Cooked April 2016

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FOOD FOR FRIENDS The ultimate Sunday roast BOTTOMS UP Wine & cocktail matches MOTHER'S DAY BRUNCH Indulgent breakfast recipes COOK THE BOOK Vibrant Persian banquet IN SEASON: POMEGRANATE 8 sweet and savoury ideas TAKE THE CAKE Europe's finest desserts

APRI L 2016


entertaining essentials

FOOD FOR FRIENDS

WINE MATCHES

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AT HOME WITH PAUL WILSON

MOTHER'S PERSIAN DAY BRUNCH BANQUET

SEASONAL EUROPEAN INSPIRATION CAKES

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For more entertaining inspiration, visit Cooked.com.au. Image credits (this page): Nina Littler's warm pear salad, from Thrive on Five; photography Dan Jones  (facing page): Persian banquet from The Saffron Tales; photography Sarah Gamboni  (cover): Jose Pizzaro's duck ham & pomegranate salad, from Basque; photography Laura Edwards

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WELCOME

to the autumn issue of The Cooked Magazine, packed with inspiring ideas for entertaining at home. This month, we reveal our gorgeous new cookbook, Food For Friends, which brings together 100 sensational recipes from 40 top cooks and chefs. Try our Sunday roast menu from the book, or click here for your chance to win $1000 worth of cookbooks in our Mother's Day competition. On Sunday 8 May, give Mum the morning off by serving our indulgent Mother's Day breakfast in bed. Make it extra special with a classic peach bellini or our favourite "breakfast wine", a blushing-pink moscato. Take a culinary trip to Persia as we cook stunning Iranian recipes from new book The Saffron Tales, or travel to Europe with four fabulous cakes from Hungary, Germany, Scotland and Finland. Plus, find inspiring sweet and savoury recipes for this season's must-have ingredient, pomegranate. And don't forget, for more gourmet inspiration you'll find 23,000 tried and tested recipes on Cooked.com.au. Happy cooking, Sarah Gamboni, editor

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FOOD FOR FRIENDS Adrian Richardson

Justin North

One of life’s great pleasures is sharing food with family and friends. At Cooked, we believe that every meal can be sensational, so we’ve brought together top chefs and cooks from around the world to inspire you every day. In our brand-new cookbook, Food For Friends, you’ll find 100 handpicked recipes for stress-free entertaining, taking you from languid weekend brunches to spontaneous dinner parties that are sure to impress your guests.

Food For Friends showcases recipes from some of our favourite foodies, including Australian chefs Paul Wilson, Mark Best, Luke Nguyen and Ben O’Donoghue; fail-safe classics from Margaret Fulton, Lyndey Milan and Charmaine Solomon; plus Michelin-star-studded recipes from Alain Ducasse, Mark Hix and the godfather of pasta, Antonio Carluccio. We hope you enjoy this sneak preview of this gorgeous new book. Available in all good book stores for just $24.99, Food For Friends makes the perfect Mother’s Day gift. 4

Jane Kennedy

Daniel Wilson

Nina Littler


Roast duck with pomegranate glaze Serves 4

Most people know that sour, tangy fruits, such as orange and cherries, go brilliantly with duck’s rich, dark meat. I also like to use pomegranate, a slightly more unusual fruit, which has a distinctive sweet-sour tang and complements duck perfectly. Don’t worry about trying to get hold of fresh pomegranates. Pomegranate syrup (also called molasses) is available throughout the year from specialist food stores and Middle Eastern grocers. It’s dark and sticky and is easy to make into a glaze. Because it caramelises quickly, don’t start basting the ducks until about three-quarters of the way through the cooking time. 2 x 1.8kg ducks Salt Freshly ground black pepper 1 onion, quartered 1 orange, quartered 4 garlic cloves, sliced 1 bunch thyme 5 tbs pomegranate molasses 4 tbs olive oil 2 bunches watercress, leaves picked 4 ripe pears, sliced ½ quick pickled onions Pomegranate seeds, (optional) Preheat the oven to 200ºC. Remove the ducks’ necks (if still attached) and trim away any loose fat. Cut off the first wing joints and remove any giblets from inside the birds. Season each cavity generously with salt and pepper. Divide the onion, orange, garlic and thyme evenly between the birds, tucking them snugly inside the cavities. Drizzle 1 tablespoon of pomegranate molasses into each bird then use a long piece of butcher’s string to tie the back legs to the parson’s nose. This will seal the cavity and flavour the bird from the inside. Place the ducks on a rack inside a large roasting tin and rub them all over with olive oil. Season generously and roast in the centre of the oven for 1–1½ hours, depending on your oven. Every 15 minutes or so during roasting, remove the ducks from the oven (not forgetting to close the oven door, to maintain the cooking temperature) and tip the roasting tin on an angle, so that the fat pools in the corner. Baste the ducks all over, being careful, as the hot fat may sizzle and spit.

Three-quarters of the way through the cooking time, carefully tip off about ¼ cup of the hot duck fat and mix it with the remaining 3 tablespoons of pomegranate molasses to make a glaze. Stir well and brush onto the ducks. Repeat several times until the ducks are cooked a rich dark brown, reserving a little of the glaze for serving. Transfer the cooked ducks to a hot plate and leave them to rest for 10 minutes in a warm spot. To serve, use kitchen scissors or a cleaver to cut the birds into portions on the bone. Pile the duck pieces onto a large serving platter and top with the watercress, pears and onion. Drizzle with a little of the reserved pomegranate glaze and scatter on a few pomegranate seeds. l

Recipe: Adrian Richardson From: Meat Photographer: Dean Cambray

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Warm pear salad with blue cheese and walnuts Serves 4

Recipe: Nina Littler From: Thrive on Five Photographer: Dan Jones 2 bunches asparagus 1 tart apple, such as Granny Smith 2 pears 2 tsp sunflower oil 2 tbs salted butter 1 tsp finely chopped rosemary 80g rocket 80g watercress 100g mild blue cheese, such as Gorgonzola 2 avocado 80g walnuts, chopped DRESSING

2 tbs sunflower oil 1 red onion, finely chopped 3 celery sticks, finely chopped 4 tbs wholegrain mustard 1 lemon, juiced For the dressing, heat the oil in a pan and fry the onion and celery for 7-10 minutes until soft. Add the mustard and lemon juice and set aside. Meanwhile, cook the asparagus in gently simmering water for 2-3 minutes. Drain and pat dry. Core the apple and pear and cut into 5mm slices. Heat the 1 tsp of oil in a large frypan, add the slices and cook for 2 minutes, turning carefully halfway through. 6

Preheat the grill to a medium setting. In a separate ovenproof frypan, heat the butter until golden. Add the rosemary and asparagus. SautĂŠ for a couple of minutes before adding half the rocket and half the watercress. Mix briefly and crumble the cheese over the top. Place the frypan under the grill for about three minutes, until the cheese is melted and the asparagus glazed.

Now arrange the salad by placing the remaining rocket and watercress in a bowl. Slice the avocado and place on top, then add the lukewarm apple and pear slices. Top with the warm asparagus and cheese mixture, spoon over the dressing and finish with the chopped walnuts. Serve warm. l


Slow-roasted crushed potatoes and garlic Serves 4 1kg small roasting potatoes, washed well, such as nicola or king edward 20 garlic cloves, skinned and brown end bits removed 200ml extra virgin olive oil Preheat the oven to 175°C. Place the potatoes in a large saucepan of salted cold water. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 30 minutes, or until soft. Drain in a colander and leave to cool. Crush the potatoes with your hands into a large bowl, leaving some chunks the size of a walnut shell, and others smaller than that. Add the garlic cloves and olive oil and toss together. Season with sea salt and freshly ground black pepper and toss again. Place the potatoes in a roasting tin, spreading them evenly in one layer. Roast for 40-50 minutes, or until golden and crisp, turning every 15 minutes. Serve hot, in a large bowl. l

Recipe: Daniel Wilson From: Huxtabook Photographer: Chris Middleton

Caramelised parsnips Serves 4

4 parsnips ½ tbs vegetable oil Pepper 40g butter Salt Recipe: Justin North From: French Lessons

Peel the parsnips and trim off the base end and tip. Slice the parsnip lengthwise around its central core into 4 curved wedges. Cut each wedge in half and slice away any remaining core, which is tough and fibrous. Heat the oil in a frypan over medium heat. Add the parsnip batons and sauté for a few minutes until they start to colour. Season well, add the butter and cook it to a light brown foam. Continue to sauté the parsnips, basting frequently, until they are caramelised a deep golden brown, about 8–10 minutes. l 7


Rhubarb & strawberry crumble Serves 4

4 stalks rhubarb, trimmed and cut into small pieces 1½ tbs coconut sugar 1 orange, juiced 170g strawberries, trimmed 100g almond meal 1 tbs flaked coconut 2 tsp butter Preheat the oven to 180°C. Place the rhubarb, 2 teaspoons of the coconut sugar and orange juice in a small saucepan and bring to a gentle boil. Simmer for about 10 minutes, or until the rhubarb is soft. You may need to add a little water to make sure the rhubarb stays moist. Add the strawberries and simmer a further 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and pour the mixture into individual ramekins. Combine the almond meal, coconut flakes, butter and the remaining coconut sugar and mix with your fingers to create the ‘crumble’. Sprinkle a little mixture over each ramekin. Bake for 20–25 minutes, or until bubbling and browned on top. Serve with a little dollop of Greek yoghurt if you like! l

Recipe: Jane Kennedy From: OMG! I Can Eat That? Photographer: Mark Roper 8


FIND THE PERFECT WINE MATCH

By Sarah Gamboni

Sunday roast Linger over Sunday lunch with two top-notch wines. Roast duck with pomegranate glaze 2015 PARINGA ESTATE PENINSULA PINOT NOIR, $29 Why we love it: The juicy palate of cherries and blueberries, coupled with an underlying current of acidity, cuts through the richness of the duck and complements the sweet-tart tang of the pomegranate. Rhubarb & strawberry crumble BROWN BROTHERS PATRICIA NOBLE RIESLING, $37 Why we love it: Sweet without being cloying, this botrytis riesling has notes of citrus and honey, and a high natural acidity that promises a clean finish.

Mother’s Day brunch Make Mother’s Day extra special with a glass of something sparkling. INNOCENT BYSTANDER MOSCATO (375ml), $12.50 Why we love it: The perfect breakfast wine, this blushing-pink moscato is alive with floral aromas and the flavours of strawberry and Turkish delight. And the best part, at just 5.5% alcohol, it won’t floor you for the rest of the day.

Persian banquet For this Persian feast, look for wines that can complement the bold flavours of pomegranate, citrus and spices. 2015 PEWSEY VALE EDEN VALLEY, $24 Why we love it: Fragrant with white blossoms, limes and dried herbs, this delicate riesling would work a treat with the flatbread salad and herby falafels. 2012 YERING STATION VILLAGE SHIRAZ VIOGNIER, $24 Why we love it: Iran is the birthplace of shiraz, so for the roast chicken let’s celebrate that heritage with a perfumed shiraz viognier from the Yarra Valley. This elegant red boasts plum and spice characters, perfectly suited to the pomegranate and za’atar glaze.

European cakes

McWILLIAMS 25 YEAR OLD MUSCAT, $80 Why we love it: Rich with flavours of caramel and roasted nuts, this full-bodied fortified wine marries well with the opulent Dobos torte and the sticky Helsinki caramel cakes. 2013 DE BORTOLI NOBLE ONE BOTRYTIS SEMILLON, $33 Why we love it: The classic marmalade, citrus and honey characters of this iconic dessert wine find their ideal match in the Scottish marmalade cake or the raspberry streusel cake.

Paul Wilson’s

Michelada

"Combining beer, lime and a spicy tomato juice, my michelada is a favourite morning fiesta flavour to fire up the tastebuds and get the spirits lifted for boozy brunch." 1 tsp sea salt 1 tsp chilli powder 1 lime wedge 60ml tomato juice 30ml freshly squeezed lime juice 1 tsp worcestershire sauce Dash hot sauce Pinch ground cumin Pinch freshly ground black pepper Pinch celery salt 1 small chilled bottle of Mexican beer 1 radish, sliced, to garnish To coat the rim of the glass, combine the salt and chilli powder and sprinkle over a small plate to roughly cover. Run the lime wedge around the rim of a tall beer glass and dip the rim into the spiced salt. Combine the tomato juice, lime juice and worcestershire sauce in the glass and stir to combine. Add hot sauce, cumin, pepper and celery salt, to taste. Top up with beer and garnish with radish slices.

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MEXICAN WAVE MELBOURNE’S MASTER OF LATIN AMERICAN FARE PAUL WILSON CHATS TO US ABOUT ENTERTAINING AT HOME AND THIS IMPRESSIVE MEXICAN BRUNCH DISH.

Sweetcorn French toast with pancetta and avocado Serves 4

Recipe: Paul Wilson From: Cantina Photographer: Chris Middleton 100g thinly sliced pancetta 4 wedges iceberg lettuce or rocket leaves, to serve 1 avocado, thickly sliced Micro leaves, to serve 1 small red capsicum, thinly sliced in rings, to garnish JALAPENO & LIME CREMA

250g sour cream 100g salted ricotta, finely grated 2 green jalapenos, seeded and roughly chopped 3 limes, finely grated zest and juiced 1 garlic clove, grated Pinch ground cumin 1 finger lime 1 large handful oregano leaves, finely chopped Sea salt, to taste SALSA MEXICANA

1 red onion, finely diced 6 cherry tomatoes, quartered 150g jicama, finely diced 2 jalapenos, seeded and thinly sliced 1 habanero chilli, seeded and thinly sliced 4 large handfuls coriander leaves, roughly chopped 150ml lime juice Sea salt, to taste SWEETCORN LOAF

125g butter 300g frozen or fresh corn kernels, plus extra cooked shards for garnish (optional) 375g tin condensed milk 60g sour cream 5 large organic eggs 50g masa harina (Mexican flour) 1½ tsp baking powder Pinch sea salt Oil, for spraying 10


Preheat the oven to 150°C and lightly grease and line a loaf (bar) tin with baking paper.

Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.

For the sweetcorn loaf, melt the butter in a large frypan over low heat. Add the corn, cover and cook for 5 minutes, or until softened.

For the salsa, combine the onion, tomato, jicama, jalapeno, habanero and coriander in a bowl. Just before serving, add the lime dressing or juice and toss to combine. Season with salt.

Add the condensed milk and sour cream and bring to the boil. Reduce heat and simmer, stirring constantly, for 5 minutes. Transfer to a food processor and blend to make a smooth sauce. Gradually add eggs, flour and baking powder, processing on low speed to combine. Season with salt. Pour the batter into the prepared tin and bake for about 30–40 minutes, until golden brown and a skewer comes out clean when tested. Leave in the tin for 10 minutes to cool slightly. Invert the sweetcorn loaf onto a wire rack to cool completely. Wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 4 hours, or preferably overnight. To make the crema, combine the sour cream, salted ricotta, jalapeño, lime zest and juice, garlic and cumin in a bowl, and stir to make a smooth cream. Stir in the oregano and finger lime flesh. Season with salt.

At home with

PAUL WILSON

Preheat an overhead grill to high. Slice the cornbread into 8 slices, 2-3 cm thick. Arrange the pancetta slices on a baking tray and grill until crisp. Drain off any excess fat and keep warm. Preheat a non-stick frypan over medium heat. Spray the pan with cooking oil and cook the cornbread slices for 2 minutes on each side or until golden brown. To serve, arrange 2 pieces of cornbread onto each plate, top with an iceberg wedge and some pancetta and avocado slices. Spoon on some salsa Mexicana and a dollop of the crema and garnish with the micro leaves, capsicum and shards of corn, if using. l

What do you love most about entertaining at home? I love involving my guests in the preparation of certain elements so I am always exposing them to new ingredients, passing on techniques and the odd cheffy trick. Do you have a go-to dish or menu when friends come to dinner? I love cooking a whole locally caught fish, surrounded by interesting vegetables and herbs that evoke the flavours and the culinary accent of the country I am celebrating. And then I make an interesting condiment and salad. I’m loving vegetables more than meat these days. When you travel to other continents you discover so many new fruits, vegetables, pulses, legumes, grains and herbs, and they always inspire me. Do you have any tips for preparing your sweetcorn French toast with pancetta and avocado for guests? The corn cake can be made in advance and freezes really well, as a whole loaf or in individually wrapped slices. The Mexicans adore corn so much, they eat this corn cake all day every day, for breakfast, lunch, dinner and dessert. It’s great as a pan perdu (French toast), drizzled with salted caramel and served with vanilla ice cream.

Win $10 00 w

WIN A YEAR'S WORTH OF COOKBOOKS orth cookbooof ks

To celebrate Mother's Day, we're giving you the chance to win 24 gorgeous cookbooks. Enter here by telling us in 25 words or less, which dish reminds you of your mum, and why.

When you’re hosting a meal at home, what inspires your menu? Firstly, I’m inspired by ingredients and climate, then how many guests I’m catering for. I always visit a market and select what’s pristine and in season. I also prefer to feast with everything in the centre of the table so choose a hero protein, such as seafood, a whole chook, piece of dry-aged beef, interesting cut of lamb or pork. Try a new breed or brand of meat and expose your guests to a new experience. Then I choose the flavour based on the season. So if it’s autumn, I might go for an Asian theme because young ginger is in season. In winter, it’s robust cookery, so European cuisines tend to influence. And in summer I go for Latin and Mediterranean flavours. When you visit someone else’s house for a meal, what’s the one thing you always bring? I always like to take a unique bottle of wine or a cocktail kit. Recently, as there was an abundance of mangoes I took all the ingredients to make mango margaritas with arbol chilli salt – the recipe will be in my new book, Taqueria. It was such a hit and an easy way to celebrate a new recipe with your friends. l

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MOTHER’S DAY BRUNCH

Treat your mum to an indulgent brunch this Mother’s Day, with smoked salmon blinis, a virtuous chia pudding, easy French toast, or a batch of fresh-from-the-oven madeleines. By: Molly Brown From: Grains Photographer: Deidre Rooney

Buckwheat blini with yoghurt and smoked salmon Makes 24

225g buckwheat or wholemeal flour 225g plain flour 1½ tsp salt 25g dried active yeast 2 tsp caster sugar 725ml warm milk 3 eggs 70g butter, melted and cooled 125g lard, for frying Greek-style yoghurt, to serve Smoked salmon slices Fresh dill sprigs, to serve Black pepper, freshly ground Lemon wedges, to serve Sift the flours into a bowl and add in the bran left behind in the sieve. Mix in the salt. Put the yeast into a cup with 1 teaspoon of the sugar and add about 35ml of the warm milk. Stir and set aside somewhere warm for 15 minutes, by which time the yeast should have frothed. Separate one of the eggs and reserve the egg white. Mix together the yolk and the remaining 2 whole eggs. Make a hollow in the centre of the flour and add the mixed eggs followed by the yeasty milk, the remaining milk and 20g of the melted butter. Mix to a smooth batter by gradually whisking the dry ingredients into the wet ones. Cover with a clean tea towel and set aside somewhere warm for 1 hour. Whisk the reserved egg white until stiff but not dry, then fold into the batter. Melt a little of the lard in a non-stick frypan over medium heat. When the lard is hot, spoon in enough batter to make a blinis the size of a saucer. When little bubbles form on the top of the blinis carefully turn it over and cook the other side. Both sides should be light brown and the blinis should be cooked through to the middle. Repeat until all the batter has been used. Place them in a 150°C oven as you cook them until ready to serve, separating each with baking paper. Serve 2 or 3 blini per person. Brush or drizzle them with the remaining melted butter and top with a dollop of Greek-style yoghurt, smoked salmon slices and sprigs of dill. Grind black pepper over the top and offer wedges of lemon alongside. l

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Chia pudding with stone fruit Serves 4-6

120g amaranth seeds or quinoa flakes, rinsed 80g chia seeds 1 litre low-fat milk or water 1 tsp vanilla extract 1 tsp ground cinnamon Agave syrup or raw honey, to taste 255g fresh blueberries 2 nectarines or peaches, stoned and thickly sliced 250ml light coconut milk 90g flaked almonds or pistachio nuts, lightly toasted Combine the amaranth and chia seeds with the milk, vanilla and cinnamon in a saucepan. Bring to the boil over medium–low heat, stirring occasionally. Reduce the heat to low and simmer, stirring constantly, for 15–20 minutes, until thick. Sweeten with honey or agave. Divide the porridge among serving bowls, scatter with the fruit and drizzle with the coconut milk. Scatter over the nuts. l

Recipe: Paul Wilson From: Cantina Photographer: Chris Middleton 13


French toast with raspberry & apple puree Serves 2

3 eggs, lightly beaten 250ml milk ½ tsp ground cinnamon 1 tbs maple syrup, plus extra to serve 8 slices multigrain or wholemeal bread 2 tsp light olive oil Yoghurt (optional), to serve RASPBERRY & APPLE PUREE

3 large red or pink apples, peeled, cored and chopped 155g fresh or frozen raspberries To make the raspberry apple puree, steam the apple for 10 minutes, or until tender. Transfer to a food processor, add the raspberries and process to a smooth puree. Refrigerate until needed. To make the French toast, stir together the egg, milk, cinnamon and maple syrup in a shallow bowl. Soak each slice of bread in the egg mixture for 1–2 minutes, or until soaked through. Heat the oil in a large frypan over medium heat. Working in batches, cook the bread for 2–3 minutes on each side, or until golden and cooked through. Transfer to a plate and keep warm. Repeat with the remaining bread until all cooked. Serve the slices of French toast topped with a spoonful of fruit puree and a little yoghurt and a drizzle of maple syrup, if desired. l

Recipe: Louise Fulton Keats From: Something For Everyone Photographer: Ben Dearnley 14

SAY CHEERS

For an ultra-indulgent Mother's Day brunch, why not pour Mum a classic peach bellini. Simply mix one part peach puree with three parts chilled sparkling wine.


Madeleines Makes 24

2 large eggs 95g caster sugar 1 tsp vanilla extract ½ tsp sea salt 110g plain flour 1 level tsp baking powder 90g melted butter Icing sugar, to dust Use a hand-held blender to whisk the eggs, sugar, vanilla extract and salt together in a large mixing bowl for about 10 minutes until the mixture is very light in colour and has doubled in size. Sift the flour and baking powder into the egg mixture, and gently fold to combine. Carefully pour in the melted butter and fold it into the mix. Cover the bowl with a tea towel and set aside for 3 hours. Preheat the oven to 220°C. Heat two 12-hole madeleine trays in the oven for 5 minutes. Remove the trays from the oven and immediately fill them three quarters full with the madeleine batter. Bake for 5 minutes, then reduce the temperature of the oven to 190°C and bake for another 5 minutes until the cakes are domed and golden in colour. Remove from the tins and leave to cool on a wire rack. Dust with icing sugar, to serve. l

Recipe: Jorge Fernandez and Rick Wells From: Rustic

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COOK THE BOOK:

THE SAFFRON TALES This month, the Cooked team put Yasmin Khan's beautiful new book, The Saffron Tales, through its paces, cooking a colourful Persian banquet and photographing the results. The verdict? This is one recipe collection you'll want to earmark.

Recipes: Yasmin Khan

Fragrant mixed herb and flatbread salad Serves 4

I first sampled this fragrant salad at a small party at the home of Azadeh Sadeghzadeh, a vivacious young fashion designer from Tehran, and it is now one of my staple dishes when entertaining. I simply place a big bowl of it in the middle of the table and then let my guests help themselves to bowlfuls as we have a few rounds of drinks. It goes down a treat every time. The salad works best with strips of Persian flatbread, but if you don’t have time to make your own, and can’t find any in the shops, then plain tortillas work just as well. The addition of golpar, with its citrussy aroma, really lifts this dish, accentuating the sweetness of the pomegranates and adding a wonderful depth of flavour, so try and track some down if you can. 16

100g Persian flatbread (or toasted tortillas or pitta bread) 50g walnuts, roughly chopped 100g feta, crumbled ½ cup mint, roughly chopped ½ cup bunch basil, roughly chopped ½ cup bunch tarragon, roughly chopped 3 tbs pomegranate seeds, to garnish DRESSING

2 tbs balsamic vinegar 3 tbs extra virgin olive oil ¼ tsp golpar (angelica) ½ tsp sea salt ½ tsp black pepper

Using a pair of scissors, cut the flatbread into small jagged pieces and place them in a large bowl. Toast the walnuts in a small pan over a medium heat for 2 minutes. Add them to the bowl, along with the crumbled cheese and chopped herbs. To make the dressing, whisk the balsamic vinegar, olive oil and golpar (if you are using it) with the salt and pepper. Drizzle the dressing over the salad and then get your hands in there, giving the whole thing a good stir to evenly distribute it. Leave the salad for 10 minutes for the flavours to soak into the bread, then taste and adjust the seasoning. Garnish with a generous sprinkling of pomegranate seeds just before serving. l


Herby baked falafels with fennel & watercress salad Serves 4

Falafels are a street-food staple in Iran, particularly around the Persian Gulf, where the local cuisine borrows heavily from the country’s Arab neighbours. Making your own is incredibly simple, especially if you use tinned chickpeas. I’ve packed this recipe with heaps of fresh herbs and punchy garlic, and the falafels are baked rather than deep-fried, making them a healthy version of the classic Middle Eastern snack. Just make sure you cook the falafels in a very hot oven so they get nice and crispy on the outside and fluffy within. Serve with a crisp fennel and watercress salad, tahini sauce, and perhaps some warm flatbreads and pickles.

Blitz the herbs, garlic and spring onion in a food processor until very finely chopped. Add the chickpeas and pulse until evenly combined and fairly smooth. Spoon the mixture into a large bowl. Dry fry the cumin and coriander seeds in a small pan over a low heat for a minute or so, then grind with a pestle and mortar or a spice grinder. Add the cumin, coriander seeds, lemon zest, lemon juice, baking powder, cornflour, 2 tablespoons of olive oil, the salt and pepper to the bowl with the chickpea mixture, and use your hands to bring everything together. Cover the bowl with cling film and chill for at least 30 minutes. Pre-heat the oven to 230°C. Line a large baking tray with baking parchment and lightly grease it with some light olive oil.

Sprinkle the sesame seeds onto a large plate and place 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a small bowl. Roll the falafel mixture into about 16 equal-sized balls. Use your fingers to lightly coat each ball in some oil then sprinkle an even coating of the sesame seeds on each falafel. Place on the baking tray and cook for 30 minutes or so, until the balls are firm and crunchy. Using a spatula, turn half way through, to ensure an even bake. Meanwhile, make your tahini sauce by whisking all the ingredients together in a small bowl. For the salad, put the fennel and watercress in a bowl, then drizzle over the olive oil, lemon juice, sumac, salt and pepper, and toss well. Serve the falafels immediately, with the sauce and salad alongside. l

½ cup parsley ½ cup coriander 4 garlic cloves, crushed 4 spring onions, trimmed and roughly chopped 2 x 400g tins of chickpeas, rinsed and drained ½ tsp cumin seeds ½ tsp coriander seeds ½ unwaxed lemon, zested 2 tbs lemon juice 1 tsp baking powder 2 tbs cornflour Olive oil 1 tsp sea salt ¼ tsp black pepper 25g sesame seeds TAHINI SAUCE

75ml tahini 50ml water 2 tbs lemon juice ½ tsp sea salt FENNEL & WATERCRESS SALAD

½ fennel bulb, sliced very finely lengthways 80g watercress 2 tbs extra-virgin olive oil 2 tbs lemon juice 1 tsp sumac ½ tsp sea salt ¼ tsp black pepper

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Roast chicken with pomegranate and za’atar glaze Serves 4

The dark, sticky juices of my favourite ruby fruit are used here to glaze a humble roast chicken, giving it an opulent wine-red hue and imparting the obligatory Persian sweet and tangy flavour. A good sprinkling of za’atar – a zesty Middle Eastern spice blend – completes the transformation. 1 medium chicken 25g butter 2 tbs extra-virgin olive oil 1½ tbs pomegranate molasses 3 tbs za’atar 1 garlic bulb ½ lemon About 30 minutes before you start cooking, take the chicken and butter out of the fridge to bring them to room temperature. Preheat your oven to 190°C. 18

Place the chicken in a large roasting tin and massage the butter, olive oil and pomegranate molasses into its skin. Season generously with salt and pepper, being sure to get plenty inside the chicken’s cavity. Lift the chicken up and sprinkle 1 tablespoon of the za’atar over the skin on its bottom side. Place it down again and sprinkle the remaining 2 tablespoons of za’atar over the skin on top, evenly distributing it. Peel two cloves of garlic and smash them with the flat blade of a large knife. Place these inside the chicken, along with the lemon. Scatter the remaining unpeeled garlic cloves around the roasting tin. Place the chicken in the oven and cook for around 1 hour 10 minutes. As oven temperatures can vary, you might want to turn the chicken around halfway through so that it cooks evenly. To check it is done, use the tip of a knife to make a small incision into the thickest part of the meat – if its juices run clear, it is ready. Allow the chicken to rest for 10 minutes before serving. l


Poached quince with mascarpone and pistachios

Place the water, sugar, cloves, cinnamon and rose water in a saucepan and bring to the boil. Add the quinces and simmer for about 30 minutes until they are quite soft.

Serves 4

800ml water 135g brown sugar 5 cloves, lightly crushed ¼ tsp ground cinnamon 1 tbs rose water 2 large quinces, peeled and halved with the core removed TOPPINGS

15g pistachios, roughly chopped 4 tbs mascarpone or creme fraiche 1 tsp icing sugar 1 tsp freshly squeezed lemon juice

Preheat the oven to 180°C. Scoop the quinces out of the pan and place them in an ovenproof dish. Return the pan to the hob and cook the sauce for a further 5 minutes over high heat to reduce. Pour half of the reduced sauce over the quinces, then place them in the oven and cook for about 20 minutes, or until they are very soft to the touch. Meanwhile, prepare the toppings. Lightly toast the chopped pistachios by dry-frying them in a small pan for a few minutes. In a small bowl, mix the mascarpone or creme fraiche with the icing sugar and lemon juice. Arrange the quinces on a serving plate and spoon over a few tablespoons of the poaching sauce, a dollop of cream and a sprinkling of toasted nuts. l

Persian love cake Serves 6-8

This enchanting cake reminds me of a Persian garden in the late spring, adorned with the floral scent of rose water and citrus, and decorated with bright green pistachios. If it is not devoured in one sitting, the oil in the ground almond base ensures a moist, densely textured cake that will keep well for a couple of days, covered in foil. A sprinkling of dried rose petals looks ever so pretty for special occasions, but don’t worry if you can’t get hold of any. It’s still a cake to win hearts. 200g unsalted butter Pre-heat the oven to 160°C. Grease a 150g caster sugar 22cm cake tin (one with a removable 4 eggs base) and line it with baking parchment. 12 cardamom pods In a large mixing bowl, cream the 100g plain flour, sifted butter and sugar together. When the 275g ground almonds mixture is thoroughly combined, beat 1 unwaxed lemon, zested and juiced in the eggs. 1 tbs rose water Place the cardamom pods in a mortar 1 tsp baking powder and work with a pestle to get the seeds a generous pinch fine sea salt out of the pods. Discard the pods and grind the seeds to a fine powder. Add DRIZZLE TOPPING them to the cake mixture, along with 2 tbs caster sugar the flour, ground almonds, lemon zest ½ lemon, juiced and juice, rose water, baking powder 2 tsp rose water and salt. Mix well. ICING

150g icing sugar ¾ lemon, juiced 2 tsp cold water TO DECORATE

2 tsp sliced pistachios 2 tsp dried rose petals

Pour the mixture into the cake tin and bake in the oven for 45 minutes. To check if it is ready, stick a fork in the middle of the cake – it should come out dry.

Towards the end of the cooking time, make your drizzle topping. Place the caster sugar, lemon juice and rose water in a small pan over a low heat and heat until the sugar melts. Remove the cake from the oven and place it on a wire rack. Poke holes all over the top of the warm cake and drizzle over the syrup. When the cake is completely cool, make the icing by combining the icing sugar, lemon juice and a few teaspoons of water until you have a smooth, thick icing. Spoon the icing over the cake and finish with a sprinkling of sliced pistachios and, if you like, rose petals. l

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April Carter’s pomegranate and vanilla vodka

From: Treats  Photography: Danielle Wood April’s recipe makes enough pomegranate vodka for two small bottles. Find attractive, swing-top bottles online, and personalise them with a favourite cocktail suggestion on a hand-written label.

PRO TIP

To release the seeds, cut your pomegranate in half,then hold each half over a bowl and tap the pomegranate with the back of a spoon or a rolling pin.

POMEGRANATES A symbol of fertility, this ruby-hued fruit is at its best from March to July. Popular in Middle Eastern, Indian and Chinese cuisines, pomegranates have been used for their health benefits for centuries. This super-charged superfood is packed with vitamins C and K, antioxidants, and acids that may help prevent high blood pressure and heart disease. But we love them best for their unique sweet-tart flavour. Use the juicy, jewel-like arils, or seeds, to add colour and tang to a range of savoury dishes and desserts. Here are eight of our favourites from Cooked.com.au 20

Jose Pizzaro’s homecured duck ham with pomegranate salad From: Basque  Photography: Laura Edwards Jose’s tip: You will need to plan a little here as it will take several days for the duck to cure, but you’ll feel very proud of yourself once you’ve done it. It took me a long time to perfect this recipe, but I’m really happy that I persevered – the end result is delicious, and it allows you to use the last of the watercress alongside the first pomegranates of the season.


Paul Wilson’s lamb belly ribs with pomegranate From: Cantina Photography: Chris Middleton

Paul’s tips: Pomegranate mojo is a signature sauce of Latin cooking, said to be the condiment of the Portuguese explorers who left their garlic scent throughout their travels. The sourness that interplays with the garlic is the key and I choose to add pomegranate for its striking and full zesty zing. This sauce can be used to dress raw sashimi-grade fish or to invigorate barbecued meats, such as these lamb belly ribs.

Matt Wilkinson's pomegranate fattoush

Julie Fisher’s pomegranate sorbet

From: Mr Wilkinson’s Simply Dressed Salads Photography: Jacqui Melville

From: Ruby Violet’s Ice Cream Dream Photography: Danielle Wood

Matt’s tip: My love affair with Arabic flavours started when I moved to Melbourne. There is something magical about the flavours, texture, ease and yet complexity to the dishes – none more so than a fattoush, seasonally changing to whatever is around.

Julie’s tip: Ensure that the pomegranates are fully ripened and the skin has thinned and dried from a thick pithy coat. The challenge of using fresh fruit in sorbets is maintaining consistency, particularly with pomegranates.

Andy Harris' swordfish with pomegranate salad From: Eat Istanbul Photography: David Loftus Inspired by the cuisine of Istanbul, Andy's zesty pomegranate, onion and pistachio salad works a treat with the clean flavours of the swordfish.

Rebecca Seal's Greek yoghurt panna cotta From: The Islands of Greece Photography: Steven Joyce

Luke Nguyen’s Vietnamese coffee tarts with fresh pomegranate

Rebecca’s tip: Drizzled with bright red syrup and pomegranate seeds, this dessert is easy to make but impressive to serve. The syrup is very sweet, so don’t add too much sugar to the panna cotta.

From: The Food of Vietnam Photography: Danielle Wood Luke scatters pomegranate seeds over coffee tarts for a vibrant pop of colour and sweetness. 21


European dreaming

Indulge your sweet tooth and your sense of wanderlust with these wicked cake recipes from Europe, just a taste of the wonders you’ll find in Claire Clark’s 80 Cakes Around the World.

Hungarian Dobos torte Makes one cake

6 large eggs, separated 150g icing sugar, sifted 1 tsp vanilla extract 130g plain flour, sifted 1 orange, grated zest CHOCOLATE BUTTERCREAM

120g dark chocolate, finely chopped 5 egg yolks 150g caster sugar 3 tbs water 225g unsalted butter, cut into 2.5cm cubes A few drops orange oil A pinch salt TO DECORATE

15 hazelnuts, toasted and chopped 150g caster sugar 3 tbs water 22

Preheat the oven to 180°C. Grease a 40cm x 28cm baking tray and line it with baking parchment. Using an electric mixer whisk the egg yolks with half the icing sugar and the vanilla until thick and pale. In a separate bowl, whisk the egg whites with the remaining icing sugar until they form stiff peaks. Using a large metal spoon, gently fold a third of the meringue into the egg yolk mixture. Now fold in a third of the flour. Repeat the process until all the egg whites and flour have been incorporated, taking care not to over mix and lose volume. Gently fold in the orange zest. Transfer the batter to the baking tray and level the surface with a palette knife. Bake for 5-7 minutes; the cake should have barely any colour and should feel dry to the touch but not firm and crisp. It is so thin that it will keep cooking in the residual heat of the baking tray, so you have to act quickly

and transfer it to a cool baking tray or a cooling rack. Run a knife around the edges to loosen it first. To make the buttercream, melt the chocolate in a microwave or in a bowl set over a pan of lightly simmering water, making sure the water does not touch the base of the bowl. Using a freestanding electric mixer, whisk the egg yolks on low speed. Put the sugar and water into a heavy-based pan and mix well to dissolve the sugar. Wash down the sides of the pan with a pastry brush dipped in cold water to remove any sugar crystals. Bring to the boil over a high heat and cook without stirring until it reaches 118°C (soft-ball stage) on a sugar thermometer. Pour it on to the egg yolks in a slow trickle, mixing on a low speed. Increase the speed to medium and continue to whisk until the mixture is pale and fluffy and barely warm. Add the butter a little at a time, whisking well after each addition. Remove from the mixer and fold in the melted chocolate, orange oil and salt. Cut the cake into 6 equal strips. Set the first piece on a cake card and spread with a layer of the buttercream. It should be the same thickness as the sponge sheet. Place another piece of sponge on top, spread with buttercream, and repeat until a11 the sponge has been used. Cover the top and sides of the cake with the remaining buttercream, giving them a thicker layer. Press the chopped toasted hazelnuts on to the sides of the cake to cover. Put the cake into the fridge to firm up while you prepare the decoration. Line a baking sheet with a silicone mat. Put the sugar and water into a heavy-based pan and mix well. Wash down the sides of the pan with a pastry brush dipped in cold water to remove any sugar crystals. Bring to the boil over a high heat and cook, without stirring, until it turns into a golden caramel. Spoon immediately on to the baking mat in irregular shapes and leave to cool and harden. Remove the cake from the fridge and decorate with the caramel shapes. l

By: Claire Clark From: 80 Cakes Around the World Photographer: Jean Cazals


German streuselkuchen Makes a 25cm cake

225g plain flour 1 tsp ground mixed spice 1 tsp ground ginger 1 tsp ground cinnamon 75g caster sugar 150g unsalted butter, at room temperature 1 tsp vanilla extract CREAM CHEESE FILLING

125g cream cheese 115g caster sugar 1 tsp vanilla extract 1 egg yolk

RASPBERRY FILLING

250g good-quality raspberry jam A few drops lemon juice 100g raspberries STREUSEL TOPPING

100g light soft brown sugar 100g ground almonds 100g unsalted butter, diced 60g plain flour 1 tbs ground cinnamon 100g pecan nuts, chopped Preheat the oven to 170째C. Grease a 25cm square shallow cake tin and line the base with baking parchment. Sift the flour and spices into the bowl of a freestanding electric mixer. Add the sugar, butter and vanilla and, using the paddle attachment, mix on a low speed until everything comes together to form a firm dough. Press into the base of the tin in an even layer. Bake for about 20 minutes, until light brown, then remove from the oven and leave to cool.

This cake is enjoyed in a variety of guises all around the world, but always includes a crumble topping. Traditionally it would have been a yeasted cake, made in a shallow tray so that it was no more than about 2.5cm thick. In modern versions the yeast cake has become more biscuit like and may include seasonal fruit. Soft cheese is added to many German cakes, and gives this particular recipe an extra depth of flavour. I have used raspberries here but it also works well with plums.

To make the cream cheese filling, put the cheese, sugar and vanilla in a bowl and beat with a wooden spoon to combine. Add the egg yolk and mix well. Spread the filling over the cake in the tin. Combine all the ingredients for the raspberry filling and spoon on top of the cheese filling. For the streusel topping, put all the ingredients except the nuts in a bowl and rub them together with your fingertips until they resemble chunky pieces of crumble. Stir in the nuts, then sprinkle the streusel over the cake. Return to the oven and bake for 40-45 minutes, until the topping is lightly browned. Leave to cool in the tin. Cut into oblongs or squares to serve. l 23


Scottish marmalade cake Makes a small loaf

250g self-raising flour A pinch salt 125 unsalted butter, diced 125g caster sugar 1 large orange, grated zest 2 large eggs, lightly beaten 2 tbs orange marmalade 2 tbs milk A few drops vanilla extract ORANGE SYRUP

2 oranges, juiced and grated zest 4 tbs icing sugar TO DECORATE

100g caster sugar 75ml water 1-2 large blood oranges or navel oranges, peeled and thickly sliced 4 tbs thick-cut orange marmalade 24

Preheat the oven to 170°C. Grease a 450g loaf tin and line the base and sides with a piece of baking parchment. Sift the flour and salt into a bowl and rub in the butter until the mixture looks like fine breadcrumbs. Stir in the sugar and orange zest, then gradually add the eggs, marmalade, milk and vanilla, whisking well to achieve the consistency of a thick batter. Pour into the prepared cake tin and bake for 40 minutes, until the top springs back when pressed gently with your finger and a skewer inserted in the centre comes out clean. Meanwhile, put all the ingredients for the syrup in a pan, bring to the boil and simmer for 3-4 minutes. When the cake is done, pierce the top with a skewer and pour the syrup over it. Leave to cool in the tin. To caramelise the oranges for decoration, put the sugar in a heavy-based frying pan, place over a high heat and stir until it turns into a light caramel. Carefully add the water, taking care it doesn›t spit out of the pan, and stir over

a medium heat until the caramel becomes liquid. Add the orange slices and cook for 2-3 minutes, until they take on the colour and flavour of the caramel, turning them over once. Remove from the pan and leave to cool on a plate. Mix any remaining caramel with the marmalade. Place in a small pan and bring to the boil, adding a splash of water if you didn›t have any excess caramel, so it is runny enough to pour over the cake. Arrange the caramelised orange slices on top of the cake and pour over the hot marmalade. l

I like to decorate my marmalade cake with an assortment of oranges. If blood oranges are in season, they look attractive; otherwise navel oranges work just as well, as they slice neatly and don't contain pips. You can also use kumquats.


Helsinki caramel cakes Makes 16

165g self-raising flour ½ tsp salt 215g unsalted butter, at room temperature 170g caster sugar 2eggs 1 tsp vanilla extract 125g milk FILLING

300ml double cream 1 tsp vanilla extract 25g icing sugar CARAMEL ICING

85g unsalted butter 440ml evaporated milk 390g caster sugar 1 tsp vanilla extract ½ tsp bicarbonate of soda

TAKE CARE

Making the icing is a slightly tricky procedure involving hot caramel. Please take extra cake to avoid burning yourself. The sugar gets very hot and needs quite a bit of stirring to crystallise it.

TO DECORATE

50g flaked almonds, toasted 50g hazelnuts, toasted and roughly chopped 2 tsp sea salt Preheat the oven to 170°C. Grease and flour 16 holes of two 12-hole bun tins. Sift the flour and salt together. Put the butter and sugar in a bowl and cream with an electric mixer on medium-high speed for about 5 minutes, until pale and fluffy. Lightly beat the eggs with the vanilla, then add to the mixture a little at a time, beating well after each addition. Using a large metal spoon, fold in a third of the flour, followed by a third of the milk; repeat until all the ingredients are incorporated. Pipe or spoon the batter into the prepared bun tins, filling them about half full. Bake for 1820 minutes, until the cakes are golden brown and spring back when pressed lightly with your finger. Let them cool in the tins for 5 minutes, then invert on to wire racks and leave to cool completely. Put all the ingredients for the filling into a bowl and whisk until they form medium peaks. Transfer to a piping bag fitted with a plain 1cm nozzle, pipe a layer over the base of 8 of the cakes and sandwich together with the other 8. Put the cakes on a wire rack ready for covering with the caramel icing. Put the butter and evaporated milk in a small pan and warm gently over a medium hear. Remove from the heat and cover to keep warm. Place a third of the sugar in a large, heavy-based pan and stir over a medium to high heat with a wooden spoon until it starts to melt and caramelise. It should be a golden brown colour. Repeat twice with the remaining sugar. Slowly pour the warm milk mixture on

to the caramel, taking care as the caramel will spit and bubble. Bring back to the boil, stirring gently. Attach a sugar thermometer to the side of the pan and cook, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, until the thermometer reads 111°C. Remove from the heat and immediately stir in the vanilla and bicarbonate of soda; the mixture will bubble up. Once it has settled, use a handheld electric mixer on a low-medium speed to beat it until it has a coating consistency; this will take about a minute. Working quickly, pour the caramel sauce over the cakes. Sprinkle them with the almonds, hazelnuts and sea salt. Let the caramel set before handling them. l

Karl Fazer Café in Helsinki is the place to go for cake. Established in 1891, it has a devoted following. The cakes are gloriously displayed in cabinets and on stands, tempting all those who pass by. Its version of this caramel cake is a must if you are visiting Helsinki.

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