Cooked March 2016

+

trending: korean This season's hottest cuisine BREAKING BREAD With Mark Best Italian lunch From the Amalfi Coast luke nguyen's French accent High-tech sweets Macarons, truffles and nougat

March 2016

entertaining essentials Welcome to the March issue of The Cooked Magazine, packed with endless inspiration for entertaining at home.

From long, languid lunches in the sun to impressive dinner parties menus, we've got the recipes and tips you need to help you host like a pro.

Acclaimed chef Mark Best reveals the secret to crafting sourdough and cultured butter from scratch. Giancarlo and Kate Caldesi channel the Amalfi Coast in their summery Italian lunch. Luke Nguyen shares a lavish French dinner party menu, complete with wine matches, and four of our favourite foodies celebrate this season's hottest cuisine, Korean.

For a sweet send-off, try Yasmin Othman's high-tech recipes for macarons, nougats and chocolates, and read Casey Warrener's advice on setting the perfect table.

Here's to another month of fabulous food.

Happy cooking, Sarah Gamboni, editor

TABLE TOPS

breaking bread

on trend: korean

italian lunch

french dinner

high-tech desserts

nail the basics

page 4

page 6

page 8

page 12

page 18

page 22

page 26

For more entertaining inspiration, visit Cooked.com.au.

Image credits (this page): Luke Nguyen's Lyonnaise salad, from France; photography Alan Benson and Suzanna Boyd (cover): Giancarlo and Kate Caldesi's caprese salad, from The Amalfi Coast; photography Helen Cathcart

2

3

what’s cooking Anna New York Ardana Napkin Rings, $277, from Amara

Kate Spade New York Larabee Dot Tumbler Set, $129, from Kate Spade Home

TABLE TOPS all the table decorating inspiration you need

Retro Stemware Tumbler set, $86.95, from Temple & Webster

Collectors Edition Dinnerware in Blue Floral, $12 to $16, from West Elm

Embroidered Dot Napkins, $9.95 to $34, from West Elm

Oscar de la Renta Oak Leaf Napkin Ring, $257, from Amara Sheridan Oppel Table Napkin set, $59.95, from Sheridan 4

what’s cooking

Fine Bone China Plates x Louise Bourgeois, $60, from Third Drawer Down New York 24-piece Cutlery Set Rose Gold, $199.95, from David Jones Sheridan Tablecloth Brodwater, $169.95, from David Jones

Metallic Napkins Set of 4, $19.95, from West Elm

Siirtolapuutarha Tablecloth, $119, from Marimekko Folk Pad Printed Bowls, $12, each from West Elm

5

Breaking bread

There’s nothing more satisfying than a slab of freshly baked bread smeared with salty butter.

Here, masterful chef Mark Best reveals the secret to making perfect sourdough and creamy, cultured butter from scratch.

S Makes 2 loaves

Bread is an intrinsic part of the Western table and we never considered anything but making our own. Ours is not served immediately to satiate the hungry pilgrim but is celebrated in its own right by accompanying an appropriate dish.

Sourdough starter Our sourdough starter is an adaptation of a French ‘Poolish’ (or Polish) fermented starter.

The starter, or ‘mother’ as it is often called, is now 13 years old and commenced its life in my kitchen at home six months prior to the opening of Marque.

Organic fruit, (1 apple, 1 pear or 1 small bunch grapes) Filtered water Organic unbleached wheat flour (12 to 14 per cent protein)

6

By Mark Best From Marque Photography Stuart Scott

Sourdough starter Day 1 to day 3 De-stem the fruit and then blend to a rough pulp. Place in a very clean container and cover with muslin. Leave at room temperature.

Within 12 to 24 hours the natural yeast flora on the skin of the fruit will start a simple alcoholic ferment. At this stage it is very important to feed the ferment with a sprinkling of organic unbleached wheat flour (12 to 14 per cent protein) once a day. Do this for three days. It should have increased markedly in volume and have a fruity aldehydic smell. If there is no activity, or any mould forms, discard the mixture and start over, paying more attention to the hygiene of the utensils used.

Day 4 to day 6 Mix 1 cup flour with 1 cup filtered water. Mix into the ferment, then cover. This will at least double in volume. Repeat this process over the next two days. At this stage you will have to increase the volume of the container to contain the level of fermentation.

Portrait: Petrina Tinslay

Day 7 Mix 1.5kg flour with 1.2 litres water, then add to the ferment and cover for 24 hours. At this stage you are good to go. The starter needs to be fed every 24 hours with an equal volume of flour and water to keep it active and healthy.

On days you are not baking this means you will need to discard the same amount as you are adding to maintain the same volume.

At Marque we have two 20 litre buckets on 24-hour rotation. We put back what we take out to maintain the same volume. We store the buckets in the wine cellar at 18°C. I think this is the reason our starter is so long-lived and stable.

Sourdough loaves Begin this recipe one day in advance. Place 325g sourdough starter and 500ml water at 26°C together in a bowl and whisk to combine, then pour into a heavy-duty mixer with a dough hook. Combine 750g organic bakers’ flour and 120g organic wholemeal flour and add to the mixer. Use the dough hook to mix the dough for 1 minute then leave to hydrate for 30 minutes. Add 25g table salt and continue to mix for 6-10 minutes, or until elastic and smooth.

Remove from mixer and place in a large container with a lid. Leave at room temperature for about 4 hours, or until doubled in size. Turn out onto a clean bench and knock back by folding it over itself several times. Use a pastry cutter to cut two 750g portions of dough. Roll into tight balls using both hands in a circular motion. Allow to rest for 5 minutes. Line a baking tray with baking paper.

Take one ball of dough at a time and place it upside down on the workbench. Flatten into a 20×30cm rectangle about 3cm thick. Starting at one of the shorter ends, roll dough into a tight roll all the way to the end. Starting at the middle of the roll, use both hands to stretch and work the loaf so that it is around 25cm long and even in width. Push your hands down while rolling the ends of the loaf to produce nice rounded ends.

Gently lift loaf onto prepared tray and repeat with other loaf. Drape each loaf with a piece of plastic wrap, and then wrap the tray tightly with plastic wrap so it is not exposed to the air. Store in the refrigerator for 24 hours, to allow the loaves to prove slowly and develop in flavour.

Remove from refrigerator and allow to prove at room temperature until they have increased in size by around three-quarters and still spring back to the touch – this may take 3-4 hours.

To bake the loaves, preheat a combi steam oven to 240°C. Dust loaves with flour and slash 5 times in a diagonal motion, about 2cm deep, with a bread knife. Bake at 240°C on combination steam for 10 minutes, then reduce the heat to 230°C with no steam and bake for a further 15 minutes. Finish on 140°C with no steam for a final 5 minutes’ cooking. Allow to cool completely before cutting.

Cultured butter There is only one thing to eat with our bread and that is salted, cultured butter. We could buy it but it seems pointless and we would miss out on the wonderful by-products: crème fraîche, buttermilk, ricotta and whey. l Begin this recipe two days in advance.

Sanitise all surfaces that will be in contact with the cream or butter. Place 0.2 grams lactic starter (Danisco MM100) in a small bowl. Pour 10 litres organic cream into a large saucepan and warm to 25°C. Once the cream is at 25°C, add a small ladle of it into the bowl with the lactic starter and whisk thoroughly. Continue to heat the bulk of the cream up to 37.5°C. When the cream is at temperature, pour it into a sanitised bucket along with the lactic starter and stir together. Cover with a lid and leave at room temperature (it must be above 20°C) for 12 to 15 hours.

l Transfer to the refrigerator and leave

for at least 24 hours (in the restaurant, we mature it for 1 week).

l Pour the cream into a heavy-duty mixer

with a paddle attachment. Churn the cream until the butter is formed into small clumps, resembling popcorn.

l Strain the butter into a colander over

a bucket to collect the buttermilk for another use.

l Rinse the butter under running water to

get rid of any excess buttermilk.

l Return the butter to the mixer and churn

again using the paddle attachment to remove the water. Discard any water as the butter dispels it. Continue churning until the butter is without water.

l To mould the butter, line a butter mould

with baking paper. Use clean hands to roughly mould the butter to the shape of the mould. Season each mould liberally with Murray River pink salt then press the butter into the mould and close. Remove the butter from the mould and wrap tigthly in plastic wrap to prevent from oxidising.

Refrigerate for several hours, or until the butter is firm.

Best Kitchen Basics

By Mark Best

On 1 Masale rc 2016 h

Coming soon to Cooked.com.au 7

So hot right now: Korean

Discover why Korean cuisine is flavour of the month, with fiery recipes from your favourite cooks, plus a guide to must-have ingredients.

By Ben O’Donoghue From Ben’s Meat Bible Photography Benito Martin

Quick bibimbap Serves 4 370g short-grain white rice 90g bean sprouts ¼ cup rice vinegar 2 tsp salt 1 tbs sugar ¼ cup light soy sauce Pinch of chilli powder 3 tsp sesame oil 1 carrot, sliced into thin matchsticks 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped Salt Freshly ground black pepper 1 zucchini, sliced into thin matchsticks 400g beef fillet, thinly sliced 4 egg yolks 60g Japanese mayonnaise 1 spring onion, chopped 2 sheets toasted nori, sliced into thin matchsticks 1 tbs toasted sesame seeds Kimchi, to serve (optional) Korean hot sauce 80ml gochujang (fermented Korean chilli paste, see Glossary, page 11) 125g miso paste 1 tbs finely chopped bird’s eye chillies 1 tbs finely chopped green capsicum 6 garlic cloves 60g sesame seeds 2 tbs rice vinegar 1 tbs sesame oil 8

To make the Korean hot sauce, place all the ingredients in a food processor and puree until smooth. Set aside 2 tablespoons of the sauce and store the remainder in the refrigerator (see Note).

Rinse the rice under cold running water until the water runs clear.

Drain and transfer to a saucepan, along with 1 litre fresh water. Bring to a simmer over medium heat, then reduce the heat to low, cover and cook for 15-20 minutes, or until tender but not mushy. Set aside.

Bring a saucepan of salted water to the boil and blanch the bean sprouts for 30 seconds. Drain and refresh under cold running water. Transfer to a small bowl and set aside.

Combine the vinegar, salt, sugar, 1 tablespoon of the soy sauce and the chilli powder in a small saucepan. Bring to the boil and stir continuously to dissolve the sugar.

Remove from the heat and allow to cool. Pour the cooled mixture over the bean sprouts and set aside to pickle.

Meanwhile, heat 1 teaspoon of the sesame oil in a large frypan over high heat. Add the carrot and half the garlic, and stir-fry for 1 minute.

Season to taste with salt and pepper and use a slotted spoon to remove the garlic and carrot. Set aside.

Repeat with the zucchini and the remaining garlic.

Heat the remaining sesame oil in the pan over medium-high heat. Add the beef and stir-fry for 1-2 minutes, until browned and just cooked through. Add the remaining soy sauce and set aside.

Divide the cooked rice among serving bowls and arrange the carrot, zucchini, beef, pickled bean sprouts and egg yolks on top. Dollop with a little mayonnaise and scatter over the spring onion, toasted nori and sesame seeds. Serve with the Korean hot sauce and, if you like, a side of kimchi. l Ben's tip: This recipe makes more Korean hot sauce than you need for the recipe, about 200g. Store the remaining sauce in an airtight container, where it will keep refrigerated for up to 3 weeks. The Korean hot sauce is just like any tasty condiment, but better! It’s excellent served alongside barbecued or grilled meat or fish – and in burgers, too.

Preheat the oven to its lowest setting — 80°C would be ideal. Place each set of four ribs in separate oven bags. Remove as much air as possible, then tie up the bags so they are absolutely sealed.

By Daniel Wilson From Huxtabook Photography Chris Middleton

Korean barbecued pork ribs 8 pork ribs, with the belly still attached, cut into 2 portions of 4 ribs Chilli gherkins, to serve Spicy slaw ¼ Chinese cabbage, finely sliced 1 carrot, finely julienned using a mandoline 1 small daikon, finely julienned using a mandoline 2 spring onions, green part only 100g Japanese mayonnaise 2 tbs Sriracha chilli sauce Chilli paste 125g gochujang (see Glossary, page 11) 30ml light soy sauce 4 garlic cloves, crushed 2cm knob fresh ginger, peeled and finely grated 1 tbs sugar ½ tsp ground white pepper

Bring an ovenproof saucepan or casserole dish of water to poaching temperature (just below simmering point — there should be no movement in the water, maybe just a few bubbles on the bottom of the pan).

The pan needs to be big enough to hold all the pork, but small enough to fit in your oven with the lid on.

Place the bags of pork in the pan. Cover, transfer to the oven and cook for 10 hours, or overnight.

Remove the bags from the pan and let the pork rest for 10 minutes. Place the pork bags in a large iced water bath, until the pork is completely chilled and firm.

Remove the pork from the bags. Gently scrape off the jellied pork juice, then cut into individual ribs.

Reserve in the fridge.

For the spicy slaw, place the cabbage, carrot, daikon and spring onion in a bowl of iced water for 30 minutes, so they crisp up. Drain, then spin the vegetables in a lettuce spinner to dry them out. Toss the vegetables with the mayonnaise and Sriracha chilli sauce and mix well.

For the chilli paste, mix all the paste ingredients together and set aside.

To serve, preheat the oven to 180°C and line a baking tray with baking paper.

Heat a large non-stick frying pan over medium heat.

Add the ribs and cook until golden and crisp on all sides. Brush the ribs on the two cut sides with the chilli paste. Place on the baking tray and bake for 5 minutes.

Pile the slaw along one side of a platter. Slice the chilli gherkins lengthways and pile on the platter with the ribs. Get your fingers dirty and enjoy with beer! l 9

By Brent Owens From Dig In! Photography Mark Roper

Kimchi Makes 3kg 1 large Chinese cabbage 250g salt 90g rice flour 55g caster sugar 2 onions, peeled and roughly chopped 1 garlic bulb, cloves separated and peeled 5cm piece ginger, peeled and roughly chopped 190ml fish sauce 100g gochugaru (see Glossary, page 11) 7 spring onions, thinly sliced 1 daikon, peeled and julienned 1 nashi pear, peeled and julienned

BRENT’S TIPS When you add the paste, it’s a good idea to wear disposable gloves and mix it with your hands.

If you’re planning on using the kimchi sooner rather than later, leave a small amount out at room temperature to start fermenting quicker than the rest. It might be ready in 3-4 days this way.

I love pickles and especially hot and sour kimchi. It’s great by itself with rice, in a roll for lunch, as a salad or side with barbecued meat, with teriyaki or with pork buns.

This recipe makes a lot, but you will eat it by the fork-load!

10

Cut the cabbage into quarters and remove the core. Slice the quarters into 4cm chunks.

Rinse well to remove any grit. Put the cabbage in a large bowl, sprinkle with the salt and mix well. Leave for 3 hours, tossing the cabbage every hour. Rinse the cabbage thoroughly several times and set aside to drain in a colander.

Place 625ml water in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add the rice flour, bring to the boil and cook, stirring continuously, for 5-7 minutes until thickened. Add the sugar and cook for a further 2-3 minutes until the sugar dissolves. Remove from the heat and allow to cool.

In a food processor, blitz the onion, garlic and ginger until you have a paste. Add the fish sauce and pulse a few times to combine. Put the paste in a large bowl with the rice flour mixture. Stir in the gochugaru and add the spring onion, daikon, nashi pear and cabbage.

Mix thoroughly. Place in a large airtight container and store in the refrigerator.

Check your kimchi after a few days. Bubbles should be forming around the top, which means it is fermenting. If you want to speed up the fermentation process, leave the kimchi out of the refrigerator until it has reached the level of sourness to your taste. Kimchi will keep in the refrigerator, in a sealed container, for several months – if it lasts that long! l

GLOSSARY: Korean ingredients

Doenjang: This earthy, funky, fermented bean sauce is like a robust version of Japanese miso.

Gochugaru: These hot pepper flakes add fiery heat to a range of dishes, including kimchi.

Gochujang: This spicy, pungent paste is made with red chillies, glutinous rice flour and fermented soybeans.

Kimchi: From cabbage to cucumbers,

By Charmaine Solomon From The Complete Asian Cookbook Photography Alan Benson

Bulgogi 125ml soy sauce ⅓ cup finely chopped spring onion 2 tsp garlic, crushed 1 tsp fresh ginger, finely grated 1 tbs sugar ½ tsp freshly ground black pepper 2 tbs sesame seeds, toasted and crushed 1kg lean rump or fillet Yangnyum kanjang (recipe follows), to serve To make the marinade, combine all of the ingredients, except the beef, in a large bowl with 125ml water.

Cut the steak into very thin slices. Beat them out very flat, then cut into medium-size squares. Place in a dish with the marinade, turning to coat, then leave the meat to marinate for 3 hours or longer in the refrigerator. Grill briefly over glowing coals or in a chargrill pan and serve with rice and the bulgogi sauce (yangnyum kanjang).

Yangnyum kanjang Makes ½ cup ¼ cup soy sauce 2 tsp sesame oil 1 tsp doenjang (fermented bean sauce, see Glossary) or Chinese bean paste 2 tbs rice wine or dry sherry 1 tsp sesame seeds, toasted and crushed 2 tsp spring onion, finely chopped ½-1 tsp gochujang (fermented chilli bean paste, see Glossary) or chilli sauce 1 small garlic clove, crushed Salt, to taste 2 tsp sugar In a small bowl, combine the soy sauce, sesame oil, fermented bean sauce, rice wine, sesame seeds, spring onion, fermented chilli bean paste, if using, and 2 tablespoons water.

Crush together the garlic, salt and sugar to a fine paste. Add to the soy mixture and stir well to combine. Serve with the bulgogi. l

spring onions to sprouts, fermented kimchi makes an appearance in almost every Korean meal.

Rice vinegar: This delicate, clear vinegar is a versatile addition to your pantry, perfect for sushi, dipping sauces and salad dressings.

Ssamjang: A mixture of doenjang, gochujang, sesame oil and seasonings, this piquant sauce is served with Korean wraps, known as ssam.

Sesame oil:

Use nutty, luscious sesame oil to season marinades, stir-fries and salads.

11

From The Amalfi Coast

By Giancarlo Caldesi and Kate Caldesi Photography Helen Cathcart

late summer lunch Make the most of late summer’s bounty with this vibrant Italian lunch, inspired by the Amalfi Coast.

Rosemary & lime gin fizz Syrup 4 long rosemary sprigs 450g caster sugar 2 limes, juiced and zest peeled into lengths 500ml water Cocktail Gin Ice Soda or tonic water Wedge of lime for each glass Rosemary sprig for each glass

12

To make the syrup, put all the ingredients in a saucepan and bring to the boil, then lower the heat and simmer for 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and leave to cool. Line a sieve with muslin or a thin cloth and pour over a kettle-full of boiling water to sterilize it. Strain the syrup through the cloth into a sterilized jug and then into sterilized bottles. Store in the fridge for up to 3 weeks.

To make the cocktail, pour 30ml syrup and 50ml gin over ice, top with soda or tonic water and serve with a wedge of lime and a rosemary sprig. l

Pasta from the rocks Serves 4 350g spaghetti or linguine 50ml extra virgin olive oil 2 medium squid, cleaned and cut into 1 x 3cm strips 400g fresh clams, cleaned 400g fresh mussels, cleaned 4 raw king prawns, with shells 1 garlic clove, finely chopped ½ fresh red chilli, thinly sliced, depending on strength Handful of parsley, roughly chopped 50ml white wine 12 cherry tomatoes, halved Good pinch of salt Bring a pan of well-salted water to the boil and cook the pasta until al dente. Heat the oil in a large frypan, add the squid and cook through for just a few minutes. Add the remaining seafood, garlic, chilli and parsley. The shells will start to open in just a few minutes.

When they are all open, pour in the wine and let it reduce for a couple of minutes. Discard any unopened shells. Then add the cherry tomatoes and salt. Drain the pasta and toss in the sauce. Serve on warmed plates. l

13

Enza’s eggplants Serves 6-8 3 eggplants Fine sea salt 2 tbs extra virgin olive oil Topping 250g cherry tomatoes, diced 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 1 tsp dried oregano Freshly ground black pepper ⅓ cup extra virgin olive oil 10 anchovy fillets Small handful parsley, roughly chopped, to garnish Preheat the oven to 200°C. Cut the eggplants lengthways into 1.5cm thick slices (you should get about 10 slices) and then use a sharp knife to make shallow criss-crosses in the flesh. Lay the slices on a baking tray lined with baking paper and scatter with salt. Brush the top with olive oil and bake in the oven for about 25 minutes, or until soft and browned.

Meanwhile, make the topping. Mix together the tomatoes, garlic, oregano, black pepper and olive oil.

When the eggplants are done, remove from the oven and spoon the tomato mixture over, placing an anchovy over the top of each slice. Return to the oven for 15-20 minutes until the tomatoes have softened. Transfer to a serving dish and scatter with parsley.

Eat immediately or allow to cool to room temperature. This dish will keep in the fridge for a day or two but never serve fridge-cold. l

Insalata caprese Serves 4 300g flavourful ripe tomatoes 2 x 125g balls buffalo mozzarella 20 fresh basil leaves Salt and freshly ground black pepper ½ tsp dried oregano ¼ cup (60ml) best extra-virgin olive oil Cut the tomatoes into 1cm thick slices or quarter them if small. Cut the mozzarella into 1cm thick slices or tear into thick shreds. Alternate slices of tomato and mozzarella on a serving dish, with a basil leaf in between.

Season, sprinkle with oregano and drizzle with the olive oil. l

14

Hot potato & smoked cheese croquettes Makes 24 500g floury potatoes, such as maris piper 150g smoked cheese, such as scamorza affumicata or smoked cheddar 50g ham or cooked bacon, finely diced 50g parmesan or grana padano, finely grated 25g pecorino cheese, finely grated (or more parmesan) 2 tbs finely chopped parsley 2 free-range eggs, separated Salt and freshly ground black pepper Sunflower oil, for deep-frying 150g breadcrumbs Boil the potatoes whole in their skins in plenty of salted water. This preserves the flavour and prevents the potatoes from becoming watery. Cut the scamorza into 3cm x 1cm rectangles (you will need about 25 pieces). Set aside.

To check if the potatoes are done, poke the largest with a skewer or sharp knife: they should be tender inside. When there is no resistance, remove from the heat and drain. Hold the potatoes with a tea towel and peel off the skins using a sharp knife. Mash, preferably using a potato ricer, as this keeps the mash light and fluffy. Now use a large spoon or your hands to mix in the ham or bacon, finely grated cheeses, parsley, egg yolks and seasoning to taste.

Heat the oil so that it is ready for frying. Take a piece of mash the size of an egg and roll it into a ball. Put it into the palm of your hand and flatten. Place a rectangle of scamorza in the centre and fold the mash over to enclose it, making sure the cheese is completely covered. Repeat until all the mash is finished: you should have about 22-25 mini sausage-shaped croquettes.

Dip each croquette into the eggwhite and then coat in the breadcrumbs. Fry in batches until golden brown and drain on paper towel. Serve immediately, while the cheese is still soft inside. l

15

!

Do be fussy

in your choice of olives; the flavour is so much better if you buy them with stones in and remove them just before cooking.

Good-quality black kalamata or taggiasche are best for this dish.

To remove the stones, squash them with the blade of a knife and the stones will pop out.

As this dish is really based on whatever the hunter’s catch of the day is, it works equally well with rabbit or guinea fowl.

16

Hunter’s chicken Serves 6 1 free-range chicken, jointed Salt and freshly ground black pepper ‘00’ or plain flour, to coat the chicken Sunflower oil, to brown the chicken 2 sprigs rosemary 3 garlic cloves 2 slices unsmoked bacon and pancetta 100ml extra virgin olive oil 2 red capsicums, roughly chopped 2 large potatoes, peeled and chopped into large bite-size pieces 175ml white wine 2 tbs tomato puree 400g canned plum tomatoes 100g good-quality black olives, stoned 400ml water 1 tbs roughly chopped parsley Fresh crusty bread, to serve Season the pieces of chicken with salt and black pepper. Coat in flour and tap off the excess. A quick way of doing this is to put the flour in a plastic food bag with the chicken pieces and shake the bag, making sure the meat is evenly coated.

Heat the sunflower oil in a pan and brown the chicken very well all over. Remove the chicken from the pan and pour away the oil.

Finely chop the rosemary, garlic and bacon or pancetta together. Heat the olive oil in the pan and fry the rosemary, garlic and bacon for just 1 minute, taking care not to burn the mixture, before adding the capsicums and potatoes. Cook for 2 minutes and then return the chicken pieces to the pan. When hot, pour in the wine and allow it to evaporate for 2 minutes before adding the tomato puree, tomatoes, olives and cold water.

Wine matches

Break up the tomatoes with a wooden spoon. Partially cover the chicken and cook for about 1 hour, or until the meat falls off the bones. Stir in the parsley and serve with a green salad and hunks of bread to mop up the juices. l

Strawberry & lemon tiramisu Serves 6 500g strawberries 300ml whipping cream 250g mascarpone 2 lemons, zested and juiced 100g caster sugar 2 tbs maraschino liqueur, white wine or elderflower cordial 12 sponge fingers Icing sugar, for dusting Strawberry sauce 500g strawberries 50-100g caster sugar

Pasta from the rocks 2014 Oliver's Taranga Vermentino

Hunter's chicken 2012 Kangarilla Road Sangiovese

Antipasti 2015 De Bortoli Bella Riva Rosé

Strawberry tiramisu 2015 Brown Brothers Moscato

For the strawberry sauce, hull the strawberries and cut any large ones in half. Tip into a large saucepan and add the sugar, according to the sweetness of the fruit. Bring to a gentle boil and cook for 15-20 minutes, or until the strawberries give easily when squished against the side of the pan. Strain through a sieve into a jug and when cool store covered in the fridge, for up to 1 week.

Set aside six medium strawberries. In a bowl, whip the cream and then whisk in the mascarpone. Fold in the lemon zest and sugar, followed by the lemon juice. In a flat dish, mix the liqueur with 1½ tablespoons of the strawberry sauce, then dip the sponge fingers into the liqueur until they are just soft but not soggy.

Cut the remaining strawberries into slices. Lay a few slices in the bottom of 6 tumblers or martini glasses so that the slices are facing outwards, then add a layer of cream, the remaining sauce and the soaked sponge fingers. Finish with a layer of cream. Decorate each glass with a fanned strawberry and lightly dust with icing sugar. l 17

french AFFAIR

LUKE NGUYEN travelled the length of france, sourcing cherished family recipes and learning traditional techniques, which he shares in his lavish new book.

Mussels in white wine Serves 4-6

By Luke Nguyen From France Photography Alan Benson

When buying mussels, be sure they smell like the ocean.

Don’t buy any with shells that are cracked or open, or that refuse to close their shells when you handle or tap them. Try to cook the mussels immediately, but if you have to wait, place them in a bowl and cover them with a damp towel so they can breathe.

2kg mussels 50g butter 1 garlic clove, crushed 2 eschalots, sliced 1 leek, sliced, white part only 1 bay leaf 2 thyme sprigs, leaves picked 190ml white wine Chopped flat-leaf parsley, to garnish Crusty bread, to serve

18

Clean the mussels under running water, scrubbing off any dirt or seaweed and removing the beards.

Melt the butter in a large saucepan over low heat. Add the garlic, shallot, leek, bay leaf and thyme.

Cook for 6–7 minutes, or until the vegetables are translucent.

Add the mussels and the wine, cover the pan and increase the heat to high. Cook, stirring occasionally, for 3-5 minutes, or until the mussels have just opened.

Discard any unopened mussels.

Transfer the mussels to serving bowls and pour the cooking liquid over. Season with freshly ground black pepper, if you like, but never with salt – the mussels will be salty enough.

Garnish with parsley and serve with crusty bread. l

Serve this classic French recipe as a dinner party starter.

Lyonnaise salad Serves 4 Serve this classic French recipe as a dinner party starter.

Dash of white vinegar 4 free-range eggs – make sure they’re super fresh!

400g bacon lardons (thick-cut bacon, cut into matchsticks) 40 baby cos lettuce leaves Croutons â…“ cup (80ml) olive oil 12 thin slices stale baguette Dressing 8 eschalots, thinly sliced 4 tbs dijon mustard 2 tbs red wine vinegar 1 cup (250ml) extra virgin olive oil

To make the croutons, heat a frypan over medium heat. Add the olive oil and reduce the heat to low. Cook the baguette slices for about 3 minutes on each side, or until golden. Remove and drain on paper towel.

The croutons will crisp as they cool. They will keep in an airtight container in a cool dark place for several days.

Add the vinegar to a saucepan of slightly simmering water. Crack the eggs into separate ramekins. Using a large spoon, create a gentle whirlpool in the water to help the eggwhite wrap around the yolk during poaching. Slowly tip each egg into the water, white first. Leave to cook for 3 minutes, then remove the eggs

with a slotted spoon. Drain on paper towel, then carefully trim the edges with kitchen scissors for a perfect shape, if desired.

Meanwhile, place a frypan over medium heat and fry the bacon lardons for a few minutes, until nicely browned.

Add the dressing ingredients to a mixing bowl, combining well. Add the lettuce and toss gently to coat. Transfer the lettuce and dressing to serving plates, then garnish with the lardons and croutons.

Place a poached egg on top of each salad.

Season with sea salt and freshly ground black pepper and serve. l

19

Beef daube Serves 4-6 A meal in a bowl, this rich French stew uses an inexpensive cut of beef that is slowly braised in red wine and flavoured with aromatic cloves and juniper berries.

As we are using a lesser cut of beef here, you do need a long cooking period.

1 tbs olive oil 4 oxtail pieces, each 8-10 cm thick 1kg chuck steak, cut into 4cm chunks 150g smoked bacon, roughly diced 1 onion, diced 2 carrots, chopped 1 celery stalk, chopped 2 garlic cloves, smashed 750ml red wine 1 tsp black peppercorns 1 clove 4 juniper berries 2 oranges, zested, peeled and cut into segments, removing the membranes 1 tsp chopped flat-leaf parsley, to garnish Bouquet garni 4 parsley sprigs 1 celery stalk 1 thyme sprig 1 bay leaf

A meal in a bowl, this rich French stew uses an inexpensive cut of beef that is slowly braised in red wine and flavoured with aromatic cloves and juniper berries. As we are using a lesser cut of beef here, you do need a long cooking period.

20

Tie all the bouquet garni ingredients together with kitchen string.

Wine matches

In a large saucepan, heat the olive oil over high heat. Add the oxtail and brown on all sides, then remove and set aside.

Season the beef with a generous pinch of sea salt and freshly ground black pepper. Brown the beef in batches, removing each batch to a plate.

Reduce the heat to medium. Add the bacon, onion, carrots, celery and smashed garlic cloves to the pan and sauté for 3 minutes.

Now return the oxtail and beef to the pan, and pour in the wine. If the wine doesn’t cover the beef completely, add some water until this is achieved.

Add the bouquet garni, peppercorns, clove and juniper berries. Bring to the boil, skimming off any impurities that rise to the surface.

Once the surface of the liquid looks clean, reduce the heat to a very low simmer. Add the orange segments and gently simmer for 3½ hours, or until the beef is very tender.

Remove the bouquet garni, then transfer the stew to serving plates. Serve garnished with the parsley and orange zest. l

Mussels in white wine 2014 Audrey Wilkinson Chardonnay

Lyonnaise salad 2009 The Truffle & Wine Co Tamar Valley Vintage Sparkling

Beef daube 2015 Gemtree Cinnabar GSM

Petit lemon meringue tartlets 2011 Tim Adams Botrytis Riesling

This recipe belongs to patissier and cook, Gerhard Jenne. The curd will keep in a very clean sealed container in the refrigerator for 2 weeks.

Petit lemon meringue tartlets Makes 12 This recipe belongs to patissier and cook, Gerhard Jenne. The curd will keep in a very clean sealed container in the refrigerator for 2 weeks.

Softened butter, for greasing 2 egg whites A few drops lemon juice ½ cup (110g) caster sugar Sweet pastry ¼ cup (55g) caster sugar 1 egg yolk 100g salted butter, cut into cubes 1 cup (150g) plain flour Lemon curd 100g caster sugar 100g unsalted butter, diced 100ml lemon juice 2 eggs

To make the pastry, put the sugar and egg yolk in a bowl. Combine briefly with a wooden spoon, then add the butter. Using the spoon or your fingers, blend until the mixture comes together. (You can also use an electric mixer.)

Sift in the flour and quickly work everything into a dough. Shape into a flat slab, enclose in plastic wrap and rest in the fridge for 1 hour before using.

Meanwhile for the lemon curd, place the sugar, butter, lemon juice and eggs in a heatproof bowl. Now sit the bowl over a saucepan of simmering water, making sure the water doesn’t touch the base of the bowl.

Cook for 10-12 minutes, stirring constantly, until the mixture starts to thicken. To check whether it is thick enough, dip a wooden spoon into the curd, then run your finger down the back of it; it should leave a clear channel. Pour the curd into a clean bowl and leave to cool.

To make the tarts, grease a 12-hole 5cm mini-muffin tin with a little butter. Roll out the pastry on a lightly floured surface to 3mm thick. Cut out circles with a 6.5cm fluted pastry cutter. Use them to line the muffin tins, carefully pressing the pastry right down into the base. Chill for 30 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 180˚C. Line each tartlet case with foil and fill with dried beans or rice. Blind bake for 15 minutes, then remove from the oven and lift off the foil and beans or rice. Bake for a further 5 minutes, or until golden. Remove from the oven and leave to cool, but leave the oven on for browning the top of the meringues.

To make the meringue, put the eggwhites in a large, clean bowl. Add the lemon juice and a pinch of sea salt and start beating with an electric mixer. Once bubbles begin to form, start adding the sugar a tablespoonful at a time, and keep beating until you have a stiff but silky-looking meringue.

Pipe or spoon a heaped teaspoon of lemon curd into each tartlet. Using a piping bag fitted with a 5mm plain nozzle, pipe circles of meringue into small peaks on each tartlet.

Place the tartlets in the oven with both the fan and grill switched on and leave for a few minutes, until the meringue tops are nicely browned – or use a kitchen blowtorch to caramelise the meringue evenly all over and give a defined two-tone effect.

The tartlets are best enjoyed the same day. l 21

high-tech sweets Test your cooking skills with these professional recipes for nougat, chocolates and macarons.

From Atelier Confectionery

By Yasmin Othman Photography Lisa Linder

Basic nougat with pistachios, almonds and cherries Vegetable oil, for oiling 4 small sheets rice paper or 2 large sheets rice paper 300g white sugar 50ml water 150ml honey 1 large egg white 100g pistachio nuts, toasted 100g blanched almonds, toasted 50g dried cherries Lightly oil and line a 19cm square tin with baking paper, then with 1 or 2 sheets of rice paper.

Heat the sugar, water and honey in a heavybased saucepan over medium heat and stir until the sugar has dissolved. Bring to the boil, insert a sugar thermometer and cook until the mixture reaches 120째C for a very soft nougat, 143째C for a soft nougat and 150째C for a firm nougat.

Meanwhile, whisk the egg white in a freestanding food mixer until soft peaks form. Once the syrup has reached the correct temperature, remove from the heat and slowly pour the sugar mixture into the meringue while still whisking on medium speed. Whisk until the mixture thickens and turns creamy in colour. Stir in the nuts and cherries and mix well.

Spoon the mixture into the prepared tin and level the top. Place another sheet or 2 of rice paper on top, pressing gently. Leave to cool completely for at least 3-4 hours, or preferably overnight at room temperature before cutting into pieces or strips. Store in an airtight container with baking paper between the pieces or strips for up to 2 weeks. l 22

Macarons Makes 46 Vegetable oil, for oiling 100g ground almonds 100g icing sugar 3 medium egg whites 100g caster sugar 2 drops each food colouring

Preheat the oven to 180째C. Lightly oil a macaron tin or lightly oil and line a large baking tray with baking paper. Draw 2.5 cm circles on the paper as a guide.

Fill disposable piping bags with the mixture, then snip the ends and pipe within the indentations of the tin or onto the prepared tray. Leave for 5-10 minutes so the meringue dries out and forms a skin.

In a food processor, blitz the ground almonds and icing sugar together, then sift into a bowl and set aside.

Place in the oven and immediately reduce the oven temperature to 150째C and bake for 15-20 minutes.

Remove from the oven and leave to cool. As soon as the mixture is cool enough to handle, remove from the tin and cool on a wire rack.

Place the egg whites in a freestanding mixer with a whisk attachment and whisk until foamy. Add tablespoonfuls of the caster sugar, one spoonful at a time, until the meringue is shiny and glossy.

Fold in the ground almonds and icing sugar mixture until well combined, then divide the mixture into 3 bowls, add the food colouring and mix well.

Once cooled, sandwich the macarons together with your desired filling. Unfilled macarons can be wrapped and frozen for up to a month or in an airtight container for up to a week. l

23

Peanut and caramel chocolate bars Makes 8 200g raw skinned peanuts 500g milk chocolate, tempered (see page 25) ½ batch basic nougat with pistachios, almonds and cherries, omitting the fruit and nuts (see page 22) 50g milk chocolate, melted Soft caramel filling 100g caster sugar 15ml liquid glucose 65ml thick cream ½ tsp vanilla extract 75 unsalted butter, cubed Preheat the oven to 180°C. Place the peanuts on a baking tray and roast in the oven for 10 minutes until golden brown. Remove from the oven and leave to cool. Roughly chop half of the peanuts and leave the rest whole.

Cover a chocolate bar mould with the tempered chocolate and leave to set in a cool dry place for 15-20 minutes.

Meanwhile, for the caramel, place the sugar and liquid glucose in a heavy-based saucepan and heat over a medium heat until the sugar melts and forms an amber coloured caramel.

Meanwhile, heat the cream and vanilla extract together in a saucepan. Bring to the boil and remove from the heat. Add the cream to the caramel mixture and mix well until combined.

Remove from the heat and add the butter, a cube at a time, and mix the caramel well.

Leave to cool in a cool dry place for about 20 minutes.

Mix the soft caramel and peanuts together in a bowl. Once the chocolate bar mould has set, fill the cavity with the peanut and caramel mixture until half full, then leave to set for 10 minutes in a cool dry place.

In a bowl, thoroughly mix the basic nougat mixture with the 50g melted milk chocolate.

Place in a disposable piping bag, snip off the end and pipe onto the set peanut caramels.

Leave to set again in a cool dry place for 10 minutes.

Cover the top of the nougat with more chocolate then leave to set for 3-4 hours before removing from the mould. Store in an airtight container in a cool dry place for up to a week. l 24

Cherry truffles Makes 40 250g dark chocolate chips 200ml thick cream 30g unsalted butter, cubed 75g dried cherries 20g freeze-dried cherries, finely chopped Unsweetened cocoa powder, for dusting 100g dark chocolate, melted Line a baking tray with baking paper.

Place the chocolate chips in a large heatproof bowl.

Bring the cream to the boil in a saucepan. Remove from the heat and pour the cream onto the chocolate and mix well. Add the butter, a cube at a time, and mix until fully combined and smooth, then stir in the dried cherries. Leave the ganache to set for at least 4 hours before making into truffles.

Place the freeze-dried cherries into a shallow bowl or tray.

Once the ganache has set, lightly dust your hands with cocoa powder, then take heaped teaspoons of the ganache and roll into balls. Half dip the truffle into the melted chocolate and roll in your palms ensuring that the melted chocolate is covering the truffle. Roll into the freeze-dried cherries and place onto the baking tray.

Leave to set in a cool dry place for about 1 hour. Store in a cool dry place for up to 5 days. l

How to temper chocolate

Take 500g dark chocolate chips and place two-thirds of the chocolate into a large heatproof bowl. Place the bowl over a saucepan of gently simmering water (double-boiler) and make sure that the bowl does not touch the water.

Melt the chocolate and stir to ensure that all the chocolate pieces have melted.

Completely melt the chocolate until it has reached 45-50°C. The same temperature applies to milk chocolate but only to 45°C for white chocolate. The chocolate needs to reach this temperature to ensure that the fats and sugars in the chocolate have melted evenly. If the chocolate is overheated it might become grainy and ‘seize’.

Add the remaining chocolate to the melted chocolate; this is called the seed.

Keep stirring constantly until the chocolate has melted.

This will cool down and thicken the chocolate to 31-32°C. This is the tempered temperature you are looking for.

For milk and white chocolates, they should reach 29-30°C. If the temperature goes below this temperature, warm the water in the double-boiler and continue stirring the chocolate until it reaches the tempered temperature.

The chocolate should be smooth and glossy and is now ready to use.

25

CULTURAL QUIRKS

NAILING THE BASICS

By Casey Warrener

Follow these basics when setting your table. Place the bread plate on the left, and your glassware on the right. A butter knife can be placed on top of the bread plate, and your glassware will typically be stacked from smallest to biggest, right to left (water, white and red wine glasses). Angle your glasses above your cutlery on the right-hand side.

If you’re working with napkin folding, make sure your fold is flat against your cutlery and the edge is facing out. The napkin-to-the-side is pretty old-school though, and we reckon you can throw the rules out the window a bit here – roll your napkins, fan them, place them on top of your plates, work them into origami – whatever! When your guests get up from the table and drape their napkins over chairs or crumple them onto the table, the 'proper' thing to do would be to refold or roll them.

With your utensils, you always work from the outside in, so when you’re setting consider your courses – main course cutlery will sit closest to your plate, and each preceding entree should be placed in the appropriate order outside of that. Soup spoons go on the right, and dessert cutlery is most easily distinguished when placed above your plates. If you don’t want to overload the table, leave dessert utensils out of the equation until you're ready to serve sweets.

If you want to get real fancy you can ‘crumb’ the table after each course. Using a pen-like tool (like this nifty number), scrape away anything that has fallen onto the tablecloth into a napkin.

‘Boxing’ means to line up all of your place settings with each other, with the aim of achieving overall symmetry and balance for your table. Some restaurants will go as far as to use rulers to make sure everything is evenly spaced and in its right place. l 26

In Korea and Japan, where chopsticks are the norm, it’s considered a faux pas to cross your chopsticks on the plate. So if you’re thinking of an Asian-themed table that places chopsticks in a neat ‘X’ shape, think again. Likewise, serving your rice or noodles with chopsticks vertically stuffed into bowls or balanced on top is a no-go, as this is said to resemeble incense at a funeral.

MAKING YOUR MARK

Adding your own stylistic stamp to table settings is fun, and gives you the opportunity to rebel against the stuffiness that often comes with fine dining (in all of its starched white napkin, steam-ironed tablecloth, perfectly polished glassware glory).

When doing it yourself, you don’t even need to match your plates if you don’t want to. Go nuts.

Napkins

Scout out an embroidered set, or pimp your fabric with a few flashy napkin rings.

Crockery

Patterned plates, bowls and ramekins will add colour and exoticism to any table.

Cutlery

In Italy, it’s not typical to find extra cheese at the table – nor should you ask for it. Covering your meal in piles of parmesan is an Italiano no-no.

But here at Cooked we love our cheese, and would totally understand if you wanted to serve a big ol’ bowl of grana padano with your pasta.

In France, it’s customary to place your cutlery facing downwards rather than upwards. The reason for this is to show off the quality of the cutlery, as most good silverware has its markings imprinted on the back.

Instead of basic silver, go for gold (or, even better, rose gold) with a fun Alice in Wonderland style set. Another way you can make a statement is to choose stylish shapes, or a mixed-medium set such as silverware with marble handles.

Tablecloths

Find a fab tablecloth and the rest is easy. If you want eclectic flatware, it’s best to keep your base subdued, but feel free to go to town with vintage fabrics or bold Marimekko prints.

It’s all in the details…

You can never go wrong with a beautiful bunch of flowers as your centrepiece, and to set the mood try adding a couple of tealight candles. Finally, make it personal by placing handcrafted name cards or your own printed menus on the table. l 27