The Academy‘s basic standpoint is that an artist needs to take a stance towards the world. It is crucial. In your work you are exptected to take a stance. It is extremely trying. Serving the play you are staging as well as taking a stance towards the world is indeed very difficult.“ I have always been rather a critically minded person and being quite young my attitude was, of course, to a large extent based on arrogance and ignorance. I thought I had arrived in Paradise where I could express myself illustriously – but, I had another thing coming. Not only did I have to explain myself and give reasons for the opinions I so freely expressed, I also had to possess knowledge of the subjects I was discussing. Opinionated was not good enough any more. Nothing in Germany impacted me more than suddenly being part of a community based on critical and intellectual discourse.“

A strange relationship In his second year at HFS Thorleifur staged Clockwork Orange at the Virus Theatre in Helsinki, Finland and in his third year he got his first professional break when he was asked to direct Lars Norén‘s The Nightwatch in Berlin and at the end of that year, Shakespeare‘s Romeo and Juliet in St. Gallen in Switzerland, a production which made his name in the German speaking theatre.

Thorleifur‘s production of Lohengrin was premiered in spring 2014 in Augsburg. Praised by the audience and receiving standing ovations it is the second time he stages an opera production. Some critics love him, some critics don‘t, not at all agreeing with his free-spirited approach. „You know, I have a rather strange relationship with the opera,“ Thorleifur says. „I realize this is one of my best productions, but staging an opera always leaves me a little empty. All my work was completed a week before the premiere as that week is allocated to intense rehearsals with orchestra, choir and singers. Whenever I stage plays the last week is the time when my creative force is at its peak. It is the time when I finally decide which of my ideas are in and which of them are out. It is a time of merging and completion. I didn‘t get that week. Lohengrin was quite a challenge. It is a four and a half hour opera production in an atmosphere where everybody is a Wagnerian specialist with set ideas on what you are allowed to do with Wagner‘s works. In spite of its success I don‘t feel I have mastered the opera form like I have mastered the theatre stage. The leap from the theatre to the opera is quite big. If I go on directing operas I realize I‘ll have to find a way to be just as radical in my work there as in the theatre. I am not a director in the sense who tells the actors where to stand and what to say. When deciding the consept I am more akin to a visual artist than a play director. Then, when I start working with my actors I demand that they dive down to their darkest core if need be, to find the appropriate way to express their text and their character. This is impossible when directing the opera. It is all about the music

and the director‘s job is to tell the singers where to stand, where to face, etc. It is just a completely different job.“ Thorleifur‘s schedule during summer 2014 is extremely busy. Premiering at the beginning of June is Much Ado About Nothing in an old convent in Wettingen, Switzerland, where every third year the convent‘s inner sanctum is transformed into theatre. Then Thorleifur is off to Wiesbaden where he is staging The Two Penny Opera, premiering 12th September and then it is La Boheme, also in Wiesbaaden, with the premiere scheduled in October. Then, finally it is time to return home and start work on Independent People at the National Theatre – a production eagerly awaited by Icelandic theatre lovers. And then, Thorleifur‘s schedule is fully booked until 2017. ■

REYKJAVÍK living 21

The Viking Village Viking Restaurant

Restaurant Fjaran

Here you can step into the world of the past, the World of the Vikings. The dĂŠcor is in the Viking style and we offer true Viking feast with traditional meals served in oldfashioned Viking-style trays. The guests can expect various treats and surprises offered by our singing Valkyries and Vikings. The fun reaches its height when the Fjoru-chieftain crowns a guest as an Honorary Viking.

Fjaran is a cosy restaurant that provides an elegant dining experience (a la carte) and can seat up to 58 guests. The house is ideally situated, offering picturesque view of the harbour. Built in 1841, recently renovated and restored to its original style, it provides a cosy, romantic atmosphere. We emphasize fish and game, but in Fjaran we offer a wide selection of gourmet dishes.

- Restaurant Fjorugardurinn

22 REYKJAVĂ?K living

- for Elegant DIning

Two Icelandic themed villages

HLIÐ

Á LF TA N E S

Restaurant & Lodging

e and it is The Viking Village is a unique plac urant the only Viking theme Hotel and resta develbeen step by step have We nd. in Icela years oping our facilities over the last 24 so in the and will hopefully continue to do n and future. We offer Hotel accommodatio ps. grou and lies fami for Good es. hous Viking

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most nights Viking feasts - Souvenirs - Live entertainment n to us“ Don’t miss it! “You haven't been in Iceland if you haven't bee 1 to 5 m th in e ut ci es ty d ce riv nt e re

| +354 Booking: www.vikingvillage.is

.is

565 1213 | booking@vikingvillage

The Viking Hotel

The Cave

The Viking Hotel and the West Nordic Culture House are in the same building. As you enter the Hotel, you are greeted with fine art and crafts from the three West Nordic countries. The Hotel has 42 luxurious rooms which are decorated in a striking Viking theme. The rooms come with a bathroom and TV. Outside in an enclosed stone garden we offer a soothing sauna and hot tub.

Early summer 2005 we opened a cave behind the Hotel Viking. In and around this mysterious dwelling we have our playful and exciting Viking Kidnappings which we have surprised groups with through the years. We are now springing such adventure on all our guests to the cave and every brave soul gets the Adventurer Welcome Drink made the authentic Viking way. ■

- A friendly hotel in the heart of Hafnarfjordur

- The Element of Surprise

The Viking Village

Strandgata 55, 220 Hafnarfjordur Tel. 565 1213 - www.vikingvillage.is

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Fur by furrier Eggert Jóhannsson furrier.is

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Made in Iceland ... or not? The difference between Designed and Made

Like any other nation, Icelanders are proud of their heritage; proud of their designers and very proud of their handicraft. And when you are looking for something special to take back home, like a pretty piece of jewellery, a precious fur, or the handknitted Lopi cardigan or sweater, even socks, scarfs or hats made from the Icelandic lambs wool, there is a lot to choose from. But not all is what it seems and you have to check the labels to make sure you are really buying authentic Icelandic handicraft – if that is what you are looking for. The Handknitting Association of Iceland has been calling for honesty from retailers for quite some time. Their spokesperson, Bryndís Eiríksdóttir, says, alas, a lot of what is on offer in the tourist shops is only designed in Iceland, but made somewhere else, i.e. China, Taiwan or India. „It is not handknitted in Iceland,“ she says. „but the customers are not informed of the fact. Far too often, we get customers into our shop, which only sells products made in Iceland, who are looking for hats or scarfs or socks to go with Lopi sweaters and cardigans they have bought, believing them to be authentic Icelandic handicraft. When we tell them we have nothing to match what they purchased because it was not made in Iceland, they become extremely disappointed. They honestly thought they were buying Icelandic handicraft and no one told them otherwise.

Know what you are buying The retailers selling authentic Icelandic designs – made in Iceland – are increasingly dissatisfied with the state of affairs and are calling for retailers to have the decency to treat their

customers with honesty. „When you see „Designed in Iceland“ on the label, you can be pretty sure it is not „made“ in Iceland, but somewhere abroad,“ says Bryndís, „A lot of tourists become agitated, sad and disappointed and this has been verified by quite a number of tour guides who tell us stories of tourists who even break into tears when they realize all the souvenirs they have bought have been made abroad. On the other hand, if it says „Made in Iceland“ on the label, you can be absolutely sure it is Icelandic handicraft. When asked if it matters whether something is knitted in Iceland or abroad, Bryndís replies: „Yes, if you are looking for Icelandic handicraft, and paying for your souvenir as such, it matters. Of course, there is a lot of bautiful souvenirs made abroad for Iceland. It is just a question of telling the truth.“

Honesty is the key word Eggert the Furrier agrees with Bryndís. „Designed in Iceland practically guarantees you the piece is made abroad. Which is fine and I am not saying there is anything wrong with it. We, the designers and handicraft people just want the tourist to be aware whether their purchase is authentic or not. When customers comes into my shop I make a point of informing them where my furs are made. They are my designs but some of them are made in Germany, some in Denmark and some in Iceland. If the want „made in Iceland“ that is what I show them.“ If they don‘t like what I have to offer, so be it. The key word here is honesty. It would matter a great deal if retailers in Iceland showed their customers the courtesy of treating them with honesty by providing correct information.“ ■ REYKJAVÍK living 25

you are invited to experience

unique icelandic art

at icelandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s oldest fine art gallery

26 REYKJAVĂ?K Imagineliving Peace Tower on the island Videy in Reykjavik

www.gallerilist.is

R E Y K J A V Í K

Skipholt 50a Tel 581 4020

REYKJAVÍK living 27

Wool from a Unique Breed The Icelandic wool has always enjoyed great popularity amongst Icelanders. It is exceptionally warm and water resistant. It was used for clothes-making by the island‘s settlers in 874 and is still the wool of choice for the knitting mothers, daughters, sisters and grandmothers in Iceland. The Icelandic Lopi heritage designs are known all over the world, especially the beautiful sweaters and cardigans – for men, women and children – the famous „Lopapeysa“. The Icelandic sheep has been the key to the nation’s survival, providing generations of Icelanders not only with food but also with wool as protection from the biting cold of the harsh northern climate. It has been isolated – and thus protected – on the island since the Vikings brought this rugged breed over in the year 874. It has always maintained the same gene pool making its fleeces among the rarest in the world. The isolation has protected the purity of the strain. Evolving over 1100 years of exposure to the sub-Arctic climate, the Icelandic wool consists of two types of fibres, coarse and fine – or inner and outer fibres. The coarse fibres are long, glossy, tough and water resistant, the fine fibres tend to be softer and more insulating, providing a high resistance to cold and possessing a unique texture and natural colors. Not only is Icelandic wool wonderfully light and flexible, but also tremendously warm. It is lightweight and highly water-repellent, with the fibres passing away from the skin, keeping you dry and comfortable. Another striking characteristic of the Icelandic wool is its natural colours; white, grey, brown and black. Textile production techniques may have changed dramatically since the days of the early Viking settlers, but the commitment of Icelanders to quality and tradition has not. 28 REYKJAVÍK living

In our conservation-minded age, Icelandic wool is particularly appealing: it is a natural product created on environmentally friendly principles. Nature reigns supreme throughout the manufacturing process. Only natural energy sources such as geo-thermal and hydroelectric power are used in production of Icelandic wool, while the sheep from which the wool is harvested still graze freely in summer, as they have always done, on vast tracts of virgin land. The Icelandic wool quality symbol on a product guarantees that it is made out of genuine Icelandic wool. The wool is purchased directly from farmers and taken to sorting stations located around the country. There, it is graded by experts according to colour and quality. The next stage is washing where the use of chemicals and detergents is kept to an absolute minimum to ensure preservation of the natural oils, leaving the wool as warm, light and water-resistant as nature meant it to be. Finally, the prime quality wool is selected for spinning into the finest yarn before being knitted into a wide range of products. All patterns have been devised by Icelandic designers throughout the centuries. The distinctive patterns of Icelandic knitwear are as much a part of Iceland as its mountains, waterfalls and hot springs. Durable yet soft, strong but comfortable, Icelandic woollens are the natural choice if you want to share in the wonders of the unique country that created them. ■

WOOL SWEATERS HAND KNITTED IN ICELAND, ACCESSORIES, WOOL BLANKETS, TRADITIONAL CRAFTS & MODERN ICELANDIC ART

www.alafoss.is

ENJOY THE WARMTH FROM ICELAND! 1896

LAUGAVEGUR 8, REYKJAVÍK ÁLAFOSSVEGUR 23, MOSFELLSBÆR OPEN: MON. - FRI. 9.00 - 18.00 SAT. 9:00 - 16:00

REYKJAVÍK living 29

Into the World of

ICE

Glacier Walks are fast becoming the most popular outdoors activity in Iceland

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Icelandic Mountain Guides is Iceland‘s premier adventure tour operator and this year they are celibrating their 20th year anniversary. The company was established in 1994 where the aim was to introduce the wonders of Icelandic nature to travelers from all over the world. At first Icelandic Mountain Guides started by offering GlacierWalks from Skaftafell in Vatnajökull National Park and later on Sólheimajökull glacier as well. Hiking, backpacking and other adventures and expeditions in Iceland and Greenland soon followed. Today Icelandic Mountain Guides is a company that offers adventure tours ranging from short day tours to longer multi-day expeditions in the great outdoors in both summer and winter. Did you know that glaciers cover around 12% of the country‘s surface and Vatnajökull is Europe's largest glacier? Further, did you know that glaciers are not just the simple ice-caps you see from afar? They have their own landscape; mountains and valleys with spectacular caves, rivers and lakes in a wide range of white and ice-blue colours. This pristine world is well worth the trip. But, by all means, don‘t go on a glacier without a proper guidance! They may look appealing, but glaciers can be a treacherous sort.

glaciers are easily accessible and the glacier walks are operated every day, all year on Sóheimajökull glacier and from Skaftafell in Vatnajökull National Park. You can either go on day tours from Reykjavík or drive yourself to the locations. You don‘t need any equipment as the company supplies pick-axes and crampons (spikes), as well as clothing for rainy days if needed. Hiking shoes can also be rented. Still it is important to be dressed according to weather.

You just have to choose the right tour for you Of course, Icelandic Mountain Guides are not limited to glaciers. Whatever outdoors activities you prefer, they have a great tour for you. Be it hiking, skiing, mountain biking, or super jeep expeditions, Icelandic Mountain Guides provide adventures for all. Whether you are looking for a short or a long adventure tour, be sure to check the Icelandic Mountain Guides brochures or homepage for more information www.mountainguides.is. ■

Day tours for all ages Icelandic Mountain Guides offer a range of glacier walks and ice climbing day tours. All their guides are very experienced and go through a highly awarded training system to ensure the standard of safety and experience on the Icelandic glaciers. The training system now sets the standard for all other outdoor adventure companies in Iceland. Icelandic Mountain Guides also uphold an active environmental policy that has won several awards. Glacier walks are indeed a family-friendly activity. The shorter tours are suitable for children from the age of eight and the longer tours for children from the age of ten. The walks are moderately steep and thus suitable for people of all ages. The REYKJAVÍK living 31

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Alexander Matukhno

Touching the untouchable Sigríður Thorlacius refuses to be constrained by genres of music and insists all songs are there for singing When she starts singing it‘s as if time stands still. With a voice floating effortlessly on her breath, ever so softly still powerful enough to captivate the audience it is the perfectly tuned instrument. Sigríður Thorlacius is Iceland‘s favorite female singer, performing and recording both as a soloist and as the lead singer in the popular and outstanding group Hjaltalín. She was quite young when she decided to become a singer. But, what kind of singer? Opera, jazz, blues, country. Her father suggested she become a Leiden singer. Loving all the music genres, it was a dilemna. As a teenager Sigríður decided on the opera and started classical vocal studies – as well as, singing in a choir. Then, upon realizing she would have to destroy certain aspects of her voice and change others in order to cultivate it for the opera stage she changed her mind and decided to train as jazz singer. Today, she sings anything she likes and all songs become somehow better when she applies her voice to them. Recently, Sigríður hasn‘t had much time for her jazz though. Busy with her group, Hjaltalín; performing with various choirs and singers; performing here and there and everywhere as well as recording. Fortunately, she is young because she has an endless list of songs she would like to sing: Icelandic songs, German

songs, clasical songs, songs written for the Opera and Leiden songs. And she wants to sing them her way. She is not in awe of any musical genre, claiming these are just songs meant for being sung. No songs are untouchable. To Sigríður lyrics are just as important as the music. Her approach is to be lead by the emotions expressed by the lyrics when approaching a new song. When singing soft melodies with soft lyrics she will not display her powerful and versatile voice to show off. She‘ll practically whisper it into your ear – and you‘ll be touched. For Sigríður it always has to be the apporopriate approach to each and every song she sings. ■ REYKJAVÍK living 33

Listen to the Music Throughout the Middle Ages the pious fathers of religion banned all joy from peoples‘ lives. There was to be no music or dancing and for ages the islanders largely kept to their ancient ways of rímur. Around 1900 though a few individuals, educated abroad, started bringing back with them musical instruments and telling people about the wonderful world of music. Still, music didn‘t become an artform for anyone who loved music until the second world war, when quite a number of musicians from Germany and Austria came to Iceland as refugees and started teaching music to the general public. Now, this is an extremely short version of the history of music in Iceland. But, the Icelanders were quick to catch on and today it studying music is considered an important part of childrens‘ education. The Icelanders simply love music. Any kind of music and the music created, produced and performed in Iceland is very diverse.

Quite a number of Icelandic musicians have entered the international stage. Icelandic opera singers can be found in Opera Houses all over the world. Musicians playing classical and contemporary music appear regularly in Concert Halls, as soloists, in duos, trios, quartets, etc. as well as in chamber and symphony orchestras. A number of composers are working for musicians and orchestras all over the world. The jazz and blues scene is quite rich and in the pop and rock scene, Bjork opened a door , without doubt. Today, Icelandic music isn‘t only made for Icelanders. The world is listening. Take some time to visit a record store and ask for Icelandic music. You can be certain to find something to your taste. ■

The Saga Bracelet One of Iceland´s most famous artists from the 20th century, Ríkarður Jónsson, designed the Saga Bracelet, inspired by Njáls Saga. Njáls Saga, considered the finest of the Icelandic sagas, is an epic story written in the 13th century.

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Karl Guðmundsson, a famous wood engraver who had been a pupil of Ríkarður Jónsson, made the prototype of the bracelet which has been made up to this day. The Saga Bracelet´s historical roots run deep thru the rich soil of Icelandic culture; exquisite, timeless jewelry.

ERNA Gull-og silfursmiðjan Erna Skipholt 3, 105 Reykjavík Tel. 552 0775 - www.erna.is

Quality instruments aﬀordable prices

Full line store Tónastöðin • Skipholti 50d • Reykjavík • tel. +354 552 1185 • www.tonastodin.is REYKJAVÍK living 35

Gyrðir Elíasson Gyrðir Elíasson won the NCLP in 2011 for his short story collection Milli trjánna for stylistically outstanding literary art which depicts inner and outer threats in dialogue with world literature. Gyrðir’s first poetry collection was published in 1983. Since then he has published poetry collections, novels and collections of short stories. He is also a diligent translator, mainly from English, including some of William Saroyan's and Richard Brautigan's works. For years Gyrðir has been labelled "the great stylist" in Icelandic contemporary literature. He won the Icelandic Literary Prize in 2000 for his collection of short stories Gula húsið and has twice been nominated for the Nordic

36 REYKJAVÍK living

Council Literature Prize (1991 and 2002) before winning the prize in 2011. Milli trjánna is a collection of 47 new short stories, all characterized by the effortless, image-rich style that graces Gyrðir's works. Content-wise this collection is close to the writer's former novels and short prose. As before, one can clearly feel the different forms of unease and mystery, as well as loneliness, dreams, travels, childhood memories and future visions, and also the charming humour, the readers know from the previous works. “Milli trjánna” is Gyrðir Elíasson's eighth collection of short stories, which like his previous collection “Steintré” in 2009, was nominated for the prestigious Frank O’Connor literary award.

Nordic Prize Writers

The Nordic Council Literature Prize was first awarded in 1962. Since then seven Icelandic writers have received the prize. Three of them are alive and still creating great literature.

Einar Már Guðmundsson Einar Már Guðmundsson received the NCLP in 1995 for his novel Angels of the Universe. A novel so much loved by the Icelanders, it has already been adapted for the stage as well as a very popular film. In the Angels of the Universe, with poetic madness, civilization and the world is experienced through a psychiatric patient's mind. Humor emphasizes the gravity. The irony is clad in the veil of naivety. The novel opens an insight into the reality which we have become accustomed to calling normal. Einar made his literary debut in 1980 with a collection of poems. His first novel, Riddarar hringstigans, was released a few years later. He is regarded as one of the most distinguished Icelandic writers of his generation.

Using dark humor, Angels of the Universe lends voice to the schizophrenic Páll, who, all his life, has been suffering from a split personality, bouts of temper, anxiety, unrest and paranoia. The scene of the novel is laid in Reykjavik, a growing town undergoing transformation. The story takes place between 1950 and 1980, a time of dissolution when old values fall apart without being replaced by new ones. Páll is looking for an explanation why his life turned out as it did – he is looking for an event or a trauma that flung him into his internal chaos. While Páll loses himself more and more in his longing for lost friends, childhood, being well, light and harmony, an idea is slowly making its way forward: leaving childhood is perhaps losing your mind?

REYKJAVÍK living 37

Sjón Sjón, original name Sigurjón Birgir Sigurðsson won the NCLP in 2005 for his novel The Blue Fox which balances skillfully on the border of poetry and prose. The novel weaves themes from Icelandic sagas, and romantic narrative art into a fascinating story in which present day ethical questions stand out. Sjón was born in Iceland, making his literary debut already at the age of 16 with his first collection of poems, later followed by another seven. He has written five novels as well as songs for Icelandic singer Björk. The Blue Fox is a novel about an Icelandic pastor and a fox hunt. Sjón makes use of the Icelandic folktale to tell his story.

38 REYKJAVÍK living

One of the principal characters is the pastor Baldur Skuggason. He has an evil, dark side to his character. Another key figure is the strange offspring of a cat and a fox following the story – Sjón’s style has elements of a very unique Icelandic sense of humor. The Blue Fox is a short novel with a few sections. Some pages only consist of a single written line, surrounded by large white surfaces calling to mind the Icelandic expanse. This concreteness can be said to balance on the line between prose and poetry. The Blue Fox is also a contemporary novel which brings up some of today's ethical questions. Are the weak, deformed babies with developmental disorders welcome in a world where they could have been discarded already prior to birth? ■

Magical images by IcelandÂ´s best selling author of photo books

REYKJAVĂ?K living 39

Grillid Top Floor Restaurant - a treasured experience Through the last 50 years, Grillið has earned a reputation of sophistication and splendour. Grillið is a special place and holds memories of special occasions and tender moments of its dinner guests. Each of these moments has laid the foundation for the award-winning chef de cuisine, Sigurdur Helgason. The chef is fully aware of the status Grillið has in the hearts of Icelanders, and more than capable to meet the expectations of guests hungry for an exclusive dining experience. In the kitchen with Sigurdur is the renowned executive sous chef, Atli Þór Eðvaldsson.

GRILLID Hagatorg 107 40 REYKJAVÍK living

Reykjavik

Together they create extraordinary menus with a careful consideration to each season. Their dishes are constructed of the freshest and best in-season ingredients available; Icelandic specialties mixed with a selection of exclusive flavours. The highlight of the winter is a special tasting menu, a four or seven-course peek into the chef’s mind. For those who visit Grillið, located on the top floor of Radisson BLU Hotel Saga, it’s not only the perfectly executed food that leaves behind the wonderful feeling of quality; the fine service, warm atmosphere and a stupendous panoramic view of the city complete the unforgettable night of indulgence.

Tel.: +354 525-9960

www.grillid.is

Email: grillid@grillid.is

Always on the top! Sigurður, our head chef, represents Iceland in the Bocuse d´Or* and we are immensely proud of him.

We offer only the freshest ingredients available, prepared in a light and modern manner with an emphasis on creativity and exciting flavour combinations. The outstanding view from the top of the Radisson BLU Saga Hotel where Grillið Restaurant is located makes your visit unforgettable. * The Bocuse d’Or is a world chef championship and is one of the world's most prestigious cooking competitions taking place in Lyon in January 2015 REYKJAVÍK living 41

Radisson BLU Saga Hotel 8th floor tel. 525 9960 www.grillid.is

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Enjoy a

relaxing holiday

Laugar Spa

REYKJAVĂ?K living 43

“

The luxury health spa is a bastion of relaxation. It's also a great place to snooze after a workout.

44 REYKJAVÍK living

- Elliott Hester, The Morning Star

“

Enjoy a

relaxing holiday

Laugar Spa

Situated in the heart of Reykjavik, Laugar Spa offers a wellness center for your whole family. Enjoy our luxury health spa and ensure your body and soul feel their best. Laugarâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s outdoor and indoor thermal pools, beauty and massage clinic, unique fitness center combined with luxury spa will help you breeze into a wonderful and relaxing holiday. Laugar, together with the fitness center and the Spa, offer you the best total health and body experience Iceland has to offer.

Laugar Sundlaugarvegur 30a 105 Reykjavik Tel. +354 553 0000 www.laugarspa.is

Laugar Opening hours Mon - Fri 06:00 - 23:30 Sat 08:00 - 22:00 Sun 08:00 - 20:00

REYKJAVĂ?K living 45

Photo: Anna Guðmundsdóttir - www.flickr.com/photos/anna9370

The Viking Horse Surviving the unforgiving nature The Icelandic horse is in a league of its own. Though hardy, athletic and sure-footed, it is spirited, het friendly and adaptable. The five gaits is what sets ist apart from all other horses. The fifth gait is called tölt, a very smooth four-beat gait. While reaching speed similar to fast trotting, it is far less jolting to the rider. The average Icelandic horse is 13-14 hands tall. It is versatile, bred to carry adults at a fast pleasing gait over long distances. It is distinctive for its thick and often double-sided mane and long tail and remarkable for its wide range of colours. What makes the Icelandic horse interesting is its genetic purity. It has been the only horse breed since the Viking era. Already in 1882 Althingi (the Icelandic government) passed a law forbidding any import of horses. A law which is still valid today and even more strict. Today, used bits, bridles, health products, brushes etc. are included in the list of things that can not reenter the island. An Icelandic horse exported to other countries can never return. Ever. And indeed, virtually all contagious diseases, from which horses on the European continent and the US suffer, are unknown in Iceland. 46 REYKJAVÍK living

In the early 20th century the Icelandic horse was an all-purpose animal, taking on chores carried out by different breeds in the wider world. Driving carts and harvesting tools, serving as pack-animals, used for riding, of course, and they were also food. They still are. The horse was the only means of travel in the rugged coutryside where they even swam over deep glacial rivers with their passengers intact. pendent on their horses for centuries. Lack of roads is possibly the reason why it is so sure-footed. For breeding, the Icelandic farmers chose the horses most outstandingly sure on tracks, and rocks, moors and steep hillsides. Our unforgiving nature made its choice. It is most certainly a question of the survival of the fittest. The Icelandic horse has been exported, mainly to Europe and the US. Nearly 90.000 of them are now living abroad, never to return. The funny thing though is the tradition all over the world to provide the horses with Icelandic names. It is a lovely tradition, honouring the deep roots this amazing animal has in the Icelandic culture.. ■

Riding in Iceland with Eldhestar Greatest Variety of Riding Tours just Outside Reykjavik

www.eldhestar.is » Tel: +354 480 4800

Photos: Anna Guðmundsdóttir - www.flickr.com/photos/anna9370

REYKJAVÍK living 47

Golfing Iceland might become the adventure of a lifetime PLAYING GOLF AT MIDNIGHT surrounded by lava fields. This may sound too strange to be true. But not in Iceland! Midnight golf is available in summer due to Iceland’s northerly location. The sun shines round the clock in the end of May, all June and July. It’s wonderful to play in the midnight sun when the moon is trying to win over the sky but after a long fight and dance in the ring called galaxy, the moon has to accept losing to the strong and brighter power. In Iceland you can find all the challenges you could possibly imagine from the creative and powerful nature. It’s possible to fight against, and try to concur all the different challenges of nature that you can think of. One-tenth of Iceland’s surface is adorned with lava. Sweeping mountains and majestic ocean views characterise Icelandic golf courses, which follow the contours of the naturally dramatic landscape, a popular trend in golf course design today. Their design pays tribute to the first and therefore oldest golf courses in Scotland. ■

• The first documentation of golfing in Iceland is from the year 1912. • A good number of Icelanders have been playing golf with passion since early 1930’s. • The first golf clubs in Iceland were GK Iceland, founded in 1934. • GK Akureyri was founded in 1935 and GK Vestmannaeyjar was founded in 1938. • GSI aka Golf association of Iceland was founded in 1942. • The number of golf courses are close to 70, includin courses for practice before golf competition.

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GOLF AROUND THE CLOCK?

Most of Icelandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s sixty golf courses are set in spectacular scenery where nature and lava play a major part in the experience. Try some of our sixty different golf courses around the country. You can also golf in the midnight sun in Iceland May through July.

www.golficeland.org

REYKJAVĂ?K living 49 Contact the reception or visit www.golficeland.org

Photos: www.ragnarfreyr.blog.is/blog/ragnarfreyr

Healthy Food and the Sweetest Tooth Good food is essential for our well-being. We want it to look good, taste good and be good for our health. In Iceland that is precisely what you will find.

of business. So, you can be quite sure, wherever you have your meal, it will be good.

It is almost impossible to find a bad restaurant in Iceland. This health conscious nation wants its clean ingredients, non-processed meats, a lot of fish and their vegetables from the Icelandic greenhouses scattered around the geothermal areas.

But, of course we also have a sweet tooth – and love the Icelandic sweets. We even claim our chocolate, liquorice and other candy is the best in the world. We find it totally natural to be labelled the greatest candy-eaters in the northern hemisphere. It only goes to show how right we are about our chocolate.

The is a simple reason for all those good restaurants. With such a few inhabitants, news spreads fast. When a restaurant isn‘t up to the standards, the Icelanders simply boycott it and it goes out

Everybody has to eat, but of course not everybody needs to munch on sweets. Still, spoil yourself and taste the divine Icelandic chocolate and the various chocolate bars. It is simply divine. ■

Vitinn Seafood Restaurant in the Fishing Village Sandgerði

Booking advance for groups at: Tel: +354 423 7755 Info@vitinn.is - www.Vitinn.is

50 REYKJAVÍK living

The restaurant specialises in keeping seafood at the top of its varied menu, which also includes lamb and chicken dishes. The Vitinn’s menu offers whole langoustine and whole plaice, but the fruits de mer platter is the restaurant’s centrepiece. The food is freshly cooked. Dining at Vitinn is a very inspiring introduction to Iceland. The restaurant interior, with its richly coloured wooden walls and beams, is adorned with mementos from both Sandgerði’s agricultural and seafaring past. In summer months, diners can enjoy their meal outside in the garden and watch crabs in our specially equipped aquarium.

SAVOUR THE BEST ICELAND HAS TO OFFER, BE IT FISH OR MEAT, OFF THE FRENCH PLANCHE OR FROM OUR CHARCOAL OVEN. THE CELL AR HAS FOOD TO FIT EVERY MOOD AND OCCASION, WHETHER YOU’RE UP FOR FINGER FOOD O R A F E A S T O F P L E N T Y.

KJALLARINN

A Ð A L S T R Æ T I 2 • 1 0 1 R E Y K J AV Í K TEL: 517 7373 • WWW.KJALLARINN.IS

REYKJAVÍK living 51

Ves t

The Harbour

urg

ata

Lækjartorg

Parliment

Lau

gav

egu

Church Tower

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refo

The Pond

SURF’N TURF

T-BONE WHALE LAMB RIB-EYE TBONE RIB-EYE LAMB

PUFFIN

SEAFOOD

RIBS WHALE

LOBSTER

FOIE GRASLOBSTER Laugavegur 53b • 101 Reykjavík • Tel.: 511 3350 • www.hereford.isREYKJAVÍK living 53

An exquisite breed The tender and tasty Icelandic lamb so loved by the islanders Icelanders love their lamb and indeed claim it – unashamedly – to be the best lamb in the world. Being relentless travelers themselves, they will be sure to try lambmeat wherever they go, just to prove their point, shaking their head, wondering aloud why other countries can‘t produce lamb like „we do at home.“ Closer to game than other farm animals, the meat is exceptionally tender, its texture fine and nutritious enough to have carried many an Icelander, adult and child, through harsh winters and natural disasters. Though best fresh, it can be smoked, salted, pickled and frozen – still keeping its distinct quality. When producing high quality meat, you need unpoluted raw materials, and Icelandic sheep farmers can guarantee as much. Sheep farming in Iceland is as old as the settlement in Iceland itself. To this day the farmers have reared their sheep by methods established by centuries of tradition, with most farms familyowned and operated. The lambs are entirely reared outdoors, roaming moors and mountains throughout the long summer days, feasting on sedge, willow, thrift, campion and berries – making the Icelandic lamb instantly recognizable for the delicious and distinctive taste. It is closer to game than farm animals. Most of Iceland‘s lamb productions is based on sustainable harvesting of the bounties of nature. The use of hormones is prohibited and antibiotics are strictly regulated. The Icelandic climate, clean air and abundant supply of fresh mountain water make the use of pesticides and herbicides unnecessary. The cool climate protects the land against many diseases and pests which plague agriculture in warmer latitudes. Due to Iceland‘s geo54 REYKJAVÍK living

graphical isolation and agricultural regulation which prohibits the import of live animals, many common livestock diseases are unknown in Iceland. In a world where comsumers are becoming inreasingly conscious of their health, food must be safe to eat, pure and nutritious. For these reasons the Icelandic lamb is recognized throughout the world for its healthy nutritional value and unique taste. The Icelandic sheep is a direct descendant of the sheep first brought to the island by the Viking settlers. It has not been crossbred by importing other breeds. The cool climate influences the composition of the plants the sheep graze on. The lambs move freely through wild pastures and pristine mountainous landscapes. This, and the young age of slaughter (4-5 months) give the meat unique qualities and properties. The muscle has a high proportions of Omega-3 fatty acids and iron, providing the meat with its wild game flavours. The distictive taste is a result of the wild pastures; the grass as well as the aromatic and spicy herbs on which the lambs graze. The meat is exceptionally tender, with fine texture due to its high amount of red muscle fibres, influenced both by the breed and the grazing habits. The lamb is perfect match to any herbs and spices. It can be adapted to all the diverse world cuisines. Still the Icelanders have their own traditions. The meat being so clean and nutritions, they will eat it raw, undercooked and overcooked, baked, grilled and boiled, in soups and casseroles. The majority of restaurants in Iceland offer a variety of lamb dishes on their menu – but, if you have a chance of the traditional Icelandic Lambmeat-soup, don‘t let it slip by. ■

THE STEAK HOUSE

Steikhúsið simply means „The Steak House” and that underlines our goal, to focus solely on steaks. The Steak house is in the middle of Reykjavík, opposite the old harbor which has recently formed into a lively neighborhood of restaurants, cafes and artisan stores and work shops. When you wisit us, remember to try our “28 days” tendered meat. The heart of the place is a coal oven from Mibrasa, Spain. It is only fitting that we use coal for grilling and baking The Building housed a blacksmith and metal works in years gone by.

THE KITCHEN IS OPEN FROM 17:00 TILL LATE — VISIT WWW.STEAK.IS

Booking: +354 561 1111 & steik@steik.is REYKJAVÍK living 55

West Iceland Cradle of history Weatherwise, West Iceland is the most fortunate part of the island. It is one of the most loved parts by the natives, not least for its soft and warm beauty and prominent contrasts in nature. Though partly covered with lava and reaching into the barren highlands, most of West Iceland is quite rich and fertile, excellent for farming and great for golfing, not least under the blazing red skies of the Midnight Sun. Indeed, almost every town and village has its own golf course – no matter how small the community – ranging from nine to eighteen holes.

West Iceland is generally diveded into three main parts. In the southernmost part is Borgarbyggð, home to most of the Egil‘s Saga, with the largest birch forest in Iceland, diverse types of lava fields, crates and caves, beautiful waterfalls, and Langjökull, a glacier accessible in summertime. With its soft and warm beauty it sports hundreds of summer camps and cottages scattered around the area. During the summer the camping site at Húsafell practically transforms into the largest community in West Iceland.

West Iceland is an area where culture, nature and history merge, creating a unique experience. There you‘ll find the settings for the greatest Icelandic Sagas: Egils‘s Saga, Eyrbyggja, Laxdæla and Sturlunga. Of special interest is the Settlement Centre in Borgarnes, a heritage museum and theatre with various Saga related productions in English – as well as an excellent restaurant offering delicacies from the fertile farming areas of West Iceland.

In the middle is Snæfellsnes – home to Eyrbyggja Saga and part of Laxdæla. This georgeous peninsula, with the famous glacier Snæfellsjökull within the Snæfellsnes National Park, is supposed to be the entrance to the Centre of the Earth. Scattered around the peninsula are lovely fishing villages, tranquil fjords, majestic mountains, and the Berserk lava fields. Trips to the top of the glacier are an unforgettable experience – as is hiking through the lava filed with its lovely lakes, stunning formations and stone bridges.

56 REYKJAVÍK living

The northernmost part is Dalir, the domain of the great explorers, Eirik the Red and his son, Leifur the Lucky who was the first European to set foot in America. It is also home to the most romantic and dramatic of the Sagas, Laxdæla. The museum at Eiríksstaðir is dedicated to Eirik the Red and Leifur the Lucky – but the real treat is Laugar in Sælingsdalur – former homestead of Gudrun, the heroine of Laxdæla. West Iceland has a lot to offer. The outdoors lovers will find endless hiking trails, from easy to hard, over moors and mountains, along the coast, through valleys, forests and lava fields. Quite a number of companies offer guided horse riding tours and guided jeep tours along the beaches or into the mountains, in addition to snowmobile tours onto the glaciers. Further, there is vast number of salmon rivers and trout lakes throughout the area, great for fishing. With great geothermal conditions, the area has vast numbers of greenhouses and outdoor swimming pools.

For the history and culture fans West Iceland contains a variety of nature and saga exhibitions and museums, as well as beautiful handicrafts and art galleries. For a leisurely stay, West Iceland has excellent restaurants and cafés, ranging from by-the-road cafés to high quality restaurants offering fresh ingredients from the great agricultural areas in the region. There is also a vast number of geothermal outdoors swimming pools with hot tubs to relax and enjoy the warm summer days. West Iceland offers a range of accommodations, from a variety of camping sites, to B&Bs, from cottages to guesthouses, from Open Farms to luxury hotels. ■

REYKJAVÍK living 57

Westfjords Nature lovers paradise The Westfjords region has sometimes been dubbed “the most famous unknown place in Iceland”. A sparsely populated area (7.400 inhabitants), it is home to the arctic fox, a dizzying variety of birdlife, and breathtaking nature. No wonder the Westfjords received the prestigious “European Destination of Excellence” awards, as well as landing on the top 10 places to visit by Lonely Planet in 2011.

a nature reserve will leave you breathless. Totally uninhabited during winter, it is revered by the Icelanders who flock there for hiking and legendary boat trips during the summer.

With precipitous cliffs plunging almost vertically to the deep blue seas below, its multitude of beautiful fjords, its hot springs, pure streams and waterfalls, it’s a place for the nature lover to be awed by its silence and tranquility. It is untouched, almost uninhabited, with a handful of lovely fishing villages scattered almost haphazardly throughout the area. And though remote, it is easily accessible with roads crossing moors and mountains, displaying magnificent views.

And, of course, the fjords are the setting for one of the famous Sagas, Gísla saga Súrssonar – translated into film by one of Iceland’s most renowned filmmakers – now available with English subtitles.

In the Westfjords you will find two of the largest seabird cliffs in north Atlantic. Látrabjarg, the biggest, is the most westerly point of Europe with its cliffs rising to 440m. It is home to the biggest gathering of seabirds in the north Atlantic. Hornstrandir, 58 REYKJAVÍK living

The locals are easy going, friendly, and curiously cosmopolitan. They are no strangers to the latest currents in technology, ideas of fun and leisurely pleasures. Hospitable and helpful, they will make sure the visit is worth your while. ■

Welcomes you

Panoramio.com - olafial

Hótel Djúpavík

Our Hotel is Open All Year Round Accommodation, Catering, Hiking, Boat and Kayak Rentals Remember the History Exhibition at Djúpavík Cancelations have to be made as early as possible. Individuals should cancel at least 3 days before arrival. If reservations for groups are cancelled with less than 8 weeks notice, a payment of 25% of reservation´s total value can be required.

Hótel Djúpavík

Tel. +354 451 4037 djupavik@snerpa.is www.djupavik.is

Find us on Facebook https://www.facebook/ hotel.djupavik?fref=ts

REYKJAVÍK living 59

North Iceland From the mythical to the menacing All seasons of the year are seasons of fun in North Iceland. It is an expansive, enchanting region, where you can find all of Iceland's attractive aspects; walking, hiking, swimming, golfing, fishing, horse-riding, skiing, snowmobiling, jeep-tours into the highlands, river-rafting, geothermal bathing. You’ll find arts and culture, lovely accommodation and restaurants, as well as Christmas – even in the middle of summer. During summer it is sensational, during winter it is a wonderland. North Iceland has mountains and hot-springs, glacial rivers and majestic waterfalls, volcanic craters, picturesque lava-fields, vast highland sandscapes and other geological wonders. Flourishing villages and farming communities, soaring mountain peaks, offshore islands and a landscape in formation make the North of Iceland a unique world of its own.

Activities through day and night In the western part of the region, volcanic forces are no longer active, and since the end of the Ice Age the landscape has been sculpted by rivers into smooth hills interspersed with some of Iceland’s finest angling rivers, especially in Húnavatnssýsla which is also home to excellent horse-breeding farms, that train horses and jocks alike. Along with Skagafjörður, this is the area 60 REYKJAVÍK living

to rent horses for an hour or for days to embark on horse-trips into the wilderness of the highlands or along the arctic coasts. Trout fishing in the numerous lakes located on the moor between the two shires during the light summer nights is a wonderful experience. And, on the west side of the moor you’ll be delighted to find Iceland’s only country-western village at Skagaströnd, which also invites you to play golf on its spectacularly beautiful nine-hole golf course. On either side of Eyjafjörður rise high, ancient mountain ranges opening here and there into valleys, and in the north, marine erosion has created splendid cliffs. No wonder this area is popular with mountain hikers and skiers all year round. From the beautiful Siglufjörður, south to Ólafsfjörður and Dalvík, the area is packed with possibilities for nature lovers who wish to embark on extraordinary adventures.

The diverse part Further east, fresh lava flows, fissures and gullies are clues to recent volcanic activity and the continuously restless earth. Stop by at Húsavík, home to the Whale Museum and renowned for its whale-watching tours.

North Iceland is Iceland’s most diverse region. Nature varies from the soft and mystical to the harsh and menacing. It is bursting with history, folklore and stories of human endurance. Thus, you’ll find museums in almost every town and village, celebrating the Icelandic way of life during the centuries, the herring era and the music, the whaling and the handicrafts, the harnessing of waterfalls and the story-telling, to name but a few. In ancient times a catastrophic glacial flood smashed through rock to gouge out the canyon of the river Jökulsá á Fjöllum and the huge sunken valley Ásbyrgi, which now form a magnificent National Park. Just a short distance away is the beautiful Lake Mývatn, famous for its picturesque natural surroundings, geothermal activity, and unique birdlife.

Unspoiled nature Most of the lowland areas have been inhabited since time immemorial by farmers and fishermen. In recent times remote spots such as the region east of Eyjafjörður, Melrakkaslétta and

Langanes in the far northeast have become largely uninhabited, but they remain popular with travelers in search of unspoiled nature and the ultimate tranquility. For those who like camping, North Iceland is quite a treat, with quite a number of beautiful and well equipped camping sites. The Capital of the North is Akureyri; a beautiful town with picturesque old houses, a lovely Botanical Garden, excellent restaurants and cafés. Akureyri is the centre of education, culture and services in the region, offering an endless range of activities, events, arts and entertainment, all year round. Apart from traditional hotels, Akureyri has a vast range of guesthouses where you can enjoy the hospitality of the northern people, who are – in spite of harsh natural forces – exceptionally refined. ■

REYKJAVÍK living 61

A town of endless

62 REYKJAVĂ?K living

Wonders

Akureyri is Iceland‘s capital of the north. It‘s mayor, Eiríkur Björn Björnsson explains why it is so well loved by Icelandic and foreign tourists alike Akureyri is a favoured destination amongst Icelanders. The picturesque capital of the north is considered the most beautiful town in Iceland and it has a lot to offer. The summers are usually warm and sunny displaying exceptional fauna, great outdoors possibilities, wonderful cafés and restaurants. It has a leisurely atmosphere, still offering exciting activities and adventures. During winters it is an excellent skiing resort and a venue for all kinds of winter sports with easy access to the highlands. Adventures are at Akureyri‘s doorstep, so to speak. The cultural life is rich. Akureyri has a respected art school and is crowded with designers and artists, exhibiting in museums and galleries around town. You will find a symphony orchestra with regular performances, a vast number of musical groups of all genres – an impressive culture hall and a theatre housed in a beautiful wooden building, built in 1906.

Something in the air? Eiríkur Björn Björnsson has been Akureyri‘s mayor since 2010, Well liked by all political parties and thus rehired when Akureyri elected a new town council in 2014. When asked why Akureyri is such a popular destination amongst Icelanders and foreign tour-

ists, Eiríkur says: „Well, could it be something in the air? I think it is a question of the location, the atmosphere, the culture and the weather. We are used to mild and lovely summers and cold winters and that‘s the way we like it. Naturally, we welcome the heavy snow during winter as it only serves to make our skiing resort at Hlíðarfjall more appealing. Akureyri has a lot to offer, much like huge cities abroad, still without their drawbacks. We find that foreign tourists are often amazed to find here all the amenities we require in this day and age. Two cinemas, museums and galleries, the cultural hall Hof with its auditoriums etc. Still, it is a small town with only 18.000 inhabitants. Which is also one of Akureyri‘s prime qualities. Everything is short distance and you can walk everywhere. I really like being able to work by my desk until five minutes before I have to be in a meeting somewhere. Then it is just up and go. Then, there is the mountain range. When you come to Akureyri you are practically embraced by the mountains with Súlur majestically rising and cradling the town, the beautiful Vaðlaheiði to the east and by the estuary Kaldbakur lies like a polar bear on its paws, like Laxness, our Nobel prize writer, wrote a while ago.“ REYKJAVÍK living 63

A town with many faces With Icelanders liking the local culture and atmosphere one wonders what it is like for foreign tourists. „We offer such variety,“ says Eiríkur. „There is a reason Akureyri has been labelled a cultural town, an academic town and a sports town. Our sporting facilities are first rate and we keep on improving them. We have great sports halls where you can play soccer indoors and the elderly can take their strolls during winter, a gymnastics hall, a skating hall, an excellent skiing resort, a golf course, sailing facilities and so on. There are endless possibilities for the inhabitants – and thus for our guests. For the cultural minded the choices are at times mind-boggling. Which concert to attend, which recital, which theatre production? There are also endless lectures and talks on diverse subjects on offer. Our museums are much appreciated by our guests, always offering exceptionally interesting exhibitions and installations – and then there is a vast number of galleries all over town. Last, but not least, is Græni hatturinn (The Green Hat) one of the most popular musical venues in Iceland. A place loved by audience and musicians alike. With the increasing flow of tourists an endless variety of leisure activities has become available. You can take guided sightseeing tours all over the place, rent a bike, go whale-watching or ponytrekking, discover our islands, Hrísey and Grímsey, play badmin64 REYKJAVÍK living

ton to name but a few. And then there is our swimming-pool. It is the central meeting place in the area and I read somewhere the best place in Akureyri to have a jolly good time.“

The upside of fincancial crisis If you brought your camping gear along, Akureyri has two excellent camping grounds. One in the hills by the south border of town, the other smack in the centre. The facilities are quite good and they are open during the summer. For those who don‘t like camping, there is a whole variety of accommodation. Hostels, guesthouses, hotels of all price ranges – and a brand new Icelandair hotel by the swimming pool. Whereas restaurants and cafés are concerned, you can have most anything you wish. Italian, Asian, Icelandic, international, health and fusion kitchens are in the centre and due to the excellent local raw material, you will most surely like what you eat. „I think Iceland has changed a lot since the financial crisis in 2008,“ says Eiríkur. „The more realistic value of our currency has infused tourism in Iceland. Ten to fifteen years ago foreign tourists were practically a spectacle here in Akureyri and we would only seem them between end of June and beginning of August. Now, we receive tourists during the whole year. They visist us individually as well as part of larger organized tour-groups.“ During winter people visit Akureyri to gaze at the specatcular

SOUVENIR SHOP S H OP OF T HE Y E A R 2 0 1 2

The viking:info Laugavegur 1 · Reykjavík Hafnarstræti 1 - 3 · Reykjavík Hafnarstræti 104 · Akureyri

info@theviking.is www.theviking.is

Akureyri Reykjavík

TAX FREE

REYKJAVÍK living 65

northern lights, experience the rare and real winter storms, enjoy the tranquility of still winter days of pristine snow. The world turns absolutely white and it is a sight to see. In the summer the whole area blooms in every colour imaginable – and the Akureyri Botanical Garden (the only one in Iceland) will strike you as the most beautiful place on earth.

The mayor‘s treat When asked where he would take foreign friends coming for a visit, Eiríkur says it would depend on the season. „During summer I would take them for a stroll arond town and explain highlights from the town‘s history to them - a history spannig 120 years. Then I would take them to the little shop Brynja, the only place you can enjoy an authentic Akureyri icecream. I would conclude the stroll in the museums Minjasafnið and Nonnahús known to have really captured our visitors‘ interests. Later in the day I would take them to inspect the coastline and the harbour, then off to Hof, our culture hall. After all this activity I would take them to the swimming-pool to relax and then to a dinner where they would get to taste the excellent local cuisine and, of course, the local beer. The next day I would take them to the tiny island, Hrísey, go sightseeing there in their green cart pulled by a tractor, visit the Shark Museum and taste some of the island‘s delicacies. Then we would go whale-watching or fishing and visit the Kaldi brewery on our way back home. The third day would be spent roaming around Listagilið (the Art and Design Walk) to inspect the variety of museums and galleries, as well as Akureyri‘s School of Art. I would drop in on the artist Guðmundur Ármann who would most certainly offer us a glass of his specially imported bio wine and educate us in a bit of art history. Then, we would be off to meet our priest at the Akureyri church who would tell us all about the church and its spectacular stained windows. In the evening I would take them for a lovely picnic in our forest, Kjarnaskógur.“ 66 REYKJAVÍK living

Arctic circle and midnight sun „I would fly them to Grímsey on the fourth day. We have a scheduled flight there from Akureyri in the morning. There you can cross the arctic circle and the island sports a spectacular bird-life. Sailing around the island is also a great treat. During midsummer, Grímsey gives the best view of the midnight sun as it never sets. Day five would be spent cycling the Eyjafjörður circle. The first destination would be the Christmas House which is always a joy, not least in the summertime. To find the spirit of christmas in the middle of summer is quite something. The next stop would be at Silva, the raw-food restaurant and later we would take our coffee at Kaffi Kú (Café Cow) which is a real high-tech cowshed and quite interesting. We would return to Akureyri by noon to have lunch at Bautinn, one of the oldest restaurants in Iceland. In the afternoon we would relax in the town centre, visit cafés and enjoy the atmosphere. In the evening I would take them to the Green Hat for some music. After those five days I would be absolutely certain my guests had enjoyed their visit. They would be returning home quite happy wherever they live in the world. Now, that would be my schedule for summer guests. If they came during winter, we would naturally take to the mountains. ■

Allinn is a restaurant and sport bar were you can enjoy dining all from pizza to steak, herring and fish.In our 3 rooms we offer our guests to watch football matches or if your her on bissnes we cater to large groups and have grade facilities for meatings. Allinn also offers you life music.

We hope to see you soon Aðalgata 30, 580 Siglufirði Tel: 467-1111

Accommodation and Adventure In North Iceland

Bakkaflöt

ÍSLAND

Bakkaflöt-Bátafjör

Whitewater River rafting www.bakkaflot.com - Phone: 354 453 8245 / 354 453 8099 REYKJAVÍK living 67

Camping Place Heiðarbær in Reykjahverfi is located between Húsavík and Mývatn, 20 km away from Húsavík and 35 km from Mývatn, at the road 87. Heiðarbær is a camping place and a parking area for caravans and dormobiles, with sanitary facilities. Heiðarbær also has a sleeping-bag accommodation, store, swimming pool and restaurant.

Silva

Syðra-Laugaland efra in Eyjafjarðarsveit Open 12:00-20:00 every day of the week from June 1st – August 31st Open for reservations only during winter

Heiðarbær welcomes you

Open every day from 11am - 24pm. Tel. +354 4643903 • E-mail: heidarbaer@simnet.is

Courses: Raw food Vegetarian and vegan Soup and bread Also: Hot and cold drinks Cakes and deserts Smoothies and juices Wheatgrass and ginger shots

www.silva.is - E-mail: silva@silva.is - Tel.: +0354-851 1360

Welcome to our

WOOL FACTORY SHOP

Ólafshús is a restaurant located in the heart of Sauðárkrókur

in Hvammstangi

We offer great variety of food for a reasonable price.

A Great selection of knitwear!

KIDKA

Most of our food is from Skagafjörður and we only offer food with great quality.

Open Monday-Friday from 8-18 and also on request

ehf

Höfðabraut 34, 530 Hvammstangi - Tel:+354 451 0060 - E-mail: kidka@simnet.is 68 REYKJAVÍK living

Ólafshús Restaurant

Aðalgötu 15 550 Sauðárkrókur tel. +354 453 6454 mail. videosport@simnet.is

Akureyri A Town of All Seasons The place to visit for an unforgettable time Akureyri is by Icelanders considered to be the most beautiful town on the island. Built on hills and mountain slopes, with the older part of the town exceptionally well preserved it is indeed picturesque. It has a lot to offer everybody. An Aviation museum, Technical museum, Motorbike museum, a Toy exhibition, an Art museum, galleries, great cafés and restaurants – and of course, a Christmas Garden open all year round. Akureyri is also a haven for the outdoorsy types. During winter it has the best ski-resort in Iceland and during summer the longest and best bike-riding track. A walk around the town makes for a lovely pastime, as Akureyri has a sample of every architecural style ever embarked upon in Iceland through the last 150 years or so.

Flowers and the famous ice-cream In the centre of town is the lovely Botanical Garden, where the sun always seems to shine. It is colourful and tranquil and has has a wonderful aroma. There you‘ll find a sample of all the plants that have survived the Icelandic climate – and more – either outdoors or in greenhouses. And, of course, the Botanical Garden has a beautiful café, designed to match the surrounding architecture. From the garden, you can take a stroll to Brynja, the oldest and most famous ice cream shop in Iceland.

You can rent a bike for a guided tour around the town – or a mountain-bike to brave the hills and mountains surrounding Akureyri.

Historical area Akureyri and the neighbouring areas have a long and rich history, and it is exceptionally pleasant to spend a day on a guided tour around the area with its historic churches and scenic landscape. A stroll through the oldest part of town to the south of the city centre is an unforgettable experience for those interested in old houses and historical museums. There you will find the oldest house in town, Laxdalshús, now a restaurant, and most of the museums before mentioned. The area‘s culture and history is rich, and many restaurants in town give you a chance to taste the local cuisine. Akureyri is a fantastic place to visit. With accommodations ranging from four-star hotels, through hostels, b&bs, and an amazing camping ground in the hills, one is always tempted to stay there for a longer period than originally planned. So, don‘t rush through. Treat yourself to the pleasant atmosphere of this northern town. And enjoy the food. Akureyri has a long standing as Iceland‘s best food production and food processing area in Iceland.

Throughout the surrounding area you‘ll find hiking-tracks criss-crossing the hills and the lovely local forest, Kjarnaskógur. Located by a deep fjord, with mountains and a forest, Akureyri has attracted bird-watchers for ages and has three exceptional bird-watching houses by Krossanesborgir, Naustaborgir and by estuary of the river Eyjafjarðará. All the houses are equipped with a map of the species living in the area.

The two beautiful islands in the fjord, Hrísey and Grímsey, have recently became a part of Akureyri municipality. They also are a must to visit with a magnificent birdlife, little villages and nice hiking paths suitable for anyone. Regular ferry trips to Hrísey are carried out from Ársskógssandur harbor and to Grímsey from the village Dalvík.

During summer 2014, Akureyri is introducing some novelties, like whalewatching along the beautiful fjord of Eyjafjörður.

For further information have a look at www.visitakureyri.is/en, www.visitgrimsey.is as well as www.hrisey.net/en ■ REYKJAVÍK living 69

East Iceland Where magic resides East Iceland is a magical region of natural phenomena, with glaciers, forests, bird cliffs, wilderness, black highland deserts, majestic mountains and picturesque fjords. Small villages and communities, cradling by the deep fjords are welcoming, each with their distinct features, local cuisine, great museums and local festivals – as well as lovely hotels and guesthouses. Hoards of reindeer roam mountains and highlands during summer, braving down to the lowlands in winter. Hike along the beautiful rivers with their multitudes of cascading waterfalls and you’ll be able to observe them in their natural habitat. And, of course, you’ll be able to taste their tender meat at some of the local restaurants. The characteristics of the villages are due to the region’s rich history. Enjoying proximity to incredible fishing grounds the region has hosted a variety of European nations during the centuries; fishermen, traders, entrepreneurs and adventure seekers. The influence is quite apparent still in the architecture, handicraft, memorabilia, and cuisine.

70 REYKJAVÍK living

East Iceland is another gateway to Vatnajökull, the largest glacier in Europe. Guided tours to the north and east part of the glacier are a rare treat with ethereal landscape and unforgettable views over lava sculptures and troll-like formations from glacial eruptions. East Iceland is fabulous for history buffs and culture fans, hikers and kayakers, leisure travelers and gourmets alike. It simply has magic. ■

Since its establishment, Nói Síríus has grown to become the largest confectionery manufacturer in Iceland. Although we manufacture a diverse range of products, chocolate is our speciality: semi-sweet, bitter and milk chocolate in a variety of shapes and sizes. Rooted in our deep passion for chocolate is our never ending commitment to quality that will enhance your sweet memory of Iceland.

REYKJAVÍK living 71

The Reykjanes peninsula

Nature's Gallery Did you ever imagine stepping of an aircraft at an international airport to be a stone’s throw away from exhilarating natural wonders? Probably not, but in Iceland that airport is located on the Reykjanes peninsula, an exceptionally active geothermal area and until recently much ignored by the tourist industry. Which is really amazing as it is possibly Icelandic nature at its wildest with its barren and rugged stretches of lava fields and coarse black beaches.

A short distance away you will find ramps crisscrossing in and out of an otherworldly area with steam rising from the ground, from Gunnuhver, which marks the future geopark of hot mud springs and steam vents. Right by this area you can visit a Power Plant where Iceland’s geothermal water is harvested.

It is the area where you can easily experience the geothermal wonders of hot springs and steam vents and where you can safely look down to observe fresh magma pulsating by your feet. You will, of course, have heard about the peninsula’s most famous landmark, the Blue Lagoon, where you can enjoy bathing outside in the crisp, clean air while immersed in warm, natural, and self-renewable geothermal water.

The Power Plant Earth is an exhibition located in the Power Plant not far from the edge of Reykjanes, the Reykjanes Lighthouse and Bridge between two Continents. The location is in one of Iceland’s most beautiful lava fields. Whether during summer’s midnight sun or winter’s northern lights, Reykjanes is an extraordinary and magical place to visit.

From the Blue Lagoon you drive the short distance to the town of Grindavík and turn towards the tip of the peninsula where all the natural activity is happening. It boasts the country’s best preserved volcanic craters, endless numbers of caves and expansive lava fields. By the tip you can literally take a walk between Europe and America by the acclaimed “Bridge Between two Continents.”

The Reykjanes Lighthouse is Iceland’s oldest lighthouse and remarkably built on top of a crater and located by steep cliffs with a sheer fall into the ocean. The cliffs are easily accessed by light trails and really worth the short hike as they display a dizzying number of sea-birds – and a spectacular view towards the Atlantic Ocean horizon. ■

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Panorama 1 hour ATV tour

Lava Beach 2 hour ATV tour

You will experience:

Trip to the Moon 3-4 hour ATV tour

You will experience:

Spectacular mountain view Black sandy beach and old ruins Gravel mountain road Rugged coastline

Dramatic shipwrecks Mountain Safari View over the Blue Lagoon and the island of Eldey Moss-covered lava all around

Black sandy beach where Clint Eastwood made his film Flags of Our Fathers Hot chocolate and twisted donuts Bridge between two continents Oldest lighthouse in Iceland

Tours starts at our base: 10:00 / 12:00 / 14:00 and 17:15. Minimum: No minimum Children: 50% discount for children under 17. Age limit: 6 years old but driver´s license is required for ATV driver..

Tours starts at our base: 12:00 and 14:00. Minimum: No minimum. Children: Under 17 get a 50% discount. Age limit: 6 years old but driver´s license is required for ATV driver.

Price 9,900 ISK per person for two on a bike. Add 3,000 ISK per person for a single bike.

Price 16,900 ISK per person for two people on a bike. Add 3,500 ISK for a bike for a single person.

Volcanic Safari 6-7 hour ATV tour

Tours starts at our base: 10:00. Minimum: No minimum. Children: Under 17 get a 50% discount. Age limit: 6 years old but driver´s license is required for ATV driver. Price 22,000 ISK per person for two people on a bike. Add 5,000 ISK for a bike for a single person.

You will experience: Seltún thermal area Gunnuhver hot spring Volcanic craters all around Bird cliffs Black sandy beaches

Tours starts at our base: 10:00. Minimum: No minimum. Children: Under 17 get a 50% discount. Age limit: 6 years old but driver´s license is required for ATV driver. Price 42,000 ISK per person for two people on a bike. Add 10,000 ISK for a bike for a single person.

Pick-up in Reykjavík or Keflavík costs 3,400 ISK per person. Pick-up for 1-hour tour is 8:30 / 10:30 / 12:30 and 15:45. Pick-up for 2-hour tour is 12:00 and 14:00. Pick-up for 3 to 4-hour tour is 8:30. Pick-up for 6 to 7-hour tour is 8:30. We are located just five minutes from the Blue Lagoon so after all our tours you can relax in the Blue Lagoon no extra cost for transfer just admission fee to the Blue Lagoon. After all our tours you can go to the Airport for no extra cost call us for more info.

We are only 5 min. from the Blue Lagoon. 20 min. from Keflavík Airport. 40 min. from Reykjavík city centre. ATV ADVENTURES ICELAND

Lavatours.is - info@atv4x4.is - +354-857-3001

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South Iceland The Geological Wonderland South Iceland is a region of contrasts. With pristine white glaciers, sands black as coal – fertile farmlands, barren moors– saphire green forests, blue mountains – and then fabulous waterfalls, hot springs and geysers. South Iceland owes its diversity to the fact that the majority of the island‘s volcanoes are located along the south coast. Most of them are still active and from time to time display majestic eruptions with red hot lava bleeding from the core, constantly reshaping the surface. But it doesn‘t stay the same for long as other forces of nature – weather, rivers, glaciers – keep chiseling away, sculpting new landscape, new scenery.

A curious place It may sound hostile and inaccessible, but don‘t forget that Icelanders have been living there for a thousand years and then some. They have learnt to respect and enjoy the powerful nature. They know when to stay put and when to embark on expeditions into the mythical wilderness. They love their nature; its colours, its texture, its views, its nakedness. Especially attractive are the highlands – easily accessible from various places in the south – 74 REYKJAVÍK living

a curious place for those interested in geology. The highlands contain a vast number of geysers, natural hot tubs, and endless mountains and rock formations. Many find hiking the ideal way to observe and enjoy such a geologically young landscape and indeed the view from many a mountain top is breathtaking, unveiling a rainbow of colours from the vast number of minerals collected from the earth‘s core throughout the centuries. Resting on a mountain top, reading the land, is pure joy. But, there are other ways as well. Horses, snowmobiles, and specially adapted trucks provide an easy access to the Icelandic wilderness and you will find quite a range of companies equipped to take you on a guided tour into the mountains.

Glacier experience South Iceland has a vast number of hiking trails crisscrossing through mountains and valleys, moors and across rivers, as well as horse trails and jeep trails. It also has exciting rivers for rafting as well as lakes for rowing and fishing.

The region also holds the majority of the glaciers found in Ice land, among them the famous Eyjafjallajökull and Vatnajökull, the biggest glacier in Europe, located within the Vatnajökull National Park. Expeditions onto the glacier are quite an experience and on offer to tourists. The glacial landscape with its menacing peaks and bottomless voids is worth many a photo moment. And when driving south of this magnificent glacier, be sure to take a break at Jökulsárlón, the glacier lagoon and take a half hour boat trip that wends its way in a specially designed craft between the massive blocks of ice in the awsome stillness of the lagoon.

Tales of ruin and healing People living in South Iceland are friendly and hospitable. They all have tales to tell of surviving the ever changing and rich

nature, of forces of ruin, forces of healing. They have learnt to harness these forces for agriculture and horticulture, thus producing fresh and organic ingredients for restaurants, bistros and cafés found throughout the area. Accommodation is not a problem in the south. Ranging from luxurly hotels, to Open Farms to cottages and camping sites, you will be taken good care of. Laundry service is usually on site and wherever you stay you‘ll find a grocery store, a geothermal swimming-pool, a golf course and a wonderful museum just a short distance away. ■ REYKJAVÍK living 75

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Nature

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Art

History

www.photo.is - Kjartan Sigurðsson

Árborg

Sanctuary of the South

THE ÁRBORG REGION consists of three of Southern Iceland´s most interesting spots – the thriving town of Selfoss and two small villages, Eyrarbakki and Stokkseyri. The area offers numerous options for recreation and relaxation, while the unusual landscape, a fascinating mix of vast lava fields and beaches of black volcanic sand, provides a lovely backdrop to any trip. Visitors can enjoy a wide selection of restaurants, cafés, galleries, museums and swimming pools, along with a nine-hole golf course in Selfoss.

SELFOSS is the main service centre in the South and approximately 50 km from the capital Reykjavík. In addition to a variety of restaurants and shops, this friendly town has an outdoor swimming pool with a steam bath and hot tubs – perfect after a long day of travelling! A little to the north are the woodlands of Hellisskógur, scattered with footpaths by the Ölfusá river. All types of accommodation are available. For more tourist information visit the Tourist Information Centre in the Public Library.

Tourist Information Centre

EYRARBAKKI used to have South Iceland´s most important harbour. The Eyrarbakki Maritime Museum is therefore a popular attraction along with the Árnessýsla Folk Museum, located in “the House”, a legendary building dating back to 1765. In fact, a visit to Eyrarbakki is like going back 100 years or so in time, thanks to a large number of preserved houses from 1890 - 1920. In Eyrarbakki is a splendid restaurant, campsite, tourist information and guided tours at Staður and a beautiful black beach. To the North West is the Flói Bird Reserve, perfect for hiking and bird watching.

STOKKSEYRI is another village renowned for its unusual seashore. Maintaining its rich heritage of handcrafts and cultural life, Stokkseyri is home to a number of workshops and galleries, not to mention the Wildlife Museum, the Ghost Centre and the Icelandic Wonders (the Elves, Trolls and Northern Lights Museum) and the Hunting Museum. The bunkhouse “Þuríðarbúð” gives you a taste of what life was like for the fishermen in the old days. Stokkseyri has a splendid seafood restaurant, an outdoor swimming pool, kayak tours, a campsite and a wonderful black lava beach. ■

Hótel Selfoss Eyravegur 2, 800 Selfoss

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By Nature's Mercy Rangarþing eystra is a serene and beautiful municipality in south Iceland. Driving along the south coast one can hardly imagine it to be the home to Eyjafjallajökull volcano, which a few years ago halted all flights in middle and northern Europe. Emerald green, no trace of ash or fire to be seen, it is hard to visualise centuries of raging volcanic activity in the area. Still, it is home to Iceland‘s most ferocious volcanoes – and a close neighbour to the rest. It is precisely those active forces which make the area infinitely interesting for the traveller. It is the entrance to the most loved areas in the highlands, Þórsmörk being the most popular. The hiking trail from Skógar to Þórsmörk was all but obliterated during the Eyjafjallajökull eruption but has now been reclaimed. Without doubt it is one of the most interesting and memorable hiking trails in Iceland. Starting by the beautiful Skógarfoss, it takes you into the moors where several more breathtaking waterfalls are to be found. But, this interesting municipality is much more than ice and fire. It is the setting for the epic Njálssaga, the Saga most revered by the Icelanders. And in the town of Hvolsvöllur you‘ll find the Saga Centre which offers a unique opportunity to explore the vast and fascinating world of the Sagas; a world of mythology, ocean voyages and the discovery of new lands.

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Rangárþing eystra is also home of the great Skógar Folk Museum and the gateway to the Westman Islands, with the island‘s ferry docking in Landeyjahöfn. Further, Rangarþing eystra is part of the Katla Geopark, Iceland‘s most volcanically active area. With over 150 volcanic eruptions since the 9th century. A visit to Katla Geopark is highly recommended as it offers great possibilities to experience a true adventure. ■

Frost and Fire The Hotel by the hot springs Amazing location Surrounded by bubbling hot springs, a murmuring river and fauna quite exceptional for Iceland, Frost og Funi (Frost and Fire) Hotel in the town of Hveragerði is most certainly an experience you would not want to miss. And, where better to relax and reload your batteries than in this elegant bossom of natural wonders. Frost and Fire is an exceptionally well equipped Hotel to receive individuals, couples on a romantic weekend, family gatherings, business-meetings, and both large and small groups. All facilities are designed for relaxation and comfort, with a twelve-metre swimming pool, Kneipp baths with natural herbal bath salts and essential oil soaks, body washes, lotions and skin conditioners, a natural sauna and two hot-tubs by the river bank. After dipping in to the warm river Varmá you can even have a nice massage at the facilities. It also has a fully equipped meeting room and is thus ideal for business-meetings where the utmost concentration is needed. The Hotel is quite pleasing to the eye. Everything you see in the Restaurant has been made by the foremost Icelandic designers; be it cups and plates, furniture and lighting and even the tableclothes. The Restaurant is decorated by and Icelandic painter who has painted steam clouds on walls and ceilings. The Restaurant is lovely, serving breakfasts are largely made from quality organic farm produce. For the menu, choice smoked trout, a traditional cottace delicacy is from an exclusive supplier in the region. The eggs are harvested from free-range Icelandic hens and vegetable come from geothermally heated, environment-friendly greenhouses. And don‘t miss the homemade rye-bread baked in one of the hot-springs. You can also boil your eggs in the hot-spring in front of the guesthouse for breakfast.

The restaurant offers a la carte menu. The chef applies the slowcooking methods and most of the ingredients come from the local farmers. Frost and Fire is a welcoming Hotel, oozing with warmth, lovely scents from the flowers and the trees in the garden, and has lot to offer to all the senses. ■ REYKJAVÍK living 81

ICELANDIC WOOL DESIGN

SHOP / WORKSHOP SKÓLAVÖRÐUSTÍGUR 6A 101 REYKJAVÍK ICELAND TEL 562 6999 / 698 3413 MARIALOVISA.COM

Bókhlöðuhöfði Stykkishólmur Opening hours 13:00 - 18:00

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The Magical Mystery Tour Jökulsárlón is one place you would not want to miss in Iceland The Glacier Lagoon, Jökulsárlón, is possibly the most filmed location in Iceland. First seen in the opening scene of the James Bond film „A View to a Kill“ in 1985, it started attracting tourists from all over the world. But, they didn‘t just want to look at it. They wanted to experience it. The community around the lagoon realized the potential in fulfilling their visitors wishes and started sailing small boats among the huge icebergs floating in the lagoon, often going near enough to the glacier itself to watch the gigantic bergs breaking away. It started gradually, but soon caught up pace and during the summer 2012 about 80.000 visitors went on a boat-trip in with the company Jökulsárlón ehf. which has been taking tourists sailing among the majestic Icebergs for over 25 years.

Pristine and otherworldly The Lagoon is located in the eastern part of South Iceland by Breiðamerkurjökull, on of the glaciers forming Vatnajökull, the biggest glacier in Europe. It started forming after 1930 and today it measures 25 square kilometers. The depth being 250 metres making the lagoon the deepest lake in Iceland. It is ever changing as 200 metres break away from the glacier each year. The wildlife around the Jökulsárlón is rich indeed. It is a great place for bird-lovers to inspect a variety of birds close up, and in the lagoon a variety of fish, such as trout and salmon. All this wildlife attracts seals often seen floating on the icebergs or swimming in the lagoon.

Jökulsárlón is a magical place. The ice being over a thousand years old it is amazingly pristine and otherworldly as it takes on a quite a variety of the color blue.

Get a closer look Two types of boats are in use to take visitors sailing around this tranquil world. An Amphibian where the trip starts on land. The boat is driven into the lagoon where a guide explains the lagoon, its neighborhood and the wildlife while sailing between the magnificent icebergs. Or, to get an even better view and closer to the glacier, you can take a Zodiac trip where the captain serves as a guide. The Zodiac trips are not recommended for children under the age of ten. On the premises is a lovely café where tickets for the boat trip are sold. Naturally the lagoon is there to see all year round and just gazing at it is absolutely awesome. Jökulsárlón is truly one place in Iceland you would not want to miss. And sailing there is surely the magical mystery tour. The café has fixed opening hours, from June to August is 09.00 to 19.00; in April-May and September to October from 10.00 to 17.00. More information at www.icelagoon.is ■ REYKJAVÍK living 83

How to Drive

and how not to drive in Iceland

A RELATIVELY large percentage of foreign tourists in Iceland travel around the country by car. Conditions in Iceland are in many ways unusual, and often quite unlike those to which foreign drivers are accustomed. It is therefore very important to find out how to drive in this country. We know that the landscapes are beautiful, which naturally draws the attention of driver away from the road. But in order to reach your destination safely, you must keep your full attention on driving.

road. It is usually sheep, but sometimes horses and even cows can be in your path. This is common all over the country, and can be very dangerous. Sometimes a sheep is on one side of the road and her lambs on the other side. Under these conditions, which are common, it is a good rule to expect the lambs or the sheep to run to the other side.

Seatbelts are required by law

The speed limit in urban areas is usually 50 km/hr. Speed limit signs are usually not posted unless it is other than 50 km/hr. The speed limit is often 60 km/hr on thruways, but in residential areas it is usually only 30 km/hr. The main rule on highways is that gravel roads have a speed limit of 80 km/hr, and paved roads 90 km/hr. Signs indicate if other speed limits apply. The penalty for speeding is hefty, plus suspension of the driver’s licence.

In Iceland, drivers and passengers are required by law to wear seatbelts, regardless of the type of vehicle or where they are seated. Investigations of fatal accidents in recent years have shown that a large majority of those who died did not have their seatbelts fastened. Wearing seatbelts is especially important because of the nature of accidents in Iceland: many of them involve vehicles driving off the road and rolling over. In such accidents, seatbelts often mean the difference between life and death. It should be noted that children must either wear seatbelts, or be in car safety seats, depending on their age and maturity.

Gravel roads, blind hills & blind curves

Necessary to bear in mind

A common place for accidents to occur on urban roads is where a paved road suddenly changes to gravel. The main reason is that drivers do not reduce speed before the changeover to gravel, and consequently lose control. Loose gravel on road shoulders has also caused a great number of accidents. When driving on gravel roads, which are often quite narrow, it is important to show caution when approaching another car coming from the opposite direction by moving as far to the right as is safely possible.

It is against the law to operate a vehicle in Iceland after having consumed alcohol or drugs, and the punishment for violating this law is rather stiff. Those driving a car with more than the legal blood alcohol limit of 0.5 per mill, have to pay a penalty and suffer suspension of their drivers’s licence. The penalties for drunk driving are severe. If driving under the influence of alcohol or drugs, you will not be entitled to compensation in case of an accident and will have to bear the total cost of the accident yourself. This can amount to several million Ikr.

What are the speed limits?

Blind hills, where lanes are not separate, can be very dangerous, and should be approached with caution. There are also many blind curves in Iceland that test a driver’s skill.

Single-lane bridges There are many single-lane bridges on the Ring Road. The actual rule is that the car closer to the bridge has the right-of-way. However, it is wise to stop and assess the situation, i.e. attempt to see what the other driver plans to do. This sign indicates that a single-lane bridge is ahead.

Livestock on the road In Iceland, you can expect livestock to be on or alongside the

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»»Iceland requires that vehicle headlights be on at all times, day and night, when driving. »»It is strictly forbidden to drive off-road. Such driving results in serious damage to sensitive vegetation, which may take nature decades to repair. »»Foreign travellers requiring information regarding road and driving conditions should visit the Public Road Administration’s website at www.vegagerdin.is »»It should be noted that the Road Traffic Directorate has produced a video for foreign drivers, which covers all the points that have been mentioned here. The video can be viewed on the website, www.drive.is

The Wonders of Westman Islands Where Nature is constantly busy playing its Symphony If you go to the Westman Islands – as you should – be sure to stay for more than one day. The fifteen islands are a natural wonder with just one of them, Heimaey, inhabited and buzzing with activity. The islanders, considered by other Icelanders as exceptionally joyous, fun-loving pranksters, make their living from the sea and always have. It is all too easy to fall in love with life and nature in the Westman Islands and get addicted to their musical disposition. Heimaey sports a perfect natural harbour walled in by tall cliffs loaded with puffins, fulmars and guillemots. You might be able to catch one of the local men hopping expertly from ledge to ledge collecting eggs, attached to a lifeline held by an anchor man at the top of the cliff.

Active volcanic area The real treat though, is a boat trip round the islands with their sheer basalt cliffs colourful caves and eroded arches rising out of the deap sea. The islands are part of a young – and still active – submarine volcanic system, the youngest of them being Surtsey which erupted from the sea floor in 1963. The most famous Westman Island eruptions, however, was on the inhabited island of Heimaey in 1973, burying almost 400 buildings. All the inhabitants were evacuated in a matter of hours – but as the eruption subsided most of them moved back „home.“ Obviously the remains of the eruption are among the island‘s most fascinating historical attractions.

Active life-style It is quite easy to get to the Westman Islands by air or sea. You will most certainly enjoy the trip, whether you want to play golf on the island‘s breathtaking 18-hole golf-course, embark on deep sea fishing, bird and whale watching, go hiking up volcanoes, over a lava field or along the shoreline – or just roam around the wonderful natural history and folk museums. The islanders‘ hospitality is legendary and you‘ll find a variety of cafés and restaurants as well as any type of accommodation you might be looking for, including camping sites, b&bs, hostels and hotels. Have fun! ■ REYKJAVÍK living 85

The Golden Circle The Golden Circle is the name given to a 190 mile (300 kilometer) circular route which emcompasses many of Iceland’s most famous landmarks. The Golden Circle can easily be completed in one day, either by renting a car or going as part of a group (tours depart every day from Reykjavik). There are also hotels and campsites en route for people who wish to take longer. In addition to sites like the greenhouses at Hveragerdi, the huge pseudo-crater Kerid, and the church at Skalholt, the center of Christianity in Iceland from the mid-11th until the 18th centuries, there are three major points of interest on the Golden Circle.

Geysir The English word geyser comes from Icelandic. Though the word refers to all geysers in general, it comes from a single geyser (in fact, the geyser) located in the South West of Iceland. Unfortunately, the Geysir has been somewhat shy in recent decades. When Geysir does perform, once or twice a year, it lives up to its name, spewing a jet of steaming water 200 feet skyward. Far more reliable, though less spectacular, is nearby Strokkur, which spouts a 60-100 foot jet about once every five minutes. The geyser area is also rich in walking paths that lead past steaming vents and colorful, mineral-rich mud formations.

Gullfoss Gullfoss, meaning “Golden Falls” with its 105-foot double-cascade into the churning Hvita glacial river is one of the highlights of the Golden Circle and Europe’s largest waterfall. On a sunlit 86 REYKJAVÍK living

day, the mist clouds surrounding the thundering falls are filled with dozens of rainbows, providing an unparalleled spectacle of color and motion. In winter, ice around the edges of the falls freezes to form magical shapes of ice and snow.

Thingvellir In 930 AD, while most of Europe was mired in feudalism and conflict, chieftains in Iceland gathered in a natural amphitheater to the north and west of Reykjavik and formed what is often referred to as the world’s first parliament, the Althing. The meeting place was called Thingvellir (“parliament plains”), and over the next 300 years representatives journeyed here once a year to elect leaders, argue cases, and settle disputes - sometimes peacefully, sometimes not.Today, Thingvellir National Park remains the ultimate symbol of Iceland’s independence and unity, a landscape inseparable from the national soul. The founders of the Althing could hardly have chosen a more appropriate place to meet. Thingvellir tells the story of Iceland’s land as much as it does its people. Nowhere in the country is there a landscape that better vocalizes the geologic history of Iceland. In Thingvellir, you can stand on a bluff and see the Mid-Atlantic ridge as it carves its way north and east into the island’s interior. ■

More Iceland for less money

Blue Lagoon Schedule

javik Sept 15-June 15 Blue Lagoon to Reykjavik 14:00* / 16:00 / 18:00 / 20:30

Blue Lagoon to Keflavik Airport 14:00 / 21:00**

Pickup at hotel in Reykjavik upon request 08:45 / 10:15 / 12:15 / 14:45 / 16:45

Blue Lagoon to Reykjavik June 15-Sept 15 14:00* / 16:00 / 18:00 / 19:30 / 21:00*

* Via Keflavik Airport

• Please book in advance. • Be ready in front of your hotel. Pickup can take up to 30 min.

** From June 15th – Sept. 15th

The South Coast - Skógafoss - Vík

Grand Golden Circle

Golden Circle Afternoon

This tour takes us along the South shore and on to the charming village of Vík. Highlights on this tour: Waterfalls Skógafoss and Seljalandsfoss and the glacier Sólheimajökull, where you can touch the ice. We drive along the volcano Eyjafjallajökull, last eruption in 2010.

Highlights visited: The farming districts in the south, Faxi waterfall and the spectacular Geysir. The waterfall Gullfoss, the national park Thingvellir, including the Rift valley and the Rock of law which was the site of the first Viking parliament.

Highlights visited: The national park Thingvellir, the waterfall Gullfoss and the spectacular Geysir.

Pick up time: Mon/Wed/Fri at 08:00 Duration: 10 hours Professional english guidance

Pick up time: Daily at 08:00 Duration: 8 hours Professional english guidance

Pick up time: Daily at 12:15 Duration: 5-6 hours Professional english guidance

Explore the unique volcanic and arctic nature of Iceland

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Tel: +354 511 2600

E-mail: bustravel@bustravel.is

bustravel.is

Designed in Iceland

Eleven hundred years of creativity The identity of Icelandic design is in the materials, the Nordic forms and patterns from the Saga age, along with modern ideas and innovation. Icelandic designers use anything from fish skin to lamb skin to fox and mink pelts, fish bone to wool, silver to glass, lava rocks and nature stones, scrap metal and porcelain as well as wood for carving. Handicraft has always thrived quite well in Iceland. When walking through the centre of Reykjavík, one cannot but wonder at the sheer number of designer and handicraft stores and galleries. And indeed the Icelanders are exceptionally creative and love their heritage. The most plausible explanations is their way of life for centuries, closed-in on their farms by darkness and forces of nature for months during harsh winters. To make it bearable they had to create something beautiful as well as making clothes, shoes, accessories, toys, furniture, pottery, tools and knickknacks. One only has to visit the National Museum in the heart of Reykjavík to see how the islanders survived their isolation. Creativity was their journey from darkness to light. After the second Wold War, the Icelanders were eager to join the Western World and for some time the heritage was generally

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frowned upon, not fit for the modern culture – but never forgotten. Even during the feminist era which made quite an impact amongst such a small community, the women would be seen knitting during their get-togethers and meetings, whether they were political, cultural or educational. The joy of creating returned with a vengeance after the financial crisis in 2008. Suddenly, all those who had used their creative talents on mere gifts for families and friends, dared to show their product to the world. In general the nation was relieved to be re-joined with its beautiful heritage; to be able to find new approaches to old ideas, use old patterns for modern pieces of clothing, accessories, pottery, toys and tools. Icelandic designers are quite eco conscious. They work wonders from recycled materials and prefer material provided by Mother Nature to express their creativity, with the Icelandic sheep wool as the favourite, by far. Their pieces are designed to last a long time and quite a number of them have already become classics. Like the Icelandic “lopapeysa” sheep wool sweaters and cardigans. ■

4 x 4 DAY TOURS YOU’LL LOVE THE THINGS WE DO – JUST TO PLEASE YOU! Thrilling all-day excursions through the spectacular nature of Iceland. A combination of our rough terrain and natural wonders.

Golden Circle and Snowmobiling. South Coast and Eyjafjallajokull by 4x4. Glacier Lagoon and the South Coast. High and Mighty ½ day tour departing twice a day. For further information and booking | +354 660 1499 | www.superjeep.is Follow us on facebook for live coverage from our trips, inside info and fun facts! REYKJAVÍK living 89

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The Raven‘s Lair Hrafn Gunnlaugsson The most popular tourist attraction in Reykjavík – by far – is a curious habitat within a walking distance from the city centre. With it‘s rustic sculpturesque appearance it catches the eye of everyone walking or driving along the city‘s breezy coastline away from the glasshouse they built for music. Naturally, most visitors assume this habitat to be a sculpture garden or a film set and they would not be entirely wrong. But, it is so much more. It is an ideology. It is a statement and it is also a family home. It is the Raven‘s Lair. Living there with his family is the Icelandic film maker Hrafn Gunnlaugsson – and Hrafn being the Icelandic name for the raven, the bird with an eye for all things strange and the beautiful, Hrafn has been building this amazing garden for years, piece by piece, ever since he bought it as a location for building his film sets.

of the Raven. As strange as it may sound, the two films were the world‘s first really successful Viking films. With no glitter or glamour, Hrafn is stubbornly true to his heritage, the great Sagas. It is the world of ancient Iceland, with its ice and fire and unpredictable weather; with family feuds and the fight for the right to land. No mean task and and ever since the Icelanders have been wondering what made him do it. But, then again, Hrafn has always thrived on challenges. The impossible is there to be made possible. At a young age Hrafn decided to become a film maker and moved to Stockholm, Sweden to study his art. Needless to say he was the only Icelander studying at the Swedish Film Academy at the time. On discussing the vikings, one of the best known Swedish film makers of his era, Hasse Alfredsen, advised Hrafn to never touch on the subject of the vikings. „He said Viking films would always turn out to be laughable. With their grown men running around in crude woollen garments and hen feathers with sheep horns on their heads and blunt spears in their hands, with Valkyrian women and their seriously heavy breasts. It had all been done time and again and always failed,“ says Hrafn.

Lured by the impossible

Valuable experience

Hrafn was one of the first epic film makers in Iceland and made his name by the Viking films The Raven flies and The Shadow

Upon hearing about this impossible task, Hrafn decided to look into the matter. Indeed, Hollywood had made one Viking film, REYKJAVÍK living 91

„He was not only willing to discuss the novel for hours, he even acted out the entire story for me during our sessions.“

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The Vikings, starring Kirk Douglas and Tony Curtis in the fifties. Quite a number of European countries had also made an attempt at producing Viking films, the most famous being the nordic film, The Red Mantle, an extremely ambitious project which proved to be disasterous. „It was so big,“ says Hrafn, „it was nothing short of Hollywood scale, directed by Gabriel Axel who later won the Oscar for his Danish film Babettes Feast and partly shot in the north of Iceland at the exceptionally beautiful location of Ásbyrgi. It sported the most famous Scandinavian actors and singers and even the Russian film star Olge Viddov as the Russians partly financed the project. It had the seventeen year old Danish singer, Gitte Henning, who was not only asked to act but also to display her bare bottom – which was seriously outdoing Hollywood.“ At the time when parts of the Red Matle were being shot in Iceland, Hrafn was fifteen years old. As fate would have it, he was hired as an errand boy on location. „The place was crowded with famous and very expensive actors, film crews, caterers and other staff, but the director only filmed when the weather was agreeable. When it rained, all work would grind to a halt and it rained for days on end. The whole crew just sat around waiting for the sun to shine –with everyone being paid by the day on location. To add to the already problematic situation, people were constatly being hired and fired. Of course, the whole budget was blown many times over. The film was so expensive it took the producer 25 years to pay it in full.“

Which story to tell? „So, the conclusion amongst nordic film makers was: No matter how famous the actors, no matter how much money you shovel into the project, Viking films are hopeless to make. Tales of the

Vikings were literature, not film material. That was a fact and everybody bought into it. So did I, and after finishing my studies I made two films in Iceland, in 1981 and 1982. Then, I met the Swedish Film maker Bo Jonsson the owner of the Swedish film company, Viking Films. He had seen my films and told me he wanted to make a Viking film and he wanted it based on Laxness‘s great satiric novel, Gerpla (The Happy Warriors) – which is too tragicomic to ever be in danger of becoming laughable. He wanted me to write the film script and direct the film and he would finance it. And he wanted Halldor Laxness himself to take part in writing the script. When I approached the great writer, whom I already knew, he flatly refused to take part in writing the script. He said he had already written the book and didn‘t know anthing about films. An no film, no matter how good or bad, would change the book he wrote. But, he told me to go ahead, by all means. He was well into his old age and becoming a bit isolated. I think he was greatly amused by this young, stupid enthusiast who kept visiting him to discuss Gerpla in order to translate it into a film script. He was not only willing to discuss the novel for hours, he even acted the entire story for me during our sessions. But, after months of discussing the book, we came to the same conclusion: It was utterly impossible to film.“ REYKJAVÍK living 93

The birth of the Raven „Then Laxness looked at me and asked: Why don‘t you write your own story, your own film script. So, Laxness is indeed responsible for my decision to do the impossible; to make a Viking film. Of course, our sessions had inspired me, made it possible for me to visiualize the world I wanted to create. He made me realize there was nothing glamorous or glittering in the Viking world. They were pirates on the run who happened upon this more or less inhabited island. For the narrative I was influenced by Kurosawa‘s Samurai films the westerns by John Ford and Sergio Leone. The visual structure is based on the works of the Icelandic painter, Gunnlaugur Scheving and the story itself is based on the Icelandic Sagas. From this Molotov coctail I created my film, The Raven flies. I had hardly any money as the fact I wasn‘t filming Gerpla made Bo Jonsson who owned the film right rather unhappy. And due to having an extremely tight budget, I used every minute of every day for filming – come rain or shine. I was lucky enough to work with actors and film crews who were just as enthusiastic about the film as I was. Just like me they were prepared to do the impossible.“ The Raven flies was a great success, praised in Scandinavia and all over the world and is still being played in cinemas around the world thirty years later. Hrafn went on to make its sequel, The Shadow of the Raven before deciding he was done with the Vikings. Years later, the Swedes lured him into taking on one more viking project, The White Viking. A project with so many heads making decisions it turned out to be a disaster in the director‘s estimate. Hrafn later on produced his own director‘s cut, Embla which is actually quite good and a worthy addition to the Raven triology.

A world of diversity Of course, Hrafn has made other films on various subjects, The Sacred Mound being his best loved film amongst Icelanders. But, for the last ten years he has been otherwise preoccupied. He has allowed himself time off from filming to pursue some of his passions and interests – not least the world he has created around his own unconventional life. A world made from the teachings of various religions, philosophy, silence, air, colors, shadows and light; a world which is a testament to the greatness of the restless bird with his vast and furious wings; a world inhabited by the old Nordic Gods, Christ and Buddha and the 94 REYKJAVÍK living

Black Virgin where table tops and mirrors are nailed to the ceiling, where crystal chandeliers ornate window sills, shelves and tables. Every painting, every photo, every framed letter is a statement. It is like stepping into a silent film explicitly exploring the human condition, criticizing our vices, questioning our motives. It is a world of compassion and respect for diversity. „I have always been a collector,“ says Hrafn, „even as a child to my mother‘s chagrin. At the age of thirteen I painted my room black and filled it with junk, sheep bones, licence plates, dried flowers, driftwood and other ornaments drifting from the sea. I found all things useless unbelievebly mysterious – and enjoyed them. Of course, this collector side of me has matured and taken shape as I get older, but I still only collect pieces and knickknacks thrown away by others. They only have value for me.“

A reflection If you want to explore this unique world you are welcome to do so – and for free. The Raven‘s Lair has indeed become Reykjavík‘s number one tourist attraction. More often than not, you will find Hrafn at home, quite prepared to discuss his world and have a leisurely chat. „I like having visitors,“ he says. „They usually enjoy my world and there is great beauty in watching other peoples joy. Everyone is welcome to visit my world, sit down on the veranda to relax and enjoy the day. You are free to roam around, to interpret my world in your own way, to your own taste, at your own leisure. No one will tell you what you see, what to think or how to react.“ You may find the Raven‘s Lair strange to begin with, but in reality it is just a reflection of the unpredictable and irregular world we live in. It is just organized and shuffled by a different thought process. But, back to the films. When Hrafn is asked if he will ever make another film, he replies: „You know, I might just do that. I have been working on a new script with the Icelandic novelist, Ólafur Gunnarsson. It is based on the old Nordic Mythology, the time is around A.D. 850 before the Scandinavia was introduced to Christianity. The Mythology was the foundation of the scattered communities and is indeed quite related to Bhuddism. I would love to make this film if I find the energy to do it. You know, making a film is much like running a marathon. And it is quite a marathon when you have to run all the way from 850 to the present day.“ ■

REYKJAVÍK living 95

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