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The flames warm our cheeks, the crackling of the fire is like a soft music, the smell of seized green onions tease the eater. We are in Kireby Bro’s garden, three and a half hours away from Copenhagen, http://fulgurances.com/en/2012/07/kirkeby-kro-danemark/[15-11-2012 14:16:47]
Kirkeby Kro, Danemark | Fulgurances.com
nearby the sea… and the horizon seems so close.
I can’t remember having experienced such a proximity with a chef’s gestures : watching him roast, tame the flames.
The enormous lobster (10 kilos!!) which was still twitching minutes before surrendered. Paul Cunningham decided to season it with curry, the indian spice which is communly used in English http://fulgurances.com/en/2012/07/kirkeby-kro-danemark/[15-11-2012 14:16:47]
Kirkeby Kro, Danemark | Fulgurances.com
gastronomy. The decision is surprising at first, but he obtains a perfect balance with the rich flesh of the beast. Salads, herbs, summer vegetables surround us in the gardens, and yet on that day, they are not the stars of the menu. May it be the melting flesh of the turbot in white butter sauce, of the monkfish flesh with black garlic flavours, the cooking times were perfect.
We remember the overwhelming appetizers : a culatello ham with sardine and rasberries, the oyster with alga butter and sea lettuce, the voluptuous poaching, the sweetness of the butter, the sea in the background. We met sensuality in the anchovy butter, the crispy white asparagus, juicy in parmesan cream and lamb ham, delicacy in the chicken skin caviar. Paul Cunningham’s cooking is like himself, free ! He doesn’t hesitate when associating scallops with rhubarb, sharp, crunchy, tender. It says it all.
http://fulgurances.com/en/2012/07/kirkeby-kro-danemark/[15-11-2012 14:16:47]
Kirkeby Kro, Danemark | Fulgurances.com
We were all served a jar of radish, to be dipped in a cream of danish cheese, cooked in hay : true delight. Just like the crisp potatoe and the battle between caviar and fish eggs : sparkling. Or the duckling served with an almost candied strawberry, and it’s crispy crepine.
http://fulgurances.com/en/2012/07/kirkeby-kro-danemark/[15-11-2012 14:16:47]
Kirkeby Kro, Danemark | Fulgurances.com
It doesn’t stop, until the end. You feel good at Kirkeby Kro’s, the word ‘restaurant’ looses, or maybe encounters, it’s true meaning. Each table is an accomplice of the enchantment, such as we felt with the honey sorbet, milk crisps and olive oil : an enlightenment, as in every dish the Chef serves.
In Denmark, at Kireby Kro’s, Cunningham seems to have built his roots.
Kirkeby Kro Henne – Danemark hennekirkebykro.dk Great thanks to Laurent Vanparys for the amazing wine and food pairing!
http://fulgurances.com/en/2012/07/kirkeby-kro-danemark/[15-11-2012 14:16:47]
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Kirkeby Kro, Danemark Posted on July 18, 2012
On the road Portraits & Interviews
It is often said that wine is better when tasted at the winemaker’s, where the producer and his beverage are directly connected. When you taste Paul Cunningham’s turbot, his monkfish or his lobster, you realise that it’s the same for a chef.
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