FREE
SPRING 2019
Highland 25 years OUTDOORS
OF THE
CHEAT RIVER FESTIVAL
big water NEW RIVER GORGE SPRING RAFTING
WV GEAR SHOPS
NRG CRACK CLIMBS
CANAAN MTB FESTIVAL
SMOKEHOLE FISHING
LIFE’S A
RIDE.
WHERE WILL IT TAKE YOU?
OVER 100 MILES OF: • Rails-to-Trails • Single-Track Trails • Gravel Roads • Full-Scale Bike Shop in Davis
CANAANVALLEY.ORG | 800.782.2775
25th Annual Cheat River Festival MAY 3-4, 2019 ALBRIGHT, WV
5K Race Downriver Race Art Market Delicious Food Kids’ Tent Workshops Silent Auction & Raffles NO GLASS NO PETS PROCEEDS BENEFIT
Rasta Rafiki 6 Joint Chiefs 6 Hillbilly Gypsies Megan Jean & the KFB
Vince Herman & Friends Stewed Mulligan
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6 18 Strings 6 Shady Grove 6 Ruby EMay & the Soundmen 6 Meadow Run 6 The Fly Birds 6 LocalMotive 6 Paul Burger Matt Mullins & the Bringdowns
TICKETS & MORE AVAILABLE AT WWW.CHEATFEST.ORG
Get Out. Explore. Bring Beer.
West Virginia’s Beer FREE WIFI, OUTDOOR SEATING
Fresh Salads, Sandwiches, Coffee, Smoothies, Local Beer Made From Scratch Soups, Pastries, Cakes, Cupcakes
Morgantown
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HIGHLAND OUTDOORS SPRING 2019
AMERICA’S BEST
WHITEWATER
PLAYONTHEGORGE.COM 855.923.7619
UPCOMING EVENTS 2019 FIRE & ICE FESTIVAL - APRIL 27 MOTHER ’S DAY BUFFET - MAY 12 BREWGRASS - JUNE 8 JULY 4TH ON THE 5TH - JULY 5 BBQ & BREWS - AUGUST 24 BRIDGE DAY - OCTOBER 19
STAFF Publisher | Editor-in-Chief: Dylan Jones Associate Editor: Nikki Forrester Account Executives: Dylan Jones, Nikki Forrester Copy Editor: Dylan Jones Editor-at-Large: Juniper Rose Design: Nikki Forrester, Tara Smith
CONTRIBUTORS
FROM THE EDITOR Can you believe it’s spring already? Neither can we. Soon enough, the ramps will be sprouting, and Appalachian foragers will be smiling and stinking to high (almost) heaven. With the welcome arrival of the vernal equinox comes 2019’s first edition of Highland Outdoors, and you might be noticing that things look a little different. During the dark nights of winter, associate editor Nikki Forrester took it upon herself to learn graphic design, allowing us to finally put our own genuine stamp on West Virginia’s outdoor magazine. We sincerely hope you enjoy the new look as we strive to make this one helluva purdy publication. Along with fresh ramps and fresher graphics comes the regreening of Appalachia, highlighted by a buffet of local events and festivals to regreen your soul. You can’t mention springtime events without the venerable Cheat River Festival. This year, Cheat Fest turns 25, and we’ve put together our own tribute to this legendary event that has helped revitalize the Cheat River watershed over the last quarter-century.
As Friends of the Cheat executive director Amanda Pitzer says, “Cheat Fest is a place and time that brings people together of varied interests and backgrounds. For the community, it’s this bright spot of shared celebration and appreciation of this place. It’s a story that people can tell for generations about a group people who worked to change something that they thought was wrong and won.” You can read more of her wisdom in her profile on page 36. We’re incredibly proud to be a sponsor of the 25th Cheat River Festival and invite you to celebrate the river with us over the first weekend in May. Come for the weekend, or just show up for Saturday’s outstanding playbill of local music. Bring a lawn chair; bring your friends. And, of course, join us at the Highland Outdoors tent for a legal adult beverage. Long live the mighty Cheat!
ADVERTISING Request a media kit or send inquiries to: info@highland-outdoors.com
SUBMISSIONS Please send pitches and photos to: dylan@highland-outdoors.com
DISCLAIMER Outdoor activities are inherently risky. Highland Outdoors will not be held responsible for your decision to play outdoors.
COVER Strapped into his handmade squirt boat, Jim Snyder goes deep in Fascination Alley on the Cheat River Narrows. Photo by Gabe DeWitt. Copyright © 2019 by Highland Outdoors. All rights reserved. Highland Outdoors is published by DJones Media, LLC, and printed at Freeport Press in Freeport, OH. Matt Cline
I’ve attended every Cheat Fest since 2011, and this event has become one of—
if not the—premier events of the year. For me, Cheat Fest is the collective human embodiment of the Cheat River and the manifestation of the Appalachian soul: vibrant, resilient, stubborn, playful, beautiful, full of sound.
Matt Cline, Gabe DeWitt, Friends of the Cheat, Nikki Forrester, Sue Haywood, Dylan Jones, Eric Lee, Kent Mason, Bryan Miller, Paul Nelson, Juniper Rose, Nick Rothenbush, Jesse Thornton, Mike Turner, Joel Wolpert, Jay Young, ACE Adventure Resort, Adventures on the Gorge
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HIGHLAND OUTDOORS SPRING 2019
Punching through Miller's Folly in the New River Gorge.
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Spring Flows Reign Supreme in the New River Gorge
Contents
By Juniper Rose
Features
Courtesy Adventures on the Gorge
10 18
Rally in the Valley
Departments
12
Ramp It Up
14
Jammin the New
Canaan Mountain Bike Festival
‘Tis the Season for Tasty Greens
Best Splitter Cracks of the New River Gorge
By Sue Haywood
By Nikki Forrester
By Paul Nelson
Silver Lining
Big Water
28
Gear Ye, Gear Ye
32
25 Years of the Cheat River Festival
WV’s Local Outdoor Shops
Fishing Smoke Hole Canyon
By Dylan Jones
By Dylan Jones
By Eric Lee
8
Briefs
36
Profile
38
Events Calendar
39
Gallery
SPRING 2019 HIGHLAND-OUTDOORS.COM
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BR I E F
Will the New River Gorge Become a National Park? By Jay Young
In December of 2018, Senator Shelley Moore Capito (R-WV) introduced a bill in the U.S. Senate to redesignate the New River Gorge National River as the New River Gorge National Park. The New River Gorge is already managed by the National Park Service (NPS), but National River lands have different regulations than National Park lands. Ultimately, the purpose of the redesignation is to increase visitorship and tourism to the region. A study by Headwaters Economics, an independent nonprofit research group, found that eight National Monuments that were redesignated as National Parks enjoyed 21 percent more visitors annually within five years of redesignation. Though the study is often cited as a primary driver in the argument for redesignation of the New River Gorge, the data showed that results could in fact be all over the map. “I don’t feel comfortable saying that the New River will see 21 percent more visitors just based on our study,” said Ray Rasker, the study’s lead author. Gateway communities like Fayetteville and Oak Hill could benefit by fully embracing the National Park brand. “How much does a local chamber of commerce promote that,” asked Rasker. “Is it celebrated? Do they advertise it? I think that makes it much more likely a park and a community would benefit from rebranding.” But the proposed redesignation has some concerned that currently-sanctioned activities in the park—climbing, rafting, hunting, and fishing—might see restrictions or bans. Justin Hettick, president of the West Virginia Bowhunters Association, voiced concern that if the bill passes, local officials might overstep their bounds. “It’s not outright opposition, but I at least have real concerns,” Hettick said. “If, at the end of the day, the status quo is maintained, then no blood, no foul. But we can’t predict the unintended consequences.” Based on concerns from West Virginia’s sportsman groups, Capito announced she intends to resubmit a new bill that
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HIGHLAND OUTDOORS SPRING 2019
calls for the creation of a New River Gorge National Park & Preserve. “We’ll drop a new bill that has the park and preserve designation,” Capito said. “In that bill will be the [map] drawings that show where the lines will be between an existing park and a preserve, so it will have much more specificity.” Those lines will define in which areas hunting will be allowed. “My understanding,” said Capito, “is it does not change that, and it lets the states keep the governance issues as they currently exist.” “This bill is trying to make something good better,” said Dave Arnold, retired co-founder of Adventures on the Gorge, a Fayetteville-based whitewater rafting outfitter. Arnold had some input in the drafting of the original bill. “But no question, it would die immediately if protection for hunting and fishing were eliminated in the amendment process.” Capito admitted her original bill allowed for potential elimination of hunting or a decrease in the acreage upon which hunting would be permitted. If redesignated only as a National Park, the New River Gorge would require an unprecedented exception to NPS hunting rules. “Much less so with a National Park and Preserve,” explained Capito. New River Gorge National River superintendent Lizzie Watts declined to comment before a new bill is officially introduced and before the NPS can weigh in on it as an agency. She did mention, however, that any redesignation would likely result in unspecified effects on operations. Gene Kistler, owner of Water Stone Outdoors and president of the New River Alliance of Climbers (NRAC), echoed a sentiment that exists in pockets throughout the community and across recreational disciplines, namely that the New River Gorge needs some work to bring it up to the standards of the National Park brand. Kistler is especially concerned about trail quality. “I don’t want the New River Gorge to be the place where the National Park brand was diminished,” he said. “Clearly, we need foot traffic to keep our businesses open and thriving. The tendency in West Virginia is to look for silver bullets, when a bunch of copper bullets will do. I hope this is one of those.”
Dylan Jones
Disclosure: Jay Young works for New River Gorge rafting company which could potentially benefit from redesignation.
BR I E F
WV Land Trust to Buy Moon Rocks miles of the classic Moon RocksHoodoo Rock loop trail, and links to over 20 miles of the Heart of the Highlands Trail System. According to Spatafore, a recreation management plan has already been developed that will include stakeholders to inform decisions on recreation-based issues. “Part of [the WVLT] mission is to provide recreation,” Spatafore said. “Nothing is more exciting than when we’re on a potential Land Trust property and we run into people and see them using it; we feel validated. Moon Rocks is honestly one of the coolest properties I’ve ever seen; it’s essential to keep it open to the public.”
By Dylan Jones Positivity champion Norman Vincent Peale famously quipped, “Shoot for the moon. Even if you miss, you’ll land among stars.” The West Virginia Land Trust (WVLT) is shooting for the moon, and if everything goes as planned, will be landing among rocks—Moon Rocks.
Kent Mason
The WVLT, a statewide nonprofit dedicated to protecting special landscapes, is full tilt into its fundraising campaign to purchase 900 acres of undeveloped land in Tucker County. The parcel, which will be called the Yellow Creek Preserve, includes the famed Moon Rocks formation. The WVLT has inked an agreement with the Vandalia Heritage Foundation, the current landowner. “Vandalia made a very gracious offer, and I think they deserve some credit for wanting to support the community as well,” said Lands Program Manager Asthon Berdine. On December 10, 2018, the WVLT received a $400,000 abandoned mine land (AML) grant from the state. The WVLT was also awarded a $250,000 grant in 2018 by the West Virginia
Outdoor Heritage Conservation Fund (WVOHCF) to go toward the purchase. With the AML and WVOHCF grants comprising the majority of the confidential purchase price, the WVLT has been charging ahead on the campaign to raise funds from public and private donors to reach its goal. According to Director of Development & Communications Jessica Spatafore, there’s about $80,000 to go, and she’s confident the WVLT will hit its financial goals. If Yellow Creek and Moon Rocks ring a bell, it’s because this otherworldly landscape has been a mountain biking destination for decades. If you don’t like to hurl yourself down rutted rock on two wheels, don’t worry—the WVLT plans to promote hiking in the Yellow Creek Preserve by developing new trails and shoring up existing paths. With its brilliant tannic-stained waters and flora unique to the Potomac Highlands, Yellow Creek itself is bound to become a destination for hikers and birders. The preserve currently contains over three
Although the WVLT will manage the Yellow Creek Preserve to include recreation, it’s also focusing on the preserve for its ecological value as part of the largest wetland in the central Appalachians. “The majority of the property is high-conservation value,” Berdine said. “I’ve always had an eye on Canaan Valley because it’s so unique botanically with the wetlands there. It’s our duty to protect what’s left of that, that’s a big issue personally for me as a scientist.” With the addition of the Yellow Creek Preserve, the WVLT will add a fresh line to an already successful preservation resume. The WVLT has preserved nearly 10,000 acres in West Virginia to date, including recent acquisitions of over 665 acres in the Gauley River Canyon, 14 acres of historic Civil War grounds in Bartow, 125 acres on Bickle Knob, and the 282-acre Needleseye Boulder Park near Oak Hill. To find out more about the Yellow Creek Preserve or donate to the cause, visit: www.buythemoonwv.org w
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RALLY
IN THE
VALLEY
By Sue Haywood
Riders relax after a group ride at Pendleton Point in Blackwater Falls State Park.
or the last ten years, the Canaan MTB Festival hasn’t strived to be the biggest or most commercial mountain bike festival in West Virginia. You won’t be able to demo a $10,000 carbon fiber bike. We don’t give out a plastic swag bag filled with corporate advertisements. There are no lines to wait in. We do things our own way. We’re here to welcome you with smile, hug, and a fist bump, and then show you a home-grown good time on two wheels.
the East Coast. It was a homey affair yet had lots of wild and wonderful going on.
The Canaan MTB Festival is a grassroots celebration of our Tucker County mountain community through the prism of the mountain bike. Ultimately, the festival celebrates our area’s trails, which are the veins that deliver the lifeblood of an outdoor community.
INSPIRING REVOLUTIONS The Canaan MTB Festival was inspired by two renowned mountain bike festivals in the Virginias. During the late 80s and until the late 90s the Slatyfork Fat Tire Festival at Elk River Touring Center reigned supreme. I went in 1996 and rode the deep, dark woods of Gauley Mountain with folks from all over
My other inspiration was the Shenandoah Mountain Bike Festival held in the aptly named town of Stokesville, VA at the Stokesville Campground. It started in 1997 and is still a volunteer-run affair with a strong emphasis on trail work, group meals, and a legendary nightlife that included a beer crit and night slalom course on slippery grass. The festival has since matured and now raises thousands of dollars for the Shenandoah Valley Bicycle Coalition. I attended last year and was blown away by the strong attendance, including kids of all ages all riding their bikes non-stop around the campground trails.
DEEP ROOTS The Canaan MTB Festival is a tip of the hat to the deep roots of the Davis mountain bike racing from the 80s— including the infamous Blackwater 100 motorcycle race from the 70s. Canaan Valley was the epicenter of racing over gnarly, muddy terrain. National races were held where thousands of hardy riders tested their mettle among rocks
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Building off the template of other festivals with the tools of our rich racing heritage, the driving motivation for me to start the Canaan MTB Festival in 2009 was to give back to the area that has contributed so much to my life. The terrain here can have a beautiful brutality to it. It’s gorgeous yet can be unforgiving on body and equipment. It’s this terrain that forged my career as a professional racer, where I went on to win National and Continental Championships and even a World Title. I wouldn’t have been successful as a professional racer without my mental spitfire being forged in the bogs of Moon Rocks or my technical skills being honed on the brutal terrain of Plantation Trail. If you can ride well in Canaan, you can ride well anywhere. I wasn’t born in West Virginia, but I my love of mountain biking—and the outdoors—was born here in the Mountain State.
"If you can ride well in Canaan, you can ride well anywhere."
Dylan Jones
F
and bogs. If the land could talk, it would tell stories of curses and tears, of lost shoes and busted gears.
NON-STOP FUN Over the course of this long weekend in June, attendees can choose from a diverse menu of locally-sourced, bike-related activities. We kick it off on Thursday evening with the Ride at Five—a massively fun group ride that heads out from Blackwater Bikes in Davis. On Friday, both men and women can take a range of skills clinics with professional instructors and then enjoy a locally-catered lunch in Blackwater Falls State Park. Kids get their chance also to work on their skills by riding over purpose-built obstacles before a group trail ride. If you’ve never seen our organic take on a bike trials contest, come to the Run What Ya Brung bike trials on Friday evening, where riders show off their technical skills on mini courses designed to push their limits. It’s like an 18-hole mini-golf course on steroids. While only about 20 people compete, hundreds spectate, cheer, and gasp from section to section.
local riding areas. I’m proud that the festival can give back something to the local trails while bringing in people to support our local economy. This year’s festival will be held June 14 – 16. We are continually uplifted by the way the festival is sustainably growing, positively influencing the community, and bringing the mountain biking fun to residents and visitors. Hop on your bike and come inspire future revolutions! w
SALES * SERVICE * RENTALS * SHUTTLES
Sue Haywood is mountain biking legend, world champion, and overall badass. She teaches skills clinics and inspires riders of all ages to get out and embrace the mountain biking lifestyle.
www.blackwaterbikes.com Top: Men’s skills clinic. Bottom: Competitors show off their skills at the Run What Ya Brung trials course.
You can put your strength to a good cause by doing volunteer trail work to help with maintaining the many miles of trails. Saturday is the big day with group rides of varying abilities offered and led by interesting locals. And you should save some energy to dance the night away at the FUNdraiser party Saturday night.
Photos by Dylan Jones
If the trials is more of a pro-style event, come join in on the Sunday bike hash—a classic game of hounds chasing hares. A duo of skilled riders gets a head start and leads the chasing mob on a wild goose chase through our local trail network. You could say the bike hash is the event for the people! We recently celebrated our ten-year anniversary with over 250 intrepid and friendly people and raised thousands for our local International Mountain Biking Association (IMBA) chapter, the Blackwater Bicycle Association (BBA). BBA uses the proceeds from the FUNdraiser and dinner raffle to advocate for trails, organize routine trail work, and advance the stewardship of SPRING 2019 HIGHLAND-OUTDOORS.COM
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RAMP IT STEADY By Nikki Forrester
F
resh, green, and stinky, ramps are one of the early edible indicators that spring has officially arrived. From homecooked meals to full-on feasts, these tasty wild leeks have been a staple of West Virginia’s identity for over a century. In the past decade, the local and wild foods movement has driven a huge increase in demand for Appalachian foods. Ramps can now be found in Whole Foods and highend restaurants from New York City to Los Angeles. While a rising demand for ramps has boosted the economy in West Virginia for some, others worry that overharvesting will prevent future generations from enjoying these essential edibles.
Ramps (Allium tricoccum) are native to hardwood forests of the eastern United States and Canada. Their bulbs remain underground all year, but their leaves emerge after the snow melts in March or April, making them an ideal indicator for the arrival of spring. While ramps coat entire hillsides in some areas, other regions have noted a marked decline in populations. In Quebec, nearly 20 percent of documented wild ramp populations have disappeared, leading
Sustainable harvesting is defined as a harvest “in which plant products can be harvested indefinitely from a limited area with little impact to the populations,” says botanist Janet Rock in a paper published about ramps in the journal Biological Conservation. Rock and other researchers suggest that a sustainable harvest rate for ramps would be 10 percent of a population once every 10 years but noted that harvesting as little as five percent of a population could still be detrimental. As a relatively slow-growing species, ramps take seven to 10 years to reach maturity. During this time, ramps gather and store resources in bulbs to support their growth for the following year. Although flowers and seeds can increase population sizes, ramps primarily add to their populations through bulk propagation. Local harvesters use a variety of approaches to minimize their impacts on wild ramps. “I typically use a small knife to dig up part of a clump of ramps,” says Davis resident Frank Slider, a Master Naturalist who has been eating ramps since he was 12 and prefers them with potatoes and eggs. Slider leaves a few individuals in each patch and rotates his sampling sites
Photo and illustration: Dylan Jones
With a flavor profile that blends the spice of onion and garlic with the crunch of salad greens, ramps can be munched straight from the soil or cooked up in a variety of dishes. As the ramp leaves pop up from the soil each spring, so too do the annual ramp dinners across the Mountain State. Richwood’s Feast of the Ramson Festival, the oldest ramp festival in
West Virginia, will be celebrating its 81st birthday this April. These events bring together local communities and feature arts, crafts, and music alongside heaps and heaps of ramps. Although these events define spring in Appalachia, the increased popularity of ramps has led to concerns about overharvesting wild populations. “I want these festivals to be a sustainable opportunity for folks in the future,” says Doug Manning, an ecologist based in West Virginia, “that’s why we need to think about sustainable practices for harvesting and cultivating ramps.”
to a ban on commercial harvesting. Ramps are endangered in New York and considered a species of concern in Tennessee. In the Monongahela National Forest of West Virginia, personal collection of ramps is allowed, but not commercial harvesting. These declines in wild ramp populations have raised questions about balancing the cultural value of ramps with ecological concerns of overharvesting.
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to prevent harvesting too many plants from a single population. Manning also tries to reduce his impact while harvesting: “When it comes to sustainable harvesting practices, I follow the guidance put out there by researchers such as Jim Chamberlain to harvest late in the season and harvest less than 10 percent of a patch once every 10 years. Realistically for me, this number is closer to 1 percent. I also collect and harvest more greens than collecting whole bulbs.” Harvesting only the leaves is thought to allow the bulbs to sprout again the following year. Cultivating ramp gardens and farms may be another great way to “reduce pressure on wild populations,” says Slider, who has developed a ramp garden of his own by propagating bulbs and planting seeds. “I think there’s a great opportunity in West Virginia to cultivate ramps as crops and nontimber forest products,” says Manning. This is an approach that Glen and Norene Facemire have taken in Richwood, West Virginia, where they claim to have the only ramp farm in the world.
The popularity of ramps will likely rise as urban foodies continue their quest for rural delicacies. While increased demand could lead to the downfall of wild ramp populations, it conversely presents an opportunity to develop innovative approaches that maintain the viability of ramp populations while ensuring that West Virginians maintain a cultural connection to this wild edible. “What I love most about ramps is being out in the forest and digging them,” says Manning. “Ramps grow in the most beautiful places in the forest, where it’s sunny and warm and you’re surrounded by Trillium, bloodroot, Hepatica, and all these other spring ephemerals. Then you get to go share them with all your friends. Those are my favorite days of the whole year. I never see people as giddy and happy as they are on those first days of spring.” w Nikki Forrester is associate editor of Highland Outdoors, and cleared a room with her breath after researching this article. She’s been in quarantine ever since.
Dylan Jones
Hikers harvest ramps on an early spring backpacking trip.
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jammin the new Best splitter cracks of the New River Gorge By Paul Nelson
A climber eyes up the crux of Tree Route (5.9+). Photo by Nick Rothenbush
P
ure crack climbing is an acquired taste. Crack addicts seek out seemingly laser-cut splitter cracks on blank walls— completely devoid of handholds and footholds—requiring the pure endurance hand and fist jamming techniques that form the foundation of Yosemite and southwest desert climbing. When compared to face climbing, which can produce a confusing array of contrived movements over various bands of rock, pure cracking climbing is elegantly simple because its options are so few— you’re either in the crack or you’re on the ground. When I was learning to climb at the crack mecca of Indian Creek, UT back in the late 90s, I noticed that many climbers from the eastern U.S. had a hard time with this style of climbing. They would often search for the tiniest face holds outside the crack, desperate for any respite from the relentless jamming that these cracks required, typically resulting in flailing and failing when the face holds inevitably ran out. Now that I mainly climb at the New River Gorge and other southeastern sandstone crags, this approach makes
sense. If you’ve got decent footwork and crimping skills, you can finesse your way around many cracks using those miniscule edges that form so well and consistently on the Nuttall Sandstone of the gorge—edges that would just break at Indian Creek. The vast majority of the NRG’s cracks are actually face climbs or ‘crack-lite’ climbs in which you can use the cracks for sidepulls, laybacks, stems, and other types of trickery, but don’t necessarily require pure jamming techniques. However, there are some gems scattered throughout the gorge that require you to toss aside your bag of face tricks and wiggle those fingers, hands, and feet into the crack and jam. In compiling this list of the best pure cracks at the NRG up to 5.11, I eliminated routes that follow corner features (which ironically crosses the aptly-named Supercrack off the list), routes that have too many face holds, or even those routes which feature constrictions in the cracks that make the jamming too easy. Succeed on this list of NRG classics, and you’ll be ready to climb pure hand and finger cracks anywhere on earth, move on into the
intimidating 5.12 cracks of South Nuttall, and even start using your new crack skills on sport routes.
FANTASY (5.8) - ENDLESS WALL From its thrutchy, wide start, to an intimidating roof pull and the 60 feet of glorious pure handcrack that follows, you’ll be hard pressed to find a more memorable 5.8 crack anywhere. Even better, a huge caprock at the top keeps Fantasy dry in the light rain, and gets ample shade throughout the summer.
NEW YOSEMITE (5.9) JUNKYARD More aspiring crack climbers get routed on this beautiful splitter than any other. Hit up Junkyard Crag on a busy weekend and you’re sure to see muscle-bound gym bros struggling to layback and double gaston their way up the crack—anything to avoid true jamming! The crux of New Yosemite is a slight bulge with thin hand jams for most folks. You have to hang off these pure jams to plug gear, making it significantly more difficult than Fantasy. The only detraction to this route is that the splitter only makes up the bottom half—it’s just too short!
Left: Bryan Miller Middle and Right: Mike Turner
Left: Linear Encounters (5.11). Middle and right: New Yosemite (5.9).
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A climber dances his way up the impeccable face of Chasin’ the Wind (5.11b).
It may not be as aesthetic as New Yosemite, but this route throws a wider variety of jams at you than any other 5.9 at the NRG. Hands, fists, fingers, ringlocks, even full body stems—you’ll have the opportunity to pull all these techniques out of your bag of tricks on Tree Route. Lead this and you’ll definitely be ready for 5.10.
SPRINGBOARD (5.10a/b) FERN BUTTRESS Once you get into the 5.10 grade at the NRG, the possibilities open up. Fingercracks take center stage, and the line between face climbing and jamming gets blurry. It’s hard to
narrow down a strong list of contenders like Mushrooms (5.10a), First Strike (5.10a), Burning Calves (5.10b), Rod Serling Crack (5.10b), and more, but for elegant jamming and beauty, my favorite 5.10- has always been Springboard. A slightly overhanging wall, cruxy fingerlocks at the start, and an excellent position make this line not just a must-do but a must-repeat.
WHAM BAM THANKS FOR THE JAM (5.10b) BEAUTY MOUNTAIN I like to divide cracks between ‘white collar’ and ‘blue collar’ techniques. White collar climbing is elegant—you crank on dainty fingerlocks, body lightly swaying back and forth as
16 HIGHLAND OUTDOORS SPRING 2019
you float up the crack. Blue collar jamming, on the other hand, involves fists, elbows, shoulders, arms, knees, and a sort of bar-fight mentality to get up wider, steeper climbs. Wham Bam is most definitely that, with a steep wide start that builds into a hand traverse and glorious pull-around the arete into perfect handjams. You may want to tape up for this one.
INDIAN SUMMER (5.10c) SUMMERSVILLE LAKE This is probably the most perfect, consistent, continuous splitter crack in the region. Starting on steep handjams and gradually tapering down to ringlocks and then fingers, each move is slightly harder than the one before as your pump
clock starts ticking and you try to decide just how much gear to place. The only drawbacks? Indian Summer is only about 40 feet high, and only climbable when the lake level is down in the winter.
LINEAR ENCOUNTERS (5.11a) ENDLESS WALL The 5.11 grade is where trad climbing all comes together and really shines at the NRG, and climbers solid at this grade have to be well-rounded in terms of technique, gear placement, endurance, headspace, and jamming skills. For some geological quirk, however, almost all 5.11 cracks in the area require some devious face skills. Linear Encounters
Mike Turner
TREE ROUTE (5.9+) BRIDGE BUTTRESS
is a textbook ‘king line’ featuring a steep off-fingers start and blind handjams around a corner, but you’ll have to pull a few insecure 5.11 face moves to reach the anchors.
CHASIN’ THE WIND (5.11b) BEAUTY MOUNTAIN Perched high over the New River on an imposingly blank buttress and guarded by a sketchy 5.9 first pitch, this fingercrack may be the most beautiful splitter in the state. While water solution pockets create constrictions that prevent this from being a purely parallelsided splitter, the exposed climbing and position overlooking the gorge are unforgettable. Even better, these constrictions eat up wired stoppers, meaning that you don’t need a massive rack of cams to climb this classic. w Paul Nelson is an aging, crusty trad climber who can often be found jamming in the New’s lickety splitters. He’s also a musician who can often be found jamming in and around the Fayetteville area with his jazz band One for the Road.
The tall, striking splitter of Fantasy (5.8) gobbles hands and gear for a classic New River crack climb.
Courtesy Elaina Arenz
QUALITY INGREDIENTS, UNEQUALED EXPERIENCE. FAYETTEVILLE, WV 219 WEST MAPLE AVE 304.574.2200
Open Daily for Lunch & Dinner! www.PIESandPINTS.net SPRING 2019 HIGHLAND-OUTDOORS.COM
17
25 Years of the Cheat River Festival By Dylan Jones Photos by Gabe DeWitt
I
n October of 1994, Dave Bassage and Roger Harrison sat in the back of a bus after a paddling trip on the Gauley River. As the rickety bus bounced and rolled over the waves of the rugged Appalachian terrain, the two paddlers bounced and rolled through the waves of a vicious brainstorm. They were spawning a plan. Many things have been spawned in the back of a bus, from the mischievous ploys of ornery children to a pivotal piece of the civil rights movement. This particular plan, on this particular bus ride, would become the central spectacle of the environmental justice movement that would go on to restore the mighty Cheat River. Bassage and Harrison were dreaming up the Cheat River Festival, an annual event hosted by Friends of the Cheat (FOC), an environmental nonprofit whose mission is to “Restore, preserve, and promote the outstanding natural qualities of the Cheat River watershed.” This May, the Cheat River Festival will celebrate its 25th anniversary, and the silver lining is far more than symbolic. In the 25 years following the formation of FOC and the first Cheat Fest, a
staggering amount of environmental, recreational, and cultural improvements have taken place throughout the 1,422 square-mile watershed. Cheat Fest lies at the galactic center of this microcosm and has been the site of countless events of varying scale that have contributed to FOC’s rise and success.
ORIGINS It all began in the spring of 1994, when the waters of an illegally sealed underground coalmine burst through a mountainside, flooding Muddy Creek and the Cheat with deadly sludge. This toxic concoction contained acidic water and heavy metals, staining the banks bright orange. A decades-long legacy of acid mine drainage (AMD) had already rendered the Cheat a dead river, but now the outlook was even bleaker. While the Muddy Creek blowout didn’t kill the Cheat, it did serve as a catalyst for change. A tightknit group of paddlers and whitewater guides gathered on the banks of the Cheat to figure out how to accomplish the herculean task of resuscitating a dead ecosystem. Those friends became the Friends of the Cheat. Dave Bassage, a
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raft guide at the time, was one of the founding members and immediately stepped into a leadership role. “None of us had been part of an organization or formed one before or knew anything about that,” Bassage says. Just as quickly as the idea hit him on the bus, Bassage and a fledgling FOC were suddenly planning the first Cheat River Festival. “At that point I was president, and we didn’t have any staff,” Bassage recalls. One of the original FOC board members lived in the house above the modern festival site. “He said we could use his bottom land and we went down and walked around, and it was completely over grown, we couldn’t even tell for sure if it was flat. We gave it a shot and got to work clearing weeds.”
CHEATING THE SYSTEM FOC agreed to split proceeds from the inaugural event with the West Virginia Rivers Coalition, which at the time had Harrison at the helm. They roped in the West Virginia Brewing Company, which wheeled in the stage on a trailer bed. “We were making it up as we went,” Bassage says. “The stage for the first Cheat Fest was something we
just tacked together to get through it all.” FOC would need some power—star and electrical— to put on the musical aspect of the festival. In a move that was unprecedent at the time, Bassage reached out to Anker Energy, a coal company, to see if they’d provide some generators. Anker offered up some generators plus a $10,000 sponsorship donation. “We caught a lot of flak for working with a coal company, but part of our philosophy was we were looking for allies and not enemies,” Bassage says. “Anker also pledged $200,000 to do a cleanup anywhere in the Cheat as long as it was some place that would make a difference. This all came from my breakfast meeting when I was just going to ask for some generators.” Both FOC and Cheat
Fest faced skepticism early on. The river was dead because of the legacy of coal mining—why were these boaters, some from out of town, working with industry? Bassage says that skepticism, which was “coming from every direction,” presented an opportunity for FOC to
alive once again. Everything is flourishing, from macroinvertebrates to fish to several species of fishing birds. And while some may be quick to differentiate FOC from Cheat Fest, it’s easy to see the impact the festival itself has had on the river’s recovery.
“To be there on a totally dead river that has now come back to life and to know that was because of the efforts we did is priceless.” Dave Bassage
develop credibility through Cheat Fest. “We were willing to sit down with the coal company, we brought in local musicians, we brought in local food vendors,” he says. “It helped us to develop and foster those relationships. Now that it’s been 25 years, everyone in the area knows Friends of the Cheat.” The Cheat’s ecosystem is
Bassage claims that Cheat Fest kept visibility on the river as FOC evolved throughout the years. He tells the story of finding a fishing lure during FOC’s first river cleanup. “I thought someday, I’m gonna use this and fish on the Cheat,” he says. “And these days, one could. The Cheat has come back to life, it isn’t perfect, there’s still AMD to be
addressed, but now nature gets a fighting chance. Ultimately, I’ve found that nature wins if you give it a chance, and Cheat Fest has been the catalyst to make that happen.”
A RIVER OF PROMISE FOC’s inclusive philosophy ultimately resulted in the formation of the River of Promise task force, a coalition of state and federal agencies, academic institutions, environmental organizations, and industry representatives working together to address the legacy issue of AMD in the Cheat River watershed. “We said let’s all pull together to try to clean up acid mine drainage because the legacy AMD was coming from old abandoned mines and there was no liable partner out there,” Bassage says. “Rather than point fingers on who to blame, we just had a mess to clean up.”
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According to long-time FOC member and local paddling legend Jim Snyder, that industry endorsement was paramount in the formation of FOC’s partnership with the WV Department of Environmental Protection (DEP). “If you’re gonna come up with a solution, you’ve got to have everyone at the table,” Snyder says. A master craftsman of hand-hewn wooden paddles that are used around the world, Snyder can usually be found squirt boating along the Cheat Narrows. “You have to learn to be cordial to each other and work toward a common goal. The River of Promise essentially made that real.” That promise is one that was kept. It all came full circle in 2018 with construction of the state-of-the-art AMD treatment plant on Muddy Creek that’s now discharging alkaline water into the Cheat Canyon. Following the DEP’s ribbon cutting ceremony at the T&T treatment plant on Friday, May 3, a special public recognition will be held at Cheat Fest to commemorate the 25 original River of Promise signatories.
FOC’s Fantastical FUNdraiser For FOC executive director Amanda Pitzer, Cheat Fest highlights the common ground in a politically divided watershed. “I think Cheat Fest is a place and time that brings people together of varied interests and backgrounds,” Pitzer says. “It’s a story that people can tell for generations about a group of people who worked to change something that they thought was wrong and won. We throw this pebble that is Cheat Fest, and the ripples that come out are immeasurable.” The festival’s financial ripples, however, are very measurable. According to Pitzer, FOC receives an average of 40 percent of its overhead budget each year from festival proceeds. “In a sunny year, it can be up to 60 percent,” she said, highlighting how the weather for one day can have quite an impact on FOC’s annual budget. “A lot of watershed groups have one or two staff if they’re lucky, but Cheat Fest has allowed us to operate and have a staff.”
Those ripples extend into the local community as well. “There’s the economic development standpoint,” Pitzer says. “It’s the biggest thing that happens in Albright every year. We’d love to see Albright look more like Cheat Fest every weekend.” Simply put by Cheat Fest Volunteer Coordinator Ellie Bell, “Cheat Fest is everything.” It’s a concert, a boating pilgrimage, FOC’s biggest fundraiser, an educational outreach event, and a social melding pot all rolled into West Virginia’s biggest spring party. At just 25 years old, Bell is as old as Cheat Fest itself. She’s served in several roles at FOC over the course of her early environmental career, including a two-year stint as the Stream Monitoring Coordinator and three years as Cheat Fest Coordinator from 2016 – 2018. But it’s not all sunshine and good vibes. Cheat Fest is a monumental undertaking that consumes nearly twothirds of a year to plan and wrap up—all for a two-day event. According to Bell, the job starts in October and doesn’t let up until the following August. “It’s more than just planning a party,” Bell says. It’s making sure FOC is on budget and ready for the enormous amount of projects that are always happening.” Lauren Greco, an environmental scientist, was Cheat Fest Coordinator in 2015 and wrote the book—literally— on how to do the event. “We call it the bible,” says Pitzer. “It took a scientist to organize twenty-some-odd years of the festival.” This year, Greco has returned to West Virginia to reprise her role as Cheat Fest Coordinator, letting Bell narrow her focus to coordinating the festival’s 350 volunteers. Via the cultural phenomenon of Cheat Fest, Bell is a shining example of the younger generation’s ability to find happiness and stay in West Virginia. “Cheat Fest has defined my life,” she says. “My community went from tributaries to oceans; it just grew immensely. I met my boyfriend through Cheat Fest, I met my best friend through Cheat Fest, I met my career mentors through Cheat Fest.”
Stewed Mulligan, a crowd favorite, has played at every Cheat Fest.
Like Snyder and many others, Bassage has attended every festival. He views the annual pilgrimage—and FOC—among his greatest successes. “I have no children, and I think of FOC as my baby that has grown up and made me very proud,” he says. “I was just part of the team that made it all happen, but it’s still what I’m most proud of in my life. To be there on a totally dead river that has now come back to life and to know that was because of the efforts we did is priceless.” Head to Albright May 3 and 4 to celebrate 25 years of the Cheat River Festival. For info on presale tickets, head to www.cheatfest.org. Gate tickets are available for $15 on Friday and $25 on Saturday and are the best way to directly benefit FOC. See you there! w Dylan Jones is publisher and editor-in-chief of Highland Outdoors. He’s been to every Cheat Fest since 2011 and will absolutely be at this one. Swing by the Highland Outdoors tent and celebrate the Cheat River with us!
REFLECTIONS “A lot of disparate people are finding common ground. It’s been great to find out how much of an environmental community we have around here.” Jim Snyder
“The poignant moment I remembered from that first fest, the day was beautiful, and there was an apple tree next to the stage in full bloom. Joan Pitzer was playing her penny whistle, and that piercing, birdlike sound wafting over the fest site was just incredible.” Dave Bassage
“My favorite Cheat Fest moment was last year when Matt from Fletcher’s Grove was crowd surfing and it was pouring rain and there were still people having a good time.” Ellie Bell
"The year that Johnny Staats played, I got up and danced on stage during the set. Afterward, I came back around and see my staff talking, and they just had big smiles on their faces. It’s those moments that are the most rewarding to me, that I can share those feelings with really great people.” Amanda Pitzer
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big water Springtime flows reign supreme in the New River Gorge By Juniper Rose
Brace yourself... splashies are coming. Photo of Double Z rapid courtesy ACE Adventure Resort
A WALL OF WATER APPEARS OUT OF NOWHERE AND SUDDENLY TOWERS OVER A 16-FOOT-LONG RAFT FILLED WITH EIGHT FLABBERGASTED PADDLERS The raft surges into the trough at the base of the wave and then rockets skyward, threatening to fling itself backward. The wave, however, is forgiving this go around and the raft pitches forward as it crashes through to the other side, West-byGod-willing, upright. All eight unsuspecting passengers and one very suspecting guide remain on board. As fast as it began, the rapid is over and the drenched rafters— expressing a mixed bag of excitement and relief—are high-fiving their paddle blades beneath the majestic arch of the New River Gorge Bridge. Spoiler alert: This is the grand finale of a high-water spring rafting trip on the New River Gorge. If your rafting trips on the New haven’t ended with the Million Dollar Wave, you probably didn’t go rafting on a high-water spring day. This wave only comes out to play at water levels of above 17,000 cubic-feet-per-second (CFS), but when it does, it’s easy to see how it got its aquatically affluent name.
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Bow over stern on the crest of the Million Dollar Wave in the Fayette Station rapid.
Opposite and top: Courtesy Adventures on the Gorge
Aquatic face shots galore.
“The New at high water is a totally different rafting experience than at lower summer levels; it’s like rafting a completely different river,” said Bryant Baker, a river operations manager and guide at ACE Adventure Resort in Oak Hill. “My alltime favorite single feature would have to be the Million Dollar Wave on the left side of Fayette Station Rapid. It’s a 15 – 18-foot standing wave from crest to trough, and it’s hidden from view so your guests don’t see it until they’re dropping into it. Then it’s stomach-in-your-throat, boat-standing-up-on-end good.”
That New New The New River Gorge is one of the top whitewater rafting destinations on the East Coast—if not the country— with an average of 65,815 people rafting the river on commercial rafting trips each year. With visitation numbers highest during peak summer, the majority of paddlers are unaware of the rowdy characteristics the river takes on in spring. The Million Dollar Wave isn’t the only feature thing that ramps up with the water levels every spring. In fact, most rapids on the New are nearly unrecognizable at high water compared to their average summer day counterparts.
Double Z, the most challenging rapid to navigate on a typical summer day, transforms from a rocky, zig-zagging obstacle course to a wide-open ramp with a monstrous, boat-destroying hydraulic known as Barry’s Hole. But while Double Z arguably gets easier at high water (as long as you avoid Barry’s Hole), the set of successive rapids known as The Keeney’s are a whole different story. As the water rises, what was once three separate rapids becomes one massive series of holes and waves with a dangerous rock pile known as The Meat Grinder seriously upping the consequences if something goes wrong.
Alongside the class IV/V rapids on the river, high water also ups the ante of the class II rapids, turning them into boat-flipping holes and epic rollercoaster wave trains. “It’s a naturally flowing river that always runs and at every level it has at least one supreme rapid,” said Sam Kellerman, a raft guide at Adventures on the Gorge in Fayetteville. “That’s what makes the New River so great.”
The Springtime Beast of the East Beginning in North Carolina, the New’s rainy watershed funnels vast amounts of water into the constricting canyon of the New River
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found on high-volume Western rivers. The quality and size of the rapids are very similar to what you’d find on parts of the Colorado in Utah and Arizona.”
Pure Whitewater Focus Ironically, only a small percentage of the New River’s admirers experience these spring conditions. Only eight percent of the 59,987 commercial clients who rafted the New River Gorge in 2018 did so from March through May, according to figures from the West Virginia Department of Natural Resources. The number of private boaters—folks who paddle without a guide—is not recorded, according to the National Park Service. According to Roger Wilson, CEO of Adventures on the Gorge, the high water, blustery weather, and unpredictable nature of spring rafting could be why the New River sees fewer rafters in the spring. “It comes down to having the will and desire for big water,” Wilson said, noting guests who come in the spring are “More pure whitewater focused.”
Between June and September, average water levels in the New River Gorge range from 2,000 – 6,000 CFS, according to United States Geological Survey (USGS) records from 2008 – 2018. By comparison, the same 10-
year averages for March through May show average water levels ranging from 13,600 – 16,300 CFS, with flows frequently rocketing to above 24,000 CFS—or higher—throughout the spring season. Rafting companies run commercial trips each year from March through October at water levels ranging from less than 1,000 CFS to a commercial cut-off of 32,000 CFS. “You’d be hard pressed to find anything in the Eastern U.S. that can compare with high water flows in the New River Gorge,” said Baker, who in addition to guiding on the New River for 16 years has also guided commercially on the Grand Canyon and Cataract Canyon on the Colorado River. “It takes on characteristics more commonly
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During peak spring flows from March through May, boaters must also be prepared for average air temperatures ranging from 40–60 degrees Fahrenheit, compared to the balmy summer temps in the 70s during peak summer months of June through August, according to data from the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA). Water temperatures follow a similar trajectory, with the New River remaining below 65 degrees Fahrenheit until June, when temps commonly rise to bathwater-like 70s and 80s and stay there until the end of August, according to data from the USGS.
Courtesy ACE Adventure Resort
Gorge, creating a year-round whitewater mecca where the excitement and ferocity rise in tandem with each cubic foot on the water gauge. “It’s very exciting and sometimes intimidating to work on the New River during springtime when water levels are unpredictable and can change rapidly,” said Tony Morris, a guide at New and Gauley River Adventures in Fayetteville. “It’s wild because, with every six-inch change in water level, the rapids and river features change.”
Clients also have to be more flexible because the section of river that companies choose to run each day depends on the water levels, resulting in trips frequently being moved to different parts of the New or the neighboring Gauley River. “Our levels change so much and so often it becomes normal,” Wilson said. “Check the levels at five a.m., then lay the plans for the day. It’s never boring.”
The chilly weather and water call for a hardier bunch who are willing to don neoprene wetsuits and coldweather gear, said Haynes Mansfield, marketing director at ACE Adventure Resort. “Spring rafting on the New River is far less family oriented and far more adventure based,” Mansfield said. “This is not the trip for guests seeking a waterpark like, concrete-lined, slurpysipping, lazy river experience. It’s a trip for people that are intrigued by adrenaline.” Spring often draws people who have already rafted the New or Gauley rivers in the summer and fall, Mansfield said. High-water days are the perfect “step up” for people looking for a rowdier ride, said Kellerman, who frequently has guests return specifically to experience big water. “Catch the New somewhere between 18,000 CFS to 32,000 CFS and you will get big 15 to 20-foot-tall waves crashing in your face, huge fun wave trains, and non-stop adrenaline,” he said. “It’s a little cold but if you dress right, it’s totally worth it.” w Juniper Rose is editor-at-large for Highland Outdoors and a whitewater raft guide on the New and Gauley rivers who’s favorite exclusive high-water feature on the Lower New is the Million Dollar Wave.
Top and bottom: Paddlers embrace the zero-gravity feel of The Cloud Chamber in Miller's Folly rapid.
Courtesy Adventures on the Gorge
5 THI N G S YO U’L L O N L Y S E E O N A HI GH - W ATE R S PR I N G D AY Seldom Seen Rapid
Barry’s Hole
Ghost Towns
Million Dollar Wave
The Cloud Chamber
Behold the appearance of the phantom rapid
Stare down the meanest looking hole on the river
Ride the tallest runnable wave on the river
Location: Between Double Z Rapid and Harmen’s Ledges
Location: Halfway down Double Z on river left
Spot historic coal mining ruins visible through the leafless trees
Hold on tight for a nearvertical drop into a wall of frothy white water
The beta: This rapid only appears at above 24,000 CFS—dig in for a big-wave roller coaster
The beta: Don’t go anywhere near it above 14,000 CFS
Location: More places than you’d expect along the banks of the river The beta: Come in early spring before the leaves hide history from view
Location: Left side of Fayette Station Rapid The beta: Don’t miss it above 17,000 CFS
Location: Left of center at the top of Miller’s Folly Rapid The beta: When the river is above 10,500 CFS, head for the horizon line and fire it up
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Gear Ye, Gear Ye WV’S LOCAL OUTDOOR RETAIL SHOPS ARE MORE THAN JUST STORES
W
est Virginia’s status as a midAtlantic mecca for outdoor adventure is the foundation for a growing outdoor recreation economy. Scattered throughout the state are independent, locally owned gear shops that go to great lengths to stock the best gear for our terrain, employ knowledgeable staff, serve as information hubs, and support the local economy. While there are many sport-specific retailers and outfitters of various sizes, few stores do it all. West Virginia is fortunate to have two comprehensive shops that standout in terms of
their inventory and longevity, as well as their economic and cultural contributions to the state’s economy and rich outdoor adventure heritage.
Meet the Stores Water Stone Outdoors: Fayetteville You can’t mention West Virginia’s flagship outdoor town of Fayetteville without a nod to Gene and Maura Kistler. The couple moved to Fayetteville in 1991, long before it boasted the “Coolest Small Town” sign along U.S. Route 19. Back then, relations between the granola folk and the longtime locals weren’t as peachy as they are today. Like the New River Gorge Bridge itself,
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Gene and Maura covertly used their outdoor gear shop Water Stone Outdoors to bridge the gap between two disparate worlds. Nowadays, Fayetteville is a thriving example of the outdoor recreation economy’s transformational power. Gene opened Fayetteville’s original gear shop in 1994 as a third branch of Blue Ridge Outdoors, a nowdefunct Virginia-based shop that Gene owned and has since sold. Gene and Maura now co-own the shop with manager and local climbing legend Kenny Parker. “Next thing we’re setting up this gear shop and hanging out downtown, and I said, ‘This will be a great
base for subversive positive social change,’ and that was always the clandestine objective,” Gene said. The rest is a white-knuckle ride through history. Water Stone is set to celebrate its 25th anniversary this year, which will be done in typical Kistler fashion with a big blowout where everyone and anyone is welcome. Pathfinder of West Virginia: Morgantown West Virginia’s thirdlargest city is home to the state’s largest independent outdoor store. Located in the Monongahela Building in the heart of downtown Morgantown, Pathfinder is the most comprehensive gear shop around. From
Dylan Jones
By Dylan Jones
skateboarding to skiing, climbing to camping, and biking to paddling, Pathfinder backs up its tagline as “West Virginia’s Adventure Sports Outfitter.” Pathfinder’s modus operandi was built upon selling gear that the owners and employees actually used themselves. Originally opened on Willey Street by Bruce Summers and his late partner Mia Sieminski in 1973, Pathfinder has been outfitting West Virginia’s adventurers for 46 years. The store moved to its current location in 1993, where it has remained one of Morgantown’s bedrock businesses. Summers has since retired from an active role but still owns the store. He passed the reins to general manager Gabe Fitzwater, who’s been making the store thrive since 1992. “Longevity in this business is not always a thing, but you can have a career doing this,” Fitzwater said. “We try some things here and there, and we’re evolving and changing as we need to stay viable in today’s retail world.”
More Than A Store A store is a store, except for when it’s much more. Local outdoor shops provide a far greater range of services than many customers realize. From expert advice and insider info to support for community events, these stores are the venerable hubs of their local outdoor scenes.
Courtesy Water Stone
“First and foremost we’re a gear provider, but we’re also here to provide information on where to go, whether it’s a ski resort, hiking trails, backpacking, rivers to paddle; we’re leading people the right way,” Fitzwater said. Pathfinder organizes weekly bike rides and paddling sessions throughout the year, including kayak rolling classes at the WVU Rec Center. “We try to provide an open forum where everyone is welcome. We’re making it inclusive, not exclusive.” Fitzwater rattled off Pathfinder’s long list of sponsorships throughout the years, including the Banff Outdoor Film Festival, the Cheat River Festival, Dirt Rag Dirt Fest WV, and a slew of events and trips done in partnership with Adventure WV.
You won’t find this on Amazon.
Down at Water Stone, the business side of things is only a minor component of the store’s raison d’etre. “We’re an information hub, which is what every gear shop should be,” Parker said. “Maura and I always laugh about how we’re actually shitty retailers, but we do really well with our community. If we quit doing all the public service, community, and environmental activism, maybe we’d actually make some money.” Water Stone has had its chalkcovered hand in just about every aspect of Fayetteville over the decades, from the 10-year run of the legendary New River Rendezvous climbing festival to financial support for local businesses and events. “When I look at us as a vehicle for subversive positive local change, we have donated to everything possible in this community. I can’t even come close to quantifying the amount of money and employee hours we’ve donated to [climbing stewardship],” Parker said.
Online versus In Line It’s no secret that shopping online is convenient but going to your local shop and waiting in line carries a multitude of benefits beyond the sale. For starters, Fitzwater wants people to realize that the internet isn’t the defacto bargain basement. According to Fitzwater, Pathfinder’s prices are often on par with
or cheaper than the online marketplace. “The worst thing I hear people say is that they’re glad to shop local even though they’re spending more money,” he says. “And I say, well that’s just not true. Good deals can be had because we’re in the same boat as the online retailers. We’re all doing the same cycle.” The other benefit of your brickand-mortar gear shop is the ability to touch and visually inspect gear, try on shoes and apparel, and bring items in for service. “A good deal isn’t always a good deal,” says Fitzwater, who claims that the customer getting the wrong gear is one of the worst things that can happen for a gear manufacturer. Pathfinder employs a diverse staff of techs and mechanics, many of whom have crossover skills for different sports. “Probably bigger than anything, especially with bicycles, is the ability to service it. If you buy from us, we’re able to service what we sell.” If your gear’s broke, Fitzwater says they can likely fix it without leaving you broke. Conversely, Maura admits the internet has been able to undercut Water Stone when it comes to clearance prices for items like apparel and technical clothing. “Although I feel like the shop local thing is getting stronger, we can’t sell a raincoat to save our lives anymore,” she said.
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vibrant economy with interesting stores and vitality,” Maura said. “It’s the old model of a little town with shops, it creates that wonderful engagement where you’re out connecting with and being part of a vibrant town. The last thing we need is to be holed up on our screens more.” The American Independent Business Alliance states that a dollar spent at a local merchant turns into $2 - $3.5 recirculating in the local economy compared to just one dollar spent at a chain-owned business.
But specialty items like rock climbing shoes are things that, well, simply suck to buy online. Climbing shoes need a specific fit to perform properly, companies are constantly changing their designs, and feet come in a variety of strange shapes. Try to guess your size and style online, and you’re bound to get hosed.
products before buying online at a lower price. “That’s as low bar as it gets,” said Parker. “If people say they can get it cheaper, I’ll compromise. If people don’t support local shops, they’re going to lose the option to come into the store and use that service.”
Maura claims Water Stone features arguably the largest climbing shoe selection east of Mississippi. There’s a small climbing wall on which to test the shoes, and the staff, most of whom are climbers, are well-versed in each shoe—an intentional design that has helped keep Water Stone afloat over the years. “I decided that was one category in particular where we were going to sink and invest money in inventory and carry a lot of different styles,” Parker said. “The fact you’re getting to try all these different shoes and find the one that works for you, that’s invaluable. If people don’t recognize that’s an add-on service, they’re missing the point.”
Captain Planet explained the responsibility of eco-consciousness to children in the early ‘90s, but they never benefitted from the lessons of a Captain Retail to reinforce the responsibility of conscious consumerism. Since the days of Captain Planet’s spandex-clad take down of greasy oil barons, the internet has risen as the dominant digital disputant of the hypothetical Captain Retail. If he was a cartoon on the air today, he’d teach us about the local multiplier effect, tax revenue, and job creation whilst punching Amazon Prime minions square in the jaw.
Parker’s primary pet peeve is a phenomenon called showrooming—the practice of visiting a store to try on
The Power is Yours
Locally spending your hard-earned dollars supports and creates local jobs, shores up the local tax base, and circulates that wealth within the local economy. “Buying locally provides a
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If you’re still wondering why you should consider shopping locally, leave it to Gene Kistler for the blunt truth: “So we can make money and stay alive and have a good time.” Ultimately, the glory of unfettered capitalism puts the power of choice in your hands—and wallet. But if you can make conscious decisions that result in staying alive and having a good time, we all win. As Gene says, “If everyone is having a good time, we’re having a good time, too.” And at the end of the day, aren’t the outdoors all about having a good time? w Dylan Jones has been a longtime customer at both Water Stone Outdoors and Pathfinder and did not receive any compensation from either business for this article. But, if free stuff magically appeared on his door step, he’d totally accept it.
Courtesy Water Stone
Maura and Gene Kistler in front of the largest climbing shoe collection east of the Mississippi.
Fitzwater cites taxes to explain how a dollar spent at Pathfinder is a dollar that bolsters Morgantown’s economy. Pathfinder’s revenue supports local jobs and pays wages employees use to buy locally at other stores. “If you buy online, zero dollars go to the local community, but in a case like ours, 100 percent stays here,” he said. “When people come and ask us for donations, or sponsorships, if we don’t have that revenue, we can’t support, sponsor, or even employ people. We have less employees, less support of the community, it’s a slow erosion.”
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Fishing Smoke Hole Canyon
By Eric Lee
Pregnant with heavy waters from snowmelt and rain, spring and early summer are the prime seasons to float the 15 spectacular river miles from Big Bend Campground to Petersburg. Self-sufficient paddlers and anglers can manage their own boats and shuttles, while ambitious folks can arrange a trip with Eagle’s Nest Outfitters in Petersburg. The Smoke Hole isn’t necessarily a high consequence river— class II and III rapids abound through the canyon—but its remote nature makes it wise to do some recon and chat with someone that knows the river. Eagle’s Nest has detailed maps and
their experienced guides can provide expert advice on how to manage the river if you’re a decent paddler. Last May, we watched the Franklin gauge on the Potomac for a water level fitting for canoes. When the water rose to the occasion, so did we. There were two canoes and three generations of the Lee family on this trip—my father, myself, and my son. We set our shuttles, strapped our boats to the trailer, and drove the 26-mile shuttle from Petersburg to Big Bend Campground in under an hour. Before long we were geared up, strapped down, and underway. Soon after we dipped our paddle blades in the Potomac’s clear waters, we encountered the first rapid. After successful navigation, we found ourselves holed up in ‘honey holes’ teeming with fish. “One strike, two, set the hook,” my father repeated. All at once we were catching fish one after another. My old man continued his master angler advice: “Let’s steer the boats ashore; we need plenty of time to give ‘em all a sore lip.” If this first hole was any sign, the fishing throughout our Smoke Hole trip was going to be superb. We continued down the river, zipping
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through shallow riffles and moseying through calm pools. We checked the map provided by Eagle’s Nest and noted the important landmarks: Zimmer’s Rock, Rock Water Fall, Headcork Cave. The Nature Conservancy has labeled the Smoke Hole Canyon “one of the most biologically rich places in the east,” and the scenery didn’t disappoint. By early evening we made it to Blue Rock, an inconic 1000-foot fin of Tonoloway Limestone that soars triumphantly above the Potomac. It reminded us of the Tuscarara river knobs of Seneca and Nelson rocks found along the North Fork of the South Branch of the Potomac to the west along North Fork Mountain. Like many adventurers before us, we decided to camp below nature’s towering masterpiece. We set up camp and threw a pork loin on the fire. With daylight to spare, it was time to cast our lines once more. It was in this magic hole below Blue Rock where my son caught the most fish he’s ever reeled in in one setting. Rock bass by the bank, smallmouth, even a trout. The arch of his smile bent toward happiness like I’d never seen before. He was proud. Following a peaceful night under the
Eric Lee
T
he South Branch of the Potomac River runs through some of the most remote and rugged terrain east of the Mississippi. In eastern West Virginia, this scenic river flows through the especially rugged and unique Smoke Hole Canyon, where the environment is pristine and the people are few. While the Smoke Hole Canyon is a destination for paddlers and climbers seeking adventurous lines on water and rock, the river is also a highly productive fishery. Most folks wouldn’t guess it, but the Potomac boasts more combined state record trout, smallmouth bass, and catfish than any other waterway in the Mountain State.
(681) 435 9025 | 438 William Ave, Suite #3 | Davis, WV | 26260-0204
Above: Camping below Blue Rock. Left: Fishing the honey holes of the South Branch of the Potomac River.
Eric Lee
stars, we woke to sound of the Potomac passing by. The smell of the morning dew and the warmth of the sun peering over Blue Rock gave provided renewed energy. We slipped off into the river; the old man pulled off onto the bank before the first bend. His reasoning was his raison d’etre: he wanted to snag a few extra fish. His remark: “This hole is polluted with trout.” We made our way along the river and began noticing other features identified on the map—the broken dam, the swift rapids of Big Daddy and Big Mama, and the various tree stumps and rocks to avoid. We continued catching fish, but grew anxious about our time—we knew the trip was coming to a close. Paddle, paddle, paddle. Some parts of the river were slow as molasses, others were too fast for comfort. After crossing under the bridge in Petersburg, we see a bald eagle in its outpost among the tree tops.
It’s a majestic creature; a symbol of the freedom was experience in Smoke Hole; a flagship guiding us to the take out. The end came much too soon, and the next trip can’t come soon enough. There are few moments in life where we connect with generations of family and eons of nature. Fishing is a favorite past time in the Lee family, and Smoke Hole Canyon will always make our hearts beat as one. If you want a simultaneously calming and adventurous experience, then get your fishing license, grab a life jacket and a paddle, and make those timeless memories on the South Branch Potomac River in Smoke Hole Canyon. w
Alix Lilly D.C. Call/ Text/ Email (304) 668-1198 nurturechiropracticwv@gmail.com
417 William Ave Davis, W.V.
Eric Lee founded Highland Outdoors, and remains a freelance writer. He and his wife Kayley live in Cheat Lake with their three children, Emma, Jack, and Brock—a new arrival from December. SPRING 2019 HIGHLAND-OUTDOORS.COM
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P RO F I L E “Why here? I don’t know, I just fell in love with the damn place. You can take a canoe and put on the Cheat and feel like you’re a million miles away.” How did you end up in West Virginia? I grew up outside of Erie, Pennsylvania. I got turned onto a stream monitoring program at Allegheny College when I was in High School. I got to do my first benthic survey and fell in love with creeks and rivers. My coming to WV story starts in Ohio, when I was traveling with my best friend Jen before I took a job in Virginia. We went to a festival and met [Jake Pitzer], and I spent the next year driving from southwest Virginia to Bruceton. I got to see the state through all four seasons, and I just fell in love with the place.
How did you get introduced to FOC?
By Dylan Jones If you’re an environmentalist who has spent any time in West Virginia in the last 25 years, you’ve likely heard of Friends of the Cheat—unless you’re a hellgrammite living under a rock, in which case you’ve likely benefited from FOC’s successful restoration of the Cheat River. The current face of FOC features the cheerful smile of executive director Amanda Pitzer. Named one of our state’s influential women by Boss Babes WV, Pitzer has had a profound impact throughout her tenure at FOC. She took the reins at just 29 years of age following FOC executive director Keith Pitzer’s death in December of 2009. While many assume Amanda is Keith’s daughter, she married into the Pitzer family via Keith and wife Joan’s son Jake. Now divorced, Amanda held on to the Pitzer name in a showing of unity and commitment to the Pitzer family, FOC, and ultimately, to the Cheat River itself. This May, the Cheat River Festival—FOC’s flagship fundraising extravaganza—turns 25, and I sat down with Pitzer to take a deep dive into the Cheat.
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How did you become executive director? I came back from a trip in late 2009, and that winter, Keith passed away from cancer. Friends of the Cheat was struggling, and the board moved forward on a serious nationwide search. They had 67 applicants and believe it or not, they fricken’ hired me. I had a lot of knowledge and passion, but I didn’t have proven management experience. They really put a lot of faith in my ability. I was only 29 when I got hired. I jumped in, we had only three staff including me at the time and a VISTA, the first year was just trying to bring the organization back on track. The part of the story that isn’t sexy but real is that I am not married. It doesn’t bother me to acknowledge that I’m divorced, the influence of Keith on my life hasn’t changed because of that. But I’m here and I’m committed to the river. My commitment to Friends of the Cheat wouldn’t change. That’s how I got the Pitzer name—they think I’m Keith’s daughter, which is flattering, but I’m not a native. I got here as fast as I could, and I love it here. The name helps me.
Joel Wolpert
AMANDA PITZER
I got to know [Keith Pitzer], who was the executive director at the time of Friends of the Cheat. I learned about acid mine drainage, I got to go my first Cheat Fest in 2005, and I volunteered every year after that. Through FOC, I got a job at Friends of Deckers Creek to run their summer camp program. I worked there for three years, where we worked to build their award-winning, nationally recognized environmental education program. That was a really great time, I met so many people from different watershed groups to government agencies, what a great way to get to know West Virginia than by getting to work with the people who really care and are committed to doing great things?
What were those early days like? When I started out, I had a lot of looking through files literally trying to piece together the things Keith was working on before he died. Now I was in a whole new role, I had to really put myself out there and intentionally establish my authority. When I started, I didn’t have a lot of confidence, but I was bold and passionate. I was probably going to three to four meetings in the evening every week on top of working five days a week. I was running at a pace that wasn’t sustainable. I think it was my fourth year that I really took a breath, that’s when I started to doubt myself. What am I doing? Are these the right decisions? That also happened to be when my marriage was ultimately ending. When you have a small staff and someone is struggling, everyone feels it. In hindsight, it’s like, yeah, we did it! That goes to the testament of the relationships that the people before me really built. That’s what this work is all about—relationship building.
You were named on the Boss Babes WV list, what are your thoughts on being a leader?
Gabe DeWitt
I have to keep the curtain pulled. I don’t want you to see that I am vulnerable. That really, if you pushed me a little bit, I might lose my shit. I think women need to hear that, because people don’t know that I’m insecure, that I don’t have confidence all the time, and that’s OK. It’s not a weakness. It helps me empathize with people. It makes me
down to earth, it makes me real. I have great people that support me, I couldn’t be the executive director of Friends of the Cheat without my staff and our volunteers.
“I have to keep the curtain pulled. I don’t want you to see that I am vulnerable. I think women need to hear that, because people don’t know that I don’t have confidence all the time, and that’s OK. It’s not a weakness. It helps me empathize with people.” What was the Cheat River like when you took over? In 2010, the Cheat mainstem itself was on an upswing. When I started, Muddy Creek was still contributing [pollution] to the Cheat Canyon, but we’d been getting reports of more eagles and osprey getting sighted, and people were reliably catching fish in the canyon. By 2012, the pH of the Cheat mainstem was meeting water quality standards for pH, and the state was taking steps to delist the Cheat from the list of impaired water. In terms of the Clean Water Act, that’s a victory.
Why the Cheat? What’s the big draw for you? I see the Cheat as the underdog. It’s got all the things going for it, except for pyrite in the soils. It’s got beautiful scenic mountains, fresh water trout streams, beautiful farm land, as well as quaint small towns. I believe that Preston County is barely scratching the surface of our potential. I think that this is something people say about West Virginia often, and it sounds cliché, but we can make a big difference here; we really can. Why here? I don’t know, I just fell in love with the damn place. You can take a canoe and put on the Cheat and float by Seven Islands and feel like you’re a million miles away.
What do you see for the future of FOC? More of an offense, more programming around the river and recreation activities. We’ll be breaking ground on the rail-trfail which is going to be a turning point for this area. I also see us taking on the removal of the lowhead dam at the powerplant in Albright. It might take another 25 years, but that’s full restoration. We’ve got the water quality back; let’s restore the habitat and make the Cheat River one of the longest paddleable rivers on the east coast. We hope to do more structured environmental education. That’s how you impart change is by changing the minds of tomorrow. As long as we have continued support from donors, the next 25 years will be better than the first 25. w This interview was edited for length and clarity.
It’s remarkable that not only is the Cheat maintaining neutral pH, but Muddy Creek is actually adding alkalinity to the Cheat. 25 years ago, I don’t think anyone would have thought that Muddy Creek would come back. Fish need clean water 100 percent of the time, not 99 percent of the time. Without bugs and fish, that’s not restoration. The public doesn’t care if the pH is 7.2, they care if you can flip over a rock and find a hellgrammite or throw a line in and catch a fish. That’s restoration. SPRING 2019 HIGHLAND-OUTDOORS.COM
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EV E N T S CA L E N DA R
Come celebrate climbing, tacos, and margaritas at The Gendarme to kick off the rock climbing season. https://www.facebook.com/SenecaRocks-Climbing-School-245095270600/
Fire and Ice Festival
(Not) Work Week 2019
Head to Adventures on the Gorge in Fayetteville to celebrate the opening weekend of rafting season.
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Head to Mason-Dixon Historical Park for this modern take on traditional Appalachian fare. https://www.tourmorgantown.com/ events/26th-annual-ramp-dinner/
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https://www.newriverclimbing. net/not-work-week-2019.html
Benefit the New River Alliance of Climbers and view the region’s best outdoor adventure films in downtown Fayetteville.
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Blackwater Classic
Come test your mettle over Tucker County’s tough-as-nails terrain. www.wvmba.com/ridewv/
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https://runsignup.com/Race/WV/ Davis/CanaanValleyHalfMarathon10k
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Snowshoe Bike Park Opening Day
Extinguish that berming desire for big air at opening day. https://www.snowshoemtn.com/ things-to-do/events/snowshoebike-park-opening-day
Wanderlust Festival
Come discover your inner yogi at this transformational event at Snowshoe Mountain Resort. You’ll wanna namaste forever. https://wanderlust.com/
Meet the Cheat
Join Friends of the Cheat in St. George for this mild, familyfriendly float on the Upper Cheat River Water Trail. https://www.cheat.org/events/
Brewgrass Reunion
Celebrate the cultures of bluegrass and local craft brews on the rim of the New River Gorge. https://adventuresonthegorge.com/ calendar/events/brewgrass-reunion-2019/
www.newriverclimbing.net/film-festival.html
Canaan Valley Half Marathon & 10K
Gather in beautiful Canaan Valley for this scenic inaugural half marathon and 10K race.
Join the New River Alliance of Climbers for a few days or all of this trail (not) work week. Is it work, or is it not? You decide!
Celebrate National Trails Day with this mostly downhill half marathon. http://www.montrails.org/deckerscreek-trail-half-marathon-trail-mix/
Appalachian Outdoor Film Festival
26th Annual Ramp Dinner
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Deckers Creek Trail Half Marathon
Head to Franklin in the fishing capital of Pendleton County to reel in the good times at this festival celebrating our beloved state fish.
https://coopersrock.org/events/
https://adventuresonthegorge.com/ calendar/events/fire-and-ice-festival-2019/
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WV Trout Fest
Seneca Rocks Cinco de Mayo
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Ditch the pavement and hit the dirt for this challenging mountain footrace.
https://www.cheat.org/events/
http://pendletoncountywv.com
Coopers Rock 50K & Half Marathon Trail Race
Join Friends of the Cheat in Rowlesburg for this mild, family-friendly float on the Upper Cheat River Water Trail.
http://cheatfest.org/
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https://www.facebook.com/Big-BearLake-Trail-Center-WV-109799575715058/
Meet the Cheat
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Prepare for mud, sweat, and tears of joy at this campout celebrating spring at the Big Bear Trail Center.
Join Friends of the Cheat in Albright for the 25th-annual Cheat Fest, featuring a full day of music and river lovin’ fun.
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Big Bear Season Opener Campout
Cheat River Festival
14 – 16
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12 – 14
www.chestnutmtnproductions.com/banff -film-festival/west-virginia/morgantown/
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Check out some of the best outdoor films in the world in downtown Morgantown.
11 – 18
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Banff Mountain Film Festival
JUNE
MAY 3–4
APRIL
Canaan MTB Festival
Rally in the Valley for a slew of two-wheeled events including group rides, skills clinics, and trail work. https://www.facebook.com/CanaanMTB-Festival-842640482484583/
ADD YOUR EVENT Send us an email with details about your event, where it is, and when to: info@highland-outdoors.com
G A L L E RY
Night time in a country side field strewn with boulders and sink holes in Randolph County, West Virginia, shows a section of Earth giving way to a deep pool of water; its mirror-like surface painted with stars reflected from the boundless cosmos above. Photograph and Caption by Jesse Thornton. Check out more of his work: www.reflectioninapool.com
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